Discover Taos Winter/Spring 2018

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Give your Holidays a

TWIST

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TAOS.org/100

MUSEUMS

HISTORIC BUILDINGS

NOTEWORTHY SITES

6 7 11 13 18 23 24

1 2 3 4 5

A Kit Carson Park & Cemetery B Location of original Our Lady of Guadalupe Church C Taos Community Auditorium D First Presbyterian Church E D.H. Lawrence Ranch

E.L. Blumenschein House Harwood Museum of Art Governor Charles Bent House Taos Art Museum at Fechin House Kit Carson Home & Museum Millicent Rogers Museum Hacienda de los Martínez

8 9 10 12 14 15 16 17 19 20 21 22

Taos Plaza Hotel La Fonda de Taos Historic County Courthouse Our Lady of Guadalupe Church Guadalupe Plaza and Santistevan House Padre Martínez House La Loma Plaza Long John Dunn House Bert Phillips House Arthur Manby House The Historic Taos Inn El Ríncon Trading Post Walter Ufer Studio Luna Chapel and Sharp Studio Eanger Irving Couse House Mabel Dodge Luhan House Victor Higgins House

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slow down

~Unplug: Wood-Burning Kiva Fireplaces ~Simplify: Fresh Eggs Daily from “The Girls” ~Relax: With a great novel •••

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Special Winter Packages Available!

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Our 156 graciously-appointed guestrooms and suites deliver modern comforts and conveniences wrapped in Southwest charm, set against a backdrop of stunning Sangre de Cristo Mountain vistas.

All stays include complimentary breakfast, and onsite dining features authentic Southwest cuisine, including the best Prime Rib in Taos, a fabulous Happy Hour, live music, and so much more. Ĺ– @;u ˆ-Ń´b7 |_uo†]_ ƔņƒĆ?ņƑĆ?Ć?ќĺ "†0f;1| |o -ˆ-bŃ´-0bŃ´b|‹ -m7 0Ń´-1ho†| 7-|;v l-‹ -rrѴ‹ĺ &v; 1o7; TAOSVG ‰_;m 0oohbm]Äş 1508 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur, Taos, New Mexico 87571 | 575.758.2254

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If You Love History You Will Love The Kit Carson Home And Museum!

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A premier destination art space, providing a personalized experience.

AFocusing premier destination artart space, providing a personalized experience. on mid-century modern Taos Moderns, as well as a selection A premier destination space,art, providing a personalized experience.

Focusing on mid-century modern art, Taos Moderns, as well as a selection of the best current Taos and nationally known contemporary Focusing on Mid-Century Modern art, Taos Moderns, as well as artists. a selection Located 2 nationally miles south of Taos Plaza. of the best current Taos and known contemporary artists. of the best current Taosjust and nationally known contemporary artists.

Located southofofTaos Taos Plaza.

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EXPRESSIONS AR T S + C U LT U R E

c o n t i n u e s f ro m p g . 5 2

GOVERNOR BENT HOUSE AND MUSEUM 1 17 B e n t S t .

Ho u r s : D a i l y, 9 a . m . - 5 p. m . ( 57 5 ) 7 5 8 - 2 37 6 la pla za.org

RECOGNIZED FOR ITS SIGNIFICANCE, THE HOME OF ARTISTS E.L. BLUMENSCHEIN, HIS WIFE, MARY, AND THEIR DAUGHTER, HELEN, IS REGISTERED AS A NATIONAL HISTORIC LANDMARK. SCOT T GERDES

THE HOMESTEADERS CABIN AT THE D.H. L AWRENCE R ANCH. KATHARINE EGLI

D.H. LAWRENCE RANCH Sa n Cr i stoba l Road of f S t a t e R o a d 5 2 2 No r t h ( m a ke a r ight turn after m i l e m a r ke r 10 ; s ign s ma rk the r e s t of t h e wa y ) , Sa n Cr i stoba l Ho u r s : P l e a s e c a l l ( 57 5 ) 7 37 - 9 3 00 d h l aw r e n c e t a o s . org

Also known as Kiowa Ranch, this site is situated on 160 pristine acres on Lobo Mountain, about 20 miles north of Taos. Frieda, the wife

of the famed author, entrusted the ranch in her will to the University of New Mexico for the purpose of creating a public memorial to her husband. The ranch features buildings once used as respites for other writers and artists, such as Georgia O’Keeffe. Still standing is the ponderosa pine tree O’Keeffe painted during her first visit to New Mexico in 1929 (“The Lawrence Tree”).

The towering tree is in front of the main house. The ranch is also home to the D.H.

Lawrence Memorial Chapel. The couple owned and lived at the ranch during their visits to Taos in the early 1920s.

Lawrence was a British novelist, playwright, essayist, literary critic and painter. Among his most famous works were “Women in Love” and “Lady Chatterley’s Lover.”

The ranch is on the National Register of Historic Places and the New Mexico State Register of Cultural Properties.

This is the home of the state’s first American governor – a trapper, trader and mountain man. Charles Bent was appointed governor of New Mexico in 1834 when it became American territory during the Mexican-American War. Outside the home in January 1847, he was scalped alive and then killed by an angry mob protesting the American rule. Josefa Carson (wife of Kit Carson) and her sister, who was Bent’s wife, Ignacia, were both present in the Bent home when the then-governor was dragged out into the street and slain during the rebellion. Along with Ignacia’s firstborn daughter, Rumalda, she and Josefa dug the famous hole in the Bent home as an escape route into the adjoining house that fateful night.

The hole is still visible. The museum also features 19th-century artifacts of the area and a surprise oddity.

Admission is $3 for adults, 50 cents for children.

HACIENDA DE LOS MARTINEZ 7 08 Ha c i e n d a Wa y, of f R a n c h i t o s R o a d Ho u r s : Mo n d a y S a t u r d a y, 10 a . m .

5 p. m . ; S u n d a y, n o o n - 5 p. m . ( 57 5 ) 7 5 8 - 1000 taosh i stor icmu se u m s.org

This thick-walled adobe fortress-like trading post with 21 rooms surrounding two interior courtyards is on the National Register of Historic Places and

gives a glimpse of rugged frontier life.

It was constructed in 1804 by Severino Martinez. He and his wife, Maria del Carmel Santistevan Martinez, raised six children here.

Their eldest son was the famous Padre Antonio Martinez, who battled the French Bishop Lamy to preserve the Hispanic character of the Roman Catholic Church in the territory. His statue stands in Taos Plaza. The hacienda is one of the few Northern New Mexico-style, late Spanish colonial period “great houses” remaining in the American Southwest. Serving as an important trade center and gathering place, the hacienda was the final terminus for the Camino Real, which connected Northern New Mexico to Mexico City. It was also the headquarters for an extensive ranching and farming operation.

Every room displays period artifacts from rifles to beds to looms and kitchen utensils.

Admission is $8 for adults, $7 seniors, $4 per child (5-15), free admission for children younger than 5, free admission for Taos County residents on Sundays; tour rates and discount cards for multiple visits are available.

THE HARWOOD MUSEUM OF ART 2 3 8 Le d o u x S t .

Ho u r s : We d n e s d a y S a t u r d a y, 10 a . m . - 5 p. m . ; S u n d a y, n o o n 5 p. m . C l o s e d Mo n d a y a n d Tu e s d a y. ( 57 5 ) 7 5 8 - 9 8 2 6 h a r wo o d m u s e u m . org

The Harwood Museum of Art showcases a permanent collection of more than 4,700

works and an archive of 17,000 photographs from the 19th century onward. In the early part of the 20th century, many artists – such as Agnes Martin – were drawn to the Taos area to pursue a new, truly American art devoid of industrial influence, inspired instead by New Mexico’s landscape and light and the traditional Native American and Hispanic cultures of the region.

The Harwood Museum collection brings to the public a unique record of this artistic convergence from its beginnings to the present day. The embracing spirit of the Harwood was established by artists Burt and Elizabeth Harwood.

Winter exhibits include geological formations by photographer Meredith Garcia; “Mulier Fortis: Work

by Women,” featuring pieces by women from The Harwood Museum collections; and the part-portraiture, partcollage paintings of Erin Currier. The museum also holds an open house during the annual Lighting of Ledoux on Dec. 2, 5-7 p.m.

The Taos Chamber Music Group performs special programs in the museum’s Arthur Bell Auditorium through May. See the calendar listings for details or check online at harwoodmuseum.org.

Admission is $10 per adult, $8 for seniors, $8 per student, free admission to youth (18 and younger), free admission to University of New Mexico students and faculty, free admission to members of the Harwood Museum of Art Alliance, free admission to Taos County residents on Sundays. continues pg. 60

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HACIENDA DEL SOL mls: 201702690 | $2,950,000 This turnkey historic inn consists of 4 buildings, including an owner’s residence, 12 guest rooms, living and dining rooms, a gallery, and a commercial kitchen.

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MILLICENT ROGERS ESTATE $2,900,000 The sale of Turtle Walk, the former home of Millicent Rogers, represented the highest-priced residential transaction in Taos County in more than five years.* Sotheby’s International Realty represented both sides of the sale.

41 STATE ROAD 230 mls: 201704700 | $2,899,000 Located 15 minutes from the Taos Sky Valley, this beautifully-detailed, 8BR, 9BA estate, on 12 acres, has an indoor pool and stunning views of Taos Mountain.

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CALLE FELIBERTO ROAD mls: 201704579 | $1,000,000 | 45.866 acres mls: 201601205 | $540,000 | 18.399 acres Spectacular panoramic mountain views and numerous building sites to build your dream home.

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640 DON NICOLAS mls: 201601280 | $995,000 Perched on a hill minutes from the Taos Plaza, this majestic 6BR, 4,000 sq. ft. hacienda on 4.4 acres is filled with Old World–inspired architecture and views.

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916 CAMINO DEL MEDIO mls: 201701049 | $875,000 This 32-acre retreat with breathtaking views includes a comfortable residence with chef ’s kitchen, a 3,000 sq. ft. greenhouse, acequia rights, and several wells.

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437 TUNE DRIVE mls: 201704042 | $510,000 This 2BR, 2BA home on 14.45 acres was built using the “Cast Earth” model invention of Harris Lowenhaupt.

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513 ZIA STREET mls: 201700373 | $498,500 In the center of Taos and restored with exceptional detail, this home offers 4BR and 4BA, spacious open living areas, and a backyard with a portal and deck.

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WINTER ESCAPES AT GHOST

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O’Keeffe Landscape Tours & Trail Rides Archaeology & Paleontology Museums Overnight Stay & Lodging

Rio Grande Pueblo Winter Solstice Feasts & Dances: December 22-27, 2017 Valentines Weekend & Robert Mirabal Concert: February 9-11, 2018 Weekend Winter Art Escapes: February 16-19, 2018

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We love the places you love. The Taos Land Trust is committed to protecting our working lands, open spaces and trails for you and future generations to come. Help us by donating now.

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KIT CARSON HOME AND MUSEUM

THE MILLICENT ROGERS MUSEUM

1 13 K i t C a r s o n Road Ho u r s : D a i l y Nove m b e r t h r o u g h Fe b r u a r y, 10 a . m . - 4 p. m . ( 57 5 ) 7 5 8 - 4 9 4 5

1 50 4 M i l l i c e n t Rogers Road Ho u r s : Tu e s d a y S u n d a y, Nov. 1 t h r o u g h Ma r c h 3 1 , 10 a . m . - 5 p. m .

The museum is c l o s e d Mo n d a y s , T h a n k s g i v i n g D a y, C h r i s t m a s D a y, Ne w Ye a r ’ s D a y a n d E a s t e r S u n d a y.

kitca rson mu seu m. org

Taos’ oldest museum is the home of Christopher “Kit” Carson, frontiersman, trapper, soldier and scout. The Kit Carson Home and Museum, still standing in its original footprint on Kit Carson Road in Taos, was built circa 1825 and purchased by Carson as a wedding gift for his third wife, Maria Josefa Jaramillo, a member of a prominent Taos family. The territorial-style adobe building was to be their home for the next 25 years. Seven of their eight children were born and raised in the home, along with several Native American children who had been freed by the Carsons from captivity. The Carsons moved to Fort Garland, Colorado, in 1866, leaving many of their possessions behind. After the death of Josefa on April 27, 1868, and Kit shortly thereafter on May 23, 1868, the home changed ownership six times before it was purchased in 1911 by the Grand Masonic Lodge of New Mexico to be maintained as a memorial to Freemason Kit Carson in perpetuity.

Admission is $7 per adult, $6 for seniors, $5 for teens and students, free to children younger than 12, $5 tour groups of 10 or more, free to Kit Carson Home and Museum members, free to Taos County residents every Sunday, free to active military personnel and free to Masonic members.

( 57 5 ) 7 5 8 - 2 4 6 2 m i l l icentrogers.org

Now in its 60th year, this grand hacienda was established as a memorial to Millicent Rogers, whose inspiration, patronage and collections form the cores of its holdings.

Rogers (1902-1953) was the granddaughter of Henry Huttleston Rogers, one of the founders of the Standard Oil Company. At her homes in New York, Virginia, Italy and elsewhere, she entertained the great and splendid from American industrialists to European nobility.

She was the fashionista of her day. In her later years, she visited and eventually settled in Taos. Here, she became close friends with many of the founding members of the Taos artist colony. Her namesake museum houses 15 galleries featuring the heritage of the Southwest, including jewelry, paintings and pottery — such as the family collection of works by heralded San Ildefonso Pueblo potter Maria Martinez.

The majority of the museum’s galleries, housing more than 6,000 objects, are representative of the diverse indigenous and Hispanic cultures of the Southwest with particular strengths in the traditional arts of Northern New Mexico.

The museum rotates its collections on a frequent basis throughout

the galleries.

Exhibits and events this winter season include the annual Holiday Fiesta, Dec. 2, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; “Picturing Home, Plants and Animals of the Southwest” (through April 2018); “Corn, Sacred Giver of Life” (through Jan. 31, 2018); “Feast Days, A Cycle of Faith” (through Jan. 31, 2018); “La Familia” (including the Suazos, Barelas, Trujillos, Salazars and Graves), (through April 1, 2018); “To Honor Millicent” (through April 1, 2018); the annual “Miniature Show,” (Feb. 9-March 4, 2018); Taos Pueblo Winter Showcase (March 9-11, 2018); and the Taos Arts Club/ Teen Art Studio drawings (April 11-May 6, 2018).

The hacienda was the residence of Mr. and Mrs. Claude Anderson, friends of Rogers. It was donated by the family and has been added onto over the years.

Admission is $10 per adult, $8 for seniors (60+), $6 for military (active or veteran), $6 for students (16-21 with ID), $2 per child (6-16), free admission for children younger than 6, free admission for Taos County residents; tour rates and discount cards for multiple visits are available.

TAOS ART MUSEUM AT FECHIN HOUSE 2 27 Pa s e o d e l P u e b l o No r t e Ho u r s : Nov. 1 t h r o u g h A p r i l 3 0, Tu e s d a y – S u n d a y, 10 a . m . – 4 p. m . ( 57 5 ) 7 5 8 - 2 69 0, e x t . 10 1 fo r f r o n t des k or ext. 206 fo r M u s e u m S t o r e taosa r tmu seu m.org

This is the former home and studio of artist Nicolai Ivanovich Fechin, showcasing a blend of early 20thcentury Russian and Southwestern artworks.

TOP: MILLICENT ROGERS MUSEUM INCLUDES 20 GALLERIES SHOWCASING NATIVE AMERICAN ARTS, HISPANIC ARTS AND CRAFTS, ROG ERS’ 1,000-PIECE SILVER AND TURQUOISE JEWELRY COLLECTION, SOME OF HER HAUTE COUTURE CLOTHING AND CERAMICS CREATED

BY FAMED POT TER MARIA MARTINEZ. SCOT T GERDES MIDDLE: CONTEMPOR ARY ART IS ONE OF MANY ST YLES REPRESENTED AT THE HARWOOD MUSEUM OF ART. SCOT T GERDES / BOT TOM: THE HOME OF ARTIST NICOLAI FECHIN CONTAINS SOME OF HIS ORIGINAL ARTWORK ALONG WITH RUSSIAN-, SPANISH- AND PUEBLO-INSPIRED ARCHITECTURAL STYLES. SCOT T GERDES

Fechin built the home for his family between 1927 and 1933. Fechin, born in Kazan, Russia, in 1881, carved and molded the adobe buildings into a fascinating, harmonic marriage of Russian, American Indian, art deco and Hispanic motifs. Today,

it houses art by the Taos Society of Artists in a lovely garden setting within walking distance of the entire Taos historic district and offers content-rich programming for adults and children.

This winter’s exhibitions include “The Art

of Walt Gonske: A Retrospective.” Enjoy a close look at the work of an artist whose art has embodied the Southwest for four decades.

The exhibition will run through Sunday, Jan. 7, 2018.

Also on exhibit is “International Taos,” which portrays the international influences that remarkably found expression in Taos in the first half of the 20th century. Based on selections from the museum’s permanent collection, the exhibition demonstrates the fascination that the landscapes, people and cultures of Taos have held for artists from around the world. The exhibition will run from Oct. 20, 2017, through Feb. 4, 2018.

Ongoing programs this winter include “Learning the Collections,” a series of monthly gallery talks that engages participants in looking at artwork up close and from the deep perspectives of history and sharing their observations. “Meet the Artist” is a another monthly program in which an artist is asked to share and demonstrate their creative process and their work with visitors for one Saturday afternoon between noon-4 p.m. Call ahead or check the museum’s website for scheduled days and times for the ongoing programs.

Admission is $10 per adult, $9 for seniors, $6 per student, $8 per person in groups of 10 or more, free admission to children younger than 12, free admission on Sundays for Taos County residents. Private tours are available.

It is always free to visit the museum grounds and store.

— Compiled by Scott Gerdes

WINTER/SPRING 2018

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La Tierra Mineral Gallery

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12 Historic Buildings

Max Evans Room • Veterans Exhibit • Stagecoach 1946 Aeronca Champ Airplane 1938 Plymouth Coupe World Champion Drag Racer Lea County Sports Hall of Fame • 1915 Mercantile Art Gallery • Oil and Gas Room • 1918 Hotel One-room School • And Dozens of History Exhibits

124-K Bent St. Taos, NM 87571 Latierra1111.com 575.758.0101 www.latierra.com

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THE ONLY GUIDE DEVOTED EXCLUSIVELY TO TAOS COUNTY GALLERIES, ARTISTS, AND STUDIOS.

Read Northern New Mexico’s Premier Arts Guide online at

galleryguideoftaos.com ‘A Man of Taos,’ Tony Lujan, Taos Pueblo,” 1930. Ansel Adams, Gelatin silver print. 17 5⁄16 x 13 in. Collection for Creative Photography, The University of Arizona © 2015 The Ansel Adams Publishing Rights Trust.

OFF THE HOOK

E N T E R TAI NME N T

In the red zone Catch the game at these Taos sports spots

BY ARCENIO J. TRUJILLO

In the mood to nibble on some distinct stadium food or local cuisine while you cheer on your favorite sports team? How about trying a locally brewed beer while you enjoy a game or two on a big screen surrounded by sports aficionados and foodies alike?

SCOTT GERDES

If this is how you like to watch sports, there are bars/restaurants in the Taos area dedicated to providing a steady stream of highdefinition sports action and a unique customer experience. Despite the fact that there are no professional football, basketball or hockey teams based in New Mexico, there are geographical alliances that exist here. Anecdotally, most bartenders would admit that a majority of locals are either Denver Broncos or Dallas Cowboys fans, but none claim their establishments as the “headquarters” of any particular team. And if you’re into other sports, like basketball, hockey, boxing or soccer, these multiple-viewing establishments can help satisfy your competitive sweet tooth with just a request to change the channel.

575 SPORTS & CO. 1 109 Pa s e o d e l P u e b l o S u r, Ta o s

Located on the south side of town off the main drag, the 575 Sports & Co. establishment is full of surprises.

Along with its unique sports memorabilia collection and ambiance, its themed menu is sure to please a hungry group of sports fans.

Perhaps you’ve heard of famous stadium favorites, such as the “Halo Dog” from Anaheim, California; a barbecue stuffed baked potato from Houston, Texas; Gilroy garlic fries from San Francisco, California; corn off the cob from Chicago (White Sox), Illinois; or a “Juicy Lucy Slider” from Minneapolis, Minnesota. It’s here that you can get

those specialty dishes that aim to replicate that hometown taste.

Not claiming loyalties to any particular team or sport, 575 has seven big-screen TVs with many of them showing games in real time.

During the National Football League (NFL) season and playoffs, the venue has an all-day happy hour on Sundays.

During halftime or commercial breaks, patrons can toss darts at the two boards. For more information, visit facebook.com/monicanluciano or call (575) 779-8486.

THE BURGER STAND AT TAOS ALE HOUSE 40 1 Pa s e o d e l P u e b l o No r t e , Ta o s

Just north of Taos Plaza, you’ll find a great

game-day spot that serves up gourmet burgers; “Hawt” dogs; small-batch, housebrewed craft beers; “Duck Fat Fries”; todie-for “Truffle Fries”; and an eclectic selection of dipping sauces.

On Sundays, wings and “micheladas” are the signature munchies.

Maybe most importantly, the Burger Stand at Taos Ale House has multiple large flat screens and a pool table for your Sunday or Monday night pleasure – or pain, depending on how your team played.

Visit taosburgersandbeer.com or call (575) 758-5522.

GORGE BAR & GRILL Ta o s P l a z a

Conveniently located on historic Taos Plaza, the Gorge Bar & Grill offers “fresh and modern” casual dining, including a variety of menu selections such as fresh oysters, bison sliders, grilled salmon, green chile chicken Alfredo and juicy burgers. “The Gorge,” as it’s called by locals, features a large, three-sided bar with a TV on each side and a great selection of craft beers. The patio boasts a bird’s-eye view of the Plaza. Visit thegorgebarandgrill.com or call (575) 758-8866.

KTAOS SOLAR CENTER 9 S t a t e R o a d 1 50, j u s t n o r t h of E l Prado

If you find yourself on the northern part of town and want to avoid a trip into town, the KTAOS Solar Center offers all the Sunday amenities – full bar and restaurant – for sports fans, too. The Solar Center offers a spacious lounge with gigantic windows that allow unobstructed views of Taos Mountain and the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. If patrons wish to step outside for an even better view, all-weather speakers pipe the sounds of the game out to the courtyard for an uninterrupted play-byplay broadcast of the action. Happy hour is all day Sunday and brunch specials are available when the Solar Center opens at 11 a.m. Visit ktao.com/SolarCenter or call (575) 758-5826.

THE MARTINI TREE BAR Ta o s S k i Va l l e y

If you’re up in the mountains of Taos Ski Valley and don’t want to come down, no worries.

This popular spot for après-ski offers comfort food, local craft drafts, cocktails, live entertainment and sports is just upstairs from Rho-

daww’s Restaurant.

The Taos Ski Valley mainstay gathering place has seven flatscreen TVs. Visit skitaos. com/things-to-do/ martini-tree or call (575) 776-2291, ext.

2285.

TAOS MESA BREWING TAOS TAP ROOM 2 0 1 Pa s e o d e l P u e b l o N o r t e , Ta o s

The newest addition to the Taos bar scene, the Taos Tap Room is conveniently situated near the historic Plaza in downtown Taos. Welllit and spacious, Taos Tap Room features an all-day happy hour on Sundays for the NFL crowds. There are six flat-screen televisions inside the multiroom restaurant and lounge that includes a recreation area with a billiards table, foosball table and a Vogelpiks (Belgian dart game) board. Known for its exceptional locally crafted stouts and fruit beers, Taos Tap Room is just the place to try something new this season. Game day specials are offered on Saturday and Sunday from noon to 6 p.m. and on Monday and Thursday starting at 6:30 p.m.

Visit taosmesabrewing. com or call (575) 758-1900.

“Hidden Gem�

review

575.776.3333 Located on Ski Valley Road, 470 State Highway 150 in Arroyo Seco sabrosotaos.com

medley. offers something good for everyone. hours. “Food and service was the best ever!� – KURT W., TRIP ADVISOR

try our new menu of snacks, small plates, and mains. meet friends & family in our dining room, bar or our outdoor patios for a laid-back scene. take a look at all our menus —including wine, cocktails, kid’s and dessert—at medleytaos.com

wine shop hours. happy hour: tues-sun, 4-6p mon-sat, 11-9p dinner: tues-sun, 5:30-9p sun, 12-9p location.

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RESTAURANT AND BAR 11:30am - 1am Mon-Sat 11:30am - 12am Sun Food until 11pm Every Day

THE ‘FIFTH WONDER OF TAOS’ GERAINT SMITH

Silently, but elegantly standing just to the side of State Road 68 in the Ranchos Plaza in Ranchos de Taos are thick, curving, organic adobe walls with visible strands of hay meshed within the dried clay.

From the road, you see the back of this historic structure – an architectural blessing that has stood for centuries as a place of faith. Its back side, in particular, has been as a model for many an artist, including Georgia O’Keeffe and Ansel Adams. When you first come upon it, you are looking at its back side, which is probably more recognizable to most people.

This “Fifth Wonder of Taos,” as local author and historian F.R. Bob Romero calls it in his book, “History of Taos,” is San Francisco de Asís Roman Catholic Church. It was named for Saint Francis of Assisi (born in 1181 at Assisi in Umbria, Italy), the patron saint of animals, merchants and ecology.

More than 200 years old, the church raised by Spanish colonists was completed in 1815. The exact year of when construction commenced is not certain. But it is the oldest existing Roman Catholic church structure in Taos Valley. The plaza in which it sits is older than Taos Plaza. Built in the 1700s, Ranchos Plaza was erected for protection against nomadic Indian raids.

In the mid-18th century, Spanish colonists moved just south from the bigger American Indian and Spanish community at Taos Pueblo to grow wheat and corn in the fertile land. The Comanches were attracted to the rich Taos Valley earth and often raided the settlers. To defend themselves, they built their adobe homes close to one another around a common plaza. The mission church sits in the middle.

San Francisco de Asís Church still serves as a place of worship today, along with being a popular tourist attraction. Mass is open to the public, including during Christmas and Easter services.

San Francisco de Asís Church is a National Historic Landmark.

The fact that it houses Henri Ault’s famous mystery painting also piques many a visitor’s curiosity.

Every year during the first two weeks in June, this church experiences something else that makes it a different kind of place – the “enjarre,” or the remudding of its adobe facade. Adding a new layer of fresh adobe keeps it from cracking and crumbling.

Parishioners and volunteers come together every year to help maintain this important structure in a most traditional way.

— Scott Gerdes

ReNeux

womens fine consignment | retail | locally made items 126-B W. Plaza Drive ¡ Taos, NM 575-758-4460

Fun, Funky, Fabulous Finds over 13,000 sq feet of furniture, clothing & household goods

Pieces - 1024 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos 575-737-0500 www.piecestaos.com Pieces Taos on FB

575-758-1256 taosmoxie.com

treasure hunting SHOPPI NG

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OTHER WOMEN’S SHOPS AROUND TAOS

COURTESY WANDERER

FRANCESCA’S CLOTHING BOUTIQUE

“Ashley did that and more,” Irion says.

“Infusing her style of the desert wanderer into contemporary midcentury design, our trailers have been transformed into something timeless that speak to the soul.”

Some future plans are for Arabian to help to create and run a product line and gift shop for Hotel Luna Mystica.

It is worth nothing that Arabian knows products. “I feature local jewelers, local apothecary items, local teas, beauty products for yourself or to bring home as souvenirs. In winter, everybody’s skin is dry, so I have face lotion, lip balms and skin-healing salves and lotions,” she says.

As a merchant, Arabian takes her place in the long legacy of downtown Taos as an active trading and commerce center.

“I like the idea of having my own little store.

You can feel the history in Taos. It’s stunning to be up front and center. This is such a gift,” Arabian says.

Wanderer is located at 110 Paseo del Pueblo Norte. Visit wanderertaos.com to buy a gift certificate, host a private party at the store or have an item shipped to you.

For more information, call (575) 224-2626 or email hello@wandererboutique.com.

492 State Road 150, Arroyo Seco; (575) 776-8776 The perpetual Best of Taos winner is known for its slogan “What a great time to be a girl.” Francesca’s carries comfy, feel-good apparel and yummy fabrics, such as silks from India, Thai dyes from Thailand and cottons from Hard Tail active wear.

jackets, as well as a range of women’s clothing, footwear and accessories.

SAM’S SHOP 109 Bent St., Taos; (575) 758-4496; samsshoptaos.com Located in downtown Taos, Sam’s Shop is celebrating 40 years of contemporary women’s clothing in a groovy historic adobe building.

MOXIE

SPOTTED BEAR

216-B Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos; (575) 758-1256; taosmoxie.com The pre-eminent source for right-priced, fair trade items – including women's, men’s and children’s clothing, as well as accessories.

127 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos; (575) 758-3040 Unique and fashionable clothing and accessories for any occasion.

OVERLAND SHEEPSKIN COMPANY 1405 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, El Prado; (575) 758-8820; overland.com Specializes in leather, sheepskin, fur, wool, fabric and down coats and

SUBSTANCE 102 Doña Luz St., Taos; (575) 751-0992; substanceoftaos.com Clothing and accessories are thoughtfully chosen and translate easily into an existing wardrobe.

Pieces are selected for their beauty, detail, function and quality.

A Womens Boutique good vibe clothing accessories & so much more

136 1 36 Pa Paseo del Pueblo Norte Taos NM 575.751.3450 IG: @michellesbeach

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Your Parent-Teacher Place to Shop.

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treasure hunting SHO P PI NG

Southwestern swag

this shop gives you a good idea of the plethora of items inside, where you’ll find all things for home décor with that Mexico and Southwest vibe. There is a large selection of rustic Mexican furniture and some Southwestern pieces made with locally harvested wood.

Give yourself time to look around the large inventory.

Family owned and operated, there is a piece of the Southwest around every corner, on every shelf. From ceramics hand-painted by patriarch Rafael Diaz to outdoor planters, decorative wooden ladders and tin switch plates, Casa del Sol is a lot Mexico and a lot New Mexico.

CAMINO REAL IMPORTS 9 a.m.-6:30 p.m. daily 1305 Paseo del Pueblo Norte; (575) 758-7999

DWELLINGS REVISITED TAOS NEWS FILE PHOTO/ TINA LARKIN

Your time in Taos has been spent on the mountain, around the Plaza or maybe even in a spa.

But it's time to go and you want to take a piece of the mythical, vivd and spiritual Southwest with you. How do you know what gift(s) to buy yourself or someone else? The following shops have your memories of Taos in hand with unique, individualistic curios and artistic gifts to soothe your soul — or to put a little Southwestern soul into someone else's world — until you return to Taos once again. And if you're looking for paintings, sculptures and even more pottery, there are many outstanding galleries. To help in that quest, pick up a Gallery Guide found on racks in hotels, restaurants and other establishments all around town.

ARROYO SECO MERCANTILE

BRYAN'S GALLERY

10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. daily; 500 State Road 150, Arroyo Seco (575) 776-8806

11 a.m.-5 p.m. daily through the end of January, then closed Monday. Open 11 a.m.4 p.m. Sunday.

121 Kit Carson Road (575) 758-9407 bryansgallery.com

Housed in a landmark building built in 1895 in the small 200-yearold village on the road to Taos Ski Valley, the "Mercantile" is one of those shops that you can spend a lot of time looking around in. For sale are antiques, old pawn jewelry, souvenirs and "unusual finds." The wide selection of goods even includes household, hardware and religious items, artwork, candles and candy.

Housed in a brickand-mortar building on historic Kit Carson Road, just steps from Taos Plaza, since 1982, Bryan’s Gallery has been showcasing quality artistry of the Southwest and eight northern pueblos.

They shop has a fine selection of estate and contemporary paint-

ings, sculpture, pottery, jewelry, baskets and rugs. Bryan’s is known for offering some of the finest rare examples of Southwestern American Indian arts and crafts with pieces from about 75 local artists – including about a dozen local jewelry artists. Bryan’s really has a little bit of everything.

CAMINO REAL GALLERY 9 a.m.-6 p.m. daily 724 Paseo del Pueblo Norte (575) 751-7446 One look at the Mexican-style furniture and metal art outside

Talavera dishes, metal yard art, planters, wall hangings, copper sinks, hand-blown glassware, purses, ponchos, custom furniture, chimeneas, tin and ceramic gifts — family-owned Camino Real Imports has everything that is "hecho en México."

Items are also imported from Latin America. Be ready to spend some time perusing; this is a big space. There is something for everyone at this cultural gift store.

SCOT T GERDES

COUNTRY FURNISHINGS OF TAOS DECOR & GIFTS 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m., Monday-Saturday, closed Sunday; 534 Paseo del Pueblo Norte; (575) 758-4633 cftaos.com A fixture in town, Country Furnishings of Taos has been located in an old adobe building on Paseo del Pueblo

cards and a great variety of gift items all presented in a whimsical, artistic, eclectic atmosphere.

COYOTE MOON 10 a.m.-6 p.m. daily 120-C Bent St. (575) 758-4437 johndunnshops.com This colorful store in the historic John Dunn Shops leans toward Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) items with intricately made altars and folk art featuring skeletons, angels and devils. You can also find religious-themed art, prints, Mexican masks, tinworks, turquoise jewelry, beaded art and even psychedelicpainted animals.

DWELLINGS REVISITED 10:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. daily; 107-B Bent St.; (575) 758-3377 More than a place to pick up a souvenir, this diverse Taos shop

CASA CRISTAL POTTERY 9 a.m.-6 p.m. daily 1306 Paseo del Pueblo Norte; (575) 758-1530 casacristalpottery .com Southwest décor to the nth degree, familyowned Casa Cristal Pottery offers a large selection of talavera, hand-painted Mexican and Navajo pottery, chimeneas, ristras, tin mirrors, tin light switch covers, Zapotec Indian rugs, ceramic outdoor suns, Mexican glassware and Southwest-style jewelry. The store’s specialty is rustic Mexican furniture. No made in China here.

CASA DEL SOL 9 a.m.-6 p.m. daily 1638 Paseo del Pueblo Norte; (575) 758-7496

SCOT T GERDES

Norte since its inception in 1986. A great place to browse — the merchandise is colorful, innovative and fun. Find such gems as artwork made from repurposed materials, jewelry and paintings created by local artists, fun decorative pillows, aromatic candles, cookbooks,

offers a large selection of unusual Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) items, milagros and retablos, folk art masks, architectural salvage and American Indian glass Christmas ornaments. There is not enough room here to adequately list all of the primitives and oddities. continues pg. 98

AN ECLECTIC STORE WITH WHIMSICAL, ARTISTIC DÉCOR AND GIFTS BLUE SKY PET AND FEED SUPPLY IS AN INDEPENDENTLY OWNED PET SUPPLY STORE

TO FIT EVERYONE’S TASTE.

BLUE SKY PET & FEED SUPPLY has the essentials to keep your pets healthy and happy.

214 PASEO DEL PUEBLO SUR Mon-Fri 9am-5:30pm · Sat 10am-4pm · 575-758-1841

Ride the RTD Chile Line TSV Green route fare-free from the Town of Taos to Taos Ski Valley

this winter and leave the driving to us! Avoid parking and be dropped off near the ticket window! Now with stops in Arroyo Seco and Valdez!

For route and schedule information please visit

CFT Decor & Gifts

RidetheBlueBus.com

OPEN: MON-SAT 10-5:30 CLOSED SUNDAY 534 PASEO DEL PUEBLO NORTE, TAOS (575) 758-4633 • CFTAOS.COM

EL ANIMAL DE TAOS: THE COYOTE GERAINT SMITH

Canis Iatrans, more commonly known as the coyote, is one of Northern New Mexico’s most common wildlife sightings — on land, that is.

This omnivore is smaller than wolves and is a member of the canine family. It can be easily mistaken for a dog at a quick glance, but its bushy tail is a dead giveaway.

American Indian tales and traditions often cast the coyote as a shrewd mammal. It is one of several North American animals whose names have American Indian roots. The Spanish word “coyote” was originally the word coyotl, the name given to the animal by the Nahuatl (Aztec). In Taos Pueblo storytelling history, the coyote is a prominent character. He often symbolizes the trickster and the mischievous one — the wily coyote. “And sometimes, coyote is the bully that picks on other creatures,” said Taos Pueblo painter and writer Jonathan Warm Day Coming.

Coyotes adapt to the best food source available, whether hunting on the mesas or in the mountains. On their menu is just about

anything, including frogs, mice, insects, grass and even house cats. They often hunt rabbits and prairie dogs around these parts and have been known to take sheep. They form groups of two to three in the winter for more effective hunting and can run up to an impressive 40 miles per hour.

Coyotes are excellent swimmers and have a very strong sense of smell, which aids them in the hunt and the escape. The coyote’s main predators are wolves, bears and, of course, humans. They can live up to 14 years in the wild.

The captivating and emotional chorus of the coyote is maybe its most recognizable attribute. Their distinctive howls, high-pitched cries and yelps are a means of communication. At night or during the light of dawn — if you’re lucky — you can hear them echoing through the mountainsides.

— Scott Gerdes

Socorro

Visit

A Year-Round Destination and Celebration…

of HISTORY TECHNOLOGY BIRDS AND ENCHANTED SKIES

IMMERSIVE CULTURAL & ACTIVE TAOS TOURS

Socorro Heritage & Visitor Center .

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info@heritageinspirations.com http://heritageinspirations.com

217 Fisher Avenue, Socorro, NM 87801 575-835-8927 +(,)%*& *(!())('& #(- / ... *(!())('& #(-

Happiness is...

First tracks on fresh snow... make your mark in Taos County!

www.taoscounty.org

STOKED ADVE N T U R E

Nature’s snow slide Taos Avalanche Center makes for a safer mountain

BY ANDY DENNISON

TAOS SKI VALLEY SNOW SAFETY DIRECTOR RACHEL MOSCARELLA, HER DOG, HAT TIE, WHO HAS RETIRED AFTER SERVING AS AN AVALANCHE RESCUE DOG FOR 11 YEARS, AND SKI PATROL'S BOB "WILLY" WILLET TE WITH DANIN AND TIGGER. TINA LARKIN

WINTER/SPRING 2018

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STOKED ADVE N T U R E

Walking in a winter wonderland Hiking and snowshoeing in Taos

BY CINDY BROWN

RITA DANIELS AND HER DOG, TI-LE, SNOWSHOEING IN THE WHEELER PEAK WILDERNESS AREA. KATHARINE EGLI

There is a special kind of magic in being outdoors in the winter.

The woods are quiet and the sun shines off the There is a special kind of magic in being outdoors in the winter. The woods are quiet and the sun shines off the crystalline formations of snow and ice. Tracks of wildlife are visible in the snow. A glimpse of a bighorn sheep or a bald eagle soaring above the Río Grande is not uncommon.

Downhill and cross-country skiing provide perhaps the most thrilling way to experience the outdoors in winter. But if you want to slow down from time to time and really notice the magic and the changes that winter brings to the landscape, cool weather hiking may be for you.

Jamie Ash is a longtime local who hikes and snowshoes throughout the winter months, often at high elevation. She says, “In winter, it is all about

shape, the entire area becomes a sculpture. There are places where springs emerge just off the trails and in winter, the snow forms peaks and valleys, soft undulations, which change each day with new snow or new melt. I love to get to tree line and feel the wildness of the place.”

In order to stay safe and warm, winter hiking and snowshoeing require thought and preparation.

Waterproof boots and layering of warm clothes help ensure that your experience outdoors will be comfortable and safe. Because the trails look different when covered with snow, it is especially important to bring a map, compass and GPS, if possible, when setting out on an unfamiliar trail.

Here are some suggestions to get you outside this winter:

EASY

WEST RIM IN THE RÍO GRANDE DEL NORTE NATIONAL MONUMENT When starting out hiking this winter, you might want to begin on a flat trail close to town to test out your equipment, clothing and fitness. In the Río Grande del Norte National Monument, the West Rim Trail offers an easy option over rolling hills, with views to the east of Taos Mountain and El Salto.

The West Rim Trail begins at the Río Grande Gorge Bridge and continues south for 9 miles. A winter hike over the sage-covered terrain can begin at the rest area near the bridge. If you are looking for more solitude, go past the bridge and turn left on the West Rim Road toward Ojo Caliente and Pilar.

Follow the road for 8 miles until you see the sign and

trailhead parking. You can access the south end of the West Rim Trail here.

The southern section begins with a dip down into a basin that can offer protection from the wind that sometimes blows here. Crossing several arroyos, the trail leads to various bluffs that overlook the Río Grande. As the river flows south, the gorge widens. The rocky cliffs are layers of earth exposed by the rift in the continent that pulled the land apart on the Taos Plateau.

The mesa is covered by low-growing piñón (pine) and sage that provide cover for cottontail rabbits and coyotes. Bighorn sheep are often spotted along the edge of the gorge. Other animals that might be seen here include mule deer, gray fox and long-tailed weasel. Most dramatic of all is the sighting of the bald eagles that make the Río Grande home from late fall to early spring.

Early in the season, the snow is likely to be light and to melt quickly. With the approach of January, the snow often begins to stick here and cover the ground, providing a perfect place to try out your snowshoes before venturing into the high country.

MODER ATE

WILLIAMS LAKE IN WHEELER PEAK WILDERNESS One of the most popular trails during the summer, the trail to Williams Lake takes on a quieter, more contemplative character during the winter.

Although the trail does begin among the skiers at Taos Ski Valley, as you make your way toward the lake, there are fewer skiers and the quiet begins.

This is a moderately challenging hike at high elevation with more intense winter weather – you may want to work up to it gradually.

This 2-mile trail begins at 10,200 feet and climbs steadily to rise just above 11,000 feet at Williams Lake. From the parking lot on Deer Lane, walk down the hill past the Bavarian Restaurant. Head past the Phoenix Grill and look for the signs around the Kachina chairlift. If the espresso shack is open, it is worth a slight detour to pick up a warm coffee drink or hot chocolate.

Walk along the Río Hondo where hikers share the road with skiers and snowboarders returning to the chairlift. Bear left to stay on the trail as it moves into the woods and follows a series of switchbacks.

The forest opens to the left, revealing some slide shoots on the steep mountain side. After returning to the woods for a moderate uphill climb, views open up, exposing the boulder fields that are often buried deep in snow. After traversing a final boulder field, climb up to the crest of the hill to see Williams Lake spread out before you in its glittering and icy glory. Bighorn sheep may be grazing nearby.

The snow will accumulate here and be quite deep before the season is over. By January, plan to bring

snowshoes, especially after a new snow. You can tell it is time for snowshoes when you begin to sink into the snow, called “post holing.” You may want to bring both snowshoes and some sort of traction device, like Yaktrax or microspikes, and check out the conditions when you arrive. Snowshoes require more effort, but do provide good stability. Poles can be helpful in maintaining balance and helping you move along.

The road to the hikers’ parking lot on Deer Lane is open during the winter, but requires a four-wheeldrive vehicle this time of year due to the snowy and sometimes icy conditions.

C HALLE NG I NG

MANZANITA CANYON IN THE COLUMBINE HONDO WILDERNESS The road that leads to Taos Ski Valley passes through the canyon cut by the Río Hondo. Along this road, there are four trailheads that are generally accessible in the winter, except right after a big snowstorm when the plows leave a lot of snow by the roadside. The trailhead for Manzanita Canyon has the biggest parking area and is the most likely to be plowed during the winter. It is found at mile marker 11 on State Road 150 – the road to Taos Ski Valley.

Manzanita Canyon begins at 8,400 feet and climbs to Lobo Ridge at 11,800 and Lobo Peak at 12,115. The trail begins in a stand of evergreens and crosses a stream near the start of the trail.

Unlike other nearby trails, Manzanita does not have numerous creek crossings early in the hike, making it easier once ice and snow cover the trail.

After a steady climb, there is an open meadow under a cliff to the right, which makes a great destination for a short hike. After this point, the trail rejoins the stream and begins to cross it with more frequency. After the ninth crossing, the trail climbs out of the canyon to the right side. There are some steep sections interspersed with flatter meadow areas. From the trailhead, it is about 4.2 miles to the ridge. Here, Manzanita meets Yerba Canyon trail and from this point, it is about a half-mile climb to Lobo Peak.

From the ridge and peak, there are expansive views in all directions. You can return down Manzanita or on Yerba. These are long, steep trails and winter conditions add additional challenges. Be prepared for wind and snow, especially as you get closer to the ridge.

Any of these trails or the others near Taos provide the opportunity to get out and enjoy the headclearing, heart-pumping experience of being in nature during the sparkling clear or snowy days of winter.

BIGHORN SHEEP ARE AT HOME IN THE RÍO GRANDE GORGE. GERAINT SMITH / BELOW: BALD EAGLES ARE A COMMON SIGHT IN TAOS, ESPECIALLY AROUND THE RÍO GRANDE. PHOTOS BY GERAINT SMITH

SAFETY TIPS Watch weather reports

TIPS FOR SNOWSHOES ON SLOPES

“Getting up to the ridge and the big views means I have to traverse one 30-degree and one 35-degree slope,” Let someone know where you are going and when you says Jamie Ash, a longtime local who hikes and snowwill be back shoes throughout the winter months. “I always approach Know your own limits them carefully. I press the Watch out for signs of uphill edge of my snowshoe hypothermia, like dizziness, down into the slope so I nausea and disorientation make a solid, flat step. If — return to lower elevation I am breaking the trail, I will usually stomp down once or twice, so I make sure my footing is good before I take another step.” She uses a snowshoe that is designed to bite into the snow and hold on.

Check avalanche reports at taosavalanchecenter.org

STOKED ADVE N T U R E

Aaaaaah

Soothing soaks, masterful massages, renewed skin Whether under a brisk winter’s starry sky or wrapped in a peaceful, feng shui indoor environment, there’s something magical and rejuvenating about floating weightlessly in a hot tub or in natural hot springs or surrendering yourself to a deep-tissue massage – especially after a day of skiing or hiking.

for thousands of years. In fact, Ojo Caliente is the only hot springs in the world with four different types of mineral water, including lithia, iron, soda and arsenic. The layout of the property is spacious. Eleven pools are filled with different types and combinations of waters with temperatures ranging from 80-109 degrees.

And maybe nowhere is more heralded for its restorative properties than Northern New Mexico’s Ojo Caliente (“Hot Spring”) Mineral Springs Resort & Spa.

Ojo Caliente is a full-service spa destination.

Accommodations range from the historic hotel to cottages and suites. So if there is someone in your party who doesn’t ski or snowboard, you may want to consider just booking your lodging at Ojo. After all, your non-skiing friend will not be bored.

Hiking and yoga may be done on-site, as well as a variety of spa treatments for the body and mind.

The dining at the Artesian Restaurant is sumptuous in a casual, yet charming atmosphere.

A visit to Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa is an unforgettable experience and its natural setting against the desert cliffs is incomparable.

Ojo Caliente, which opened to the public in 1868, is more than “old” springs; the springs are ancient.

Ojo Caliente has been a gathering place and a source of healing for thousands of years.

The use of its waters can be traced back to the earliest human migrations in the region. The ancestors of today’s Native American Tewa tribes built large pueblos and terraced gardens overlooking the springs. Surrounding the more than 100,000 gallons of percolating waters that rise to the surface are excavated ruins of the pueblos. Posi or Poseouinge, “village at the place of the green bubbling hot springs,” was the largest of four pueblos that encircled the springs and was home to thousands of people.

The famous spa offers a number of winter packages, including the “Ski, Soak & Stay Special.”

Skiers can bring their lift tickets or season passes from any New Mexico ski resort and receive either 20 percent off entry to the mineral springs or 20 percent off any room for an overnight stay. The offer excludes holiday periods. This popular bone defroster and après-ski destination commences in the early days of the ski season on Dec. 1 and

runs through April 30 after the ski season ends, so ski patrols and staff of New Mexico ski resorts can take advantage of this offer. Contact the resort for specific dates, other terms and conditions and more winter packages.

For outdoor adventurers staying in Taos, Ojo Caliente is only 37 miles south of town. The drive on U.S. 64 over the Río Grande Gorge Bridge is not to be missed. The West Rim Road is paved and the drive is smooth – though keep an eye out for runaway cows at night!

Day-trippers returning to points south (such as Santa Fe or Albuquerque) are encouraged to take another way home via U.S. 285 – off which Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa is located.

This route avoids the stop-and-go traffic lights through the middle of Taos and instead takes you on a beautiful and relaxing drive without the hassle. Pop in for a soak at Ojo along the way – your mind and body will thank you.

OJO CALIENTE MINERAL SPRINGS RESORT & SPA IS LOCATED AT 50 LOS BANOS DRIVE, STATE ROAD 414, OJO CALIENTE. FOR MORE INFORMATION AND OTHER SPECIALS, CALL (505) 583-2233 OR VISIT OJOSPA.COM. continues pg. 114

TINA LARKIN

Ojo Caliente touts four different types of sulfurfree, geothermal mineral waters that have flowed from a subterranean volcanic aquifer

112

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STOKED ADVE N T U R E

TAOS SKI VALLEY is the only ski resort in the world to be named B-Corp certified. A comprehensive and groundbreaking environmental initiative known as Taos Verde (“Green Taos”) has led to a reduction in energy consumption by almost 11 percent in just two years at the ski resort. This year, TSV will continue to reduce its greenhouse gas emissions to achieve a goal of 20 percent reduction by 2020.

The geothermal heating and cooling system that was an instrumental part of The Blake is part of that effort, as is the improved energy-efficient snowmaking equipment.

c o n t i n u e s f ro m p g . 1 16

Additionally, in cooperation with the U.S. Forest Service and The Nature Conservancy, the resort has restored the Río Hondo, which flows through the ski valley, and has undergone several forest health initiatives while expanding the skiable acreage for the 2017-18 season.

AN EAGER STUDENT CROUCHES LOW AS HE AIMS HIS SKIS TOWARD THE REST OF HIS FAMILY WAITING AT THE BOT TOM OF THE FORMER STR AWBERRY HILL. TINA LARKIN

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I E G L

OCCUPATION Rob Nightingale, 53, sits comfortably on an overstuffed couch in his gallery, Wilder Nightingale Fine Art on Kit Carson Road, and greets visitors in his relaxed and amiable manner. He prefers to let people walk around at their leisure, soaking in all of the art, as opposed to pouncing on them.

He also calmly greets Theo, a Siamese cat who saunters into the space from somewhere in the back. Three years ago, the feline showed up at his back door and decided the gallery would be a good home. She’s named for his mother because, as Nightingale says, “They both look over me.” It doesn’t hurt that Theo is also good for sales.

The women in Nightingale’s life have been instrumental. His gallery is named for his maternal grandmother’s maiden name and his middle name (Wilder) and his last name.

“They were so encouraging and supportive of my art studies,” he says of his grandmothers and mother. His father, however, wasn’t so keen on his son studying to be an oil painter at Columbia College of Chicago, his hometown.

But after college, Nightingale didn’t pick up a brush very often and instead found himself working in “non-art-related retail.” It was in 1990 while he was visiting a high school friend who lived in Taos when his path took a turn.

ROB NIGHTINGALE

Still passionate and drawn to art, he quickly noticed how art-centric Taos is. He landed a job with a gallery. After ending employment there, he and a friend opened a gallery of their own on Sept. 30, 1991. He eventually bought her out and never looked back.

“I never thought I’d be a business owner,” Nightingale shares surrounded by all of the colors, shadows and shapes hanging on the walls. “It just happened. I just kept with it.”

Wilder Nightingale Fine Art has been a shining beacon of the talent in Taos ever since. A large percentage of the artists he represents are local. And if they aren’t local, they are at the very least regional.

Running a gallery in a competitive art market like Taos is no walk in the park. He admits it is an “economic roller coaster,” but adds, “I must like it because I’m still here.”

Well, that and he loves Taos, especially its “small-town feel.”

And Nightingale does more than give local artists exposure and income; as much as he can, he contributes to the community – often in the form of fundraisers for causes such as the Taos Men’s Shelter.

He still doesn’t put paint to canvas very often, but when he does, the result is typically wrapped in polarity because while he likes all kinds of artistic styles, contrast is his favorite. continues pg. 1 26

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CONTINUES FROM PG. 138

EVENTS OPENING DAY, NOV. 22, WEATHER PERMIT TING AT RED RIVER SKI & SUMMER AREA ‘SWITCH ON THE HOLIDAYS,’ 7 P.M., NOV. 23. KICK OFF THE CHRISTMAS HOLIDAY IN BRANDENBURG PARK WITH CHRISTMAS CAROLING AND THE ANNUAL TREE LIGHTING, THEN MOVE INDOORS FOR COCOA, CIDER, COOKIES AND A VISIT FROM SANTA. ANNUAL RACE & SKILLS CAMP, DEC. 1–3, RED RIVER SKI & SUMMER AREA. SKIERS AND SNOWBOARDERS FROM INTERMEDIATE TO EXPERT CAN GET TIPS FROM TOP SKIERS WITH THE UNIVERSIT Y OF NEW MEXICO SKI TEAM. NEW YEAR’S EVE CELEBRATIONS, DEC. 31, BEGIN WITH THE ANNUAL NEW YEAR'S EVE TORCHLIGHT PARADE AND FIREWORKS DISPLAY AT RED RIVER SKI AREA. THEN FAMILIES CAN HEAD TO THE RED RIVER COMMUNIT Y HOUSE FOR AN “OLD FASHIONED” NEW YEAR'S EVE PART Y TO ENJOY PIZZA, MUSIC AND GAMES. A COUNTDOWN BALL DROPS AT MIDNIGHT EASTERN STANDARD TIME (10 P.M. IN NEW MEXICO), ALLOWING EVEN YOUNGER CELEBRANTS TO RING IN THE NEW YEAR BEFORE HEADING TO BED. WINTER CARNIVAL, JAN. 12-14, RED RIVER SKI & SUMMER AREA. EVENTS INCLUDE SNOWMOBILE RACES, SNOWMAN BUILDING, KID -FRIENDLY GAMES AND EVENTS, LIVE MUSIC, SHOPPING STROLLS, TORCHLIGHT PARADES, FIREWORKS AND MORE. DURING THE SNOWMOBILE HILL CLIMB, RACE TO THE TOP OF THE FACE AT THE RED RIVER SKI & SUMMER AREA. SKIJORING RETURNS FOR ITS THIRD ANNUAL COMPETITION IN RED RIVER ON JAN. 13 AND 14.

THIS "WESTERN-ST YLE" COMPETITION COMBINES HORSES IN A FULL GALLOP PULLING SKIERS

MOUNTAIN STATS SEASON: NOV. 22, 2017MARCH 25, 2018 BASE ELEVATION: 8,750 FEET

TOP: PANORAMIC VIEW OF THE OLD MINING TOWN OF RED RIVER AND THE RED RIVER SKI AREA. COURTESY RED RIVER SKI AREA / RED RIVER KNOWS HOW TO CELEBRATE MARDI GRAS WITH COSTUME BALLS, BEAD TOSSING, SINGING AND DANCING, CAJUN AND CREOLE FOOD, PARADES, KIDS COSTUME CONTEST, CAJUN COOK-OFF, BURNING OF THE LOUP-GARU, CRAWFISH BOILS, AND PICTURED, THE DOWNHILL GATOR RACE THAT REQUIRES SNOW AND A TRASH BAG. THIS YEAR'S MARDI GRAS IN THE MOUNTAINS WILL BE HELD FEB. 8-13. TINA LARKIN

PEAK ELEVATION:

THROUGH AN OBSTACLE COURSE COMPRISED OF JUMPS, GATES AND RINGS. RACES START AT NOON BOTH DAYS. RED RIVER SONGWRITER’S FESTIVAL, JAN. 25-27, LOST LOVE SALOON AND MOTHERLODE SALOON. THREE DAYS OF MUSIC, LOVE, FRIENDSHIP, FOOD, DRINK, AND THE CELEBRATION OF MUSIC AND SONG.

10,350 FEET

UNIVERSIT Y OF NEW MEXICO NCA A HOME MEET, FEB. 2 AND 3, RED RIVER SKI & SUMMER AREA AND ENCHANTED FOREST CROSS COUNTRY SKI AREA.

VERTICAL DROP: 1,600 FEET SKIABLE ACRES: 290

MARDI GRAS IN THE MOUNTAINS, FEB. 8-13. RED RIVER KNOWS HOW TO CELEBRATE MARDI GRAS WITH COSTUME BALLS, BEAD TOSSING, SINGING AND DANCING, CAJUN AND CREOLE GOURMET

NUMBER OF TRAILS: 63 NUMBER OF LIFTS: SEVEN ANNUAL AVERAGE

DELIGHTS, PARADES, KIDS COSTUME CONTEST,

SNOWFALL: 214 INCHES

CAJUN COOK- OFF, BURNING OF THE LOUP- GAROU (WEREWOLF ), CRAWFISH BOILS, DOWNHILL GATOR RACE AND MORE.

SNOWMAKING COVERAGE: 85 PERCENT

BEACH WEEK, MARCH 3-10, RED RIVER SKI & SUMMER AREA. TANK TOPS AND HULA SKIRTS ARE

AVERAGE DAYS OF SUNSHINE: MORE THAN 300

SPOT TED FREQUENTLY ZIPPING DOWN THE SLOPES DURING THIS ANNUAL EVENT THAT INCLUDES TORCHLIGHT PARADES AND FIREWORKS, LIVE

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MUSIC, WINTER TUBING, APRÈS-SKI SPECIALS, BEACH PARTIES, CHILDREN’S GLOW STICK PARADE EVERY FRIDAY NIGHT, POND SKIMMING CONTEST AND MORE.

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RED RIVER COMEDY CLUB, MARCH 3. A COLLECTION OF COMEDIANS GET TOGETHER FOR ONE WEEKEND TO COMPETE FOR COMEDIC GLORY IN AN OPEN MIC COMEDY COMPETITION AT THE RED LEARNING TO SKI AT RED RIVER. COURTESY RED RIVER SKI AREA

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E V E R Y S AT U R DAY I N DECEMBER

N OW T H R O U G H F E B. 4 , 2 0 1 8

Seasonal kids’ craftmaking at Twirl Twirl Play and Discovery Space hosts seasonal craftmaking for children upstairs on Saturdays in December from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. Twirl is located at 225 Camino de la Placita, with another entrance just off Taos Plaza

by The Alley. For more information, call (575) 751-1402 or visit twirltaos.org.

N OW T H R O U G H D E C . 10

Recent work by Dora Dillistone A solo show by Taos artist Dora Dillistone who works with natural elements on paper, created outdoors. Showing at The Encore Gallery of the Taos Center for the Arts, 133 Paseo del Pueblo Norte.

(575) 758-2052, tcataos.org N OW T H R O U G H JA N . 7, 2 0 1 8

“The Art of Walt Gonske: A Retrospective” TUE.- SUN., 10 A.M.- 4 P.M. Enjoy a close look at the work of an artist whose art has embodied the Southwest for four decades. Showing at the Taos Art Museum at Fechin House, 227 Paseo del Pueblo Norte. (575) 758-2690 taosartmuseum.org N OW T H R O U G H JA N . 1 5, 2 0 1 8

Mark Goebel: New Mexico Churches, an Elemental Phenomenon Photographs of 43 historic churches of New Mexico by Mark Goebel fill the public areas of the Historic Taos Inn, 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte. 844-276-8598,

“International Taos: Nicolai Fechin and the Taos Society of Artists” TUE.-SUN., 10 A.M.-4 P.M. Portraying the international influences that focused on Taos in the first half of the 20th century. Showing at the Taos Art Museum at Fechin House, 227 Paseo del Pueblo Norte. (575) 758-2690 taosartmuseum.org N O V. 2 9, 2 0 1 7 - JA N .

2, 2018

Meredith Garcia: “Stone Free” Showing at The Harwood Museum of Art, Garcia’s photographs capture the essence of the geological formations of the American Southwest, taking them out of their usual context and viewing them in a new way.

Reception on Dec. 1 from 1 to 4 p.m. at The Harwood Museum of Art, 238 Ledoux St., (575) 758-9826, harwoodmuseum.org.

N O V. 2 4 - D E C . 2 4

TaosFolk Pop-Up Holiday Craft Show

Head to the Lift House every Saturday night and holidays for Torchlight Parade & Fireworks on the “Face” at Red River Ski Area. (575) 754-2223, redriverskiarea. com D E C . 3, 2 0 1 7 - JA N . 6, 2018

The New Masters of Taos Fine Art Series 8 A.M.-5 P.M. Featuring “A One Woman Show” of paintings by Chris Bundy at the Blumenschein Home & Museum, 222 Ledoux St. Opening reception Dec. 2, 5-7 p.m. (575) 758-0505, taoshistoricmuseums.org D E C . 2 9, 2 0 1 7 - M A R C H 2, 2018

Tour with a Ranger 1:30 P.M., Every Friday (except Christmas and New Year’s) Join the Carson National Forest Snow Ranger at the Tip Restaurant in Red River, 1:30 p.m. at the top of the Platinum or Copper Lift to “Tour with the Ranger” and learn about the Carson National Forest while skiing or riding with the ranger. This event is free, but you must have a lift ticket to participate. (575) 754-2223

11 A.M.-5 P.M. The famous POP-UP store returns with affordable gifts made by local hands. Held at the Stables Gallery, 133 Paseo del Pueblo Norte (behind the Taos Inn and Caffe Renato and in front of the Taos Center for the Arts).

(575) 758-2052, taosfolk. com

F E B. 9 - M AY 1 3

N O V. 2 5 - E N D O F S KI SEA SON

Erin Currier Paintings

Red River Torchlight Parade and Fireworks 7 P.M. changes to 8 P.M. for daylight savings time

Mulier Fortis: Work

by Women Features pieces by women from The Harwood Museum of Art collections. The Harwood Museum of Art, 238 Ledoux St., (575) 758-9826, harwoodmuseum.org.

F E B. 9 - M AY 1 3

Courier’s paintings are part portraiture, part collage — constructed of disinherited consumer “waste” collected

in 40 countries — and part sociopolitical archive, but wholly humanist. Once a Taos resident, she now lives and works in Santa Fe, New Mexico. The Harwood Museum of Art, 238 Ledoux St., (575) 758-9826, harwoodmuseum.org.

holiday in Brandenburg Park with Christmas caroling and the annual tree lighting, then move indoors for cocoa, cider, cookies and a special visit from Santa. (575) 7541708, redriver.org or (575) 754-2223, redriverskiarea. com

NOVEMBER

N O V. 2 3

N O V. 1 1

Sipapú opens Sipapú Ski and Summer Resorts opens for the 20172018 ski season. 800-5872240, sipapunm.com N O V. 1 7

Ed Reed with The Lorca Hart Trio 7:30 P.M. A co-presentation with the Taos Jazz Bebop Society as part of the Frank Morgan Taos Jazz Festival. The ever youthful, 84-year-old Reed sings this material as if he’s lived with it his whole life, which he has. Reed will be joined by the Lorca Hart Trio at The Harwood Museum of Art, 238 Ledoux St., (575) 758-9826, harwoodmuseum. org.

N O V. 2 1

Red River winter tubing opening day Tubing fun begins at Red River Ski & Summer Area.

(575) 754-2223, redriverskiarea.com N O V. 2 2

Red River opens 9 A.M.-4 P.M. Opening day at Red River Ski Area, subject to weather and slope conditions. (575) 754- 2223 ext. 201 or 202, redriverskiarea.com N O V. 2 3

Switch on the Holidays 7 P.M. Kick off the Christmas

Frozen Turkey Race NOON Ride a frozen turkey down the slope and win fabulous prizes. Free event for kids of all ages. Sign up at the Main Chalet. (575) 754-2223, redriverskiarea.com N O V. 2 3

Taos Ski Valley opens 9 A.M.-4 P.M. Ski season kicks off Thanksgiving Day subject to weather and slope conditions. 800-776-1111, skitaos. com N O V. 2 4

Twirl Aglow 3-6 P.M. This annual come-onecome-all kids’ party pays homage to a decade of Twirl Play and Discovery Space in Taos. The event will be held in the Twirl courtyard. Twirl is located at 225 Camino de la Placita, with another entrance just off Taos Plaza

by The Alley. For more information, call (575) 751-1402 or visit twirltaos.org.

N O V. 2 4 - 2 6

CAV Annual Yuletide Arts and Crafts Fair 11 A.M.- 4 P.M. The 35th annual Yuletide Arts & Crafts Fair features the areas finest craftsman and artists in support of individuals and families affected by domestic and sexual violence. Held at the Sagebrush Inn Convention Center, 1508 Paseo del Pueblo Sur. (575) 758-8082, taoscav.org

N O V. 2 5

Thanksjibbing Rail Jam 1 P.M. Held at the Pot “O” Gold Terrain Park at the Base Camp near the Main Chalet at the Red River Ski Area.

Registration starts at 10 a.m.

Practice starts at 11 a.m.

(575) 754-2223, redriverskiarea.com

DECEMBER DEC. 1

31st Annual Yuletide Caroling and Tree Lighting 4-6 P.M. The 2017 Taos Holiday Season officially kicks off in Taos with the annual lighting of the town Christmas tree and electric light parade at the Historic Taos Plaza. taos.org DEC. 2

20th Annual Holiday Fiesta 11 A.M.-3 P.M. This annual, free event features musical performances by Taos students and ornament making. Held at Millicent Rogers Museum, 1504 Millicent Rogers Rd., 4 miles north of Taos Plaza.

(575) 758-2462, millicentrogers.org DEC. 2

The New Masters of Taos Fine Art Series 5-7 P.M. Opening reception for “A One Woman Show” of paintings

by Chris Bundy, Blumenschein Home & Museum, 222 Ledoux St. (575) 758-0505, taoshistoricmuseums.org DEC. 2

Lighting Ledoux 5-7 P.M. The historic, narrow Ledoux Street in the Taos Historic

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Valley in honor of the resort’s founder. 800-776-1111, skitaos.com.

MARCH 12-23

Spring Break Celebration in Angel Fire Bring the family for great spring skiing and riding.

(855) 923-7387, angelfireresort.com M A R C H 16 - 19

Dog Days Come ski the regular crosscountry trails with your canine bestie at Enchanted Forest Cross Country Ski and Snowshoe Area, call (505) 754-2374 or visit enchantedforestxc.com.

MARCH 17

Headlamp Snowshoe Tour 7 P.M. At Enchanted Forest Cross Country Ski and Snowshoe Area, call (505) 754-2374 or visit enchantedforestxc.com.

MARCH 18

Closing day at Enchanted Forest Cross Country Ski and Snowshoe Area Subject to trail conditions.

Call (505) 754-2374 or visit enchantedforestxc.com.

M A R C H 19

Snowboarding celebration An event to commemorate 10 years of snowboarding at Taos Ski Valley, 800-776-

1111, skitaos.com.

7387, angelfireresort.com

MARCH 23-24

APRIL

Ridge-A-Thon The 21st annual Ben Myers Ridge-A-Thon is a ski and snowboard event/fundraiser to raise awareness of community health needs.

Teams of two collect pledges leading up to the event, hike up and hustle down a menu of runs on Highline Ridge and the West Basin in Taos Ski Valley, and do it as many times as they want to, racking up a point per run toward their total of runs.

For more information, go to raisetheridge.com.

MARCH 25

Red River Ski Area “Pond Skim” 3 P.M. And that’s a wrap for the 2017-2018 ski season in Red River marked by the annual end-of-the-season Pond Skim. Brave winter sport enthusiasts try their hand at attempting to cross a makeshift pond located at the base of “The Face.” Thrill the crowd with your best endeavors and costumes.

Appropriate pond skim attire includes: bathing suits, fun costumes, capes, arm floaties ... anything your creativity can come up with.

(575) 754-2223, redriverskiarea.com MARCH 25

Closing day at Angel Fire 9 A . M . - 4 P. M .

Last chance to ski at Angel Fire Resort for the 20172018 season. (855) 923-

APRIL 1

EVENTS

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WINTER/SPRING 2017-2018

Closing day at Taos Ski Valley Featuring the hilarious Pond Skimming event. 800-7761111, skitaos.com APRIL 14-15

“Play it Forward” Youth Concert 5:30 P.M. Taos Chamber Music Group’s annual program featuring younger musicians highlights the astounding abilities of 17-year-old violinist Phoenix Avalon in works by Brahms, Astor Piazzolla and the young Russian composer, Alexey Kurbatov. Tickets are $25, $20 for Harwood Alliance members and $12 for students. Available at taoschambermusicgroup. org, the Harwood Museum in person, 238 Ledoux St., or by calling (575) 758-9826.

MAY M AY 3

Taos Pueblo Santa Cruz Feast Day and Dances Traditional foot races open to the public at 8 a.m. Corn Dances start at approximately 1 p.m. (575) 7581028, taospueblo.com M AY 1 1 - 1 3

Northern New Mexico Mother’s Day Concert Free community concert hosted by LMNOC Broad-

SKIJORING IN RED RIVER. STEVEN BUNDY

casting celebrates three days of festivities honoring mothers. Live entertainment from traditional New Mexico-style music, Tejano, classic rock and country. Held at Kit Carson Park in the heart of Taos.

(575) 758-4491, facebook. com/991kxmt.

M AY 1 7

Dennis Hopper Day 5 P.M. In honor of one of Taos’ most notable residents, activities, festivities and celebrations will take place at the Taos Community Auditorium and will kick off at 5 p.m. with the Easy Rider Rally. Following the rally will be an Easy Rider Ride across the Río Grande Gorge Bridge and a postride buffalo barbecue and concert. Rebel Film Festival will be screening the 1988 indie film drama “Colors” directed by Hopper, starring Sean Penn and Robert Duvall THE UNEXPECTED IS EXPECTED AT THE END-OF-SEASON POND SKIMMING CONTEST AT TAOS SKI VALLEY ON APRIL 1. KATHARINE EGLI

with special guests. Held at Taos Community Auditorium.

800-732-8267, taos.org M AY 1 8

Taos Lilac Festival Lilacs everywhere! Weekend events include crafts fair, pet parade and costume contest, children’s carousel, lilac walking tour, live entertainment, beer and wine garden, and the Lilac 5K. Events held at Kit Carson Park. taoslilacfestival.com M AY 19

Half Marathon & 5K Run An annual challenging, high-altitude race in Red River. The 13.1 mile race begins in town at 8,750 feet and climbs over 700 feet with a turnaround point at just above 9,400 feet elevation. (575) 754-2366, redriverchamber.org

“Excellent service,

Excellent speed,

Excellent price!”

Stephen P. Archuleta

Archuleta Consulting, Former Taos County Manager (Ret’d)

nce I used Kit Carson’s Broadband I knew I would never “O go back to the old voicemail modem internet even if I got it for free.

Excellent service, excellent speed, excellent price!!

Thanks Kit Carson Broadband!”

116 Cruz Alta Rd. Taos, NM 87571

(575)758-4838

CELEBRATE THE SEASON Nambé Taos at 109 North Plaza, Taos, NM 87571 - P: 575-758-8221 Monday-Saturday 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. Sunday 11 a.m. - 4 p.m.

Nambé Pojoaque 90 Cities of Gold Road, Santa Fe, NM 87506 - P: 505-455-2731 Monday-Saturday 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. Sunday 11 a.m. - 4 p.m.

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