Footwear Plus Magazine | April/May 2021

APRIL/MAY 2021 VOL 31 • ISSUE 4 • $10

HELP WANTED TWO TEN’S EPIC PANDEMIC RESPONSE

HIP HIKERS

GREEN & HEARD

GEARING UP FOR THE GREAT OUTDOORS

OUTDOOR EXECS SOUND OFF

GOOD FOR BUSINESS AND GOOD FOR THE PLANET

NATURE CALLS

APRIL / MAY 2021

Caroline Diaco President/Group Publisher

F E AT U R E S 12 Shelter from the Storm The Two Ten Footwear Foundation’s pandemic response: a heroic

Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL

tale of an industry coming together in its greatest time of need.

Emily Beckman Associate Editor

By Greg Dutter

Kathy Passero Editor at Large

21 Into the Wild Hiking is hot. The pandemic has made the outdoors look greater than ever—and brands are poised to take the category to new heights.

By Greg Dutter 26 Trail Mix Retro silhouettes. Breakthrough constructions. Tried-and-true earth tones. Pops of ’90s-era neon.

The outdoor category is a potpourri of styles for great adventures big and small.

By Ann Loynd Burton

Ann Loynd Burton Contributing Editor Melodie Jeng Marcy Swingle Momo Angela Contributing Photographers ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Laurie Guptil Production Manager Kathy Wenzler Circulation Director Catherine Rosario Office Manager Mike Hoff Digital Director WAINSCOT MEDIA Carroll Dowden Chairman

PA G E

26

D E PA RT M E N T S

Mark Dowden President & CEO Steven J. Resnick Vice President & CFO

4 Editor’s Note 6 This Just In This page: Danner Free Spirit hikers feature Vibram Overlook outsoles with MegaGrip traction, Gore-Tex waterproof linings, OrthoLite insoles and dual density midsoles for support with a softer compound underfoot. Socks from Loops & Wales.

On cover: Teva Ridgeview Mid hikers feature TevaRapid waterproof linings, 50 percent recycled polyester breathable mesh upper and leather sourced from responsible tanneries, TPU shanks for stability, and Vibram MegaGrip outsoles.

Photography by Trevett McCandliss; models: Chris Flora and Kristina Elise/Fenton Model Mgmt. stylist: Nancy Campbell; fashion editor: Ann Loynd Burton.

8 Green & Heard 11 Trend Spotting: Mixed Materials 18 A Note to My Younger Self 20 Trend Spotting: Rain Boots 38 Shoe Salon 40 Last Shot

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COMFORT THAT NEVER COMPROMISES. From creating new fabrics out of natural materials to exploring new techniques for construction, Twisted X® holisitically evaluates every step of the process for environmentally-responsible footwear and production without compromising quality and performance. Learn more about all of Twisted X’s sustainability initiatives by visiting TwistedX.com/sustainability.

Copyright © 2021 Twisted X Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Twisted X® is dedicated to making your business successful by being your partner, not competitor. We believe it is our job to help you do your job. We do not sell direct-to-consumer, we continue to increase our inventories and we are ready to ship to you.

Learn more at Twistedx.com/Partners or call 888.894.2668

E D ITOR ’S NOT E

As the World Turns

Faith No More? industry coming together to support its colleagues, from the C-suite to “HAVING FAITH,” per Google search results, the warehouse, in their time of need. It’s about how a tightknit team of is believing that if you keep going—if you keep dedicated Two Ten employees overcame challenges to get checks into looking for answers, if you continue to do whatpeople’s hands ASAP. Of course, none of it would be possible without ever it takes—you will succeed eventually. It’s the tremendous generosity of industry members. If you need a shot in also defined as “complete trust or confidence in the arm, so to speak, this is worth a read. someone or something.”

The push by a growing number of brands to incorporate ecoBut the past year shattered a lot of people’s friendly materials and best practices offers another ray of hope. Our faith—in humanity, health, healthcare, peace, Green & Heard section (p. 8) details several such efforts, ones that go technology, science, Mother Nature, government, far beyond gimmicks and are part of company-wide commitments to business, partnerships (think Nike), a better tomorrow. Faith has been sustainability. The Holy Grail of circularity is even discussed, not as a tested like never before amid the world’s recent calamities and general pie in the sky dream but as a working goal. Green is good—for business upheaval. It seems as though we’re at a tipping point, and it’s not a and the planet. Our industry’s collective efforts to lessen our global good one. Sure, there was a flash of renewed faith in science when the footprint is inspiring. We have a long way to go, but we’re moving in vaccines rolled out in record time. But as fast as the shots have been the right direction and gathering momentum. administered, virus mutations have threatened to render them inefOur outdoor feature, “Into the Wild” (p. 21), is another example of fective. Worse, the inequality of distribution worldwide increases the brands doing right by Mother Nature, while chance of such mutations taking hold. It hasn’t also trying to make the outdoors accessible to exactly been the shot in the arm I was hoping all. Long deemed a category of tree huggers for to end this pandemic. Yet I have faith that and adrenaline junkies, outdoor brands have science will ultimately provide the solution, just seen the light. The pandemic has shown that as it has for many other diseases. people of all types seek solace in nature, from Above all, I still have faith in humanity. I a short walk with the family in the local park believe that collectively we can pull ourselves to a solo trek through the Rocky Mountains. back from the abyss. While it can seem hopeThere’s a world of opportunity in this category less at times (the daily headlines are enough in terms of growth potential and new products. to make anyone want to stick their head in (See our fashion feature, “Trail Mix” on p. 26, the sand), in the long run I think our desire for the latest in outdoor fashions.) to do right by one another and the planet will You gotta have faith, as George Michael win out. Good triumphs evil. Why do I believe sings. In the face of all that can go horribly this? For starters, living in despair is just wrong, stay positive and press forward. Let too damn depressing. I also see evidence all The cherry blossoms in Riverside Park: a dazzling display of nature’s annual rebirth. nature and the arts provide inspiration and around me; I see people committed to maksolace. The photos of this tree was shot across ing the world a better, more equitable place. the street from my New York home, a reminder that nature can be as Thousands of healthcare and frontline workers have risked their beautiful as it can be cruel. My fair city took it on the chin this past lives daily to help those in desperate need. The ongoing support of year—its per capita death and economic tolls rank worst in the nation. charities, for millions worldwide who have nowhere else to turn, is But New Yorkers are a resilient bunch. I have faith that with a little another beacon of hope. polish, the Big Apple will shine again. I have faith that our industry, Our industry’s support of the Two Ten Foundation is a shining our country and our world will rebound, too. example of the best side of human nature. In our feature this month, I agree with Bono and his enduring faith in mankind. “If there is “Shelter from the Storm” (p. 12), we dive deep into how the 82-year-old a light/You can’t always see/And there is a world/We can’t always industry charity has responded to the biggest crisis in its history—an be/If there is a dark/Now we shouldn’t doubt/And there is a light/ unprecedented demand for emergency financial assistance from thouDon’t let it go out.” sands of footwear employees and their families. It’s a heroic story of an

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

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Why Portugal?

Find your business partner in www.portugueseshoes.pt

Everything you need to know and never dare to ask

THIS JUST IN

L.A.Women These California girls rock an eclectic range of shoe styles worthy of a fashionable Hollywood ending.

Photography by Tim Regas

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Turning Plastics to Plush.

Staheekum’s Recycled Water Bottle Lining gives post-consumer plastics a second life by sustainably converting recycled plastic bottles into our incredibly soft lining material for a greener and more comfortable footbed.

STAHEEKUM.COM

GREEN & HEARD

FDRA’S GREEN GURU SAYS… ANDY POLK, SENIOR vice president and sustainability expert for the Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America (FDRA), has been on the front lines of the industry’s eco-friendly efforts for about a decade. He’s seen his share of breakthroughs as the industry tries to lighten its collective carbon footprint. And while at times it can seem overwhelming (like herding feral cats), Polk believes the industry is making significant strides to a greater, greener good.

Here, he gives an update of some best practices, breakthrough materials and what’s in the pipeline.

Capital is Now at Stake: “Companies are getting more aggressive on hitting sustainability targets because investors are asking them to do so. In addition to offering green bonds to help fund sustainability efforts at lower costs, investors are using their financial muscle to push companies to a greener future. Access to capital is being tied to sustainable progress—like a company’s ESG (environmental, social and corporate good) ratings. It’s a new form of motivation that encourages companies to speed up their sustainability efforts as well as aim to meet higher targets. It could help prevent capital issues down the road as well as potentially provide access to additional funding.”

Open with Packaging: “Nearly every shoe company on their sustainable journey says packaging is low-hanging EPM Standards Matter: “Historically, fruit to bite off. It can be as easy as askcompanies have relied on mateing your packaging partner to increase rial suppliers to help choose more recycled content of your boxes and Environmentally Preferred Materials inserts. For example, remove plastic Andy Polk (EPMs), but the lack of a universal shoe forms and swap out paper inserts standard specific to footwear manufor recycled cardboard, which also facturers has stunted efforts. Worse, no baseline weigh significantly less for shipping efficiencies. means shoe companies are forced to adopt apparel Being thoughtful on packaging is an easy win to standards, which is crazy! Shirts have four materibuild an eco-friendly story around. In fact, it can als, whereas shoes have 60-plus and they have to stop sustainability inertia, giving brands confidence perform with constant physical pressure. Enter to move forward on additional efforts.”

FDRA (again), which is currently working with 100-plus companies to set EPM thresholds as a Reducing Factory Waste is Easier than Ever: guide as well as to set gold standard targets, i.e. an “Thanks to FDRA’s new Factory Shoe Waste industry North Star, that can be executed against.

Program, pilot participants Target, Fila and Steve By simply creating a marker, it will change EPMs Madden have worked together to train factories for the better. Be on the lookout this summer for on how to identify waste, sort it and recycle it to this helpful new industry tool.” keep it out of landfills. The effort saw a 30-plus percent reduction of waste! As the program enters Green is Cool: “Keen is using recycled leather its second phase, there are dozens of companies from old cars in select classic styles. Ugg is using joining the effort to increase sustainability efforts at sugar cane in its midsoles and tree fiber for uppers the factory level. The program is plug-and-play: a in its Fluff Sugar sandals. Saucony has a new team does the work for the brands in the factories. zero plastic shoe, Jazz Court RFG (see p. 10), and A small investment by each company makes a big Dr. Scholl’s has introduced the Hunter, >39 impact on noticeable waste in our supply chains.”

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Oboz Ups Ante on Tree Planting TWO TREES PLANTED are better than one. So is the logic behind Oboz’s decision to now plant two trees for every boot tried on in participating stores and for every pair sold on its website during the month of April.

The Montana-based brand, in partnership with Trees for the Future, has been planting one tree for every pair of boots sold since 2007, which amounts to 3.5 million trees taking root and counting.

“We are firm believers that we should celebrate and take care of our earth every day, not just on April 22nd,” says Rich Hohne, director of Brand + Consumer Experience.

“We’ve been planting a tree for every pair sold before it was en vogue and with our dealers’ help, we hope to eclipse the four million tree mark by early summer.”

Last year, Oboz expanded its partnership with Trees for the Future with the Tabora Forest Garden Project in Tanzania. The four-year project plants specific types of trees in the African country that provide families with food sources, livestock feed and products to sell. On average, the “forest gardens” have increased annual incomes by 400 percent over four years.

GREEN & HEARD

Allen Edmonds Expands Recrafting Program Teva Launches Recycling Program IN AN EFFORT to divert its sandals from landfills, Teva, a division of Deckers Brands, has teamed with TerraCycle on a recycling program dubbed TevaForever.

When Teva sandals have made their last trek, U.S. consumers can mail—at no cost—their old soles to TerraCycle for recycling. The plan is to expand the program globally in 2022.

“Teva sandals have a soul of their own, shaped by every wild adventure they’ve weathered, and TevaForever finally gives our fans the peace of mind knowing the spirit of those adventures can continue to live on through new products,” says Anders Bergstrom, vice president and general manager of Teva, adding that one day the brand hopes to achieve circularity—creating new sandals from old ones. “Every pair our fans send in helps us get closer to our ultimate goal, and with enough recycled pairs, research and development, we’ll work to eventually close the loop.”

For now, it’s easy to recycle used Teva sandals. Customers can visit Teva.com to sign up and download a prepaid shipping label to mail their worn-out sandals. The materials will be separated for processing and then made available to manufacturers to make a number of new products, including playgrounds, athletic fields and track ground cover. “Teva sport sandals construction and materials are actually relatively simple, so disassembling them is rather easy and quick,” Bergstrom says.

“It’s as if they were made to be broken down and turned into something new, forever continuing the adventure.”

Teva will get the word out about its recycling program beginning this summer via digital media, including a content series featuring influential environmental and outdoor leaders sharing their stories of why they are giving their well-loved sandals a new life with TevaForever. “Our fans share our passion to lighten their environmental impact,” he says, noting that additional incentives may come later. “But for now, we’re relying on the excitement of the recycling program and fans knowing they are doing their part to keep well-worn sandals out of landfills.”

The recycling is just the latest in Teva’s ever-evolving commitment to reduce its environmental footprint. In addition to the brand’s 2020 sustainability initiative, in which it transitioned 100 percent of its straps to recycled plastic using Repreve yarn, it has moved the needle on several other fronts. Highlights include: Since 2020, Teva has diverted more than 40.2 million plastic bottles, equal to 755 tons of post-consumer plastic, from landfills; saved 348 million gallons of water since 2017, thanks to packaging improvements and working with supply chain partners to improve their conservation efforts; reduced the total weight of packaging by 4.1 million pounds; and is now sourcing all leathers from tanneries certified by Leather Working Group, whose mission is to promote sustainable and appropriate environmental business practices within that industry. Teva also supports the Better Cotton Initiative, the largest cotton sustainability program in the world. And this fall, the brand will introduce Up Leather to its lines. The reconstituted leather is sourced from the tannery’s cutting room floor, thus minimizing waste.

“As stewards and explorers of this planet, we not only have the desire but an innate responsibility to protect it,” Bergstrom says. “It’s in our DNA to foster good business that reduces our footprint so future generations have a planet worth exploring.”

WHAT’S BETTER THAN a trusty old pair of wingtips?

How about that same pair refurbished to look and feel as good as new? That’s the thinking of Allen Edmonds, a division of Caleres, and its eco-conscious Recrafting Process program. Customers can extend the life of their favorite shoes by entrusting them to an authentic Allen Edmonds craftsman to restore, using genuine brand components and materials.

There are few products one can buy and then beat the heck out of, only to be able to send back to the manufacturer and basically get a new product returned, according to Keith Duplain, president of Caleres’ St. Louis Branded Portfolio. Rather than those shoes ending up in a landfill (the fashion industry ranks second for worst polluting industry in the world), it’s a way for customers to extend the life of their shoes and do their part for the environment—not to mention be a cost savings.

“There are so many reasons we see Allen Edmonds customers participating in our Recrafting program,” Duplain says. “Some ask for their shoes to be recrafted for sentimental reasons—perhaps a shoe belonged to a beloved family member or friend? Some love a particular style that isn’t available anymore and some customers prefer to change out a sole, going from a leather outsole to rubber dainite.”

And it’s easy. Customers can drop off their shoes at a local Allen Edmonds store (and receive a $75 discount if they purchase a new pair) or complete the form and ship them, free of charge, to the company’s refurbishing facilities. Heel refurbishments generally take up to three weeks, while a complete refurbishing (includes new leather uppers, cork inlays, welting and laces along with a flannel shoe bag) takes up to six weeks. There are six refurbishment packages to choose from, spanning dress shoes to sneakers, and range in price from $50 to $155.

“Over 90 percent of styles can be recrafted,” says Duplain, noting that Allen Edmonds recrafts between 55,000 and 75,000 pair a year. “We celebrated our 1 millionth recraft in 2016,” he adds.

Born again: Recrafting program gives new life to Allen Edmonds shoes.

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GREEN & HEARD

Fast times: Zero-X no-glue shoe.

Twisted X in Full Gallop THE PUSH TO improve sustainability standards shows no let-up from Twisted X. The Texas company is charging ahead on various fronts, be it new products, materials and best practices.

“We’re constantly searching for new opportunities to further our sustainability mindset in manufacturing, shipping, materials and the overall shoemaking process,” affirms Prasad Reddy, CEO of Twisted X Global Brands, makers of Twisted X, Wrangler and Black Star. “By 2022, 80 percent of Twisted X footwear will have at least one sustainability component.”

It all starts with the belief that there’s always room for improving its green efforts, whether that means developing its own innovations, looking to factory and material partners, and outside the industry for best practices. For example, this year Twisted X introduced Blend85, a mix of upcycled waste from production (such as EVA, leather, rubber, polyurethane and textiles) that will be reincarnated into 85 percent of the material used for its footbeds. “By substituting foam with materials that would have been previously added to landfills, we estimate that we’ll be eliminating more than 1 million pounds of waste every year going forward,” Reddy says.

Twisted X also introduced BioSole midsoles, made of ecofriendly caster bean oil, as part of its expanded Zero-X collection.

The sustainable design collection, which debuted this spring, eliminates the use of harmful glues. “Our independent stitching construction eliminates 75 percent of the harsh environmental issues created with traditional footwear making,” Reddy says.

“The lack of harsh chemical adhesives, scoring dust and debris, and the elimination of heating and cooling production energy all add to the eco-friendly benefits of Zero-X.” Along those lines, Reddy says Twisted X has also expanded the application of its ecoTWX fabric (made from recycled water bottles) into a new variation, ecoTWEED, used in shoe linings.

“Switching from a nylon lining to a 50-50 blend of ecoTWEED and bamboo charcoal blend is more breathable, more moisture-, antibacterial- and odor-absorbing, and softer,” he says.

The success of Twisted X’s sustainability efforts has the team raring to introduce new ones, according to Reddy. The drive to improve never ceases. “We have a commitment to bring to market a new innovation or technology every six months and, when possible, one that revolves around our sustainability mission,” he says, adding that he welcomes imitators in this regard. “Our core goal is helping every person get involved in our mission to help the environment. As an individual or as a company, we make an impact, but if we have millions alongside us, we will make a huge impact.”

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All That Jazz THE FIRST MODEL in Saucony’s successful Jazz series hit the pavement back in 1981 as a breakthrough running shoe. And while there were many performance upgrades and design iterations over the ensuing 40 years, perhaps none to the revolutionary extent of its latest, the Jazz Court RFG (SRP: $130). Crafted using only seven natural materials and zero plastic, it’s Saucony’s most eco-friendly shoe to date, delivering on the brand’s commitment to sustainability and longterm goal of excluding virgin plastic from all its products.

“As a brand, we sensed the urgency to make changes to improve shoemaking processes and deliver products that consider and respect the Earth and our future on her,” says Anne Cavassa, president of Saucony, a division of Wolverine Worldwide. “For the Jazz Court RFG, we leveraged over 120 years of industry leadership, blending classic shoemaking with modern manufacturing to not only omit plastics, but also minimize energy and chemical use during the manufacturing process.”

The Jazz Court RFG is made of cotton, jute, wool, rubber, wood, gardenia and beet. The renewable materials are reflected in the canvas upper, lining made with plant-dyed cotton and 100 percent latex rubber outsole. It’s a combination of materials that pays eco-friendly dividends post use, as well. With no petroleumbased materials, the shoe will break down much quicker Dig it: The Jazz Court RFG and safely in landfills. What’s is made of all natural materials. more, the shoes are packaged in an ink-free, 100 percent recycled cardboard box.

Cavassa believes sneaker fans everywhere will appreciate the level of detail in this shoe as much as the team at Saucony appreciate the things it took out. “This project ended up being about more than just producing a plastic-free, all-natural shoe,” she says.

“It became an emotional journey through craftsmanship and bygone artistry to create a beautiful shoe that will further empower consumers to live a more sustainable life.” Cavassa adds that the shoe should also appeal to consumers who’ve reconnected with nature and their own health through the pandemic. “Research shows that they are also more concerned about the environment and the health of the Earth,” she says. “Consumers, particularly Millennials, increasingly say they want brands that embrace purpose and sustainability. Younger consumers are especially interested in changing their personal behaviors to be more sustainable in their everyday lives.”

To that broad base appeal, the Jazz RFG will be available on Saucony.com and select retailers worldwide. “We were primarily focused on our tier zero lifestyle accounts where the consumer appreciates our brand heritage and cares about sustainability,” Cavassa says. “Initial response in these accounts is quite strong, and you will see this same distribution approach with the second wave in late July.”

Going forward, Saucony aims to use up to 100 percent recycled content for performance upper textiles, collar linings and shoelaces, and starting this fall every performance style will include recycled content. “The Jazz Court RFG is the first step in a multi-year, sustainability roadmap,” Cavassa says.

“In order for real progress, we must push ourselves beyond our comfort zone and current capabilities.”

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

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2

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MIXED MESSAGES A little of this and a little of that is all that.

1. Patrizia 2. Ron White 3. Naot 4. Wonders

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Faced with the industry’s biggest crisis in history, the Two Ten Footwear Foundation has been answering the call for emergency assistance for more than a year, delivering on its mission to help shoe people in need like never before. It’s a Herculean effort involving hard work, humanity and generosity—a heroic tale of an industry coming together in its greatest time of need. By Greg Dutter

N

OBODY SAW THIS storm coming. Not the scale, the intensity, the duration or the destruction. The need for emergency financial assistance that has flooded in as the Covid-19 pandemic has swept across the nation since last March has been unprecedented.

The Two Ten Foundation has responded to many large-scale crises successfully over its 82-year history—hurricanes, tornados, wildfires and man-made disasters like wars and recessions—but nothing to rival the scale and intensity of this pandemic. This is the perfect storm.

It’s as if every single region of the country was slammed simultaneously by a Category 5 hurricane, affecting every tier of the industry.

330,000 people employed in the footwear industry in the United States, “Even when large footwear companies shut down, where a lot of according to the Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America. That their employees turned to us at once, we’ve never seen anything like figure plummeted to about 127,000 a few months into the crisis as nonthis,” says Shawn Osborne, CEO of Two Ten Foundation. “It was essential retailers closed physical locations when 328 million Americans never national and at this scale—not even remotely close.” The exec were urged to stay home for months. And while it’s since rebounded to about adds, “Within a very short period, we started getting applications for 245,000 employees, thousands are still in desperate need of assistance. assistance nationwide, including Hawaii as well as Puerto Rico, that Two Ten still needs to raise funds while simultaneously keeping up with we typically didn’t hear from.” the daunting demand for assistance. The pandemic-induced storm rages The virus doesn’t discriminate. From the C-suite to the warehouse, on, and Two Ten remains in all-hands-on-deck mode, doing everything thousands of footwear employees nationwide have been furloughed or laid it can to fulfill its primary mission. off for good. They and their families have faced dire financial decisions–like “Simply put, Two Ten helps people in need,” says David Kahan, CEO of having to choose between paying for groceries and heat, or rent or medicine.

Birkenstock Americas and current vice chair of Two Ten’s Board of “It could be the person next to you that was living paycheck to paycheck Directors. “While there is a fantastic scholarship program and you don’t even know it because maybe they were ok and other valued programs, this is a foundation that, first with their job, but their spouse lost theirs,” Osborne says. and foremost, serves people with immediate, serious “Or they went through a separation or a divorce…it could needs. It’s the difference between making a rent payment, be any number of situations where the person sitting next medical costs…helping people survive.” Kahan adds, “You to you could have become financially vulnerable.” He adds, never really know what someone is going through in their “It hasn’t been a specific age or level of position. We’ve had personal life, and Two Ten provides a lifeline for those in VPs turn to us for assistance. People at all levels and all this industry.” areas have been reaching out to us this past year.”

“It was remarkable to see how our industry leaned in to “The hardest choice was one that faced so many mothers, address the needs of footwear families,” says Debbie Ferree, which was to pay rent or childcare, because if they didn’t president and vice chairman of Designer Brands and current continue paying for childcare, they’d lose their spot,” says chair of Two Ten’s Board of Directors. “Corporations and Jestina Walcott, director of Program Services for Two Ten individuals stepped up their giving and companies created and point person on many aid requests. “And if they didn’t fun ways for their associates to contribute with internal have care lined up, they couldn’t go back to work.” Walcott Shawn Osborne, CEO, events like sample sales, holiday contests, employee giving adds that the calls for assistance revealed stressful issues Two Ten Foundation programs etc.—all to raise money for Two Ten to help their like an increase in funeral and burial expenses, suicides, fellow footwear friends.” separations, divorce and domestic abuse. “We had a big increase in providing “The pandemic spurred an incredible need for assistance and Two referrals to counseling for individuals struggling with isolation, depression Ten has answered the call,” says Glenn Barrett, CEO of OrthoLite, Two and addiction, as well as referrals for food banks, utilities assistance and Ten board member and chair of its Major Gifts committee. “When the the Salvation Army,” she says, noting that by early spring a “normal day” government was debating PPP (Paycheck Protection Program), Two Ten saw dozens of applications being processed to get funds as quickly and to as was mailing out checks.” many people as possible. It was a race against time, and the peak demand Thanks to the continued generosity of industry members, Two Ten has didn’t let up until the fall. “The impact of Covid-19 was so far-reaching, been doing just that: In one Covid-stricken year, the organization distributed it reminded us that, at some point, almost everyone needs help,” Walcott $4.3 million to about 6,500 industry members. For comparison’s sake, a says. “Footwear families who experienced reduced household income typical fiscal year sees Two Ten outlay approximately $2 million to around from layoffs and furloughs needed help taking care of their basic needs 2,000 industry members. Pre-Covid-19, there were about 200 companies of food, heat and shelter.” whose employees turned to Two Ten annually for assistance. This spiked The numbers are truly staggering: Pre-pandemic, there were approximately

2021 april/may • footwearplusmagazine.com 13

Straight from the Heart Recipients of Two Ten Foundation’s financial assistance during the pandemic express their heartfelt gratitude.

“I received the check today.

Thank you! I really appreciate it, and it’s a big help to me while navigating this pandemic. As you know, I have over 20 years in the industry, so please feel free to reach out. I would be happy to contribute any way I can.”

“Thank you for your assistance! This will be a tremendous help for my family.

Two Ten is greatly appreciated!”

“Omg!!! Thank you so much for everything and everyone at Two Ten! It’s so appreciated and going to greatly help our situation financially!”

“I want to thank you for all you have done for him. This means so much to all of us in our company. I will make sure that the funeral home is on the lookout for the payment. Thanks again. If there is ever anything I can do for Two Ten, just let me know.”

“I truly believed we would all be past this traumatic time in our world, but it’s never-ending! I wanted to thank you so much for your assistance in my awarded financial help. It lifted my hopes and gave me a chance at recovery! I will never forget Two Ten Footwear Foundation.”

“I wanted to take a moment to again say THANK YOU for all that you did for my family. The assistance you provided us was such a huge help. When I was feeling hopeless, truly defeated and beat down, you were so kind, understanding and helpful. When you feel so defeated and need help it can just leave you so heavy and unable to breath not knowing if your family’s going to be ok—not knowing if you’re going to lose everything. You took off the weight of the unknown—that constant worry—and eased it away. Giving us hope that things are going to be okay is good to feel again, thanks to your help and just caring. If I could hug you, I would tell you how grateful and thankful we are.

Because that’s not possible, I hope my letter gets across how special you are and the work that you and your foundation does! Be safe, stay well and thank you from all of us!”

a lot of programs that, to some degree, might have deviated a little too far from our core mission, and one of my initial goals was to rationalize the ones that made the most sense,” he says.

Pivot number one: Leverage Two Ten’s CRM systems to handle the volume of daily applications, which by late March was 10 times the normal number the group received. Fortunately, a few years prior, Two Ten had installed a new system, but it had yet to be maximized. Osborne, who had PANDEMIC PIVOTS an extensive background in the tech industry before shifting to the nonLosing the revenue-driving Two Ten gala in 2020 was just the tip of the iceberg profit sector a decade ago, saw the untapped potential immediately. “One in terms of how the pandemic forced the organization to pivot—on the fly of the first things we did was dip into those systems to become more data and quickly. Two Ten realized that to have any hope of keeping up with the driven,” he says. “We began meeting (virtually) every day at 10 a.m. to look record demand for assistance—at a time when many regular contributors at our data dashboards to see the number of people who were coming to were facing extreme financial pressures within their companies—it had to us by region, age, gender, ethnicity, job position, dramatically change its focus and tactics. etc., and how many of the applications we were As fate would have it, Osborne, who came on processing a day and how many were still pending. board as CEO a few weeks prior to the pandemic, We’ve used that data to make decisions and pivot was just the man for the job. The fact that he had when we’ve needed to in order to get the checks in no ties to existing Two Ten programs coupled with the hands of the people who need them.” his strong background in data analytics helped Osborne likens the process to flying a plane him zero in on the organization’s primary mission: through a storm while enhancing the technology providing financial assistance for crisis relief and along the way. “We created an automatic hardship, and scholarship aid. Ancillary programs scheduling system that allowed our clients to like Footwear Cares, the annual industry-wide set a meeting with an intake specialist in order volunteerism drive, WIFI (Women in the Footwear to process their applications faster,” he says. “We Industry) and Human Resources Leadership Two Ten Board members: Birkenstock’s David Kahan and Glenn Barrett of OrthoLite. also started to work with various human resource Committee were put on hiatus. “We had spawned to more than 400 companies in 2020. And while the year fell short of the previous year’s record contributions of $5.5 million, Osborne says Two Ten came “pretty close” ($4.6 million)—despite not being able to hold its annual December industry gala in New York where, in 2019, $4 million of the $5.5 million was raised.

14 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2021

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departments of the large companies to prequalify employees so we didn’t require W2 and other forms. Lastly, we added temporary staff to deal with the increased traffic.”

At the same time, Osborne said Two Ten revamped its fundraising efforts.

Call that pandemic pivot number two. With no industry gala to rely on in 2020 for financial contributions, Two Ten had to shift gears. “We spent a lot of time, both with corporate and individual doners, setting up virtual meetings and expressing that the event wasn’t going to be a gala in New York. Rather, the event was the Covid-19 crisis, and we need your support now,” he explains. “We worked Zoom, the phones, social media and our CRM database for corporate and individual doners, which was critical because we had so much money going out the door that the need to bring money in was like never before. Thankfully, a lot of individual and corporate doners stepped up in a big way.”

Those included OrthoLite’s Barrett, who recently donated $500,000, and a significant contribution from former Nine West CEO and current owner of the NFL’s Jacksonville Jaguars Wayne Weaver, as well as Wolverine Worldwide, Foot Locker and New Balance recently committing to multi-year grants for the Two Ten Hardship and Crisis Relief Fund. “There were some who had to say no, but the majority said yes, and even though they maybe couldn’t give as much as in the past, they still gave.” Osborne says. “That’s a testament to Two Ten and the role it plays in the industry.”

The generosity of the industry in the face of unprecedented financial uncertainty strikes Osborne as quite unique. The tech industry, he says, isn’t so generous.

“Technology is just very cutthroat with a lot of fights over intellectual property and employees…they’d sooner beat each other than get together to help each other,” he says. “Whereas, the 82-year history of Two Ten working together and supporting its most important asset, its employees, in a time of need is like no industry I’ve seen. They compete during the day, but at the end of the day it’s all about working together to support the industry as a whole.” It helps, Osborne

believes, that a donation to Two Ten is like a “two-fer” in giving. “You’re giving to the industry as well as to your own employees,” he says. “Teammates helping teammates; colleagues helping colleagues. I think they see Two Ten as a priority because of the dual aspect of the donations.”

THE NEW NORMAL The fallout from the pandemic continues, and Two Ten expects to process a higher-than-average number of requests indefinitely. While last spring’s peak has abated, Osborne warns of a potential second wave. He notes that industry members are eligible to apply for crises relief again once a year has passed. (It’s two years for hardship relief requests.)

“Don’t think we can’t have a situation where people are going to come back for assistance,” Osborne says. “Even though the overall number of employees in the industry has shrunk, awareness around Two Ten has increased substantially.

So eligibility requirements, the virus potentially coming back and factors like government intervention make it hard to forecast the demand. But our best data says we’ll likely never return to numbers like we had pre-Covid-19.”

Two Ten remains laser-focused on raising funds and helping people in need, which leads to pivot number three. While the gala in New York is back on for December (virus permitting) and will serve as an important fundraiser, it’s no longer the cornerstone. Osborne says Two Ten has discovered it’s capable of raising funds without a big party. That was an “aha moment” because the organization had become so reliant on the gala for the majority of its annual fundraising. Instead, the hybrid in-person/virtual event (on Pier 60 in Manhattan) will be about celebrating people who’ve made donations throughout the year. “We’ll have a nice in-person gathering for the awards presentations, but we’ll complement that with more people being able to participate virtually,” Osborne says. “The mindset being people will donate to the crises and relief funds and not to a ‘party.’”

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In the meantime, Two Ten also remains focused on raising and awarding funds for its scholarship program—last year it distributed more than $800,000 and it has doled out $24 million to date. It’s also restarting WIFI and Human Resources committees, while Footwear Cares may be reintroduced next spring.

Beyond that, the day-to-day work of helping people in need remains job number one, and that’s where the tireless efforts of the Two Ten team shine brightest.

The 13 full-time employees have been on the frontlines of the Covid-19 war since Day One. They’ve met the unprecedented demand head-on—working remotely, no less. They’ve adapted and fulfilled their mission of helping people.

They’ve navigated their own family disruptions yet treated each applicant with the respect and care they deserve.

That daily compassion has been incredibly important to applicants, Osborne believes. “A big need is just humanity—hearing the warm voice of a Two Ten representative telling them that they can help with their rent, car payment, utility bill, etc. goes a long way,” he says. Walcott says that “listening ear” is what makes Two Ten special. “The personal relationship we build with each employee is one of the most important aspects that separate us from other relief providers,” she says. “There’s no substitute for that human aspect of our work. It’s one of our core values, and it makes me so proud. People remember how we made them feel, and that’s so much more than just giving them money.”

Osborne gives his team a nine out of 10 on its performance this past year.

“The team’s all-hands-on deck commitment has been pretty amazing,” he says. He gives similar kudos to Two Ten’s Board of Directors. “They’ve been so supportive right from the start,” he says. “They’ve constantly reached out to see how I and the team have been doing. There was never a time where I felt like I was alone.”

Kahan, speaking on behalf of the board, says the feeling is mutual. “We’re incredibly grateful for Shawn’s leadership,” he says. “His stewardship in guiding the organization while at the same time coming to understand the dynamics of

the industry have been a godsend.” Ferree also gives props to the entire Two Ten team: “I couldn’t be prouder of the effort. They were the front lines for our industry, spending countless hours taking calls and listening to how much hardship people were dealing with. I’m hopeful that we all pay it forward by giving generously at both the corporate and individual level going forward, knowing how Two Ten rose to the occasion to answer the needs of our industry.”

Recently, Two Ten’s team worked with U.S. Postal Service delays (lots of bureaucratic calls back and forth) to get checks to people faster, and February’s deep freeze in the South saw more than 100 applications come in for immediate assistance. “First, it was hourly employees who couldn’t work who turned to us, and then others had frozen pipes and had to get hotel rooms,” Osborne says.

“Life happens. Natural disasters continue. The challenges are still there, and we’ll keep fighting them.” Kahan agrees the heightened need still exists, and that’s why every company should support Two Ten. “Retailers across all channels, brands, suppliers, components manufacturers, logistics providers, technology support, all third-party providers…anyone who lives in the footwear universe has a role to play,” he says.

Osborne believes the past year has made Two Ten stronger than ever. “Our relief program was world class, but now it’s beyond that,” he says. “The enhancements to the system, the aha moment in discovering we didn’t need a big gala in order to fundraise, the way we expedited the applications, the generosity from our industry…hopefully something like this never happens again, but if it does people can lean on Two Ten and we’ll deliver.”

Osborne had an epiphany watching Two Ten’s response to the pandemic: “You do non-profit work because you want to make a difference and do something special,” he says. “And even though Covid-19 created a huge challenge for this organization, it’s a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to experience the difference that we can make in the lives of thousands of footwear employees. It’s really given our team the chance to show what Two Ten is all about.” •

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and more efficient design practices, i.e. getting more for less. Along these lines, use what’s available, stay on message, focus on the end result and always consider the needs of the end user. Don’t over-engineer or Throughout your footwear design career, you’ll often find yourself over-design. The best options are always the most straight forward, working in a corner of a windowless office inside a warehouse filled and never design what the factory can’t make. with shoes, but that’s just a minor detail in a career you’ll love. The Your peers will rise through the ranks of corporate design, start tools of the trade will always be nearby—markers, white-out, various their own brands or leave the industry entirely. Corporate design has sized logos to place into drawings and piles of shoes. its benefits, depending on the set up. Big fish-little pond means you’ll It all begins in the early ’90s, where you’re part of the industry’s second be the expert left alone and get to work on everything. That can be wave of designers. Design is still done completely by hand—and it will exhilarating, but also stressful. Alternatively, little fish-big pond means continue to be so for much of the next 10 years—before computers come you’ll learn a lot and fight for into play. Even when they do, projects and recognition. Think though, the job of a designer of it like playing baseball: You never really changes. If there’s train, you observe and when an empty shelf, a new category, a you get a shot at bat, you can new price point, a new technology try to get on base or swing for or a new demographic…they all the fences. require problems for designers to Eventually, you’ll discover that solve. That’s where your talents being an independent designer come into play. is your best approach at the Your career will span more plate, so to speak. It will allow than 30 years and include workyou flexibility and leads you to ing with 50 companies, starting branch out into a wide range with Hyde Athletic Industries of footwear programs that you (Saucony), Rykä and Reebok could never have imagined as a corporate designer. You’ll working on, like kids’, women’s work on shoes worn by many dress, America’s Cup shoes… professional athletes, including even shoes for horses!

NBA stars Shaquille O’Neal, All the stops are worthy learnAllen Iverson and Shawn Kemp. ing experiences that lead to a You’ll then branch into conA collage down memory lane, Joe Napurano’s design career has career-changing moment in sultant work, where over the taken him around the world and across the industry spectrum.

2018 when it just so happens next two decades you’ll work hemp is deregulated in the United States Farm Bill. That’s when you’ll with hundreds of people from around the world. Experiences will vary combine all your previous design experience to start developing a more from absolute fun (Dr. Martens in London) to dread (companies going sustainable shoe brand. Two-plus years later, in the middle of a global into Chapter 11). Fortunately, your career leans more towards fun. Your pandemic, you, Jerry Wiant and a few friends working in Oregon and work will take you to Europe, Indonesia, Taiwan, China, Thailand and Massachusetts launch Rackle, a brand born out of a simple idea to reduce Vietnam, as well as to the 1996 Summer Olympics in Atlanta, where one’s global footprint. Rackle is grass roots, planet-and foot-healthy your Reebok Spinvector program is worn by more than 3,000 athletes. footwear featuring plenty of eco-friendly hemp and no design B.S. It is a one-of-a-kind achievement in your career.

So far, so good. You’re now designing for your brand on your terms.

Around 2010, you’ll be invited to teach courses in footwear and Who knows, Rackle just may become the highlight of your career, or industrial design at the Wentworth Institute of Technology and your another fun adventure. Either way, it reflects your eternal optimism alma mater, Rhode Island School of Design. Your key lessons are to and youthful mindset. The desire for you to create something to solve keep it simple and tap into empathy. Another is that no one cares what problems never grows old. Always keep striving to surprise yourself. you did in the past, it’s about what can you do now. That’s the toughest aspect to designing shoes. Despite putting all your insights, personality Best, and efforts into your creations, you must maintain an objective point Joe of view. It’s not easy, but that’s the key, especially when designing for someone else’s brand.

P.S. Keep the skinny tie, never wear pleated pants and enjoy the hair.

Learning such the tricks of the trade will lead you into sustainable Dear Joe,

18 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2021

Zero-X no-glue shoes raise the bar on sustainable design.

Green is Good: The Critical Push for Footwear to Become Sustainable How Twisted X® is leading the way in implementing sustainability in all aspects of business to save our planet one shoe at a time.

AST YEAR, THE U.S. marked the largest reduction of carbon dioxide emissions worldwide by 12.9 percent solely from the nation hitting pause, according to a recent analysis by Nature’s Carbon Monitor Program. As America slowly reopens, it’s critical to remember this to prevent a regression. Especially in the footwear industry, where retail produces 10 percent of all carbon emissions and is the world’s second largest consumer of the water supply.

“Once you visit a factory, once you visit a production line, you realize what it takes to produce one pair of shoes,” says Yunus Khan, VP of Product Development for Twisted X. “From the first stitch to being delivered to a customer’s door, the environment is being directly impacted in more ways than one.”

Increasingly, consumers expect brands to make the necessary improvements toward sustainability. According to Eco Warrior Princess, 54 percent of young consumers think a brand’s environmental efforts are “extremely important” when considering purchasing a product. They are becoming more selective on where they shop and what they are buying, and now seek an environmental return on investment. Indeed, millions of consumers will buy the eco-friendly option, provided the price and quality are comparable. The issue now is offering shoppers more options. And while many brands claim to

be doing just that, as well as pledge to implement sustainable practices into their business models, it’s still lagging overall. We can do better! Manufacturers must all strive to improve their sustainability standards in the products they make, how they are distributed and in support of environmental causes.

Enter Twisted X, a long-time leader in sustainable footwear design and manufacturing. Since 2005, the Texas-based company takes sustainability into consideration every day. The company’s commitment to saving the planet goes beyond eco-friendly shoes—it’s everything that goes into the process of making them from start to finish. “Sustainability needs to be integrated into all aspects of the business, not parts,” says CEO Prasad Reddy.

Of course, saying it and actually doing it are two different things, and in the case of footwear manufacturing it’s an arduous task to operate as sustainably as possible. “Footwear production is very tedious,” Reddy says, noting that his goal going forward is to revolutionize the production process. “Brands should determine which parts cause damage and analyze if there is a different approach that could result in lower waste and carbon levels.”

Twisted X achieves this by its mandate to bring to market an innovation or new technology every six months. Sustainability lies at the forefront of that effort. Most recently that saw the launch of Zero-X™, a no-glue shoe collection featuring a proprietary double-stitching system that eliminates 75% of harsh environmental issues created with traditional manufacturing methods. The reduction of chemical adhesives, scoring dust and debris, as well as the elimination of heating and cooling production energy all contribute to Twisted X’s mission to become carbon neural by 2022.

The fact is most materials used in traditional footwear are far from eco-friendly, thus brands must be on the lookout for greener alternatives. For example, Twisted X has incorporated into its designs sugar cane molasses, rice husk, cork, merino wool, vegetable tanned leather, bamboo and bamboo charcoal. In addition, upcycled plastic bottles are woven into its proprietary fabrics ecoTWX® for uppers and ecoTWEED for shoe and footbed linings. Next up is Blend85 footbeds, which leverage 85% of upcycled factory waste. Twisted X shoeboxes are also made from 85% recycled materials.

By the end of 2021, Twisted X’s goal is to upcycle 5 million plastic bottles from landfills and oceans and commit to planting 500,000 trees through its partnership with One Tree Planted®, where one tree is planted for every pair purchased from the ecoTWX and Zero-X collections. The company is also a member of The Arctic Shipping Pledge, vowing not to ship through arctic waters that are becoming accessible due to climate change. In addition, Twisted X has a carbon neutral shipping contract with UPS, which accounts for about 90% of all its shipping, including internationally.

Brands must live and breathe this eco-friendly mindset in all aspects of the company by practicing what is preached, no matter the role an employee plays or the department. “For us, waste reduction is very important, including being mindful in our corporate offices as well,” says Twisted X Chief Marketing Officer Tricia Mahoney. “We have a zero single-use plastic office. No plastic straws and no disposable items.

That’s something we implement every day inside our walls.”

While plenty has been achieved, Twisted X isn’t resting on its laurels. There’s always room for improvement as Reddy believes green is just good business. “It will not be overnight, but there is always a way to exceed a company’s expectations of being a true, eco-friendly brand,” the exec says. “I believe a company and its leadership need to be held accountable to be better. We have a responsibility as humans to help the environment and community we live in.”

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PH OTO G RA PH Y BY TR E V E T T M CC AN D L ISS

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INTO THE

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!

Hiking is hot. The pandemic has made the outdoors look greater than ever—and brands are poised to take the category to new heights.

B Y

O

G R E G

NE OF THE few silver linings of the pandemic was that millions of Americans discovered or rediscovered what the outdoors can do for the mind, body and soul. With no gyms to hit and most team sports on hiatus, escaping a crowded house as a family activity or solo—for a hardcore hike traversing mountain passes or just a few laps around a local park—offered myriad benefits. During an interview on CNN last summer, Dr. Anthony S. Fauci himself recommended that Americans, “Go out on a trail; breathe fresh air.”

Americans have heard the call of the wild. The participation stats bear this out. According to a joint report released from the AllTrails trail navigation app and RunRepeat.com data analysis site, the number of hikes lasting longer than 10 minutes logged in 2020 increased by 171.4 percent from 2019, and the number of individual hikers increased 134.7 percent from the previous year.

Not surprisingly, sales of hiking boots and outdoor gear have picked up, too. And as is often the case with hobbies, consumers tend to upgrade as

D U T T E R

their enthusiasm grows. (One only need look at the $5,000-plus carbonframe race bikes zipping around Central Park to realize that if it makes the ride more enjoyable—and the rider more fashionable—it’s deemed a worthy investment.) Hiking, of course, is much easier on the wallet. A sturdy pair of boots or versatile trail runners costs in the low hundreds, max. What’s more, hiking is relatively safe and easy for most people to do whenever, wherever and in most weather conditions. That’s why many industry experts expect continued growth in the years ahead.

Here, six brand executives discuss how they are meeting the growing demand with new products and ways to keep the momentum going.

PETER SACHS

General Manager, Lowa Boots What’s new for 2021? The Taurus GTX in mid and low versions. It’s targeted at day hikers and is more value priced at $180 & $160, respectively. These light hikers are PU-injected with

2021 april/may • footwearplusmagazine.com 21

The Taurus GTX is aimed at day hikers.

Monowrap, split leather and fabric uppers and waterproof and breathable with Gore-Tex liners. We also introduced the Maddox at $150 for walkers. This light, sporty shoe is great for those who are getting outside and walking for fresh air and fitness. They feature breathable athletic uppers and are built on a dual density DynaPU midsole for stability and cushioning.

Is there a category Lowa is addressing/expecting growth from most going forward? This is like trying to see the forest through the trees right now, because almost everything is exceeding expectations.

However, we are focused on our Everyday Outdoor category for 2022 with models that are true outdoor shoes but can be worn every day.

More to come on that soon.

Might Lowa address a more mainstream consumer in terms of distribution? Our distribution is generally specialty focused, and we’re sticking to that and have actually opened more new specialty accounts in the past 12 months than in the previous two to three years combined because retailers want authentic product for consumers who are really getting into the outdoors. We feel zero need to go downstream.

Any tips for retailers looking to meet this growing interest in hiking and other outdoor activities? Know your local market. Where are the local hiking trails and parks? Do some research to know what is available in your county and state for outdoor recreation. For shoe shops, carry good socks and care products. Maybe also carry some trekking poles and other items that sell well with hiking boots and shoes. Know the product and know the category. Don’t carry just an item or a low price point and think you have outdoors covered.

In addition to products, what other ways is Lowa trying to make sure this broader interest in the outdoors isn’t short-lived? We have four demo centers where consumers can test boots before they buy. One is at the YMCA of the Rockies in Estes Park, CO, and the others are with the AMC (Appalachian Mountain Club) at the Mohican Outdoor Center in Blairstown, NJ, Harriman State Park in Sloatsburg, NY, and at Pinkham Notch in Pinkham’s Grant, NH. Last year we also did a social media campaign with Deuter packs and Leki poles (#venturelocally) where we asked consumers to show us pictures of what they were doing outdoors. The variety of activities was fun and engaging! We will relaunch this in mid-May with those partners. We also launched LOWA Live on Instagram, which is an ongoing series of interviews with our athlete ambassadors. The goal here is for them to share some of their experiences to inspire others and relate how the outdoors can be accessible and achievable.

Why might this broader interest in the outdoors represent an ongoing macro lifestyle shift? The scary part of Covid-19 may be receding

22 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2021

as vaccination rates grow, but there’s an indelible imprint in consumers’ minds about being in crowded places. The openness and health aspects of being outdoors, whether you’re hiking, biking, birding, etc. is appealing if, for no other reason, than stress relief. The outdoors is a new comfort zone. Many customers will go back to the cathedral tour of Rome or the family trip to Disney, and that’s great. But they’ve had some great experiences in the past year, and if they do those on just a few weekends or days off in the years ahead, the market will have grown.

TONY POST

CEO, Topo Athletic What’s new for 2021? We are launching a variety of new products now through February of 2022, including updates to some of our awardwinning trail models. With more consumers discovering/rediscovering the benefits of outdoor recreation, awards have played a major role in guiding the decisions of today’s savvy shoppers. In a world that doesn’t really need another footwear brand, expert reviews have catapulted Topo into the spotlight; they’ve helped us broadcast our mission to create shoes that truly deliver a better experience that can keep people active for longer. Some of our recent recognitions include REI Co-op Editors’ Choice Award for the Trailventure, Runner’s World and Wired featuring the Ultraventure Pro in their roundups of the best new trail shoes, and Ultrarunning Magazine named our Ultraventure 2 as the Best Trail Shoe this spring. We can’t wait to launch the MTN Racer 2 next month, which Road Trail Run hailed as their “most favorite Topo yet.”

Is there a category Topo is addressing/expecting growth from most going forward? We’re seeing a great balance in business across genders and product categories. Road and trail are flourishing equally and we expect business overall to grow as we expand our retail footprint both domestically and abroad. I will add that we were pleasantly surprised by the success of our recovery line. It has sold out multiple times over. We look forward to expanding our offerings in this category later this year.

In what ways might Topo be addressing the needs of the more mainstream customer in terms of products and possibly distribution?

Topo is fundamentally a very inclusive brand by design. Despite making products that achieve high performance and technical marks, we still retain a big focus on fit, comfort and craftsmanship. We believe in building tiers of product, and although every product in our trail category will feature Vibram soles by this fall, we make some great entry-level product that is very accessible to people new to outdoor recreation. Because we put so much emphasis on our fit and feel, consumers new to Topo can still find comfort and confidence in our shoes by picking their preferred level of cushion, drop and a variety of other features.

The MTN Racer 2: light, fast and flashy.

In addition to products, what other ways is Topo trying to make sure this broader interest in the outdoors lives on? We are big advocates for preserving wild spaces. We’ve been a long-standing member of The Conservation Alliance, and every Earth Day we donate a percentage of our revenue (not profit) to help protect our public lands and outdoor recreation. This year, we’ll be participating in the second iteration of The Conservation Alliance’s #WeKeepItWild Coalition Giving Campaign and donated five percent of our online sales during Earth Day week. We also work with organizations like Camber Outdoors and The Outdoor CEO Pledge to create equitable work spaces in our industry that support a diverse generation of outdoor enthusiasts to come.

Why might this broader interest in the outdoors represent a macro lifestyle shift? One of the few good things to come from the pandemic and people seeking refuge from it in outdoor spaces is that it cultivated a deeper connection and respect for the gift of nature during a time when we were simultaneously battling the natural course of evolution. Outdoors suddenly became one of the only safe places to be in the presence of others. I believe that feeling—that primal connection that many of us had lost—will be hard to forget and will be something people will continue to return to. The important work that needs to continue post-pandemic is making outdoor spaces accessible and safe for everyone, to diversify the outdoors so that it can be enjoyed across all generations, identities, lifestyles and demographics.

CHRIS HUFNAGEL President, Merrell

What’s new for 2021? We’re continuing to lean into what we do best and what we’re known for, which is innovative design, durability, out-of-the box comfort and versatility for all outdoor adventures with the goal of empowering everyone to confidently explore the outdoors—from backyards to backwoods. Our new collections cater to all outdoor activities, from walking to hiking or simply running errands. The best example of this is the continuous reinvention of our Moab collection, the best-selling hiking boot around the globe. We’re taking it a step further with the launch of an extension into trail running with Moab Flight, which has already been recognized with award-winning product reviews as a “go-to outdoor shoe.” We’re also launching Moab Speed, built for more rugged athletic hikes while delivering on style and colorful designs. Furthermore, we’re excited about our lead innovation in the winter category with Thermo Rogue 3, a lightweight, elite athletic hiking boot which launches later this year and has already received international award recognition for its top quality and functionality.

In what ways might Merrell be addressing the needs of the mainstream consumer? We believe everyone should be welcome in the outdoors and always say that the trail is for everyone. As a brand, we strive to be welcoming, approachable and inclusive to all—from the extreme outdoor enthusiast to the outdoor rookie. Our products are meant to help people feel adventurous, confident, empowered and like they belong. For example, earlier this year we collaborated with Jenny Bruso and @UnlikelyHikers on a unique iteration of Merrell’s Zion hiking boot in an ungendered colorway available in a range of extended sizes. Seeing a need to have more diversity represented in the outdoors, Jenny set out to build a community of hikers and adventurers of all shapes, sizes, genders and abilities. This collab further welcomes the

underrepresented outdoors person to explore confidently. With this approach of getting more people into the outdoors, we strive to make sure our shoes are available where they are shopping. We are continuing to invest in building out our Merrell.com site for consumers who prefer to shop online. In addition to being in specialty outdoor shops like REI where our more advanced products are sold, we offer a range of products at stores like Dick’s Sporting Goods and DSW.

Thermo Rouge 3 boots: like snow tires for your feet.

In addition to products, what other ways is Merrell trying to make sure this broader interest in the outdoors continues? Merrell is celebrating its 40th birthday this year with a mission to build an inclusive and sustainable outside environment for future generations to enjoy. We’re proud to partner with organizations and support causes with like-minded values. Earlier this year, we joined forces with Big Brothers Big Sisters to bring the power of the outdoors to more youth, who may not have adequate access to natural parks or public trails, with the goal of raising awareness and increasing equity for all. Additionally, we’ve been a strong supporter of The Conservation Alliance for over 10 years, advocating for community-based campaigns to help protect threatened wild habitat and outdoor recreation. Beyond our partnerships, we’re always looking for ways to honor the outdoors year-round. For example, in June we will be celebrating Great Outdoors Month where we will be encouraging people to take more time to explore the outdoors.

Why might this broader interest in the outdoors represent a macro lifestyle shift? The pandemic opened consumers’ eyes to the simple power of spending time outside. During a time of uncertainty, the outdoors has represented a place of peace, happiness, escape, adventure, safety and beyond. These new outdoor hobbies have impacted our lifestyles permanently and we don’t believe that anyone will take that for granted again. Consumers have developed a deeper appreciation for the outdoors during Covid-19 and flocked to products in the hiking, trail running and other outdoor categories. We don’t see this newfound love of outdoor activities slowing down and we want to continuously serve our brand’s fans in this space with products that allow them to enjoy being outside at all speeds, from walking to running to trekking.

TOM DIXON

National Sales Manager Outdoor, Ecco What’s the focus for 2021? Hybridization and multi-purpose is definitely our biggest opportunity. We have had a focus on this type of crossover product for a few years and are seeing the benefits, especially during and we expect post-pandemic. It’s about functional and athletic footwear that

2021 april/may • footwearplusmagazine.com 23

has technologies built for the trail but ascetics for an urban environment. Peak to pint, if you will.

How might Ecco’s hybrid approach to design best meet the needs of consumers? The athletic/outdoor hybrid category is one of our main focuses. It’s about fashion-forward, athletic, technical footwear. We’ve been seeing this for years in apparel, and footwear is just getting there.

For us, it’s styles like our new MX, which is built on a robust sole that draws inspiration from motocross, lending it added grip and stability. It features a neoprene sock-like construction for a snug fit and the overall design evokes a smart, street-style aesthetic. In addition, our Exowrap sport sandal is a versatile design that can just as easily be worn in the elements, around town or at the beach. And our Biom 2.0, an update of a shoe originally designed for triathletes, is a futuristic-looking trail runner that features water-saving DriTan leather uppers, a Fluidform midsole technology that provides full support by holding the midfoot in place through a PU side-frame and heel through the unique wraparound design of the sole, while the rubber outsole creates full contact with the terrain for excellent grip and stability.

In what ways might Ecco be addressing the needs of the mainstream customer in terms of distribution? The specialty store certainly remains an important avenue for success as those retailers hold a lot of knowledge and credibility. But the consumer is also much more intuitive these days and the online aspect of research is almost always a factor.

As a shoe brand that has multiple categories, we want to make sure that we can serve and educate our customers about all our divisions and their individual competencies and success. Being able to tell our story consistently digitally through our channels, our wholesale partners and other means is an important strategy moving forward.

Any tips for retailers looking to meet this growing interest in the outdoors? Let new customers approach the outdoors in their own way.

There is no right or wrong way to get into this lifestyle. A “hike” can mean many different things. For some, it’s summiting a 14er in Colorado, while for others it’s a weekend walk with the family. Let people move at their own pace and have some self-discovery. Once they are in, nurture those relationships and educate them on how certain products, classes, nutrition, etc. can enhance their experience.

Does this growing interest in the outdoors involve a much broader demographic? Yes, and that has always been Ecco’s approach to the outdoors. We aren’t top of the mountain people. We believe that the

Fast and furious: the MX trail runner revs with a motocrossinspired outsole.

outdoors is for everyone and there should be no barrier to entry. Our hashtag is #betheoutsider and I think that speaks well to who we want to serve. We make the product with the functionality for the hardcore outdoors person but try to make it in a more approachable design and make sure our messaging connects. We’ve seen a lot of new customers come into the outdoors over the last year—a lot of latent demand for getting outdoors. It’s now our job as an industry to make sure they don’t leave. We must show them the long-term benefits of an outdoor and active lifestyle. When it comes to footwear, specifically, we must show them that a boot or shoe doesn’t have to be meant for one intended purpose and their spending power can go much further.

DAVIDE CALCAGNOTTO

COO, Garmont International North America

What’s new for 2021? The outdoors has been seen as a safe place by a broader community of consumers who don’t necessarily need the most super technical gear. What they do need is durable, comfortable, quality gear, such as our Vetta Tech GTX. This new Fall/Winter ’21 introduction is a versatile and lightweight boot that combines the design and

Vetta Tech GTX: an approach shoe aesthetic in the comfort of a hiker.

technical features typical of an approach shoe with the versatility and comfort of a hiking boot. The mid cut protects the ankle and provides both flex and stability for better foot control even under a heavy load.

The new last consolidates the technical performance of our iconic Vetta GTX model for approach and combines it with a wrapped fit that delivers enough volume in the forefoot to deliver exceptional comfort.

The abrasion-resistant suede leather upper features ultralight Efoam inserts on the toe box and heel area for added protection. EFoam is an innovative material that guarantees not only excellent mechanical performance, but also considerable elasticity and flexibility and does not contain pollutants such as DMF or PVC. Is there a category Garmont is targeting especially going forward?

Garmont has always been known for its very technical, mountaineering product; that’s our heritage and we’ll always do our best to embrace that. However, the broader community of outdoor participants don’t necessarily need the most features-packed gear; they need the same key product attributes such as quality, durability and comfort. Which is why, in addition to our more specific mountaineering products, we also offer more all-round footwear options—a boot or shoe that can be

24 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2021

worn from your house to the mountains, without the need of changing before the trail head.

In what ways might Garmont be addressing the needs of this more mainstream customer beyond product? We’ve built our brand on a passion for the outdoors and a love of adventure. Through our digital media channels, we dialogue directly also with this more mainstream consumer, sharing our passion, inspiring them to get outdoors, helping them learn about new activities and places to explore, and providing product information and suggestions. For example, the forced stop due to the pandemic led many consumers to reconsider the importance of reconnecting with nature and leading a more sustainable lifestyle. They are placing growing attention to the impact their choices have on the environment, and as an outdoor-loving company dedicated to developing product for the outdoor consumer, we’re mindful of the importance of social responsibility and the conscientious use of resources. Through our work processes, best practices, policies and products, we place attention on the impact of our actions both on our environment and on our community.

Why might Garmont be optimistic that this broader interest in the outdoors represents an ongoing macro lifestyle shift? This broader interest in the outdoors began years before the arrival of Covid-19, but the past year has hopefully helped accelerate and transform this interest into a more permanent lifestyle shift.

MARK SMITH

Marketing Director, In-Sport Fashions, distributors of Mono Footwear

minimalist design aesthetic means you can own one versatile product, instead of needing two unique pieces. Finally, the quality of the boots and shoes are made to the highest standards, which adds an element of sustainability to the brand’s offering.

Who is the Mono target consumer and how may that play into your distribution strategy? The short/easy answer is almost everyone as we want the outdoors to be as inclusive as possible. But I think our target customer definitely leans towards mountain culture, or at least spends some time off paved paths. We want to speak to people looking for adventures in the outdoors, but if we see it in the local bar, we’re fine with that too. That’s why we’re targeting outdoor retailers, big and small, because not only is our product technical, it also appeals to the outdoor masses. And with the trend of fashion and outdoor worlds intermingling, we’ll also look at certain fashion accounts that understand the appeal of a minimalist, well-made leather boot.

In addition to products, what other ways might you be trying to make sure this broader interest in the outdoors isn’t short-lived? We are only beginning this journey in North America, but this is something we will be working on. The outdoors needs to be accessible to everyone, but also demystified so that people realize it isn’t just about summiting huge peaks and camping in the cold. A hike can be five minutes, five miles or

Made in the suede: from Mono Footwear’s classic Hiking collection.

Why might Fall ’21 be particularly good timing for Mono to enter the North American market? First, there has been an astounding increase in people heading to the mountains during the pandemic, which has obviously led to significant interest in footwear that can tackle any adventure. Second, there is a trend where the outdoor aesthetic is being embraced by the fashion world, and so more and more urban dwellers are looking into beautifully made products that can exist in the city but also hold up if they choose to venture out.

What does Mono offer from a product perspective to meet this growth in consumers discovering/rediscovering the benefits of outdoor recreation? The Mono Footwear collection is skewed towards the outdoor adventurer and so there are many different hiking boot options for everyone. Mono also makes a high-quality product where, on select models, you’ll find Vibram outsoles, the finest Italian leathers and most boots made in Portugal. Other interesting facts about Mono that will broaden the customer base is that models are unisex and many come with the option of a shearling lining, helpful for those in colder climates. That said, the heart and soul of Mono is its family of hiking boots. Because people are getting out of the cities more and more, and wanting products that last, we see our Hiking, Hiking Core and Hiking Core Cap collections performing well in North America.

How might Mono differ from other brands in the marketplace?

The classic, timeless designs of Mono mean you can acquire boots that can tackle a long hike, but also look great in the city. Our Scandinavian

five weeks, but just getting out there is the point. We want to partner with people, brands and non-profits that enable people to experience what we have been experiencing for decades.

Why might you be optimistic that this broader and growing interest in the great outdoors represents a macro lifestyle shift? Having distributed outdoor brands for over 30 years, we love the outdoors and are always excited to see new people discover it. The outdoors is now more accessible than ever. People are being more mindful of their quality of life and how physical activity like walking can improve that.

There’s also the exodus from the cities as people try to find a better work-life equilibrium. All these aspects combined will mean more people falling for nature, and although we might not retain everyone, it will most certainly be a macro lifestyle shift. •

2021 april/may • footwearplusmagazine.com 25

Merrell x Unlikely Hikers Zion waterproof boots feature bellows tongue to keep out debris, protective toe caps, Kinetic Fit Base contoured insoles, lightweight FlexPlate for tortional rigidity and Vibram MegaGrip outsoles.

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From top: Hoka One One TenNine GTX hikers feature Hubble heel design for efficient heel-to-toe traction, Vibram Litebase outsoles combined with MegaGrip traction, EVA midsoles, ripstop uppers made of recycled polyester and Gore-Tex Leaf linings to seal out moisture while releasing heat; Garmont Integra High WP Thermal women’s hikers feature Anatomically Directed Design construction, allowing feet to naturally stabilize, absorb shock and propel forward; asymmetrical cuffs for better edging and stability; and Vibram Ice Trek outsoles.

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Jaida nylon/suede plush boots by Lamo feature premium faux-fur linings and collars and Lamo-Lite EVA outsoles.

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Xplor hybrid hikers

by Florsheim feature water-resistant leather uppers, breathable mesh collars and linings, removable Comfortech footbeds and all-terrain rubber outsoles.

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From top: Timberland Solar Ridge Mid boot with TimberDry waterproof membrane made of 50 percent recycled plastic, GreenStride comfort sole made of 75 percent sugar cane and 50 percent recycled plastic ReBOTL fabric lining; Oboz Sphinx women’s mid-height hiker features 200 grams of PrimaLoft Bio insulation, waterproof nubuck leather, Oboz B-Dry waterproof membrane and Vibram ArcticGrip A.T. outsole.

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From top: Wilderness boot by Wolverine features waterproof and breathable suede/ mesh upper with TPU reinforcement molding, moisture-managing mesh lining, removable cushioned footbed, EVA midsole and rubber lug outsole; Western Chief Burnett Realtree boot with waterproof neoprene lining, memory foam insole and lightweight EVA outsole; wool-lined hiker by Gabor features latex insole and Rolling Soft construction for optimum cushioning, stability and forward motion.

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Twisted X x Mossy Oak chukkas feature molded rubber outsoles, compression-molded midsoles made of sugar cane molasses and ecoTWX fabric uppers made from recycled water bottles.

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Lowa Innox Pro GTX Mid hikers feature lightweight DynaPU midsoles for rebound, durability and cushioning; Gore-Tex waterproof linings; Monowrap frame for added stability; and 100 percent vegan construction.

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Clockwise from top: Skechers GOrun Trail Altitude features responsive Ultra Light midsole, breathable Air-Cooled Goga mat insole, water-repellent leather/ mesh upper and multi-directional traction lug outsole; Ecco MX women’s trail runner features sock-like construction for a snug fit, anatomical FluidForm last for stability, water-saving DriTan leather and mesh fabric uppers, reflective collar ribbon and pull tab and motocross-inspired PU outsole with TPU insert for added stability; Tega bootie by Minnetonka features weatherresistant nylon uppers, pile lining for warmth, cushioned insole and Heavily Treaded outsole; Sunsetter NTX hiker

by Vasque features one-piece suede upper, molded mesh collar, Nature-Tex 50 percent recycled waterproof membrane, 100 percent recycled mesh liner, EVA midsole and Micro Plus outsole; Topo women’s mid-height hiker features Vibram XS Trek EVO outsole for traction on varied terrain, protective rear foot rock place and rubber toe cap, molded ankle collar, lightweight ripstop mesh upper with drainage ports, and a lace lock system offering two tensions for a customized and secure fit.

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Clockwise from top: Tecnica Magma Mid GTX suede hiker features Gore-Tex waterproof lining, Vibram Lightbase and MegaGrip outsole that wraps at key abrasion zones and oversized heel design for stability when hiking downhill or on uneven terrain; Mono Footwear Hiking Core Cap boot features a leather rand for extra support in all conditions, shearling lining, EVA midsole and durable rubber outsole; Propét Valais suede/nubuck boot features a zipper closure plus a hook-and-loop top strap, removable OrthoLite X40 insole, waterproof lining, Vibram ArcticGrip AT-All Terrain outsole and available in medium, XW and XXW. Fashion editor: Ann Loynd Burton; Models: Chris Flora and Kristina Elise/Fenton Model Mgmt.; Photo Assistant: Tara Campbell. Socks from Loops & Wales.

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Bearpaw Brock suede/mesh hikers feature NeverWet coating to repel stains, waterproof linings, removable mesh footbeds with memory foam linings, EVA midsole and durable rubber outsole.

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EDITOR’S PICKS

L’Artiste

D E S I G N E R C H AT

J E F F RU D E S • L’A G E N C E ON THE HEELS of a new license agreement with Titan Industries, L’Agence is upping its footwear game, beginning with its Fall ’21 collection. Jeff Rudes, CEO and creative director of the Los Angelesbased label known for its blend of California cool with an understated Parisian influence, is chomping at the bit as he believes a pent-up desire among women wanting to dress up again awaits.

“I feel fall will open up for brickand-mortar shopping, and women will want to dress sophisticated and sexy again—she’s had enough lounge,” Rudes affirms. The designer had already been encouraged after tipping his toe into the footwear market last fall that with a tight collection that, despite the pandemic-induced challenges, performed well, he says. Rudes decided to take it to the next level with Titan Industries, makers of Badgley Mischka and Jewel Badgley Mischka, and led by industry veteran Joe Ouaknine and the company’s strong track record. “The team has flawlessly executed samples for all launch needs, which is the most difficult task,” Rudes says.

As for L’Agence’s fall collection, it starts with an emphasis on a particular luxe material: “Suede, suede, suede…in earth tones with an emerald color pop along with exotic skins, such as python and leopard, in classic shoes and boots,” Rudes explains, adding that the overall theme is sophisticated and easy-chic. “There’s a strong emphasis on dressing jeans with boots,” he says. Rudes cites French Vogue Editor in Chief Emmanuel Alt for her easy sophistication and Kate Moss for her cool, sexy attitude as muses for the collection. Along those lines, L’Agence already counts an impressive celebrity clientele—Angelina Jolie, Charlize Theron, Cindy Crawford, Karlie Kloss, Kate Beckinsale, Jennifer Lopez, Kaia Gerber and Scarlet Johansson, to name a few, who regularly sport its 12 annual collections of easy-to-wear wardrobe staples and relevant fashion looks.

The season’s easy-chic shoe theme is right in L’Agence’s wheelhouse as Rudes, the co-founder of J Brand, describes the label’s head-to-toe aesthetic as “clean, simple, sexy, sophisticated and, most importantly, wearable.” That last aspect, he notes, best captures its blend of California ease and French elegance. “California 38 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2021

Enjoiya

BAC K T O C OOL Oxfords get smart with fresh prints and cutout details.

has an easy and warm weather lifestyle, while the French attitude is a sophisticated and sexy look, but the two inspirations are never too serious,” he explains. “The shoes are designed for an easy and wearable experience with making a woman feel and look beautiful as our mission.” It helps, he adds, that the collection of boots, pumps, sandals and flats (SRP: $350-$450) also just look great with jeans. “The jeans paired with our shoes and boots are an incredible sexy look; it doesn’t get much better than that if you desire getting the looks,” Rudes says.

and dressing again. But L’Agence keeps it simple and classic: three-inch heels so she can wear them to work and all day. No five-inch heels; that’s not us.

Who are some designers you admire?

Azzedine Alaia, Ralph Lauren and Giorgio Armani. Azzadine for making women look incredibly sexy and stunning. Ralph and Giorgio for their tried-and-true and timeless point of views.

Is there a perfect shoe? The black suede pump—every woman must have a pair in her closet. You can’t ever go wrong with black pumps with most looks you can pull from your closet—and it gets the looks.

Who is the L’Agence woman and what is she looking for in her fashion purchases?

She has style and knows what looks good on her. Her L’Agence purchases are about looking and feeling beautiful. That’s what she can count on from us.

What was the best piece of design advice you were ever given? Keep it simple and don’t try too hard anywhere—it will show.

Many have said the dress shoe category— high heels, in particular—are not part of the pandemic-induced new normal.

What is your response to that? It hasn’t been heels while we were in lockdown and no one was going out. But I believe this fall is when the roof blows open for shopping

What do you love most about designing?

I love making a woman feel beautiful—it’s about touching her emotion. The shoe, next to jeans, are one of the most emotional pieces in her closet, next to intimate apparel and bathing suits. For me, the shoe is the common denominator.

E D I TO R ’ S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY N A N C Y C A M P B E L L

All Black

GREEN & HEARD

Allbirds, Pensole Team on Sustainability Design Program AIMED AT IDENTIFYING and nurturing the next generation of sustainabilitydriven designers, Allbirds and Pensole Design Academy are introducing the BRD (Better Responsible Design) program.

Twenty young designers will be given access to industry experts and professional instruction, focused on equipping them with the tools they need to create environmentally-conscious work.

Allbirds and Pensole will source talent from historically black college universities and art and design colleges nationwide, alongside gifted amateurs looking to break into the footwear space. Participants will emerge with an understanding of the challenges and opportunities of working with natural fibers through guest lectures from Allbirds product leaders and the Color Material Accelerated program from MLab at Pensole, as well as a how to design with carbon intensity in mind. At the end of the eight-week program, two graduates will be chosen to join Allbirds for a three-month internship, where they will refine their knowledge of the sustainable design space and have the potential to play a pivotal role in ideating, designing and developing commercialized Allbirds shoes.

Dr. D’Wayne Edwards, founder of Pensole, believes the BRD program arrives not a moment too soon. “More and more brands are moving towards trying to create a more sustainable future for their products but, in my opinion, they are not moving fast enough,” he says. “Sustainability needs to be a part of how brands design, not just so they can say their products are more sustainable; this needs to be a new ‘design language.’”

In fact, on a sustainability scale of one through 10, Edwards ranks the industry currently at about a one, which means there’s loads of room for improvement.

“There’s so much more possibility for what the future will hold for the footwear industry around sustainability,” he says, noting the industry needs to create a universal sustainability score so it can be held accountable and consumers can be better educated on what sustainability is and looks like. “And once more brands

make it their design language, we’ll see products change as well as companies become more profitable because they will have more efficient manufacturing, less wasted samples, reduction in SKUs, better inventory management and higher-weighted margins seasonally.”

Edwards adds, “I see sustainability not just as a product solution, but as a way to do business better.”

“The next generation of designers will be instrumental in developing the kind of innovative solutions required to push the footwear industry toward a more sustainable future,” says Tim Brown, co-founder and co-CEO of Allbirds. “It’s of the utmost importance that we create an inclusive space for creative ingenuity to flourish, and we could not have found a better partner than Pensole to help us achieve this goal.”

Edwards says the partnership feeling is mutual. Not only is the brand at the forefront of sustainable design, he says Allbirds has stood out as a maverick business model from the get-go.

“I’ve been around for more than three decades and have seen a lot of product launches, but Allbirds stood out because they launched with one shoe,” he says.

“They’re probably the only brand to do that in the last 20 years; it was a brilliant move because they put their stake in the ground and said, ‘This is who we are. Love it or hate it.’”

Edwards believes such boldness and how Allbirds has improved upon that one design each year has been critical to its success. “Their relentless pursuit to get it right before moving onto more styles has helped them design their future styles smarter,” he says, adding that being a certified B-Corp was another smart move. “They’re transparent about who they are and what they do, which invites consumers into their company and, for a new brand, that’s a great way to gain support.” He adds, “I see Allbirds as more of a business case study on how to launch a sustainable brand that also makes a sustainable product.”

Applications for the BRD program are open through May 24. The course starts June 7. Log onto Pensole.com for more details.

continued from page 8 made with a high level of natural and biodegradable materials.

And my new Nike Air Max Plus kicks are made of at least 20 percent recycled materials by weight and, even better, the 67 percent recycled felt uppers look like marble—super cool! We all know shoes need to be of value for consumers: the right fit, price and comfort, but the sustainable aspects are becoming a key part of the marketing story that consumers are buying into. While it hasn’t been easy and the Green rocks: Nike Air Max Plus

sustainability efforts introduced by companies have taken years to gain acceptance, it’s finally starting to pay dividends. And new collections featuring the latest sustainable materials and constructions are building on this story. It’s like a (green) snowball gathering momentum and mass as

“It’s called circularity, a shoe that can be recycled to make another shoe out of those same materials. Everyone is talking about it.” it rolls downhill. The key is to just do it. Companies must build a genuine culture around sustainability for it to be successful. Such a commitment builds mind and muscle to innovate further, not to mention in ways that can improve the bottom line.”

The Holy Grail of Green: “It’s called circularity, a shoe that can be recycled to make another new shoe out of those same materials. Everyone is talking about it, but we are nowhere near that achievement because of how shoes are currently constructed and the multiple materials that are used. But we’re getting closer, and brands are starting to work together on what that means at a waste management structure. It requires a transformation in how we design and make shoes so they can be easily deconstructed and/or the materials can decompose. Right now, the industry needs to work together on recycling shoes for other industrial uses as a goal to keep more shoes out of landfills and figure out the path to circularity along the way. Part of that path is repairing and donating shoes and working with agencies like Soles 4 Soles to direct consumers to donate shoes to people in need instead of tossing them in the trash. That’s a great, baby step to achieving circularity.”

2021 april/may • footwearplusmagazine.com 39

L A S T SH O T

The Heidi Chronicles

Mono

Remonte

Cougar

Alpine Inclined 40 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2021

Yodel-ay-hee-hoo!

A retro palette of classic hikers echo the past beautifully.

P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I SS

Birkenstock

Featur ing Aetr ex or thotic suppor t and me mor y foam cushioning for supe r ior comfor t