Footwear Plus Magazine | March 2018

PLUS AWARD WINNERS

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HONORING INDUSTRY ICON BOB CAMPBELL • THIS JUST IN : THE CHUNKY BUNCH

MARCH 2018

POP LIFE Classic Derbys: A Refreshing Alternative to Sneakers

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M A RCH 2 0 1 8 Caroline Diaco President/Group Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor Emily Beckman Assistant Editor Kathy Passero Editor at Large Kirstin Koba Contributing Editor Melodie Jeng Mary Kang Contributing Photographers ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Laurie Guptil Production Manager Bruce Sprague Circulation Director Mike Hoff Digital Director Ana Novikova Office Administration PA G E

9THREADS CORPORATE

40

Xen Zapis Chairman Lee Zapis CEO

DE PA RTM EN TS

F E AT URE S 10 Trend Spotting Heels, cut-outs and shearling, oh my!

23 Profiles in Excellence Duly noted: How the

Key fall boot trends. By Aleda Johnson

2017 Plus Award winners for retail and design excellence delivered in a time of epic

17 What About Bob! Over the course of 60-plus years,

6 Editor’s Note 8 This Just In 50 Shoe Salon

Bob Campbell, CEO of BBC International and recipient of the Plus Award for Lifetime Achievement, has paved the way, led by example and given back as much as

upheaval. By Greg Dutter, Aleda Johnson & Michelle Silver

51 This Just In

40 Down and Derby The classic dad’s shoe in black (white socks recommended) is the new anti-

54 What’s Selling

he’s been given. By Greg Dutter

sneaker statement. By Aleda Johnson

52 Comfort

56 Last Word

On the cover and above: Helm Derbys, white Wilson socks, Asos red flower suit, Perry Ellis shirt, Anderson’s belt, Soof untied bowtie.

Photography

by Jamie Isaia; stylist: Dani Morales; hair and makeup: Christina Nicole Errante; model: William/Fenton Model Mgmt.

Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer Debbie Grim Controller OFFICES ADVERTISING/EDITORIAL

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FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

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E D I TOR ’S NOT E

The Fix Is In

the art of the rebuild THE REBUILD STRATEGY worked for the World Champion Houston Astros. Granted, it took six straight losing seasons—including three consecutive years of 100-plus losses—but the team finally won its first title in its 55-year history in 2017. The New York Yankees entered full-rebuild mode two seasons ago, and many pundits predict the Baby Bombers—one win from the World Series last year—will be this year’s champions. Many say their rebuild got an epic boost when the Miami Marlins went into major rebuild/salary dump mode this winter, shipping current home run king and National League MVP Giancarlo Stanton to the Yanks. The NHL’s New York Rangers and the NFL’s New York Giants and Chicago Bears have also announced full rebuilds recently. Even the NBA’s Cleveland Cavaliers—coming off their first-ever championship in 2016 and an appearance in the Finals last year—went for a fast break rebuild to try and save the current season/ appease their superstar, LeBron James.

Rebuilds in professional sports aren’t anything new. What’s new is the openness of front offices to say they are basically tanking the nearterm in the hope of building a winner down the road. The Rangers even sent a letter to their fan base last month that waved the white flag and stated the “decisions we make going forward will be based on the long-term and not trying to save the season.” What’s even newer is how many fan bases are fully onboard with this lose now and (maybe) win later strategy. It’s worth the suffering, they believe. Fielding teams with prospects is better than having no prospects of winning a championship anytime soon. Losing now is also better than being mired in mediocrity with no hope for parade glory.

The transparent rebuild is in vogue across our industry as well.

Wolverine Worldwide’s much touted “Wolverine Way Forward” is just one example of a complete rebuild of a business model. Dozens of other suppliers—Deckers Brands, Nike and Clarks America, to cite a few—have entered rebuilds over the past few years. Retailers are no exception. DSW, Macy’s and Nordstrom have all publicly gone back to the drawing board to rebuild, reposition and refocus their approach to selling shoes. There’s no shame in admitting that what might have worked once no longer does. Many of the old models are in desperate need of repairs. And epic industry upheaval, fueled by dramatic shifts in consumer shopping habits, has made rebuilding imperative.

The fact is Americans slowed down on shoe purchases last year—only a 1 percent increase on the heels of six straight years of 4.5 percent year-on-year growth, according to the Bureau of Economic Analysis.

What’s more, sales in shoe stores overall declined 1.1 percent for the first 11 months of last year compared to 2016, according to the Census Department’s Annual Retail Trade Survey. Shoppers are also buying fewer pairs overall per year. Some blame the slowdown on Millennials, who favor purchasing experiences rather than stuff. Some say the rise of the sneaker as the everyday shoe has cut out the need for other types of shoe purchases. Others point to Amazon’s growing share of the now $80-billion pie, which is eating into everyone else’s sales. Whatever the culprits, they’re forcing every entity in this business—whether it sells direct to Amazon or sells on its third-party Marketplace or doesn’t do any business with the behemoth—to rethink and rebuild their model to fit in this new world order.

Of course rebuilds don’t only come into play when the situation is bleak. Take Footwear Etc., for example. The 14-store, Californiabased premium comfort chain entered a rebuild last year, after four straight years of double-digit comp gains and doubling the number of doors. When growth slowed to flat last year, it was enough to prompt CEO Andrew Monarch and his team to look inward at what needed tinkering, fixing and complete remodeling. The profile of this year’s Plus Award winner for retail excellence in the Comfort Specialty category (p. 32) is an interesting study in the art of a rebuild—one that is timely, nuanced yet comprehensive, painful at points and, above all, proactive.

In fact, all the 2017 Plus Award winners featured in our Profiles in Excellence section (beginning on p. 23) represent a willingness to rebuild and renew from within in the face of tremendous outside pressures. They are studies in the refusal to rest on one’s laurels, run on fumes or look for excuses. Perhaps no one personifies that approach better than Bob Campbell, CEO of BBC International and this year’s recipient of the Plus Award for Lifetime Achievement (p. 17). Over the course of 60-plus years in the shoe business, spanning retail and wholesale, Campbell has always embraced change. You could say his company has been in perpetual rebuild and renewal mode since it was founded in 1975. Campbell’s career remains a work in progress, with many more chapters to be written. In that sense, the man never really ages. He just rebuilds.

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

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PO R D E N ON E

Purveyors of luxury European comfort footwear

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THIS JUST IN

Funky Chunky Bunch Apparently, father does know best: Chunky/ugly sneakers take Europe by storm.

Photography by Melodie Jeng

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Styles Featured: Earth Drumlin, Talus & Moraine

earthshoes.com

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LUXE FOR LIFE The cozy appeal of shearling never gets tired.

Clockwise, from top: New Balance, Timberland, Sorel, Vionic.

P H OTO G RA P H Y BY TR E VE T T M CC A N D L I SS

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

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BOOTIE CALL Rounding up a range of heel shapes, materials, embellishments and colors.

Clockwise, from top left: Geox, Remonte, Indigo rd., Andre Assous, Rockport.

P H OTO G RA P H Y BY TR E VE T T M CC A N D L I SS

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

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A CUT ABOVE Pe r f o r a t i o n s a n d c u t o u t s p r o v i d e t r a n s i t i o n a l s e a s o n a p p e a l .

Clockwise from top right: J. Reneé, Easy Street, Earth, Restricted.

P H OTO G RA P H Y BY TR E VE T T M CC A N D L I SS

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

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BOBBY

CAMPBELL CONGRATULATIONS

From all of us at BBC Thank you for inspiring us each and every day.

www.bbcint.com

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PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

Lifetime Achievement

W H AT ABOUT BOB!

Over the course of 60-plus-years, Bob Campbell, CEO of BBC International, has pretty much seen and done it all, p a v i n g t h e w a y, l e a d i n g b y e x a m p l e a n d g i v i n g b a c k a s m u c h as he has been given. By Greg Dutter

OB CAMPBELL IS a throwback: a bit brash, blunt and bigger than life. He’s the kind of old-school exec who—still going strong approaching seven decades into this business—always gets the job done. He doesn’t look for excuses, doesn’t wait or expect someone else to do it, doesn’t want any pats on the back and doesn’t believe any job is beneath him. He remains as hard-driving, energetic and excited about the shoe business as on day one when he launched BBC International back in the mid ’70s—mainly because he decided he could design and manufacture kids’ shoes better than anyone else was doing at the time.

It didn’t matter that he had zero experience in wholesale. The man who couldn’t afford college but had quickly worked his way up the retail ranks from stock boy to a top exec at Kinney Shoes believed in himself and saw a niche that could be filled. More importantly, he wasn’t going to let anyone or anything stop him—not having to trail blaze new sourcing regions in distant lands and behind the Iron Curtain. The man will not be denied. He moves mountains. He makes things happen—like the revival of Heelys that many considered dead and buried. He makes things first—like lighted footwear, which even garnered him a cameo in an episode of The Simpsons for an invention Homer called “genius.” He will “never retire.” He’s now a doctor, having recently received an honorary degree from Florida Atlantic University, recognizing his significant business achievements and philanthropic contributions

to the Boca Raton, FL, community. Campbell has chutzpah, charisma and a can-do spirit that should be bottled. Everyone could use a shot of Bob now and then.

“The Energizer Bunny has nothing on Bobby!” says Jim Issler, CEO of H.H. Brown, a longtime friend and colleague. “He keeps going and going and going!” Issler recalls meeting Campbell back in the early ’70s walking the halls of Kinney Shoes in New York where Campbell was a well-known fixture. His success that followed at BBC—now the worldwide leader in kids’ footwear for sourcing, licensing and manufacturing—is no surprise to

Issler. “The success is the result of a partnership between Bob and Don (Wilborn) that’s always complementary,” he says. “They’ve worked hand in hand, sharing some of the same marvelous traits to build what has become a company that’s provided consistent growth and one that’s never been afraid to take on new challenges.” Issler adds, “Bobby’s greatest attributes are bountiful: passionate, compassionate, considerate, competitive, creative…the list goes on and on.”

Just look at him as a footwear executive, says Joe Ouaknine, CEO of Titan Industries and fellow Two Ten Foundation board member. “He started out as a stock boy at Kinney and look where he is now. He didn’t find this on a silver plate. He worked hard. He built his company from the ground up.

He is one of the biggest successes in our industry.”

Beyond that, Ouaknine confirms the other side of Campbell: as successful as he has been over the course of his career, he’s given back boatloads to charities inside and outside the industry along the way. “He’s a prince,” Ouaknine says. “He has a heart of gold. He gives more per pound than anyone in our industry.”

Neal Newman, president of Two Ten, says it’s not an overstatement to say that Campbell is perhaps the single greatest factor to the nearly 80-year-old foundation’s success. “He’s been involved his entire career and has witnessed Two Ten becoming more effective, impactful, bigger, stronger and better able to respond to the social and financial needs of footwear employees,” Newman says. “He is a generous philanthropist who wants to see impact.

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PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

Lifetime Achievement able to set a high standard for Two Ten to achieve.”

Never was that commitment more on display than at Two Ten’s annual fundraising gala and awards dinner last December in New York. That’s when Campbell, rolled onto the stage in a wheelchair

by Ouaknine, told the audience of his near-death experience a couple of months prior that resulted in a partial leg amputation due to an infection.

But this wasn’t a woe-is-me tale. This was vintage Campbell: He urged everyone in attendance to help others who, he said, are much more in need than he is. Two Ten’s mission far outweighed any discomfort or mobility issues he might have had flying from his Florida headquarters. Nothing would stop Campbell from attending Two Ten’s annual dinner—just like he has every year for decades.

Newman says Campbell was “100-percent motivated” to attend the dinner that he and his son, Seth, co-hosted. He wanted to be part of the vibe and encourage people to do more for the industry charity. “Footwear is his blood flow,” Newman says. “He truly cares about the 330,000 people who make footwear their home. He wants their lives to be positive. He wants the best for our industry and the people who work in it.” Newman believes that seeing Campbell on stage that night was the truest testimonial of who the man is. Hundreds of shoepeople sat rapt in attention as Campbell spoke.

“It was a remarkable moment and everyone in the room felt it,” Newman says.

Many, in fact, heeded Campbell’s call to donate that night. Skechers President Michael Greenberg stepped up with a $92,000 donation on the spot to meet last year’s fundraising goal. Steve Madden had earlier donated $250,000 in Campbell’s honor.

In total, $3.2 million was raised, a record for Two Ten. Campbell says the night was special, but with trademark humility, notes, “I’m lucky I’m still here, but people in places like Puerto Rico are not as lucky.

They still have a lot of problems.” Campbell believes the outpouring of donations had nothing to do with sympathy for him. “I believe people donated money because they believe the Two Ten Foundation is a great cause and one that’s very important to me.”

THE SEEDS TO SUCCESS Campbell says growing up poor in Pittsburgh fueled his relentless entrepreneurial drive and philanthropic streak. He shared a bedroom with three sisters while their single mother worked long hours at her parents’ bakery to make ends meet. “She was a great baker and worked her butt off 16 hours a day,” he says. “I’m very lucky because my mother taught us to be very respectful and work hard.” Campbell says he never felt poor. “I always thought we were rich, because we always had food on the table,” he says. “We ate great rye bread.”

Campbell started working in the stockroom of a local Kinney Shoes at age 15. “I hated the stockroom,” he says. “I wanted to be a salesman.” Being told no

didn’t stop him from asking—repeatedly. The store finally caved in and stationed him in the back of the store. “I stood on a stool and urged the customers to come back to me,” he says. He was soon pulling down $35 a week. “I thought, ‘Wow, this is great!’

But my goal in life then became to make $100 a week, and I was fortunate to do that eventually.”

Because college was out of reach financially,

Top to bottom: BBC’s Champion license will debut this fall; new rollouts for Heelys; two shining examples from its lighted shoes collection.

Campbell stuck to doing what he did well: selling and later buying shoes. He moved from one Kinney store to another, rising to assistant manager and then manager. He was transferred to Topeka, KS, followed by stops in New York and Chicago, where he became a regional buyer. He eventually returned to New York, taking a senior executive position at Kinney’s parent company, F.W. Woolworth. But after nearly a decade there, Campbell was searching for a new challenge. “I was bored,” he says. “I had received a tremendous education. I traveled to Asia and Brazil and many other places, but I wasn’t really going to go any higher in that company.”

With the help of a friend and one hire, Campbell made the leap into the kids’ shoes wholesale business in 1975. He traveled to Europe to put a line

together and “just started knocking on doors and selling shoes.” Campbell admits he had “no idea” whether his venture would be successful. “I never thought about it. I never think about losing or defeat,” he says. He started by calling on Meldisco, Kinney, Brown Shoe and Payless ShoeSource, among others. “I called on all the people I didn’t really know, and I got lucky on a couple of items,” he says, admitting his first couple of shoes were “horrible.” But Campbell learned fast and soon scored a couple of big successes. No one, for example, had ever made a kids’ boot sourced in Asia. “I made the first one, and that year we sold a million pairs,” Campbell says. “I’m lucky, but I also have vision.

I don’t claim to be a designer, but I have a lot of vision about what can be done.”

That vision included Campbell’s decision to focus on the kids’ shoe business at first. He had been a women’s shoe buyer but was smart enough to see the challenge that market presented. ‘Everybody was in the women’s business. Why would I want to compete with all those big brands?” he says. “I picked the kids’ business, and today we’re the best.

We sell in 120 countries now.” Campbell doesn’t get into the minutia of corporate strategy. To borrow a phrase, he just does it. It’s the same message he tells his younger employees today. “Give me a reason why, and I say let’s do it,” he says. “Now we’re getting into areas that we’ve never been in before, and that’s adding to our overall volume.”

That’s the abridged version of how BBC became the leading kids’ supplier over the course of four decades. One would be remiss not to mention Campbell’s lighted footwear epiphany, which occurred in the early ’90s and cemented his place in shoe industry lore. Approached in 1991 by a Canadian inventor who was working on a patent for lighted shoes, they came to a licensing agreement.

Campbell then took the idea to his good friend Robert Greenberg, who was CEO of L.A. Gear at the time. Campbell, who made the first L.A. Gear kids’ shoes and helped put Greenberg in business, had made a shoe out of cardboard and stuck a light inside for his presentation. “Bobby didn’t get it,” Campbell says. He then jumped on a plane to South Korea to get some samples made and, when he returned, stopped by L.A. Gear’s offices again, which happened to be under new management.

(Greenberg had resigned and would soon launch Skechers.) The new management “loved” the idea, he says. The partnership went on to sell 10 million pairs of L.A. Lights and has been a major footwear category ever since. “We had a guaranteed patent that was protected for years,” Campbell says, adding, “We’re no longer protected, but we still sell millions of pairs of lighted footwear each year.”

BUILT TO LAST BBC is a kids’ shoe fortress. The current portfolio includes Heelys, Polo, Marvel Comics and Warner

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Congratulations Bobby, You are an Inspiration To us all

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PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

Lifetime Achievement Bros., among others, as well as a huge private label division. In fact, Campbell says there’s not much more growth to be had within the kids’ sector. That’s why, under the leadership of his son Seth, senior vice president of new product, the company is pushing into the adult shoe market in a major way, led by the launch of the Champion license for Fall ’18. “Seth is the one who convinced me that we have to get out of just one market,” he says. “I said, ‘Go do it; that’s your job.’ And he’s done an incredible job. The line came out gorgeous. It’s positioned for a great run.” Ever the salesman, Campbell adds that Champion is going to be huge. “It’s the hottest name in casual apparel right now worldwide,” he says. “From Foot Locker to you name it, people are buying Champion sweatshirts and other items. It’s like a Nike.”

Campbell has a long track record of delivering on his sales hype and endless enthusiasm. BBC has a solid reputation for making well-designed, well-made, up-to-code (no easy task in the kids’ business) shoes that are delivered on time. Then there’s that added ingredient that the company has working in its favor, according to Cliff Sifford, CEO of Shoe Carnival.

“Bob is genuinely a nice guy, so you want to do business with him,” he says, noting the chain has been buying shoes from BBC for 35 years. “Anybody can find a factory and produce shoes, but not everybody is pleasant to do business with.”

Dick Johnson, CEO of Foot Locker, agrees that BBC has the kids’ manufacturing basics down pat. What seals the deal for its decades-long partnership with the company is Campbell’s passion for the business. “He’s absolutely committed to the kids’ business,” Johnson says. “He’s got the whole deal covered—the design element, the distribution network, the sourcing, etc. He’s the complete, one-stop shop in kids’ shoes.” Johnson adds that Campbell’s knowledge stretches to the nitty-gritty details that few, if any, know as well as he does. “Bobby understands how much of the actual build you have to put into those shoes. They don’t need the same cushioning properties, but they’ve got to have the same aesthetic, they’ve got to look good, etc., and he really gets that,” he says.

According to Matt Priest, president of the Footwear Retailers and Distributors of America (FDRA), Campbell basically wrote the book on kids’ footwear compliance. “Bob and his team have been instrumental in leading the charge towards fully implementing a comprehensive, industry-wide approach to footwear physical and chemical safety,” Priest says. “As one of the largest importers of children’s footwear, the entire BBC International team, under Bob’s leadership, has provided key institutional support >55 Moving moment: Seth Campbell and Joe Ouaknine let Bob Campbell have the floor at the Two Ten dinner in New York.

STRAIGHT SHOOTER Bo b Camp be l l ca l l s ’e m like he se e s ’e m.

On philanthropy: I give back because I was poor, and I know what it means to be poor, and I know there are a lot of people who need help.

On marriage: I have a good marriage now—after a couple of previous ones, you learn better.

On Skechers CEO Robert Greenberg: He’s a genius, and I love him dearly. He’s a very good friend and a great competitor—he kicks my ass every day. Skechers is amazing.

On H.H. Brown CEO Jim Issler: He’s a dear friend. He runs the business very strategically. It’s a strong company that knows how to make money. He has also been a great mentor to my son.

On Foot Locker CEO Dick Johnson: We go way back, and I respect what he’s done. He’s just kept growing in his abilities.

On Caleres CEO Diane Sullivan: I’ve known her from her Bass days. She’s done a miraculous job throughout her career. I just have a great respect for what she has achieved.

Years ago, I told her to either buy my company or give me her kids’ business.

On his employees: We have great people. They’re smart, educated and know how to build shoes. I treat them the same as my family. We’re one big family.

On his son and eventual successor: I was tough on him in the beginning. But the last few years he’s grown so much and I’m so proud of him. He’s earned it. He’s worked hard, he’s super bright and he’s doing things I never did. He’s challenging things that I never did. He’s more aggressive than I was at that age. Of course, it’s not his money yet, so that might have something to do with it. (Laughs) On going to work each day: I come in every day—maybe a little later because of my amputation—because it’s still a lot of fun. It’s inspiring to work alongside my team.

On life: I’m a lucky guy. We’ve built a great business, I love what I do and I have five beautiful grandchildren—all girls.

What’s not to love?

On being content: Never.

On retirement: Never. Retirement is death.

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PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

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PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

BRAND OF THE YEAR; SANDALS

BIRKENSTOCK THE BEAT WENT on for Birkenstock in 2017, marking the brand’s fifth straight year of explosive growth. It’s impressive for any brand, and especially one long criticized for failing to capitalize on the many times it cycled back into fashion. No longer, as David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock Americas, reports the brand met all its targets financially and operationally, “far exceeded” expectations on the new initiatives introduced last year and is positioned for continued growth in 2018 and beyond.

“This past year was the first season our closed-toe shoes and boots sold out in every key retailer by the holiday season, our EVA sport sandals sold out almost 100 percent, our success in youth-oriented retail doors showed tremendous stickiness with a demographic that can be volatile, and the consumer buzz generated by our higher brand visibility was exceptional,” Kahan says. All that, plus its much-publicized push back against Amazon’s merchandising and pricing policies (the brand ceased selling direct on the site at the start of last year) and the celebrated debut of the Birkenstock Box, a mobile pop-up trailer that’s customized by each retailer, added to the brand’s snowballing momentum. “This started five years ago as a nice trend, but anyone can experience that,” he adds. “Very few brands have been able to take the trend and turn it into a true brand revolution.”

What’s more, Birkenstock has achieved success in a difficult retail landscape that, outside of a few sneaker brands, has stagnated shoe sales overall.

Kahan chalks part of that up to being one of the few brands—in any consumer category—willing to embrace its DNA. Birkenstock has continued to do what it does best: be Birkenstock. “We’re not trying to reinvent who we are. We’re proud of what Birkenstock represents and we’re doubling down on what makes us unique,” he says. That starts with the brand’s hallmark contoured footbed and unique last shape. “Comfort is the DNA in all we do,” he says. “We won’t change based on the winds of fashion. We have no need to pivot. Consumers are embracing brands that are real. In a world of fake news, it’s the few real things that people can trust and gravitate towards.”

Kahan believes consumers, faced with an abundance of choice, are seeking brands that they love. Price isn’t the only determining factor. Authenticity, quality and exclusivity are key attributes for a growing number of consumers who want to purchase something genuine rather than just more stuff. “Are you more satisfied when you buy something you like or would you rather spend a little more but get something you love?” Kahan asks. He uses the analogy of luxury handbags: A woman who covets a Chanel bag won’t get the same satisfaction from purchasing a lesser-name bag. Same goes for shoes: “If she wants the Gucci slide, there may be dozens of look-alike silhouettes, but there’s only one Gucci bit slide,” he says. Similarly, Kahan believes the truer Birkenstock stays to a high level of brand discipline in terms of positioning and product, the more consumers will value the brand and the more demand will grow that isn’t as dependent on overall market conditions. “We’re managing the brand with a degree of distribution discipline that was never done before,

and we have a global leadership team that will never compromise the brand,” Kahan says, adding, “We think in terms of a 240-year-old company, which is far different from weekly sell-throughs.”

Another key factor driving Birkenstock’s success is its sneaker business model approach, according to Kahan. Just as Nike and Adidas have elevated the fashion cred of sneakers to haute heights, Birkenstock has been following a similar product- and brand-building strategy. “We’re mixing in limited-edition launches that create consumer urgency to purchase, insuring a demand that culminates in a regular-price sale,” he says. “Either you buy it now or it won’t be available in 60 days. This is the energy that, by and large, has been missing in the comfort business.” Kahan adds that the model creates a greater following among younger consumers who are familiar with this approach. “Athletic brands focus far more on product differentiation, innovation and continually exciting the consumer,” he says. “The 18-year-old who goes into a Foot Locker expects to be entertained every 30 days with new concepts and products.”

Indeed, Birkenstock has helped put the cool in comfort with its growing catalog of stylish collabs. It includes limited-edition collections with influential retailers such as Concepts, Corso Como, Colette, Barney’s and Kirna Zabéte. The shoes have blown out of the stores, buoyed Birkenstock’s image and raised the bar on what a comfort brand can be, which is a far cry from the stuffy, staid stereotype. “Most of the broad comfort brands, quite frankly, are transactional shoes,” Kahan says. “Sure, they are comfortable, but there’s no emotional relevance from the brand to the consumer. We’re one of the few brands that is generating consumer demand through a distinct positioning that they understand, and that is good for our retail partners.”

The brand is also pushing forward on new product innovations across the line to stay ahead and relevant. “We’re making Birkenstock a 365-day retail presence and, within two to three years, 25 percent of our business will be in shoes. That’s a guarantee. And it will be purely incremental to our sandals business,” Kahan says. He cites last year’s debut of its first shop-in-shop in Dillard’s as a key step going forward in this brand extension effort. “Dillard’s is the first to create a dedicated area with our fixturing to highlight the brand,” he says. “The initial door saw explosive growth and far exceeded their penetration level within the chain, so we’ll be executing more dedicated areas in Dillard’s doors this spring.”

Kahan says none of Birkenstock’s success would have been possible without its talented team. Over the past 18 months, the division has added veterans Peter Moore as CFO, who joined from Warnaco; Jacqueline Van Dine, a longtime product executive from Deckers Brands and Keen; Sandra Colon as head of sales and most recently with Puma; Marketing Director Scott Radcliffe; and promoted Stephanie Militello to manage department store strategic accounts. Dedicated design positions based in the U.S. have also been added. “We have the team in place to manage our brand across all functions for continued growth and retailer support,” Kahan says, acknowledging Birkenstock Co-CEOs Oliver Reichert and Markus Bensberg for providing guidance and support in helping build a “world-class” team. Kahan believes the best is yet to come from this team. “Last year set the The Birkenstock Box x Barneys, a version foundation for what will be conof its mobile pop-up concept making tinued growth in the years ahead,” customized stops around the world. he says. —Greg Dutter

24 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2018

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THANK YOU TO OUR VALUED BRAND PARTNERS FOR TRUSTING ORTHOLITE AS THE SECRET INSIDE FOR COMFORT AND PERFORMANCE

2017 Plus Awards Winner in the Insole Category

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2/28/18 1:20 PM

PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

NATIONAL CHAIN

SHOE CARNIVAL CLIFF SIFFORD, PRESIDENT and CEO of Shoe Carnival, a 400 or so While not necessarily a new tactic, Sifford believes the add-on sales effort store chain based in Evansville, IN, says it’s a good time of late to be a famis particularly of interest to Millennials as is Shoe Carnival’s overall vibe. “The ily shoe format—particularly one not heavily based in malls. As those white Millennial consumer is always looking for an experience, and we give them elephants continue to bleed traffic amid department store closings that are that,” he says. “Our music is upbeat, we run targeted promotions while they’re dragging down many interior-based formats with them, consumers increasin the store and we have pop-a-shot basketball hoops in all of our stores to ingly have been shopping elsewhere. take a break from shopping or entertain kids. It’s an experience; there aren’t “The guys that operate off the mall, which is primarily the family footwear many shoe stores like ours.” Nor are competitors of similar size. Shoe Carnival channel, all enjoyed a better year, especially back-to-school compared to the stores average about 11,000 square feet, while the nearest competitor averagcompetition in malls,” Sifford says. “The family shoe store is the channel of es around 6,000 square feet. “That extra square footage allows us to include choice today, whether that’s us, Famous Footwear, Rack Room, DSW…We’ve Nike shop-in-shops in many of our stores, workwear shops in blue collar locaall done well of late.” tions and accessory shops,” Sifford says.

In the case of Shoe Carnival, which has a mere 22 mall-based outlets, the Despite significant retail headwinds, Sifford remains bullish on Shoe chain’s business picked up as 2017 wore on. The first Carnival’s prospects, not to mention brick-and-mortar half of the year was flat on comps—the new up amid retailing in general, going forward. It starts with simple the retail upheaval—and the chain followed that with math as only 8 to 10 percent of footwear purchases are solid growth in its all-important back-to-school third currently made online. “Even if total ecommerce sales quarter. Net sales increased 4.7 percent and compaspiked to a 20-percent share, which would be explosive rable store sales were up a healthy 4.4 percent in that growth, that still leaves 80 percent of the business in traperiod. Sifford credits much of the success to the buyditional stores,” he says, adding, “I don’t believe online ing team’s ability to identify key categories and items sales have affected brick-and-mortar shoe stores as it and then owning them. “Our customers already recoghas apparel, electronics and commodity items. Shoes nize us as a place for value, so when you have the best have to fit and feel good, because it they don’t it just categories and items of the season in-depth, they’re not ruins the rest of your day. Our customers like to try on going to be disappointed when they come into one of the shoes and make a purchase in a store.” our stores,” he says. As for key categories, athletic was That said, Sifford still cites Amazon as Shoe Carnival’s tops and running silhouettes set the pace. “Back-toNo. 1 competitor. “They sell just about everything we school was driven by athletic, and Nike, Adidas and do and their bots can determine the best price in the Puma were the key brands that our buyers zeroed in market. They aren’t going to be undersold.” It means, on,” Sifford says. for starters, Shoe Carnival can’t rest on any laurels.

Another key aspect to Shoe Carnival’s success last year Sifford says the chain must meet consumers’ changCliff Sifford, president and CEO, Shoe Carnival wasn’t necessarily about being the lowest priced. “We ing shopping habits and desires. “We have to offer the look at value as mostly convenience,” Sifford says. “We customer a faster, seamless, easier shopping experiknow that when the customer comes into one of our stores, she doesn’t have ence,” he says. “We have to, for example, find ways to effectively reach cusa lot of time.” (Picture a working Millennial mom with kids in tow looking to tomers through their mobile devices.” shop fast for the family.) “She just wants to get her shoe shopping done,” he Such efforts are part of Shoe Carnival’s “holistic approach” to customer relasays. “Value to her is finding exactly what she wants, getting the sale rung up tionships that it introduced this year that makes them the center of attention. and getting out, and I think we do a tremendous job at that.”

The goal is that when a customer walks into a store, all shopping frictions have Such shopping efficiency and reliability, Sifford believes, stacks up against been eliminated, Sifford says. “She doesn’t get a hassle if she has to return shopping online. The return hassles alone are enough to make that more of something and happens to not have a receipt,” he adds. “No one is questiona chore than a pleasure. “You have to deal with the UPS store and you’ve got ing her because we’re able to look up her information and get that refund to to pick out new shoes, wait for those to be delivered and hope those fit okay,” her quickly and seamlessly. Little things like that are what you have to do as he says. “I believe customers like to come into a nice store, touch and try on you move into this new retail environment.” the shoes, and walk out with a purchase. And with Shoe Carnival, they like Sifford also believes fewer, better stores is a part of Shoe Carnival’s holistic, to do it with their family.” customer-centric approach. Over the past two years, the chain has opened 38 Another factor contributing to the success of Shoe Carnival last year stores and closed 35 underperforming ones, and the plan this year is to open involves the chain’s long-term effort to generate add-on sales. It’s helped by approximately three outlets and close between 30 and 35 stores. “We decidthe fact that most Shoe Carnival customers are buyers, not browsers, Sifford ed to take a year off and let this so-called Retail Apocalypse settle down,” he says. Employees, via headset, communicate directly to the corporate office says. “We don’t want to sign long-term leases if the co-tenants might go away.” and learn what specials they can run on the fly. “If an employee sees a cusBesides, less has been more profitable. “As we move out of stores that aren’t tomer in the women’s department, they can run a promotion specific to that driving comps, it’s helped us transfer more business to our stores within the category to them to buy a second or third pair,” he says. “We’ve been doing market and eliminate that loss,” he says. “It’s also made those stores bigger that for 35 years.” destinations.” —G.D. 26 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2018

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2/28/18 1:49 PM

We are honored to be recognized as the recipient of the 2017 Plus Award for Women’s Comfort.

Thank you Footwear Plus, all of our partners and colleagues for your support.

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2/27/18 3:06 PM

PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

SNEAKER BOUTIQUE

CONCEPTS WHILE MANY RETAILERS in 2017 downsized store counts, whittled down pop-ups, but nothing that’s been co-sponsored and curated this way,” he says. selections and played it safe to weather the storm, Concepts continued to do “To be able to partner with a brand of that magnitude is an exciting venture what it has done for more than 20 years: take chances, create memorable for us, and we hope to do more stores like this in the future.” moments and score a few firsts. The Cambridge, MA-based chain celebrated Concepts remains a believer in brick-and-mortar retailing, according to the successful one-year anniversary of its Dubai outpost in the Middle East, Point. It already does a healthy online business and there are plans to expand opened the first-of-its-kind Adidas x Concepts boutique in Boston in the that channel, but the physical level represents the chain’s roots. “Our bricksummer, revealed news of its Shanghai store opening for this summer and, and-mortar stores define who we are and give us our character,” he says. “We’re as usual, delivered an array of exclusive coldestination shops, and we’re not turning our laborations throughout the year that legions back on that format by any means.” of voracious sneakerhead fans snapped up in Last year, that commitment involved seconds. What Retail Apocalypse? efforts to draw more customers into its stores Perhaps most reflective of Concepts’ dynamic beyond the weekend-based sneaker drops. approach to retailing was its collaboration While those events continue to draw huge with Mephisto in July. It’s not exactly the crowds of diehards who love touching the first brand that jumps to mind as a partner merchandise and being part of the scene, for one of the world’s top sneaker boutiques. the challenge has been to generate traffic But Creative Director Deon Point says this in between the drops. “Whether it’s custom was exactly the type of forward-thinking packaging, build-outs, aligning with some approach Concepts and its founder, Tarek brands or celebrity and athlete appearances, Hassan, have built their reputations on. it’s up to us to create those moments,” Point “It was one of the moments last year that says. “We can’t rely on the brands as much to showcased our creative freedom, whereas do that because they seem to increasingly have some of our competitors played it a little their own agenda with direct-to-consumer safe,” Point says. “It’s our responsibility to efforts.” Part of the effort to drive weekday do different than our competitors.” traffic involves making sure the selection The Mephisto x Concepts “Match”—the meets the needs of the entire customer base, brand’s top-selling walking shoe—came in which extends well beyond sneakerheads. “We two vibrant colorways: mint and magenta. have guys in their late 30s and 40s looking “We did a really summer vibe,” Point says. for premium and exclusive product,” Point “It wasn’t for the faint of heart.” The release says. “It’s up to Concepts to make sure all of enjoyed similar success to its other collabs. our customers feel welcome in our stores and More importantly, it enabled Concepts to that we have merchandise that meets their introduce a new brand to core customers and needs.” Last but not least, Point says Concepts to extend its offerings to consumers who are must better understand why consumers shop not seeking the usual athletic shoes—just as online. “Is it convenience? Is it just laziness? it did when it partnered with Birkenstock Is it that people don’t have time to shop the on its Boston clog in orange felt a couple of marketplace like they once used to?” he asks. years ago. Point believes Concepts’ powerful “We’ll continue to research and do our best cool factor has helped to fuel that brand’s to figure out what our niche is.” subsequent success. “Our view of Concepts In the meantime, Point says Concepts will Top to bottom: The Mephisto x Concepts “Match”; inside the as a brand is luxury sport, and Birkenstock continue to push the envelope and stay at first-of-its-kind Adidas x Concepts boutique in Boston. and Mephisto are luxury in their own rights,” least one step ahead of the competition. That’s he says. “There’s a lot of heritage in both the Concepts difference in a nutshell: Rather brands, and when you look at the big scheme of things, it makes sense for than react to market conditions, the chain has stayed ahead of the curve and Concepts.” Point adds, “We’re always planting seeds for what we foresee to be created new markets—just like it did nearly a decade ago when it was the first bigger moments down the line, and this will help cement our partnerships to merchandise luxury brands like Gucci and Balenciaga alongside the likes of with Birkenstock and Mephisto going forward.”

Vans and Nike. That has become the norm across retail—as has the sneaker A partnership already firmly cemented with Adidas got stronger in 2017 with boutique format Concepts is credited with inventing. Beyond that, how many the opening of the first-ever, co-curated Adidas x Concepts store on Boston’s retailers can report expanding their footprint, introducing groundbreaking famed Newbury Street. The 1,200-square-foot gallery space has quickly become concepts and significantly growing sales over the past two years—and expecting a destination for streetwear fans to experience Adidas’s pinnacle product, to do it again in 2018? Concepts can. “We’re always planning ahead, trying to including an array of its coveted sneaker and apparel collaborations—among figure out where the market is going, to what extent we play in it and finding them, Yeezy, Stella McCartney, Rick Owens and Raf Simmons. Point says the ways that make sense for customers to come shop with us” Point says. “At the response has been “amazing.” What’s more, the opening represents another same time, we also have a game plan that doesn’t need to conform to anything example of Concepts breaking new ground. “Before, it was shop-in-shops and that is going on currently in fashion or otherwise.” —G.D. 28 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2018

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2/28/18 1:51 PM

REDUCED COMPRESSION

GREATER TENSILE STRENGTH

LIGHTER WEIGHT

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PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

ATHLETIC LIFESTYLE; BEST SNEAKER COLLAB

ADIDAS ADIDAS WAS FEELING mighty “Happy” again by the end of 2017. The tion with a campaign that encouraged the world to let their voices be heard powerhouse brand continued to plow ahead on growth and overall brand by delivering personal messages that inspire change through love,” Naderiawareness, Retail Apocalypse be damned. In fact, since the relaunch of the Nejad says, adding, “Pharrell is an influential creator in so many ways, and Stan Smith in 2014, the brand’s broad lifestyle mix has been at the forefront his ideas and inspirations permeate the culture, resulting in true connection of the athleisure movement with a range of spot-on casual athletic styles, with consumers.” While not a huge contributor to Adidas’ overall bottom line, exclusive collaborations and more rebirths of its classic silhouettes that have Powell concurs that collaborations like Williams’ delivers on increased brand landed onto the feet of influencers, celebrities and millions of followers and awareness. “Pharrell brings fresh point of view, use of color, sense of humor fans worldwide. and compassion in what he does,” he says.

The Stan Smith—first launched in 1971—conWhile music has been a part of Adidas’ ethos since tinued to be a key silhouette in 2017, according its partnership with Run DMC, Naderi-Nejad believes to Pascha Naderi-Nejad, senior brand director of sport style and music go hand-in-hand today. “These Adidas Originals North America. Additional top artists bring their creative vision to the brand in an sellers in 2017 included the Superstar, Crazy, EQT organic, relatable way resulting in exciting projects and Campus—franchises that reference the brand’s that continue to shape the industry,” he says, adding history. Newcomers like the Prophere and I-5923, that partnerships with musicians Kanye West and which feature a mélange of basketball, tennis Pusha T also continued to fuel Adidas’ street cred and soccer influences incorporated into futuristic last year. Toss in the collaborations with fashion designs, were also popular items. “While Adidas designers Raf Simons, Stella McCartney and Rick Originals is comprised of lifestyle collections and Owens, and it’s easy to see how the brand is expandproducts, everything we do and design is rooted in ing its demographic at both ends of the spectrum sport and ultimately inspired it,” Naderi-Nejad says. and with both genders.

“With these two elements in mind, we continuously Indeed, putting the customer first was the core of challenge ourselves to examine our heritage and Adidas’ marketing in 2017. The company not only our storied place in sport culture and how we can aims to create great product, but to always introduce best translate that in modern ways.” new experiences to the consumer. “We’re always Adidas decision to zero in on the sportswear as reimagining innovative ways for consumers to shop fashion and not necessarily performance has resoand engage with us, so we can continue to develop nated with consumers, according to Matt Powell, and deepen our connection with them,” Naderi-Nejad vice president and senior industry advisor for The says. It’s a focus that, Powell says, goes well beyond NPD Group. “We’re in a cycle where performance A-listers and trendsetters. “Adidas woke up to how footwear is not driving the market, and it’s more important midmarket is to the industry,” he says. about sportswear products that draw their aesthetic “They’re one of the few brands that finally figured Top to bottom: The classic Superstar and from performance,” he says. “For stylish shoes that out that the more moderate consumer has taste and the Tennis Hu x Pharrell Williams. feel and look like sneakers, Adidas is on top of sophistication as well, and it’s working. They’re the the game.” In fact, Powell says 2017 was the first one hot brand that’s moved the needle for retailers.” time in memory that Adidas had two shoes (Superstar and Tubular Shadow) Adidas expects to pick up where it left off this year, despite the uncertainty of ranked in the retail tracking agency’s Top 10 selling styles for the year. What’s the retail marketplace. CEO Kasper Rorsted recently predicted another strong more, Powell reports the brand overtook Jordan Brand as the No. 2 brand year of growth in the U.S. for this year across all retail channels, especially for sports footwear. online. Digital sales in the U.S. during the first nine months of 2017 spiked Keeping Adidas at the top of the sneaker game is the brand’s numerous more than 60 percent, and the exec reiterated the company’s goal of reaching collaborations last year, with Adidas Originals = Pharrell Williams a standout. a 20-percent market share here. Powell, for one, believes that Adidas has more Perfectly mixing sport and lifestyle, Williams raised his game by centering upside, especially if it sticks with its winning formula. “If you go back a couple on the importance of positivity, even naming the signature style the Hu, of years, that’s when Adidas decided to focus on what U.S. consumer wanted based on the first syllable of “human.” In the age of emotional marketing to buy,” he says. “They moved a couple hundred employees from Germany campaigns, the “Happy” songwriter’s thoughtful approach to design with a to its Portland offices, changed their business practices to leverage that and, big picture message resonated with consumers. “He merged the worlds of after years of having European-centric model, their focus on this market is sport, culture and lifestyle together by creating an Adidas Tennis Hu collecshowing great dividends.” —Aleda Johnson 30 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2018

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INSOLES

ORTHOLITE

FITTINGLY, THE FIRST-EVER Plus Award for design excellence in the Insoles category was won by the industry’s leading supplier, OrthoLite. The company’s insoles, led by its exclusive cell foam technology, are found in more than 500 million shoes across all categories each year. Brand partners include Nike, Adidas, Clarks, Converse, Reebok, Kenneth Cole, New Balance, Timberland, Tory Burch, Johnstone & Murphy, Wolverine, Rockport, Ecco and Vans. In addition, OrthoLite produces its own collection of over-the-counter insoles as consumers increasingly understand the value of customized inserts for wellness and comfort. OrthoLite is even the official insole of the New York Yankees and its partnerships with Girls on the Run and the American Trail Running Association further push the importance of support and cushioning as well as OrthoLite’s brand awareness.

CEO Glenn Barrett reports 2017 saw strong gains in both OrthoLite’s licensed and branded divisions. “Overall, 2017 was amazing and another growth year for our company,” he says. “Our more than 250 brand partners are an integral part of our success is a stamp of approval that we cherish.”

As a vertically integrated manufacturer and chemical systems-house, Barrett notes OrthoLite’s ability to tailor each of its innovations to meet the specific needs of both brand partners and consumer-driven trends is a key to its success. Barrett adds that the broad range of partnerships across all categories also insulates the company from market share swings that can negatively impact niche-oriented insole suppliers. “As an integral part of the comfort and performance DNA of each shoe, we’re able to help our brand partners navigate shifts in consumer needs or demand,” he says. “OrthoLite also has the unique ability to customize formulations so brand partners can create their own comfort stories that are unique to their brand and/or category.”

Barrett credits the growing awareness among consumers for helping increase sales of OrthoLite insoles of late, as well. What used to be viewed an

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afterthought in footwear is becoming a centerpiece of the selling equation. Consumers are learning more of the huge difference the right (often customized) pairs of insoles can make. It can be the difference between pain and misery and being able to walk around all day without any discomfort. Retailers are also recognizing the add-on sales potential overthe-counter insoles offer. As margins on shoes get tighter, sales of insoles can be the difference-maker to coming out on the right side of the weekly ledger.

“With step-in comfort being so important today at retail, it’s vital to understand that the comfort attributes as well as the fit delivered by OrthoLite will remain for the lifetime of the shoe,” Barrett says, noting that the insole is the most important comfort component of a shoe. “This drives value, sell through and consumer loyalty to the brands we work closely with,” he adds.

Barrett cites OrthoLite’s focus on sustainability in both manufacturing and technology as another attractive selling point, especially for Millennials.

Since the company was founded 20 years ago, every formulation OrthoLite develops has included at least five percent recycled rubber, which also provides its signature speckled look. That percentage adds up to more than 300 metric tons of recycled rubber annually, helping to reduce OrthoLite’s carbon footprint.

As for notable product introduction in 2017, OrthoLite launched the XSeries, an expansion of its X40 high-rebound technology featuring 40 percent elasticity. In addition, the X25 and X35 high-rebound solutions enable brand partners to tier their performance story while providing consumers with high-rebound options across multiple categories and price points. Also new in 2017 was the EcoLT collection, which combines six percent bio-oil content made from OrthoLite’s proprietary castor oil formulation in addition to the existing five percent recycled rubber content in every insole. An added bonus of these product breakthroughs was OrthoLite’s ability to seamlessly integrate them in its existing stable of product offerings. “These new innovations were rolled out at cost neutral to our partners, enabling them to expand their sustainability story into new prices or categories,” Barrett says, adding that it’s another example of how the company leads by example. “OrthoLite has stood out as both a category creator and a premium leader, and our brand is recognized for both quality and performance,” he says. “Our goal is to over-deliver on our promise to provide the most comfortable and best-performing insoles in the world, providing a cooler, drier, healthier and more comfortable interior of the shoe.” —A.J.

BOB CAMPBELL Lifetime Achievement Plus Award Recipient

We’re in awe of your accomplishments and your dedication to service.

Thank you for all you’ve done!

XOXO,

2/28/18 1:55 PM

PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

COMFORT SPECIALTY

FOOTWEAR ETC. IN A YEAR where flat was the new up across retail, Footwear Etc. was one Monarch says a similar change-in-pitchers scenario played out with its of the few fortunate enough to be flat. The company’s ability to sustain sales head buyer last year. After a solid six-year run that brought in many new comes on the heels of four straight years of solid comp store gains (upwards brands—at lower and higher price points—as well as chasing items successof 19 percent) and overall growth that saw expansion of the California-based fully at times (and getting stuck with inventory at other times), he believed chain from seven doors to 14 by the end of 2017. President and CEO Andrew a change in overall philosophy was needed. Specifically, a less-is-more, less Monarch says the tough slog last year prompted the chain to refocus, retrench risky approach was in order. “During those years we were growing rapidly, and renew—and rediscover much of what fueled its success in the preceding we had added a lot of brands to our assortment based on the belief that it few years. would make us fun and fresh,” he says. “But we found that in getting away “Staying true to our core has become extremely from our core, we couldn’t be in stock in important in this fluid retail environment,” everything and we also strayed from our roots.”

Monarch says. “We’re focusing on being in Instead of trying to build new brands, they stock with our best brands and continuing to decided to go deeper with more established provide a full-service sales experience at the brands. “We’re not in the brand-building fitting stool. We’re also constantly monitoring business,” Monarch says. “We do better when our inventory, selection, turn and margin—every our customers may have already heard of decision is critical, and we don’t have room to the brand. There’s a cache to a Vionic or an make mistakes.”

Ecco, and then it’s up to us to take them to Efforts included plenty of behind-the-scenes the next level.” upgrades, led by the decision to decentralize Another area that received plenty of tinkering shipping and receiving. That was a big deal, in 2017 was Footwear Etc.’s online strategy. It according to Monarch. For the past 30-plus continues to be about finding the right balyears, it had been done through a centralized ance between bricks and clicks, Monarch says. warehouse. “The change enables our stores to Back in 2009, the sales split was about even receive merchandise directly from vendors and the shift since has been more in favor of and, in turn, customers can get shoes faster,” stores. “When it got to 50-50, on the one hand he says, noting it’s cut out a day or two on overall numbers looked great, but we had to delivery times. “Now if we get an order at scale back because we weren’t really making The Footwear Etc. merchandise mix in 2017 went narrower and 3:15 in the afternoon, it can go out within 10 much of a profit online,” he says. “Now we’re deeper on established premium comfort brands. minutes directly to the customer,” he adds. almost two-thirds stores. We like that ratio, Additional backroom upgrades at Footwear which is better for our bottom line.”

Etc. last year included installation of a new software system with integrated The fact is plenty of Footwear Etc. customers still like to touch and feel POS, CRM and inventory management that is cloud-based and on iPads; before buying. “Our customers will pay full price for brands like Naot, segmenting customer database and marketing to deliver a relevant message to Pikolinos and Mephisto if they are serviced well and if it’s in stock—that’s customers that is in line with what they buy, at which store and when they like a strong value proposition,” Monarch says. “They want someone to provide to shop; and participation in cause-related marketing events, like donations service, educate and engage. You can’t just be transactional; that’s when online in partnership with Naot to victims of the state’s devastating wildfires last fall. plays well.” This also goes for an increasing number of Millennials who are Several key management changes were also made, including the replaceshopping Footwear Etc., Monarch reports. “We’re seeing twentysomethings ment of Footwear Etc.’s head buyer and a store manager. While such personsitting down, getting measured and buying brands like Birkenstocks and nel changes are never easy, Monarch says sometimes it’s just necessary. The Ugg,” he says. “On one hand, it’s a new experience for younger customers manager change, for example, came after sales at that store had been down for and it’s renaissance retail for older ones.” about six months. Monarch studied everything—selection, location, staffing, Tough overall market conditions aside, Monarch remains a firm believer traffic—and finally looked at the culture. “Maybe the traffic was down because in brick-and-mortar retailing and in the continued success of Footwear of the service we had been giving,” he says, likening it to the seventh inning Etc. He chalks last year up as a good learning experience. “Even after all when a change in pitchers is needed. “We needed to change the energy in the these years, we’re always learning,” he says, adding that expansion is on the store.” It turned out to be the right call. Within 30 days, the store’s sales began agenda. Last year, the company acquired Walkabout Footwear in Walnut trending up. Monarch, however, saw the potential on day two. That’s when Creek, and the plan is to add a couple of stores to go with the chain’s recent he witnessed the new manager, a transfer from one of Footwear Etc.’s newer expansion into the San Diego market. “We like to have three- or four-store locations, fitting a customer in his minivan! “That’s when the customer’s wife pods so we can share labor and inventory,” Monarch says. “Next year, we’ll decided to buy a pair, also,” Monarch says, adding, “I believe the service we probably add second and third locations because we think there’s growth give will perpetuate the traffic we get.” potential in Southern California.” —G.D. 32 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2018

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OUTDOOR

TIMBERLAND THAT ICONIC YELLOW boot, style 10061, has been the cornerstone of Timberland’s footwear business, and last year was no exception. The waterproof style was the focus of its “We Built It. You Made It” multi-media campaign, celebrating the people who helped build it, according to Tracy Smith, vice president and general manager of Timberland North America.

It also continued to get fun makeovers to keep the silhouette fresh, like the women’s luxurious velvet details in seasonal holiday colors.

Timberland was also inspired to relaunch its 1978 Hiker and original World Hiker styles last year. The company collaborated with influential brands such as Supreme, Off-White and OVO, resulting in “some of the most sought-after boots of the year,” Smith declares. Another unique partnership in 2017 revolved around its eco-friendly “Earthkeepers” collection.

Together with Thread, a Certified B Corporation that transforms plastic bottles from the streets of Haiti into fabric, Timberland introduced a collection of footwear, apparel and accessories. But 2017 was not just about retro styling or being green. “Key technologies like SensorFlex showcased a creative approach to flexibility,” Smith says, adding that the design team integrated across the line. “From sport-inspired styles with athletic white outsoles to rugged boots and casual footwear, SensorFlex provides the ultimate in versatility,” he adds. Timberland produced a series of videos with professional dancers to showcase the lightweight flexibility of the select styles. “The national campaign created dramatic and powerful imagery that came to life in [magazines such as] GQ, on trains and buses, and through robust digital media activations, including interactive mobile ads that invited consumers to test the flexibility of the technology on their smartphone,” Smith says.

Last spring, Timberland also debuted a revolutionary lightweight outsole technology called the Aerocore energy system. “Crafted with boot toughness, this aerodynamic system blends athletic-inspired design that cushions and energizes so you can be lighter and faster on your feet,” Smith says.

The FlyRoam collection with Aerocore resonated among men’s, women’s and kids’ for its rugged appeal blended with a casual, street style, he adds.

“Consumers also loved the statement-making men’s Britton Hill collection with SensorFlex and its timeless leather uppers and incredible comfort,” Smith adds. Last year was also the year of the woman for Timberland. The brand continued to introduce more feminine silhouettes that are beautiful, timeless and distinctively Timberland, yet with a modern, classic and season-less look, according to Smith.

Overall, Smith says 2017 was a year that saw Timberland give customers what they want and need. “In a shaky retail climate, consumers value brands of substance and look to brands they can trust,” he says. “We’re fortunate that Timberland’s heritage of authenticity and innovation delivers on just that.” —Michele Silver

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swims.com

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PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

BOOTS

ONLINE

UGG

ZAPPOS

UGG, A DIVISION of Deckers Brands, got its mojo back as 2017 wore on. Coming off a bit of a lull, the brand experienced a 4.3 percent net sales gain in the third quarter (ended Dec. 31, 2017). CEO Dave Powers cited “refined product categories, enhanced consumer messaging and wholesale account optimization in much stronger full-price selling across the portfolio during the holiday season” for contributing to the success. Plus, it got cold early across much of the United States this past winter, and that helped the sheepskin-based brand. What’s more, wool as a material statement is trending strong.

Think Allbirds and think Ugg, the brand that made the material a footwear staple.

Favorable macro trends and weather aside, Ugg pushed the envelope last year with exciting collaborations, product upgrades, a new spring marketing campaign and a store opening at The Oculus in the World Trade Center. “It was a great year for Ugg,” says Andrea O’Donnell, president, Fashion Lifestyle Brands for Deckers.

“We grew our business across all genders and in many footwear categories outside of boots.

Sales of our lifestyle product—apparel, outerwear, handbags and socks—also increased 50 percent on the year. Our boot business really kicked in toward the tail end of 2017, when the weather got colder and contributed to our best third quarter sales ever.”

Here, O’Donnell discusses further why Ugg clicked with consumers in 2017. —M.S. What were product highlights last year?

Last fall, we launched designer collaborations with Jeremy Scott in women’s, men’s and kids’ and 3.1 Phillip Lim for men. Both designers

put their own spin on our iconic Classic boot. Jeremy applied a custom flame design inspired by old Hollywood hot rods and Phillip featured a functional zipper on some styles, which was taken directly from his ready-to-wear collection. For our women’s core collection, we introduced our Classic Waterproof Collection.

Consumers’ favorite silhouette offers a new level of functionality. We’re always finding ways to reinvent and innovate through design in our Classic boot and slipper categories. We’ll continue to create beautiful styles that are distinctively Ugg. In men’s, boot category highlights were our Neumel sheepskin chukka boot and Harkley, the hi-top iteration of the Neumel. Combined, these two styles contributed a 44-percent sales increase in our men’s line. We also introduced waterproof iterations of both styles, which contributed a 16-percent increase to overall sales. These styles are an opportunity to grow our business domestically and internationally.

Younger male consumers are responding on their own to Ugg of late. The styles performing best have been in the line for years, and the consumer is discovering and making them their own in a very cool way. We see unlimited potential in our men’s classic and slipper categories, as well.

What were some other hot items that debuted last year? Our Gita boot, an iteration of the Classic adorned with Toscana fur pompoms that targeted a younger consumer, performed very well. Also, our core sheepskin slippers Tasman and Coquette in dark olive and garnet, respectively, did exceptionally well. The indoor-outdoor slipper trend is very big, and these styles thrive because of it. Additionally, our tried-and-true Butte cold-weather boot was a standout last season.

Despite a tough year industry-wide, why did Ugg rise above it? Our point of difference is that there isn’t another brand like Ugg. Our heritage and quality make us one-of-a-kind.

Ugg is a staple of consumers’ wardrobes.

ZAPPOS, THE ONLY digital dealer to ever win the Plus Award in this category, did so once again as the industry took note of its unparalleled selection and legendary service. “We view everything through the eye of a vendor,” says Joanna Hass, public relations director for Zappos. “They might not be our frontline customers, but we work hard to treat them like one. Every interaction we have with vendors is an opportunity for us to reinforce our commitment to service.”

In 2017, Zappos evolved its customer-centric site with the introduction of two new features, The Ones for customers’ favorite sneakers such as iconic styles from Adidas, Converse and Keds; and Running, which breaks down the category into four subsections of Stability, Neutral, Cross Training and Best Sellers. “We’re always trying to create the best customer experience possible and one thing we found in the last year was our ability to talk to customers through various pages on our site,” Hass says. “We thought about those verticals through the eyes of the customer and created a destination that offered content, expert advice and other things that spoke to our customer as a whole person.” The strategy will be a key component going forward. “When you start bringing the customer into every decision you make, it pays off,” she says. “No matter what’s happening in the industry, we’ve always viewed ourselves as a customer service company that just happens to sell shoes, clothing, handbags and accessories.”

Beth Bartholomew, senior director of Independent Sales at Earth Brands, gives a thumbs up to the customer-friendly upgrades. “Zappos has been a really good partner and our brand shows well on their site,” she says. Scott Home, president of Fashion Major Brands, makers of Coolway and Musse & Cloud, praises Zappos for being an ideal e-tail partner. “We worked really well together on a launch of a new brand (Freestyle by Coolway) exclusively on Zappos last year,” he says, adding, “They are quick to fill in and easy to work with.”

In addition to mastering the online shoe retailing basics, Zappos continues to think outside the (shoe) box. The company installed a 25-foot-long aquarium in its employee nap room and CEO Tony Hsieh’s vision (began in 2012) to create a community-focused city built around its downtown Las Vegas headquarters is becoming a reality. Zappos also just entered a partnership with Caesars Entertainment to open the Zappos Theater at Planet Hollywood Resort & Casino. The aim is to connect with consumers on a deeper level while staging A-list entertainment. —M.S.

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RAIN BOOTS

JOULES THE LATEST BRITISH invasion isn’t rock stars or royalty, but rain boots.

Since landing ashore in Fall ’16, Joules has made quite the splash. The lifestyle brand known for its colorful and patterned wellies are catching on nationwide. “Having launched the brand in the U.S. with rain boots, we’re thrilled to be recognized in this category,” says David Wood, the brand’s general manager for the Americas. “It’s been great to see how this market has responded to our unique prints and colorful designs.”

While Joules has since expanded its offering to include outerwear, clothing and accessories, rain boots remain its bread and butter. “Rain boot sales have grown significantly worldwide as people learn more about us,” says Bil Waring, senior footwear buyer, adding that the outlook for growth remains strong for this year. “We’ve already had a tremendous response to the start of 2018 and look forward to the next steps in expanding our footprint here,” he adds.

Joules has garnered a following with its English country designs and prints, which are all hand drawn at its headquarters in Market Harborough, England. Standouts for 2017 included signature florals, dog prints, bees, dragonflies, spots, stripes and horses. Rain boots came in short and tall versions and a range of bold colors. Last year, Joules also introduced new silhouettes like the Rockingham Chelsea boot with a translucent upper to show prints drawn on the lining on a slimmer silhouette for a modern alternative; the Faux Fur Cuff rain boot; Downton Wellies featuring a highquality rubber that’s soft yet durable, padded footbed and new super grip wedge sole; and the black Biker rain boot with strap and buckle detailing and a back zipper for ease of entry. “The mid-height boot looks just like a leather biker boot but keeps your feet dry,” Waring says. In addition, Joules launched mini-me versions of its women’s Wellibob and Chelsea rain boot for girls. Both styles feature Joules’ exclusive hand-drawn prints. Waring also singles out the Back Adjusta Welly with its extendable gusset in the back with a strap that enables quick and easy adjustment, and the Pop On Clog rain boot as popular items last year. “These all carry our hand-drawn prints and differ from others in the market as they incorporate a Neoprene Heel counter cuff for comfort and keep secured on the foot,” he says. “They’re great for the outdoors, gardening or dog walking.”

Joules’ extensive product range is a big draw for consumers as well as the quality at affordable price points, according to Waring. He adds that the success also stems from strong customer engagement that begins in the U.K. “We’re highly engaged with our customer and listen to them because they will tell us what they want,” he says. “When we launch a collection in the U.S., it’s tried, trusted and fit for purpose.” Adds Wood, “Our range of rain boots make our customers smile. They are subtle in their way but are based on our true heritage as an outerwear brand.” —A.J.

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800.962.0030 | www.springfootwear.com facebook.com/SpringStepShoes | instagram.com/SpringStepShoes twitter.com/MySpringStep | pinterest.com/SpringStepShoes | youtube.com/SpringFootwear

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PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

BEST COLLAB

VANS X KARL LAGERFELD

IT’S FITTING THAT the winner of the best collab category for 2017 went to a couture/streetwear blend—a sure sign of the times. Athleisure dominated both sidewalks and catwalks last year, and Vans’ array of trendy collabs with many of its classic styles was at the tip of this spear. Notable drops included Peanuts, Brain Dead, Alyx, Barneys and Opening Ceremony, to cite a few, but the one that stood out the most and caused the biggest stir was its partnership

WORK BOOTS

TIMBERLAND PRO TIMBERLAND PRO IS workin’ it—literally. The brand had a banner year in 2017 and scored its third consecutive Plus Award. Led by its “benchmark” anti-fatigue underfoot technology and targeting promising demographics of both younger consumers and women entering the trades, Timberland Pro has zeroed in on what works. “We’re a research and development company that makes boots,” says General Manager Bob Sineni. “We truly care about our worker. We know if we make their life better, they’re coming back.”

Also making a rebound of late is job growth across several industries, like warehouses. The opportunities for selling new hires a trusted name in work boots is growing alongside that growth, according to Design Director Steve Ammon. “We did benefit from economic tailwinds,” he says. “Manufacturing has returned to a level that we haven’t seen since 2008. Everybody is migrating into the digital space and opening distribution centers, which is very good

with legendary designer Karl Lagerfeld that hit the market in September.

Few members of the fashion hierarchy are as well-known for their creativity, chicness and ability to stretch the limits as Lagerfeld. And while the Chanel creative director’s penchant for white hair, black sunglasses and high starched collars may seem counterpoint to Vans’ laidback Southern California surfer/ skateboarder aesthetic, it was Lagerfeld’s team that approached Vans. The partnership just made sense, according to Angie Dita, head designer of Vans Classics Footwear. “We decided to work together because both Vans and Karl Lagerfeld’s brand ethos revolves around creating products that are both timeless and iconic,” she says, adding, “It works because couture has taken a different approach to its influence on fashion, especially with a designer like Karl Lagerfeld. He’s known to combine the classics with what’s modern.” Dita says, “The collaboration didn’t seem out of place. Sneaker culture reaches beyond streetwear and has always been connected with fashion.”

The Vans x Karl Lagerfeld collection ($40 to $300 SRP) featured 12 apparel items and six shoe styles, including the debut of the SK8-Hi Laceless and the Old Skool Laceless platforms, both outfitted in luxe leather with K-quilted stitching atop white soles. Rounding out the collection was a black leather Classic Slip-on finished with K-quilted details, the Old Skool and Sk8-Hi Reissues in premium leather and outfitted with bouclé fabric quarter-panels atop a black outsole, and the legendary Checkerboard Classic Slip-on remastered with a Vans x Karl Lagerfeld cameo print. “We incorporated some of Karl’s timeless design elements, like boucle fabric and K-quilted stitching, onto the shoes while the apparel sticks to his famous black-and-white palette,” Dita says, adding that the response was fantastic. “The collection did incredibly well! Most styles sold out within minutes on Vans.com, and we had great sell-through at select retailers.” —A.J.

for our business. We’re covering the inside and the outside of the building.”

The second major area that led to Timberland Pro’s success last year was meeting the demand of greater numbers of women getting into labor fields.

Instead of the “shrink and pink” strategy, however, Timberland Pro hired a female designer to create a last expressly for women. The HighTower women’s collection launched last fall. These 6-inch work boots feature anti-fatigue technology and polyurethane footbeds with dynamic arches, premium fullgrain waterproof leather uppers, an alloy safety toe, cast-metal hardware and fiberglass shank, and antimicrobial linings. “The eight SKUs are a phenomenal success and far exceeded our expectations,” Ammon says.

Director of Marketing Cassie Heppner says the company capitalized on the burgeoning female trade worker by creating the campaign, “Made For the Women Who Make,” which highlighted the product as well as different opportunities for women to get into the trades. Timberland Pro also partnered with the documentary, Hard Hatted Woman, that focuses on the unionized construction trade. “The young woman worker is only first starting to fill this skills gap,” Sineni says. “We’re committed to her, and when she gets there, we’re going to be waiting for her.”

Timberland Pro also targeted casual Millennial males, many of who may ride skateboards to work. The Powertrain Sport, an athleisure style, was a big success in 2017 as was the Helix HD. “The Disruptor series has all of the safety elements that these guys need for their work in a silhouette that is comfortable for going to the bar with their friends after work,” Ammon says.

Lastly, Timberland Pro took pride in its ongoing efforts to give back to communities in need. The brand planned its 2017 regional sales meeting in Puerto Rico so that the 50 employees could fix up an orphanage damaged by Hurricane Maria on the side. For two, 10-hour days, they installed and painted a fence as well as bought the kids a trampoline. Sineni, for one, is excited for Timberland Pro to continue to put its best foot forward, because once they wear a pair, “We’ve got them for life.” —M.S.

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CHILDREN’S

NEW BALANCE

MEN’S COMFORT

ROCKPORT GUIDING CONSUMERS TO make “thoughtful” purchases during these economically challenging times was a major component of Rockport’s strategy and success in 2017, according to John Daher, senior vice president of product. “Consumers look for brands they trust and product that offers versatility across seasons and wearing occasions,” he says. “Our consistent dedication to design and comfort and functionality earned that trust.”

Rockport made a concerted effort to go back to its roots and reemphasize its focus on technology and the athletic influences of its heritage last year. “Dedication to the art of shoemaking across every category and both genders has led to amazing strides in our product development,” Daher says.

“This allows us to better serve the consumer wherever they find us.”

There were four standout collections, according to Daher. The men’s line was led by Total Motion Fusion/Classic Dress, which is an everyday business shoe that delivers mobility with premium comfort and looks spot-on with jeans or khakis and a sports jacket. The collection solves the choice between lightweight and stability, dispersing the bumps (shocks) in the road over a full-length engineered plate. Next up was the DresSports 2 Lite collection, which offers sports shoe comfort and weight with everyday functionality as well as modern, classic dress patterns and finished leathers that transition from day to night. Daher says the collection proved particularly popular among younger consumers who grew up wearing athletic shoes. The shoes feature a lightweight EVA sole with an embedded shank for midfoot support and walkability, performance linings that wick moisture and provide anti-microbial support even during “no sock days” in summer. The Style Purpose collection proved perfect for consumers rediscovering tailored dress options, from modern suiting to stylish jeans. The all-weather rubber soles come in a variety of translucent

shades and show off hand-finished leathers that take their cue from bench-crafted, high-end Italian design. For less dressy looks, Rockport’s versatile Colle collection was noteworthy, with simple designs that are tailored yet casual, modern yet athletic.

“Premium uppers with flexible comfort and truTECH cushioning technology makes these easy-to-wear styles with cross-generational appeal,” Daher says.

As for technology breakthroughs, Daher cites the truFLEX engineered spine. Embedded in the midsole, it provides dynamic motion control and energy return during a natural stride that reduces fatigue. Performance knitted materials for lightweight breathability complete the sporty package. “These more contemporary hybrid styles with elegant silhouettes can be worn to the office and well into an active evening,” he says. “It’s a true performance story.”

To get the word out, Rockport played in the micro-influencing space to attract younger consumers on Instagram. There were three campaigns: “Travel In Style” featuring fall boots, “Fall Activities” with casual/active shoes and “Joy Is Rockport” featuring dress shoes with a focus on its Total Motion collection. Additionally, the company executed a cross-channel holiday campaign, “Joy Is,” where Instagram followers posted comments on what brings them joy during the holiday season and tagged a friend with whom they would like to share it. A winner was randomly selected and gifted a free pair of shoes along with their friend.

Chalk it up as another example of Rockport’s relentless efforts that delivered, as men’s sales surpassed projections for 2017, according to Daher. “Our passion has always been building great product that invites consumers to wear it,” he says. “As I walk airport terminals or take a seat on a train, if I mention that I work for ‘Rockport,’ I’m nearly always treated to a passionate story about their experience wearing our brand.” —M.S.

NEW BALANCE HAS proven time and again that consumers of all ages and sizes can trust their quality, fit, peformance and comfort aspects. So when it comes to finding comfortable kicks for kids, parents go for the same brand they trust on their own feet.

Sales in 2017 reflected that trust as New Balance Kids experienced double-digit growth within its takedown performance category, says Dean Orfanos, business unit manager for New Balance Kids. Growth was strongly fueled by the New Balance Cruz, Coast, Urge and Arishi models. On the lifestyle side, classics like the 574, 990 and 4040 did well, especially in ecommerce, which saw a significant boost in sales. “Key franchise models and kids-only executions allowed the brand to stand out at retail and gain interest,” Orfanos says.

Melissa Gerbereux, senior buyer for DNA Footwear in New York. reports similar success with those styles.

Kids’ running was a popular vertical for New Balance, even though the store didn’t carry the adult equivalents. “Parents know and wear New Balances, so they trust in it,” she says, adding that anything with Velcro straps and alternate closures sold best in kids’ as well as classics like 574.

Helping drive sales growth and brand awareness in kids’ was the company’s #NBGivesBack initiatives benefiting children. “We were successful as we continued to implement stories around key franchise models and establish new models with kids-only executions to drive excitement,” Orfanos says. One such initiative was the “1 for You, 1 for Youth” program that donated a pair of running shoes to New York Road Runners, a public charity youth program, for every pair of athletic shoes purchased at the NYRR Runcenter, which featured the NB Run Hub in New York.

Retailers continue to carry New Balance because of the wide size range available, vertical product stories and exciting collaborations. “New Balance is tried-and-true, and they can reach a whole plethora of customers, whether they’re in grade school, their early 20s or someone more mature,” Gerbereux says, noting many other athletic brands focus only on the trendier lifestyle crowd and don’t make shoes with specific kids’ needs in mind. “Their assortment speaks to everyone because anyone can find a pair of comfortable sneakers, whether they’re looking for performance or lifestyle,” Gerbereux adds. —A.J. march 2018 • footwearplusmagazine.com 37

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PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

MEN’S COLLECTION

CLARKS ORIGINALS

WOMEN’S COLLECTION

STUART WEITZMAN

CLARKS ORIGINALS NABBED its second straight Plus Award in this category. Company executives attribute the win in 2017 to a few key factors: intense planning that began back in 2016, which in part entailed a soft relaunch of the brand, a design team that continues to wow and leadership in the form of CEO Mike Shearwood and Gary Champion, president of Clarks America’s, as well as other key members who have returned to the U.S. divison for a fresh approach to future business. It also doesn’t hurt that Manolo Blahnik and Anthony Bourdain are fans of the 200-year-old brand’s iconic Wallabees and Desert Boots.

A key story in 2017 was the full rebranding of Clarks Originals, according to Tara McRae, senior vice president of marketing and ecommerce. “We had a new strategic approach, including a new logo treatment and new product,” she says. “It’s been a very exciting year for us.”

Product has been divided into three pillars: Dress, Sport and Casual Icon. A top seller last year was the Trigenic Evo, part of the Sport pillar. It features a threepiece outsole construction that replicates natural foot motion. The brand also kept pace with the collab movement, including the OVO x Clarks Originals Desert Boot in partnership with Drake. It sold out in a matter of minutes, McRae reports.

Another notable collab was a partnership with Barneys for limited-edition men’s and kids’ Wallabees in ultra-premium

leathers. “There’s been a saturation point for collaborations, but we’ve been so strategic,” she says. “We’re not dependent upon [collaborations] to sell. They’re the icing on the cake in terms of bringing in new customers.”

Also of note in 2017 was the opening of the Clark’s Originals pop-up shop inside iconic Philadelphia streetwear boutique, UBIQ. It ran for three months last fall and served as an ideal platform to showcase the breadth of the brand, McRae says. The space hosted several in-store activities, like the monthly “The World Needs Originals” panel series that featured photographers, musicians and artists, who spoke on the importance of originality. Guests also had exclusive access to the first drop in a series of collabs with UBIQ and the lifestyle accessories brand, Pintrill. McRrae adds that the shop was an ideal setting to witness sell-through of the Trigenic Evo. “Being able to introduce a style into the marketplace [and not being] one of the big guys within sneaker culture was fantastic,” she says.

Despite a tough year for the industry overall, Clarks Originals had a “fantastic ’17,” McRae reports. The company surpassed its targets. “I’m proud of the product and design team and what they have accomplished,” she says. “They continue to innovate and design and that, combined with some amazing marketing, has enabled us to perform well. We truly are a global team working on a global brand.” —M.S.

FEW BRANDS ARE as synonymous with classic women’s fashion than Stuart Weitzman. Since the label’s acquisition

by Tapestry (formerly Coach) from Sycamore Partners in 2015 and the retirement of its legendary namesake officially mid last year, collections haven’t missed a beat. The designs are spot-on trend-wise; the quality remains exquisite; it’s the choice of leading ladies such as Taylor Swift, Kate Middleton and Gigi Hadid; and its flagship stores remain ladies-loveshoes destinations on some of the world’s hottest retail strips, including Rodeo Drive, Michigan Avenue and Madison Avenue.

It’s a testament to the team, led by CEO and Brand President Wendy Kahn, who took the helm in the fall of 2016.

Tapestry CEO Victor Luis singled out Stuart Weitzman’s “solid growth” in its fourth quarter (sales ending July 1, 2017) that helped the company post a double-digit increase in net income for the year. The brand’s sales totaled $88 million, up 15 percent. “We invested in the brand, both in stores and most significantly in people, bringing in the key leadership and design talent to drive performance in both growing the global footwear category and in their nascent accessories business,” Luis stated. The label followed that up with second quarter net sales (period ending Dec. 30, 2017) of $121 million—up 2 percent. Luis gave a shout out to Giovanni Morelli’s creative direction.

Sandi Lanier, manager at Monkee’s of the Village in Winston-Salem, NC, reports Stuart Weitzman is a cornerstone.

“We’ve had them for 17 years,” she says, citing the trust factor in the label’s quality. “They do terrific in our stores because their shoes fit true to size,” she adds. Stuart Weitzman gives women what they want, agrees Amanda Astor, vice president of stores for The Shoe Box, a six-store chain in New York, Florida and Georgia. The clientele is a mix of women who seek the latest trends and classic styles. “Stuart Weitzman covers both,” she says.

Stuart Weitzman’s 5050 and Highland boots were standouts in 2017. Both were top sellers for Lanier, along with the black Tessa and kitten heel Poco pump—perfect for more mature consumers, she says. The 5050 also sold well at The Shoe Box. “The 5050 has grown so much in popularity. It passes between family members because everyone knows it’s a reliable style,” Astor says, adding that the Highland and Lowland boots and anything with pearl detailing also sold well. —AJ.

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WOMEN’S COMFORT

TAOS

WELCOME TO THE winner’s circle! Taos marks its first Plus Award led by its classic approach: recognize a trend, create great product and support retail partners to the fullest. Taos, a self-proclaimed David in the world of footwear Goliaths, has stealthily evolved into a solid, year-round women’s comfort lifestyle shoe resource. The winning formula is working so well that President Glen Barad doesn’t relate to what many others are saying about 2017 being a tough environment. Taos’ sales are up double digits, which marks several years in a row of such growth for the 13-year-old company. The good fortune extends to many of its retail partners as well. “It’s been a healthy year,” he says. “The majority of our retailers are having the best year they’ve ever had.”

Barad is a firm believer that quality brick-and-mortar stores remain a vital channel in the industry. The ability for a consumer to walk into a store, try shoes

Otto

on and have a relationship with the people servicing them remains of value, he notes. “They find out what fits, looks good and leave the store content and happy,” Barad says. “We’ve chosen to support brick-and-mortar retailers, and that we think it’s the right thing to do. It’s working very well for us.”

Classic sneaker silhouettes, in particular, worked well for Taos last year, according to Barad. The launch of the Taos Active collection blew out of stores. Led by its Curves and Pods comfort footbed that offers heel, arch and metatarsal support combined with “curves” that hug the contours of the foot and shock-absorbent “pods,” the collection delivered on a sneaker’s expected comfort premise. While the palette of rich earth tones and artisan finishes raised the bar on “sneaker” style. Taos Active has “taken on its own personality” and has become a stand-alone brand, Barad adds.

While Barad says all Taos shoes are comfortable, the look and quality are what drives sales. In fact, he describes Taos’ positioning as a lifestyle brand that just happens to be comfortable. “We build with better components—our sandals last longer than most—and the consumer is recognizing it,” he says.

“She keeps coming back, and bringing her friends.” Barad adds, “Everyone is worried about margin, margin, margin and we’re worried about product, product, product. We make sure something is trend-right, looks good and, whenever we can, we make the product adjustable. That’s a big part of our success.”

Another factor contributing to the success of Taos is its commitment to putting the needs of its customers first—both retailers and consumers. For example, Taos has one of the most stringent MAP policies in the industry. “We are 100-percent clean and have no issues in the marketplace,” Barad says. “It’s sad that we have to allocate funds to do this, but you have to because it allows our retailers to feel confident about investing in our brand.” Happy retailers are repeat customers. Same goes for consumers. “The most important thing is to make sure the consumer is taken care of and wants to come back to you,” he says. “Without her, you don’t have longevity. “ —M.S.

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P H OTOG RA PHY

BY JA M I E I S A I A ST Y LI NG BY DA N I M ORA LE S

c hu nky sn ea k er s g ot no th i n’ on th e o r i g i n a l dad sh oe si l ho u e tt e. s le e k, s u b t l e a nd sna z z y, t h e d e r b y i s th e a nt i- snea ke r stat ement f or fall ’18 .

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Johnston & Murphy welted Derbys, Wilson socks, Scotch & Soda trench coat, Selected Homme pants.

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Naot burnished Derbys, Wilson socks, Scotch & Soda cardigan, ASOS floral pants. Opposite: Rockport brogue Derbys, Wilson socks, O.N.S. plaid pants, Scotch & Soda shirt, Krammer & Stoudt jacket.

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Left to Right: Trask, Mephisto and Clarks.

Opposite: Florsheim leather and velvet Derbys, Wilson socks, Krammer & Stoudt striped trousers, Uniqlo shirt, Barracuda sweater.

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Samuel Hubbard Derbys, Wilson socks, Selected Homme pants, Uniqlo striped shirt, Vince Camuto jacket, Soof pocket square.

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From top: Dansko, Geox and Ecco. Opposite: Vionic brogue Derbys, Wilson socks, Scotch & Soda striped pants, Barracuda jacket, shirt by Death to Tennis.

Grooming: Christina Nicole Errante; model: William/Fenton Model Management.

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EDITOR’S PICKS

Gabor

D E S I G N E R C H AT

SA N D B Y SAYA N E W YO R K

How’s business? Great. We have a big presence on social media, especially Instagram, so online sales are busy even in the winter since warm climate areas always order from me. My sandals work great for online because if there’s a quarter-inch size difference you can still wear them, so I see fewer returns.

Nina

Badgley Mischka

Seven Dials

THE STONES

Designers ge t their rocks off by adding bling y baubles.

What makes a Sand by Saya sandal special? The quality. I’ve partnered with a top factory and use the best materials—the straps are soft but firm enough to support the toe area and the EVA soles are durable and comfortable.

What’s new for Fall ’18? I used a lot of tassels and fabrics to cover the toe area a little more since people like sandals but don’t like how their toes look or if their nail polish isn’t touched up. I also want to offer more coverage because a lot of my customers say they can only wear my sandals three months a year. This way people can wear them longer.

Who are some designers you admire?

Manolo Blahnik’s designs are beautiful. I want to do the same, but mass production for high heels and sandals are two different things. I also just saw a documentary on Balmain designer Olivier Rousteing. He

E D I TO R ’ S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I S S

THE FOOTWEAR BUSINESS is full of success stories of immigrants coming to the United States to carve out their niche, and Saya Fukuda is one of them. Years before founding her sandal line Sand by Saya New York, the Hong Kong-native was styling and choreographing celebrities for MTV Japan in Tokyo. “I saw a lot of shoes in that job and knew I could design something that was practical but beautiful,” she says of why she decided to immigrate to New York in 2006 to study shoe design at Parsons School of Design.

Fukuda launched Sand by Saya New York in 2010 on a shoestring budget. By hand-embroidering one medium and one large sandal in two colors to show buyers, she started from the soles up—literally.

“It was difficult getting into the fashion field as a woman of color,” Fukuda says, noting she targeted the vacation community first.

Eventually her hard work and talents paid off. Fukuda gradually gained a following for her unique crystal and rhinestone designs that are catchy yet simple “I’m selling lots of heart crystals and pineapples, which is easy to understand,” she says. “I target people beyond New York, who want more fun than just black and white and appreciate something unique and artisanal. More stones and rhinestones, but still modern and eye catchy.”

Fukuda’s handcrafted beaded sandals were first picked up by Barneys New York and Ron Herman in Tokyo, and have since spread out to boutiques in Japan and resort areas around the U.S. She now wholesales orders a thousand pairs at a time, producing a range of flat and wedge sandals made of EVA that’s soft enough to not cause irritation but firm enough to support vacationers who often spend hours on their feet. Fukuda also does a brisk business on Amazon, Bluefly and other sites, hand-embroidering special orders with crystal flowers, colorful beaded designs and gingham ruffles. She’ll even resole sandals so customers can get more wear from her one-of-a-kind designs. “It’s our own small way of recycling,” Fukuda says, adding that she also donates a portion of her sales to Greenpeace. “I’m a big beach fan, so we’re trying to clean up our oceans and support the creatures in the water.” —Aleda Johnson

joined the brand at 23, and his techniques and passion for couture is amazing. I was crying watching it.

What is your idea of the perfect shoe?

I enjoy different looks at different events.

So I would have 20 perfect shoes. Beautiful shoes everywhere.

What might people be surprised to know about you? I’ve been thinking about getting a side job teaching at Parsons or FIT. I’ve had lots of interns, and I love teaching. You get a lot of energy working with young kids.

What do you love most about designing shoes? Vague ideas that eventually become a 3D product sitting in front of me. That’s like an orgasm. I completed it. You have a design in your head, sketch it and and then create a real product—and people pay for it. I also love when people give me lots of nice compliments about my shoes.

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THIS JUST IN

Big Apple Boot Call Intrepid New Yorkers elevate their street fashion game in a range of boots built to battle the elements.

Photography by Marcy Swingle

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U P C L O S E C O M F O RT

Defining ‘Egofriendly’ Asportuguesas offers a fresh take on indoor-outdoor style.

The Perfect Fit Adjustability features set Revere apart.

THE NAME IS Asportuguesas. Its tagline is, “Egofriendly footwear, where eco meets trendy.” While it’s a mouthful, Kevin Bosco, president of Bos. & Co. Footwear, says the new lightweight, easy-to-wear, cork-soled brand is a breeze to wear. What’s more, the brand’s sustainable materials story—one ton of cork retrieves 73 tons of CO2 from the atmosphere—is a load off the minds of consumers seeking to lessen their carbon footprint.

Uppers on the Canoe slip-ons, available for Fall ’18, are made of 100-percent natural boiled wool (cool when warm and vice-versa) and the natural cork outsoles mixed with latex are harvested from trees without being cut down. In addition, sheep are sheered as opposed to slaughtered and water-based cements round out the sustainability story, according to Bosco. Then there are the comfort attributes: “It’s an extremely lightweight, super-flexible, shock-absorbing outsole with an ergonomic last shape and molded footbed that just feels great,” he says, noting that the brand has the potential for broad appeal. “It’s everyone and everywhere.

We see these as going to yoga class, après ski, walking the dog, leisure type of footwear.” Then there are the attractive 60-point margins on Asportuguesas’ flip-flops (SRP: $49) and clogs (SRP: $135). “This is a unique product with all the attributes to be successful: comfort, quality, strong margins and a youthful perspective on footwear,” Bosco says.

Fittingly, Asportuguesas is the brainchild of young architectural student, Pedro Abrantes. It followed a challenge sent out a couple of years ago by the Amorim Group, the world’s largest producer of cork products, to find new and innovative ways to use the material. Abrantes took top honors for his line of flip-flops that claim to offer better cushioning and grip thanks to the cork/latex hybrid blend. The collection will make its debut this spring in select North American stores. Bos. & Co. came into the picture via its relationship with Kyaia, Portugal’s largest footwear manufacturer and makers of Fly London and Softinos brands. Bos. & Co. is the North American distributor of those brands. When Kyaia was approached by Amorim Group to partner with an organization with expertise and established distribution channels in footwear, Bos & Co. got the call. “We’ve been partners with Kyaia for a long-time,” Bosco says, noting that Asportuguesas is a great fit with its portfolio of brands aimed at better-grade retailers. Plus, he says the quirky, young aesthetic is spot-on in a casual fashion world where the demands for style versatility and comfort come above all else.

So far so good on the initial feedback from buyers at the recent round of fall market shows, Bosco reports. “The reaction has been very strong,” he says. “The product attributes coupled with a competitive retail price have brought a lot of attention to the Asportuguesas launch.” —Greg Dutter

FOUNDED BY HUSBAND/WIFE team Craig and Annie Truscott in 2012, Revere was born on Australia’s Gold Coast with the simple dream of creating the perfect fitting sandals for men and women that feature support, comfort and adjustability while seamlessly meshing with summer style. Mission accomplished.

The company has since expanded its offering to include closedtoe styles for all seasons as well as customizable inserts, having made its successful debut in the U.S. market in the fall of 2016.

“We stand out in the comfort market because of our unrivaled focus on the importance of fit,” Annie says. Sandals feature a set of complimentary strap extensions to provide extra room. The added half-inch of adjustability are low profile and discreet, allowing wearers to customize the fit without sacrificing style, Annie says. In addition Revere shoes include optional padded “fillers” that slip underneath the removable orthotic footbed for a snugger fit. “Put quite simply: Revere shoes fit more feet,” she says. Adds Craig, “The concept behind Revere came about when we identified a gap in the market: beautiful, stylish sandals with genuine functionality.”

With a motto of “inspired by fashion, designed for comfort,” Revere is aimed at the style-conscious consumers who favor high-quality shoes in beautiful materials, so they can live life comfortably while also looking great. Retailing for $130-$190, the Fall ’18 line builds upon successes from last year with a wider selections of styles featuring the softest, hand-sourced leathers, suedes and nubucks sourced from around the world. Unlike stiff synthetic materials that tend to chafe, Craig says Revere’s all-leather uppers naturally stretch and soften over time, conforming to the shape of feet. Notable boot styles include the Havana, Palermo and Damascus. The fall palette is on trend with popular shades like onyx, sapphire and rose as well as animal prints like snake and lizard.

Despite its strong summer heritage, the Truscotts are thrilled by the response to Revere’s fall collection. “The interest and excitement is overwhelming,” Craig says, noting they’ve learned a great deal from spending quality time with U.S. retailers during trade shows and in-store visits over the past few years. “It’s really helped us connect with this market.” As Revere continues to grow and expand, the Truscotts plan to adhere to their current distribution strategy: a blend of independent brick-and-mortar dealers and a targeted online presence. —Aleda Johnson

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W H AT’ S SELL I N G

Comfort Speciality

W

S H O E PA R L O R N e w Yo r k , N Y

HEN THE RETAIL climate gets as volatile as its been of late, many store owners favor profit margins over introducing newness. The risk factor gets reined in—some might even say it’s being strangled lately. Shoe Parlor, however, continues to be a destination for new brands and established ones. It’s no easy task, says Jason Rogowsky, co-owner of the Manhattan store, but for more than 30 years, his family has been shoeing New Yorkers and visitors from around the world. “We’re the biggest, baddest footwear space in this city when it comes to product array,” he says.

Steps from Times Square and dozens of hotels, the 1,400-square-foot Shoe Parlor sees all manner of customers. Thus, it’s impossible to lump it into any one category. “We’re a lifestyle footwear store,” says Rogowsky, who made his retail bones back in high school, working in the family’s former outpost in Greenwich Village. “Brands like to create buckets, but we don’t fit into one kind. We specialize in footwear, not a specific sector.”

Having transitioned from a brown shoe store in the early ’90s, Shoe Parlor’s mix is now 50 percent sneaker-based. The store carries almost 100 brands—everything from Dr. Scholl’s and Asics to Dr. Martens and Ugg. Shoe Parlor’s customer base is equally eclectic and varies depending on the exchange rate or which convention is in town, so Rogowsky stocks comfort, athletic, boots, slippers, hiking, sandals and kids’. “Our customers are looking for the latest and greatest fashion, and we’re ever-evolving our mix to meet that demand,” he says, noting that its global audience requires the store to carry brands that are relevant outside of the U.S. as well.

Shoe Parlor also does a brisk online business. In fact, it embraced the channel early on. “Because we didn’t have 10 million stores to manage, we’ve always believed in having web integration with our brick-and-mortar business,” Rogowsky says, adding that almost 40 percent of Shoe Parlor’s revenue comes from online sales. But that doesn’t mean foot traffic isn’t still an important facet of the business. In fact, it’s the day-to-day interactions that provide the best barometer for what will sell.

“My father (Abe) and I are on the floor every day, and we have better insight because we are hearing what customers want straight from them,” he says.

“We’re always looking for bigger and better to meet the quickly changing consumer expectations.” —Aleda Johnson Who is the typical Shoe Parlor customer? While we do get plenty of locals, our core customer is a world traveler as we’re surrounded by major hotels. We often see them three to four times a year, and they come from all parts of the world. Depending on what the value of the dollar is, they’ll be different regions of the world from one year to the next. Sometimes it’s

Brazil, sometimes Mexico, sometimes England. We tend to have wealthier customers in general. We search all over for new brands and items that aren’t easily found elsewhere. Plus, we offer service that they can’t get anywhere else—and definitely not on Amazon. There’s nothing like the personal touch.

How’s business of late? We had a good December because we had great winter weather, but then February has been on the mild side so everything’s relative. On the plus side, it was 70 degrees one day last month, and we actually sold a pair of sandals.

What are your leading brands? We had a good Ugg season, and we do extremely well with Birkenstock because they’re one of the hottest brands right now. We also do well with New Balance, On and Skechers. Classic styles, in general, do well in the brands we carry, but we’re dependent on companies getting a little more creative with their new products. We need brands to get more innovative, because classics won’t last forever, and when that trend dies so will some of the companies. Brands need to think outside the box, because a lot of out-of-the-box styles have been working.

What is the best new brand you’ve added recently? Glerups is fairly new, and it’s been great for us because wool is definitely a hot trend right now.

What’s the biggest challenge facing Shoe Parlor? Predatory online pricing. The customer wants to match every price out there, and everyone bootlegging everyone’s stuff or trans-shipping product has beaten the market up. Our biggest challenge is holding up the price of footwear because margins are getting squeezed every day.

Are brands doing enough to help? Vendors are not helping enough because they’re not controlling distribution as well as they should. If you have good partners that distribute product properly, then you shouldn’t have problem with pricing. Of course, there are certain retailers that will always be discounters, whether something is a MAP product or not. They think they’re the exception, which kills the product.

What’s the smartest business move you’ve made recently? Finding product that is not marketed to the masses, because once everyone has it the supply and demand curve works against us. We have to pick the right shoes from the right vendors and hope they sell. The shoe business is more of a gamble than Las Vegas. The craps table got nothing on the shoe business.

Where do you envision Shoe Parlor in five years? We hope to capture a little sliver of the rest of the world. We want to gobble up some more market share, and that might mean adding more stores. You have to evolve. We never say never and never say no.

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PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

Lifetime Achievement

continued from page 20 to ensure that the industry is committed to shoes that meet all legal and regulatory requirements.” Campbell, a former FDRA chairman and current board member, is a relentless advocate for the entire industry, Priest says.

“Bob has long been a supporter of our efforts in Washington on behalf of the industry,” he notes. “There hasn’t been an FDRA Washington fly-in where Bob has not been actively walking the halls of Congress to make sure lawmakers understand the negative impact of import duties on our consumers and companies.”

NO SURRENDER Campbell may be older and missing half a leg, but he’s not going to let that slow him down or prevent him from going to work each day. There’s much to be done. There’s much growth to be had. On the heels of its expansion into men’s with Champion, BBC is currently negotiating deals to enter the women’s market, he reports. “I still have a lot of ambition about growing this company,” he says, noting that this year will be the best in BBC’s history, and 2019 should top it. “We have a great group of young executives who will take over one day, but Don and I have no intention of going any time soon. It’s too much fun,” he adds.

“Bobby is not done doing things that he will be remembered for,” says Issler. “The chapters of his book continue to be written.” Priest agrees: “I always feel like he’s just getting started, so I think we all need to stay tuned.”

Many a (lesser) man would have cashed out long ago, or hung ’em up after a major medical scare at an advanced age. “Most people would have disappeared into the abyss after losing a leg,” says Newman. “But Bobby is a strong-willed, optimistic, tough-as-nails type of person.”

Campbell says rehab is just another obstacle to overcome. He vows to be up and moving on his own soon. “I’m doing lots of physical therapy and my goal, by this summer, is to be able to walk, ride a bicycle and play golf again,” he says, adding that life is all about having the right attitude. “I could have woken up after that operation and given up.” But that’s not an option, especially since Ouaknine says Campbell challenged him to a race around the block once his rehab is finished. Challenge accepted.

Campbell’s enthusiasm and passion for life is contagious. It goes back to that shot of Bob everyone could all use on occasion. In fact, an informal poll of what word best describes the man reads like ingredients if such a bottle existed: resilient, trustworthy, passionate, respected, loved, outspoken, generous, genuine, gracious, forthright, caring, energetic, smart, irrepressible, optimistic, unstoppable.

“He’s just good people,” says Foot Locker’s Johnson. “He’s a shirt-offyour-back kind of guy.” Ron Fromm, CEO of FFANY, who first came into contact with Campbell in the early ’80s during his days with Volume Shoe Corporation, says there’s no restraining Campbell from pursuing joy in life, and that’s what makes him so special. “Whether it’s getting the next order, giving back his last dollar or sharing his love of family, he’s all in, at all times.”

Asked if he ever envisioned the company he founded in 1975 would become what it is today, Campbell says, “Hell no! I envisioned one day to the next.” But he says he “never looked back,” even though he was “scared to death” at times in those early days. At the same time, he never worried about failing. He just pressed ahead with his fearless determination and drive to succeed. Campbell is a force a nature—something several competitors mentioned to him at the very beginning of BBC. “One of the biggest kids’ executives in the world at the time told me that I’d be super-successful one day,” Campbell says. “I didn’t know what he was talking about. I had no idea if that was going to be the case.” Turns out, the guy was spot-on, and most anyone who’s come across Campbell since would readily agree. •

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LA S T WO R D

Smooth Operators

Spreading the Word E x t r a B u tt e r ’s B e r n i e G r o s s o n t h e b o u t i q u e’s o d e t o g r i tt y o l d N e w Yo r k a n d w h a t ’ s n e x t . B y A l e d a J o h n s o n

WHAT STARTED OUT as a fun design contest to stretch the creativity of Extra Butter’s team inspired the New York sneaker boutique’s latest capsule collection with Reebok. Launched last month, “Dear Downtown” is Art Director Bernie Gross’ love letter to the petri dish of New York music and art movements of the ’80s.

Looking at the subcultures surrounding punk, hip-hop, street art and fashion, the collaboration of the Reebok Classi Workout Plus not only highlights the history behind Extra Butter, having marked its 10th year last year, but what that history means to the creative minds behind the boutique and how it influences current streetwear trends. Here, Gross talks about the current state of street fashion and Extra Butter’s gritty place in it.

a comfortable environment to shop in. There used to be this stigma of elitist sneaker boutique employees intimidating customers, but I feel we’ve graduated from that. People appreciate that we’ve created this community here, and it’s resonated on social media. The storefront next door closing down was an added opportunity to build 100-percent custom activations and tell a bigger story than just purchasing shoes off a shelf. We want to make it super-experiential. That’s what will separate the strong from the weak, because with the digital age people can swipe through their phone and shop. What will drive consumers to come to stores are those unique points of difference.

What else is on tap from Extra Butter this year? This month, we’re debuting the new Adidas Alphabounce 2.

Adidas wants to debut the second iteration with Extra Butter because, legend has it, we outsold competitors by 400 percent. It’ll be a special color, and we’ll have the full pop-up activation based on that story. We’ll Why the ode to downtown New York’s glory days? also do another North Face collab for the holidays Those punk-meeting-hip hop-meeting-pop art subculto follow up our first release last December, which tures inspired what streetwear culture is today. New took social media by storm. My job is to also build York is a mecca for those progressive trends. In the our private label. We’re not a conventional apparel late ’90s and early ’00s, streetwear mixed skate, music, brand; we don’t have seasonal collections. It’s more graffiti and design, which paralleled ’80s in terms of based on when we’re inspired by a theme or story, like Punk up the volume: where we are today. I don’t think streetwear would an obligation to reflect on current affairs. When I was Reebok x Extra Butter be so big today if we didn’t have those movements in 12, I was oblivious to what was going on in the world.

“Workout Plus” in black denim. previous decades.

But younger people today are so engaged with politics and world topics. If we can interact with them on a product level, which The Reebok collab reflects Extra Butter’s roots? This DIY and grungy, we know gets their gears going, we can continue that dialogue. If we can gritty punk aesthetic plays to Extra Butter’s strengths. Our base (Lower influence and inspire them to work as a community, great.

East Side) was New York’s hard core scene. It fits us. We’re all native New Yorkers, many of us from Long Island, and there’s a huge hardcore Where do you envision Extra Butter in five years? The bigger we get, scene there as well. It’s a true inspiration today. the more we get to knock down doors for new opportunities. I would love, for example, to work with directors and movie studios to provide What exactly is the state of street fashion these days? I think DIY advanced screenings and hold Q&A panels to inspire filmmakers. Or to and personalization is where we see fashion evolving toward. It’s more create our own intramural sports leagues and provide customers ‘friends taking what is trendy and tweaking it to make it your own and maximize and family’ jerseys that become the holy grail of a fashion piece. That self-expression. Social media is a double-edged sword in that it brings a way, Extra Butter ends up being a lifestyle brand and not just a retailer. global community together, but it can also create a hive-like mentality.

What’s the greatest sneaker of all time? The Nike Infrared Air Max Why are you a believer in brick-and-mortar retailing? It’s our con90 is such a solid silhouette. You can wear it with pretty much anything. fidence in being able to connect with consumers, give them experience It’s very reminiscent of the early years of Nike. Plus, the infrared color activations and great service. Coming from a mom-and-pop store, it is clean and classic. That particular coral/orange pop was never seen on just makes sense to me. I walk into store, they recognize me by my shoes before. It’s since becomes part of the Nike running DNA. It says face, know the last thing I bought, educate me on new product and it’s a lot to unofficially own a color.

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