Taos Winter Visitor Guide 2013

Winter/Spring 2014 /// www.taosnews.com/visitors

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Soak Your Bones y Tranquilo After an exhilarating winter day in Taos, rejuvenate in Ojo’s steamy, soothing, historic hot springs.

20% Off Skier’s Special Bring your lift ticket or season pass from any New Mexico Ski Resort and receive 20% off springs entry or lodging.

Valid 7 days per week, excluding holiday periods, December 1, 2013 - April 30, 2014. Not to be combined with any other offer. Subject to availability. Tax & gratuity additional.

Top 10 Best Hot Springs Spas in the World - SpaFinder Magazine Top 5 Most Affordable Spas & Favorite Mineral Springs Spa - Spa Magazine Best Weekend Getaway in Taos County - Taos News People’s Choice Awards Best Massage, Best Place to Pamper Your Skin - Taos News People’s Choice Awards

Visit our website for lodging and spa packages.

Hot springs open 8 am - 10 pm every day.

505.583.2233

ojospa.com

ojocaliente

Sulfur-free Mineral Springs • New Mud Area • Full-service Spa • Enchanting Lodging • Restaurant & Wine Bar • Yoga, Hiking & Biking Trails 37 miles SW of Taos via paved Rim Road/285.

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the art of wearing shoes TaoShoes puts nothing but the best on your feet!

Family owned since 1903 Laurence & Douglas Goodhart (Certified Pedorthist, since 1985)

Orthotics made on-site

Photo by Kim Treiber

F R E E Y OU R F E E T

NOW OPEN on TAOS PLAZA

FREE YOUR FEET

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133 N. Plaza • Taos • 575-758-4711

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Some people Some people say there say are there no more are no secrets more left secrets in skiing left in and skiing and Some people say there are no more secrets left in skiing and snowboarding. snowboarding.

They sayThey there’s saynothing there’s nothing left to be left discovered, to be discovered, snowboarding. They say there’s nothing left to be discovered, that all the thatstashes all the stashes are gone, arethe gone, mysteries the mysteries revealed. revealed.

They sayThey say that all the stashes are gone, the mysteries revealed. They say that powder that powder days have days been have reduced been reduced to a mere to a hour, mere hour, that powder days have been reduced to a mere hour, and theand onlythe way only to chase way tofirst chase tracks firstistracks fight the is fight crowds. the crowds. and the only way to chase first tracks is fight the crowds.

Well, they Well, don’t they know don’t Taos. know DoTaos. you?Do you?

Well, they don’t know Taos. Do you?

Photos courtesy of Eric Thompson (top) and Kevin Rebholtz (bottom).

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ThomWheeler.com

"Ranchos By The Sea" Oil on Canvas

Studio Gallery 18

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939 Kit Carson

Taos

575-758-8870

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Creating Beautiful Food breakfast lunch

dinner special events catering live music dance hall cakes & pastries for special occasions meeting & workshop rooms

Prepared by Chef Erica Miller

outdoor photo by Jim Cox, interior and food photos by Tina Larkin

575.758.3003 ✣ www.oldmartinashall.com Across from San Francisco de Asis Church ✣ 4140 Hwy 68 ✣ Ranchos de Taos Winter/Spring 2014 /// www.taosnews.com/visitors

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OFF The Beaten Path…

OUT of The Ordinary…

ONE OF A KIND...

Alhambra

Taos’ Oldest & Largest Oriental Rug & Furniture Store 124 Paseo del Pueblo Sur • Taos • 575 - 758 - 4161 Monday-Saturday 10 - 6 • www.alhambra505.com 22

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FULL PAGE SPECS: Full Page Non Bleed: 7.375" x 9.875" Full Page Bleed: Trim: 8.375" x 10.875" Live: 7.375" x 9.875" Margins: Top: .375 Bottom: .625 Right: .5 Left: .5 Bleed: 9.125 x 11.375" Top: .25 Bottom: .25 Right: .375 Left: .375

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FULL PAGE SPECS: Full Page Non Bleed: 7.375" x 9.875" Full Page Bleed: Trim: 8.375" x 10.875" Live: 7.375" x 9.875" Margins: Top: .375 Bottom: .625 Right: .5 Left: .5 Bleed: 9.125 x 11.375" Top: .25 Bottom: .25 Right: .375 Left: .375

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WINTER/SPRING 2014

CONTENTS

Photo courtesy Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort and Spa

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TO THE TAOS NEWS WINTER GUIDE 2014 By special sections editor Andy Jones

An index of area retail and rental outlets

WELCOME

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WINTER AT TAOS PUEBLO

Tradition with a sacred touch

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TAOS MUSEUMS A plethora of art and culture

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ATTENTION TO DETAIL

As presented by the Taos Visitor Center

Writer Yvonne Pesquera looks into “How some ski patrollers transfer their keen observation skills into art”

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AREA MAPS

TAOS IS NEW MEXICO TRUE

A message from State Cabinet Secretary of Tourism Monique Jacobson

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GEAR

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FIRESIDE READS

Our friends at Moby Dickens Bookshop offer some tips for “Books to curl up with” this winter season

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The Taos News editor Joan Livingston invites you to meet some local reality TV stars

Writer Teresa Dovalpage shows us “Six desserts that stand out in a town known for the high quality of its bakeries”

TAOS GETS A DOSE OF REALITY

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PHOTOGRAPHY

THE SWEET LIFE IN TAOS

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Writer and photographer Jim O’Donnell takes us into “The magic hour of winter”

HOT CHOCOLATE

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WINTERTAINMENT

A breakdown of local live music and night life hotspots

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BEST PLACES TO FUEL UP A tour of the best places to “Grab a quick breakfast before hitting the slopes,” by Yvonne Pesquera

Why this winter-time beverage is “Not just for kids anymore”

SNOW COACH DINNER TOURS

Red River Ski Area offers “a high-dining experience”

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WINE & BEER

Festivals loom large for people who love beer and wine

There is a Difference…

DREAMCATCHER REAL ESTATE

#1 Boutique Real Estate Co. in Taos CASA DE LUZ

MODERN ART

The only Taos area ranch on the market. 2300 spectacular acres with owner’s custom home, 2 guesthomes, vintage log cabin, horse facilities & more. MLS #91124 http://taosnewmexico.com/ double-d-ranch/

Radiant space of light and movement from every perspective in this custom designed 3 bed/2.5 bath home plus guesthouse, by renowned architect Bill Hoffman with inspiring mountain views from every room. Orchard, gardens & over 100 trees on secluded 3.87 verdant acres, only minutes to Taos Plaza. MLS #93330 $2,695,000 http://taosnewmexico.com/casa-de-luz/

This gem of contemporary architecture embodies both artistic vision and contemporary design.

This “Modern Adobe” sits on 3 park-like acres in the heart of Taos, adjacent to Pueblo lands.

MLS #93101 $1,795,000 http://taosnewmexico.com/ modern-art

RENOWNED HISTORIC LANDMARK

HACIENDA DEL VIENTO CANTANDO

159 PRISTINE ACRES

DOUBLE D RANCH

A Historic Gentleman’s Ranch TAOS, NEW MEXICO

CH AN R N OR KH C BU

An architectural experience of historical significance and a near-magical gateway to one of Taos’ most acclaimed artistic periods. Formerly part of the Mabel Dodge Luhan Estate, this home, guesthouse and studio has many stories to tell. MLS #92742 $1,197,000 http://taosnewmexico.com/saint-teresa-house/

Meticulously remodeled century old adobe on 2 acres. Appointments in this 4 bed/4 bath home represent authentic New Mexican style, with local craftsman talent in every detail along with aweinspiring balcony panoramas. $699,900 MLS #91602 http://taosnewmexico.com/viento-cantando/

Year-round stream, abundance of wildlife, majestic stands of Aspen & quiet solitude, located in the beautiful Amalia valley near Valle Vidal National Forest Area. MLS #92187

EL RITO HOMESTEAD

DOLAN STREET ADOBE

IMPROVED BUILDING SITE

ION CT U ED ER C I PR

ING IST L W NE

Lovely & Comfortable 3,800 sq.ft. 3 bed/3 bath adobe home with splendid touches by ceramic artist in residence. Secluded 5 acres with solid 2,400 sq.ft. workshop. Solar powerback-up and cistern augment the property’s on-grid electric & well.

MLS #93821 $439,000

A Taos original adobe which has evolved over 2 family generations. The 1900 sq ft 3 bed/2bath home offers not only one of the best in-town locations, but also a lot of potential.

Remodel or update into your dream home.

MLS #94315 $335,000

AMAZING views of Taos Mountains and the Hondo Valley!! There is already a pond dug and some landscaping in place, plus a commercial size well.

Seller is including a very livable RV and lots of building materials. One of a kind and beautiful!!

MLS #94377 $149,000

DREAMCATCHER

R EAL ESTATE COMPANY

www.taosnewmexico.com

Pavel Lukeš

o. 575.758.3606 c. 575.770.1116 e. pavel@taosnewmexico.com

Owner/Broker

Licensed Realtor Since 1972

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WINTER/SPRING 2014

CONTENTS

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OJO CALIENTE

Sulphur-free waters are calling your name at Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort and Spa

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WINTER IN TAOS Writer Cindy Brown offers preparation tips for snowshoeing

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FREE-HEELING

Virginia L. Clark tells us why, and how, “Telemark skiing is increasingly popular in the Enchanted Circle”

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THE POWDER HOUND SPEAKS

Andy Dennison interrogates some area ski bums to find out where the best powder stashes are at each local ski area

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SLEDDING & TUBING Find out more about the other way to get down the hill on the snow

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STAFF CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Cindy Brown Andy Dennison Teresa Dovalpage Stacey Glaser Monique Jacobson Jim O’Donnell Yvonne Pesquera Steve Tapia

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Steven Bundy Ryan Heffernan Jim O’Donnell Kevin Rebholtz Geraint Smith Gak Stonn

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RÍO GRANDE NATIONAL MONUMENT

Jim O’Donnell takes us hiking into the recently designated national monument

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A small village with a lot to offer

A village apart on the Enchanted Circle

ARROYO SECO

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ENCHANTED FOREST

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What’s new at the area’s only dedicated cross-country ski and snowshoe area

Cindy Brown writes that “With preparation, staying active in winter is no problem”

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WINTER HIKING

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TAOS SKI VALLEY UPGRADES

Journalist J.R. Logan writes how the “TSV Master Plan includes lift to Kachina Peak, among other long-term plans”

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TAOS SKI VALLEY

Famous for its steeps, TSV has fun events too

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SIPAPU

Resort undergoes lift upgrades to improve experience

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FOR THE KIDS

ANGEL FIRE RESORT

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Biologist Steve Tapia discusses how some area animals go “there, and back … again”

Red River adds new terrain and increased snowmaking

The Taos Youth and Family Center has a full schedule this season

MIGRATION

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Winter season changes aimed at improving experience for families

RED RIVER SKI AREA

QUESTA

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EAGLE NEST

With its Old West facade and outdoor recreation galore, this village is more than meets the eye

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GETTING HERE

Driving directions to Taos and rental car and shuttle information

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CALENDAR OF EVENTS

CREATIVE DIRECTION & LAYOUT DESIGN Michelle M. Gutierrez mmgdezign.com THE TAOS NEWS STAFF Robin Martin, Owner Chris Baker, Publisher Joan Livingston, Editor Chris Wood, Advertising Manager Andy Jones, Special Sections Editor Jennifer Taphorn, Production Manager Tina Larkin, Photographer J.R. Logan, Reporter Virginia Clark, Reporter

What’s happening throughout the winter

COVER PHOTOGRAPH “Snow boarder rides down West Basin at TSV,”

by Ryan Heffernan, Ryan Heffernan Photography.

Cover design by Julie Osmanski, The Taos News

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ie B

e v n

n

o id

s!

Welcome to Taos County

and Northern New Mexico!

I’m proud to represent the people, cultures, history and natural resources that make our neck of the woods so unique. As New Mexico State Representative for District 42 I work hard to ensure the protection of these valuable cultural and natural resources.

Whether you’re coming back for more or this is your first visit to our High-Desert Paradise, we’re glad to have you.

Stop and take in the views, savor that last drop of green chile, ski the steep and deep, and enjoy the shopping!

Welcome…

We’re glad to have you.

State Representative Roberto “Bobby” J. Gonzales District 42, Democrat

Paid Political Advertisement

Paid for by the Committee to Re-Elect Roberto “Bobby” J. Gonzales, Marcos Gonzales Treasurer

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WINTER AT TAOS PUEBLO: tradition, with a sacred touch

T

aos Pueblo adheres to a more traditional winter schedule than the rest of the Taos Valley. As such, winter is a time for members of the Pueblo to focus on the family and religion. The village is closed from sometime in mid-February until about midMarch for Native religious activities. Still, if a visitor is here any other time during winter, especially during the holiday season, Taos Pueblo is a unique place more than worthy of time and attention.

The multi-storied main buildings at Taos Pueblo have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a National Historic Landmark — those are the kinds of honors you deserve when you’re people have lived in one place for more than 1,000 years.

HOLIDAY CEREMONIES For the visitor, the main attractions at the Pueblo during the winter months include moving ceremonial holiday traditions. On Christmas Eve, Taos Pueblo celebrates with

Steven Bundy Taos Pueblo a day or two after a good snow.

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bonfires and the Procession of the Virgin Mary. Vespers (evening worship) takes place at sundown; afterward the priest and acolytes lead the procession from the chapel followed by six men carrying a dais that holds the statue of the Virgin Mary under a canopy.

During the procession, Pueblo men carrying rifles shoot into the air to announce the Virgin’s arrival and the birth of Jesus. As the statue is paraded around the plaza, the procession is followed by dancers, musicians and members of the Pueblo and general public.

The next day, on Christmas, the Pueblo celebrates with either the Deer or Matachines Dance, and then on New Year’s Day, the Turtle Dance. These are all religious ceremonies and the Pueblo asks that visitors show the same respect they would at their own church or home. No photography is allowed during ceremonies.

SHOPPING AT THE PUEBLO Visitors can also find Christmas gifts or a unique Pueblo-made treasure while shopping at Taos Pueblo. There are approximately 20 shops in the village proper that remain open through the winter. The tribe makes every effort to ensure that all arts and crafts sold at shops are Native-made, either by Taos Pueblo artists or other American Indians from the area.

No tax is charged and all sales go directly to the artists or shopkeepers, who are all tribal members. Local residents receive free admission to the village on Sundays.

VISITING Pueblo hours are Monday-Saturday, 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. and Sunday, 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Visit taospueblo.com or call (575) 7581028 for times and information about shops, celebrations and holiday events.

RULES TO ABIDE BY Report and pay a fee for each camera.

Respect “restricted area” signs.

Do not enter doors that are not marked as curio shops.

Do not photograph tribal members without asking permission first.

Do not photograph inside San Geronimo Chapel.

Do not enter the walls surrounding the old church ruins and cemetary.

Do not wade in the river.

All photos are for personal use only; commercial, documentary, educational and/or artist renderings must have prior approval and all fees apply (inquire within tourism office).

No photography on feast days.

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THE TAOS NEWS 34

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TO COLORADO

ENCHANTED CIRCLE

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COSTILLA

522

CERRO

AMALIA VALLE VIDAL

EL RITO

378 QUESTA

WILD ROVERS RECREATION AREA

TRES PIEDRAS

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SAN CRISTOBAL

GREATER WORLD EARTHSHIP COMMUNITY STAGE COACH HOT SPRINGS

ARROYO HONDO

RED RIVER SKI AREA

522 D.H. LAWRENCE RANCH

230

RED RIVER

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TAOS SKI VALLEY

ELIZABETH TOWN

150 ARROYO SECO

RIO GRANDE GORGE BRIDGE

578

WHEELER PEAK 13,161 FT

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EAGLE NEST

64 TO CIMARRON UTE PARK AND PHILMONT BOY SCOUT RANCH

VIETNAM VETERANS MEMORIAL STATE PARK

TAOS AIRPORT

TAOS RANCHOS DE TAOS

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TALPA

518

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ANFEL FIRE SKI RESORT

434

TO SANTA FE TO SIPAPU SKI AREA AND THE HIGH ROAD

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This winter, hops pile up like snow in Colorado with

ACCUMULATION WHITE IPA. Flurries of Mosaic and Amarillo hops bring citrus flavor and bright aromas as a perfect blanket of white spills over the top.

Make the season white and visit

accumulation white ipa is brewed by new belgium brewing fort collins co

NewBelgium.com for wintery winnings.

Find the newest addition to our family of IPAs on the Beer Mode app.

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Photo of Kachina Peak “reflected� in ski goggles by Kevin Rebholtz Photo illustration by Michelle M. Gutierrez

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GEAR

RETAIL AND RENTAL OUTLETS BEFORE YOU HIT THE SLOPES, head to the back

country, schedule that hiking trip or other winter adventure, visit one of these local outfitters to stock up on the latest gear. Here is a complete list of area outdoor retailers.

Several of the listed stores focus on winter sports and others might have a great deal on some summer gear.

Call ahead to verify hours and availability.

Store Directory on page 42

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TAOS MUSEUMS

a plethora of art and culture KIT CARSON HOME AND MUSEUM The home of Kit Carson, military scout, soldier, trapper and frontiersman.

Open daily: 10 a.m.-4 p.m.

113 Kit Carson Road; (575) 758-4945; kitcarsonhomeandmuseum.com GOVERNOR BENT HOUSE AND MUSEUM Home of New Mexico’s first American governor, early trader, trapper and mountain man.

Winter hours: Daily, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.

117 Bent St., Taos TAOS ART MUSEUM AT FECHIN HOUSE The home and studio of international artist Nicolai Ivanovich Fechin.

Winter hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.

Fees: $8 per adult; $7 for seniors; $5 for students; free for children under 12; free admission Sundays for Taos County residents; tour rates and discount cards for visiting multiple museums available.

227 Paseo del Pueblo Norte; (575) 758-2690; taosartmuseum.org

Geraint Smith A piece at the Millicent Rogers Museum.

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THE MILLICENT ROGERS MUSEUM Collections include American Indian jewelry, pottery including the Maria Martinez family collection, paintings, textiles and other artwork.

Winter hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day, New Year’s Day and Easter Sunday Fees: $10 per adult; $8 for seniors (60+); $6 for college students (with ID); $6 for veterans; $5 for New Mexico residents with ID; $2 for children 6-16 (6 and under free); and free for Taos County residents every day; tour rates and discount cards for visiting multiple museums available.

504 Millicent Rogers Road; (575) 758-2462; millicentrogers.org THE HARWOOD MUSEUM OF ART A permanent collection of 1,700 works of art and an archive of 17,000 photographs from the 19th Century to the present.

Winter hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Sunday, noon to 5 p.m.

Fees: $10 per adult; $8 seniors (65+) and students; free to children under 12, members of the Harwood Museum of Art Alliance, University of New Mexico students and faculty and free on Sundays for Taos County residents; tour rates and discount cards for visiting multiple museums available.

238 Ledoux St.; (575) 758-9826; harwoodmuseum.org

THE HACIENDA DE LOS MARTÍNEZ A fortress-like trade center constructed in 1804 by Severino (Martin) Martínez.

Winter hours: Monday-Tuesday and Thursday-Saturday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Sunday, noon to 4 p.m.

Fees: $8 per adult; $4 for 16 and under; free for under 5; free admission Sundays for Taos County residents; tour rates and discount cards for visiting multiple museums available.

708 Hacienda Way, off Lower Ranchitos Road; (575) 758-1000; taoshistoricmuseums.org THE E.L. BLUMENSCHEIN HOME AND MUSEUM Preserved as when the artist, a member of the Taos Society of Artists, and his family lived there.

Winter hours: Monday-Tuesday and Thursday-Saturday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Fees: $8 per adult; $4 for 16 and under; free for under 5; free admission Sundays for Taos County residents; tour rates and discount cards for visiting multiple museums available.

222 Ledoux St.; (575) 758-0505; taoshistoricmuseums.org THE COUSE HOUSE The private home and studio of Eanger Irving Couse, a noted early 20th Century painter. The house is still owned by the Couse family, but arrangements may be made to tour the home.

146 Kit Carson Road; To arrange a visit, call: (575) 751-0369; CouseFoundation.org

omfort and beauty in perfect balance.

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The uncommonly-stylish Comfort Sleeper™ by is the only sleep sofa featuring a 5” foam mattress which eliminates the uncomfortable bars and springs found in traditional ™ sleepers. Come into Cambden Interiors to see the many styles available!

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www. ca mb deni nteri o rs . co m | S ome wh e re , AZ Winter/Spring 2014 /// www.taosnews.com/visitors

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‘Ru‘toYifollow means your heart’ in Chinese.

Encounter life-changing experiences at Ru Yi Multicultural Studio. Enrich your Spirit, Open Your Heart, and Enhance Your Life Force!

• Classes for Chinese Language and Culture, Calligraphy for Meditation, Tai Ji-Qi Gong to Increase Vitality • Multicultural Workshops with Guest Teachers • Art Exhibits and Fun Events

575-776-5126

www.ruyistudio.com

pow wow pastel 18.5x17.5

Oils & Pastels Fall Arts Best of Show

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Opening Reception January 11, 5-7pm

119A Kit Carson Rd, Taos 575-741-0052 · 325-647-5736

Experience the Art that Captured the Southwest in the Historic Home Crafted by Nicolai Fechin

Admission to garden, studio, and Museum Store is FREE. Taos residents FREE on Sunday.

227 Paseo del Puebo Norte (575) 758-2690 www.taosartmuseum.org for Winter Events and Programs.

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ATTENTION TO DETAIL

By Yvonne Pesquera

How some ski patrollers transfer their keen observation skills into making art

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When the snow falls in Taos, the landscape is both tranquil and a playground of pure fun. At area resorts, ski patrollers have strong training and professional skills in hill safety. But when the ski resorts close in the off-season, some patrollers turn their attention to more creative endeavors.

Ski patrolling is an occupation that requires a great deal of creativity. On a day-to-day basis, patrollers work with scientific data (such as weather measurements), help skiers and

snowboarders in medical need, and endure the elements to open and close roped areas and post signs. For a patroller out on the mountain, the ability to think on one’s feet and solve problems is essential.

And while many ski towns can boast pretty alpine locales, Taos is unique as an enchanting arts colony with a deep history of motivating those who live and visit here. Therefore it is no coincidence that some local ski patrollers are also artists and craftsmen.

MARK SUNDIN Mark Sundin has been patrolling at Taos Ski Valley since 1979. Gesturing to the hundreds of paintings stacked around his home and art studio, he says, “I’ve been skiing since I was three years old, but not painting.”

The desire to paint came to Sundin when he moved to Taos. He describes the landscape as “an inspiring place” and this feeling is evident in his acrylic paintings, which are all painted en plein air (outside). His preferred subjects are landscapes, and local adobe homes and churches.

“On patrol, it is our job to observe. We look at the composition of things.

And that’s what being an artist is too,” he says. “It’s about noticing.”

STEVE ESKEBACK In André Malraux’s seminal text, “The Psychology of Art,” the French essayist points out one theory of how art came to be. In lore, Ancient Greek artists discovered their right to stand up to the gods. “Man struggled with the forms the gods had imposed on life,” Malraux writes.

“So the artists chose to arrange the universe as they saw fit.”

This quest to create anew and not accept “what is” can be discovered in drinking Steve Eskeback’s craft beer at Eske’s Brewery in Taos.

DAVID DUBINSKY From the high desert mesa to the pine-forested Sangre de Cristo mountains, it is easy to find beauty everywhere in Taos. Even a seemingly plain wall can be, in fact, a masterpiece of artisan work.

David Dubinsky is a plasterer and knows all about attention to detail.

When he is meticulously layering coats of plaster by hand, his face is only a few inches away from the wall for the duration of the project.

“When you see plaster cracking, it’s not the fault of the plaster,” he says with conviction about the artisanal nature of labor-intensive plastering.

Dubinsky patrolled at Taos Ski Valley for 28 years and says his work on and off the hill can be summed up in one word: Discipline.

“Patrolling is very hard work but it’s also very satisfying,” he says. “You must have the discipline to pay attention and know your mountain.”

His commitment to getting things right in plaster is so strong that he has never plastered a house for someone he doesn’t know. “If I commit to doing this work for anyone,” he says, “it’s like my own home.”

Photos by Tina Larkin Previous page: Mark Sundin works en plein air.

This page, from left: David Dubinsky adorns the walls he plastered with his own artwork, and Steve Eskeback tests a bit of his craft brew.

Eskeback has been patrolling at Taos Ski Valley since 1981. He says, “When I first moved to Taos 32 years ago, I had to drive down to Albuquerque just to buy Sierra Nevada. “I was desperate to drink good beer so I started brewing for myself in the early 1980s. Another patroller gave me my first kit.”

Brewing craft beer is a handmade, artisan craft. It is not an automated manufacturing process; there is no pushing buttons or dialing controls.

“We have the same set standards of cleaning and sanitation,” Eskeback explains. “But after mashing in the grains, there is no ‘specific amount’ of water to use. The brewers have their own interpretation of each small batch.”

The demands of ski patrolling run the gamut between the intellectual and the physical. Yet Eskeback concedes there is a side to patrolling that can’t be quantified. And just like the craft of brewing beer and making other art work, he says, “You just have a feel for it.”

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“MAN STRUGGLED WITH THE FORMS THE GODS HAD IMPOSED ON LIFE...”

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Preserving the past is our gift for the future© Historic artist home, studios, grounds and collections

The Couse – Sharp Historic Site and The Couse Foundation Open by appointment May through October 146 Kit Carson Road, Taos (575) 751-0369 www.cousefoundation.org

Stephen Day

“Morning Light” Oil 36 x 48

Wilder Nightingale Fine Art 119 Kt Carson Road, Taos 575-758-3255 www.wnightingale.com

Tempo Arts & Entertainment Magazine of The Taos News

Dec. 4-10, 2008 Inside:

◆ Television listings ◆ Movies ◆ Nightlife

NATIVE STAR

Robert Mirabal emerges from a whirlwind involving a book, a movie and, of course, his music

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CRAIG STEPHENSON The proficiency of close observation doesn’t just go away when the ski season has ended. Which may explain why patroller Craig Stephenson has also enjoyed a successful photography career.

He has patrolled at Taos Ski Valley for 20 years; and in 2000, he won the photography category at the annual Taos Open category at the Taos Fall Arts Festival.

It comes as no surprise when Stephenson says, “I work almost exclusively in outdoor landscape photography. Just like with patrolling, I love to be working outdoors and exploring nature.”

But it’s not just the big sweeping views that capture his attention. “I just appreciate the beauty of a moment,” he says.

Courtesy Photo “Fisher ToweRed,” photo by Craig Stephenson. Incamera double exposure on Velvia slide film.

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FIRESIDE READS BOOKS TO CURL UP WITH Z

ipping down the mountain or hiking in the woods is all well and good in the wintertime, but you know what?

Sometimes it’s cold and you just want to grab a book and take it easy, in a nice, warm building.

And there’s nothing wrong with that. In fact, at The Taos News, we encourage literacy, so when you’re done reading this guide, check out one of these new books (list provided by the good folks at Moby Dickens Bookshop in the John Dunn Shops).

Fireside reads: “SPIDER WOMAN’S DAUGHTER,” BY ANNE HILLERMAN

The daughter of bestselling author Tony Hillerman picks up where here father left his popular Leaphorn and Chee series with “Spider Woman’s Daughter,” a Navajo Country mystery, filled with captivating lore, startling suspense, bold new characters, vivid color, and rich Southwestern atmosphere.

“THE LOWLAND,” BY JHUMPA LAHIRI

From the Pulitzer Prize-winning, bestselling author of “The Namesake” comes an extraordinary new novel, set in both India and America, that expands the scope and range of one of our most dazzling storytellers: a tale of two brothers bound by tragedy, a fiercely brilliant woman haunted by her past, a country torn by revolution, and a love that lasts long past death.

“DAUGHTER OF EMPIRE: MY LIFE AS A MOUNTBATTEN,”

BY LADY PAMELA HICKS

Lady Hicks’ memoir captures the tale of her childhood in England and India as the daughter of Lord Louis and Edwina Mountbatten.

Few families can boast of not one but two saints among their ancestors, a greataunt who was the last tsarina of Russia, a father who was Grace Kelly’s pinup, and a grandmother who was not only a princess but could also argue the finer points of naval law. Pamela Mountbatten entered a remarkable family when she was born at the very end of the Roaring 20s.

“THE SON,” BY PHILIPP MEYER

From the acclaimed author of “American Rust,” “The Son” is an epic of the American West and a multigenerational saga of power, blood, land, and oil that follows the rise of one unforgettable Texas family, from the Comanche raids of the 1800s to the to the oil booms of the 20th century.

“HOUSE OF HADES” (“HEROES OF OLYMPUS,” BOOK 4),

BY RICK RIORDAN

Fans of the young adult series “Heroes of Olympus” may recall that at the conclusion of “The Mark of Athena,” Annabeth and Percy tumble into a pit leading straight to the Underworld.

Now, the other five demigods have to put aside their grief and follow Percy’s instructions to find the mortal side of the Doors of Death. If they can fight their way through the Gaea’s forces, and Percy and Annabeth can survive the House of Hades, then the Seven will be able to seal the Doors from both sides and prevent the giants from raising Gaea. But, Leo wonders, if the Doors are sealed, how will Percy and Annabeth be able to escape?

“MR. PENUMBRA’S 24-HOUR BOOKSTORE,” BY ROBIN SLOAN

A Winner of the Alex Award, and numerous other “Best of ” awards, Sloan’s novel follows Clay Jannon as the Great Recession has changed his life’s direction, from a tech geek into an employee at, you guessed it, Mr. Penumbra’s bookstore.

After only a few days on the job, Clay discovers the store is more curious than either its name or its gnomic owner might suggest. Clay engineers an analysis, seeking help from his talented friends.

But will they discover the bookstore’s secrets extend far beyond its walls?

“THE GARDEN OF EVENING MISTS,”

BY TAN TWAN ENG

Set in Malaya in 1951, Yun Ling Teoh, the scarred lone survivor of a brutal Japanese wartime camp, seeks solace among the jungle-fringed tea plantations of Cameron Highlands. There she discovers Yugiri, the only Japanese garden in Malaya, and its owner and creator, the enigmatic Aritomo, exiled former gardener of the emperor of Japan. Despite her hatred of the Japanese, Yun Ling seeks to engage Aritomo to create a garden in memory of her sister, who died in the camp. Aritomo refuses but agrees to accept Yun Ling as his apprentice “until the monsoon comes.” Then she can design a garden for herself.

For more, visit mobydickens.com

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TAOS GETS A DOSE OF REALITY:

By Joan Livingston

T

aos got some welcome exposure when hometown talent — two cooks and a fashion designer — competed on separate reality television shows.

At least two did extremely well. The third’s lips are contractually sealed until the show airs Dec. 17.

Hosea Rosenberg, who now lives in Colorado but grew up in Taos, was the winner in Bravo TV’s “Top Chef ” for its fifth season.

Patricia Michaels, a Taos Pueblo fashion designer, was first runner-up of season 11 of the Lifetime network’s “Project Runway.”

Then, Brigitte Pauli-Barlos competed on Food Network’s “Chopped” as one of four cookbook authors.

MEET THE

STARS TOP CHEF

Hosea Rosenberg got his start in culinary arts washing dishes at Taos restaurants before heading to college where he majored in engineering physics. Although a career in science loomed, he was drawn to the energy of the professional kitchen.

“I never liked a job as much as working in the kitchen,” he says.

Rosenberg learned by cooking with noted chefs, including Kevin Taylor, a successful Denver restaurateur.

In 2009, while he was executive chef for JAX Fish House in Boulder, Colo., scouts contacted him about appearing on the show. Rosenberg, who already had done well in competitions, went through the lengthy application process to be a “cheftestant.”

Rosenberg says the six weeks filming the show was a grueling experience. Besides cooking while being filmed constantly, the chefs were not allowed to have any contact with the outside world.

In the end, he created what the judges deemed was the best food of the finalists.

Tina Larkin Chef Hosea Rosenberg on state for the Sept. 18 SMU in Taos/UNM-Taos Fall Lecture Series food talk at the Taos Community Auditorium.

So what has Rosenberg been doing post-Top Chef? He left JAX and now leases a Boulder farm, which is the base for his business, Blackbelly Catering. He and his team create farm-to-table meals for events and in people’s homes.

He still maintains strong ties to Taos, where he has close friends.

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TAOS’ HIPPEST SHOP FOR MEN‘S AND WOMEN’S FASHION, JEWELRY, ACCESSORIES, HOUSE AND KITCHEN WARE, BOOKS, GIFTS, AND LOTS LOTS MORE. AN UPLIFTING SHOPPING EXPERIENCE WITHIN ARMS REACH.

RETAIL ENLIGHTENMENT

SHOP LOCALLY 103C Bent Street | Downtown Taos | 575-758-8590 One Block North of the Plaza | Across from Taos Inn 62

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PROJECT RUNWAY Patricia Michaels is the first Native American contestant on “Project Runway.”

Which was no surprise, because Michaels has been breaking barriers all along during her career as a fashion designer.

A casting agent for “Project Runway” contacted her via email. Michaels hadn’t seen the show before but after renting two seasons, she was convinced she could compete.

TAOS GETS A DOSE OF REALITY Photos by Tina Larkin Patricia Michaels at her design table, above left, and Brigitte Pauli-Barlos in her Taos kitchen.

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She underwent a lengthy application process to qualify as a contestant. Then, during the weeks of competition, contestants for “Project Runway” were sequestered as they tackled challenge after challenge. For instance, in one show the designers had to create breakaway clothes for male strippers.

Then, there was the runway where the designers’ fashions came under the critical eye of judges. Those that didn’t pass muster were cut. As the show’s host Heidi Klum says, “In fashion, one day you’re in and the next you’re out.”

But Michaels persevered until the very end when she was declared first runnerup. Who can forget her clothing line that featured silver and mica paillettes, horsehair and her fabric of choice, silk?

While she didn’t win any money, Michaels says the exposure has been immense. She is busy with orders and hopes to bring a clothing line to New York Fashion Week next year.

Plus she has received a positive response from fans around the world, and importantly tribal youth.

“I have given them the incentive not to give up,” she said.

CHOPPED

Brigitte Pauli-Barlos will appear on “Chopped,” the Food Network show in which four chefs create dishes from a weird assortment of ingredients found in “the mystery basket.” If they don’t meet the judges’ approval, they get chopped.

The episode in which Pauli-Barlos will appear is a two-hour holiday special that features three festive meals: breakfast, lunch and dinner. The judges were Michael Symon, Scott Conant and Amanda Freitag.

Pauli-Barlos says being on the show was a positive experience and that’s about all she can say. Contractually, she can’t even tell her husband, Mark Barlos, the outcome.

“That’s very difficult,” she said. “You are bursting with information you can’t tell.”

Pauli-Barlos applied to be on the show via its website. She practiced on “mystery baskets” at home.

In late August, she drove to New York and back with three friends. She stayed in Secaucus, N.J., where she took public transportation early in the morning to the studio.

The first day, Chef Brigitte, as she was called, signed contracts and with the other contestants and familiarized herself with the cramped TV kitchen. Filming took place the second day.

The prize money is $10,000 for the winner plus great attention for the contestants. In Pauli-Barlos’ case, she got to promote her self-published cookbook, “The Homegrown Gourmet.”

By the way, even losing contestants get paid $75 per hour for the 20 or so hours of filming.

Stay tuned to see how Pauli-Barlos did.

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PHOTOGRAPHY: THE MAGIC HOUR OF WINTER

By Jim O’Donnell

One of the main goals of photography should be to communicate an emotion.

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Jim O'Donnell Light during "magic hour" often has a profound visual effect on the appearance of Taos Mountain, aka Pueblo Peak (at right).

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WAIT FOR JUST THAT RIGHT MOMENT.

B

e it a beautiful plate of food, a stunning landscape or the face of a child, what many photographers seek to do is take the feeling of that moment or place and manifest it for others to experience.

Key to communicating that emotion in photography is the proper use of light. For outdoor photography, where you seek to communicate the feeling of the landscape or the animals who inhabit that landscape, the best light is the warm, soft, colorful and shadowed directional light that comes at the “magic hour.”

Because of the shorter days, winter time is perhaps the best time to take advantage of the magic hour.

The magic hour isn’t just one consecutive hour. There are actually two magic hours, each occurring in half-hour periods in the morning and evening.

The first “magic hour” is the half hour after the sun rises in the morning and the half hour before the sun sets in the evening. This is the best light for amazing landscape shots. Why? It has everything to do with the way the sunlight lays low on the horizon and filters through the atmosphere.

The light is warm and saturated with less white light than you get during the day. Changes in tones are very gentle. This light is also soft and creates shadows. Finally, the low-angle directional nature of this light accentuates textures, folds and shapes in the subject.

The second “magic hour” is the half hour before the sun rises and the half hour after the sun sets. Why? Intensity of colors. The sunlight needs to travel farther through the atmosphere and scatters blue light along its journey. This light only illuminates the clouds given that the sun is below the horizon and so the rest of the landscape is in shadow. This light is soft but with very warm, saturated colors. The second magic hour is a little trickier than the first. If you have heavy cloud cover, the light will be so diffused as to be unhelpful. If there are no clouds at all it can be challenging to take advantage of the un-reflected light. That said, generally this is your moment for those great sunrise or sunset shots.

The key to success here is planning. There are numerous smart phone apps that will tell you exactly what time the sun rises and sets in your area to help you plan. Often times I will just sit and watch for several days to see exactly how the light works with the landscape before deciding exactly how and when to take the shot.

Next, postpone dinner. Tell the family to keep a plate warm for you since you’ll be home a bit late. If it is morning, fill a thermos and pack a snack.

Before taking the shot, compose it and then decide which magic hour light you’re aiming for. Get to your location ahead of time to get all set up.

And then wait. Wait for just that right moment.

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Jim O'Donnell Light and shadow combine to create contrast during "magic hour."

Juicy burgers Cold Beer

Open Daily 11am Daily Specials • Delicious Burgers

Open at- 11am Happydaily Hour Mon. Fri. 575.758.8866 www.thegorgebarandgrill.com 758.8866 • 103 E. Plaza • www.thegorgebarandgrill.com

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Open Daily 11am

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reservations@mosaicfinedining.com 575.751.3438

Located in the legendary La Fonda de Taos hotel on historic Taos Plaza and now reborn as a stunning new restaurant; Mosaic Fine Dining is an ever-changing delight for the palate. Executive Chef and owner George Bartel uses classical French techniques adapted to local, fresh ingredients and a variety of culinary traditions.

d

His creations are a global mosaic of

tastes, flavors, aromas and textures. Whether you choose lunch, dinner, Sunday brunch, or just want to hang out at the bar for a draft and a bite, you’ll find a comfortable atmosphere that delivers the true “Taos experience”.

Historic Taos Plaza, 108A South Plaza, Taos, New Mexico 87571 • www.mosaicfinedining.com Open Tuesday-Saturday and Sunday Brunch, closed Monday | Private dining room available

FINE WINE & LIQUOR

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WINTERTAINMENT W

hile some among us leave it all on the slopes, with no evening plans but a soak in the hot tub, another group of people live for the night. Or at least the early evening. Taos may not be New York City when it comes to night life, but for a small town, there is an impressive amount of fun to be found.

Provided here is a list of venues, bars and restaurants that host live music. It is by no means comprehensive.

ALLEY CANTINA, 121 Teresina Lane, (575) 758-2121; alleycantina.com Located in what is most likely the oldest building in Taos, “The Alley,” as it’s known to locals has live entertainment every night of the week, which usually leads to lots of dancing. The Alley also features shuffleboard, pool, pichenotte and other board games, and a kitchen open until 11 p.m. most nights.

BULL O’ THE WOODS SALOON, 401 E. Main St., Red River, (575) 754-2593; redrivernewmex.com/dining Full service bar with daily happyhour specials, live music, karoake,

pool tables, darts and TVs, with NFL Ticket, for the football fans.

CASA LOS CÓRDOVAS, 330A Paseo del Pueblo Sur, (575) 751-9600; casaloscordovas.com Full lunch and dinner menus, numerous TVs for the game and live entertainment that focuses on regional musicians performing mariachi and ranchero-style music.

EL CAMINO CANTINA, 122C Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos, (575) 758-1779; elcaminonm.com Try one of El Camino’s unique cocktails during happy hour, daily 4-7 p.m. and have a bite of the Southwestern cuisine from the kitchen. El Camino often features

Tina Larkin The dancehall at Old Martina's Hall.

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regional Djs spinning soul, funk, electro, house, hip-hop, dub step and more.

EL MONTE SAGRADO LIVING RESORT & SPA (ANACONDA BAR), 317 Kit Carson Road, (575) 758-3502; elmontesagrado.com As the exotic fish swim in the lavish saltwater aquarium, you might have a bite of casual, yet chic, food while catching a set from a local DJ and hitting the dance floor. Food service until 10 p.m.

ESKE’S BREW PUB, 106 De Georges Lane, (575) 7581517; eskesbrewpub.com Lunch and dinner paired with fresh

beers from the oldest brewery in Taos. Eske’s updates its Facebook page with information about the live music acts that will be performing throughout the season.

HARWOOD MUSEUM OF ART, 238 Ledoux St., (575) 758-9826; harwoodmuseum.org A 90-year-old art museum may not sound like the place for live music, but the Harwood’s Arthur Bell Auditorium is home to the Taos Chamber Music Group’s winter concert series (taoschambermusicgroup.org), special theatrical and musical performances and documentary and art house film screenings.

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By Yvonne Pesquera

BEST PLACES TO FUEL UP Grab a quick breakfast before hitting the slopes

It’s the perfect winter morning: fresh snow fell overnight and it’s a sunny day with bluebird skies. But don’t skip breakfast as you’re racing to area ski resorts to snag fresh tracks.

“When you wake in the morning your brain is in need of glucose to refuel,” says Alicia Esparza, owner of Taos Physical Therapy on Sipapu Street. “Your muscles, bones and joints need iron, calcium and protein to grow.”

So whether your taste is for a fresh-baked goodie or a savory breakfast burrito (with red or green chile — or both?), skiers and

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Tina Larkin Mondo Italiano's espresso bar is open at 7 a.m. Mon.-Fri., and at 8 a.m. on the weekends.

snowboarders have their pick of quick breakfast options throughout Taos.

Here are some options for breakfast (the list is by no means comprehensive).

Taos Physical Therapy has been serving the community since 1984, so Esparza knows about the mountain as well as taking care of the body. She sums it up by saying, “To have an excellent day on the slopes, have an excellent breakfast.”

Call ahead for hours, and for details.

Depending on where you are staying (south side vs. north side) and where you are skiing or riding (Taos Ski Valley, Red River, Sipapu, Angel Fire), your breakfast choices will vary.

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By Teresa Dovalpage

THE SWEET LIFE IN TAOS Six desserts that stand out in a town known for the high quality of its bakeries

A TASTE OF VERACRUZ If you are in downtown Taos, don’t miss Antonio’s — A Taste of Mexico, the recipient of several Best of Taos awards, including first place for Red Chile. This highly rated restaurant is located on Guadalupe Plaza and serves authentic Mexican food, with a Veracruz twist. Food is plenty and delicious but at Antonio’s there is always room for dessert, says manager Benina Roybal. You can’t go wrong with the chimi-chimi, a mini-chimichanga with a combination of cream cheese, mango sauce, and a kick of strawberry inside a cinnamon-coated, deep-fried pastry.

Chimi-chimis are served with a generous portion of vanilla ice cream.

Hot, cold and definitely yummy. Antonio Matus, the owner, came up with the recipe himself.

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Tina Larkin Old Martina's classic fruit tart.

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When only the best will do...

BEST PLACE TO FILL UP YOUR TANK

BEST LIQUOR STORE

BEST GROCERY

Proud to Serve You!

224 Paseo del Pueblo Sur 758-3711 - Grocery 758-4824 - Pharmacy

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THE SWEET LIFE IN TAOS ANTONIO’S: A TASTE OF MEXICO 122 Doña Luz St., Taos (575) 751-4800; antoniosoftaos.com

DRAGONFLY CAFÉ & BAKERY 402 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos (575) 737-5859; dragonflytaos.com

MONDO ITALIANO 622 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos (575) 758-1329; mondoitalianiotaos.com

OLD CASA CONTINENTAL 1014 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos (575) 758 4522

OLD MARTINA’S HALL 4140 State Road 68, Ranchos de Taos (575) 758-3003; oldmartinashall.com

ORLANDO’S NEW MEXICAN CAFÉ 1114 Don Juan Valdez Lane, Taos (575) 751-1450; orlandostaos.com

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By Teresa Dovalpage

HOT CHOCOLATE, NOT JUST FOR KIDS ANYMORE

The Mayans knew it: Chocolate isn’t just a delicious treat, it’s also good for your health.

T

he mention of hot chocolate conjures images of blissful winter evenings — snow falling outside, a warm fireplace in a cozy room and fingers curling around a steaming mug. Yet chocolate is also a health food; research has shown that it boosts the brain’s blood supply and is full of antioxidants.

For this article, we researched a number of coffee houses and restaurants in Taos where you can indulge, guilt-free, in the chocolate experience.

ORGANIC AND ARTISTIC The Farmhouse Café and Bakery, in the Overland Ranch complex on the north side of Taos in the community of El Prado, serves a sensational hot chocolate in tall mugs. The mugs feature “Taos quotes,” and are made by local artist Mandy Stapleford.

“We strive to combine local art and local food,” said owner Micah Roseberry. The Farmhouse hot chocolate is made with a base of organic milk, though they can also use soy or almond milk, depending

on people’s dietary needs. The chocolate is fair-trade, and also has cacao in it. Roseberry adds a hint of cinnamon and the light spiciness of chile to the mix. She then crowns it with organic whipped cream and a shave of chocolate on top. Pair it with homemade bread pudding and you will get the perfect winter snack.

THE BEST OF THREE WORLDS Gutiz, known for its Latin-French fusion cuisine, offers two distinctive kinds of hot chocolate, each prepared with its own special recipe. You can

warm your belly with a Mexican hot chocolate infused with red chile and cinnamon, or try something even more unusual, the very own Gutiz hot chocolate, prepared with rich cocoa and a hint of yellow curry and cinnamon — a surprisingly delicious combination of flavors that results in an intense and savory drink.

“Some customers like to mix them and have the curry, the chile and the cinnamon together,” said Gutiz coowner Jennifer Paterson. “The best of three worlds!”

Both are topped with whipped cream.

DROP A ROCK IN YOUR CHOCOLATE Looking for “purrfect” drinks with a lot of oomphs? Coffee Cats, located in the historic John Dunn House Shops, serves a big selection of espresso, chocolate and chai drinks. The place is also known for its rock bar — patrons can create a “rocktail” using natural stones like aventurine, amethyst, jasper, smoky quartz or citrine. You can’t go wrong with the Ocelot (a chocolate hazelnut latte) or the Black Panther (a chocolate raspberry latte). Both come with a generous amount of whipped cream on top and are made with Ghirardelli chocolate.

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Tina Larkin Hot chocolate in one of Farmhouse CafÊ and Bakery’s signature mugs.

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Teresa Dovalpage Gutiz house hot chocolate prepared with rich cocoa, yellow curry and cinnamon — have it with one or all three ingredients.

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CHOCOLART World Cup Café is well known for its coffee drinks but its Mexican hot chocolate deserves extra praise. This spicy and rich mix comes with whipped cream and a dusting of cinnamon, which the barista uses to make a beautiful design, almost too cute to drink. There is a selection of pastries as well and the almond croissants make a great companion to the hot chocolate.

CHOCOLATE ON THE SNOW Want to drink something warm without unbuckling your boots? With two convenient locations in Taos Ski Valley, Black Diamond Espresso serves hot coffee and chocolate drinks

as well as energy boosters, which makes it the perfect place for a short and comforting stop in the middle of a long ski day.

“It’s the right spot to go for a cup of hot chocolate when you start to feel tired and cold,” says regular client Gary James.

They are called “the hot chocolate experts in the ski valley” and offer a variety of drinks made with dark, white and Mexican chocolate.

“If you are hungry, they also have fresh baked treats and granola,” said James. One location is in the resort center, on the upper deck and the other one, mostly accessible to skiers, is right on the snow, in front of the Phoenix Grill, by Chairlift # 4.

HOT CHOCOLATE STOPS: FARMHOUSE CAFÉ AND BAKERY 1405 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos (575) 758-5683; farmhousecafeandbakery.com GUTIZ 812 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos (575) 758-1226; gutiztaos.com COFFEE CATS 124 F Bent St.; (575) 758-0606 WORLD CUP CAFE 102 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos; (575) 737-5299 BLACK DIAMOND ESPRESSO 122 Sutton Place, Taos Ski Valley; (575) 770-3122

Photos by Tina Larkin Clockwise from top right: Coffee Cats’ Ocelot, a chocolate hazelnut latte, top, and the Black Panther chocolate raspberry latte; World Cup Cafe’s world-class Mexican hot chocolate; Farmhouse Café and Bakery’s baked goods can be the perfect match for the restaurant’s hot chocolate; and Black Diamond Espresso at Taos Ski Valley.

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Photos Courtesy Red River Ski Area Above, Kai Dunbar, a traditionally trained chef, boasts a “global” food experience and features bold flavors in his meals, which he terms a “labor of love.”

Below, your carriage awaits for the Red River Snow Coach Dinner Tours.

SNOW COACH DINNER TOURS:

a high-dining experience

A

INSIDER TIPS Although the snow coach is heated, warm footwear and clothing is recommended.

Temperatures in the evening can be well below freezing.

fter a successful first season in 201213, Red River Ski Area’s Snow Coach Dinner Tour is back this winter. This is a unique way to experience great food and a cozy enjoyable ride in Red River Ski Area’s newest snowcat.

The tour starts at the base area lodge and ascends 1,600-vertical-feet to the Ski Tip Restaurant. Chef Kai Dunbar welcome guests into the restaurant with open arms. After a three-course dinner, guests pile back into the heated snow cat for the descent. The lights of Red River twinkle in the distance as you make your way down the front side of the mountain. Be sure and ask your driver to cruise down The Face for some added excitement. Round trip times vary due to conditions but the average trip, including the meal, takes about two hours.

Beer and wine are available for purchase.

Snow Coach tours are group and family friendly. Be sure to let your reservation agent know if you are traveling with a group.

Group rates are available. Call for pricing and availability.

A three-course dinner is provided, with two entrees to choose from and includes nonalcoholic beverages.

DATES OF OPERATION AND TIMES There are two departure times each evening, 5:30 and 7:30 p.m. Tours dates are dependent on snow conditions. Projected dates are Dec. 20 through March 22.

RESERVATIONS Reservations are required. Red River Ski Area encourages guests to reserve tours well in advance of arrival by calling (575) 754-2223.

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Each tour will accommodate up to 12 people.

There must be a minimum of eight people for the tour to go out.

LOCATION Tours take off promptly at 5:30 and 7:30 p.m., so be ready to leave by your designated times. The Snow Coach driver will meet you on the deck at the main chalet. Tickets are held in the Guest Service office located on the lower level of the main chalet.

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WINE & BEER

festivals loom large for oenophiles & cerevisaphiles

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he term oenophile is often used to describe someone who is a fan of all things involving good wine. In fact, it’s Greek for the love (philia) of wine (oinos).

A similar term for beer lovers hasn’t taken off, though realbeer.com contributor Gregg Smith offered up the term cerevisaphile, twisting the Latin root for beer, cerevisia, with “philia.” It’s a nice effort but it hasn’t really gotten any traction, except with some dyed-in-the-wool beer geeks.

For the

LOVE of wine and beer

Here in Taos, it doesn’t matter what you call it, the winter season has an event for wine lovers and one for cerevisaphiles too.

TAOS WINTER WINE FESTIVAL The 28th annual Taos Winter Wine Festival is a five-day event (Jan. 29-Feb. 2), which takes place in the town of Taos and at Taos Ski Valley (with a couple of winery dinners in Santa Fe).

Beginning Jan. 29, the festival will sponsor a series of winery dinners, apres-ski tastings, seminars and the reserve and grand tastings, all at various establishments in the area. At least 38 wineries from all over the world will be participating at the events, which will be held at as many as 20 local restaurants and other venues such as the Harwood Museum and the TSV Resort Center.

To register for the seminars, the Taste of Taos Reserve and the Grand Tasting, visit taoswinterwinefest.com. The dinners and apres-ski events are priced individually and reservations must be made by contacting the restaurants directly.

BREW ON IT Similar to the beverages that inspire the events, the 17th annual Brew Master’s Festival is a simpler (less complex?) event than the Wine Festival. Enjoy an afternoon of food and beer at Taos Ski Valley on Dec. 21, from 4:30 to 7 p.m. The event will be held at Tenderfoot Katie’s and the Martini Tree, located right at the base of Chair #1. Admission is $25, which includes a souvenir sampling glass and food.

Tickets may be bought at the door the day of the event. Last year, more than 15 regional breweries participated. The Brew Master’s Festival is a 21 and over event, no infants or children. For more information, visit skitaos.org 92

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Photo by Tina Larkin

Ride the Sleigh Scenic and Dinner Sleigh Rides

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OJO CALIENTE Sulphur-free waters are calling your name

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o many visitors, Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort and Spa is one of Northern New Mexico’s most appealing destinations.

The resort markets itself as the premier retreat for the tired skier. Located less than 70 miles away from Northern New Mexico’s most popular ski resorts, including Taos Ski Valley (64 miles), Angel Fire Resort (68 miles), Ski Santa Fe (68) miles and Pajarito Mountain Ski Area (49).

Because of its convenient location, it’s no wonder skiers have deemed it the best way to relax after a long day on the slopes. Show any New Mexico lift ticket or season pass and receive a 20 percent discount off entry into the springs, or on lodging.

The springs themselves offer a unique experience, as the only resort in the U.S. to have four sulphur-free springs. In total the resort has 11 different mineral pools. Ojo Caliente offers both public and private pools. The resort also offers other various spa treatments and a fine-dining experience. The Artesian Restaurant offers a menu of Southwestern dishes to enjoy after your relaxing day in the springs or at the spa. The resort is also one of the oldest of its kind in the United States. Opened in 1868, the Ojo Caliente celebrating its 145th anniversary.

Spa treatments at Ojo Caliente are diverse, borrowing from both Native American and East Indian styles. The different treatments range from restorative treatments to hydrating wraps.

There is a variety of lodging options available for anyone who wants to come experience the springs. People may choose private homes, cottages, kivas or the Historic Hotel. Those who are less interested in skiing but still want to experience the outdoors will have the opportunity to either hike or bike on the numerous trails.

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Courtesy Ojo Caliente/Ryan Heffernan Photography Enjoy an apres-ski soak at Ojo Caliente.

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WINTER IN TAOS: snowshoeing preparation

By Cindy Brown

W

hen the snow gets too deep to hike through, find some snowshoes and head out. If there is more than five to six inches of snow or if you find yourself stepping down through the crust (aka “post holing”) it is time to dig the snowshoes out of the closet or rent some at a local outfitter.

While it takes more energy to walk in snowshoes, you’ll be able to go farther in areas of deep snow and reduce the risk of injury.

PLACES TO GO For snow-covered trails, explore those near Taos Ski Valley, including Long Canyon, Bull-ofthe-Woods, and Williams Lake. For overnight trips, the Southwest Nordic Center has a yurt for rent. It is located approximately two miles up the Bull-of-the-Woods trail. The yurt has a wood-burning stove and space for four to 10 people. Described as the first winter backcountry yurt in New Mexico, it is 24 feet across. To reserve it, call (575) 758-4761.

The trails located on the Ski Valley Road (State Road 150), including Yerba, Manzanita, Italianos, and Gavilan offer some uphill workouts, generally with creek crossings and more snow as you gain elevation. All of these trails begin above 8,000 feet and have some steeper sections, so be prepared for high country conditions and rest frequently as you climb.

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Albertson’s Supermarket Beall’s Department Store Family Dollar Payless ShoeSource Taos Tack Star Nails Taos Eyewear Taos Herb Co. Colonial Finance Burger King Domino’s Pizza Venus Fashion Sun Loan Company Rent-a-Center Jane Compton, Optometrist ILLUSION SALON taos lifestyle & sleep sanctuary

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Cruz Alta Shopping Center For Leasing Information call 575-741-0220 1100 Paseo del Pueblo Sur • Taos

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FULL SERVICE SALON, SPA & BARBER SHOP Walk-ins Welcome or By Appointment

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Walmart We are proud to announce the grand re-opening of your Walmart Store More space for what you want more of!

We listened to you, Taos! Come explore your new Walmart’s expanded grocery options including more frozen foods. Plus, enjoy better lighting, new carts and a faster way to checkout with new self-checkouts.

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A

nother option is to head out of town on State Road 518 to the Amole Canyon, which is just about 30 minutes from downtown. It is one of the closest areas and has good trails for snowshoeing and cross country skiing.

For those looking for something with more amenities, try the Enchanted Forest Cross Country Ski Area. It has flatter terrain and staff on hand to help with gear and also come find you, if you get lost. The area is in its 29th year and has 18 kilometers of marked trails through the Carson National Forest. Located, three miles east of Red River, there are guided tours and moonlight outings. New this year is dinner, served as part of the moonlight hikes at the yurt.

For more information, call (575) 754-6112 or visit enchantedforestxc.com.

Taos Snowshoe Adventures offers winter snowshoe tours with an experienced guide on a variety of trails and locations throughout the Enchanted Circle. Packages include a two-hour “Learn to Snowshoe Clinic,” a halfday “Explorer” and a full-day “Trekker.” Taos Snowshoe Adventures also offers full-moon treks, overnight yurt trips and Williams Lake tours. Snowshoes and poles provided. Call (800) 758-5262 or visit snowshoetaos.com for information.

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WHAT TO WEAR In addition to the basic layers you need for hiking, add gaiters or wind- and water-resistant pants to help keep the snow out of your boots, because some snowshoes kick snow up as you walk. Some people prefer taller boots for snowshoeing.

SAFETY Call (575)758-6200 or stop by the office of the Carson National Forest, at 208 Cruz Alta Road, to ask about current snow conditions and avalanche danger.

BEST ADVICE FOR BEING OUTDOORS IN THE WINTER “Don’t overdress. Imagine you were going for a brisk fall hike, rather than downhill skiing.

At the same time, be prepared. Bring some extra layers, in case the snow moves in during the day.” —Geoff Goins, Enchanted Forest Cross Country Ski Area “Layer.” —Elena Lombard, Mudd-n-Flood

WHERE TO FIND SNOWSHOES For sale: Taos Mountain Outfitters, 114 South Plaza, (575) 758-9292; taosmountainoutfitters.com Mudd-n-Flood Mountain Shop, 103A Bent Street, (575) 751-9100; muddnflood.com For rent: Cottam’s Ski Shops, midtown location (575) 758-2822 or Taos Ski Valley (575) 776-8719; cottamsskishops.com Enchanted Forest Cross Country Ski Area, 29 Sangre de Cristo Drive, Red River (575) 754-6112; enchantedforestxc.com Mudd-n-Flood, 103A Bent St., (575) 751-9100; muddnflood.com

Photo by Gak Stonn Snowshoeing is a great way to get the whole family out playing in the snow.

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FREEHEELING IN TAOS: telemark skiing is increasingly popular in the Enchanted Circle

By Virginia L. Clark

T

ele boots clean and ready at the front door — check; Tele skis tuned and waxed — check; pole baskets and grips — check, check, check. Time to head for the slopes, and fresh powder for fresh tracks.

No pipe dream for snow cats (the human kind). They’ll put up with anything The Mountain throws at them. Why? The turns, pure and simple.

And Telemark turns are inching up on the radar as snow-sport lovers look for new ways to play on the white stuff.

Sipapu has the most singular Tele activity in the area. Its Telemark Festival and Free-Heel Fray detailed in this article are simply mustdos for free-heelers. Taos Ski Valley pulls out all the stops with daily Tele lessons, weekly clinics, tele ski weeks and more; plus it has that outrageous mountain all skiers love.

So before you call in sick (of work) to hit the slopes, take a look at what’s happening up here in the Taos area. There’s probably enough to keep you busy “recuperating” for a good two weeks. If you live here, well, you know the drill.

Photo by Tina Larkin Telemark skiing, also known as “free-heel skiing,” is a form of downhill skiing using bindings similar to cross-country skiing where the boot is attached only at the toe.

Story continued on page 106

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TELEMARK SKIING IS OFTEN CALLED FREEHEELING, BECAUSE ONLY THE TOE OF THE TELEMARK SKI BOOT IS ATTACHED TO THE SKI, ALLOWING A TELEMARKER TO LUNGE OR KNEEL ON THE UPHILL SKI WHILE TURNING ON THE DOWNHILL SKI. TAOS SKI VALLEY RESORT A full Telemark experience is offered at Taos Ski Valley because Tele skiing is recognized by the Ernie Blake Snowsport School to teach balance and finesse, ultimately being helpful in any alpine or snowsport activities. All pricing is subject to change and lift tickets must be purchased separately.

Photo by Tina Larkin Hank King, adult Snowsports School Coordinator and PSIA Telemark Examiner/Alpine Trainer, shows student Virginia L. Clark key moves in Telemark skiing last winter on Strawberry Hill at Taos Ski Valley.

Taos Ski Valley is located 11 miles northeast of Taos. For more information, call (575) 7762291 or see skitaos.org.

Story continued from page 106

*Tele rentals, (includes skis, boots and poles) $39 per day or $37 per two-day package, including free overnight storage. This is a significant boost to skiers wanting to stretch their skills and try something new, without a major investment.

SIPAPU SKI & SUMMER RESORT Sipapu’s becoming legendary for its Telemark Festival and the skin-up, ski-down race mid-January, all topped off with Santa Fe Brewing’s “Happy Hops Hunt” that gets cranking that same weekend. Sipapu is geared to people looking for an inexpensive, family friendly winter adventure with something for everyone. *Telemark Festival • Jan. 18, 2014 9 a.m.-4 p.m.

Located 20 miles southeast of Taos, the free Telemark clinics and personal instruction will be available all day during Sipapu’s annual Telemark Festival, happening Saturday, Jan.18. (At press time, no Tele rentals are available.) For more information, visit Sipapunm.com or call 800-587-2240. *Free-Heel Fray • Jan. 18, 2014 4:30 p.m.

Sipapu’s fourth annual Telemark race happens Saturday, Jan. 18. Meet at the base area after the lifts close and join the Freeheel Fray as participants skin-up and ski-down the mountain. Great prizes are awarded and Santa Fe Brewing will be at the finish line with beer specials and prizes for everyone. This is a fun event that is growing in popularity for all 106

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Telemark enthusiasts — or those just looking to have a good time after the lifts close. And while this is a Telemark event, everyone is invited: AT, split boards, snowshoes, etc. are all welcome. *Santa Fe Brewing Happy Hops Hunt 9 a.m.-4 p.m.

The Happy Hops Hunt is a scavenger hunt, during which Santa Fe Brewing stashes SFB cans stuffed with prizes all over Sipapu’s mountain.

Watch Facebook (facebook/com/Sipapu) and Twitter (twitter.com/Sipapunm) pages on the day of the event for tips to find the hidden cans. You redeem prizes at the base area while enjoying SFB beer specials.

SOUTHWESTERN NORDIC CENTER Open year-round, the Bull Of The Woods “Taos Yurt” is in close proximity to extensive Telemarking terrain. Besides adrenalin junky lines off the above-treeline ridge, there are breathtaking vistas as well. Hand-crafted for overnight lodging in the mountains, the yurt can handle groups up to 10. Access to Telemark and alpine skiing is just beyond the yurt, which is two miles up from the Bull of the Woods trailhead, at the top of the Taos Ski Valley parking lot. (Don’t park in signed “No overnight parking” areas. Snowshoes or climbing skins are recommended in winter. For details, call (575) 758-4761 or email yurt@newmex.com.

*Two-day Tele Sport Camps, Saturday and Sunday academies offer eight hours of total lessons over two days. Reservations recommended. *Telemark Ski Week, two hours each morning, Monday through Friday — all levels welcome. *Telemark Sunday Clinics, two-hour lesson, meets every week at 12:45 p.m. *Telemark Locals Clinics, five consecutive, locals-priced, weekly lessons, 2 ½ hours each with the same instructor, either Wednesday afternoons, Saturday mornings or Sunday afternoons, tailored to all ability levels, *Two-day Telemark Clinic, in March, offers two days of all-day skiing from 9:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m., with an hour for lunch. Guaranteed to get you off your “heels” and freewheeling all over the mountain. Call for current dates and prices.

Tele skiing is allowed at the Angel Fire and Red River ski areas, but no rentals or lessons are available.

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Kevin Rebholtz There’s nothing quite like fresh powder turns at Taos Ski Valley.

“...IT’S OUR FAVORITE (AND SECRET?) “POWDER STASH.” Story continued from page 108

ANGEL FIRE

The floor of the Moreno Valley sits at 8,300-plus feet above sea level, surrounded by snow-capped peaks. That means a perfect pocket to catch midwinter dumps rolling through the region.

Angel Fire Resort’s trails and slope wrap around most of the mountain, and here’s where inveterate snowboarder and Angel Fire Resort marketing coordinator Michael Johnstone would go: “The locals take the first chairs on the Chile Express and head straight to the quieter backside.

Minder Binder is close and steep, Nice Day has two challenging fall lines, and Hells Bells offers easier black-diamond freshies. After a big storm, Upper Domingo is highly recommended. It has a great fall line and the Hollywood factor of skiing under the chairlift. Silver Chute and Maxwell’s Grant are steep, narrow and often overlooked.”

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SIPAPU

Tucked away up the narrow Río Pueblo valley with a base elevation of 8,200 feet, Sipapu is well-positioned to catch a powder dump. Facing primarily northward and fully treed, Sipapu specializes in narrow trails that hold their snow.

Here’s what someone who should know, mountain manager John Paul Bradley, has to say about grabbing the freshest freshies at Sipapu: “One of the best places on our mountain to find those hidden powder stashes is on Upper Chopos, between No Caboose and Worm (on the upper mountain. That’s where some of the best snow always is. The slope angle there is nice, and the northern exposure is perfect. There’s a lot of pine and aspen, and the tree spacing is fantastic.

“Plus, to get to it, you have to go half-way down

No Caboose — which means that a lot of guests don’t see the trail and it’s missed a lot. The snow loads in there.”

RED RIVER

The Río Colorado valley is steep-sided and narrow, and the town of Red River is known as much for its frigid winter temps as Texas barbecue and motorcycles. Cold air gets trapped in there, and snow storms can be very local — and very heavy.

Here’s where assistant ski school director Scott Latham, a longtime Red River skier, heads on a powder day: “I’ve got a couple of favorites. I like Miner’s Alley off the Copper Chair. It doesn’t get skied a lot, mostly by locals. It’s a natural chute with a natural half-pipe farther down. It bumps out nice because the locals who ski it are pretty good. Same for anything on the Silver Chair in what we call the West Bowl. Rainbow’s End is great, and it bumps out nicely after it gets skied a bit.

“Each one faces a good direction so that they don’t get much direct sun and they are steeper terrain.

You can return to them a day or two later, and they’ll still be tracks to make.”

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Steven Bundy Elk herds can often be seen on the Taos Plateau, part of the new RĂ­o Grande del Norte National Monument.

T

he Cebolla Mesa hike is for the slightly more adventurous. From Taos, drive north on State Road 522 toward the village of Questa. Between mile markers 15 and 16 is a sign for Forest Road 9 to the west. Follow that dirt and gravel road four miles to the trailhead. Note this road can be challenging when wet but for those who push

on through, a fabulous one-mile hike to the river awaits.

North of Questa is the Wild Rivers Recreation Area, where you can find a wide range of moderately difficult hikes into the gorge and an easy loop trail along the rim.

Standing on the edge of the gorge in a blizzard

might give you second thoughts about heading down the steep trails in the wilds hundreds of feet below. This is a good thing. With a little extra preparation however you have little to fear.

(See preparation tips on page 118.)

El RĂ­o Grande National Monument offers some incredible winter outdoor experiences.

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CASA BENAVIDES

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CASA ESCONDIDA BED & BREAKFAST

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LA POSADA DE TAOS BED & BREAKFAST...

A PLACE LIKE NO OTHER! La Posada de Taos is a historic adobe inn just two blocks from the Taos Plaza.

As the first B&B in Taos, La Posada is unique among the town’s small Inns.

The home has stayed true to its roots as a Pueblo-style Hacienda.

The six guest rooms are each decorated in a style true to Taos & original artwork adorns the walls throughout the home.

309 Juanita Lane, Taos 800-645-4803 www.laposadadetaos.com

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Choose from 16 outstanding Bed & Breakfast inns, each providing an authentic New Mexican charm ranging from rustic to artistically inspired. Find the perfect place from which to discover Taos. www.taosbandbinns.com

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MABEL DODGE LUHAN HOUSE HISTORIC INN AND CONFERENCE CENTER Warm adobe charm and early century elegance in a secluded setting with panoramic views. Walk to the plaza. Full gourmet breakfast. www.mabeldodgeluhan.com • 575-751-9686 or 800-846-2235

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TAOS SKI VALLEY UPGRADES: TSV master plan includes lift to Kachina Peak, among other long-term plans

By J.R. Logan

I

t hasn’t been easy for Taos Ski Valley to watch its skier numbers dip over the last 10 years while resorts in Colorado and other parts of the West have seen visitation rise.

Taos finally opened to snowboards in 2008, but lifting that ban hasn’t been enough to stem the tide. Resort heads say they need things like new lifts, more gladed terrain and an upgraded base area to stay in the game.

“We feel strongly that we need to upgrade our product to stay competitive,” says Gordon Briner, Taos Ski Valley COO. To improve its notoriety, the resort put together a new “Master Plan” that was approved by the National Forest Service a year ago. The “Master Plan” is something like a multi-million dollar to-do list.

Item No. 1 on that list: build a chairlift to the top of Kachina Peak.

“Taos Ski Valley has some of the greatest terrain in North America,” Briner says. “All we’re really doing is making it more accessible for more people.”

Reaching the 12,481-foot summit of Kachina currently requires a 45-minute hike that can be daunting for many. Briner said the proposed Main Street Lift is expected to cost between $2.5 and $3 million and will shuttle skiers and boarders right to the top, greatly expanding the resort’s lift-served acreage.

Briner points to other mountains in the region — Telluride, Breckenridge, Big Sky — that have installed lifts to expand expert terrain, some of which was previously only hike-to. He says those mountains reported positive reactions, even from those who were worried that the lifts would ruin hard-to-reach places.

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Kevin Rebholtz Reaching Kachina Peak currently requires a 45-minute hike.

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B

riner hopes Taos locals who are also wary will see the benefit of the new lift. He is quick to note that, under the Master Plan, more than 50 percent of Taos’ hike-to terrain won’t be accessible by a lift.

“It’s something that we’re pretty damn sensitive to because a lot of us enjoy that hike-to terrain,” Briner says. “We think the hike-to-only experience is an important experience, that’s why we’re preserving more than half of it.”

Briner calls the Main Street Lift a “top priority” but the resort has yet to announce publicly when it will begin construction.

Also near the top of the to-do list is the possible replacement of Lift 5 with a high-speed lift. Taos has relatively short ride times, even without high-speed lifts, but the resort sees it as part of the modernization process.

“We realize there is a perception issue because most people are looking for high-speed lifts as part of their criteria [for selecting a destination],” Briner says.

Investing in a high-speed lift can be pricey. Briner expects it would cost about $5 million, and he says the resort will likely wait to gauge the success of the Main Street Lift before moving forward on a lift replacement.

In addition to new lifts, Taos Ski Valley is also planning to create new gladed areas on the resort’s far western boundary off Lift 8. A new tubing hill, snowshoeing trail and redesigned base area are also completed or in the works.

Kevin Rebholtz Runs like Stauffenberg, and 50 percent of the current hike-to terrain, will not be affected by a lift to Kachina Peak.

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While all the improvements are meant to up Taos’ status in a competitive industry, Briner points out that the existing mountain is still held in high regard. The mountain is regularly included on “Top” lists, including a 19th place ranking on SKI Magazine’s Best in the West list, beating out heavyweights like Squaw Valley and Alta.

Briner expects the new work will likely improve that standing.

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MIGRATION: THERE, AND BACK... AGAIN

By Steve Tapia

“W

ild beasts and birds are by right not the property merely of people of today, but the property of the unborn generations, whose belongings we have no right to squander…”

— Theodore Roosevelt Hundreds of species include New Mexico in their annual migration pattern. Here’s a look at the migration habits of several local animals, including the bald eagle, Kokanee salmon and migrating birds in general.

Most of us have some familiarity with the concept of migration, in particular bird migration. We envision wedges of geese flying south in the fall, songbirds appearing in the spring, or maybe salmon returning to their native streams to spawn. Animals usually migrate to exploit a habitat that is more bountiful. When conditions deteriorate — the temperature drops or food runs out — migratory animals leave.

But how do we know if an animal is migrating or just looking for the next rich patch of food?

In “Nature’s Flyers” by David E. Alexander, the author states that migrating animals tend to show distinctive behaviors, like storing up fat reserves, moving along straight paths, and stopping to feed less often. The ability to fly

Steven Bundy The blue heron is one bird which finds itself visiting New Mexico in the winter.

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is a great advantage for migrants, regardless of the distance traveled. The Arctic turn holds the long-distance migration record for birds, traveling between Arctic breeding grounds and the Antarctic each year. Other birds may only fly to lower elevations on the same mountain in the winter.

Let’s look at the Kokanee salmon, a species you might not think of as migratory, or as living in Northern New Mexico. Kokanee is a land-locked salmon, meaning it retains all the behaviors of a sea-going salmon, but there is no ocean to complete its journey. The kokanee in Eagle Nest Lake are a good example. Kokanee (Oncorhyncus nerka) are sockeye salmon that spend their entire lives in freshwater, and are usually found in lakes that have either limited or no access to the ocean. Kokanee tend to be smaller in size than sockeye, the average length being 10- to 18-inches long and the weight being 1 to 4 pounds.

They exhibit similar markings and coloration to sockeye salmon, with bright silver sides, bluishblack tops and white bellies. Before spawning, kokanee will turn bright red with green heads; the males will also develop a humped back and hooked jaw. Kokanee are native to Alaska,

British Columbia, Pacific Northwest United States, Siberia and Japan, but they have been introduced into lakes, such as Eagle Nest, and hatcheries all over North America.

After reaching maturity around 3 or 4 years of age, kokanee return to the streams where they were born, and spawn between August and November. Spawning may occur in an inlet stream or on gravel beds on the lakeshore.

The adult fish die within days of spawning.

The fertilized eggs will develop in the gravel for 1 to 2 months and emerge as “alevins”.

The alevins will remain in the gravel until they have consumed their attached yolk sac and then emerge from the gravel as fry, or as my friend would call them, “baby fish,” and swim downstream to the lake where they will develop into mature adults and begin the life cycle all over again.

Finally, for those who want to see some wildlife, the Rocky Mountains have always been a haven for the bald eagle (Haliaetis leucocephalus), and this easily recognized bird is a source of inspiration and wonder to tourists and locals.

Bald eagles also cast their spell on American Indians as this widespread raptor is symbolically represented in totems, headdresses and folklore.

T

he decision to select the bald eagle as the United States’ national emblem was made in 1782 because of the bird’s perceived fierce demeanor. Bald eagles can be seen during the winter on the Río Grande, according to river rangers with the U.S. Bureau of Land Management. Smaller eagles show up in late fall but the larger migrant eagles won’t arrive until sometime in November from Alaska, Canada and the Northwest Territories.

The bald eagle does have a spectacular “aerial courtship dance,” in which the male and female birds lock talons and fall from the air with a series of somersaults. I got to see this courtship dance when I was working at Trempealeau National Wildlife Refuge in Wisconsin in the 1980s. It was the coolest thing I had ever seen.

The bald eagle is very easily distinguished from other birds by its very large size (30- to 43- inch body, 5.5- to 8-foot wingspan), white head and tail, dark brown body, yellow beak and feet, and yellow eyes. Ninety percent of the eagles diet is fish, supplemented by small birds and mammals like prairie dogs, ground squirrels and rabbits. The immature bald eagle can be distinguished from the golden eagle by its unfeathered yellow legs, whereas a golden eagle has heavily feathered legs and feet down to its toes.

Steve Tapia is a retired wildlife biologist who worked 23 years with the U.S. Forest Service and four years with the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.

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A small village with a lot to offer

arroyo seco No visit to the Taos area is complete without stopping in Arroyo Seco, the village everyone has to slow down through on the way to Taos Ski Valley. Well, instead of just slowing down, take some time and stop, you might be glad you did.

SHOPPING

For many people, in addition to the quaint feel of the village, Arroyo Seco is all about shopping. With several galleries and boutique shops, mostly all within easy walking distance, locals and visitors can easily kill an afternoon searching for gifts or finding a piece of art to take home.

Taos News File Photo “Downtown” Arroyo Seco.

sculpture), Francesca’s (women’s clothing), Once Consignment, Weaving Southwest and the Arroyo Seco Mercantile, which has a bit of everything.

GRAB A BITE

The tiny village has its own grocery store, Sol Food Natural Market, a natural food store. There are also a handful of places to eat, including green chile stalwarts Abe’s Cantina, localvores Aceq, ice cream legends Taos Cow and fine-dining establishment Sabroso.

LODGING

Arroyo Seco features pottery (Rottenstone Gallery and Scott Carlson Pottery), contemporary art (Doug West Gallery), fine art photography (Jack Leustig Imaging), and folk art (Santos y Mas). Des Montes Art Gallery and Sculpture Garden is also a short drive from downtown Arroyo Seco.

If all of the above, along with proximity to Taos Ski Valley, has you wanting to spend the night in Arroyo Seco, the village also has a few quality lodging accommodations. Casa Miguel (a vacation rental that sleeps eight); Salsa del Salto Bed and Breakfast; Northstar (vacation rentals with amenities such as a hot tub and indoor swimming pool); Los Altos vacation home rentals; and a quirky hostel in downtown Arroyo Seco known as the Abominable Snowmansion. Cottonwood Inn Bed & Breakfast is also a short drive away, toward Taos on State Road 150.

Gifts can also be found at shops like Antiquarius Imports (Central Asian and African home furnishings and more), Claire Works (jewelry and

For a complete rundown on the village of Arroyo Seco, look them up at visitseco.com.

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“Top ten ice cream shops in the country.”

-

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Sabroso is located 4.8 miles NE of the intersection of State Road 64 and State Road 150 (Taos Ski Valley Road).

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To Taos Ski Valley Arroyo Seco

To Colorado 150

522 64 To Rio Grande Gorge Bridge

Traffic Light

N 64

Sabroso means delicious.

Taos Pueblo

TAOS Taos Plaza To Sante Fe

64 68

To Angel Fire

Open nightly from And now that it’s wintertime, Sabroso also means aprÊs ski. Dining by the fire, signature hot cocktails, and wood grilled steaks and salmon.

Sabroso always means fine American and global cuisine, a fully-stocked bar and wine cellar, with live music and a value-priced menu in the piano bar. Awarded the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence 2007 through 2012.

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4:30 to closing Located on Ski Valley Road in Arroyo Seco Reservations: 575-776-3333 sabrosotaos.com

WHERE THE LOCALS GO! Fresh Homemade Food

Take-out Food, Groceries, Package Beer, Wine & Spirits Ice & ATM Available Cocina 7 am - 5 pm Open until 8 pm Fridays (575) 776-8516 Cantina Open 9 am (575) 776-8643

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ENCHANTED FOREST E

nchanted Forest is an apt name for New Mexico’s premier cross-country ski and snowshoe center.

Set in the rolling terrain of the Sangre de Cristo mountains, alongside Bobcat Pass just outside the town of Red River, the scenery and views are enough to convert even the most hard-core gravity skier. The ski school makes learning easy with a teaching center right at the base staffed with dedicated (and all Professional Ski Instructors of American-certified XC) skiers who know the latest techniques and remember the old ways too.

The well-marked and signed trails feature a set track, skating lanes, plus 18 kilometers of snowshoe terrain to provide skiers and ’shoers with an instant escape into the aspen and conifer forests. Views from the area of the Wheeler Peak Wilderness Area, New Mexico’s highest point,

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Latir Wilderness, Gold Hill Wilderness and the numerous peaks in the Carson National Forest are spectacular.

And the town of Red River offers plenty of lodging, restaurants and amenities just three miles west. Helping lovers of winter experience the grandeur of New Mexico’s portion of the Rocky Mountains in a peaceful, affordable way is what this wonderful area is all about.

WHAT’S NEW AT ENCHANTED FOREST?

New midway warming yurt at the Sherwood Forest, Little John intersection • Guided Moonlight ski and snowshoe dinner tours to our new midway yurt • The ladies weekly ski and snowshoe days returns by popular demand • A second overnight rental yurt at the Wheeler Peak overlook

ON THE TRAIL AT ENCHANTED FOREST:

Take off from the base warming hut on Powderpuff, one of Enchanted Forest’s most popular trails. The gentle rising slope accesses trails to various viewpoints along the way followed by a gentle downhill decent back to the start; no wonder it is the area’s main corridor.

For more experienced skiers, the Northwest Passage and Long John trails are an incredible loop with breathtaking mountain vistas, heart quickening hills and long, gentle cruiser slopes for a fun 10k. Snowshoeing the Big Foot, Yeti Loop includes several great views of the area and snowshoers can see some things the skiers don’t such as old mining discovery pits, elk bedding areas, and huge old-growth Douglas fir. There is enough variety for days of exploring and the soothing surroundings bring skiers and snowshoers back again and again.

DIRECTIONS

From Taos, travel north 22 miles on State Road 522 to Questa. Turn east on State Road 38 and go 13 miles to Red River; head east (keep left at “Y”) on State Road 38 toward Eagle Nest. After 3 miles you will see a very large, brown sign that says, “Enchanted Forest Next Right.” Turn right 200 feet past sign, just past milepost 16, onto unpaved road. Go down the small hill and then up the larger hill. Follow signs up hill to the main parking lot (4WD/AWD Recommended).

Additional parking at the highway lot with an easy 300-yard walk to ski area, or call (575) 7546112 and the staff from Enchanted Forest will come pick you up.

Mountain Stats: Base elevation: 9,800 feet Lowest elevation: 9,600 feet Peak elevation: 10,078 Vertical drop: 400 feet Average snowfall: 240 inches Skiable area: 33 kilometers Trails: 5 percent expert 20 percent advanced 50 percent intermediate 25 percent beginner Season: Mid-November-Late March

2013-14 Trail Pass Rates Adults - $18 Seniors 13-17 - $15 Junior 12 and under - $9 Afternoon and multi-day rates also Enchanted Forest XC 29 Sangre de Cristo Drive, Red River enchantedforestxc.com Call 800-331-7669 for details on lodging in Red River Photo courtesy Enchanted Forest XC Enjoy a peaceful ride, in fresh tracks, at Enchanted Forest XC this season.

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Famous for its steeps, Taos Ski Valley has fun events too

taos ski valley T

aos Ski Valley is a world-renowned ski resort, with some of the steepest and most intimidating slopes you can find in North America.

But TSV is more than its reputation as a “tough mountain.” The Ski Valley, as locals refer to it, offers great instruction for skiers of all levels, and has terrain to match every skill set as well.

TSV also has a great schedule of events throughout the winter. Here’s a sampling of what visitors can expect this winter at Taos Ski Valley:

TORCHLIGHT PARADES TSV continues the age-old tradition of torchlight parades this winter, with Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve festivities, and the celebration of TSV founder Ernie Blake’s birthday. The first parade takes place on Christmas Eve at 6 p.m., as skiers make their way down the mountain to the base of lift #1 in the darkness with flares as their only means of light.

Then, on New Year’s Eve, another torchlight starts off the evening at 6 p.m., followed immediately by a live fireworks show. Holiday revelers 21-and-over can then count down the hours and minutes until 2014 at the Martini Tree Bar, beginning at 8 p.m.

And finally, a winter at TSV wouldn’t be complete without a celebration

of the man who started the whole thing. Blake’s birthday is traditionally celebrated with a torchlight, and this year at 7 p.m. on March 8 will be no different. Fireworks will also be on display to honor the memory of the famous founder of the Ski Valley.

BREAST CANCER AWARENESS DAY

The Second Annual K2 Bumps Challenge will take place beginning at 10 a.m. on Feb. 22. This challenging marathon down Taos Ski Valley’s mogul-ridden Al’s Run is a fundraiser for two organizations. Boarding for Breast Cancer (B4BC) is a nonprofit foundation whose mission is to increase awareness for breast cancer and the importance of early detection, as well as promotion of an active lifestyle. The second organization is the Anita Salas Memorial fund — a nonprofit organization that provides financial assistance for breast cancer services in New Mexico.

Skiers who raise the $100 minimum are invited to come race by themselves or in teams of two.

The Paint for Peaks Snowboard Art Auction will commence after the race in the Martini Tree Bar, with all proceeds benefiting B4BC and the Anita Salas Memorial Fund. Visit paintforpeaks.com for more information.

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SALOMON EXTREME FREERIDE CHAMPIONSHIPS

Taos Ski Valley is hosting the 2014 Salmon Extreme Championships, Feb. 27-March 1. This popular event is New Mexico’s largest big-mountain competition as skiers and snowboarders come face-to-face with Taos Ski Valley’s famed steeps. Although many make the descent, only one will come out with the $15,000 grand prize. Skiers can find more information at skitaos.org/freeride. Spectators can watch all the action from the slopes below, or catch some of the fun from the lifts in between runs. The event begins 10 a.m. each day.

BEN MYERS RIDGE-A-THON

The Ridge-A-Thon is an annual pledge-based fundraiser held at Taos Ski Valley, that supports the Emergency Medicines Fund of the Taos Community Foundation. The 17th annual Ridge-A-Thon will take place over two days, when athletes will attempt to make as many hikes and runs as possible off of TSV’s famous ridge. The Emergency Medicines Fund is designed to reimburse providers for the costs of health care expenses. Everyone is invited to pledge, race or just come and watch. The event takes place March 22 at 8 a.m. through March 23 at 6 p.m. For more information, go to taoscf.org.

BUD LIGHT POND SKIMMING CHAMPIONSHIPS “Competitors” will attempt to skim across an ice-cold, 80-foot pool during the Bud Light Pond Skimming championships, a rite-ofpassage that marks the last day of the ski season every year. The event will take place at the base of Strawberry Hill, from 2:30 to 5 p.m., on April 6. Participants can register at the TSV, Inc. administration offices, and there is a $20 entry fee for participants.

Taos Ski Valley

Kevin Rebholtz A skier catches some air coming off the ridge at Taos Ski Valley.

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Visit www.taosskivalley.com — the best online source for what’s happening in Taos Ski Valley.

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Ph. 800-517-9816 • www.taosskivalley.com • info@taosskivalley.com 138

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Celebrating 30 years in Taos Ski Valley

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www.taospropertyrentals.com ph. 877.557.9448 Skiing originated in Europe and was refined in world-famous resorts throughout the Alps. Our menu gives you a taste of classic dishes from those regions interpreted through the casual laid-back attitude for which Taos Ski Valley is known.

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Edelweiss Lodge & Spa 106 Sutton Place, Taos Ski Valley, NM 575-737-6900 Winter/Spring 2014 /// www.taosnews.com/visitors

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Courtesy of Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort Sipapu’s Magic Carpet is 90 feet long and located just a few steps from the main lodge.

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Resort undergoes lift upgrades to improve experience

By Stacey Glaser

sipapu S

ipapu Ski and Summer Resort will install a new lift for the upcoming 2013-2014 winter season, replacing the state’s oldest lift in order to offer a better experience for beginner skiers and snowboarders.

Sipapu’s newest lift is a 470-foot long “magic carpet” that glides along the surface of the snow.

It offers novice skiers and snowboarders an easier way to hone their skills before they progress to more advanced terrain. The new conveyor lift replaces Lift 2, which was renowned as New Mexico’s oldest lift.

Installed along the existing Lift 2 line and rising 100 vertical feet, the new magic carpet services two beginner trails and one lower intermediate trail; terrain that is used extensively by Sipapu’s ski school classes and beginner skiers and snowboarders.

“Sipapu prides itself on being a fun, accessible and affordable place to learn to ski or snowboard,” said Sipapu’s mountain manager, John Paul Bradley. “The magic carpet will enhance the learning experience at Sipapu.”

The new lift is not Sipapu’s first conveyor lift.

In 2010, Sipapu installed its first magic carpet lift, a 90-foot-long lift in the ski school teaching area. That lift was so well-received that resort management decided to upgrade Lift 2 with the same technology.

“The magic carpet is a very non-intimidating lift,” said Sue Leslie, Sipapu’s Snowsports School director. “It’s a tremendous teaching tool for novice skiers and snowboarders, because anyone can ride it. Plus, it’s fun to use!”

It is not without a touch of nostalgia that Sipapu bids farewell to its previous beginner lift, a circa 1961 Poma platter lift that was the oldest lift in New Mexico and one of the oldest Poma lifts in the country.

MOUNTAIN STATS:

Season dates: Nov. 16-April Average annual snowfall: 190 inches Average days of sunshine: 300+ Skiable acreage: 200 acres Number of trails: 41 named trails 20 percent beginner 40 percent intermediate 25 percent advanced 15 percent expert

“This [Poma platter lift] has been a reliable machine for Sipapu," said Bradley. “It has been the first lift to open and the last to close in New Mexico for more than a decade.”

NUMBER OF LIFTS: 5 TOTAL

Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort is resolute about attaining that distinction — being the first ski area to open in New Mexico. In fact, this season will mark the earliest opening date in the history of the resort: Nov. 16. This will be the eleventh consecutive season that Sipapu will earn the “first” accolade.

TERRAIN PARKS: 3

In addition to Sipapu’s newest lift, Sipapu is expanding its popular fourth-graders Ski Free program to include fifth-graders. Any fourth- or fifth-grader simply needs to present their current report card to verify their age, and they ski free any day of the season.

2 triple chair lifts 2 magic carpets 1 poma lift

Base elevation: 8,200 feet Peak elevation: 9,255 feet Vertical drop: 1,055 feet Snowmaking: Yes Information: sipapunm.com; (800) 587-2240 Early season lift tickets (available opening day through December 12) are $20 for adults (ages 21-59), and $15 for teens (ages 13-20), kids (ages 7-12) and seniors (ages 60-69). Kids ages six and younger, fourth-graders, fifth-graders and guests who are ages 40 or 60 or 70-and-older ski and snowboard free every day at Sipapu.

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Winter season changes aimed at improving experience for families

angel fire I

n an effort to “create the best Southern Rockies Family Friendy ski resort,” Angel Fire Resort has announced upcoming changes for the 2013-2014 season. These changes include the addition of new terrain as well as special winter discounts.

MORE SKIABLE ACREAGE

Angel fire will turn its popular biking trails into two half-mile winter trails. One of these trails will mimic the “Bombinable” trail and will offer various berms and jumps. The other trail is another one of the new glade areas, which have become commonplace at Angel Fire Resort. The resort is also in the midst of creating a nighttime terrain park for more daring skiers and snowboarders. The resort plans on hosting at least one United States of America Snowboard Association-sponsored event in the new park. Angel Fire also offers nighttime skiing from 4 to 8 p.m., as well as nighttime sledding on the “polar coaster,” a three-lane tubing hill that sends riders down 1,000 feet of groomed snow.

THE FAMILY FRIENDLIEST RESORT

Angel Fire has always been known as a family resort, but it is attempting to elevate that reputation even higher this winter season. The resort has added the “parenting pass,” allowing both parents to share one pass while taking turns teaching their children to ski or snowboard. Also, the “high five learn to ski and ride program,” which offers a free pass with the purchase of five lessons. Additionally the ski school continues its “3-ski” program,” offering lessons to especially ambitious three-year-olds who want to take on the mountain. The ski school has a new cook, offering better meal options for children attending lessons. Other family deals include: grandparents over 70 ski free, and the family winter pass, which offers discounted fees for skiing, as well as discounts on lodging and other amenities. The resort has also added a new daytime sledding hill as well as improvements to its cross-country skiing terrain.

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Courtesy Angel Fire Resort/Chris McLennan Photo Angel Fire is the only ski resort in New Mexico to feature night skiing.

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CONDO/HOUSE LODGING

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575-377-6651

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BIG EVENTS

The Angel Fire ski season spans from Dec. 13 to March 23 this season and the resort will host events throughout the winter. The first big event is the Christmas Eve torchlight parade and fireworks Dec. 24, and shortly after is the New Year’s Eve torchlight parade and fireworks show. Both of these events are free and sponsored by the village of Angel Fire.

The resort will celebrate visitors from the Lone Star State with the Big Ol’ Texas Weekend, Jan. 24-26. And the world-class shovel races will take place Feb. 7-8, as competitors will race down the slope via a standard snow shovel. Everyone is invited but only one will leave with the cash prize. For more information and ticket prices visit angelfireresort.com.

MOUNTAIN STATS:

Season dates: Dec. 13-March 23 Average annual snowfall: 210 inches Average days of sunshine: 300+ Number of trails: 77 26 percent beginner 50 percent intermediate 24 percent advanced Photo by Chris McClennan Angel Fire Resort touts its reputation as a world-class family resort.

Number of lifts: 7 total 2 quads / 3 doubles / 2 surface Base elevation: 8,600 feet Peak elevation: 10,677 feet Vertical drop: 2,077 feet Snowmaking: Yes 52 percent of mountain 90 percent of beginner terrain Nordic Center: 15km of terrain for classic and skate skiing and snowshoeing; 5 trails, 3 beginner and 2 advanced

INFORMATION:

3420 A Mountain View Blvd

ANGEL FIRE

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Call in Orders Welcome 575-377-3992

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Saturday Breakfast & Pastries 7am-11am

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Monday Thru Friday Breakfast Served from 7am-11am Lunch Served from 11am- 2pm

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angelfireresort.com; snow report line — (575) 377-4222

Restaurant &

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red river

Red River Ski Area adds new terrain Red River Ski Area has built a and increased reputation as a family friendly snowmaking ski area over the years, but that

doesn’t mean the resort is content, or averse to change.

Story continued on page 150

Photo courtesy Red River Ski Area For a certain type of skier, it's hard to beat a sunny day on the well-groomed runs at Red River.

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www.facebook.com/reservationsunlimited www.facebook.com/caribelcondos www.facebook.com/valleycondominiums

“Everything you expect in a Mountain Vacation!”

1-800-545-6415 · www.RedRiverReservations.com

VALLEY

CONDOMINIUMS

Fractional Ownership Available

312 W. Main Street • P.O. Box 593, Red River, NM 87558 • reserve@stayinredriver.com

Specializing in nightly rentals and vacation homes.

Everything from studios to 5 bedroom accomodations.

20 years of Vacation Rentals & Property Mgmt.

24 hour Online Booking Available.

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e

Th

MOTHERLODE SALOON

in Red River, NM

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100 W. Main St. • Red River, NM • 575-754-3028 www.jewelryladyredriver.com

STEAKHOUSE

A Red River tradition established in 1967 A REAL Steakhouse Hostess Hotline 575-754-2922

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red river Story continued from page 146

I

n fact, the 2013-14 winter season at Red River will be full of changes geared toward improving the overall ski and guest experiences.

The resort has improved snowmaking capabilities once again this year, with five new automated guns on the run Boom Town. This will ensure earlier opening of trails off of Boom Town, which is accessed

by Copper Chair.

Red River is also opening new terrain, with a glade area on the northwest side of Dropout. The glade features 2 acres for advanced skiers and snowboarders. This is the first time in more than 15 years that Red River Ski Area has added new terrain, and there are plans to add two more glade areas in the future (one intermediate and one expert). The resort has made these changes in an effort to provide more variety to skiers and boarders.

Speaking of variety, Red River never

Photo courtesy Red River Ski Area The snowcats work in conjunction with the snowmaking canons one early morning at Red River.

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forgets the freestyle crowd. This year, the resort is adding eight new features to its terrain parks.

Upgrades to trail signs (making them more prominent) and cosmetic upgrades to buildings and facilities are other ways that Red River is working to improve an already great ski area.

And don’t worry about any changes to the things that make Red River a popular winter destination. The attitude of the resort and the town is still laid back and friendly. And Red River still has one of the more appealing ski area layouts

MOUNTAIN STATS

Season dates: Nov. 27-March 23 Average annual snowfall: 214 inches Average days of sunshine: 300+ Number of trails: 57 32 percent beginner 38 percent intermediate 30 percent expert

in the country, with the town of Red River lying at its base and amazing lift access. Red River Ski Area and the town can also boast of a full-service experience for visitors, offering ski and snowboard lessons, rentals and lift tickets throughout town.

Opening day is Nov. 27 and Red River will feature a number of lift ticket deals and lodging specials throughout the season. Visit redriverskiarea.com for updates.

Number of lifts: 7 total 2 double chairs 3 triple chairs 2 surface tows Base elevation: 8,750 feet Top elevation: 10,350 feet Vertical drop: 1,600 feet Snowmaking: Yes, 85 percent of the mountain

Hours of operation: 9 a.m.-4 p.m. for chairlifts; 7:30 a.m.-5 p.m. for office and rentals.

24-hour ticket kiosks available at the base of the Platinum, Copper and Gold Chairlifts. redriverskiarea.com

ARCHITECTURAL STUD SON IO A M

Michael H. Mason, AIA www.masonarchitect.com 612 West Main St. 5A Red River, NM 87558 Located in Miner’s Mall

Phone: (575) 754-6360 Fax: (575) 754-6322 Email: jm2100@aol.com

Because we know you want to live here.

Find all the MLS real estate listings with one click www.taosnews.com Powered by Dreamcatcher Real Estate Company

Photo by Seth Bullington

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A village apart on the Enchanted Circle

questa Gak Stonn Wild horses near the Colorado state line, driving north from Questa.

Q

uesta is the northern gateway to the Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway but the village stands in contrast to the resort towns that comprise the other stops along the famous route.

A half-hour north of Taos in a rough and remote location, Questa was vulnerable to Ute raids for generations. And while Questa remains a remote destination, it also can serve as a getaway for full emersion into the natural beauty of New Mexico.

A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT

The heart of the new Río Grande del Norte National Monument, the Wild Rivers Recreation Area (blm.gov/nm) north of Questa is where the Red River joins the Río Grande in its deep and dramatic gorge. Because of the milder winters in the valley, relative to the nearby 13,000-foot peaks, hiking and fishing are year-round activities in the monument, as well as in other nearby attractions such as the Red River Fish Hatchery.

LEND A HAND

Questa's thick-walled adobe church has stood at the center of the community since the mid-1800s and gave the village its original name of San Antonio del Río Colorado. “Questa” was an Anglo attempt at simplification but became an official misspelling of the Spanish “cuesta,” referring to the ridge where the old church plaza was built. The church suffered a partial collapse in 2006, and is in the process of being restored adobe brick by adobe brick. If you’ve ever wanted to “mud” a wall, volunteers meet every Saturday morning, utilizing the same skills the town’s ancestors practiced so long ago.

38. The brainchild of Min Jae Hong and painter Kelly Morris, the space hosts working artists, rotating exhibitions, artists in residence, classes and workshops, films and talks, yoga, dances and music events. This is also the home of Barrie Andrew’s Sage Acutonics and Massage. Hours vary, call (575) 586-2049 for information.

SCENIC DRIVES

Questa sits at a hub of beautiful drives in all directions. To the west, on State Road 378 toward Cerro, is the paved loop road into the Río Grande del Norte National Monument. This leisurely excursion leads to various trailheads and dramatic views at the La Junta overlook of the Red River flowing into the Río Grande.

Colorado is only 45 minutes to the north, and there really are wild horses on Wild Horse Mesa (the informal name for the stretch of highway north of Costilla). The tiny, historic town of San Luis, Colo., over the border will at least offer an ice-cream cone as a welcome reward.

To the east is the famous Enchanted Circle route; a necklace of widelyvarying towns settled around the highest mountain peaks in New Mexico.

From Questa, you will wind east, to reach the wild-west shops and cafes of Red River, then continue through more open scenery to the historic mining town of Eagle Nest with its beautiful lake, and on to the resort town of Angel Fire with its ski area, zip line, and golf course. This circle drive returns to the west side of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains in Taos.

For a more straightforward drive to Taos, drive directly south from Questa, and enjoy the dramatic open scenery across the barely-visible river gorge.

THE ARTS

WINTER FUN

The isolated history of Questa helped create many self-taught craftsmen.

The community enjoys a long tradition of carving, weaving and painting, as evidenced at the Artesanos Cultural Center, which highlights the town's current artists. The center has limited hours due to the volunteer nature of its staffing, but is worth a visit. Currently open Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday afternoons.

When the snow arrives, the hiking trails around Questa become an adventure for cross-country skiers. The flatter trails at Wild Rivers do not hold the snow for long, but are stunning to play on when they do. Cabresto Canyon is at a higher elevation with more tree coverage.

The road is plowed only to the end of the residences; beyond that, snowmobiles can zip through glistening meadows.

Questa also features two galleries. Art Questa Studios and Gallery highlights the pottery of Sandra Harrington and the painting and jewelry of her husband, Roger Harrington. Call (575) 586-2436 for hours and information.

Those seeking quiet beauty can strap on snowshoes at the Columbine Canyon trailhead on State Road 38, 10 minutes east of Questa.

Ocho Gallery is located just across from the Visitors Center on State Road 152

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For more information, call the Questa Ranger District of the Carson National Forest, Monday-Friday, at (575) 586-0520. And the BLM Wild Rivers Visitors Center at (575) 586-1150.

Lumber & Co. QuestaQuesta Lumber &Hardware Hardware Co.

-Established 1953Look for our We moved & reopened at new have full service Hardware and our newstore expanded location at Lumber yard 2349 St. Hwy 522 (Next to Family Dollar) Opening Soon!

(575) 586-0414 Visit us for all your hard-toVisit us for all your hard-to-find find seasonal, contracting and home repair needs. We seasonal, contracting, and home repair have the experience to get needs.

We the experience to get the job done withhave our family of stores: Lumber the jobQuesta done with& our family of stores.

575-586-0414

575-586-0561

Personalized service is our 575-586-0419 number one priority!

Hardware Co., Northstar

Tire Center, CarQuesta, and Personalized is our number Questa Small Engineservice Works.

Personalized service is our one priority! number one priority!

575-586-1440

Have A Sports-Related Injury?

Questa Health Center Offers: — Family Medicine — • Sick & Well Child Care • CDL/Sports Physicals • Immunizations

• Lab Services • Pharmacy Services • Patient Education

— Behavioral Health — Dental Care — Call 505-586-0315 for an appointment!

(Walk-in’s also accepted)

2573 State Highway, Questa, NM 87556 www.pms-inc.org Payment options: Medicare, Medicaid, Salud, and private insurance. Sliding fee scale services for the uninsured.

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Take the plunge

eagle nest With its Old West facade and outdoor recreation galore, the village of Eagle Nest is more than meets the eye.

ART AND SHOPPING

Situated on the North shore of Eagle Nest Lake, the Main Street is less than a mile long, with shops carrying locally made arts and crafts, Native American jewelry, antiques and more.

Like most of Northern New Mexico, Eagle Nest has a high per-capita number of artists, including sculptors, painters, woodcarvers and painters (landscape, western, avant-garde, expressionism, etc.) The town also hosts museums like the Enchanted Circle Gateway Museum, studios and galleries like the Spirit Wind Gallery.

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES

A fisherman’s paradise from late spring through early fall, Eagle Nest Lake also freezes over most winters, offering a truly unique fishing experience.

Other winter activities in the Eagle Nest area include cross-country skiing and hiking, snowmobiling, snow-kiting, snowshoeing and mountain climbing.

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Steven Bundy Eagle Nest village in winter time.

GRAB A BITE

For a small village, Eagle Nest also has some great dining options, including Calamity Jane’s, Cowboy’s Corner, D&D Café, Eagle Nest Country Kitchen, Kaw-Lijah’s Restaurant, Laguna Vista Lodge Historic Restaurant and Saloon, Lucky Shoe Bar & Grill and Outpost Pizzeria.

And if you’re looking to wash it down with some micro-brew, Eagle Nest is the home of Comanche Creek Brewing Co. (comanchecreekbrewingco. com), which has been offering its take on several traditional beer styles for a few years now.

2013 EAGLE NEST EVENTS AND ACTIVITIES

Polar Bear Plunge — Jan. 1, at Eagle Nest Lake State Park – Registration begins at 9 a.m. and the main attraction, the plunge itself, begins 11 a.m. There is no fee, but signed waivers and lake shoes are required. You are jumping into a frozen lake after all. For more information, call (575) 377-2420 or email info@eaglenestchamber. com Ice Fishing Tournament — Feb. 9, at Eagle Nest Lake. It may be cold, but think about fresh-caught trout, salmon, and perch, in addition to prizes. Call the Chamber of Commerce for information, (575) 377-2420 Mardi Gras Celebration — Fat Tuesday, Feb. 12. Parade, floats, and Cajun food. (575) 377-2420

VILLAGE STATS

Average Summer Temperature: 76 Average Winter Temperature: 45 Annual Snowfall: 138” Average Sunny Days: 300 Elevation: 8,200’

FREE WIFI, CONTINENTAL BREAKFAST, COMMUNITY KITCHEN Under New Management • Greg & Sherry Bull (575)377-6813 715 Hwy 64 E • Eagle Nest, NM 87718 www.choicehotels.com

EAGLE NEST A L P I N E PA R A D I S E

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GETTING HERE

Red River

Questa Tres Piedras

Arroyo Hondo

TAOS

DRIVING DIRECTIONS

Taos Ski Valley

Eagle Nest

Arroyo Seco Taos Pueblo Angel Fire

Ranchos de Taos

◗ FROM ALBUQUERQUE: I-25 north to Santa Fe; exit on N.M. 599 North to bypass Santa Fe; U.S. 285 to N.M. 68 to Taos.

Ojo Caliente

◗ FROM ARIZONA: I-40 to Albuquerque, I-25 to Santa Fe; U.S. 285

to N.M. 68 to Taos.

Pilar Main Route to Taos

Picuris Pueblo Peñasco

Velarde

◗ FROM DENVER: I-25 south to Walsenburg; U.S. 160 to Fort

Garland; Colo. 159 and N.M. 522 to Taos.

◗ FROM VAIL: I-70 to Copper Mountain; Colo. 91 to Leadville; U.S.

Chimayó

High Road to Taos Mora

Española

24 to Johnson Village; U.S. 285 to Tres Piedras; U.S. 64 to Taos.

Los Alamos

◗ FROM PURGATORY AND DURANGO: U.S. 160 to Alamosa; U.S. 285

to Tres Piedras; U.S. 64 to Taos.

Pojoaque

◗ FROM WEST TEXAS: I-40 to Clines Corner; U.S. 285 to Interstate 25 to Santa Fe; U.S. 285 to N.M. 68 to Taos.

0

5

10

15

20

M I L E S

SANTA FE Las Vegas Cheyenne

Salt Lake City Denver

Vail Breckenridge

Copper Mountain Leadville

Scipio Salina

Crested Butte

Grand Junction

Johnson Village Maysville

Gunnison

Montrose

AIRPORT SHUTTLES (TO ALBUQUERQUE) ◗ TWIN HEARTS EXPRESS AND SHUTTLE CO.: 575-751-1201 or 800-654-9456

Colorado Springs

CAR RENTAL COMPANIES ◗ AVIS RENT-A-CAR: Albuquerque Airport, 505842-4080 or 800-331-1212; avis.com ◗ ENTERPRISE: 1350 Paseo del

Pueblo

Telluride Purgatory Cortez

Durango

Monte Vista Alamosa

Walsenburg Fort Garland

Chama Farmington

Raton

Tres Piedras

Pueblo Sur, 575-758-5553; enterprise.com ◗ HERTZ: Taos Muncipal Airport, 575-751-3119; hertz.com

TAOS Española

Santa Fe Flagstaff

Las Vegas Clines Corner

Albuquerque

Amarillo

Santa Rosa

(TO OKLAHOMA CITY)

DRIVING DISTANCES/ APPROXIMATE TIMES TO TAOS

Clovis

Lubbock Phoenix

Roswell

Tucson

Las Cruces

El Paso (TO AUSTIN & DALLAS) MEXICO

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LOCAL TRANSPORTATION ◗ TAOS EXPRESS: Shuttle to Santa Fe, 575-751-4459 ◗ CHILE LINE: Town public transportation, 575-751-4459; taosgov.com ◗ FAUST CHARTER AND LIMO SERVICE: 575-758-3410 ◗ NORTH CENTRAL REGIONAL TRANSIT DISTRICT: Northern New Mexico public transportation, 1-866-206-0754 or www.ncrtd.org

ALBUQUERQUE AMARILLO AUSTIN BRECKENRIDGE COLORADO SPRINGS CRESTED BUTTE DALLAS DENVER DURANGO

M iles H o u rs

135 302 764 263 230 271 682 300 208

2 1⁄2 4 1⁄2 12 4 3 3⁄4 4 1⁄4 10 1⁄2 4 1⁄2 3 1⁄4

EL PASO OKLAHOMA CITY PHOENIX PURGATORY SANTA FE TELLURIDE TUCSON VAIL

M iles H o u rs

400 558 568 233 72 324 569 276

6 8 1⁄4 8 1⁄2 3 3⁄4 1 1⁄4 5 8 1⁄2 4 1⁄2

Santa Fe Trail Landmark!

Welcoming guests since 1872!

Express St. James Hotel Cimarron, NM Santa Fe Trail Landmark!

Welcoming guests since 1872

888‐376‐2664 or 575‐376‐2664 exstjames.com or facebook.com/EXStJames

888‐376‐2664 or 575‐376‐2664 exstjames.com or facebook.com/EXStJames

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Great Care

MEDICAL GROUP

Everywhere You Need Us Breast Institute 490 A West Zia Rd., Suite 200 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 913-3101

Geriatrics & Internal Medicine 465 St. Michael’s Dr., Suite 116 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 913-4260

Health Specialists – Los Alamos 2237 Trinity Dr., Unit B Los Alamos, NM 87544 (505) 662-8870

Health Specialists – Taos 1213 Gusdorf Road Taos, NM 87571 (505) 988-3233

Neurosurgical Associates 465 St. Michael’s Dr., Suite 107 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 988-3233

Orthopaedics & Sports Medicine Associates Physicians Plaza of Santa Fe 1631 Hospital Dr., Suite 200 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 424-0200

Orthopaedics of New Mexico 2100 Calle de la Vuelta, Ste. D-103 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 982-5014

Physical Medicine & Rehabilitation Specialists 440 St. Michael’s Dr., Suite 250 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 983-2233

Pulmonary & Critical Care Associates

Regional Cancer Center 490 A West Zia Rd. Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 913-8900

Surgical Associates Physicians Plaza of Santa Fe 1631 Hospital Dr., Suite 240 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 913-3975

Urology Associates 1630 Hospital Dr., Suite D Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 982-3534

Women’s Care Specialists 465 St. Michael’s Dr., Suite 117 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 984-0303

465 St. Michael’s Dr., Suite 209 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 984-2600

Invested in YOU.

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The best utility company in the nation is right here in Taos On October 22, 2013, Kit Carson Electric Cooperative proudly accepted the Utility of the Year award by the Solar Electric Power Association

Founded in 1937, Kit Carson Electric is New Mexico's oldest electric cooperative 176

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Our people make the difference

YOUR LOCAL KIT CARSON ELECTRIC COOPERATIVE HAS THE SOLUTIONS Since the 1930s, Kit Carson has been there for you when big utility companies were not. We’re excited to bring High Speed Fiber Optic communications to our communities and continue to serve our neighbors.

Kit Cars

ctric Coop e l e E

e, Inc. tiv ra

With 837 rural utility companies in the United States, only one was voted the very best.

on

With over 125 employees, we are proud to be one the largest employers in Taos and Northern New Mexico. The employees at Kit Carson are your friends, family and neighbors.

Your Touchstone Energy® Partners The power of human connections®

Electric E L E C T RCommunications I C T E L E C O M I N T EPropane RNET

Owned by those we serve!

575.758.2258 • 1.800.688.6780 118 Cruz Alta Rd., Taos Winter/Spring 2014 /// www.taosnews.com/visitors

177

Committed to renewable energy opportunities for Taos and Northern New Mexico.

PROUD TO BE VOTED THE VERY BEST

management of Kit Carson Co-op,” said Mr. Reyes. “We continue to aggressively pursue adding to our solar portfolio, because our members want more solar and because it is the right thing to do.”

“The Utility of the Year award is a great honor and is a testament to the foresight and hard work of the Board of Trustees, the staff and the

www.kitcarson.com.

on

KCEC was selected from among 11 nationwide nominees. For more information about SEPA go to www.solarelectricpower.org .

More information on Kit Carson Electric Cooperative go to

E le

ctric Coop

e

e, Inc. tiv ra

The award is presented in recognition of the establishment of new solar projects, including

the KCEC Community Solar Initiative, and for the integration of solar power beyond what is supplied by Tri-State Generation and Transmission, KCEC’s wholesale power supplier. In 2012 KCEC was instrumental in the activation of the 1.25 MW Amalia I Solar Array, the 1.25 MW Blue Sky Energy Array near the Rio Grande Gorge and the 98 kW Community Solar Array near Taos Charter School.

Kit Cars

Kit Carson Electric Cooperative CEO Luis Reyes accepted the prestigious Utility of the Year Award from the Solar Electric Power Association (SEPA) at a ceremony at the Solar Power International Conference at Chicago’s McCormick Place on October 22, 2013. The award was presented at the membership luncheon with about 200 SEPA members in attendance. The Solar Power International Conference had approximately 15,000 attendees.

Your Touchstone Energy® Partners The power of human connections®

Electric E L E C T RCommunications I C T E L E C O M I N T EPropane RNET

Owned by those we serve!

575.758.2258 • 1.800.688.6780 118 Cruz Alta Rd., Taos

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