Footwear Plus | March 2015

THE PLUS AWARD WINNERS

•

RAVING ABOUT VIONIC • SERVICE THE RITZ-CARLTON WAY • EDITOR’S PICKS : KILTIE CONSCIENCE

MARCH 2015 • VOL. 25 • ISSUE 3 • $10

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Caroline Diaco Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Tara Anne Dalbow Fashion Editor

MARCH 2015

Lauren Fusilier Assistant Editor Kathy Passero Editor at Large

14 Putting On the Ritz Ritz-Carlton Leadership Center VP Diana Oreck shares the hotel chain’s fabled service principles.

By Kathy Passero

Melodie Jeng Contributing Photographer Judy Leand Contributing Editor

18 Rave On Chris Gallagher, president and CEO of Vionic Group, on why fans of the brand are raving. By Greg Dutter

ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher

24 Winner’s Circle Industry leaders stepped out in style to celebrate the 16th annual Plus Award winners for design and retail excellence in New York.

Tim Jones Deputy Art Director Production Manager

24 The Artist Peter Hanig, owner of Hanig’s Footwear and recipient of the Plus Award for Lifetime Achievement, has made retailing an art form for more than 40 years.

By Greg Dutter

Joel Shupp Circulation Manager

30 Profiles in Excellence The 16th annual Plus Award winners: incredible designs, breakthrough product innovations and cutting-edge retail concepts.

By Tara Anne Dalbow, Lauren Fusilier, Judy Leand and Lyndsay McGregor

8 Editor’s Note 10 This Just In 12 Scene & Heard 46 Trend Spotting 62 Shoe Salon 64 Comfort

66 E-beat

68 Last Word

Capri Crescio Advertising Manager

Allison Kastner Operations Manager Bruce Sprague Circulation Director

Mike Hoff Digital Director

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FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

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E D I TO R ’S N OT E Made Their Bones

FROM STOCKROOMS TO BOARDROOMS Learning the language of retail can be the ticket to career success.

I’M BATTING A thousand so far this year on Q&As with wholesale executives. They all got their industry starts working in the stockrooms of shoe stores. Anthony Diks, CEO of Wolky (January); Larry Paparo, CEO LJP Intl. (February); and this month it’s Chris Gallagher, CEO of Vionic Group (p. 18). Each one began his career on the ground floor of retail and rose through the ranks before making a successful crossover into wholesale. They are surely not the only execs I’ve interviewed over the years with a pedigree that includes entry-level retail experience. Others we’ve featured in the past year who broke into the footwear business on the retail side include Angel Martinez, CEO of Deckers Brands; Bob Infantino, CEO of Drydock Footwear (and soon Rockport); Randy Watson, CEO of Justin Brands; Kevin Bailey, president of Vans; and Jim Van Dine, president of Hoka One One. Coincidence? I think not. These execs spent years in the trenches, earning their retail stripes—and battle scars—working long hours and servicing countless customers, many of whom were surely difficult. Through the daily process—often right at the fitting stool—as well as working in all facets of the business, they gained insights and experience that could never be learned in a school. Retail is an on-the-job training requirement, if there ever was one. Specifically, they learned the language of retail, which gave them an ability to connect (and commiserate) with retailers today. It’s one thing for a wholesale exec to offer an opinion about how a retailer might want to go about their business, but when it comes from someone who speaks from experience it carries more weight—and trust.

In the case of the aforementioned execs, their track records speak for themselves. They not only persevered in retail, they excelled.

So they aren’t just blowing smoke when they offer an opinion or a suggestion. Take Gallagher, for example, who dropped out of high school at age 16 to work full time and rocketed through the ranks of the (then Kinney-owned) Australia-based chain of 250 family shoe stores. In 15 years, he was managing the entire $400-million operation. I’d say he knows a thing or two about how to be a success-

ful retailer, and his insights on the topic in this issue bear that out.

What amazes me is how many randomly fell into the business yet became enormously successful. They just needed jobs—often while attending college and, in the case of Martinez and Van Dine, training in the hopes of making the U.S. Olympic Track and Field team. A career in the shoe business was the furthest thing from their minds at the time. But they excelled at it. And, along the way, they grew to love the business. Specifically, they loved the fast pace, the constant change, the potential for financial reward and the competition. In fact, if there’s one personality trait that runs through all the executives (wholesale and retail) I’ve interviewed over nearly two decades, it’s fierce competitiveness. They treat retail as a sport: They’re driven to outpace competitors; top weekly, monthly and yearly sales reports; and achieve personal bests. The “season” never really ends. It’s game on, 24-7, 365. And unlike most sports, where careers can be fleeting, in the retail game you can get better with age. What’s not to like?

These are the types of industry tales that need to be told. Too often retail gets a bad rap. It’s labeled a dead-end career with little potential for meaningful financial, professional or personal growth.

That doesn’t have to be the case. These execs (and many others who’ve remained on the retail side) are living proof. Plus Award Lifetime Achievement winner Peter Hanig, owner of Hanig’s Footwear in Chicago, is one such success story (p. 28). Nothing was handed to them. As Paparo proudly claimed in his interview: “I don’t come from a family of shoes or money. I started from the bottom and worked my way all the way up.” In other words, there’s no industry glass ceiling for those talented, tenacious and hungry enough.

Hearing retail career success stories like these not only inspires pride in our industry, it encourages others to strive for similar achievements, says Gallagher. We at Footwear Plus agree wholeheartedly. We look forward to showcasing many more in the issues and years to come.

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

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THIS JUST IN

FROZEN APPLE The fur was flying during a frigid New York Fashion Week as fashionistas battled the elements in style.

Photography by Melodie Jeng 10 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2015

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SCENE & HEARD

Footwear Cares: Bigger and Better THE NUMBERS RELATED companies and their employees to last year’s second annual involved. “Strengthening our Two Ten Foundation Footwear community—getting people Cares initiative, a national comback on their feet—has been a munity service program that core tenet since our founding 75 brings the industry together years ago,” says Neal Newman, through volunteerism, says it president of Two Ten. “The all: 6,500 industry members generous support of Amazon took part; 517,549 meals were Fashion enables us to involve sorted, packed, prepared thousands of employees from or served to feed children, footwear companies across the families, seniors and the country, all working together disabled; 11,300 new shoes to change the lives of families Two Ten’s Neal Newman packing peas during a were distributed to children; in need.” more than 20 environmental Footwear Cares event last year with Amazon and Topline “Amazon Fashion is proud representatives at Northwest Harvest in Kent, WA. projects were completed to to continue the support of enhance coastlines, nature the Two Ten Foundation and trails, community parks and recreation facilities; 1,242 the Footwear Cares initiative,” states Stan Friedlander, low-income children were provided clothing; and GMM of footwear for Amazon Fashion. “Last year, over 15,000 volunteer hours offset more than $330,000 100 companies joined together, spending thousands of in operational costs for non-profits. hours working to provide resources to 83 non-profit Two Ten is eager to top those figures as well as add organizations across the country. We are excited to make some new ones when it leads the industry in next a lasting impact on both a local and national level again.” month’s Footwear Cares effort. To help achieve that There’s still time to register for a Footwear Cares goal Amazon Fashion will return as the title sponsor activity. Contact Kaitlyn Butler (kbutler@twoten.org) and Two Ten is working hard on getting more footwear or log onto twoten.org/footwearcares for information.

FFANY Announces Joe Moore Scholarship THE FASHION FOOTWEAR Association of New York (FFANY) and Ars Sutoria School of footwear design in Milan, Italy, have created the Joseph C. Moore Footwear Scholarship in honor of the former long-time president and CEO of FFANY. The scholarship recognizes Moore’s long-time support of helping young footwear designers launch their careers and, specifically, aims to prepare the next generation of designers for the new challenges they face today. The scholarship is being offered to three design schools—Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), Parsons The New School for Design and Rhode Island School of Design—and will be awarded to the most worthy student graduating in the summer of 2015.

The winner will attend a 13-week shoe patternmaking and prototyping course (Aug. 26 – Nov. 20, 2015) at Ars Sutoria. Tuition, accommodations and round-trip airfare are all covered, for a total value of more than $17,000.

In addition, second and third place winners will be awarded an Ars Sutoria e-learning design course. The

plan going forward is to award the scholarship annually as well as open it to other design schools.

“It gives me great pride to see all the efforts in supporting the education of eager young people whose dream is to enter the shoe industry and make it their future,” says Moore. “My personal goal is to grow the base of this program and invite the industry to give its financial support so FFANY can develop this to match the demand.” Moore believes that would help put the scholarship program on the map and be a great industry asset for the future. “The footwear industry is just beginning to formalize ongoing educational support for more enthusiastic and talented people, helping facilitate their success in our beloved industry,” he adds.

The judging committee will be comprised of Moore, Robert Mingione, president of Roberto Vasi Footwear, Lisa Cronin-Arida, vice president of design and development at BCNY Intl./Synclaire Brands, and Wendy Sani, senior director of international course development at Ars Sutoria. For the final determination, Anna Bakst, president of shoes and accessories for Michael Kors, will join the selection committee. The winner will be honored during FFANY’s opening night party on June 2 at Brasserie 8½.•

Gravity Defyer Signs a King Wellness shoe brand Gravity Defyer has partnered with Bernice A. King, the youngest daughter of civil rights leaders Martin Luther King Jr. and Coretta Scott King, to host, sponsor and attend events to educate consumers about how the brand’s footwear, known for its VeroShock coils imbedded in the heel, can help them lead active, healthy lives.

King contacted the company when she realized her own Gravity Defyer shoes had significantly reduced her knee pain and offered to share her story. “Bernice is like many of our customers,” says Sarah Olea, spokesperson for the California-based brand. “Staying active and on her feet is a must, but the knee pain hindered her physical performance.”

“Together we can help change people’s lives in a positive way,” King says.

While there are no plans in place as of yet for King to assist in designing a signature Gravity Defyer shoe, she will highlight a few of her favorite styles on her personal website. “I love being a part of refreshing a person’s outlook on life,” King says.

12 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2015

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Service, Please:

Putting on the Ritz

The Ritz-Carlton hotel chain is legendary for its stellar service. Here, Ritz-Carlton Leadership Center VP Diana Oreck shares a simple plan for putting those fabled service principles to work in your store.

BY K AT H Y PA S S E RO

IN THE COMPETITIVE world of luxury lodging, Ritz-Carlton has distinguished itself by setting the gold standard for service.

The chain has become so renowned for exceptional service that seminars by the Ritz-Carlton Leadership Center, founded in 2000, draw attendees from a wide variety of industries, all eager to duplicate the five-star hotel chain’s award-winning business practices when it comes to customer service, employee engagement and leadership. It’s a formula that can translate into increased profitability and customer loyalty for retailers as effectively as it does for hotels, assures Diana Oreck, the center’s vice president.

“Whether you’re in the shoe industry or in hotels or a field like aviation, the same principles apply. We’re all consumers. We all know that when we’re receiving gorgeous service, it’s like poetry in motion. When we don’t, it’s something right out of Stephen King—a nightmare,” says Oreck, who traverses the globe teaching businesses how to provide dream service and avoid horror stories.

“But you can’t just say, ‘Okay, team, give legendary service,’” she explains.

“You have to give them a roadmap.” That’s where the Leadership Center comes

in, providing step-by-step directions on LIFE IN MOTION how to foster an excellent service culture that will boost sales and keep consumers What’s your go-to shoe? I coming back. spend about 90 percent of my Step one: Get employees and managers time traveling and I’m on my together to create a vision, a mission and feet teaching a lot, so I need a establish values that everybody in your shoe that’s practical but also organization can buy into and uphold. elegant. My go-to style is a flat The process won’t work if it comes down slip-on with tassels. from leadership as a mandate, Oreck warns. You need to get people on all What’s your favorite place to levels to participate, contribute ideas and shop? I love to write and I love shape the concepts. Ritz-Carlton did this pens. My very favorite brand is when the brand crafted its credo, motto, Levenger. In terms of clothes, employee promise, three service steps I fly more than 200,000 miles and much-heralded 12 service principles. a year, which means I’m in the (See sidebar, p. 16.) air so much that I don’t have Step two: Once you’ve crafted your a chance to get to stores very vision, mission and values—the “nonoften, so I buy online. My favornegotiables,” as Oreck calls them—comite clothing site is Chicos.com. municate them clearly and reinforce them regularly. Ritz-Carlton does this What are you reading? I read through a process called the daily line-up. all the time. Right now I’m At each of its 90 hotels and at corporate reading The House We Grew headquarters in Maryland, the entire Up In by Lisa Jewell. It’s set in staff meets for 10 to 15 minutes three England. I find it interesting times every day to underscore their valbecause I spent 8th through ues. “We choose one element from our 12th grade at a boarding school non-negotiables every day and do a deep in England. Before that I was dive on it,” Oreck explains. “Repetition born and raised in Mexico City. is our friend. We’re like Catholic nuns After England, I went to hotel when it comes to repetition because school in Switzerland, where that’s what delivers consistency. And they taught all our courses in the most important aspect of service French. is consistency in execution. It’s what sets us apart at Ritz-Carlton. You can’t What’s your motto? I like say you’re going to get great service drama, but only in the theater. from me on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays or when I’m feeling well. It has to be great service always. Consistency leads to trust and that leads to customer loyalty.”

What’s more, reiterating the brand’s core values helps employees to start living the vision and mission every day at work. Too often companies draft mission statements that amount to little more than impressive words on paper, Oreck says. Management only revisits the documents when the P&L goes south or when a customer complains. “You have to reinforce your values every single day,” says Oreck, “not once a month or once a quarter.”

To bring the daily lineups to life, Ritz-Carlton uses what Oreck terms storytelling—using real-life anecdotes and examples of great service that a particular team member has recently provided. Specifically, every Monday and Friday, the daily line-up includes a description of a recent random act of kindness by a staff member. For example, when a reservationist learned that a woman was booking a weekend at a Ritz-Carlton to celebrate having completed chemotherapy for breast cancer, she arranged for every person working in the hotel to wear a pink breast cancer awareness ribbon when the woman arrived and had a framed congratulations card, signed by every

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member of the staff, waiting in her room.

These “wow stories,” as Oreck calls them, serve two purposes. They reward staff members who’ve gone the extra mile by recognizing them publicly, and they resonate with listeners because they appeal on an emotional level.

“Storytelling is emotional transportation,” she says. “Stories stick with people.”

They also help to spark creative ideas in those who hear them, which makes the listeners more inclined to create their own unique, memorable and personal experiences—or “UMPs” as Oreck calls them—for customers.

“We are no longer living in a transactional economy,” Oreck says. “If people come to our hotels, they don’t want to feel like another head in the bed. If they’re at the bank, they don’t want to feel like another deposit or withdrawal.

And in retail, they don’t want to feel like just another purchase.”

Step three: Empower your staff to create UMPs. At Ritz-Carlton, every employee is allowed to spend up to $2,000 per guest to ensure that the guest gets exceptional service. The dollar amount is symbolic. “Nobody ever spends the money,” says Oreck. “But it’s a message to our staff that we select the best talent and we trust them. It’s hugely engaging for our employees. They stay longer. They understand their purpose. And the impact on customers is huge.

It’s how you get customers for life. Say you give away a pair of shoes because that’s what’s called for in a certain situation. The value of winning that one customer for life is far greater than the value of the shoes.”

Granted, location and product matter, “but the most powerful brands are

not about a product or a logo,” according to Oreck. “The key is the emotion they evoke in their customers. It’s all about making emotional connections.

“Managers often miss the opportunity to get their employees to live this idea,” she continues. “Sure, your employees’ function is to sell shoes. But their purpose is to ensure a sense of well-being, where people feel glamorous or wonderful or happy. The best leaders know how to inspire their employees to get out of bed, bring their passion to work and volunteer their best every day.”

Step four: Build the infrastructures to support a service excellence culture.

“You need to have systems behind the smiles,” says Oreck. “You have fantastic shoes, but does every customer get a warm greeting and a fond farewell in your store? Are your employees saying things like, ‘huh, wazzup or no worries’? Are you making sure the phone is always answered in three rings? Is your website slow, cumbersome or difficult to use?” If any of these are true, your system is not supporting your desire to be excellent in service, Oreck warns. If you’re not sure, audit your systems. For example, find out how many customers have looked at your website but decided not to buy. Figure out why—then fix the problem.

“Your processes, technology and staff all need to support service excellence at every touch point with your customer,” says Oreck. “People tend to overcomplicate and overanalyze service. But at the end of the day, it’s simple. You need to show common sense, common care and common courtesy. And your customer needs to be at the center of everything you do.” •

RITZ-CARLTON KEYS Here’s a look at the brand’s building blocks.

The Credo The Ritz-Carlton Hotel is a place where the genuine care and comfort of our guests is our highest mission.

We pledge to provide the finest personal service and facilities for our guests who will always enjoy a warm, relaxed, yet refined ambience.

The Ritz-Carlton experience enlivens the senses, instills well-being, and fulfills even the unexpressed wishes and needs of our guests.

Motto “We are Ladies and Gentlemen serving Ladies and Gentlemen.” This motto exemplifies the anticipatory service provided by all staff members.

Three Steps of Service 1. A warm and sincere greeting. Use the guest’s name.

2. Anticipation and fulfillment of each guest’s needs.

3. Fond farewell. Give a warm good-bye and use the guest’s name.

12 Service Values: I am Proud to be Ritz-Carlton 1. I build strong relationships and create RitzCarlton guests for life.

2. I am always responsive to the expressed and unexpressed wishes and needs of our guests.

3. I am empowered to create unique, memorable and personal experiences for our guests.

4. I understand my role in achieving the Key Success Factors, embracing Community Footprints and creating The Ritz-Carlton Mystique.

5. I continuously seek opportunities to inno-

vate and improve The Ritz-Carlton experience.

6. I own and immediately resolve guest problems.

7. I create a work environment of teamwork and lateral service so that the needs of our guests and each other are met.

8. I have the opportunity to continuously learn and grow.

9. I am involved in the planning of the work that affects me.

10. I am proud of my professional appearance, language and behavior.

11. I protect the privacy and security of our guests, my fellow employees and the company’s confidential information and assets.

12. I am responsible for uncompromising levels of cleanliness and creating a safe and accident-free environment.

The Employee Promise At The Ritz-Carlton, our Ladies and Gentlemen are the most important resource in our service commitment to our guests.

By applying the principles of trust, honesty, respect, integrity and commitment, we nurture and maximize talent to the benefit of each individual and the company. The RitzCarlton fosters a work environment where diversity is valued, quality of life is enhanced, individual aspirations are fulfilled and The Ritz-Carlton mystique is strengthened.

16 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2015

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Rave On Chris Gallagher, president and CEO of Vionic Group, on why the comfort brand’s market-disrupter premise is drawing rave reviews to the tune of double-digit sales gains.

CHRIS GALLAGHER DOESN’T like sitting in meetings. Specifically, the exec doesn’t like getting bogged down by corporate minutia that could slow down reaching the company’s 20/20 Vision goal, which is to cultivate “20 million raving fans by the year 2020.”

The term “raving fans” stems from the rave reviews Vionic so often receives from its rapidly growing customer base. The brand’s fans love the comfort and, more often than not, pain relief that Vionic’s built-in Orthaheel insole technology provides. “Many of the reviews are lifechanging,” Gallagher says. “That’s what drives us and gets us out of bed every morning—creating this life-changing footwear that helps millions of people.”

Vionic’s life-changing approach to design starts from the insole out—the opposite of most footwear. Specifically, its Orthaheel technology, created by renowned podiatrist Phillip Vasyli, zeros in on the biomechanics of walking. Through decades of treating patients, Vasyli discovered that the majority of the population over-pronates. When left unchecked, this can lead to a number of foot, leg and back pains, especially as people age and if they gain weight or are very active. “The more weight and force that is going through your body, the more impact there is on your feet,” Gallagher explains. “Our Orthaheel technology helps realign the body into its natural, or neutral, alignment, which helps give you a better walking stride—better biomechanics— and less wear and tear on your body.”

The premise works, judging from the brand’s positive feedback. But Gallagher, who spent the first 20 years of his career in shoe retailing, knows that even the greatest comfort technology will have limited appeal if the rest of the shoe lacks style. Vionic’s extensive consumer research affirms that. “It comes straight from their mouths. They want pretty shoes,” Gallagher reports. “They want shoes that are on trend, with nice materials and some bling. They don’t want their shoes to look boring; they don’t want traditional comfort shoes.”

Boring shoes are exactly what Gallagher saw in 2004 when he was introduced to Vasyli, as the company was then named. At the time, he was general manager of a 250-store chain of Australia-based family shoe stores (then owned

by Kinney Shoes). His initial reaction to Vasyli’s original styles: “So ugly.” But a buyer informed him that they were selling well in stores. In fact, consumers were asking for the shoes by name, which Gallagher says was rare back then. “They had a great technology and a great concept, but they didn’t know how to make shoes,” he says.

That’s when Gallagher decided to make the leap into wholesale. The timing was perfect. He had left high school at age 16 to start in the stockroom and spent 20 years steadily rising through the retail ranks without a break. He was now running a nearly $400-million store chain. But he needed a new challenge.

“It was a great experience, an amazing company with great people and we had a lot of fun,”

Gallagher reflects. “I learned all about marketing, sales and customer service. I felt like I went through a 15-year MBA program.”

Gallagher put his retail experience to work right away in his new wholesale venture, beginning with style upgrades. An early success was the brand’s Tide flip-flop (still a popular seller today) that clearly showed the insole technology in an appealing design. It wasn’t as “medi-

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www.gabor.de

Purveyors of luxury European comfort footwear

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O&A cal-looking” as the earlier versions, and it gave the brand momentum. Each time Vasyli introduced stylish shoes with the Orthaheel function, the business grew stronger. Then, in 2007, Gallagher and his four partners sold another one of its brand concepts to Dr. Scholl’s and used the capital to move to Marin County, California, to take on the U.S. market under the new brand name, Orthaheel. This was amended last year to Vionic with Orthaheel Technology.

Gallagher says the name is set. “It brings the focus down to one global brand that connects with the consumer on both a functional and emotional level,” he explains. “Vionic scored high with existing and potential consumers. It’s technical, easy to recognize, easy to pronounce and received well by women and men, so it’s a brand for both genders.” They decided to keep Orthaheel as a sub brand because of the equity the technology has built up with loyal consumers, Gallagher says. Plus, the name registers well with new consumers.

The company’s salad years have been marked by rapid growth, despite being smacked head-on by the Financial Crisis.

“All of a sudden it was like, ‘What the hell are we doing here in America?’”

Gallagher says of the dark days right What are you reading? The after the collapse. “But we persevered.”

Advantage and I’m re-reading He credits the survival largely to an Blue Ocean Strategy. Businesses unorthodox approach. For starters, that grow quickly tend to slow the company had invested its capidown and create a lot of meettal in inventory at a time when many ings. We are trying to figure out other brands were turning the taps off. how to expedite decisions.

“We had inventory in our warehouse, so customers didn’t have to pre-book,” What is inspiring you right he says. “I think we picked up a lot now? Personally, how my of market share in 2008 as a result.” mother has dealt with breast Another smart, unorthodox move: The cancer. And from a business company’s initial distribution stratperspective, Virgin Galactic. I egy focused on catalogs and online spent some time with Richard dealers. “They could tell our technical Branson recently at a conferstory better,” he explains. Key partners ence and he told me his vision is that helped the brand gain exposure to be able to fly from New York to a mass audience early on included to Sydney in three and a half QVC, Zappos and FootSmart’s catalog. hours. That sounds awesome.

Another positive outgrowth from this early distribution approach, Gallagher Is your mother ok? Yes, she got adds, was that it forced the brand to to it early, had a double mastecbasically be mapped price from the gettomy and was amazing through go. “We really needed to rein pricing in that whole process. She inspired quickly and everyone has pretty much me to start our foundation, had a level playing field since,” he says.

Vionic Supports, to give back to This past year Vionic’s sales grew people in our communities.

20 percent, despite a soft retail climate and a new brand name. Vionic is What is your motto? “Trying is now available in all doors at Dillard’s just a noisy way of doing nothand in Belk, on Nordstrom.com and ing.” It’s a bit harsh, but if you in thousands of independent stores. want to move forward, you have “It’s been a fun and enjoyable ride,” to focus on what’s important Gallagher says. “I don’t think we’ve and get traction. missed too many deliveries over the past five years. We’ve got a very agile and innovative team that is always looking at how we can improve.” To that end, Gallagher believes it’s only the start of reaching Vionic’s full potential. He says the healthy shoe concept and athleisure trends bode well for the brand going forward. Vionic’s ultimate motivation factor? Offering relief to millions of consumers who resign themselves

to foot pain because they think it’s an inevitable part of aging. “It’s not only about styles, comfort and revenue—that’s just a byproduct of our product,” Gallagher says. “The bigger we get, the more people we help.”

Is Vionic comfort, wellness, medical or all of the above?

I get a lot of my data from how others perceive us. Many of our raving fans and retail partners tell us that Vionic is leading the way with technology that can really help relive pain and combines that with style. In our opinion, we are re-defining comfort footwear.

Many comfort brands make similar claims, but it’s not always the case.

It isn’t. I think it’s hard when you are a large traditional comfort brand and have been in the market for a long time to move away from that core look. For starters, it probably represents a large part of your business. But the problem is you can end up with everything looking pretty much the same. That’s why we believe this market could use some freshness.

What sound do you love? I love the sound of waves crashHow do you think Vionic stands out? ing on the beach.

It’s easy in spring and summer because the shoes are mostly open and our If you could hire anybody, who Orthaheel insole technology stands would it be? George Clooney. out. It’s unique. We have been movEvery woman loves him, so I ing more into closed styles the past would love to have him on the few fall seasons, which our consumers team for marketing purposes. have been asking for, and have developed some styles that have been well What might people be surreceived. Our retailers report that the prised to know about you? I repeat purchase on Vionic is extremely started working in a shoe store high. And customers aren’t buying just full time at age 16. Most of my one style, either. We are not just selleducation has been on the job. ing running shoes, for example. The But I earned an MBA in my technology is available in flip-flops, early thirties to figure out how I running shoes, walking shoes, boots, did it (laughs). casuals—customers shop us for their entire wardrobe.

If God put you in charge, what would be your first decree? A What exactly are your customers pain-free world. raving about?

Putting an orthotic inside a shoe is What is your favorite homenot new. But putting one in a shoe town memory? I’m from that looks great is what they are ravBrisbane, Australia, and it’s ing about. They can now feel normal. a recent one of celebrating When they go out with friends they Christmas with my family. I don’t have to wear big, clunky shoes. hadn’t been back home in eight And it’s built-in. They don’t have to years and with what my mom make an additional purchase. had just been through it was great to spend time with her, Who is the Vionic consumer? my brothers, sisters, nieces and We have our core consumer who nephews. has either experienced or is experiencing some type of foot, lower leg, knee or back pain. They often find us through research they did themselves, their doctor’s recommendation or a friend. They are generally north of age 40 and need our product. They are also the ones who are most likely raving about our brand. Along those lines, there are two things that generally motivate people: pleasure and

OFF THE CUFF

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trulie comfortable.

[ T r uli e ]

St and Up an d Ge t C omfor tab l e ! ™

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O&A pain. If you are suffering from a headache, you take a pill and the pain goes away. That’s similar to what our product does. And then there’s the secondary customer base, which I believe represents a bigger opportunity: people who seek superior support in their footwear as well as style. That’s men and women of all age groups.

Just how big of a customer base are we looking at potentially?

That’s one of the questions I’m asking myself now: How can we be a niche brand if we are a top four brand in most of our retailers? So we are about to embark on a comprehensive brand study to dig deep into what that real market opportunity is. People might be surprised that we are already over $100 million in annual sales. We’ve overcome a lot of hurdles and the challenge now is where do we go from here?

So Vionic is not a niche brand?

It’s not, even though most people think of biomechanical footwear as a niche market. And it is, currently, a small part of the footwear industry. Of the total footwear sold in America, the percentage with an orthotic built inside is probably less than 2 percent. That’s why I think there’s huge opportunity for Vionic and our retailers to educate many more consumers that there’s an alternative. Many people put up with pain, thinking it’s normal. I’m getting old, my knee is creaky, my feet are sore…So they buy soft, spongy “comfort shoes.” But that doesn’t necessarily address the biomechanical issues causing the pain. We address the cause rather than just the symptoms.

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Where are we at in terms of consumers making that leap of understanding?

It’s our job to educate consumers. It’s why, for example, we offer a 30-day comfort guarantee. Anyone who buys our product from any of our retailers can try it for 30 days wearing it anywhere and, if they don’t like it for any reason whatsoever, they can take it back for a full refund. Having grown up in retail, I know most return policies stipulate that the shoes must only be worn on a carpet or definitely not outside. But you can wear ours on a trip to Europe for a month and, if you aren’t satisfied, we’ll give you your money back. Ever since Phil was a podiatrist, he offered the same service to his patients. It’s a culture within our company. We believe in our product.

And… We get less than 1 percent returned. We don’t want people to be unhappy.

We’d rather give them their money back and thank them for trying. But with less than 1 percent return, it’s a great opportunity for retailers to get their customers into a brand with no risk.

How critical has your retail experience been in Vionic’s growth to date?

It allows me to see the business from a retailer’s perspective. I understand retail dynamics and financials. We don’t offer propositions that aren’t going to work because if they are not profitable or healthy, then we will not be either.

It has to be a true partnership. It’s also a part of the Australian culture to go deep. Meaning, once we are in business together, we are in it to win together.

And that stems from the fact that Australia has a population of only 24 mil-

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lion people—there are more people in California. So it’s a relatively small market and you have to have a really good product and partnerships to be able to succeed over the long term.

Any of your retailing tenets that still ring true today?

Vision and strategy, for any business, is key. And I find the 7 Ps of retail (People, Product, Price, Promotion, Process, Positioning and Place) to still be very relevant. You create a strategy around those points in order to improve customer experience. I know the buzzword now is omnichannel, but that’s really about creating a seamless way for the consumer to access the brand across multiple touch points. Unless you get all 7 Ps right, it doesn’t matter. You can have the best distribution in the world, but if you don’t get those other ducks in a row or if you start chopping off in any of those areas, the business will deteriorate. But if you can get all seven of them right, then you can have a great business.

Did you learn this on the floor or in your MBA program?

Both, actually. The good thing about practical experience is that it’s practical. From trial-and-error you learn theory on what works and then you can teach others how to do it. Knowledge is power, of course, but it’s even more powerful if you can actually share that knowledge with the people that can help your business grow.

What is your take on the retail market right now? Are we in the midst of a massive revolution where traditional stores may soon become relics?

Personally, I love to shop, so I would hate to see the demise of stores. I love to feel the fabrics, look at shoes…It’s magic when a store does it really well and it all comes together. I get a real buzz out of that. It’s why I think that aspect of retail will remain relevant, because people like to touch and feel the product. I understand that a lot of brick-and-mortar retailers have been focused on what they have been losing to online dealers, but in the reverse of that there are also plenty of consumers who go online to do research and then go into a store to shop. The challenge for those retailers, outside of service, is range and selection. If they had access to allow customers to buy anything from a particular brand they are carrying and could be delivered later presents another opportunity for them. We’ve been listening to the retailers on our advisory board on this matter and we’ll soon be introducing an idea that should help address some of those issues. And while businesses like Amazon offer next-day and even same-day delivery, I see the traditional retailer as immediate delivery. One of the aspects I was always focused on as a retailer was knowing my customer better than my competitors so I could deliver the product that they wanted and needed right then.

Where do you see the traditional shoe store in five or 10 years?

Who knows what it’s going to look like in 20 years, but I don’t think it’s going to go away in at least the next five years. One aspect that I wish for is, no matter where you buy Vionic, you could take it back to any of our retailers and they will fulfill exchanges similar to the way car companies do with recalls and repairs. Everybody should put the needs of the customer first.

Granted, it’s a very difficult proposition to align inventories and service.

But think about the basic mentality: delivering what’s best for consumers.

Everybody wins when you do that. You are building the brand and you are adding a service element, so you become something different. I don’t think there’s anything in retail like that now with the exception of vertical retailers like department stores. They are taking advantage of the omnichannel aspect because you can buy a pair of shoes online from Dillard’s and if they don’t fit you can take them to your local store to exchange them.

Where do you see Vionic in, say, three years?

I foresee us fulfilling our journey of creating 20 million raving fans. The challenge to achieving that is distribution. What is the right distribution to help us get there? And, obviously, it’s also product, sourcing and company culture. We want to be one of the most agile and innovative comfort footwear companies. We need to act like a $100-million start-up. >67

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PLUS AWA R D S

Winner’s Circle The 16th Annual Plus Awards ceremony, held at the New York Hilton and co-sponsored

by FFANY and OrthoLite, recognized design and retail excellence for 2014.

Lifetime Achievement

Company of the Year

Brand of the Year; Surf

Cowboy Boots

Women’s Collection

Customer Service

Best Kicks Collab

Running

Peter Hanig Owner Hanig’s Shoes

Rick Graham Senior VP of Sales Skechers

President Kevin Bailey; Designer Matt Nosbusch; Mark Haskins, VP of Global Product Design Footwear and Equipment, Vans

Randy Watson CEO Justin Brands

Jesse Edelman National Sales Manager Sam Edelman

CEO Larry Schwartz; President Evan Schwartz Aetrex Worldwide

Rhett Richardson Brand Director and Designer Concepts

Rich Lawrence Sales Manager Asics

Outdoor

Men’s Comfort

Online

Bertrand Racine, Bob Mulvaney Jeff Espersen Senior Design Manager President Americas General Manager of Footwear; VP of Global The Rockport Company Zappos Footwear Brian Moore The North Face

Women’s Comfort

Work Boots

Men’s Collection

Sit & Fits

David Kahan CEO Birkenstock USA

Mike Roundhouse, Director of Product Development; CEO David Sharp; Designer/Developer Steven Nelson Rocky Brands

Todd Yates Brand President Wolverine 1000 Mile

President Mark Jubelirer; Vice President Steven Jubelirer Reyers Shoe Store

Innovations in Comfort Presented by OrthoLite

Suit & Tie

Boots

Customer Service

Children’s

Outdoor Style

Best Collab

Pamela Gelsomini, President of OrthoLite; Glen Arentowicz VP of Men’s Product Clarks

Andrew Dubin CMO; Neal Callahan Men’s Design Director Cole Haan

Kristen Scaravaglione Media Director Ugg Australia

Robert Goldberg Owner Harry’s Shoes

Designer Jeremy Yoon; Director of Design Naly Lee; VP of Product Design and Development Tony Castano Jambu

Chandni Patel Media Director Sorel

Donnie Brooks VP of Product Keds x Taylor Swift

24 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2015

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Thank you Retailers and Footwear Plus for honoring us with a 2014 Plus Award.

THE BE ST IS Y ET TO CO M E !

BUSA_FWPlus_Ad_March FOP_Mar2015.indd 35 2015_FINAL.indd 1

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PLUS AWA R D S

Party People An estimated 400 footwear industry members braved the snow and cold to celebrate the 16th annual Plus Awards, recognizing design and retail excellence across 27 distinguished categories, as part of the FFANY show’s opening night cocktail party.

Photography by Melodie Jeng

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FOP_Mar2015.indd 41 ad_9x10.875_mech.indd 1 ECCO 15-38 Footwear Plus

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PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

Lifetime Achievement

For more than 40 years Peter Hanig, owner of Hanig’s Footwear in Chicago, has made retailing an art form, and he wouldn’t have done it any other way. By Greg Dutter

The Artist

Father and son dynamic shoe retailing duo: Peter and Daniel Hanig

PETER HANIG IS a photographer, a glass blower, a self-taught student of architecture and a social activist, to cite but a few of this dynamic man’s qualities. During the ’60s, he marched on Selma and Washington for civil rights and anti-war demonstrations, respectively. He has been a long-time proponent of affordable housing for residents of his native Chicago, serving on community action boards that help provide zero-interest loans to nonprofit homebuilders. Hanig has also served on boards in support of the local business community, helping independent merchants thrive. Most notably, he spearheaded the committee for “Cows on Parade,” a public art exhibit in 1998 that placed 330 life-sized cow sculptures throughout Chicago. The exhibit brought in an estimated $250 million in tourist dollars and raised, through auction of the works, $3.5 million for various charities.

“I’m a strong believer in public art,” says the man who also purchased a 400-pound castiron foot sculpture to showcase in front of his Michigan Avenue location. He had to convince the owners of the John Hancock building to display it in the garden out front. Hanig knew it would be a sidewalk stopper—step one of being a successful brick-and-mortar retailer.

Plus, he adds, “I like goofy things.”

Hanig is a self-described “odd sort of capitalist.” He’s a dyed-in-the-wool merchant on one hand and a lifelong activist for social justice on the other. That’s Hanig in a nutshell: right and left principles rolled into an artsy yet businessminded and methodical composite that includes an “out in left field” sense of humor. It makes Hanig hard to peg. He’s a conundrum wrapped in an enigma, as they say. Perhaps that’s why trying to pinpoint what Hanig is known best for is equally difficult. He’s been a Chicago-based shoe retailer for 44 years, but the stores he operates defy easy categorization. Some would call the three Hanig’s Footwear stores old-school sit-and-fits. (Hanig’s most certainly provides

that service to every one of its customers, and the owner is a firm believer that that’s where the relationship starts.) Others say Hanig’s stores are Euro comfort destinations. (That, too, is an accurate description, as the chain is known for carrying many European comfort brands, including Ecco, Mephisto, Arche and Thierry Rabotin—brands the retailer helped introduce to American consumers.) But the stores are more than this. Hanig calls them eclectic. “I think being eclectic rather than a certain format is innovative,” he says. “I want to have an interesting business.”

That retailing trait has been a hallmark of the Hanig family since Peter’s father, Irv, opened the first store in 1944. In 1966, for example, Hanig’s received an AIA (American Institute of Architects) award for the interior store design of its Nunn Bush store, which was based on the works of renowned Spanish architect Antoni Gaudí. The store was sculpted in plaster to resemble a carved-out cave. “It was very cool,” Hanig says, noting Hugh Hefner was a customer and liked the store so much that he hired the architect. “It was like a grotto.”

Talking Points In addition to conversation-piece interior designs, Hanig credits his unique product assortment for piquing shoppers’ interest. “I buy what I like and what I think is interesting to the customer,” he explains. “I want our customers to be interested in what we are doing. I don’t want them to see it on every corner.”

Take Vibram FiveFingers, for example. Hanig’s is in no way considered an athletic store, but Hanig himself was one of the first to jump on the unique-looking barefoot running shoe concept. He bought the shoes at first sight while shopping an Outdoor Retailer show. “I didn’t buy them for the function (although he has run in the shoes for years) or because I thought they would be a fad,” he says. “I bought them because I knew the shoes would stop people

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Roosevelt University in Chicago on the street.” Hanig displayed to earn a master’s degree. The them in his store windows and plan was to attend classes at that’s exactly what happened. night while working in one of his “It was a phenomenal fad for a father’s stores by day. About six period of time,” he says. months in, however, he decided Tony Post, CEO and founder of scholarly life wasn’t for him. It Topo Athletic and previously CEO just so happened that at the of Vibram FiveFingers, credits time (1971), the family business Hanig’s success to a unique blend was thriving and expanding. So of retailing elements: “He has Hanig had another idea: “I said thrived because he mixes great to my dad, ‘Let me try it for two premium products, established years.’” That was 44 years ago classics and newer, harder-toInside Hanig’s, where interesting and ecelectic merchandise takes center stage. and Hanig is still trying his hand find items with a high-quality successfully at shoe retailing. service experience.”

So what convinced Hanig to make shoe retailing A Labor of (Not Always) Love “Peter’s stores are statements,” says Matt Thibeau, a lifelong career? There’s no specific reason, but the Hanig grew up working summers in his father’s shoe territory manager for Ecco. “Providing an out-ofdaily variety of tasks and challenges, the dynamic stores, but he never had any intention of making it the-ordinary shopping experience is important nature of the business and the ability to be creative a career. It was a “family business,” he says, and with to him. His interiors are striking and inviting, on many levels were most definitely factors. Of that came the stress and difficulties often associated and the fixtures are out of the box.” Thibeau adds course, Hanig’s love of the product was another with such operations. “I have three brothers—all that this extends to his sales staffs, which are driving force. But perhaps the most important three worked in the business at one time and left. I well-educated on product features and benefits element keeping Hanig in the business is the longthink that tells you something.” Specifically, he says, and have mostly been with him for years. “The lasting relationships he has made over the decades their father was tough and demanding. service ethic is superior, his clientele is loyal and, with wholesalers, employees, retail colleagues and Hanig’s brothers went far afield, professionally for most, shopping in a Hanig’s store is a singular customers. Peter’s son, Daniel, joined the family and geographically. But Peter, the third-youngest, experience,” Thibeau adds. business a few years ago, and at a recent Chicago somehow stayed, although he too originally planned Of late that experience has involved a fashion Collective show he found himself doing business with to teach high school English. (He and his wife push to make Hanig’s merchandise mix even more the grandson of one of his dad’s original contacts, a earned teaching degrees while attending Shimer interesting and eclectic. “It is our belief that every man Peter still does business with. “It’s reaffirming College, where they met.) Hanig briefly entertained shoe should be comfortable,” Hanig explains, “but to see people who have stayed in the business >63 thoughts of becoming a scholar, having enrolled in that’s not the reason the customer picked up the shoe. They picked it up because they thought it was interesting.” Hanig says his approach to buying stems from his love of art and architecture. Specifically, TIPS OF THE TRADE the fact that shoes are the result of similar creative After 44 years, Peter Hanig has learned a thing or two about processes. “Shoes are a form of architecture and what it takes to survive in this business. craftsmanship—somebody has to think this stuff up,” he says. “Why did they think it that way, how Be Afraid—in a Good Way: The best advice Be Open to New Ideas: That doesn’t mean you did they make it, what’s it made out of, what are take every idea that’s in front of you, but you have I ever got from my father about being a the features and benefits, what’s their niche?” Not retailer was to “run scared.” My father was to be willing to explore ideas—both old and new. surprisingly, Hanig shops a shoe show like he’s dynamic, but also fearful of failure. He had For example, we’re still sit-and-fit stores. That’s walking through an art exhibit. Thus, he says, it’s come out of the Great Depression and his an old idea, but I believe in it because it starts not really work, nor should it be. “I believe you father had lost his business. He knew there relationships with customers. At the same time, should get delight out of what you are doing, and I were no guarantees. If you don’t continually we are attempting to be savvier about technolget a lot of delight from the shoe business,” he says. ogy, which is about being open to new ideas. And evaluate what you are doing and seek to “I enjoy learning the different design aspects and change, your business will go away. If you we are always open to new brands and concepts.

I enjoy trying to understand why they are doing are not on the lookout for new products Just because a line was your biggest for 10 years what they are doing. It’s a lot of fun.” and ideas, eventually it catches up to you. doesn’t mean that another one can’t become Hanig credits his parents with fostering an interToday, it catches up to you even faster. your biggest in two years. est in the arts in him early on. His mother was a There aren’t any easy solutions, so you talented graphic artist (for years she drew the shoe have to be innovative and more financially Be Wary of Too Much Tech: A lot of technology sketches featured in the stores’ ads) and his father aware than ever before. I’m not working as can be a distraction—people are getting run over even took a break from retailing to design and many hours as I used to, but I’m working because they were staring at their smartphones. manufacture his own collection of high-end men’s harder than ever. It’s hard to be in business Quite honestly, the same thing can happen in dress shoes out of Israel in the early ’70s. “My dad today. Expenses are rising, but business your store. If you have too much going on you loved different kinds of shoe constructions,” Hanig not as much. Fortunately, our business are not going to connect with the customer as says. “He taught me about the Bologna construclooks as though it’s growing again, but it’s well. That’s why I’ve always been more producttion and different stitching techniques, and it a tough environment and the competition oriented. I’ve always believed that the customer stayed with me. I’m interested in that mix of art is intense. comes in for the shoes, not the TV. and engineering. I enjoy it.”

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PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

THE PLUS AWARDS Recognizing Excellence in Design and Retail for 2014

COMPANY OF THE YEAR

BRAND OF THE YEAR, SURF

SKECHERS

VANS

»

IN LIGHT OF the superlative year Skechers had in 2014, perhaps its new tagline should simply be GOwin. From record-breaking sales and accelerated product innovations (driven by GOrun, GOwalk and Relaxed Fit collections) to high-profile marketing initiatives, the company fired on all cylinders.

Skechers’ annual sales hit $2.4 billion in 2014 (beating Wall Street expectations of $2.35 billion) and marked a 29 percent increase over 2013. “Skechers sales in 2014 were incredible,” says Michael Greenberg, president. “We achieved four consecutive record-breaking quarters, with the third quarter being our highest quarter revenue ever. This resulted in our highest annual net revenues in the company’s 22-year Chairman and CEO Robert Greenberg history.” Greenberg notes that the sales growth was the result of double-digit gains in domestic and international wholesale businesses as well as its retail stores that now number 1,000 doors worldwide.

“We attribute this success to the high demand for our footwear from consumers, our impactful marketing and the great partnerships we have with accounts in the United States and around the world,” he says.

From a product perspective, Skechers’ broad appeal and diverse offerings helped fuel the growth. “In the United States, where domestic wholesale business increased by 24 percent, we achieved double-digit increases in our key lines, including men’s and women’s Skechers USA, Skechers Sport and Skechers GO, among others,” reports Robert Greenberg, chairman and CEO. “This growth is representative of what is happening around the world as we are seeing our product universally accepted. Every product line has not just a success story, but multiple ones—from our lightweight sport footwear for men, women and kids, to Skechers GOwalk and our Relaxed Fit collection.” In addition, the CEO cites the Stretch Weave collection of woven uppers and the colorful Skech-Air lightweight running shoes for kids as being strong sellers. “Skechers GOwalk has been an in-demand collection with shoppers buying multiple colors; it really is the perfect walking shoe,” he says, noting that Skechers is now the No. 2 recognized footwear brand and the No. 1 walking brand in America. “Relatively speaking, we’re still a newcomer in the performance running world, but after Meb [Keflezighi] achieved numerous milestones—including his win at the Boston Marathon—competing in our Skechers GOrun line, we’ve become a serious player in that arena,” he says.

Key inspirations in the design process continue to be global in nature as ideas are coming from everywhere, the CEO explains. “I watch people’s feet everywhere I go. I watch what they are wearing and how they are wearing it,” he offers. “And I see the world looking more and more the same in terms of footwear. There might be color differences and seasonality, but on the whole, there is synchronicity.

What’s popular in the U.S. is working in the U.K., the U.A.E. and China.” As such, he says it allows Skechers to take inspiration from colors, fabrics and style in all walks of life and have it resonate with consumers around the globe. “The world is our Picasso,” Greenberg says.

Indeed, 2014 was a very good year for Skechers. “We have never been so stylish, so comfortable and so innovative across all our divisions,” Robert Greenberg affirms. —Judy Leand

THE VANS CLASSIC slip-on was arguably the silhouette of 2014. It was on the runway as well as on celebrities, hipsters, fashionistas, surfers, skateboarders, teenagers and many people decades older who grew up wearing the now iconic silhouette from the brand that helped introduce America and the world to Southern California fashion and lifestyle beginning in 1966. The once counter culture brand, now approaching its 50th anniversary, has reached mainstream appeal while still retaining its youthful alternative edge.

Vans’ sales numbers are solid proof of this broader appeal: 19 straight quarters of double-digit gains and 2014 annual sales up 17 percent and surpassing the $2 billion mark—becoming parent company VF Corp.’s second brand to reach that milestone. (The North Face is the other.) There are simply not enough male teenage skateboarders to account for such enormous growth.

When one looks at the product behind the big numbers, a few categories stood out in 2014, according to Dave Solomon, vice president of footwear. He cites the MTE line, the Classic Lites collection and a series of limited-edition collabs—most notably Star Wars and The Beatles—as being design highlights for the year. “Vans MTE product is bringing us closer to becoming a fourseason brand and a resource for our customers and consumers,” he notes. Designed to provide protection in wet and cool conditions, MTE features include rugged uppers, fleece linings and a thermal heat retention layer as part of the insole. Solomon adds that the Classic Lites collection, consisting of its Classic uppers on UltraCush bottom units, offer improved fit, increased comfort and reduced weight.

The product innovation is proof Vans isn’t just resting on the laurels of its classic styles, which can ride waves of popularity that come and go. For the brand to remain relevant with consumers, Vans President Kevin Bailey has been steadfast in making sure it continually adapts and evolves to meet their changing wants and needs. Part of that involves not only trying to be the best action sports brand in the world, but to be an iconic brand representing creative expression and youth culture across art, music and street genres. That represents an enormous market opportunity worldwide, and it all starts with making cool products. “Innovation comes in many different forms, from helping the best skateboarders in the world perform, to delighting our consumers with products that help them express themselves creatively, to our approach of driving trends through design from the top of our distribution model all the way down,” Solomon says. “It’s a necessity that we approach innovation through the lens of our brand for it to be authentic and resonate with our consumers, and it’s what keeps us unique in the market.” —J.L.

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PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE WHOLESALE CUSTOMER SERVICE

AETREX WORLDWIDE

RUNNING

ASICS ASICS SET A blistering pace in the performance running category as global revenues hit $2.96 billion in fiscal year 2014 and annual sales in the Americas region rose 26 percent, approaching the $1 billion mark. A good portion of that growth is in the running footwear segment and Yoshiyasu Ando, senior global designer of performance running footwear, attributes the success to an emphasis on listening to runners and meeting their footwear demands. In particular, the introduction of the third generation of the Natural33 collection last spring and the update of the perennial favorite GelKayano 21 in the fall underscored the brand’s commitment to serving its loyal customers.

“Asics is an inexhaustible supporter for runners and their performance, with a brand ethos to pursue continuous improvement and optimize performance at every moment,” Ando says. He cites the Gel-Kayano 21, in particular, as an example of the brand’s innovative new research and design methodologies that used computer simulation to provide valuable insights into how to improve the fit through the heel and, in turn, how that impacts the foot in its entirety. “The result is not only a more comfortable and secure fit, but an overall improvement to the feel and stability of the upper design,” he says, adding that style also featured the introduction of its FluidRide midsole that provides 20 percent more bounceback while also reducing weight.

The Natural33 collection was another design breakthrough in 2014 as Asics achieved significant weight reduction (more than 1.5 ounces in some cases) while continuing to elevate performance. “The uppers were built upon a new ergonomically shaped Natural33 last and featured modern seamless materials and engineered meshes,” Ando says.

Another notable design principle for Asics last year was the concept of Cubism and geometric architecture. “The concept went hand-in-hand with our scientific approach of building performance footwear, creating detailed and technical designs that marry form and function into a new vision of modern construction,” Ando explains. “This reconstruction of simple geometrical shapes created a fresh look and feel within our performance footwear.”

Of course, the proof is whether the product delivered on its performance promises. “Asics can talk all day long about technology and our exhaustive research, but ultimately what really matters to athletes is what happens after they put the shoes on their feet,” Ando offers. “The experience of our performance technologies, the comfortable fit and feel and the smooth transition in the ride of the shoes resonated with runners.” —J.L.

“IT’S ALL ABOUT supporting the independent retailer,” says Evan Schwartz, president of Aetrex Worldwide. With an attitude like that it’s not hard to see why the Teaneck, NJ-based company received the nod for excellence in wholesale customer service. From its strict Internet sales and MAP policies (Aetrex doesn’t sell its primary products to e-commerce-only dealers and consumers won’t find its Lynco orthotics online at a lower price.) to its in-store iStep foot-scanning systems to the launch in 2014 of a mobile app generator that enables all iStep retail partners to have a customizable app presence for free, Aetrex is willing and able to equip its brick-and-mortar retail partners with whatever tools they need in the everchanging business world.

Specific to the app, customers can shop a store online, find the nearest physical location, receive coupons and stay connected through social media.

Customers can also receive personalized alerts when they are in the vicinity of a store and can retrieve past foot scans in order to make the right sized purchases. The technology is expensive and not easy, but CEO Larry Schwartz believes it’s well worth the effort. Because the alternative—that many of these retail-

ers become outmoded—would be bad for Aetrex. Offering such a level of service, he says, is “part of how we see our role in the industry.”

Retailers, in turn, continue to benefit from the partnership as Evan Schwartz says that business is booming. “2014 was one of our strongest years in a variety of areas,” he reports, noting that footwear sales were up in spring and fall and prebooks for Spring ’15 were “the best we ever had.” “Staying focused on our message and product really helped us grow last year,” he says, citing the company continuing to step up its style game as a big reason for the sales surge.

Not to mention Aetrex’s ability to ship orders faster than ever before.

“We get 50 percent of our orders out on the same day, 40 percent within 24 hours and the balance within 48 hours,” Schwartz maintains. “We’ve put a lot of technology in place and we ship from both the east and west coasts from 7:30 a.m. through to 2:30 a.m. every day to ensure that this happens.” Schwartz adds, “We’re very fortunate that our customer service team has a customer-first attitude and works in sync with our sales team and upper management to help each account grow.”

—Lynsday McGregor

Aetrex’s flagship store in New Jersey’s Willowbrook features cutting-edge customer service technologies.

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WORK BOOTS

ROCKY YOU WOULDN’T USE a spade to finish drywall.

That’s the message behind Rocky’s Elements collection of work boots that launched in 2014 and, according to Director of Product Development Mike Roundhouse, likely the reason why the brand grabbed the Plus Award for Design Excellence in the Work Boots category. “We think of work boots as another one of the tradesman’s tools,” Roundhouse quips, adding that the Elements collection “really resonated with our end users.”

Focusing on four specific areas of work—Dirt, Block, Wood and Steel—each grouping is built to suit the individual needs of that job: the Dirt offering focuses on waterproof constructions; Block boots feature a chemical- and abrasion-resistant vamp;

WOMEN’S COMFORT

BIRKENSTOCK BIRKENSTOCK HAS BEEN sold in the United States since 1966 and the German comfort brand (founded in 1774) has experienced waves of popularity cycles, be it with hippies, Deadheads, granola-crunching eco activists, comfort purists, Silicon Valley tech gurus and Volvo-driving yuppies.

But in the past couple of seasons a new consumer demographic emerged: Fashionistas.

Birkenstocks have become undeniably cool and are the sartorial footwear choice among trend-setting celebrities and style mavens. What gives? Experts point to designers such as Celine’s Phoebe Philo and Giambattista Valli, who put their own spin on the brand’s classic cork footbed silhouettes and featured them in their Spring ’14 runway shows. Others cite the ongoing popularity of heritage brands as consumers increasingly seek authenticity in all their purchases. Then there’s the oft-discussed Normcore movement that embraces a comfort aesthetic that jibes well with Birkenstock. Add it all together and it’s no wonder the brand’s U.S. sales were through the roof in 2014, reports David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock USA.

Wood styles are designed with a medial cushion for kicking boards into place and a puncture-resistant plate; and a high-heat outsole and flame-resistant stitching and laces offer extra protection to welders wearing Steel boots.

The Dirt boots, in particular, stood out at retail.

“Four of the five top-selling new styles for fall were from the Dirt collection,” Roundhouse shares, adding that it appealed to the masses because of its 5-mm lug depth outsole and padding around the ankle bone “for guys who bend and squat a lot on the job.” Roundhouse adds, “We worry about the comfort of our guys.”

Another introduction last year was the Rocky EnergyBed footbed, available as an insert as well as a standard feature in the Elements collection. “We know these guys are on their feet a lot. Building a correct sole is one thing, but the footbeds touch their feet all day,” Roundhouse notes. The Energy Bed has a 3-mm top layer of memory foam “for that instant wow that forms to the shape of his foot,” a moisture-wicking lining and 40-density polyurethane to absorb shock.

Elsewhere, staples like the IronClad collection continue to sell well and Roundhouse reveals Rocky plans to develop new welted product this year, as well as expand its offering. “We’re always trying to evaluate the market and see where we could expand our niche and grow even bigger,” he says. “When construction workers hear Rocky, they think waterproof.

Now they’ll also think comfort.” —L.M.

Its original footbed sandal was one if not the fashion silhouette, of 2014.

“Last year was a breakthrough year for Birkenstock,” Kahan reports, noting the Arizona two-strap sandal and the Gizeh thong in metallic as best sellers.

“The all-white and all-black Arizonas were so hot, they were virtually sold out early in the season.”

The iconic styles could be found on the likes of street style icons and celebrities alike, paired with everything from yoga pants to couture dresses.

This past fall the brand introduced updates to make the iconic styles even easier to wear without straying from their design DNA. Gleaning inspiration from ready-to-wear collections, Birkenstock’s designers outfitted the classic shapes in colors and materials that coordinated with what was trending in the apparel market. Think metallic details and patent leather. Kahan adds that it’s not just the shoes’ ability to complete a look or even its style versatility that has fueled the brand’s astronomical success last year. He also attributes the popularity to the authenticity of the brand’s message. “You can’t fake a 240-year history or the comfort and orthopedic benefits of our footbed,” he says. “At a time when consumers are craving authenticity and comfort, Birkenstock is the leading example of it in footwear.”

—Tara Anne Dalbow

SUIT & TIE

COLE HAAN

IT WAS A case of history repeating itself at Cole Haan in 2014. Not only was the nearly 90-year-old brand two for two in the Suit & Tie category, it dipped into its extensive archives for design motivation, too. “As a classic shoe company born in 1928, we decided to look back into our history for inspiration first and found a wealth of classics that could be re-interpreted for modern use,” shares Andrew Dubin, chief merchandising officer, noting that the focus on heritage fused with innovative technology saw Cole Haan’s men’s footwear sales steadily swell last year.

While the brand found success with its perennially popular Grant Drivers and the newly launched Cambridge dress collection, the big story in 2014 was last July’s debut of ZeroGrand, a collection of classics infused with Cole Haan’s proprietary Grand OS technology. Touted as its “lightest and most flexible” shoes ever, ZeroGrand shoes weigh in at only 290 grams each and every design detail features carefully considered components to offer greater flexibility and increased cushioning. For instance, the Wing Oxford is made using a Strobel stitch construction for greater flexibility. “Men wear them sock-less with suits for a trendsetting style that’s as appropriate for the boardroom as it is for a night out,” Dubin says.

To that end, he adds, “We’re finding that our customers are less attracted to one-off fashion items, but instead seek classics that are made modern through innovative engineering and attention to craft.” For example, the Pinch Grand Penny, another 2014 bestseller, marries hand-sewn craftsmanship in hand-finished nubuck, suede or brush-off leather with a Grand OS construction, replacing traditional steel shanks with lightweight molded ones. “Shoes that feature Grand OS represent the highest standard of shoemaking craft coupled with shoes that can be worn comfortably all day, without forsaking great style,” Dubin says. —L.M. march 2015 • footwearplusmagazine.com 33

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PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

BEST KICKS COLLAB

RETAIL CUSTOMER SERVICE

CONCEPTS X CONVERSE “ARAN SWEATER”

HARRY’S SHOES

THE MOST IMPORTANT rule of customer service at Harry’s Shoes is simple: Always listen to your customer. Robert Goldberg, president of the Manhattan Upper West Side institution, learned this rule from his father and still takes it to heart. “We pay attention to our customer,” he states. “We really want to know how they feel and what they think. I’m out on the floor talking to them all the time.”

In addition to the sit-and-fit basics of Robert Goldberg, president comfort, this philosophy led to an expanof Harry’s Shoes sion in 2012 that gave the décor a facelift and the merchandising mix an injection of sophistication to better reflect the changing tastes and needs of the Harry’s customer base. Specifically, Harry’s broadened its selection to appeal to younger, higher-income professionals, many of whom are choosing to raise their families in the city rather than flee to the surrounding suburbs. But don’t think that Goldberg abandoned any of the 80-plus years of Harry’s service legacy in doing so. He credits the consistency of the store’s approach to business as what has garnered the Plus Award for Customer Service, not to mention similar recognition by Zagat’s in 2014. “Our overall assortment, the service level we give, the legacy of the company as a fixture on the West Side for so long and our ability to stay true to who we are make us resonate with our customers,” he states.

While Goldberg plays his service trade secret cards close to the vest, he does emphasize sales associate training as a necessity and stresses the importance of all customers being served. He monitors the sales floor himself to oversee the level of service, noting, “We’re not absenteemanaged and it’s a big focus of ours.” This hands-on approach to business is part of the Harry’s Shoes tradition. It’s also frequently cited by an array of wholesale executives as a textbook example of how service should be conducted.

Overall, Goldberg views 2014 as an OK year. “Mother nature sure could’ve been more cooperative,” he laughs, noting that the cold and snowy weather at least bolstered boot sales. As for 2015, he plans to stay the course. “I just want to run the best business I can and be held in the highest regard by our customers,” he says. —Lauren Fusilier

»

CONCEPTS COULD HAVE taken the easy route when it came to creating a St. Patrick’s Day-themed collab. Throw a few shamrocks on a sneaker, maybe a leprechuan detail on the tongue, add a little green and call it a day. But that’s not how the Cambridge, MA-based sneaker boutique rolls. Moreover, the store has many discerning eyes upon it—the U.S. Census reports its Boston home base is the city with the most concentrated population of Irish descent at around 20 percent.

Concepts owner Tarek Hassan and general manager Deon Point knew their design team had to kick it up a notch to deliver a shoe that would stand above the expected as well as make the locals proud. Enter its Concepts x Converse “Aran Sweater” hi-top. The key detail of this take on the brand’s classic Pro Leather silhouette: swapping the signature upper material with a cream-colored wool blend like the traditional Irish sweater. An orange Chevron and green star logo completed the look, and the sneaker came with additional options of green and orange laces. “We didn’t think slapping a shamrock on a sneaker would be justifiable,” Point says. “So we dug a little deeper into how the holiday came about and the background of Irish immigrants coming to America. We wanted it to reflect the holiday but also pay homage to Boston’s huge Irish population.”

Mission accomplished. But it wasn’t easy, Point notes. Incorporating the bulky sweater material came with numerous challenges. In fact, Point says the Concepts team had been working on a variation of the design for three years. “Other brands we approached just couldn’t execute our vision properly,” he says. “It had to be 100 percent or we just wouldn’t do it.” Hassan notes that Converse stepped up and delivered.

“We take pride in every single one of our collabs, but this particular one hasn’t ever been done before—it involved creating a new way to make a shoe,” Hassan says.

Only a couple hundred pairs of the “Aran Sweater” ($110) were made, having gone on sale a few days before the holiday in the store only. “We sold out in minutes,” Hassan reports, noting a few hundred people waited in line. “We could have sold in the thousands—2,500 to 3,500, for sure,” Point says. “And I don’t think it would have been just Irish people either.

Everybody’s a little bit Irish around that holiday, right?”

Beyond pleasing a couple hundred lucky sneakerheads and Concepts’ celebrity and athlete clientele, Point believes the “Aran Sweater” helped raise the bar with respect to all holiday-themed collabs by forcing designers to look at such projects differently. “Now you can’t just do a Christmasthemed shoe in red and green,” he says. “Or a St. Patrick’s Day-themed shoe just by putting a shamrock on it or a Halloween shoe featuring a pumpkin…You’ve got to dig deeper.” —Greg Dutter

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It’s What’s Inside...

ATHLETIC LIFESTYLE

NEW BALANCE THE COMBINATION OF fresh ideas and heritage at New Balance served the brand well in 2014. Take the launch of its men’s Bespoke Made in USA 998 sneaker, as an example: The classic silhouette seeks to capture the beauty of simplicity by using premium luxe materials like Horween leather in styles that come in deep burgundy with beet red details and rich brown with mustard trim.

“It showcases the iconic nature of our brand while celebrating craftsmanship,” states Steve Gardner, general manager of lifestyle at New Balance.

With the Normcore trend hitting its peak in 2014, the iconic New Balance jogger silhouette caught stride with the comfortdriven movement. The year saw forgotten gems from the archives re-emerge in new colorways, inspired by fresh themes and designed through the lens of collaborators. A top performer, the 574 Pennant Pack, was inspired by vintage baseball jerseys and featured a combination of suede and heather knit uppers. In addition, the 420 Tomboy style for women reached a wide customer base, according to Gardner, because it appealed to the sporty girl as well as the fashionista with its clean lines. He lauds the Ronnie

Fieg x New Balance 530 collab—the deep red, brown and gold colorways were meant to reflect Central Park in late fall, the insoles were custom-printed with a map of the park and the typography appearing on the shoe matched that of New York street signs.

Perhaps the most venerable collab of 2014 was the Concepts x New Balance 997 Rosé. Created in conjunction with the Concepts pop-up shop in New York’s Tribeca neighborhood , the model takes its inspiration from the celebratory drink and featured a rose-colored suede upper with crocodileembossed accents. Gardner says it was “game changing for what it represented” in that it helped popularize the re-launched 997 silhouette across the board.

Putting new spins on classic styles, making individual designs unique with subtle details and delivering time-honored quality all contribute to New Balance’s solid year in the Athletic Lifestyle category. “Fundamentally, we’ve been able to capture trends that excite consumers while staying true to who we are as a brand,” Gardner notes. “We have also been a consistent partner for our retailers—we listened to them and we delivered products that were great wearable stories.” —L.F.

New Balance 997 Rosé

ortholite.com

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PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

CHILDREN’S

JAMBU THE SHOES MAY be little, but the response was big for Jambu Kids in 2014. “Sales increased fivefold year-over-year and 2015 is on pace to more than double 2014 revenue,” reports John Licata, sales director for the Vida Shoes Intl. brand. “We’re very fortunate to have a lot of new specialty retail-

ers selling the brand—our independent door count has doubled year-over-year.”

While many brands in the children’s shoe category focus on takedowns of adult styles, Jambu’s approach is to design shoes that meet the specific needs and tastes of its target audience with kid-friendly features, engaging colors and versatile designs. “We take a thoughtful, strategic approach to how we can meet the child’s needs,” Licata explains. “We know, for example, kids are intrigued by nature and we use that in our designs and colors. Then we add an educational component to our packaging and marketing.” Each shoe features an animal fun fact that changes by the season and every shoebox offers a seeded tag that the child can plant.

Naly Lee, design director, notes the brand’s Mary Jane collection—the Boa, Fia, Blossom and Greenwich—was a home run in 2014. “They captured the feminine details such as iridescent/glitter webbing and floral meshes, and combined them

with functional rubber grip outsoles and toe protection for a perfect mix of fun and sparkle with durability,” she says, adding that a girls’-specific last was used to ensure a better fit. Another highlight was a waterproof collection that featured quick closures for kids on the go and insulation so they can play in the cold. Because, as Licata explains, pleasing kids is one aspect, but moms have to be sold on the product attributes as well. “Today’s mom wants a shoe that can do everything—it has to look great with an outfit, but also work on the playground and in the water,” he says.

Lee believes Jambu’s vibrant colors and little design details help the brand stand out on the shelf.

“Whether it’s a reptile or floral print on webbings, our shoes are all about the details,” she says. “Color combinations are often unexpected—like mixes of glitters or neon camo on our outsoles—that are the perfect amount of details that kids are constantly drawn to.” —J.L.

SIT & FITS

REYERS SHOE STORE

REYERS SHOES, DUBBED the world’s largest shoe store at 36,000 square feet and 175,000 pairs in inventory, is also one of the country’s oldest, having opened its doors in 1886. The Sharon, PA-based sitand-fits mecca has served millions of customers since the Jubelirer family took control in 1953.

Reyers is big in many aspects, but one facet has remained a constant: everyone gets their feet measured.

President Mark Jubelirer believes it all starts at the fitting stool. “You’ve got to know what you’re doing—take their shoes off, measure their feet and, when they try on a pair, watch them walk around. You may notice a heel slip or toe sliding and you can accommodate the customer in ways they didn’t even know they needed,” he states.

Jubelirer notes that more than half of Reyers’ customers wear sizes other than a regular medium-width shoe.

And while narrow and wide options used to be widely available at local family-run shoe stores, those stores and the knowledgeable salespeople they employed are now fewer and farther between. That’s where Reyers Shoes comes into play, serving its loyal customer base that has spread across the country over the years.

“We’re about taking care of every customer—we’re not running away from customers who need a bit more service,” Jubelirer asserts. “Our employees have devoted themselves, they are knowledgeable and they get genuine satisfaction from helping customers.”

Jubelirer credits the entire Reyers workforce for making the business successful, and he dedicates the Plus Award to them.

As for what the future may hold, who really knows. But the aim at Reyers remains steadfast: “Work hard and keep doing what we’re doing,” Jubelirer says. “I believe if you pay attention, if you’re out there on the selling floor asking questions and getting feedback from customers and from your employees—really listening to what they’re saying—then everything takes care of itself.” —L.F

MEN’S COLLECTION

WOLVERINE 1000 MILE Centennials are a big deal and Wolverine 1000 Mile knows it.

That’s why the Rockford, MI-based brand did more than blow out some candles to celebrate when its iconic 1000 Mile Boot turned 100 in 2014. A special Centennial Edition of the original pattern featuring an All-American update hit stores in the fall and Martin Shobo, global product line manager, claims, “Everyone went wild.”

Made in Wolverine’s Big Rapids, MI, factory using genuine American bison from the Horween Leather Company, the Goodyear welt construction sits atop a leather outsole with a Vibram heel. Shobo describes the style as “a good story to tell with American bison being a true American beast.” He adds, “We have some diehard 1000 Mile

fans and they were just so excited when we did something unexpected and celebrated 1000 Mile in all its true authenticity.”

That’s not the only reason the brand was crowned best Men’s Collection at the Plus Awards.

“Between domestic and international sales, we’ve had an increase of 20 to 25 percent,” Shobo reveals, pointing to the Montague Chelsea boot and the Wesley wingtip chukka as top sellers. “We’re really happy with the momentum that we’re driving,” he adds. “The products are so timeless; you can go to New York and see the hipsters wearing them and come to Michigan and see a guy who’s 45 wearing them.

The appeal is so diverse and that’s what brings people in.”

Rather than chase whatever’s trending on the runway, Wolverine 1000 Mile sticks to what it knows: heritage. “The Wolverine brand was born with work. That’s a real inspiration for us each season,” Shobo notes. It’s a strategy that works. “With us there’s a sense of honesty in our designs because they’re our own. We haven’t ripped off any other design work in the marketplace. It’s all built up in our archives, in our library, from 1883 right through to today,” he says. “Being honest and true in our design work is what sets us apart.” —L.M.

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NATIONAL CHAIN

NORDSTROM

INNOVATIONS IN COMFORT PRESENTED BY ORTHOLITE

CLARKS

»

Sarah Jessica Parker

WHOEVER COINED THE phrase “four is a party” must have been referring to Nordstrom because for the fourth year in a row the nearly 100-year-old luxury retailer has received the Plus Award nod for Excellence in Retail in the National Chain category. Its third-quarter earnings reported an 8.9 percent increase in revenue, driven primarily by gains in its online and off-price divisions. Total sales at the company’s Rack division increased by 15 percent (owing to robust growth at existing stores and the opening of 27 locations in 2014), while net sales at the combined NordstromRack.com and Haute Look flash sale site surged by 34 percent.

So what’s the Seattle-based retailer’s secret? According to Scott Meden, executive vice president and GMM of footwear, it’s simple: “We are uniquely positioned to serve customers however they want to shop.” He adds, “We don’t think customers care about channels; they just want to shop whenever and wherever is convenient for them. Our focus continues to be on elevating our service for our customers, remaining relevant and evolving by giving customers choices.”

In 2014, that included snagging the exclusive on Sarah Jessica Parker’s first foray into footwear and handbags, SJP Collection. To launch the line, the actress

and style maven embarked on a promotional tour of select Nordstrom stores across the country where she met with customers and signed shoes. “We were thrilled to offer customers the once-in-alifetime experience to meet Sarah Jessica in our stores. She was so approachable and open to meeting with her fans and customers,” Meden says.

Nordstrom also introduced customization technology last year in the form of “Design Your Own Shoes,” an in-store design studio at its Bellevue, WA, location in partnership with Australian website Shoes of Prey. Shoppers can choose from 12 silhouettes and more than 170 fabric options, as well as heel heights and embellishments, to create their dream shoe. “It’s a great solution for customers who wear very large or very small shoe sizes,” Meden notes. Five more shop-in-shops are slated to launch in Q1 of this year.

While Meden is keeping mum on what else is coming down the pipeline this year, he stresses that Nordstrom will remain steadfastly committed to seeing the business through the eyes of the consumer.

“Our focus continues to be on elevating the service experience we offer our customers, remaining relevant and serving them however they want to shop,” he says. —L.M.

WHILE FASHION AND comfort used to be considered separate entities when it came to shoemaking, today’s more comfort-conscious consumer expects a shoe to feel as good as it looks. It takes innovation and creativity to deliver attractive shoes that possess great comfort properties—a skill Clarks delivered on once again in 2014 and why the brand was recognized with the Innovations in Comfort Plus Award, presented by OrthoLite.

“Clarks has done a wonderful job of customizing comfort in each of its collections to get peak performance—each kind of shoe is fitted with a unique foam combination to deliver specialized comfort features,” says Pamela Gelsomini, president of OrthoLite.

Indeed, comfort features have been at the core of Clarks for nearly 200 years. Rick Byrne, senior vice president of research and development at Clarks, declares: “A great shoe is the sum of its parts. Understanding hardness, resilience and densities of sole compounds, choosing the right compound with the best feel and having amazing lasts as the great fit foundations of everything we build are all key components.” These components are reconfigured for each style.

Clarks introduced three comfort innovations of note in 2014.

The Active Air Vent technology circulates fresh outside air through the shoe by way of a small air bladder encapsulated in the heel. Clarks Plus delivers targeted cushioning where feet need it most and a new gait mapping technology promotes natural foot motion.

Also launched in 2014 was Clarks’ Cushion concept, which encompasses a series of different under-foot comfort applications. It is an umbrella under which the differing comfort-driven technologies can be categorized, Byrne explains. “Ultimately, where the consumer sees Clarks Cushion, they’ll know it’s a commitment that the product will deliver to our high comfort standards,” he says. After all, these standards are what have built the loyal consumer following and new innovations are the reason that Byrne believes the brand will continue to thrive in a competitive marketplace. “Our work is never done,” he says. “The innovative spirit of Clarks and the desire to find new and better ways to offer comfort and style is a core part of the brand’s personality.” —L.F. march 2015 • footwearplusmagazine.com 37

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PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE WOMEN’S COLLECTION

SAM EDELMAN

FOR THE THIRD consecutive year, Rockport has distinguished itself with a Plus Award in the Men’s Comfort category. Robust sales in the back half of 2014 were fueled by new product introductions, and waterproof footwear boosted sell-through in the fall and early winter. (On a side note: Berkshire Partners and New Balance inked a deal to purchase The Rockport Company from the Adidas Group. The transaction is slated to close later this year and Bob Infantino, a former Rockport executive vice president prior to his 18-year run at Clarks Companies N.A., will be the CEO.) Rockport’s design highlights this past fall included XCS—a versatile, outdoorsy city to trail collection—along with an expanded grouping of rugged outdoor styles. Additionally, the company took a strong stance with its proprietary Hydro-Shield waterproof technology that was featured in dress and active casual lines.

Boots, ranging from moto styles to dressier expressions, were also an integral part of the brand’s seasonal offering. An expansion of the RocSports Lite collection with ActivFlex and Zone Crush, featuring ExoSoft EVA for a smooth, comfy and lightweight ride, rounded out the presentation.

“We continue to focus on the aspect of mobil-

ity for all-day wear and we are thinking of the wearing experience in a holistic manner,” says Dave Pompel, Rockport’s vice president of men’s product. “Our balance of comfort and style continues to resonate with consumers.”

Thanks to a cold and snowy winter, boots and waterproof styles energized Rockport’s business. “We offer waterproof in all categories—dress, casual and rugged—and had strong sell-through in all three, proving that waterproof is no longer only applicable in boots,” Pompel says. “Our waterproof dress across all collections continues to perform year-round at retail.” Pompel adds its chukka boots, which began to sell in August, were another bright style in the collection. He expects it will carry through into this spring as consumers look for multi-season use from their purchases.

Overall, Pompel says Rockport’s design mission is to be trend-relevant while always providing a comfort solution across all its categories. “We leverage all of that against our comfort footwear principles,” he says. —J.L.

136 YEARS OF boot making experience paid off for Justin Brands in 2014: The company experienced some of the highest sales numbers in its history and its Justin Boots brand earned a Plus Award for Design Excellence in Cowboy Boots. Louis Russo, brand manager, attributes the success to Justin’s ability to stay true to its roots and three core characteristics: Western character, authenticity and craftsmanship. “Justin Boots has built a reputation for authentic, detailed craftsmanship, producing a quality product at a great value,” he says. “This tradition and our deep Western roots resonate well with our consumer, and because of that we’ve been able to keep their trust and respect.”

Every Justin Boots style is made in the United States and features a combination of performance, comfort and style. The Justin Bent Rail collection, in particu-

lar, performed best at retail in 2014. The star of the line, a men’s boot with a leather outsole and square toe box, offers the brand’s signature J-Flex Flexible Comfort System insole, a long base block heel and a bold, punchy colored upper. An array of other on-trend details such as distressed leather treatments, intricately stitched designs, pops of color and creative piping illustrates the brand’s commitment to updating its aesthetic without straying from its heritage.

For women, that was realized in a color palette ranging from turquoise to fuchsia with patterns inspired by traditional paisley prints and dream catcher motifs—styles that have been playfully coined, “I’m with the band” boots. “You can see the character in the craftsmanship, the leathers, the stitching—you can almost see the well-worn hands that have been building our boots since 1879,” Russo says.

Justin Boots’ design inspiration often comes from its customers, Russo adds. “That input, alongside our product development team, is truly invaluable,” he says. “We are fully integrated into our customer’s lifestyle, and that’s what helps make us the leading brand in the Western footwear category.” —T.D.

MEN’S COMFORT

ROCKPORT

COWBOY BOOTS

JUSTIN BRANDS

LAST YEAR ONE would be hard-pressed to read through the usual crop of monthly fashion glossies and not encounter a Sam Edelman shoe—or two or three. Edelman’s on-trend, built straight from the runway designs attract the attention of fashion editors from Vogue, In Style and Harpers Bazaar, on a monthly basis. As well as the likes of super model Kate Upton who signed on for a third season as the face of the ad campaign.

“It’s the whimsical nature of the brand along with our ability to translate trends to create wearable styles that cause our designs to stand out in the marketplace,” says Sam Edelman, designer, founder and president for the division of Brown Shoe Company.

For 2014, that meant an expanded dress category for spring and a strong menswear-inspired collection for fall. “In addition to the launch of our apparel line,” says Edelman, “2014 was a banner year for the brand.”

In putting together his footwear collections, Edelman gleaned inspiration from the streets of London, Milan, Paris and St. Tropez. He says he was inspired by the women he saw during those travels. “She wants wearable and versatile items,” he notes. Edelman responded with an androgynous menswear-infused offering that included sleek smoking slippers along with bold penny loafers feminized with a block heel. In addition, Edelman introduced a sporty trainer package full of vulcanized slip-on sneakers and fashion-forward lace-ups.

Edelman brings more than 30 years of experience to the design table and has developed some of the most successful shoe collections in the industry. His resume includes stints with Candies, as co-founder of Kenneth Cole, leading Esprit and the launch of Sam & Libby before launching his eponymous brand in 2004. The 2014 collection epitomizes the blending of his seasoned knowledge and his knack for knowing the next hot shoe. Classic d’Orsay pumps live beside studded cage sandals illustrating the brand’s diversity as well as Edelman’s in-depth understanding of what the Sam Girl wants: a simple, streamlined pump for day and a dangerously sexy sandal by night. “Our customer knows she can count on us to offer trend on products each and every season,” Edelman says. —T.D.

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VF Corporation congratulates Vans 速 on its achievement as Footwear Plus Brand of the Year and for Design Excellence in Surf, and

The North Face 速 on its award for Design Excellence in Outdoor Footwear.

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PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

BOUTIQUE

LITTLE BLACK DRESS

MOXIE

VINCE CAMUTO

FOLLOW THE COBBLESTONE roads of Beacon Hill to Moxie, Boston’s neighborhood shoe boutique. The European vibe of the historic district brings in loyal locals and curious tourists alike and Owner Karen Fabbri makes sure that everyone who visits leaves the store with a smile, whether or not they leave with a bag in hand. This is part of what she credits to Moxie’s 13 years of success (and counting), noting, “The neighborhood feel, the friendliness of the staff, the genuine and down-to-earth experience that customers have here, along with our fun sense of style in the merchandising mix, all contribute to sales and customer loyalty.”

Moxie’s ambience is what Fabbri calls hip feminine—vibrant purple walls, crystal ball chandeliers and an accent wall of backlit cutout circles contribute to the energetic space, which she notes reflects Moxie’s customers. Serving an active set of women in the 25- to 60-year-old age range, the shop caters to the fashion

VINCE CAMUTO LEFT behind a legacy that will continue to flourish thanks largely to the unshakable foundation he built it upon. The fashion legend, who passed away in late January, was at the forefront of building two footwear empires: Nine West and the Camuto Group. Camuto forever changed the footwear industry with his impeccable business acumen and unmatched style, and 2014 was no exception. His namesake label experienced another outstanding year across a range of styles, including elevated biker boots, sparkling stilettos, effortless courts and bedecked ballet flats with a signature flexible, gripped sole.

While 2014 may go down as a year that saw many grasping at what trends to commit to, as mixed signals and unpredictable weather played havoc on traditional businesses, Camuto tapped into his famous sixth sense and predicted the rise of the transitional bootie.

With an emphasis on seasonless boots, the line excelled. Fusing the formal with the casual, a bevy of jet black and rich brown leather ankle boots were adorned with metallic buckles, chains, toe caps and zippers. The collection, spanning moto boots to spikey stiletto booties, garnered the attention of fashion editors, celebrities and the everyday woman looking for a chic shoe at a great price point that Camuto has always focused on delivering. Beyond boots, highlights from the collection included python textured pumps and lace-up stilettoes. The Vince Camuto woman sought sophistication with an edge, and Camuto delivered with styles that took her from day to night and through snow and rain.

Camuto himself may be gone, but the Camuto Group is committed to carrying on his legacy. The company’s ambitious three- to fiveyear plan includes opening 100 additional stores across the United States. It’s a strategy that worked well for Nine West back in the day.

To say, however, the company won’t miss a beat without the man at the helm is an understatement of epic proportions. Camuto simply can’t be replaced. Nonetheless, women around the world can rest assured that his commitment to creating beautiful, wearable shoes has been instilled in the brand’s DNA. Expect plenty of beautiful Vince Camuto shoes in the seasons ahead. —T.D.

needs of young moms, professionals and empty-nesters who have returned to city life with an array of contemporary American designer offerings. Top-selling brands including Tory Burch, Cynthia Vincent, Delman and Jack Rogers.

The classic styles popular at Moxie reflect Boston’s traditional and somewhat preppy aesthetic, but Fabbri strives to add fresh picks to the mix. “People hit ruts and keep buying what they’re used to, but it’s my job to introduce them to new things and help kick up their style a notch,” she says. Fabbri and her buying partner and store manager, Kaylie Abela, not only fill the space with a carefully curated selection, they also open up Moxie for guest lectures to promote foot and overall fitness, as well as feature diet and style experts on occasion.

Interacting with the community, be it in person or via Moxie’s active social media presence, is at the core of Fabbri’s retail philosophy. The boutique, like any retail business, has seen its share of ups and downs—it got off to a rocky start with its grand opening in early October 2001 just weeks after the 9-11 attacks—and its second location (in Wellesley, MA) opened in 2009 and closed recently. But Fabbri has never lost faith and believes Moxie will remain a Boston fixture in the years ahead.

“I feel like you need to be optimistic in this business,” she asserts. “You’d better love the people you talk to every day and the merchandise you surrounded yourself with because, at the end of the day, you’re really doing this for the experience.” —L.F. 40 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2015

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BOOTS

UGG AUSTRALIA UGG AUSTRALIA, A brand that’s been making its iconic shearling boots for nearly 40 years, continued to stay at the tip of the fashion spear in 2014. Sure, a cold winter helped fuel demand, but that was only one aspect that made Ugg the most searched item—for a third consecutive year—on Cyber Monday.

“We are first and foremost dedicated to maintaining the emotional connection between our product and our consumer,” says Connie Rishwain, president of Ugg Australia, noting that every style affords the same level of distinct comfort. “They evoke a sensation that feels like nothing else,” she adds. That unique combination of comfort paired with innovative new materials and fashion-forward silhouettes kept the brand relevant in 2014.

In particular, Ugg Australia diversified its product offering while remaining true to its comfort lifestyle DNA. The brand’s most recent ad campaign with the tagline “This is Ugg” featured tastemaker Langely Fox Hemingway (at right) and New England Patriots quarterback Tom Brady and included items from its men’s, women’s and kids’ collections as well as home products like blankets, pillows and rugs. The campaign aimed to establish Ugg as a year-round lifestyle brand. “There is something in this collection for everyone,” Rishwain says.

Though the Classic Short boot remains the brand’s best-seller, the Fall ’14 collection introduced consumers to a bevy of new styles, including the Simmens, a trans-seasonal boot with a wool blend shaft and decorative double buckle details and the Chancery, a tall boot that speaks to the cityloving style savant equipped with bomber jacket Twinface sheepskin and a short stacked heel. “The product team was inspired by stories that made

an impression on their lives,” Rishwain offers. Realized in an oxblood rich color scheme, the collection boasts a range of materials spanning tailored plaids to chunky sweater knits as well as extravagant extras like bold buckles, chic zippers and edgy rivets. “Each detail is unique and intends to help tell the story,” she says.

Beyond the details, Rishwain says Ugg’s design ethos is a blend of style and function. “Our research shows that consumers have a strong desire for fashion to coexist with function,” she says. That ranges from unexpected waterproof styles to stacked heel booties that allow wearers to trudge through snow, but look stylish in the process. “We produced a multi-functional collection that can take our consumer from day to night seamlessly,” Rishwain says. —T.D.

WE ARE HUMBLED. WE ARE HONORED. WE ARE JUSTIN. Heartfelt thanks to our retailers, employees and other partners for helping us take top honors for design excellence in Cowboy Boots.

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PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

OUTDOOR

THE NORTH FACE IN THE HYPER-COMPETITIVE outdoor performance footwear market it can be tough to stand apart from the competition, but The North Face, a division of VF Corp.’s Outdoor and Action Sports coalition, made significant headway on the footwear front in 2014. A particular design highlight was the Ultra Series, a collection of lightweight, technical styles with a modern, athleticinspired aesthetic.

“These were styles that were built to meet the demands of athletes who prefer lighter weight, higher-performing shoes but were frustrated by the lack of protection available in more minimal footwear,” says Brian Moore, vice president of footwear. “While still being considerably lighter than most conventional outdoor shoes, our hiker, trail runner and trainer didn’t skimp on features and provided best-in-class technologies like Gore-Tex, Vibram, Cradle Guide, Pebax plates, Ultra Airmesh and Flashdry.”

Moore credits senior designer, Bertrand Racine, for developing the strong and more progressive visual language that was introduced on the Ultra Guide model the year before. The North Face then utilized that language across a spectrum of products spanning the primary outdoor activities, which became the Ultra Series. “[Models in the Ultra Series] are built with a much more modern and refined sensibility than you would normally see in traditional outdoor shoes,” Moore says. “Stitched, heavy leathers and suedes were replaced with high-performance synthetics that were welded to increase durability and reduce weight.

The result was a more modern take on what a hiker, trail runner and mountain athletic trainer could look like.”

The line’s unique look and construction method helped it stand out on the shoe wall, and the design consistency across the collection made it more recognizable to the customer. Moore adds, “We stayed away from traditional browns and beiges and incorporated colors that were more progressive and in line with the way our apparel looks in the market, featuring iconic colors like black, silver and The North Face red.”

The incorporation of functional details that also provide a unique aesthetic— many of which were first used in the brand’s high-end Verto mountaineering line—were key inspirations in the design process. Principle among these was a support structure that keeps the midfoot in place using welded TPU instead of layers of leather. “This has since been dubbed the ‘geo’ and while functional in its intent, it has resulted in a very consistent and more modern look across the [Ultra Series] collection,” Moore says.

The success of the brand’s products certainly had a positive effect on the bottom line in 2014 and has been recognized in the press—the brand scored a Gear of the Year award for its Ultra Trail from Outside and Runner’s World gave the style a Best Debut nod. “Our footwear business has seen double-digit growth yearover-year,” Moore confirms, adding that the hiking segment has also been a standout. “Our technical outdoor business has spiked since the introduction of the Ultra Series in Spring ’14 and we have since incorporated that design language in other styles including high-volume hikers in our Storm collection and in the relaunch of our Hedgehog series, which will hit the market this spring.” —J.L.

OUTDOOR STYLE

SOREL IN 2014, SOREL, the Columbia Sportswear-owned subsidiary, hit its stride with a line that fused function with style. The fresh looks (led by its Medina II bootie), innovative materials, performance technologies and versatile silhouettes blended outdoor heritage with fashion-forward designs that clicked at retail. That and last winter’s super-cold weather helped spike 40 percent growth in Sorel’s fourth quarter sales to $92.1 million. (Fiscal year 2014 sales increased to $166.2 million.)

According to Erin Sander, Sorel’s global product director, the Fall ’14 collection featured premium boots that amplified equestrian and western wear trends with varying boot heights, a variety of patterned uppers, and the use of textiles and chunky knits.

The collection offered consumers versatile fashion options as well as protection and style. “We continue to see our consumers craving functional and stylish footwear that transitions effortlessly from outdoor to fashion,” she says.

The aforementioned Medina II, a bold and puddle-proof ankle rain bootie, fits that crossover definition to a T. “Industrial-inspired metal hardware and a gold metal sleeve riveted on the heel and a removable full-grain leather gaiter make this a more functional, avant-garde alternative to other rain boots on the market,” she says.

Other highlights in the women’s collection in 2014 included the Joan of Arctic Wedge Mid, a sassy city boot on a comfy wedge platform; the Slimshortie western-inspired short boot; and the Tivoli II ankleheight winter boot that offers style in a versatile, slim silhouette.

Sander reports that the Joan of Arctic Wedge collection “is already becoming a classic and leading inspiration in our Fall ’15 line.” On the men’s side, Sander cites Sorel’s Caribou XT boot that incorporates Columbia’s proprietary Omni-Heat technology, a water- and wind-resistant textile upper and a waterproof, vulcanized rubber outsole as a standout.

Sorel’s momentum looks to continue into this year as retailers embrace the brand and expand shelf space. Sorel could also benefit from another record-cold winter for the eastern third of the country, which helped clean out boot inventories and may inspire consumers to prepare themselves to battle the elements—in style—when next winter arrives. —J.L.

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PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE ONLINE RETAILER

ZAPPOS KEDS X TAYLOR SWIFT WHEN KEDS LAUNCHED a collaboration in 2013 with pop sensation Taylor Swift—both being talismans of All-American style—one might have expected the partnership to be a hit. The seven-time Grammy winning, multi-platinum singer/songwriter looked right at home in the brand’s Braveheart campaign wearing a polka-dot dress paired with Keds’ classic Champion kicks.

Everything she touches seems to turn to gold and the debut collab was no exception.

The Keds x Taylor Swift collection for 2014 picked up right where the debut left off, and even exceeded expectations. “We had a phenomenal year,” reports Holly Curtis, director of design at Keds, “We were able to reach the entire globe with our product and message, and sales really reflected those efforts.”

The Fall ’14 collection featured 17 iconic Champion styles re-imagined in an array of quirky prints and bold-colored solids. Highlights included herringbone bow prints and poppy Daisy seersucker styles. The traditional patterns were reinvented in fresh ways that looked simultaneously modern and classic—much like the singer who designed them. “As a heritage brand we are constantly striving to strike a balance between authenticity and having a modern point-of-view,” Curtis explains, citing the denim and chambray styles as being emblematic of the brand’s mission to push the creative limits while remaining true to its roots. Curtis adds that the collection was born out of a desire to turn everyday classics into something really special. And partnering with Swift is also a way to acknowledge the brand’s connection to leading American women through the course of its 99-year history. “Keds celebrated Taylor’s place in the brand’s history of being loved by leading ladies alongside Marilyn Monroe and Jackie Kennedy,” she says. “We really see Taylor as an icon of classic American style.”

The collab is not only skin, or in this case, canvas deep. Of course, the product must look great in order to sell, but Keds is hoping that Swift, being such a superb role model, rubs off on both the brand and young women. “We love how she can inspire us and our consumers to be comfortable in our own skin and just put ourselves out there,” Curtis say. She credits Swift’s fearlessness for having pushed the collection to being truly unique with its bevy of bright colors and original prints.

“These are shoes that don’t put you in a box, they can be styled lots of different ways so that you can really own your own look.” —T.D.

FOR FOUR YEARS running Zappos has taken home the Plus Award for Retail Excellence in the Online category. The retailer has pretty much set the tier’s gold standard and its name has become as synonymous with online shoe retailing as Kleenex has to tissues.

Jeff Espersen, general manager of footwear, attributes Zappos’s success to the company’s grounding in customer service.

“We’re always thinking about the customer Jeff Espersen, general and how we can better serve them,” he manager of footwear affirms. “We’re a service company.”

A large portion of that service commitment centers around Zappos’s renowned call center, where a team of representatives is available 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, to assist shoppers with their needs.

Unlike many other online companies that use overseas-based thirdparty reps, the Zappos team is U.S.-based and committed to making shopping as seamless as possible. That means no stilted scripts that must be followed. Service is given on an individual, as-needed basis that Espersen says helps build relationships with customers. The approach has resulted in everything from an infamous 10-hour-long service call that ended with the sale of a single pair of Ugg boots to a representative sending shoes to a customer via a competitor to flowers and condolences sent from the Zappos team delivered to a funeral that a customer was buying proper shoes to attend.

This care extends to Zappos’ wholesale partners, as well. Esperson reports that the retailer is very cognizant of treating its vendors well, picking them up from the airport, ferrying them wherever they might need to go afterward and helping them set up their presentations. The genuine approach to relationships makes for a positive experience with whoever comes into contact with the company. “We believe it’s the simple things that people remember,” Espersen offers. “We’re always trying to get better, whether that’s in service, in our brand offering or in making it simple for the customer to find what they need.”

The desire to streamline the site led to the implementation of a regular price level on Zappos in 2014. No longer offering sale or clearance items helped clear away clutter that often distracted customers from finding what they were looking to buy. “It can be overwhelming because there’s just so much out there,” Espersen says of the streamlined makeover. “The regular price strategy allows us to show the product we want and helps customers find what they want sooner.” —L.F.

»

BEST COLLAB

Taylor Swift

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T R E N D S P OT T I N G

1

2

4

3

Silver Bullets Gunmetal adds a shot of gritty bling to classic silhouettes.

1. Born 2. D.usk 3. Smac Studio 4. Sofft

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Pointreidght in theection dir

FALL

‘15

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T R E N D S P OT T I N G

3

1

2

Heel Raisers

Retro, metro and hiker elements adorn these stacked heel lace-up boots.

1. GX 2. Pikolinos 3. Peter Nappi

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Helm short lace-to-toe boots, parka by Woolrich, WeSC T-shirt, sweater by Levi’s, Steven Alan trousers, stylist’s own scarf.

51

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Born military-inspired boots, plaid shirt by American Apparel, Abercrombie & Fitch jeans.

Opposite: Peter Nappi cap-toe boots, brogue hikers by Wolverine No. 1883.

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Toms fold-over, moc-toe boots, vintage Pendleton jacket, T-shirt

by American Apparel, Levi’s jeans, socks by United Legwear.

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Wolverine 1000 Mile wedge work boot with Goodyear welt construction. Opposite: Dr. Martens toe-capped combat boots, cardigan by Abercrombie & Fitch, Steven Alan shirt, Woolrich chinos, stylist’s own watch.

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Clockwise from top left: Volcom hikers with assymetrical detail, lace-up chukka by Rockport, Pikolinos navy wedge boot, Wolky rich chocolate boot with wingtip detail, Rocky chukka with rubber outsole. Opposite: Denim shirt by Joe’s Jeans.

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Geox worn-in leather lace-up. Opposite: Classic utility boots by Chippewa, beanie by WeSC, Solid and Striped sweatshirt, vintage jeans by Levi’s, United Legwear socks.

Fashion Editor: Tara Anne Dalbow; stylists: Sara Dunn and Alejandro Garcia; hair and makeup: Angela Huff/Mark Edward Inc.; model: Brandon/Q Management.

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DESIGNER CHAT

Jane Frances

MODERN CLASSICS “SHOES ARE OFTEN my first impression of people and I usually find it fairly close to the mark,” says Jane Frances, the brains behind London-based footwear label Dear Frances.

“Smart feet show a smart attitude. Quirky or brightly colored shoes reflect a similar personality. Shoes have a subtle way of saying, ‘This is who I really am,’ and I like that.”

So how does the designer define Dear Frances fans? “Discerning, sophisticated women with a clear sense of self, a relaxed sense of style and a naturally strong elegance,” she says.

A graduate of both the London College of

Fashion and ModaPelle Academy in Milan, Italy, Frances launched her Italian-made line this fall, focusing on sharp heels and layered flats combined with contemporary detailing and crisp lines. “I’ve always had an affinity for architecture and furniture design and this certainly translates in my collections,” she notes, adding, “In a sense, shoe design is like architecture for the foot—it has to be structured and involves engineering specific gradients, sole supports and so on.” Frances concentrated on more of the same in her second collection, introducing ’90s-inspired mules on blocky heels (some broken up by a slice of sherbet pink Plexiglass) and a sophisticated take on slides. “I’m fascinated by symmetry being thrown slightly off-kilter. To me, there’s something raw and romantic about that,” she says.

Moving into Fall ’15, British wools and buttery soft leathers will add some tactile interest to key

silhouettes like mid-calf boots, slides and trainers. And while spring showcased subtle shades of pink and gold amongst mostly black, white and ash gray leathers, fall sees a shift towards moody tones of blue and deep burgundy. “It’s important that our collections tell a story and have a message attached so we invest a lot of time in the initial development stage before moving onto sampling,” Frances says. “The Dear Frances woman is a unique combination of the modern and classical worlds so this is translated through everything we do.” —Lyndsay McGregor Any famous faces you would love to see wearing one of your designs? Alexa Chung. She is strong yet elegant with a punchy attitude.

What shoe must every woman have in her closet? A classic black ankle boot with a mid-size heel for that extra lift.

What trends are you tired of ? Crocs with socks.

What is your favorite part of your job? The creativity and incredible people I have met along the way.

If you weren’t designing shoes, what would you be doing? I’d be a photographer, my second love.

All-time favorite movie? Good Will Hunting.

Simply a brilliant script.

What are three things you could never live without? My husband, red wine and a good pair of ankle boots.

EDITOR’S PICKS

Kiltie Conscience The upper crust detail adds preppy panache to basics.

C. Label

Summit by White Mountain

EDITOR’S PICKS PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS

SixtySeven Miz Moos

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PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

Lifetime Achievement continued from page 29 and have enjoyed it for such a long time,” he says.

Similarly, Hanig takes pride in the fact that the longest-tenured store employee has been with him for 41 years. One of the managers has been with him for 32 years, and the average length of employment with the company is 12 years. That consistency and familiarity helps make customers feel comfortable when they walk into one of Hanig’s stores. “All business is about relationships,” he says. “It’s not just capital goods, assets and liabilities. It is about the relationships you have with your customers, employees and vendors.” Hanig adds that he and his staff work hard at building relationships with their customers. “We treasure them and go crazy for our customers,” he says, noting that the staff knows many by name.

Post cites Hanig’s “great relationships with so many people” as a key factor in his long-term success. “It starts with the folks who work in his stores—great people with attention to all aspects of customer service,” he says. “Peter and his people know how to build trust and loyalty with consumers.” Post adds that Hanig works like a partner with suppliers.

“He makes time for you and gives honest feedback or suggestions about ways to improve,” he says. “If it’s a new brand or idea, he works with you to help get the word out and suggests ways to make it easy for the staff or customer to understand the message.”

Thibeau of Ecco concurs that Hanig’s longevity can be traced back to his consistency and the solid relationships he has built with vendors and employees. “Peter’s attitude conveys to vendors that he wants to do great things—together,” he says. “He understands and appreciates that vendors have strategic goals and he’s motivated to help them while the vendors help him achieve his goals.” Plus, Thibeau says, Hanig cares about the lives of his employees. “Driving down selling costs is not a high priority.

He recognizes that providing a good living for his employees engenders great loyalty and stability.”

Then there’s Hanig’s integrity and temperament: “Peter is a mensch, period,” Thibeau says. “As savvy a retailer as he is, he’s even better as a man.

In my many years of dealing with him—even when we have disagreed—he has never behaved in an ungentlemanly way.” Thibeau says Hanig’s son possesses similar qualities. “While wired very differently, Daniel exhibits the same calmness of spirit that makes working with them a pleasure,” he says.

Hanig, too, is pleased by what his son is bringing to the table. Daniel grew up in the business, working summers and holidays. After studying art in college and considering a career as a graphic artist after graduating, he got an offer he didn’t refuse: Peter asked Daniel to turn Hanig’s nearly non-existent web presence into a viable online business. Over the past seven years, the site has grown modestly and now reaches a better-grade customer nationwide. It is not a large business, but Hanig reports that it’s profitable and growing. Equally important, he and his son discovered that they work extremely well together. Daniel has since taken on more duties, including some buying and managerial decisions. Hanig welcomes the infusion of youth and fresh perspective that his son brings. Daniel, now 30, is pushing for more say in the buying decisions, which is a good thing, according to his dad. “I tend to be a bull and go into booths with an idea of what we are going to buy,” Hanig says. “A number of times of late he’s stepped up and offered his opinion, and after I slowed down a bit, I realized he was right. I have a lot of respect for him.”

To that end, Hanig remains (guardedly) optimistic that the family business will continue to prosper under the eventual leadership of his son. It starts with adhering to the founding family retailing principles of building strong relationships with all facets of the business and always providing an experience worthy of the customer’s interest and support. “We are creating an experience, and whether or not that person buys from us or whether they come back again is based on how we handle that experience,” Hanig says. “Are we making it a great experience or an ordinary one? If it’s great then they are going to remember us and will want to shop with us again.” •

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2/26/15 11:14 AM

UPCLOSE COMFORT

The New Bohemians Joy & Mario puts a free-spirited coastal twist on comfort.

EVER WONDER HOW comfort footwear could appeal to a younger crowd? Try putting eco-friendly California-lifestyle-inspired uppers on an all natural jute and phylon comfort sole at an affordable $45-$70 retail price range like Los Angeles-based Joy & Mario. The company—which launched first in China in 2009 and entered the U.S. market in 2013—is quickly grabbing the attention of the young, post-graduate target audience that it set its sights on with its collection of trendy, casual and comfortable shoes.

Joy & Mario has reportedly sold more than seven million pairs to date and is now distributed in more than 1,000 doors around the world.

Distribution stateside includes Dillard’s, Belk, Steve Madden and boutiques across the country. Mark Chen, director of marketing, reports that the decision to test out the product in China first stemmed from a desire to establish a solid manufacturing base. While the design team has always been based in L.A., the brand’s success in the Chinese market enabled Joy & Mario to invest in its own manufacturing facility there.

“We can produce our product at a much higher quality now,” he says.

“Working with a partner to manufacture would be more difficult—our team has very specific standards that they expect to be met in terms of cost, high-quality materials and getting shipments sent on time.”

A commitment to sustainability is another driving principle for Joy & Mario. The jute in the outsoles is an all-natural, highly breathable and comfortable material. The uppers are mostly made of cotton and hand stitching is employed when possible to avoid the use of glues and chemicals. Joy & Mario also partners with BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) to ensure the highest quality cotton is used in its products. Rounding out the construction, midsoles are made of phylon (often found in running shoes) for shock absorption and cushioning and insoles are leather lined for comfort and breathability. As for the fashion aspect, Joy & Mario has become known for its vibrant stripes, canvas flag prints and bright collaborations with the likes of J. Pierce and Miami artist Davel in past collections. The brand is collaborating with the World Wildlife Fund this year on an exclusive line to help raise awareness about environmental protection and endangered wildlife.

While Chen notes the U.S. footwear market is markedly different from China’s and the brand still has a ways to go in defining its signature aesthetic, he believes its “Bohemian, back-country kind of feeling” will resonate quickest along the coasts and then spread into the center of the country. In the meantime, Joy & Mario plans to open a flagship store in L.A. this summer (location yet to be determined) to help get the word out and show its full range of styles. “Long-term,” Chen states, “we want to establish our brand as what people think of automatically when they think about beach lifestyle comfort footwear.” —Lauren Fusilier

Happy News Alegria names Scott Cates president.

ASK SCOTT CATES to describe Alegria, a division of PG Lite, in five words and he won’t hesitate: “Serious comfort and serious personality.” With a patented interlocking footbed system that incorporates memory foam and a cork base into a mild rocker outsole, the comfort claim is attested to by the many thousands of nurses and teachers— women who are on their feet all day—that help make up its “Alegria Nation” of devout fans. And when Cates refers to “serious personality,” it’s anything but somber. The brand’s “This is What Happy Looks Like” and “Color Therapy” ad campaigns that have featured an array of shoes in brilliant hues and funky prints worn by a plethora of smiling models have become “happy” hallmarks of the brand. “Our shoes almost demand a response from co-workers,” Cates offers. “But once someone notices them, it opens up the dialogue about how comfortable they are, and that’s what draws in new customers.”

Cates has been with PG Lite since 2007 and has seen the Alegria Classic clog change the whole direction of the company. The growth since its introduction in 2008 has been organic but also exponential.

Converts quickly become brand disciples, claiming the comfort benefits have changed their lives. Many stock their closet each season with the latest hues, patterns and material updates of their favorite styles.

The comfort qualities, the many options and the value price point ($119.95 suggested retail) combined have carved a loyal niche in the professional footwear market for Alegria. Cates adds that the company has built off that clog silhouette, noting that over the last few years its sandal business now accounts for nearly one third of its yearly sales.

“Our sandals tapped into a market we hadn’t reached with our work shoes,” he explains. “It has sort of reversed our distribution channel in that this new customer likes the way they look, loves how they feel and then goes on to buy the work shoes.”

One of Cates’s goals for 2015 is to duplicate the sandals’ success in the boot category. The brand’s two-inch wedge boot is the highlight of its Fall ’15 collection. He reports that, while fashionable, the style is a more conservative take for Alegria in an effort to appeal to a mainstream consumer. Key colors include black, gray, burgundy and color pops like hunter green, bronze and violet that serve as “bright icing to grab women’s attention,” according to Cates.

In the seasons ahead, Cates looks forward to focusing his 38 years of industry experience on helping Alegria’s retail partners take the brand to the next level. He cites the title of president (most recently he was national sales manager) as giving him the freedom and credibility to do so. As for long-term goals, Cates says look for the Alegria Nation to expand to encompass the Alegria Globe. “We feel confident that there are parts of the world— Canada, the UK, parts of Europe and South Africa—that aren’t really aware of us yet and we’re looking forward to the opportunities for expansion,” he says. —L.F.

64 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2015

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2/26/15 3:52 PM

SCENE & HEARD

That’s a Wrap The recent round of trade shows showcased the best of Fall ’15.

FFANY, GDS, TASM and FN Platform—take your pick—the industry debuted its cold-weather collections for the upcoming fall season amid extremely cold conditions. Even if it was sunny and warm (think: FN Platform/Las Vegas), for many industry members locked in a snowy icebox (think: the Northeast), getting anywhere was a challenge. But those that did saw plenty of styles on display and the overall vibe at the shows was guardedly optimistic (think: it could be a lot worse) as many retailers grappled with making buying decisions amid what has been

The catwalk at GDS.

a climate of unpredictable and extreme weather the past two years.

While cold and snowy weather has been good for boot sales, the recent cold springs have thrown sandal sales for a loop. Perhaps that’s behind the recent popularity of short boot silhouettes—a more transitional season option. Overall, there were a plethora of Fall ’15 trends to choose from (think: fur treatments, menswear fabrications, hikers, ballet flats, mixed media, buckles, chunky-soled loafers, grunge, derbys, burgundy, bottle green, crepe soles, festival fashion and Chelsea boots, to cite but a few).

That said there wasn’t one runaway look that buyers were banking on.

“We are seeing a lot of attention to contrast— juxtaposing elements for an unexpected surprise, say a lug sole on a dress shoe,” said Ray Serna, creative director of footwear for Tommy Bahama. “Footwear design now is all about mixing things up, whether that be with materials or ideas.”

“Buyers are gravitating toward styles that are unique and show attention to details,” agreed Laura Villasenin, designer for Miista. “Brands are becoming more fashion forward—they want to stand out.”

“Footwear is unpredictable. Now everyone is picking up the mule,” noted Martin J. Rose, agent

and distributor of All Black, who reported a strong reaction at the shows. Rose cited the brand’s unique offerings—like its paint drip story—showing particularly well. “You won’t see it anywhere else,” he said. “We’ve been busy all day (at FN Platform), seeing everyone from big buyers to little mom-and-pop shops.”

Matt Dragos, president of Rialto, a division of White Mountain, summed up the overall mood of buyers he met with at FFANY, TASM and FN Platform astutely: “The most consistent thing about the shoe business of late is everyone says the business is inconsistent.

Buyers are confused and are unsure each day of what business was like the day before.” He adds, “There’s little predictability, and when you combine this with the weather trends that have occurred in the U.S. over the last month, it has made everyone very confused on what direction business is going.” For Dragos, however, hope springs eternal, as warm weather will eventually arrive. He reports that early reads on the company’s Rialto, White Mountain, Cliffs and Summit brands were positive up to the recent cold snap. “Buyers are hoping consumers will have a little Spring Fever and come out buying strong when the weather turns back to normal,” he says.

It won’t be for a lack of options to choose from as more than 1,800 lines were on display at TASM show (in Atlanta), 900 brands exhibited at GDS show in Düsseldorf, Germany, and the 5th anniversary of FN Platform reported more than 60 percent growth in both square footage and number of exhibitors (to more than 1,600 from 20 countries) since its inception.

Leslie Gallin, president of footwear for UBM Advanstar, organizers of FN Platform, reported the show floor was busy all three days. She also took pride in the show’s anniversary: “It’s meaningful because we’ve been recognized as the most important event for the footwear industry in the U.S. in such a short amount of time,” she stated, adding that everyone came together to create a vehicle for the betterment and future growth of the industry. As for the future, Gallin notes, “We will continue to build on that momentum by nurturing emerging brands, helping established brands adapt to the changing landscape and helping the industry overall by listening to both sides of the aisle.”

Laura Conwell-O’Brien, director of the Southeastern Shoe Travelers Association’s TASM, reported a 4 percent increase in attendance and exhibit space was once again sold out—and that included adding an additional 5,500 square feet in the adjacent mall used by Nine West. The weather cooperated and the show’s Colour & Trend seminar and casino night cocktail party were sellouts. Conwell-O’Brien attributes the show’s success to its location (think: mild weather and an easy airport) and affordable

FN Platform’s Leslie Gallin presents a Glass Slipper award to Dolce Vita for most creative booth.

show rates. “We are a trade show association and not a for-profit trade show company,” she noted.

“The profit is put back into the show and we keep our booth prices to a minimum, which translates to a great ROI for our exhibitors.” Additional costsavings included a $5 hot lunch, special hotel rates, complimentary parking and being housed all under one roof. “This is the only show where buyers can see this number of vendors all under one roof,” she said, adding that attendance came from all over the East Coast. “There really isn’t another show on the East Coast that compares to us.”

The atmosphere was also positive at the GDS show as buyers got acclimated to its earlier scheduling (the beginning of February instead of the usual mid March).

“The new GDS brings together industry and retail at a point in time where information is most precious,” stated Werner Matthias Dornscheidt, president & CEO of Messe Düsseldorf, organizers of GDS. “The good mood in the halls and the busy networking serve as a benchmark of success.” Attendance was up compared to GDS’ first kickoff timing held in late July of last year and 92 percent of those surveyed responded that they were “very pleased” with the new format and earlier dates. Adds Kirstin Deutelmoser, show director, “The feedback is definite: our timing is right—at the start of the season customers are open to all things new and manufacturers can present themselves on an international stage. This is exactly what makes GDS so valuable as an information platform.”

The early February dates of FFANY were also a strong selling point for exhibitors, according to Ron Fromm, president and CEO. He noted how FFANY continues to be important as all the major retailers were in town shopping nearly 100 showrooms as well as exhibition booths at the New York Hilton Midtown. “The early dates play a substantial role for the major retailers to make sure that their flow of goods is consistent and early,” he reported, adding that because FFANY is a membership-driven organization it focuses on making sure dates support production and sales cycles. “Our members need that time to get that cycle right. We’re proud that we are the working show.” In particular, Fromm noted a strong showing of new exhibitors. “It was about twice as many than it has been historically for a February show,” he said.

“FFANY has always been seen as the launching pad and we are seeing a continuing increase in international exhibitors.” • march 2015 • footwearplusmagazine.com 65

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E-beat

Hack No!

BUYER CHAT

Magda Pietrobelli Pixie Market

The time is now for small and independent retailers to arm themselves against cyber criminals.

THINK YOUR STORE is too small to be targeted by hackers? Think again. Retail is among the top five targeted industries and, according to the Privacy Rights Clearinghouse database, in 2014 small businesses suffered more intrusions into their computer systems than large companies did. And that threat is only growing. As big box stores step up security practices and software in the wake of massive cyber attacks at Target and Home Depot, small retailers—the majority of which are the least equipped to protect themselves against a data breach—are increasingly vulnerable.

But there is light at the end of the cybersecurity tunnel. Recently proposed legislation from the White House would improve the sharing of information about threats and enforce stricter rules for data breach reporting. Until that comes into play, however, Rick Howard, chief security officer at Palo Alto Networks, a security company based in Santa Clara, CA, says it’s time for retailers, big and small, to move away from relying on outdated defense strategies—like antivirus software and firewalls— and adopt the “cyber kill chain model,” which allows for targeted threat protection. “We got this idea in the late ’90s that we could build this electronic circle around our networks and keep everything out, but it doesn’t really work,” Howard explains. “You don’t know who’s coming at you, you just know if it’s something bad.” He adds, “Instead of trying to keep everything out and failing, let’s assume the adversary is going to get in.”

That’s where the kill chain concept comes into play. According to defense giant Lockheed Martin, there are seven steps that each hacker must take to break into a computer system. Rather than waiting for late-stage attacks to become apparent, a business can save itself a lot of grief by breaking the chain of causality at any point. In other words, put yourself in your adversary’s shoes. “These aren’t random attacks. They have motivation behind them,” Howard says, noting that hackers who attack retailers are usually trying to capture credit card information.

Technology researchers at Gartner Inc. report that the reason retailers are such low-hanging fruit for hackers is because they spend only about 4 percent of their IT budgets on cybersecurity. Howard says that’s not good enough and that cyber risk needs to be treated as a big part of business management. And now that the likes of Lunarline and EarthLink, to name a few, are offering elite cybersecurity capabilities at an affordable price, independent retailers have no excuse to not arm themselves with the latest defenses. “Once we know what they’re after, we can build strategies to defend against their methodology,” Howard says. “If you know a hacker is trying to steal credit card information and you know how he gets to that goal, you can evaluate whether he can get to that goal. That’s being proactive.” —Lyndsay McGregor

Today, the Pixie Market merchandise mix is finely edited to be both trend-driven and wallet-friendly. “We focus on the ‘It’ pieces of the season and take a lot of pride in the way we showcase them on the site,” Pietrobelli says.

—Lyndsay McGregor What are some key trends for Fall ’15? Brown suede, thick platform loafers and trainers, tall boots and platform clogs.

WHEN MAGDA PIETROBELLI was working towards her bachelor’s degree in International Relations at Florida International University, she never imagined her various part-time positions along the way in fashion retail would wind up being her true calling. Then, upon graduating, she “accidentally” spent a few years in fashion wholesale and merchandising while living in Manhattan, then moved to London where she started designing and selling shoes at the Spitalfields and Portobello markets. “I decided then and there that I liked being my own boss,” she laughs.

In 2006, she teamed up with her friend, Gaelle Drevet, to open Pixie Market, a pint-size boutique in New York’s Lower East Side, stocking a smorgasbord of indie labels and on-trend pieces, from clothing and accessories to outfit-making shoes. Three years later the duo decided to add an online presence, which proved to be even more successful sales-wise than its brick-and-mortar predecessor.

(In November, the space transformed into Frankie, a concept shop aimed at “the Pixie Market girl’s older sister.”)

Meanwhile, Pixie Market’s e-commerce offering has evolved to appeal to diehard fashionistas worldwide. “When we first started online we were very New York-centric but as we saw our audience reach widen, our buying had to reflect that,” Pietrobelli offers.

What about key colors? Deep reds, bottle green and rich shades of brown.

Will boots be big? I think the knee-high gladiator trend of Spring ’15 will evolve into kneehigh boots and taller boots in general. They go well with all the ’70s-inspired looks on the runway now, from midi skirts and trench dresses to culottes.

Any new brands you’re excited about? Windsor Smith from Australia: statement shoes at an affordable price point.

Were there any runaway bestsellers over the past year that you weren’t expecting? The Adidas Stan Smith. I see it or its imitations everywhere.

What brands always sell well at Pixie Market? Jeffrey Campbell.

The brand makes exclusive styles for us in limited runs, so that makes the shoes special.

What trends are you tired of ?

Wedge sneakers.

What is your most important technology need? Having an ERP (enterprise resource planning) inventory system is crucial to any online retailer. We rely on this data for forecasting, planning and to get an overall feel for what the customers want.

66 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2015

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O&A continued from page 23

Can you?

I think so. We have an advantage of being based in Southern California where there are a lot of entrepreneurs and Silicon Valley is not too far away. Many of these people are young and think differently, which enables us to learn.

Someone was visiting our offices recently and said it feels like a tech company— the set up, the culture, etc. We are trying to be the tech company of the footwear world. We see ourselves as a market disrupter. Over the history of our company, we’ve taken risks and done things a little bit differently where other companies may not have. Fortunately, more often than not, it has worked. In order to stand out in the crowd, you do need to be a little different. There are lots of ways you can differentiate your company, and culture is one of them.

How would you describe Vionic’s culture?

It’s a blend of Australian and U.S. cultures, which I think is great. We’ve tried not to become just another “American corporate company.” By that I mean, we don’t want to be so bureaucratic. We let all of our people have an opinion and while we work hard, we also like to have fun. For example, American companies normally offer only two weeks vacation a year and in Australia everyone starts out with four weeks. And when our employees go on holiday, we want them to switch their phones off and really go away and spend time with their families and recharge their batteries. What’s the point of having a day off and getting annoyed all day by work-related issues? I’m not saying it doesn’t hap-

pen, because the people here are very passionate, but we don’t encourage it.

You just might get a flood of resumes now.

Well, we’ve won a couple of workplace awards and what really pleases me about the recognition is that they are anonymous, third-party surveys. It’s more meaningful that this is what our team thinks of working here rather than what we think it’s like. And some of our employees have really grown professionally with us. One, for example, started as a receptionist temp, became a full-time receptionist and six months later works in product development because she had a design background. She found a way—she has the right attitude, is willing to learn, is goal-driven and fits our culture. I think she is going to have a great career. I love seeing people given an opportunity like I was and encouraged to move up the corporate ladder. If I can help give that back in some way, it’s very rewarding.

People often paint retail as a dead-end but there are examples where it has been quite the contrary.

Definitely. I had dinner recently with Joe Brennan (vice president shoes for Dillard’s) and he started like I did at 16 in the stockroom of one of their shoe departments. I think there are lots of examples of people working for retail companies who have worked their way up but people just don’t know about them.

People should be proud of that, because I think it inspires others to do the same. •

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LAST WORD

Crowd Sourcing

APP HAPPY

L

Adidas and Nike aim to take the chaos out of sneaker releases with new reservation apps, but will limited-edition kicks be as buzz-worthy without the store drama? By Lyndsay McGregor

sneaker riots and the general dark side of the AST APRIL THE launch of a sneaker game.”

Supreme x Nike collaboration Matt Powell, vice president of analysis of at Supreme’s New York flagship sports and leisure trends at The NPD Group, was canceled after riot police agrees. “The real excitement around releases is were called to contain crowds. the score, not the scrum in the store,” he quips, A few months previous, videos adding, “[Adidas and Nike are] hoping to keep of shoppers brawling inside the hype high, while avoiding the potential for sneaker stores across the country over the bad behavior of those waiting in line.” As Nick Nike Gamma XI release went viral. These are Schonberger, deputy editor at Complex, puts but two of similar scenarios associated with it, “The apps have the potential to set a new limited-edition sneaker releases that, by their standard in customer service and, though they very definition, create desperate demand. won’t alleviate all release-day tensions, they Now Adidas and Nike are hoping their newly will offer more distinct rhyme and reason to launched reservation apps will quell any violimited drops.” lence associated with the hunger to score the The biggest struggle the companies will next must-have pair. Adidas’ is aptly dubbed have to overcome with their apps, according Confirmed, a mobile platform that streamlines to Powell, is ensuring that they don’t crash the system for selling limited-edition sneakunder the heavy traffic on release days like ers. And Nike’s, which debuted in February, online retail sites often do. “Assuming it can is called SNKRS, a one-stop shop that grants handle the traffic, it could be great,” he says. mobile access to its collection of men’s and Isack Fadlon, co-owner of Sportie LA, echoes women’s styles. this sentiment. “Ultimately, it is still the actual Once users download Confirmed to their limited-edition sneaker that is sought after and smartphones, they will receive geo-targeted push this app gives the consumer a new method of notifications when reservations are coming for obtaining it,” he says. sneaker releases in their area. First responders “It doesn’t change the fundamentals of what get to pick out a pair and make a reservation brings energy to the limited-edition trainer to complete the purchase in a nearby Adidas market,” Mak adds. “Premium design and mateor retail partner store. “Until now, the industry rials combined with small-batch distribution standard for reserving hype sneakers has been to pinnacle brick-and-mortar accounts are the social media or lottery-based systems, which key factors that are not affected by the app.” often results in long lines and unclaimed So-called bots, however, are another story. reservations,” says Simon Atkins, Adidas vice While Adidas insists users will be safe from president of brand activation. the hackers that haunted Nike’s Twitter-based Nike’s app offers a similar buy-with-ease sceRSVP system, there’s no guarantee. “As the nario, where styles can be purchased instantly idea behind the app is to level the playing field, within the app—billing, shipping and sizing Top: Nike’s SNKRS app enables limited-edition kicks to be then if the system is somehow compromised, information can also be stored to expedite purchased via smartphones. Bottom: Adidas’ Yeezy Boost Kanye West collab was available on its Confirmed shopping app. the app will simply make life easier for those the process even further. In addition, SNKRS individuals who buy the shoes just to resell offers customization options where customers can set personalization options to receive alerts of upcoming sneaker drops at a significant profit, as opposed to wearing the shoes themselves,” Fadlon and track their purchases. And there’s plenty of sneaker-related content for says. Distribution could prove problematic, too. “If certain limited-edition shoes are only reserved for certain regions or locations, then the concept of perusing, as well.

But by eliminating lines of rabid sneakerheads that camp outside stores fairer distribution gets undercut,” he says, noting that consumers who don’t might Adidas and Nike also sacrifice some of the buzz generated by these download the app will also be precluded from owning a limited-edition pair.

To be sure, these apps are not problem-free solutions. “A lot of people still frenzies? Could the category even lose some cache among sole chasers as the thrill of the hunt is eliminated? Oliver Mak, owner of Boston-based sneaker won’t get what they want and will blame the app,” Mak says. “Before, those boutique Bodega, doesn’t think so. “Not everyone wants to sleep on the street people would just get mad at stores and now they can be mad at the brands waiting to buy kicks,” he says. “The apps give a better tool for the retailer to instead, which is perfect for me. Have you ever had someone’s mom yell at you organize a fairer system for special releases and will help eliminate camp-outs, because you didn’t have her son’s shoes? It blows.” •

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FFaNY | new york hilton suite 1552

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