Ultimate Experiences January 2019

POINT OF VIEW

Cause & Effect It’s often said travel transforms. As we celebrate the beginning of 2019, this edition of Ultimate Experiences is devoted to positive impact travel—vacations that inspire change, support far-flung communities, and perhaps of top note, change our perspective.

Within these pages you’ll find stories that capture the soul of a destination, like how the British Virgin Islands are recovering post hurricane with exciting new hotel and resort openings and renovations. We’ll take you to Africa and showcase how a library funded by visitors is raising the local literacy rate. And we also celebrate cruising for a cause, with a behind-the-scenes view of impactful voluntourism efforts.

As your dedicated travel advisor, we are passionate about positively impacting global communities. When we vacation with an intention of paying it forward, the world becomes more connected. In turn, we become more connected to the world.

Our hope is that these pages inspire you to imagine that next trip as not only a hard-earned luxury escape, but as a potential platform for positive change. Often our most cherished travel memories are not just of new destinations we discover, but of the intriguing people and cultures we meet along the way.

HAPPY JOURNEYING,

ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES

Š 2019 Cunard.

Ships’ Registry: Bermuda.

See the world differently.

Contact your professional Travel Advisor now for expert advice and great value.

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EYE CANDY

IN PEAK PURSUIT GOODBYE, WINTER BLUES. HELLO, CHAMONIX.

Is your screen saver set to a steep-and-deep ski descent? Well then, it’s

time to experience the real deal. If looking for that incredibly satisfying winter travel cocktail of luxury and adventure, Chamonix is just the ticket. With one of Luxury Retreat’s posh villas as your basecamp (the five-bedroom Chalet Dalmore is a stunner), ski the Vallée Blanche for serious French Alps bragging rights. The 12.5-mile long off-piste pursuit has a rollicking 8,858-foot descent, and feels as if you’re skiing on top of the world. First, take a cable car to the top of Mont Blanc—the highest mountain in the Alps at 15,781 feet—and then ski backcountry powder until your legs scream for reprieve. Next up, arrive at Terminal Neige—a high altitude restaurant at the Mer de Glace glacier in Chamonix—where you’ll soak up the sun while drinking rosé and refueling with oysters and escargot. Then toast friends or family with, “Does it get any better?”

CONTENTS ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES January 2019

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F E A T U R E S

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Discovering Italy’s unspoiled south reveals a land rich in culinary treasures and a laid-back vibe.

Editor at Large Ignacio Maza discovers the ethereal landscapes of Iceland and the magnetic nature of Reykjavík.

The British Virgin Islands are coming back from a year of post-hurricane recovery—and now is the time to visit.

BY JEN MURPHY

BY IGNACIO MAZA

BY CLARA WOODBRIDGE

LA DOLCE VITA

FIRE & ICE

RISING UP

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ON THE COVER Borgo Egnazia hotel in Puglia, Italy.

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CONTENTS

Wow Factor 10 THE SUITE LIFE

Plan to stay in a suite or villa for two or more nights, and exclusive access awaits.

14 ROOM KEY

Hilton Mo’orea Lagoon Resort & Spa, Tortuga Bay Punta Cana Resort & Club, plus Nizuc Resort + Spa Cancun.

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16 CRUISE GPS

Silversea’s Northern Europe and British Isles Expedition Cruise celebrates delicious ports of call; Regent Seven Seas Cruises® helps rebuild the Caribbean.

24 GAME CHANGER

Ambassador for The TreadRight Foundation, Céline Cousteau is helping protect people and wildlife around the globe.

28 BESPOKE 40 42

Cape Town, Okavango Delta, and Selinda Reserve? Yes, please!; Plus, multi-generational escapes and unique retreats.

Go Now 36 DESTINATION GPS

Venture with Oceania to the romanticized island of Cuba; Mark Ellwood reveals Japan’s top temples, hidden eateries, and finest sakes.

42 POINT OF VIEW

Seabourn’s partnership with UNESCO ensures a prescient vision of cultural relevance.

44 OFF THE GRID

Come face to face with mountain gorillas in Rwanda and Uganda.

46 WANDER WELL

Forty years later, Canyon Ranch is still making history.

48 HAVE MISSION, WILL TRAVEL

Micato’s AmericaShare program is proof that travel can truly transform; Experience Crystal Cruises and learn how to give back.

32 LIVE LIKE A LOCAL

Celebrity chef and Melbourne native Curtis Stone reveals his favorite restaurants, unforgettable vineyards, and top food festivals in Victoria and South Australia.

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THE RESOURCE

Where to go and stay, plus just what to experience.

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BEYOND

Travel, Elevated: Cruises, Vacations, Hotels & Resorts.

2 EYE CANDY 6 EDITOR’S LETTER 7

96 POSTCARD FROM…

Iceland, with ION Hotels Founder Sigurlaug Sverrisdóttir.

CONTRIBUTORS

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EDITOR’S LETTER

Pura Vida As I write this, I’m 35,000 feet in the air, somewhere over the Pacific, en route home from Costa Rica. I’ve just celebrated a friend’s milestone birthday with a group of 25, which included my younger brother and 9-year-old son.

The anticipation of the journey was a mix of excitement and concern. Two weeks prior to our departure, the Guanacaste region had experienced its worst flood in 50 years. Locals in the town of Nosara were evacuated and many families lost everything. The community rallied, and significant funds were raised in just a week. But as our travel dates drew near, group chats turned to worry about safety and road conditions. In the end, all was deemed okay, and we decided the best way to help the community was quite simple: go. As I fly home, the smiles of my brother and son as we shared a “party” surf wave playfully dances in my memory.

With this issue, we celebrate the power of travel—how journeying to far-flung corners of the earth can support local communities, be it through volunteerism shore excursions, supporting wildlife programs, or by visiting local schools and orphanages. When asked to recall

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ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES January 2019

highlights from a dream vacation, most travelers recount stories of locals met while discovering a new destination—the instructors, concierges, private guides, chefs, and business owners who open an authentic window into daily life. Travel is an important catalyst to social change.

My hope is that these pages inspire a trip like I encountered in Costa Rica, where—with family and close friends— we surfed, dined, danced, and sunbathed. We celebrated each other, an enchanting destination, and a resilient local community.

The best trips are those that leave you dreaming of a return, prior to even boarding the flight home. At Liberia International Airport, when my son sighed about our Costa Rica experience coming to an end, I reminded him what a wise older surfer once told me: You can’t come back if you don’t leave.

Enjoy the issue!

ERIN LENTZ, EDITOR IN CHIEF

CONTRIBUTORS EDITORIAL EDITOR IN CHIEF Erin Lentz CREATIVE DIRECTOR Karrie Sims EDITOR AT LARGE Ignacio Maza PHOTO EDITOR Stefanie Michejda COPY EDITOR Sarah Taylor Asquith

CONTRIBUTORS Amiee White Beazley, Meredith Diers, Mark Ellwood, Jimmy Im, Ignacio Maza, Stefanie Michejda, Jen Murphy, Avery Stonich, Clara Woodbridge

2018 TAG Custom Publishing LLC. Ultimate Experiences Magazine is published four times a year on behalf of Signature Travel Network. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part of any material in this publication without publisher’s permission is strictly prohibited. For copies, customer service, or to exhibit or distribute at a business, please inquire at info@tagmedia.com.

TAG MEDIA 418 East Cooper St. Suite 207B Aspen, CO 81611

Signature Travel Network is comprised of top-tier travel agencies that share one common objective: serve the personal needs of the discerning traveler. The network’s buying power translates into the ability to leverage worldwide partnerships to provide you the best value and ensure the best service before and during your travels.

This brochure has been produced for the exclusive use of Signature Travel Network member agencies only. All efforts have been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained herein. Should an error occur, we reserve the right to correct it. Print Date: December 2018.

Mark Ellwood

Ignacio Maza

Avery Stonich

WRITER

EDITOR AT LARGE

WRITER

The Intrepid Traveler p. 40

Fire & Ice p. 68

The Ripple Effect p. 24

Mark has lived out of a suitcase for most of his adult life. He writes for the Wall Street Journal, Bloomberg, and Condé Nast Traveler, where he is a contributing editor. He’s interviewed the world’s oldest supermodel, trekked to a $10 billion art island in rural Japan and spent a weekend in an all-psychic town. Mark is the author of Bargain Fever: How to Shop in a Discounted World, which explores our culture’s snowballing obsession with deals and discounts, from Prada to Primark.

Ignacio is Signature Travel Network’s Executive VicePresident, responsible for the network’s luxury business development.

He’s visited over 100 countries on seven continents, and has worked in the travel industry for more than 40 years. His articles and insights have appeared in The New York Times, AFAR, Luxury Travel Advisor, ASTA Advisor, and more.

Avery is an awardwinning writer who has traveled to nearly 60 countries in search of adventure. She has studied monkeys in Tanzania, slept in a yurt while backcountry skiing in Kyrgyzstan, and trekked the Via Dinarica Trail in Eastern Europe. Her work has been published by National Geographic Adventure, National Geographic Traveler, Outside, Fodor’s, and more.

ALWAYS IN MY SUITCASE: Ziploc bags for emergencies, a power strip so I can plug all my electronics together, and granola bars.

TOP KYOTO FIND: One of the best restaurants in town, Omen, has slurpworthy noodles. It has a sister spot located half a mile from my apartment in Manhattan.

2019 DREAM TRIP: I am looking forward to my first visit to New Zealand’s South Island this spring. I can’t wait to see Milford Sound, Kaikoura, and Queenstown.

I’D MOST LIKE TO WITNESS: The rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, Ethiopia.

RECENT RESTAURANT FIND: Álbora Restaurant in Madrid (Calle de Jorge Juan, 33). Don’t miss the Joselito cured hams and the bread pudding.

RECENT FOOD FIND: White Rabbit in Moscow, where Chef Vladimir Mukhin spins traditional Russian food into modern miracles.

Moose lips, anyone?

DREAM INTERVIEW: Jane Goodall BUCKET-LIST TRIP: To see all of the great apes, which will take me to Borneo, Tanzania, Uganda, and the Congo.

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CALM, COOL CONNECTED Welcome to The Berkeley.

Modern luxury in the heart of London.

For reservations or more information please contact your travel advisor.

ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES

wow factor

January 2019

THE SUITE LIFE

Indonesia, Caribbean, U.S. Europe + New Zealand Page 10

GAME CHANGER

Céline Cousteau Page 24

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL

Chef Curtis Stone Page 32

THE SUITE LIFE . ROOM KEY . CRUISE GPS . GAME CHANGER . BESPOKE . LIVE LIKE A LOCAL

>

Above: A floating market in Thailand.

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THE SUITE LIFE

Stay a While ‌ Plan to stay in a suite or villa for two or more nights, and exclusive access awaits.

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Enjoy indelible stays, with residence-like accommodations, intuitive service, and insider access at more than 500 participating global properties with Exclusive Suite Privileges worth up to $500 per stay. Couple this with the Hotels & Resorts Collection's exclusive amenities, which includes daily breakfast, complimentary WiFi and an additional valuable benefit (as well as early check-in and late check-out whenever possible), and you're guaranteed to maximize fun and minimize stress.

Clockwise from top: Alila Villas in Bali's Uluwatu; Sandy Lane on St. James; The James New York – NoMad; Kinloch Manor & Villas; Andaz Amsterdam Prinsengracht.

THE SUITE LIFE

Indonesia

ALILA VILLAS ULUWATU (Bali)

Poised on an elevated plateau with limestone cliffs that cascade to the ocean, Alila Villas Uluwatu hugs the southern coastline of Bali on the Bukit Peninsula and is just 30 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport.

Spa Alila is reason enough to visit, with a hammam and traditional Balinese treatments.

Clockwise from top: Alila Villas' threebedroom residences are replete with private pools; outdoor-indoor living at Alila Villas; Sandy Lane's horseshoe beach; The Spa at Sandy Lane frames ocean views.

Caribbean

SANDY LANE (St. James, Barbados)

Overlooking the Caribbean Sea, this is the premier St. James address. Whether on a luxury romantic retreat or traveling with the family, there’s plenty of pool and beach time. After getting sun-kissed, check out the three golf courses, including a resort-style 18-hole Tom Fazio-designed course, or try a customized treatment at The Spa at Sandy Lane.

SUITE TALK: Positioned on its own secluded site within the resort grounds, The Cliff features an elite collection of one- and two-bedroom suites.

Amenities include a private reception and concierge, locally inspired restaurants, a wedding courtyard, infinity lagoon pool, and the signature Cliff Bar. Villa owners have unrestricted access to all the main resort facilities while enjoying the privacy of a stylish selfcontained enclave.

NOT TO MISS: The property is just a 15-minute drive from the Uluwatu Temple—one

SUITE TALK: The classic elegance of the Palladianstyle buildings offer an exceptional level of Barbadian hospitality.

Rooms, suites, and the villa all feature expansive balconies and spacious rooms. With a team of dedicated staff, The Villa at Sandy Lane is the ultimate splurge. The five-room Villa’s exclusive entrance includes a private garden, pool, and Jacuzzi.

NOT TO MISS: The Monkey Bar is a unique atmosphere for evening cocktails, with monkeythemed murals and charming artifacts throughout the bar. And if bringing the kids, The Treehouse Club fosters child interaction with other young travelers and features daily programming of inspired activities.

of six key temples believed to be Bali's spiritual pillars.

Perched atop of a 70-foot cliff, witnessing the Balinese architecture is a sacred experience.

Full breakfast for each guest daily at Cire, $100 food and beverage credit (per room, per stay). Beach bag and hats, early check-in, and late check-out (subject to availability). $100 spa credit, once per stay (minimum two-night stay in select categories).

60-minute massage and one round of golf on the Country Club course (per room, per stay), upgrade, early check-in, and late check-out (subject to availability). $100 food and beverage credit, once per stay (minimum two-night stay in select categories).

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THE SUITE LIFE

Left: The James New York - Nomad King Suite living room.

Below: Happy hour at The James Nomad.

United States

THE JAMES NEW YORK – NOMAD (New York, NY)

Nestled in the NoMad area, find your oasis and ultimate balance whether your mood calls for meditation or a martini. Designed

by Thomas Juul-Hansen, The James New York – NoMad reflects modern luxury with soul.

SUITE TALK: The 1050-foot Penthouse Suite features separate living and sleeping areas. An uber-luxe bathroom is finished with a marble vanity with his and her sinks, soaking tub, and rain shower, while the apartment-like suite is also tricked out with high-tech touches.

NOT TO MISS: Need some head space in hectic Manhattan?

Maintain your gains while on the road with Hero Flow yoga classes every Sunday, guided meditations curated by Inscape, or boxing every Wednesday in collaboration with a local NYC studio. All guests have access to on-demand Four Bodies Wellness programming which highlights a roledex of mind, body ambassadors. Additionally, the property is just steps from Madison Square Park, Herald Square, and the Empire State Building.

Continental breakfast for each guest daily at Scarpetta, $50 food and beverage credit (per room, per stay), upgrade, early check-in, and late check-out (subject to availability).

One-way airport transfer (minimum two-night stay in select categories).

Europe

ANDAZ AMSTERDAM PRINSENGRACHT (Amsterdam, The Netherlands)

Designed by world-renowned designer Marcel Wanders, this 122-room luxury-lifestyle hotel sits in Amsterdam’s charming canal ring—an ideal base to discover Amsterdam’s most visited sites. Explore the hotel’s Alice in Wonderland-inspired Dutch design, including the largest video art collection in Europe. And don't miss craft cocktails championing sustainable bartending at the award-winning Bluespoon Bar.

Above: The Andaz Amsterdam Prinsengracht lobby channels Alice in Wonderland inspiration. Right: The property's suites are inspired by the creativity of Amsterdam.

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SUITE TALK: All rooms and five signature suites feature views over the Prinsengracht canal, the hotel’s secret garden, or the observatorium-themed atrium. Inspired by the creativity of the city, the quirky yet sophisticated design by Wanders exudes luxury and comfort. The penthouse Prinsengracht Suite claims Amsterdam’s largest hotel terrace overlooking the charming canals and begs for private chef dinners.

NOT TO MISS: Discover the stylish boutiques of the Nine Streets a few steps away, or walk a few blocks north to the Anne Frank House, where the Jewish diarist hid from the Nazis during World War II. During a short stroll south of the hotel at the Van Gogh Museum in the museum district, take in more than 200 Van Gogh paintings, including “Self Portrait,” “Sunflowers,” and “The Bedroom.”

Full Breakfast for two daily at Restaurant Bluespoon, $100 hotel credit (per room, per stay), two tickets to the Rijksmuseum, personalized welcome amenity and VIP status, upgrade, early checkin and late check-out (subject to availability).

One-way airport transfer (minimum two-night stay in select categories).

THE SUITE LIFE

From top: The Executive Room at The Lodge at the Kinloch Club; the Kinloch Club course, located on the shores of Lake Taupo.

New Zealand

KINLOCH MANOR & VILLAS (Taupo, Waikato, New Zealand)

Set above the shores of Lake Taupo, Kinloch Manor & Villas is New Zealand's newest luxury lodge and resort, opened in 2016. Outdoor adventure includes New Zealand’s most popular day hike, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, while fly-fishing, white-water rafting, and lakeside cycling tracks are also easily accessed. A whiskey and champagne bar overlooks the golf course and Lake Taupo, and two restaurants serve “estate-to-plate” fare—organic produce from the owner’s private estate.

SUITE LIFE: All one- and two-bedroom villas have fireplaces, outdoor balconies, and incredible views of Lake Taupo. Perfect for al fresco entertaining, they also feature a full gourmet kitchen and private courtyard. Interiors are finished with beautiful oak floors, a carbon-neutral fireplace, handmade New Zealand rugs, and stand-alone bathtubs.

NOT TO MISS: If a golfer, the Kinloch Club golf course is New Zealand’s only Jack Nicklaus-designed course and the practice facilities— which include a putting green, grass tee driving range, and chipping green with bunkers—are designed to replicate exact conditions.

60-minute relaxing massage for two (per room, per stay), fruit bowl and a pot of estate honey on arrival, upgrade, early check-in and late checkout (subject to availability).

Lunch or dinner for two, once per stay (minimum two-night stay in select categories).

Suite Style Learn more about our exclusive privileges and preferred suite and villa partners by entering OFFER M18720 to the website found on the back cover.

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ROOM KEY

Posh Polynesia With the Hilton Mo’orea Lagoon Resort & Spa as your basecamp, explore an island with a playful personality and rich history.

From left: A Hilton Mo’orea Lagoon Resort & Spa overwater bungalow; the property's gorgeous shallow lagoon is a favorite among stand-up paddleboarders.

HILTON MO’OREA LAGOON RESORT & SPA (Mo’orea, French Polynesia) It took me more than 40 years to see the green flash— that elusive, highly anticipated dash of sunset light over the ocean’s horizon. As a Florida native who’s seen many brilliant sun salutations, I had to travel to a tiny “motu,” or island, in French Polynesia to finally witness the phenomenon. It was well worth the flight, as the green flash was celebrated with hugs from strangers, champagne, and Polynesian fire dancing.

On Mo’orea, mother nature feels amplified. When paddle-boarding at dawn from my overwater bungalow’s private dock at the Hilton Mo’orea Lagoon Resort & Spa, the water is clearer than anything I’ve witnessed.

As I glide over gorgeous turquoise coral reefs, colorful tropical fish playfully dart back and forth beneath me.

Later that afternoon, after refueling with local mahi mahi at the resort’s beachside Rotui Grill & Bar, our small group takes a jet ski tour to shark alley, where small (and harmless) black tip reef sharks and manta rays swim right beneath our feet. We then take the jet skis out to a growing surf swell—again, nature on steroids, it seems, as massive waves of whitewater dance along the outer reef.

The following day, a private boat tour to a another motu makes any traveler feel like a pampered castaway. Local guides grill fresh-from-the-sea tuna and serve mouthwatering ceviche and mojitos at a table placed smack dab in the ocean. We declare this stretch of paradise the best lunch spot on the globe.

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All of these only-in-Mo’orea experiences are easily accessed from the Hilton Mo’orea. Nestled between two bays on the heart-shaped island and set against a Jurassic Parkesque mountain backdrop, the resort's white sandy beach begs for sunbathing or water sports, and the calm lagoon is a coveted snorkeling spot. Dine at Arii Vahine Restaurant by the lagoon, while the resort’s overwater Toatea Crêperie & Bar (the only overwater bar in Mo’orea) is a must for sunset cocktails and crêpes. Nicknamed “yellow lizard” by locals, the island is also home to the tasty Le Lézard Jaune Café, a 20-minute drive from the resort.

On our final morning (sigh) we unwind at the Mo’orea Lagoon Spa (when staying at Hilton Mo’orea, receive an XFP7000 spa credit, per room, per stay). My deep-tissue massage features local Monoi oil. I leave in a blissful state, with braids in my hair and the scent of the island on my skin.

I thank our concierge—who has helped arrange a seamless trip—and tell her I can’t wait to return. –Erin Lentz

ROOM KEY

Enviro-Chic

TORTUGA BAY PUNTA CANA RESORT & CLUB (Punta Cana, Dominican Republic) As a trailblazer in the Dominican Republic for sustainable development, this resort is proof of positive impact travel.

Here, luxury meets innovation and out-ofthe-box environmental initiatives. Launched in 1994, the resort’s not-forprofit Fundación Grupo Puntacana develops solutions to complex environmental and social challenges. Additionally, sustainable agriculture initiatives help produce fresh, organic produce and high quality soils for landscaping. So when From top: The beach at Tortuga Bay Punta Cana Resort & Club beach; room with a view at Mexico's NIZUC Resort + Spa.

staying at one of the property’s Oscar de La Renta-designed Tortuga Bay Villas—with views of the crystal-clear blue Caribbean—your visit helps leverage this important sustainable goal.

Tortuga Bay redefines the luxury hotel experience with renovations by Markham Roberts.

Thirteen villas feature an updated design and new technology in every suite.

The hotel has incorporated a renewed aesthetic at the Bamboo restaurant and features a 600-bottle wine cellar. Exclusive amenities include a 30-minute Six Senses signature massage (per adult, per stay), and a $50 food and beverage credit (per room, per stay) at Bamboo Restaurant.

Travel on a Whim Why not book a last-minute escape? Visit the website on the back cover and enter OFFER M18719.

Design Star

NIZUC RESORT + SPA (Punta Nizuc, Mexico) Nestled along an exclusive enclave in the Riviera Maya, NIZUC’s architecture and design is as notable as the ocean views and protected mangroves of Punta Nizuc, considered the newest luxury destination in the Mexican Caribbean. Inspired by the Mayan culture, 274 suites and private villas grace a 29-acre property. Expect private pools, spacious terraces, lush tropical gardens, and free-standing soaking tubs. Of top note is NIZUC Spa by ESPA (receive a $75 spa credit, per room, once per stay). Not-to-miss treatments include the Mayan Cacao Body Treatment. Used by the Mayan civilization for its mood-enhancing and restorative properties, cacao was the food of the gods.

This muscle-melting massage uses pure cacao oil and is inspired by local culture.

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CRUISE GPS

FARE GROUND Silversea’s Northern Europe and British Isles Expedition Cruise celebrates delicious ports of call. BY A M I E E W H I T E B E A Z L E Y

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CRUISE GPS

Opposite: Special ingredients culled in each port are used in onboard dishes. From left: Culinary excursions designed for each port of call take guests straight to the action, like this white asparagus producer in France; Chef Bilsland spends time at each port in search of special cheeses to bring aboard.

FOOD, says Silversea Cruises’ Culinary

Trainer Chef David Bilsland, connects us all.

Food represents life, culture, and the routine of local, daily life. And while it also tells stories of history and landmarks, most importantly, food “shows the soul of the place, and its place in the heart of its people,” he says.

As such, it’s no surprise that Europe lands among his favorite destinations in to which to sail, eat, and explore. After all, Europe is Silversea Cruises and Chef Bilsland’s home.

Silversea’s heritage is rooted in Italian traditions.

Providing access to the tastes of old and new Europe is what Silversea does best—both onboard and in destination. Many of Silversea’s ships have eight distinct restaurant concepts, where regional tastes are incorporated into authentic onboard menus. When it comes to wine, Silversea offers one of the largest and broadest choices of wines aboard, with roughly 70 different labels from around the world and a particularly impressive collection of Italian vintages.

According to Chef Bilsland, while on the Northern European and British Isles routes, his time at each port is spent in search of special cheeses, beers, or spices to bring aboard. He then includes these in class presentations or features in dishes across the ship’s dining menus. Guests experience the vibrancy of each region through food and wine, while culinary excursions designed specifically for each port of call take guests straight to the action.

They also offer comprehensive culinary excursions across the world, unlocking rare producers and memorable interactions for guests. Whether making crepes in Saint-Malo, France, journeying to the heart of the Port wine region along the Douro River in Porto, Portugal, or cycling through the Saint-Emilion vineyards in Bordeaux, the food and wine excursions on Silversea’s European routes are captivating.

Additionally, Chef Bilsland always recommends visiting local markets.

“To take people and show them the spices, the cheeses, or the fish is my favorite thing to do,” he says. “To interact with the vendors, to

“Food shows the soul of the place, and its place in the heart of its people.”

– C H E F D AV I D B I L S L A N D

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CRUISE GPS

From left: Silversea Cruises’ Culinary Trainer Chef David Bilsland during a cooking demonstration; a bagpiper welcomes the ship to Armadale, Scotland. Opposite: St. Colman’s Cathedral is lined by colorful houses in the port city of Cobh, Ireland.

What is a “floating market” anyway?

Look out from your Silversea ocean-view suite in the morning in places like Thailand, Indonesia, and Curacao, and chances are you’ll see a chain of “floating markets.” These are riverside markets where local boats arrive bursting with colorful produce, fish, fresh fruit, vegetables, and exotic spices.

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get them to share a little tasting or explain the provenance of their products; to experience the bustle of people shopping, to maybe get a recipe or two from them—that is a great excursion.”

Of all the ports of call on the Northern European and British Island routes, the small city of Cobh, Ireland, stands out for Chef Bilsland.

“Here I usually visit Pat O’Connell, the fishmonger who famously welcomed the Queen of England on her visit to the market a few years ago,” he says. “The market has many food stalls and vendors, but my favorite is Frank Hederman’s Irish Smoked Salmon. He is the ultimate producer of smoked fish, and his smokehouse is located just a mile from the harbor in Cobh, where we dock. After the market, Quinlan’s Seafood Bar in Cork is the place to refuel before returning to the port.”

The intention behind the research, tasting, shopping, and preparing is to give Silversea guests a new perspective.

“I hope they enjoy a more immersive traveling experience, explore cultures in greater depth, meet memorable people, and discover new flavors and recipes,” he says. “Above all, I hope they remember an unforgettably fun and delicious experience.”

CRUISE GPS

Paying it Forward SILVERSEA’S CLEAN SEAS PROJECT Silversea is stepping up its commitment to clean waters. To help achieve this, the company has enacted its most vigorous environmental program yet—the Clean Seas Project. Via on-board practices, educational lectures, and seminars, every vessel has enhanced its contributions to the Carbon Offset policy, meeting—and often times surpassing—all environmental regulations by reducing fuel usage and air emissions, using TBT-free, non-toxic hull coatings and implementing a strict waste management plan on all ships, with crew members specially trained for sorting, processing, storing, recycling, and disposing of rubbish.

Digital Download Learn how Silversea Cruises partners with the ORCA Foundation.

Visit the website on the back cover and enter OFFER EW16087.

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CRUISE GPS

ISLAND BOUND In the wake of disaster, one cruise company is leading the way toward rebuilding a better Caribbean.

BY C L A R A W O O D B R I D G E

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CRUISE GPS

Opposite: The Caribbean's idyllic La Palmilla beach. Above: The Hope Starts Here volunteer program allows travelers to interact with young locals.

The one-two punch of Irma and Maria—the two Category Five hurricanes that swept through the Caribbean and Florida within days of each other in 2017—still ricochets throughout the islands today. From the Keys all the way down to

Antigua, the last 16 months have become an unprecedented era of rebuilding for tens of thousands who call these idyllic isles home, as well as the hotels and resorts that drive their local economies. But from this story of devastation comes proof that amazing things can happen in the face of adversity. Help turns up in unexpected places. People band together to support others—even when they themselves are in need. And kindness becomes the greatest currency of all.

It was under these circumstances that Norwegian Cruise Line Holdings, Ltd.— the company behind some of the world’s most spectacular cruises, including Regent Seven Seas Cruises®—decided to lead by example. Just days after the now-infamous pair of hurricanes devastated more than a dozen islands and caused billions of dollars in collective damage, the company announced Hope Starts Here, a hurricane-relief program with a goal to raise $2.5 million for the reconstruction of primary schools throughout the Caribbean islands.

Help turns up in unexpected places. People band together to support others. And kindness becomes the greatest currency of all.

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Just three months after the launch of Hope Starts Here, the campaign reached its goal of $2.5 million, making it the largest fundraiser in Norwegian’s 53year history.

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But it wasn’t enough to simply ask for contributions, says Nelson Fraga, Norwegian’s Senior Manager of Employee Engagement and Community Relations. Norwegian pledged to match every donation it received, dollar for dollar. And just three months after the launch of Hope Starts Here, the campaign reached its goal of $2.5 million, making it the largest fundraiser in the cruise company’s 53-year history. The first round of those donations went to immediate relief in Florida’s Key West—“We also wanted to help the people in our own backyard,” Fraga says—while the rest was earmarked for the noble cause of reconstructing schools on St. Maarten, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and the British Virgin Islands, which were among the hardest hit territories.

Last October, the first of those schools opened its doors on the BVI mainland of Tortola. Of course, there’s more to be done.

Additional schools are currently under construction in St. Thomas and St. Maarten, and plans for even more are being reviewed.

“We’ve done our share of fundraising at Norwegian in the past, but nothing to this level,” he says. “People really rallied behind us because they knew it was the right thing to do, and that gave us an incredible sense of validation. It made it all worth it—and it’s something we’ll be able to point to for a very, very long time.”

CRUISE GPS

Opposite: Sunset at English Harbor in Antigua and Barbuda, West Indies.

Clockwise from top: A playful swimming pig in the Bahamas; the Seven Seas Navigator®; snorkeling in the Caribbean's crystal-clear waters.

THE CALL OF THE CARIBBEAN This year, the Caribbean is having a serious comeback, and Regent Seven Seas Cruises® has planned three unique cruises to the area, all of which celebrate and showcase the finest in island living. The "Pink Sands & Crystal Seas" cruise aboard the Seven Seas Navigator® is bookended in New York and Miami, with ports including St. Barts, Antigua, Saint Lucia, and Bonaire. Visit the Museum of Antigua & Barbuda, which, in addition to capturing island history, also offers an exhibition of semiprecious stones. While visiting Castries, the capital of St. Lucia, travelers to the Castries Waterworks Forest Reserve get a rare glimpse of rainforest flora and fauna, while adventurers can hike up to Fort Charlotte on Morne Fortune.

While traveling aboard the Seven Seas Explorer® on the "Champagne Toasts & Caribbean Dreams" cruise, travelers begin and end in Miami, with indelible stops in Costa Maya, Mexico; Harvest Caye, Belize; and Roatan, Honduras, among others.

Experience highlights include diving the coral reefs of Roatan, taking a boat ride through the Tortuguero Canals in Puerto Limon, Costa Rica, and following the footsteps of Christopher Columbus while exploring George Town on the Cayman Islands. Regardless which cruise is preferred, Regent Seven Seas Cruises® ensures guests will leave with a newfound respect for the Caribbean's most influential and authentic island outposts.

Sea Worthy Experience the best of the Caribbean with Regent Seven Seas Cruises®.

Pink Sands & Crystal Seas on the Seven Seas Navigator®.

DEPARTS 11.4.19 Pristine Shores on the Seven Seas Explorer®.

DEPARTS 12.17.19 Champagne Toasts & Caribbean Dreams on the Seven Seas Explorer®.

DEPARTS 12.27.19

Digital Download Enter OFFER EW16087 to the website on the back cover to learn how Regent Seven Seas Cruises®’ “Return to Brazil” itinerary elevates eco-tourism.

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THE

Ripple Effect

Ambassador for The TreadRight Foundation, Céline Cousteau is helping protect people and wildlife around the globe.

BY AV E RY S TO N I C H

Above: Céline Cousteau.

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GAME CHANGER

Above: A sunset view of the Ganges in India.

Exploration, conservation, and storytelling are woven into Céline Cousteau’s DNA. The granddaughter of ocean explorer Jacques Cousteau and daughter of Jean-Michel Cousteau, she grew up in a world of adventure, where family bonding often took place on the decks of the research vessel, Calypso. Now as a documentary filmmaker, environmentalist, and cultural advocate, she’s mapping new pathways for her family legacy.

Cruise Control Since 2015, Cousteau has been an ambassador for The TreadRight Foundation, the non-profit arm of The Travel Corporation, which supports sustainable tourism projects worldwide. TreadRight helps channel the resources of 30 travel brands to positively impact the places they visit, funding projects like anti-poaching campaigns, clean-water initiatives, and habitat preservation.

HOW DID YOUR FAMILY INFLUENCE YOUR CAREER? My whole family was involved in exploration and documentary filmmaking. It naturally became part of who I was. I added my own studies, interests, and experience to return to

Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection is committed to using travel to protect people and places. In addition to supporting TreadRight, the company is working toward eliminating single-use plastics, supports environmentally responsible businesses, promotes carbon offset projects, and plants trees.

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Telling a story is an incredible way to connect and inspire people.

- - C É L I N E CO U S T E AU

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something my family has done for generations. My interest is understanding the human mind, why we behave the way we do, and how we shift consciousness and behavior. After getting my master’s degree in intercultural relations, I started working on documentary films. Now I’m moving beyond exploration and pure storytelling to defending causes.

HOW ARE YOU MAKING A DIFFERENCE WITH TREADRIGHT? I’m a spokesperson for TreadRight’s work, which all of The Travel Corporation brands (including Uniworld) contribute to.

We’re supporting local artisans and wildlife protection in the places where we travel. I help guide TreadRight in the choices of organizations they support and tell their stories. Telling a story is an incredible way to connect and inspire people.

HOW CAN TRAVELERS MAKE A DIFFERENCE? Start by being conscious before you leave. Pack a refillable water bottle and a water filter. On a bigger level, travel with respect. Honor the people you’re meeting. You’re in their home.

If you’re traveling where there are animals, respect that it’s their home. Support local organizations, artisans, and shops.

It’s about a shift in human consciousness. Every choice we make makes a difference.

GAME CHANGER

Top Tables: Prague While on shore, follow the (Michelin) stars on an edible exploration of the Czech Republic’s capital as part of Uniworld’s “Delightful Danube & Prague” river cruise.

LA DEGUSTATION BOHÊME BOURGEOISE This Czech restaurant first earned celestial acclaim in 2012 and is one of only two Michelin-star eateries in Prague. Executive Chef Oldřich Sahajdák draws inspiration from The French Laundry, dreaming up a multi-course tasting menu daily— sometimes duck, deer, mushrooms, and trout. Dinner is a lavish, elongated affair, like a symphony punctuated by intermezzo bites.

Czech wines share center stage.

From left: Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection ship; temples in Cairo, Egypt; India's Amer Fort Jaipur.

WHAT’S YOUR NEXT BIG THING? I’m working on “Tribes on the Edge,” a documentary film and impact campaign that takes place in the Brazilian Amazon with indigenous tribes who asked me to tell their story. They’re facing tremendous threats to their ancestral land, as well as a health crisis (a hepatitis epidemic). I’m creating a platform for that voice to be heard and for positive change to happen.

This project is a testament to what storytellers, explorers, adventurers, and documentary filmmakers can do beyond telling the story—to actually create positive change. It’s no small feat. It been a long road of working on my own and figuring out all the details of being a director, producer, writer, and fundraiser.

Travel with Intent Want to learn more about Uniworld's river cruises? Visit the website on the back page and enter OFFER M18674.

FIELD Another bright light in Prague, this restaurant garners one Michelin star for its unique cuisine: Czech modern inspired by Scandinavian tastes (think fermented and sour flavors). A plow hanging from the ceiling is a clue to Chef Radek Kašpárek’s quest to keep foods true to their roots. The menu features seasonal and earthy ingredients like perch and leek, or char with endive and fennel.

BELLEVUE Chef Marek Šáda fuses global flavors into mixed-media masterpieces at this fine-dining gem, which boasts Michelin’s newest distinction: The Plate symbol. Menus change seasonally, seducing with beef tartare, Porcini mushroom risotto, and duck breast with cardamom and hazelnuts. Views of Prague Castle and the Charles Bridge elevate the experience.

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Passport>Southern Africa Cape Town, Okavango Delta, and Selinda Reserve? Yes, please! BY J E N M U R P H Y Established in the U.S. more than 40 years ago, African Travel, Inc. is one of the foremost experts when it comes to organizing bush, beach, and city escapes.

Here are three not-to-miss highlights in Southern Africa.

CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA

Cape Town’s art scene has made it much more than a stop-over city for safari goers.

Culture connoisseurs now flock here to visit the newly opened Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa and to visit

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appointment-only artist studios. The Ellerman House offers spectacular Atlantic Ocean views against the dramatic backdrop of Lion’s Head in the swanky neighborhood of Bantry Bay, and lets guests feel like they’re staying in a private museum. The hotel’s resident art guide, Talia Swarts, leads tours of the nearly 100-work collection of South African art, which spans original works from the turn of the century to current contemporary pieces. She also takes guests on insider tours to Cape Town’s top art galleries.

“Four exquisite tented villas are outfitted with copper-claw foot tubs, gas fireplaces, and professional Canon cameras.”

BESPOKE

Opposite: Belmond Eagle Island Lodge in Botswana.

Clockwise from top: The entrance to Bemond Eagle Island Lodge; Zarafa Camp lounge; hippos can be spied near Zarafa Camp; Eagle Island Camp's posh sleeping quarters.

OKAVANGO DELTA, BOTSWANA

Jeep 4x4 safaris aren’t the only way to see Africa’s wildlife.

Mokoros, or traditional dugout canoes, are the safari mode of choice in Botswana’s wildlife-rich Okavango Delta. Set in the heart of the UNESCO wetlands, Belmond Safaris’ Eagle Island Lodge dates back to the 1900s, when intrepid explorers and croc hunters first flocked to the delta. Recently reimagined into a luxe base with 12 tented rooms, the lodge provides a truly unique safari experience.

Guided mokoro excursions explore the surrounding shallow waterways, giving guests an incredible vantage point to observe hippo, buffalo, giraffe, wildebeest, and crocodiles as they glide silently through the waters. Fishermen will be in heaven as these waters are rich with tilapia, African pike, and catfish.

SELINDA RESERVE, BOTSWANA

Botswana’s first Relais & Chateaux property Zarafa Camp, is also one of the continent’s greenest stays. The brainchild of the founders of Great Plains Conservation makes use of a revolutionary 150-panel solar farm that can produce enough electricity to run the camp during daylight hours.

Only recycled hardwoods and canvas are used to construct the four exquisite tented villas, which are outfitted with copper-claw foot tubs, gas fireplaces, and professional Canon cameras for capturing shots of the resident elephants. The camp’s thoughtful amenities and ecosensitivities are complemented by its incredible location on the private Selinda Reserve, the crossroads of some of northern Botswana’s most prolific wildlife areas.

Impact Zone

African Travel, Inc. is a leader in sustainable travel.

Herewith, its most powerful initiatives.

COMMITTED to eliminating all avoidable single-use plastics by 2022.

Provides guests opportunities to VOLUNTEER, including assisting at a medical clinic or making crafts with disadvantaged school children.

Active partner of the notfor-profit TREADRIGHT Foundation’s 50-plus sustainability initiatives.

Supports EKHAYA EKASI “Home in the Hood” Art Education Centre run by Uthando, a non-profit that raises funds for community development projects in South Africa.

Directly supports organizations such as SAVE THE RHINO INTERNATIONAL and Rhino Force.

Southern Africa reveals something new with every trip. Visit the website on the back cover and enter OFFER M18713 to start planning.

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Family Ties With these multi-generational escapes, outside-of-the-box is defined by unique retreats.

Above: Connecting with family at Grand Velas Riviera Maya.

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BESPOKE

Clockwise from top: The Westin Maui Resort & Spa; the Si Como No Resort & Wildlife Refuge in Costa Rica; the Ik-Kil Cenote near Chichen Itza in Mexico.

These days, time with the entire family is one of the most coveted luxuries. Unplugged adventures are paramount in keeping a family healthy and happy. These authentic Journese adventures will get the kids joyfully shunning screen time.

HAWAII > Take the entire family to Maui, where quality time equals black-sand beaches, trekking across volcanoes, and discovering the best pineapple on the planet. Here, your base camp is The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, Ka'anapali. Given its 87,000-square-foot aquatic playground—with five pools, waterslides, tropical gardens, waterfalls and a cave with a hidden jacuzzi—your clan may be hard pressed to leave the property, but there’s plenty of temptation beyond the resort.

Claim bragging rights after daring hairpin turns on the road to Hana. A little hippie town that’s big on personality, Hana feels like a step back in time. Refuel with tacos from a local food truck prior to discovering one of its many beautiful pineapple fields. The following day, take your aspiring Jacques Cousteaus to snorkel the famous Molokini Crater, a small underwater volcano located just a few miles off Maui's shore with mesmerizing aquatic life.

COSTA RICA > This playful country prides itself on ecotourism and family fun. Expansive zip line parks are peppered throughout its lush jungles, while adventures to Arenal and Tenorio Volcano National Park are fun and educational. Stay at the Si Como No Resort & Wildlife Refuge. Located along Costa Rica's Central Pacific coast, it sits atop one of the most idyllic hillsides in Manuel Antonio. Adventures are endless, including whiter-water rafting the Savegre River and a “4-in-1”

excursion to Arenal, which includes hanging bridges, a safari float, waterfall access, and a dip in the healing springs. Lastly, a visit to the Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge reveals one of the most important global wetlands, with incredible wildlife and diversity.

MEXICO > With the Grand Velas Riviera Maya as your headquarters, discover the famous ancient Mayan archaeological sites of Tulum. Though the area has fast become a stylish Bohemian hot spot (think chic yogis and a revolving circuit of international DJs), there’s still plenty of action for the entire family. Located on the south end of the Riviera Maya, discover the incredible Parque Nacional de Tulum and its Mayan archaeological sites. Hugging a seaside cliff that overlooks the sea, the archaeological wonder will impress any young adventurer. Take a family swim at Playa Ruinas, one of the best beaches in Mexico.

Spend the day at Xel-Há, where the kids can practice snorkeling among hundreds of brilliant fish that inhabit its cove and cenotes. Or visit Chichen Itza archaeological site, one of the new seven wonders of the world. Located 75 miles east of Merida, it covers nearly six square miles and features the 75-foot Kukulkan Pyramid. Back at the all-inclusive Grand Velas Riviera Maya, the kids can enjoy the Kids club, snacks and more, while mom, dad, and the grandparents can unwind at the spa prior to dining on French fare at Piaf.

Family Fun Visit the website on the back cover, enter OFFER M18714, and discover how travel can further connect you to those who matter most.

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LIVE LIKE LOCAL

A TASTE OF OZ Celebrity chef and Melbourne native Curtis Stone reveals his favorite restaurants, unforgettable vineyards, and top food festivals in the states of Victoria and South Australia. BY E R I N L E N T Z WHAT MAKES AUSTRALIA A TOP GLOBAL FOOD AND WINE DESTINATION? I’m probably biased for obvious reasons, but Australia is really where it’s all happening.

The cuisine has so many influences based on its geography. The best Asian cuisine outside of its native countries can be found in Oz. The topography is so vast that you get amazing seafood, supreme meat from the cattle in the lush valleys, and all these unusual ingredients indigenous to the land. And the New World wines are also gaining a reputation among the global wine audience.

TWO NOT-TO-MISS DINING EXPERIENCES IN VICTORIA AND SOUTH AUSTRALIA? My longtime favorite restaurant in Melbourne, Victoria is Vue du Monde by Chef Shannon Bennett. It’s a truly indulgent and quintessential Melbourne experience, with a 32

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magical view of the city (bring your appetite!). In Adelaide, South Australia, everyone raves about Restaurant Orana; I’m dying to go. Chef Jock Zonfrillo forages for native indigenous ingredients like plum pine, native honey, and green ants.

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE AUSTRALIAN WINERIES? The Barossa in South Australia is world renowned. Penfolds produces the ubiquitous Penfold Grange, the most famous Australian wine. And the Yarra Valley in Victoria is sensational. The cool climate means it produces an array of varietals, so while Cabernet Sauvignon is the backbone, it’s also famous for world-class Chardonnay and Pinot.

TOP TWO DINING RECOMMENDATIONS OUTSIDE OF AUSTRALIA’S MAJOR CITIES? Brae in Victoria’s Otway hinterland is super special. It’s set on a hillside of an organic farm and regarded as Australia’s best farm-to-table experience. It’s won multiple awards and was recently voted one of the Top 50 restaurants in the world. In South Australia, St. Hugo’s Vineyard in the

LIVE LIKE LOCAL

From left: Yarra Valley vineyards in Victoria; source-to-fork cuisine from Doot Doot Doot restaurant at Jackalope Hotel; d'Arenberg Cube at d’Arenberg winery; Chef Curtis Stone finds fresh-from-the-sea inspiration.

Barossa Valley is a wine-centric dining experience. You choose the wines and the chef serves you a meal based around your choices—very cool.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE GOURMET STAY IN VICTORIA OR SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA? Red Hill in the Mornington Peninsula has an amazing new vineyard hotel called Jackalope and a restaurant called Doot Doot Doot. It’s next on my list! The Louise in the Barossa has an acclaimed restaurant called Appellation. It’s both luxury and culinary excellence and is regarded as one of Australia’s finest dining destinations. Fresh local ingredients, cooking classes, exclusive tastings—it has the lot.

WHERE WOULD YOU RECOMMEND TRAVELERS EXPERIENCE A HANDSON FOOD OR WINE EXPERIENCE? At Penfold’s Barossa Valley Cellar Door in South Australia, you can wear a lab coat and blend your own wine—a unique and educational experience.

And I think there’s nothing better than catching your own fish (with a beer in

hand), then enjoying the fruits of your labor after a day on the water. The Bellarine Peninsula in Victoria is sensational for this.

WHAT ARE YOUR TOP TWO VIP FOOD AND WINE EXPERIENCES? The Melbourne Food & Wine Festival (March 8-24, 2019) is world class, and as far as unique experiences go, "Tasting Australia" (April 5-14, 2019)—an annual journey of South Australia’s produce from paddock to plate—is pretty cool!

ANY INSIDER TIPS FOR TRAVELERS TO VICTORIA OR SOUTH AUSTRALIA? When headed to Victoria, driving the Great Ocean Road is mandatory to see the iconic 12 Apostles.

South Australia has so many wine regions (with over 200 wine cellars within a two-hour drive of Adelaide). You’ll need a hearty constitution and a driver to experience them all.

WHAT DO YOU MISS MOST ABOUT AUSTRALIAN FOOD WHILE LIVING IN THE U.S.?

How fresh and amazing Australia’s produce is, particularly our seafood and fresh summer fruits like mangoes and cherries. Produce in Australia is truly the best in the world. Aussies are very lucky. Our fare is truly multicultural.

“Produce in Australia is truly the best in the world.”

-- CHEF C U R T I S S TO N E

Digital Download It's easy, and well worth it, to visit both Victoria and South Australia on your vacation downunder. Visit the website found on the back cover, enter OFFER EW16087 and discover the area's finest fare.

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ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES

THE CALL OF CUBA with Oceania Cruises Page 36

THE INTREPID TRAVELER Japan’s Hidden Spirits Page 40

go now

January 2019

PRESERVING THE PAST Seabourn + UNESCO Page 42

DESTINATION GPS . POINT OF VIEW . OFF THE GRID . WANDER WELL . HAVE MISSION, WILL TRAVEL >

Above: The brilliant exterior facade of Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds) in Jaipur, India.

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THE

Call of Cuba Venture with Oceania Cruises to this romanticized island and get ready for soul shine.

BY JIMMY IM

CUBA IS ONLY 90 MILES FROM FLORIDA, YET A VISIT HERE FEELS WORLDS AWAY. Steeped in culture and history, Cuba is timeless, chock-full of well preserved, colonial architecture, while unspoiled, white-sand beaches dot the coastline. Afro-Cuban music fills the streets, traditional Cuban recipes remain authentic, and classic cars are the preferred mode of transport. And no other destination serves a mojito—which was invented here—better than the island. Since tourism opened for Americans in 2015, Cuba has remained a Caribbean hot spot, and Oceania Cruises offers travelers 10 more reasons to visit. The leading culinary- and destination-focused cruise line recently debuted 10 new “Journeys to Cuba” itineraries.

Opposite: The Castillo del Morro in Havana, Cuba.

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Aboard the acclaimed Sirena, where old-world charm merges with modern comforts, 684 guests have the privilege of experiencing Cuba. The journey is equipped with 400 professional staff that ensures unforgettable service, and there are 342 intimate staterooms and suites—70 percent equipped with private, teak verandas. Oceania strives to capture the spirit of Cuba; as such, the journey to Cuba begins as soon as you step onboard. Oceania’s “Finest Cuisine at Sea” dining concept features four open-seating gourmet restaurants serving iconic 38

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Cuban fare, including authentic dishes passed down from generations-old family recipes. Guests are further immersed in Cuban culture with onboard experts delivering fascinating lectures on Cuban history, art, and music.

Departing from Miami, Oceania Cruises offers handcrafted itineraries that explore Cuba’s rich heritage, and guests visit the island’s most riveting attractions, from coast to coast. In Havana, guests will explore Old Havana’s striking landmarks like Malecon, the main thoroughfare with Baroque

DESTINATION GPS

Haute Havana PACK THOSE DANCING SHOES …

TROPICANA CABARET Opened in 1939, Tropicana Cabaret is a must. The live show is staged in a forest under the Havana sky, where performers in dramatic costumes put on a wild show to Cuban rhythms. By the end of the night, the entire audience is on their feet.

ROMA BAR A trendy bar owned by a local DJ, Roma is a hot spot for young Cubans and considered one of the top contemporary bars in the country. Expect electronic music rather than typical Cuban, and the bar gets packed after midnight. Head to the rooftop terrace for great views.

Opposite: Cienfuegos, located on Cuba’s south coast. Clockwise from top: Oceania Cruises pulls into the storied island; local Havana street musicians; the Crema de Malanga dish aboard Oceania; a Cuban local.

facades and cobblestone alleys, as well as the eclectic Plaza Vieja, where decades-old architectural styles blend. The excursion also includes must-see highlights, like the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes and old cigar factories. Ernest Hemingway famously spent close to 20 years in Cuba, and guests can relax at the American author’s former haunt, El Floridita, where mojitos or daiquiris are served while a live jazz band plays. The voyages also include shore excursions in Cienfuegos, a seaside town with a UNESCO historic city center known for neoclassical architecture,

and Santiago de Cuba, which is nestled between the Sierra Maestra Mountains and the Caribbean Sea. Here, visitors will discover the UNESCO appointed San Pedro de la Roca Castle.

Guests can also embark on Cuba voyages aboard Insignia, which recently underwent a major transformation, as well as Riviera, a stunning ship that includes Cuba in its varied Caribbean itineraries. No matter what ship you sail, the journeys to Cuba are top-notch and infused with a serious sense of place.

SALON ROSADO DE LA TROPICAL Dating back to the 1940s, Salon Rosado de la Tropical is where legendary Cuban musical Arsenio Rodriguez would perform. Today it remains a popular haunt for locals, home to large concerts and Saturday night salsa/timba dancing with live bands.

Digital Download Visit the website on the back cover and enter OFFER EW16087 to discover this country’s unique personality.

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DESTINATION GPS

The Intrepid Traveler Mark Ellwood reveals top temples, hidden eateries, and the finest sakes in Japan when traveling from Hakone to Kyoto with Cox and Kings.

Cox and Kings Traditions and Temples itinerary spans Japan in every sense—zig-zagging around the island of Honshu and the country’s astonishing cultural diversity.

It ranges from the hot spring-powered resort town of Hakone—nestled close to the cloud-capped Mount Fuji in the rustic countryside—to Osaka, the bustling and gloriously brash seaside city. Osaka’s known for its tradition of kuidaore (aka eat until you drop!), and intrepid travelers can indulge in unfamiliar tidbits like takoyaki (deep fried octopus balls). Traditions and Temples also brings visitors to Tokyo, dipping into the country’s storied past via a visit to a sumo-wrestling 40

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school, and celebrating its gleaming present in Ginza, where stores like Chanel are as much a work of art as the products on sale inside. Of course, a comprehensive visit to Japan wouldn’t be complete without a detour to Kyoto, the former Imperial capital where there’s an astonishing 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

TEMPLE HOPPING Kyoto is synonymous with temples, with more than 1,600 holy sites dotted within its city limits. Visit the Ninna-Ji, which was once a royal palace and at which the emperor serves as official high priest, and the Kinkaku-Ji, or

DESTINATION GPS

MINDFUL TRAVEL Every trip you take with Cox & Kings isn’t just enriching your own personal experience. It reinvests in the Opposite: The KinkakuJi Bhuddist temple in Kyoto.

Clockwise from top: Nokishita gin bar; Chanel Ginza courtesy of Peter Marino Architects; Kyoto’s Omen restaurant.

destination you visit. The company has partnered with Tourism Cares to donate a portion of its fees to help support the non-profit, which focuses on providing education and

Golden Temple, where the gilded pagoda shimmers as it reflects off the surrounding lake. Don’t miss the lesser known Ginkaku-Ji, or Silver Temple, which is often less trafficked and ideal for stillness and contemplation. Walk there via the Philosopher’s Path, a cherry tree-lined trail which hugs the canal.

EPICUREAN MUST Break for lunch at the noodle joint, Omen. Look for a long line of locals outside, yet don’t be afraid of the wait. Service is fast and the bowls of chewy udon, served with hot or cold broth, are delicious. And if the tatami-style seating downstairs is disconcerting, head to the upper level, with western-style tables and chairs.

SAKE, GIN, AND SUCH For centuries Kyoto has been renowned for its artisanship, a legacy of its longstanding role as the base of Japan’s imperial court and the moneyed elite that surrounded it. Kyoto-made crafts are highly prized and include kyo-yaki pottery, silk-weaving, fans, and lacquer-ware. It’s also a notable sake producer, thanks to the purity of the water at nearby Fushimi. The Gekkeikan Okura Kinenkan is a former sake warehouse that now doubles as both a museum and tasting venue. Today, Japan’s first custom-built craft gin distillery is in Kyoto, too, lured there by the artisan know-how of the locals. Look for its delicate gin, Ki-No-Bi (or Beauty of the Seasons) at one of the

new crop of downtown cocktail bars. Squeeze into the 12-person Nokishita and order a drink from the bartender. Spirits are artfully presented in a spotlit frame, more like a liquid work of art than a thirst quencher. Next up, it’s dinner at Giro Giro, located just a few blocks away. This serves an approachable and affordable riff on the kaiseki meal, Japan’s answer to a tasting menu, with seven bite-sized courses. Ask for one of the seats at the counter, which has views of both the canal and the chefs who handcraft dishes from a dorm room-sized kitchen.

AFTER HOURS Make sure to walk around the neighborhood of Gion.

It’s full of bars, restaurants and teahouses and is the city’s original nightlife ‘hood. Find the NITI café, located down a little alleyway and housed in an old ochaya, or a café where geishas once entertained.

Slip off your shoes and order one of its shaved ice desserts. A mountain of feather-light shards is drizzled with a green tea syrup and filled with aromatic red bean paste. Once dusk falls, you’ll emerge into a different world. As the sun sets, paper lanterns hung from low-slung buildings flicker into life, while an occasional artfully dressed geisha will sashay determinedly down the street. The narrow, winding streets are rimmed with wood-framed houses, and a walk here feels like stepping back into Edo-era Japan. It’s a reminder that Traditions and Temples is a trip in both time and space.

training to help locals manage and benefit from the surge in tourism worldwide. To date, $2M in grants have been distributed to organizations in more than 30 countries.

Epic ski terrain, temples, and sake? Enter OFFER 1317185 to the website found on the back cover to learn more.

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POINT OF VIEW

Preserving Our Past Seabourn’s partnership with UNESCO ensures a prescient vision for cultural relevance. BY JIMMY IM In 1977, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) found beautiful parts of the world so significant that it aimed to preserve them. UNESCO established the first World Heritage Committee which, in 1978, inscribed 12 breathtaking, cultural places to the first UNESCO World Heritage List. Forty years later, there are more than 1,000 locations that inspire travelers every day.

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UNESCO is the Academy Awards for travel destinations; making the list is highly competitive and the criteria is strict.

Selected places prove exceptional testimony to culture and have aesthetic importance. As such, viewing the sites is a once-ina-lifetime experience—and there’s no better way to reach them than a Seabourn cruise.

Via a unique partnership with UNESCO, Seabourn Journeys curates land-based extensions pre- and post-cruise that take guests to appointed, awe-inspiring sites, including World Heritage sites that can’t be accessed on a single-day excursion.

Seabourn fosters similar values as UNESCO in promoting sustainable tourism, which is pivotal to the success of its journeys. Guests not only explore treasured UNESCO sites (many in just one itinerary), but in addition, dedicated onboard experts give lectures on what makes the sites so impressive, precious, and protected. Seabourn celebrates UNESCO World

POINT OF VIEW

From left: Beijing’s Forbidden City; a Buddhist monk reflects on the Angkor temples in Siem Reap, Cambodia; a Buddha statue marks the ancient Borobudur temple in Central Java, Indonesia; Brazil’s gorgeous Iguazu Falls.

Heritage Convention’s mission to identify, safeguard, and promote unique, global cultural, and natural heritage that possess outstanding universal value for mankind.

In other words: prepare for life-changing moments.

Guests can choose itineraries based on World Heritage visits, and Seabourn offers special access with its handcrafted World Heritage Tours (denoting appointed sites on cruises) and Discovery Tours—exclusive, enhanced World Heritage shore excursions explored through Seabourn’s UNESCO alliance.

Among the incredible journeys, guests can embark on “UNESCO South America: Rio, Iguazu Falls & Buenos Aires.” In Rio, guests will visit Christ the Redeemer and Sugar Loaf Mountain—two World Heritage sites with sweeping views of the city. They’ll experience the magnificent Iguazu Falls on a suspended walkway before heading to Buenos Aires for iconic sites, like “Evita” Peron’s monument in La Recoleta cemetery.

With “UNESCO Treasure of China: Beijing, Xi’an & Hong Kong,” guests will explore the historic Temple of Heaven, Tiananmen

Square and Forbidden City in Beijing, as well as the Mutianyu section of the Great Wall of China. Ancient history is explored in Xi’an, home to the Chinese-style Great Mosque and ancient City Wall. In Hong Kong, guests truly immerse in the dynamic city by visiting notable attractions like Hollywood Road and Victoria Peak.

A bucket-list destination in Southeast Asia, “Cambodia: Phnom Penh & the Temples of Angkor” takes guests through Cambodia’s most distinguished attractions, including Angkor Wat. The temple complex (which dates back to the 12th-century) is full of wonder, with fascinating architecture and history.

Among Seabourn’s once-in-a-lifetime trips, “UNESCO India’s Golden Triangle” takes guests on an exotic journey through Old Delhi and New Delhi, as well as to admire the Agra Fort. Guests visit the Taj Mahal and then explore the colorful city of Jaipur. It all ends with an elephant safari in a forest camp for a highly personalized experience.

By the Numbers 1092 World Heritage sites.

170 The number of designated UNESCO World Heritage sites that Seabourn visits.

12 sites appointed in UNESCO World Heritage Committee’s first year.

20 new UNESCO inscriptions in 2018.

5 Seabourn ships in its fleet.

UNESCO site hopping?

Check! Enter OFFER M18711 to the website on the back cover and global history is at your fingertips.

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OFF THE GRID

TRACK RECORD Come face to face with mountain gorillas in Rwanda and Uganda and contribute to anti-poaching efforts along the way.

BY JEN MURPHY

Above: Gorilla tracking in Rwanda has become a dream trip for active travelers.

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OFF THE GRID

The daily presence of trackers, porters, guides, and guests helps scare off potential poachers.

From top: Only eight tracking permits are issued per troop, per day in Uganda.

Bwindi National Park is famous as the home of mountain gorillas.

By the Numbers

1,000

Approximate number of mountain gorillas living in the wild.

96

Gorilla

tracking permits issued per day in Rwanda.

440

Average

weight in pounds of an adult male mountain gorilla.

10

Percent

of revenue from Rwanda’s permits channeled towards local communities.

here are few wildlife encounters as surreal and spine tingling as coming face to face with a mountain gorilla. Future generations, however, may never get the chance to observe these gentle giants in the wild. The gorilla has endured years of war, poaching, habitat destruction, and disease—threats so severe that it was once thought the species might be extinct by the end of the 20th century. In 1981, the population hit a record low of fewer than 300 remaining mountain gorillas. Dr. Dian Fossey dedicated most of her life to studying, habituating, and protecting the mountain gorillas in Central Africa. Her legacy lives on through the work of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International, which has helped the critically endangered species slowly bounce back. Thanks to conservation efforts between governments, communities, and NGOs like the Dian Fossey Fund, the population has grown to just over 1,000 at last count in 2018.

The largest living primate, gorillas are spread across much of the densely forested and mountainous areas of Central Africa. More than half of the gorilla population lives in the Virunga Mountains, a volcanic range that spans Rwanda, the Democratic Republic of Congo, and Uganda.

The remainder can be found in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park in Uganda. Tourism in these regions

has proved to be one of the most effective means of eliminating poaching. The daily presence of trackers, porters, guides, and guests helps scare off potential poachers. It also provides poachers an alternative form of income.

Swain Destinations supports the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International as well as Visit Rwanda, two agencies who work tirelessly to protect the mountain gorillas. When Swain Destinations arranges gorilla trekking itineraries in Rwanda or Uganda, they can hire a porter to assist the tracker.

In doing so, they’re providing jobs to ex-poachers.

The extraordinary journeys provide a once-in-alifetime chance to observe the mountain gorillas in their natural habitat while staying in some of Africa’s top lodges, like the new Bisate from Wilderness Safaris. In Uganda, guests spend two days trekking the huge primeval forest in the depths of Bwindi National Park in search of mountain gorillas as well as chimpanzees. In Rwanda, travelers spend two days tracking a troop of gorillas in Volcanoes National Park. Only eight tracking permits are issued per troop per day. Hikes up to their locations can last 30 minutes to more than four hours, reaching an altitude of between 8,200 and 13,120 feet. Once groups encounter their assigned troop, they have one hour in their company. Most would agree—it’s an hour they’ll never forget.

2

Populations

of gorillas left in the world, split between the Virunga Mountains and Bwindi Impenetrable National Park.

0

Number of

gorillas poached in Rwanda as of 2018.

Is gorilla tracking a bucket-list wish?

Visit the website on the back cover, enter OFFER M18712, and the best of the African bush awaits.

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G O NOW /

WANDER WELL

TO THE

Canyon!

Forty years later, the original wellness resort is still making history.

BY CL ARA WOODBRIDGE

Next year will mark four decades since Mel Zuckerman founded Canyon Ranch. The

Arizona resort—which Zuckerman envisioned as a luxurious antidote to standard, caloriecounting retreats—has been on the cutting edge of wellness ever since. In the ’80s that meant off-the-wall treatments like seaweed body wraps and acupuncture; in the ’90s, it was strange new dining ideas like jicama salad and mocktails.

Of course, today we’re all relatively fluent in the ways of healthy living; kale soup and mud baths don’t seem quite as extreme as they used to. But 40 years of life-changing

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experiences haven’t slowed Canyon Ranch down one bit. The resort (which now has a second location in Lenox, Mass., as well as numerous spas on cruise ships around the world like Oceania Cruises and Regent Seven Seas Cruise®) is still leading the pack with outside-the-box therapies that even the most steadfast of wellness gurus would have a hard time keeping up with. Here, a rundown of the most innovative—and unusual—new ways to elevate your mind, body, and spirit at the legendary retreat.

GENOVIVE: We tend to blame everything on our genes, but Canyon Ranch is putting the question of hereditary traits to rest with its new GenoVive genetic testing. The assessment evaluates 24 different genes that can be broken down to explain everything from our ideal weight to our snacking behavior. Using these results, the resort’s nutrition team produces detailed and personalized nutrition programs—so the next time you reach for

WANDER WELL

those potato chips, you’ll have evidence as to why you’re craving them (and why you probably shouldn’t eat them).

POLYSOMNOGRAPHY: Canyon Ranch has gone beyond simple relaxation techniques and meditation mandates and opened a state-of-the-art sleep lab to help sleepers address their concerns.

The resort’s full-night sleep studies invite guests to bed down for a full night in the lab. They work one-on-one with a sleep technologist who thoroughly monitors their night— every breath, every heartbeat, several different brainwaves, and various key movements if they arise to disrupt sleep—to evaluate what may lead to finally getting a good night’s rest.

ACUTONICS: Forget acupuncture. The newest way to align your chakras and awaken your trigger points isn’t with needles—it’s with forks. But don’t go grabbing utensils out of your kitchen for an at-home cure; Canyon Ranch uses tuning forks—two-pronged instruments that vibrate with acoustic pitches—to bring all of your energy centers into balance. You’ll even get a soothing soundtrack with bells and gongs used to cause the vibrations in the forks.

Opposite: Finding balance at Canyon Ranch in Arizona. Above, from left: Acutonics is the newest way to align your chakras; Canyon Ranch is a trailblazer in innovative wellness monitoring.

INNER BALANCE BY HEARTMATH: You could just book an aromatherapy session to manage your stress—but you might not see long-term results. Canyon Ranch has a more empirical way of addressing all that tension in your shoulders with the Inner Balance sensor, which trains you to replace emotional stress with balance and coherence.

Using HeartMath’s proprietary technology, the resort’s behavioral therapists teach guests how to improve their focus, get better sleep, and monitor their feelings of stress on a daily basis.

ULTRA-MOISTURIZING COCOON: If it all sounds a little bit too far out for you, head to the spa for a good oldfashioned massage. This being Canyon Ranch, however, we suggest something suitably innovative: The UltraMoisturizing Cocoon suspends your body in a weightless, floating nest while a therapist applies goat butter cream to your body. Given Canyon Ranch’s track record, in a few years, everyone will be doing it!

Prime Pampering

“Canyon Ranch has gone beyond simple relaxation techniques and meditation, opening a state-of-theart sleep lab.”

Discover exclusive privileges at Canyon Ranch, including a $160 spa, sport, or integrative wellness service credit, by entering OFFER 1289916 to the website on the back cover.

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HAVE MISSION, WILL TRAVEL

SAFARI FOR A CAUSE Micato’s AmericaShare program is proof that travel can truly transform.

BY MEREDITH DIERS

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Change Agent A visit to local African communities reveals a land ripe with opportunity.

With these Micato Itineraries that include local philanthropy, travelers are learning how to support lifechanging programs.

AFRICAN SPLENDOUR

Cape Town>Victoria Falls>Nairobi>Lake Manyara>Ngorongoro Crater>Serengeti National Park>Maasai Mara.

Opposite: Micato Safari travelers have impactful visits and experiences in the Mukuru slum of Nairobi. Above: One of the greatest rewards of AmericaShare programs is a child’s smile.

“We enjoyed our safari experience, but meeting Irene and spending time with her was definitely the highlight of our trip to Kenya,” says Nina Patel, a traveler with Micato Safaris.

Irene is a local Kenyan who has benefited from Micato’s impactful non-profit foundation, AmericaShare, which improves the lives of vulnerable and impoverished children and women in the Mukuru slum of Nairobi.

AmericaShare is proof that travel can truly transform via programs that support quality education,

business assistance, and care for those affected by HIV/AIDS. And for Patel, this give-and-get philosophy has also positively impacted her own daughters.

“I thought sponsoring a girl similar in age to my daughters would be easier and more meaningful. Irene is right in the middle of my two daughters’ age.

It’s helpful in writing to her, and for them to relate to each other,” adds Patel.

It’s common for sponsors and their families to continue to correspond with their student and develop a trusted relationship long after the initial trip.

Micato believes great journeys often involve great contrasts.

During this trip, experience 34 degrees of latitude and four countries. Here’s what’s on the itinerary: • Passage through East and Southern African landmarks, including buzzing and beautiful Cape Town, epic Victoria Falls, and the legendary game reserves of East Africa.

• A collection of carefully curated hotels, camps, and lodges, including the One&Only in Cape Town, Anantara’s newest hotel in Zambia, the Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti, and Sir Richard Branson’s personal camp in Kenya.

• Wine tasting in the gorgeous Cape Winelands, exploring the wondrous Cape Point Nature Reserve on the continent’s southern tip, and eventful game drives and walks in the heart of East Africa’s big game country.

• A visit to AmericaShare’s Harambee Centre, where you’ll experience the reality of Nairobi’s Mukuru slum and meet remarkable children and other members of the community.

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THE HEART OF KENYA AND TANZANIA

Nairobi>Tarangire>Ngorongoro Crater>Serengeti National Park>Maasai Mara

Spend two weeks on this once-ina-lifetime journey, and your global perspective will most likely shift for the better. Trip highlights include: • A focus on game activities in East Africa’s most bountiful wildlife areas, emphasizing big herds and their predators.

• A visit to the Olduvai Gorge, where the Leakey family unearthed our ancestor, the 1.75 million-year-old fossil Homo habilis.

• Unscripted, familial visits in Maasai villages and dining in Nairobi with Micato’s founders, Jane and Felix Pinto.

• A visit to David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, Kenya’s foremost animal orphanage and conservation foundation.

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“We definitely have more of a connection with Irene since we visited her during the holidays in 2017,” says Patel. “We hope to continue building on this relationship so that our girls will continue to feel grateful for their abundance and be able to understand how to make a difference in someone’s life through education.”

Micato Safaris has offered travelers luxurious and extraordinary access to people, places, and experiences throughout Africa for more than 50 years. Several Micato Safaris itineraries end with a visit to the Harambee Community Centre in Mukuru. Often guests fall in love with the children, or one specific child in particular, and want to know how they can further help. The School Sponsorship Programme provides the orphaned and vulnerable children with life-changing education. And the global, cross-cultural relationships inspire travelers to make a difference. The opportunity to spend time with the children at the Community Centre and develop a longlasting relationship through correspondence lets donors see and experience the impact they’re making.

HAVE MISSION, WILL TRAVEL

Opposite: Education is the anchor to AmericaShare’s mission. Clockwise from top: Travelers lift the spirits of local kids; young students are proud of their local schools; empowering women to learn life-long skills.

Micato traveler Katie Cadar sponsored Samson, a 13-year-old Kenyan boy. “We correspond with him, sending letters and cards,” she says. “We have seen the growth over the last three years—his writing is more mature, his comments to us are charming.”

Additionally, more than 130,000 girls have received “Huru Kits” with reusable sanitary pads, saving the girls from missing 3.5 million school days. An exclusive Micato experience geared toward teens is helping to distribute Huru Kits to these girls.

Travelers may visit Africa for the wildlife and rugged landscapes, yet when they depart, it’s the people of Africa that often resonate most. As such, Micato’s philosophy is to expose travelers to a broad spectrum of Africa—the beauty, poverty, tribal cultures, politics, social trends, urbanization, and gender issues. Travelers leave with a deep understanding and appreciation for Africa; there’s a ripple effect, and paying it forward is further defined.

We have seen the growth over the last three years—his writing is more mature, his comments to us are charming.”

- - M I C ATO T R AV E L E R K AT I E C A D A R

Say, Safari! Visit the website found on the back cover, enter OFFER M18709, and discover how you can make a difference through Micato’s AmericaShare program.

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HAVE MISSION WILL TRAVEL

Global Impact Step aboard a Crystal Cruise and discover how to give back. BY ERIN LENTZ

In January 2011, Crystal Cruises® Vice President of Land Programs, John Stoll, decided it was time to make a change. His a-ha moment? He lost both his brother and father to cancer.

After donating money to various cancer organizations yet unsure where the funds actually went, he asked himself, “How do you best help people?” His answer: By helping one person at a time.

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HAVE MISSION WILL TRAVEL

Opposite: The scenic Makapu’u Beach in Oahu, Hawaii. From left: Learning about indigenous animals at Territory Wildlife Park; Crystal Cruises Vice President of Land Programs, John Stoll.

“The influence that Crystal can provide motivated me to pursue something a little bit more,” Stoll says. “Rather than just marquee tours, we asked, ‘What can we do to leave the destination better than we found it?’”

As a 30-year veteran of the travel and cruise industries, what began as a small idea to develop a program that gives back to local communities has evolved into one of Crystal’s most successful initiatives.

Crystal’s “You Care, We Care” voluntourism program is part of the Crystal Adventures Shore Excursion Programs. Stoll and his passionate team have developed diverse volunteer excursions, where guests and crew get directly involved in worthwhile causes in the destinations visited. Crystal handles all logistics, and via these complimentary

guest opportunities, the program helps travelers give back while fostering cross-cultural awareness and bolstering local economies.

The program includes initiatives to support poverty relief, education, workplace training, cultural preservation, environmental conservation, animal welfare, building homes, renovating local schools and community centers, and helping improve communities’ living conditions. Mostly, however, it’s about showing local communities that travelers care.

“We realized our guest and crew would benefit in getting their hands dirty, while also leaving with an experience of the local people,” Stoll says. “We want travelers to give mind, body, and soul—and that means don’t expect to get treated a certain way. It’s a selfless effort and a guest opportunity to make a difference in a tiny or large part of the world.”

“We realized our guest and crew would benefit in getting their hands dirty, while also leaving with an experience of the local people.”

- - J O H N S TO L L

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From left: South Africa’s Siyaphambili Orphanage; Crystal Cruise guests on a volunteer mission.

Opposite: The SOS Children’s Villages in Uruguay.

THOSE PARTS OF THE WORLD THAT HAVE BEEN POSITIVELY IMPACTED ARE MANY. Stoll and team

meticulously vet areas where help is needed most—You Care, We Care is judicious about what will affect the most change. “We ask, ‘What impression will it leave with the local communities or foundations, and how can we best benefit the cause?’ And then there was also the mantra of let’s just do it because it’s the right thing to do,” he explains.

The program has reached such far-flung locales as an orphanage in Cambodia, an elderly center in Dubrovnik, Croatia, and a food bank on St. John’s island. And given its access to global resources and a fleet of seafaring vessels that can quickly deliver supplies, Stoll and his team have also been able to react quickly to global natural disasters, including the recent Hilo volcanic eruption in Hawaii. Guests can decide where they want to offer

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a helping hand, whether at a burn center in Lima, Peru, or cleaning up buildings at The Smile of the Child Foundation, which helps abused children in Athens, Greece. “You make an immediate impact that you can see, feel, and touch,” says Stoll.

And though the program supports the environment, people, communities, and animals, it’s often the simplest of gestures that further fuel his passion to evolve the program.

“After we went to the child orphanage in Cambodia, we sent them clothes and paint brushes (for their art program),” he says.

“The first thing they did was write us a thank you note using those paint brushes and art supplies. Sometimes it’s not a big thing.

Rather, it’s just seeing a smile on a kid’s face.”

You Care, We Care is improving destinations for future generations. “You can tell your grandchildren about destinations that used to exist, or you can say what you did to help them continue to exist,” Stoll adds. “I get goose bumps to think I’m a part of something that actually causes change and effect. It exceeds my expectations. It’s more sometimes than I can ever imagine.”

Digital Download Visit the website on the back cover and enter OFFER EW16087 to learn about Crystal’s onboard culinary offerings.

HAVE MISSION WILL TRAVEL

Making a Difference Crystal Cruise’s “You Care, We Care” Program has an impactful global reach.

LIMA, PERU. Anquiem Burn Rehab center—arts and crafts at children’s burn center.

ASTORIA, OREGON. Friends of Fort Stevens—improving St. Stevens State Park.

BERLIN/WARNEMUNDE, GERMANY. Rostock Zoological Garden—assist zookeepers in feeding the animals and maintaining their natural habitats.

CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA. Langa Township and Siyaphambili orphanage—assist orphans with homework, learn about local arts, crafts, and culture.

CARTAGENA, COLOMBIA. Granitos de Paz Foundation— helping children and elderly in barrio farming.

DARWIN, AUSTRALIA. Territory Wildlife Park— biodiversity and botanical garden assistance.

HONOLULU, HAWAII. Makapu’u Beach Native Coastal Plant Preserve—Makapu’u Beach gardening and coastal plant education.

LAUTOKA, FIJI. Treasure House Orphanage— redecorating orphans’ playroom.

RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL. Rio Voluntário—activities for children from Rio orphanage.

SITKA, ALASKA. Sitka Sound Science Center— wildlife preservation via assistance with operation and maintenance of salmon hatchery or marine-life exhibits.

SRI LANKA. Sarvodaya Building project (waterrelated) or adult education.

TALLINN, ESTONIA. Estonian Food Bank—packing and donating food.

MARIGOT BAY, ST. MAARTEN. St. Maarten Pride Foundation— hands-on cultural and historical preservation efforts.

MONTEVIDEO, URUGUAY. SOS Children’s Village— underprivileged children’s village support activities.

NAPIER, NEW ZEALAND. Hakikino Conservation Reserve Conservation efforts.

PUERTO VALLARTA, MEXICO. Peace Organization—beach clean-up and community beautification.

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FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR.

ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES

January 2019

OFF THE BEATEN PATH Italy Page 58

GO NORTH! Iceland Page 68

SECOND ACT

British Virgin Islands Page 78

Above: The Northern lights, as seen from the city center in Reykjavik, Iceland.

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LA DOLCE VITA Discovering Italy’s Majestic South.

BY JEN MURPHY

The ancient town of Matera at sunrise, in Basilicata.

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IN-THE -KNOW

travelers are always looking for the next Tuscany, and in recent years, Puglia has been whispered as the heir apparent. But during a five-day road trip around Basilicata, the arch of Italy’s foot, and Puglia, Italy’s heel, I find this “new Tuscany” to be very little like Tuscany at all.

Forget Tuscany’s iconic rolling hills lined with rows of tall cypress trees. My friend Val and I are instantly captivated by Puglia’s landscape, which alternates between sprawling ancient olive groves dotted with conical trulli houses, and dazzling sapphire blue coast. Instead of grand villas, we stay in masserias, gleaming white fortified farmhouses. And while Tuscany gets all of the attention for its culinary treasures—prosciutto, Brunello, and more—we fall in love with Puglia’s distinctive cuisine. Capicola, Puglia’s prosciutto, and taralli, addictive, ring-shaped bread snacks, are aperitivo staples, nibbled between sips of rosé made from the indigenous Susumaniello grape. And after one bite of creamy burrata, I swear I’ll never touch plain old mozzarella again.

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Opposite: Burrata making at Borgo Egnazia hotel in Puglia.

Below: Charming Trulli houses in Alberobello, Apulia.

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Opposite, clockwise from top: Owner Corrado Rodio at Masseria Brancati Olive Oil; juicy olives at Masseria Brancati; Puglia is famous for its delectable olive oil; the stylish estate at Masseria Brancati.

Right: the historic Piazza Duomo in Lecce.

CUCINAS + OLIVE OIL, PLEASE Don’t be fooled by Puglia’s reputation as a place for simple indulgences. This agricultural area has plenty of riches. We enlist Antonello Losito, the Puglia-born owner of Southern Visions Travel, to help us uncover them. To foodies like Val and I, high-quality olive oil is liquid gold, which makes Puglia our jackpot. “Puglians are born with olive oil in their veins,” Losito tells us with a wink. On a tour of Masseria Brancati, an ancient estate just outside of the famed “white city” of Ostuni, we learn that Puglia is home to 50 million olive trees and produces 80 percent of Italy’s olive oil. The estate’s gnarled trees, spaced exactly 60 feet apart, date back three centuries, and their olives yield a strong, zesty oil which we taste during an al fresco lunch with estate owner Corrado Rodio.

The region’s cuisine, cucina povera, traces its roots back to a style of frugal peasant cooking that made do without former luxury items such as butter, eggs, and meat. Most dishes, Losito explains, rarely feature more than three ingredients. Our flavorful spread at Masseria Brancanti embodies Puglian simplicity: bean soup, then a classic casserole-like dish of oily fish and bread crumbs called scapece, and for dessert, freshly sliced persimmon served alongside a whipped ricotta that could double as a minimalist cheesecake.

“Puglians are born with olive oil in their veins,” Losito tells us with a wink.

MATERA A road trip through southern Italy, Val and I decide, is the closest we’ll ever come to time travel. One minute we’re passing factories on the highway, the next, we’re driving along a narrow, cobbled-stone street in the shadows of the rock-cut cave dwellings of Matera, located in Basilicata.

During WWII, its 15,000-some residents were forced to abandon the city. Today, those same caves have been transformed into five-star boutique hotels and restaurants and the city has been dubbed one of Europe’s two Cultural Capitals for 2019.

LECCE In Lecce, each turn is like a portal between past and present. A street lined with gelato shops and artisan boutiques spits us out into Piazza Sant’Oronzo, where the excavated remains of a 2nd-century AD Roman Amphitheater are on full display. It’s not hard to imagine gladiators preparing to battle, but today the space is used for concerts.

The comparisons to Tuscany extend to Lecce, which has earned the nickname, the Florence of the South, thanks to its Baroque architectural monuments. After an afternoon strolling the city, Val and I both agree that Lecce is in a category of its own, as is the architecture. The area’s soft,

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Top Tables AVANT GARDE: 3 RANE, LECCE After working in top restaurants around the globe, 37-year-old Piedmont native Maurizio Raselli has returned to Italy. He’s put down roots in a tiny space near the Lecce castle.

Raselli cut back the number of tables to just five so he could have a bigger kitchen and ensure a personal dining experience. His food is rooted in Salento (horse filet is on the menu) but has a creative, international flare.

Raselli hand delivers dishes like sous vide octopus with carrot and orange cream and matches them with wines from his all-organic cellar.

A four-course meal with a glass of wine costs just 35 euros, making this one of the best deals in town.

OLD SCHOOL: OSTERIA CASALE, MATERA Excellent cucina povera paired with local aglianico wines is the attraction of this simple, white-walled space with its terracotta floors and excellent, friendly service.

Humble ingredients like turnip tops and breadcrumbs get transformed when added to orecchiette pasta spiked with anchovies. And though the pizza toppings may sound wacky, combinations like pumpkin cream, pork belly, stracciatella cheese and mozzarella, and mortadella and pistachio grain are irresistible.

Save room for the house dessert—an airy whipped ricotta layered with fig and hazelnut mousse.

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From top: The lavish Villa Meravigliosa at Borgo Egnazia hotel features a rooftop terrace, large private garden, patio, and pool; suites at Borgo Egnazia celebrate an authentic sense of place.

creamy limestone allows for incredibly ornate carvings that have earned the city’s architectural style the distinction of Lecce Baroque. We marvel for a good 15 minutes at the best example—the impeccably detailed façade of Basilica di Santa Croce, which is believed to have taken 200 years to complete.

THE ADRIATIC COAST + BORGO EGNAZIA HOTEL That level of design detail surrounds us at Borgo Egnazia, a five-star hotel in Fasano along the Adriatic Coast. Constructed entirely from the local tufa stone and modeled after a 15th- century Apulian village, the resort brilliantly melds past and present. The estate is divided into three sections: La Corte, or the main hotel; the labyrinth-like “Il Borgo,” or village, with rows of duplex townhouses; and the outlying villas, each with a private pool. Every design detail pays homage to local tradition, from the ubiquitous pumo, a flower-bud like ceramic sculpture that symbolize good luck, to the old farming tools that adorn the walls of the townhouses.

It’s easy to feel like you’re on a movie set, especially when guests include stars like Madonna and Justin Timberlake. But owner Aldo Melpignano has created a down-to-earth vibe that encourages guests to slow down and reconnect with themselves and the surrounding nature. To that end, each guest is appointed a “local friend” who can help tailor a truly authentic experience, including aromatherapy sessions at the hotel’s award-winning Vair Spa, cycling trips to the nearby coastal town of Monopoli, and a seafront lunch of crudo at the local gem, Pescharia 2 Mare.

Val and I have been keeping a Tuscany-versus-Puglia culinary scorecard along

our journey, and though Tuscany is famous for good reason and always worth a return trip, the south impresses, too, when we see Borgo Egnazia’s breakfast room, which includes an entire station dedicated to cake. Lucky for us, the resort’s talented chef puts a healthful, Mediterranean-touch on his tasting menus at Due Camini, one of the six restaurants on property.

On our final day we head to Ostuni to shop for souvenirs. Val tries to buy a spoon carved from olive wood but the artisan is so attached to the piece he decides it’s not for sale. I am turned away at a hat shop; it’s only 11 a.m. but the owner explains he’s already sold five hats that morning and so he’s going to the beach. Our money is no good here, we joke. The locals in this region care more about quality of life than becoming rich. And there within lies the magic of Puglia—la dolce vita here is all about life’s simple pleasures.

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Shopping GPS>Grotagglie The small village of Grotagglie is a shrine to the historic craft of ceramics.

Dozens of workshops and galleries line the streets.

Here are two not-to-miss boutiques.

ENZA FASANO CERAMICHE The daughter of one of Puglia’s most esteemed ceramics masters, Enza Fasano is known for breaking tradition and experimenting with bold colors and patterns. At her atelier, find modern twists on classic regional motifs like the cactus leaf, rooster, and artichoke.

BOTTEGA VESTITA Part workshop, part gallery, visitors can watch artisans throw clay on a potter’s wheel as they browse shelves of brilliantly colored pumo. Locals believe the flower-bud shaped ceramic to be a good luck charm and place it on the balconies of their homes.

Opposite, clockwise from top: Preparing fresh sea urchin plucked from local waters; Borgo Egnazia hotel; traditional whitewashed Apulian architecture; local tomatoes inspire seasonal cuisine. Above: Salento’s streets come alive with music and dance.

The Rhythm of Salento A Revived Folk Music Tradition In Salento, there’s a centuries-old legend that when a peasant woman was bitten by a tarantula while working in the fields she would become possessed by the creature. Itinerant musicians would be called to the victim’s home with their violins, guitars, flutes, and tambourines to play pizzica, a folk music that would start slowly and crescendo into a fast, hypnotic, tambourine-driven beat. The woman danced frenetically to the rhythm as she exorcised the spider, a metaphor for the devil, from her body. Today this wild dance, known as taranta, and folk music, pizzica, is celebrated with a summer festival known as La Notte della Taranta. During two weeks in August, musicians, DJs, and bands from around the world descend on farmhouses throughout Salento to host concerts and dance parties. The event culminates in the town of Melpignano. Past festivals have attracted big names like Buena Vista Social Club and Stewart Copeland.

Digital Download Dreaming about off-the-beaten path adventures?

Visit the website found on the back cover, enter OFFER EW16087, and discover Editor at Large Ignacio Maza’s list of Italy’s hidden gems.

Shopping GPS>Lecce For one-of-a-kind, handmade fashion and home goods, there’s no better place to shop. Here’s your blackbook.

ARTIGIANATO SALENTINO Owner Valeria Inguscio handcrafts many of the pieces, like paintings and silk scarves. She also curates local finds like silk raffia handbags and sea-inspired ceramic pieces.

IJO DESIGN Designer Annalisa Surace uses century-old, olive wood hand looms to craft gorgeous scarves and shawls. Her earthy jewelry showcases natural materials such as lava and agate.

TONDA DESIGN Owner-designers Melinda Massaro and Tonio Pede showcase a quirky mix of contemporary furnishings and baroque corian jewelry at their gallery.

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FIRE & ICE

EDITOR AT LARGE IGNACIO MAZA DISCOVERS THE ETHEREAL LANDSCAPES OF ICELAND AND VIBRANT REYKJAVÍK.

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One of the most photographed landmarks in Iceland, Kirkjufellsfoss mountain and waterfall is located near Grundarfjordur on the northern side of Snaefellsnes.

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celand is one of the most intriguing places on earth.

During a recent exploration I discovered many unique characteristics of the country. For starters, Iceland sits where two massive tectonic plates meet, which explains the island’s 25 active volcanoes, geysers, hot springs, and endless plains of crushed lava. Roughly the size of Virginia in the U.S. and located on the edge of the Arctic Circle in the far North Atlantic, Iceland wasn’t settled until the 9th century, when Viking clans built permanent homes on the island. The country was governed by Denmark for nearly 500 years and eventually became an independent republic in 1944. Despite the rough terrain, blustery weather, and long winter nights, Icelanders are some of the warmest and friendliest people in the world. When you visit, you’ll discover a country rich in natural wonders and primed for outdoor enthusiasts. And if you’re a collector of one-of-a-kind journeys and a flexible traveler undeterred by unpredictable weather, this hot spot should climb to the top of your 2019 travel wish list.

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Clockwise from top left: The famous Blue Lagoon; ION Adventure Hotel; Reykjavík, the capital of Iceland; the design-forward Harpa Concert Hall, located on the harbor in Reykjavík.

THE GOLDEN CIRCLE

REYKJAVÍK If this is your first visit, spend a week in the Southeast region, where you’ll experience uncommon adventures every day. Most travelers start in Reykjavík, the northernmost capital in the world and home to 60 percent of Iceland’s population. With just 200,000 residents, Reykjavík is easy to navigate. Start your day by walking through the historic quarter, with plenty of museums, shops, and restaurants. If you have time to visit only one museum, see the Settlement Exhibition, which celebrates Iceland’s unique and tragic history. Walk through the ultramodern Harpa Concert Hall (located on the harbor), and don’t miss the view from the top of the bell tower at Hallsgrímskirkja Church. If you have time for a hot thermal bath, visit the Laugardalslaug complex.

The most popular day trip from Reykjavík is the Golden Circle, which includes many of Iceland’s best-known sites. The good news is they’re close to the capital. The downside? Sites get crowded, especially during summer. Visit top attractions early or late in the day to avoid peak times. Notto-miss landmarks include Thingvellir National Park. Located in a park-like setting and the first parliament in the world, it’s now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Continue to Geysir (gusher in Icelandic) and see the Great Geyser, which erupts every 10 to 15 minutes, sending up a 100-foot tall plume of hot water. And make time to witness Gullfoss (aka golden waterfall), a powerful double cascade and Iceland’s most famous waterfall.

BEYOND THE GOLDEN CIRCLE The further away you explore from the Golden Circle, the smaller the number of travelers.

Additional, off-the-beaten-path adventures from Reykjavík include the Langjökull Glacier. As the second largest glacier in Iceland, expect an endless ocean of powder snow. Experience the “Into the Glacier” adventure with an expert guide and LED

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The enchanting Northern Lights are a top draw for travelers to Iceland.

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lights leading the way—an impressive, thousand-foot long maze of tunnels are found under the icecap. On the way out, hire a driver with the right 4WD vehicle to navigate Kaldidalsvegur, or the Cold Valley. Here you’ll find otherworldly vistas of Iceland’s barren interior and snow-capped mountains. Travel east of Reykjavík, and you’ll find the beautiful Hjalparfoss waterfalls and the hidden Gjainfoss, which is located at the end of a well-marked hiking trail. If you can handle serious potholes and rocky roads, visit my favorite find, Háifoss—Iceland’s fourth highest waterfall which drops hundreds of feet into a deep canyon. Southeast of Reykjavik is the Vestmannaeyjar Islands. A fun day trip by ferry, visit Heimaey, the main island settlement.

From here, take a large zodiac during an adrenalinepacked “Rib Safari” and visit the other islands.

Hike up to the dormant Eldfell volcano for views of the archipelago. Back on the mainland, visit more volcanoes by either walking down a lava tube into dormant Raufarhólshellir or hiking to the edge of a volcano and then, via elevator, dropping down a 400-foot deep shaft to the Thrihnukagigur. Lastly, the southeast region is home to Iceland’s most emblematic sites, such as black-sand beaches and iconic waterfalls like Skógafoss. Plan to horseback ride to the edge of a glacier or spend a day hiking through the vast, ethereal terrain.

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Clockwise from top left: ION City Hotel in Reykjavík; Thingvellir National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site; summer view on Heimaey Vestmannaeyjar; Iceland’s active geysers are a top draw.

THE BLUE LAGOON No visit to Iceland is complete without experiencing the Blue Lagoon, the country’s most famous attraction. An enormous thermal baths complex, the Blue Lagoon is located in a black lava field next to a geothermal plant. The water is heated at 100-degrees Fahrenheit all year long, and the lagoon is full of therapeutic silica mud.

Visit early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid crowds.

Know Before You Go Ignacio’s Tips Bring proper gear and dress in layers so you’re prepped for any kind of weather.

High season is June to August, when Iceland experiences light almost all day long.

Ideal months to visit are either late April through May, September, and early October, when hotel prices are lower, Iceland is less crowded, and you still get plenty of sunlight.

The Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights) can be seen from September through April. Ask your travel advisor to create a custom-tailored itinerary to suit your interests.

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Stay>Iceland Reykjavík’s ION CITY HOTEL opened in 2017 in the city center and features contemporary Icelandic design, warm service, and a superb restaurant, Sumac.

I recommend the fourth-floor Junior Suites, which feature terraces and private saunas.

Venture 45 minutes east of Reykjavík and find ION ADVENTURE. A sister hotel to ION City, the design-forward lodge is located in a moss-covered lava field. Understated décor features locally sourced materials. Sip a cocktail in the Northern Lights Bar and soak in the hotel’s outdoor thermal pool.

A great base camp to explore the southeast is SKÁLAKOT MANOR, a recently opened country lodge located on a working farm. The resident owners have been raising Icelandic horses for seven generations.

Another Reykjavík option is the TOWER SUITES, with eight luxury residences located on the 20th floor of an office building.

For your first or last night in Iceland, stay at the RETREAT AT BLUE LAGOON. Located just 15 minutes from Reykjavík Airport, this serene, ultra-luxury hotel has elegant suites, a 40,000-square-foot spa, and three restaurants.

Trolls and Terrain. Ready to discover Iceland’s natural bounty and mythical lands? Visit the website on the back cover and enter OFFER M18667.

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Opposite, from top: The author, Ignacio Maza, at Eldfell Volcano on Heimaey Island; the Hallgrimskirkja Church in ReykjavĂ­k. This page: Gulfoss Falls promise indelible views.

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78sense U LTof I Mrenewed AT E E X P Eoptimism R I E N C E S is being celebrated in the BVIs. A

RISING UP

The British Virgin Islands are coming back from a year of post-hurricane recovery—and now is the time to visit.

BY CL ARA WOODBRIDGE

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From the window of an airplane, the British Virgin Islands look as lovely as ever. The mountainous green islands are fringed on the edges with powdery white sands that make a perfect gradient from light blue to deep turquoise as it stretches into the Caribbean Sea. This is what the chain of islands—a UK-governed territory comprised of more than 50 masses of pristine land, ranging from the main island of Tortola to tiny dots that bear no formal name at all— have always been. And after a year of hard work, it’s what they are once again.

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As has been the case for more than a few Caribbean islands, the last 14 months have been rough for the BVIs. Hurricane Irma arrived on its shores on September 6, 2017, unleashing 185 mile-per-hour winds and torrential rains.

In less than 24 hours, the Category 5 storm caused more than $3.6 billion worth of damage to its idyllic shores, leaving thousands without power, water, or food. The picture of paradise was tarnished—in place of the beautiful resorts lined with sparkling shores, there was devastation: roofs ripped off, trees felled, boats capsized, marinas destroyed, and entire populations without jobs or homes. But today, high up in the sky, looking down on its shores, the beloved oasis is, miraculously, once again in fine form.

This is a comeback story. But it’s not the kind where everything snaps back to exactly how it was before. It’s the kind of return that is slow and measured and happens in stages. And right now, locals say, the BVIs are ready for what matters most to an area that lists tourism as its numberone industry: visitors. “I’ve gotten so many messages asking, ‘Do you need anything? Money? Donations?’ ” says Jason Noble, owner of the Soggy Dollar Bar on Jose Van Dyke island. “My answer is to come for a vacation and see us, because that’s what we need. We need to get past the storm and move forward—that helps everybody here.”

From left: The Bath, a famous rock formation and snorkeling spot on Virgin Gorda; the British Virgin Islands’ clear waters hug lush green landscapes and white-sand beaches.

“Come for a vacation and SEE US, because that’s what WE NEED. We need to get past the storm and move forward—that HELPS EVERYBODY here.”

-- JASON NOBLE, OWNER OF THE SOGGY DOLLAR BAR

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“All over the British Virgin Islands, LITTLE SEEDS of hope are SPROUTING.” -- S I R R I C H AR D B R AN SO N

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LUCKILY, Noble’s request is an easy one. Though many resorts continue to rebuild, the opportunities for exploring the BVIs are growing, as hotels and private villas once again open their doors, and droves of charter yachts arrive at its marinas.

Island-hopping has long been a national pastime in the BVIs, and The Moorings—a Florida-based sailing company that specializes in charters throughout the Caribbean—is pulling out all the stops to bring the islands back post-hurricane, including bringing a fleet of new yachts and sailboats to its marina on Tortola. It is from the bow of one of these crewed boats that you can truly experience the new British Virgin Islands. While zooming in and out of coves and hopping on and off deserted islands, there’s a sense that truly nothing has changed—not just since before Irma, but for decades.

This is the Caribbean as it once was: unadulterated, unspoiled, and unrivaled.

Of course, every yachting itinerary has to hit the hot spots. But these days, the Baths—Virgin Gorda’s famed rock formations surrounding warm natural pools and caves—aren’t as crowded as they used to be. Neither is Cooper Island, where the beach club bar (famous for its

From left: Eustatia Island Hotel; toasting the secret waterways on Virgin Gorda.

Painkillers, the local cocktail comprised of rum, cream of coconut, and pineapple and orange juices) is usually three or four deep come sunset. The silver lining of Hurricane Irma? The tourists, which usually come in droves this time of year, have yet to fully return. But as winter progresses, and word gets out, that’s all about to change. So, we sail on to more obscure moorings, like uninhabited Ginger Island, whose shores give way to a colorful coral garden called Alice’s Wonderland, where the marine life is brimming with color—but not a single other snorkeler. Then it’s on to the South Drop of Anegada, just 15 miles south of Virgin Gorda, for fishing that’s so good, you hardly need any bait at all to catch a giant tuna. Along the way, the countless coves and impeccable beaches—mostly empty—beg for a pit stop, too.

But there are journeys and there are destinations, and on these fabled isles, a few destinations are worth more than a mere pit stop. Chief among them is Necker Island, British billionaire Sir Richard Branson’s private-island resort due north of Virgin Gorda. Any sailor familiar with these parts knows the mountainous isle well for its Great House, a Balinese-style estate where everyone from Kate Winslet to Barack Obama has stayed. This may be one of the few good reasons for disembarking our yacht and

reclaiming our land legs.

There’s no doubt that Necker Island is looking good these days, but that wasn’t the case a year ago, after Irma left its structures destroyed and buried in sand. Branson was there to witness the devastation in person—nearly everything blew away as he weathered the storm along with his family and staff in the resort’s wine cellar—and spent the months that followed raising funds and rallying for government aid. (He even used his Virgin airplanes and Necker Belle yacht to transport emergency supplies to locals). The results of his hard work today are beyond palpable: Necker’s Great House has risen once again on one of the island’s tallest points, with 11 bedrooms (which is two more than it had before).

More accommodations are slated to open next year, each with its own private pool.

For Branson, and the BVIs at large, however, Necker’s reopening is just one piece of a bigger puzzle. “All over the British Virgin Islands, little seeds of hope are sprouting,” he said earlier this year while rebuilding his resort. And now, it appears everything is coming into full bloom.

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A catamaran sets anchor in front of a deserted island in the BVIs.

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Virgin Territory It’s a long road to recovery, but this island paradise is open for business. Here, four more ways to experience the best of the BVIs right now.

EUSTATIA ISLAND Set in the North Shore of Virgin Gorda, this 35-acre exclusive-use retreat has everything and more: four private beaches, 10 powerboats, a helipad, a clifftop spa villa, and a private chef—all for no more than nine guests at a time.

GUANA ISLAND Spread over 850 lush acres, this private-island resort is home to just 15 suites and three villas. Post-Irma, the resort is new and improved, with its seven beaches and miles of hiking trails restored and a new eco-friendly infrastructure.

OIL NUT BAY The villas at this 300-acre resort on Virgin Gorda are among the BVIs’ most over-the-top. Think Olympic-size pools, garden showers, and panoramic ocean views from every room.

BAYHOUSE This exclusive-use estate on a secluded cliff above one of Virgin Gorda’s private beaches comes with stunning 180-degree vistas. Among the many luxuries the three-bedroom retreat offers, a favorite is the infinity-edge pool that seems to stretch all the way to sea.

Island Hop The Caribbean is calling. Enter OFFER M18673 to the website on the back cover and discover the best of the BVIs.

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the Resource

Your guide to this issue’s featured destinations. Here’s where to sleep, dine, and discover.

Italy (La Dolce Vida, page 58) STAY Borgo Eganzia Hotel Borgo Egnazia is located in the heart of Puglia, immersed among the ancient olive groves of the Itria valley and just steps from the Adriatic sea. Make time for a treatment at VAIR Spa, inspired by the soul of Southern Italy, while the resort’s Due Camini restaurant serves “auteur cuisine” that celebrates Apulian tradition. Guests can access San Domenico Golf Club, located between the city of Egnathia and the Savelletri marina. The course is flanked by the rocky lining of the Adriatic Sea to the east and the vegetable fields and olive groves to the west.

BON VOYAGE>CRUISE Seabourn Seabourn’s “Gems of Italy and Spain” cruise showcases the best of the Mediterranean, including a stop in Naples in 86

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Southern Italy. Shore excursions in Naples take guests to the heart of the city, where you’ll shop boutiques and dine at quaint local cafés.

DON’T MISS La Notte della Taranta Music Festival During two weeks in August, international musicians, DJs, and bands descend on Salento farmhouses to host concerts and dance parties. The event culminates in the town of Melpignano and attracts both major acts and local musicians.

Lecce and Basilica di Santa Croce This charming town is the birthplace of the unique Lecce Baroque architecture. The Basilica di Santa Croce is believed to have taken 200 years to complete and is the ultimate example of the distinct architectural style.

Iceland

(Fire and Ice, page 68) STAY ION Adventure Hotel Located 45 minutes east of Reykjavík, ION Adventure is a sister property to ION City, and the design-forward lodge is located in a lava field. ION’s location by the Golden Circle makes it the perfect base to explore Iceland’s history and unique landscapes.

BON VOYAGE>CRUISE Lindblad Expeditions Board Lindblad Expeditions’ National Geographic Explorer and discover Svalbard, Iceland, and Greenland. Ports include Oslo and Reykjavík. Explore Iceland’s urban hot spot, lined with incredible restaurants, night clubs, and local boutiques.

DON’T MISS Harpa Concert Hall Most trips to Iceland are bookended by touring Reykjavík, where a visit to the Harpa Concert Hall is a must. One of Iceland’s most distinguished landmarks, the conference hall and concert center showcases a distinctive colored glass facade inspired by the basalt landscape of Iceland and is located near the harbor.

Thingvellir National Park Located in the famous Golden Circle, this UNESCO World Heritage Site was originally the first parliament in the world.

Tour Þingvellir Church and view the ruins of old stone shelters.

The park sits in a valley forged by two tectonic plates, with rocky cliffs and huge fissures like the Almannagjá fault.

The Blue Lagoon This peaceful and famous landmark is located in a lava field near Grindavík on the Reykjanes Peninsula, and is just 15 minutes from Reykjavík Airport. Travelers flock to its geothermal waters for various healing minerals and to witness the ethereal views from the lagoon.

Eustatia Island Located on the north shore of Virgin Gorda, this 35-acre exclusive-use retreat hosts just nine guests and has it all: four private beaches, 10 powerboats, a helipad, a clifftop spa villa, and a private chef.

BON VOYAGE>CRUISE The Moorings This Florida-based sailing company specializes in charters throughout the Caribbean and has helped bring the islands back post-hurricane. It brought a fleet of new yachts and sailboats to its marina on Tortola. Charter a private yacht and see the BVIs by boat, where island hopping is your only glorious demand of the day.

British Virgin Islands (Rising Up, page 78)

STAY Necker Island Sir Richard Branson’s famous private island retreat, Necker Island has been restored after Hurricane Irma. Expect barefoot luxury at its finest; the Balinese-style estate has hosted the likes of Kate Winslet and Barack Obama. After being rebuilt, Necker’s Great House now has 11 bedrooms (two more than it had before), and more accommodations are slated to open soon, each with its own private pool.

DON’T MISS Snorkeling The Baths You can’t travel to the BVIs without experiencing The Baths, Virgin Gorda’s famed rock formations surrounding warm natural pools and caves. It’s one of the area’s most desired spots to snorkel and dive among brilliant tropical fish and large marine life.

Soggy Dollar Bar Located on Jose Van Dyke island, this famous bar is the spot for sunset cocktails. Founded in the 1970s, this throwback in time captures the essence of Caribbean life, where rum cocktails (the famous Painkiller was invented here) are made to celebrate authentic island life. The outpost is located on White Bay, a serene swimming spot.

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the most exclusive address at sea

Behind the doors of the 4,443-square-foot Regent Suite is an impeccably designed palace that is enveloped in an immaculate view of the horizon — the same one as your ship’s captain. Unwind in your private Jacuzzi while your attentive Butler pours you a glass of Veuve Clicquot, delight in body treatments by Canyon Ranch® spa in your personal in-suite spa and stretch out in your hand-crafted Savoir bed.

When you do feel inclined to explore ashore, a private car and guide await you in port.

T H E M O S T I N C L U S I V E LU X U RY E X P E R I E N C E T M

FOR VOYAGES AND RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR

TRAVEL ELEVATED

Beyond

VACATIONS

p. 90

HOTELS & RESORTS

p. 92

CRUISES p. 95

BAHAMIAN RHAPSODY

The new SLS Baha Mar in Nassau, Bahamas. Page 94

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VAC AT I O N S INSIDER

I TA LY, G R E E N L A N D + ALASKA

As experts in luxury travel for more than 50 years, Abercrombie & Kent offers unforgettable travel experiences in over 100 countries on all seven continents. From small-group journeys and luxury expedition cruises to personally customized, privately guided, tailor-made itineraries, all A&K journeys are backed by an unmatched network of more than 55 local offices around the globe.

ITALY CRUISE: HIDDEN TREASURES FROM FLORENCE TO VENICE

Embark on an all-encompassing A&K voyage along nearly the entire navigable coast of Italy. Begin with two days in Florence before cruising aboard the brand-new Le Bougainville to Rome, Venice, Sicily, and then to the Aeolian Islands, Puglia’s Gargano National Park, UNESCO-protected Urbino, and little-known Bastia on French Corsica.

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THE NORTHWEST PASSAGE: FROM GREENLAND TO THE BERING SEA

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23-NIGHT VACATION INCLUDES: Private balcony with every stateroom and suite; shore excursions led by expert expedition team; butler service on suite accommodations; all-inclusive cruising; all meals, house drinks, gratuities, port charges and taxes; complimentary room service and breakfast in bed; pre-cruise hotel stay and sightseeing; airport meet and greet and transfers; complimentary onboard Wi-Fi; complimentary gear and equipment.

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CALL OR VISIT THE WEBSITE, FOUND ON THE BACK COVER, FOR ADDITIONAL INFO + LATEST VACATION OFFERS. Amenities may vary by category and travel date. Restrictions, terms and conditions may apply.

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VAC AT I O N S INSIDER

SCOTL AND + FRANCE

Belmond’s global collection of hotels, safari lodges, trains and river cruises brings together some of the world’s most thrilling journeys and destinations. As the ultimate travel curator and connoisseur, Belmond ensures an exceptional luxury experience along with unrivaled service.

BELMOND ROYAL SCOTSMAN

Enjoy the ultimate Clans, Castles and Isles experience on a 720-mile journey, traveling through some of the country’s finest scenery.

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5-NIGHT VACATION INCLUDES: Luxury accommodation aboard Belmond Royal Scotsman; all meals and beverages, including alcoholic drinks; traditional entertainment on board; 24-hour steward service; and options for excursions, including a walk to the soft white beaches of the famous Silver Sands of Morar, joining the Highlander to explore Glenfinnan, savoring Glen Nevis on a hike to the Steall Waterfalls, and crossing to the Isle of Mull to Duart Castle.

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6-NIGHT VACATION INCLUDES: Luxury accommodation aboard Belmond Pivoine; table d’hôte meals and complimentary beverages; select excursions including exclusive use of onboard bicycles; private guide and return transfer from Paris.

Select travel dates through 10/26/19 OFFER 1328858

CALL OR VISIT THE WEBSITE, FOUND ON THE BACK COVER, FOR ADDITIONAL INFO + LATEST VACATION OFFERS. Amenities may vary by category and travel date. Restrictions, terms and conditions may apply.

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H OT E L S & R E S O R T S INSIDER

Hotels & Resorts Collection

ASIA

From Alaska to Asia, the Hotels & Resorts Collection delivers insider access, peace of mind, and unforgettable memories. Exclusive privileges include complimentary breakfasts and resort credits towards spa treatments and available room upgrades. Receive additional elevated benefits with the exclusive suite privileges at participating properties worldwide.

Conrad Osaka

Andaz Singapore

ANDAZ SINGAPORE

Singapore Situated at the crossroads of the Kampong Glam, Little India, Bras Basah Bugis, and Marina Bay cultural districts, Andaz Singapore celebrates the rich culture of Singapore and inspires guests to experience the city with a unique perspective.

• Full American breakfast at Alley on 25 for each guest daily • $100 food and beverage credit (per room, per stay) • Welcome amenity • Upgrade, early check-in and late check out, subject to availability OFFER 1326448

Raffles Hotel Le Royal

CONRAD OSAKA

Osaka, Japan For those who journey with purpose, Conrad Osaka delivers an inspired experience by offering service that is intuitively tailored to each individual and connects to the local Osaka culture. Exuding modern chic style infused with traditional Japanese elements, Conrad Osaka celebrates impressive views of the Osaka cityscape from all guestrooms and public areas.

• Full American breakfast at Atmos for each guest daily • $50 food and beverage or spa credit (per room, per stay) • Welcome amenity • Upgrade, early check-in and late check-out, subject to availability OFFER 1325979

RAFFLES HOTEL LE ROYAL

Phnom Penh, Cambodia Raffles Hotel Le Royal is located in the heart of Phnom Penh. The property dates back to the 1920s and is distinguished by its blend of Khmer, art deco, and French colonial architecture.

• Full or continental breakfast at Café Monivong or two guests daily • 60-minute massage for two, once during stay • Special VIP welcome upon arrival • 30-minute hotel heritage tour, on request • Upgrade, early check-in and late check-out,

subject to availability • $100 hotel credit, once during stay (two-night minimum stay in select categories) OFFER 1326447

CALL FOR BEST PRICES FOR PREFERRED TRAVEL DATES, OR VISIT THE WEBSITE FOUND ON THE BACK COVER, FOR MORE INFORMATION AND LATEST VACATION OFFERS. 92

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H OT E L S & R E S O R T S INSIDER

Hotels & Resorts Collection

ASIA & CARIBBEAN

From Canada to the Caribbean, the Hotels & Resorts Collection delivers exclusive suite privileges at more than 1100 participating global properties. At the Grand Hyatt Tokyo authentic cuisine and Japanese traditions are celebrated, while the Paradisus Palma Real Resort serves sea-to-table fare.

GRAND HYATT TOKYO

Tokyo, Japan Located in the heart of Tokyo’s international district, Grand Hyatt Tokyo is a dynamic lifestyle destination hotel with 387 luxuriously appointed rooms and suites, an exclusive Grand Club lounge, 10 unique restaurants and bars, and a serene spa. Its central location provides direct access to Roppongi Hills, which features 200 shops and restaurants, a cinema, art museum, and an observatory with stunning views of Tokyo.

• Buffet Breakfast at The French Kitchen for each guest daily • ¥10,000 food & beverage credit, per room, per stay • Japanese Tea Presentation Gift • Upgrade, subject to availability OFFER 1326445

PARADISUS PALMA REAL RESORT

Punta Cana, Dominican Republic Paradisus Palma Real offers an idyllic, all-inclusive setting: turquoise waters, white sand beaches, beautiful fountains, and lush, exotic gardens. An enclave exclusively for adults, Royal Service is the epitome of elegance and personalized service. An authentic oasis of tranquility, the Oriental Garden Spa will transport you to a haven of calm and relaxation. Come evening, dine at Passion by Martín Berasategui Restaurant, winner of 8 Michelin stars and helmed by an uber- talented Spanish chef.

• • •

50-minute massage per person, per stay Welcome amenity Upgrade, early check-in and late check-out, subject to availability

OFFER 1299561

CALL FOR BEST PRICE FOR PREFERRED TRAVEL DATES, OR VISIT THE WEBSITE FOUND ON THE BACK COVER, FOR MORE INFORMATION AND LATEST VACATION OFFERS. U LT I M AT E E X P E R I E N C E S

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Hotels & Resorts Collection

CARIBBEAN + THE BAHAMAS

From Botswana to The Bahamas, access exclusive suite privileges at the finest properties in the world with the Hotels & Resorts Collection. With island escapes including Belmond La Samanna, SLS Baha Mar, and Cuisinart Golf Resort & Spa, sea-inspired escapes are uniquely elevated.

SLS Baha Mar

Belmond La Samanna

BELMOND LA SAMANNA

Marigot, St. Martin Timeless elegance, and a life well lived—this is the essence of Belmond La Samanna. It’s been named one of the Caribbean’s most elegant resorts for years, and this authentic French Caribbean hideaway combines classic luxury with natural extravagance.

• Buffet breakfast for each guest daily • Fruit basket • Lunch for two, once during stay (excluding drinks) • Wine and cheese tasting (five-night minimum stay required) • Upgrade, early check-in and late check out, subject to availability

CuisinArt Golf Resort & Spa

SLS BAHA MAR

CUISINART GOLF RESORT & SPA

Nassau, Bahamas SLS Hotels takes its standards of style, luxury, and service to an exotic new locale with SLS Baha Mar. Combining a five-star hotel experience with elements of creativity and community, SLS Baha Mar is an irresistible Bahamian retreat for discerning global travelers. The resort features sbe’s stellar service. Expect creative food, stylish cocktails, and energetic nightlife.

Rendezvous Bay, Anguilla Located on the tranquil island of Anguilla in the Caribbean, CuisinArt Golf Resort & Spa offers guests spacious luxurious accommodations, uncompromising quality, and exemplary service.

Inspired by the style of the Mediterranean, CuisinArt’s whitewashed rooms and suites are surrounded by lush gardens. All guests enjoy full breakfast daily.

• Continental breakfast for two daily (also available through room service) • $100 resort credit, per room, per stay • Upgrade, early check-in and late check-out, subject to availability

• 50-minute massage, per room, per stay • Upgrade, early check-in and late check-out, subject to availability OFFER 1324369

OFFER 1326450

OFFER 1326449

CALL FOR BEST PRICE FOR PREFERRED TRAVEL DATES, OR VISIT THE WEBSITE FOUND ON THE BACK COVER, FOR MORE INFORMATION AND LATEST VACATION OFFERS. 94

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CRUISE INSIDER

F R E N C H P O LY N E S I A

Paul Gauguin Cruises celebrates the best in French Polynesian culture. This all-inclusive, five-plus star experience offers the highest levels of service, with a crew-to-guest ratio of 1 to 1.5 and no more than 332 guests on the intimate m/s Paul Gauguin. An extensive selection of amenities, facilities, and unique activities maximizes time aboard.

PLUS: THIRD GUEST IN THE SAME STATEROOM SAILS FOR $125 PER NIGHT OR THIRD GUEST 17 AND UNDER IN THE SAME STATEROOM SAILS FREE!*

TAHITI & SOCIETY ISLANDS

m/s Paul Gauguin

7-NIGHT ITINERARY: Pape‘ete, Huahine, Taha‘a (Motu Mahana), Bora Bora (overnight), Mo‘orea (overnight), Pape‘ete (overnight) Select travel dates through 12/21/19 • Up to $400 shipboard credit per couple • Cocktail reception and experienced host on select sailings OFFER M17348

CALL OR VISIT THE WEBSITE, FOUND ON THE BACK COVER, FOR ADDITIONAL INFO + LATEST VACATION OFFERS. *Restrictions apply. | Amenities may vary by category and travel date. Additional restrictions, terms and conditions may apply. Ship’s Registry: Bahamas.

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POSTCARD FROM ...

ICELAND

,

with Sigurlaug Sverrisdóttir, founder of ION Hotels

FAVORITE DESIGN STORE: I always prefer to shop locally everywhere I go. In Iceland, my favorites are Epal, where I find everything Scandinavian and Icelandic for my home.

In Reykjavík, I find trendy things by young Icelandic designers at Akkúrat, and elegant, one-of-a-kind clothing at Steinunn.

TOP TABLES: ÓX is a new speakeasy restaurant in Reykjavík. Of course, Sumac at ION City Hotel is great, and for drinks I go to Port 9 or Snaps.

FAVORITE FLY-FISHING SPOT: My absolute favorite salmon river is Thvera in Iceland. It has such beautiful nature and surroundings that make you feel extremely grateful for life!

My favorite pool spot would be EfraRauðaberg, where you feel like the only person in the world.

I NEVER TRAVEL WITHOUT: My laptop and pillow. Even if I’m headed to ski touring in Svalbard or fly-fishing in Iceland, my Mac is always by my side.

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BEST LOCAL MARKET: The food hall at Hlemmur Mathöll.

WHEN I’M NOT WORKING, YOU’LL FIND ME: Outdoors. Skiing, fly-fishing, biking, hiking, running, paddle-boarding or doing yoga. Afterwards, I’ll enjoy a nice dinner and a glass of wine with my friends.

FAVORITE SKI RUN: Hesturinn, located right above Klaengsholl ski lodge on the Troll Peninsula in Iceland. It’s fantastic as the last run during a heli-ski day or an early morning ski touring exercise while waiting for the weather to clear.

I’D MOST LIKE TO HAVE DINNER WITH: Winston Churchill, as we have the same desire for Champagne! Ian Schrager would be the preferred person in current life.

From top: Sigurlang Sverrisdóttir in Iceland; the ION Adventure Hotel is located 11 miles from the UNESCOlisted Thingvellir National Park.

BUCKET-LIST TRIP: To cross Greenland on skis.

MY CURRENT OBSESSION: “Stuffocation!” I’ve been trying to simplify my life by letting go of certain things.

When you participate in many sports, you tend to collect too many things that complicate your life. Now I use the same clothing for as many of the sports as I can and have a rule that I need to give away one piece for every new piece that I buy.

NEVER THOUGHT I WOULD …

Build three hotels before I turn 50.

TRAVEL. EXPERIENCE. LEARN. REPEAT.

FIRE + ICE PAGE 68

Iceland