Ultimate Experiences September 2019

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NORTH + SOUTH

NEW ZEALAND WILD AT HEART

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Extraordinary, Reimagined WE ARE OFTEN ASKED ABOUT THE WORLD’S “HIDDEN GEMS.” It’s our job and passion to know those tucked-away corners of the globe that make you feel as if you’ve stumbled across something truly special. During our extensive research of such unforgettable locales, we’ve discovered that the most sought-after experiences are often defined by the unexpected. This can mean a secluded snorkeling cove that reveals a rare manta ray, a cooking school in Tuscany that serves olive oil handcrafted by its owners, or a brand-new suite on an expedition ship that is perfectly angled to the sun’s evening farewell over the sea’s horizon.

Off-the-beaten path is being redefined these days. It’s not just the road less traveled that beckons, but ultimate adventures, we’ve discovered, are anchored in destinations ripe for elevated experiences. Our job is to handcraft bespoke itineraries that help you live like a local and leave uniquely inspired. We also hold the keys to a world of exclusive amenities only accessed via our exceptional global network.

We hope that within these pages you discover new reason to keep searching for those rare, wild, and extraordinary places that foster a personal shift in perspective.

HAPPY TRAVELS

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Raising THE Bar Bali’s Alila Villas Uluwatu elevates the room with a view.

“WHERE BEST TO WATCH THE SUNSET?” is one of the most often asked questions when wanderlust strikes. At Bali’s Alila Villas Uluwatu, the Sunset Cabana Bar is positioned as one of the top luxury outposts to watch the sun curtsy over the Indian Ocean. Decidedly fusing form and function while also blending in with Uluwatu’s stunning natural environment, the resort’s interior design is as notable as the architecture. Seamlessly bringing the outdoors in and designed by Singapore architectural firm WOHA, this trend-setting modern Bali hotel should rapidly climb your travel wish list. Perched 330 feet above the sea on limestone cliffs, the seductive bar serves unique artisanal cocktails to the sound of ocean waves below and a brilliant Uluwatu sunset. Yes, please!

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ON THE COVER Mackenzie, New Zealand, home to Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park, Lake Tekapo and the Tasman Glacier.

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TALE OF TWO ISLANDS

THE GRAY ZONE

WILD BORNEO

While navigating New Zealand’s North and South islands, discover a country rich in heritage and hospitality.

Celebrity photographer Gray Malin reveals his obsession with travel and just what it takes to get that perfect shot.

Searching for raw nature—and raw truth—amid the iconic fauna of this Southeast Asian island.

BY IGNACIO MAZA

BY ERIN LENTZ

BY RICHARD BARNES

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Photographed by Rach Stewart Photography.

CONTENTS

Go Now 36 DESTINATION

GPS Indelible adventures in Asia, Sardinia, and East Africa.

44 POINT OF VIEW The Top 5 adrenaline pumps of South Africa; a deep dive into Belize.

48 ABROAD & BEYOND

Crystal Cruises unveils its first-ever expedition ship; the finest escapes in the Caribbean; navigate the finest of French Polynesia with Lindblad Expeditions.

56 BESPOKE Champagne and caviar aboard Oceania’s culinary trips of the tongue; farm to fork and distillery to dram in the heart of Ireland.

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THE SUITE LIFE

Exclusive privileges promise elevated escapes when booking a suite or villa for two or more nights.

14 ROOM KEY Checking in to the Ranch at Rock Creek, Hotel Esencia, Equinox Hotel, and Hotel de La Ville.

18 CRUISE GPS Exploring Alaska with Regent Seven Seas

Cruises® ; aboard the new Celebrity Flora in the Galápagos Islands; Silversea’s tasty new .S.A.L.T. program.

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28 LIVE LIKE A LOCAL

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Explore Nashville with Rock ‘n Roll Hall of Fame inductee John Oates.

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GAME CHANGER

Into Antarctica with Abercrombie & Kent; the best of Botswana with Ker & Downey.

6 EDITOR’S LETTER CONTRIBUTORS

85 BEYOND Travel, Elevated: Cruises, Vacations, and the Hotels & Resorts Collection.

96 POSTCARD

FROM… The Sea, with Regent Seven Seas Cruises® Captain Serena Melani, the first female to captain a brand new cruise ship.

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EDITOR’S

LETTER

Ultimate Experiences September 2019

Gearing up for underwater exploration off the coast of Belize.

Dive In “ARE WE REALLY DOING THIS?” I SAY TO MY DIVE BUDDY. I scan the kaleidoscope of ocean blues that ring the famous Great Blue Hole dive site while I strap on my fins. We’re 60 miles off the coast of Belize, and I’m 10 minutes from checking off a major bucket-list experience: diving with a school of hammerheads 130 feet beneath the surface, amidst an ethereal maze of stalactites.

With this issue we celebrate ultimate adventures and hidden gems, both of which I discovered in Belize.

Editor at Large Ignacio Maza takes us to New Zealand’s rugged coasts and refined resorts for our cover story, while celebrity photographer Gray Malin reveals his ultimate adventure—framing aerial views of the world’s most iconic beaches and destinations. Additionally, writer Richard Barnes treks into the lush jungles of Borneo, where wildlife viewing is often the only demand of the day.

What defines your ultimate adventure? My hope is that while turning these pages, you find intellectual fuel to get out there—whether your travel inspiration is adrenaline inducing, culturally rich, or defined by the tastes and dining traditions of a vibrant, far-flung community. Whatever your dream trip entails, here’s to abandoning inhibition, and diving into the unknown.

ENJOY THE ISSUE!

ERIN LENTZ, EDITOR IN CHIEF

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CONTRIBUTORS EDITORIAL EDITOR IN CHIEF Erin Lentz CREATIVE DIRECTOR Karrie Sims EDITOR AT LARGE Ignacio Maza PHOTO DIRECTOR Stefanie Michejda COPY EDITOR Sarah Taylor Asquith

CONTRIBUTORS Richard Barnes, Amiee White Beazley, Jackie Caradonio, Meredith Diers, Gray Malin, Ignacio Maza, Stefanie Michejda, Jen Murphy.

2019 TAG Custom Publishing LLC. Ultimate Experiences Magazine is published four times a year on behalf of Signature Travel Network. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part of any material in this publication without publisher’s permission is strictly prohibited. For copies, customer service, or to exhibit or distribute at a business, please inquire at info@tagmediaaspen.com.

TAG MEDIA 418 East Cooper St. Suite 207B Aspen, CO 81611

Signature Travel Network is comprised of top-tier travel agencies that share one common objective: serve the personal needs of the discerning traveler. The network’s buying power translates into the ability to leverage worldwide partnerships to provide you the best value and ensure the best service before and during your travels.

This brochure has been produced for the exclusive use of Signature Travel Network member agencies only. All efforts have been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained herein. Should an error occur, we reserve the right to correct it. Print Date: September 2019.

Richard Barnes WRITER & PHOTOGRAPHER

Jackie Caradonio WRITER & PHOTOGRAPHER

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With nearly 40 years experience in media, Richard Barnes is currently Editor in Chief for all Cleverdis group publications, including ITB Berlin News, ITB China News, ITB Asia News, IFTM Daily (Paris), and the quarterly Hotel and Tourism SMARTreport.

He has been living near Nice, France, for more than 30 years and travels extensively for work and leisure.

Jackie Caradonio has rappelled down cliffs in the Bugaboo Mountains, tracked gorillas in the Republic of Congo, and run marathons in the savannas of Kenya. She’s written about her exploits for everyone from Travel + Leisure and Town & Country to Robb Report. She lives in Manhattan’s Washington Heights neighborhood with her husband and two fur babies, Phil and Angelica.

BUCKET-LIST TRIP: Antarctica.

I’D MOST LIKE TO PHOTOGRAPH: The earth from afar.

NEVER THOUGHT I’D SEE: Wild orangutans close up in the rainforests of Borneo.

BUCKET-LIST TRIP: The Makgadikgadi Salt Pans in Botswana. There’s something about the virtual absence of life in this vast and desolate region that calls to me.

FAVORITE TRAVEL PHOTO TAKEN THIS YEAR: A photo of a woman named Um Mohammad in her home just outside of Wadi Rum, Jordan. It was a rare occasion for someone like me, a Western woman, to be invited into the private abode of a local in this part of the world.

I’D MOST LIKE TO INTERVIEW: Margaret Atwood. Genius!

Ignacio Maza WRITER p. 62 Ignacio Maza is Signature Travel Network’s Executive Vice President, responsible for the network’s luxury business development. He’s visited more than 100 countries on seven continents, and has worked in the travel industry for 40 years. His articles and insights have appeared in The New York Times, AFAR, Luxury Travel Advisor, ASTA Advisor, and more.

DESTINATION TOPPING MY TRAVEL WISH LIST: Uzbekistan, especially the ancient cities of Samarkand and Bukhara.

MOST SURPRISING EXPERIENCE ON MY TRAVELS THIS YEAR: A private visit to the Steinhof church, outside Vienna. Having his Art Nouveau masterpiece to myself was a dream come true.

NEVER TRAVEL WITHOUT: My Kindle. It saves me from having to carry books with me!

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SEVEN SOUTH SUITES SEVEN SOUTH SUITES A T T H E R I T Z - C A R LT O N , G R A N D C A Y M A N A T T H E R I T Z - C A R LT O N , G R A N D C A Y M A N

HOME REIMAGINED, IN THE HEART OF THE CARIBBEAN HOME REIMAGINED, IN THE HEART OF THE CARIBBEAN

Enliven your senses through panoramic views of Seven Mile Beach and unique experiences at the Enliven your senses through panoramic views of the Seven Mile Beach suite and unique experiences at the top luxury resort in the Cayman Islands. Discover most luxurious in the Caribbean enriched topby luxury resort in the Cayman Islands. the most luxurious in the Caribbean enriched the legendary Ritz-Carlton service Discover and first-class amenities thatsuite will delight and inspire you. by the legendary Ritz-Carlton service and first-class amenities that will delight and inspire you.

For more information, contact your Travel Advisor.

For more information, contact your Travel Advisor.

SUITE TALK

Rooms with a view Page 10

INTO THE WILD The pulse of Alaska Page 18

SALT & SEA Culinary cruising Page 24

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ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES

September 2019

THE SUITE LIFE . ROOM KEY . CRUISE GPS . LIVE LIKE A LOCAL . GAME CHANGER >

Above: A Sally Lightfoot Crab explores the Gรกlapagos Islands.

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THE SUITE LIFE

Belmond Palacio Nazarenas (Cusco, Peru) The former private home of conquistador Mancio Serra de Leguizamo, the acclaimed Belmond Palacio Nazarenas features the building’s original Incan foundations of stonework, colonial frescos, and goldframed paintings collected by nuns.

Built around a cloistered courtyard, expect a centuries-old octagonal stone fountain with Incan-style running water channels as well as the hotel’s contemporary Art Lima collection.

SUITE TALK: Fusing elegance and Peruvian accents, each suite exudes tranquility. The Signature Suites offer a spacious sitting area, private terrace, and 24-hour butler service.

The Colonial Arch Suite features an original arch as its centerpiece, while the Nazarenas Suite boasts original, handcrafted ceilings and a stellar view of Cusco’s Nazarenas Square from its private terrace.

Vacations with Virtue Experience exclusive amenities at these coveted retreats.

PLAN TO STAY IN A SUITE OR VILLA FOR TWO OR MORE NIGHTS, AND V-VIP ACCESS AWAITS. Exclusive Suite & Villa Privileges ensure over-the-top experiences, with spacious accommodations, stellar service, and special benefits worth up to $500 per stay at more than 500 participating global properties. Add this to the incredible amenity offerings of the Hotel & Resorts Collection, which include daily breakfast, complimentary WiFi, and an additional value-conscious benefit (as well as early check-in and late check-out whenever possible), and your next sojourn is primed for elevated rest and relaxation.

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NOT TO MISS: Inspired by Incan and Andean culture, the Hypnôze Spa sources in-house organic products that include indigenous healing ingredients. The hotel also offers daily Peruvian-style afternoon tea in the garden. Enjoy a full breakfast at Senzo Restaurant and refuel with a selection of homemade local snacks and muña tea, also known as Andean mint. It’s famous for combating digestion and altitude sickness. Make time for the hotel tour, which explores the history of the site as well as the paintings in the Our Lady of the Assumption Chapel, located right next to the hotel entrance.

EXCLUSIVE PRIVILEGES: $100 spa credit, once during stay; complimentary WiFi, upgrade, early check-in and late check-out (subject to availability).

SUITE & VILLA PRIVILEGE: One-way airport transfer (minimum two-night stay in select categories).

Fairmont Le Château Frontenac (Quebec City, Canada) With stunning views of the St. Lawrence River and architecture of the Old Quebec UNESCO World Heritage Site, the hotel’s restoration blends an enchanting history with modern luxury. Witness a 300-year-old stone bearing the Cross of Malta in the hotel’s inner courtyard, while European royalty has visited often throughout its centuries-old history.

SUITE TALK: Spacious rooms and suites feature clean lines and classic-modern décor. All suites are at least 1,000 square feet and have magnificent river views.

The Charles de Gaulle Suite features emerald accents and commemorates the general’s attendance at the 1967 banquet held on property by the Quebec government.

NOT TO MISS: The history and architecture of the hotel is reason enough to visit. Take a guided tour of the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac and learn of famous guests, historic events, and architectural changes made in recent years. Alternatively, opt for a day trip to Île d’Orléans, an island located

in the middle of the St. Lawrence River. Sample local wine, cider, cheese, chocolate, and apple products.

EXCLUSIVE PRIVILEGES: Buffet breakfast for two daily, $100 CAD food credit per room, per stay; welcome amenity; complimentary WiFi; upgrade; early check-in and late check-out (subject to availability).

SUITE & VILLA PRIVILEGE: $100 food and beverage credit, once per stay (minimum two-night stay in select categories).

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THE SUITE LIFE

Gran Meliá Colón (Seville, Spain)

Located in the historical, cultural, commercial, and financial heart of Seville, Gran Meliá Colón contrasts style and contemporary touches with historical features. Attracting generations of bullfighters from around the globe, the hotel is a major city landmark. In addition to luxe accommodations and friendly staff, the hotel offers a lauded wellness center, with a sauna, Turkish bath, therapeutic showers, a sun terrace, and plunge pool.

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SUITE TALK: All suites are outward facing, with beautiful city center views.

The Penthouse Suite’s private terrace is equipped with lounge chairs, a sun day bed, and hydro massage tub. All suites receive the personalized RedLevel service and lounge access, which includes 24-hour porter service, open bar and snacks, and exceptional concierges.

NOT TO MISS: In a city full of history, culture, and art, visit the famous Gothicstyle Seville Cathedral and its Giralda Tower. The UNESCO World Heritage site is the largest among Gothic cathedrals.

Venture into the Alcázar of Seville, one of the oldest royal palaces in Europe. Still

operable today, it showcases the city’s unique cultural mix. And don’t miss Barrio de Santa Cruz, one of the most authentic parts of Seville. A free walking tour reveals anecdotal stories of its storied narrow streets.

EXCLUSIVE PRIVILEGES: Full buffet breakfast for each guest daily at Majestic Restaurant; tapas dinner for two at Burladero Restaurant, once during stay, upgrade, early check-in and late check-out (subject to availability).

SUITE & VILLA PRIVILEGE: $100 food and beverage credit, once per stay (minimum two-night stay in select categories).

THE SUITE LIFE

Wymara Resort and Villas, Turks and Caicos (Providenciales, Turks and Caicos) Wymara Resort and Villas welcomes guests into an open-air lobby that leads directly to an infinity pool with stunning views of Grace Bay. Designed with clean lines and airy rooms, fresh-from-the-sea dining experiences include Stelle and Zest restaurants, both of which offer fresh regional cuisine in indoor-outdoor settings.

SUITE TALK: Four- and five-bedroom villas are just minutes from the main resort and feature an infinity pool, courtyard waterfall pool, and deck platform with ocean access. Guests can also opt for a private chef to prepare in-residence meals.

NOT TO MISS: Clear, turquoise water begs for snorkeling and scuba diving among coral reef systems. Glimpse turtles, rays, and countless colorful fish, or rent a private boat or yacht for a day trip or sunset cruise.

EXCLUSIVE PRIVILEGES $100 food and beverage credit, per room, per stay; welcome bottle of wine, early check-in and late check-out (subject to availability).

Want more of the Hotels & Resorts Collection?

Enter OFFER M19810 on the website found on the back cover.

The Brando (Tahiti, French Polynesia) The Brando graces the private island of Teti’aroa and is nestled among a ring of coral islands surrounding a three-mile-wide atoll. Featuring 35 private villas on white-sand beaches, the area is home to sea turtles, manta rays, and exotic birds. The all-inclusive property is equipped with sea-water air conditioning and photovoltaic solar panels to provide over half the resort’s energy needs.

SUITE TALK: Designed to reflect Polynesian lifestyle and traditions, villas are surrounded by exquisite scenery. Each has its own white-sand beach, plunge pool, chic furnishings, and large windows, while ensuite bathrooms feature private outdoor bathtubs.

NOT TO MISS: The Varua Te Ora Polynesian Spa hugs a lily-covered pond and spa suites frame views of an islet covered in vegetation. Try the traditional Taurumi massage, rooted in ancient Polynesian culture and spiritual practices. Afterward, navigate the lagoon via stand-up paddleboards.

EXCLUSIVE PRIVILEGES: €100 resort credit per villa, per stay; early check-in and late check-out (subject to availability).

SUITE & VILLA PRIVILEGE: €100 hotel credit, once per stay (minimum two-night stay in select categories).

SUITE & VILLA PRIVILEGE: One-way airport transfer (minimum two-night stay in select categories).

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ROOM KEY

CHECKING IN Visit the Ranch at Rock Creek, and Montana’s western spirit will stoke family fun. BY JEN MURPHY

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Opposite: The main dining room calls for family affairs and special events. From top: Days are spent exploring nature via horseback; cozy cabins allow for privacy yet are ideal for family escapes.

Unplug. Serenity. Repeat.

From rodeos and wrangling to barn dances and bonfires, the Ranch at Rock Creek makes it easy to put down your iPhone and channel your inner cowboy and cowgirl. While there are plenty of bonding moments, the Ranch also encourages guests to find time to themselves. This might mean father and son go fly fishing while mom follows up her morning mountain bike ride with a soak at the Granite Spa. Or grandma goes to yoga while grandpa hits the sporting clays. While mom and dad enjoy quiet time by their cabin’s fireplace or on a romantic hike, kids can go off on wildlife-spotting excursions or survival-skills outings with the Little Grizzlies, a program for children ages 4 to 12 that combines outdoor education with adventure. And if the adults want to enjoy a tasting menu in Granite Lodge, the kids can join their Little Grizzlies counselors for their own special meal of barbecue chicken and mac n’ cheese in the Silver Dollar Saloon. The evening campfire acts like a magnet, drawing families back together for s’mores and cowboy stories.

queen pullout bed, the remodeled stables in the ranch’s 19th-century barn create the perfect crash pad for kids. The hayloft and tack room have also been re-imagined into stylish Western digs, making the entire barn a great option for families or friends traveling with tykes. Parents who want to give their kids a camping experience without sacrificing comfort can book family canvas cabins. Perched creekside, the cabins feature two rooms separated by a curtain and can comfortably sleep two adults and up to three kids.

Haute Hospitality

The Spirit of Play

Located in Missoula, Montana, this 6,600-acre luxury dude ranch specializes in bringing families together around unforgettable experiences.

Family-friendly takes on a whole new meaning here. You’ll be welcomed with a premium bottle of wine and also receive a $100 ranch credit for the spa, mercantile or the reserve wine list. A range of accommodations, from a one-bedroom log cabin to a two-floor, four-bedroom home, cater to every occasion, whether you’re gathering the clan for a family reunion or getting away with the in-laws. With three sets of twin bunk beds and a

where guests immerse themselves in Western cowboy culture. A working ranch, Rock Creek owns nearly 75 horses. The Rod & Gun Club outfits guests with everything they’ll need for a day in the saddle, from boots to a Stetson and daily guided trail rides covering sagebrushcovered hills and Montana’s famous wideopen skies. In the summer, the Ranch hosts a weekly rodeo at Camp Roosevelt Arena. Watch from the stands as professional cowboys ride bucking broncos, or get in on the action with wheelbarrow races, boot tosses, and other events. On Friday mornings throughout the summer, a horse-drawn wagon ride delivers guests to Piney Pond for a traditional fireside cowboy breakfast. The smell of coffee roasting on the coals hits guests before they reach an elaborate al fresco spread of Dutch oven delicacies like gooey cinnamon rolls and castiron-cooked bacon and vegetable frittatas.

What’s more, an allinclusive rate means there’s no limit of fun.

The Ranch embraces “the spirit of play,” Family Fun. Visit the website on the back cover and enter

OFFER M19812 to unlock the wonder of the west.

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ROOM KEY

EXIT STRATEGY Get ready to fall for these new and noteworthy hotels.

This fall is the season travelers have been waiting for: Highly-anticipated hotels are opening their doors for the first time from coast to coast and continent to continent, and long-time favorites are applying final touches to new looks. Here, three favorites to plan your next escape.

The Sun Seeker: HOTEL ESENCIA, XPU HA MEXICO When Hollywood producer Kevin Wendle bought this 50-acre estate in 2014, he scored a beach front resort primed for potential. Located between Tulum and Playa del Carmen, Hotel Esencia is a Bohemian-chic hub of culture, cuisine, and comfort, drawing a well-heeled crowd of global wayfarers. Originally built as a private whitewashed hideaway for an Italian duchess, its regal heritage is celebrated in the Main House, with rich woods, travel tomes, and a mid-century collection of works by Pierre Jeanneret, Charlotte Perriand, and Pierre Guariche.

Decidedly removed from Riviera Maya’s mega resorts, the property is filled with Wendle’s personal art and antique collection. The haute hideaway is nestled between an ancient Mayan jungle and Xpu-Ha Bay, where sea turtles nest each year. What’s more, you’ll receive a spa credit and treatment at Esencia Spa.

The Health Nut:

DISCOVER: Famous underground cenotes are a labyrinth of underwater caves that tempt snorkelers and divers, while the Tulum Ruins tumble into the sea and private turquoise coves. If wanting an adventure on property, a nearby reef sanctuary is home to playful sea turtles and brilliant tropical fish.

EQUINOX HOTEL, HUDSON YARDS, NEW YORK, N.Y. The brand that turned working out into a luxurious affair is getting into the hotel game—and its first property, which opened in New York’s new Hudson Yards neighborhood in June, is a stunner, with every detail focused on wellness. Case in point: The hotel’s 60,000-square-foot fitness club—Equinox’s largest ever—takes the healthy-lifestyle trend to new heights with a 16,00-square-foot rooftop terrace and a high-performance training series called Tier X.

EAT: Though it may feel counterintuitive to order Wagyu beef while sitting so close to the sea, the new Beefbar Esencia is reason enough to stay here. And yes, they serve stellar seafood, too, but the real knockouts are its Certified Japanese Kobe beef and Australian Black Onyx and Wx Wagyu beef, prepared to order in the open kitchen’s brick oven. The posh dining area overlooks the resort’s lawn, blanketed with hammocks and resident peacocks.

SUITE GPS: Each of the 212 guest rooms, including 48 suites, is a cocoon of wellness, with soundproof walls, blackout curtains, natural-fiber mattresses (topped with duvets that regulate body temperature), and minibars filled with jet-lag remedies, sleep supplements, and bio-cellulose face masks.

SUITE GPS: The 40 suites and three villas are tucked between lush palm gardens, including new, two-story Penthouse Suites that live like treetop apartments.

Perched three levels above the gardens, penthouses frame Xpu-Ha bay and have private rooftop terraces with a heated plunge pool and champagne bar.

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New York City’s Equinox Hotel, Hudson Yards

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DISCOVER: It’s rare enough for a New York City hotel to have one pool, let alone several.

In addition to the rooftop swimming pool, the Equinox is home to a 75-foot indoor saltwater pool and hot and cold plunge pools for more targeted fitness recovery and wellness benefits.

EAT: You actually can get a delicious meal (and drink) at this health-focused hotel (where you’ll receive a $100 hotel credit), thanks to New York restaurateur Stephen Starr, whose expansive dining room features American cuisine crafted from artisanal, local ingredients and cocktails that combine superfoods with good old-fashioned booze.

Hotel de la Ville ™, a Rocco Forte Hotel, in Rome, Italy

The History Buff: HOTEL DE LA VILLE, A ROCCO FORTE HOTEL, ROME, ITALY Rocco Forte Hotels has long been the standard-bearer of luxury in the Italian capital with its elegant Hotel de Russie, but the brand’s second opening is bringing a new high-water mark to the Eternal City. Set in an 18th-century palazzo, Hotel de la Ville lets you live like royalty among rich fabrics and tapestries and priceless antiques. (In fact, its design was inspired by the German and English nobles who once traveled the world collecting art.)

Hotel Esencia, in Xpu Há, Mexico

SUITE GPS: Of the 104 rooms—all clad in marble and old-world charm—Suite de la Ville is the crown jewel, comprising the palazzo’s entire eighth floor and home to a jaw-dropping terrace with panoramic views of the Vatican. It’s the ideal accommodation for the anything-I-want-I-get guest: Exclusive limo service, VIP city tours, and in-room massages are all included.

DISCOVER: Take your pick of flashy ways to see Rome with Hotel de la Ville’s alternative sightseeing tours.

You can zip around Roman Holiday–style on a Vespa, zoom through the cobblestone streets in a Ferrari, get a birds-eye view via helicopter, or navigate narrow alleyways by Fiat 500.

EAT: Rome’s own Fulvio Pierangelini brings his Michelin-starred expertise to Mosaico, an elegant restaurant pairing traditional Italian cuisine with culinary flourishes from Africa, the Middle East, and across Europe. Enjoy a $100 hotel credit which can be used at the rooftop terrace, specializing in small plates, a cocktail bar that serves a mean mint julep, and a classic Roman trattoria.

Resort Report. Enter OFFER M19813 on the website found on the back cover to learn more about these hotels and resorts.

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CRUISE GPS

Epic Alaska While at sea in Alaska aboard Regent Seven Seas Cruises ® Seven Seas Mariner ®, the adventures are endless—and unforgettable.

ALASKA IS UNLIKE ANY OTHER ITINERARY. Given its history, culture, geography, and wildlife—it’s a real learning experience. Few journeys are as packed with adventure as Regent Seven Seas Cruises®’ northernmost American voyages. As the first all-suite, all-balcony ship in the world, expect to glide across the sea in style aboard the stylish

Seven Seas Mariner®. Couple that with endless, only-inAlaska experiences, and here are the top seven reasons to snag a spot on the next Alaskan itinerary.

Opposite: A grizzly bear in Alaska strikes a pose.

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CRUISE GPS

1. THE GLACIERS

They’re everywhere and impossible to ignore as they crackle and shift and glow in brilliant blue hues. Glaciers are a huge part of any Alaskan adventure—literally, as there are more than 30,000 square miles of the icy masses covering the state and its surrounding waters.

The 76-mile-long Hubbard Glacier in the Yukon as a particularly arresting experience, and guests will learn about how old it is, how it moves, and how geology works. Regent Seven Seas Cruises®’ Alaskan itineraries also include opportunities to walk on the glaciers, including the 4,845-foot-thick Taku Glacier, as well as fly over the Juneau Icefield via helicopter.

2. THE WHALES

One of the most memorable experiences aboard Seven Seas Mariner® may occur just off the coast of Juneau, where humpback whales may get so close that you’ll experience bubble-net 20

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feeding and breaching. Indeed, whale-watching is a favorite (and very regular) experience in the waters of the northern Pacific Ocean, whether from the observation deck of the Seven Seas Mariner® or aboard the only whale-watching yacht in Alaska, which passengers have access to. No matter where you see them, it’s always a monumental encounter.

3. THE BEARS

Expect plenty of opportunity to see wildlife in their natural habitats, especially black and brown bears. On aerial tours of Mendenhall Glacier, travelers can glimpse the furry beasts, in addition to mountain goats, as they prepare for winter. Still, the most sought-after encounter is the grizzly bear, which is both larger and rarer. Guests experience the Fortress of the Bear rescue center, where they can visit with animals that have been injured and are being taken care of until they can go back into the wild. The tour isn’t just for sightseeing—it supports an important organization that is vital to the survival of the species.

4. THE CUISINE

The dining opportunities aboard Seven Seas Mariner® are

CRUISE GPS

Take Me to Taku There’s one excursion that combines nearly everything on a curious traveler’s wish list: The Taku Glacier Flight and Feast. It starts with a float-plane flight from Juneau, soaring over electric-blue ice fields, snow-capped mountains, and lush forests until you arrive Opposite: The majestic Hubbard Glacier. Clockwise from left: Seven Seas Mariner® winds through Alaska; large crab pulled from Icy Strait; anbald eagle keeps an eye on prey.

at the historic Taku Lodge. Built in 1923, the classic Alaskan retreat is a veritable history book come to life, and owners Ken and Michelle Ward will

an experience unto themselves: There are seven restaurants in all, specializing in everything from fine French and Italian to healthy spa cuisine. But a cruise to Alaska uncovers the local—and incredibly fresh— culinary delights of the native aboriginal people. At Icy Strait Point, travelers can learn from natives how to grill wild salmon and halibut over an alder wood fire, as well as pick up tips for fileting, pickling, and spicing. George Island is a favorite among passengers, where guests can join a local in harvesting Dungeness crab and then take it to a restaurant to have it cooked for them.

5. THE HERITAGE

Of course, sailing opens up the wonders of Alaska’s coastal landscapes, but every itinerary also includes the opportunity to travel back in time via train. Constructed in the late 19th century, the White Pass and Yukon Route Railway was the lifeline of the famed Klondike Gold Rush, and today scenic tours take travelers on the original route from Skagway (itself a destination for its Gold-Rush-era buildings, museums, and saloons) to White Pass summit in British Columbia. The 20-mile route climbs nearly 3,000 feet in roughly an hour, and passes glaciers, gorges, waterfalls, and historic sites.

regale you with all of its tales, including the most famous story of Mary Joyce and her famous 1,000-mile dog sled trip. Such legends will be enjoyed over a meal of Alaskan King Salmon

6. THE DOGSLEDDING

No Alaskan adventure would be complete without a Siberian Husky. The most famous example of the animal’s resilience is the true story of Balto, a sled dog who heroically delivered life-saving medication to the town of Nome during the winter of 1925. For travelers on the Seven Seas Mariner® who want a “mushing” experience of their own, take a day trip to Mendenhall Glacier via helicopter where, after a hike atop the icy surface, guests will meet a local and his pack of huskies.

and cocktails (chilled by glacier ice, of course).

Then it’s back out to the wild to explore the old-growth forest—or you can choose to warm yourself by the fireplace surrounded by Joyce’s old dog sleds and other memorabilia.

7. THE BIRDS

Bears and whales are fabulous sightings by land and sea, but you’ll want to keep your eyes trained to the skies as well. Bald eagle sightings are abundant throughout Alaska, in both the wild and at the Alaska Raptor Center. The latter, located in Sitka on 17 acres of private land, provides life-saving medical treatment to bald eagles, golden eagles, and a variety of native owls, including the majestic snowy owl. Guests can view the animals up close during demonstrations and educational tours.

Chill Factor.

Discover Alaskan wildlife and culture by entering OFFER M19814 on the website found on the back cover.

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CRUISE GPS

Natural Beauty Specially designed to explore the extraordinary treasures of the Galápagos Islands, Celebrity Flora℠ is a cruise ship with a purpose.

THERE’S NO PLACE LIKE THE GALÁPAGOS. That’s no trope: As Charles Darwin discovered in his famous 19th-century journey, hundreds of animal and plant species are exclusive to this magical archipelago, which stretches some 17,000 square miles across the Pacific Ocean.

To see the Galápagos is to experience an ecosystem unlike any other in the world.

You’ll find blue-footed boobies performing their elaborate mating dances, 100-year-old giant tortoises slowly navigating the storied landscape, and thousands of lazy, dragon22

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like iguanas—the only species in the world that dive into the ocean to feed on algae.

Of course, to glimpse it all, one must, like Darwin, set out to sea. And now, the journey will become as riveting as the destination itself with the launch of Celebrity Flora. Unveiled in June, the all-suite ship was made for the Galápagos—literally—prioritizing the islands in every way, from the technical (a dynamic positioning system that ensures the sea floor remains undisturbed) to the aesthetic (outward facing architecture that ensures the first and last thing you see every day is the view).

“Flora is the perfect sustainable, floating resort,” says Francesca Bucci, president of BG Studio International,

CRUISE GPS

Ready. Set. Glamp.

Clockwise from left: Iguanas in the Galápagos dive into the ocean to feed on algae; the elegant Penthouse Suite aboard the new Celebrity Flora; the Galapagos giant tortoise is a favorite for photos; the high-tech Celebrity Flora navigates the Pacific.

the interiors firm responsible for the ship’s innovative design. “She was built exclusively with a purpose—created specifically to accommodate and embrace the environment.” To that end, Bucci ensured that most every aspect of the ship would have floor-to-ceiling vistas to the outside, whether from the bed in your suite, your table at dinner, or the treadmill in the gym. The furniture—sourced by designer and Ecuadorian native Adriana Hoyos—took similar cues from the environment, looking to the textures, colors, and shapes of the Galápagos Islands’ endemic plant and animal species for inspiration. For example, sculptural upholstered chairs throughout the ship were modeled after birds’ nests seen across the archipelago.

But Celebrity Flora isn’t just a pretty face: To truly embrace the Galápagos, the ship also takes care of the delicate ecosystem that surrounds it, featuring a deck with solar panels, energy-efficient diesel engines, and an advance propulsion system that significantly reduces fuel consumption and emissions.

Custom-built Novurania tenders, meanwhile, make for comfortable excursions, with hydraulic platforms that allows easier access to the ship and the islands— all the better to aid passengers in joining Celebrity Cruises® reforestation efforts. Held in collaboration with the Galapagos National Park, the initiative has helped plant more than 38,000 trees to date. It all adds up to a ship of many firsts—one that’s more luxurious and sustainable than any other sailing these special waters, and one that communes with its destination in a way that no ship has before. Because there’s no place like the Galápagos—and now, there’s no ship like Celebrity Flora.

Celebrity Flora is giving adventurers a glamorous, onenight camping adventure on its top deck.

The Galápagos Glamping experience allows guests the unique opportunity to dine under one of the most majestic night skies on the globe, with comfy and stylish accommodations in an open-air cabana. As night falls, your guide will point out stars you’ve never seen before (here, you can see the constellations of both the Northern and Southern Hemispheres).

What’s more, al fresco, campfireinspired cuisine, including s’mores, is served in the evening, while a full bedside breakfast kick starts yet another day of unforgettable exploration.

Trailblazer.

Want a Galápagos experience like none other? Enter OFFER M19815 on the website found on the back cover.

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CRUISE GPS

A Taste of .S.A.L.T. Experience true immersive culinary travel on and off Silversea’s new ship, Silver Moon.

BY AMIEE WHITE BEAZLEY 24

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CRUISE GPS

By the Numbers

Celebrating 25 years, a snapshot of Silversea Cruises …

2019

This year, Silversea celebrates 25 years as one of the industry’s leading ultra-luxury cruise lines.

1994

When Silversea first set sail.

Silversea has hosted

500,000

guests on approximately 4,100 voyages.

Silversea’s ships have completed an accumulated total of over

47,800

cruise days.

Opposite: A feast for the senses. Clockwise from top: Seafood kare-kare in Manila, Philippines; the onboard Kaiseki .S.A.L.T. Culinary Experience; sweet treats at sea; exploring the Food Market in Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia.

Silver Cloud—the cruise line’s first ship—was christened in Monaco on

May 30, 1994.

SILVERSEA CRUISES WILL UNVEIL A NEW SHIP, SILVER MOON, BUILT WITH ONE, NEW FOCUS IN MIND: FOOD. The all-suite, 596-passenger ship will debut in summer 2020 and will host the line’s new .S.A.L.T. (Sea And Land Taste) program. Curated by former Saveur magazine Editor-In-Chief Adam Sachs, .S.A.L.T. is being hailed as the most immersive culinary experience offered by a cruise line, providing guests with an elevated understanding of the tastes, cultures, and food traditions of the destinations explored.

“If you really want to feel like you’ve gone

to a place,” says Sachs, a three-time winner of the prestigious James Beard Journalism Award, “eating the food and learning about the food culture is the best way.”

Leveraging his journalistic approach, Sachs will share the world’s most engaging culinary stories with guests via experiences that celebrate the pulse of each location and connect travelers with chefs, producers, farmers, winemakers, and food artisans.

Silversea began with 25 land-based employees in Fort Lauderdale; at the end of 2018, there were

2,571 employees.

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From left: Food expert Maya Kerthyasa; a dish created for an event in Sandakan, Malaysia; guests enjoy an exclusive tasting in Manila; Adam Sachs visits locals on Romblon island in the Philippines.

“We’re taking an investigative, adventurous, and open-minded approach to culinary travel,” Sachs adds. “My mission in this new role is simply an extension of the approach I’ve always taken as a food and travel writer: to apply an endless curiosity and adventurous appetite to deep-dive explorations of the ingredients, cuisine, and rituals of the countries and communities we visit. There’s no better—or more enjoyable— way to engage and understand the world than through the flavors and stories of its food and wine culture and the people and personalities behind it. With our new initiative, the .S.A.L.T. project, there will be no better place to explore it all than with Silversea.”

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Tailored to the region where Silver Moon sails, .S.A.L.T. takes shoreside experiences such as market trips, winery visits, and dining experiences in regional restaurants and bars back on board via stimulating lectures, unique tastings, and hands-on cooking experiences, all designed to dive even deeper into regional culinary traditions while sailing from port to port.

In fact, Silver Moon will feature an entire ecosystem around the food cultures of the world through the .S.A.L.T. program, showing how ingredients, techniques, and cuisine changes between each regional port. The ship’s guests will dine on fine cuisine in eight restaurants—each with a distinct concept, from Silversea’s signature Hot Rocks concept at The Grill to authentic Japanese fare served in Kaiseki.

The .S.A.L.T. Kitchen will be entirely devoted to the authentic flavors of various Silversea itineraries,

CRUISE GPS

offering an evolving menu and a regionally inspired wine list, while at the .S.A.L.T. Bar, guests will enjoy regional drinks that further engage the flavors of specific destinations.

Additionally, the dedicated .S.A.L.T. Lab is another new concept on Silver Moon, in which Silversea guests will investigate regional food cultures under the tutorage of expert local chefs and industry authorities. Guests can learn about local ingredients and artisanal techniques through workshops, tastings, and demonstrations. Authenticity will be top of the menu and themed experiences will adapt according to the region in which guests are cruising.

For example, while cruising between Bali and Sandakan, Malaysia, guests might investigate the history, conventions, and secrets of Balinese cuisine. On a recent

preview cruise, food expert and member of Ubud’s Royal Family, Maya Kerthyasa, shared stories of her grandmother’s traditional recipes and hosted a spice paste workshop, in which participants were educated on the region’s food culture through a hands-on cooking experience.

“The power of traveling this way, onboard a ship, is you’re not just going to one place, you’re following a path,” says Sachs. “As the cuisine changes, the landscape changes, the culture changes, and it really enriches the experience of travel.”

Culinary Cruises

Interested in Silversea’s

.S.A.L.T.-inspired adventures? Enter OFFER M19816 on the

“There’s no better way to engage and understand the world than through the flavors and stories of its food and wine culture."

-- ADAM SACHS

website found on the back cover to learn more.

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LIVE LIKE A LOCAL

John Oates’ Nashville Home to the Country Music Hall of Fame, this city is primed for noteworthy sounds, sips, and sass.

JOHN OATES OF HALL & OATES—THE NUMBER-ONE SELLING DUO IN MUSIC HISTORY—HAS MADE NASHVILLE HOME WHILE EMBARKING ON A LAUDED SOLO CAREER. As a traveling musician, he spends ample time in flight to various global stages. On the heels of his latest solo album, Arkansas, which is inspired by the music and legacy of Mississippi legend John Hurt, we caught up with him prior to his European tour. Here, he gives his not-to-miss Nashville haunts.

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FAVORITE BREAKFAST SPOT Breakfast at home is my favorite, but Country Boy in Leipers Fork is a nice excuse to drive out of town and enjoy some down-home cooking.

OFF THE BEATEN PATH Nashville has miles of interconnected beautiful hiking trails as part of the Percy Warner park system.

FAVORITE GUITAR SHOP Carter Vintage on 8th Avenue South. Great selection, knowledgeable, and friendly familyrun business.

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL

Clockwise from left: Oates recently released a new solo album; Nashville’s Frist Art Museum is housed in an art deco building; cocktails and cuisine at Thompson Nashville’s rooftop bar; Barista Parlor is Oates’ go-to for handcrafted coffee.

Flight Plan Oates reveals his ultimate in-flight playlist—inspiration for your next trip’s soundtrack.

FAVORITE NASHVILLE STAGE I have two: The historic Ryman Auditorium and the Gulch’s Station Inn. BEST COFFEE Barista Parlor or Frothy Monkey.

BEST PLACE FOR DISCOVERING UP-AND-COMING MUSICAL TALENT Anywhere! Just pop into any of the hundreds of venues and I guarantee you’ll be amazed at the talent all over town.

TOP FAMILY ADVENTURE The Nashville Zoo, a Nashville Sounds baseball game, and the Lane Motor Museum.

BEST DAY TRIP Exploring the beautiful back roads south of the city or north toward Kentucky … best enjoyed in a top-down convertible.

LAST CALL Acme Feed & Seed’s rooftop bar, located on lower Broadway.

WHERE TO WATCH THE SUNSET The rooftop of the Thompson Nashville, located in the Gulch.

NEVER THOUGHT I’D EXPERIENCE How easy it is to travel in and out of Nashville due to its central location and great airport.

TOP RESTAURANT FOR DATE NIGHT BrickTop’s on West End Avenue.

FAVORITE ART SPACE The Frist Art Museum.

Nashville GPS.

Enter OFFER M20158

on the website on the back cover and explore Nashville’s finest hotels.

WORKING IN A COALMINE Lee Dorsey DAYDREAMING AND I’M THINKING OF YOU Aretha Franklin ARKANSAS John Oates and the Good Road Band DEEP RIVER BLUES Doc Watson KEEP ON PUSHING Curtis Mayfield UNFAITHFUL SERVANT The Band BLUE Joni Mitchell SAME OL RIVER Sam Bush KING OF BROKEN HEARTS Jim Lauderdale

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GAME CHANGER

inch of the globe, from pole to pole and on every continent, is testament to the kind of unrivaled access and expertise they share with guests on every single trip. So how to decide on your next journey? Here’s the company’s top three Arctic and Antarctic adventures for 2020. Prepare to be wowed.

CLASSIC ANTARCTICA

Ice Ice, BABY Abercrombie & Kent’s sailing expeditions to the polar extremes are the coolest adventures of 2020.

“WOW” IS A WORD THAT GETS USED A LOT WHEN YOU’RE ON AN ABERCROMBIE & KENT TRIP. The travel outfitter— which was founded nearly 60 years ago by consummate wanderer and legend-in-his-own-time adventurer Geoffrey Kent—has a knack for sending its clients on once-in-a-lifetime journeys filled with unimaginable surprises that unfold over and over again. That Kent’s team has explored nearly every

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It may be called “classic” but there’s nothing typical about A&K’s 12-night Antarctic cruise aboard the luxurious yacht Le Lyrial. Each sailing is unique, owing to the famously unpredictable conditions in this part of the world.

A favorite stop on the itinerary is the Lemaire Channel, which is one of the most stunningly beautiful places on the planet, and nicknamed Kodak Alley. But, it’s not a guarantee the ship can get through to it on every voyage, which is all part of the fun of it—feeling like you’re on a bona fide expedition, where navigation decisions are being made in real time and plans can change at a moment’s notice. Still, even when things don’t go according to plan, there are plenty of guaranteed wow moments, whether making a few waddling friends on a visit to one of the largest breeding colonies of Adélie penguins, landing on fabled sites like Terror Island, or planting your feet on the White Continent itself, some 600 miles away from the southern tip of Argentina.

ANTARCTICA, SOUTH GEORGIA & THE FALKLAND ISLANDS

This 17-night itinerary adds a bevy of

GAME CHANGER

South Georgia is the most amazing wildlife destination on the planet. new adventures to the traditional Antarctic cruise, from the Falkland Islands—home to the tiny and colorful capital of Stanley as well as unspoiled isles just beyond—to South Georgia, which A&K experts call the most amazing wildlife destination on the planet. In fact, South Georgia is noted for having the highest level of biodiversity anywhere. That means you may spot nesting albatrosses, breaching whales, southern elephant seals, and hundreds of thousands of king penguins in a single day. You’ll also trace the footsteps of one of Antarctica’s greatest heroes—Ernest Shackleton—with a visit to his grave site on Grytviken.

NORTHWEST PASSAGE

A&K’s 23-night expedition from Greenland to the Alaska Coast is a true expedition, traversing the entirety of the Northwest Passage—a vast and diverse region that is rarely experienced at such depths. Winding into the Canadian Arctic through the Bering Sea and finally on to Alaska, the journey offers an embarrassment of riches ranging from wildlife and nature to history and culture.

At the top of everyone’s list, of course, is polar bears,

Opposite: Abercrombie & Kent guests explore the planet’s most far-flung locales. From left: The Le Lyrial is the ultimate host at sea; playful penguins are among endless wildlife sightings.

and, A&K does not disappoint. The bears rely on the sea ice for survival, so this voyage—as it typically encounters numerous areas with the sea ice— comes with great polar-bear-viewing opportunities. Another favorite stop is Gjoa Haven in Nunavut, where the Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen led the first transit of the Northwest Passage in 1906. His expedition was stalled for over a year and is a reminder to us still how challenging—and rewarding—seeing this part of the world is.

Ocean Bound. For more info on expeditions with Abercrombie & Kent, enter OFFER M19818 on the website found on the back cover.

WOW FACTOR /

GAME CHANGER

The Best of BOTSWANA Elevate family fun with Ker & Downey’s Young Explorers Program in Botswana’s Shinde Private Reserve. BY JEN MURPHY IT WASN’T ALL THAT LONG AGO WHEN KIDS WEREN’T ALLOWED ON SAFARI. But early on, Ker & Downey recognized that an African wildlife experience would not only captivate kids, but could also bring families closer together. In 2006, the luxury experiential tour operator introduced the Young Explorers Program in Botswana’s Shinde Private Reserve. The original highend family safari in Botswana still sets itself apart with its exclusivity. Each family has the 32

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use of the Footsteps Camp, a private, six-bed tented camp, plus a professional guide, personal chef, waiter, housekeeper, and dedicated mokoro (canoe) guides.

A dedicated Young Explorers guide is on hand with a roster of educational activities geared towards kids of all ages, from learning to track game on foot and in 4x4 safari vehicles to tutorials on poling a mokoro and starting a fire with two sticks.

“Safari is a special therapy for families, as they share wonderful experiences and engage more together without the disturbance of mobile phones

GAME CHANGER

Opposite: Private guided walks let guests explore Botswana’s nature up close.

Clockwise from left: a gorgeous dusk at Footsteps Camp; a lion’s version of a morning stretch; learning archery while on safari.

and social media,” says a guide with Young Explorers. “Seven is a great age to introduce kids on safari. At that age they can remember their experience and understand rules.

Their attention span is not long, but the interesting wildlife and beautiful landscapes keep them excited.”

Ker & Downey recognizes that children are the future stewards of the planet. As such, their Young Explorers Program hinges on engaging and educating youth about endangered species and the unique ecosystem of the Okavanga. “Education is the key to preserving our environment for future generations,” says the Young Explorers guide. During safaris, guides use a checklist to track elephants, buffalo, and other fauna and flora. The bush and water environments provide a special wildlife viewing opportunity.

In addition to the traditional 4x4 safari experience, families can explore the reed beds of the Okavanga waterways by mokoro. With luck, they may even spot a sitaunga, one of the world’s most unusual antelope that has adapted to this aquatic environment.

Ker & Downey sets an example for both kids and adults by adopting sustainable practices. For example, “in private concessions where we can off road, we keep it to a minimum, not

Giving Back Since 2009, Ker & Downey Botswana has played an active role supporting Bana Ba Letsatsi (Children of the Sun), a Maun-based NGO that supports over 250 orphans

off roading on seasonal flood plains, allowing only three vehicles per sighting, no littering and one of the golden rules of conservation is: never take anything, but only leave your footprints,” adds the guide. Community involvement is also central to the experience. Youth get a chance to engage with locals, learning skills like how to weave palm leaves into baskets and how to carve the palm seed (also known as Plant Ivory) into jewelry. With its mix of wildlife and cultural experiences, Ker & Downey’s Botswana safari promises to leave families with life lessons and unforgettable memories.

and vulnerable at-risk children.

The organization’s rehabilitation center offers children educational programming, counseling, food, clothing, medical attention, and technical skills training. A portion of every Ker & Downey Botswana Family Safari goes toward funding Bana Ba Letsatsi.

Adventure Obsessed? Enter OFFER M19819 on the website found on the back cover and explore

Botswana, Dubai, Oman, and Latin America.

© 2019 Cunard. Ships’ Registry: Bermuda.

Expect the exceptional.

Contact your professional Travel Advisor now for expert advice and great value.

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ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES

go now

September 2019

HIDDEN GEMS

MADE FOR THE MED

GET OUT THERE!

Page 36

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Asia

Sardinia

South Africa

DESTINATION GPS . POINT OF VIEW . ABROAD & BEYOND . BESPOKE >

Above: A brilliant dusk at Amanyara, Turks & Caicos.

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DESTINATION GPS

HIDDEN GEMS of ASIA With these culturally rich sojourns, a new world of enticing exploration awaits. BY JEN MURPHY 36

DESTINATION GPS

SWAIN DESTINATIONS PRIDES ITSELF ON GETTING TRAVELERS OFF-THE-BEATEN-PATH, ESPECIALLY IN WELL-TRAVELED DESTINATIONS. Carefully curated itineraries connect travelers to local culture and lend access to unique adventures you’ll talk about for years to come. Here are three one-of-a-kind experiences the family-run company offers in Bali, Thailand, and Japan.

THAILAND

Thailand’s spectacular beaches and rich culture have long made it a bucket-list destination.

Swain’s Phuket Escape shows travelers a unique side of the popular island: it’s fascinating limestone caves. On a starlight sea canoeing adventure in Phang Nga Bay, you’ll get to play explorer while paddling throughout the caves and hidden lagoons that American adventurer John Gray (aka “the Caveman”) discovered in 1989.

Giant limestone karstic islands dwarf paddlers as they follow their guide deep into “Hongs,” or mysterious cave-like rooms. After exploring the dark caves, you’ll venture into hidden cliff-lined lagoons. You’ll want to keep an eye out for wildlife while paddling, as these waters are home to kingfishers, sea eagles, mudskippers, macaques, water monitors, and brahminy kites. Once the sun sets, enjoy a starlit journey back to shore, where you’ll send a handmade banana leaf-and-flower offering known as a krathong out to sea.

Opposite: Mount Kōya in Japan.

From top: Iconic long tail boats in Phuket, Thailand; a sacred Mount Kōya temple; the Goa Gajah Cave in Bali.

BALI

Go beyond Bali’s spectacular beaches and inland jungles and experience the soul of the island. During the Spiritual Bali itinerary, guests venture through Ubud and Uluwatu on a spiritual journey.

Other highlights include participating in a morning blessing ritual at a family temple. Wake before dawn to visit the 11th-century Elephant Cave, also known as Goa Gajah. Local Hindus often come to bathe in the sacred springs of this spiritual meditation site.

After visiting the relicfilled courtyard, caves, and pools, your host will take you on a tour of a traditional Balinese village where you’ll meet the local priest, or Brahman, for coffee or tea and Balinese cake. Each guest will have the opportunity to meet privately with a local astrologer and have their fortune told using ancient methods.

Afterward, the group will partake in a traditional blessing and purification ceremony led by the Brahman in the family temple.

JAPAN

All the sights and sounds dissolve into quiet when you set foot in Mount Kōya, a small, secluded temple town considered the center of Shingon Buddhism. Built in 819 CE (AD), this ancient temple celebrates a time when life was quiet and still. The Shingon sect of Buddhism was introduced to Japan in 805 by Kobo Daishi and headquartered on Koyasan’s wooded, 2,953-foot mountaintop.

Today, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is known as the Sacred Site and Pilgrimage Route, as it bookends the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage. Guests can explore relics of another time in the form of pagodas, temples, Buddha statues, and mandalas.

After lunch, visit two more temples: Danjo Garan and the Okunoin Temple. The latter is considered the most sacred site of Daishi worshipers and is home to the Mausoleum of Kobo Daishi as well as the famous Tama River, which is believed to cleanse the souls of worshipers.

Luxury Asia? Check!

Enter OFFER M19820 on the website found on the back cover and explore customized adventures.

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DESTINATION GPS

Simply Sardinia Italy’s majestic Mediterranean island comes alive when you experience it on two wheels with Butterfield & Robinson.

BY JACKIE CARADONIO Before there were vacationers and tourists, yachties and cruisers, before the Aga Khan and A-list celebrities, Sardinia had the Phoenicians and the Romans.

Human civilization in this age-old Mediterranean gem goes back at least 50,000 years—and it’s not that hard to believe. If you take away the gleaming ships in port and the chic cafés lining the craggy coastline and the occasional summer home (sprawling and fabulous though it is), it almost appears as if nothing has changed for millennia. The enigmatic nuraghi—beehive-shaped stone megaliths built by the first people to inhabit this picturesque Italian retreat—still dot the isle from coast to coast. In the main city of Cagliari, baroque churches and stone palazzi appear downright modern by comparison. And when the wind blows the sculptural pine trees on the beach at sunset, it’s easy to imagine that this scene has played out day after day for longer than human history itself.

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DESTINATION GPS

“The Costa Smeralda is home to almost every shade of blue imaginable.”

This is the Sardinia that you come to know when you experience the island on two wheels. Traversing its famously rugged landscapes on foot— or by Ferrari—certainly has its perks (especially that Ferrari), but the pace of a bicycle truly brings the fabled Costa Smeralda to life. Butterfield & Robinson, the Canadian company that has been taking clients on walking and cycling adventures for more than five decades, knows well the secrets of Sardinia, both old and new. During my first time in Sardinia, here’s what I found on a roving journey with the outfitter.

COSTA SMERALDA

Between the sky and the sea, the Costa Smeralda is home to almost every shade of blue imaginable.

Cycling along its idyllic shores, stretching some 12 miles across the northeastern portion of the island, I discover secluded beaches and charming coves. Of course, there are plenty of spots to see and be seen— luxurious hotels among them—but our guide knows a few places where we’ll share the landscapes with only a few travelers (if any). After a long ride in the warm sun, I strip down to my bathing suit and dive into the cool, blue sea.

Opposite: The charming seaside town of Castelsardo in Sardinia. From top: The colorful city of Cagliari; Sardinia’s oh-so-tasty mozzarella, tomato, and basil, served atop fresh local bread.

MADDALENA AND CAPRERA

It’s still early morning when I hop a ferry—bike in tow—to the Maddalena Archipelago and Caprera, a remote and stunning island off the coast of Sardinia. There, sailors in the know anchor as close to the sandy coves as possible, but I’ve got full reign of the granite formations and winding roads inland. By sunset, I’m famished, and it’s a good thing: A special dinner has been arranged for me, and I dine on handmade pasta and sip Cannonau, Sardinia’s light-bodied (and almost too easy to drink) red wine as the sun disappears behind the horizon.

SUPRAMONTE

Today I ditch my bike and head out on a Zodiac with a local skipper to the Supramonte range, where I discover firsthand that half of Italy’s sheep population call Sardinia home. The mountains themselves are magical— chalky-white granite monuments spackled with vibrant green trees—but it’s a visit to a nearby farm where I

truly appreciate all that cattle, with extra helpings of cheese and more Cannonau.

COSTA SMERALDA, 2.0

I’ve come so far! Having logged mile after mile on the hilly and circuitous roads, I’ve no doubt earned one last indulgence back at Costa Smeralda.

Thus, I head to the chicest of the chic: Hotel Pitrizza and its fabulous restaurant. There’s plenty of peoplewatching as guests pour in from the yachts and resorts nearby, but it’s the antipasti and aperitivo that leave me wishing there was more time to explore Sardinia—old, new, and everything in-between—for just a few days more.

Sardinia is Calling … Visit the website found on the back cover and enter OFFER M19821 to discover la dolce vita.

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DESTINATION GPS

The X Factor Prep your passport for East Africa and get ready for over the top and outside the box.

BY JEN MURPHY

With more than 50 years of experience, Micato Safaris has earned a reputation as Africa’s luxury safari specialist. Over the decades the company’s unique itineraries have raised the bar for experiential travel in the African bush. While other tour operators venture to the same classic destinations, lodges and camps, Micato adds a unique and authentic “X Factor” touch to each of its safaris. These three trips underscore the details that set Micato apart.

Opposite: The annual wildebeest migration in Kenya.

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DESTINATION GPS Left: Southern Africa’s famous Victoria Falls flows between Zimbabwe and Zambia. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Discovering the Maasai Mara from a birds-eye view; a bush walk in East Africa with Maasai warriors; elephants refuel at a watering hole adjacent to the Four Seasons Safari Lodge; a posh tented suite at andBeyond Bateleur Camp in Kenya.

THE MICATO GRAND SAFARI

Relive the golden era of safaris on this 12-night East Africa journey. You’ll feel transported back in time from the moment you touch down in Nairobi and settle into the glamorous Hemingways Nairobi hotel, set in the shadows of Karen Blixen’s beloved Ngong Hills. Six flights make travel between game reserves and camps seamless so you can maximize your time viewing wildlife and sipping sundowners.

Guests stay at the most luxurious accommodations, including andBeyond Bateleur Camp, a tented stay in the Maasai Mara known for its elegant Old World touches, including fine china and crystal and leather furnishings, and the Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti, where guests can view elephants from their own private plunge pools. Every day offers a once-in-a-lifetime experience, from a sunrise hot air balloon flight over the Maasai Mara to a guided rhinotracking trek in Kenya’s famed Lewa Wildlife Conservancy.

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AFRICAN SPLENDOUR

Experience the best of East and Southern Africa’s culture and wildlife on this four-country, 14-night journey. The first five days in Southern Africa are optional, but highly recommended. Cape Town is proof that South Africa offers much more than the Big Five. Belmond Mount Nelson, the city’s grand dame hotel, serves as your base the first two days as you explore the Cape Winelands and their stellar Pinotage and Chenin Blanc wines, in addition to the magical view of Table Mountain. Once acclimated, fly north to iconic Victoria Falls where Micato has arranged a helicopter flight over “the Smoke that Thunders” and a cruise on the Zambezi River.

Safari in style the next 10 days as you explore Tanzania’s Lake Manyara, beloved by Hemingway, the Ngorongoro Crater, the Serengeti and the Maasai Mara. Along the way you’ll stay in the most luxurious lodges and camps, including Sir Richard Branson’s Mahali Mzuri, a set of futuristic, dome-like tents set next to one of the Mara’s prime migration pathways.

DESTINATION GPS

TANZANIA SPECTACULAR

The ultimate safari for those pressed for time, the Tanzania Spectacular captures East Africa’s best game viewing areas in seven action-packed nights. The journey begins in the classic game lands of Tarangire, where you’ll spend two nights surrounded by ancient baobabs in the treehouse lodges at Tarangire Treetops camps. En route to the Ngorongoro Crater you’ll have plenty of opportunities to snap photos of the lions, elephants, and black rhinos that frequent the caldera’s floor. Located just 20 minutes away, Neptune Ngorongoro Luxury Lodge’s stylish cabins are the perfect base to marvel at the other worldly volcanic landscape and enjoy dinner under the stars. A twoday safari in the fabled Serengeti ensures you’ll end your trip on a high note. Wildlife viewing at the stylish Serengeti Migration Camp is as easy as sitting on your tent’s private deck and watching for hippos and crocs as you sip your sundowner.

Digital Download. Enter OFFER EW18887 on the website on the back cover and discover the best of the bush.

Give Back When Dennis and Joy Pinto of Micato Safaris visited Mukuru’s Kwa Njenga government primary school in 2009, they committed to revitalizing the school’s barren library as well as completely building another for the people of Mukuru. But they knew that they wanted to do more. A few months later the Pintos heard Blake Mycoskie of TOMS Shoes present his company’s One for One program, which gives a new pair of shoes to a child in need for every pair purchased. Mycoskie so inspired the Pintos that by lunchtime they were mapping out the concept, and the Micato One for One Commitment was born: For every safari sold, Micato sends a child to school.

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Cheers, South Africa!

An African escape isn’t solely defined by bush retreats and sundowners.

These Top 5 Adventures will get any curious explorer revved.

BY JEN MURPHY

South Africa may be best known for its Big Five safaris, but the country also ranks as one of the world’s top adventure destinations. Here are five not-to-miss experiences beyond your typical game drive.

1. SHARK CAGE DIVING

What’s more thrilling than viewing a lion from a safari vehicle? Coming face to face with a great white on a shark cage diving adventure. The Western Cape province is home to the three most popular locations for cage diving with great whites: False Bay, Seal Island in Mossel Bay, and Shark Alley near Hermanus.

From the safety of an underwater cage, you’ll observe and photograph the sharks in their natural habitat. A friendly bump as they swim by is the ultimate adrenaline rush.

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POINT OF VIEW

Culinary Cape Town Table Seven Luke Wonnacott and his wife Katie recently opened their own spot in the hip Salt Orchard Precinct.

More dinner party than restaurant, their open kitchen serves lunch and can be booked for private

Opposite: Peak bagging in South Africa. Clockwise from top left: Getting up close and personal to the most revered animal in the ocean; a birds-eye view of the country via zip line; dawn salutations along South Africa’s storied landscape.

dinners. Guests can watch the chef prepare dishes like burrata and fennel salad with fynbos vinaigrette at the eight-seat chef’s counter, or dine at the 18-seat communal table.

2. HIKING IN THE DRAKENSBERG MOUNTAINS

KwaZulu-Natal’s 124-mile-long uKhahlamba-Drakensberg escarpment is a natural playground of river valleys, mountain streams, rugged cliffs, and endless hiking trails. This UNESCO World Heritage designated area is known for its vast network of caves covered in paintings from the nomadic San and Bantu tribes. An estimated 600 rock art sites feature more than 35,000 images. The best way to take in the stunning scenery is on foot. Popular hikes include the 7.5-mile Lower Injisuthi Cave trek and the wildlife-rich, 3.4-mile Rainbow Gorge trail.

3. SURFING

Whether you’re a beginner or a pro, South Africa has the perfect wave for you. There are dozens of prime surfing spots within an hour’s drive of Cape Town and along Durban’s famous “Golden Mile” stretch of beaches. The gentle rollers at Muizenberg Beach, known for its Crayola-colored bath houses, are perfect for novices, while experienced surfers can test their skills at Supertubes, a famous wave at Jeffrey’s Bay. Cape Town-based adventure outfitter Escape and Explore can help arrange daytrips or surf safaris as well as instruction from some of the country’s top surfers.

The Test Kitchen Opened in 2010 in the

4. HOT AIR BALLOONING

On a balloon safari over the Cradle of Humankind World Heritage Site you have an 80-percent chance of sighting at least two of the Big Five during the hour-long flight. On a classic flight, you’ll toast the sunrise with a glass of bubbly while soaring high above the Magaliesberg, among the oldest mountains of the world. From December through February, you can take in the gorgeous Paarl vineyards near Cape Town ahead of an afternoon tasting tour.

5. ZIP LINING

Add a dose of adventure to your Garden Route road trip by stopping to experience a Tsitsikamma canopy tour. Guides can help point out unique bird life—like the elusive, red-plumed Narina Trojan and Knysna Lories— throughout the three-hour tour.

Ten platforms and nine cables allow you to “fly” 100-feet above the indigenous forest floor, taking in incredible views of 700-year-old giant Outeniqua Yellowood trees and ancient ferns.

now trendy Woodstock neighborhood, the Test Kitchen is still one of the city’s toughest reservations. Chef Luke Dale-Roberts has won international acclaim for his South African take on global dishes. Expect artful tasting menus that showcase local ingredients, like smoked kingklip fish and eiland (oryx) carpaccio, paired with regional wines and craft cocktails.

South African Adventure.

Enter OFFER M19865 on the website found on the back cover and get ready for an adrenaline boost.

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The Best of Belize Diving the famous Great Blue Hole is all in a day’s play on Ambergris Caye. BY ERIN LENTZ “MIND IF WE CHUM THE WATERS?” ASKS OUR DIVE MASTER. I’m 60

miles off the coast of Belize, in the middle of the famous Great Blue Hole, a giant marine sinkhole. As our dive boat pitches back and forth and 15 advanced scuba divers defog goggles, check tanks, and test regulators, my eyes bulge at the thought of a shark frenzy, but seeing no one else’s hands shoot up to answer, yes!, I instead dutifully pull on my fins, tighten my mask, and giant-stride into the navy blue sea.

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First explored by Jacques Cousteau and a UNESCO World Heritage site, The Great Blue Hole, from an aerial vantage, looks akin to a giant pupil in the ocean—a brilliant concentric limestone sinkhole lined with gorgeous hues of teal and blue.

The dive is not for novices. For one, it’s a deep dive—130 feet— and, if lucky, reveals schools of hammerheads, reef sharks, and giant groupers. So though I’m thrilled to be on this oncein-a-lifetime adventure, my heart races as I descend into the deep blue.

As I reach the 130-foot mark, I constantly check my depth gauge. The water becomes drastically colder the deeper we dive, and then suddenly—whoa!—ethereal stalactites

POINT OF VIEW

Opposite: The Great Blue Hole off the coast of Belize. From top: Locally sourced Belizean cuisine; brilliant underwater eye candy.

dramatically drop from a giant overhang.

I look to my dive buddy, who gives me the shark sign and points toward the surface.

As I look toward the brilliant blue above, a school of hammerheads circles above our group. Big. Beautiful. Otherworldly.

And though alert, I’m surprisingly not frightened. To witness these creatures firsthand (and so many!), is a bucket-list check. As we make our way back toward the surface, a feeding frenzy of reef sharks is glimpsed from 30 feet underwater (once on the surface, I’ve never made my way back to a dive boat so fast). It remains my most memorable dive experience.

If planning your own Belize escape, there’s plenty to be explored. With ancient Mayan ruins to rival those on the Yucatán Peninsula, the largest barrier reef in the Northern Hemisphere, and lush rainforests, here’s what’s not-to-miss on Ambergris Caye.

Cheat Sheet>Ambergris Caye HELI HOP. Your flight departs from the Grand Caribe Heliport in Ambergris Caye.

Once you’re wheels up, experience an aerial view of North Ambergris Caye, San Pedro, Belize Barrier Reef, and Shark Ray Alley.

SEA STAR. The Hol Chan Marine Reserve is arguably one of the best day trips for snorkeling and diving. Mayan for “little channel,” the reserve is a small cut through

Stay>Cayo Espanto Your own private island off Ambergris Caye?

Well, why not.

Located three miles off the coast of San Pedro, Cayo Espanto’s seven oceanfront villas each have private plunge pools and decks. The full island rental includes all villas, for up to 18 guests, the luckiest of which can stay at Casa Ventanas, a 1,100-squarefoot, over-water bungalow surrounded on all sides by the Caribbean.

the reef, or quebrada, and is just 25 yards wide, 30 feet deep, and home to more than 160 species of fish and 40 species of coral.

DESIGN FIND. Shop Graniel’s Dreamland for all things Belizean chic, including clam chairs, bowls, and furniture sourced with local rosewood and teak.

SAVOR. Don’t miss the Austininspired Truck Stop, a collective of colorful food trucks in San Pedro that dishes pad thai, pizza, arepas, and ice cream in refurbished shipping containers. For something fancier, reserve an ocean view table at Palmilla Restaurant at the Victoria House.

Belize It!

Dreaming of an island retreat?

Enter OFFER M19866 on the website on the back cover and immerse yourself in Caribbean adventure.

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AN EPIC

ENDEAVOR Luxury leader Crystal® gets adventurous with its first-ever expedition ship. BY JACKIE CARADONIO

Above: Crystal Endeavor navigates the Philippines.

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ABROAD WANDER & BEYOND WELL

Clockwise from top: Crystal Endeavor suites feature spacious balconies; onboard dining is sourced with fresh, seasonal cuisine; sunrise in Bali.

CRUISING HAS COME A LONG WAY SINCE THE OLD DAYS.

Today, the modern passenger is looking for luxury, adventure, exclusivity, and style—and at the forefront of that ambitious checklist is Crystal, the California-based company that has become the go-to for travelers who thought they’d never love to cruise (or at least, not while they’re still so young).

And now, the brand—which has pioneered luxury ocean and river cruising, as well as intimate yachting in exotic locales—is pushing the envelope even further by getting into the expedition game.

More and more, people are looking for exotic destinations and immersive experiences, so it’s only natural that they would want that in cruising. But in the past, the expedition segment of the cruising industry has generally been on smaller and older ships. Today, luxury is an integral aspect.

SUITE STYLE

Set to launch in 2020, Crystal’s new 200-passenger Crystal Endeavor® will offer the best of both worlds: A strong and lithe vessel that can go almost anywhere—from pole to pole and plenty of elusive waters in-between—as well as a floating five-star hotel with 100 expansive suites tended by vigilant butlers and ample amenities that include more than 2,000 square feet of wellness facilities and an impressive gourmet lineup of Michelin-inspired dining. Recognizing the younger—and young-at-heart—clientele embarking on expedition cruises, Crystal went allin for a decidedly contemporary look, incorporating marble accent walls, light wood paneling, and custom furnishings with a hint of art-deco inspiration (quite the improvement on the classic dark woods and nautical themes of yore). In the Expedition Suite, guests might even

The Ross Sea Expedition will take travelers on a 22-night trip from Tasmania through the Ross Sea— the first time any luxury cruise ship has charted these waters.

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Crystal’s new 200-passenger Crystal Endeavor will be the best of both worlds: A strong and lithe vessel that can go almost anywhere, as well as a floating five-star hotel with 100 expansive suites. forget they’re on a ship at all: The 1,290-squarefoot accommodation features two bedrooms, a living room and dining room, a spacious bathroom with double vanities and a soaking tub, and a 735-square-foot wraparound veranda.

FAR-FLUNG AMBITION

Of course, Crystal Endeavor isn’t just about what it has—but where it goes. Built to navigate giant caps of ice just as easily as it can maneuver narrow fjords and passages, the ship is up for epic

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expeditions of nearly any kind. Small but mighty, it can just as easily sail to Antarctica through the notoriously mercurial Drake Passage as it can slip into the waters surrounding Indonesia’s Raja Ampat National Park, typically sailed only by gulets and yachts. Such flexibility makes for some incredible itineraries, all of which are launching in 2021 with the Crystal Endeavor Collection. On a journey from Tai Pei to Bali, the ship will make stops in Bangkok, Borneo, and even Komodo to glimpse the island’s legendary dragons, while on the 19-night Russian

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Elevated Plates When it comes to your taste buds, you won’t need to leave Crystal Endeavor for an adventure. The 10-deck ship (with decks three to eight accommodating guests) will feature a diverse selection of epicurean experiences, so whether you’re in the Arctic Circle or Australia’s Turquoise Bay, you’ll have options. Chief among them will be chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s Umi Uma, a sushi bar celebrating the master’s signature Japanese-Peruvian cuisine in a chic space adorned with wall carvings depicting marine life. There Clockwise from left: The Crystal Endeavor is built to cruise the most remote locales; the ship’s unique solarium; Tasmania, Australia.

will be more fine dining at the ItalianMediterranean Prego (featuring the Vintage Room with

Far East and Aleutian Isles expedition, a stop among the remote Siberian Islands will include a site where the remains of woolly mammoths and saber-toothed tigers have been found.

CHILL FACTOR

And for the seasoned adventurer who wants to see Antarctica in an ambitious new way, the Ross Sea Expedition will take travelers on a 22-night trip from Tasmania through the Ross Sea—the first time any luxury cruise ship has charted these waters—to rarely visited parts of the White Desert, including the place where explorer

Ernest Shackleton constructed his barebones hut during his fateful crossing of the continent from 1914 to 1917. For guests on board Crystal Endeavor, the discovery will no doubt be a thrill, especially considering how luxurious their own accommodations are by contrast.

chef’s tasting menus and exclusive wine pairings) and Michelininspired Waterside.

Passengers can also go for afternoon tea in the elegant Palm Court, casual lunch in the European bistro, or breezy breakfast in the two-story solarium

Digital Download. Visit the website on

Marketplace.

the back cover and enter OFFER EW18887 to uncover adventures on Crystal Esprit.

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THE ADVENTURER: Visit Anse Mamin Plantation, part of Jade Mountain’s 600-acre sister Anse Chastanet Resort. Eight miles of bike trails wind through tropical vegetation and historical remains that date back to the plantation’s 18th-century beginnings. Towering over 2,600 feet above the sea, the peak of Gros Piton beckons. The hike to the top is moderate to steep and can take up to four hours. Begin in the center of the town of Fond Gens Libres (Valley of the Free People) and progress steeply upslope. Many guides are descendants of the brigands (black freedom fighters) that used the Gros Piton as a haven during the 1948 slave rebellion.

Ocean Bound Ready for sun-kissed afternoons and umbrella cocktails? The Caribbean is calling …

BY MEREDITH DIERS

ST. LUCIA

The allure of the Eastern Caribbean nation of St. Lucia is anchored in its incredible landscape, defined by calm, turquoise blue waters juxtaposed by the dramatic Piton mountains. Combine that with the island’s French and English history and a vacation here is primed for posh play. While the coast claims volcanic beaches, iconic reef dives, and luxury retreats, a trip inland reveals a lush rainforest and the famous Toraille Waterfall.

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THE ROMANTIC: A romantic spa ritual for couples, the Alchemy of Two at Jade Mountain starts with a hot tub soak infused with Body Bliss Elixir Male and Elixir Female Oils, followed by a synchronous massage.

It concludes with a gender-specific elixir to open energy gateways. Or, every Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday, Sugar Beach, A Viceroy Resort offers a Champagne Sunset Cruise. Take a relaxing boat ride on Sugar Beach’s yacht while sipping champagne and watching the sun cast its brilliant yellow and orange hues across the ocean.

Opposite, from top: Sugar Beach, A Viceroy Resort; Jade Mountain Resort in St. Lucia.

From top: The right kind of blues along Turks & Caicos; The Restaurant at Amanyara.

THE FOODIE: Jade Mountain Club features modern fusion by James Beard award winner Chef Allen Susser, while the Coal Pot, convenient if you’re staying in Castries, is a hot spot for the most discerning diners. Known for Caribbean-influenced dishes, try the mahi mahi in lemon-butter sauce and the locally inspired Lucian callaloo soup.

THE WELLNESS SEEKER: Two morning yoga classes are held daily—one at Jade Mountain and the other on Anse Chastanet’s beach. Also spend an afternoon at the Viceroy’s Rainforest Spa. Harnessing the nourishing ingredients of nearby volcanic springs and fertile cocoa plantations, its range of signature treatments include bamboo massage, hot rock therapies, salt scrubs, and holistic treatments.

TURKS AND CAICOS

Once you experience the hues of blue waters found along the coast of the Turks and Caicos, you’ll most likely be dreaming of a return trip. Home to the famous Grace Bay Beach and the Northwest Point Marine National park, this chain of 40 islands ensures fun for couples, families, and the intrepid solo traveler.

THE ADVENTURER: Visit Amanyara Resort’s Nature Discovery Center, where guests discover wildlife through guided hikes, snorkeling, and the Adopt-

A-Coral program. With guidance from the resort’s resident naturalist, learn how to catch flipper tag and release turtles. Spend a day lazing on the sand at Half Moon Bay, accessed only by boat.

THE ROMANTIC: Enjoy a romantic dinner at Infiniti Restaurant & Raw Bar at Grace Bay Club. Start with the Mahi Mahi Carpaccio, followed by the local Strawberry Grouper, and after dessert take a starlit stroll along the shore.

THE FOODIE: Arguably the best restaurant in Provo (the main island), Da Conch Shack and Rum Bar is worth more than one meal, as is Mr. Groupers’— an island standout for fresh seafood. Find incredible fine dining at Seven Restaurant at Seven Stars Resort & Spa, while a handcrafted cocktail and conch fritters at the famed Hemingway’s is a must, too.

THE WELLNESS SEEKER: Aman Spa overlooks a large reflecting pond with lush vegetation surrounding the four treatment pavilions. Experience one of the signature smoking ceremonies.

Stemming from the ancient Egyptians and Native Americans, this treatment calms and centers with smoke from different woods and resins that have particular healing powers.

Beach Bliss. For more info on sun and sand, enter OFFER M19868 on the website found on the back cover.

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Isles Away Lindblad Expeditions uncovers a secret world of ancient history and unrivaled beauty in French Polynesia.

EVERYTHING IN FRENCH POLYNESIA

LOOKS LIKE IT’S MADE FROM FLOWERS— the clothes, the hats, the jewelry, the boats— so when you first arrive, it’s easy to imagine you’ve perhaps stumbled into a magnificent secret garden. Even underwater, when you’re drift-snorkeling, floating along the surface of the water as the current carries you through the South Pass of Fakarava, the world seems to be made up only of vibrant colors and magical beings. But the natural beauty of the South Pacific runs even 54

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deeper when you’re on one of Lindblad Expeditions’ journeys through the Marquesas Islands. The journeys uncover the hidden splendor of French Polynesia beyond its incredible flora and fauna to its lesser-known people and ancient history—much of which remains hidden away from tourism to this day.

The Marquesas experience is the passion project of SvenOlof Lindblad. The founder and CEO of Lindblad Expeditions grew up listening to his father’s tales of Easter Island—the senior Lindblad founded his family’s business in 1958, and brought some of the first travelers to the remote destination in the 1970s. Such stories planted the seeds of curiosity early

ABROAD & BEYOND

Opposite: Paddleboarding along French Polynesia’s incredible coast. From top: Moai in Ahu Tongariki on Easter Island; traditional dance celebrates a storied past.

A Star is Born Not every ship can make it this far into the Marquesas—but National Geographic Orion is small and nimble enough to navigate into the shallow atolls that have eluded cruise ships for decades. Still, the 51-cabin vessel is more than a functional wonder. Inside, it’s more like a superyacht than a traditional cruise ship, featuring intimate dining and lounge spaces, ample observation decks, and, for daily expeditions, a fleet of stand-up paddleboards, kayaks and Zodiacs, including a glass-bottom one for “dry” undersea exploring.

in Lindblad’s youth, and that interest only blossomed further in the late ’80s when he made his own journey to the South Pacific on a sailing barque from Easter Island to Tahiti with the famed anthropologist Bengt Danielsson. On that fateful expedition, Lindblad learned what cannot be studied from afar: the culture, beliefs, and mythology of one of the world’s most fascinating—and least visited—places. “It is surely one of the greatest chapters in human history,” he says, “as deserving of attention as any of the other mythic civilizations we studied.”

Thus, Lindblad has crafted a series of expeditions onboard National Geographic Orion to build on his own maiden voyage.

The itineraries offer rare experiences like watching traditional dance performances on Nuku Hiva Island and getting up close and personal with ancient petroglyphs in sacred maraes (so close, in fact, you could practically trace the tortoise carved into the lichened rock). For those as intrepid as Lindblad himself, there’s also swimming with gray reef sharks in the Fakarava Atoll—one of the top scuba destinations in the world—and diving into the underwater caves of Makatea, where the water is so pure you can drink it. Along the way, experts are on hand to further bring the story to life, whether its Cristina Mittermeier, a biologist and National Geographic photographer; Jacob Edgar, Orion’s traveling ethnomusicologist expert in French Polynesian music; or Tua Pittman, a native chieftain and master navigator.

Many of these experiences are a first for any traveler: Last year, Orion became the first cruise ship to reach several of the atolls and lagoons in the Marquesas.

To hear Lindblad tell it, that’s as much a personal achievement as a professional one. “I find the region utterly joyous, beautiful, and fascinating; the people, the land and sea, and particularly the undersea,” he says. “There’s so much to love about it.”

Posh Polynesia Enter OFFER M19817 on the website found on the back cover, and get ready for island bliss.

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BESPOKE

From left: Scallops and Dom Perignon served aboard an Oceania cruise; excursions include outings to historic statues and sites; nights onboard call for tasty dinners for two; Senior Executive Chef Laurent Trias.

Trip of the Tongue Oceania Cruises is taking your taste buds on a journey to remember.

BY JACKIE CARADONIO IF THE DINING ROOM WEREN’T SWAYING EVER SO GENTLY FROM SIDE TO SIDE, WE MIGHT HAVE COMPLETELY FORGOTTEN WE WERE ON A BOAT IN THE FIRST PLACE. La Reserve—the elegant

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and exclusive restaurant on Oceania’s Riviera and Marina ships—had taken us to France in a matter of minutes (never mind the fact that we were cruising through the middle of the Mediterranean).

That’s because the second we arrived for our 7 o’clock reservation, we were drinking in the flavors of Champagne—Dom Perignon Champagne to be exact. It would be six more courses (and six more vintages) before we’d have to return to our staterooms—and somewhere just off the coast of Valencia.

Of course, Oceania is in the business of transporting: Its six ships take travelers to more than 450 destinations, from Buenos Aires to Bora Bora, every year. But the Miami-based cruise company has earned a reputation for transporting its guests via their taste buds, too, with hyper-local food tours, an on-board culinary academy, and innovative partnerships with Michelin chefs. This year, the brand is upping its gastronomic game

BESPOKE

By the Numbers Oceania knows the way to your heart isn’t only through your stomach—it’s through amazing new adventures, too. Come 2020, you’ll have plenty to choose from, with dozens of first-time voyages across Europe and the Americas.

Here, a glimpse of the highlights.

2020 Regatta, Insignia, Nautica, and Sirena will sail their first complete seasons after extensive renovations.

10 Journeys to Turkey with calls in Istanbul, Ephesus, and Antalya.

even further with a collection of new epicurean experiences, the first of which occurs every night, right on the ship.

The Dom Perignon Experience Menu is like any other hot reservation in town: hard to get and impossible to forget. So we reserved our table before we even stepped foot on Marina, lest all 26 seats at La Reserve be booked up every night of our cruise. The advance planning was worth it, not only for the exclusive sips of 2004, 2006, and 2009 vintages of blanc de blanc and rosé, but also for the cuisine, which, overseen by resident master chef Jacques Pepin, took us on another trip around the world, from Mexico and France for the first course (scallops Rossini with mole sauce) to Japan and France again for dessert (cherryblossom-tea ice cream and lemon caviar). Along the way, each dish was perfectly paired thanks to a team of experts that included Oceania’s gurus from Wine Spectator and Dom Perignon’s own experts of the vine.

Oceania is taking guests to plenty of new, hands-on vineyard experiences. Its collection of culinary journeys is delving deeper into the foodie universe than ever before (and that’s saying something). In Madeira, that means a wine-making tour in a 17th-century monastery; in St. Petersburg, it’s vodka and roe at Russia’s most famous caviar bar. No destination has been forgotten, from market tours in Sicily, Provence, and even Helsinki, to once-in-a-lifetime experiences like coffee in Peter the Great’s summer residence in Estonia. Indeed, there’s no better way to bond with a destination than by devouring every sweet, salty, and savory flavor.

Digital Download. Want to take a deep dive into

3 Voyages to Israel aboard Sirena, Riviera, and Nautica, with calls in Jerusalem, Haifa, and Ashdod.

7 Voyages to the wine countries of west Europe, all of which include an overnight in Bordeaux.

6 “Open-jaw”

itineraries between Vancouver and Seward aboard Regatta.

2 New Icelandic voyages aboard Insignia, including a Reykjavik-to-NewYork sailing.

Oceania’s lauded culinary programs? Enter OFFER EW18887 on the website found on the back cover.

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BESPOKE

Ireland: Farm to Fork Discover the many epicurean enchantments of the Emerald Isle. BY JACKIE CARADONIO LADY DUNLEATH’S GARDENS ARE A SIGHT TO BEHOLD. There are Victorian greenhouses filled with succulents and climbing vines, walled gardens crammed with vegetables and herbs, almond trees, lemon groves, and even a 200-year-old fig. Depending on the season, there are fresh leeks and potatoes, artichokes and carrots, apricots and nectarines. It’s all found at Ballywalter Park, the 18th-century Northern Ireland estate that Lady Dunleath shares with Lord Dunleath—and, on occasion, the interested house guest with a love for ultra-fresh cuisine.

For years, the Dunleaths have opened their home and gardens to intimate groups for tours and lunches—no small affair by any means.

Every menu is custom, and every ingredient comes from either right outside the manse’s 58

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Italianate doors, or small, local suppliers such as the fishermen working the nearby Ballywalter harbor. Along with carefully plated masterpieces—butternut squash soup, freshly baked focaccia, and crab cakes—come the vintages, all 3,000 of them carefully resting in the Dunleaths’ wine cellar, and many so rare they were sourced at auction from Sotheby’s.

The Dunleaths are part of a small population of culinary purists throughout the island of Ireland who are creating special experiences from tide to table, from farm to fork, and from distillery to dram. Of course, when you consider all the things that make the Emerald Isle so beloved—the rolling hills, the opulent history, the whiskey—it’s no wonder the country has a strong culinary game.

But the scene is a far cry from the trendsetters of New York or Paris or Copenhagen: Here, it’s not about flashy chefs touting newfangled philosophies in gastronomy. This is a country of perfectionists, where the ingredients are as fresh and native as the preparations are steeped in tradition. And the feast at Ballywalter Park is only the beginning: From a master class in old whiskey to a classic steak that many consider to be the world’s best, here are four more ways to elegantly eat your way through Ireland.

Opposite: The elegant Adare Manor Hotel in Limerick. From top: Driving along the Antrim Coast is one of the world’s most famous road trips; O’Brien’s Tower marks the highest point of the Cliffs of Moher.

A SINGULAR STEAK

It’s been said that there’s a danger in trying your first Glenarm Shothorn fillet—because once you’ve had one, all other steak will pale in comparison.

The cut, which comes from the 13th-century Glenarm Castle Estate in the Glens of Antrim in Northern Ireland, is no ordinary piece of meat.

Made from Shorthorn bulls—a traditional beef with plenty of provenance in Ireland—the fillets are dry-aged for four weeks in a custom aging chamber containing a solid wall of Himalayan rock salt imported all the way from Pakistan’s Punjab region. It’s a careful process that yields a rare and revered steak that many of the world’s top chefs clamor to showcase in their own restaurants. But you can get it straight from the source when you visit Glenarm Castle Estate.

WHISKEY WONDER

Whether you’re after a stiff drink or a history lesson, Adare Manor in Limerick County is the place to get acquainted with Irish whiskey. The 19th-century castle turned luxury resort hosts master tasting classes in its grand Tack Room cellar bar, where

more than 100 rare bottles are stored. The local bounty includes everything from Midleton Very Rare to Knappogue Castle 36 Year (two of the finest examples of Irish whiskey around), while the international selection ranges from Japan’s Nikka Single Malt Miyagikyo 15 Year to American favorites like Elijah Craig and Woodford.

HIGH DINING

County Clare’s famous Cliffs of Moher rise some 700 feet above the Atlantic Ocean, and atop the highest point is O’Brien’s Tower, a historic watchtower that has welcomed travelers since 1835 and is located along the famous Wild Atlantic Way drive. For the gourmand who wants a private view over Galway Bay, the tower offers private dinners where fresh seafood and hot whiskey are on the menu—and a classic Celtic harpist provides the sundown entertainment.

The following morning, continue along the Wild Atlantic Way, a journey of soaring cliffs, charming towns, hidden beaches, and epic bays. Whether driving it from end-to-end or navigating certain sections, it’s a once-in-alifetime experience.

GO FISH

The Ballynahinch Catchment is home to one of Ireland’s greatest congregations of salmon and sea trout—and it just so happens to run right beneath the Ballynahinch Castle. Thus, the Galway resort has become an angler’s fantasy camp, where catching your own, and having it cooked and served to you as soon as it’s off the hook, is a source of pride and pleasure. For a real trophy, head to Ballynahinch in the summer and set your sights on grilse—very large salmon that have been at sea all winter. They’re the biggest (and most delicious) catch you’ll find in these parts.

All Seasons on the Emerald Isle

Summer in Ireland is beautiful—but so is spring, fall, and winter, when there’s the advantage of fewer crowds and affordability when traveling during offpeak times. According to Ker & Downey, there’s no bad time to head to the Emerald Isle (which, as its nickname suggests, is always green).

That’s especially true if you’re on the travel outfitter’s The Foodie’s Ireland itinerary, a private eight-night experience that begins in Cork and stops at the Old Jameson Distillery, then two days at Ballyvolane, which showcases a gin distillery, and the Dunbrody Country House, combining Irish heritage with a unique culinary atmosphere. Next up is Kilkenny at BrookLodge, with a VIP tour at Smithwick’s, followed by a connoisseur’s private experience at the Guinness Storehouse in Dublin. Cheers!

All Access. If the Emerald Isle is on your travel wish list, visit the website found on the back cover and enter OFFER M19869.

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Lessons in a life well lived Sobremesa GRAN MELIĂ

Sobremesa: that moment when, after lunch, relaxation leads you to a great conversation. The essence of Spanish culture is hard to teach, but easy to learn: simple pleasures, connection to the land, respect for things well done and subtle elegance in every detail.

As we call it, Lessons in a life well lived.

A life well lived

ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES

September 2019

NEXT LEVEL New Zealand Page 62

SITE PLAN

Photographer Gray Malin Page 70

IN PURSUIT OF PLAY Borneo Page 78

Gray Malin’s birds-eye view of Block Island’s Crescent Beach, located on Rhode Island.

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A Tale of Two Islands WHILE NAVIGATING NEW ZEALAND’S MOST ICONIC SITES AND LANDSCAPES ON ITS NORTH AND SOUTH ISLANDS, IGNACIO MAZA DISCOVERS A COUNTRY RICH IN HERITAGE AND HOSPITALITY.

t’s not very often—some might say a rarity—when you discover a destination that checks all the boxes for the many traveler types. Nature lover? Adventurist?

Wellness seeker? Gourmand?

History buff? Welcome to New Zealand. And since the country spans only 268,838 square kilometers—roughly the same size as Colorado—you really can do it all.

New Zealand is defined by its wild, rugged and jaw-droppingly beautiful wilderness—dramatic fjords, active volcanoes, crystalclear beaches, and alpine peaks soaring 12,000 feet into the sky. Some will argue that this is reason enough to plan a trip. Yet New Zealand is also a haven for 62

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outdoor pursuits, from the approachable and amenable like hiking, golf, fishing, and sailing to the hair-raising, exhilarating activities.

After all, this country invented bungee jumping, jet boating, and zorbing (that’s rolling downhill inside a giant transparent ball), so if ever there was a place for an adrenaline rush, it’s here.

When all that is said and done, you may need some down time, and both the North and South islands are chock-full of refined luxury resorts.

As for the food and wine scene, it’s flourishing. More and more local chefs, such as Sid Sahrawat, Ben Bayly, and Mark Southon are lauded for creative menus that source fresh ingredients and local flavors. Try fish such as blue warehou and paua, paired with an award-winning wine from such exceptional regional labels as Giesen or Greywacke.

And then there’s the country’s rich history. About 800 years ago, the Maori, the indigenous Polynesian people, settled New Zealand.

They named it “Aotearoa,” which literally translates to “land of the long white cloud.” Today, the country’s storied past is celebrated up and down its vibrant coasts and in the heart of its cities.

What’s more, getting around is easy, with frequent and reliable domestic flights, an excellent and well-maintained roadway network, and a squadron of helicopters ready to whisk you from place to place. Add New Zealand’s memorable places to stay, its warm and friendly communities, a favorable exchange rate, vibrant cities like Auckland and Wellington, and now’s the time to pack your bags.

From top: The South Island’s iconic Milford Sound; massive redwoods in the North Island’s Rotorua call for exploration.

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QUEENSTOWN

I started my journey in Queenstown, the southernmost point of my itinerary.

Surrounded by the Remarkables Mountain Range and set on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown is a must for any New Zealand visitor. Coined the “Global Adventure Capital,” the city offers just about every outdoor pursuit possible. It’s also the main gateway to Milford Sound, an iconic New Zealand site and part of Fiordland National Park, the country’s most rugged and impenetrable wilderness. The sight of 5,000-foot-high peaks rising from clear waters, cascades

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rushing down mountainsides, and lush rainforests with snow and glaciers at higher elevations, is truly mesmerizing. Rather than driving five hours each way from Queenstown to Milford, I took a helicopter flight, which got me there in less than an hour and provided an aerial view of the awe-inspiring beauty. On the return flight, the pilot touched down on an alpine glacier—the ultimate photo opportunity.

Glenorchy, a small village at the north end of Lake Wakatipu and the gateway for the Routeburn Track—the rainforest subalpine trail that’s one of New Zealand’s nine “Great Walks”—could rival Queenstown’s beauty.

Don’t miss experiencing the Dart River Wilderness via jet boat, a thrilling white-knuckle ride up river.

Clockwise from left: Decadent scallops served at Whitebait Restaurant in Wellington; taking in the vistas of Milford Sound; views for days in Queenstown; Blanket Bay resort, located on the shores of Lake Wakatipu.

WHERE TO STAY: In Queenstown, I loved Azur, a modern luxury lodge consisting of nine individual villas with superb lake and mountain views from both the bedroom and bathtub. If seeking a central location, stay at Sofitel Queenstown, which features hospitality with a French twist. In Glenorchy, I stayed at Blanket Bay, one of New Zealand’s finest luxury lodges and a destination unto itself. The resort is nestled on a 60-acre estate and was built in the style of a grand alpine lodge. Expect a soaring living room with a cozy fireplace, excellent dining and service, and comfortable rooms with stunning views of Lake Wakatipu. Make time to swim in the outdoor lap pool, located in the shadow of the mountains.

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MARLBOROUGH SOUNDS

My next stop was Marlborough Sounds, a labyrinth of bays, beaches, and green mountains located at the north end of the South Island. This area is heaven for sailors and fishing enthusiasts. It’s also a gateway to New Zealand’s premier wine region and the Queen Charlotte Track, one of my favorite hiking trails that meanders 40 miles through beautiful coastal scenery. Also a must: visiting Ship Cove, Captain Cook’s preferred anchorage, as well as Motuara Island, a bird sanctuary home to some of New Zealand’s rarest species.

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WHERE TO STAY: Bay of Many Coves. This luxury lodge features an idyllic waterfront location, perfect seclusion, and pure relaxation. Enjoy outstanding dining, regional wines, and water views from terraced apartments. My favorite experience? Kayaking at sunrise on the still waters of the sounds.

KAIKOURA

Before leaving the South Island, I explored Kaikoura, one of the finest places in the world for spotting seals, dolphins, and sperm whales in their natural environment. For an unforgettable adventure, swim with pods of dusky dolphins off the coast.

WHERE TO STAY: Hapuku Lodge + Tree Houses, a contemporary resort composed of a main lodge and five treehouses, each suspended 30 feet from the ground and outfitted with every comfort imaginable.

From left: Speeding through the Shotover River in Queenstown; the contemporary Hapuku Lodge + Tree Houses; Ignacio Maza awaits an unforgettable adventure in Rotorua.

ROTORUA

From Kaikoura, I flew to Rotorua, the heartland of Maori culture and the center of New Zealand’s volcanic activity, including geysers and hot springs. I witnessed geothermal wonders at Wai-O-Tapu and was amazed by the active geysers at Te Puia. I also recommend walking through the Redwoods Forest, located adjacent to the Whakarewarewa thermal area. Trek from tree to tree via suspended wood bridges located high off the ground. The region’s many lakes make this area a perfect base for fishing, rafting, hiking, and mountain biking. And my ultimate experience? A helicopter flight over the Bay of Plenty to White Island, New Zealand’s most active volcano. I felt as if I were on another planet while navigating the strange and eerie terrain near the crater. On the way back, our pilot stopped at the summit of Mount Tarawera for an unforgettable hike with 360-degree views.

WHERE TO STAY: In Taupo, stay at Huka Lodge, arguably New Zealand’s best-known luxury retreat that has been hosting guests, including Queen Elizabeth II, for nearly 100 years. The lodge is located on the Waikato River (the largest river in New Zealand) just above Huka Falls. In Rotorua, I have U LT I M AT E E X P E R I E N C E S

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two recommendations: If you want to feel immersed in a vast wildlife sanctuary, stay at Treetops Lodge & Estate, a 2,500-acre property with enormous rooms and villas. The area’s native forests, lakes, and streams offer endless activities on and off property. During your stay, hike to Bridal Veil Falls and take a 4WD safari to the far corners of the estate. For superb views from every room in a privileged, intimate setting, stay at Solitaire Lodge, located on a peninsula on Lake Tarawera. Enjoy kayaking and speedboat adventures, accessed right from the lodge’s pier.

BAY OF ISLANDS

My next stop was the Bay of Islands, a region of countless beaches, turquoise waters, and more than 100 islands. It’s also a land steeped in history, including Russell, the first permanent European settlement and seaport 68

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in New Zealand, and the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, which commemorates the site where Maori chiefs signed the treaty with the British crown. The Museum of Waitangi is moving, celebrating what the treaty meant to New Zealanders in both the past and present.

WHERE TO STAY: The premier resort in this region is The Lodge at Kauri Cliffs. Access private beaches, 6,000 acres of farmland and forest, horseback riding, and golf at one of the world’s top 50 courses, all hosted by a welcoming, caring team.

AUCKLAND

Before returning to the U.S., I visited Auckland, New Zealand’s largest city and commercial hub. While in Auckland more than 100 years ago, author Rudyard Kipling wrote that the city was

Insider Tips Ignacio reveals the essentials of a New Zealand dream trip.

From left: An artist perfects his Māori-inspired work; the scenic Bay of Islands, with dramatic beaches and 100 islands; The Lodge at Kauri Cliffs accesses forests and farmland.

> Plan 8-9 months

to three nights.

in advance for high

You typically need

season (December

a day to enjoy all

to February), and at

that the lodges

least 4-6 months

have to offer.

for the rest of

> Be flexible.

the year. Demand

Many of New

exceeds supply.

outdoor activities

weather, especially

are weather

on the South Island,

dependent, so

where you can

be prepared to

experience four

change your plans

seasons in one day.

on short notice.

> Consider traveling

> Less is more.

during the shoulder

Stay at fewer

season, especially

places and enjoy a

March to May, which

richer experience

is New Zealand’s

at each location.

fall season. Fewer crowds, better value.

WHERE TO STAY: Auckland’s finest hotel is Sofitel Auckland Viaduct Harbour, which faces the Waitemata Basin in the heart of the waterfront district. Enjoy bright guestrooms with floorto-ceiling glass windows and modern design.

> Resist the temptation to combine New

> Include at least

Zealand and

one helicopter

Australia. There is

flight in your

enough to see and

itinerary, for

do in New Zealand

three reasons:

to keep you busy

breathtaking

for a month.

views, to save

“last, loneliest, loveliest, exquisite, apart.” I agree.

Set between two harbors, Auckland was built on hills and dormant volcanoes and is embraced by the southern hemisphere’s largest marina. I most enjoyed the view from Mount Eden, the city’s diverse neighborhoods, its black-sand beaches along the west coast, and dining at outstanding restaurants in the vibrant Britomart and Wynyard Quarters.

Two musts: A visit to the Auckland Art Gallery, and a day trip (just a short ferry ride) to Waiheke Island’s beaches and 30 vineyards.

Zealand’s

> Dress for any

time, and to reach remote locations inaccessible by road.

> US citizens need an E.T.A. (Electronic Travel Authority), starting October

> When staying

2019, prior to

at lodges, book a

arriving in New

minimum of two

Zealand.

Digital Download. If this country’s enchanting vistas and unique culture are on your travel wish list, enter OFFER EW18887 on the website on the back cover.

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THE GRAY

ZONE

ON THE HEELS OF HIS NEW BOOK, ITALY , PHOTOGRAPHER GRAY MALIN REVEALS HIS OBSESSION WITH TRAVEL , AND JUST WHAT IT TAKES TO GET THAT PERFECT SHOT .

BY ERIN LENTZ

LA FONTELINA FROM ABOVE, CAPRI. “I shot this image dangling from a helicopter over Capri. It was beautiful to see the umbrellas spotted along the rocky terrain below.”

THERE’S

SIMPLY SOMETHING

ABOUT THE SEA

—ITS ABILITY TO FUEL EMOTION, EVOKE WONDER, OR MAKE US FEEL CONNECTED TO SOMETHING LARGER THAN OURSELVES— THAT STIRS THE SOUL.

OIA, SANTORINI, SUNSET TRIPTYCH “In order to achieve this shot, I had to climb up to a high perch alongside many other travelers to get just the right angle to create a perfect triptych of three vertical images.

It was simply breathtaking.”

SURFER, ST. BARTHS “This is one of those perfectly timed images where you are able to capture a beautiful action-filled moment that can never quite be recreated.”

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FOR CELEBRITY PHOTOGRAPHER GRAY MALIN, the beach has always been a source of motivation.

Famous for his aerials, Malin’s collective portfolio also spans animals, ski resorts, and posh hotels, among other art-of-travel inspo. The 33-year-old artist, who got his start peddling prints in L.A and now is internationally acclaimed, has framed unique perspectives of the fabulously fun. Following the release of his new book, ITALY, I caught up with the chic wayfarer, who is more often than not harnessed to a helicopter to frame travel’s most iconic and offthe-beaten-path destinations.

WHAT MAKES ITALY UNIQUE TO YOUR OTHER BOOKS? This is the first time I’ve done a book devoted solely to one country, which speaks to my love affair with Italy. The book brings to life my journey through Italy, spanning six years. Photographing it from different perspectives was incredible: from the ground for my series, “La Dolce Vita”and from the air for “Á la Plage” and my “Italian Geometric” series. I treasure the country’s rich culture, scenery, and enviable lifestyle, all of which I set out to capture for the book. Although I had places in mind that I wanted to shoot throughout these trips, I always ended up finding unexpected peaceful moments, colorful scenes, and incredible experiences that embodied the lifestyle of la dolce vita.

FAVORITE SPOT TO VACATION IN ITALY? Capri. It never gets old, and every time I go it seems to rival the beauty of the time I went before.

WHAT HAS BEEN THE MOST HAIR-RAISING SHOOT YOU’VE BEEN ON? It’s always an adventure! It’s thrilling to shoot from helicopters, but there’s always unpredictability with the weather, which can be tricky. Cold temperatures and winds are my biggest challenge. When I shot my series, “Snow Polo,” in St. Moritz, Switzerland, I could only stay in the helicopter in 20-minute intervals due to the extreme power of the freezing wind. Safety is always the number-one concern.

These kinds of shoots always end up being the most memorable; when the pictures turn out, I’m even more in awe of them, as I knew exactly how much work went into getting those shots.

WHAT’S NEXT? I’m releasing my first golf series about Pebble Beach and the famous 17-mile drive, along with images from Big Sur, Carmel, and Monterey. Pebble Beach is coveted by many and especially beloved by golf enthusiasts, so I’m thrilled to be extending my aerial work into this new landscape.

PHI PHI ISLAND, THAILAND “The charming boats in Thailand are what caught my eye for this particular shot taken above Phi Phi Island.”

POIPU BEACH, KAUAI “I grew up coming to this beach and I love its unique shape.

It also has great colors and lots of snorkelers.”

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And with the new Four Seasons Private Jet, which launches in 2020, guests may be snapping photos of the plane’s interiors and cuisine at almost the same speed as when they touch down.

What to expect? The outstanding attention to detail that has made Four Seasons properties famous, yet at 40,000 feet, and on a luxury Boeing 757. This means 52 flatbed leather seats handcrafted in Italy, a personal ottoman with storage, custom ambient lighting and venetian blinds, in-flight menus designed by a Four Seasons Executive Chef, and a Four Seasonstrained crew, among other top-tier amenities.

Jet Set. Enter OFFER M19870 on the website found on the back cover to further explore TCS World Travel itineraries.

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WILD BORNEO Searching for raw nature— and raw truth—amid the iconic fauna of this Southeast Asian island.

BY RICHARD BARNES

Left: A colorful rhinoceros hornbill is one of Borneo’s many wildlife sightings.

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Clockwise from top: A curious monkey at Sukau Rainforest Lodge; trekking across the rugged Mount Kinabalu, a UNESCO World Heritage site; Mulu National Park, located in Sarawak, Borneo.

A few years ago, when speaking with the Minister of Tourism and Culture for Malaysia, I asked the question, “Just what is being done to save the orangutans?” He told me that, in fact, laws had been passed by state governments in Sabah and Sarawak to limit or stop logging, and instead favoring tourism, aiming to save the habitat of the orangutan and other native fauna.

“Why aren’t you promoting this fact if indeed it is true?” I asked.

“That is up to the media,” he replied, sighing that much of the press only likes to underline the bad stuff, leaving do-gooders off to one side. At that point, I vowed that rather than take him on his word, I would discover for myself. Malaysian Borneo had been high on my bucket list for decades, thanks to longtime friend Ron Galimam, an artist from Sabah (whose great-grandfather was a headhunter!). So just what did I uncover? The vast wilderness of Borneo is much as Galimam had described, and the richness of its rare wildlife is one of its main draw cards.

We glide over the calm waters, ever so quietly.

Only the sound of the electric motor is heard. But then, listen closely, and the dense jungle around and above us reveals a curious variety of noises, both distant and near, while an ebbing, coppercolored light shimmers on the river.

“Look, up to the left,” whispers our guide. “In the crook of that dead branch.”

I squint for a long moment, unable to see a thing.

“At one o’clock. In the clearing, that tall dead tree. Top right.”

I finally spot it. A buffy fish owl, still dozing before heading out for its nocturnal hunting activities. It’s the first sighting of the evening’s discovery tour on the Kinabatangan River in eastern Sabah (Borneo), a destination renowned for its exceptional wildlife. Apart from the astonishing variety of birds in the region, Kinabatangan’s vast hinterland sanctuary is also one of only two areas in the world inhabited by 10 species of primate, four of which are endemic to Borneo.

The Kinabatangan district was just one stop on a recent tour I undertook of Sabah and Sarawak, otherwise known as Malaysian Borneo. Today, many of us associate Borneo with the various “save the orangutan” organizations dedicated to putting an end to the palm plantations that threaten the primates’ living space—so threatening that some say these iconic animals could be extinct in the wild within 10 years.

WILDLIFE + NATURE RESERVES BAKO NATIONAL PARK Our first “contact” is at Bako National Park, a short drive and boat ride from the state capital of Kuching. It’s Sarawak’s oldest national park and one of the best for wildlife sightings in the state. Within minutes we spot a family of iconic proboscis monkeys—endemic to Borneo— playing in the trees near the jetty. Bako is home to around 275 of these rare primates, found only in Borneo. Other wildlife sightings at Bako National Park include long-tailed macaques, silver leaf monkeys, bearded Borneo wild boar, and a green viper.

SEMENGGOH The following day, we visit Semenggoh Nature Reserve, located close to Kuching and home to a colony of semi-wild orangutans.

Until 2018 it was known as a rehab center, yet today it’s considered simply a reserve, as there are too few animals to be rehabilitated. At feeding time, visitors have a rare opportunity to watch the primates as they swing down from trees for a handout of fruits by specially trained handlers.

MALAYSIAN BORNEO: NOT TO BE MISSED The big primates are not found throughout Borneo (they remain solely in several isolated pockets), however, despite the absence of our furry cousins in the trees, don’t miss places like Mulu in Sarawak. Expect some of the most spectacular caves found anywhere on the globe, and incredible jungle walks in one of the world’s top-managed national parks. Additionally, Kota Kinabalu, the capital of Sabah state, is rich in colonial history and features excellent waterfront nightlife. Mount Kinabalu and its surrounding region should be on your check list, too, including the Sabah Tea plantation, where one can stay in topend accommodations. Lastly, the fabulous eastern islands around the diving paradise of Sipadan is a must, as is discovering Mabul, which is inhabited primarily by sea gypsies—a welcoming community of fishermen.

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EASTERN SABAH + SEPILOK ORANGUTAN REHABILITATION CENTRE Sukau Rainforest Lodge in Eastern Sabah was the first to be listed as a National Geographic Unique Lodge of the World in Malaysia and Borneo, and is an ideal base for wildlife tours, as attested by famed historian David Attenborough, who is said to love the property. It was built on the Kinabatangan River in the 1990s by Albert Teo, a pioneer in eco-tourism.

The lodge opened with just 20 rooms, yet in 2018, 20 new luxury suites debuted.

Teo explains, “Kinabatangan has often been compared to the Amazon, but it is very different. We have 10 species of primate and all the eight species of hornbill are found here, as well as the Borneo pigmy elephant. Because it is a wetland region, we have hundreds of bird species; some are endemic and almost extinct in other places.”

During the fruiting season, the visitor is almost guaranteed to see wild orangutans at the lodge, according to Teo. “We actually have resident orangutans here when the trees are fruiting,” he says.

“Kinabatangan has a great diversity of figs, which the orangutans love. It’s only in the past three to five years that orangutans have come to this land, feeding on the fruit trees here, so they don’t feel threatened by seeing travelers around.

The negative news about orangutans is, I believe, coming out of Kalimantan Borneo, more so than Sabah.

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SOLE SURF: PACKING TIPS When trekking through the rainforest, expect to get wet. In Borneo, when it rains, it pours.

When packing, be sure to bring a hat that can keep the rain from streaming down your face and neck. Rain ponchos are readily available in-situ, but one can also opt for simply getting wet, as the area is warm.

When it comes to footwear, those adept to Malaysian Borneo have a secret. You will notice virtually all guides—even those climbing Mount Kinabalu—wearing the same thing.

The locals refer to them jokingly as “Kampung Nikes.” On sale for less than US$2 a pair, these locally made, all-rubber shoes are, of course, not copies of those made by the famous brand, but have the advantage of being high-grip, comfortable and, most importantly, fast drying. Buy some in Kuching or Kota Kinabalu for your jungle adventures.

Sabah is very strong. Even along this river, I see orangutans more often than ever before. It’s quite incredible. It has become an oasis for the wildlife.”

The fact that development came slowly here is a blessing, adds Teo. “The infrastructure was slow in coming to this area, and this has helped preserve the biodiversity. Ecotourism came in as an employment alternative, as logging was over.

If the logging had still been active, we would have had an even greater threat. When the logging was over, the people converted the land to palm oil, so if we had not come in, it’s probable we would have lost more biodiversity. We are creating employment and are the ears and eyes on the ground.”

Around 15 miles north of Sandakan in eastern Sabah and covering 15.4 square miles of the Kabili-Sepilok Forest Reserve, the world-famous Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre welcomes orphaned and injured orangutans for rehabilitation before returning them to forest life.

In 2018, it’s estimated there were around 200 living in the reserve.

The center’s history dates back to the early 1960s, when it was opened by Barbara Harrison, wife of a museum curator in Borneo. Manager Sylvia Alsisto is matter-of-fact: “We cannot bring back the past but we can learn from the past.

The orangutan is a totally protected species and this message needs to come across strongly to the plantations. That’s the reason why awareness is very important and so is the role that Sepilok plays. The Malaysian Sustainable Palm Oil (MSPO) is working on involving all stakeholders towards a common goal of conservation and protection of wildlife and alongside with government agencies reaching out to the communities within plantations to explain how they can share the area with the orangutan. This involves understanding orangutan behavior and what action to take when encountering one in the estate.

So what should people do to help save these animals? “Come and visit Sabah,” Alsisto says. “Learn more and see the real scenario.

Nevertheless, for those who can’t come, it is important for to self-educate themselves on the current conservation issues because conservation is a complex and multi-faceted effort, and what we often hear is an over simplified or sensationalized version of events.”

Whether wanting to experience the storied wildlife, navigate dense rainforests, or immerse yourself in Malaysian Borneo’s unique culture, this rugged island’s incredible and unique terrain should rapidly climb your travel wish list.

Photo by Richard Barnes

The orangutan is one of the most talked about residents of Borneo.

Betting on Borneo.

Interested in wildlife conservation or rainforest trekking?

Enter OFFER M19871 on the website found on the back cover to discover the ultimate itinerary.

An oasis of luxury.

Blue skies. Midcentury modern cool. Nine cities, each with its own attitude and blend of excitement. Both destination and pop culture, exhilaration and chill.

Sit back and relax in endless days of sunshine and all the amenities you could ever imagine. Luxury. It’s where you choose to stay and where arrival is a welcome departure. Find your oasis.

Contact your Travel Advisor to book your next holiday.

TRAVEL ELEVATED

Beyond

VACATIONS p. 86 CRUISES p. 90 HOTELS & RESORTS

p. 94

Above: The sun bids farewell to the Old Town of Dubrovnik, Croatia.

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U N I T E D S TAT E S

Explore a tropical paradise and be captivated by local culture, scenic landscapes, sandy beaches, and warm water.

Dedicated to helping create the best possible vacation experience, Classic Vacations ensures you’re not only satisfied but completely delighted. With Classic Vacations, you’ll discover the difference between a good and great vacation. .

BELMOND EL ENCANTO

Santa Barbara, CA

This iconic hideaway is perched in the Santa Barbara Hills and offers amazing views of the Pacific Ocean. Low-key yet luxurious, relax poolside with a glass of local vino.

3-NIGHT VACATION INCLUDES: Terrace King Room accommodations; chef’s welcome amenity; $60 breakfast credit daily, per room and $150 dinner credit, per room, per stay.

Valid for new reservations made by 12/15/19 for select travel dates through 2/29/20 OFFER 1347312

THE LODGE AT BLUE SKY, AN AUBERGE RESORT

THE BEEKMAN, A THOMPSON HOTEL

Park City, UT

New York City, NY

The Lodge at Blue Sky is surrounded by nature and offers guests a modern take on the western adventure. A wide variety of activities include horseback riding, shooting clay, and wellness and spa experiences.

Located in the south of Manhattan, just a few blocks away from 9/11 Memorial and Wall Street, this historic hidden gem lies in a residential side street. Mix and mingle with locals, enjoy happy hour or a night out at the hotel’s hip speakeasy, “Alley Cat,” or indulge in a meal at the James Beard Award-winning restaurant.

3-NIGHT VACATION INCLUDES: Sky Room accommodations; choice of 60-minute massage for two or private horseback ride with picnic lunch.

Valid for new reservations made by 12/15/19 for select travel dates through 2/29/20 OFFER 1347335

3-NIGHT VACATION INCLUDES: Premium King Room accommodations and $50 food and beverage credit daily.

Valid for new reservations made by 12/15/19 for select travel dates through 2/29/20 OFFER 1347351

CALL OR VISIT THE WEBSITE, FOUND ON THE BACK COVER, FOR ADDITIONAL INFO + LATEST VACATION OFFERS. Amenities may vary by category and travel date. Restrictions, terms and conditions may apply.

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CENTRAL AMERICA, CARIBBEAN & MEXICO

Creating a truly memorable vacation is an art form. That’s why JourneseSM takes pride in partnering with travel advisors to craft the finest itineraries for discerning travelers. From soft-sand beaches to majestic mountains, enjoy peace of mind and exquisite value with Journese—the luxury brand of Pleasant Holidays.

EL DORADO MAROMA, A SPA RESORT BY KARISMA

Playa del Carmen, Mexico El Dorado Maroma, A Spa Resort by Karisma, offers an all-inclusive, adults-only, active, authentic, and luxurious vacation experience.

5-NIGHT VACATION INCLUDES: Overwater Bungalow accommodations; all-inclusive; private Chichen Itza excursion; Columbus lobster dinner cruise; private transfers and Cancun VIP Airport Lounge access.

Select travel dates through 12/15/19

• $100 couples Sky Massage credit, per room, per stay

• $10 wine credit per day

• Welcome amenities

• $60 credit towards candlelight dinner on the beach • Upgrade, early check-in and late check-out, subject to availability

W COSTA RICA – RESERVA CONCHAL

SUGAR BEACH, A VICEROY RESORT

Guanacaste, Costa Rica Natural elements harmonize with a modern sensibility throughout the resort. Lounge on the WET® pool deck or at the W Beach Club. Be pampered in AWAY® Spa. Work out at FIT and perfect your swing at Reserva Conchal Golf Course. Children will love playing in the Jungle Kids Club.

Sugar Beach, Saint Lucia This luxury Saint Lucia resort is set within over 100 acres of lush rainforest on the site of an 18th-century sugar plantation. The lushly landscaped grounds sweep down to the stunning white sand Sugar Beach and the glimmering Caribbean Sea. Be sure to indulge in a treatment at the calming rainforest spa.

5-NIGHT VACATION INCLUDES: Spectacular Ocean View Escape Guestroom accommodations; private catamaran adventure; Arenal Volcano & Baldi Springs excursion and private transfers.

5-NIGHT VACATION INCLUDES: Sugar Mill luxury guestroom accommodations; butler service; treetop zip trip; Piton sunset cruise and private transfers.

Select travel dates through 2/29/20 OFFER 1345050

Select travel dates through 12/15/19

• Breakfast daily • $100 resort credit

• Upgrade, early check-in and late check-out, subject to availability OFFER 1345049

OFFER 1345122

CALL OR VISIT THE WEBSITE, FOUND ON THE BACK COVER, FOR ADDITIONAL INFO + LATEST VACATION OFFERS. Amenities may vary by category and travel date. Restrictions, terms and conditions may apply.

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CANADA

Rocky Mountaineer takes you on a journey unlike any other. Ride along miles of train tracks through the Canadian wilderness and take in views of the pristine countryside. Enjoy panoramic views from the glassdome windows creating the ultimate sightseeing experience. With impeccable service, delicious onboard cuisine, and iconic destinations, this is more than a luxury trip. It’s a feast for the senses.

JOURNEY THROUGH THE CLOUDS MOUNTAIN ADVENTURES

FIRST PASSAGE TO THE WEST HIGHLIGHTS & VANCOUVER ISLAND

This mountain adventure package pairs CMH Heli-Skiing & Summer Adventures with your Rocky Mountaineer rail experience.

Travel via a luxury, high-speed catamaran to Victoria for two days in British Columbia’s garden capital, returning to Vancouver on a scenic seaplane flight.

9-NIGHT ITINERARY: Vancouver, Kamloops, Jasper, Fraser-Fort George H, Banff, Calgary

9-NIGHT ITINERARY: Vancouver, Victoria, Vancouver, Kamloops, Banff, Calgary

VACATION INCLUDES: Two days onboard Rocky Mountaineer (GoldLeaf Service), including gourmet cuisine onboard; nine-night hotel accommodation; 2 1⁄2 days of guided hiking CMH Cariboos; Calgary Tower; Panoramic Helicopter Tour; Banff Gondola; Icefields Parkway Tour including Ice Explorer; Vancouver Lookout; National Parks Pass; rail station transfers and luggage handling.

VACATION INCLUDES: Two days onboard Rocky Mountaineer (GoldLeaf Service), including gourmet cuisine onboard; nine-night hotel accommodation; Luxury Catamaran & Scenic Seaplane transfers; Butchart Gardens Tour; Calgary Tower; Banff Gondola; Panoramic Helicopter Tour; Vancouver Lookout; National Parks Pass; rail station transfers and luggage handling.

Select travel dates 7/6 - 8/2/20

Select travel dates 4/8 – 10/4/20

OFFER 1352655

OFFER M19878

GRAND RAIL CIRCLE

This epic rail adventure combines a legendary historical route with the world’s most breathtaking and varied rail scenery. Travel past stunning lakes through the coastal rainforest and the desert-like conditions of the Fraser Canyon into the vast ranchlands of the Cariboo Plateau.

12-NIGHT ITINERARY: Vancouver, Kamloops, Banff, Lake Louise, Jasper, Quesnel, Whistler, Vancouver VACATION INCLUDES: Five days onboard Rocky Mountaineer (GoldLeaf Service), including gourmet cuisine onboard; nine-night hotel accommodation; Vancouver Lookout; Banff Tour, including Banff Gondola; Yoho National Park Tour; Icefields Parkway Tour, including Ice Explorer; Jasper Highlights Tour; National Parks Pass; rail station transfers and luggage handling.

Select travel dates 4/19 – 9/27/20 OFFER 1352638

CALL OR VISIT THE WEBSITE, FOUND ON THE BACK COVER, FOR ADDITIONAL INFO + LATEST VACATION OFFERS. Amenities may vary by category and travel date. Restrictions, terms and conditions may apply.

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VAC AT I O N S INSIDER

AFRICA

Wherever Tauck travels, expect to explore the world’s treasures and discover people and cultures you may not have known existed. Experience extraordinary, life-changing moments seamlessly arranged by top-ofthe-line professionals. All you have to do is sit back and enjoy an amazing, worry-free trip.

WILDLIFE ODYSSEY: SOUTH AFRICA, BOTSWANA & ZIMBABWE

This journey takes you inside national parks and private game reserves in South Africa, Zimbabwe, and Botswana for unrivaled big game viewing, followed by excursions to South African vineyards and wine estates, the rugged tip of the continent, and the cutting edge of art, culture, and cuisine in Cape Town.

11-NIGHT VACATION INCLUDES: Deluxe accommodations; most meals and special dinners; intra-tour flights; motor coach transportation; airport transfers; entertainment; sightseeing; porterage; gratuities for hotel and restaurant staff, drivers and local guides.

Select travel dates 5/21 – 12/17/20 OFFER M20138

CALL OR VISIT THE WEBSITE, FOUND ON THE BACK COVER, FOR ADDITIONAL INFO + LATEST VACATION OFFERS. Amenities may vary by category and travel date. Restrictions, terms and conditions may apply.

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CRUISE INSIDER

S O U T H PA C I F I C

Paul Gauguin Cruises celebrates the best in French Polynesian culture. This all-inclusive, five-plus star experience offers the highest levels of service, with a crew-to-guest ratio of 1 to 1.5 and no more than 332 guests on the intimate m/s Paul Gauguin.

An extensive selection of amenities, facilities, and unique activities maximizes time aboard. PLUS: THIRD GUEST IN THE SAME STATEROOM SAILS FOR $125 PER NIGHT OR THIRD GUEST 17 AND UNDER IN THE SAME STATEROOM SAILS FREE!*

TAHITI & SOCIETY ISLANDS

m/s Paul Gauguin

7-NIGHT ITINERARY: Pape‘ete, Huahine, Taha‘a (Motu Mahana), Bora Bora (overnight), Mo‘orea (overnight), Pape‘ete (overnight) Select travel dates through 12/26/20

• Up to $400 shipboard credit per couple

• Cocktail reception and experienced host on select sailings OFFER M17348

SOCIETY ISLANDS & TUAMOTUS

m/s Paul Gauguin

10-NIGHT ITINERARY: Pape‘ete, Huahine, Bora Bora (overnight), Rangiroa, Fakarava, Taha‘a (Motu Mahana), Mo‘orea (overnight), Pape‘ete (overnight) Select travel dates through 11/11/20

• Up to $400 shipboard credit per couple

• Cocktail reception and experienced host on select sailings OFFER M17349

CALL OR VISIT THE WEBSITE, FOUND ON THE BACK COVER, FOR ADDITIONAL INFO + LATEST VACATION OFFERS. *Restrictions apply. | Amenities may vary by category and travel date. Additional restrictions, terms and conditions may apply. Ship’s Registry: Bahamas.

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CRUISE INSIDER

SOUTH AMERICA & A N TA R C T I C A

A leader in small-ship cruising, Seabourn continues to deliver exceptional moments that create the world’s finest travel experiences. Enjoy unique itineraries and authentic discovery aboard intimate, ultra-luxury ships.

Seabourn offers spacious all-suite accommodations, complimentary welcome champagne, a fully stocked in-suite bar, and world-class dining, further enhanced through a culinary partnership with Chef Thomas Keller.

HOLIDAY ANTARCTICA, PATAGONIA & SOUTH GEORGIA ISLAND

Seabourn Quest

ITINERARY: Buenos Aires, Punta del Este, South Georgia (overnight), Antarctica (five nights), Ushuaia, Beagle Channel, Punta Arenas, Strait of Magellan, Canal Sarmiento, El Brujo Glacier, Chilean Fjords, Golfo de Corcovado, Castro, Puerto Montt, Reloncavi Sound, Santiago (San Antonio) 24 NIGHTS DEPARTING: December 19, 2019

• Private car and driver in select port or $300 shipboard credit per couple OFFER 1310152

CALL OR VISIT THE WEBSITE, FOUND ON THE BACK COVER, FOR ADDITIONAL INFO + LATEST VACATION OFFERS. Amenities may vary by category and travel date. Restrictions, terms and conditions may apply. Ships’ Registry: Bahamas.

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CRUISE INSIDER

ARCTIC

SeaDream Yacht Club owner Atle Brynestad, invented the phrase ‘Yachting, Not Cruising’ and these casually elegant mega-yachts have consistently achieved the industry’s highest accolades. This defines the yacht’s size and onboard luxury experience, with one to one guest to crew ratio, anticipatory service and award winning cuisine prepared à la minute with international menus incorporating regional flavors and fresh ingredients. SeaDream I & II with 110 guests, visits small harbors in the Caribbean and Mediterranean, while SeaDream Innovation, a new 220 guest yacht to be launched in 2021 will visit seven continents, including Antarctica, the Arctic, Asia and Oceania.

LUXURY

Defined by You

NORTH WEST PASSAGE

SeaDream Innovation

ITINERARY HIGHLIGHTS INCLUDE: Kangerlussuaq, Disko Bay (Greenland), Baffin Island, Pond Inlet, Devon Island, Ellesmere Island, Croker Bay, Cambridge Bay (Canada), Nome (Alaska) 26 NIGHTS DEPARTING: AUGUST 10, 2022 OFFER 1345783

CALL OR VISIT THE WEBSITE, FOUND ON THE BACK COVER, FOR ADDITIONAL INFO + LATEST VACATION OFFERS. Amenities may vary by category and travel date. Restrictions, terms and conditions may apply. SeaDream I & II Registry: Bahamas, SeaDream Innovation: Longyearbyen.

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CRUISE INSIDER

EUROPE

Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection is a masterpiece, complete with one-of-a-kind ships, exclusive excursions, and ultra-inclusive amenities that have earned the distinction of the world’s best and most awarded luxury river cruise line.

EXPERIENCE A NEW SHIP, THE S.S. LA VENEZIA!

GEMS OF NORTHERN ITALY

New Ship! S.S. La Venezia

While aboard the new S.S. La Venezia, encounter unforgettable sights on this odyssey through Northern Italy that begins in Milan, home to Da Vinci’s The Last Supper, and ends in legendary Venice, the “Queen of the Adriatic.” These two iconic cities bookend an exploration of Northern Italy that rewards the curious traveler with amazing experiences in Verona, Padua, Bologna, and Ferrara.

9-NIGHT ITINERARY: Milan (two nights, hotel stay), Verona, Serego Alighieri Winery, Venice (two nights), Chioggia, Polesella, Bologna, Porto Viro, Chioggia, Venice, Burano (Venitian Island), Mazzorbo (Venitian Island), Torcello, Venice (overnight) Select travel dates 3/27 – 10/30/20

• $300 shipboard credit per couple

OFFER M19331

CALL OR VISIT THE WEBSITE, FOUND ON THE BACK COVER, FOR ADDITIONAL INFO + LATEST VACATION OFFERS. Amenities may vary by category and travel date. Restrictions, terms and conditions may apply. Ships’ Registry: The Netherlands.

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H OT E L S & R E S O R T S INSIDER

Hotels & Resorts Collection

EUROPE

From Laos to London, the Hotels & Resorts Collection ensures exclusive privileges at more than 1100 participating global properties. Enjoy complimentary breakfasts and resort credits towards spa treatments and available upgrades.

THE BERKELEY

London, England Treading its own path for more than 100 years, The Berkeley is set midway between Knightsbridge and Belgravia.

It’s still taking style, comfort, and service to new levels with the latest arrival of The Berkeley Bar and Terrace. Discover a small-batch rum with a big personality or enjoy a single glass of red wine courtesy of Coravin. Every item on the curated menu has been selected for its one-of-a-kind character.

• Full English breakfast for two daily (also available via room service)

• £75 credit, per room, per stay • Welcome amenity

• Upgrade, early check-in and late check-out, subject to availability OFFER 1335223

CALL OR VISIT THE WEBSITE, FOUND ON THE BACK COVER, FOR ADDITIONAL INFO + LATEST VACATION OFFERS. 94

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H OT E L S & R E S O R T S INSIDER

Hotels & Resorts Collection

CARIBBEAN

Is the Caribbean calling? Enjoy early check in and late checkout, when available, in addition to inspired amenities that celebrate the authenticity of each property and destination.

MANDARIN ORIENTAL, CANOUAN

Canouan Island, St. Vincent and the Grenadines Mandarin Oriental’s renowned hospitality comes to the Caribbean for the first time at Mandarin Oriental, Canouan. Located in St. Vincent and The Grenadines and known as the island of tortoises, Canouan is a sought after Caribbean escape. Nestled on 1,200 acres known as Grenadines Estate, Mandarin Oriental, Canouan, sits along an immaculate stretch of Godahl Beach.

• Full breakfast at Lagoon Cafe or Asianne for two daily

•

$200 resort credit, per booking, per stay (applicable to either a spa treatment or round of golf or inter-island transfers on the resort’s private jet)

• Welcome house Champagne and fruit amenity

• $100 spa credit, once per stay

• Upgrade, early check-in and late check-out, subject to availability

OFFER 1350258

MALLIOUHANA, AN AUBERGE RESORT

Meads Bay, Anguilla The oceanfront resort has set the standard for modern-day island glamour set atop a bluff that rolls down to pristine white sands and azure-blue sea. Enjoy spacious, beachfront accommodations, a cascading infinity pool that seems to drop off into the sea below, and a beach bar that epitomizes toesin-the-sand relaxation. Travel & Leisure just named this hotel one of the top best in the Caribbean.

• Continental Breakfast for each guest daily

• $100 Hotel credit, once per stay

• $100 Resort Credit, per room, per stay • Welcome Culinary Amenity

• Upgrade, early check-in and late check-out, subject to availability

OFFER 1336061

CALL OR VISIT THE WEBSITE, FOUND ON THE BACK COVER, FOR ADDITIONAL INFO + LATEST VACATION OFFERS. U LT I M AT E E X P E R I E N C E S

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POSTCARD FROM …

THE SEA, with

REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRUISES® Captain

Serena Melani

BUCKET-LIST TRIP: From a captain perspective, my bucket list includes Greenland and Antarctica because they are the only two places I have yet to sail. For vacations, my list includes Bhutan and Nepal.

I NEVER TRAVEL WITHOUT: Books. I read books written by travelers of old times to have an idea how the places we sail today were in the past. I tell our guests they can travel without moving, thanks to books. The poet Emily Dickinson dedicated a beautiful poem to this subject. I always have a book of poems with me.

NEVER THOUGHT I WOULD: Enjoy working on a large team and being surrounded by so many people—when I was child I was very shy and preferred to stay on my own.

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CURRENT OBSESSION: Plants!

I would like to have more time to dedicate to my garden. I have several plants in mind that I would like to buy, but I’m rarely home in the correct season to be able to get them and transfer them into the earth.

MOST MEMORABLE CRUISE: Lisbon to Cape Town. It’s a unique voyage that connects two of my favorite cities in the world and traces its roots to the golden age of ship exploration in Africa. This experience opens us up to discovering different cultures and how others live in Africa.

I’D MOST LIKE TO DINE WITH: Bjorn Larson, a Swedish author who I caught on to a few years ago for his writings on the need for freedom. He’s also a seaman, so I started to read all of his other books, such as Long John Silver and the Celtic Ring. I’d also like to dine with Renzo Piano, an internationally

From top: Ilulissat, located in western Greenland; Captain Serena Melani, the first female captain of a brand new cruise ship, in her “office.”

known architect who put his talents to work to serve his community. Piano and his son wrote a book that I fell in love with: Atlantide, Looking for the Beauty.

WHEN I’M NOT AT SEA, YOU’LL FIND ME: In Korcula, a Croatian island where I live with Renato, my husband. Or on a motorbike somewhere in Europe.

CONSIDER YOURSELF CONNECTED 4 Steps. Endless Opportunity.

1

SHARE

YOUR WISH LIST Travel is a catalyst for connection— to cultures and communities and to physical and emotional landscapes. Your ultimate journey will be tailored precisely to your dreams. Expect handcrafted itineraries and personal travel advocates.

2

GAIN

EXPERT INTELLIGENCE With a network of global travel experts that have personally experienced the best in travel, we’ll curate experiences and journeys tailored to your unique, globetrotting personality.

3

ENJOY

EXCLUSIVE PRIVILEGES Expect exclusive privileges and overthe-top surprise and delight, such as upgrades at the world’s finest hotels and daily breakfast.

We can also arrange prepaid gratuities and a private car and driver in the port of your choice on select cruises.

4

JOURNEY

WITH CONFIDENCE After crafting a personalized itinerary that fulfills your every desire, enjoy peace of mind.

Every last detail will be triple checked.

Your only “to-do” is celebrating a seamless, inspiring, and indelible journey.

YOUR VISION > OUR INSPIRATION

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Bhutan