Montana Adventurer Winter 2009

n SUREFIRE WAYS TO STAY WARM n MONTANA SKI AREAS FOR ANY BUDGET n GO SNOW CAMPING IN STYLE n SNOWMOBILE SKALKAHO PASS

WINTER 2009-10

INSIDE BOOKS PROVIDE INDOOR ADVENTURE

TRIED, TRUE WAYS TO START A FIRE

By GWEN FLORIO ................................................PAGE

By JOE NICKELL

20

PAGE 5

WARM UP WITH DRINKS FOR WINTER

GO CAMPING IN WHITE WORLD

By KEILA SZPALLER ............................................PAGE

22

SNOWMOBILING ON SKALKAHO PASS

By MICHAEL JAMISON

PAGE 10

By PERRY BACKUS

PAGE 24

BACKCOUNTRY BITTERROOT RUNS

By WILL MOSS

CHAIRLIFTS FOR ANY BUDGET

PAGE 12

By BRETT FRENCH and MARY GERBER

STAY UPRIGHT ON WINTER WALKS

PAGE 28

By MICHAEL MOORE ..........................................PAGE

FIND ICE CLIMBS WITHIN HOUR

ALL IN FAMILY AT GREAT DIVIDE

By MICHAEL MOORE

By EVE BYRON

PAGE 18

PAGE 32

Winter 2009-10 Montana Adventurer is a quarterly publication of the Missoulian.

Publisher Stacey Mueller 4

WINTER 2009-10

17

Editor Sherry Devlin

Reporters Joe Nickell, Michael Jamison, Will Moss, Michael Moore, Gwen Florio, Keila Szpaller, Perry Backus, Brett French, Mary Gerber and Eve Byron Photographers Michael Gallacher, Linda Thompson, Kurt Wilson, Tom Bauer and Will Moss Page design Justin Grigg MONTANA ADVENTURER

Copy editors Sherry Devlin, Tyler Christensen and Justin Grigg Advertising sales Holly Kuehlwein can be reached by calling 523-5223.

Mailing address P.O. Box 8029, Missoula, MT 59807-8029 Phone (406) 523-5240

TOM BAUER/Missoulian

A thermite fire-starter offered by DBC Pyrotechnics of Portland, Ore., provides a 30-second burst of flame at 4,500 degrees, enough to “ignite a fire in three feet of snow or pouring rain,” according to the company.

Surefire starts Reporter’s tried, true methods for sparking flames

By JOE NICKELL of the Missoulian

I was in trouble before I even realized I was getting cold. It was opening day of hunting season, and I had spent the early morning hours hiking through snow high up a mountain ridge, intent on reaching a saddle where I’d often seen elk passing through on the way between their evening feeding area and daylight beds.

Having gotten a rather late start, I had pushed hard up

the mountain, sweating in my light camouflage jacket. The weather report hadn’t told me to expect such low temperatures, but my pounding heart as I hiked kept me plenty warm. I didn’t even bother taking my gloves out of my backpack.

Arriving at my intended destination, I stopped on a rocky outcropping and slowly scanned the woods ahead with my binoculars. Through the trees, I could

MONTANA ADVENTURER

See STARTS, Page 6 WINTER 2009-10

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Starts Continued from Page 5

see perhaps 200 yards along the saddle and partway down both sides of the ridge. My mind bent outward, analyzing every spot of brown. My breath calmed.

Suddenly, I realized that my bare hands had become very cold. I suffer from a condition called Reynaud’s Syndrome, which basically means that my body sometimes overreacts to cold, shutting down circulation to my extremities, as it would normally do in cases of near-death hypothermia.

Usually when this happens to me, I can sense it’s coming and find ways to warm my hands. But on this day, by the time I

TOM BAUER/Missoulian

Fire Lighters consistently lit fires in snowy conditions. noticed my fingers were cold, they were already starting to turn white as the blood drained from them.

I dropped my backpack and began pulling out my extra warm clothes and gloves. It was too late. My

hands were already frozen stiff. I began to involuntarily shiver.

Abandoning all thought of elk, I began breaking dry branches from the trees around me, building a small tangle of kindling on the snow. I again opened

my pack, and pulled out one of the tiny Bic lighters that I typically carried with me in the woods.

But my fingers wouldn’t grip the lighter – much less override the child-proof feature. Only after long minutes of fruitless fumbling did I manage to light the lighter, by wedging it between my wrist and my chest with one hand, lighting it with the thumb of my other hand.

Twenty minutes later, a roaring fire at my feet, I shook my head.

“Joe, you idiot,” I chastised myself out loud.

“You of all people should be better prepared than this.”

That scare last autumn See STARTS, Page 7

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WINTER 2009-10

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MONTANA ADVENTURER

Starts Continued from Page 6

was the worst attack of Reynaud’s that I’ve experienced, but I’m hardly alone in my vulnerability to Montana’s cold. Five percent of adult men and 8 percent of women suffer from Reynaud’s Syndrome, according to the Framingham Heart Study, a long-term cardiovascular survey conducted ever since 1948 in Framingham, Mass.

But even those who don’t suffer from Reynaud’s can easily find themselves in need of warmth, and fast: An accidental slip into an icy creek can quickly cause potentially fatal hypothermia in even the most “warm-blooded”

outdoorsman.

So when I returned to civilization that night, I resolved not to head back into the woods until I had equipped myself with a foolproof fire-starting kit.

But what to include in that kit? Surfing the Internet over the course of several evenings, I found myself adrift in a dizzying sea of advice, much of it driven by principles other than those that motivated me. Some hardcore outdoorsmen swore by the classic flint and steel as the only foolproof fire-starter.

I read long treatises on the even more labor-intensive techniques involved in using a traditional friction bow. The more pyromaniacally inclined engaged in games of explosive one-upmanship – discussing the merits of

signal flares, white gas and the like – on chat forums where actual hikers and active outdoorspeople seemed conspicuously absent.

Despite the dead-ends and questionable advice, the exercise helped me narrow my focus. What I sought was a compact, lightweight igniter and tinder kit – something that would allow me to start a fire in snow and possibly rain, possibly in wind, possibly with wood that wasn’t bone-dry. Oh, and it needed to require little dexterity, in case my fingers were frozen.

The problem is, many options exist that cover some of those bases, but very few cover them all.

Roadside signal flares, for example, burn very hot and plenty long enough to start

a fire; but they’re bulky, and the chemicals involved are pretty nasty. Liquid fuels and gases take up a lot of space, and if they leak, your pack is basically ruined.

A guy by the name of Herman Jansen of Damiansville, Ill., has received a U.S. patent for a “portable, fused essentially waterproof campfire ... entirely surrounded by a clear combustible material such as shrink wrap and a handle is attached,” but I couldn’t find a commercially available version, much less imagine fitting one into in my backpack.

One oddball option, however, did catch my attention: a thermite firestarter offered by DBC See STARTS, Page 8

Our snow stays soft and deep for days. Our real Montana town has locals and visitors alike who are all just a little more laid back. We enjoy whole runs to ourselves, wondering why people at some resorts stand in line all day to share the slopes with thousands of others. Our mountain is over 50% black/double black, and 100% radical.

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MONTANA ADVENTURER

WINTER 2009-10

7

“I put my research and development guy on it, and he figured it out. ... When he sent it back to me and I lit the fuse on the first one, I just about had kittens. It seriously works, and it has proven to be reliable. It’s not cheap, but if you’re in the middle of winter and you’ve got wet timber, it’s a guarantee.”

– Rian Smith, owner of DBC Pyrotechnics, on thermite fire-starter

Starts Continued from Page 7

Pyrotechnics of Portland, Ore. Very small and reasonably light at just 3 ounces, the canisters of thermite (a blend of metal powder and metal oxide) allegedly provided a 30second burst of flame burning at 4,500 degrees, enough to “ignite a fire in three feet of snow or pouring rain,” according to the company.

I called owner Rian Smith to chat about his invention. He said he came upon the inspiration after watching workers weld railroad tracks near his house using thermite.

“The problem,” said Smith, “was how to start it; nobody seemed to know how to light it without using a torch. So I put my research and development guy on it, and he figured it out. ... When he sent it back to me and I lit the fuse on the first one, I just about had kittens. It seriously works, and it has proven to be reliable. It’s not cheap, but if you’re in the middle of winter and you’ve got wet timber, it’s a guarantee.”

Indeed, it’s not cheap: $8.95 for the one-time-use fire-starters. Nevertheless, I ordered four.

I then took a run around Missoula’s outdoor equipment stores, where I picked up an array of firestarting products, from a $2.89 box of waterproof matches, to a $39.95 8

WINTER 2009-10

TOM BAUER/Missoulian

“I feel much safer now, knowing that a warm campfire is only moments away, no matter the conditions,” says reporter Joe Nickell.

Brunton windproof butane lighter. I also grabbed a number of commercially available tinders, including sticks made of wax and sawdust, a tube of socalled fire paste, and cubes of WetFire Tinder.

Over the course of the hunting season, I tested the various products. As I suspected, some of the traditional techniques fell short of my self-

established standards.

Shaved magnesium produced an intense burst of fire when ignited with a flint-and-steel spark, but the shaving process was time-consuming, the flint and steel required more dexterity than my frozen fingers might offer and the burst of heat wasn’t longlasting. If the actual organic tinder wasn’t fairly dry and very carefully positioned in relation to

MONTANA ADVENTURER

the magnesium shavings, it wouldn’t ignite – and the whole shaving process would have to be repeated.

The flint and steel had even more trouble igniting the WetFire Tinder cubes, as well as the Waterproof Tinder Cubes marketed by Coughlan.

A company called Ultimate Survival Technologies offers a flintand-steel fire-starter called the Little Sparkie, which it says “can be operated with one hand and start your fire even in the most adverse weather conditions.” But Little Sparkie mostly just produced a few sparks; it took precious minutes (and some dexterity) to ignite synthetic tinders, and I never did manage to get it to ignite even the driest organic tinder.

Waterproof matches proved much more reliable and required less dexterity to produce an initial flame that would light organic tinder, tinder cubes or fire paste. Even better – though undoubtedly bulkier – are Coughlan’s Fire Lighters, which are basically a tinder stick with an enormous match head on one end.

Though hardly windproof, the sticks consistently lit fires in snowy conditions without much hassle.

Some people swear by high-end butane lighters like Brunton’s Firestorm Lighter; other people swear at them. If you believe the marketing, these small, See STARTS, Page 9

Starts Continued from Page 8

lightweight lighters produce a flame that’s so hot, you often can’t even see it – even in winds up to 80 mph. Another bonus, for me: The larger controls and lack of childproofing make it easy to use. The downside: They’re fickle, particularly in cold temperatures and at high altitudes – precisely the conditions where I most often hunt. At 40 bucks, the Firestorm isn’t cheap (and other models are even pricier); ultimately, while I’ll keep it in my pack, I’ll never go without a backup source of flame.

As to commercially available tinders, I found that the WetFire Tinder and Coughlan’s Waterproof Tinder Cubes burned about equally long (several minutes) at about the same (low) intensity. Both also claim to burn in rain; the WetFire Tinder even burns while floating in water. Of the two, the WetFire Tinder cubes were far easier to use; the Waterproof Tinder Cubes required working them between your fingers first. Coughlan’s Fire Paste worked somewhat better; when applied liberally, it even managed to ignite medium-sized sticks without the need for other tinder. But the bulky metal tube was a drawback. All of those products were vulnerable to being extinguished by a moderate wind, but they weathered better, generally, than organic tinder.

Predictably, the thermite fire-starters stood in a class by themselves. Equipped with a short fuse and contained within a lidded

plastic canister (which you must burn, alas), the firestarter fit easily in my small emergency kit. The product actually flips fire-starting upside down: Smith recommends setting the canister atop (rather than underneath) the organic material you intend to light, because the thermite reaction produces whitehot molten iron that will flow down and ignite anything beneath it.

The first time I used one, I simply placed it atop a large, snow-covered log, lit the fuse and stepped back.

The intense heat ignited the dense log within seconds.

The second time I used one, it fell off the log as it was igniting. The molten iron burned a hole approximately 5 inches deep into the soil. As with gas-fired welding torches, you shouldn’t look at these things while they’re burning, lest you burn your retina.

In the end, I found myself with a much more reliable – and scarcely bulkier – fire-starting kit in my pack: a couple of Coughlan Fire Lighter sticks, a handful of WetFire Tinder cubes, the Brunton lighter, and – for extreme situations – one thermite fire-starter.

None of those, of course, replace the obvious advice to dress warmly (and wear my dang gloves) in the first place. But I feel much safer now, knowing that a warm campfire is only moments away, no matter the conditions.

Reporter Joe Nickell can be reached at 523-5358, jnickell@missoulian.com or on NickellBag.com.

MONTANA ADVENTURER

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MICHAEL JAMISON/Missoulian

With the right equipment and preparation, winter camping can offer quiet and solitude not available in other seasons.

The white life

Camping can continue in wide world of winter

By MICHAEL JAMISON of the Missoulian

Morning came crystal clear, and cold, but not just any kind of cold – a razor-sharp cold that bit to the core, cold enough to freeze your nostrils shut, and the world was absolutely silent.

Silent except for the groan and growl of superfrozen ice on the lake, crackling beneath an arctic stillness. Silent except for the occasional gunshot crack of trees popping in winter air.

Silent, finally, except for the squeak of powdery snow underfoot, announcing that Bill had roused 10

WINTER 2009-10

from his sleeping bag.

“It’s cold,” he muttered.

“Twenty-one below,” my wife answered.

“You know,” Bill offered, “if it were 53 degrees warmer, it’d be freezing.”

Bill has a unique perspective.

The creak of boots, the hurried zzzzip of zippers, the clatter of skis, metal bindings whining in the frost, sunlight everywhere, blazing on pillows of white.

During the summer months, this lake is thronged

MONTANA ADVENTURER

See WHITE, Page 11

White

nooks and crannies inside, for storage and candle shelves, and generally sleep high and dry on packed snow benches that line the walls.

Snow, in fact, makes great furniture. It’s flexible.

You can carve lounge chairs and post-modern tables, sculpt trench kitchens roofed in plastic, mold beds personalized to your curves, complete with pillows.

Continued from Page 10

with campers – kids and dogs and scolding grandmothers, Winnebagos and SUVs and motorboats. Picnickers.

But not today. Not in January. Even the bugs have abandoned the white season.

That’s why we’re here.

For the quiet. For the skiing. For the chance to visit a familiar place from a new perspective. Bill’s perspective, here so far below freezing. To cross lowlands too swampy to travel in summer, now hard as ice, and to explore the beyond.

In winter, the greenery is stripped away, and you can see straight through to the bones of this forest, branches bared and casting a spider’s web of shadows.

There, an owl’s wingtips brushed the snow, and a vole’s track suddenly stopped. There, a wolf crossed the icy outlet.

There, deer walked circles among thickets of willow.

These are winter’s stories, writ large.

If someone mentions winter camping and your first question is “Why?” then you probably shouldn’t bother. But if your question is “How?” then start gathering gear.

Gather skis and snowshoes, and a good avalanche shovel, and a puffy down sleeping bag with a home-sewn silk liner. Mukluks and hats and mitts and a frying pan.

Yes, a frying pan. Just fill it with snow (ice is always better, if you can find it), melt it all down, leave it out overnight and

MICHAEL JAMISON/Missoulian

The world grows larger in the winter, as impenetrable forests become wide white thoroughfares with nature’s signposts to show the way. pop loose the ice-disk come tomorrow morning.

It makes a great window for your snow cave, once you’ve cut a hole with the tail of your ski. But be sure to spill a little water in before you start melting that snow, or you’ll scorch your pans.

Drinking water won’t freeze overnight if you put the bottles in the bottom of your sleeping bag, or better yet bury them deep into the floor of the snow cave. Just remember to mark the spot with a stick.

Sticks are handy, too, when building the snow

cave – lop off several about a foot long and poke them through from the outside, so you’ll know how thick the walls are when excavating the interior.

Later, those sticks make fine coat racks. Hat racks.

Pot racks.

Split-level snow caves, snow caves with icy stairs leading to “lofts,” snow caves strung with Christmas garlands, cities of snow caves linked by underground tunnels. The good life. The subnivean life. Wintertime glamping.

Igloo living.

We like to carve lots of

MONTANA ADVENTURER

Dig a shallow pit, line it with a black plastic bag, ring it with fresh snow and when you return from a day’s skiing the winter sun will have melted you a fine pond of cooking water.

Or, if you have to heat water over a camp stove, the mousepad from your office makes a great base to keep the stove from melting down into the drift.

An avalanche shovel digs a pit, and then morphs into a seat, a backrest, a snow anchor to stake out tent or tarp. A Zippo works better than Bic in the cold, a “windmill” torch even better.

Coffee filters strain debris from melted snow. A gallon freezer bag, filled with snow, makes a fine deadman in drifts where stakes won’t grab – and you can use it later to waterproof your pack from leaky bottles.

A hat on your head keeps your feet warmer. Really.

Staying warm and dry is easier than getting warm and dry. Wind is worse than cold. Mittens beat gloves, and the mitten string your mom ran down your sleeves in first grade was a good idea.

Watch for colorful sun dogs, and shining sun pillars, and marvel at windSee WHITE, Page 16 WINTER 2009-10

11

Bitterroot turns

Range provides plenty of runs for skiers, snowboarders

By WILL MOSS Ravalli Republic

HAMILTON – A wise old rock climber once told me that, when it comes to getting outdoors in the Bitterroot Mountains, it’s “probably not very safe to claim that you were the first to do anything.”

I think about that sometimes, when I’m out in the snow, high above the creeks and canyons that define the Bitterroot Range’s unique and puzzlingly logical array.

What it means to me is that there is a definitive and near tangible allure to this dramatic landscape; a stalwart value so innate that it has drawn seekers of adventure, exploration and solitude since long before I or even that old climber first laid eyes on it.

As a snowboarder, I was originally drawn to the Bitterroot’s shadow by an appreciation for the rural and easy-going nature of the local ski hill – not to mention the quality and quantity of snow.

For years, those long, cold days on the slopes and fire-lit evenings with good friends and strong, local beer gave to me most all that I wanted from these old hills.

Eventually, however, there came a time when I found myself staring deep into the range’s westward canyons, far back into the heart of the Bitterroots where massive See TURNS, Page 13 The great thing about winter recreation in the Bitterroot Mountains is access. If you can see it, you can ski it.

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WINTER 2009-10

WILL MOSS/Ravalli Republic

MONTANA ADVENTURER

Turns Continued

jagged sentinels of rock, ice and snow beckoned me to explore, dared even, as I know they have so many others.

That feeling, nagging and ever-present yet exciting and wholly addictive, can be a difficult one to shake.

Not that you’d want to, I suppose.

It’s a feeling that has driven me to great lengths over the last few years, from sacrificing my limited time and very limited wealth to jeopardizing my safety and a relationship or two.

With that said, I’ve found more value and selfrevelation through my experiences in these mountains than in any school or church, and I hope that the unpredictable weave of converging fibers that comprises my path through life allows me to continue this affair.

The great thing about winter recreation in the Bitterroots is the access. To a degree, if you can see it, you can ski it.

The long and mostly gentle western rise of the range’s 30-or-so prominent ridge lines from the valley floor provides for fast and easy approaches to an almost unquantifiable selection of bowls, couloirs, broad faces and rolling aprons.

Once you begin to understand how it all works, the possibilities can almost be overwhelming; to really “ski the Bitterroots” would take a

lifetime or more.

Luckily, there are a few well-known descents that can allow you to put a feather in your cap and feel like you’ve gotten a wellrounded perspective on backcountry skiing and snowboarding in these mountains. As always, be sure that you have the proper equipment, knowledge and preparation to safely make it back to the valley floor before you head for the hills.

West Fork Comprising a large portion of the southern end of the range, the signature peaks and drainages that feed the West Fork of the Bitterroot River provide dramatic and challenging ski descents that rival some of the country’s more wellknown backcountry destinations.

One of the area’s highlights is the dramatic Trapper Peak complex, the namesake of which stands as the Bitterroot’s highest summit at 10,157 feet.

For all its spire-like prominence, access to the area is relatively simple and non-technical, depending on the chosen route. The simplest path to the main peak is the Trapper Peak Trail which starts from Forest Road 5630A and steadily climbs 3,800 feet in about four miles, delivering you to the long saddle that drops east from the main peak.

From this point, skiers have the option of descending the long ridgeline back toward the trailhead, or tackling any of a number of technical couloirs that fall (quite steeply) into the Trapper Creek drainage to the

north. The latter advanced routes require skiers to either climb back toward the saddle or exit through the Trapper Creek drainage.

Skiers can also approach the complex via the Baker Lake Trail, which meanders through a chain of three lakes ending in the Gem Lake basin.

Winter access to these trailheads is limited by snowpacked roads, though committed skiers with the right equipment can make it in and out in a day. The area provides excellent spring access with some north-facing areas holding skiable snowpack through the summer.

Central Bitterroots The swath of peaks and canyons that stretch to the west between Darby and Hamilton offers a nearly unquantifiable selection of dramatic ascents and descents to any skier willing to make a day (or more) of it.

West of Darby lies Tin Cup Canyon, a narrow drainage that ends at Tin Cup Lake about 11 miles from the trailhead. Skiers will find numerous descents along the route, including the Como Peaks and Kerlee Lake bench, which lie along the canyon’s north wall, as well as a series of undulating mini-drainages to the south and east of Tin Cup Lake itself.

To the north lies Como Lake and the Rock Creek and Little Rock Creek drainages, either of which make great day excursions for skiers looking to get out into a dramatic landscape that offers an overwhelming selection of

MONTANA ADVENTURER

bowls, aprons and other skiable terrain from mellow, low-angle powder fields to the ultra-technical east face of El Capitan.

Farther down the valley is Lost Horse Canyon, long a favored destination of snowmobilers looking to get way back into the range via the 15-mile road to Twin Lakes near the Idaho border. Grab a ride on a friend’s sled and take your pick of fresh lines that descend from the western canyon’s north wall.

As you head farther north toward Hamilton, the ridgelines of the Bitterroots begin ending in broad faces that slope eastward down to the valley floor creating for easy, direct ascents and excellent, sustained descents with little approach. Foremost among these is the eastern slope of 9,100-foot Ward Mountain, which lies just southwest of Hamilton and is accessed from the Roaring Lion Creek trailhead.

Due west of Hamilton lies Downing Mountain and the iconic avalanche path that runs from its false peak. With stable snow conditions, this 2,000foot-plus chute can provide world-class powder turns in a half-day excursion. Skiers looking for a weekend getaway that’s close to town should check out the Downing Mountain Backcountry Snowsports Lodge, which sits at about 5,500-feet, near the chute’s terminus.

Northern Bitterroots From Hamilton northward, the Bitterroot’s eastern exposures fall into a See TURNS, Page 16 WINTER 2009-10

13

ADVENTURE DECEMBER

JANUARY

Saturday, December 19

Friday, January 1

RUST (Rails Under the Stars)

❄ New Year Snowmobile Poker Run

Where: Big Sky

Where: Lincoln

Contact: www.bigskyresort.com

Contact: mjparis@linctel.net Friday, January 8

Ski & Photos with Santa

Flathead Sled Dog Days (through Jan 10)

Where: Showdown Ski Area, Neihart

Where: Whitefish

Contact: www.showdownmontana.com

Contact: http://flatheadsleddogdays.com Friday, January 15

!

Holiday Candlelight Tour of Lewis & Clark Caverns

30th Annual Montana PRCA Pro Rodeo Circuit

Where: Whitehall

Finals (through Jan 17)

Contact: kempcaverns@in-tch.com

Where: Great Falls

Tuesday, December 29

Contact: www.mtexpopark.com

Christmas Cruise

Saturday, January 16

Annual Ski Fest (through Jan 17)

Where: Whitefish Contact: www.skiwhitefish.com Thursday, December 31

Where: Essex Contact: Contact: stay@izaakwaltoninn.com

New Year’s Eve Rockin’ Rail Jam and Torchlight

Friday, January 29

Parade

!

Where: Whitefish

Where: Bozeman

Contact: www.skiwhitefish.com

Contact: http://greatrockiesshow.com

Great Rockies Sportshow (through Jan 31)

Saturday, January 30

New Year’s Eve Run/Party

❄ Moonlight Snowmobile Poker Run

Where: Bozeman

Where: Lincoln

Contact: www.winddrinkers.org

Contact: mjparis@linctel.net

CALENDAR Frost Fever/5K Fun Run

❄ World Snowmobile Expo (through Mar 14)

Where: Missoula

Where: West Yellowstone

Contact: www.missoulaparks.org

Contact: http://snowmobileexpo.com

FEBRUARY Saturday, February 6

Dummy Jump Where: Big Sky Contact: www.bigskyresort.com Saturday, February 13

Cruise the Blues Where: Whitefish Contact: www.skiwhitefish.com Sunday, February 14

❄ 100-Mile Snowmobile Poker Run Where: White Sulpher Springs A ROCKY

Contact: hjk@mtintouch.net

MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE AWAITS

YOU!

Thursday, February 18

35th Annual Northern Rodeo Association Finals (through Feb 20) Where: Billings Contact: 406-252-1122 Saturday, February 20

❄ Scholarship/Charity Snowmobile Poker Run

RICH RANCH

• Lodging • Meals • Guided Snowmobiling

Seeley Lake, Montana

WWW.RICHRANCH.COM

1-406-677-2317 or 1-800-532-4350

Where: Lincoln Contact: mjparis@linetel.net

Legend

MARCH Friday, March 12

!

Great Rockies Sportshow (through Mar 14)

Where: Kalispell Contact: Contact: http://greatrockiesshow.com

Run

List your competition

Ski/Snowboard

406.523.5223

Sled Dog Race

advertising@missoulian.com

!

❄

Other Snowmobile Rodeo

White Continued from Page 11

sculpted sastrugi. If you don’t see any, say it anyway.

It’s a good word.

Rocks, heated in a fire and dropped into a covered cook pot, make a welcome space heater. An old camp roll taped to a stick makes a door. A ski pole through the roof makes a chimney.

A sled carries gear and provides endless fun. It also serves to haul snow out of the hole while digging the

Turns Continued from Page 13

repetitive pattern of faces and canyons. Pick a face from Mill to Gash or Little St. Joseph, and start climbing. Or choose a canyon like Blodgett, Bear, Kootenai or Sweeney, follow the creek west and pick almost any of the miniature drainages that extend to the north or south. All offer sublime half-day or full-day trips with countless options for great skiing.

West of Stevensville lies iconic St. Mary Peak at just over 9,300 feet. From the peak, a saddle slings low to the southeast sheltering a north-facing bowl. Access to this ridge is easy and quick (depending on how far you can make it up the road to the trailhead in the winter). Climbing west, up the saddle toward the peak, will reveal a number of great short descents into the bowl and a notch rising from a small lake provides a quick climb back to the saddle. This is another 16 WINTER 2009-10

cave. On a windy and frozen lake, two ski poles, a roll of duct tape and a small tarp combine to make a great sail.

Water freezes from the top down, so drop water bottles into your pack upside down, and the lids won’t freeze shut. An old down coat or a closed-cell sleeping pad can be cut into a “cozy” for your water bottle. And there’s no such thing as too many extra socks.

A warm water bottle in your ski boots at night

makes morning brighter.

Days are short, nights are long, and headlamp batteries last longer if you keep them warm. Books and cards are good. So’s a harmonica, or a cribbage board. Bring a chestnut, and roast it on an open fire. Or not.

It’s dark at 5 p.m., so ski under the moon.

The world, contrary to popular belief, does not shrink each winter to the area lit by your hearth. In fact, the world grows larger, as impenetrable forests

become wide, white thoroughfares, complete with nature’s sign posts to show the way.

Just ask Bill. It might be 53 degrees below the freezing mark, but there he goes, up and over the ridge, breath puffing like a steam engine and his internal heater kicking on high.

Now that’s perspective.

great spot for spring skiing.

At the northern end of the Bitterroot Range lies Lolo Peak – one of the only Bitterroot peaks visible from Missoula (though most of the valley actually sees the false north peak).

Lolo Peak has long been a favorite destination for Missoulians looking to get out on a quick day in the backcountry. Primary access to the peak area can be found by taking U.S. Highway 12 west from Lolo and turning south on Mormon Peak Road. From the parking lot, skiers can climb the north wall of Carlton Ridge and then descend down the other side into the Carlton Lake basin. The lake lies at the foot of the 9,100-foot peak at about 7,800 feet and provides a great base for making a few laps.

Given the right equipment, knowledge and conditions, the possibilities for skiing the Bitterroot backcountry are basically endless. As always, it’s best to set out with a partner who knows the area you intend to explore, and it’s crucial

that all backcountry skiers outfit themselves with the proper safety equipment, including an avalanche beacon, probe and shovel, and the knowledge to use them properly and to

recognize safe and unsafe snow conditions.

Reporter Michael Jamison can be reached at 1-800-366-7186 or at mjamison@missoulian. com.

Reporter Will Moss can be reached at 363-3300 or at wmoss@ravallirepublic. com.

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Spikes keep you walking on slick, snowy terrain

By MICHAEL MOORE of the Missoulian

Every year, cool new stuff bursts onto the winter landscape.

Snowboards, skis, bindings, ice axes, snowshoes, you name it.

Undoubtedly, all are eminently spectacular and the fact that I do without most of them is a wonder.

The deal with the yearly emergence of new winter gear is that most of it is just like last year’s gear. Sure, sweeping changes come along every once in a while – next to nobody wants to go back to straight skis after skiing on shaped boards.

And nobody who’s ever swung an ice ax at a frozen waterfall wants to use a straight ax for technical climbing again.

But most year-to-year changes are decidedly incremental. A better use of carbon, or a lighter laminate sandwich in a ski.

Which is not to say they’re totally unnecessary, but odds are you’ll live without them.

That said, Kahtoola’s MicroSpikes may be completely indispensable.

They’re not entirely new, but they’re not that easy to find locally either, so

TRY THE SPIKES Check out Kahtoola’s MicroSpikes at www.kahtoola.com/mi crospikes.html. Cost is $59. discovering them is a bit like finding that the last present under the Christmas tree – the one with no one’s name on it – is intended for you.

MicroSpikes are a cross between Yaktrax and fullon crampons. Sort of crampon lite. They’re not what you want if your winter running takes you over a lot of bare pavement,

but if you’re going off-road, they’re the bomb.

For anyone who’s ever taken off for the summit of Mount Sentinel on a winter’s day, MicroSpikes were built for you.

Like Yaktrax and the less-good and now discontinued Kako Ice Trekker, the Spikes slip over most any shoe with a rubber ring – technically it’s called a “shoe harness.”

The Spikes come in four sizes, and from what I can tell you’re better off to go with the tightest possible fit. That leaves little room for slippage.

Unlike Yaktrax, which I also like, the Spikes feature a stainless chain and threeeighths-inch spikes. The Yaktrax, by way of comparison, involves a rubber core wrapped in a springy coil.

I’ve found the Yaktrax useful on flat trails, but on more precarious terrain, they tend to roll a bit. The Spikes have no such problem.

In fact, I’d be inclined to wear MicroSpikes nearly anywhere I’d wear crampons, other than technical ice and hardcore mountaineering.

They’re super-light and will fit on just about any shoe, from trail runners to Sorels. They also can be folded up tightly enough to fit in a jacket pocket.

Unlike crampons, they’re easy to walk with and pose no danger to the inside of your calves.

Given all that, I’ve put these babies on my Christmas list.

It’s possible that K2’s new, top-of-the-line snowboard may have some advantage over my Zeppelin, but it’s probably not a difference I’d notice.

MicroSpikes, however, I’ll notice every time I’m not slipping on that last bit of precarious trail at the top of Sentinel.

Reporter Michael Moore can be reached at 523-5252 or at mmoore@ missoulian.com.

MONTANA ADVENTURER

WINTER 2009-10 17

ROBIN CARLETON

Most of the ice climbs in western Montana are based on either seeps or waterfalls and are shaped by snowfall and recurring thaw/freeze cycles.

On ice

Cold-weather climbing available around Missoula

By MICHAEL MOORE of the Missoulian

Last Christmas, amid the clatter of reindeer hooves and fat men in the chimney, we had ourselves a strange and ultimately wonderful moment wherein I received a new K2 snowboard from my loving family.

Ordinarily, such a gift would be met with open arms and anxious feet. But the fact was, I’d just bought a new snowboard the season before – a development known to my sweetie but somehow overlooked – and didn’t need another.

The question then immediately became what might be an acceptable swap. Despite her reluctance to contribute to my preference for extreme sports, Jakki wound up giving me new technical ice tools, 18 WINTER 2009-10

which was great, as I was climbing on ancient tools.

Note, I am not talking about ice axes, by which I mean long, straight-shafted axes for mountaineering.

Ice tools are for vertical ice, the climbing of which exists on the outer edge of climbing in general.

It’s less risky than free soloing on rock – climbing without a rope – but not by much. The mantra of ice climbers everywhere is simple – Don’t fall!

The reason is the medium – ice. Some ice is supersolid, and falling on an ice screw sunk in such ice is relatively safe. Not nearly as safe as falling on a bolt or a cam placed in rock, but not utterly terrifying, either.

But lots of ice is sketchy – climbable but hardly the

MONTANA ADVENTURER

See ICE, Page 19

Ice

ICE ONLINE

Continued from Page 18

stuff you’d want to weight with a fall. Thus the no-fall maxim.

That goes double for early season ice, particularly in El Nino-ed western Montana.

Although most of the climbing here in western Montana is based on either seeps or waterfalls, ice climbs are invariably shaped by snowfall and recurring thaw/freeze cycles.

And that is where we’re lacking right now. Some of the ice climbs are starting to come “in,” but most are still a ways off, due in part to lack of snow. They’re just not fat.

Bozeman, on the other hand, got hammered by early season snows and Hyalite Canyon, the state’s premier ice-climbing destination, is off to an incredible start.

A recent post by Montana ice ace Joe Josephson, author of “Winter Dance,” a guide to ice climbing in Hyalite and elsewhere, suggests that just about the whole canyon is in good shape.

JoJo recently posted a solid report on MontanaIce.com, and it sounds like conditions set up perfectly for the Bozeman Ice Fest.

While rock hounds routinely debate whether Missoula or Bozeman is better located for rock climbing, Missoulians have to cede the ice title to Cat Country. We just don’t have anything that approximates either the density of climbs or the routinely better, east-of-

The ice-climbing community isn’t huge, but you can keep up with conditions by working the Web. For western Montana, try the Missoulian’s snow blog at www.montana snowsports.com, then turn to Robin Carleton’s www. infinitymountain.com.

Jim Earl is on top of Hyalite at www. montanaice.com and the tireless Chris Gibisch keeps up pretty well at chris gibisch.blogspot.com.

ROBIN CARLETON

The mantra for ice climbers everywhere is simple: Don’t fall! the-Divide conditions in Hyalite.

That said, there’s plenty of ice to be had within an hour or so’s drive of Missoula.

The premier learning area is Finley Creek, in the mountains west of U.S. Highway 93 between Evaro and Arlee. Finley has some climbs that can be toproped, taking much of the danger out of those initial forays up steep ice.

The Swan Slabs on the north-facing side of Blodgett Canyon near Hamilton offer some relatively easy climbing. If the weather has been cold

for a while, Blodgett Falls, which flows between the Nez Perce and Shoshone spires, can be worth the effort. It’s a three-mile hike in, but that generally keeps roadside climbers at bay. Once you’ve climbed the falls, there are numerous trees set up for rappels, so you can toprope to your heart’s content.

There’s good climbing at the far end of Lake Como, as well as up Bear Creek, near Victor. The ice is on the south-facing side of Bear Creek, so you have to cross the creek then work your way northwest to

MONTANA ADVENTURER

reach the climbs.

When it comes to big ice, Missoula-area climbers turn to Mission Falls, which provides numerous routes and an arduous approach. The falls freezes solidly in a run of unbroken cold weather, but it can stay pretty wet until winter really hunkers down.

Once the falls comes in, though, it’s as good as it gets in western Montana.

With the cold temps that set in around Thanksgiving and early December, western Montana ice should be shaping up pretty well. The El Nino weather pattern that leaves us short on snow won’t work in our favor, but with enough cold, we’ll be climbing soon.

Worst case scenario?

Head for the everdependable Hyalite.

Reporter Michael Moore can be reached at 523-5252 or at mmoore@missoulian. com.

WINTER 2009-10 19

Snowed in this winter?

Take armchair adventure

By GWEN FLORIO of the Missoulian

It’s not just “because it’s there” anymore.

That outlook – it’s the response by British mountaineer George Leigh Mallory upon being asked why he wanted to climb Everest – could also apply to generations of adventure books.

Mallory, who died on Everest a year after uttering what some call the most famous three words in mountaineering, didn’t write a book about his exploits, but plenty of folks wrote books about him, and about their own feats as well.

It’s a jam-packed genre on the seemingly single theme of man (testosterone tends to rule) amid nature.

Think Thor Heyerdahl’s “Kon-Tiki,” about crossing the Pacific on a balsa-wood raft, or Roald Amundson’s “My Life as an Explorer” about his Arctic and Antarctic adventures – not to mention Lewis and Clark’s journals.

20 WINTER 2009-10

More recently, there was the one-two punch in 1997 of Jon Krakauer’s “Into Thin Air,” about a disastrous Everest expedition, and Sebastian Junger’s “The Perfect Storm,” on a killer nor’easter off Gloucester, Mass.

All of those books fit the classic standoff-with-theelements aspect of outdoors/adventure writing, and that’s not totally to the genre’s benefit, said several Montana writers whose work gets filed in that category.

“It’s an industry now,” said Missoula kayaker Doug Ammons (“Whitewater Philosophy,” “The Laugh of the Water Nymph”).

“Although technically speaking people are really, really skilled at telling these stories, I think the stories lack depth. ... It’s such a rote stereotype. Adventure means risk, sensation. It’s all (B.S.).”

The result, said Tim Cahill of Livingston, is “the underlying message of the

book is that ‘I can climb this mountain and you can’t.’ ” This gentle rebuke, mind you, from someone whose work includes “Jaguars Ripped My Flesh” and “A Wolverine is Eating my Leg.” Despite his mocking tough-guy titles, Cahill set out to do something different with those books and others. As he wrote in his introduction to “Pass the Butterworms,” his aim was to change the stereotype of such tales as “directed, apparently, at semiliterate, semi-sad bachelors interested primarily in the ‘nymphos’ who, in this genre, seemed to populate the jungles and mountains at the various ends of the earth.”

He was spurred, in part, by a book from 1950s, “A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush,” by Eric Newby, one that Cahill calls ahead of its time in tone.

“He uses humor and self-deprecation,” Cahill said, two qualities that have made his own books

MONTANA ADVENTURER

enormously successful.

Newby, he said, “had a real, genuine adventure that one could see one’s own self having and that’s what made the book for me.”

Likewise, Cahill recommends “Shooting the Boh: A Woman’s Voyage Down the Wildest River in Borneo,” Tracy Johnston’s account of a journey in which hot flashes prove nearly as distressing as episodes threatening life and limb. “Only a woman could have written this wonderfully funny book,” Cahill said.

Jon Turk, who divides his time between Darby and Fernie, in British Columbia, picked up on that thread.

High on his list is Maria Coffey’s “Explorers of the Infinite.”

Turk, who has kayaked, climbed, mountain-biked and skied in some of the world’s most remote places, says he’s read adventure books for five decades and has more or less lost his enthusiasm for the See ADVENTURE, Page 21

FOR ARMCHAIR TRAVELERS Montana is blessed with a host of authors whose books fall into the adventure/outdoors/travel category. Here are some of their favorite books, including some they read as children: n “Endurance: Shackleton’s Incredible Voyage,” Alfred Lansing.

This book gets its own category because so many people recommended it.

Conrad Anker, Doug Ammons, David Quammen. n Doug Ammons, Missoula (“The Laugh of the Water Nymph: And Other River Stories”): “Almost anything Jack London writes.” Joseph Conrad’s “Sea Stories.”

Books about Spanish explorer Lope de Aguirre’s ill-fated search for El Dorado. n Conrad Anker, Bozeman (“The Lost Explorer: Finding Mallory on Mt. Everest,” with David Roberts). “The Adventures of Tom Sawyer” and “The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn,” Mark Twain.

Adventure Continued

stereotypical chestthumper.

“But what does seem to be happening right now is that there seems to be a sub-genre going on ... and my books fall into this category, of people who go out into the wilderness and come back with some sort of a spiritual awakening.

“To me, that’s a lot more

“Mawson’s Will: The Greatest Polar Survival Story Ever Written,” Lennard Bickel and Sir Edmund Hillary. “No Picnic on Mount Kenya: A Daring Escape, a Perilous Climb,” Felice Benuzzi – on Italian soldiers who escaped a British prisoner-of-war camp in East Africa solely to climb Mount Kenya. n Tim Cahill, Livingston (“Road Fever”): “Richard Halliburton’s Complete Book of Marvels.” “A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush,” Eric Newby. “Shooting the Boh: A Woman’s Voyage Down the Wildest River in Borneo,” Tracy Johnston. n David Quammen, Bozeman (“Monster of God: The Man-Eating

Predator in the Jungles of History and the Mind”): The works of Tim Cahill and Jon Krakauer. “The Voyage of the Beagle,” Charles Darwin. n Peter Stark, Missoula (“The Last Empty Places: A Past and Present Journey Through the Blank Spots on the American Map,” May 2010): “Coming into the Country,” John McPhee. “The Snow Leopard,” Peter Matthiessen. Edward Hoagland’s essays. “A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush,” Eric Newby. “Blue Highways: A Journey into American,” William Least Heat-Moon. “In Patagonia,” Bruce Chatwin. Tim Cahill’s books.

interesting than the genre that says, ‘I did this and I’m brave and clean and stronger than you are and this is amazing. ’” Coffey, whose partner died on Everest, subtitled her book: “The Secret Spiritual Lives of Extreme Athletes – and What They Reveal About Near-Death Experiences, Psychic Communication, and Touching the Beyond.” Turk likened her book to this year’s “Forget Me Not: A

Memoir,” by Jennifer LoweAnker, whose husband, climber Alex Lowe, was killed by a 1999 avalanche in Tiber. Jennifer later married his friend, Conard Anker, injured in the same accident.

“A beautiful classic,” Turk called that book.

As with Coffey’s work, the subtitle tells much about Turk’s new book, “The Raven’s Gift: A Scientist, A Shaman, and Their Remarkable Journey

MONTANA ADVENTURER

n Jon Turk (“The Raven’s Gift: A Scientist, a Shaman, and Their Remarkable Journey Through the Siberian Wilderness,” January 2010): “Explorers of the Infinite: The Secret Spiritual Lives of Extreme Athletes – and What They Reveal About Near-Death Experiences, Psychic Communication, and Touching the Beyond,” Maria Coffey. “Forget Me Not: A Memoir,” Jennifer Lowe-Anker. n And, if that’s not enough, you can check out National Geographic’s Top 100 adventure books at www.nationalgeographic. com/adventure/0404/ adventure_books.html.

Through the Siberian Wilderness,” coming out in January.

“It’s about spiritual connection,” said Turk, of his repeated travels to meet with a shaman in Siberia. As a result of those meetings, he said, “I travel differently.

I’m traveling alone now, I’m traveling in extreme environments but with a totally different head space about them and it’s been absolutely wonderful.”

See ADVENTURE, Page 23 WINTER 2009-10 21

Warm up with cocoa, glögg

By KEILA SZPALLER of the Missoulian

Even the fluffiest powder doesn’t mean you can ski out there forever.

You need breaks, warmups, and the tastiest hot toddies. There’s Swedish mulled wine, Castillian hot cocoa, and a favorite summer drink dressed up for winter.

The last suggestion is a hot cup made with Firefly Vodka, a suggestion from Young’s Market Co. liquor rep Mollie Wackler.

“People are making it at home because the Firefly season ended, so they’re trying to find different ways to drink it because they love it so much,” Wackler said.

See, Firefly is a sweet vodka that’s flavored like iced tea. It was popular in the summertime, and it’s getting special treatment for the wintertime.

“They’re taking Firefly with hot water and they’re squeezing lemon in it,” Wackler said.

Sounds almost frighteningly healthy. If you like something a little more creamy, say, hot chocolate that resembles drinkable pudding, try cooking up this recipe. It’s from “Vegetarian Epicure, Book Two,” and a favorite of Missoulian city editor Gwen Florio.

1/2 cup unsweetened powdered cocoa 1 cup sugar 7 teaspoons cornstarch (cornflour) 1/2 cup water 4 cups milk 1. Mix the cocoa and 22 WINTER 2009-10

sugar together.

2. Dissolve the cornstarch (cornflour) in the water and combine with the cocoa-sugar mixture in a medium-sized saucepan.

Stir this until it is a smooth paste.

3. Begin heating this mixture, continuously stirring it with a whisk.

Gradually pour in the milk.

Continue stirring as you bring it to a simmer.

4. Simmer, stirring often, for about 10 minutes.

The cocoa is ready when it thickens and is glossy and smooth.

There’s no step 5, but it must be this: Enjoy. Repeat.

Repeat. Etc. If you’d rather have someone else magically create your hot chocolate, head to Posh Chocolat. You can warm your hands and tummy for $4 on a cup of thick cocoa, and even if you want to, you’ll never have to cook this one yourself.

“It’s the shop’s secret recipe, and the shop isn’t able to divulge all its secrets,” said Posh’s Christine Tharp.

This recipe is based on one from the book “Var Så God: Heritage and Favorite Recipes/Handbook Swedish Traditions” by the American Swedish Institute in Minneapolis. I have made some changes.

Swedish-American Glögg by Charles Nelson, adapted by me. (The original calls for all of the bourbon AND a fifth of Rock and Rye, whatever that is!)

1 gallon red wine (I use a shiraz or cabernet sauvignon). Cheap is fine, as it gets heavily spiced.

1 fifth of bourbon or blended whiskey OR use vodka as alternative.

1/2 cup to 1 cup sugar – a bit more can be added to taste if necessary.

In a cheese cloth, combine the following and make into bundle: 3 to 6 sticks cinnamon 1/3 cup dried orange peels 1 to 2 tablespoons

Swedish glögg, or mulled wine, is a favorite of Missoulian photographer Linda Thompson, a Swede herself. Here are explicit instructions from Thompson:

Glögg is a Swedish mulled wine that is usually served in small coffee cups.

(A little goes a long way.)

The drink is usually served with sides of slivered almonds, and raisins. They are like glögg condiments and go in the drink.

MONTANA ADVENTURER

chopped ginger, preferably in chunks, not ground Peels from 1 washed orange Make a second bundle with the following: 12 cardamom pods 12 cloves Pour wine and half of the hard alcohol into a large kettle.

Place on low heat, add spice bundles. Bring the mixture to a simmer (DO NOT BOIL).

Add the sugar a little at a time to taste, cover, and continue to simmer for 10 to 20 minutes.

Add rest of hard alcohol to taste – but too much will make it bitter.

Turn off the burner and let stand.

Remove the cardamom and cloves bundle (note the cardamom and cloves must be removed after cooking as they affect the taste if left See WARM UP, Page 23

Adventure

which contains “this astonishing description of the living, exploding sea and these tiny men in this vastness, and the depth of the psychological understanding of the people facing it. It’s got everything going for it.”

That same theme underscores what he attempts to do in his own work, “to use these outer journeys to get to inner journeys.” All the proceeds from sales of Ammons’ books support a school in Tibet.

As for Jon Turk, he says that these days, when he sits down with a book, it’s likely to be something like “Breakfast with Buddha,” a novel about a cookbook writer who “through a somewhat contrived set of circumstances” ends up on a cross-country road trip

Continued from Page 21

For Missoula’s Peter Stark (“Last Breath: The Limits of Adventure”) the book that pushed him toward that space was Peter Mathiessen’s “The Snow Leopard.” “I came to understand the travelogue as a vehicle for a much greater exploration – an intellectual exploration, or an emotional exploration or even a spiritual exploration.”

For those same reasons, Missoula’s Ammons avoids much modern-day adventure writing and sticks with classics, such as the tales of Joseph Conrad, perhaps best known for his “Heart of Darkness.” One of Ammons’ favorites is a short story, “Typhoon,”

with a Zen guru. In its lighthearted way, he said, the novel examines the same question he takes on in “The Raven’s Gift” – about someone suddenly finding himself thrust into a more spiritual realm.

The same thing is happening with the adventure book genre, he said.

A decade ago, books like “The Perfect Storm” and “Into Thin Air” “talked about death and tragedy, but they don’t talk about that spiritual connectivity,” Turk said. “I’m not criticizing – they’re great books.

“But I think it’s time for the genre to move on.”

Missoulian city editor Gwen Florio can be reached at 523-5268 or at gwen florio@missoulian.com.

Warm up Continued from Page 22

in. Other bundle may remain).

Serve hot in small cups with raisins and almonds in each cup.

You might serve this with ginger snaps, a spiced bread or cardamom rolls – cinnamon buns will do in a pinch.

The disclaimer from my mother: The TRUE glögg is more simple – no bourbon and an optional bit of vodka at the end.

P.S. Make sure you have a DD. A little goes a long way!

Reporter Keila Szpaller can be reached at 5235262, keila.szpaller@ missoulian.com or on MissoulaRedTape.com.

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TOM BAUER/Missoulian

Once winter comes, the Skalkaho Highway from Hamilton to Georgetown Lake is closed to four-wheeled traffic and becomes a scenic paradise for snow machines.

Scenic snowmobiling Skalkaho has miles of trails for snow machines PERRY BACKUS Ravalli Republic

HAMILTON – Dan Thompson has traveled down just about every snowmobile trail within three hours’ drive of his home in the Bitterroot Valley.

To his way of thinking, there’s no place that can touch Skalkaho Pass for its scenery, ease of access and miles of untouched snow it offers to those willing to explore.

“The scenery up Cripple Creek is just spectacular,” Thompson said. “On top of that, it provides access into the Sand Basin area on the Beaverhead-Deerlodge National Forest where there are plenty of nice big 24

WINTER 2009-10

undisturbed meadows to play in.

“The best part of that area is that it’s not crowded and it’s beautiful there, too,” he said.

In the summertime, travelers take the Skalkaho Highway from Hamilton to Georgetown Lake as a scenic alternative to the four lanes of Interstate 90.

In the winter, the barricades go up and the roadway is shut down to four-wheeled traffic. During the coldest of months, the views of a frozen Skalkaho Falls, the craggy peaks and deep canyons are reserved for snowmobilers and a few hardy cross-country skiers.

MONTANA ADVENTURER

See SCENIC, Page 25

Scenic Continued from Page 24

Snowmobilers can access two different trail systems from the trailhead.

The Skalkaho Pass Area offers 26 miles of groomed trails. From there, open areas and ungroomed trails offer a wide variety of terrain for all skill levels.

The Skalkaho-Sleeping Child-Rye Creek Area has 32 miles of groomed trails, looping through higher elevations, through a burned area and back to the head of Rye Creek. The loop can also be entered from Rye Creek, south of Darby.

On a busy weekend, don’t expect to be there alone.

“It’s a popular place any more,” Thompson said. “In the middle of the season, you might see as many as 200 sleds over the weekend.

Many of the old-time snowmobilers won’t go there because it’s too crowded for them.”

Those folks might head up to the Lost Horse or Lost Trail areas, which both offer many miles of ungroomed trails to explore.

For groomed travel, Skalkaho Pass is the place to go.

The Bitterroot Rider Runners Snowmobile Club started grooming the trails in 1987. The very first groomer came in the form of a used workhorse SkiDoo and a small pull-behind groomer, thanks to Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks.

That first groomer created a trail that wasn’t much wider than a snowmobile track.

These days, club volunteers maneuver a high-tech, double-track $100,000-plus groomer up

TOM BAUER/Missoulian

The Skalkaho Pass area has 26 miles of groomed trails and a variety of open areas and ungroomed trails for all skill levels.

GOING TO SKALKAHO Access to the Skalkaho snowmobile area is two miles south of Hamilton, then 15 miles east on Skalkaho Highway.

and over the nearly 8,000foot pass in 10-hour shifts to keep the trails smooth.

“With the amount of traffic we see up there, the trails would be filled with huge moguls without the groomer,” Thompson said.

“We all appreciate the volunteer efforts that make that possible.”

The 130 or so members of the Bitterroot Ridge Runners Club own the shed that houses the groomer. They also raised the money to purchase the truck and trailer used to transport the machine to the trailhead.

The state owns the groomer and provides the funding the club needs to operate it each year.

That money to pay for the

grooming program comes from gasoline taxes, registration fees and nonresident permits.

The state’s snowmobile grooming program dates back to the 1970s, when a handful of clubs struck a deal with FWP to offer their time in exchange for financial backing to pay for groomers and their operation.

Today, nearly 30 snowmobile clubs receive funding from the program around the state. The state owns about 20 full-sized groomers, which are leased to the clubs.

Every year, the clubs groom about 4,000 miles of trail around the state.

MONTANA ADVENTURER

Resident snowmobilers spend about $91 million a year, according to a study completed in 2006.

Nonresident snowmobilers add $27.5 million more.

For more information about the Skalkaho area, contact: n Bitterroot National Forest Office, 1801 N. First St., Hamilton, MT 59840, (406) 363-7100. n Darby Ranger District, Bitterroot National Forest, P.O. Box 388, Darby, MT 59829, (406) 821-3913. n Bitterroot Chamber of Commerce, 105 E. Main St., Hamilton, MT 59840, (406) 363-2400, www.bitterroot valleychamber.com. n Bitterroot Ridge Runners Snowmobile Club, P.O. Box 265, Hamilton, MT 59840, (406) 360-1509, www.ridgerunners.org.

Ravalli Republic editor Perry Backus can be reached at 363-3300 or at editor@ ravallirepublic.com.

WINTER 2009-10

25

COMPETE! DECEMBER

Sunday, December 20

Kick-Out-the-Kinks Benefit Ski Race Where: Essex Contact: stay@izaakwaltoninn.com Thursday, December 31

New Year’s Eve Run/Party Where: Bozeman Contact: www.winddrinkers.org

JANUARY Saturday, January 9

Community Race Series – Alpine & Telemark Where: Bozeman Contact: www.bridgerbowl.com Friday, January 15

Seeley Lake Sled Dog Race (through Jan 17) Where: Lincoln Contact: http://seeleylakedograces.com Saturday, January 23

Seeley Lake Challenge Biathlon Where: Seeley Lake Contact: www.seeleylakechamber.com

Stan Shaefer Memorial Ice Fishing Derby Where: Dillon Contact: hunterstaxidermy@hughes.net

Lion’s Club Perch Ice Fishing Derby (through Jan 24) Where: Townsend Contact: 406-266-5790

Whitefish Whiteout Ski Mountaineering Race Where: Whitefish Contact: www.skiwhitefish.com

Wednesday, January 27

Alpine Evening Race Series Begins Where: Missoula Contact: www.montanasnowbowl.com Friday, January 29

Ski to Win/Randonnee Festival (through Jan 30) Where: Bozeman Contact: www.bridgerbowl.com Saturday, January 30

Frost Fever 5K Fun Run Where: Missoula Contact: www.missoulaparks.org

Ice Fishing Derby (through Jan 31) Where: Havre Contact: www.havremt.com

FEBRUARY Friday, February 12

Race to the Sky Sled Dog Race (through Feb 16) Where: Helena Contact: www.racetothesky.org Saturday, February 13

Legends of the Wulf Nordic Ski Race Where: Anaconda Contact: http://missoulanordic.org

Northern Division Freestyle Competition (through Feb 14) Where: Missoula Contact: www.montanasnowbowl.com Saturday, February 20

Ice Fishing Tournament Where: Glasgow Contact: www.glasgowmt.net

COMPETE! Friday, February 26

West Yellowstone Sled Dog Races – Wild West Stage Race (through Mar 5) Where: West Yellowstone Contact: rodeosconcrete@msn.com

Saturday, March 13

Annual St. Patrick’s Race Where: Anaconda Contact: www.anaconda-aoh.com

National Finals Ski Joring Races (through Mar 14) Saturday, February 27

Terrain Park Jam Snowboard/Skier (through Feb 28) Where: Bozeman Contact: www.bridgerbowl.com

Where: Red Lodge Contact: www.redlodge.com/ski-joring Wednesday, March 17

Nate Chute Hawaiian Classic Snowbowl Cup Gelande Championship (through Feb 28) Where: Missoula Contact: www.montanasnowbowl.com

Where: Whitefish Contact: www.skiwhitefish.com Thursday, March 18

!

Sunday, February 28

Special Olympics State Winter Games (through Mar 5)

Where: Whitefish Contact: www.somt.org

MARCH Saturday, March 6

Rendezvous Cross-Country Ski Race Where: West Yellowstone Contact: www.rendezvousrace.com

US Telemark National Championships (through Mar 21) Where: Whitefish Contact: www.skiwhitefish.com Saturday, March 20

Annual Snow Rodeo (through Mar 21) Where: Essex Contact: stay@izaakwaltoninn.com

Best of the Bowl Where: Missoula Contact: www.montanasnowbowl.com

Pinhead Classic Where: Bozeman Contact: www.bridgerbowl.com

Sunday, March 21

Bridger Bump-Off Freestyle Competition Snowboard Jam Where: Missoula Contact: www.montanasnowbowl.com

Where: Bozeman Contact: www.bridgerbowl.com

Legend Run

Friday, March 12

Ski/Snowboard

Friday Night Big Air Where: Big Sky Contact: www.bigskyresort.com

List your competition

Fish

406.523.5223 advertising@missoulian.com

Dogsled

!

Other

Budget-friendly runs

LINDA THOMPSON/Missoulian

From deep snow and deep pockets to the more thrifty, western Montana ski areas offer a variety of terrain, snow conditions and costs to suit any desires.

15 Montana resorts offer skiing for any size wallet

By BRETT FRENCH Billings Gazette and MARY GERBER Missoulian

As the sun broke over the rim of the mountains, a warm, red light infused the surrounding terrain. The snow glowed a luminescent pink, our faces shone with a healthy ruddiness, and a mountain’s worth of runs, glades and bowls lay beneath our ski tips atop the ridge’s cornice.

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WINTER 2009-10

Yeehaw! What a great way to start a winter’s day.

Skiing and snowboarding in Montana is far removed from the ordinary. Fifteen ski areas dot the western half of the state, providing access to a variety of terrain at a price range to suit the tastes of beginners and experts, those with deep pockets and the thrifty.

Here’s a breakdown:

MONTANA ADVENTURER

See RUNS, Page 29

Runs Continued from Page 28

Cheap skis Even when gas, gear and groceries consume most of your paycheck, it’s still possible to find an inexpensive way to make some turns on Montana ski slopes.

Bear Paw Ski Bowl Located 29 miles south of Havre, this ski hill has adult tickets for only $20 a day, $18 for students 9 to 18. Children 8 and under ski free. The hill is only open Saturdays and Sundays, from 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. With one chair, one hand tow and a vertical drop of 900 feet, this is a small mountain. But if you’re a beginner, what more do you need? Ski and snowboard rentals are available in Havre.

On the Net: www.skibearpaw.com.

Great Divide Twenty-three miles north of Helena near the old mining town of Marysville, Great Divide offers 1,560 feet of vertical on 140 trails.

Adult tickets are $36 or $28 Wednesday, Thursday and Friday starting Jan. 6. Or ski from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. on Friday nights for only $9. A terrain park should keep snowboarding huckers happy, while the mountain’s five double chairs can efficiently move others around. Special lift and rental packages are available for beginners.

On the Net: www.skigd.com.

Turner Mountain Located 22 miles north of Libby, Turner Mountain sells adult tickets for $30, $25 for juniors and senior citizens, while children 6 and under

LINDA THOMPSON/Missoulian

While lift lines can sometimes mean a wait, it’s a good chance to check out what the other skiers are wearing. ski free. The ski area boasts 22 trails with 2,110 feet of vertical drop and an average snowfall of 250 inches.

While only one chair serves the mountain, half of the terrain is considered expert.

The hill is only open Friday through Sunday, except during the Christmas break and on holidays.

On the Net: www.skiturner.com.

Ski and soak There aren’t many things that go better with cold snow than hot springs. Close to some of Montana’s ski areas are natural springs that can warm and soothe your skitired body.

Discovery Basin Only minutes from Fairmont Hot Springs, Discovery Basin provides 1,670 feet of vertical on 63 trails. The ski area, overlooking Georgetown Lake, has a good variety of terrain to suit many abilities for skiers and snowboarders.

Adult tickets are $35.

On the Net: www.skidiscovery.com.

Lost Trail Powder Mountain This ski area can get some

big dumps of snow. So if you like to track powder, put this on your radar. The nearby Lost Trail Hot Springs apparently fell into some disrepair, but used to be a good site for a soak.

Management has said they’ve made changes after

some would-be buyers guilty of the shoddy service backed out. Adult tickets at the ski hill are $34. The area is only open Thursdays through Sundays, except over the Christmas season and on holidays. The terrain includes 1,800 feet of vertical and 300 inches of annual snowfall. The ski area is located 90 miles south of Missoula, at the head of the Bitterroot Valley.

On the Net: www.losttrail.com.

Maverick Mountain Hidden in southwestern Montana’s Pioneer Mountains, Maverick can boast low rates and two nearby places to plunge into hot water – Jackson Hot Springs Lodge and Elkhorn Hot Springs. The ski hill features 2,020 feet of vertical See RUNS, Page 30

H H oliday

ayrides

T

he bells will ring as Percheron Draft Horses pull us along the river and through the woods. Then we’ll warm by the campfire with hot chocolate and roast marshmallows or add an outdoor tent camp dinner (steak or chili).

Call NOW for Appointment: 821-0247

CABIN CREEK OUTFITTERS

MONTANA ADVENTURER

Rex Griffin, Darby MT • 821-0247

WINTER 2009-10

29

Runs Continued from Page 29

spread out across 24 trails.

The mountain’s annual snowfall is 180 inches, accessed by one double chair and a rope tow. Adult tickets are $30.

On the Net: www.skimaverick.com.

Showdown Montana High atop the Little Belt Mountains, Showdown Montana offers a family environment while nearby White Sulphur Springs serves up a hot pool.

Showdown, which celebrated its 70th season last year, is famous for its early snowfalls that average 245 inches a year. The mountain’s 1,400 feet of vertical drop is serviced by one triple and two double chairlifts. Adult full-day tickets cost $35.

On the Net: www. showdownmontana.com.

Midrange mountains Bigger doesn’t always mean better when you consider Montana’s midrange mountains.

Blacktail Mountain Ski Area Overlooking Flathead Lake, about 45 minutes from downtown Kalispell, Blacktail provides skiers and snowboarders with 1,400 feet of vertical serviced by one triple chair and two doubles. An adult ticket is $36 a day, which gives skiers access to 26 trails. Ski on Thrifty Thursdays (excluding holidays) for $25.

On the Net: www. blacktailmountain.com.

Lookout Pass Ski Area This ski hill is so far north (30 miles north of St. Regis off Interstate 90) that it 30

WINTER 2009-10

TOM BAUER/Missoulian

Family skiing is available at nearly any of the ski hills in the area with some terrain suitable for beginners. shares some trails with Idaho. Notoriously snowy country, the high mountains generate about 400 inches of snow annually. With 1,150 feet of vertical, the hill dishes up 34 runs at a midweek rate of $31 for adults ($34 weekends and holidays). The mountain is open Thursdays through

Mondays, as well as during Christmas break and on holidays. In January and February, the mountain also will be open Wednesdays.

On the Net: www.skilookout.com.

Montana Snowbowl Located only minutes from downtown Missoula,

MONTANA ADVENTURER

Snowbowl is famous for its tricky terrain. Two highcapacity double chairlifts quickly carry skiers and boarders to the top of the mountain for the 2,600-foot drop. Forty-two runs spread winter enthusiasts out, including one that cruises See RUNS, Page 31

Runs Continued from Page 30

for three miles. The adult rate is $39 a day.

On the Net: www. montanasnowbowl.com.

Crème de la crème The state’s top mountains are top-rated for some simple reasons – lots of variety, good snow conditions and high-speed lifts that quickly cart your carcass to the top of the mountain.

Big Sky Resort This is the state’s big kahuna; no one else can compete with the amount of terrain, vertical drop and number of lifts. With 4,350 feet of vertical that descends from Lone Mountain, the longest run is six freaking miles. But fear not, about 40 percent of the terrain is rated for beginners and intermediates.

Snowboarders will find a half pipe, rails and other features to grind their gear on. An adult ticket is $79 a day, but deals are offered throughout the year, as well as discounts available through package and pass deals. Big Sky is located about an hour south of Bozeman via the Gallatin Canyon.

On the Net: www.bigskyresort.com.

Bridger Bowl Powder hounds from Bozeman love this home hill which is known for its “cold smoke.” And a new lift added last year caters to these hardy backcountry skiers, where an avalanche beeper is required equipment. At an adult lift ticket price of $45 skiers and boarders can spread out on 75 runs. Bridger Bowl is about 20 minutes northeast

A ride up the chairlift can be a good chance to catch your breath after a run down the slopes.

of Bozeman.

On the Net: www.bridgerbowl.com.

Moonlight Basin Big Sky’s next door neighbor may be smaller, but it’s got some grand terrain.

Located on the north side of Lone Mountain, the hill boasts 4,150 feet of vertical and 76 runs. Experts can try the ridge’s upper chutes, while beginners and intermediates can stick to the lower mountain. An adult full day ticket is $55.

On the Net: www.moonlightbasin.com.

Red Lodge Mountain Red Lodge Mountain will be celebrating its 50th season this winter with festivities and deals. Just minutes from downtown Red Lodge, at the base of the magnificent Beartooth Mountains, the ski area has bragging rights to 2,400 feet of vertical accessed by 65 trails. Snowboarders can frolic in the terrain park, or take to the trees to track powder. The adult rate is $47 a day.

On the Net: www. redlodgemountain.com.

Whitefish Mountain Resort The second-largest ski area in the state, Whitefish Mountain provides northwestern Montana with its own bragging rights.

Located eight miles northwest of Whitefish, the mountain has 2,353 feet of vertical crisscrossed by 94 trails. Three quad chairlifts quickly whisk skiers and snowboarders to the top of the mountain that sees 300 inches of annual snowfall. A terrain park features gaps, berms and tabletops for snowboarders. The adult rate is $61.

On the Net: www.skiwhitefish.com.

TOM BAUER/Missoulian

WINTER GETAWAYS Relax & Rejuvenate Only 30 minutes from Missoula 38600 Highway 12 West - Lolo 406-273-2201

7900 Stay & Swim Package

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MONTANA ADVENTURER

• Huge Gathering Lobby featuring movies, games and books • • On-site Restaurant & Lounge •

WINTER 2009-10

31

LISA KUNKEL/Helena Independent Record

Nyla and Kevin Taylor bought the Great Divide ski area in 1985 and have since raised three daughters there.

Ski family

By EVE BYRON Helena Independent Record

The Taylor family – Kevin and Nyla, and daughters Emily, Betsy and Adrienne – might be considered the ultimate ski bums.

Don’t get this wrong, however.

Owning a ski hill like Great Divide is a lot of work.

The Taylors can put in 14-hour days during the fivemonth ski season. They have hordes of people in their front yard during that time, all wanting something, whether it’s lift tickets, food, drinks or the dozens of other skier needs. If they’re not working in the lodge, snowmaking hoses always need to be moved, lift tickets 32

WINTER 2009-10

Great Divide owners enjoy life on slopes

need to be checked and injured skiers need attention.

Once the snow is gone, the summer days are filled with cutting in new runs, fixing equipment and making improvements.

“One year, the girls wanted to buy JetSkis, so we made them dig holes under (tree) stumps so we could blow them up,” Nyla recalled recently, laughing. “By the middle of the summer they said they didn’t want the JetSkis that much.”

Yet there’s something special about being raised at a ski area. First tracks laid down in champagne powder so deep you need a snorkel just to breathe. Magical

MONTANA ADVENTURER

See FAMILY, Page 33

Family Continued from Page 32

moments when moonlight glistens off hoarfrost-laced trees. Having mom use the bulldozer to build a dirt bike race course. Swimming in wetsuits in the 44-degree wooden barrel used to hold water for snowmaking.

“We learned how to drive by the time we were 9, completely by ourselves,” said Emily, now 23. “We skied all the time when we were little. I was an instructor by the time I was 11 and a ski patroller when I was 16.

“Me and Betsy learned how to drive an excavator when we were about 10 years old. We weren’t very good at it, but we could dig a hole.”

Kevin and Nyla Taylor didn’t start out thinking they would someday own a ski hill. In fact, it was a broken down truck in Wyoming that got Kevin, a Pennsylvania native, into the business.

“I was out elk hunting in the hills above Laramie when my truck died. I was so mad I turned around and shot it,” Kevin said with a grin.

He walked to the nearby Happy Jack ski hill, where he asked for a ride and a job.

He got both.

“I ran the lifts, then the rental shop and then I was mountain manager,” Kevin recalls. Meanwhile he also earned a degree in marketing, followed by a master’s in finance.

He bounced around the ski circuit, working in Colorado at resorts in Vail, Arapahoe Basin and Beaver Creek and for the Wyoming office of tourism.

BLACKTOP TO MARYSVILLE People driving to Marysville no longer take the “Marysville Road.”

With a freshly paved road, complete with shoulders and guardrails, it’s now fondly known as the “Marysville Highway” to the locals, Great Divide Ski Area owner Kevin Taylor says with a laugh.

Sure, there are a few places where the ground settled and a torrential downpour earlier this summer made it unstable, so the work isn’t quite finished yet, noted Lewis and Clark County Public Works Director Eric Griffin.

“We’ll let it sit over winter and see if it quits moving,” Griffin said. “There are two spots that we’ve patched that are still settling. It’s unfortunate, but the road is wonderful.”

The six-mile stretch from the Lincoln Road turnoff to Marysville is now 28 feet wide, with a blacktop surface and distinct pavement markings.

The $8.9 million project was paid for mainly with federal funds, Griffin said, although the state paid a small portion and the county contributed staff time.

The pavement doesn’t yet stretch all the way from Marysville to Great Divide, but Taylor said he’ll continue to push for that. Some work already has been done there, with guardrails on the particularly sharp curves.

“It’s quite an improvement,” Taylor said.

Eve Byron, Helena Independent Record Eventually he landed in Red Lodge, where he fell in love with the bartender.

“I had a great job in Billings, making good money, but I just quit and left everything to start working at the bar in Red Lodge,” Nyla said. “I was just going to do that for a year or two, then go to college.”

Instead, she and Kevin married, and they moved to the Black Hills in South Dakota to run a ski area near Lead. They were making good money, but didn’t like working for someone else and decided to buy their own. They looked at ski areas in Arizona, Colorado and New Mexico, but settled on Great Divide in 1985, buying it for around $12,000 and the promise that the 1,400 certified ski

club members could get half-price passes for the rest of their lives.

“We had a lot of money saved up, but it disappeared fast,” Kevin recalls.

“When we first bought the place and signed the papers, I walked up and saw holes in the deck. Then when I saw the kitchen I started crying, wondering what we had done,” Nyla added. “I was five months pregnant with Emily and we had been living the high life, being wined and dined and flown around by these ski areas that wanted us to buy them. After buying this, we didn’t go out to dinner for three years.”

Emily was followed by Betsy who was followed by Adrienne. Instead of fancy dinners, they had picnics and wine in the summer on

MONTANA ADVENTURER

their own slopes. They took long walks, bought horses, and Nyla learned to run bulldozers, excavators and other heavy equipment.

They were stay-at-home parents yet brought their children to work with them, with Nyla setting the girls in wind-up swings while she flipped burgers in the lodge, or letting them fall asleep on warm coats behind the bar while their parents poured drinks.

“It wasn’t much different than running a farm or a ranch,” Kevin said.

And like all rural families, they have their adventure stories. Nyla recalls a horrified customer telling her the girls were lying under a cattle guard one day, watching cars drive over them. Another time they were clad in tutus, iceskating down a ski run.

Then there was the time they had a battery-activated baby doll that quivered, and they girls put it in a backpack and took it skiing, shocking a guest who thought the doll was real.

“They’re really creative, and sometimes that’s not so good,” Nyla says, laughing again. “But we have a lot of fun, probably too much fun sometimes.”

These days, the girls are grown. Emily still works at the ski area, but Betsy has a job in town, working parttime on the hill, and Adrienne has moved to Utah where she is – you guessed it – a ski bum.

“She says she’s going to school, but come ski season ...” Kevin says, his voice trailing off.

“As long as they’re happy,” Nyla adds.

Reporter Eve Byron can be reached at (406) 4474076 or at eve.byron@ helenair.com.

WINTER 2009-10

33

Ski, snowmobile, soak at end of road in Elkhorn

By PAULA J. MCGARVEY for Montana Adventurer

If you’re looking for a getaway when the snow starts to fly, Elkhorn Hot Springs is located in the heart of a winter wonderland.

The rustic resort offers access to 20 miles of groomed cross-country ski trails, more than 200 miles of groomed snowmobile trails, and is located just three miles from Maverick Mountain downhill ski area.

Guests can create the perfect ending to a winter’s day with a hot meal in the restaurant followed by a hot soak beneath the starry sky in the resort’s outdoor mineral springs.

Built in the early 1900s, Elkhorn Hot Springs offers guests a chance to experience an era gone by.

The resort is currently owned by the Lovaas family.

“It’s unique,” Patty Lovaas said. “It’s old-time Montana. There’s not many places like this left in Montana.”

Paul Lovaas, her son, added, “It’s quiet and laidback,” pointing out that there’s no cell-phone coverage at the resort and that the road to Wise River is only open during summer months. “Basically, we’re the end of the road in the winter,” he said.

Lodging ranges from “roughing it” in one of the resort’s nine rustic cabins, heated by wood and with no 34

WINTER 2009-10

ALL ABOUT ELKHORN Directions: From Interstate 15, take the Jackson/Wisdom exit, two miles southwest of Dillon, to Montana Highway 278. Stay on Highway 278 for 25 miles to the turnoff for the Pioneer Scenic Byway, heading north toward Polaris. Elkhorn Hot Springs is 13 miles from the turnoff.

Rates: Lodging starts at $45 per person for a single lodge room, $70 double occupancy for rustic cabins, and $90 double occupancy for the modern cabin. Breakfast and admission to pools are included.

The hot springs are open to the public from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. on weekdays and until 10 p.m. on weekends.

Daily admission to the pools is $6 for adults and $4 for children ages 4-15. Children 3 and under are free.

Group rates are available. Restrained pets are welcome for an additional $5 per day. All major credit cards and in-state checks are accepted.

Restaurant: The restaurant is open to overnight guests for breakfast daily until 10:30 a.m. It is open to guests and the general public for limited hours during the weekday, with expanded hours on weekends. The chef offers weekend specials. Food is moderately priced American cuisine and reservations are recommended. Call for current hours.

Rentals: Elkhorn Hot Springs also offers crosscountry ski and snowshoe rentals, half- and full-day rentals of Polaris snowmobiles, and snowmobile suits, gloves and boots. Call for current rates.

For more information: Call (406) 834-3434 or 1800-722-8978, or visit www.elkhornhotsprings.com.

indoor plumbing, to the modern conveniences of a heated cabin, complete with bathroom and shower.

Rooms to rent are also available upstairs in the restaurant and lodge building, with access to a community bathroom at the end of the hall.

Paul Lovaas said that Elkhorn can accommodate groups of 80 or more and has a meeting room

available in the second floor of the pool house. “We do a lot of groups in the winter,” Patty Lovaas added.

Elkhorn Hot Springs has two outdoor, hot mineral pools adjacent to the pool house.

“They stay about 100 degrees,” Patty Lovaas said.

There is a hotter, wet sauna located inside the pool house. The hot springs, open to the public, and

MONTANA ADVENTURER

men’s and women’s changing areas with showers are available to visitors and overnight guests. Food and snacks are available at the pool house and include heaping portions of hand-scooped ice cream served in cones and cups.

“We have people that drive up from Dillon just to get ice cream and swim,” Patty said.

Elkhorn’s chef, Christopher Jackson, is a Colorado native and was trained at the Culinary Institute of America in San Francisco. He worked extensively in San Diego before coming to Montana.

He serves moderately priced American cuisine.

Weekend guests are served a buffet breakfast, and on weekdays are offered a continental breakfast. The restaurant is open to the general public for limited hours on weekdays, with expanded hours on weekends.

“Reservations are recommended on the weekend,” Jackson said.

Menu items include appetizers, burgers, steak, shrimp, chicken, pork chops and pasta. The dessert menu includes pie and ice cream.

“We offer a special every Friday, Saturday and Sunday,” Jackson said.

Specials include prime rib and international cuisine, including Italian, French and Mexican dishes.