taste. blas magazine - Winter 22

Celebrating great food and drink in Wales

Winter 2022

IT’S ONLY A GAME

Welsh pheasant, venison and more…

WELSH CHAMPIONS! Wales’ Great Taste winners

CRAFT FOOD ARTISAN The new magazine for food artisans!

FESTIVE PLEASURES

Grub, Grog and Gifts

FOOTY FOODIES

Match of the Day munchies

WELSH FEASTIVALS

2022’s best food fests

PLUS FOOD AND DRINK REVIEWS, NEWS, COOKING TIPS AND RECIPES GALORE

Publisher’s Letter Pack up your troubles in your Christmas sock and smile, smile, smile.

There’s something to be said for WW1’s flippant response to the horrors of the trenches. Those Tommies knew there was little to be gained from fretting about what might or might not happen, preferring to put it out of mind and concentrate on what moments of pleasure and happiness they could draw from the chaos of their time. And with the year we’ve just had we need to do the same and really make the most of the Festive season.

It may have been a turbulent year on the back of a couple of really turbulent years but it’s heartening to see that the Welsh food and drink community and all the various people behind the scenes are pulling out the stops to ensure we can all make the most of Christmas and beyond. Anyone visiting the RWAS Winter fair, or the myriad Christmas markets, or the restaurants up and down the country bedecked in Christmas decorations can’t help but be uplifted at how every effort is being made to make this Christmas and the New Year special. As if to prove the point, this issue is packed with wonderful Welsh food and drink – from Great Taste winners to game, Christmas goodies to

foodie festivals. And we have the inaugural edition of the Culinary Association of Wales’ magazine, Craft Food Artisan, showing us how amazing our hospitality sector is.

For us personally, we’d like to say a big thank you to you, our readers, and to our advertisers and all those who have continued to support our efforts throughout 2022 to celebrate Welsh food and drink and to get it to the top of shopping lists.

We appreciate that the quality of the produce coming from our wonderful, often artisan, food and drink community is second to none, but that may mean that there are cheaper options. Which makes it all the more heart-warming to know that foodies up and down the country persist in spending a little more to buy Welsh.

So, on behalf of our producers thank you and long may it continue!

Paul Mulligan Publisher

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Contributors: Jon Gower, Myfanwy

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To receive taste.blas call: 029 2019 0224 taste.blas Magazine is published by Conroy Media Ltd, PO Box 607, Cardiff CF24 1ZR ©Conroy Media 2019. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. Whilst every care has been taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers can not be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views expressed in taste.blas are not necessarily those of the editor or the publishers.

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Contents Features Footie Foody Munchies Great Welsh grub to munch on the terraces, or the sofa

Good Game, Good Game A healthy, sustainable alternative on our doorstep

Great on a Plate Wales celebrates after the 2022 Great Taste Awards

Christmas Dinner Winners Add some extra sparkle to the big day

If Turkeys Could Sing Carols!

They’d have themselves a very, veggie Christmas

Mulled Cywain Cywain spreads cheer amongst Welsh producers

Out On The Trail Don your walking boots for Carmarthenshire’s food trails

All Present and Correct Great Welsh gifts for foodies

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Feast Your Eyes on These Wales best food festivals reviewed

Busy As a Bee There’s no rest for Cywain supported honey producer Wainwrights

Regulars Truffle at the Top Jon Gower enjoys a Welsh gastronomic delight

Hold the Front Page The latest news hot off the press

Restaurant Reviews Keeping it local!

Recipes The diet starts in January!

Finger Lickin’ Treats Let our food and drink reviews tickle your taste buds

A Right Royal Christmas Myfanwy speculates on Cambrophile Charles III’s first Christmas as King

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©Marian Delyth

Jon Gower Truffle hunting Autumn. The ‘season of mists and mellow fruitfulness’ – as the poet John Keats has it – is also a time of a myriad mushrooms and fantastic fungi, when the woodland floor is a mulching bonanza of moulds and mildews as the ageing year decays, I have a cherished memory of picking wild fungi such as ceps and chanterelles in the beech woods around Abergavenny before chef Franco Taruschio cooked them up with his own home made pasta in his restaurant at The Walnut Tree.

Not satisfied with offering a bowl of what might have easily been described as “quintessence of woodland floor” the beaming chef deftly added liberal shavings of black truffle, which must have cost an arm and two legs. But it made it extra special and turned me into a fan of this high-end fungus.

So it was with some excitement, five years ago, that I read about the first cultivated Perigord truffle being found by a spaniel called Bella on a farm in Monmouthshire. The Welsh Truffle company now successfully produces both Burgundy truffles and Perigord truffles in their Monkswood orchard on the border of Monmouthshire and Torfaen. It’s a richly if subtly perfumed corner of the world of Welsh food.

When I was in Ireland this spring a news report said they had also experimented successfully with growing truffles. And not just any old truffles but black truffles – one of the most expensive food ingredients in the world – now successfully cultivated in Ireland for the first time.

The summer or ‘Burgundy’ black truffle had been cultivated by Prof. Paul W. Thomas of the University of Sterling in Scotland in a project started ten 10 years ago. The fungi were growing with the root system of native oak trees that had been treated to encourage truffle growth.

Approximately 200g of truffles – about €180 worth – were found by a dog trained specifically for that purpose. In days gone by, snouting pigs were used to sniff out truffles, having a natural affinity for them.

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Unfortunately, this also meant that they would swallow them – something not copied by dogs. The largest single truffle found in a secret location on the Emerald Isle weighed 100g – which could be worth up to €90.

The summer or Burgundy variety is highly sought after in high-class cuisine. This variety of truffle is valued in cooking for its strong flavour and smell. They are more commonly found in southern and Mediterranean parts of Europe. However, drought in those areas is resulting in falling yields, while global demand goes up.

Truffles bear a pungent, musky and complex aroma that has been likened to a combination of garlic, forest floor, nuts, and cocoa. It’s clearly distinctive enough to attract the attention of a keen spaniel’s nose, even when hidden away underground. Our own dog Ianto might prove to be a good truffle hound as he can sniff out toy bones at a thousand leagues. But I suspect he’d eat them too as he’s a scavenger.

The truffle’s flesh is equally complicated, its flavour needing several adjectives to do it justice such as ‘robust,’ ‘subtly sweet,’ ‘savoury,’ and ‘earthy’ the last of which, given where it grows, being a bit of a given.

Truffle cognoscenti suggest that there are often notes of pepper, mushrooms, mint, and hazelnut, none of which can be obtained by sniffing a packet of standard supermarket ‘shrooms, that’s for certain.

But sometimes you don’t need a dog. My fellow taste.blas columnist Myfanwy Alexander recently told me about when she was walking with her brother-inlaw Amos one fine day in October. They had climbed a sweep of land called Cefn Coch, above Cwm Drain in Montgomeryshire, when he stopped dead in his tracks and said ‘Tartufo,’ being the Italian word for truffle.

Amos, originally from the island of Elba was convinced he could smell truffles and, when they looked, they did indeed manage to unearth a black truffle. It was the size of Amos’ fist and, being a farmer, his fist is not inconsiderable in size. It was a sensory, autumn moment that confirmed that the human nose is a miraculous organ, sensitive enough to scent a valuable fungus hidden underground on a wild Welsh hillside.

Buy local.

Think global.

PGI WELSH BEEF PAD THAI

eatwelshbeef.com

‘Wales. Food.

Drink.

In That Order.’

The FIFA World Cup 2022 has seen the Welsh men’s team in a World Cup competition for the first time since 1958. This is cause for celebration, and while there are no guarantees progression to the final is on the menu, great food certainly is. So if you’re planning on getting your friends and family over for an evening of cheering on the boys, or your second favourite team, with a tipple or two, here are our top recommendations for a fabulously Welsh FIFA World Cup larder.

Snacks & Grazing To kick things off, the ultimate football cuisine - here are some of our favourite snacks. Perfect for any main event, our choice is Jones Salted Popcorn. Delicately coated in Halen Môn sea salt, this handmade popcorn will leave you wanting ‘Moore Moore Moore’, if football chants are your thing (£1.19 / 20g. Visit blasarfwyd.com for details).

If you’re really after something to get your teeth into, try Trailhead’s Beef Jerky. Original, Black Pepper, Spicy Chilli Beef and BBQ, there’s a flavour to suit everyone’s palate. Better yet, Trailhead’s Beef Jerky is made from 100% PGI Welsh Beef. (Available from £3.30 / 40g from trailheadfinefoods.co.uk).

Not quite satisfied? Maybe you’re after something sweet. Keep your cool on match day with some Cool Candy! The Cool Candy range includes Fizzy Apples, Rainbow Sours, and classics such as Giant Strawberries, and did we mentioned they’re Vegan?

At £4.47 / 105g, they’re very cool indeed. (Visit blasarfwyd.com for details).

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Cheese Where there be snacks, let there be cheese, and plenty of it. We recommend Caws Teifi’s award winning Organic Halloumi. Great served grilled, fried, barbecued or baked or even as fries to enjoy with the game. (£4.95 per 200g, teificheese.co.uk).

Caws Cenarth’s Mature Cheese with Leeks is a creamy, mature cheese with the addition of a traditional Welsh ingredient and flavour profile, leeks.

Soft and crumbly, this cheese would make for a taste sensation in sauces or crumbled into mash potato. (£5.50 per 200g, cawscenarth.co.uk).

For the more traditional cheese lovers and cheddar fanatics, we suggest Collier’s Powerful Extra Mature Cheddar (Waitrose, £3.00 / 350g) or Dragon Mature Welsh Cheddar (Asda, £1.70 / 180g) as delicious and reliable cheeses to serve to guests or all to yourself.

Meat The main event for the main event! If you’re looking to impress with some seriously flavourful, hearty burgers, then look no further than Edwards of Conwy Welsh Steak Burgers (Asda, £2.75 / 320g). Made with prime cuts of 100% PGI Welsh Beef to an award-winning recipe, these delicious burgers will get you through 90 minutes of joy, sorrow and everything in-between.

Wilfreds The Saucy Cow traditional Steak & Ale Pie from the Lewis Pie & Pastry Co. is also high on our lists of match day recommendations. Traditional, flavourful, and made with real Welsh ale with a kick of mustard for good measure, this is a true winter warmer and is an essential to any match evening in (£14.50, 4 PK, available at lewispies.co.uk).

Myrddin Heritage have a fantastic range of breakfast treats for you to enjoy. Their Breakfast Chipolatas (£4.50, 8 PK, available at myrddinheritage.wales) are designed specifically for breakfast and will cook as quickly as your bacon does. As well as Myrddin Heritage’s excellent chipolatas, why not try their signature black pudding, Pwdin Du. Made with free-range back fat from ex breeding sows at Myrddin Heritage, it completes any full breakfast. (£3.80 / 350g, available at myrddinheritage.wales).

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Alcohol We all might need something to calm the nerves when the World Cup comes around this November, and we recommend a beverage inspired by the team’s captain. Bale Lager by Glamorgan Brewery Co. is a refreshingly crisp lager brewed in partnership with the man himself, Gareth Bale! This match winning brew boasts a balanced hop profile with a cute back-heel assist by a subtle biscuit flavoured malt (£21.42 / 12 x 440ml, available at glamorganbrewing.co.uk).

Of course if you really want to get behind the boys, Brecon Brewing’s The Red Wall Lager is the ultimate beverage. The Official Lager of Welsh Football Team, this beer is perfect for any sofa supporter wanting to be part of the Red Wall (For details, head to breconbrewing.co.uk).

If it’s ale you’re after, Untapped Brewing Co.’s Ember Ale is strong, rich and perfect for cold nights in on the sofa. It also boasts awards such as CAMRA Champion beer of Wales and Silver Champion Winter beer of Britain! (£27.50 / 12 x 500ml, available at www.untappedbrew.com).

Wrexham Lager’s Bootlegger 1974 Pilsner also deserves an honourable mention. Inspired by living Welsh legend and social media superstar, Bootlegger, this light, delicious pilsner is available in a ‘working man’s kettle’ – a 5L keg (£22.50 / 5L, available at wrexhamlager.co.uk).

If lager isn’t your style, then the light refreshing botanicals of Aber Falls Welsh Gin is just the thing for you. From small batch variants, to traditionally flavoured gins, there’s plenty to choose from, but Aber Falls Orange Marmalade Gin is our recommendation.

Boasting a refined balance of sweet notes with bitter orange flavours, this will cut through all of that delicious match day food (Morrisons, £25 / 70cl).

Penderyn’s 10th Icons of Wales Edition whisky – ‘YMA O HYD’ is produced in partnership with FA Wales as their official whisky for the Wales campaign at this year’s World Cup. Named after Dafydd Iwan’s patriotic anthem of the same name, this whiskey is smooth, with notes of caramel and black pepper spices (£40 / 70cl, available at penderyn.wales).

The Fan Zone Understandably, you might not choose to stay at home and may want to find a nearby fan zone or pub with the game on, and as this will be a historic winter World Cup, you’re going to need to keep warm. Melin Tregwynt offer a fabulous array of garments to keep you warm over the coming autumn winter months, including scarfs, coats, jumpers and gloves. Our favourites are Melin Tregwynt’s Ty Newydd Alpaca Pom Beanie (£35, store.melintregwynt.co.uk) and the traditional Diamond Tweed Flat Cap (£30, store.melintregwynt.co.uk).

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Game Nic Reuben discovers a healthy and sustainable alternative source of meat on our doorstep.

We’re starting to ask more from our meat. Not just as food lovers, but as consumers and community members making conscious efforts to buy not only high quality, but local, cruelty free, and sustainable.

Game is the perfect match to meet these demands.

The sustainability of game production means that the countryside is protected, preserved, and maintained.

It’s produced in high welfare environments, and a boon to the local economy. Once it’s made its way to your plate, you’ll find more protein and less cholesterol than the usual fare. It’s also delicious, of course, but we wouldn’t be writing about it if it wasn’t!

Welsh Game is nothing new

Will Oakley

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Scottish grouse moors and English deer parks aren’t the only places in the UK with a rich history of game.

Early medieval Welsh texts, The Mabinogion and The Law of Hywel Dda, both refer extensively to the hunting of deer and wild birds. World renowned Ynyshir Restaurant was once Queen Victoria’s hunting lodge and Wentwood Forest, near Chepstow, was once a hunting preserve and is now the largest area of ancient woodland in Wales. So Wales is an abundant source of a sustainable and healthy supply of game, if you know where to look.

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Will Oakley from Willo Game, whose company is one of the UK’s major processors of game, is a huge advocate of Welsh game in particular. “There’s been a tendency to overlook Welsh game but it’s probably the best there is. Welsh venison is increasingly well known for its amazing quality, and it’s so healthy, it’s unbelievable. And the Welsh countryside and game estates are perfect environments for pheasant”. He continues “Everybody’s becoming more conscious of sustainability, food miles and sourcing local produce and game fits that profile exactly. Combined with its nutritional values of high protein and low fat, and, being easy to source and prepare, it’s a no-brainer.

Other people around the world really appreciate and enjoy Welsh game and we should be doing the same as it’s on our doorstep and we’d be supporting our rural communities and economy.”

Range of Game The term ‘game’ not only includes venison but also covers wild boar, pigeons, and rabbits. However Wales’ most common and widely available game are gamebirds, including pheasant, partridge, grouse, woodcock and duck. So there is a real bounty of Welsh game on offer.

On Starting with venison, for those new to cooking with wild game, venison mince from Welsh deer offers a perfect introduction. This delicious, complex meat is leaner and richer in protein than beef mince, but can be added to any recipe that would traditionally call for beef - everything from hearty cottage pies to spicy tacos and creamy lasagne.

Venison’s flavour, sustainability, and health benefits are just a few of this versatile meat’s fabulous traits.

But alongside the five types of deer that Wales is home to - that’s red, roe, fallow, muntjac, and the odd sika there’s a treasure trove of other game meat that shares these characteristics.

Seasonality and taste go hand in hand with gamebirds.

When the pheasant season begins in October, the meat is milder, but as the season goes on and the birds have more time to forage on wild berries and seeds - and to stay active in the wonderful Welsh wilds - the meat will grow richer, denser, and leaner. It’s for these reasons that early season pheasant is best roasted, while late season works perfectly for slow, hearty, and warming dishes.

Grouse - which have the darkest and most complex meat of the gamebirds - are a similar story. The season begins on the famous ‘Glorious’ twelfth of August. As the months progress, the older Grouse becomes leaner and tougher, but richly flavourful - perfect for recipes with a lot of spice, like Indian curries or tagines. For those taking their first foray into cooking with game, partridge - offering a delicious but less traditionally ‘gamey’ flavour, especially younger birds - make a

simple (but far more exciting!) substitute for chicken.

If you’ve spotted deer while hiking, there’s a good chance you’ve bumped into either roe or red - both are common and native to Wales. The male and female of the larger red deer are known as stags and hinds respectively, the smaller roe are bucks and does. Your supplier probably won’t correct you, but it’s useful to sound like you know what you’re talking about! And generally speaking, smaller deer such as roe have a more delicate flavour. Red deer stags are seasonal from early August to the end of April, while Roebuck season runs from April to the end of October. Both red hinds and roe doe are seasonal from November to the end of March. For steak lovers, the best cuts of venison make beautiful medium-rare dishes, and pair perfectly with cranberries, mushrooms, celeriac, and a French red either for cooking or sipping!

You’ll also find a delicious selection of Welsh venison sausages in season, but banger fans might also want to swap out their regular porc for something a bit wilder.

Camarthen’s Red Valley Farm won Hybu Cig Cymru’s ‘Put Your Best Sausage Forward’ award last year for their wild boar and apple bangers. It’s not just sausages, either. Welsh wild boar makes a nutty, sweet, and flavourful alternative in any traditional porc dish.

Where can you find it?

You’ve no doubt got your game menu all planned out by now. So, where to buy? If you happen to be in the north, why not pay Pennant Valley Game - and

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Izzy’s Butchers - a visit? “Game shooting,” says the Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant based traditional butcher, “has huge benefits in rural areas not only for the conservation efforts of estates but also boosting the local economy.” And numerous studies agree, citing a boon to the UK’s economy upward of £2billion a year. The benefits of game aren’t just financial, but environmental. Game is a decidedly low carbon choice. Game animals thrive in the Welsh countryside, foraging for food, and causing minimal impact on the environment. Best of all, the game industry supports the conservation efforts and trade of local Welsh producers and businesses - something you can take part in just by making your home menu healthier, exciting, and more delicious. Pennant Valley’s own range includes wild Welsh fallow venison, oven ready partridge, and pheasants, locally sourced from North Powys’ Llechweddygarth Estate. You can even order online at wildwelshmeat.co.uk Located in picturesque Corwen, the renowned, 12,500 acre Rhug estate offers award winning produce from their organic farm and eatery. The estate boasts a Net Zero award for its use of solar, wind, and hydro power to ensure sustainability and a minimal carbon footprint, and a farm free of artificial sprays and fertilisers. Shortlisted for this years’ Game Butcher of the Year Award in the Eat Game Awards, they offer a range of game, as well as Ballancourt’s range of duck, venison, and pheasant pâtés.

For those closer to the capital, P&R Hopkins High Class Butchers & Deli offers an extensive and quality range of specialist meats, including wild welsh venison, partridge, pheasant, and duck. Pontypool’s Trealy Farm Charcuterie, who use Wales’ award winning Halen Môn Anglesey Sea Salt in all their Salamis, have won multiple awards themselves, including British Cured Meat Awards for their smoked duck breast and wild boar and red wine salami. They also offer venison and pork salami, wild boar pancetta, and juniper cured wild venison carpaccio. Further west, Haverfordwest’s Prendergast Butchers offer locally reared Pembrokeshire rabbits, as well as a selection of other seasonal game, and even feature mouth-watering recipes at their website, specially picked to complement their Farm Assured Welsh livestock.

This is just to name but a handful of Wales’ top suppliers, but if you’re after more, the 2022/23 Welsh Game Guide is freely available online. And if you’d rather try some new dishes before diving right into cooking your own, the guide has a list of fifty restaurants that specialise in delicious game dishes, from pubs to fine dining, from venison steaks to creamy gamebird curries.

But isn’t game difficult to prepare?

Don’t let myths about game being tricky to cook scare you off from getting it on the table yourself.

While it might be true of hunting a wily grouse, the actual cooking couldn’t be simpler. Game is not only sustainable, delicious, healthy, versatile, and directly supportive of Welsh businesses - it’s just as easy to prepare as any other meat. This is especially true if you follow a few simple preparation steps, depending on the season.

As we’ve mentioned, venison mince or a ready to roast partridge make ideal starting points, as does pheasant breast - there’s a reason pheasant is the most popular gamebird, after all! As a general rule of thumb, there are two approaches to cooking delicious game. Young or early season game shines when it’s cooked fast on a high heat, such as a medium-rare venison loin steak.

You’ll get the best results out of older or late season game cooked slow and low, like a hearty venison mince pie, or a warming pheasant cawl.

In terms of cuts, venison backstrap - or loin - makes for terrific medallion steaks, sliced thin for grilling or pan-searing. Once you’re feeling a bit more confident, diced and aged loin also works for a delicious tartare.

The lean shoulder suits slow cooking well, and the rear leg and rump offer perfect cuts for roasting. Try pairing with a fruit like cranberry sauce or blackberry to complement the rich, dark meat.

With pheasant, there’s no better place to start than the breast. It’s an incredibly versatile cut that can be marinated with your favourite seasonings in just an hour, or even overnight. Garlic, thyme, rosemary, pepper, and lemon can all work wonders with this remarkable bird, without interfering with the naturally mild flavour of the pheasant itself. As a lean meat, adding a fat like butter, or even wrapping in bacon, can help ensure a tender end result.

A ready to roast partridge is a simple and exciting addition to any Sunday dinner, with redcurrant gravy, red cabbage, and seasonal root vegetables. As with pheasant, some butter, lard, or bacon is perfect for keeping the meat tender. Wild boar is seasonal all year round, and boar bacon, burgers, and sausages make simple swaps for their porc and beef counterparts. For a longer cook, try seasoning wild boar with honey, parsley, time, garlic, and pepper, and braising long and slow for a hearty winter warmer. And with the days already getting shorter, what better time to take those first tentative steps into the wild, wonderful world of Welsh game?

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Figgy Pheasant Traybake With red onion, thyme and black olives Serves 4 Prep time: 20 minutes + 2 hrs marinade Cook time: 40 minutes

Ingredients • • • • • • • •

4 pheasant breasts 1 whole garlic bulb 3 tbsp sherry vinegar 8 sprigs of thyme 2 red onions 6 fresh figs 12 black olives, halved and stoned 3 tbsp Blodyn Aur rapeseed oil

Method Marinade 1. Marinate the pheasant by crushing two cloves of garlic and mixing with a tablespoon of vinegar and the leaves from a few sprigs of thyme. Season the breasts with salt and pepper and leave in the marinade for a few hours or overnight.

To cook 2. Heat the oven to 200°C/400°F Gas 6 (180°C fan) and put the remaining garlic clove, whole in their skin, in a large, deep oven tray. Peel and cut the onions into 8 wedges and add the garlic then cut the figs in half and add to the tin with the remaining thyme.

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3.

Pour over the oil and toss the vegetables and figs with your hands then season with salt and pepper and drizzle over the remaining vinegar and any marinade then roast for 20 minutes.

4.

Heat a frying pan over a high heat and quickly brown the marinated pheasant breast on both sides and transfer to the over tray after the onions have roasted for 20 minutes and scatter over the olives.

Roast for a further 15-20 minutes until the breasts have cooked.

To Serve 5. Remove from the onion and serve straight from the tray with some crispy potatoes and a green salad.

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This is Food and Drink.

This is Wales.

This is proper food: made with skill and care, by people who love what they do, in a beautiful place.

Real food, real drink, real Wales.

gov.wales/foodanddrinkwales

f T

FoodDrinkWales @FoodDrinkWales

Food_Drink_Wales

Reaching for The prestigious Great Taste awards has showered accolades on more Welsh food and drink products than ever before. Here, we tour the nation to check in on the winners and savour their success.

From the mountains to the sea, Wales has long been known as a land abundant with beautiful food. And in today’s food scene - with its focus on artisanship, sustainability and provenance - the nation is showing it can compete with the best in the world in terms of quality and taste.

With support from the Welsh Government, Welsh food firms have flourished in their communities, as well as on a national and global scale. Nothing could demonstrate this more clearly than this year’s bestever crop of Great Taste award-winners, with the nation taking home a record number of wins across the one-, two- and three-star categories. Great Taste is the world’s largest and most trusted food and drink accreditation scheme and being awarded stars is a highly respected seal of approval of these wonderful Welsh products.

Congratulating the winning producers, Welsh Government Minister for Rural Affairs and North Wales, and Trefnydd, Lesley Griffiths, said: “A huge congratulations to all of our Welsh companies on their achievements in this year’s Awards.

Lesley Griffiths

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“We have some of the best food and drink products in

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the world and it is great to see the commitment and hard work of businesses being recognised by the judges from the much respected Guild of Fine Food.

“I would encourage people in Wales as well as visitors to support our Welsh food and drink businesses and try some of their fantastic products.”

And, as the need for financial belt-tightening dominates the agenda, buying these bites of Wales’ brilliance will provide the small taste of luxury needed to see the nation through difficult times, while also ensuring that its burgeoning food scene can continue to thrive.

Join us here on a tour of our beautiful country, dropping in on this year’s two- and three-star winners in their communities, from cottage kitchen jammakers to national butter brands, to celebrate their lip-smacking success.

Mid-Wales It’s the mountainous heart of Wales known for its verdant beauty, but did you know that it’s also famous

Black Mountain Smokery

the stars for ground-breaking entrepreneurship? Newtown claims to be the birth of the mail-order retail business in the 19th century after entrepreneur Pryce Jones started despatching goods direct to people in Europe.

Now the town is proving that it is still just as ambitious, as well as being the nation’s juicy centre: a raft of small preserve companies from the region carried off prizes this year.

At the top of the pile is Newtown’s Hilltop Honey (lovehilltop.com). Its Spanish Orange Blossom stocked in Holland & Barrett - claimed two stars.

But the firm can also claim strength and depth in its products’ quality; 10 other kinds of honey from the maker were awarded one star, including its Spanish Lavender Honey, Bulgarian Coriander Honey and Manuka Honey.

Also in Newtown is Radnor Preserves (www.radnorpreserves.com). It carried off one-star awards for its hand-made, locally sourced and worldclass St Clement’s and Seville Orange Marmalades, while Black Mountains Preserves (www.blackmountainspreserves.com), based near Brecon, also grabbed one star for its Damson and Orange Extra Jam and its Asian Butternut Achar. All these winning jams are available from their makers’ websites.

Fruit isn’t the region’s only winning offering. Black Mountain Smokery (www.smoked-foods.co.uk) claimed one star for its Smoked Sea Bass Fillet and its Traditionally Smoked Trout Fillets, as did Monty’s Brewery (www.montysbrewery.co.uk) in Montgomery for its Magnitude ale, and the March Hare Bakery

(themarchharebakery.co.uk) in Llanbrynmair for its Green Apple and Fennel Martini Macaroons.

South Wales

March Hare Bakery

Further south the sweet success continues. At the foot of the beautiful Wye valley in Chepstow is the Preservation Society (thepreservationsociety.co.uk), founded by a farmer’s daughter, who grew up making preserves with her mum and grandmothers. Don’t be fooled by the traditional overtures, though. Her winning offering for 2022 was the sweet and spicy Candied Jalapenos, which claimed two stars. Brilliant on burgers, they are made with 60% chillies and are sure to give life some flavour.

Abergavenny’s Apple County Cider (www.applecountycider.co.uk) in Monmouthshire Wales’ cider county of fertile red earth nestled between the Brecon Beacons National Park and Wye Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty - claimed two stars for its Dabinett Medium Dry Cider. Made from 100% bitter-sharp Browns apples, this tangy, crisp and clean drop is a fine testament to the region’s applegrowing pedigree. Buy it on the website or pick it up from Whitehouse Farm Shop.

The brew could be enjoyed alongside some two-star Abergavenny lamb. In particular, Black Welsh Lamb’s (www.blackwelshlamb.com) pasture-fed, organic shoulder of mutton. Raised on the edge of the Black Mountains, its lambs are fed only natural grass and hay, maturing at their own pace for meat that is tender and low fat with a complex flavour.

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Black Welsh Lamb

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More marvellous Welsh lamb can be found at NS James Family Butchers - the oldest family butcher in Wales (www.nsjames.co.uk) in Raglan, whose Welsh Lamb Chump Chop carried off two stars. The village boasts a two-star brew, too. The Untapped Brewing Company’s (www.untappedbrew.com) Ember is an old-style ale with baked chocolate biscuit notes, followed by flavourful yet balanced hop and malt textures. Buy it online or visit the brewery for pickup.

The Wye Valley Meadery (www.wyevalleymeadery.co.uk) continues the region’s drinks pedigree. The small, family-run company founded by two brothers and now based in Caldicot grabbed two stars for its Traditional Mead and a bumper three stars for its Hive Mind: Big Smoke Smoked Honey Porter, a dark and smoky smooth porter, which oozes with honey notes. Get it online or visit the Caldicot taproom to try their delicious drinks alongside a pizza.

Iona’s Kitchen

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Caerphilly’s Castle Dairies (www.castledairies.co.uk) is one of Wales’ biggest food success stories, supplying its beautiful butter to the UK’s retail giants. This year its Welsh Butter with Halen Môn Sea Salt Crystals made with 100% Welsh cream and Anglesey natural sea salt crystals - was awarded two stars. Find it in Marks & Spencer and Tesco.

In Bedwas is Williams Brothers Cider’s (williamsbrotherscider.com), whose two-star winning, hand-crafted Biffyn Sweet Sparkling Bottled Cider continues the area’s winning streak. Its soft tannins and fruity taste will truly tickle the taste buds.

It can be bought nearby at Well Drawn Brewing in Caerphilly, as well as Pop ‘n’ Hops in Cardiff and other outlets in Wales.

Three-star glory was also claimed by Tintern’s Parva Spices (www.parva-spices.co.uk). Its unforgettable Sambal Hijau combines fresh cooling mint, aromatic coriander and warm green chillies to make a delicious sauce that is a perfect pairing for Welsh lamb. It’s available from Brockweir and Hewelsfield Village Shop and Cafe in Chepstow, and Cardiff ’s Pen y Lan Pantry and Wally’s Delicatessen.

Cardiff ’s Llandaff North is home to Al Ponte Deli, where you can buy Chilli of the Valley’s (www.ChilliOTV.co.uk), two-star-winning Picca Chilli, a cheeky relish with a tickle of heat from habanero chillies. Run by Arwel and Dan Reed, a father and son team from Merthyr who share a passion for spice, Chilli of the Valley uses locally sourced ingredients to bring their love of all things hot and spicy to food lovers everywhere. Picca Chilli is also available on their website.

The spicy vibes continue in Newport’s pretty Belle Vue Park, where you can try Tasty Bites’s three-star worthy - and truly delicious - Curried Goat Pattis at Iona’s Kitchen at Belle Vue Tea Rooms (www.facebook.com/thewelshjamaican). Heading to the Gwent valleys, Bargoed is home to family-run specialist desserts business Terry’s Patisserie (www.terryspatisserie.co.uk ). Its delightful Blackcurrent Delice claimed two stars, with judges saying it was ‘sublime in every way’. It can be bought at the Novice Kitchen (www.thenovicekitchen.com) in London.

Along the A40 in Llandow, in the Vale of Glamorgan, is Sloane Home (www.sloanehome.co.uk), an award-winning gifts and hamper company. Two of its delightful gins, Lone Stag Raspberry and Rosebud Infusion - made with freshly picked local farm-grown raspberries and organic rose otto - and Lone Star Strawberry and Mint Spirit Infusion - with fresh-fromfield farm strawberries, hand-picked wild mint and a pinch of black pepper - claimed two stars. As well as being stocked by the National Trust, they can also be purchased from the company’s website.

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Based in Windy Corner near Swansea is Good For You Ferments (www.goodforyouferments.com), run by duo Aoife and Jon, who, after searching for ways to preserve their gluts of home-grown vegetables, discovered lacto-fermentation - an ancient way of preservation using salt. Their Sea Green, a naturally fermented, unpasteurised sauerkraut, tastes of the sea, with cabbage, kale, seaweed, spirulina and ginger, was deemed two-star worthy. It can be found at Swansea Market, as well as other outlets in the region, and on their website.

Selwyn’s Seafoods (selwynsseafoods.com) has been part of the Swansea’s food landscape for years, with more than five decades of history selling seafood through the South Wales Valley. Its two-star winning Cooked Cockles are hand-gathered in Penclawdd for an authentic taste of the city by the sea’s long history with this special seafood. Grab some on Selwyn’s website or make a day of it by visiting Selwyn’s Seafood shack and visitors centre on the picture-perfect shores of the North Gower Peninsula estuary.

Over in Burry Port is local coffee bean roasting company Whitford Coffee Company (www.thewhitfordcoffeecompany.co.uk), whose two-star winning Y Draig Goch - a Penderyn Whisky Single Malt-infused coffee - is available as ground coffee or beans to deliver a smoky, sweet and smooth drink. Get it on their website and enjoy a beautiful brew.

West Wales They say west is best, and that’s certainly true for sunny days out. And Mario’s Luxury Dairy Ice Cream (www.mariosicecream.com) is a feature of many of those days across Wales. Based in Cross Hands, the three stars awarded to its very grown-up Espresso Martini Ice Cream is a testament to the firm’s inventiveness and ambition. It also claimed one star for

its cookie dough and clotted-cream vanilla ice creams.

Dunbia (dunbia.com) is a huge company with a base in Cross Hands, and its Welsh Hill Lamb Eye of Loin grabbed two stars.

Coaltown Coffee (www.coaltowncoffee.co.uk) is a brand that’s been busy putting its name on the map over the past few years. The Ammanford-based company’s Union blend - its first designed for filter brewing, delivering a clean, medium-bodied and perfectly balanced cup - won two stars. The company’s on-site The Roastery features a hip espresso bar and shop where coffee lovers can indulge themselves – but the blends are also up for grabs on Coaltown’s website.

Seidr y Mynydd (www.seidrymynydd.cymru), a cider company based in Kidwelly, also claimed two stars for its delicious medium-sweet, whole-juice Premium Cider, which is widely available online.

A little further west there are more two-star worthy sweet treats to discover. Dryslwyn, near Carmarthen, is home to honey company Gwenyn Gruffydd (www.gwenyngruffydd.co.uk), where it produces Welsh Heather Honey - gathered from across the Welsh uplands and featuring a unique dark amber colour and jelly-like consistency (available on the website). Mabel George in Narberth claimed the same honours for its delicious Stem Ginger Fudge, which can be bought in Wisebuys, Narberth.

The presence of the Atlantic Coast looms large among the winners as we head further west. In Kilgetty, Still Wild’s (stillwilddrinks.com) Coastal Gin - a dry, savoury spirit, with notes of foraged seaweed, rock samphire, gorse, thyme, sea buckthorn and bitter orange - took away two stars (available on website). In Haverfordwest, Atlantic Edge Oysters’s (www.atlanticedgeoysters.co.uk) Pembrokeshire Rock Oysters - grown on the Atlantic Edge where the

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Local seafood heroes

Mandy Walters is on a mission to increase the amount of locally caught fish and seafood bought and eaten in Wales.

With her husband Len and son Aaron, Mandy runs awardwinning seafood company Cardigan Bay Fish from the picturesque village of St Dogmaels on the banks of the River Teifi.

A trained mechanic, Len turned his hand to sea fishing 27 years ago and has been joined by Aaron who studied at the fishing industry college in Whitby, North Yorkshire.

Cardigan Bay Fish

In addition to fishing for crab and lobster, the father and son team are keen to preserve the heritage way of fishing and also hold special licences to fish the River Teifi, which is famous for its sewin (sea trout) and salmon. Len has a coracle licence – using the traditional Welsh boat to land his catch – while Aaron has a seine net licence which allows him to use a traditional dragnet.

Pembrokeshire Lamb Ltd

company is leading the way in restorative aquaculture also grabbed two stars.

The taste of the sea also helped Pembrokeshire Sea Salt Co (www.pembrokeshireseasalt.co.uk) - based in Dinas - crown its Sea Salt with Saffron (available on the website) with three stars. Its honeyed smoky aroma of saffron is ideal for adding glamour and depth to fish and rice dishes, and even creamy desserts (available on website).

Havefordwest’s Pembrokeshire Lamb Ltd (www.pembrokeshirelamb.co.uk) claimed two stars for its Hogget Leg. The business, which delivers lamb, hogget and mutton boxes direct to door also won an amazing three stars for its rich and delicious Hogget mince.

Head north along the coast from Haverfordwest to find two more small businesses offering products with big flavour - and two-star seals of approval. Pointz Castle Ice Cream (www.pointzcastle.com), near Solva, won acclaim for its Pembrokeshire Honey Gelato, while in historic St Davids – Wales’ smallest city and the resting place of our national saint - Old Farmhouse Brewery’s (www.oldfarmhousebrewery.co.uk) Cwrw Clôs, is a twist on a classic bitter and a testament to the company’s Welsh farming roots and featuring honey from its own hives. It is widely available across the region and from the website, so there’s no reason not to raise a glass to St David.

St Dogmels’ Cardigan Bay Fish (www.cardiganbayfish.co.uk) heads back to the fruits of the sea for its winning produce; its Dressed Crab carried off two stars. But in the rest of Ceredigion, it was the fruits of the land that shone to claim two-star glory. In Newcastle Emlyn, there’s Ceri Valley Orchards’s (www.welshcraft.co.uk) winning Welshcraft Cider Vinegar, while, in Llandysul, cheese and honey took the prizes: Caws Teifi Cheese in

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Ffostrasol (www.teificheese.com) claimed two stars for its Teifi Organic Halloumi and Teifi Mature cheeses (widely available) and would be beautifully partnered with Cardigan Bay Honey’s (www.cardiganbayhoney.co.uk) two-star winning Summer Wildflower Honey.

Crwst (www.crwst.cymru) - an artisan bakery and cafe in Cardigan - claimed double two-star honours for its Aber Falls Whisky Salted Caramel, a silky, smooth and boozy sweet treat, and for its Welsh Honey Butter (available on website).

Just outside the town, in the hamlet of Tanygroes, lies another winner – but not just any winner: it’s champion of champions Bay Coffee Roasters (www.baycoffeeroasters.com). The company prides itself on its west Wales location, where it roasts its coffee using electricity sourced from a 100% traceable renewable energy supplier. Caring for the environment clearly doesn’t distract from quality as its Indonesian Sumatran Fairtrade Organic Coffee won a magnificent three stars as well as the Great Taste Golden Fork trophy for Wales – the top accolade which crowns it Wales’ most exceptional food and drink product of the year. Judges during the blind tasting praised it as having “gentle, sweet, spicy flavours which dance around the mouth and then come together in a balanced harmony that finishes with a sweet, slightly fermented linger.”

Devil’s Bridge - in the heart of the Cambrian Mountains, 12 miles from Aberystwyth - has a somewhat spooky reputation. The nearby Devil’s Bridge Falls is a world-famous tourist spot where, according to legend, the original bridge earned its name because the devil appeared and promised to build a bridge in exchange for the soul of the first living thing to cross it. So it’s good to know the village has a sweet side with Sarah Bunton Chocolates’s

Bev’s Been Baking

Rhug Estate’s (www.sarahbunton.co.uk) two-star winning Orange Fudge. Available in the village’s Y Caban and online, it’s made with candied orange peel for a wonderful fresh flavour. Devilishly good.

North Wales North Wales has no shortage of quality produce, and this year’s winners have an emphasis on traditional Welsh fare. Dolwen Welsh Lamb and Beef (www.dolwenlambandbeef.co.uk), an organic farm near the beautiful village of Llanarmon DC, near Llangollen, started selling its meat directly to consumers in boxes three years ago. Its PGI Welsh rack of lamb claimed two stars, as did the Welsh Beef Steak Burgers from Conwy’s Edwards (www.weareedwards.co.uk), which can be found in Aldi, Asda, Tesco and Sainsbury’s, among other retailers.

More two-star honoured beef can be found in Holyhead in the form of Anglesey Fine Foods’s (angleseyfinefoods.co.uk) Black Label Wing Rib of Beef. Also on Anglesey is Dylan’s Restaurant (www.dylansrestaurant.co.uk), which claimed two stars for its leek oil (available on the website).

Welsh lamb claimed another two-star success in the form of Rhug Estate’s (www.rhug.co.uk) Organic Lamb Chops. The 2,500 acres estate, near Corwen, extends from Gwyddelwern in the north, Carrog to the east, Cynwyd to the south and Maerdy to the west and is an organic farm producing meat. But it has much more to offer beyond meat - there’s a farm shop, the Michelin-recognised bistro, accommodation and even a range of toiletries. Perfect for mixing beautiful food with a brilliant day out.

North Wales also seems to have a talent for sweet treats. In Caernarfon, there’s Glaslyn Ice’s

(www.glaslynices.co.uk) two-star winning Halen Mon Salted Caramel ice cream. Family-run Glaslyn is the oldest Ice Cream Parlour and Pizzeria in Snowdonia National Park, named after the river that flows through the legendary village of Beddgelert, where the grave of medieval Welsh Prince Llewelyn’s faithful hound, Gelert, can be found. The prince killed the hound in error, thinking it had killed his child. Pick up a treat from the parlour to enjoy on a wander to the site of Gelert’s grave to be immersed in Welsh legend.

And there are lots of fruity success stories in the region in the form of two-star winning jams. Abergele, on the north Wales coast, is where Celtalan of Conwy (www.celtalan.co.uk) makes its delicious, artisan and two-star winning Seedless Raspberry Jelly using traditional methods in small batches in a cottage kitchen. Welsh Speciality Foods (www.wsf.uk) in Rhyl carried off accolades for its Welsh Breakfast Marmalade, which is stocked by the Co-operative Group, while, in Wrexham, another cottage business, Bev’s Been Baking (bevsbeenbaking.co.uk), claimed stars for its Raspberry and Morello Cherry Jam.

Dolwen Welsh Lamb and Beef

Two honey companies in the region also triumphed with two-star awards. Black Mountain Honey (www.blackmountainhoney.co.uk) based in Nercwys, near Mold, won with its Hot Fire Honey (available on the website) - made with Welsh chillies - while family bee-farming company Hedgerow Honey (Hedgerow-honey.co.uk), in Penyffordd, near Mold, won with its Soft Set Honey (available online).

Back in Wrexham, there’s an award-winning way to whet the whistle at the end of a long and tasty journey around Wales. Magic Dragon Brewing’s (www.magicdragonbrewing.co.uk) Eyton Gold - a well-rounded, golden easy-drinking ale - was also deemed worthy of two stars and would make a perfect tipple with which to raise a glass to Wales’ awardwinning produce. Iechyd da!

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The Final Touch So, the Christmas dinner’s planned and stockings are full, but how about that final little something for extra sparkle? Nic Reuben has a few suggestions from some of Wales’ finest artisan producers.

Tipples A stone’s throw from the Welsh Marches border, Montgomery’s Monty’s brewery is a family owned independent specialising in contemporary ales, which have won numerous awards, including 2020’s Insider Made in Wales for food and drink. Made with cinnamon and citrus, their Figgy Pud Christmas Ale is a malty, sweet, and spicy winter treat. (£33.50 from montysbrewery.co.uk) They also offer a range of gluten free beers, including a hoppy wheat free IPA. When you’re ready to move on to the stronger stuff, you won’t go far wrong with Aber Falls Single Malt Welsh Whiskey (£28.00 from aberfallsdistillery.com) Named after the Abergwyngregyn waterfall, at the foot of which sits the distillery, this award-winning spirit has notes of vanilla, candied citrus, and cloves.

Aber Falls also offers a spicy gingerbread gin, but for something less sweet, you’ll want to try Dà Mhìle Organic Seaweed Gin (£23.00/35cl from damhile. co.uk). Family owned since 1981, Glynhynod Farm - which houses the organic Dà Mhìle distillery - is also the home of Caws Teifi raw milk cheese. This herby, fresh organic seaweed gin is a Great Taste 2019 award winner. For spiced rum lovers, look no further than Devil’s Bridge Spiced Rum (£39.00 from shop. devilsbridgerum.com), infused with Bara Brith. For vodka aficionados there’s In The Welsh Wind’s new kid on the block, Three Grain Vodka. Smooth enough to savour neat, great with your favourite mixer or cocktail and made using Welsh grains, what’s not to like? (£40 from inthewelshwind.co.uk).

Once you’re ready to move on from dry martinis to cheese and biscuits, there’s no better accompaniment than port or a lovely mulled wine. Celteg Mulled Elderberry Wine (£10.95 from celticwines.co.uk) comes with its own spice bag for simmering, and Celteg Welsh Elderport (£12.50/25cl from celticwines. co.uk) is rich with blackberries, brandy, and of course, elderberries. This full bodied port is the perfect pairing with a cheeseboard, packed with wonderful Welsh cheeses.

Cheese Talking of which, there’s nothing more reliable than a good cheddar - strong or mild - and Dragon Cheese has some beautiful options. Our favourite is their Vintage Cheddar & Leek (£2.25/180g from dragonwales.co.uk). Like all their everyday cheeses, it’s made from Welsh milk from local cows, and matured at their Llŷn Peninsula creamery. For something a bit more special, try their Welsh Slate Cavern Aged Cheddar (£3.50/200g), aged in the Llanfair caverns.

Family owned Caws Cenarth is home to Golden Cenarth, previously awarded Supreme Champion place at the British Cheese Awards. All milk for their wonderful selection is sourced from within 30 miles of the Fferm Glyneithinog dairy. For a rich and creamy addition to any cheeseboard, try their Cenarth Brie (£6.70/200g from welshcheesecompany.co.uk). With nutty tones and hints of fresh mushrooms and butter, this velvety, gooey cheese is a mild but flavourful delight.

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Located in Clynderwen, Pembrokeshire, Pant Mawr’s farmhouse cheese is the product of decades of selftaught cheesemaking know-how. All their milk is locally produced, and all their cheeses use vegetarian rennet. Their dedication to cheese is hard to question, as evidenced by the word CAWS spelled out in 20 foot trees, planted as part of a dedication to stay carbon friendly. For a smoky, flavorful addition to your cheeseboard, try their Oak Smoked Cerwyn (£6.20 from welshcheesecompany.co.uk), cold smoked with wood from sustainable forests, and gold award winner at the World Cheese Awards.

Recently featured on Gordon Ramsey: Uncharted Showdown, Snowdonia Cheese Companies’ renowned range of award winning cheeses deserve a spot on any holiday spread. Their range of mature cheddars is no slouch, but for something a bit different this winter, we’d recommend their Truffle Trove extra mature (£6.15/150g from welshcheesecompany.co.uk). A new addition to their range, this tangy, earthy cheddar is made with black summer truffles.

Snacks and Sundries But what’s cheese without a few biscuits to go with it?

There’s really only one option here: Cradoc’s Savoury Biscuits offer an incredible selection of crackers, baked with real vegetables, herbs, and spices, and sourced locally from their home base at the foot of the Brecon Beacons. It’s hard to pick just one from their range, which includes Szechuan Peppercorn, Fennel and Red Onion, and Leek and Caerphilly Cheese. But we’d go for their delicious Beetroot and Garlic (£2.99 from cradocssavourybiscuits.co.uk). They’re vegan friendly, too!

Right then, that’s cheese and biscuits sorted. How about some chutney? Try Calon Lan’s small batchmade sauces and preserves (from £3.20 from blasarfwyd.com), especially their traditional Welsh onion marmalade (£3.99 from blasarfwyd.com) and Welsh cranberry sauce (£3.29 from blasarfwyd.com).

For the laver lovers, why not add some Welshman’s Caviar seaweed, handpicked from the coast by the Pembrokeshire Beach Food Company (£4.75 from beachfood.co.uk).

From our Farm’s original gourmet biltong (£5.89/70g from fromourfarm.co.uk) is made from grass-fed beef raised on their Pembrokeshire farm. The family owned farm has been run by the George’s for over 100 years, with their award winning biltong inspired by a trip to South Africa, where this cured, protein rich, and delicious dried meat snack originates. Their original recipe is seasoned with garlic, coriander, and black pepper, although spice lovers might want to try their habanero or even ghost chilli offerings.

Based near the Brecon Beacons, family run Black Mountains’ smokery offers the beautiful Black Mountains Oak Smoked Salmon (£45.00/750g from smoked-foods.co.uk). The Great Taste Awards have heaped stars on this gorgeous, dry-cured salmon year after year, and it’s easy to see why. Their smoking recipe uses Welsh Oak shavings from Cadw or local furniture makers, never commercial wood chips or pellets.

Or maybe you fancy some pigs in blankets? Black Mountains also offer Charcuterie Cooking Sausages (£6.50/250g from smoked-foods.co.uk) and Dry Cured Free Range Bacon (£6.95 /250g from smoked-foods.co.uk)

Sweets and Cakes No holiday hamper would be complete without some sweet seasonal treats, so why not start with Blas ar Fywd’s artisan Mince pies (£4.35/4 from blasarfwyd. com), and some Popty Bakery Traditional Bara Brith Fruit Cake (£3.75 from jonesogymru.co.uk). Or, for something more traditional, this Christmas Pudding Selection (£19.95 from celticwines.co.uk) laced with elderport and apricot brandy.

For sweet and salty lovers, Halen Mon Sea-Kissed Vanilla Fudge (£4.05 from halenmon.com) elevates its natural buttery flavour with hints of their world famous sea salt. For vegans and non-vegans alike, Coco Pzazz offers a range of chocolate delights from their base in mid-Wales, sourcing exploitation-free cocoa from all over the world. Try their vegan Salty Spiced Orange Giant Dark Chocolate Buttons (£3.95 from cocopzazz.co.uk), made with 70% and Welsh spiced salt sprinkle.

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Have yourselves a Caroline Sarll takes us on a mouth-watering and inspirational veggiefoods-for-Christmas tour that will have even the most ardent meat eaters considering a change.

A vegetarian Christmas lunch used to be a bit of a turkey. In the Seventies, when I embraced the lacto-life, without fabulously fluffy falafels or succulent sausages (plant-based, natch), our go-to was a quiche or nut roast. I soon dubbed the former “qwitch”, as it had already cast its spell over our family fare, appearing in two alternating forms (tomato or mushroom) at least twice a week. Its appearance on the 25th was a bit like receiving your baggiest pants as a gift: too familiar and yes, somewhat lacking allure. The roast was an even harder nut to crack (ouch, but more to come). Think crunching ten cream crackers all at once. Drier than a donkey’s tail (the animal, not the plant), it was like chewing Trump’s bleach-desiccated thatch. There was clearly work to be done.

Half a century later, new and exciting vegetarian options are literally sprouting (sorry) up across Wales.

We flesh-foregoers - an estimated 1 in 20 in the UK - can now savour a veritable feast of inventive Welsh produce. In doing my research, think Great Dane drool or Tigger-infused triumph: every internet click yielded a mouth-watering veggie treat, like I’d won the legume lottery. And, here’s the rub: this is award-winning nosh which surpasses basic fare, is locally sourced and ticks the gourmet box. No longer must we be grateful for a poorly-seasoned, powdery lentil loaf.

For a round-up, pour yourself a Penderyn and indulge in a two-stop, shop-while-you-flop at www.blasarfwyd. com and www.discoverdelicious.wales . These hubs illustrate just how far we have come, the latter offering a handy region-specific hunt. If you’d rather not buy online, Blas founder, the encyclopaedic Deiniol ap Dafydd, has this top tip: ask your local shop to order in what you want! Think niche and artisan, not pile ‘em-high produce.

Starters For your starter, head to Ruthin (virtually or in person) and tuck into the Patchwork Traditional Food Co’s patés – Stilton and pear or red pesto. The former may well be a pairing as predictable as nylons and athlete’s foot, but, holy guacamole, this fork-hugging blend is opulently divine. Whilst not condoning the violenceagainst-veg trend (bashed beetroot - seriously?), Do Goodly Dips do a super smashed pea guac. For a seasonal red-green riot, slather these pastes on Cradoc’s pale puce, “blushing” beetroot and garlic crackers. Perfect. Our homemade offering is grilled Teifi Organic Halloumi strips dunked indelicately (sleeves up!) in a creamy pea and garden-mint puree.

What a lot of peas. Sweet.

Mains and sides For ‘jazz-hands’ mains, the pioneering Parsnipship is in pole position, flying the flag for infinitely more-ish and -hoorah! - moist, mouth-pampering heat ‘n’ go vegan and vegetarian dishes. I first tasted their Glamorgan Crumble, when founders Ben and Flo were just starting out in Ogmore Vale: my husband said I made the same noise our dog used to when I was stroking his tummy (the dog’s, not my husband’s). The GC is a cheesy leek muffin-moulded wodge, which hollers happy in just one bite.

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very Veggie Christmas..

The Parsnipship’s mushroom and peanut roast is also a welcome antidote to those early incarnations.

With whole nuts and hydrating mushy-rooms (remember, they are roughly 90% water), this screams juvenescent and juicy. Bye bye 70s sawdust. Hello Claudia Winkleman’s hair and Angelina Jolie’s lips in a panibois. The best endorsement came from my husband, an inveterate and incurable carnivore, who would no sooner turn veggie than wear matching socks (don’t ask). His characteristically laconic, but on-point response: “I’d eat that”. To bake your own, try Cardiffborn Avant-Garde Vegan Gaz Oakley’s recipe.

Our Caroline’s Kitchen (c’est moi!) offering is a caramelised onion, beetroot and goats cheese tart.

We use Pant ys Gawn, which is so bucolically creamy and silky-soft, I can feel the goat’s udder tickling my tummy as it goes down. Lavishly crumble Snowdonia’s incomparable, hallowed-in-this-house, garlicky Green Thunder over the beet to keep the Christmas-colourscombo.

There is such an abundance of top-quality Welsh cheese that, whilst I appreciate vegan values, I simply can’t cut the caws: hard, soft, creamy, stinky, grated or grilled, it all makes me shiver like a baby weeing in the bath. Try Caws Cenarth’s creamy, sweet apricot with “a distinct bang of brandy”. The Welsh Cheese Company is a perfect portal. Or, if you’re already one of the 1.5 % (and rising) UK vegans, Nutchi, the nutbased alternative is a revelation. It’s not as dense as the mammalian stuff, but, hey, with its well-chosen and potentially anti-inflammatory herby hits (e.g turmeric), this is an appealing casein-free contender.

Vegetable-wise, drizzle, no, ladle liberally with Halen Mon’s Black Garlic ketchup. This bitumenblack, aged garlic OMG-unguent is infernally good.

With Pembrokeshire Earlies the only veg with PGI status (Protected Geographically aka pukka Welsh provenance), my spud choice for that Yule hue (skins on), would be roasted, oil-saturated Blas Y Tir’s reds, which replace the sadly defunct, seasonally-named Rudolph. Lightly stir fry sprouts with fresh ginger and soy sauce. Roasted parsnip and honey mash is a must.

When sourcing veg, lap up the local, either allotment or garden-grown or by chatting with your greengrocers (if pre-packed, ensure it’s Welsh flag stamped).

Otherwise, www.growninwales, showcases many producers, such as Blaencamel Organic Farm, Watson and Pratts, Hootons Homegrown and the maverick Medwyns of Anglesey. Order Medwyn’s Sweet Candle carrot seeds for a gastronomic glow to Christmas 2023.

Puds For a trad dessert, thumbs up to Blas ar Fwyd’s stoutsoaked classic pud or Rebecca’s at Woodsend. Both family recipes, Rebecca’s tawny-toned option uses homegrown Bramley apples - a lingual-lingering citrus kick - and local carrots for added succulence and that coveted squidge. Blas’s is a mouth-pampering mahogany melange of the plumpest “vine fruit”.

Good-claggy, it’s that rare gastronomic oxymoron of dense and light. Serve with Dylan’s or Halen Mon’s salted caramel spread or Crwst Barti’s rum version.

Halen’s, smooth as a baby’s bottom, sings seaside and candyfloss, stopping thoughtfully short of sickly - a gustatory stimulant so potent, you’ll can-can round the kitchen.

For a chilled, homemade cheesecake, use dollops of pud, crumbling Caerphilly with cream cheese and lashings of whipped cream on a goaty base (ginger and oats!). If dried fruit is your downfall (Christmas-coloncauldron), try Cardigan Bay’s ambrosial, sumptuous, hedonism-in-one bite brownies, warmed, then doused with Frank’s in-most-supermarkets ice-cream or Ty Tanglwyst’s cream. Yum. For the only Welsh-produced clotted cream, Daffodil Foods’ indulgence will have you “fluttering and dancing” in the tum. Poetry in a pot. Order in their hampers or individually from Blas. Savour with Coaltown’s coffee : their Black Gold, nominally redolent of our miners’ toil is a triumph.

Their Deep Winter is evocative of cosy, hearthside bliss. Tickety-boo. Nadolig Llysieuol Llawen.

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Mistletoe and Cywain With Christmas round the corner, what will you be looking for to fill the stockings this year? Will you be looking for something special to add to the dinner table?

Or maybe a new tipple for the festive celebrations?

It’s the stuff of cold sweats and sleepless nights.

But help is on hand. Wales has always been referred to as the Land of Song, with its rolling hills, quaint villages and passionate, warm and welcoming population. Another offering that this small but mighty land has is its produce, and what better way to celebrate this year than to explore and support local Welsh food and drink producers?

A great first stop to discovering new Welsh produce is without doubt Cywain, with it’s stable of artisan producers, listed on an easy to navigate map of Wales on their website www. menterabusnes.cymru/cywain/ en/our-producers. With everything from seafood to confectionary, gifts and exquisite tipples to baked goods you’re bound to find plenty of options for your Christmas shopping list.

But Cywain’s role in Wales’ food and drink community goes a lot deeper than just providing a handy list of amazing artisan producers. Cywain is a Welsh Government-funded food and drink project which has worked tirelessly over the last decade to truly advocate for Welsh producers and their craft. Offering business support in all areas from marketing, branding, collaboration via the clusters, test trading opportunities at local and international events and so much more.

Indeed, in the past four years alone, Cywain have offered their support to over 1,000 Welsh food and drink producers from all corners of the country and so from Welsh preserves, craft ales and wines, to fresh Welsh seafood and honey, there is something for everyone on Cywain’s map and directory of local producers. Just pop over to the website to find out more!

As well as supporting food and drink producers from all across Wales, Cywain is also championing a series of research commissioned by the Welsh Government, to better understand how you as consumers feel about Welsh produce. Named “The Value of Welshness”, the aim of this research is to explore our behaviours and feelings when shopping, and what the overarching feeling is in terms of seeing Welsh produce on the shelves, be it as locals but also as guests to Wales and the UK as a whole.

Having that consistent representation and exposure for their clients in the Welsh Food and Drink sector is something Cywain feels very strongly about, which is why this research is seen as vital for the future of the industry in Wales. As part of Cywain’s work with its clients, it is seen as imperative that they are made aware of anything concerning this research. Sharing findings and insights from the research ensures that all producers will continue to thrive and grow with a deeper understanding of consumer behaviour.

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Despite the unprecedented challenges faced by us all across the nation, it has recently been reported that the food and drink manufacturing sector in Wales has continued to grow, with turnover increasing by 10.2% from £4.9bn to £5.4bn in 2021.

It should come as no surprise then, that Cywain’s support in the sector over the past 4 years has significantly contributed to this success, with recent statistics showing that over the past 4 years Cywain has contributed to 243 additional people being added to the Welsh Food and Drink Producer workforce, with 83 of these being Welsh speakers.

Every small to medium businesses regard entering new markets and gaining new customers as a consistent business goal, and Cywain notes these as one of the project’s key objectives. From an initial 2018 target of reaching 500 new markets by 2022, Cywain have successfully surpassed this, with a total of 590 businesses having noted new markets as outputs.

Trends show e-commerce as being a tour de force of these, with 130 businesses listing their produce on their own or other websites. The hospitality sector is also showing high numbers (hotels, bars, cafes and restaurants) with 95 businesses noting these places as new markets for them.

and webinars throughout the year, inviting guest speakers to consult with and share insights with clients on various topics such as strategy and planning, marketing, preparing for awards and more. A target was set for Cywain to provide 300 workshops by 2022, though looking at figures today, the project has reached their target threefold, and have seen clients attend over 900 workshops to better their business.

Wales is a proud nation, and as we approach a new year, Cywain is proud to be continuing to support the Welsh food and drink industry to reach new highs. We can almost draw a parallel and say that, similar to Wales’ football team heading to the World Cup, collaboration is key, and we will always be #StrongerTogether.

Every business, whether starting-up or scaling-up, has so much to learn, with marketing channels and the economic landscape constantly evolving at a fast pace. With this in mind, Cywain develops workshops

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31 30/11/2022 14:21:39

Destination Carmarthenshire, Wales

Wales’s southwestern county of Carmarthenshire is known as ‘The Garden of Wales’, with sweeping valleys, the River Towy, and some of the darkest skies in the UK. It’s also known for being the home of Wales’s beloved poet, Dylan Thomas.

Horticulture and sustainability should be added to its long list of triumphs. The county’s burgeoning food scene is making strides, with eco-friendly eateries and foodie experiences based on the area’s strong farming and foraging traditions.

Here, coastal foraging turns Carmarthenshire’s beaches into dining rooms, locally grown grapes are the backdrop to Welsh vineyards, and farm shops are championing “natural wines” and traditionally baked breads. Feasts of lava seaweed and local cockles cooked over a biodegradable fire, low-carbon beef, and homemade bara brith are just a few recipes from Carmarthenshire’s diverse cookbook waiting for you.

Wright’s Food Emporium Perched on the edge of a B road running through the quiet village of Llanarthne is a 19th-century coaching inn, now known as the family-run, award-winning Wright’s Food Emporium.

Inside, you’ll find rustic décor, and a relaxed atmosphere that’s formulated around an informal layout and crackling fires. Their shop has baskets of locally produced fruits and vegetables, along with shelves of natural wines, homemade breads, cakes, and unique condiments like tomato catsup.

Owners Simon and Maryann Wright champion seasonality and locality, which is reflected in the revolving menu and the meats sold at the deli. The popular pork belly Cubano is served with local Myrddin Heritage ham and Hafod cheddar, while the meat plate contains charcuterie native-breed sausages.

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Both of these wash down nicely with a Bluestone Preseli Pils lager or local Jin Talog gin.

Vegan options include the likes of Crown Prince Squash ginger and coconut soup, while vegetarian dishes feature the Blaencamel Farm cherry tomato, pesto and pickled ewes’ cheese salad.

The Warren Low-carbon, local beef burgers topped with organic cheddar, fresh tomato, pickled red onions, and streaky bacon are waiting for you at The Warren. It’s a multiaward winning, crowd-funded café-restaurant in Carmarthen, Carmarthenshire’s ancient capital.

The eatery is aptly named considering its higgledypiggledy floorplan, and this unpretentiousness is carried through their sustainably driven menu which gets its supplies from local producers – or directly, in the cases of the salads and herbs that they grow. The lentil moussaka with seasonal greens, or the organic Hazelwell Farm beef goulash, epitomise the area’s best produce.

Brown’s Hotel In the estuary village of Laugharne – dubbed by Dylan Thomas as the “strangest town in Wales” – is Brown’s Hotel. While the poet lived here, Brown’s was his favourite watering hole, and the establishment clings to this heritage by displaying photographs of Dylan.

While the hotel’s main farm-to-fork restaurant,

Dining

Moryd, Mansion House

Jabajak Vineyard

Dexters, is closed until late November, guests can dine in the bar. The pub, with its cosy nooks has works by local artists, and is beloved by locals, Dylan fanatics and coastline hikers.

The temporary evening menu includes the likes of parmesan and herb crusted salmon with tartare sauce and local delicacies like Welsh Rarebit which comes with a cauliflower steak and caper and raisin dressing.

Moryd, Mansion House Llansteffan Moryd, a two-AA-Rosette restaurant, sits within a Georgian manor house overlooking the Towy Estuary and Carmarthen Bay. Its premier location captured the hearts of Wendy and David Beaney, who lovingly revamped the hotel and named the restaurant Moryd – Welsh for estuary – after its local surroundings.

The award-winning head chef, Paul Owen, is likewise inspired by the region, crafting Market and à la carte menus brimming with local ingredients. Scrumptious dishes such as the house beef burger champion Welsh produce and highlight how the Welsh PGI-status beef comes from a family-run butchers in St Clears.

Their seafood hails from Milford Haven, their fresh eggs from Llanybri, and their ales are brewed in Carmarthenshire!

Jabajak Vineyard As our host proudly declared, the ethos of Jabajak Vineyard and Restaurant is to ‘enter as strangers, leave as friends’; and the intimate space and relaxed décor lends itself to this. Guests can’t help but bond over their shared love of the wine that lines the walls.

The Landsker Bar greets guests, upon arrival, with an extensive selection of Jabajak’s White House wines, along with lager, spirits, ales and soft drinks sourced from Wales. The vineyard tours go in-depth into the special kind of cool-climate grapes that grow in this part of Wales, along with a lesson on the

establishment’s connection with President John Adams and THE White House.

The Smithy Restaurant likewise focuses on fresh and locally sourced or foraged ingredients, with a menu catering to all dietary needs. For example, the lamb hails from the Preseli Hills, while many of the fruits, vegetables, herbs, leaves, and edible flowers are plucked from their own kitchen garden. The pea and asparagus risotto served with fried kale is the epitome of homegrown deliciousness!

Cwmcerrig Farm Shop Cwmcerrig Farm Shop is owned by the Watkins family, who have been farming the land since the 1950s. The award-winning store sells homemade sausages, and Texel lamb and Hereford beef that are reared and cut on-site to ensure quality. The deli is stocked with local cheeses and cooked meats, homemade pies, and Welsh favourites like rissoles.

The restaurant serves home-cooked meals, and the scrumptious Sunday lunch offers a choice of four meats, along with a generous helping of vegetables, stuffing, and homemade Yorkshire puddings and gravy.

Cwmcerrig Farm Shop

Coastal Foraging with Craig Evans Meet Craig Evans, a forager with a passion for sea life and marine conservation, and his canine companion Llew, at Carmarthen Bay (or in Pembrokeshire) for a day of coastal foraging. From a young age, Craig has been sourcing wild foods such as tickle trout, wimberries, and mushrooms.

As you explore the beach, Craig teaches how to find sustainable ingredients, from crabs and cockles to razor clams and lava seaweed – an essential ingredient for making Welsh lava bread. The day ends with cooking your finds over a handmade solva stove (Swedish candle), where Craig adds flourishes like rose petals to your coastal supper.

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Coastal Foraging

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The magazine that celebrates food and drink in Wales

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The magazine from CAW for Craft Butchers, Bakers and Chefs

Winter 2022

President’s Welcome Welcome to Craft Food Artisan, the culmination of a long held ambition of the Culinary Association of Wales - to deliver a magazine for our membership and stakeholders. The content of the magazine will feature our members, their establishments, our sponsors, our news, your news, networking opportunities and competitions.

Craft Food Artisan is available in hard copy but also as a digital copy that can be easily shared, however, if you are like me, on occasions I prefer something physical to read and I believe that this is one of those publications.

We plan to follow up Issue 1 with three publications per year. However, if we receive significant demand from our stakeholders, we would give serious consideration to four publications per year to follow the four seasons.

We will be looking for our stakeholders to contribute to the future editorial content under topics such as sponsor profile, sponsor interview, topical features, restaurant reviews, chef, butcher and baker profiles, to name but a few.

Cover: Thomas Herbert, National Chef of Wales 2022

Most importantly, we are seeking members and business partners that can support the Culinary Association of Wales in enabling us to achieve our

Contents

objectives which include, giving teams and individuals the opportunity to represent their country on the world stage in their given craft.

Many of you already support us in delivering the Welsh International Culinary Championships by providing expertise, great produce and high quality equipment that enables our competitors to deliver outstanding results both personally and collectively. We hope that this magazine will encourage even more to do so in the future.

We recognise that there is never an ideal time to launch, however, we firmly believe that we have the foundation to provide you with a platform to communicate with professionals who have a keen interest in our craft, (whether that be Butchers, Bakers or Chefs) and ultimately, provide our membership with a fascinating magazine. We hope you enjoy reading it, as much as we enjoyed creating it.

Arwyn Watkins OBE president@culinaryassociation.wales

News

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Digging for Treasure

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Howell’s That?

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Competition Time!

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Sign off with a Gem

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You’ve Cooked For Me Before

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What’s happening in hospitality and beyond?

Castell Howell is first at the crease to support CAW

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Feeding, and Saving, the Planet Sustainably hospitality in action

Game, Set and Match

Game’s a winner for hospitality says Will Oakley

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Pearls of wisdom from Kurt Fleming, CAW’s Treasurer

Danny Burke talks about the WICC Welsh International Culinary Championships 2023

Signatures and Gem 42 restaurant reviews

Graham Tinsley MBE on life as a chef, and meeting the Queen

Culinary Association of Wales National Committee: Arwyn Watkins OBE – President; Kurt Flemming - Financial Director; Graham Tinsley, MBE - Culinary Director; Colin Gray - Vice President & Chair of the Welsh International Culinary Championship (WICC); Vicky Watkins - Office Manager; Michael Bates - External Events Lead; Nick Davies - National Team Manager; Michael Evans - Junior Team Manager; Danny Burke - Junior Team Coach; Chris Bason - Education and Skills Lead; Gareth Johns - Chef ’s without Borders Ambassador; Donna Heath - National Sustainability Champion; Trish Bow - WICC Coordinator; Toby Beevers - Honorary Treasurer Craft Food Artisan (© Culinary Association of Wales) is published by the Culinary Association of Wales and produced by Conroy Media Ltd. Production team and contributors: Donna Heath, Rose Tuite, Katy Godsell, Paul Mulligan, James Meredith, Paul Spencer, Mike Lewis and Rachael Phillips.

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News CAW president praises Welsh award winners Culinary Association of Wales president Arwyn Watkins, OBE, has congratulated the Michelin star restaurants in Wales and the Welsh winners of the AA Hospitality Awards 2022.

Welsh chefs enjoy the experience of competing against the world’s best Two Welsh chefs enjoyed the experience of competing against the world’s best at the Worldchefs Congress and Expo in Abu Dhabi.

“We have very talented chefs working here in Wales and enterprising business owners who are investing in their establishments to ensure that their customers enjoy a top quality experience,” he said. “It’s important that we celebrate their achievements.”

Harry Paynter-Roberts, 24, sous chef at Carden Park Hotel and Spa, near Chester, finished sixth in the Global Young Chefs Challenge Final while Sam Griffiths, senior sous chef at the Chester Grosvenor, Chester, was 16th in the Global Chefs Challenge Final.

Gareth Ward at Ynyshir Restaurant & Rooms, near Machynlleth achieved his second Michelin star. Other Welsh restaurants to receive a Michelin star are: Walnut Tree, Llanddewi Skirrid; The Whitebrook, Whitebrook, near Monmouth; Beach House, Oxwich; Sosban & The Old Butchers, Menai Bridge; SY23, Aberystwyth and Home, Penarth.

They represented the Culinary Association of Wales whose culinary director, Graham Tinsley, MBE, executive head chef at Carden Park Hotel and Spa, said: “Whilst Harry has competed internationally with the Junior Culinary Team Wales in the past, it was Sam’s first time on the global stage and it was an eye opener for him.

At the AA Hospitality Awards 2022, The Grove, Narberth was awarded 5 Red Stars, won the Wine Award for Wales and Fernery Restaurant at The Grove was upgraded to four rosettes.

“It was a great opportunity for both of them to mix with chefs from around the world.”

Three rosettes: Coast Restaurant, Saundersfoot and The Jackdaw, Conwy. Two rosettes: The Checkers, Montgomery and The Oak Room at the Angel Hotel, Abergavenny.

Gareth Bale and his Wales teammates were not the only Welsh team fulfilling a dream by competing in a World Cup. Whilst the Wales football team competed at the FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022, chefs from Junior Culinary Team Wales were cooking up a storm at the Culinary World Cup in Luxembourg from November 26-30.

Chef Colin named Wales Food and Drink Champion of the Year

Junior Culinary Team Wales manager is Michael Evans, of Grwp Llandrillo Menai, Rhos-on-Sea and coach is Danny Burke, co-owner of Olive Tree Catering, Runcorn.

Colin, managing director of Capital Cuisine, Caerphilly, received the special judges’ award, sponsored by the Culinary Association of Wales (CAW), at the inaugural Wales Food and Drink Awards held in Cardiff.

The award recognises consistent sourcing, use and promotion of Welsh food and drink products over a period of time.

Capital Cuisine is an artisan food producer, manufacturing bespoke, restaurant quality products, whilst also catering for high profile events with contemporary menus using locally sourced, ethical produce.

“Sourcing, using and promoting quality Welsh food and drink products is something that I have done naturally within my business since our first event, Hay Festival, in 2003,” said Colin Keep your eye out for the call for nominations for Wales Food and Drink Awards 2023 in the coming weeks.

Chef Colin Gray receives award

Young Welsh chefs and Gareth Bale’s Wales team shared a World Cup dream

AA awards for Wales: Restaurant with Rooms, Crug Glâs Country House, Solva; Hotel of the Year, Llanerch Vineyard, Hensol and Restaurant of the Year, Gem 42, Newport.

Prominent Welsh chef Colin Gray was named the first Wales Food and Drink Champion of the Year at new awards.

Arwyn Watkins

Minister praises butchers after notable World Butchers’ Challenge debut

Harry Paynter-Roberts and Sam Griffiths

The Junior Culinary Team Wales

Lesley Griffiths, Minister for Rural Affairs and North Wales, has praised Craft Butchery Team Wales members for their commitment and skills following their successful debut at the World Butchers’ Challenge in Sacramento, California.

Team member Ben Roberts, 30, from M. E. Evans Butchers, Overton-on-Dee, near Wrexham, finished third in the Champion Butcher Apprentice competition and the team finished sixth from 13 countries in the ‘Olympics of Meat’.

The Craft Butchery Team

Ms Griffiths said: “A huge congratulation to Ben and the team who should be rightly proud of their achievements representing Wales at the World Butchers’ Challenge.

Their dedication to the craft is clear and the experience of competing on a global stage will be invaluable for them going forward.”

Ben Roberts

www.culinaryassociation.wales

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Supplier Profile

Castell Howell At the heart of the Welsh hospitality sector

Edward Morgan Kath Jones

Castell Howell started life over thirty years ago selling predominantly frozen foods, as was the trend at the time, adding dry goods shortly afterwards. Since then, the Group has grown into a major distributor of food and drink in Wales, Borders and the West Country, offering support to hospitality, and is a major partner of the Culinary Association of Wales.

Edward Morgan, Group CSR Manager explained “fifteen years ago we added a finest range. Items which are commonplace now, yet we didn’t have them available to our customers. Artisan products such as cheeses, charcuterie, vinegars, balsamic dressings and a wider range of ingredients were introduced. It meant working with a different group of suppliers. So not only do we work with Unilever and Nestle and companies like Authentic, Sidoli and other larger ones in Wales, but we started to develop links with some of the more niche artisanal suppliers, many in Wales”.

Their catalogues now cover everything from vegan to gluten free to provenance, so customers can confidently state where their ingredients come from, much of it from Wales. They also have their ‘Celtic’ ranges of Welsh beef, fish, and preserves to name a few and can even supply molecular gastronomy products. As Edward explains “Our evolving range has lent itself well to supplying customers and the CAW’s culinary teams with all the types of products they need, especially at competition level”.

Castell Howell is keen to elaborate on its relationship with the Culinary Association, “Our involvement with Arwyn goes back years, either as a training provider through Cambrian Training, in his role as president of the Culinary Association and as a member for many years, or as a supplier.

We supply the teams and many of the culinary team members, including Capital Cuisine’s Colin Gray, who are also a key supplier of ours. And Mike Bates, CAW’s Events Lead, based upon the category. And we hope that they, and other members, would be advocates of ours, in the same way we are of them”.

Key to Castell Howell’s relationship with the hospitality sector are the twenty-five account managers and a team of specialist advisers on the road around Wales.

“They’ve all got their own areas of expertise, of course, but they take control of generic tasks such as opening accounts, menu pricing advice, suggesting products, fulfilment and credit terms.

“But it’s far more then than just saying to a chef or an owner or a general manager, here are products, what do you want to buy? You’re actually getting embedded in those businesses and helping them decide what would work best for them. We help with menu development. We’ve got two meat specialists

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who can advise customers on something a little bit different, a development chef steward who can help demonstrate different dishes or different projects with customers and we’ve also got a Welsh product specialist. So, whether it’s choosing products, creating dishes, designing menus or helping set prices we can use our experience and resources to help if that’s what the client wants”.

Corporate Social Responsibility is important to Castell Howell in terms of working with local communities, promoting and improving the food sector as a great place to work and looking across the supply chain at nutritional and environmental impacts.

Edward explains “As part of this, we sponsor a secondary school competition called Tasty Careers, where students design a dish for a menu for £21, to develop presentation skills, work in teams and hopefully, encourage them to work in the food sector, be it catering or working with us as a career partner.

It also includes our commitment to working with offenders at Swansea Prison to help give people a new start in life, a good win that’s still in its infancy”.

Another increasingly important aspect for CH is the environment and sustainability. “We’re working with a couple of key customers on trying to establish what a sustainably sourced menu looks like, using produce from farms that have had environmental impact statements, Root Zero potatoes, the Golden Hooves scheme and much more. That’s a bit of a job there because it’s not an accurate science and there’s so many different products and variables. We’re all trying to work this out and not over-promise but what we learn, we can pass on to all our customers. We’re also working with our supply chain and try to join up with them in terms of measuring their environmental impact and merging that with ours and have been measuring our impact and carbon footprint annually for a number of years, which appears in our accounts”.

“We’ve got so many suppliers and we try to check and order as best we can, but we also need to make sure that people are treated fairly across the supply chain”.

This extends to how staff are treated says Edward, “Amongst our clients, there’s quite a few working with our HR team on looking at the Living Wage Foundation and its recommendations.”

Edward wanted to finish with a final comment on CAW from Castell Howell’s Sales Director, Kath Jones.

“Castell Howell Foods have worked with the Culinary Team on numerous occasions, embracing their ethos and recognising their importance in helping to promote both Welsh produce and culinary skills. They are a collective who inspire future chefs and instil a ‘Sense of Place’, underlining Wales’s credentials as a food nation.”

Proud sponsors of the Home Nations Culinary Teams and the Culinary Association of Wales

www.culinaryassociation.wales

craft food artisan 5

Sustainable With more customers than ever before wanting planetfriendly ways to enjoy their leisure time, it’s vital that businesses react. Here we highlight just some of the ways that the hospitality sector is advancing the business and environmentally critical sustainability agenda.

The climate crisis is real. Sea levels are rising at an alarming rate, coral reefs are dying, forests are burning, and oceans are becoming more acidic, so things have to change. And one of the biggest challenges hospitality businesses face right now is ensuring that their business is socially responsible regarding the natural ecosystems that help keep our planet healthy.

Pale Hall

The Cambridge Institute for Sustainability Leadership states that tourism contributes about 5% towards global greenhouse gas emissions, and that figure is expected to grow by 130% by 2035, so the challenge to the hospitality trade isn’t an insignificant one.

Sustainable hospitality is no longer an optional, trendy thing to do, it is now a priority, and how businesses tackle the preservation of the environment is what drives customer decision-making.

According to the World Chefs Academy, there are eight key areas that hospitality businesses should consider: the big picture, seafood, energy management, water consumption, waste management, nutrition, agriculture and animal husbandry.

So, let’s start with the big picture. Because sustainability is such a huge concept, it can be overwhelming to think of ways to take positive action, especially for small businesses. But breaking it into individual elements takes the pressure off.

In 2019 the UK was the first major economy to commit to achieving net zero carbon emissions by 2050 to help prevent global warming from going beyond 1.5°C, which would have catastrophic consequences for the planet and its inhabitants.

Setting out an action plan is a good place to start.

All hospitality businesses, regardless of their size, should create a set of objectives and commit to being a company that is passionate about eco-conscious practices.

The hospitality industry has some of the highest outputs when it comes to carbon emissions.

Pale Hall in Gwynedd is a great example of this. They have been awarded a Michelin Green Star Award for their commitment to sustainable practices. They have a number of different approaches at the property, from providing their guests with EV charging points to how they source their food and even right down to their staff uniforms made using recycled plastic.

The Zero Carbon Forum is a non-competitive industry collaboration designed to help share best practice ideas, insight and leadership on reducing carbon emissions. Their research has found that a typical restaurant emits over 376 tonnes of carbon per year, the equivalent of heating 117 households in the UK. Around 35% of all UK carbon emissions come from the production and consumption of food and drink.

Bob Gordon, Director of the Zero Carbon Forum, said, “The sector and our governments must take greater responsibility...In hospitality, we are contending with interrupted food supply and increasing volatility in the market. Hospitality thrives when the operating environment is consistent and predictable. Without consistency, costs will continue to go through the roof, challenging the sectors’ existence.”

Hospitality businesses may have a lot to think about at the current time with the cost of energy and the

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shortage of labour crisis, but it’s important that businesses commit to doing better when it comes to environmental practices. With more customers than ever before being aware of the harmful impact of the hospitality industry on the environment, can they really afford not to change?

www.culinaryassociation.wales

Menu design is another area that can hugely impact sustainable practices within the hospitality industry.

When it comes to items on the menu such as seafood, a more mindful approach needs to be taken.

Overfishing and ocean pollution have been driving factors in the severe drop in numbers of fish in our sea.

Businesses could consider wild or farmed seafood that is harvested without harming the environment and therefore helping to ensure a healthy ocean eco system.

The same goes for animal husbandry and how we obtain meat and dairy. One idea is using local abattoirs which will reduce transportation, improve animal welfare and also support other local businesses.

Strengthening community ties is also hugely important

hospitality in increasing sustainability efforts. Collaborating with the community and other local businesses allows a better understanding of what your customers want and can help persuade other local businesses to implement more sustainable practices.

Food waste is no longer considered acceptable by those working in kitchens and those consuming the dishes. You can start by localising your supply chain and updating the menu on a seasonal basis. The farmto-table movement keeps food and transport costs down as well as being a customer favourite due to food tasting fresher.

Edmund Inkin who runs The Felin Fach Griffin in Brecon told us “When Huw (Evans-Bevan) and Charlie (my brother) set up the Griffin, the ethos was very much what we now call sustainability. But as the years go by, we must keep thinking about how we intensify that thinking: hospitality can’t help but impact resource usage, it does it by definition by encouraging travel and consumption. So we have a responsibility to find ways to mitigate that damage and promote the right way of doing things. Our kitchen garden is a really good example: it can’t possibly provide everything we need for a busy kitchen, but it helps develop the right kind of thinking within our teams, provides employment to local people and pushes the value of low food miles to our guests.”

Reducing portion size can also make a huge difference.

While supersized portions may have become the norm, serving smaller amounts of quality food will make immediate savings and reduce a lot of food waste per cover.

Whilst food waste in the hospitality industry is a hot topic, it goes much deeper. Businesses need to take a step beyond and think about eliminating items such as single-use plastics, which greatly contribute to environmental pollution.

With energy prices rising at a rapid rate some businesses will be left wondering if it’s time to turn out the lights for good. But evaluating current energy use and making small changes such as switching bulbs to energy-saving versions, ensuring appliances not in use are switched off at the end of the shift and not leaving lights or heating on when not in use can make a huge difference.

Taking your hospitality business green doesn’t have to be something you tackle alone. As mentioned earlier, organisations such as the Zero Carbon Forum have been designed to help steer the UK hospitality industry to a greener space. They can help determine your business’s carbon footprint and offer practical help

and support in implementing the strategies needed to reduce it.

The Welsh government has always championed sustainable practices in hospitality; they were the first to introduce a plastic bag tax and the Food and Drink Wales Sustainability Cluster, designed to support and develop sustainable business practices across the Welsh food industry. They are currently running various programs that will support any business wanting to start looking at the bigger picture and becoming more environmentally responsible.

Edmund Inkin

The Welsh Government is also offering a B-Corp accreditation grant for businesses until March 2023.

B-Corp is a private certification of for-profit companies of their social and environmental performance. This initiative will reimburse up to 100% of the fees for the first year.

For hospitality businesses that are eager to get started on their sustainable journey, the World Chefs have put together a free course, Sustainability Education for Culinary Professionals, which covers all the steps needed to think and act sustainably. The course is fully certified and your business employees could receive a Feed The Planet digital badge and certificate upon completion of the program which is great for their personal development For more info head to: feedtheplanet.worldchefs.org/sustainability Bringing in sustainability policies for your hospitality business isn’t just about big, grand gestures. It’s about a build-up of small steps that will help the way your business operates and do good in the wider world. It’s all about maximising the hospitality trade’s positives whilst reducing or eliminating the negatives. But for these sustainable initiatives to work, it needs to be an industry-wide effort to globally embrace changes and make where we live, work, and play a better place for all.

World Chefs Feed The Planet Students

www.culinaryassociation.wales

craft food artisan 7

Supplier Interview

Game Changer Disney’s Bambi has a lot to answer for, having helped keep venison, and game in general, off the menu for decades. But more people are now eating venison than ever before, and with good reason. That is the trenchant belief of Will Oakley, a former Shropshire game-keeper who has embarked on a personal crusade to reintroduce game to more British tables.

Will is founder of Shropshire-based Willo Game, who are based a mere stag’s leap over the Welsh border.

“A lot of our pheasant comes from Wales,” he reveals.

“So much of the local rural economy is propped up by game.”

Having founded Willo Game in the early 1990s, Will sold the company 15 years ago, only to buy it back in 2018 as part of a consortium.

“The demand for venison has never been higher simply because it ticks all the boxes. It’s healthy, sustainable and free-range – plus it’s cheaper than beef, so what’s not to like?”

“It is a decision I have never regretted,” says the 60-year-old father-of-three. “When I started there was a massive market for processed game, but nobody really wanted it ‘in-feather’ as it was viewed as something of a nuisance. That gave me all the incentive I needed and Willo Game has steadily grown as a business over the intervening years.”

Many within the food industry enjoy cooking game, especially if it is sourced from a family farm so they know the exact provenance of the animal.

“The field-to-table ingredients are just beautiful,” enthused one west Wales chef. “High quality, sustainable and ethical.”

Against that, many people still find the idea of game quite daunting, as it remains a relatively uncommon dish on our tables.

“We have got to get our heads around the fact that venison is the most healthy meat,” is Will’s patient response. “Plus it is killed in the most humane manner it can be and is now more readily available than ever before.”

“Yes, in the past people have been a little afraid of preparing game. They have to overcome this irrational fear of ruining it. But these days you can reference countless game recipes online. As far as venison is concerned just treat it like you would beef; but instead of having it well done go for medium.

“And as for cooking pheasant you simply treat it like a small chicken.”

Today the Norbury-based company also offers a wide selection of partridge, grouse, pigeon, rabbit and mallard (Will’s personal favourite). “There’s nothing quite like a good-quality bird,” he says. “You just cannot beat it.”

In the past, of course, connoisseurs of game had to beware of hidden hazards. Those relishing their game birds ran the risk of crunching into lead pellet whilst tucking into their favourite dish.

“The only problem is that they can contain shot,” says Will. “It wouldn’t matter whether it was lead or steel – no-one likes finding shot in their game. So, to counter-act this we’ve brought in the most up-to-date metal-detecting equipment in order to ensure our products are shot-free.”

A game-changer in every sense!

But there’s more...

“Several supermarkets are reporting that venison pies are replacing steak and kidney pies now,” Will gleefully recounts. “And the return of wild boar – we sell meat from the Forest of Dean – is another welcome development.”

Yet one suspects Will Oakley will not be truly satisfied until game is fully re-established as a traditional festive dish.

“When I was a kid, very little game was eaten at Christmas,” he said. “Now it’s more all-year round.

“People in this country could – and should – view game as an acceptable alternative.

“As all fresh game has to be sold by February 14, frozen game is becoming the new fresh.”

So remember: game, it appears, is for life – not just for Christmas…

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www.willogame.co.uk

www.culinaryassociation.wales

Recipes

Pan Roasted Venison, Braised Red cabbage, Celeriac Puree and Chocolate Jus.

By Chris Price, Hospitality Training Officer, Cambrian Training.

Method

As the weather changes and the nights grow longer, dinner party season is now upon us.

So why not impress your family and friends at your next get together with this luxurious recipe of Venison with a silky chocolate jus?

Venison 1. Season the venison on both sides with sea salt. In a heavy-based pan, melt the oil and bring to a medium heat.

2. Brown the venison for 2 minutes on each side to seal leaving a nice brown colour to the meat. Transfer the pan to the oven and cook for 5–7 minutes.

3. Remove from the pan and leave to rest in foil for 8–10 minutes

Ingredients Pan Roasted Venison • 700g of loin of venison • 3tbs Vegetable oil • Salt • Pepper Celeriac Puree • 1 celeriac, peeled and roughly diced • 250ml of double cream • 250ml of milk Braised red cabbage • 1 pinch of cloves • 2 star anise • 1 cinnamon stick • 450g of red cabbage, thinly sliced • 100ml orange juice and peel • 135g of redcurrant jelly • pepper • salt Chocolate Jus • Good quality jus or gravy • 40g 70% chocolate

Celeriac Puree 1. To make the celeriac purée, combine the milk and double cream in a saucepan and add the celeriac. Also season at this stage also. Cover with parchment paper.

2. Bring to the boil and simmer until the celeriac is soft. Allow to cool, then transfer to a blender and blitz until smooth. Taste and amend seasoning if needed.

Braised Red Cabbage 1. To make the red cabbage, tie the spices in a piece of muslin. Combine all the ingredients in a pan with the muslin-tied spices, cover and cook slowly for about 1 hour until tender. Check every so often to make sure that the pan is not too hot and burnt on the bottom. If you feel like you may need some water added then that’s fine. As the saying goes…You can always add but not take away.

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2.

Take the lid off and simmer until a thin syrup forms. Season with salt and pepper.

Keep warm with the spices

Chocolate Jus 1. Warm through your sauce on the stove, once hot add in some of the chocolate and stir until completely melted. Taste and add more if needed to make sure your happy with the consistency and flavour.

To serve: 1. To plate, spoon some of the red cabbage to one side of the plate, using a spoon drag and pull the puree to the opposite side. Slice the venison and serve on top of the cabbage then drizzle the sauce around.

Sprinkle with some chopped parsley or chives to garnish if needed.

The techniques and skills used in this recipe are taught to apprentices who are working towards an Apprenticeship Level 3 in Professional Cookery. It covers preparing game meat, as well as cooking & finishing of complex vegetable dishes & hot sauces. For more information about how we can help support your business or help you become an apprentice, please contact Cambrian Training Company on: 01938555893 or email: info@cambriantraining.com

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Chef profile

A culinary chat with Kurt Kurt Fleming is the treasurer of the Culinary Association of Wales (CAW) and is responsible for managing the budget, making sure funds are spent in the right direction and helping raise sponsorship to fund their activities and competitions.

We kicked off our conversation with Kurt explaining how, as Head Chef at The Angel Hotel, he’s currently helping to provide support and sustenance for Ukrainian refugees. A fact that ties in nicely with CAW “We’re active supporters of World Cooks Tour for Hunger. I know that Gareth John, our Cultural Ambassador has been to India, South Africa and places like that to help with local initiatives.”

Kurt has been involved with the CAW for over 20 years and is clearly proud of the Association’s achievements.

But cooking has always been his first love. “I started cooking when I was about 13 and got the bug sitting at the kitchen table with my mum, with a little stool and rolling pin”. At 16 he went straight to catering college and eventually arrived in Cardiff in 1991, subsequently working in some of south Wales’ most renowned eateries including the Miskin Manor, Llansantffraed Court and The Bell at Skenfrith. “The culinary scene in Wales was just amazing in those years. So it was just a really fun and exciting time to be in Wales”.

He was also Head Chef at Ffresh, the ground-breaking restaurant in the WMC, that championed Welsh products and dishes. “We sourced over 90% of our products in Wales and all our meat and fish was from Wales, our vegetable suppliers from Pembrokeshire and I developed a great relationship with Castell Howell”. After a couple more projects he arrived at The Angel, Cardiff ’s oldest hotel, seven years ago.

And parallel to this Kurt was drawn into what became the CAW. “I met a chef called Colin Gray, who ended up being my best man. He was trying to drum up support for the South Wales Chef ’s Guild as it was called then, so we organized some social events where I met Graham Tinsley and another culinary director, Peter Jackson, who was the team manager at the time, and the rest of the Welsh team which resulted in a competition tour to Scotland”.

Kurt’s keen to stress that the CAW has a social side “We’d organize trips to bowling or the races and then we’d go to each other’s restaurants and take it in turns to show what we could do. We’d also learn about Welsh food by visiting suppliers”. And they often

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shared advice and knowledge. “When you get lots of chefs together, there’s always good banter and sharing knowledge. What are you doing at the moment? How are you, how are you coping with the seasonal changes, etc.? It’s not just about competing, it’s about the camaraderie”.

Kurt’s biggest motivation was always the competitions though. “I went to exciting places - Luxembourg, Erfurt in Germany, Chicago, Japan. You to get to see different nations, what they’re doing, how they’re using ingredients, how they express themselves on the plate.

And you can take dishes back to your own kitchen and try and replicate them. Then you’re sharing ideas on a global stage”.

“Competing has definitely broadened my horizon, my ideals and thoughts on food.”. And it’s an experience he’s desperate to pass on. “I absolutely love it when there’s a young chef coming through - one of my sous chefs, Ryan, went away with the team and I gave him all the support that I possibly good. He entered Young World Chef and won – what a feeling. Just like winning it yourself.”

The CAW doesn’t just help chefs looking to develop, it’s helping the Welsh culinary scene more generally. In addition to chefs’ technical abilities it also showcases Welsh ingredients. “In the competitions that we put on in Wales, there are certain ingredients that you must use and showcase because we’re in Wales - God’s country. Lamb. Use that beef, use the seafood.”

For Kurt and his fellow CAW chefs, this passion for Welsh produce is clearly a major motivator on the international stage too. “Increasing the profile of Wales abroad is one of our remits. We want to showcase Welsh products in the best light and the international events are our window to the world”. An admirable ambition to end on. But Kurt has one more revelation.

The highpoint of his time in the CAW? Cooking for the PM? Or the Queen? Great but not numero uno. “Being a part of the team that won Wales’ first ever Gold Medal in the Culinary Olympics. There were tears of joy in the kitchen when the result came through – it was just amazing.”

WICC Welsh International Culinary Championships

Competitions

Pitting our future chefs against the best Danny Burke was in demand growing up as a footballmad youngster on the streets of Manchester’s Moss Side – as much for his culinary ability as his prowess on the pitch.

And far from tasting derision from his peers, the future leading Welsh chef who relished watching his nan cook a Sunday lunchtime roast as much as a Saturday morning kickabout, drew his first appreciative customers.

“The other kids knew that when I went back home with a football under my arm I’d come out with a plate of fairy cakes,” Danny, now a 45-year-old dad-of-two living on Deeside, laughingly recalls.

“So, yes, I was ‘Mr Popular’ – I became known as the kid with the football AND the cakes!”

Danny – whose business Olive Tree Catering is regarded as one of the best across Cheshire – continues to remain ‘match-fit’ to combat the stresses and strains of his profession.

“I took up boxing training at Buckley ABC two years ago,” he revealed. “My fitness has gone through the roof.

“There’s nothing quite like whacking a heavy bag for an hour after a punishing and occasionally frustrating shift in the kitchen!”

Danny will be one of the judges at the WICC Welsh International Culinary Championships at Llandrillo College, Colwyn Bay, from February 22-24, 2023.

The event, which is broadcast live and open to the public, includes waiter competitions, the Welsh Chef of the Year and Junior Chef of Wales competitions, plus Marston’s Welsh Chef of the Year for the first time.

Winners can go on to further glory in national and international competitions such as the Young National Chef of the Year.

As a one-time Junior and Senior Chef of Wales champion Danny views the events as ‘a potentially life-changing experience’ for those taking part before banks of eager spectators.

“Competitions of this calibre tend to take you out of your comfort zone,” he told taste.blas. “You need to have your finger on the pulse.

“Competing in that type of environment makes you look at food trends so you’re not so blinkered when it comes to competing against chefs who may work in more established restaurants.”

Danny, who has competed for Wales for the past twenty years, also cites organisation as an essential ingredient for success.

“I’d recommend a month of planning and practising,” he said. “Don’t turn up on the day hoping for the best – there has to be a certain level of discipline.”

Colin Gray, chairman of judges and the former president of the Culinary Association of Wales, describes the event as an ‘invaluable’ training ground for the next generation of Welsh chefs.

“And not just Welsh chefs,” he points out. “We get a fair number from across the border who, like everyone else, find these events an intense learning and bonding experience.

“Apart from upskilling, they provide a showcase for future chefs – a large proportion of whom are college students.

“The aim is not only to raise awareness of the Welsh food industry – it is also to enhance skills as competitors have to perform in a high-pressured setting.”

Danny Burke

Entrants will be judged on a number of hot and cold dishes by a panel of recognised food industry experts.

“Most dishes are tasted and scored accordingly,” said Colin, a former army chef who has represented Wales across the world for the last thirty years and now runs Capital Cuisine, a Cardiff-based catering and food manufacturing company.

“Chefs will be graded on presentation, innovation, skills and how they handle kitchen equipment.

“We’ve seen the Welsh food industry go from strength to strength in recent years.

“Years ago I’d probably have only recommended a small number of decent restaurants in Cardiff.

Colin Gray

“Times have changed – we’re absolutely spoilt for choice now!”

Entry forms are available at culinaryassociation.wales or from office@culinaryassociation.wales or via post to Ceri Nicholls, WICC/Cambrian Training, Tŷ Cambrian, Unit 10 Offas Dyke Business Park, Fisher Road, Buttington, Welshpool, SY21 8JF. All should be returned by Monday, January 31, 2023.

Members of the public can buy tickets to dine at the National Chef of Wales Final at culinaryassociation.wales

www.culinaryassociation.wales

craft food artisan 11

Restaurant Reviews

Signatures Restaurant, Aberconwy Signatures Restaurant is beautifully situated in a 5 star holiday resort, yards from the north Wales coast, an unusual spot to find an award-winning fine dining restaurant.

Owned by executive chef Jimmy Williams and his wife, Louise, Signatures has built up an excellent reputation since they took over in 2009 and boasts a listing in the Michelin Guide.

While chewing on some herby bread we studied the extensive menu and both of us homed in on the sesame coated sea bass as a starter.

It was served on a bed of coriander pappardelle in a ginger and chilli sauce and decorated with juicy mussels. Everything sounded like it would come together beautifully, and so it did. The smell from the plate alone made me smack my lips in anticipation.

With perfect crispy skin the fish was still firm enough to the fork and the pasta light and appetising.

In a nutshell totally moreish. There were similar compliments from the other side of the table.

From the mains section I chose the lamb trio of roasted cannon, a sticky rib and a piece of shoulder. From our table I was able to watch the busy chefs prepare the dish carefully assembling its various components before calling service.

The slices of cannon, served just the right side of pink, needed just a slight nudge with a knife to cut.

The shoulder, encased in a crispy coating, had the consistency of pulled pork and was perfectly seasoned and cooked just right.

It was served with anna potato - thinly sliced, rectangular pieces cooked in melted butter and layered.

It was mouth wateringly delicious. The creamed cabbage and a quenelle of ponch maip completed the dish. The latter is Jimmy’s take on a traditional dish of mashed swede or turnip, mixed together with butter.

My mother would have called it stwnsh rwdan.

The other side of the table chose the Duo of Game, tender slices of duck breast served pink with a generous piece of venison encased in a tasty Wellington pastry. The venison was described as having a strong taste but did not overpower the duck which was also served pink and made for an excellent variation on a classic dish.

The dish was accompanied by sticky red cabbage, crispy kale and a red wine sauce. We also ordered a side dish of vegetables and tucked into a bowl of glazed parsnips, chunky carrots and runner beans. All were cooked perfectly cooked and the right accompaniment for the meat.

The staff were helpful, smiling and very pleasant and were happy to allow a satisfying gap between courses.

The Little Italy dessert on the menu was always going to appeal consisting of Ferrero Rocher semifreddo, a vanilla pannacotta and a mini tiramisu with an almond biscotti. The crunchy biscotti was used to scoop up the perfectly wobbly pannacotta along with spoonfuls of the coffee-flavoured dessert. Along with the light and fluffy semifreddo it was quickly devoured.

I ordered the Study of Peach, one of several chef ’s Signature Dishes. Pieces of warm roasted peach were dipped alternatively in a trifle, pannacotta and ice cream all including elements of the juicy fruit. It had spot-on consistency and abundant flavour.

There can be no argument that Signatures is a hidden gem.

Signatures Restaurant, Aberconwy Park, Conwy, LL32 8GA. Tel: 01492 583513; W: darwinescapes.co.uk/aberconwy-resort-spa/ facilities/signatures-restaurant

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www.culinaryassociation.wales

Gem 42, Newport, Gwent

Restaurant Reviews

In a modest building, in oft-overlooked Newport, is a restaurant that staggers and marvels its guests. Gem 42.

Not even the recent award of AA Welsh Restaurant of the Year had prepared us for the onslaught of culinary creativity, imagination and skill that patron, Sergio and his family team were about to unleash on us.

First off, they get the basics right. Service and staff knowledge are impeccable. Ingredients are all ‘top drawer’, being home-grown or local and seasonal if possible. Then Sergio works his magic, and delights before explaining personally to diners what it is they are experiencing.

First came hand-pulled fine Grissini, one liquorice, the other pepper and onion, served with roe and plankton and then two joyous lattice Snowdonia Cheddar lollipops, a hint to the playful artistry to come. All were divine.

Then they toyed with us, as a cat does a mouse, with a fun, thought-provoking and delicious selection of amuse bouche. Three different carefully chosen varieties of tomatoes, cooked three different ways, blended and reconstituted in a beguiling Bloody Mary cocktail jelly. An equally intense cauliflower amuse – cooked for 1000 minutes to trigger an enzyme process radically altering the taste. An essence of pea that transforms humble garden peas into something magnificent. The signature menu’s puffed pane carasau with two golden eggs, one of snail’s eggs, the other an umami bottarga (cured mullet roe) was a stand-out.

The lamb’s brain, laver-bread and chocolate mousse presented on a ceramic skull was mind-boggling and the octopus, sea urchin and black garlic emulsification on double textured potato crisp was meticulous. All accompanied by a 1961 Lombardia wine, the first of many wines expertly matched to each course.

This continues with the ‘three course’ mains. The signature’s comprised sweet, succulent lobster, roasted on charcoal, laid on Petits pois à la Française, served with bisque and a sambuca infused carrot puree.

Next up was Scallop and Egg 55/55/55 – an egg yolk weighing 55g with 55 calories, nestled inside a scallop, ultrasonically cooked at 55° and served with Monmouthshire truffle shavings, Oscietra caviar and a wasabi vinaigrette. A tour de force where sweet, sour, savoury, salty and umami wash across your palate in a single dish. By way of contrast, the perfect loin of Welsh lamb was simply cooked over lump wood, with Neapolitan Soffritto of lamb’s heart and kidney and salt baked beetroot and Jerusalem artichoke from their own greenhouse.

The vegetarian mains were just as impressive.

Inspired by Venetian blown glass, the blown honey and white balsamic vinegar sphere filled with foamed Abergavenny goats’ cheese with beetroot had a wonderful sweet tang not unlike old fashioned marmalade. The Pasta alla Norma’s interplay between

creamy salt-baked aubergine, saffron flavoured pasta, Pantelleria capers and San Marzano tomato was perfection. And the spectacle of herb broth distilled tableside poured over home-made porcini ravioli will live with us for many a year.

To finish was an oxidised unripe lemon – cooked for 8 hours, filled with buffalo curd and Brontes pistachios served with lemon granita shell transforming it into an ‘other-worldly’ flavour experience. A cheeky caramel crunch toothbrush and a delicious tube of chocolate orange toothpaste followed and then a refreshing shell-encased cactus leaf gelato. Finally, a playful sign off - some delightful shiny gems hiding chocolate and piquant pear. What a remarkable and mind-blowing experience.

Gem 42, 42 Bridge St, Newport NP20 4NY. Tel: 01633 287591 www.gem42.co.uk

www.culinaryassociation.wales

craft food artisan 13

Chef Q & A

Fast fire Q&A Graham Tinsley MBE, Culinary Director of CAW Executive Head Chef at Carden Park Hotel What is your role in the CAW? As Culinary Director, I look after the Teams, giving them advice and guidance in their competitions. My background with CAW has been Welsh National Team Captain and Welsh National Team Manager so I have a vast experience in competitions all over the World.

For instance, I have competed with the Welsh Team at 5 Culinary Olympics, 5 Culinary World Cups, 2 World Championships and 2 American Culinary Classics.

What Competitions are you involved in? And what are the rewards?

Our Junior Team fly out this week to the Culinary World Cup which will be held in Luxembourg. We are also planning to compete in the Global Chef heats in Rimini, Italy early next year with Junior and Senior members of the Culinary Association of Wales.

The best thing about being a member of CAW is the comradeship and the social activities meeting other likeminded chefs from all over the world. The CAW have made great bonds with other chef associations everywhere.

Was there a defining moment early on in your career that cemented your ambition to be a chef?

Securing a position in the kitchens of the Midland Hotel in Manchester after leaving school. The Midland was one of the top hotels in the country in the 70’s with a Michelin Star in their French Restaurant.

Would you say it’s important for ambitious and talented chefs to have a clear idea of what they want to achieve?

Of course, you need a goal in life, but it has to be realistic. Don’t aim for the sun when you can only reach the moon.

What, over your career, would you say are the most important lessons you’ve learnt?

Create a good team around you. They don’t have to be the best cooks in the world, but they need to be a team and all gel together.

You were awarded Disciple of Escoffier by the Council Culinaire – what does it mean to you personally?

Escoffier was one of the first chefs to start documenting recipes and formalize the structure of the kitchen and he’s regarded as the father of classical cuisine so it means a great deal to me and at the award evening I dedicated it to my old head chef Gilbert Lefevre.

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What other great chefs have influenced you?

Has to be the first head chefs I worked for, Gilbert Lefevre and Anton Mosimann. Gilbert came to the UK in the 1950’s and in his kitchen, I learnt how to cook Classical French Cuisine, the foundation for all cookery today. Whilst working in Switzerland, I heard of a new chef on the scene in London – Anton Mosimann. I knew that I had to work for him. Anton was completely different, his Modern approach to cooking and presenting food was nothing I had ever seen before. Anton was also a real gentleman in the kitchen and befriended all his young cooks, you just wanted to do your best for him.

Of all the people you’ve worked with and for, who would you say has been the most inspirational and why?

Without doubt, any one of my young chefs who has been practicing for a competition with their commitment to perfecting the perfect dish to ‘wow’ the judges.

How do you go about inspiring those around you?

Like everything in life, you have to lead by example.

Never get complacent, always keep learning and trying out new ideas.

What do you consider to be your proudest moments?

Has to be receiving my MBE from her Majesty the Queen in 2006. The Queen was well briefed by the Lord Chamberlain, and she said to me, “you’ve cooked for me before”, I replied “yes, your majesty on several occasions”. It was a day of mixed emotions - excitement and nerves all rolled into one.

What do you enjoy most – creating a menu, cooking, passing on your knowledge to young chefs or winning competitions?

In the early part of my career I enjoyed winning the medals myself, later on in my career I got a much greater sense of achievement when my young chefs won. No matter how many times you win, the sense of triumph for your young student overwhelms you.

What would you like your legacy to be?

That I was a good cook, mentor and a fair and inspirational boss.

What’s your favourite meal at home?

Vietnamese Pho, which is a one pot meal containing meat, fish, vegetables and noodles in an aromatic stock, great for sharing.

Proud to be supporting the food industry throughout Wales

Falch o gefnogi’r diwydiant bwyd ledled Cymru PIE & PASTY CO.

Luxury Welsh Dairy Ice Cream

01269 846080 | www.chfoods.co.uk

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craft food artisan 15

The perfect gifts With Christmas fast approaching, finding the perfect Christmas gifts for our nearest and dearest is top of the agenda. Well, we know you’ve been good, so we have put together a list of the best Welsh produce to give you some gifting inspiration.

Cold mornings and dark nights are firmly here in time for Christmas, which will find many of us grabbing for the nearest throw, jumper, coat or hat. In this department, Melin Tregwynt have you covered. The woollen mill boasts some of the best products on the market, and high on our list are their Vintage Star Classic Slippers. Originally designed to fit inside clogs, they are now the most iconic of slippers. With treated woollen felt soles to allow you to step outside, and fleece lined interiors to keep your feet toastie, they’re perfect for seeing you through the colder months. (£49.99. Find at store.melintregwynt.co.uk). Want something that will add a soft yet warming feel to your home? Melin Tregwynt’s signature woven Welsh woollen blankets are a subtle but uplifting addition, and come in a beautifully varied range of patterns and colours.

(From £161.00. Find at store.melintregwynt.co.uk).

Perhaps you’re looking for something a bit more decorative? Well Glosters, based in Porthmadog, Gwynedd, have you covered. With a range of beautiful ceramic mugs, pots, kitchenware and more, there’s something for everyone. We recommend taking a look at their range of jugs, vases and crocks. Namely, their hand thrown vases. These beautifully handmade pieces are inspired by vintage ginger beer bottles, adding a touch of nostalgia and colour to any room. (£38.00.

Find at www.glosters.co.uk) Of course, the true way to anyone’s heart is through their stomach. For that reason, we have some tasty treats on our Christmas list for you and your loved ones to enjoy this festive season. And to kick things off, nothing says Christmas quite like cheese.

The Welsh Cheese Company have a magnificent range of cheese all year round, but at this time of year, they have some really special Christmas products that make the perfect gift (or treat for yourself). These range from a Giant Welsh Cheese Advent Calendar (£164.00), Festive Cheeseboard Selection (£42.60) or their Luxury Welsh Cheese Christmas Hamper (£88.00). (All found at welshcheesecompany.co.uk).

Fancy building your own gift hamper? Explore The Welsh Cheese Company’s wide range of traditional cheeses. We recommend the unique Celtic Promise, a raw-milk washed-rind cheese made by Caws Teifi on an organic family farm in the Teifi Valley, West Wales.

Delicate, buttery and unforgettable. (£9.80 from welshcheesecompany.co.uk).

www.taste-blas.co.uk

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Caws Teifi also have a wide range of cheese available direct from their family owned farm in Ceredigion and produce some of the finest artisan cheeses in the UK. Cheese can be for some much more than a cheese board, make it the main occasion! We recommend their Organic Halloumi, which is made twice a week ensuring its freshness. It’s great served grilled, baked or even barbecued (if you can cope standing out in the cold) and has won stars at the Great Taste Awards in 2019, ’20 and ’21. (£4.99 from www.teificheese.co.uk).

Now, we can’t talk about cheese without discussing the perfect pairing – wine. And we’re not talking about just any wine, how about we start with a show stopper of a gift. Celteg Gold Sparkle is a celebration in itself.

Made with real 23 carat gold, this deliciously floral elderflower wine is a true treat, especially with the added bling of gold flakes glistening in every glass. (£34.95 from celticwines.co.uk)

If wine doesn’t cut your mustard, then perhaps something stronger is more your pallet. For something unmistakably Welsh and definitely delicious, look no further than Aber Falls Whiskey. Their Single Malt is born out of the first whiskey distillery in North Wales for over 100 years, and boasts a rich, full bodied flavour with notes of vanilla, toffee and candied fruits. To make it a true occasion, why not opt for their special edition Glass Gift Box. (£40.00 from aberfallsdistillery.com).

‘In The Welsh Wind’ of Ceredigion also have their fair share of gift options to boast too. For a fun, eclectic gift for those who have varied taste, ‘In The Welsh Wind’s’ Eccentric Miniatures Collection is hard to beat.

Featuring Dewi Sant, Cardiff Dry and Pembrokeshire Pinky gins and Cardi Bay Vodka, this makes for a memorable gift in fun, unique packaging. It even comes with a signature Eccentric dog tag! (£20.00 from inthewelshwind.co.uk).

All of that cheese, wine, whiskey and gin (with a miniature of vodka for good measure) can be quite overwhelming. Sometimes, it’s a classic, warming tipple that does the trick. Morgan’s Brew Tea boasts a stunning range of traditional and flavoured teas to suit any occasion and season. Luckily for you festive shoppers, they also have a range of gift sets, delicately wrapped and presented just as gifts should be. Their Loose Tea and Biscuits Gift Bag include Welsh Oat biscuits, West African Black Tea and a Brecon Breakfast black tea blend. (From £10.99 at morgansbrewtea.co.uk)

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IT’S GOOD TO BE HOLM

Award Winning Dining

Holm House, Marine Parade, Penarth CF64 3BG 02920 706029 | reservations@holmhousehotel.co.uk

A Feast of WELSH foodies are set to indulge their appetites as a wide array of festivals look to build upon their longawaited returns in 2022. While some are long-established, others are new to the party, but what all have in common is an impressive range of the best quality food and drink by local producers – as the long list below shows.

So, whether you fancy indulging in the Mumbles Oyster Food and Drink Festival at Oystermouth Castle or taking a trip to Abergavenny to mingle with celebrity chefs and authors, the resurgence of the Welsh food festival circuit will fuel all tastes. And never before has the mantra ‘buy local’ been so apt.

To buy a steak from your local butcher or a selection of vegetables from your greengrocer does not just boost sustainability by cutting out ‘food miles’ - it also lends support to communities still reeling at the collateral damage inflicted by the pandemic and the inflationary pressures businesses are suffering now.

Which is why the role of the food festival is crucial.

For not only is it the ‘shop window’ for local producers to show their wares, but it can also promote those attractions unique to a particular area, be they the River Teifi’s renowned salmon or the famous Denbigh Plum.

So, what makes for a good food festival? Firstly, it should be inclusive, offering festival-goers as wide a range as possible, including vegan and vegetarian.

Secondly, it should have a theme visitors can identify with. For instance, this year’s Llandovery Sheep Festival, which is more than sheep, welcomed visitors into the world of Welsh myths and legends.

And lastly, a successful festival will offer a variety of musical entertainment to encourage spectators to indulge in food and drink.

The Welsh Government have been quick to recognise Wales’ reputation as something of a mecca for food festivals. Back in the summer Food & Drink Wales sponsored the National Geographic Traveller Food Festival in London.

Held over two days at The Business Design Centre it included the biggest names of the culinary world, showcasing flavours from all corners of the globe – and six Welsh companies, supported by the Welsh Government, were given the opportunity to network among the elite.

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Lesley Griffiths, Minister for Rural Affairs said: “We all know the quality of Welsh food and drink is up there with the very best in the world and food festivals are important in ensuring it is rightly recognised.”.

Despite the shadow cast by Covid, the Welsh food and drink manufacturing sector actually experienced very strong growth in 2021 with turnover increasing by 10.2 per cent from £4.9bn to £5.4bn. And earlier this year it emerged that exports hit a record high in 2021 reaching £640m.

The Welsh Government continues to help businesses through multiple support schemes providing market insight and intelligence, investment, technical support, export support and strong emphasis on business networking.

The Minister added: “The commitment and desire of Welsh food and drink businesses to succeed is clear to see, despite the tough economic situation they face.

Wales’ innovative spirit also continues to shine with Welsh businesses continuing to pick up awards.

“Welsh Government support is playing an important role in supporting the sector and we will continue to help businesses reach their full potential and thrive.”

The Government can only lead, of course, and ultimately the success of Welsh food festivals stands or falls on the support they receive from producers and consumers.

The majority of attendees and stallholders are based in Wales, according to Cardiff Bay research, so whether you’re a foodie, a responsible citizen or a producer of lovely artisan food and drink, remember that by supporting them you are supporting Welsh communities and the food and drink community here in Wales.

Next time you see a food festival advertised in your locality, grab a bag or a basket and set off to see what delights you can find. Or alternatively, plan ahead with our handy selection of some of the best from around Wales.

Festivals ABERGAVENNY FOOD FESTIVAL The Abergavenny Food Festival was founded by two local farmers in 1999 in the wake of the BSE crisis.

It has since developed an exceptional reputation as a place for chefs, food businesses, journalists, commentators, farmers and food producers to come together, exchange ideas and forge new partnerships.

In 2022 it moved to online advance booking only, in order to ensure the right footfall, give people plenty of space to navigate the six markets with 150 stalls, and enjoy the various events.

“There was overwhelmingly positive feedback from visitors and exhibitors,” said a member of the team.

“Both days were sold out with an overall attendance of approximately 20,000.”

As well as a rolling programme of chef demonstrations several new strands were introduced including a small producers’ market.

The ‘Local & Vocal’ tent provided an opportunity to meet people growing, producing, and selling food locally.

‘Meet the Author’ sessions in the town library gave visitors the chance to talk to headline guests with newly launched books.

Guests included Felicity Cloake, Santosh Shah, Thomasina Miers, Kate Humble and Jeremy Pang. (www.abergavennyfoodfestival.com)

COWBRIDGE FOOD FESTIVAL

Abergavenny Food Festival

Cowbridge Food and Drink Festival

The Cowbridge Food and Drink Festival returns on Sunday, May 28 and Monday, May 29, 2023, when this vibrant town will play host to around 10,000 visitors over the course of the two days.

There is much to do around Cowbridge over the weekend. Organisers boast that there is something to suit all diets, ages and interests!

“With over a hundred stalls to visit on our sites there is plenty of delicious food and drink on offer,” said the organisers.

“Hot food, chilled food to eat later, pickles, chutneys, sauces, baked goods and some lovely locally produced drinks.

“We will be doing food demos and also planning a welcome return to Drinks Talks in a local venue.

“The High Street and local businesses will all be involved too and with some free family activities there will be enough to keep the whole family busy.

“As always at our festival, there is an emphasis on locally-produced food and drink.”

A free park and ride system operates from Cowbridge Comprehensive School and Forage Farm. These sites are fully staffed by volunteers. (www.cowbridgefoodanddrink.org)

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AMGUEDDFA CYMRU FOOD FESTIVAL GWYL FWYD CAERNARFON

Gwyl Fwyd Caernarfon

The Amgueddfa Cymru Food Festival returned to St Fagans National Museum of History on September 1011 after two years of running digitally.

The event welcomed 23,561 visitors over the weekend.

There were a total of 58 food and drink traders, 56 of which were from Wales. The event supported six new food and drink producers and included two street food areas, two food market areas and a bar area with live music.

Organisers sought to showcase small, local and independent producers and food businesses from across Wales.

“The event this year had more vegetarian, vegan and free-from options available than ever, to promote healthier food options that can be enjoyed by all,” said a spokesperson.

“Sustainability was a big theme and we worked hard to reduce the environmental impact of the festival.” (museum.wales/whatson/food-festival)

LLANGOLLEN FOOD FESTIVAL Amgueddfa Cymru Food Festival

Llangollen Food Festival

The weather may have been a mixed bag, but on one almost-sunny Saturday in October Llangollen was filled with visitors on the hunt for great food at the annual festival.

With a focus on Welsh & local business, the event highlighted some of the finest food and drink producers the region has to offer. With over forty exhibitors spread across three locations in the town - Gales Wine Bar, the Town Hall and Llangollen Railway Station - more than 4,000 visitors sampled and purchased items from locally made blackcurrant chilli jam and Ma Baker’s famous sourdough bread to wine from Anglesey.

A representative explained “We wanted to create a buzz within the town, support local business and provide a platform that could celebrate Welsh food - and what a success it is”. (www.llangollenfoodfestival.com) Big Welsh Bite

All roads led to Caernarfon on May 14 when over 30,000 visitors enjoyed a unique setting in the shadow of the famous castle and along the town’s beautiful prom and marina.

The festival drew 132 stalls - most of them local to Gwynedd and north Wales.

Organisers decided against charging entry fees as part of ‘a strong commitment’ to ensure inclusivity. This wholly bilingual event included exhibitions by Hybu Cig Cymru and four entertainment stages featuring a mix of choirs and bands.

“Our festival has been compared to the National Eisteddfod for its food!” said a team member. “There was an emphasis on plastic-free, environmentally friendly policies, close co-operation with town businesses and hostelries, food-related activities for children and using public transport/cycling/walking.

“Our plans are already underway for May 13, 2023, with 85 stallholders already registered. We're hoping for more of the same!” (www.gwylfwydcaernarfon.cymru)

BIG WELSH BITE Set in the stunning grounds of Ynysangharad War Memorial Park, Pontypridd – also home to the National Lido of Wales, Lido Ponty – the Big Welsh Bite will make a welcome return to this memorable location on August 5-6, 2023.

The festival’s confident claim is that it is not just about food, with visitors also enjoying arena shows, cookery demonstrations, guest chefs and more. Suffice to say, there was an awful lot to chew on at this year’s event.

The arena hosted Savage Skills, Mountain Bike Stunt Team, Parkour demonstrations from AIM Academy as well as the Black Mountains Falconry Display Team.

And over in the live kitchen demonstration area, Big Welsh Bite resident chef Geoff Tookey was joined by TV chef Nerys Howell and – between the pair of them – proceeded to cook up a storm! (www.rctcbc.gov.uk/EN/Events/BigWelshBite/ BigWelshBite)

NARBERTH FOOD FESTIVAL Narberth Food Festival returned for the 22nd time this September with two days of family-friendly foodthemed entertainment at the top end of the high street of this charming west Wales town.

Based alongside the Town Moor, the site offered festival-goers the chance to explore Narberth’s bustling town centre with its notable array of award-winning independent, shops, restaurants and cafes.

A not-for-profit event run entirely by volunteers with the support of local businesses and organisations, the festival also includes passionate guest chefs, toetapping live music and entertainment, a bar and more.

An exciting line-up of chefs and food writers was among a veritable menu of delights this year, including festival patron Angela Gray and former Great British Bake-Off contestant Michelle Evans-Fecci. (www.narberthfoodfestival.com)

Narberth Food Festival

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WREXHAM FEAST Wrexham Feast is the new name for Wrexham’s Food & Drink Festival which transformed Waterworld Car Park in Wrexham city centre into a foodie’s fantasy over two days this September with a spicy mix of street food, bars, traders, funfair and live entertainment.

The action-packed weekend (September 25-26) featured spectacular cookery demos from local chefs, live music throughout the day and into the night, the best local and national food traders, local lager, a range of gins and superb coffee along with a varied choice of street food from all four corners of the world.

And if all that wasn’t enough to tickle the palate, the stunt riders of The Ken Fox Wall of Death staged a show that had to be seen to be believed! (www.wrexhamfeast.com)

Wrexham Feast

Portmeirion

GWYL FWYD PORTMEIRION Billed as ‘a showcase of the best local food, drinks, gifts and entertainment, Portmeirion village’s Food and Craft Fair returns on December 2-4 when this popular Christmas event will again feature artisan stalls exhibiting the best Welsh produce in Sir Clough William-Ellis’s celebrated Italianate village in north Wales.

In addition to local produce and crafts, organisers say they are laying on a full programme of entertainment to suit everybody’s taste.

With such attractions on offer why on earth did Patrick McGoohan spend so much time attempting to escape the village in cult TV 1960s classic The Prisoner?

So, join in the merriment, meet up with old friends and find the perfect present while you’re at it! (www.portmeirion.wales/visit/whats-on/food-andcraft-fair)

GWYL CROESO ABERTAWE Croeso is Swansea’s two-day festival celebrating all things Welsh that was held in the city centre of the ‘ugly, lovely town’ so beloved of Dylan Thomas in February of this year.

More than just a food festival, this year’s event featured the best of local Welsh culture including food and drink, cookery demonstrations, live music, poetry, street entertainers, workshops, arts and crafts, St David’s parade and children’s activities.

The city’s Castle Square proved a focal point of musical activities before the action shifted to Oxford Street where visitors had the opportunity to sample the best of Welsh food, drink, and handcrafted goods. (www.visitswanseabay.com/events/croeso)

Gwyl Croeso Abertawe

Lampeter Food Festival

MENAI FOOD FESTIVAL The Menai Food Festival, which has drawn thousands of people in the past, returned with a bang this August.

The festival – organised by the same company who stage the popular Beaumaris Food Festival – was held over two days on the recreation field and surrounding areas in Menai Bridge, Anglesey. (www.menaifoodfestival.com)

Menai Food Festival

DENBIGH & FLINT SHOW A show whose long and proud history dates back to the 18th century is nowadays more than an agricultural event. August’s show featured none other than celebrity chef Mary Berry who gave two cooking demonstrations along with a book signing in the food hall. (www.denbighandflintshow.com)

LAMPETER FOOD FESTIVAL

CARDIGAN RIVER & FOOD FESTIVAL

Gŵyl Fwyd Llambed returned in July following a twoyear hiatus. Now in its 23rd year and still attracting over eighty stalls to this old mid-Wales farming town set on the banks of the River Towy, it is looking to remain one of Wales’s best-loved food festivals. (www.facebook.com/Lampeterfoodfestival)

A festival that has grown in stature to be now recognised as the premier food festival in west Wales returned for the 22nd time in August to celebrate the delightful River Teifi as well as the diversity of food grown or prepared in the area. (www.facebook.com/CardiganFoodFestival)

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Denbigh and Flint Show

Cardigan Food Festival

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Newtown Food Festival

NEWTOWN FOOD FESTIVAL This popular event – traditionally held on the first weekend of September – returned to the town centre with plenty of tasty treats on offer as more than 40 independent businesses showcased the best produce at mid Wales' largest free food and drinks festival. (www.newtownfoodfestival.org.uk)

LLANDOVERY SHEEP FESTIVAL

Llandovery Sheep Festival

‘More than just sheep!’

That is the boast of this well-established event which returned for its 11th edition in September with a ‘Welsh Myths and Legends’, theme. All proceeds went to this year’s chosen charity The Welsh air Ambulance. (www.llandoverysheepfestival.co.uk)

MUMBLES OYSTER FOOD & DRINK FESTIVAL Oystermouth Castle in atmospheric Mumbles was a most appropriate venue for this year’s September festival which incorporated food, drink and the legendary Oyster Festival, said to have been the closest to a food and drink festival the area has held. (www.oystermouthfestival.wales)

BRECON BEACONS FOOD FESTIVAL Brecon Indoor Market was the venue for an event that drew over sixty of the best local food and drink producers and – along with the celebrity support of BBC Wales weather presenters Sue Charles and Derek Brockway – clearly has a sunny outlook. (www.breconbeaconsfoodfestival.co.uk)

DENBIGH PLUM FEAST

Brecon Food Festival Mumbles Food Festival

When it comes to food festivals with that extra special ingredient The Denbigh Plum Feast – where any product made from Denbigh Plums tends to sell out on the day – is undoubtedly the pick of the bunch. This October saw an impressive line-up of local companies selling their unique produce at Denbigh Town Hall. (www.facebook.com/people/The-DenbighPlum/100057687788605)

NEATH FOOD & DRINK FESTIVAL An event which has established itself as one of the premier events in the town's calendar highlights the variety of high-quality Welsh produce available locally as well as focusing on the range of products currently available from award-winning suppliers in the town’s Victorian Market and surrounding area. (www.facebook.com/NeathFoodFest) Neath Food Fest

LLANELLI FOOD & DRINK FESTIVAL Always a hit with the foodies of south Wales and beyond, Llanelli Food and Drink Festival bounced back this October offering festival goers the chance to indulge themselves with a wide range of artisan produce and street food in an event coinciding with the October running of Llanelli Monthly Food Market. (www.facebook.com/LlanelliFoodandDrinkFestival)

ST DAVID’S DAY FOOD FESTIVAL Held in the wide expanse of Pembrey Country Park, this event in March generally attracts over thirty Welsh food and drink stalls along with a wide variety of caterers. (www.facebook.com/events/pembrey-country-park)

Denbigh Plum Feast

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UNIQULY WELSH. FREE TO GR AZE...

Welsh livestock farmers know that if you look after the environment, the environment will look after you.

For centuries, they have played a pivotal role in creating and maintaining the spectacularly beautiful rural landscapes that we know and love, and their sustainable management has helped create a diverse rural environment that is rich in wildlife and visitor-friendly, thanks to a network of footpaths maintained by farmers.

While the impact of agriculture on climate change is currently a very hot topic, it’s important to remember that there are huge variations in the environmental impact of different farming systems across the world, with Wales being especially suited for rearing cattle and sheep.

Here are some key differences between the Welsh way of agriculture and that found in other parts of the world…

The vast majority (80%) of Welsh farmland is unsuitable for growing crops, therefore raising cattle and sheep is the most efficient way to turn marginal land into high quality food.

The Welsh way of farming is largely non-intensive: unlike other parts of the world, where water resources are depleted or significant land is used to grow feed, Welsh sheep and cattle are overwhelmingly reared on our natural resources – grass and rainwater.

Grassland in the Welsh hills captures carbon from the atmosphere, and Welsh farmers make a positive contribution to mitigating climate change; managing this grassland by combining traditional practices with new innovation.

The Welsh way of farming has a very different story to tell compared with some of the intensive and industrial systems found in other parts of the world.

With high standards of animal husbandry and pasture land management, our family-run farms have helped preserve our unique landscape for generations, and will continue to do so for generations to come.

News

Hold the front page New Year brings launch of devilish new rums Rum lovers have good things to look forward to in 2023, with two new rums to emerge from the home of the Devil’s Bridge Spiced Rum. A golden rum, ideal for cocktails and mixing, is the first, and a silver rum, with a hint of summer botanicals, intended for mojitos and cocktails, or to be enjoyed neat, is the second. Both will be made from the same finest Caribbean rum used in the award-winning Devil’s Bridge Spiced Rum, which is aged in oak barrels for between six and nine years, and then shipped to Wales for distilling and hand bottling. Expect keener pricing than for the flagship Devil’s Bridge Spiced Rum, plus more exciting launches to come.

To find out more about the tale behind this special Welsh rum, which has its source in the Cambrian mountains, and features a woman, her cow and a Bara Brith, go to www.devilsbridgerum.com

Come Holm for Christmas!

If you’re looking for a chic and cosy indoor venue this Christmas, or prefer to enjoy your dinner and drinks alfresco from the comfort of your very own firepit, then try this boutique hotel by the sea.

Holm House prides itself on its coastal luxury and its restaurant has long been considered a jewel in the crown of Penarth’s local dining scene; plus its popular for afternoon teas and lazy Sunday lunches.

Vale locals and city folk alike flock here all year round, with much of its food inspired by its coastal setting, with fish and seafood in abundance. The pan fried scallops, served with carrot and ginger puree, chorizo crisp caper and apricot salsa are to be recommended, and the pan fried fillet of seabass with a caviar beurre blanc is a firm house favourite.

Expect polite and attentive service, plus an impressive wine list. To book go to Holm House Penarth – Hotel | Restaurant | Spa Penarth (holmhousehotel.com) South Caernarfon Creameries

Farmer owned creamery wins global awards Slow Food addresses cost of living A farmer-owned creamery is on top of the world crisis after three of its cheeses won global awards. South Caernarfon Creameries (SCC) scooped the prizes at the prestigious International Cheese and Dairy Awards 2022 where its Mature White Cheddar, Caerphilly and Red Leicester triumphed.

These accolades crowned a remarkable run of success for the co-operative, which is based in Chwilog, near Pwllheli. Earlier this summer it collected seven gold awards at the Royal Welsh Show, and there was more success for its salted butter at the Great Taste Awards.

Scarlets fans will be used to seeing the SCC’s distinctive Dragon Cheese and Butter branding at the Parc Y Scarlets stadium in Llanelli, as the company continues to partner with the Scarlets. The Scarlets have always had strong links with the farming community and the SCC is a wholly owned Welsh dairy co-operative made up of 154 farms.

Staff from the creamery also this year tackled Wales’s highest peak and raised more than £13,000 for charity: for Cofio Robin, a charity which helps support young sports people from Gwynedd, and Welsh rural mental health charity, The DPJ Foundation.

The Denbigh Plum Festival, which is held annually in Denbigh Town Hall to celebrate local food, this year featured a lively debate on the impact of the cost of living crisis on food locally and how communities are responding.

Holm House Penarth

Organised by Slow Food Cymru Wales, the debate featured contributions from local producers, like goat farmer Sam Kenyon, Marguerite Pearce of Denbigh community shop Y Tŷ Gwyrdd, and academic Professor Bruce Evans, from Liverpool Hope University, who spoke about how communal eating was encouraged in the World Wars, and the concept of the British restaurant was introduced where nutritious meals were served in pleasant surroundings at a reasonable price.

Speaking about the session Slow Food Chair Trine Hughes said: ‘We’re hoping this discussion will be a catalyst for some joined up thinking which will allow real change to be made in the way we come together at this time of need.’

Find out more at www.slowfoodcymruwales.org

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News

Lampeter hosts Real Food and Farming Conference

Thermomix launches studio in Newport Market

The fourth Wales Real Food and Farming Conference was held at the university campus in Lampeter, with guest speakers including journalist Sheila Dillon, best known for presenting BBC Radio 4’s Food Programme, Alun Elidyr, the presenter of Ffermio, and Jon Gower, author of The Story of Wales.

Thermomix, a home cooking device, which has been sold across mainland Europe for more than 50 years, is launching its first Welsh cooking studio in Newport market, Europe’s biggest indoor market regeneration, which opened earlier this year.

The programme covered all aspects of farming, growing, and community food, including sessions on emerging local food partnerships, Community Supported Agriculture, school meals procurement, farm profitability, the seeds system, soil science, and systems thinking in education and government.

Evening entertainment came from musician and historian Owen Shiers, with local field trips including a visit to the farming home of Hafod cheese.

Sheila Dillon Hybu Cig Cymru trial

Speaking about the event, restaurateur and food writer Simon Wright said: ‘The challenges we face in Wales in relation to food are enormous, but the opportunities are equally great. It is in imagining that future that WRFFC 2022 can have a crucial role.’

For further see www.wrffc.wales

The concept of Thermomix is huge in Europe, especially Italy, where it is the number 1 wedding gift.

This multi-functional time saving device is regularly seen on TV food programmes, and is now being sold across Wales to both homes and commercial kitchens.

With staff shortages in hospitality, the Thermomix is proving a labour saving device for many busy kitchens, and also a boon to home cooks who are keen to cut both food and energy bills and still eat good food.

The Newport base will become the home for the region’s 93 independent advisors and will run regular demonstrations, showing customers how to save money by making staples like rice flour, almond milk and butter, and creating fool-proof sauces and risottos at the touch of a button.

To find out more go to: www.vorwerk.co.uk and Thermomix South Wales Cooking Studio Events | Eventbrite

Trials ensure Welsh Lamb is most tasty and tender Thermomix

Sir Gareth Edwards

Gower gin goes from strength to strength One of the longest established of the Welsh craft gin houses has had an epic year, reaping a host of awards, including the Industry Choice accolade at the UK Gin Guide Awards 2022, and it’s first edition commemorative gin, launched in collaboration with Sir Gareth Edwards, has been a sell-out.

The Greatest Try was created to commemorate one of the greatest rugby union tries ever scored back in 1973 and the bottle depicts an original painting by Elin Siân Blake of Sir Gareth scoring his spectacular try. The label and box colours represent the Barbarians team that Sir Gareth was playing for and his home club, Cardiff.

The London Dry Gin is made with 15 botanicals to represent the 15 players in a rugby team and the union of rugby playing countries all over the world. Bara Brith spices blend with those from 11 other countries to commemorate a unique event.

To find out more go to www.thegowergincompany.wales

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A project* designed to ensure that PGI Welsh Lamb leads the way in quality and consistency is bringing farmers and consumers closer together. Gareth Morgan and his family, who farm at Llanfynydd in Carmarthenshire, have been supplying lambs to a Hybu Cig Cymru (Meat Promotion Wales) trial, to see whether different methods of storing and packing impact eating quality.

Now in the fourth phase of the project, the meat was presented to consumer panels for tasting, and participants were asked to score each sample on four key meat quality factors including: aroma, flavour, tenderness, and juiciness. The meat was also examined for its nutritional content.

Gareth, who keeps around 600 ewes, and 75 suckler cows said: “We are thrilled to be involved by supplying lambs to the project. If, as a result of this trial, we understand more about the best way of packaging our lamb, the better the product we present to our customers.”

For your own taste of Welsh lamb go to eatwelshlamb.ca * This project is funded by the Welsh Government Rural Communities – Rural Development Programme 2014-2020, which is funded by the European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development and the Welsh Government.

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News

New food and drink producers sparkle at historic fair

Wales bids to host Worldchefs Congress

Visitors to the Royal Welsh Winter Fair at Builth Wells this year were presented with tasty treats from a selection of Wales’ up-and-coming food and drink businesses which were showing their wares under the auspices of Cywain, a project that supports food and drink producers in Wales.

An exciting bid to bring a major global culinary event to Wales is underway, which could attract 1,000 chefs and more than 5,000 visitors.

Taking to the Cywain stand on the first day were Antur Brew Co., Printed Chocolates Ltd, Spiritwood, Coffi Dre and The Crafty Pickle. The next day was the turn of Vale Vineyard - Gwinllan y Dyffryn, Hathren Brownies & Bakes, Pembrokeshire Gold, Woodsend Christmas Puddings, and Calm Cocoa by Meredith Whitely.

Also exhibiting was the Welsh Seafood Cluster and the award-winning The Pembrokeshire Beach Food Company, which is all about innovative seaweed-based products which have been developed from its street food business, Café Mor, in Angle Bay. The company is also behind the newly re-opened The Old Point House, pub and restaurant which is also in Angle Bay.

Royal Welsh Winter Fair

The Culinary Association of Wales is working with ICC Wales, the Celtic Manor Resort and Welsh Government to secure the Worldchefs Congress 2026.

The congress would be held at the ICC Wales conference centre in Newport, with delegates staying at the Celtic Manor Resort and other local hotels. Also in the bidding for the 2026 event are Italy and Hungary, and the winner will be announced following a vote by Worldchefs members next year.

The centre has in recent years hosted some of the world’s largest events, including The Ryder Cup, the 2014 NATO Summit and World Cheese Awards, so fingers crossed that Wales is on the menu this time, having narrowly lost out when bidding for the 2024 event to Singapore.

To find out more go to Winter Fair - Royal Welsh (rwas.wales)

Celtic Manor Resort

Upland sheep farms measure biodiversity impact An environmental auditing programme launched this year will evaluate where Welsh upland farming stands in terms of its environmental credentials, and what scope there is for further improvement.

Gwynedd farmer Huw Alun Evans is one of more than 20 Welsh sheep breeders taking part in this Hybu Cig Cymru (Meat Promotion Wales). The beef and sheep farm near Dolgellau extends from 400ft to 2,400ft to the summit of Rhobell Fawr.

Teulu Hengwrt

His son Rhys said: “We’re fairly confident that our biodiversity is good at Hengwrt, but we need it measured so we can sustain it, and hopefully further improve it. There’s a huge opportunity for us as an industry to showcase to the world what sustainable farming looks like. We’re up to the challenge to be part of the solution not the problem.”

Since 2018, new technologies have been used to record the performance of hill flocks, enabling farmers to breed selectively to improve farms’ commercial performance and environmental sustainability.

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News

University producing world class talent in hospitality The University of Wales Trinity Saint David (UWTSD) hosted Wales’ first ever World Young Chef Young Waiter (YCYW) - Wales competition, in Swansea.

The winning chef was Ali Halbert, 26, of Heaneys Restaurant in Cardiff, and winning waiter was Tilly Morris, 21, of Grove of Narberth. But the story didn’t stop there. Having come out on top in the MasterChefstyle challenge, the pair, representing Wales, went on to win in the world finals in Monaco! World Young Waiter Tilly said “The support of UWTSD enabled us to represent Wales in Monaco in the first World Final.

Thanks to Jayne and the University, we met other industry professionals and were able to demonstrate our skills on a global stage”. Whilst Ali, World Young Chef added “I am super grateful for UWTSD’s support for World YCYW. Without their backing Tilly and I would not have had the opportunity to win at the World finals, which will be a fantastic boost to both of our careers. What they (UWTSD) do within the International Gastronomy Management Degree is amazing and more people need to start thinking about hospitality as a real career option!’

Dr Jayne Griffith-Parry, Chair of Judges for YCYW Wales and World final Judge says: “It’s been fantastic to witness Tilly and Ali’s success in Monaco after our Wales finals a few weeks ago. UWTSD believes that by transforming education we can transform lives, providing opportunities for young people to shine and gain practical experience and skills, and seeing these two collecting their awards just goes to show that what we do is working.”

UWTSD offers industry-based BA Honours courses in International Gastronomy Management and International Hotel Management, both of which can lead to MBAs. Students can access these courses after Level 3 qualifications or, for over 21s, acceptance can be based on industry experience, with start dates in January, April and September. Student loans are available for tuition fees and maintenance, with repayments related to future income. Students who work in Wales can also enter the YCYW Wales competition. International Gastronomy Management is unique in providing ongoing placement over three years working with such venues as Beach House, Oxwich, The Dorchester Collection, JR Events, Grove of Narbeth, The Garrick Club, London and many others. Of the courses, former student Alessandro Calzavacca said: ‘“After 10 years in the industry, starting my academic path with UWTSD was one of the best decisions of my career. The university put me out of my comfort zone pushing me to achieve my hospitality management potential. In my role as supervisor at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal with the world wide awaited opening of The Royal Atlantis Hotel, I can showcase with confidence the many skills I gained at UWTSD”. The University also welcomes applications from employers on behalf of staff, as offering three year degree level training to staff can help with both retention and upskilling,

includes WSET qualifications (level 1 and 2) and, can potentially lead to Investors in People accreditation.

UWTSD is keen to hear from employers who can offer placement opportunities for students, which can help them address staffing issues cost-effectively, and access future talent, and from producers who wish to share product knowledge by way of taster visits for these budding chefs and hospitality professionals, who may well become long-term advocates. To find out more go to www.uwtsd.ac.uk/ba-international-gastronomymanagement or email j.griffith-parry@uwtsd.ac.uk Ali Halbert and Tilly Morris

bay coffee roasters

Golden Fork winners launch coffee pod Based in Ceredigion, Great Taste Golden Fork winners Bay Coffee Roasters aren’t the type to rest on their laurels. As one of Wales’ longest established coffee roasters, starting long before roasting became a trend by importing and grinding their own blends, they built their own roaster, uniquely powered purely by electricity. They introduced a roasting process that’s very different, making them one of the very first commercial wholesale producers to use electricity for roasting. It also means they can source all their energy from 100% traceable renewable energy supplies.

Now, following on from a covid induced shift into retail and continuing with the sustainability theme, they’ve just announced a move to pods, in response to lots of enquiries. As Duncan from Bay Coffee Roasters explains, ‘pods aren’t going away so we want to do them as sustainably as possible using recyclable materials and renewable energy.’ www.baycoffeeroasters.com

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A Winter’s Tale Honey’s a buzz all year round for Wainwright’s Honey In 1983, David Wainwright went to Zambia to volunteer with traditional bark hive beekeepers in the forests of North West Province. His aim was to provide markets for masses of small-scale honey producers and, after a few years, production of honey had completely outstripped local demand - deeming the mission a wonderful success.

The next step of the mission was to begin exporting to Europe and so when he returned to Wales in 1989, he took a huge gamble, importing two shipping containers of honey to continue his work and find new markets.

Fast forward over 30 years and David is still beekeeping. In fact, when discussing this piece on the phone, he answered the call in his protective suit, letting us in on the soft buzzing in his surroundings.

With the help and guidance of Rachels Dairy’s Gareth Rowlands, David began a tedious journey to certify his Zambian honey as organic, something the Soil Association argued against initially, claiming bees could not be organic for they were free to roam farms and collect nectar and pollen from non organic pastures. This honey, however, was in a league of its own. Harvested from deep within the Zambian Forests, the land was nothing but organic forest for miles and miles. Eventually, an inspector was brought to the area, the honey was certified organic and Tropical Forest Ltd, aka Wainwright’s Honey, was born.

In his own words, he was “putting the bees to bed” for the winter. He goes around his hives, picking up each one to get a feel of its weight. If heavy, it is likely full of honeycomb and pollen - stores of energy the bees will use to keep warm throughout the winter. Later, when the Queen starts laying again in early spring, their honey stores will be converted into heat and the pollen used up to feed the young before the colony emerges once again in April.

All of the honey used for the business is extracted and stored in large buckets and drums, awaiting the packaging process at their Aberystwyth facility.

Though packaged and shipped throughout the year, the winter months are by far the most demanding for any bee farmer: “We’re flat-out! In our factory, it’s maximum production every day from October till Christmas, enabling us to continue our commitment to supply retailers from local shops to regional M&S, Waitrose and other outlets” David exclaims.

“People tend to buy more honey at this time of year.

It’s a summer dependent product which thrives in the winter - essentially offering customers the essence of Summer during dark chilly nights”.

Following the festive period, the packaging slows down a little bit in the New Year. Though when asked if that’s his chance to take his own break, he chuckles and confesses as much as he would like to, there is too much work to do - and the bees always come first.

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New equipment needs to be prepared, old equipment needs to be renovated and apiaries need to be restored.

“I don’t like to keep our colonies going for as long as possible, putting in a new Queen when needed. As they do in Africa, I like to let the colonies look after themselves. After all - they know how to do it best. All of our colonies have a life cycle of 3-4 years. Every year, a portion of the colony dies - this is to be expected and is all a natural part of the circle of life”.

“Opening up the colonies causes stress so we leave the bees alone and just provide them with everything that they need: a roof over their heads, protection from wasps and plenty of space to store their honey. The bees respond by producing large crops of honey, our best colonies produce 400lbs per season and we’ve just sent our largest ever order - 50,000 jars!!”

So what happens to the empty hives?

“We pick them up, bring them into the workshop, renovate them and take them outside to be repopulated by the new generations of bees”.

When asked about a life outside of beekeeping and what that might look like, David Wainwright answered with certainty:

“My whole life revolves around beekeeping and I can’t imagine not ever doing it. I would be completely lost if I had to stop for whatever reason - I don’t have a ‘plan bee’.

The Welsh Honey Cluster Tropical Forest Ltd along with a number of other beekeepers in Wales make up the Welsh Honey Cluster, an initiative facilitated by Cywain, a Menter a Busnes food and drink project funded by the Welsh Government.

The Honey Cluster is dedicated to raising the profile and production of Welsh honey and brings together business-minded bee farmers who produce Welsh honey and have ambition to grow supported by commercial, government and academic partners.

The Welsh Honey Cluster recognizes that Welsh bee farmers have a sophisticated understanding and knowledge of bee behaviour, their feeding patterns and how climate change can affect this activity, and provides a platform to further develop these skills and showcase them to a wider audience through new markets.

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51

Restaurant Reviews

The Dragon Hotel Bistro, Montgomery The Dragon Hotel is an historic coaching Inn and dates back to the 1630s. It sits, perched like royalty, with its zebra stripes of white and black, above this small market town, its Georgian street plan still intact. Often described as sleepy, when I visited, it was wide awake and energetic.

My Sunday Lunch at The Dragon Hotel formed part of the town’s Montgomeryshire Literary Festival, a 3-day celebration of words, food and stories.

My Bistro food story kicked off with a Moroccan Cauliflower Salad, miniature deep fried florets of cauliflower with a hint of spice surrounded with a crisp green and radicchio salad, reminiscent of a hot Moroccan afternoon. Finished off with a tangy vinaigrette dressing.

The menu featured the traditional Sunday roasts but I opted for the Butternut Squash and Beetroot Wellington. The Wellington dish was named after the Duke of Wellington, whose favourite dish was Beef Wellington. I’m not sure what the carnivorous Duke would have thought of my vegetable Wellington!

My knife glided through the perfect crispiness of the puff pastry, to discover a dense treasure trove of vegetables and nuts, butternut squash with beetroot, pine nuts and a hint of pesto. The onion gravy surrounded the Wellington like the moat of a castle and provided a delicate flavour allowing the Wellington to be King. Roasted parsnips, roasted carrots and perfectly crisp roast potatoes with pea shoots completed the plate.

Among a selection of vegetables was my favourite, cauliflower cheese, cooked exceptionally well with the strong flavours of Welsh Dragon Cheddar cheese and a good mustard. Welsh Dragon Cheddar is made in North Wales using milk from 154 Welsh dairy herds who spend their days grazing on the lush grass in the Llŷn Peninsula and Snowdonia National Park.

Broccoli, French beans and mangetout were also served.

The Dragon Hotel had an impressively stocked bar with lots of local offerings. Montgomery is home to Monty’s Brewery, who produce a range of awardwinning real ales brewed by their Head Brewer Pam Honeyman. The day of my meal, The Dragon Hotel had Monty’s Sunshine and Monty’s Mischief on tap.

Monty’s also produce Best Offa, the official beer of the Offa’s Dyke pathway which passes close by this town.

My food experience and time spent at The Dragon Hotel Bistro was exceptional. As an experience, food is very much embellished by the company, the memories and the stories that we share. This food story I will remember for a long time, after all it was the Montgomery Literary Festival.

As part of last summer’s Montgomeryshire Literary Festival, taste.blas columnist, Jon Gower, held a lunchtime workshop on food writing in the Dragon Hotel. The attendees were encouraged to try their hand at this gentle art, following the guidance provided by Jon and, from stiff competition, Shirley Owen emerged as winner, with the restaurant review featured here. The 2023 Festival will be held on the weekend of 9th-11th of June, so check out the website montylitfest.com

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Coast Deli and Dining, Aberdyfi

Restaurant Reviews

Overlooking Aberdyfi estuary, is the unassuming gem that is Coast. Walk past its modest façade, and you’d miss an incredible experience. On a damp October night we were welcomed into a warm and unpretentious space bustling with locals: the signs were good from the outset.

Well-travelled patron, Phil, was an amiable fount of knowledge. His passion for Wales was clear as he talked us through a menu, festooned with local produce, all of which gets a cosmopolitan, occasionally international, twist.

His recommendation of a rather fine Bordeaux Blanc from Chateau du Seuil 2015 – a Welsh owned French vineyard – by luck or design proved a well-matched companion for every course, even the earthy Welsh charcuterie board and breads we grazed whilst making our choices.

To start, I chose scallops, from Milford Haven (when not landed across the street) which were bursting with sweet essence of the sea and perfectly cooked. The lightly seared caramelising of the crust contrasted the creamy softness inside, all complemented by sweet peppers and the light touch of a Miso sauce.

B’s Veggie Crumble was the perfect starter for an autumnal evening. The parmesan imbibed crust and its deep umami savouriness was a lovely contrast, in both taste and texture, with the vegetable base bursting with herby, Mediterranean flavours and a lingering peppery, smokiness.

Unable to try the off-season local lobster, which is literally walked in from the quayside over the road, I opted for a terrific, almost plate-sized, local Bream, straight off the boat. With a crisp, perfectly seasoned skin, delicately herby and nutty, the soft meaty flesh was accompanied by Pembrokeshire new potatoes and al dente green beans. The dish was all about subtlety, with little touches, such as local, Wyau Dysynni soft boiled egg, olives and seared tomatoes adding finesse.

Magnificent.

B’s polenta stack was another beautifully constructed dish. The cool creaminess of avocado complementing the warm spicy-sweetness of the roasted, caramelised veg and nutty polenta below. The seared veg brought deep rich notes while the whole dish was crowned by fresh crunchy young pea shoots, edame beans and a sriracha miso hollandaise.

Greedy so-and-so that I am, I couldn’t resist the offer of a stab at both cheesecakes on the menu. The ginger & white chocolate’s stem ginger had a delightful, warm zing that sat perfectly alongside the tang of fluffy cheese and mellow sweet vanilla-ness of the white chocolate. The Salted caramel cheesecake was a more direct, but equally lovely, combo of flavours, this time with sweetness cut through by the salt.

The Chocolate Torte was pudding perfection, which coming from chocolate aficionado B, was some accolade. With sublime texture, light and airy but still with real substance, it was rich and intense, and worked beautifully alongside the old-school vanilla icecream from next door (Aberdyfi Ice cream).

All told, the best, fresh local produce, cooked with skill and imagination, presented with flair and enjoyed in a warm, friendly space at the heart of the local community. It doesn’t really get much better than this.

7 Seaview Terrace, Aberdyfi, LL35 0EE Tel: 01654 767470; www.coastdelidining.co.uk

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Photos are from Coast and, though not the exact dishes, are a fair representation of what was served.

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Recipes

Roast leg of Welsh Lamb topped with herbs, garlic, and lemon and clementine slices Prep time: 25 mins | Cook time: 1 hr 50 mins - 2 hrs | Serves: 6-8

Method

Ingredients

1.

• • • • • • • • • • • •

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2kg leg of PGI Welsh Lamb (on the bone) 1 tbsp oil 1 tbsp dried oregano 3 sprigs rosemary, finely chopped Sprigs of thyme, leaves removed and chopped 4 garlic cloves, crushed Seasoning 3 lemons (zest and juice of one lemon; slice the remaining two lemons) 2 small oranges or clementines, sliced Squeeze of runny honey 1 red onion, cut into wedges 1 garlic bulb, halved

Remove the lamb from the fridge 1 hour prior to cooking so it is at room temperature.

2.

Preheat the oven to 220˚C / 200˚C fan / Gas 7.

3.

In a small bowl, mix the oil, oregano, rosemary, thyme, lemon zest, 2 tablespoons of lemon juice, garlic and seasoning together.

4.

Using a sharp knife, make small incisions into the lamb. Scatter the onion wedges into the roasting tin and place the lamb on top.

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5.

Rub the herb mixture onto the surface of the lamb, and add the halved garlic bulb.

Place into the oven for 30 minutes.

6.

Reduce the temperature to 190˚C / 170˚C fan / Gas 5 and baste the lamb. Cook for a further 45 minutes then remove from the oven and arrange the lemon and orange or clementine slices over the top of the lamb, drizzle with the juices from the tin and the honey.

7.

Place back into the oven to cook for a further 35 minutes for medium cooked lamb, or cook to your liking.

8.

Allow the lamb to rest for at least 30 minutes before carving.

9.

Serve with crispy roast potatoes, vegetables and mint sauce.

Recipes

Welsh Beef steak and ale pie Prep time: 15 mins Cooking time: 2 hrs Serves: 5+

Ingredients • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

2 x 450g packs) of pre diced PGI Welsh Beef chuck or stewing steak 25g flour Seasoning 2 tbsp oil 25g butter 2 large onions, roughly chopped 2 garlic cloves, sliced 150g chestnut mushrooms, quartered 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 1 tbsp tomato purée 1 bay leaf 500ml ale 400ml beef stock Handful of fresh herbs e.g. thyme, parsley, oregano 1 pack of puff or shortcrust pastry 1 egg, beaten

Method 1.

Season the flour and use to coat the beef.

2.

Heat the oil in a large pan or flameproof casserole dish and fry the beef in 2 batches until brown. Remove from the pan.

3.

Add the butter, garlic, onions and mushrooms to the pan and fry for a few minutes. Return the beef to the pan.

4.

5.

6.

Add the tomato purée, Worcestershire sauce, ale, stock, bay leaf and herbs. Stir well and bring to the boil.

Simmer on a low heat for 1 hour 30 minutes until the meat is tender (thicken if required). Remove the lid and allow to cool slightly.

Preheat the oven to 200˚C / 180˚C fan / Gas 6.

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7.

Spoon the filling mixture into the pie dish.

8.

Roll out the pastry for the pie top. Cut 4 long thin strips from the edge of the pastry. Brush the edge of the dish with the beaten egg. Use the strips to place around the edge of the pie dish, and brush with egg.

9.

Place the pastry gently over the filling and strips. Trim any pastry that hangs over the edge.

10. Press and crimp the edges and use any remaining pastry to decorate the pie top.

11. Brush with the beaten egg and place in the oven. Bake for approximately 25-30 minutes until the top is golden brown and the filling is piping hot.

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Recipes

Vegan Christmas Cake

By Tim John, Hospitality Training Officer, Cambrian Training.

like. Add this to your bowl along with the almonds and flour and mix well before pouring into your tin. Cook at 150C/130C fan/gas 2 for around 2 hours. Remove the cake from the oven and allow to cool. You can now feed the cake over the next few weeks with more rum before you cover in your Vegan Marzipan and Vegan Icing but don’t feed the cake for a week before you do that to make sure the surface has dried.

Ingredients • • • • • • • • • • • • •

1kg mixed dried fruit (Tim has used a variety of dried fruit including prunes and figs) 1 Orange (juice and zest) 1 Lemon (juice and zest) 150ml of Rum 250g coconut oil or coconut butter 200g soft brown sugar 100g flaked almonds 4 tbsp chia seeds 175g Self raising flour 100g ground almonds 2 tsp mixed spice 1 tsp ground cinnamon ¼ tsp ground cloves

Method 1.

2.

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Place all the dried fruit, juice and zest, rum, coconut oil, sugar and spices into a large saucepan and bring slowly to the boil then quickly lower the heat and allow to simmer for a few minutes so that the sugar dissolves. Tip the mixture into a bowl, allow to cool then cover with cling film and leave overnight in the fridge.

Prepare your cake tin in advance by lining with baking parchment and you can also wrap a layer of foil around the outside of the tin to prevent the cake from cooking too quickly.

In the morning you will need to mix your chia seeds with 150ml of water and leave to sit until the seeds become thick and gel

Vegan Marzipan Recipe

Vegan Royal Icing

Ingredients 9 tbsp chickpea brine, the water drained from a can of chickpeas 500 g / sifted icing sugar 2 tsp vegetable glycerine

Method 1.

Ingredients • • • • •

90g + 1 tbsp blanched and finely ground almond flour 70g Icing Sugar 20ml water or a liquid sweetener ¼ – ½ tsp almond extract ½ tsp rose water

Method 1.

2.

3.

2.

3.

4.

Put the icing sugar and almond flour into a food processor and blitz until they are really smooth Add the water or liquid sweetener, almond extract and rose water and do a few short pulses until the dough starts to form a ball. If your dough does not hold together just add a little water or the liquid sweetener but be careful not to add too much.

Remove the mix from the processor and knead on a clean surface. Shape into a log and cling wrap then refrigerate to firm up.

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Whisk the chickpea water with an electric mixer until it becomes fluffy before adding about 400g of the icing sugar slowly then continue mixing at high speed until the mixture gets thick and looks glossy.

Stir in the rest of the sugar with the glycerine and keep mixing until soft peaks are formed.

If you need your icing to be thicker then slowly add more icing sugar until you reach required thickness You can store the mixture for a few days but cover and keep at room temperature.

The techniques and skills used in this recipe are taught to apprentices who are working towards an Apprenticeship Level 3 in Professional Cookery. It covers preparing game meat, as well as cooking & finishing of complex vegetable dishes & hot sauces. For more information about how we can help support your business or help you become an apprentice, please contact Cambrian Training Company on: 01938555893 or email: info@cambriantraining.com

Great taste 2022 Golden Fork for Wales Winner Fairtrade and Organic Certified coffees One of the only UK coffee roasters to use 100% renewable electric energy.

Buy direct at www.baycoffeeroasters.com Whole sale rates for cafes and delis.

Anglesey Cold Brew

Coffee Liqueur Hand-crafted in small batches, for exceptional quality and taste

To subscribe to taste.blas call 029 2019 0224 Visit our website: www.taste-blas.co.uk

Experience aromatic tasting notes of vanilla and coconut rising from Derw's distinctive depths, with this coffee and tonka bean liqueur.

With 75% less sugar than most liqueurs, and numerous prestigious awards under its belt, this truly is something special.

Try it on its own, over ice, in cocktails or in desserts.

Get your bottle and recipe ideas now:

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Recipes

Roast sirloin of Welsh Beef with red wine glaze and topped with crispy onions Prep time: 25 mins | Cook time: 1 hr 15 mins (for medium cooked) | Serves: 6

Ingredients • • •

1.5kg PGI Welsh Beef sirloin joint 1 tbsp oil Handful thyme and rosemary sprigs, chopped • 2 garlic cloves, crushed • Seasoning • 1 red onion, cut into wedges • 2 carrots, halved lengthways • Sprigs of thyme and rosemary • 1 garlic bulb, halved and brushed with oil For the glaze • 1 glass red wine • Dash red wine vinegar • 1 tbsp brown sugar • 1 tsp malt/yeast paste • 1 heaped tbsp cranberry sauce • Handful fresh or frozen cranberries (optional)

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• •

½ tsp black peppercorns, crushed Small carton of ready-made crispy onions, crushed

6.

Reduce the oven temperature to 180˚C / 160˚C fan / Gas 4 and calculate the remaining cooking time (10-15 minutes per 450g for medium-rare, 15-20 minutes per 450g for medium, and 20-25 minutes per 450g for well done).

7.

Make the glaze by placing all the ingredients into a small pan and bring to the boil, reduce and simmer until a syrupy consistency.

8.

When 15 minutes of cooking time is left, pour most of the glaze over the beef and return it to the oven.

9.

Check to see if the beef is cooked to your liking, remove, brush with the remaining glaze and scatter the crispy onions on top.

Allow to rest before carving.

Method 1.

Remove the beef from the fridge 1 hour before cooking and allow to reach room temperature.

2.

Preheat the oven to 220˚C / 200˚C fan / Gas 7.

3.

In a small bowl, mix the oil, chopped herbs, garlic and seasoning together.

4.

Place the onion and carrots in the bottom of a roasting tin to create a trivet. Sit the beef on top and smear the herby mixture over the beef. Add the sprigs of herbs and garlic bulb.

Place in the oven for 20 minutes.

5.

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Recipes

Roast porc loin served with mini stuffed baked apples

Prep time: 30 mins | Cook time: 1 hr 50 mins | Serves: 6

Method

Ingredients

1.

Remove the porc from the fridge and allow to reach room temperature. Dry the surface of the porc with kitchen paper.

2.

Preheat the oven to 230˚C / 210˚C fan / Gas 8.

3.

Place the carrot halves, onion wedges and sage leaves in a roasting tin and sit the porc on top. Rub the oil all over the surface of the porc and sprinkle with sea salt.

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

1.8kg porc loin joint, skin scored 1 tbsp oil Sea salt 1 carrot, halved lengthways 1 small onion, cut into wedges Sage leaves For the stuffed apples: 6 firm red eating apples 1 tbsp oil Knob of butter 1 red onion, finely chopped 4 rashers streaky bacon, chopped 40g dried apricots, finely chopped 1 tsp dried sage ½ tsp cinnamon Seasoning

4.

5.

While the porc is cooking, prepare the apples. Slice the top of the apples approximately 1cm from the top and lightly score around the middle of the apple (to prevent it from bursting).

Remove the core of the apple.

6.

Make the filling by heating the oil and butter and gently fry the bacon and onion for a few minutes until lightly browned.

Add the sage, cinnamon, apricots and seasoning, and cook for a further 5 minutes.

7.

Place the apples into an ovenproof dish and stuff the centres with the filling. Place a little on top of each one and then pop the lids back on, or place in the tin around the porc joint for the last 35-40 minutes of cooking time.

8.

Rest the porc before carving.

Place in the oven for 20 minutes then reduce the temperature to 180˚C / 160˚C fan / Gas 4 and cook for the remaining time (approximately 1 hour 30 minutes).

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59

Recipes

Honey glazed half-leg Welsh Lamb with crispy parsnips and pears Prep time: 20 mins Cook time: 1 hr 50 mins Serves: 4

Ingredients • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

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½ leg PGI Welsh Lamb (approx. 1.5kg) For the marinade/glaze: 3 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp wholegrain mustard 2 tbsp runny honey 2 lemons, juice only 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped or crushed ½ tbsp rosemary, chopped 1 tbsp thyme leaves ½ tsp black pepper ¼ tsp salt 3 firm pears, cored and cut into pieces lengthways 4 parsnips, peeled and cut into pieces lengthways Rosemary sprigs

Method 1.

Preheat the oven to 180˚C / 160˚C fan / Gas 4.

2.

Weigh the lamb and calculate the cooking time. For medium, allow 25 mins per 500g plus 25 mins. For well done, allow 30 mins per 500g plus 30 mins.

3.

Remove the lamb from the fridge and place on a large roasting tin and, using a sharp knife, make incisions in the lamb.

4.

Make the marinade by mixing all the ingredients together. Pour approximately half of the marinade over the lamb, rub into the lamb and allow to stand for 30 minutes at room temperature.

5.

Place the lamb in the oven and cover loosely with foil (do not seal). (See step 2 for cooking times).

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6.

Remove the lamb from the oven 20 minutes before the end of the cooking time, remove the foil, and increase the oven temperature to 190˚C / 170˚C fan / Gas 5.

7.

Coat the pears and parsnips with the remaining marinade and scatter around the lamb in the roasting tin, and add a few sprigs of rosemary. Return to the oven for 20 minutes.

8.

Remove the lamb and allow it to rest.

Place the roasting tin back in the oven and cook for a further 10 minutes or until the parsnips are cooked, golden and crispy.

9.

Serve slices of the roast lamb with the pears and parsnips and drizzle over the juices from the roasting tin.

Recipes

• • •

Autumnal Damson Bavarois Fig leaf Oil Seasonal fruit poached in stock syrup Red vein sorrel

Method

By Will Richards, Hospitality Training Officer, Cambrian Training Using your freshly picked autumnal damson’s, recreate this creamy bavarois, accompanied by sweet crumbled meringue.

Ingredients Bavarois • 150ml of Damson puree • 125ml of milk • 4 egg yolks • 150g of sugar • 3 gelatine leaves, soaked in cold water • 250ml of cream, semi-whipped • 8-10 cardamom seeds Jelly • 100g Damson puree • 50g water • Sugar to taste • 2 gelatine leaves Meringue • 150g Egg Whites • 80g Caster Sugar Garnish • Sheep’s Yoghurt

Jelly 1. Soak the gelatine in cold water until soft 2. Place the puree, water and the sugar into a pan and bring to the boil 3. Once boiling, remove from the heat and stir in the gelatine then leave to cool Bavarois 1. Begin by preparing the mousse. Heat up a sauce pan and place the cardamom pods in to toast and release the flavour 2. Add the milk to a pan and bring to a simmer.

3. Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks and sugar in a heatproof bowl until pale and fluffy 4. Squeeze any excess liquid from the gelatine, then add to the warm milk and stir to dissolve.

5. Slowly pour the milk onto the eggs and whisk to combine then return to the heat and cook to 82°C then pass through a fine sieve 6. Leave to cool to room temperature before adding the damson purée to the mix, then gently folding in the semi-whipped cream and transfer to a ring mould lined with clingfilm 7. When the mousse is set and the jelly is cool, pour over the top to form a topping of jelly (not too thick) Yoghurt 1. Place the yoghurt into a sieve lined with blue cloth and leave to hang overnight to

Cocktails at Christmas

remove the whey from the mixture.

Place the curd into a piping bag and dress the plate when needed Meringue 1. Place the meringue into a mixer and whisk to soft peaks, 2. Lower the speed and add the sugar in bit by bit until incorporated and stiff 3. Spread onto a tray lined with baking paper and cook for 40 minutes on 110 degrees Celsius 4. Leave to cool then smash to serve, keep in an air tight container To serve: Make sure you use a cold plate and wipe over with a damp cloth to remove any marks or finger prints. Demould the bavarois and place into the centre of the plate. Pipe on the yoghurt curd in odd numbers of 3 large or 5 smaller piles. Evenly place your poached fruit next to each part of yoghurt. Next you will need to place the sorrel evenly around the plate making sure to select the large bright faced leaves. Lastly, if you allow the fig leaf oil to drip generously around the plate and sprinkle over the crushed meringue to finish. Finally grab yourself a spoon, sit back and enjoy all your hard work!

2.

The techniques and skills used in this recipe are taught to apprentices who are working towards an Apprenticeship Level 3 in Professional Cookery. It covers preparing, cooking & finishing of complex cold desserts. For more information about how we can help support your business or help you become an apprentice, please contact Cambrian Training Company on: 01938555893 or email: info@cambriantraining.com

Cocktails of the month

Mix a couple of crackers, courtesy Eccentric Spirits

Coconut Russian Ingredients

Method

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1.

Cardi Bay Vodka - 40ml Kahlua - 20ml Coconut Milk - 40ml Vanilla Bitters - 2 Dashes Coconut & Vanilla Syrup Rim

Mint Gin Alexander

Prepare your glass by coating the rim of the glass in vanilla syrup then dipping into desiccated coconut. Add ice to the glass and pour in the vodka, Kahlua and bitters. Stir for 30 seconds, then carefully pour in the coconut milk on top, over a bar spoon. Serve with straw.

Ingredients

Method

• • • • •

1.

Eccentric Dewi Sant Gin - 40ml White Creme de Cacao - 20ml Creme de Menthe - 10ml Single Cream - 20ml Mint Sprig & Grated Nutmeg Garnish

2.

Add all the ingredients to a shaker filled with ice and shake.

Strain into a cocktail glass and grate nutmeg on top and garnish with a mint sprig. Alternatively, for those who would prefer to abstain, indulge in a delicious

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Tyfu busnes trwy gydweithio Growing business through collaboration

Cefnogaeth Bersonol a Phroffesi ynol Personal and Professional Supp ort

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1,000+ erthfawr w G n o u e fl y C portunities Valuable Op

Rydym yn gweithio gyda cynhyrchwyr bwyd a diod ledled Cymru yn cynnig cefnogaeth a gwybodaeth i ddatblygu a thyfu busnes.

We work with food and drink producers from across Wales giving them support and the knowledge they need to develop and grow their business.

Cysylltwch â ni i weld sut gallwn ni eich helpu chi:

Get in touch with us to see how we can help you too:

food and drink companies in Wales supported.

cywain@menterabusnes.co.uk Cronfa Amaethyddol Ewrop ar gyfer Datblygu Gwledig: Ewrop yn Buddsoddi mewn Ardaloedd Gwledig European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development: Europe Investing in Rural Areas

Food Drink Reviews Get Jerky Wild Venison Jerky So the story goes, in December 1999, a Welshman ventured on a 1,500 mile mission of discovery from Chicago to Yellowstone National Park and had his first taste of Beef Jerky.

After realising his newfound love for the protein packed snack, he searched for guidance from American Jerky enthusiasts, who gave him the techniques & recipes needed to produce his own great Jerky.

Fast-forward over 20 years and Welshpool based, Trailhead Get Jerky produces responsibly sourced, Welsh jerky, made using premium Welsh beef with each unique marinade inspired by their founder’s travels across America and by ingredients from all over the world. Their latest additions use the healthiest red meat of all – protein rich, fat free, wild venison.

The Original Wild Venison has a deeper taste than beef with a richer, slightly stronger flavour that rolls around in the mouth. It has a tart edge, in a good way, with a nice gentle peppery heat. Texture wise it is well dried with a really, satisfyingly chewy bite to it. Different but enjoyable.

The Spicy Chilli has a real nice kick too, softened by a sweet chilli flavour that works really well. It is rounded and nicely balanced, but still has that familiar venison gaminess, once the chilli hit has subsided. It’s very moreish, leaving you wanting more after emptying the packet. Both are available at Co-op, independent retail and www.trailheadfinefoods.co.uk

Gwella Family owned Gwella have been making amazing, award-winning cooked and cured lamb, mutton and beef pre-packed products, all from animals reared on their farm over-looking Cardigan Bay near Aberystwyth, for a number of years. Now they’ve expanded their repertoire, having seen an opportunity to sell takeaway, ready to eat snacks, also made using their own meat.

Food and Drink

Celteg Mulled Wine, Mead and Christmas Dessert Wine Christmas Collection Celteg have been making hand-crafted award-winning natural fruit wines, liqueurs, spirits and preserves since 1989. Based in rural Ceredigion, they specialise in turning fruits and other delicious ingredients into ‘bottles of heaven’.

Their Christmas Collection arrived in a smart, Christmassy presentation box replete with thoughtful messages and branding. First out was the Mulled Mead. It was fun making it - add water, throw in the bag of hand-picked chunky spices and simmer, adding demerara sugar to taste. With a perfumed honeyed nose, a sweet, warming tingle at the back of the mouth and a touch of lemon in the aftertaste, all complementing the heady spice mix, it was Christmas in a bottle, instantly conjuring images of medieval seasonal jollities. Next up was the Elderberry Mulled Wine. With the same making process, it’s much more, er wine-like, being berried and considerably drier, though still sweet enough to be reminiscent of port.

It had plenty of depth and layers of flavour – fruit, Christmas woodiness, pine amongst others, and of course the big, lingering spice hit – raising it to a level way beyond your usual mulled wine fayre. And lastly, but by no means least, is the Christmas Dessert Wine. It was sweet enough to work brilliantly with a mince pie but definitely not overpoweringly so. It was pleasantly complex - the sweet fruitiness balanced by a slight sharpness, with lingering aromas of wood and digestive biscuit. Rather like the very best boiled sweet, as my tasting partner put it. Cracking stuff and great as a present or for personal consumption this Crimbo. www.celticwines.co.uk

There’s a feisty, bitesize pie of mellow lamb and tartbut-sweet-enough blackberry relish. With plenty of meat in a thin, crunchy pastry, it’s nigh on perfect. If you prefer something with a deeper, more savoury flavour there are a couple of choices. How about a Beef and Courgette Marmalade Pie? Or a Lamb Bacon Turnover, that uses Gwella’s unique cured lamb for a rich savoury hit. Both are just as tasty.

If you want something gamier still, try the Mutton and Rhubarb Chutney Pie with its layers of gaminess, savouriness and sweetness. If spice is more your thing, the delicate but full-flavoured lamb-bites are little bundles of joy. For an even spicier hit, grab a bag of beef meatballs – they have a nice kick but won’t blow your head off, so you can still appreciate the fine quality of the meat. All are available from Gwella’s stand at fairs or from www.gwellacymru.co.uk

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Food and Drink

Derw Cold Brew Coffee Liqueur We don’t usually get to experience a fusion of Wales and Indonesia, but that is exactly what is on offer from Derw Coffee, the brainchild of husband and wife team, Chris and Intan who hail from Wales and Bali respectively. Together they have created Wales first cold-brew coffee product using quality Indonesian beans which are roasted, overlooking the beautiful Anglesey coastline. The cold-brew method, which takes 16 hours in total, results in a coffee that is stronger, smoother and more intense. The resulting blend adds an incredible richness when incorporated into recipes such as tiramisu or coffee cake.

Derw have recently added coffee liqueurs to their range, available both with and without caffeine. These are delicious, sophisticated drinks with an elegant complexity that is a far cry from their mass-produced cousins. Nor are they anywhere near as sweet, a big plus for those that find most liqueurs rather sickly. The distinctive coffee aroma and taste are present from the first sip, while the warmth of the spirit gradually develops to create the smooth, rounded warming experience. Derw’s liqueurs are perfect, sipped just as they are, on the rocks, in an espresso martini or even poured over ice-cream. With their cold-brew coffee liqueurs Derw have created a warming tipple that any real coffee aficionado would be delighted to find in their drink’s cabinet this Christmas.

Castle Dairies Halen Môn Salted Butter For a truly Welsh marriage, two stalwarts of the principality’s fine food industry have teamed up to produce something special. Castle Dairies and Halen Môn have united to create a new Welsh butter roll, made with 100% Welsh cream and those famous Anglesey natural sea salt crystals. Family-owned Castle Dairies sources its cream from Red Tractor Assured farms across Wales while Halen Môn is one of the few sea-salt producers in the country to hold Certified Product Status from the Soil Association.

Coming from such solid Welsh pedigree, how can the butter do anything but please, and please it did!

Sampled on a crusty cob, smothered across soughdough toast and dripping from a warm crumpet, this butter was delightful. It has all the smooth and satisfying creaminess you would expect from a quality Castle Dairies butter, cut through with the crisp seasalt flavour of Halen Môn. The result is a rich, full and all-encompassing taste profile. This is an exceptional butter, created from Wales’s own incredible natural resources – a match made, if not in heaven, then certainly in Wales! www.castledairies.co.uk

www.derwcoffee.co.uk

Cardi Bay Vodka

Monty’s Malarkey and semi-nude

Eccentric Spirit have come a long way in recent years, having become part of In The Welsh Wind’s stable in 2020. With many award-winning gins, there’s something for everyone in Eccentric’s range. The latest addition is something of a departure - Cardi Bay Vodka. Yep, Vodka.

Many brewers have tried low/zero alcohol or gluten free alternatives beers. Few have really succeeded in producing anything that properly captures the essence of a good real or craft ale and some are pretty grim.

Step forward Monty’s Brewery to save the day.

Inspired by the gorse which cloaks the Ceredigion coast, this smooth vodka, distilled at In The Welsh Wind’s Cardigan based distillery, is infused with hints of vanilla and coconut. Neat, it’s deliciously smooth and refined, a world apart from the more common brands’ spirits. But where it really comes into its own is with a tonic or lemonade which seems to release the subtleties of the vanilla and coconut, in much the same way that a splash of water does to a good malt whisky, creating a complex drink that conjures balmy summer evenings. It also elevates a classic ‘screwdriver’, adding a hint of the tropics and works well with a coke, though some might feel that’s rather a waste of good vodka. We particularly liked it in an espresso martini (as recommended by ITWW), where it’s vanilla and coconut is a great counterpoint to the coffee. Without doubt, Cardi Bay is a very classy and well-balanced vodka with broad appeal and a great addition to Eccentric’s repertoire.

Just in time for Christmas parties and dry January is semi-nude. At 1.2% alc, it’s Monty’s take on a low alcohol beer and the result of an often challenging process to create something that tastes as good as its full-strength brethren. Taste wise, the result is more of a session beer approach, being a great balance of fruit, citrus and hoppy bitterness, and is totally convincing.

So, forget any experience you may have had of, quite frankly, barely drinkable low alcohol beers in the past, semi-nude is the real deal and a beer we’d happily drink whether or not we were abstaining. www.montysbrewery.co.uk

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Malarkey is the latest in their range of gluten free beers and is a powerful, hop-forward IPA with a slightly malty aroma leading to a crisp, citrussy hit from the Cascade and Simcoe hops, which lend a very pleasing bitterness, without being totally over-powering. The result is a great, hoppy IPA, and one that, as an IBS sufferer, I can say with certainty does not have any nasty gut side-effects.

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Check out our Website at:

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MORGANS BREW TEA

We are specialist suppliers of loose leaf teas and infusions from established plantations.

Our blends are sourced from a collection of old and new recipes. We sell our own brand of 46 loose leaf teas and accessories via online webshop.

We love to share our passion for tea in all its myriad forms and delight in inspiring our customers to try new flavours and recipes.We want to encourage our customers to think differently about they use tea and infusions for drinking and culinary use.

Our aromatic and flavour-rich blends are endlessly versatile; whether it be a satisfying cuppa, a delicate herbal pick-me-up, as an aromatic culinary ingredient or as a twist to an elegant cocktail. From black teas to caffeine-free, from herbal to fruit infusion – all our teas are blended for your enjoyment. You can drink our teas and infusions in the morning, mid-day, afternoon, evening - and as a nightcap.

T: 01938 552 303 | M: 07713 440 558 | E: hello@morgansbrewtea.co.uk | www.morgansbrewtea.co.uk Oldford House, Berriew Road, Welshpool, Powys SY21 7SS

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A King’s Christmas in Wales Myfanwy Alexander We live in a new age, the age of King Charles III, a king who has a home here, at Llwynywermwd near Llandovery. Recent royal tradition dictates that the monarch spends Christmas at Sandringham but, after all, Norfolk is so very flat. Why shouldn’t the King and his consort spend their festive break in Wales?

St Michaels in Myddfai would do just as well for the obligatory ‘going to church’ pictures for the papers and besides, they could tuck in to a seasonal feast featuring the best of Welsh Food and Drink.

I’m assuming the King and his consort might, as they have so often done in the past, come to Carmarthenshire to chill out, avoiding the rigours of a full on family Christmas. (Also, isn’t it time Kate and William went to her parents for The Day?) I am also assuming, in the way we all do with our Festive routines, which we all take for granted as being the best way to arrange matters, that the Royal couple will follow the ‘stockings before church, presents afterwards’ routine. I always put foodie treats in Christmas Stockings and they need to please the eye as well as the palate: the stunning designs used by Coco Pzazz always delight. Even though my girls are now adults, the stockings are as popular as ever: miniatures from Aber Falls having replaced the chocolate reindeer but sugar mice still lurk in the toe.

For the post-church present opening, the indulgence needs to go up a notch. First of all, it is time for the first drink of the day and it has to be fizz for which perhaps a ‘Méthode Traditionnelle’ from the Croffta vineyard in the Vale of Glamorgan would work nicely.

And to complement the fizz, our Royal Unwrappers might choose from a box of Wickedly Welsh chocolates which boast no less than four types of praline, to say nothing of boozy delights like Raspberry Vodka and Strawberry and Champagne, guaranteed to tickle the Royal Fancy. One of my impossibly glamorous aunts introduced me to the allure of the statement box of chocolates: she always took a box the size of a cartwheel to matinees.

It might well be that the King has some game he shot hanging in his game larder but should his duties as

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King have curtailed his sporting opportunities, Wild Welsh Meat is the next best thing. In fact, having spent what felt like the better part of my youth feathering a variety of poultry and game, I would say that this company, based in the glorious Pennant Valley in Montgomeryshire, are an utter godsend. My mother held firmly to the idea that ‘dealing properly with what one’s husband shoots’ was the secret to a happy marriage and trained us appropriately. WWM also provide our Royal Christmas Lunch with Pheasants in Fleeces, their own gamey take on the staple ‘Pigs in Blankets’. A Montgomery Vineyard Rondo is flavoursome enough to hold its own with game but light enough to make sure the King doesn’t doze off before his speech.

Welsh Country Cakes provide a splendid Christmas Pudding laced with Celtic Wines’ Elderport. The package which contains a pud and a bottle of Elderport will suit our regal revellers very well and they might even gild that lily by adding a dollop of Heavenly Ice Cream. My own favourite flavour is apple and pomegranate crumble but a fruity sorbet might be a better bet, perhaps raspberry and mango.

The King might need a nerve-strengthening tot of that Elderport before watching his first Christmas Speech.

Its fruity richness means that a little goes a long way; certainly a drop to savour rather than slug. After the Speech, there won’t be much daylight so perhaps a turn around the garden might be better than a long walk.

Then a quiet evening browsing the books received for Christmas with a slice of Siwgar a Sbeis’s legendary Christmas Cake or a mince pie livened up with Barti Ddu Seaweed Spiced Rum. They may not cut into The Cake until Boxing Day: our cake sits at the centre of a complex Venn diagram of dietary requirements and preferences, from the gluten free for serious health reasons to the settled view that candied peel is the work of the devil.

If the King and his consort enjoyed a Christmas Day like that, perhaps someone had better get Sandringham listed on Air BNB for next year.

...grazed on the open pastures of North and West Wales, is the only milk we use in our award-winning Welsh cheese and Welsh butter.

Part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Our Handcrafted Slate Cavern Aged Cheddar has true provenance, and its story is steeped in Welsh history.

Our family owned dairy farm co-operative members are located across North-West Wales.

Supplying us with exceptional quality milk from their cows that graze on the lush Welsh pastures.

Now you can purchase multi-award winning Welsh cheese direct from the dairy in North Wales.

Our range of traditional cheese and hand-crafted cheeses are available along with butter and some gorgeous local products to serve with our cheese.

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@DragonDairy

@Dragon_Wales

ROAST LEG OF PGI WELSH LAMB WITH LEMON AND CLEMENTINE SLICES

ROAST PORC BLASUS LOIN WITH STUFFED BAKED APPLES

Do you have a signature roast?

Your new Christmas tradition starts here…

eatwelshlambandwelshbeef.com

porcblasus.cymru

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ROAST SIRLOIN OF PGI WELSH BEEF WITH RED WINE GLAZE AND CRISPY ONIONS