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LEADER As graduation approaches, I’m finally able to see the bright light at the end of tunnel and I’m glad I chose graphic design studies. As a student in Tækniskólinn I have had a very hands-on and practical learning experience, and therefore I would recommend to anyone to do the same if they want to pursue any kind of creative profession such as graphic design and professional photography. I have a lot of material I’m proud of already and Tækniskólinn has given me the confidence to head out into the professional graphic design market. As an immigrant with limited Icelandic speaking capabilities, it’s been a challenge to tackle three years of lessons spoken in Icelandic, but I’ve pushed through and don’t regret it. The teachers have been very helpful at Tækniskólinn, and I think the world of beautiful corporate logos owes those teachers a lot, and I’m certain my studies will benefit the beauty of the world. I’m ready to spread my wings. Thank you!
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ABOUT ME
WINE
PANGAIA CLOTHING
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EMBLA Editor Kotryna Rukstelyte Designer Kotryna Rukstelyte Photographer Nemendur á fyrri önn í ljösmyndun. Fonts Univers 45 light 9/13pt Univers 55 roman 9/13pt Univers 65 bold 9/13pt
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KOTRYNA RUKŠTELYTĖ
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ABOUT ME
Hello my name is Kotryna, I am 20 years old born in Lithuania in small town Visaginas where the Chernobyl series were filmed at the Ignalina power plant since it has exactly the same structure as Chernobyl one. Moved here around four years ago and strive to make the future more beautiful. I´ve had a keen eye on art, fashion and any aesthetic design throughout my life and decided to pursue graphics when I was around 17. I´ve greatly enjoyed the experience and strive to push myself to become a better designer by the day. My goals are to be able to intricately design not only graphics for clients, but every detail of a brand that create a whole. Therefore
my next plan is the brand identity / brand design course. The only problem I´ve got thru the graphic design course is that I can´t unsee so many of the bad logos and designs on the products in the stores that it makes me agitated, pay attention and You will see it yourself! I also enjoy photography. Since I was a little kid I always wanted a good camera, my loving uncle decided to fulfill my dream and got me one. Since then photography has been one of my favorite hobbies. Although I only enjoy human/portrait photography.
“ A good tpyeafce mkaes ahnytning eeisar to raed. „
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WINE Wine is an old-age tradition that has been around for centuries. It is a sophisticated drink that takes years to produce to achieve the perfect taste. Every bottle is fermented with science and history. For those of us who are perpetually hunting for the unusual, the wine world is a mecca of delight. There are thousands of wine varieties, most of which exist in only in specific microclimates. Despite how rare these varietal wines are, they are within reach. Sound like an opportunity for some delicious discoveries? Absolutely! “If you tasted a new wine variety each week, it would take you 40 years to try them all.” Here are six rare red wine grapes that you deserve to know about.
Refosco Imagine picking blackberries in the forest while drinking coffee from a thermos. Typical Tasting Notes: Cherry, Dried Blackberry, Resinous-and-Floral Herbs, Espresso, Incense. Why Refosco is Awesome: For one, Refosco (aka Refošk) is actually a family of grapes, so for the sake of this exploration, let’s stick to one Italian variant called “Refosco dal Penduncolo Rosso.” This grape turns out to be the parent of Corvina, which makes one of the top wines of Italy (that’s Amarone della Valpolicella). Refosco manages to be heady and rich and high acid at the same time. Your tongue will tie knots! Frappato Drinking Frappato is like jumping into a giant pool of brightly-colored plastic balls.
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Typical Tasting Notes: Pomegranate, Sweet Strawberry, White Pepper, Tobacco, Clove. Why Frappato is Awesome: Frappato is one of the few red wines out there that doesn’t take itself too seriously. Still, its sweet-smelling fruit flavors and pale red color aren’t something to poo poo. Frappato might actually be genetically related to Sangiovese (Italy’s top red wine, mind you). Plus, it’s perfectly at home growing on a live volcano (Mount Etna in Sicily)! So, if you’re looking for something to lighten your load (or for a salmon-friendly red), Frappato is your girl. St. Laurent Your friends will swear this is Pinot Noir. Typical Tasting Notes: Raspberry, Blackberry, Mushroom, Baking Spices, Cocoa Powder. Why St. Laurent is awesome: Everything seems a bit more vibrant (if not slightly off the rails) in Eastern Europe. (If you’ve been there, you know exactly what I’m talking about). St.
Laurent is like a bolder, sexier, more bodacious Pinot Noir (although, it’s technically not related). So, if you’re looking for something that’s “close to home” but pushes your ma’s buttons, pick up a bottle of what we’re calling “The Saint.” (P.S. The Czech spell it “Svätovavrinecké” – how would you pronounce that?). Listán Negro Have you ever had anything from the Canary Islands? Typical Tasting Notes: Red Cherry, Banana, Strawberry, Pepper Spice, Flowery Herbs. Why Listán Negro is Awesome: Have you ever had ANYTHING from the Canary Islands? I didn’t think so. Enter Listán Negro. This is a wine that is sometimes compared to Grenache, but with slightly less smack-you-in-the-face alcohol. It’s pretty common to find this grape made with carbonic maceration (thus, the “banana” flavor in some wines), which helps reduce some of the herbaceous-ness. Still, there’s something
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about this grape (and the island) that’s other-worldly. Flavors seem to balance between overly fruity and seriously earthy. It’s no wonder that this wine pops up in “in the know” NYC wine bars. Baga It’s cheap rosé when done wrong, but it’s Portugal’s Amarone when done right. Typical Tasting Notes: Dried Sour Cherry, Blackberry, Earthy Black Currant, Cocoa, Tar. Why Baga is Awesome: Baga is prolific. This is why Baga is the base grape in one of the world’s most well-distributed, hipster rosés: Matteus. It’s also delicate. This thin-skinned Portuguese variety has recently been taken more seriously by people like Luís Pato and Dirk Niepoort who fight back high yields (and use old vines) to encourage quality. Their work is paying off. In the glass, fine Baga has all the attributes of the other great collectible red wines of the world. Baga has good phenolic structure (high tannin, anthocyanin, etc), age-worthy acidity (with pH levels around 3.5), and the ability to age gracefully (meaning, it as the volatile acidity and aged compounds like sotolon increase, the wine doesn’t fall on its face). Xinomavro (“ksino-mav-roh”) If Rioja and Barolo made a baby – Typical Tasting Notes: Raspberry, Plum Sauce, Anise, Allspice, Tobacco Leaf.
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Why Xinomavro is Awesome: If there’s one thing to learn about collecting wines (to drink), it is that a little effort delving into off-the-beatenpath wine countries like Greece and Portugal will result in truly special finds. Xinomavro is one of these wines. Don’t let the awkward pronunciation scare you (just say “Casino-Mavro” and you’re practically there!) – this grape means serious business. Xinomavro really reminds us of Barolo when done right, but with a slight savory quality that brings up visions of aged Tempranillo. For now, you really need to sit on it for a while to allow those high acids and tannins to calm the heck down!
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Here are some fun, weird, and amusing facts about wines. • •
Apparently, some people have a “fear of wine,” and it’s called oenophobia. During the early Roman times, it was forbidden for women to drink wine. Wives who were caught by their husbands drinking wine could be killed if caught in the act.
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Women are more susceptible to the effects of wine than men. It’s partly due to biology, as women have fewer enzymes in the stomach lining required to break down alcohol. In ancient Greece, the host of dinner would take the first sip of wine to assure that the wine served to guests wasn’t poisoned. The act of courtesy was where the phrase “drinking to one’s health” originated. There are 10,000 varieties of wine grapes existing worldwide. At a wine-tasting event, it is okay to spit the wine out. When attending such events, it is acceptable to take a sip of wine and hold it in your mouth for a few seconds and then decide to swallow or spit it out. It also allows guests to taste multitudes of wine without getting drunk. There is a right and wrong way to hold a wine glass. The proper way is to hold by the stem so that the hand does not warm the glass and increase the temperature of the wine.
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PANGAIA C pan | pæn — gaia | ga
Pan — All-inclusive, especially in relation to the whole of a continent, racial group or religion. Gaia — Mother Earth.
Mission & Vision PANGAIA is a direct-to-consumer materials science company bringing breakthrough textile innovations and patents into the world through everyday lifestyle products. Every technology they work with aims to solve an environmental problem of the fashion/apparel & nature industry. They hope to drive these solutions further by making technologies and materials available to companies across different industries. By introducing these innovations, PANGAIA designs materials, products and experiences for everyday and everyone. The future of color is here—and it’s made using bacteria Using bacteria found in organisms so small that the average human eye can’t detect, Colorifix is able to create colors from unique places simply by accessing the DNA blueprint within different pigments and, with the help of microbes, turning them into unique colors. From there, the world of color inspired by nature is limitless. Did you know that our Blue Cocoon color is made with pigments found in silk cocoons, and the Midway Geyser Pink (named after the famous Midway Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park) uses pigments around the springs? Color can be a dirty business Did you know that the average dyeing process can take up to 5 washes and require high temperatures for 5+ consecutive hours to create the color? And while synthetic dyes are often made from polluting petrochemicals and toxic chemicals, they’re not the only culprit. Natural dyes can still require some sort of chemical process to fix the dyes in place and keep them from fading.
CLOTHING By using Colorifix’s engineered microbes instead, PANGAIA can replicate nature’s color palette with significantly cleaner inputs—and outputs. With Colorifix they only need 1 wash and 3 hours. Instead the process uses zero harmful chemicals, less energy wasted and less water, too. Not only is Colorifix revolutionizing the dyeing industry, it’s solution is scalable too. Did you know? The annual clothing volume for the UK alone requires over 20 billion liters of water to dye. If you were standing on Tower Bridge looking down at the River Thames, you would have to wait 3.9 days for this amount of water to pass. Powered by Colorifix Colorifix is a biotechnology company that’s revolutionizing the dyeing process to help reduce the textile industry’s environmental impact. Their ongoing mission? To engineer natural solutions to solve current problems our planet faces. A trailblazer for innovation, Colorifix has pioneered the first biological process to produce, deposit, and fix pigments onto textiles. This method uses at least 68% less water than conventional dyeing practices, and up to 90% for synthetic fibres. PANGAIA x AIR INK AIR INK® Treatments Water-based black ink made from air pollution, printed on their latest capsule. Discover the PANGAIA x AIR-INK® capsule. Problem-solving science you can wear. Industry Problem Right now, the apparel industry has a large carbon footprint that contributes to an extremely high amount of air pollution worldwide. They want to do their part to move the industry forward with new innovative technologies and responsible solutions—that’s where AIR-INK® comes in. PANGAIA Solution They are revolutionizing how they use ink—one product at a time. This technology turns air pol-
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lution particles into water-based black ink, used to print our logo and text blocks in their latest capsule. The more we support new carbon capture and recycling technologies like AIR-INK®, the more we support our planet. What is AIR-INK®? AIR-INK® is a carbon-capture technology that captures air pollution particles and diverts harmful substances from the air we breathe. The particles are turned into different grades of inks, dispersions and coatings. For this capsule the captured air particles were turned into safe, water-based inks.
TECHNO What is techno?
Techno is an electronic music genre that was born in the seventies but developed into an adult EDM genre in the eighties, mostly in Chicago, Detroit, and Frankfurt. Stylistically, techno is generally repetitive instrumental music, often produced for use in a continuous DJ set. The central rhythmic component of techno is most often in common time (4/4). Where time is marked with a bass drum on each quarter note pulse, a backbeat played by snare or clap on the second and fourth pules of the bar, and an open hi-hat sounding every second eighth note. The tempo tends to vary between approximately 120 to 150 beats per minute (bpm), depending on the style of techno. Music journalists and fans of techno are generally selective in their use of the term; so a clear distinction can be made between sometimes related but often qualitatively different styles, such as tech house and trance. Techno spawned many subgenres including minimal techno, ambient techno, hardcore techno, industrial techno, intelligent dance music (IDM), Detroit techno, trance, deep techno, and tech house. From these subgenres came offshoots like acid house, rave, electronica, and EDM. What was the first techno song? No UFO’s was the first techno song. It is credited to Kevin Saunderson and Juan Atkins, who were part of a group called “The Belleville Three.” No UFO’s helped establish an electronic sound that caught on in Europe. Where techno is the most popupar? Techno is the most popular in .Europe and grew in popularity throughout European countries, starting with its success in Italy and then moving to Germany, Belgium, Netherlands, and UK. Over time, different subgenres of techno were developed, including acid house
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music, which was mainly created by DJs who had been influenced by Chicago’s early scewhen they visited there for parties during the 1980s. 3 Characteristics of Techno
R E M L A P y l l i L Based in Zurich, and spending more and more time with people of this great and flourishing underground scene, her devotion for music got stronger and in 2015 she finally decided diving into the business herself. With powerful, impulsive tech and melancholic deep sounds, intriguing melodies and electrifying basslines, Lilly creates an unique and energetic vibe sending her audience straight to outta space on a trip where return tickets are not needed anymore. As authenticity and focus are two of her most appreciated attributes it´s needless to say, that she´s already full force ahead working in the studio to create her own sounds. There would be no real journey with Lilly, if she didn’t present her emotions with her own music.
Techno music is typically characterized by: 1. Early synthesizers and drum machines: Techno music is created with electronic instruments, and most techno producers show an affinity for vintage synths. These include the RolandTR-808 andTR-909 drum machines, the Roland TB-303 bassline generator, the Yamaha DX7 keyboard, and the Korg SQD1 sequencer. 2. Repetitive, danceable beats: The overwhelming majority of techno music is in 4/4 time and played at a tempo ranging from 120 beats per minute (bpm) to 150 bpm. 3. Compositional technique based on looping: Most techno songs are derived from a looping bassline and drumbeat, over which a producer may add synth pads, diatonic melodies, or samples. Often, techno songs are improvised in a live setting and vary from one performance to the next.
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