THE OLD OYSTER FACTORY

BY BARRY KAUFMAN • PHOTOS BY ROB KAUFMAN

When it comes to change, there are two schools of thought.

The first perspective is, “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” This is the philosophy that values consistency over progress, recognizing that what came before is worth preserving and must be protected.

The second perspective is, “If you’re not moving forward, you’re dying.” Those who follow this train of thought fear stagnation over everything else, always aiming for the prizes of progress.

When you’re dealing with an icon as beloved as The Old Oyster Factory, you have to honor both schools of thought. On the one hand, this is a restaurant that has spent decades defining Hilton Head Island’s cuisine, with every square inch representing a treasured memory for some patron. On the other hand, even icons have room for improvement.

“In my opinion, the old back deck was one of the most wasted pieces of real estate on the island,” said General Manager Andy Love.

Not so much any more, where the deck which once served more or less as a holding area for those awaiting a table has been brilliantly transformed into one of the most breathtaking outdoor dining venues on the island. Amid the Broad Creek scenery that has made the restaurant such a treasure, the deck has expanded to full service, with a wide wraparound bar at its core anchoring pure happy hour bliss.

And while it’s the most visible change to have swept The Old Oyster Factory as part of its massive renovation this past spring, its certainly not the only one.

“COVID kind of made us reinvent ourselves,” said Love. “It was really an opportunity to redo our entire way of thinking.”

With CRAB Group taking ownership of the venerable restaurant in September of 2019, the time was ripe for a refresh. The décor was essentially stripped down to the studs, with tables and chairs that had been in place since the restaurant’s late ’80s debut being 86'd for newer furnishings. With the help of CSH Designs the old

traditional bar was converted into a world class oyster bar and has been thoroughly modernized and rebuilt, with the marble slab of the bar top complementing finishes of hardwood and tile in a completely redesigned space.

“That view has always been a huge part of the appeal,” said Love. “With the bar and the changes in the dining room, we’re able to really maximize that view.”

It wasn’t just a matter of changing a few things around and updating. As part of the redesign, The Old Oyster Factory has added an entirely new aspect to the dining experience: an oyster bar. Considering oysters are their middle name, it’s a natural fit.

“We used to carry four varieties of oysters, now we’re up to eight,” said Love. They run the gamut from the local flavors supplied by the Mitchell family, as they have been for years, to more exotic types from Prince Edward Sound to the west coast.

You don’t even need to make an evening of it if you want to try the oyster bar – it’s part of another new tradition established during this reawakening: lunch. Alongside it, you’ll find sandwiches, salads and select entre´es for your midday indulgence, each of which is prepared with the restaurant's new and improved approach to seafood.

“From the ground up, it’s a whole new menu,” said Love. “We have completely revamped the whole thing. More modern, focused on local fresh ingredients... we’re able to make it a lot more seasonal.”

Seasonal flavors and local ingredients form the foundation of a completely new experience, one that honors the legacy of The Old Oyster Factory while expanding on it in new and exciting ways. With menus printed up daily to reflect this modern approach, you’ll find items Love presented with a Lowcountry twist. At dinner, you might try oysters Rockefeller with local collards and pimiento cheese. At lunch, possibly a Lowcountry cheesesteak with peppadew peppers. And there’s never a bad time of day to try the SeaCuterie Board, boasting smoked shrimp, tuna poke, ceviche, smoked salmon and crab salad.

Another new addition is the fabulous Sunday Brunch served from 11 a.m. until 2 p.m.

As much as has been changed, modernized and updated during the last few months at The Old Oyster Factory, the things that made it truly iconic have remained.

“I think what’s always made the legacy here is the people,” said Love. “I have line cooks and sous chefs that have been here 20 years, managers who have been here forever. That’s unheard of in food and beverage.”

From the décor to the menu to the expanded outdoor dining experience, walking into The Old Oyster Factory today is like walking into it for the first time. It’s not progress for the sake of progress. It’s not fixing what isn’t broken. It’s building on a legacy and creating something entirely new.

THE OLD OYSTER FACTORY 101 Marshland Rd. (843) 681-6040 www.oldoysterfactory.com

BROTHER SHUCKER’S BAR & GRILL Located at 7D Greenwood Drive, just off Sea Pines Circle. Hilton Head’s newest contemporary Raw Bar featuring fresh seafood including raw oysters, shrimp, clams and more. Tasty appetizers, salads, soups, burgers (beef and bison) and wings are also available. Dine inside in the newly remodeled dining room or outside on the comfortable deck. Happy hour available from 4 until 6 p.m. and full menu is served until midnight. Offering nightly live entertainment. Call (843) 785-7000 or check us out on Facebook.

CAPTAIN JOHN’S GALLEY AT THE SALTY DOG CAFE Located at South Beach Marina in Sea Pines. Enjoy seafood right out of the ocean and onto your plate while overlooking beautiful Braddock’s Cove. The legendary captain serves up fresh seafood, steaks, pasta and more in this fun, nautical atmosphere. Early bird dining special, 10% off from 5 until 6:30 p.m. Full bar and kid’s menu available. Call (843) 671-CAFE (2233) for seasonal hours.

CAROLINA CRAB COMPANY Located in Palmetto Bay Marina. Home of “The” Carolina Crab Cake, “C3” (nicknamed locally) has become the spot to anchor since its inception in 2014. If it’s seafood you crave, C3 is revered for its Steaming boils, crispy fried baskets, variety of dinner entrees and ever-changing oyster selection. It is “The” Carolina Crab Cake, however, that will have you planning your second visit immediately following your first bite. Land-lovers fear not, hand cut steaks, our mouthwatering burger, and all other non-seafood creations are all served with this same promise; If it’s on the menu we guarantee you it is done right. C3 offers lunch, dinner, happy hour, dine in, take out, online ordering, and curbside pickup, we even deliver!!!... well not our food, but on everything promised above. A member of The Coastal Restaurants and Bars family of restaurants since 2014. Call (843) 842-2016 or visit carolinacrabco.com. @carolinacrabco, #cuatc3.

CATCH 22 FRESH SEAFOOD & GRILL Located at 37 New Orleans Road in Orleans Plaza. We cut our USDA Prime Beef and fillet our fresh Catch of the Day in house. Friendly atmosphere and delicious menu choices such as Handmade Ravioli with Scallops, the Three Onion Encrusted Pork Chop, The Char braised Short Rib and the Seafood Sampler make us a favorite with the locals and visitors alike. Dinner from 5 pm, Monday –Saturday. Early Dining 5 - 6 p.m. Visit Catch22hhi.com for Seasonal Promotions, Bar Seating Happy Hour Specials, Wine & Dine Specials, & Reservations or call (843) 785-6261. Dine In or Take Out. Items & Pricing are subject to change.

CHARLIE’S L’ETOILE VERTE Located at 8 New Orleans Rd., just off Hwy. 278. The only restaurant on the Island that writes its entire menu daily based (continued on page 18)

BY BARRY KAUFMAN • PHOTOS BY ROB KAUFMAN

In the restaurant business, you have to pay your dues. Washing dishes, cutting veggies, taking out garbage, scrubbing bathrooms… these are the wages of success. There are no shortcuts.

To look at the Neeley family is to see the proof of that. Hard work, paying dues and never taking shortcuts pay off. It’s how this one family has amassed a portfolio of restaurants across the Southeast, including Plantation Café & Deli’s three locations, Callahan’s and Savannah’s Original Pancake House.

Before he opened his first island restaurant, Vic Neeley had already paid 27 years’ worth of dues working his way up through the ranks at Waffle House. By the time he stepped away from the company, he was a vice president. Having a dad in the boardroom didn’t stop Vic’s son Darrell from paying dues; he started out washing dishes just like everyone else.

When Vic ventured out from Waffle House on his own and Darrell finally got his shot at running the kitchen at Callahan’s, it was nothing that was given. Make no mistake, it was earned. That’s not to say it didn’t have its perks.

“I was 19, living in Winston-Salem, and my dad said, ‘Want to go live by the beach and run a kitchen?’ I mean, who’s going to say no?” said Darrell. “I was able to have a lot of freedom, but it was also pretty daunting because I had a lot of responsibility at that age. I didn’t go to college. I went to the school of Callahan’s.”

He would pay his dues in the kitchen at Callahan’s before taking the reins at the iconic restaurant the family had purchased, Plantation Café & Deli.

Perhaps the most interesting aspect of the Plantation Café & Deli empire is the way each restaurant represents subtle variations on a theme. That theme, of course, is good oldfashioned Southern style comfort food. Warm, buttery stacks of fluffy pancakes. Tender yet crispy bacon that seems to melt in the mouth. Sizzling sausage, fresh from the skillet and redolent with subtle spices.

And we haven’t even gotten to the lunch menu yet, with its mouth-watering soups, salads and sandwiches that tantalize with their inspired spins on deli classics. It’s fare that simply tastes

like home, and it’s a common thread that runs through three locations that each stand apart.

The new Bluffton location, set smack-dab in the middle of the red-hot Buckwalter Place development, echoes the sense of Lowcountry sophistication sweeping the mainland. “They call it the cottage look,” said Vic. “We were looking for nice, casual, comfortable… we serve comfort food.”

The north end location, meanwhile, carries the wall of glass found in every one of Port Royal Plaza’s storefronts, adding opportunities for people watching to the exquisitely comfortable atmosphere.

And then, of course, there is the original south end location, which has anchored the island’s breakfast scene since 1974. “It was originally a gas station,” said Darrell. “In fact, my walk-in cooler was the one that was used in the gas station – it still has the doors.”

It’s this flagship location that will soon see a dramatic facelift, although it has been by Darrell’s admission a long time coming. A first attempt at renovation was stalled when construction began on the new Courtyard Marriott nearby. “They said they were going to give us plenty of notice when the hotel was coming,” said Darrell, adding with a laugh, “On January 4, 2019 they came knocking on the door saying, ‘We’re starting construction tomorrow.’”

Delayed twice more, first by construction of the new Bluffton location and then by COVID, work will begin soon on refreshing the South End. And it couldn’t come at a better time.

“That whole area is poised for a couple of serious summers coming up,” said Darrell. “Especially with that park. It’s a great thing the town did.”

Once it’s completed, the south end location will share more than a passing resemblance to its mainland sister. “We’re taking the Bluffton location as our standard,” said Darrell. “We’re trying to standardize the cafés to where, in theory, if someone reached out about franchising or we wanted to put one in Charleston or Pooler, we could. I think there’s tons of room for growth.”

If there is growth coming for the Plantation Café & Deli brand, there are plenty of Neeleys to carry it forward. Darrell’s brother William joined the team a few years back and has been running the show on the north end.

“It’s fun working with family because you can really get angry with each other and act like boneheads,” said Darrell with a laugh. “Having my brother involved… he’s been in the restaurant business throughout his life.”

Together, the brothers prepare to carry the restaurant empire into the future once Vic retires. Or at least gets as close to the concept of “retirement” as he can.

“He’s never going to retire. He’ll be coming in here five days a week,” said Darrell.

But that’s just a part of the dues the Neeley patriarch has paid. For decades, climbing the ranks at Waffle House was a 24/7 occupation, and family time was sometimes the unfortunate sacrifice. By paying those dues, however, he has allowed his sons a better life. “I love the hours, being able to go into work, put in an honest day and still be able to sit with my family at the dinner table,” said Darrell. “I want to just make sure my brother and myself can spend time with our families. Which a lot of people in our industry are robbed of.”

And of course, keep the empire growing for the next generation. “Right now my son isn’t old enough to talk,” said Darrell. “But when he can, he’s going to learn how to wash dishes.”

PLANTATION CAFÉ & DELI 81 Pope Avenue in Heritage Plaza, (843) 785-9020 North Island at Port Royal Plaza, (843) 342-4472 20 Discovery Drive in Bluffton, (843) 815-5550 plantationcafeanddeli.com

on the freshest local seafood available. Our epicurean dinner menu offers an array of Fresh Fish, Rack of Lamb, Filet Mignon and many other delights. Our wine list, The Best of Wine Spectator “Award of Excellence”, offering half off all bottles of wine under $100 on Monday nights. Serving dinner Monday thru Saturday from 5 p.m. and lunch Monday thru Friday from 11:30 a.m. until 2 p.m. For reservations call (843) 785-9277 visit us online at www.charliesgreenstar.com.

CHOW DADDY’S Two locations - 14B Executive Park Road, just off Pope Avenue and Belfair Towne Village in Bluffton. One of the areas newest and most creative restaurants offers a healthy alternative using local and organic ingredients whenever possible. Menu items include amazing Pork Nachos on house-made potato chips, Kale and Quinoa Salad, Tuna Poke Bowl, Fried Chicken Tacos, Spicy Shrimp Tacos, Chicken Verde, and incredible Burgers ground in house daily. Full bar, extensive wine selection and great cocktails. Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner from 11:30 a.m. until 10 p.m. Outdoor seating and ping pong available on our terraces. For reservations call (843) 842CHOW (2469) or (843) 757-CHOW (2469) or online at www.chowdaddys.com.

CQ’S RESTAURANT Tucked under the oaks in Harbour Town, CQ’s signature dishes embody Executive Chef Broderick Weaver’s passion for the best produce and cuisine from the Lowcountry bounty. Guests can gather at the bar to enjoy great cocktails. The exceptional wine list includes a variety of wines selected specifically with the menu in mind. Offering Take-out and Curbside Service, outdoor seating available. Open nightly 5 to 9 p.m. Reservations accepted. Call (843) 671-2779 or visit CQsRestaurant.com for complete menus or to make reservations.

CRANE’S TAVERN STEAKHOUSE & SEAFOOD Located at 26 New Orleans Rd. A family tradition of excellence in quality and value for over 100 years. The destination for steak and seafood lovers offering all USDA Prime Grade beef, including our Famous Prime Rib. Fresh selection of seafood, pastas, soups and salads as well as tantalizing desserts. Wine Spectator “Award of Excellence” for a wine list comprised of over 500 selections. AAA Three diamond award. Bar menu available at bar only. Open daily from 5 until 10 p.m. Reservations suggested. Call (843) 341-2333.

THE CRAZY CRAB Two beautiful waterfront locations - South end in the heart of Harbour Town in Sea Pines & North end of Hwy. 278 overlooking a panoramic view of Jarvis Creek. The “islander’s place for fresh seafood for over 30 years,” The Crazy Crab restaurants are a fun, casual, family-friendly atmosphere with adjacent playgrounds for kids. Fresh local seafood & voted (continued on page 20)

Best Crab legs on the island. Visit Jarvis Creek’s location for the largest saltwater aquarium and Brunch on Sundays. Enjoy their large expanded deck perfect for those warm weathered nights, listening to live, local music. Open Seven days a week reservations are highly recommended. A member of the Coastal Restaurants and Bars family of restaurants. Call (843) 363-2722 (Harbour Town), (843) 681-5021(Jarvis Creek) or visit thecrazycrab.com. @crazycrabhhi @thecrazycrabjarviscreek.

DEANO’S Opening this summer 2021. Located at 7C Greenwood drive in Reilley’s plaza. Featuring authentic Italian cuisine, Wood Oven pizza, steaks, seafood and more. Voted Georgia’s best pizza by USA Today, Best Shrimp and Grits by Magnolia Midlands and Paula Deen’s top 10 Pizza Hot Spots. Indoor and outdoor dining available as well as a late-night menu. Open daily for lunch and dinner from 11 a.m. until 10 p.m. Call (843) 301-0929 or visit www.deanoshhi.com.

THE DRYDOCK SEAFOOD GRILL & SPIRITS All new location at 840 William Hilton Pkwy. Go where the locals go for fresh seafood, cold drinks and good times. We are easy to find, but hard to leave. Choose from a wide variety of fresh seafood, signature sandwiches, salads and more in a casual and comfortable atmosphere. Dine inside or enjoy the outdoor patio. Open 7 days for lunch and dinner from 11:30 a.m. Call (843) 842-9775. ELA’S ON THE WATER Located at One Shelter Cove Lane. Featured in Bon Appetit and winner of numerous Open Table awards, Ela’s offers fresh catch seafood and prime cut steaks of the highest quality, all prepared by our culinary team of experts and complimented by an extensive boutique wine selection. Known for the best water views on the island, we have a casual intimate interior, wrap around dining patio exterior and nightly entertainment. Private parties, rehearsal dinners and special events welcome. Open for lunch Monday thru Friday, 11 a.m. until 2 p.m., Sunday Brunch from 11 a.m. until 2 p.m. and dinner nightly from 5 p.m. Reservations recommended. Call (843) 785-3030 or online at www.elasgrille.com.

FISHCAMP ON BROAD CREEK Located at 11 Simmons Road, mid-island on Broad Creek. Fishcamp is Hilton Head’s favorite casual waterfront dining destination. Enjoy delicious dishes such as Parmesan-Crusted Grouper, Seared Maine Scallops and fresh local oysters from their full raw bar. Set in a backyard, fish camp style ambiance complete with fire pit and stunning sunset views. Dine indoors, or enjoy the spacious, pet-friendly patio and bar (heated, covered areas available),while soaking in the low country lifestyle. Lunch from 11 a.m. - 4 p.m. with daily happy hour from 4-6 p.m. in the bar area only. Dinner service starting at

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