THE LOCAL ROOTS OF BULRUSH GIN

BY BARRY KAUFMAN • PHOTO BY ROB KAUFMAN

If you ever find yourself in Cincinnati, Ohio and in need of a drink, we have a recommendation for you. Simply tell your Uber driver to head toward the trendy Gateway Quarter at the south end of the OTR District to a little speakeasy by the name of Sundry and Vice. There you’ll find a beverage of unsurpassed refreshment called the Garnet, artfully blending Gin, Jamaican hibiscus syrup, lime, pineapple, ginger and burlesque bitters.

If the first sip draws your mind back to your home in the South Carolina Lowcountry, it’s not just because of the drink’s namesake connection to USC’s colors. No, that hint of home comes from the gin at the heart of the cocktail, a fullflavored, carefully crafted Lowcountry spirit by the name of Bulrush Gin.

Of course, Sundry and Vice doesn’t have a monopoly on the delectable balance of juniper, lavender and botanicals Bulrush brings to their cocktails. You’ll find Bulrush in trendy cocktail bars and retail liquor stores up and down the East Coast, from New York down to Georgia. But this being a Hilton Head Island-based drink, it only makes sense Ohioans would embrace it.

“It’s not as closely related to the Hilton Head/Ohio connection as you think,” said Bulrush founder Tony Bagnulo. “When we first launched in Ohio, I just spent a lot of time there. I met a lot of bartenders and got to know people. They just dug it. And the Cincinnati bar scene is awesome – probably one of the most underrated in the U.S.” And Bagnulo would know. For years before founding Broad Creek Spirits Company, for which Bulrush Gin is the flagship product, he worked in liquor marketing. His territory was anywhere good times were found, leading him to crisscross the country as he met with bartenders and retailers. It’s a network he’s put to good use after forging his own path. Bulrush Gin was crafted from meticulously cultivated ingredients from juniper and cardamom and ginger, but its reputation was built on pure hustle. “It’s been a lot of just being there, just being present,” said Bagnulo. “A lot of the time it’s just connecting with people and sharing the story. Rinse and repeat. It’s all about building those relationships.”

Of course, those relationships were first built on Hilton Head Island, which is why you’ll find Bulrush in virtually ever bar and liquor store in the Lowcountry. “We celebrate the spirit of the Lowcountry,” said Bagnulo. “We’re probably one of the few gins you would ever drink on the May River sandbar.”

Like so many of us, Bagnulo entered 2020 with big plans for expansion. The Lowcountry and Ohio had come to embrace the wildly different flavor profile Bulrush presents compared to other gins, and his inroads throughout Atlanta were paying off. Even forays into the notoriously competitive New York market and the bourbon-dominated Kentucky market had begun to bear fruit.

“You go into mom-and-pop retailers in Louisville and they’ll have 50 feet of bourbons,” he said. “That’s tough to break into, but they drink other things, too. They like cocktails.” And then came this past year, and all that 2020 entailed. And yes, as a whole the liquor industry did fairly well for itself as we all hunkered down through the lockdown, pouring ourselves triples as we binged Tiger King. But for the most part, it was the big brands who did well during pandemic.

“It wasn’t like people were walking into the liquor store to browse obscure bottles of craft gin,” said Bagnulo with a laugh. “They were getting the stuff they knew and then getting out.”

So Bagnulo did what most craft distillers did – pivoted. He produced hand sanitizer to cover the scarcity of the first few months of the year (“It was basically 160 proof Bulrush. That’ll kill anything.”). He brought his storytelling approach to marketing to Zoom, leading discussions with bartenders around the country on the art and science of gin. And he relied on the close-knit circles of bars, restaurants and retailers in the Lowcountry who have become his biggest champions.

“We were actually up last year,” he said. “Part of it was initial shipments to new markets and part of it was South Carolina doing so well for us.”

And with 2020 behind him, Bagnulo is looking to the future of not only Bulrush Gin, but Broad Creek Spirits Company. “Because we have a really good retail and distributor footprint, we’re looking into what other brands to launch,” he said. “We’re 95 percent of the way toward importing a really good mezcal.”

Working with a distillery in Oaxaca, Bagnulo plans to bring this new mezcal to market using the same grit and hustle that has made Bulrush a regional standard. He’s not stopping there, either. With 2020 behind him, he’s eyeing the possibilities of a dip into the bourbon world with a blender or bonder from barrels he collects along his travels.

“It’s basically what I’ve done with Bulrush, cultivating these contacts at distilleries,” he said. “And if they have an overrun or a random barrel that’s been aging for a while… let’s take this bourbon and age it in cognac barrels and see what happens.”

It’s crazy enough that it just might work, which was the same thing that could be said about Bulrush Gin just a few years ago. Look at what’s happened since then.

Description: A delicious and refreshing recipe for cucumber lemonade. It’s tart, semi-sweet, and super refreshing.

• 3 oz fresh lemon juice • 3 oz fresh cucumber juice • 2 oz Bulrush Gin • 2 oz simple syrup • Club soda

In a tall glass, combine the lemon juice, cucumber juice, gin, and simple syrup. Stir. Add ice and top off with club soda. Taste and add more simple syrup if more sweetness is desired. Garnish with lemon and cucumber slices. Enjoy!

Description: Spanish style G & T, named after the original Spanish colony in Port Royal, SC. In Spain, the bartender doesn’t ask you what you want to drink, he asks you how you want your gin and tonic prepared. This simplest of drinks – just gin, tonic, ice and a garnish (pick a fun, locally grown garnish), but served in a large wine style glass.

• 1 oz Bulrush Gin • 4 oz premium tonic • Lime or Lemon • Garnish with locally selected garnish

Build the Santa Elena in a large white wine glass over ice. Place a lime wedge in the glass then pour Bulrush gin and tonic. Add some lime or lemon peel and a local garnish of your choice.

Glassware: Rocks Glass

• 2 oz Bulrush Gin • ½ oz Fresh Lime Juice • ½ oz Simple Syrup • 1 sprig of mint • Club Soda

Add the Bulrush Gin, lime juice, simple syrup and mint to a shaker and fill with ice. Shake well and strain into a highball or Collins glass filled with fresh ice.

Top with club soda and garnish with a lime.

available. Offering take-out and curbside service. Call (843) 681-2386 or visit OldFortPub.com for a complete menu or to make reservations.

THE OLD OYSTER FACTORY Located at 101 Marshland Rd. This iconic waterfront dining destination has stunning views of the low country off Broad Creek. Serving fresh local seafood for 32 years, now adding Chef’s creations of low country cuisine to the menu. With the addition of the expansive raw bar and Brunch on Sundays you will see why this is a local staple. The back deck with an outside patio bar offers intimate sunset views while dining on the water. From families, date-nights to large parties there is an amazing dining experience for everyone. Open for lunch at 11 a.m. through dinner daily and Brunch on Sundays. Call (843) 681-6040 or visit us www.oldoysterfactory.com. @theoldoysterfactory & @oldoysterfactory.

THE PEARL KITCHEN & BAR Located at 55 Calhoun Street in the historic art district of Bluffton. The Pearl brings a fresh approach to dining focusing on a complete sensory experience offering fresh “clean eating”. Contemporary food preparations utilizing the best fresh catch seafood, certified steaks and local produce available. Live music Thursday thru Saturday. Lunch Thursday thru Saturday. Open for dinner daily at 5 p.m. Reservations recommended, call (843) 757-5511. REDFISH Located at the corner of Palmetto Bay Rd. and Archer Rd. Serving Innovative Cuisine in a unique and inviting atmosphere. Offering local seafood, steaks, salads and nightly specials. Attached retail wine shop and bar with over 1,000 selections of fine wines. Outdoor seating available. Serving lunch Monday thru Saturday from 11:30 a.m. and dinner daily from 5 p.m. For more information call (843) 686-3388 or online at www.redfishofhiltonhead.com.

REILLEY’S GRILL & BAR Located in Reilley’s Plaza, just off Sea Pines Circle. This local favorite, family-owned & operated establishment has been serving up delicious steaks, seafood, pasta and sandwiches on Hilton Head Island since 1982. With a sophisticated warm ambiance, family-friendly atmosphere, this Island institution is where you can enjoy nightly specials, mimosas at Sunday brunch or casual drinks and bar menu with friends over a game on one of the many TVs. (Voted Island’s Best Sports bar) Lunch and dinner served seven days a week. Their dining options include indoors, outdoor (heated, covered areas available), as well as online ordering and curbside pick-up. Happy hour from 4 until 7 p.m. Take-out, curbside, catering or drop off services available. A member of The Coastal Restaurants and Bars family of restaurants. Call (843) 842-4414 or visit reilleyshiltonhead.com @reilleyshhi.

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REILLEY’S NORTH END PUB Located in Port Royal Plaza. The sister restaurant of Reilley’s Grill & Bar (located on the south end), Reilley’s North End Pub has been serving up delicious steaks, seafood, pasta and sandwiches on Hilton Head for over 30 years. With a sophisticated warm ambiance, Reilley’s is reminiscent of a true Boston pub. Experience the family-friendly atmosphere for some local fun and Tuesday Trivia. Enjoy nightly dinner specials with family, or toasting to the good life with mimosas and Sunday Brunch. Lunch and dinner served seven days a week. Happy hour daily from 4 until 7p.m. Take-out available. A member of the Coastal Restaurants and Bars family of restaurants. Call (843) 681-4153 for reservations or visit reilleysnorth.com. #reilleysnorth. @reilleysnorthendpub.

ROCKFISH SEAFOOD AND STEAKS @BOMBORAS Located a at 5 Lagoon Road across from Coligny near the beach. Rockfish, a Seafood Destination, offers fresh oysters, fresh shrimp, local seafood, steaks and much much more. Featuring a fun and inviting indoor or outdoor dining experience. The owners are from Cincinnati so they have an intriguing “Cincinnati” section to their menu featuring Montgomery Inn Ribs, Big Boy Burgers and more. Extensive craft draft list, wine and creative cocktails. Want a date night? Drop your kids off at the Art Cafe (a paint your own pottery studio located just above Rockfish) during their Kids Night Out and enjoy a night out alone! Happy hour starting at 4 p.m., Early Bird menu available between 4 - 5:45 p.m. and dinner 7 days a week. Make your reservation on Opentable, Call (843) 689-2662 or visit online at rockfishhhi.com.

RUAN THAI HUT Located at 1107 Main Street. Serving Authentic Thai fare using the freshest ingredients available. Mild to very hot, you can choose the spice level of your meal. Appetizers, soups, salads, desserts and kids meals round out an extensive menu with something for all ages. Sit inside or outside on the comfortable patio. Open Monday thru Saturday for lunch and dinner. Call (843) 681-3700.

SAGE ROOM Located at 75 Pope Avenue in Heritage Plaza. Enjoy fine dining in a casual atmosphere with unique appetizers, diverse cuisine and nightly innovative specials. Elegant palate pleasing fare is prepared in our open kitchen which highlights the restaurant. An extensive wine list, full bar and fantastic service, complete a perfect night out. Open for dinner Monday thru Saturday from 6 until 10 p.m. Reservations are recommended. Call (843) 785-5352 or check us out online at www.thesageroom.com.

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Lunch and Dinner daily 11 a.m. Until 10 p.m. • Sat. Brunch 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. Sun. Brunch 9 a.m. - 2 p.m. • Happy Hour Daily from 4 until 7 p.m. Hilton Head Island, Village at Wexford: 843.686.6736 • Bluffton, Sheridan Park: 843.815.6736 Voted Islands Best All Around Restaurant 2012 Best Bar/Tavern 2015 and Best Fish & Chips 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019!!!

THE SALTY DOG CAFE Located at South Beach Marina in Sea Pines. Great food, frozen drinks and live entertainment from the island’s favorite outdoor cafe. Enjoy beautiful waterfront views overlooking Braddock’s Cove in a fun and casual atmosphere. Happy Hour daily with a full menu available, plus an outdoor cookout, Salty Dog Ice Cream and Jake’s Pizza during the season. Call (843) 671-CAFE (2233) for seasonal hours.

THE SANDBAR Located at 101 Pope Avenue in historic Coligny Plaza just steps away from Coligny Beach. The Sandbar always has something delicious cooking. With its beach inspired decor, comfortable seating and laid back atmosphere, they are serving up signature dishes such as Hurricane Shrimp, Jamaican Jerk Tacos and Parmesan Crusted Grouper. The Sandbar is a great place for families and friends to enjoy the outdoor bar and patio and share amazing foods and drinks. Children will also feel welcome with their own menu and special children’s table. Call (843) 342-SAND (7263) or visit us online at www.sandbarhhi.com.

SANTA FE CAFÉ Located at 807 William Hilton Parkway near the entrance to Palmetto Dunes. Our elegant yet casual, cozy atmosphere captures the spirit of New Mexico. Innovative southwestern cuisine features dinner favorites such as Tortilla Crusted Salmon, Wood Roasted Quail, Grouper, 30 oz. Ribeye and many more great selections including vegetarian items. Excellent wine list, imported beers and full bar. Early dining menu from 5 until 6 p.m. Live entertainment Tues. thru Sat. Take-out available. Reservations are “gladly” accepted. Open for dinner 7 nights a week from 5 until 10 p.m. Call (843) 785-3838 or www. santafehhi.com.

SKILLETS CAFE Located just off the beach in Coligny Plaza. An excellent choice for the whole family since 1994. Wonderful selections including burgers, jambalaya, grilled, broiled and fried seafood and build your own pasta dishes or our extensive salad bar. Gluten Free menu as well as vegan dishes available. Full bar and wine list available. Kids menu and take-out. Dine inside or on the patio (Dog Friendly). Open daily from 7 a.m. until 10 p.m. Call (843) 785-3131 or check us out online at www.skilletscafe.com.

STEAMER SEAFOOD Located at 8 Executive Park Rd. just off Pope Avenue. Featuring huge portions of fresh seafood, shellfish, sandwiches, soups, salads and dessert all served in a casual Lowcountry atmosphere. Fresh catch specials daily. The most kid-friendly restaurant on the island offers inside seating or outside on the covered patio. Live entertainment, full bar and take out available. Open Mon.–Fri., 4 until 10 p.m. and Sat. and Sun., 11 a.m. until 10 p.m. Call (843) 785-2070 or visit us online at www.steamerseafood.com.

STELLINI ITALIAN RESTAURANT Located at 15 Executive Park Dr., just off Pope Avenue. Celebrating 32 years! Voted the Island’s best Italian restaurant, Stellini features popular menu items from the Little Italy section of New York and northern New Jersey. Choose from items such as Clams Casino, Veal Saltimbocca, Zuppa di Pesce, Osso Buco, Lasagna and more. Chefs specialties created nightly. Extensive wine list, Early Bird specials, children’s menu and take-out available. Serving dinner Monday thru Saturday from 5 p.m. Call (843) 785-7006 for reservations.

STREET MEET Located in Port Royal Plaza. This Family Tavern & Restaurant is HHI’s Ohio Bar and Home of the HHI Browns Backers. Kitchen serving food from 11:30 a.m. until 11 p.m. 7 days/week. Offering a wide range of homemade, from scratch American food at reasonable prices and have been voted Island’s Best Wings, Best Fish and Chips, Best Burger and Best Hotdog (“Hofmann from Syracuse, NY). Featuring a complete Healthy Menu that includes GlutenFree, Paleo, & Vegetarian options plus more. Full bar with daily drink specials and happy hour as well as indoor & outdoor seating plus a new dining room that is great for large parties or groups. Kids pay what they weigh on Saturday! Call (843) 842-2570 or online at www.streetmeethhi.com.

SUNSET GRILLE Located on the Intracoastal Waterway at Hilton Head Harbor, 43 Jenkins Rd. The Grille offers a casual fine dining experience with breathtaking sunset views. The creative menu features house specialties such as Hugh’s famous hot smoked salmon, shrimp & grits, grilled sea scallops & braised lamb shank all prepared to perfection. An extensive wine list, craft beer selection and full bar available. Call (843) 689-6744 for reservations or visit sunsetgrillehhi.com. Dinner is served Tues.-Sat. 6 p.m. until.

TRUFFLES CAFE Located in Sea Pines Center and Belfair Towne Village in Bluffton. Enjoying our 38th year of offering casual upscale dining in a friendly and relaxed atmosphere. Our menu features fresh seafood, Black Angus steaks, baby back ribs, homemade soups, fresh and flavorful entree salads, house ground burgers, delicious pasta, and amazing homemade desserts. Outside seating is available at both locations. Full bar and fine wines by the glass or bottle. Private dining available for 6 to 100 people. Serving lunch and dinner 7 days a week from 11:30 a.m. - 10 p.m. Call (843) 671-6136 (Sea Pines) or (843) 815-5551 (Bluffton) or go to www.trufflescafe.com to make reservations.

THE WRECK OF THE SALTY DOG Located at South Beach Marina in Sea Pines. Enjoy a casual and fun atmosphere in the same spirit as The Salty Dog Cafe. Serving a full bar with excellent food and waterfront view overlooking South Beach Marina and Braddock’s Cove, The Wreck offers excellent Happy Hour drink and appetizer specials. Available for private parties. Call (843) 671-SEAS (7327) for seasonal hours.