Footwear Plus | December 2021

DECEMBER 2021 VOL 31 • ISSUE 10 • $10

CHIC LOOKS THAT WORK ON AND OFF THE CLOCK ON A MISSION HOW MINNETONKA AIMS TO DO THE RIGHT THINGS MADE IN THE SUEDE PUMA’S ICONIC SILHOUETTE STEPS INTO OUR STYLE HALL OF FAME BLUES CLUES GUESS WHAT THE COOL MEN’S NEUTRAL IS

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DISCOVER THE BØRN COLLECTIONS Every season, we make high-quality shoes that feel as good as they look. With artistic touches, unparalleled craftsmanship, exquisite materials and our patented Opanka hand-stitching technique, we design shoes to satisfy the demands of every lifestyle.

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DECEMBER 2021 F E AT U R E S 10 Doing the Right Things Jori Miller Sherer, president of Minnetonka, on how several longterm, company-altering initiatives are already paying big dividends.

By Greg Dutter 16 Ode to the Suede From hoop stars to hip-hop fans to skaters to creatives of all stripes, the Puma Suede has held center court of sneaker cool for six decades.

By Greg Dutter 22 Blue Notes Deep tones of the new neutral strike a chord.

By Ann Loynd Burton 24 Hire Power The new business casual extends off the clock with loafer silhouettes, chic slides and power pumps.

By Ann Loynd Burton

Caroline Diaco President/Group Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Emily Beckman Associate Editor Kathy Passero Editor at Large Ann Loynd Burton Contributing Editor Melodie Jeng Tim Regas Marcy Swingle Contributing Photographers ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Laurie Guptil Production Manager Kathy Wenzler Circulation Director

D E PA RT M E N T S 4 Editor’s Note

Catherine Rosario Office Manager Mike Hoff Digital Director

6 This Just In: Gucci Show 8 Scene & Heard 19 A Note to My Younger Self 34 Shoe Salon 36 Upclose Comfort 38 This Just In: NYC Kicks

WAINSCOT MEDIA Carroll Dowden Chairman Mark Dowden President & CEO Steven J. Resnick Vice President & CFO

40 Last Shot OFFICES

On cover: Rockport leather loafers with snakeskin print vamps and stacked block heels.

PA G E

22

Loafer pumps with block heels by Chinese Laundry.

Photography by Trevett McCandliss; Styling by Nancy Campbell; Fashion editor: Ann Loynd Burton; Models: Linnea Turner and Michelle Krumov/ Supreme Mgmt.; hair and makeup: Clelia Bergonzoli/Ray Brown Pro; Photo assistant: Tara Campbell.

ADVERTISING/EDITORIAL

One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com CIRCULATION

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FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Wainscot Media, One Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ, 07656. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage paid at Mahwah, NJ, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48 in the U.S. Rates outside the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.

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E D I TOR’S NOT E

Doing the Impossible

Mission Possible WHILE I WAS never a huge fan of the TV series Mission Impossible—the opening theme song sent my heart pounding and the action-packed episodes gave me agita before bedtime—there was something reassuring about the premise that nothing was impossible. No matter how daunting and dangerous the mission, that crack team of secret government agents dispatched behind the Iron Curtain or to neutralize a Dr. Evil–like upstart in a far-off lair always completed it. You could say the team took to heart the famous Audrey Hepburn quote: “Nothing is impossible. The word itself says, ‘I’m possible.’”

But is nothing impossible? These days I wonder. Even those with Ted Lasso–like levels of can-do optimism probably have serious doubts about whether the world can overcome its myriad hot-button megaproblems. The seemingly impossible mission of addressing Global Warming is demoralizing enough. (Can’t we just agree to agree on a plan?) Then, there’s the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic, where we seem to be fighting more with each other than with the virus itself.

Hopes of eradication are fading—and the dismal possibility that Covid-19 will become endemic are increasing. The vaccines might have created a false positive about their ability to protect everyone who received them, but the fact that they were developed in record time and made available worldwide at a speed like never before should be a rallying cry for us humans: The seemingly impossible became possible yet again. I still (want to) believe.

Meanwhile, in our little corner of the world, the pandemic continues to generate big problems—ones that can seem insurmountable at times. For example, the epic supply chain woes.

Shipping containers have become an impossible game of Tetris.

In hindsight, it’s not surprising that a worldwide lockdown would disrupt the flow of goods. But some industry experts predict things might run smoothly again until this summer or later. That means the people assigned to solve this mission really have their work cut out for them. Of course, where there are millions of sales to be made, there is always a way. And it isn’t just our industry trying to nudge those ships to the docks; the entire world of commerce

wants to get things moving again. Money talks—and a ton of it moves container ships. The optimist in me believes the flow of goods will resume sooner rather than later.

Of course, monumental industry-wide problems often become magnified as they reach individual companies and, eventually, individual employees tasked with trying to solve them. It can be a scary and stressful job, but somebody’s got to do it, right? Some have no alternative but to “choose to accept this mission.” Take Elena Brennan, designer and owner of Bus Stop Shoe Boutique and the writer of this month’s A Note to My Younger Self (p. 19).

As a small business owner, Brennan warns her not much younger self that her entire world is about to be terrifyingly upended. She confesses to many sleepless nights, soul searching and countless what-if scenarios about the business she lovingly built over 14 years.

What if it’s suddenly all over? There is no pandemic playbook, yet Brennan’s heartfelt letter reveals—spoiler alert—how she adapted her business and came through her mission impossible. It’s an inspiration to us all.

Then there’s the story of Minnetonka’s mission impossible—one that the 75-year-old, family-owned company has embraced. It has nothing to do with the pandemic directly—although that has been challenging, too—says President Jori Miller Sherer, the subject of our Q&A (p. 10). Minnetonka’s latest mission is to formally address its appropriation of Native American culture. Miller Sherer believes it’s the biggest and most important mission the company will ever face. Minnetonka’s comprehensive plan addressing appropriation goes far beyond a one-time donation. This is a companywide cultural metamorphosis. It’s about doing the right thing.

Miller Sherer’s candor about what led to this shift is refreshing, as are the extensive steps the brand is taking to meet its new goals.

And unlike those 50-minute Mission Impossible episodes, this mission is open-ended: Miller Sherer believes the company can continue to learn and improve.

On that note, so long 2021. You were no 2020 in terms of abject fear and despair, but you sure left room for improvement. Here’s to a brighter, more prosperous 2022 for us all! May you complete any impossible missions you choose—or are forced—to accept successfully! Cue theme song…

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

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THIS JUST IN

Gucci Goes Hollywood The fashion house’s Love Parade show enlisted A-list celebrities and models, transforming the Walk of Fame into a catwalk. Five stars! Photography by Tim Regas 6 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2021

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SCENE & HEARD

Industry Veteran Greg Tunney to Lead Manitobah Mukluks product at Timberland as Chief Product Officer, and Aaron Carpenter, IT’S AN OPPORTUNITY he couldn’t pass up. Greg Tunney, most former Chief Marketing Officer of The North Face, who will serve in recently global president of Wolverine Worldwide, is now CEO of the same capacity.

Manitobah Mukluks, which is under a new ownership agreement Then there’s the financial muscle brought by Endeavour. The firm between the Montreal Lake Cree Nation and Seattle-based investment has a track record of being the first outside investor in privately held firm Endeavour Capital. companies, providing capital and support to existing management teams Tunney, who had spent the past 18 months working with numerous so they can achieve their full visions. “We are the first one in their latest private equity firms advising on potential footwear acquisitions, was round of funding, and they want to invest in other footwear companies open to “one last rodeo,” but there were a handful of requirements that in this round,” Tunney says. Adds Bradaigh Wagner, a managing director had to be met first. 1. Work with good people. 2. Partner with a private at Endeavour: “Manitobah Mukluks is an exceptional equity firm willing to invest in the business and not company doing exceptional work. We’re honored to “leverage the hell out of it.” 3. Sales, marketing and partner with Sean, Montreal Lake Cree Nation and product headquarters based near home in Park City, the entire team at Manitobah Mukluks to help them UT. 4. Manage a brand with a strong social impact navigate the growth of their brand and the preservapurpose. The Manitobah Mukluks opportunity tion of their important social mission.” ticked all the boxes.

Since 1997, Manitobah Mukluks has grown from “Very few brands have a real purpose; the majority a single store in Manitoba, Canada to a global brand are in business to make transactions,” Tunney says. sold in more than 50 countries. Its luxury shearling “Manitobah Mukluks has a real brand purpose that footwear (average SRPs are $200-plus) combines makes a social impact in the lives of Indigenous traditional and modern design with technological communities each and every day.” innovations. Many of the styles are rooted from the Founded in 1997 by Sean McCormick (now Chief past 10,000 years of inspiration from the Indigenous Impact Officer and a member of the company’s Board communities, but Tunney also credits the team for of Directors), Manitobah Mukluks is known for the doing a “wonderful job” interpreting the past with social impact it provides through numerous commodern styling that’s relevant, commercial and munity programs, including its Storyboots School, authentic. which teaches traditional mukluk- and moccasinAlong those lines, Tunney says the Manitobah making skills. The company also prides itself on Mukluks target customer is men and women, around Indigenous employment and vendors, in addition 40 years of age, outdoor-inspired and desire authentic to its partnerships with Indigenous artists. “The brands with purpose. As to where those customers fact that the brand was created by the Indigenous will be able to shop the brand, distribution will be community and over 50 percent of the employees very focused to start: Dillard’s, Farfetch, Neiman are Indigenous, including many artisans and craftsMarcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom and Zappos. man who bring authenticity to the product every The reason for the select distribution, Tunney says, day, is inspiring,” Tunney says, noting that having is mainly due to current manufacturing capacities grown up in Arizona, home to some of the largest and the need to find additional factory partners for Native American communities, he learned early on the new collections. “Even if we wanted to open to respect those communities. “I’m excited to be able 1,000 independents out of the gate, we don’t have to give back. I also love the premium products that the production capacity to do so right now,” he Manitobah Mukluks creates,” he adds. says, noting Manitobah Mukluks owns its factories Speaking of which, Tunney says the immediate in Vietnam. “As we get more production opened focus for 2022 will be on new product creation.

Canada cool by Manitobah Mukluks; up and can guarantee deliveries, we’ll open more “We’ve brought in a best-in-class product team new CEO Greg Tunney. accounts. Besides, the worst thing you can do is that will be launching three major new categories: promise somebody delivery and then don’t deliver.”

Modern Mukluks (athletic-inspired bottoms with traditional moc toe In the meantime, Tunney is brimming with great expectations for uppers), Mountain Mukluks (functional hiker fashion looks) and an Manitobah Mukluks—an excitement generated by new ownership, new outdoor-inspired slippers,” he says. “We’ll create more new products this investment and new offices in downtown Park City that, when completed, year than the company has in the past 10 years combined.” Helping in will feature a flagship store. What’s not to love? “I’m doing what I love, this effort is newly appointed board member, Connie Rishwain, former which is my passion for the footwear industry,” he says. “I’m working president of Ugg. “Connie brings a lot of expertise and experience to the with really good people in a purpose-driven brand that keeps giving premium shearling business. I don’t believe anyone else in the world back to the community. It’s such an amazing story that when people has the track record and knowledge that she does,” Tunney says, adding learn about it, they really desire to be part of this brand.” that other key team members include Kenny Beaulieu, former head of

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SCENE & HEARD

Propét Positioned for Growth Under New Ownership

Clarks Originals Dishes ‘Sweet’ Collab CLARKS ORIGINALS ALREADY has a Greek diner-sized menu of mouthwatering collabs and related drop events to its credit, but the one just cooked up with Sweet Chick, a cult Brooklyn-based chicken and waffles chain, is loaded with many firsts. Those include: the Clarks Originals x Sweet Chick Wafflebee making its debut over a week-long tour around Los Angeles, in a co-branded food truck, that culminated at ComplexCon, a two-day pop culture festival held, last month, in Long Beach, CA. The activation even featured Clarks’ first-ever Wallabee hunt, where ComplexCon attendees, following clues social media clues, searched for a hidden, one-of-a-kind pair created by Dominic Chambrone, a.k.a. the Shoe Surgeon.

“It marked the first time Clarks Originals exhibited at the festival, and we were the only retail brand to do so outdoors in the First We Feast Food Lagoon,” says Tara McRae, chief marketing officer, noting that ComplexCon served as the ideal setting because it draws young creatives from around the world. “The style-forward, experiential elements offered there were a way for us to bring a new experience to our fans, where they got a first look at the Wafflebee collection, plus the chance to take home a pair, along with exclusive on-site giveaways of custom Sweet Chick collectables.” Not to be overlooked, fans could also get a serving of Sweet Chick’s ice cream in a waffle cone.

As for the Wafflebee, a play on the brand’s classic Wallabee silhouette, the limited-edition style (SRP: $200) comes in light and dark brown suedes, embossed with a waffle pattern and dusted with light green and pink speckles inspired by Sweet Chick’s house-made herb and raspberry butters. Pretty tasty. The collection is available this month in select national retailers and at clarksusa.com.

“It’s crafted with the premium materials and attention to detail that Clarks Originals is known for, with a nod to Sweet Chick’s famous Chicken & Waffles,” McRae says, adding that the chain has the exact ingredients Clarks is looking for in a collab partner. “We wanted to partner with the beloved bicoastal chain, known for delicious creations and devoted customers, to develop something wholly unique and identifiable that our shared fan base would appreciate,” she says.

“They’re an incredibly creative and collaborative partner, and that shows through in the final product.”

WITH THE DISRUPTION comes opportunity, so says Rick Wang, president of Propét, the Auburn, WA-based sizes-and-widths specialty comfort brand recently acquired in a joint venture between Aiglon Capital and Merit Capital Partners. Wang says the deal provides a financial shot in the arm that will benefit the business now and going forward.

“In the near-term, our new ownership provides a solid footing to build upon what we’ve started,” says Wang, who was named president in 2015 and has been with the company since 1998. “But the real excitement is around the future. The Propét brand is very well received by those who already know us, and now we’ll be able to broaden our presence. Our new ownership will provide new insight into all facets of where and how we can grow our brand.”

That includes more investment in infrastructure to best serve its growing customer base. “We also plan to increase marketing and advertising at national and local levels to drive traffic to both our ecommerce and traditional retail partners, emphasizing the size inclusive nature of our brand,” Wang says. In addition, the message will be that Propét, founded in 1985, is much more than about sizes-and-widths. “We want everyone to know that sizes and widths aren’t the only differentiation of a Propét shoe,” he confirms. “We’re committed to offering more features and benefits—all at an unexpected value.”

Wang says achieving greater brand recognition requires a commitment to sell-through marketing, including co-op arrangements, store events and a fully accessible sales team.

Such investments are what its retailers deserve and will now get more of, he adds.

Meanwhile, Propét’s investment in a larger assortment Rick Wang, president, Propét is already paying dividends, as evidenced by its solid 2021. “It’s been a great year overall,” Wang reports. “We’ve seen a return of consumers to brick-and-mortar, which for a sizes-and-widths brand is very important. And we have many new retail partnerships this year that have been very successful. It’s also quite encouraging to hear customers’ excitement about our new styles in work/safety, athleisure and outdoor.” In fact, Propét’s retail sales are up 50 percent over 2020, Wang says.

Propét’s outlook for 2022 is equally bullish, despite supply chain woes. Progress, though, has even been made on that front. “We’ve dedicated many resources to this, and I’m happy to say that we’re now receiving more inventory than is going out,” Wang says, adding that the company’s ability to increase production and purchasing will carry into future development, marketing and sales. “We’re approaching 2022 with great enthusiasm and energy! I’m confident that we’ll look back this time next year and share another year of growth for Propét.”

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Q&A

BY GREG

DUTTER

DO THE RIGHT THINGS

J o r i M i l l e r S h e r e r, p r e s i d e n t o f M i n n e t o n k a , o n h o w s e v e r a l r e c e n t l y i n t r o d u c e d long-term, company-altering initiatives are already paying big dividends.

WHEN JORI MILLER SHERER was promoted to president of Minnetonka in December 2019 the world was quite a different place. In fact, the fourth-generation family member of the 75-year-old company joined her father, CEO David Miller, in the C-suite with a relatively modest initial goal: to meet with every employee individually to get the lay of the land. Miller Sherer wasn’t looking to reinvent the wheel. Former president Scott Sessa, the first non-family member in the company’s history to hold that position, had moved on after a successful run, and the new president wanted to focus first on what was working well (slippers) and getting everybody rowing together before formulating any strategic growth plans. There was no rush. Minnetonka’s business was solid. Life was good.

Besides, Miller Sherer had plenty on her plate in those early weeks as president. Another busy selling season was fast approaching—one that would require her to attend the usual gauntlet of trade shows as well as meet with key accounts across the country. Just squeezing in meetings with the company’s approximately 90 employees (between the main office and warehouse) soon proved challenging. Nonetheless, Miller Sherer, a good multi-tasker who honed her skills during the previous decade working in the company’s sales and product divisions, made decent headway with her meetings as another long Minnesota winter wore on into March.

Then the world changed. The Covid-19 pandemic hit and even the best-laid plans were put on hold as management went into crisis mode to keep the company operating amid a nationwide lockdown.

The shock was all too real.

“Who can even remember a time before Covid,” Miller Sherer says. “Overnight, retail basically just shut down and half of our sales evaporated.” But the company pulled together and responded to every curveball thrown its way, she says. “We completely changed how we do business—shifting to a hybrid work format, reorganizing our

warehouse so our employees could be safe and dealing with the ongoing global supply chain crisis,” she says. “For us, it’s absolutely been the most challenging two years in our history.”

Dealing with the initial fallout from the pandemic was tough enough. Then, shortly into the crisis, George Floyd was murdered in Minnetonka’s backyard of

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Q&A Minneapolis. It brought more disruption, as well as soul searching. For Miller Sherer, Floyd’s death was an ugly reminder of the inequities that still exist in this country. It also prompted the company to formally acknowledge its appropriation of Native American culture. “Our family had been talking about doing this for years,” Miller Sherer says. “But we were paralyzed by the fear of taking the first step—the fear of a negative backlash.”

Not anymore. Miller Sherer says her family decided the positives of addressing the issue far outweighed the negatives. And they decided it was best to be proactive, especially in an increasingly woke world. “There wasn’t some big viral moment, thankfully,” Miller Sherer says, noting that the management team is grateful it had time to listen and learn before crafting its comprehensive plan.

The more she and the team looked into the issue and came to understand it, the more convinced she was that making changes was the right thing to do.

She credits frequent meetings with representatives of the Native American community for helping to shine a light on how appropriation negatively impacts them. After the team did their research, there was no going back. “Once you start to understand what appropriation means, you can’t unlearn that,” Miller Sherer says. “That’s why being genuine about this is very important to us.”

In the summer of 2020, Minnetonka posted a “long overdue” apology on its website to the Native American community for its appropriation.

That fall, Minnetonka posted a plan to recognize and support Native American communities going forward. It also altered its corporate logo, removing Native American–inspired symbols above and below the letter “T.” Then, after more listening and learning, on Indigenous Peoples’ Day of this year (Oct. 11), Minnetonka announced a comprehensive plan titled “Our Commitment to the Native American Community.” Highlights include the hiring of Adrienne Benjamin as the company’s Reconciliation Advisor. An artist and community activist who is Anishinaabe and a member of the Mille Lacs Band of Ojibwe, Benjamin has been integral in crafting Minnetonka’s plan—one that involves five key commitments to the Native American community.

Those commitments are: 1. Making a concerted effort to improve diversity, equity and inclusion of underrepresented groups at Minnetonka. 2. Updating the language used in telling Minnetonka’s story and describing its products so as to provide greater transparency and more direct acknowledgment of Native American influences across its website, packaging and communication channels. 3. Collaborating with local Native American artists/designers on collections. (Benjamin will be the first, with a capsule collection launching this month.) 4. Seeking out more Native American–owned businesses as partners for everything from footwear materials to packaging to paper products. 5. Supporting Native American organizations doing important work in Minnesota and beyond.

Indeed, Minnetonka’s plan is a far cry from the

O F F T H E C U FF What are you reading?

Burnout: The Secret to Unlocking the Stress Cycle, which is very revealing. I’m also reading Daisy Jones & The Six. Do you qualify as burned out?

I’m still finding that out. But raising two kids (ages 2 and 4) in a pandemic along with a busy job has certainly not been relaxing.

In what way has the pandemic changed your life most?

The hybrid work model has changed my life dramatically.

On the bright side, I’ve been able to see my kids much more

than I would have. Before getting vaccinated, I was in the office about once a week and now it’s more like two to three times a week. But I don’t know if it will ever be 100 percent like before, and that’s not necessarily a bad thing.

What was the last show you streamed? Coco on Disney+.

What might people be surprised to know about you?

I’m a huge Harry Potter fan.

What did you want to be when you grew up? An editor in book publishing.

What is your favorite hometown memory? I’m from Minneapolis and it’s of walks around Lake of the Isles with friends and family.

usual one-time financial contribution companies tend to make as an apology. Their new approach is not a publicity stunt or a smokescreen, Miller Sherer affirms. The plan is a reset of the company’s corporate culture and outlines a “concrete” commitment to recognizing and supporting Native American communities, regardless of whether that is a hotbutton issue now or in the future. “This is a ‘forever showing up better with this community’ plan, because it’s been part of the products that we have always made and we will continue to make,” she says.

There’s even more focus on the “right thing to do” at Minnetonka. Miller Sherer proudly states that this year the company has made sustainability a major initiative. Efforts include this winter’s launch of an eco-friendly slippers collection as well as Minnetonka’s first independent audit, which will serve as an annual sustainability report with target goals to lessen the company’s carbon footprint going forward. Once again, Miller Sherer says this isn’t a public relations ploy or, in this case, a green screen. Minnetonka is weaving a more sustainable business model into the fabric of daily operations, wherever and whenever feasible. “Whenever we do something, we do it because it matters and we want to be genuine about it,” Miller Sherer says. “Our eco-friendly slippers, for example, aren’t going to be a case where the tag is made of recycled paper

What’s the best piece of business advice you’ve ever received? Success is not the key to happiness. Happiness is the key to success.

What are you most proud of?

My husband and kids, and how we’re building our family.

What is your favorite word?

Essential.

What is your least favorite word? Literally.

What is your motto? “Being organized is being at rest.” It’s more aspirational, as I’m not always very good at it. (Laughs.)

and that’s it. Our commitment to becoming a more sustainable company goes way beyond that.”

Ushering in transformative company initiatives while handling everyday challenges requires balance and stamina. Miller Sherer admits that it can get pretty hectic at times, especially in an ongoing pandemic. But Minnetonka’s North Star is trying to do the right thing—and that provides solid footing as well as a rejuvenating sense of greater purpose. It also feels good. “We’re trying to be a positive force,” Miller Sherer says. “And, on a personal level, I know my kids will at least grow up with a totally different understanding of Minnetonka—starting with our relationship with Native American communities—as compared to the one I had. I’m very proud of that.”

Might addressing Minnetonka’s appropriation of Native American culture be the biggest undertaking the company has made in its history?

Definitely. I honestly think working on this topic is probably the most important thing I’ll do in my career. It’s a very big topic and conversation, and this is not a temporary effort.

What has been the feedback since announcing the plan in October?

We haven’t had a ton of retailer feedback, but

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ZIGINO

THE

ART & CRAFT OF

IMAGINATION awe-inspiring hand-painted leather creations.

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Q&A our sales team has been bringing this up on their calls for at least the last six months. Beyond that, I think the country is becoming more aware of these types of issues in a way that’s very important. And all we can try and do is show up better as a company and try and do the right thing. Over time, people will be able to tell if we’re genuine or not. That’s fine. We’re a 75-year-old company, and we’re in this for the long haul. We’ll show that our commitment over time is real. And I think what we’ve learned from the recent press coverage following our announcement is that people see the genuineness of it. The reaction has been very positive overall, which is very encouraging. Of course, we’ll make some mistakes because we’re not perfect, but we’ll continue to do our best to keep listening and learning, which we still have a lot to do. In the meantime, our appropriation acknowledgement was long overdue, and we’re bringing the conversation into the open now because we feel like it was our responsibility not to be silent.

What do you say to the cancel crowd who may question the genuineness and/or timing of this initiative?

Trolls are going to troll, right? And while there’s a faction with a go woke or go broke mentality, to them I say we’re going to do what we think is right, and that’s all anyone can do. We care about issues over the long term and we care about building strong relationships. An overriding goal of ours is to try and do the right thing, even when it’s difficult.

Even with genuine intentions, there are risks, right?

Absolutely. I think there’s a risk any time you wade into waters like this, and we had no idea what the reaction would be once we announced our plan. Our being paralyzed by the fear of a negative backlash was real and had been for a while. And even though our appropriation wasn’t because of maliciousness—it

was ignorance—it’s doesn’t matter, because in the end it’s not okay. Once you begin to understand what appropriation is, you can’t unlearn that. We’re doing this because we believe it’s the right thing to do.

How does this initiative go above and beyond, say, a financial donation?

A huge part of our initiative is about developing meaningful relationships, and we’ve met absolutely wonderful people during this whole process. They are not tokens to us; they’re very valuable relationships. We’ve learned so much from them, and we’re grateful we had time to develop relationships with members of the Native American community in crafting our plan. Our commitment to do business with more Native American-owned businesses and hiring Native Americans is already affecting a lot of parts in our business in a positive way. And when it comes to artist collaborations, the art is what we’ve appropriated so it makes sense that we’d have a special emphasis on that. We hope that collaborating with various Native American artists shines a light on them, and it won’t be a one-time thing.

Has this effort given you and the company a sense of added purpose?

Yes, which I think is really important. One aspect that has connected us deeply with Adrian Benjamin, our Reconciliation Advisor, is her belief in systematic change. That can be very hard to achieve. It can also be a very emotional and guilt-ridden process. But I’m just not sure what’s more worthwhile? It doesn’t mean I feel warm and fuzzies all day, but I know this effort is extremely important.

Not only can this effort improve Minnetonka’s moral compass, could it improve the products it makes going forward as well?

Sure, but we’ve had zero conversations about whether this effort will improve our sales or not. That’s not a factor.

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Specialists in Indoor/Outdoor Slippers and Casual Footwear

11/19/21 11:15 AM

It could also help attract talent as people want to work for companies that they believe align with their morals.

I totally agree. It will make us a better company in that way, as well.

Why is now also the time to address Minnetonka’s sustainability efforts?

The consumer has changed so much on this topic. It’s an expectation that companies are doing their best on this issue, and they want to know that they are. For example, our boxes have been made of recycled materials for many years, but we’ve never talked about that. We just felt that, yes, we should of course do that but we don’t need to shout about it. Well, now consumers want to know these things. I also think a lot of companies are dabbling in sustainability and, on the one hand, anything more sustainable is a benefit, but we want our efforts to be comprehensive and transparent.

Hence, the annual sustainability report we’re working on this year. Like with our addressing our appropriation, we’re committed to this effort for the long haul. This is another forever initiative.

What are some of the features of the new eco-friendly collection?

Features include uppers made from recycled water bottles, rice husk incorporate into the soles and recycled packaging materials. The goal, going forward, is to incorporate some of these materials across our line. We’re learning a lot about best practices, but we’re by no means experts. This wasn’t part of our founding mission, like other companies who we admire.

We have a lot to learn, especially with regards to sourcing. But we’re diving in. My cousin, who works on the production side, has been very involved in our sustainability efforts, along with our designer, director of marketing, myself, my dad…it’s all of us.

Alongside these two major initiatives is the elephant in the room: the pandemic. How is Minnetonka handling those related challenges?

This year has been very strong for us for a couple of key reasons. 1. A lot of people are still working remotely and, as such, slippers remain a strong category for us. And while the supply chain issues have affected us, we feel we’re in a pretty good position as our team has worked very hard to navigate it as best it can. We’re working with freight companies, we’re really close to our factory partners and internally everyone is touching these orders many, many times. We feel confident that we’ve been in a good inventory position this season, which we know not everybody is. I credit that, in part, to our ability to build inventory a little earlier and more liberally.

So not a lot of shipments languishing on container ships in the Pacific?

Not really. I mean, we do have some and we’re crossing all our fingers and toes that shipments will arrive on time. But we’ve done a pretty good job overall. Everybody who ships through our warehouse is in pretty decent shape, whereas some of our big customers that ship direct aren’t in as good a position. But we don’t have control over those shipments. And they’re the ones we’re more worried about because that could negatively impact 2022 for us. How much might get carried over because those retailers didn’t get their shipments in time?

Any sense when the supply chain issues might be resolved?

From what I’m hearing, next summer will be the earliest when things might get better.

Might 2021 have been actually more challenging than 2020?

That’s a tough question. Part of me thinks: Are we just frogs in a pot and don’t realize it’s about to boil? It’s hard to say. Fortunately, we have a great team and even though times are very challenging, when you’re really confidant in your team and everybody is working together, you at least feel like you have a shot.

Will the industry ever go back to a pre-pandemic normal in any way?

I don’t think things will all be exactly as they are now, but we won’t >39

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s t y l e h a l l o f fa m e

E CCO Y U C ATA N

ODE TO THE SUEDE Fr o m h o o p s t a r s t o h i p - h o p f a n s t o s k a t e r s t o c r e a t i v e s of all stripes, the Puma Suede has held center court of sneaker cool for six decades and counting. By Greg Dutter

DURING MY ELEMENTARY school years, growing up on the mean streets of Maplewood, NJ (think Mayberry), all I had ever known and worn were canvas kicks. The neighborhood kids, a.k.a. Park Road Panthers, sported lo- and hi-top versions of Pro-Keds or Converse Chuck Taylors in black or white with a sprinkling of navy blue mixed into the crowd. (For historical accuracy, a few kids wore dreaded “Pathmark Specials,” which were brand-less Chucks knockoffs sold at our local supermarket of the same name—a parent-induced sneaker shame that surely has left emotional scars to this day!)

This was my BS (Before Suede) sneaker phase. Because, around 5th grade, my world forever changed. That’s when I first caught sight of a new sneaker being worn by some of the older (cooler) kids in town. They were rebels and early adopters. They were skateboarders—scruffy, wiry guys who hung around our railroad station, surfing its supremely smooth asphalt hill and doing

board tricks on the steps and curbs day after day. The fact that the Alphas of this heavily tagged “Dogtown” hangout were sporting these new kicks—one wore a lush red pair while the other rocked Celtic green—fueled my belief that these were shoes I had to have. The vivid colors were mouthwatering—the red style looked like the inside of a red velvet cake—and the almost terrycloth-like suede upper was a tactile revelation begging to be held. I did a little research. I asked my two older brothers about these cool, new shoes I’d seen. Being older brothers, they knew right away what I was referring to.

They approved. Case closed.

Little did I, in my narrow world, realize just how hip this particular sneaker already was. It already had a rich history that dated back a decade or so. The shoe, in its original incarnation, had enjoyed a memorable debut at the 1968 Mexico City Summer Olympics when African-American athletes Tommie Smith

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and John Carlos each raised a black-gloved fist during the 200-meter medal ceremony as the U.S. national anthem played. They made their iconic Black Power salute while wearing what were then called Puma “Crack” sneakers in black and white suede, featuring a recently introduced shell outsole that—as fate would soon have it—was suitable for basketball.

Fast forward to 1972, when a variation of the Crack became the Puma Clyde.

Named after New York Knicks star Walt “Clyde” Frazier, it was the first-ever NBA player-endorsed shoe. (Eat your heart out, Michael Jordan/Nike.) Puma and the smooth-talking, -playing and -dressing legend were the trailblazers in what is now the multi-billion industry we all know and love. What’s more, Frazier is the godfather of streetwear. His off-the-court looks are legendary.

And while the Clyde was technically a different shoe (it featured more padding), there is no Clyde without the Suede. Because as sneaker lore goes, Frazier wanted a lo-cut shoe in a wide range of colors—a different color for every game, in fact. (Rumor has it more than 390 colors were made.) Well, it just so happens suede is easier to dye. And that rich signature material has become the shoe’s most enduring feature.

The subsequent crowning of the Suede style fits perfectly—and has ever since.

Puma pulled out all the stops marking the recent 50th anniversary of its iconic Suede with a series of colorful collabs. From top: Barbie, Haribo (gummy bears), Sesame Street (Cookie Monster) and Brooklyn streetwear store, KidSuper.

SUEDE SENSATION The Suede was off to an auspicious start, but no one could foresee, as the ’80s dawned, just how big a role it would play. It was around this time that B-boys and Flygirls adopted the shoe. Soon it was de rigueur.

Most notably, hip-hop legends the New York City Breakers and Rock Steady Crew sported the Suede as their breakdancing style of choice, reportedly swearing by its malleable outsole and accommodating suede upper.

More importantly, it solidified the Suede’s status as a certified “street” shoe.

Michael Greene, a.k.a. Operator Emz and confessed sneaker obsessive, recalls the Suede’s newfound status. It was circa 1983 when, at age 12, he scored his first pair—admittedly a little late to the game.

“My first pair were navy on natural,” he says.

“I’d match them with my gray Levi’s shrinkto-fit jeans—I felt like a million bucks. To this day, I wear versions of them.” Greene ranks the Suede as No. 3 on his all-time best sneakers list, behind the Nike Air Force 1 and Adidas Pro Model. He cites two keys to the Suede’s long-running success. “The simplicity and the cost keep the masses rocking them, and the colorways keep the streets rocking them,” he says, noting a recent favorite take was the Alife x Puma States “Scarlet Snake” collab.

Sean Williams, a.k.a. the SneakerVangelisT and a SOLEcial studies instructor, says the Suede’s style versatility made it click with the hip-hop nation.

“The Suede is just such an easy sneaker to make personal to your taste,” he says. “It was embraced early by the pioneers of hip-hop for that reason. Nike sneakers were adopted into hip-hop. Puma Suedes: We there!”

When hip-hop culture burst from its Bronx epicenter and rocketed around the world, the Suede went along for the ride. One of the first stops was England, where the Suede was in high demand but not easy to find. A Highsnobiety article noted that fans sought hook-ups in the U.S. to ship pairs, which led to them initially being re-named Puma States when they were officially released in England not long afterward.

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s t y l e h a l l o f fa m e

rapidly broadening fan base to the hip-hop movement. “As usual, hip-hop becomes the torchbearer for a lot of trends that cross over into other movements,” he says. “Hip-hop pioneers were wearing that shoe heavy, and others followed suit after seeing the proof of concept on how dope they can be with almost any outfit when they were rocked correctly.”

SKATERS’ CHOICE

E CCO Y U C ATA N

avid collector of Pumas since 1992 who now has around 100 pairs in his collection. The year he started collecting is significant because that’s when the Beastie Boys released Check Your Head.

“That’s when the damn broke for me,” Dawson says. “It’s all I skated in, all I wore. I needed every color.” He adds, “I still have those pairs from the ’90s, and they’re still wearable—no crumbled soles or separation! Just classic style that has stood the test of time. As long as they keep releasing dope colorways, that number (in my collection) will keep growing.”

While the Suede is renowned for its variety of colorways, Dejan Pralica, CEO and founder of SoleSavy—a community for all things sneakers that offers everything from news to members-only

The subcultures of hip-hop and skateboarding blended like a great music mashup. In fact, by the late ’80s the two subcultures were mushrooming into the now macro culture of streetwear. Again, the Puma Suede became part of the uniform. And as Grunge music rocked the world and alternative sports went mainstream, skateboarders, snowboarders and BMXers sent the Suede spinning from the inner The Puma Suede #307 collab cities into suburbia and beyond. It is pays homage to legendary one of those rare styles that crosses Black Power saluter demographics, ages and genders with Tommie Smith and the iconic silhouette. equal ease—one that’s perhaps only rivaled by Chuck Taylors.

Isack Fadlon, owner of Sportie LA, confirms the Suede’s long-running and diverse appeal among its customers.

“Since we opened our doors in 1985, the Puma Suede has been a staple for us—a prolific sneaker that transcended any one particular audience,” he says.

In the early ’90s, one of the Suede’s peak periods, the store carried 25 or so color variations, which led to a billboard campaign collaboration that read: “More Pumas than Puma.

Sportie LA.” The extensive range of colors has been key to the shoe’s success, Fadlon says. “I often mardrops—cites a different factor behind the Suede’s vel at how well the Suede takes to different color long-running success. “Like other classics, its lonvariations,” he observes, recalling the search for gevity is in its simple but beautiful design,” he says. one elusive mustard/black colorway that, at the “You can switch the colors and materials up all you time, was available in Canada. “We figured out a want, but it’s still going to be a clean silhouette that way to get those into our store and, as expected, it can be worn for almost any occasion.” The Suede is was a resounding hit.” Another memorable Suede/ both unique and accessible, Pralica adds. “You can Sportie LA moment: Frazier, the streetwear legend always find a clean colorway if you need it, or you himself, did a meet-and-greet with customers in can hunt down unique pairs that are geo-specific,” 2005. “He rolled up in his vintage Rolls-Royce he says. “And accessibility-wise, we’ve seen so many looking dapper,” Fadlon says. “Needless to say, the shoes become out of reach price-wise, but the Suede event was a huge hit.” has remained true, allowing consumers to dictate its Norm Dawson, creator of All These Shoes: A Love popularity, not hype or perceived monetary value.”

Letter to Sneakers (a one-man play about the role sneakers had on one man’s journey to adulthood and self-discovery), notes that another element of THE SUEDE PARADE the Suede’s success is that it transcends genres and Since its second coming in the ’80s and ’90s, the has broken down barriers over the years by being Suede has remained relatively unchanged, aside from on the feet of trendsetters worldwide. In fact, he the many collaborations with fashion, music and remembers the exact moment he first saw the culture icons. That’s not to say, as Puma’s website Suede—in the 1984 movie Beat Street. “I couldn’t notes, that its classic formstrip and spacious panbelieve how dope they looked,” says Dawson, an els haven’t been finetuned. The Suede has dipped

its roomy toe-box into a multitude of materials, including leather, canvas, hemp, snakeskin, wool and denim—all of which have complimented one of the most voluminous colorway libraries in footwear history.

In 2018, for the Suede’s 50th anniversary, Puma issued more than 37 exclusive styles to celebrate the iconic shoe. Williams singles out the MCM 50th Anniversary version as one of his all-time favorites, giving a shout-out to fashion icon Misa Hylton for the design. “My second all-time favorite are the Puma Suede Mid x Bobbito Garcia ‘Where’d You Get Those’ that were created to coincide with the 10th anniversary of Garcia’s iconic [sneaker culture] book by the same name,” Williams says.

Dawson cites the MIJ x The Collectors Suede in magnolia for the 50th Anniversary as a standout. Also “amazing” are the MTV Forever Fresh models, as well as the MC Shan, the Doug E. Fresh and the Big Daddy Kane Suedes, all of the Yo! MTV Raps collaboration.

Pralica singles out the Puma x Fenty Creeper with Rihanna, first released in 2015, as a memorable moment in Suede and footwear history. “It was a trend that stuck around for a while and felt authentic and accessible to her fans,” he says.

Another contributing factor to the Suede’s longevity that mustn’t be overlooked is what’s it not, says Matt Powell, NPD Group’s senior industry sports advisor. “One of the keys is it’s not a Nike shoe,” he says, noting that the silhouette ranks in the top all-time sneaker styles. “Like most retro icons, shoes go in and out of style but never go completely away.”

Fadlon wholeheartedly agrees, noting the Suede is to Puma what the Chuck Taylor is to Converse and the Superstar is to Adidas. “There are certain sneakers that are timeless, and the Suede is one just of those,” he says. “It’s one that is as fashionable and relevant today as it was years ago, and that is a testament to its classic style.” The veteran retailer adds, “The Suede is one of a handful of styles that will always have a place in our collection—and our hearts.”

Indeed, the world’s love affair with the Suede lives on—and plenty more collabs are planned in the years ahead. For example, 2020’s debut of the Puma Suede #307, a limited-edition style that celebrated the legacy of both Tommie Smith and the Suede. Only 307 numbered pairs were created—an homage to Smith’s Olympic number. Crafted with premium Italian leather, Puma stated at the release: “The timeless pair is made to last a lifetime—because true classics are for all time.” •

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A N OT E T O M Y Y OU N G E R S E L F

A NEW ROUTE TO SUCCESS Elena Brennan, designer and founder of Bus Stop Shoe Boutique, reflects on how the pandemic upended her life but not her drive to succeed.

Dear Elena, NEVER IN YOUR wildest dreams would you have believed, as a little girl, that you’d experience a pandemic in your lifetime. In your mind, those were terrifying tragedies of bygone eras. Remember at the Hornsey School for Girls, when you learned all about The Great Plague of London, which began in 1665 and, in just 18 months, killed an estimated 100,000 people—almost a quarter of your hometown’s population! That was one scary lesson for a child to absorb. Now, here you are, at the end of 2021, and your happy life as a shoe designer and the founder of Bus Stop Shoe Boutique in Philadelphia, proudly in its 14th year, has been upended by another pandemic. It’s been raging for nearly two years. It’s killed millions worldwide. It’s changed your life entirely and forever.

But in February 2020, all seemed normal in the world. You travel to Milan, Italy to attend the Micam show, where you shop the latest Fall/Winter ’20 collections. The day after you return, however, a new virus is all over the news. Specifically, reports about a devastating outbreak in Milan! With the fear of the unknown shaking you to your very core, you self-quarantine for two weeks.

Every night in bed your heart pounds as you fear the worst. A month later it gets scarier.

You are forced to close your store for three months which, as a small business owner, is the scariest thing you have ever done. You have no idea what to expect. Is your livelihood as you know it over?

What happens to your loyal employees?

During lockdown, you spend hours worrying and planning. But planning for what? You don’t really know. There is no pandemic playbook readily available for shoe boutique owners. In the meantime, you commiserate with friends, family and colleagues on how this is affecting you emotionally, physically and financially. Daily life has an eerie edge to it, yet the lockdown is oddly somewhat peaceful too. You reflect often on when you first opened your store and dealt head-on with the Financial Crisis. Those were a scary couple of years filled with many unknowns. But you persevered! It gives you a ray of hope amid this darkness.

Meanwhile, it quickly becomes a virtual world—something that’s been so foreign to you up until this point in your life. Remember after you first moved to Philadelphia, when you actually penned hand-written letters to your family and friends back home? You miss doing that, as so much of daily human interactions is now done through email, texting and video.

But you learn to adapt, communicating and conducting business virtu-

ally with the best of them. You attend virtual seminars, trade shows and workshops. You host virtual shopping events. You encourage customers to buy e-gift cards for future shoe purchases at the boutique (online or eventually in person), using the proceeds to retain your staff. You even throw a virtual party to celebrate Bus Stop’s 14th anniversary! While you had no choice but to run your business virtually, you successfully convert to an online format—without compromising customer service.

Once again, you find a way to succeed! You emerge from lockdown smarter and savvier.

Best of all, Bus Stop is better positioned for success going forward.

Still, the pandemic can hit where it hurts, as your love of travel is put on hold. Remember summer school holidays spent in Cyprus catching up with relatives? That gave you the travel bug where, pre-pandemic, your favorite and frequent destinations included Spain, France, Italy, Australia, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Japan, Africa, Iceland, Lithuania and the Greek Islands. However, as 2022 dawns and vaccines are more widely administered, you hope to hit the road again soon for business and pleasure.

A new year also brings with it designing the latest Bus Stop X collection in collaboration with All Black Footwear. You feel energized to design a new collection—one that features bold and colorful snakeskin print leather uppers. It’s called Anew and symbolizes shedding one’s skin and starting over post-lockdown.

Indeed, a sense of a renewal fills the air. The pandemic is by no means over, but the light at the end of the tunnel doesn’t appear to be a freight train bearing down on you. Looking back and ahead, you are supremely grateful to your loyal customers, whose support means you’ve been able to retain every employee! Speaking of which, you are forever grateful to your team of strong women who help run your business every day.

You couldn’t survive without them! They are true friends.

In parting, keep the faith that this pandemic too shall pass. Hang in there! If you stay optimistic, work hard and, above all, never lose sight of yourself, you will persevere. Last but not least, never take anything in life for granted!

Cheers, Elena P.S. It feels really good to write a letter again.

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BLUE NOTES Deep tones of the new neutral strike a chord.

Florsheim

Rockport

Twisted X

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Geox

Allen Edmonds

Ron White

Spring

Photography by Trevett McCandliss Fashion Editor: Ann Loynd Burton

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HIRE

THE NEW BUSINESS CASUAL EXTENDS OFF THE CLOCK WITH LOAFER SILHOUETTES, CHIC SLIDES AND POWER PUMPS.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS STYLING BY NANCY CAMPBELL

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Lug-soled platform loafers

by Vagabond Shoemakers.

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From top: Patrizia tweed flat with decorative chain; matte croc print chunky loafer by Ron White.

Opposite: Leather slip-ons with stud moc toe detail by Bos. & Co.; pointy toe platform loafers by Bernardo.

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Gabor suede leather flats with tortoiseshell buckles; block heeled leather loafers with handcrafted stitching

by Rag & Co. Opposite: Lizard-print slingback pumps with block heels by 27 Edit.

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From top: Earth Origins flat with subtle gore detailing; sporty loafer with EVA outsole by Geox; moccasin-inspired suede mule by Enjoiya. Opposite: Seychelles d’Orsay leather pump with subtle wedge.

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Canvas and croc-print leather slides by Naturalizer.

Opposite: All Black block-heel mule with tonal leather tongue reminiscent of tuxedo tails.

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Loafer pumps with block heels by Chinese Laundry. Opposite, left to right: Chunky lug-soled loafers by Franco Sarto; Rag & Co slides with chain link embellishments.

Fashion editor: Ann Loynd Burton; models: Linnea Turner and Michelle Krumov/Supreme Mgmt.; hair and makeup: Clelia Bergonzoli/Ray Brown Pro; photography assistant: Tara Campbell.

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EDITOR’S PICKS

Patrizia

D E S I G N E R C H AT •

ZVELLE

ELLE AYOUBZADEH, founder and creative director of Zvelle, isn’t your typical shoe designer. For starters, she isn’t formally trained and her label’s tagline, “Walk How You Want,” is unconventional in that it’s purposely nondirectional. Most designers want to dictate trends. Not AyoubZadeh.

“We’re not prescribing a certain way of dressing,” AyoubZadeh says, who launched her Italian-made label in late 2015. “I want women to be free to do, dress and be however they choose. I don’t care to tell them to wear my latest shoe with my latest bag and match it with certain colors. That’s not my personal style, and not Zvelle’s either.”

The “Walk How You Want” premise is open to interpretation because, AyoubZadeh believes, if you ask 100 women a question about personal style, you’ll likely receive 100 different answers. “I think women are intelligent and independent enough to know how to style our shoes and handbags,” she says. “Walk How You Want is about inspiring women to be true to themselves.”

AyoubZadeh describes Zvelle’s overall aesthetic as classic with a globally inspired twist, one is that is derived from her rich nomadic past. “I’ve lived and breathed many cultures from around the world,” she says, noting her designs always feature something unexpected yet are all elegant. “But I don’t design products to sit in museums; I want them to be worn in everyday life,” she adds.

Along those lines, AyoubZadeh focuses on styles that stand the test of time, adding she’s evolved from purely dress styles to include casual chic silhouettes. An example is the Rayna ballet sneaker in striking gold, rose gold and royal blue metallic tones. Other signature elements include an upside-down heart (the number five in Farsi), and winged detailing inspired by Amelia Earhart’s plane. “I’m not gimmicky, nor am I a fan of attaching my logo to everything,” says AyoubZadeh, who previously worked in institutional finance and angel investing. It’s where she came across future customers—many of whom are like her. “I’m a busy woman who doesn’t have time to change shoes in the middle of the day,” she says. “Whatever I wear has to also work for cocktails, dinners and surprise encounters!”

Where do you look for design inspiration? Everywhere and nowhere in particular. I’m a curious person. I read a lot. I spend a lot of time outside of the fashion world interacting with professionals in different disciplines. All of this fuels me with inspiration, which I jot down in notebooks that I carry with me all the time.

Are heels part of the new normal? Shoes and fashion are like

E D I TO R ’ S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I S S

E L L E AYO U B Z A D E H

Seychelles Gabor

C OF F EE F L AVO R S Espresso yourself in creamy neutral shades.

food. Today, I might want French and tomorrow it’s Chinese. We’re not robots.

We have moods that change, so there will always be heels. But I love that women now don’t feel they need height to look polished and elegant. You can achieve the same look with comfortable flats.

Why branch out into men’s? My husband, a very stylish entrepreneur, kept telling me he doesn’t have Zvelle shoes. So I made him a pair of loafers similar to our best-selling women’s style. It’s handcrafted, at a great price (SRP: $250) and is a chic, understated look—perfect for a man who doesn’t want to look like he tried too hard. Like all great entrepreneurs, he shared it on his social media and then all his colleagues wanted a pair. That’s how our men’s V loafer was born.

Who are some designers you admire?

Paul Smith is my favorite. He walks how he wants, and has been for over 50 years. I love that his brand doesn’t rush into the next cool thing. I also admire Anya Hindmarch.

You don’t buy Anya Hindmarch for the latest trend; you buy it because it stands

for something. I also have a lot of respect for Tory Burch as an entrepreneur, woman, designer and philanthropist.

What’s the best piece of design advice you’ve ever received? Don’t try to force everything into one design. It came from a key member of my team yelling at me, in the usual Italian manner, because I’m always trying to include everything. Sometimes, though, not having it all in one design makes the product stronger. I’m Persian, so I’m like an Italian at heart, speaking with my hands and getting passionate, so this advice stuck.

Any shoe trend you hope disappears?

Shoes that cost over $1,000 and then are sold at 50 percent off. Also, we don’t need diamonds on shoes. There are other ways to feel special—like giving back.

What do you love most about designing? Bringing an idea to life, creating it and then seeing it on a stranger who is making it their own. I never tire of that buzz. I also love that every shoe I design helps give people employment.

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U P C L O S E C O M F O RT

Naot Debuts Plant-Based Leather Collection The eco-friendly capsule collection struts its stuff at Kornit Fashion Week LA.

Life is Good Slips into Slippers Green Market Services to the produce collection.

THERE’S NO TIME like the present for Naot, in collaboration with Nova Milan, to introduce its first eco-friendly capsule collection of sandals featuring zero-impact vegan leather uppers made of agricultural waste. And there was no better place than the recent American debut of the sustainably-themed Kornit Fashion Week in Los Angeles as the setting.

Ayelet Lax Levy, president of Naot USA, believes the world has changed rapidly over the past two years as consumers are increasingly concerned about matters of sustainability and the environment. They demand more choices. “As a brand, we’ve always had eco-friendly manufacturing as part of our process and this year we introduced our first vegan collection,” she says. “We cannot get enough of that product as consumers have all but raced to buy it.”

Now there will be seven more styles to choose from for Spring ’22. The vegan capsule collection comes in array of bright, eye-catching prints on the leather made of agricultural waste, such as hemp, pineapple leaves, coconut, banana and water hyacinth. In addition, each sandal is made in Naot’s Israeli-based factory, where Lax Levy says the entire range of footwear is produced in an eco-friendly and ethically-mannered way. “Our factory is right near one of the largest nature preserves in Israel and has been held to higher standards because of that,” she says. “We still use handcrafting in our manufacturing processes, and our boxes are made out of recycled and biodegradable materials. We ask ourselves about the impact on the environment in almost every decision we make as a company.”

So far so good, reports Lax Levy on the initial response to the collection.

“We’ve had great feedback, and many of our retailers are asking how quickly they can receive the shoes,” she says, adding that there’s more to come soon.

“We’ll continue to go in this (sustainably designed) direction, and we’ll have some exciting news about this regarding Fall ’22.” —Greg Dutter

THE GOOD VIBES mantra of Life is Good will now extend to slippers through a license agreement with Green Market Services (GMS) beginning with the Fall/Winter ’22 season. In collaboration with Life is Good, GMS will design, manufacture and distribute the new collection of slippers in adult and kids’ styles featuring colorful Life is Good graphics. The collection will also include durable indoor-outdoor slippers.

Kosta Nicolopoulos, vice president of Brand and Business Development for GMS, says slippers are a timely extension for the outdoor lifestyle brand that specializes in casual apparel and sleepwear for the whole family. “Slippers have always been popular during the fall and holidays, and in recent years Millennials have made them a part of their daily wardrobes,” he says, adding that the pandemic has driven the category to become a staple for most people’s wardrobes.

Suggested retail price points for adults is $35 to $60, while kids’ run from $30 to $45. Distribution will span department stores, shoe chains and specialty outdoor, comfort and athletic shops. Nicolopoulos believes the collection represents a great opportunity for retailers looking to introduce a new brand into their assortments or build on their existing Life is Good experience. “The collection is fun and cheerful, includes lots of color and materials, and incorporates the band’s messages of optimism onto to the slipper uppers and outsoles,” he says.

In addition to quality product, Nicolopoulos says the two entities are trusted partners. Life is Good was founded in 1994 by brothers Bert and John Jacobs, who traveled the East Coast selling their original t-shirt designs in college dormitories. The brothers’ mission of spreading optimism through its products is a scientifically-backed approach to living a happier and more fulfilling life. The company donates 10 percent of its annual net profits to help kids in need through the Life is Good Kids Foundation. The foundation’s Playmaker Program provides childcare professionals with support that help them understand trauma and compassion-informed care. More than 12,000 childcare professionals help more than 1 million kids annually.

Meanwhile, GMS has been a go-to private label and licensing supplier for national brands and retailers for more than 50 years. The Brockton, MA, company is known for delivering exceptional value and on-trend styles of slippers, moccasins, clogs and shearling boots through its network of factories in China, Vietnam and Cambodia with expertise in slippers and handsewn footwear not found in general purpose factories. “The Life is Good message and our extensive experience in the slipper category combine perfectly to create an extraordinary opportunity,” Nicolopoulos says, noting that the early response from retailers has been strong. “Buyers love the fun color palette and wide range of commercial graphics, as well as the price points.” —G.D.

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U P C L O S E C O M F O RT

Vionic Collection Goes Deep Partnership with Proteus Ocean Group to raise awareness for oceans and climate change.

VIONIC, A DIVISION OF CALERES, is joining forces with Fabien Cousteau’s Proteus Ocean Group to help find innovative solutions to preserve and heal the oceans. The partnership will include cobranded beach clean-up initiatives and a consumer education campaign with the debut, this June, of a sea-inspired capsule collection within the brand’s eco-conscious Beach sneakers line. Angela S. Caltagirone, general manager for Vionic, says the partnership marks the latest step in the brand’s commitment to a sustainable and environmentally conscious future.

“By sharing what an organization like Proteus is making possible, we hope to energize our consumers to drive change with their own highly impactful daily decisions as well—however big or small they may be,” Caltagirone says. “Awareness is the very first step to problem solving.”

In addition to outsoles made from a rubber- and soybean-based compound, the Vegan-certified Proteus collection will feature uppers made of Repreve1 SurfExpo_J22_FootwearPlus_HPH.pdf

Our Ocean textile, a 100 percent post-consumer recycled material fabricated from ocean-bound plastic bottles collected within 30 miles of coastlines in areas that lack formal waste-recycling systems.

The uppers will be adorned with a custom coral print inspired by the reefs off of Curaçao, where Proteus conducts its research. Seeing how Vionic is also about wellness for the body, the collection will include its podiatrist-developed Three-Zone Comfort technology, which promotes overall foot health and relief to those who suffer from painful conditions such as plantar fasciitis.

Cousteau, grandson of famed explorer and conservationist Jacques Cousteau, welcomes Vionic as a founding sponsor to his organization. “Challenges created by climate change, rising sea levels, extreme Fabien storms and viruses represent a Cousteau multi-trillion-dollar risk to the 11/18/21 2:46 PM

global economy,” he says. “Our partnership with Vionic will open up more opportunities to collaborate and connect with consumers who are environmentally conscious.”

Caltagirone envisions the Proteus partnership evolving in the years ahead. “We have aggressive sustainability goals within Vionic and across Caleres,” she says. “We look forward to bringing our learnings from Proteus to the evolution of our entire line while inspiring the larger industry on a path towards 100 percent sustainable products.” Caltagirone adds, “We’ll lean on their expertise and leadership to help guide us in making the best eco-forward decisions.

In turn, we’ll bring their message to our raving fans to create greater demand for better options in our daily lives. Together, we believe that there’s no such thing as the impossible!” —G.D.

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THIS JUST IN

Rubbernecking Report The streets of Gotham serve as the scene for traffic-stopping sneaker gawking.

Photography by Marcy Swingle 38 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2021

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Q&A continued from page 15 go back to the way it was. The future will just be different.

But not all the changes brought on by the pandemic have necessarily been for the worse, right?

There have been some good changes, like the hybrid work model when possible.

Being flexible with our office employees has been a huge improvement. Frankly, it makes me mushy how everyone in our company has done a beautiful job working remotely. If people hadn’t been devoted and done a great job, maybe we’d have gone back full time by now. But our people have been fantastic. And while there are plenty of people in our office each day, to know that you can be flexible—that you can pick up your kid at school and do the rest of your calls at home—has been a huge silver lining. I believe this work flexibility has changed forever for us.

Have consumers, by and large, forever changed how they work, shop, recreate, what they wear, etc.?

In many ways, yes. For example, it’s forced companies to ramp up their on-demand capabilities. Consumers really love flexibility, whether it’s how they work, how they can buy something online and pick it up in a store or how fast they can get something shipped. I think the pandemic has accelerated those on-demand shopping trends.

What is Minnetonka doing to meet these shifts in shopping habits?

Through the capabilities of our warehouse, which is fantastic and has been long before the pandemic. We ship fast, and that comes from a very honest place when, decades ago, our account list consisted mainly of independent gift stores mostly open Memorial Day to Labor Day. They would fax us orders on Sunday nights to fill in on what they sold over the weekend, and we’d ship on Monday to get it to them by the following Friday. We had to ship quickly because if they missed a weekend…those stores couldn’t make up that lost business. So fast shipping is in our bones. It’s why we’ve been well-positioned to maximize the drop-ship model, as well.

It’s safe to assume another strength of Minnetonka’s of late has been slippers.

Slippers has been a strong category for us for the last decade, really. Coming into 2020, we were already in a good position, offering high-quality slippers at a good price-value. Then the pandemic hit and it seemed like everybody else was focused on stopping the flow of product because of the uncertainty.

However, we noticed early on that our ecommerce sales were rising. So we doubled down and kept ordering inventory, and when fall 2020 arrived we had great product available and our sales were fantastic. So 2020 overall was a success for us. It’s one of the great benefits of being privately owned—we can make decisions fast.

What are some other recent company improvements?

This year, we’ve updated all of our account agreements and invested in a new MAP compliance policy, which helps clean up all of our channels of distribution and makes sure our retailers represent the brand properly. It’s another example of investing in our brand for the long-term, which has been a big overall theme for us this year.

What’s Minnetonka’s outlook beyond slippers and moccasins?

We’re definitely planning to expand further beyond our core categories. Our Fall ’22 collection features more casual styles, and we’re excited to see where eco-friendly takes us going forward. While we’re not a “comfort” brand with lots of technologies, we’re considered casual and comfortable, which is a feeling consumers have about our brand. For example, our Home & Away slippers collection that we launched in the fall of 2019 are being worn more outside

Minnetonka firsts: Reconcilliation Advisor Adrienne Benjamin’s capsule hat collection and eco-friendly moccasins—both available this month.

than inside. It’s been a really strong category for us and represents a good example of what we want to do going forward. We’ll definitely be focusing on products beyond the home—like our sandals collection that we’ve been making since 1999. We think of ourselves as a footwear brand—that happens to make hats, as well.

As a woman, do you bring a fresh perspective to Minnetonka’s executive team?

Sure, which is still a rarity within our industry overall, sadly. It’s been proven that having various perspectives in a leadership team is crucial to success. I think it’s an advantage for us, and I hope there will be more women reaching this position in our industry. Along those lines, I also think there’s an advantage of being a parent with young kids. Corporate leaders need to understand that their employees have full lives. Our president, for example, has a four year old and a two year old and the CEO is their grandfather. I think being understanding of those responsibilities is very important.

Is there any added pressure of being the fourth generation?

Not really. My cousin and I think we bring a fresh perspective and new ideas, as well as a desire to prove ourselves. That said, we have a legacy in our family where the older generation partners with the younger one and is generous about turning the business over eventually. Our legacy is a positive. This isn’t like that show Succession. (Laughs.)

What do you love most about your job?

Our employees, that every day is different and building on our company’s legacy.

It’s really special to be part of a 75-year-old company. Being independently, family owned is a big part of who we are. A lot of footwear companies these days are owned by bigger companies, and more and more conglomerates are being formed. Not us. My dad and my grandfather, who still works here by the way, often joke: “We wouldn’t know what we’d do all day if we sold the company.” They tell that one to me all the time. • 2021 december • footwearplusmagazine.com 39

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L A S T S HO T

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