Footwear Plus | December 2019

DECEMBER 2019

YOU GLOW, GIRL!

Putting Neons Back in the Spotlight

TE X TALK Nancy Richardson on the Evolution of SAS ST YLE HALL OF FAME Cougar: Pillow Island Slipper: Classic THIS JUST IN Totally Tokyo

2019 PLUS AWARDS EXCELLENCE IN DESIGN & RETAIL

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BRAND OF THE YEAR

ATHLETIC LIFESTYLE

WORK BOOTS

COMFORT SPECIALTY

c Vans

c Vans

c Carhartt

c Stout’s Footwear

c Birkenstock

c Puma

c Wolverine

Indianapolis, IN

c Blundstone

c New Balance

c Timberland Pro

c Dr. Martens

c Fila

c Keen Utility

COMPANY OF THE YEAR

WOMEN’S COLLECTION

OUTDOOR LIFESTYLE

c Skechers

c Ron White

c Keen

Akron, OH

c Caleres

c Vionic

c Merrell

c Stan’s Fit for Your Feet

c Authentic Brands Group

c Born

c Oboz

Milwaukee, WI

c Columbia Sportswear

c Birkenstock

c OluKai

WOMEN’S COMFORT

SLIPPERS

c Earth

c Dearfoams

c Naot

c Haflinger

c Taos

c Minnetonka

c Aetrex

c Ugg

c Sperry

MEN’S COMFORT

BEST COLLABS

c Adidas

c Embellish Shoes

c Ecco

c Dr. Martens x Dolls Kill

“Parley”

Chattanooga, TN

c Clarks

“Jadon Hi Max”

c Twisted X

c Shoes on King

“ecoTWX”

Charleston, SC

c Pedestrian Shops

Boulder, CO c Lucky Shoes

CHAIN

c Skechers c Mephisto

BOOTS c Ugg

c Mephisto x Concepts

SUSTAINABILITY c Timberland

“Earthkeepers” “Bionic”

“Apple” c Vans x Opening

Ceremony “Translucent

c Dr. Martens

Slip-ons”

c Blundstone

c Birkenstock x Valentino

c Sorel

“Arizona”

CHILDREN’S c Skechers c Crocs c Vans c Geox

c Nordstrom c DSW c Journeys c Famous Footwear

BOUTIQUE

c Zelda’s Shoe Bar

Portland, OR c The Shoe Hive

Alexandria, VA

D E C E M B E R 2019 FEAT U R E S 12 Charting a Course Nancy Richardson, CEO of San Antonio Shoemakers, on steering the comfort company into the modern era while retaining its timeless values.

By Greg Dutter 18 Aloha State How Island Slipper’s Classic leather sandal became a cult item, smashing price barriers and dress codes in the process. Just don’t call them flip-flops!

By Lauren Parker 20 Pillow Talk The lofty tale of how the iconic Pillow boot gave birth to the Cougar brand and became a defining symbol of Canadian fashion along the way.

By Greg Dutter 28 Bright Lights, Big City Neon news: Designers burst forth in a blaze of ’80s style glory

By Lauren Parker

DEPA RT M ENT S 6 Editor’s Note 8 This Just In 10 Scene & Heard 24 Trend Spotting 25 Brand Focus: Lightspeed 26 What’s Selling 27 A Note to My Younger Self 38 Shoe Salon 40 Last Shot PA G E

28 Flats by Seven All Around, Freak Butik jacket, jumpsuit by A Lot Studio, veiled hat by Rainbow Unicorn Birthday Surprise, Laruicci earrings.

On cover: Liliana neoprene boot, dress

by Fraqair, jacket by Delacruz, ISLYNYC sunglasses.

Photography by Rosaline Shahnavaz/ADB Agency; styling by Julia Morris/Utopia; hair and makeup by Dawn Brocco/Next Artists, fashion editor: Lauren Parker; stylist assistant: Beatrice Goudet; model: Katy Ching/Supreme Model Mgmt.

Caroline Diaco President/Group Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Lauren Parker Executive Editor Emily Beckman Associate Editor Kathy Passero Editor at Large Kirstin Koba Contributing Editor Melodie Jeng Marcy Swingle Contributing Photographers ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Laurie Guptil Production Manager Bruce Sprague Circulation Director Mike Hoff Digital Director WAINSCOT MEDIA Carroll Dowden Chairman Mark Dowden President & CEO Agnes Alves Controller OFFICES ADVERTISING/EDITORIAL

214 W. 39th St., Suite 205 New York, NY 10018 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com CIRCULATION

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FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Wainscot Media, 214 W. 39th St., Suite 205., New York, NY, 10018. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Wainscot Media will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Wainscot Media. Printed in the United States.

4 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2019

E DI TOR’S NOT E

Hindsight Histronics

Woulda, Coulda, Shoulda IT’S DECEMBER, TIME to reflect on and assess the past 12 months before making plans, projections and resolutions for the year ahead. Now is the time when hindsight often comes into focus, shedding light on what went right and what failed to meet expectations.

Hindsight, as they say, is 20/20, but it’s of little consolation when it comes to “What were you thinking?!” epic fails. That’s a cold dish of clarity.

Take exhibit A. Might President Trump be ruing his decision to shake down an even shakier Ukrainian prosecutor about Hunter Biden’s suspect employment at one of that unstable country’s gas firms? Whether it’s an impeachable offense or not, I’ll bet even someone with an ego the size of Trump’s is regretting that phone conversation. I mean, if he woulda just had his minions leak the story—at a time a shaky Joe Biden was teetering atop his primary-leading pedestal—he coulda achieved his desired blow.

In hindsight, it shoulda been obvious. But I’m guessing Biden could also have benefitted from hindsight, because the stench of quid pro quo coming off his son’s gas gig is offending millions of Americans, regardless of whether they view politics through red-, blue- or purple-tinted glasses.

On a more personal epic fail scale, might this fiftysomething weekend warrior have been better off not bike riding the second day of a July heatwave? The ride involved a split-second attempt to avoid another rider (his fault, for the record) and ended in a crash.

Broken bones and being out of commission for the rest of the summer, not to mention painful medical bills, yielded clarity on steroids.

In hindsight, maybe my reflexes were a tad slow. I woulda stopped in time, otherwise. Better still, I coulda just cooled my heels that day and shoulda obeyed the dangerous heat advisory warnings. I

have the arm-in-a-sling vacation photos to forever remind me that sometimes less (exercise) can be a lot healthier.

On a broader industry scale, the recent announcement by Nike that it will stop selling its goods directly on Amazon looks like a case of shoulda never gone there in the first place. For starters, the two-year experiment failed to stem the tide of fake Swoosh merchandise hawked by third-party sellers on Amazon Marketplace.

The fact that Amazon coulda policed it says plenty about how the company views its brand partners. (Think commodities.) Indeed, the failed mega marriage was likely doing damage to Nike’s image in what is ostensibly the world’s largest discount store, increasingly rife with bottom feeders, knockoff private label and flat-out fakes.

Is that any place for the world leader in coveted athletic sport and lifestyle goods? Nah. Hindsight aside, Nike shouldn’t be condemned for giving this marriage a shot. To be fair, the siren song of Amazon was never more seductive than about two years ago—when many in our industry feared there would soon be only one retailer remaining. Nearly all brands (and a swarm of retailers) were in bed with Amazon to varying degrees at the time. So, Nike gets a pass for saying I do, too. The fact that Nike has chosen to stop selling direct on Amazon at a time when the online giant has surpassed Walmart (earlier this year) as the world’s largest retailer is further proof that the move is a long-term decision. Similarly, an increasing number of retailers have stopped selling on Amazon Marketplace for fear it conditions customers to shop there instead of in their stores. Why support a competitor trying to make you obsolete?

(They don’t call them “category killers” for nothing.) The general consensus is that any near-term gains are not worth the longerterm consequences.

As 2019 draws to a close, could pillars of the sharing economy be in the early stages of a tipping point? There’s a dawning realization that a handful of behemoth corporations propped up by others (think Facebook, Amazon, WeWork, Uber) is far from equitable or sustainable as a business model. Nike has long set the pace when it comes to innovation, distribution, sustainability and sourcing. Their latest move could be yet another example. (To be fair, Birkenstock Americas CEO David Kahan started ringing the warning bell on Amazon’s brand-eroding ways and ceased selling direct to the retailer nearly three years ago.) If thousands of wholesalers and retailers follow their lead—realizing what they woulda, coulda, shoulda done instead—it will be hindsight on an epic scale. I guess we’ll find out soon enough.

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

Purveyors of premium European comfort footwear

Tel: (800) 361-3466 - info@kannercorp.net

THIS JUST IN

Tokyo ’tude Gritty, chunky-soled silhouettes get the stomp of approval.

Photography by Angela Momo

8 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2019

WWW.RESTRICTEDSHOES.COM 626.961.8889

FFANY WARRICK HOTEL SUITE 503 DEC. 3-5

Model: KATTY UKHANOVA

SCENE & HEARD

Dearfoams Returns to TV RONALD REAGAN WAS in the White House, neon clothing was de rigueur and Dearfoams, America’s No. 1 slipper brand, was running a national ad campaign on TV. It’s been awhile and trends have come, gone and come back again (think neon), Dearfoams is still the country’s top-selling slippers brand and it has returned to national TV with an ad campaign, “Together in Dearfoams,” airing on the Hallmark Channel Nov. 4-Dec. 19.

The campaign demonstrates Dearfoams’ heartfelt belief in the importance of family, especially during the holidays, while inspiring viewers to celebrate the comfort of home in cozy multi-plaid and buffalo check slippers from the Dearfoams Holiday Family Collection. The ad, running in 15and 30-second formats, illustrates that, at the end of the day, nothing feels better than the comfort of home. People young and old are shown enjoying heart-warming reunions as they cozy up around the holiday table, snuggle under a warm blanket or exchange presents with loved ones—all in cozy yet practical Dearfoams slippers featuring plush memory foam insoles and durable outsoles.

Tricia Bouras, president of Dearfoams, a division of RG Barry, believes the timing, the product and Hallmark Channel (historically the No.

1 network during the holidays) are perfectly aligned. “Not only is the Hallmark Channel the most watched during the holidays, it’s the number one channel for our consumer,” she says. “We know our consumer and it is the perfect fit for us this holiday season.”

As part of the partnership between the two entities, Dearfoams is sponsoring the Hallmark Channel’s third annual Countdown to Christmas Fantasy Game. Each week players select seven movies they think will score the best on-air ratings from Hallmark Channel and Hallmark Movies & Mysteries. Prizes will include cash awards and gift cards to Dearfoams.com. To further bring the campaign to life, Dearfoams has engaged with 30 influencers to share how their families come together this holiday season and invite consumers to do the same by posting photos and videos from their family gatherings at #Dearfoams and #TogetherInDearfoams.

“We have great emotional product that perfectly aligns with our consumer, her focus on family and gifting this holiday season,” Bouras says.

“We hope people everywhere will enjoy creating new holiday memories and special Instagrammable moments.”

A.Leaf ’s CBD Products: No Pain, All Gain THE WORLD IS all abuzz about the broad-ranging benefits of cannabis, which include helping with weight loss, fighting cancer, treating depression and most notably relieving chronic pain. In regard to the latter, three footwear industry veterans (John Ruffo, Mike Berkis and Tanita Gray) know a great source of chronic pain and discomfort stems from foot issues. The trio put two and two together and launched A.Leaf, a cannabis-infused line of ointments and creams that treat and alleviate foot pain.

“As shoepeople, we know the importance of having healthy feet,” says CEO Ruffo, noting the numerous relief properties in cannabinoids naturally align with foot comfort and health. “These products help with all kinds of aches and pains associated with day-to-day wear-and-tear on feet.”

A.Leaf ’s Soothing Cream ($59.95 SRP), for example, is ideal for treating all-over body aches as well as specific foot ailments, like cracked heels and soothing tired feet and reducing overall

10 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2019

stress. Tinctures ($69) work topically for nail bed care and common foot ailments like athlete’s foot, while the roll-on ($69) is a healing rub for achy insteps and balls of the foot. A.Leaf is also rolling out bath and foot sands for holiday ($20) and offers facial masks for $20.

While CBD products are becoming more mainstream, relaying the scientific talking points to retailers is key, Ruffo says. A.leaf salespeople work directly with the chief chemist at A.Leaf ’s manufacturing facility so they can relay accurate information to retailers, such as its Broad Spectrum Hemp Oil’s extraction process eliminated THC entirely. A.Leaf also provides tech reviews and training videos for store associates as well as conducts in-store demos and sampling for consumers.

Beyond the proven benefits of A.Leaf ’s products, Ruffo says it provides a boost for retailers at a time most can use one. “A.Leaf provides retailers with a premium product that will enhance their margins and cash flow, while expanding the in-store shopping experience to a whole new category—the wellness space,” he says, citing The Walking Company and Westlake Shoes as early adopters. Ruffo has high expectations going forward, especially the comfort segment where the demographic leans toward aging Baby Boomers in search of holistic pain relief remedies. “The people who have yet to embrace this product are usually unfamiliar with the healing properties of CBD or legality behind it,” he says. “We welcome the challenge to be transparent about the quality and benefits of our products as well as answering any questions about the CBD industry.”

SCENE & HEARD

Twisted X, Two Ten to the Rescue IN LIGHT OF recent natural disasters that struck California, Texas and the Bahamas, Twisted X partnered with the Two Ten Footwear Foundation’s Share Your Shoes program to donate 14,000 pairs (worth $1.6 million) to support relief efforts of footwear industry employees. Additionally, Twisted X donated blankets made from its ecoTWX material, which is made of recycled water bottles salvaged from oceans and landfills.

“We have a responsibility as humans to help the environment and community we live in,”

says Prasad Reddy, CEO of Twisted X (left).

“We’re a humanitarian-focused brand.”

In addition to helping those in need, Tricia Mahoney, vice president of marketing for Twisted X, says the generosity rubs off on its employees. “Giving back to the larger community is unifying culturally and uplifting for everyone in our office,” she says. “You go home at the end of the day and feel good knowing you were able to help. There’s a lot of pride.”

“Twisted X emphasizes compassion as one of their highest priorities as a company,” says Terri Rawson, chief marketing and development officer for Two Ten. “They’re a perfect example of the care and concern inherent in our footwear community, and we are honored to partner with them.”

Twisted X’s latest charitable initiative is part of a diversified outreach effort. Causes include One Tree Planted, Tough Enough to Wear Pink, Shoes With Purpose, VFW and Snowball Express/22Kill. It coincides with the company’s sustainability efforts regarding materials, packaging and sourcing as well as supporting environmental organizations. And while it may seem like a tall order trying to save the planet, Mahoney believes every little bit Twisted X does is a step in the right direction.

“We’re making great strides and we’ll continue to innovate while anchoring everything back to giving back and doing our part to make the planet a better place,” she says, hoping it encourages others to do the same. “Can you imagine if everyone just started?”

FIT Exhibit: A Real Power Trip THE MUSEUM AT FIT’s new exhibit, “Power Mode: The Force of Fashion,” (Dec. 10-May 9, 2020) takes a timely look at power dressing: military uniforms, suits, status dressing, resistance clothing and sexy fashions. It includes shoe styles spanning from the 1740s to today.

“Against today’s sociopolitical backdrop, I felt it made sense to grapple with questions about the power at play in fashion, both historically and today,” says curator Emma McClendon, adding all power dressing objects carry a multitude of meanings, and often controversial, interpretations.

She cites Chanel’s “Miami Vice” gun heel pump as a visual metaphor of the femme fatale, while gun control advocates said it glamorized gun culture. Similarly, McClendon finds today’s chunky dad sneakers both a potent power symbol and a rebuke of stilettos that peaked earlier this decade. “Right now, flats, particularly sneakers, are the contemporary version of the power pump,” she says.

Other power shoes on display include thigh-high ‘kinky” boots and vertiginous stiletto heels, synonymous with a powerful dominatrix. The show also explores shifting symbols. For example, 18th century-era low-heeled shoes with shimmery buckles were a sign of wealth and status.

Some buckles were even made with diamonds. “Today, bedazzled shoes are available at every price point and no longer convey power,” McClendon says.

Zappos Launches ‘Good’ Platform CONSUMERS INCREASINGLY WANT to buy from brands that are socially responsible, but they often don’t know where to start. Zappos’ new purpose-driven platform, Goods for Good, aims to make that as seamless as possible—like its Goods for Good Holiday Gift Guide, making conscientious gift-giving easy.

The platform, featuring approximately 150 cause-driven brands, is organized into four categories: Vegan (no animal parts); Give Back (community impact product, salebased donations and activism); Sustainably Certified (qualified by an industry organization with at least one standard for environmental or socioeconomic impact); and Organic (composed of sustainable materials).

“Goods for Good has a focus of purpose over profit,” says Anna Copilevitz, project manager of Goods for Good. “We believe purpose-driven brands are the future of retail.”

The platform allows consumers to shop and dive deep into each brand’s respective purpose. Earth Shoes, for example, welcomes the opportunity to tell its story. “It’s an important platform to help us spread the word about the amazing sustainability advances Earth is making, including a new program on the horizon called RecycleMe,” says Katie Dobbs, director of marketing. Starting in 2020 with the help of Goods for Good, Earth will collect shoes (of all brands) to recycle into new Earth shoes.

“We anticipate great reach on this platform, resulting in fewer shoes going into landfills and lots of recyclable shoes,” she says.

2019 december • footwearplusmagazine.com 11

BY

G REG

D U TTER

December 2019

Charting a Course Nancy Richardson, CEO of San Antonio Shoemakers (a.k.a.

SAS), on steering the comfort company into the modern era while retaining its timeless values.

ONE COULD SAY Nancy Richardson has been on a listening tour for seven years. It began the day she took the reins of SAS, the family-owned comfort shoe company based in San Antonio, TX. It’s not that Richardson was completely new to the industry or the company and had to learn everything from scratch. Far from it, in fact. She had not only worked in the shoe biz but at SAS several years prior, managing its finance and accounting department. But upon her return as the first CEO since founders

12 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2019

Terry Armstrong and Lew Hayden launched the company in 1976, Richardson knew she had very big—and beloved—shoes to fill.

She had to earn the trust of the many longtime SAS employees and retail partners while at the same time begin to integrate much-needed modernization initiatives, all without rocking the boat too much. Such a balancing act has been made even more challenging by a turbulent industry landscape.

“I had to balance the strong history of SAS with preparing the company for the future,” Richardson says, noting the company was behind in understanding how technology could enhance product and customer service. “SAS had yet to allow its product to be sold online, its internal systems were antiquated, and even the product line needed a fresh makeover,” she says. “There was a lot of change needed, which is difficult for some people. I had to balance what we did well and make it relevant to how the world was moving forward to ensure that SAS will always be relevant in the market.”

Richardson knew what she was getting into and had a plan for what needed to be done, but there would be unforeseen challenges and surprises. “I was emotionally and intellectually ready for the challenges, but it’s like diving into the deep end of the pool,” she says. “You can see the depth from where you’re standing and you think you have a grasp on what it’s like, but you really don’t know until you feel that rush of water as you plunge in.” Ever the financial planner, Richardson methodically plotted a course of action—and has stayed the course.

“I simply took the challenges on one at a time until it became almost second nature navigating through,” she says. “I think what really kept me steady throughout those early years especially was sticking to the goal of staying true to what

SAS is at the core while also steering it into the future.” Seven years on, Richardson says she’s gained an even deeper appreciation of what the founders built and what SAS means, not only to everyone the company employs, but to all its customers.

What SAS means, according to Richardson, is pride in and respect for the craft of shoemaking.

“The shoes we make are designed to purposely serve the needs of our customers,” she says.

“Our founders would say, ‘If you take care of your people, they will take care of you.’ I’m amazed at how our entire team gives their all every day to make great shoes and take care of our customers.”

It’s helped that Richardson possessed intimate knowledge of the inner workings of SAS. She knew the employees, the products, the finances, the history, the good, the bad and what needed to be done to make the company even better. There

Made in Italy

ITALIANSHOEMAKERS.COM - INFO@ITALIANSHOEMAKERS.COM +1.800.929.3732

was also a built-in trust factor with Richardson that has made the transition in leadership smoother than it would have been for a complete outsider.

“They knew me and I knew them, so aside from my qualifications, I was appointed to the post because the family trusted I would be faithful to the SAS ethos,” she says. “I think understanding what the company and the brand are truly about at their very core enables you to better steer them, whereas those who start as outsiders and come into a company thinking they know it better than all the people who’ve been working there for a long time—and insist on radical change—can create a lot of issues.”

Still, Richardson has gone to great lengths listening to team members from every department to get a more in-depth understanding of what is needed. “It’s about learning how to work together and finding the best path forward,” she says. “SAS has always been and always will be like a family.”

The changes that have been incorporated under Richardson’s watch are, of course, ultimately aimed at benefitting SAS’s extended family—its customers.

“Our evolution is dictated by our accommodating the needs of our customers and the external changes occurring in the industry,” she says. “We’ve been very purposeful with whatever we do.” Again, it’s about finding a balance, in this case between retaining longtime customers and attracting new generations to the brand. “There’s no doubt that the industry landscape has changed from how people shop to how to engender brand loyalty from the new generation,” Richardson says. “What we try to do is find the middle ground from where SAS stands and those changes.” In this digital age, for example, she says SAS has become better attuned to having a strong online presence even as it’s determined to balance that with providing contact between its customers and the physical reality of what it makes.

Translation: Brick-and-mortar stores are just as relevant to SAS’s distribution as ever.

This past year, Richardson reports, SAS has made solid progress in its ongoing efforts to expand, modernize and retain. “Our product selection became stronger than ever as we continue to listen to our customers,” she reports. “We also made great strides in expanding our global presence, strengthening our online presence and navigating the changing retail landscape.” The way Richardson sees it, SAS remains on a course to achieving its ultimate goal: “We’re committed to seeing at least one pair of SAS in everyone’s closet.”

Replacing two beloved founders…that’s not easy for anyone to do.

Being a new leader is never easy, but I had the advantage of already knowing many of the people 14 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2019

working here. I wasn’t a total stranger stepping in where people might be apprehensive about what my intentions were. But I still had to earn their trust and respect. In that regard, I continue to listen, learn and grow. It’s when you think you already know everything that you have a problem.

In what ways might SAS be the same company and what’s the biggest change over your time as CEO? SAS has always maintained its core strengths of handcrafted quality while adapting to every generation it serves, and we’re still doing that now. The most important aspects we remain adhered to are the abiding respect for the brand and the dedication to the craftsmanship of our products, maintaining great customer service as well as an established way of treating our employees like family. Those are core to SAS, and every single person in the company understands and appreciates this. The biggest difference is in how the world has changed and the means with which we are now adapting to those changes to meet our customers’ needs in what they want and how they want to shop.

In what ways is SAS approaching its business differently amid plenty of retail disruption and consolidation?

I must admit the disruption is a challenge throughout many different industries, including ours. I’m not entirely convinced that physical stores will ever completely go away. We all need these physical places of social connection, these communal settings where we gather. For many kinds of industries, it will always be important to both the merchant and the customer that the products are experienced physically. SAS has always relied on our customers to be able to feel the comfort of our shoes—to appreciate and see for themselves the fit and quality. I trust in those truths and know they will prevail. However, it’s the means with which to keep that going that is the challenge, which is why we’ve really tried to ensure that we are accessible to our customers in all the ways they are now shopping. We’re very much dedicated now to having an omni-channel strategy. We have our physical stores and our online presence, and we are creating experiential events, like our recent mobile pop-up in New York this fall in order to maintain our connection to our customers.

How was the mobile pop-up received?

It was really busy. We had a lot of existing SAS customers and lots of people who don’t know anything about us, and that was great. Reaching out to a broader audience was a key goal of the pop-up.

We don’t have a lot of coverage in Manhattan, yet our concept of luxury comfort, offered in a broad range of sizes and widths, is ideal for such a walking

city. Our luxury is practical and functional, and we have a range of sizes and widths that aren’t very easy to find in stores, so the truck let them step in, get fitted and order online. Customers were incentivized with a 20 percent discount on purchases made in the truck as well as the chance to enter the SAS Step into Luxury giveaway of four pairs (one for each season), a $1,200 value. In addition, social media influencers, Eric Wertz and Natalia Levsina, spent time on the truck interacting with customers and posting coverage on their feeds.

OFF THE CUFF and place them on the ground. It’s a form of pollination control.

What are you reading?

Leaving Church by Barbara Brown Taylor.

Who is you most coveted dinner guest?

Steve Wozniak.

What was the last movie you saw?

Darkest Hour.

What is your motto?

Hard work and persistence overcome most obstacles.

What was your firstever paying job?

Detasseling corn. You remove the immature pollen-producing bodies, the tassel, from the tops of corn plants

What is your favorite hometown memory?

I’m from Atchison, KS, and it’s the freedom a small town gives you growing up.

SAS is a dress brand, a comfort brand, a running brand, a Made in USA brand…how would you define SAS? Yes, SAS is all those but ultimately it’s about the integrity of quality. We never have and never will be in the business of making disposable footwear.

Our shoes may serve all those different interests— of looking dressy, being comfortable, being ideal for running, hiking or traveling, proudly made locally. But overall our shoes are made with the utmost care from the materials to the design to the craftsmanship. That’s what we are most proud of.

Just how important is that brand bandwidth in the market today, and are there any risks to it?

Trying to be everything to everyone is tricky business that never ends well. We know our strengths and we

play to them. Those areas work for us because, at the core, that’s what we do well. But there is latitude within that allows us to be relevant across those different categories. We don’t really see this as a kind of diversification but more as an expansion of the brand to service our customers’ needs.

And we aren’t approaching this as a challenge because we really aren’t trying to be everything to everybody at all.

Which market segment offers the biggest growth potential in the U.S., near and long term?

In both near and long term, we feel very strongly about the next generation because we understand that soon it will be their world. We are striving to ensure the future of SAS by understanding what their needs are. From there, those needs become more specific in areas such as the growing awareness for health and fitness, the greater ability for people to travel, the convenience of shopping online. We are working on all those aspects from both near- and long-term perspectives. Online specifically already overrides the specificity of the U.S. market because there are no borders. We’re all becoming more global through the internet and that’s a growth potential no one can ignore.

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December 2019

SAS has always appealed to different geographies because ours is a universal product not determined by cultural constraints.

Some might describe SAS as an older demographic comfort brand. Just how far has it evolved from that definition?

I believe it’s a matter of perception. We genuinely appreciate our older customers, but they certainly didn’t start out becoming SAS customers at an older age. They’ve only been wearing it longer. We aren’t at all disassociating ourselves from them, but we’re also proactively strengthening the perception of our core qualities as a brand that younger people can trust as well. Quality and comfort are not the needs solely of an older generation. If anything, it’s more relevant now because younger people are far more active and lead more hectic lives than previous generations. Even comfort itself is simply a byproduct of the quality and care that is core to SAS—that’s the perception we are communicating to everyone.

In addition to great products, how are you making the brand stand out amid a crowded marketplace?

Each season we devote time and effort to creating

something special for our current customers and to draw interest from new ones. So, we do hold these experiential events such as our recent mobile popup in New York, our participation at the annual Beekman Fall Fest, as well as other ways where we engage directly with the public. It’s not just a way to stand out in a crowded marketplace, but really to forge a stronger connection to our customers and to make it easier for them to find us. It’s also beneficial to hear from them firsthand about their concerns, about what they’re looking for in footwear, about what might suit their needs, etc. These promotions are ways of getting people to know about our products and for us to get to know our customers better.

While much coverage concerning the state of retail has focused on the negative, are there any positives coming out of this correction?

The best-case scenario in any correction is the notion that they prevent the proliferation of inferior goods. But really there are so many other factors at play here like skyrocketing rents, the rush to market, the abundance of disposable goods…those negatives can’t be overlooked either. The positive that will likely, or at least hopefully, emerge is brands being more aware of how they make their

2019-11-12 2:33 PM

products and being more attuned to the needs of their customers instead of simply producing ‘things for people to buy.’

What exactly is your take on the state of shoe retailing in the U.S.? Any tiers that might be better positioned for success?

We’re seeing a lot of changes as many brands scramble to find their footing, no pun intended, across platforms—from the shuttering of once reliable brick-and-mortar shops to the challenges of conducting online business. Amid this it seems there are limitations to the popularity of fast fashion as people seem to be turning back to goods made with artisanal care. There are also pricing issues when it comes to those who produce offshore. There are some corrections going on that we all need to weather through. At SAS, I believe we’re in a better position to do so because we produce locally. But we’re also adjusting to the new realities of the market.

That said I think there are successes to be found in all price points, but those whose businesses aren’t

based predominantly on fleeting trends, those with an already established brand identity and those who can deliver what their customers want, are the ones that will continue to thrive.

collection so that there’s always something new and interesting from SAS at those points of purchase.

We have become better listeners.

What do you think retailers are looking for from brands today?

The core question really is: What are the factors that make a product sell? That’s what retailers want from brands—products that sell. From our perspective, we seek out the answers from the consumers. It’s their needs, lives and tastes that we need to understand and fulfill. It’s often folly to assume you can just create a product and it’s so wonderful that people will just automatically want it.

What might the typical shoe store look like in 10 years?

I’m confident that 10, 20 years or even a century from now, people will still want and need exactly what we deliver: quality and comfort. As far as what the typical shoe store might look like, I imagine there will perhaps be more ways to present our products, whether in new technical ways to custom fit shoes or some more advanced ways of offering more customization options from colors to parts of the shoe.

What are you doing to ensure SAS remains a reliable partner to its retailers?

Much like the end consumer, we make it a priority to understand the specific needs of our retailers whether it’s a regional market, the price points they provide or any other needs that pertain to their stores. For example, we are focused on shortening the response time when it comes to delivering product to market and spreading the rollout of the

One of the trends coming out of this disruption is an increasing number of wholesalers expanding DTC efforts. What’s SAS’s position on that channel going forward and can it coexist peacefully with your retail partners?

We have DTC through our website, but we value our retailers and realize their stores still fill a very important role for SAS. We never undercut the prices online and there can be differences >39

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ISLAND SLIPPER: CLASSIC

ALOHA STATE How the Island Slipper Classic leather sandal became a cult item, smashing price barriers and d r e s s c o d e s a l o n g t h e w a y.

Just don’ t call them flip-flops!

B y L a u re n Pa r k e r

W

Classic design ever since he first landed a job as a Nordstrom shoe stock HEN JOHN CARPENTER debuted clerk shortly after moving from California to Hawaii at age 19. He advanced Island Slipper’s Classic leather sandal in 1989, quickly to department manager, learning the ins and out of retail as well as he wasn’t expecting for it to take the market by the wants and needs of consumers. For example, Carpenter noticed how the storm, and he definitely didn’t think it would store’s buyers seemingly ignored Hawaii’s local shoe manufacturers. He then still be the company’s top seller 30 years later. crossed into wholesale where he went on to earn a degree, of sorts, in shoe He just wanted to offer “yachties” who embraced materials and sourcing working at Scott Hawaii for eight years. He then conleather boat shoes, a la Sperry Top-Siders, a stylnected with Island Slipper, falling in love with the company’s rich 40-year ish, open-toe leather alternative, not to mention history and dedicated local workers. After acquiring the company, Carpenter an upscale, more durable option over flimsy became determined to put a Hawaiian-made shoe on the mainland map—and rubber flip-flops. What Carpenter didn’t realize the Classic (originally available in black or brown leather) at the time was he struck shoe gold, having created what would be the one. would become an everyday staple that would sell year-in “We took a hard look at what made our rubber IS100 men’s and year-out and now totals into the millions of pairs sold. slipper so popular—namely its arch support and heel cup, The Classic revolutionized the thong silhouette in terms of both of which were unique at the time,” Carpenter recalls. The quality, construction and price. key was figuring out how to transition that customer over to Today, the Classic owns a cult-like following, despite a leather version, and that meant designing a new outsole. price points upwards of $100, and comprises 40 percent of The Classic features no rise in the heel, or a zero drop, full Island Slipper’s annual sales. The shoe (slipper by Hawaiarch support, a contoured cup to keep the heel centered ian definition) is quintessentially Aloha State, and not and a raised outside contour to keep the foot properly just because it’s proudly manufactured there. Envision the aligned—all packaged in a non-bulky profile. In addition, requisite Hawaiian “dress code” and it’ll be the colorful the molded rubber outsole creates a durable foundation, Hawaiian aloha shirt, shorts and Island Slipper Classics while detailed stitching on the leather strap adds a stylon foot. As the company’s website states: “Our slippers are ish touch. Overall, the Classic was so much more than the made for life—island life.”

John Carpenter, owner, Island Slipper standard flip-flops of the era.

Surprisingly, Carpenter hadn’t been formerly trained in Carpenter, who had embraced local culture to the fullest shoe design, but it’s like he had been building up to that

18 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2019

sandal and Island Slipper, expanding far beyond that original older “yachtie” target customer.

American retailers on trendspotting tours in Japan noticed the Classic. J.Crew, for example, approached Island Slipper for a collaboration, and it was also picked up by Steven Alan. Along the way, one of the Japanese distributors connected Carpenter with Takashimaya department store and Chiso (the oldest kimono manufacturer in Kyoto, creating designs for the Royal Family since 1555) for a collaboration. Chiso possesses archives of exclusive textile patterns. “The Takashimaya x Tatsumura x Chiso became one of our biggest collaborations, featuring an insole made from kimono material,” Carpenter says. “We have yearly rollouts to this day.”

Overall, collaborations have been an important strategy for the Classic to keep it fresh. To date, Island Slipper has done about 50 collaborations. Many have been home runs.

The Chiso style, for example, blew out of Takashimaya, and it was priced at about $300. J.Crew’s collabs have also been creative and coveted, featuring everything from U.S. Army vintage tent materials to salvaged denim. Meanwhile, a recent Opening Ceremony collab is driving the Classic’s criss-cross slide style’s popularity in Island Slipper stores.

(Slides now comprise 30 percent of Classic sales and are growing steadily.)

Overall, the Classic’s sales have remained strong year after year. “We’ve probably been at peak production for well over 10 to 15 years, maybe longer,” Carpenter says. Japan accounts for 30 percent of sales. Another 30 percent come from Hawaii and the rest on the mainland plus a growing international segment. Island Slipper is opening accounts around the globe in such places as United Arab Emirates, New Zealand, South America and more. It helps that a steady stream of tourists visiting Hawaii year-round often seek out the Classic, looking to appropriate a piece of local culture and shop locally. Upon A HUGE ENDORSEMENT returning home, word spreads far and wide about His name was Konishiki, and he was one of the the cool new sandals they’re sporting. Plus, a little dominant sumo wrestlers during the ’90s. He hailed From top: Island Slipper’s Waikiki flagship, free marketing has never hurts the Classic’s sales. from Hawaii’s west end, making him a local hero. “We working the last at the Hawaiian factory, sumo wrestler Konishiki sporting the Classic.

“After a popular band mentioned Island Slipper at didn’t know it at the time, but he was a huge fan of a pre-concert event at the Royal Hawaiian shopping the Island Slipper Classic,” says Carpenter. center, customers mobbed our 2,000-square-foot After Konishiki was photographed numerous times store. You literally couldn’t get in the door!” Carpenter says. “We don’t pay wearing the sandals, the style quickly became “big in Japan,” where the sport for any publicity like that, but we welcome it.” and its giants are revered. Many of the country’s leading retailers reached out to Island Slipper following the Japanese-Samoan Hawaiian’s non-paid endorsement. “We had half a dozen Japanese distributors approach us about THE PRICE IS RIGHT carrying the line,” Carpenter says. And unlike American stores with their With so many less expensive, forgive us, flip-flops on the market, what makes broad selections, he notes that Japanese retailers are tight curators, which a consumer shell out $100 for the Classic? For starters, it’s the real deal. “Most enhanced the Classic’s exposure. “These retailers will have 100 outlets in people who find our brand have researched it, follow us on Instagram and Japan, and if they carry a leather slipper, it’s the Classic,” he says, noting that seen the trends,” says Carpenter. “They want to be a part of the brand and its a Birkenstock comfort sandal and Teva sport sandal would often round out very authentic story.” the mix, but with very different styles. Fewer brands overall in those stores The price/value relationship also becomes evident when people realize meant increased visibility and cachet for Island Slipper, he notes. how long the Classic lasts compared to much of its flimsy-made competition.

The Japan connection would soon drive hipper, twentysomethings to the Carpenter once had a local fisherman call to report how his sandals >39 extent and picked up its colloquialisms, believed his creation set a new standard for what Hawaiians refered to as slippahs. “Flip-flops are definitely a mainland term,” he says. “Slippers are part of our culture.” (The word ‘slipper’ translates from the Japanese word zori, introduced when Japanese immigrants worked in the Hawaiian sugarcane industry and left their shoes at the front door when they came home.)

Compared to the brand’s original rubber style, the second-generation leather version was more finished and appealing, albeit more expensive.

Twice as much, in fact. The Classic’s price was $60 in 1989, which smashed the glass ceiling for that silhouette.

“When we created the Classic, it required a retail price that the market just hadn’t reached yet,” Carpenter affirms. But thanks to his retail connections, the local Nordstrom picked up the style right away. And with a market awash in cheap rubber flip-flops, the Classic turned the heads of other buyers early on, as well. But it took some time to gain serious traction among consumers. “It was a big hit with retailers because it was unique, but it was a slow build in sales,” he says. One reason was Island Slipper couldn’t afford a national marketing campaign. “We figured we’d just put it out there and let the public decide,” Carpenter says.

Back then, there was no ecommerce channel to help get a shoe off the launch pad; there were just trade shows and reps to get it into stores. (Placement early on in the Sharper Image catalog helped with national exposure and, later on, two flagships in Hawaii helped build brand awareness among locals and tourists.)

“Sales were steady domestically, but we weren’t setting anything on fire,” Carpenter remembers, noting the company still sold more of its rubber styles. “There wasn’t a lot of conversion.” Until, that is, a quarter-ton sumo wrestler stomped into the picture.

2019 december • footwearplusmagazine.com 19

s t y l e h a l l o f fa m e

CO U G A R P I L LOW B O OT

PILLOW TALK The lofty tale of how the iconic boot gave birth to the Cougar brand and became a defining symbol of Canadian fashion along t h e w a y. B y G r e g D u t t e r

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OT ONLY IS the Pillow boot the best-selling style in Cougar Shoes’ 45-year history by a lot, it’s the boot that gave birth to the brand. Since first rolling off the assembly line in 1974, sales are north of 8 million pairs and it’s ranked as the second-most iconic Canadian fashion item in the country’s 150-year history, behind Hudson Bay’s Point striped blanket, according to Canadian Living. But little did anyone dream back then that this brand-less, puffy-looking boot–like a down parka for your feet—would become all that and so much more. Like many iconic shoes that have stood the test of time while thousands of styles come and go each year, the Pillow boot’s long-running success was neither planned nor predicted.

Steve Sedlbauer, president of Cougar Shoes, was a teenager, helping out in his family’s shoe factory in Hamilton, Ontario, when he first came across this funky new boot sample that the product development team was “jacked up about.” But when Sedlbauer’s uncle, in charge of manufacturing, first laid eyes on the boot he was not impressed—at all. “He looked at it and snapped, ‘Are you crazy? You’re going to shut our factory down with the amount of stitching in that boot!’” Sedlbauer recalls Fortunately, fate intervened. It just so happened that the factory was making a casual sneaker, the “Cougar,” that featured a wild cat logo akin to the decal

20 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2019

found on the Ford muscle car. It also just so happened that a two marketing guys from Toronto pitched the owners on a branding concept built around the Cougar name and that new boot as the launch style. Even more fortuitous, Sedlbauer says the marketers somehow convinced his father and uncle to “put their hand in their pockets and spend a fair chunk of money for at the time” to create a commercial featuring an animated “Coug” character as the brand spokesperson and air it exclusively, twice a week, during Hockey Night in Canada.

“The Coug and his girlfriend were carousing on a couch and she thought he was complimenting her looks, but he was really referring to his Cougar Pillow boots,” Sedlbauer says, adding, “In those days, all the shoe buyers were men and they all watched Hockey Night in Canada.”

Cougar and its Pillow boot roared out of the gate. In short order, the factory was pumping out more than 1 million pair a year. “Literally, for the next 10 years, it was a case of how do we keep up,” Sedlbauer says, noting that 90 percent of production was in the tan color in the early years. That’s because the boot replaced two popular tan boot styles at the time—the women’s Frye “Campus” and men’s Kodiak “Magog”—to become the new accessory to the infamous Canadian tuxedo: denim jacket, plaid flannel lumberjack shirt, jeans and tan boots. “I was in high school and the Pillow boot became part of the uniform,” he says. “Every kid wore them with their jeans tucked in with the red tongue lining flapping out. I’m sure Justin Trudeau had a pair and Jim Carey, who grew up in Hamilton, certainly did because everyone one who lived there did.”

Sedlbauer adds, “It wasn’t like today where you have all these tribes and cliques. Back then, everyone wore the same uniform.”

Also unlike today’s 500 channels and streaming services, Sedlbaur credits the targeted TV campaign as instrumental in getting the Pillow boot launched. “In those days, you only had three networks and hockey dominated every Wednesday and Saturday night. It gave the brand instant awareness and credibility,” he says. “Every retailer wanted to try the boots.”

The Pillow boot was definitely a fresh take in terms of its appearance. The puffy insulated upper and red lining served as the calling cards coupled with a unique Crosscut outsole featuring reverse tread patterns. The front treads pointed toward the heel and rear treads pointed to the front of the boot so snow wouldn’t get stuck.

Sedlbauer believes other keys to the Pillow boot’s early success was the comfort aspects plus the fact that it was better suited for winter weather, especially compared to the previous popular styles. “Those boots weren’t great in the snow,” he says. “They weren’t insulated.”

The Pillow boot’s multiple layers of foam lining featured pockets of air not only in the foam but in between it as well, Sedlbauer explains. “Foam is a great insulator, so the boots were warm, practical and comfortable,” he says.

Then there’s the Pillow boot’s aprés ski aesthetic yet is just as wearable away from the resort. “You don’t see too many (Tecnica) Moon boots walking down 5th Avenue,” Sedlbauer offers. “Whereas, you may have bought Pillow boots at a ski resort because you were in 10 inches of snow, but you can still wear them when you get back home. A lot of aprés ski fashion is not as practical.”

Cougar’s Pillow boot is Canada’s second-most iconic fashion item in the country’s 150year history, and its comfort and performance features lie at the core of its long-running success.

LOFTY SALES The Pillow boot’s peak years ran from 1974 to 1984. Sedlbauer recalls his then part-time job of just trying to keep pace with the purchase orders his father would bring home nightly. “I would write them onto our factory order forms, and I could have done that every night of my life it seemed,” he says. “It was like every night the pile got bigger.”

At its peak, production was 10,000 pair a day. It involved satellite factories (up to four locations) featuring one or two conveyors where they didn’t make anything else—and really couldn’t if they had to. “They weren’t shoe factories, they were Pillow boot factories,” Sedlbauer explains. “If you were making about 2,000 pairs of Pillow boots a day and tried to change production to an oxford, the output would drop by half because the workers weren’t trained to make any shoes except those boots.”

Of course, the usual knockoff attempts were made and Cougar’s lawyers chased a few here and there with cease and desist letters. But Sedlbauer says those copycats failed to make inroads into Cougar’s territory. “They never got the traction we had and I think it was due to the attributes of our boot, the branding, the marketing and a really fired up sales team that made it all happen,” he says. Plus, he adds, that all-important ingredient behind many iconic shoe styles: kismet. “There’s the old expression, “I’d rather be lucky than smart,’” Sedlbauer offers. “It’s like the stars aligned, a lot of things were done right and at the right time, and it just became this item across women’s, men’s and kids’.”

The Pillow boot’s success actually stunted Sedlbauer’s early industry learning curve. After he officially joined the family business in 1980, Cougar was dialed in on meeting demand for just that boot. “I joke now that during my first five years in this industry I didn’t learn a whole hell of a lot about ‘business.’ I learned how to spread Pillow boots around to retailers who were clamoring for them to try and keep everybody happy,” he says. At one point, that boot amounted to 90 percent of the company’s total sales. “There was a 2019 december • footwearplusmagazine.com 21

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time we thought it would never end,” Sedlbauer adds. “We couldn’t make enough them; orders would literally run a month late and we would just keep taking orders.”

The luxury of having to fulfill orders on one silhouette in nearly one colorway, year after year, resulted in some bad habits with eventual consequences. Namely, when sales cooled off in the late ’80s thanks, in part, to sportier nylon boots becoming all the rage and Cougar shifting production overseas, there was no plan B in place, really. “It’s marketing 101: When you’re making money is when you can most afford to invest in the future,” Sedlbauer says. “When you’re not making as much money, it’s harder to find funds to invest in the future.” The company’s lean stretch that followed the Pillow boot boom era is when Sedlbauer earned his MBA in shoes. “That’s when I learned how the footwear business and business in general really works,” he says.

Today, for example, the Pillow boot accounts for just 10 percent of Cougar’s total sales. The line is much more diversified, spanning winter boots to summer sandals. Sedlbauer believes the company learned its lesson, although he doesn’t blame his father and uncle for chasing the Pillow boot at full throttle back then. “My father, who was in his 60s at the time, never made money like when he was making 1 million pair of one style year-round,” he says. What’s more, Sedlbauer believes he and the company are better prepared if any such run were to come again. “If I’m fortunate to be around to see another great run, I don’t think we’ll make the same mistake twice, but you never know,” he laughs.

BORN AGAIN The Pillow boot went on hiatus for about 10 years beginning in the early aughts. Its rebirth came in 2013 when Cougar partnered with an Italian designer to create a modern, upscale, limited-edition model. Think the Mini Cooper makeover of the Austin Cooper. It featured better leathers and waterproof linings. Each boot was also individually numbered and came with a certificate of authenticity. Made in Italy, the price came in at $299. (The original model was around $60.).

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ANNUAL Sedlbauer says it was part of an overall effort to clean up Cougar’s distribution and elevate the brand. The company gathered a list of 50 influential retailers across North America and placed the boot in about 40 doors, as well as a handful of retailers who saw it in those stores and wanted to carry it too. The effort was aimed particularly at growing Cougar’s U.S. business. “If we were going to make serious inroads into that market, it wasn’t going to be done by making me-too shoes, and we needed to place the brand in the right stores,” he says. The only catch to the plan was the high price point. It failed to generate enough traction. Many meetings ensued and then, in 2015, management decided to re-introduce the Pillow boot as a near replica of the original. “We used the same lasts, outsoles and materials—everything,” Sedlbauer says. “We used the old logo and even the old size label on the inside. The only difference was it was waterproof.”

More importantly, the boot came in at a more affordable $200.

It was a slow build, at first, including lots of online sales in the U.S. But then, about two years ago, part in parcel with increased marketing for the brand overall, international interest in the Pillow boot spiked.

Sales in Scandinavia, for example, have taken off. In meeting with existing distributors and potential new ones, Sedlbauer discovered they all wanted the Pillow boot to be the iconic style that represents the brand because of its great history. They also wanted Cougar to communicate more strongly its Canadian heritage. “Everyone apparently thinks people in Canada all live in igloos and as Canadian bootmakers for 70 years, they told us we must know what we’re doing and we need to let people know that,” Sedlbauer says.

The success in Europe is helping the Pillow boot penetrate the U.S. market (including Bloomingdale’s this season), not to mention bring it full circle in Canada. “Everyone is getting jacked up about getting behind it again,” Sedlbauer says. “The Pillow boot will be a key focus in our Fall ’20 marketing efforts.” Expect to see an expanded range of materials and colors yet true to the original design as possible. “We think we can broaden the assortment by a few styles and introduce more colors in leathers with great character,” he says.

Collabs are also part of the rebirth recipe. This season Cougar partnered with Sporting Life, an upscale lifestyle chain in Canada celebrating its 40th anniversary. The chain’s signature plaid is the boot’s lining. Get Outside, a boutique on Toronto’s fashionable Queen Street, is another recent collab partner. The traditional gum-color sole was swapped out as part of the “Blackout,” which featured black uppers, laces, hardware and soles.

The boot was an instant sellout and has since become one of the top two selling colorways in the line.

Going forward, Sedlbauer says the Pillow boot and Cougar’s Canadian heritage will serve as lead talking points, albeit in a modern way. Meaning, no (tired) red maple leaf or moose logos. Think the Toronto Raptors’ “We are the North” campaign. Sedlbauer considers that campaign to be a terrific example of Canadian branding in a modern and unexpected way.

The Jurassic Park viewing parties held during the team’s run to the NBA championship last season saw people gather across the country to watch the games and rally around the country’s heritage. “We need to find an original way to achieve the same goal,” he says.

Granted, the world is a much different place today and there are many more uniforms being worn in addition to the Canadian tuxedo. But Sedlbauer believes the Pillow boot has potential to be something special again. In fact, he’s betting his authentic Canadian heritage on it. “We’re bootmakers and our cornerstone is the iconic Pillow boot,” he says. “It’s been Canada’s best kept secret and now Europe and the U.S. are discovering it in a, ‘Where have you been all along?’ sort of way, and Canada is rediscovering it. It’s exciting.” •

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Choosing the Right POS System Lightspeed helps run your entire business efficiently, effortlessly and profitably. By Greg Dutter CASE STUDY: Lightspeed client, Nile Boutique, was in desperate need of LOBALLY, THE FOOTWEAR industry is growing at a data. As soon as Dina Morra took over her parents’ formal attire business, healthy rate. According to Credence Research, the market she realized their inventory management system needed an overhaul—they is expected to expand at a compound annual growth rate of had used only pen and paper! Learning the ins and outs of their daily opera3.1 percent until 2026. Athletic footwear continues to set the tions was tough, and with no easy access to historical sales data, Morra pace, and the Asian Pacific market is on fire. Opportunities wasn’t sure how to scale her new business. She needed a POS that would abound. It’s an excellent time to be in this business, and help her take control of her inventory and that’s despite big-name store make more informed business decisions. closures grabbing recent Since launching Lightspeed, Morra knows headlines. The numbers don’t exactly what her customers are buying lie: this year, for every retailer and has implemented a smarter inventory closing stores, five more are strategy. The data from the POS tells her opening them. which items to focus on so she can make Opening more stores, howmore sales and keep her shelves free from ever, comes with risks. There’s daunting dusty inventory. Her favorite POS feature? fixed overhead costs and the investments Lightspeed’s built-in layaways and special needed to manage inventory and operate an orders. “I don’t ever want a customer to ecommerce platform. With the right POS leave because I don’t have something they’re system, though, that investment becomes interested in,” Morra says. With Lightspeed, less burden and more profit generator. And she never has to. no one manages inventory like Lightspeed.

You can centralize purchasing and save CASE STUDY: Before partnering with time by ordering from integrated catalogs; Lightspeed, Exclucity, a seven-store Canadian sell bundled, serialized or unique items Managing inventory at Exclucity’s stores became much more sneaker and streetwear chain, struggled and easily manage multiple variations; manageable and profitable since installing LIghtspeed’s POS system. keeping track of inventory. Beyond making track unit costs and old inventory; get low sure his staff had access to product informastock alerts and sell into the negatives. On tion detailed enough to impress the most devout sneakerheads, founder Trent average, retailers using Lightspeed increase their revenue by more than Hall needed to track inventory carefully to avoid shrinkage and make sure his 20 percent in their first full year. multi-location business had access to organized, accurate stock data. With Lightspeed enables you to capture and leverage data. While opening a customers trying on sneakers in multiple sizes before making their purchase, new location, launching an online component or expanding your selection the back and forth between the sales floor and the storeroom was becoming are all potential new revenue streams, choosing which one to pursue is a difficult to manage. Since installing Lightspeed, Hall has an overview of all decision you don’t make in the dark. Having data on the inner workings of his locations and is able to organize, monitor and optimize stock in real time. your business is essential. Lightspeed processes and records reams of sales If something isn’t selling in Toronto but is a hit in Montreal, for example, he data, turning the numbers into business intelligence you can act on. For can transfer items and everything is recorded in the point of sale. Hall can example, non-athletic footwear might be the lion’s share of your customers’ also call up a sales report on any of his many brands instantly. “Lightspeed is purchases, but sneaker sales could be on the rise. Nuanced shifts could be actually like your most important employee because it’s managing your entire happening that POS can detect—before you realize it. For example, are your business for you,” Hall says. customers’ tastes shifting to luxury brands? What’s the potential impact of Indeed, Lightspeed POS is an investment that immediately delivers meanadding more ethical brands to your mix? Is price a factor for your customingful returns. If passion is what brings a business to life, retail technology ers? You need to make intelligent decisions about business to be ahead of is what keeps it running. Now is the time to seize your future. What will you the curve on emerging trends. Using Lightspeed opens the door to data to achieve with the right tools? Let Lightspeed guide you there. make those decisions with confidence.

2019 december • footwearplusmagazine.com 25

W H AT ’S SEL LI NG

Boutiques

SHOSHOO Lake Geneva, WI took a few years to figure out the right mix of brands and styles—what worked ESORT TOWNS HAVE their own shopping and what didn’t. rhythm. They swell in the high season with second homeowners usually of a wealthier demographic, Do the tastes of tourists and locals differ? Tourists embrace some of the plus tourists spend freely as they buy for immediate faster trends. More importantly, it has to be timed right. For example, so need. Locals, meanwhile, keep business humming much here centers around the lake in summer, and we do great with water in the off months. Wisconsin’s Lake Geneva is one sport shoes, like Native for kids. There’s also a path around Lake Geneva and such town, located two hours north of Chicago and we sell lots of hiking boots. But it’s not all outdoorsy. Lake Geneva is also a an hour south of Milwaukee. It’s where ShoShoo, wedding destination, so we do sell heels in the summer. now in its fourth year, has found its niche, catering to tourists and locals alike with an eclectic balance And in the long Wisconsin winters? Boots! Blondo is a great waterproof of sporty and fashion styles neatly packed into the 1,000-square-foot space brand for us. Booties trended well this year, but we also carry some higher that was formerly a bridal shop. styles by Mia and Lucky Brand. Anything with waterproof leather or suede Manager/buyer Angela Carlson curates the mix of about 25 brands. The is key, so people can go from work to dinner without changing. opening price point is an $18 Mia sandal on up to an $800 fox hair boot by Pajar Canada. The sweet spot, though, Any new brands added to the mix is $39 to $89. Women make up the this year? We just picked up Sam bulk of sales and overall its 70 perEdelman and Under Armour— cent tourists. Although, a small yet brands that customers recognize dependable men’s and kids’ business from big box stores. That said, we round out sales. “Kids’ shoes are are very selective in any new brand usually impulse buys by tourists, or trends we take on. For example, and we also drive local sales with the animal print trend is big, but in two events a year,” Carlson says, a small space like ours, how many noting Kids’ Day in March kicks leopard shoes can we carry? I don’t off spring featuring new arrivals as want a whole wall of animal print. people are so happy to be getting It’s about learning how to pick the out of boots and into sandals. “We best of the best. have snacks, juice boxes and coloring stations, and depending on the Is showrooming a major issue? date, we tie it into an Easter or St. People have no filter anymore. They’ll Patrick’s Day theme. We also bring Google the brand right in front of in a balloon artist for giant displays Winning format: exposed brick, plush seating and an eclectic selection. you! But if they find something on for that photo opportunity!” that company’s website for less, ShoShoo (pronounced “shoowe’ll match it. That said, we believe we’re unique enough, and we challenge shoo”) is named after a dog that the owners, Thomas and Kathy George, used ourselves to not enable people to do much showrooming. to have. The Georges own three E Street Denim apparel boutiques and two home stores near Lake Geneva. They are seasoned retailers who know the Are you planning any e-commerce sales? We did Shoptiques in the past, art of location, format and, in the case of Carlson, good management. “We’re but weren’t getting the results we wanted. We’re planning to build our own in a great location downtown, alongside a lot of cutesy shops,” Carlson says. ecommerce site down the road a bit. It’s a way to connect with our customers “We get both regular and walk-in traffic.” —Lauren Parker year-round, especially the second home owners. It’s definitely an ask from our customers to shop us all year.

How was business this year? We had a strong 2019—up about 25 percent—mainly because we’ve finally got the right balance of fashion and sport.

Do you have a social media platform of preference? We reach our customers through an equal combination of email (older customers) and younger What are your top-selling brands? No. 1 is Mia. Their sandal with the ones through Instagram. Facebook is for those in the middle. If you’re in your sneaker bottom has been a big hit. They also have great short boots. We also 30s and 40s, you’re probably on all three. do well with Blowfish, particularly their Blumoon sandal. Emu Australia is another great brand, especially in the winter. Sneakers in general have been Where do you see your store in five years? Changing up our mix as needed strong. We sell lots of Superga, namely their white canvas platform sneaker. and responding as quickly as possible. And to have that website up and running!

Steve Madden is also a good brand, especially their Wedgie sneaker in black, taupe, snake and camo.

What’s the best part of your job? Just making someone’s day! For example, not many stores carry 10s or 11s, but it’s nice to be able to say to such a customer, What’s your biggest challenge? Finding the correct mix. A boutique clothing “Let me pull everything I have in an 11 for you.” Just knowing that they’ll be store’s selection is more refined, whereas a shoe store needs more of something opening that box and loving it…that makes my day.” for everyone. It’s important to have both everyday and fashionable styles. It 26 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2019

A N OT E T O M Y Y OU N G E R S E L F

G R E AT A DV E N T U R E T h e s h o e o d y s s e y o f i n d u s t r y v e t e r a n Ts e r i n g Na m g y a l i n c l u d e s a queen, marvelous mentors and exciting retail and wholesale adventures.

DEAR TSERING, You have no idea the adventures that await you!

Right now, you’re just a young girl from Sikkim (a tiny kingdom in the Himalayas) who excels in school and dreams of becoming a diplomat.

But that’s not the life journey that awaits you. You’ll live in America, traveling the world as a footwear executive. You’ll work for some of the world’s greatest retailers and go on to manage leading brands. It’s a career filled with fate, fashion, good fortune and, of course, great shoes! You’ll love it!

It all starts thanks to the Queen of Sikkim, who selects you, one of two female students, to attend Mary Baldwin University, (then) a women’s college in Staunton, VA. The plan is for you to receive a good education and return to help Sikkim. That’s until your homeland is swallowed by India and you decide your economics degree would be put to better use in the U.S., which is where you meet your lifelong partner, Charles. You move to New Orleans for his job, and that’s when your retail career takes flight. Enrolled in the Maison Blanche executive training program, you become as an assistant buyer in housewares. You are swiftly promoted to buyer in small electronics. It’s where you meet Herb Douglas, the executive vice president and first in a string of marvelous mentors. He teaches you the art of negotiation and how to create a winning advertising campaign.

Douglas becomes GMM at Meier & Frank in Portland, OR, and recruits you to be the buyer for the silver department. A year later, you are promoted to women’s footwear buyer, starting your life-long love affair with the shoe industry! You learn to be flexible, multi-task and, above all, work with people. The year is 1981 and the footwear business is booming.

Judy Hofer is president of Meier & Frank, one of the few women leading a department store in those days. Brilliant and charming, she takes an interest in your career. You’re promoted and that’s when you meet Harry Home, DMM of shoes and a legend in the industry. Home, who possesses an amazing talent for spotting trends, teaches you the value of hard work, consumer analysis, keeping your word and treating vendors as partners. Once you make the mistake of referring to vendors as “they.” “It’s not they, it’s us,” Home admonishes, “We’re all in this business together.” You never forget that.

In 1984, you’re recruited by Federated Department Stores. You relocate to Chicago to work for MainStreet, a new concept that will become Kohl’s. You love being on the ground floor of a startup and working for CEO John Eyler, a rising star. It’s where you hone your merchandising skills and learn how to create a business plan. But two Windy City winters take their toll. When a recruiter from May Co. calls,

half in jest you say under one condition: the job must be in California at J.W. Robinson’s, a premier chain the company recently acquired. A week later, you’re offered a position in their footwear department. Your dreams of living in California finally come true!

Unfortunately, the rules of retail have changed. Instead of being first to launch a new item or take a risk, it’s more about the numbers.

When you receive a call from Harry Kubetz, president of El Greco, about joining its Candie’s division as a line builder, you jump at the chance. Charlie Cole (father of Kenneth Cole) is the CEO. Wholesale is where you learn the art of shoemaking, setting you on a sourcing odyssey. You travel to Italy, Spain, Taiwan, China, Korea and Brazil.

For design inspiration, it’s London, Paris, Amsterdam, Geneva, Copenhagen, Berlin, Milan, Montreal, Hong Kong, Tokyo…You’re always packing and unpacking. You’re seldom home, but your wonderful husband supports you unconditionally.

You then receive an offer to manage Chinese Laundry. You’ve always loved the brand and the fact that it’s headquartered in Los Angeles makes it an easy decision. Plus, Bob Goldman, the founder, is famous for spotting emerging trends. In fact, his business acumen and love of product will attract you back to work for his company on three separate occasions spanning 22 years. It’s where you learn that empowerment of managers leads to success.

It’s a team effort.

In between your Chinese Laundry stints you work with incredible leaders, like Consolidated Shoe’s Dick and Billy Carrington, who you will also work for on three different occasions. First, developing Madeline and then as president of Palladium. As president of International Business for Consolidated, you work with leading retailers, like San Marino in France and Next in the U.K. But it’s your six-year stint as president of Pentland USA where you learn all facets of this business. Chairman Stephen Rubin is a brilliant entrepreneur and leader. There, you oversee a roster of diverse brands like Maine Woods, Franco Sarto and Kickers. Most recently as Group President of Chinese Laundry (Chinese Laundry, CL by Laundry, Dirty Laundry, 42 Gold), you put all your past experiences to good use. You’ve come full circle as you prep for your next great industry adventure.

Every job along the way is a privilege and an invaluable learning experience. You make life-long friendships with people around the world. Your life is filled with adventure and reward. I can’t wait for you to get started. Embrace and enjoy every minute, and don’t be afraid to ask for help. You don’t have to do all the heavy lifting. Give credit generously and always be grateful. Good luck!

2019 december • footwearplusmagazine.com 27

Ipanema slides, Donna Zhong dress, hat by Rainbow Unicorn Birthday Surprise, leopard belt bag by Aimee Kestenberg, sunglasses by ISLYNYC, Modern Merch earrings.

29

This page: Toe-loop sandals by Golo, bodysuit by Monosuit, jacket by Camouflaged, Rainbow Unicorn Birthday Surprise headband and earrings.

Opposite page: Mia sandals, Malaika jacket and skirt, hat by Rainbow Unicorn Birthday Surprise, glasses

by Neon Hope, Caraa puffer bag.

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Vince Camuto sandals, Talabaya dress, headband and earrings by Rainbow Unicorn Birthday Surprise, Sondra Roberts Squared bag.

33

This page: Chinese Laundry wedges, top and pants by Eyglรณ, headband and earrings by Rainbow Unicorn Birthday Surprise.Opposite page: Rampage mule, Monosuit jumpsuit, earrings by Modern Merch, neoprene bag by Sondra Roberts Squared.

34

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This page: Sigerson Morrison kitten heel mules, Delacruz dress, metal belt bag by Ettika, necklace

by Laruicci. Opposite page: Booties by AGL, top by Rainbow Unicorn Birthday Surprise, earrings by Laruicci, belt bag by Aimee Kestenberg, vintage skirt.

Hair and makeup by Dawn Brocco/Next Artists, fashion editor: Lauren Parker; stylist assistant: Beatrice Goudet; model: Katy Ching/Supreme Model Mgmt.

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EDITOR’S PICKS

Geox

AGL CALL IT THE sisterhood of shoes. Since the three Guisti sisters—Marianna, Vera and Sara (at left)—have been at the helm of AGL, the family business founded by their grandfather, Piero Guisti, in 1958, it has continued to f lourish, especially in the United States.

Currently, the U.S. represents 40 percent of the company’s sales and the aim is to expand that presence even further.

“Over the next five years, our goal is to grow our presentation in the U.S. by further solidifying partnerships with current accounts and expanding with key new ones,” Vera says, counting Nordstrom as one of AGL’s most important customers. “We hope that the U.S. discovers our brand in a bigger way while we continue to educate about the heritage and the evolution of AGL shoes.”

Initially an artisanal shoe lab in Montegranaro, Italy, AGL first expanded internationally under the guide of their father, Attilio Guisti.

The three sisters picked up where he left off, broadening distribution worldwide as well as ramping up the company’s e-boutique.

Vera is the Artistic Director in charge of communications and has spearheaded the launch of agl.com. Sara is the Commercial Director, in charge of distribution. Marianna heads up design—it’s from her pencils that new collections are born. From idea to the finished product, she collaborates with specialists in both traditional and modern manufacturing techniques, ensuring AGL’s high quality (price range is $300 to $500) of Italian craftsmanship.

Indeed, the success of AGL is a group effort. “We like to achieve results together as a team and are very proud of this,” Vera says.

“Our unique skills and individualities blend together in our work.”

She adds, “All decisions are made together. If we disagree, we keep looking for a common point of view until we find it. So far, it has always worked out!” —Lauren Parker Who is the AGL woman? We consider AGL the perfect 24/7 shoes, designed to guarantee a glove-like fit that is crucial in today’s hectic lifestyle of stylish women.

What are some highlights of the Spring/Summer ’20 collection? The season is an experimental mix of geometric shapes and pops of colors. The best example is Miss Moon, our bi-color pump designed with a new half moon shaped heel. It is a unique take on color blocking.

AGL is not afraid to be bold and chunky. We love playing with shapes and volumes, but AGL shoes must be comfortable, first and foremost. We research extensively and only use the newest and most appropriate materials to allow this.

38 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2019

Bagdley Mischka

Marion Parke

Brunate

PI NK LA DIE S The forever feminine hue is plush, posh and oh, so pretty.

Where do you look for trend inspiration?

We get inspiration from everyday people, above all. We’re always traveling around the world, and we love observing how people dress and express their personalities. To that end, the U.S. market requires a deep study of its customers’ unique needs, tastes and peculiarities. Applying cookie cutter strategies or adapting existing products won’t work. We need to create a strong connection with our customers, offering products designed specifically for them in mind.

For example? We’ve always sold chunky combat boots well in markets around the world, but it didn’t always translate to the U.S. But then we added more feminine constructions and details to relate better to the U.S. customer and the category has become very successful. On the flip side, ballet flats have always been one of our

core categories in the U.S., but they’re not as relevant abroad.

Any other challenges of late that AGL has had to overcome? Lately, the main challenge has been to evolve our sneaker category, which historically is interpreted as very sporty and casual. We wanted to create more feminine, wear-to-work, sophisticated sneakers for the U.S. market, which has ended up working extremely well for us.

What were some of AGL’s top accomplishments in 2019? We embarked on a recent partnership with Goop, which is giving AGL visibility at its flagships in New York and Chicago as well as online.

We did a pop-up store at Galeries Lafayette in Paris. And we also have a new collaboration, still to be launched, with 10 Corso Como Milano. All in all, it’s been a very successful year for AGL!

E D I TO R ’ S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I S S

D E S I G N E R C H AT

s t y l e h a l l o f fa m e ISLAND SLIPPER: CLASSIC

We are very meticulously balancing the needs of our core market while extending ourselves to the next generation who will comprise that core market eventually. continued from page 16 between what we have online to what the stores carry, depending on their own merchandising objectives. Again, we’re very sensitive to accommodating our retailers as much as we can because they are a part of our chain. We always make a point to prioritize their goals as they are part of our goals.

Where do you envision SAS in five years?

We are very meticulously balancing the needs of our core market while extending ourselves to the next generation who will comprise that core market eventually. It’s a delicate and long process of evolving the brand without altering our DNA. In five years, I expect we’ll still be proud of our craftsmanship and dedication to quality, and in most ways the styles will remain timeless. But I also imagine there will have been new advances in technology and some new and fresh designs to suit the taste of the modern consumer.

What do you love most about your job?

For me, it’s two pronged: Working with the great team that we have built across the company and knowing that SAS contributes to people’s everyday lives. I’m most fulfilled when we hear directly back from our customers who are appreciative of the products we make. That we help make their lives more comfortable. One cannot help but feel enormous pride at being a part of that. •

Takashimaya x Tatsumora x Chiso, one of Island Slipper’s many successful Classic collabs.

continued from page 19 lasted so much longer than rubber, Made in China ones. “He had to walk across hardened Hawaiian lava, which can be like walking on shards of glass if you don’t have the right shoes,” Carpenter recalls, adding, “Island Slippers are the work boot of Hawaii.”

It’s safe to say that most customers are not traipsing across sharp lava fields, but they still want their sandals to last longer than, say, a twoweek vacation. For many, this style is their go-to shoe—poolside, changing at the gym, around the house, all summer long, etc. They demand comfort, quality and style. What’s more, they’ve already burned through countless inferior versions. It’s one reason why Carpenter says retailers enjoy watching customers try the Classics on for the first time and often become instant converts.

“We don’t push it, but once people try it on, we don’t receive any price resistance,” says Patrick Nguyen, business partner of The 4th Basement, which has locations in California’s Redondo Beach and Rancho Palos Verde. The 4th Basement’s clientele is 80 percent men, which he feels adds to the Classic’s appeal. Nguyen observes that men tend to be more about the investment, while women are more price sensitive. “Men don’t like shopping, so they’ll pay more for quality if it will last a long time,” he says.

Classics also look like a deliberate fashion choice, whereas rubber flip-flops can look like you left the house disheveled. Then there’s the Classic’s made in U.S.A./Hawaii, factors that serve as two more strong talking points for retailers. “The made in the U.S.A. angle has skyrocketed of late,” says Nguyen, noting how made in China has increasingly nega-

tive connotations. “It’s cool to be patriotic now, and we actively promote the brand’s Hawaiian heritage with customers.” Knowing about local manufacturing also helps justify the higher price, which is increasingly an acceptable tradeoff as shop local gains momentum.

Steve Lee, owner of Cosmotog in Orange County, CA, has carried the Classic for about five years, selling a few hundred pair each season from late spring through summer. He too has witnessed its customer evolve over the years to one who is now seeking higher quality and more longevity in their sandal purchases. “The college kids love the Classic,” says Lee, whose store is near Cal State Fullerton University. “And if they can’t afford them, they grab their parents to buy them. This is Orange County!”

Sales of the Classic today are about 60/40 in favor of men’s. Early on, women helped drive demand by purchasing men’s styles in smaller sizes. Since then, Island Slipper has developed women’s-specific molds and footbeds as well an array of feminine colors and prints. Today, the women’s collection spans leather and suede, leather with ripstop camouflage, brightly colored footbeds and suede straps embossed with pyramid studs.

Today, the Classic is mainly found in independent stores, having moved away from department stores and all their costs and logistical demands, according to Carpenter. “It’s been nice to get away from all that. We’ve evolved to more of a trendy store kind of thing,” he says, giving credit to his son, Matt, and daughter-in-law, Tersha, who joined the company in 2011. They have brought their marketing and social media expertise to the family business. Not long after their arrival, Island Slipper was recognized as one of Hawaii’s 50 Fastest Growing Businesses as well as Best High-end Slipper by Honolulu magazine’s Best of Honolulu survey. Indeed, fans of the Classic are robust, with hundreds leaving five-star reviews on the company’s website while waxing on about having worn them during memorable vacations and endless summers.

Having been with the Classic every step of the way since its inception, is Carpenter at all surprised by its cult status and love letter-like reviews from its legions of fans? “Not at all. I always knew it had potential based on the feedback, and I always had the vision,” he says. “It just took a long time!” • 2019 december • footwearplusmagazine.com 39

LA S T S HO T

Art of the Heel

g n i c n a l Ba Act A bold sphere perched on

a cylindrical heel, this shapely slide

by Frances Valentine is a study in modern minimalism.

Sleek yet structured and playful yet sophisticated, the design dualities meld seamlessly into a work of fine shoe art. —Lauren Parker

40 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2019

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