Cool as Ice

Cool Cymru

Chill out over summer with Lowri Haf Cooke as she takes the coolest road-trip ever around Wales...

Cadwalader’s, Cricieth

What could possibly top a swim in Cricieth on Penrhyn Llŷn? How about a traditional ice cream cone from Cadwalader’s, and a sunset to break your heart? Tear your eyes away from the view towards the distant Rhinogydd mountains, and walk uphill towards the native Welsh castle. Around the corner you’ll find the parlour that’s the pride of Eifionydd since it opened in 1927. Hannah Cadwalader’s original family recipe included ‘a great deal of love and care’, and from veganfriendly sorbets, to gluten-free cones, all needs are still catered for. You’ll find branches in Tenby, Porthmadog and Betws y Coed – and a two-for-one deal on Sundaes each Monday at the parlour in Cardiff Bay. As the old question goes, ‘How many ‘C’’s are there in Cricieth? There’s only one when it comes to fans of ice cream!

Cadwalader’s, The Iris, Castle Street, Cricieth Gwynedd LL52 0DP; tel: 01766 523665

Forte’s Ice cream, Llandudno

Onorio Forte came to Llandudno from Mortale (now Monforte) in the central Italian region of Lazio. He used to sell his ice cream – a family recipe – from his van, and opened his famous cafe restaurant in 1926. Forte’s is still going strong, run by David, his grandson, and offers 35 tempting ice cream flavours. Amongst recent award-winners are the Classic Vanilla, Rum and Raisin, and Blackberry Sorbet. But for a cut above the rest, give the Gold Star-awarded Mascarpone and Caramelised Fig Ice Cream a test – described ‘exquisite’ by the Great Taste judges in 2018.

Forte’s Ice Cream, 69 Mostyn Street, Llandudno, Conwy LL30 2NN; tel: 01492 471193

Green and Jenks, Monmouth and Cardiff

Green and Jenks could lay claim to being Wales’ oldest ice cream maker. They are able to trace their origins back to Victorian entrepreneur, and ancestor of the current owners, Frederick Green and the dairy he set up in 1888 on Albany Road, Cardiff – Roath Park Dairy Company. Nowadays, their stunning gelato (ranked in the top 20 in the UK by The Guardian) and stylish but cosy café come parlour, make Green and Jenks the place to go in Monmouth. The home-made gelato, much of which is gluten-free, is available in myriad orthodox, interesting and seasonal flavours, such as apple and blackberry, marmalade and our personal favourites, the Great Taste Award winning flavours “Chuckleberry Frozen Yogurt” made with chuckleberrys from a local fruit farm and “Caffe Latte” made with their own espresso coffee. Whilst they still wholesale their gelato under the Roath Park Dairy name, charmingly, events are coming full circle with the imminent opening of their new parlour and deli on Wellfield Road, a stone’s throw from the original Cardiff dairy.

As ice cream fashions and modern palates have evolved over time, one flavour has come to define the zeitgeist. You’ll find salted caramel ice cream all over the world, but for some, the finest is from Conti’s of Lampeter! A strange juxtaposition, and a shock to the system, it’s truly a marriage made in heaven between salty and sweet. Like many Italians from Bardi, who travelled to the south Wales valleys, Arthur Conti opened his own ‘Bracchi’ cafe. His son Leno migrated west to Ystalafera, before settling in 1946 in Lampeter, where locals fondly remember his legendary ‘Coke Floats’. His daughter Jo, a costume designer (with Pobol y Cwm and Casualty), and her son Tom ensure that the famous family ice cream lives on. The secret of their success is by respecting tradition, then offering new twists to tempt the customers of Ceredigion.

Conti’s, 5 Harford Square, Lampeter, Ceredigion SH48 7HD; tel: 01570 422223

Llanfaes Dairy, Brecon

What was originally a grocer’s at the heart of the Brecon Beacons is now one of Wales’ biggest foodie attractions. In 1995, Paul and Eirlys Cole expanded their shop to include an ice cream parlour, but by 2003, it was all about their iced artisan delights. Located opposite Christ College, you’d be wise to avoid the school rush hour, but take your pick, at any one time, from 42 seasonal flavours. A popular flavour over Easter was the classic Creme Egg, but during summer, try the Jaffa Cake, Ferrero Rocher or Raspberry Pavlova. An unexpected favourite with grown-ups is Kinder Bueno, whilst kids go mad in Brecon for Bubble Gum. A thousand litres of ice cream are churned daily over summer, to keep up with the high demand. For a blast from the past, go for the classic Vanilla, Fruit Cake or Rum and Raisin.

Llanfaes Dairy Ice Cream Bar, 19 Bridge Street, Brecon LD3 8AH; tel: 01874 625892

Mario’s, Cross Hands

Third-generation Italian-Welsh ice cream maker, Mario Dallevalle, is famous all over South Wales. You’ll find his first name at supermarkets, and attractions from Gower, Barry Island and Cardiff’s New Theatre. At their base in Cross Hands, for over forty years, Mario and family have produced ‘the cream of Carmarthenshire’. They use wholesome Welsh milk and thick double cream from farmer John Phillips’ herd at Cwm Farm in Cwmffrwd. A firm favourite at the ‘Hufen Iâ’ shop at St Fagans National Museum of History is Chocolate, followed by Strawberry and Honeycomb. There’s even a dairy free range, as well as alcohol sorbets - try the Apple Cider sorbet midsummer. For a taste of the exotic, go for the zesty Kalamansi sorbet which secured a 2018 Gold Great Taste award.

Mario’s Ice Cream, Unit H, Heol y Plas, Cross Hands Food Park SA14 6SX; tel: 01269 845080

Joe’s, Swansea

Mumbles may claim Verdi’s but when you find yourself in Swansea, head straight for the suburb of St. Helen’s. Between Dylan Thomas’ Uplands and Brangwyn Hall, Swansea Jacks go mad for Joe’s. The story goes back to 1895, when Luigi Cascarini first came to Swansea, and opened a successful chain of cafes. His son, Guiseppe (Joe) opened his ice cream parlour at 85 St. Helen’s Road in 1922, introducing Swansea to fresh vanilla gelato. Enrico, Joe’s son, created the famed ‘soft scoop’, that is still the pride of Swansea. You’ll find Joe’s all over, from Harrod’s to Llanelli, and the corner parlour next to Cardiff’s Roath Park. Popular flavours include blue Bubblegum and rose-scented Turkish Delight. But for the authentic experience, head for Joe’s HQ, for the ‘thrilla’ that is vanilla!

Joe’s Ice Cream, Swansea, 85 St. Helen’s Road, Swansea SA1 4BQ; tel: 01792 702265