Earnshaw's | June 2018

VOLUME 102 NUMBER 5

JUNE 201 8 $10.00

RUN THE SCHOOL This school year doesn't stand a chance.

sales@ulcapparel.com 212-391-4143

J U N E 2018 CONTENTS

FEATURES 6 The Licensing Experience As consumer fatigue continues to rise, licensors rely on experiential partnerships to stay relevant. By Aleda Johnson

Noelle Heffernan Publisher Emily Beckman Editor Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

PAGE 22

8 Tween Queen Sherie Judah, co-owner of American Jewel, on the value of accessories and the even greater importance of staying loyal to retail partners.

By Emily Beckman

EDITORIAL

12 Knocking it Out of the Park Lisa Burik, owner of Frankie’s on the Park, inspires tweens with age-appropriate fashion and the value of giving back. By Emily Beckman

Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager

FASHION 22 Urban Landscape Tweens hit the streets, layering uptown fabrics with downtown cool.

By Mariah Walker

Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor ADVERTISING

PRODUCTION Laurie Guptill Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster Bruce Sprague Circulation Director CORPORATE Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller Caroline Diaco President Group Publisher

DEPARTMENTS 4 Editor’s Note This page: Livi wears

Hudson shirt, Autumn Cashmere sweater, leopard print jacket by Mia New York, Puma joggers, American Jewel headphones, Fun Socks socks and Old Soles silver velcro sneakers; Sheina wears Lanoosh printed pants and Florsheim loafers.

On cover: Xzavier wears Puma sweatshirt.

5 Scene & Heard 15 Trend Watch

Greg Dutter Editorial Director 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300

34 Haute Topics

CONTACT INFO

36 What’s Selling

Sales/Editorial Offices 214 W. 39th St., Suite 205 New York, NY 10018

38 Behind the Seams 40 Final Cut

This page and cover: photography

by Zoe Adlersberg; styling by Mariah Walker/Art Department NY; styling assistant: Gina Maher.

Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 advertising@9threads.com editorialrequests@ 9threads.com Circulation Office 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9threads.com

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 214 West 39th Street, Suite 205 New York, NY 10018.

The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage.

No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

2

E A R N S H AW S . C O M

ELEVATED LIFESTYLE COLLECTIONS FOR CHILDREN

AUGUST 5-7, 2018 JACOB JAVITS CENTER NEW YORK

FEATURING THE DEBUT OF

A highly curated, invitation only segment for elevated and advanced brands.

AUGUST 13-15, 2018 MANDALAY BAY CONVENTION CENTER LAS VEGAS

LOCATION Children’s Club moves to Mandalay Bay Convention Center.

CONNECT WITH US @ childrensclub EMAIL US CS@UBMFASHION.COM

REGISTER TODAY UBMFASHION.COM

EDITOR’S NOTE

Are You Experiential?

O

VERWHELMED AND OVERSTIMULATED, consumers are becoming experts at skimming through life for what matters. Anything too lengthy, too boring, too upsetting, too difficult—anything that causes friction— doesn’t stand a chance as consumers live in a click, tap and scroll world. There’s a reason why Seamless, the food delivery service, is gaining steam in Manhattan: because it is what it’s called. You order online, it’s paid for electronically and there’s no tipping. What’s more, your orders are on file, so you can get that Sunday night Moo Shu veggie platter fix minus the shitake mushrooms (eww) even quicker.

What’s a brick-and-mortar retailer to do? How can schlepping to and from a store with no guarantee of finding what you want be remotely as seamless? News flash: it can’t. That’s why the experience has to be worth the friction of getting there and, quite possibly, an added expense. The décor, vibe, service, selection (the more exclusive the better), entertainment—it all has to be worth the effort. Otherwise, you’re likely shitake out of luck.

Just look at the carnage, be it massive store closings, bankruptcy filings and disappearing altogether. It’s a Who’s Who of former titans that are on the ropes or already down for the count. Granted, a good deal of these knockouts stem from over-expansion, and we’re seeing a necessary correction. The online channel is greasing the wheels.

But consumers are also changing how they shop. The faster and more frictionless you are, the better. There’s a reason why Amazon is in the beta stage of checkout-free supermarkets. No lines! There’s a reason why Instagram has replaced Facebook at the preferred social media platform—easier to post and fewer words to read.

If stores as we now know them have any shot at long-term survival, they must become destinations. They must be get-off-the-couch worthy, convenient and efficient. Take the new Nordstrom Men’s store—a 47,000-square-foot, three-level mecca on Manhattan’s West 57th St. It’s chock-full of merchandise (lots of it exclusive) and features user-friendly services in a spectacular setting. At the Levi’s Tailor Shop, for example, shoppers can custom embroider items, heat press a shirt or get a hem done while they wait. The Samuelson Custom Suit Visualizer is an interactive digital made-to-measure experience at an accessible price. Eton Endless Aisle is a digital touchscreen offering an expended assortment of dress shirts and ties.

Le Labo creates personalized fragrances. Thirsty? Hit the Clubhouse Bar, which also serves meals, while offering views of Central Park.

The Coffee Shop features, among other things, a small batch blend

based in Brooklyn. Draft beer is also on tap, as is a selection of local pastries. Then there’s services like buy online and pickup in store, reserve online and try in store, and three-hour same-day delivery anywhere in Manhattan. In addition, there’s Express Returns kiosks at each entrance, an on-site tailoring department, complimentary personal stylists, a cell phone charging station and a shoeshine stand.

It sounds pretty seamless and definitely fun! Now toss in the aroma of that Brooklyn coffee and the beauty of Central Park…You just can’t experience that online.

You don’t have to be on a scale of Nordstrom, either. Frankie’s on the Park, this month’s profile (p. 12), is the definition of a destination.

Owner Lisa Burik’s tween girl palace in Chicago and offshoot in Santa Monica, CA, go way beyond selection to draw crowds. The stores serve as a community where young girls can shop, customize items in the graffiti bar (Chicago), seek fashion advice and, when needed, get a little reassurance from a caring staff. Frankie’s on the Park are stores shoppers want to go to—often. It’s also a business you want to support, thanks to its extensive community outreach efforts. They include sponsorship of an annual fashion show in support of a local children’s hospital, contributing to school auctions and the recent launch of “Frankie’s Gives Back,” where customers can delegate a portion of their purchase to an array of partner charities. For Burik, who previously owned a healthcare consultancy firm, becoming a retailer offered a fresh start on a new career. Her fresh approach to the business is, well, a breath of fresh air.

Similarly, the experiential element driving into the licensing category is also a refreshing approach jump-starting interest and sales.

It’s about bringing license properties to life. Mattel, for example, is celebrating the 50th anniversary of its Hot Wheels franchise with a slew of events, pop-ups and partnerships. Fans can enjoy a traveling car show and the “Hot Wheels: Race to Win” exhibit at The Children’s Museum of Indianapolis this year, and the multi-year marketing program “Hot Wheels Challengers” is where kids can compete in the Hot Wheels Indycar Junior Grand Prix. It’s just one of several examples featured in our Special Report (p. 6) of how licensing brands are embracing experiential partnerships.

While the pace of change in retail has shifted into high gear, some aspects never change—like consumers deciding where their hard-earned dollars go. The choices today are greater than ever and the competition never fiercer. One must eliminate the friction while elevating the experience if one expects to stay in the fast lane.

E M I LY B E C K M A N Editor

4

E A R N S H AW S . C O M

SC E N E & H E A R D

Wa t c h i t u d e R e l e a s e s A p p l e Wa t c h B a n d s WATCHITUDE IS EXPANDING to the junior market with the launch of trendy watch bands congruent with the Apple smart watch. “Apple makes an incredible product with great styling, but they’re inherent business is not printed fashion,” says Aaron Kassin, executive vice president of global marketing and sales at Watchitude. “That’s why it seemed like a good fit to create a cool accessory to accent an Apple product.”

Available in 17 of the brand’s prints, as well as six licensed designs with Nickelodeon and 12 by Tokidoki, Watchitude has also inked agreements with three emerging artists for 12 additional styles by Marine Weil from Paris, Valeria Caminiti from Milan and Justin Pierce from the U.S. “They all have completely different styles and are all from diverse backgrounds and cultures,” Kassin says.

“The result made for a really cool

assortment allowing our customers a unique mix of product.”

Wholesaling for $15, the bands come in two options (42mm and 38mm) to match standard Apple watch sizes. Each product also comes with an additional half band to adjust to any size wrist. To round out the look, a matching digital watch face can be downloaded from Watchitude’s website.

The official launch for the collection is slated for January 2019 at Children’s Club, but Kassin says a soft launch will occur in August to capitalize on holiday promotions. Looking ahead, the exec says Watchitude will continue its foray into digital with the introduction of a kids’ smart watch along with digital non-slap silicone watches and Bluetooth printed speakers and earbuds in a self-charging printed case. A small collection of girls’ hair accessories are also in the pipeline that complement its prints.

Ooh La La, a Kids’ Spa! SOME PARENTS DEMAND the best for their beloved offspring— the finest clothing, a private education, etiquette lessons and, just in time for vacation season, they can add spa treatments at the Spa Le Bristol by La Prairie and Kids Club in Paris. A partnership between Parisian fashion house Bonpoint and Le Bristol Paris, the Kids Club features a stylish play area, complete with Native American teepees, floral patterned cushions, chalkboard walls, electric car tracks, doll houses, books and a menagerie of stuffed animals. In addition, the spa offers five Bonpoint treatments for parents and their children to enjoy together. There’s the Gentle Facial, where children 6 to 12 years old can receive a hydrating facial and scalp massage, and the Tender Massage, where tweens 12 to 16 enjoy a peaceful tandem massage. Each treatment is developed in conjunction with La Prairie using

natural, hypoallergenic products suitable for the sensitive, delicate skin of children.

“It is a pleasure to share our love for excellence, creativity and beauty with children in this playful setting,” says Bonpoint President Marie-Sabine Leclercq. “As travel has always been our inspiration, we couldn’t think of a more harmonious partner than Le Bristol Paris.”

P i t t i B i m b o Vi s u a l i z e s Vi b r a nt J u n e E d i t i o n PITTI IMMAGINE BIMBO, the international fashion fair for childrenswear, will host its 87th edition at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence from June 21-23. With the theme “Pitti Optical Power,” the trade show will host nearly 600 brands in a whimsical décor of contrasting colors and original patterns. “The theme offers an invitation—a stimulus—to meet, talk and share ideas while absorbing Pitti Immagine’s unique energy,” says CEO Raffaello Napoleone. “Our fairs increasingly offer fertile ground for sharing new, and often unusual, concepts.”

Anticipating more than 10,000 buyers from around the world, the show’s three-day agenda is packed (per usual) with catwalk shows, meetings and events that cover the industry from top to bottom. Some special activities include Dsquared2 celebrating five years of its baby line with a prom dance party and a new capsule collection, as well as the “Monnalisa Garden Party” held in the Torrigiani Garden. Catwalk shows include luxury collections of the Apartment area, as well as brands from the more playful KidzFizz section. There will also be a performance by athleisure brands in Pitti Bimbo’s new #Activelab section.

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

5

S PECI A L R E P OR T

The Licensing Experience AS CONSUMER FATIGUE CONTINUES TO RISE, LICENSORS RELY ON EXPERIENTIAL PARTNERSHIPS TO STAY RELEVANT. BY ALEDA JOHNSON

ATTEL JUST ANNOUNCED its plans for the 50th anniversary of its Hot Wheels license. But unlike the collectible special-edition product or play system you might expect to see rolled into stores, the toy company is planning a slew of events, pop-ups and partnerships for the coming year. Fans can enjoy everything from a traveling car show and the “Hot Wheels: Race to Win” exhibit at The Children’s Museum of Indianapolis to the multi-year marketing program “Hot Wheels Challengers,” where kids compete in the Hot Wheels Indycar Junior Grand Prix. The Hot Wheels’ anniversary campaign is a microcosm of how leaders in licensing are shifting gears to meet changing consumer shopping habits. As shoppers buy less stuff, the question is: Are you experiential?

Sesame Workshop, creators of Sesame Street, is also looking into more event-based licensing programs over the next few years as well, according to Gabriela Arenas, vice president of licensing in North America. “We’ll be growing our partnerships with the Sea Worlds and the beaches of the world,” she says, adding these types of experiences work extremely well with franchises that aren’t always relevant in products. “That type of license makes it easier to create a connection with your audience. For instance, robust properties like the $25 billion Harry Potter franchise saw a boom in revenue with the opening of The Wizarding World of Harry Potter theme parks.”

Other brands are getting in on the experiential aspect, too. PJ Masks

6

E A R N S H AW S . C O M

inked a deal in May with Italian theme park Leolandia to break ground on a PJ Masks-themed attraction to open in 2019. Toei Animation has signed two new licensees to develop experiential events based on the anime programs Dragon Ball, Saint Seiya and Captain Harlock, including a partnership with Overlook events to produce the “Dragon Ball Symphonic Adventure” concert, with 70 musicians interpreting songs and music from the series. The Emoji company and Chessington World of Adventures in the U.K. will also launch a six-week campaign featuring giveaways and a special train at the park in July. In fact, a recent International Licensing Industry Merchandisers’ Association (LIMA) report found that theme parks have become an increasingly important component of many brand licensing strategies as licensors search for innovative ways to leverage their property, enhance brand awareness and connect with fans. It’s about getting kids to take a break from looking at their computers and smartphones—a virtual reality breather—for some real-life fun. Rather than playing with a toy or having a collectible gather dust in a room, brands want the experience to be a memorable one.

Making matters even more challenging for license brands, especially smaller properties, is the dwindling shelf space in stores coupled by a younger generation who cycle through trends and character properties faster than ever. “We have a retail market that is shrinking in some areas,” says Penne Cairoli, president of Laura Ashley USA. “We’re competing with every brand out there, and there are a lot of choices so getting that

floor space secured is the most important.” For The Avengers this year alone have generated those IDs that don’t have an obvious entry into millions in licensing revenue. In the children’s the market, like a movie or TV release, creating market specifically, the biggest players in the experiential licensing opportunities along with licensing game remain “The Three P’s”: Paw moving into the market at a quicker pace is a Patrol, Peppa Pig and PJ Masks. And with way to get a foothold. one quarter of kids’ products featuring a Timing is another challenge, which is only license, according to The NPD Group, there being made more difficult by the increasing is enormous opportunity. pace and volume of entertainment launches In addition to hot properties, the key is thanks to streaming platforms like Netflix, finding the right companies to partner with.

Hulu and Amazon Video. Even YouTube Is the brand’s message clear? Is it something has become a popular platform with unboxthe target demographic will love? Is it worth ing videos and short form content like it to jump into a new category? And, most Masha and the Bear, a Russian animated TV importantly, will it sell? “A licensor is looking series that posts its shorts to YouTube and to generate revenue, build a relationship with garners hundreds of thousands of views each. the licensee and have a comfortable working With content available 24/7, brands and retailrelationship,” Brochstein says. On the flip ers are left guessing when a product will be a side, licensees need to decide their hierarchy hit and how long it should stay in stock. The of goals for taking on a license, whether that’s traditional timing schedule to launch new breaking into the market in a big way, opening Sesame Street’s licensed collection with Puma properties is long gone. “If I’m a retailer plana new distribution channel or adding a new ning to sell product from Stranger Things, I age vertical. “The licensee has to figure out know a good chunk of the audience won’t watch the show until it’s been if the partnership is right for what they’re trying to accomplish, and out for three months,” says Marty Brochstein, senior vice president of that’s something that people don’t pay enough attention to,” he says. industry relations and information at LIMA. “How long do I keep it in The biggest consideration, according to Arenas, is to find like-minded stock?” In response, brands are speeding up the launch dates of their partners. With Sesame Street’s strong mission of education and acceplicensed products, sometimes without waiting to see the success of tance, some companies just don’t mesh even if they might turn a big the property. Peppa Pig, which launched in 2004, waited three years profit or offer greater exposure to a product. “We say no to a lot of things to launch licensing products. PJ Masks, which launched in 2015, only because they don’t align with us,” she says. “It has to stand for somewaited one. The Netflix original series Beat Bugs, which debuted in thing we believe in.” For instance, Sesame Street is very selective about August 2016, launched licensed products nine months later. Another partnerships in the food category because they have to be nutritional Netflix original, Spirit Riding Free, waited just one month after its May with wholesome ingredients. The only exceptions are limited-edition, 2017 drop to launch a line of horse dolls and accessories. short-term releases marketed toward adults like the upcoming 2018 Of course, the best time to launch a licensed partnership is right before license with cupcake maven Baked by Melissa. a property goes viral—like Frozen did in 2013. Alas, no one has a crystal Another key component is finding companies that are the best at what ball. Michael Langfitt, COO of Trimfoot Co. says the timing should be they do. When a partner is already a leader in their industry with triedright for both the licensee and licensor. “We have gotten into licenses and-true methods and a strong consumer following, collaborations are way too soon, and we’ve gotten into licenses at peak to post peak and easier to design. “We expect that our licensees are experts within their neither of those are as fruitful as striking a deal on the uptake,” he says, category and industry, so it’s just a matter of marrying a product with the adding that it’s always a gamble to get it right. “You can risk going in a look of the brand and making sure it works together,” says Cairoli. Most little soon, so you have dominance when it peaks, but hanging on a little brands have a style guide for their identities, and the best collaborations too long could quickly eradicate all the good you did.” For brands left offer a give and take of established design and refreshing ingenuity. scratching their heads, Brochstein says the problem isn’t as bad as it may Arenas will choose partnerships with smaller designers simply because seem because the viewing patterns of children are different than adults. their take on the Sesame Street logo and characters is new and relevant.

“Kids latch onto entertainment the same way they have in the past, even “I love when they stretch their creativity and that creativity resonates if they’re seeing it on an iPad on-demand now,” he says. “They tend to with the multi-generational approach we have,” she says. “We can play stay with characters about the same amount of time as they have in the a lot with our characters, and we have characters not as in the forefront past.” That’s why evergreen properties, like Sesame Street and Disney with our younger demographic, like Bert and Ernie and Snuffy, we can characters, are always a safe bet. play with for the Millennial demographic.”

The licensing market as a whole remains a safe bet, despite the As with any business relationship, it boils down to communication. current challenges. While consumers may be buying less stuff, the When licensors hand over their style guide, they must let licensees know licensing market is still on the uptick. In 2017, the global market grew how much creative leeway they have. For example, when Trimfoot started 3.3 percent to $271.6 billion in retail sales, according to Brochstein. Of working with Sequential Brands Group on its licensing partnership those sales, the largest segment (44.7 percent or $121.5 billion) is based with Jessica Simpson, the family—even Jessica’s mom—was extremely on entertainment and character properties. And when accounting for involved. “We give line presentations to them, and if they see something licensing in the U.S. and Canada, the percentage jumps to 58 percent. we hit on, they’re highly complementary,” Langfitt says. “But if they see But anyone who has walked into a movie theatre recently shouldn’t be something we’re lacking, they have no qualms bringing it to our attensurprised. The slew of comic book blockbusters like Black Panther and

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

7

Q&A

Tween Queen SHERIE JUDAH, CO-OWNER OF AMERICAN JEWEL, ON THE VALUE OF ACCESSORIES AND THE EVEN GREATER IMPORTANCE OF STAYING LOYAL TO RETAIL PARTNERS.

BY E M I LY B E C K M A N

8

E A R N S H AW S . C O M

HAVING BEEN A successful personal trainer for celebs like Bruce Springsteen and Denise Richards, Sherie Judah never anticipated leaving her 25-year, star-studded career to embark on an entirely different routine: that of co-owner of a tween accessories startup. “Fashion certainly wasn’t top of mind when I was a trainer,” Judah says, admitting she would often grab whatever shorts and T-shirt were at the top of her laundry pile before running out the door. “If someone told me I was going to become a designer, I would assume it’d be of fitness equipment—not girls’ accessories.”

But life can be funny sometimes. Often, it’s a twist of fate that can send a person on a completely different career path. In Judah’s case, it was literally a twist of fate in the form of a stretchy hair tie. That’s when, five years ago, Judah’s daughter was home from college one day and showed her mother the stretchy hair ties that were trending amongst her friends. “I immediately thought, ‘My God, these are crap,’” Judah says, perplexed by the low-quality material. “The hair ties frayed and broke so easily that I knew I could create a better version.” She asked her fiancé (now husband) if she could experiment with the swimwear material from the True Religion and Ed Hardy licenses he owned at the time. Judah got to work cutting and tying a more durable version of the hot accessory, completing her newand-improved tie with colorful beads.

But Judah never had any intentions of selling them, or launching an accessories company from scratch, for that matter.

It wasn’t until clients at the gym started asking to buy the accessory off her arm that her attention was brought back to the simple creation. “I was shocked—but also flattered,” she says. “I could never even sew a button, and now people were recognizing me for little accessories I had crafted.”

Judah’s husband insisted that she “had something,” convincing her to get a table at an upcoming swap meet.

(Serendipitously, it took Judah back to her first job as an 8-year-old when she worked at a local swap meet in her native California.) Still, she had no delusions of grandeur. “I recall thinking, ‘It’s a freaking hair tie,’” she says, firmly in denial that her $2.50 accessory could turn into an international business. “Boy, was I wrong.”

Within an hour at that first swap meet, the Judahs’ inventory sold

out. “That’s when I decided to take the business on the road,” she says.

The couple hit the trade show circuit, making stops in Atlanta, Las Vegas, Dallas and New York. It marked six months of steady growth.

But it wasn’t until Justice placed an order that sales surged. “We could barely keep up,” Judah says, adding that they’ve now settled into a 15,000-square-foot warehouse in Valencia, CA, with a staff of around 35 employees. Illustrative of her selfproclaimed motto, “expect the unexpected,” Judah now sits at the helm of a fast growing, multi-million-dollar tween accessory business. Alongside her husband, Saul, American Jewel manufactures hundreds of trendy SKUs for tweens annually. Just in the past four years, the business has grown to offer an expansive range of glitter totes, makeup bags, pompom caps, charm chokers, phone purses, animal-eared headphones and the company’s best-selling “Yummy Gummy” scented bags. Retailers report that it’s tough to keep the goods in stock.

One kiosk owner in Puerto Rico says she sold out while still unpacking the order.

Another retailer from Nashville informed Judah at the Atlanta Gift Show last year that American Jewel was solely responsible for covering her store’s rent.

Over this brief span, American Jewel has also won “Best Showroom” in Dallas and Atlanta, as well as regularly receives high praise from New York and L.A. reps. The proof is in American Jewel’s high turns rate. The average order for accessories is about five to seven turns per year, according to Judah. “We’re getting about three to four times that number at 16 to 20 orders from each store,” she says, noting that the brand is now stocked in more than 4,000 doors worldwide in countries such as Dubai, Australia, Mexico and the United Kingdom, to name a few. “It’s amazing to hear the success that our products have brought to retailers,” Judah says. “And to

2 0 1 8 J U N E • E A R N S H AW S .C O M

er_06_18_q&a.03.indd 9

9

5/25/18 1:53 PM

Q&A think it all started with hair ties.”

But just like any personal trainer worth their salt, Judah is only just getting started. Expect lots more going forward—more items, more frequency of delivery and more assistance for its loyal retail partners.

“In this highly competitive retail environment, that is only growing more competitive, our secret is simple: Stay loyal to our retail partners and true to ourselves,” Judah says. “Stop worrying what everyone else is doing and focus on coming out with original products to please those that support us in their daily grind.”

How do you stay on top of the fast-paced tween market?

There’s about 15 fashion colleges that I keep an eye on at all times. I find it beneficial to watch what college girls are up to, as they inspire younger girls. In addition, I always have my nose in fashion reports and magazines. But it’s not your stereotypical Vogue—that’s too harsh for our market. Most of my inspiration comes from fitness magazines where I can hone in on those lifestyle-driven athleisure trends tweens love.

Other than that, I listen to my retail partners about what they think will give their customer that “wow” factor when they walk in.

What’s trending of late?

Lots of patterns, as well as tons of glitter and iridescent materials. Designers are combining all the sparkly elements into giant masterpieces.

Less is not necessarily more with this trend, and I suspect it’s going to be at least two years before all this iridescent stuff wears out.

ARE OUR CUSTOMERS, AND WE DON'T WANT TO COMPETE WITH THEM. ”

What’s the next trendy animal expected to hit the scene?

Pandas! Pandas will be coming in hot, and we’re ready with a panda backpack that has a fur hood with ears. It’s so freaking cute. We also offer the same design in cat and unicorn options.

How often do you introduce new product?

As often as possible. Our rule of thumb is every three months. Our retailers never get bored that way and their customers always have something to look forward to. In today’s retail landscape, newness is the key to survival. The faster you change up your selection, the harder

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

Is the retail climate as volatile as it appears?

Yes! It’s no joke out there. I am honestly nervous for our industry. One of my favorite parts of doing business is going to the shows and seeing the shop owners, which kills me when I hear about them struggling. As a brand, I want to do everything I can to help them stay afloat.

“RETAILERS

Any new additions that have performed exceptionally well?

Our cat and unicorn headphones have been definitely an exciting venture. We started with the cat headphones around Christmas time, and I was a bit nervous because we’d never done electronics. We were very careful with the safety regulations, checking to make sure the volume didn’t have the possibility of damaging a child’s ears—even at full blast. We started with a small quantity (about 6,000 pieces) to see what would happen. Turns out the glittery kitty design was a hit, which is what prompted us to add unicorn headphones.

10

it is for Amazon to keep up, which gives retailers a chance to sell it first.

Like?

Whenever I design a new line, I make sure it tells a story so the retailer doesn’t have to try hard to make sense of it. Our new Disco Vibes collection caught such great reactions with the fur, glitter and metallic that all ties together in one cohesive story. The backpack matches the fur duffle bag, which matches the hat, which matches the wristlet, which matches the pencil case and so on. It creates a snowball effect when the customer goes to buy. They end up wanting everything! Another main goal this year has been to lower price points to really enable retailers to outsell online competitors like Amazon.

What’s your sweet spot when it comes to price point?

Our customer can buy something that’s as low as $5 up to $29.95. That’s where we typically cap our prices because it’s still attainable for a tween’s budget. There’s nothing more rewarding than seeing kids be able to go to stores and enjoy the experience of spending their hardearned money on a quality, tangible item in that moment. That’s what it’s all about.

What opportunities do accessories bring retailers?

We’ve had so many people come up to us lately saying how much money accessories have made them in the past year. Many have even said that they’ve started bringing in more accessories than clothing. Retailers are finding that it’s much easier to sell because of the varied price points, lack of size restrictions, as well as just an easy item to pick up as a gift for a friend—or yourself! I highly recommend providing retailers with displays for product. For example, we give them a wooden display for our charms—like a Pandora for kids. These little details go a long way on the sales floor.

How important is the direct-to-consumer channel for American Jewel?

While it’s necessary to have a website and social media, at the end of the day we want to show that we’re here for our retailers. We do very little online business, as in maybe five to six orders per month. Retailers are our customers, and we don’t want to compete with them. We also have employees who consistently police any online sellers to make sure our price points don’t drop even 50 cents. If we see a drop, they are no longer allowed to sell American Jewel.

SMALL TALK Your approach runs counter to most others when it comes to selling online.

Pretty much. At least it has worked for us, so far. We have an e-commerce site and social media channels, but they aren’t anything glamorous. This is all done on purpose, as we want our partners to realize we are 100 percent on their side.

What’s the most effective way to reach new retailers?

Trade shows. We attend at least 34 trade shows per year. We’re also trying to get better at cold calling. At trade shows though, you’re physically touching the product—falling in love with it, if you will. It’s a really fulfilling connection for both the brand and the retailer.

What do you love most about your job?

Talking and connecting with others has always been something I’ve enjoyed. I’m a people person, first and foremost. In addition, I love the competition of trying to be the most original on the market. Our team loves coming out with something new and watching the stores have fun launching it. In the end, it’s about giving back to those who made this incredible opportu-

What’s your favorite hometown memory? I grew up in a small town, Saugus, CA, where I’d often go dirt biking with my friends.

What was your first paying job? I worked the local swap meet at 8 years old. Then as a teen, I got a job as a Chuck E.Cheese party host.

What are you reading? Reports on color scheme for 2019.

What superpower would you most like to have?

To be psychic.

What are the three things you’d bring to a deserted island? Unlimited supply of Chinese chicken salad, cherry sour balls and eggplant.

What sound do you love? The ocean.

If you could hire anyone, who would it be? Jennifer Ganz, the children’s accessories buyer for Lester’s.

RE T A I L P R O F I L E

Knocking it Out of the Park LISA BURIK, OWNER OF FRANKIE’S ON THE PARK, INSPIRES TWEENS WITH AGE-APPROPRIATE FASHION AND THE VALUE OF GIVING BACK. BY EMILY BECKMAN

L

ISA BURIK FIRST got the idea to open her own boutique after struggling to find trendy yet modest clothes for Frankie, her 13-year-old daughter. It’s a common industry startup tale, but Burik isn’t your run-of-the-mill retail entrepreneur. She dreams big, and she’s a woman with a plan. Having sold her healthcare management consulting firm, Burik was looking to do something completely different. She did her homework, she created a sound business plan and she was all in from the get-go. In 2008, she filled the void she saw with the opening of a 3,000-squarefoot, two-story tween boutique in the heart of Chicago’s bustling Lincoln Park neighborhood. In 2013, she followed that up with a second, 1,100-square-foot location in Santa Monica, CA. “While many boutique owners start their shop simply as a hobby,

12

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

I’ve always approached it from the perspective of a businesswoman,” Burik says. “My goal has always been to reach as many people as I can.”

The boutiques serve as an oasis for girls age 8 to 18, brimming with stylish apparel and accessories congruent with what Burik describes as a fun-loving tween’s lifestyle. From bright décor to eye-catching displays, Frankie’s on the Park is meant to be not only a fun place to shop but hang out with friends. Interactive experiences (in the Chicago location) include a second-floor graffiti bar for customizing T-shirts, hoodies and shorts, and the sales consultants are described as “part stylists/part camp counselors.” It helps raise the stores’ experiential factor to regular destination level. Shoppers are satisfied, entertained and—when needed—reassured. Anyone who’s the parent of a teenage daughter will know that the latter might serve

Children’s World as Frankie’s on the Parks’ greatest attribute.

“My job is to bring a special experience for every girl during this particular—and often challenging—time in her life,” says Burik, a mother of two girls. “If there are a handful of tween-specialized stores like ours in the country, I’d be surprised.” Burik adds that most retailers prefer not to bother with such a tricky, fickle age category. “While it can be hard to understand who the tween really is and what she wants, we enjoy the challenge,” she says.

But Burik has never been one to shrink from a challenge.

The year Frankie’s opened in Chicago, the Financial Crisis hit head-on. However, the tween-shopping haven exceeded $500,000 in revenue in its first year. Both stores have experienced steady growth, first in the face of recession and, of late, amid the retail apocalypse. Burik has also dabbled with a popup location in the Chicago area, as well as introduced a private box subscription service. “Introducing newness is critical to continued development and growth of your business,” she says. “A little risk can lead to great reward and, at the worst, a lesson learned.”

Burik is a risk-taker, however her inventory leans heavily on athleisure—a perennial staple for tween girls. Tracksuits are particularly popular of late. “Customers want soft and cozy,” she says. “For kids and parents, it’s all about the hand feel.” Popular brands at Frankie’s include me.n.u, DL 1961, Aviator Nation, Spiritual Gangster and Chaser.

For dressing up, Burik cites Zoe Ltd, David Charles, Jovani and By Debra as frontrunners in the special occasion section. Burik reports Santa Monica and Chicago tweens have similar fashion tastes in terms of brands and styles, but the palette definitely reflects the stark contrasts in local climates. “I would say our inventory is 70 to 80 percent the same,” Burik says. “But my Chicago tweens

don’t like colors as much—everything has to be black, navy or gray. And it’s very beachy and brighter colors with the California girls.”

PEOPLE PLEASER Having the right mix is step one to pleasing Frankie’s customers. Step two and three? Burik and her staff try hard to remember names and their style preferences. “We know what they like and don’t like—and we don’t have to look at a notebook to remind us,” she says.

Burik’s team also makes note of the customers’ preferred method of communication, whether it’s phone, text or email. “You want the customer to want to engage—not feel bothered or overwhelmed,” she says, adding that a strong social media profile is critical in communicating with customers.

With an impressive 16,000plus followers on Instagram— the preferred platform of tweens—Burik keeps a professional yet authentic vibe of real girls modeling Frankie’s latest styles. “We invested a lot in our online infrastructure to be able to have a cool presence that girls like,” she says. It’s also user-friendly and seamless. For example, someone in Ohio who sees a girl sporting a cool outfit on Frankie’s Instagram feed can simply click on what she’s wearing, and it will take her directly to the store’s website for purchase. “There’s few stores that aren’t major players such as Nordstrom that can do that,” Burik says.

What’s more, customers shopping Frankie’s can be assured its merchandise is the real deal.

It’s quite unlike the internet, which Burik says, is awash in shady outlets selling cheap knockoffs of well-known labels. “Anyone can go into business these days,” she says. “Just make a product out of your garage, throw a photo up on Instagram and there you have it.

While there’s nothing technically wrong with that, it erodes the market because everyone starts to expect things cheaper.”

“WHILE IT CAN BE HARD TO UNDERSTAND WHO THE TWEEN REALLY IS AND WHAT SHE WANTS, WE ENJOY THE CHALLENGE.”

Apparel | Accessories | Shoes | Gifts Décor | Maternity | Juvenile Products

Mark Your Calendars 2018 MARKET DATES June Atlanta Apparel SHOWROOMS:

June 13 –16

August Atlanta Apparel SHOWROOMS : TEMPORARIES :

August 7–11 August 7–10

Fashion Show Featuring Spring/Summer: August 8

October Atlanta Apparel SHOWROOMS : TEMPORARIES :

October 16 –20 October 17–20

Visit AmericasMart.com for the latest Market date information. Dates subject to change.

Register Today at AmericasMart.com/ChildrensWorld

Atlanta Apparel 800.ATL.MART

|

© 2018 AMC, Inc.

LINES FE AT URED: Little English, Little Unicorn, TOMS

RE T A I L P R O F I L E

Comer Children’s Hospital patient strikes a pose at charity fashion show.

TWEEN SCENE A passionate tween retailer, Lisa Burik sounds off on this, that and the other.

No. 1 rule when buying: Always buy from a budget and buy with very specific customers in mind. Also, don’t forget to tell a story.

Category with the most potential: Accessories! This ranges from gift-giving to our camp business, which is huge.

Best way to handle a picky tween customer: Take your time, and see what feels right to them.

Child celeb you’ve dressed: The Obama girls!

Favorite tween designers: Aviator Nation, me.n.u, Zoe Ltd and By Debra.

Most rewarding part of your job: Making a difference in the community.

Something you’re looking forward to: Turning 10 in August! We have exciting things in store that can’t be revealed just yet.

14

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

is awash in shady outlets selling cheap knockoffs of well-known labels. “Anyone can go into business these days,” she says. “Just make a product out of your garage, throw a photo up on Instagram and there you have it. While there’s nothing technically wrong with that, it erodes the market because everyone starts to expect things cheaper.”

In response, Burik draws a line in the sand on quality, authenticity and integrity. It’s about staying true to Frankie’s reputation and mission of being a trusted resource for tweens and their parents.

“We operate on a pretty high echelon,” she says. While Frankie’s still offers something for everyone with price points ranging from $3 to $300, offering the lowest price is not the driving factor of its business model. “Everybody can shop at Frankie’s, but for the mom that feels we are too expensive and wants to buy leggings at Target, by all means,” Burik says. “We have a standard of quality we need to keep, which means we are not going to go chasing prices to the bottom.” The same high standards apply to its vendors. If customer returns regarding quality issues reach a tipping point, Burik drops the brand from Frankie’s mix. “I need my customers to trust that I only stock the best for them,” she says. “We adore our customers, and that drives everything.”

“NOT A MONTH GOES BY THAT DOESN’T INVOLVE US GIVING BACK IN SOME WAY THROUGH OUR BUSINESS.”

GIVING BACK Frankie’s love affair with its customers extends well beyond a financial transaction. Burik and her team are committed to helping its tweens overcome personal challenges as well as on a broader scale with its extensive community outreach efforts. Take Frankie’s annual sponsorship of the University of Chicago Medicine Comer Children’s Hospital Fashion Show each spring. Marking its eighth year of sponsorship, the recent event saw four hundred attendees rise to a standing ovation in the ballroom of Chicago’s Four Seasons Hotel as a young girl in rainbow leggings and a unicorn graphic tee gingerly came down the runway assisted by a walker. She stopped to pose in the middle of the catwalk, beaming as she absorbed a moment she likely never thought possible. “That girl was told by doctors she’d be wheelchair-bound the rest of her life yet that night we were able to find a way for her to walk down the runway and feel like everybody else,” says Burik. “It was the moment of all moments.”

The event, which raises more than $125,000 each year, is just one of the many charitable partnerships Frankie’s engages in annually. The list of partnerships includes school auctions, fund drives, service projects and holiday festivals. “Frankie’s isn’t just a store—it’s a lifestyle,” >37

TREND WATCH Little Mass Dr. Scholl’s top velcro

Geox Kids Hannah pompom Banana sneaker dress

sneakers

3pommes jacket

Levi’s Kids skirt

DKNY Kids dress

Karl Lagerfeld Kids sequinadorned jeans

Hoo Shoes bootie

Bonpoint

Silver Linings

Native Shoes bungee boot

SILVER IS THE new black. The techy tone has taken the runways by storm, from Mylar-inspired galactic jackets to robotic hardware from head to toe.

This fall, a high-shine palette spanning deep space grays to iridescent embellishments, will electrify collections. —Emily Beckman

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

15

TREND WATCH Stoney Clover Lane wristlet

Army Strong

Joah Love outfit

DESIGNED TO BLEND in on the battlefield, camo prints and army-inspired silhouettes are standout civilian statements that have been cycling in and out of fashion since Vogue first picked up on the field trends in 1943. This fall, designers enlist structured army-inspired jackets to frilly tutu-adorned camo leggings. —E. B.

Superism pants Kiddo By Katie moto jacket

Miki Miette tutu leggings

Timberland Kids infinity scarf

Zadig & Voltaire Kids tunic

16

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

Parkland backpack Beckaro shirt

Absorba joggers

Boboli YporquĂŠ hoodie

Hugo Boss Kids sweatshirt

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

17

TREND WATCH The Bonnie Mob dress

Paul Smith Junior sweater

Tiny Whales shirt

Pop Sockets phone accessory Lemon Loves Lime dress

Everbloom one-piece

Malibu Sugar 3c4g wristlet

Chewbeads necklace

Dreamer beanie

Chasing Rainbows FULFILLING A SPECTRUM of styles spanning techy tweens obsessed with the cartoon emoji to nostalgic grandparents basking in ’70s flashbacks to those making a political statement, designers are over the rainbow this season —E. B.

18

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

TREND WATCH

Bow Regards

ChloĂŠ blouse

AN INSTANT UPGRADE to basic tees or a feminine flourish to sporty sneakers, the classic embellishment adds a twist to new collections with unexpected placements, abstract structures and a range of materials including leather, lace, velvet and chiffon. —E. B.

Tartine et Chocolat barrettes

Holly Hastie poppy dress

Pink Peony shirt

Kapital K ruffle dress

Lili Gaufrette jumper

Widgeon jacket Stride Rite Mary Janes

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

19

TREND WATCH

Jefferies Socks ankle socks

Madmia knee highs

Sock Hop AN EASY POP of personality to any outfit—not to mention an easy add-on near the register—statement hosiery is on a (good) run! The more colorful and wild prints, the better. Look for tacos, rainbows, llamas and polka dot motifs. —E. B.

Falke Kids

Happy Socks apple core socks Chatty Feet queen socks

Magic Forest striped socks

Socksmith taco socks

20

E A R N S H AW S . C O M

TREND WATCH Vaenait Baby pajamas

Jurassic Parka

Snurk bedding

DINOSAUR-THEMED FASHIONS are far from extinct! Be on the lookout for tees, joggers, jackets, sports caps, sneakers and accessories featuring prehistoric behemoth motifs in boys’ and girls’. The reptile rage comes amid the 25th anniversary of Jurassic Park and the release this month of Jurassic World: Fallen Kingdom. Expect kids to have dinosaurs on the brain. —E.B.

Molo shirt

Crumb Snatcher t-shirt

Paper Wings bomber jacket

Nano thermal

Chaser

Up and Away Jackets jacket

Me Too one-piece

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

21

Marcus wears Vans hoodie and Converse track pants.

22

From top to bottom: Ashleigh wears Converse white mesh jacket, Sparkle

by Stoopher top, Tractr denim pants, Heart Me Jewelry bracelets and high-top by Vans; Kennedy wears Vigoss denim vest, Candy Pink top, Hudson green pants, Heart Me Jewelry bracelets; Tyler wears Vigoss bomber jacket, Deux par Deux checked shirt, Joe’s Jeans pants, Old Soles shoes; Xzavior wears Puma hoodie and socks, Lee denim Bermuda shorts and Izzy Be hat.

Opposite page: Ashleigh wears Converse white mesh jacket, Sparkle by Stoopher top and sports cap by Izzy Be.

25

26

From left to right: Sheina wears fuzzy jacket by Limeapple, Vigoss overalls and Cape Clogs clogs; Marcus wears Appaman hat, Levi’s denim jacket, longsleeved shirt by Butter Super Soft, Converse track pants and Dirty Laundry sneakers; Ashleigh wears Katie J NYC black jumpsuit, Global Love hoodie, Vans slip-on shoes; Livi wears rainbow crewneck by Sub Urban Riot, Erge pants, For All Seasons by Paper Crane shirt (underneath), Old Soles shoes; Xzavior wears Mother Trucker & Co. hat, Nike bomber jacket, Hudson denim shirt, Joe’s Jeans pants, Florsheim derbys; Kennedy wears jacket by Butter Super Soft, Nike sleeveless tank, Splendid camo joggers, Old Soles shoes and Heart Me Jewelry bracelets.

27

From left to right: Ashleigh wears Katie J NYC black jumpsuit, Global Love sweater, American Jewel backpack, Vans shoes; Livi wears rainbow crewneck

by Sub Urban Riot, Erge pants, For All Seasons by Paper Crane shirt (underneath), Snapper Rock sunglasses, Old Soles shoes, Opposite page: Xzavior wears Mother Trucker & Co. hat, Nike bomber jacket, Hudson denim shirt, Joe’s Jeans pants; Livi wears same oufit as on this page with backpack by American Jewel; Ashleigh credited on this page.

28

30

From left to right: Kennedy wears zipped Puma track jacket, Levi’s denim jacket, fake fur sleeveless vest by Mod Girl, Splendid camo joggers; Tyler wears Deux par Deux T-shirt, flannel print jacket by Hudson and Butter Super Soft pants; Xzavior wears Mother Trucker & Co. hat, Nike bomber jacket, Hudson denim shirt, Joe’s Jeans pants.

Sheina wears Mia New York sequin hoodie, Diesel short, jacket by Mod Girl, Puma socks, Vans checkered slip ons, sunglasses by Teeny Tiny Optics. Opposite page: Marcus wears Butter Super Soft graphic tee, Lee flannel shirt, Puma pants, Native Shoes sneakers, socks by Pair of Theives.

Styling Assistant: Gina Maher.

32

33

H AU T E TOPICS

Designer Kristina Hastings with Mod Girl models

DESIGNER CHAT KRISTINA HASTINGS, MOD GIRL

AFTER 10 YEARS designing uniforms and sportswear for local cheerleading teams, Kristina Hastings quickly developed an expertise for what the average tween wears to get their sweat on.

So when she and her sister, Brittney, decided to launch Mod Girl in 2016, the L.A. duo already possessed a good understanding of that finicky transitional age. And when Hastings wasn’t sure, she just asked. “The secret is to listen,” she says. “Every quarter, I meet with a group of tween girls and ask for their opinion on fabrics, prints and styles to get a feel for what they like and would actually wear.”

Mixing bright prints and sophisticated color blocking, Mod Girl gives tweens more mature sportswear silhouettes from openback tanks to mesh leggings. The line of crop tops, leggings and outerwear comes in loose-fitting to tight silhouettes to ensure every growing figure feels confident. Using quality fabrics for secure fit and longevity, Mod Girl’s apparel is made of a semi-heavy to heavy-weight nylon spandex. “It’s very durable, washes extremely well and has a nice hand, so

34

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

it’s very comfortable to wear,” Hastings says.

For Fall ’18, Hastings expects athleisure to continue to gain momentum. For Mod Girl, colors like Millennial Pink will remain relevant while Ultra Violet (Pantone’s 2018 “Color of the Year”) works its way into the mix. The incoporation of mesh will also see an increase in both tops and leggings—a daring decision when considering some moms’ worries about modesty. However, Hastings insists the mesh styles are always designed with a tasteful balance in mind. “I place mesh panels on my leggings in unrevealing areas, such as the calf,” she says, noting that solid fabric options are available.

Since launching, Hastings has been educating retailers about the rapidly growing athleisure trend and the benefits the category can have in their store from casual layering to mini-me options. An accessible price range and U.S.-made quality are additional brand assets, according to Hastings. “I’ll never substitute quality for price,” she says. “I work closely with my manufacturers in Los Angeles to come up with a program where

everyone—manufacturer, myself, the retailer and the customer—all win.” —Aleda Johnson What’s trending strong for this fall? We see more purple in designers’ collections, as well as more comfort-driven clothing. Unicorns will still be very popular along with any animal hybrid that ends with “corn,” such as a “caticorn” and “slothicorn.”

How do you see athleisure evolving? We’re only in the beginning stage of this growing trend. I think the tween market will mirror the women’s market in regard to activewear/ athleisure, creating its very own category. Tween girls want to look and be just like their mothers. They want to feel like young adults—not little girls. It’s up to us, as an industry, to help them achieve that.

What’s the biggest challenge designing for tweens? Tweens are very quick to grow up because of the internet and social media outlets like Instagram. I design with mature style lines

Lulu Dharma

OMG Accessories

State Bags

Stoney Clover Lane

Hammitt

Belt it Out

A retro revamp no longer reserved for tourist attire.

while still keeping it mom-friendly. My No. 1 goal is to make tween girls feel empowered while giving them an opportunity to express themselves in clothing they feel comfortable and confident in.

How do you best reach your young customer? Social media plays a large role for us. It has been a great way to get the brand out into the market. We maintain a social media presence on Instagram in efforts to drive sales through our retail partners.

This has been especially successful in engaging with our followers through ambassador contests. The last contest we held brought in several thousand tween applicants wanting to promote Mod Girl worldwide.

What do you love most about your job? The genuine and excited expressions the girls show when they wear Mod Girl. To watch them walk around with confidence and pride validates all the hard work I put into building this brand.

What might people be surprised to know about you? In my teen years, I regularly performed in front of live audiences as Batgirl in the Batman and Robin stunt show at Six Flags Magic Mountain. I stage-fought villains, fell down flights of stairs, rollerbladed down two- to three-story ramps and ziplined from the tops of bleachers

tween leisurewear | undergarments

516-395-8068 | katiejnyc.com | info@katiejnyc.com

EDITOR’S PICKS

W H A T ’S S E L L I N G

Mia New York

grow into their individual style,” Vann says.

“It’s about encouraging them to be comfortable in their own skin by inspiring them with more mature looks that can’t always be found in the average children’s section.”

Popular brands on Gypsy Girl include Mia New York, Kiddo, PPLA and Vintage Havana.

Vann also does strong business in casual and special occasion dresses by Gigi Ri, Sally Miller and Miss Behave Girls. “Girls love being able to shop like stars their age,” Vann says, adding that many of the brands she stocks have been worn by Disney Channel celebrities and popular tween bloggers. “I want to help girls gain confidence during this tricky stage with clothing and accessories that provide exceptional fit, style and value.” —Aleda Johnson How’s business? Much better. It was a slow start, but we’ve picked up the pace. During the first year, I needed something to compete with online marketplaces like Amazon, so I started free shipping to most of the U.S. By the second year, I had gained many followers overseas through social media, so I began experimenting with international shipping.

So far it’s been quite successful.

Gypsy Girl Boutique www.shopgypsygirl.com

D

ISCOVERING HOW DIFFICULT it was to find age-appropriate styles for her tween daughters, Cheryl Vann became inspired to curate her own selection of trend-right looks for adolescent girls.

Determined to offer stylish yet sophisticated silhouettes in sizes 8 to 16, the ambitious momtreprenuer finally made the leap when Gypsy Girl Boutique went live at the beginning of 2016.

“Our mission is to help as many girls as we can gain confidence from an early age,” Vann says, noting that she chose an e-commerce model over brick-and-mortar to appeal to today’s busy moms and reach a broader demographic than just those near her Birmingham, AL, home.

“Our selection allows girls to experiment and

36

E A R N S H AW S . C O M

Exactly how do you compete with Amazon?

It’s so important to have a good return policy because it’s so easy to return to Amazon. You have to be comparable. For us, the return policy is easy to find in a drop-down menu of every product page. (However, I just shortened my policy to 15 days because if it’s too long, customers take their time sending returns back.) Another advantage for us is Amazon and other major online retailers don’t necessarily sell all of the new and leading designers for the tween age group—but we do. Gypsy Girl is concentrated on offering quality products at a fair price point that the tween girl—and her mom—will love.

What’s the biggest challenge to selling tween fashion? Tweens want to look older, but they’re in a middle stage where clothes still need to be more conservative. A Gypsy Girl tween is looking for the latest and the hottest trends of the season that are toned down to be age appropriate, proving to her

that she doesn’t necessarily need to wear a crop top to look cool and on trend.

How do you plan your buys? I draw a lot of inspiration from what’s popular in women’s fashion, which usually trickles down into tween. Not everything comes down the line, but several brands also have adult collections which their tween offerings mirror.

How much is your average order? A typical order is a little more than $100. The sweet spot for pricing is between $25 and $45 for tops and casual dresses, plus I sell a lot of special occasion dresses which go for $60 to $70.

What’s trending this spring? Denim skirts are really in right now, as are stripes and metallics across everything. Oh, and anything with unicorns. Gigi Ri dresses are very popular, which is a New York-based high-end tween dress line. For tops, Mia New York is doing well, especially its stripes and bright colors.

I’ve also had PPLA since the business launched, which continues to be a crowd-pleaser.

Any new brands performing well? I did really well introducing Mother Trucker & Co. The company’s hats feature bold colors and humorous sayings that customers adore.

I’m looking to expand into more accessories as this category has been very beneficial for us.

How do you spread the word about your site? I use several influencers and local tween-age ambassadors. Last month I had a Disney star I sent a dress to post a picture wearing it. Girls went crazy! Pick influencers that go along with your mission, and girls will tell their parents which will have them clicking through your virtual racks in no time! I also sell through Facebook and Instagram. In fact, about 25 to 30 percent of my sales come from social media, particularly Instagram.

Do you ever partake in pop-up shops or other physical events? We have had some pop-up shops in different places, mainly in homes. We’re doing lot of Christmas shows and junior league shows this year.

continued from page 14

Burik says. “We’re always open to supporting great causes, particularly those that are sponsored by our customers and directly involve kids and teens in a meaningful way.”

Think of it as community service with a fashionable Frankie’s twist. For instance, every December the store partners with La Rabida Children’s Hospital for its annual Holiday Dress Party. Burik and her staff bring a selection of age-appropriate party dresses backed by a team of volunteer “fashion stylists” from local high schools to help patients pick out a dress and get their nails done for the holidays.

“The girls love helping us put a smile on each patient’s face,”

Frankie’s vibrant selection of tween apparel and accessories.

she says. “It’s just another one of the many heartwarming experiences we get to enjoy from bringing the community together.”

In an effort to extend its community outreach further, Frankie’s on the Park has recently introduced “Frankie’s Gives Back.” Applicable both online and in store, customers can select a charity they’d like to support with part of the proceeds from their purchase at Frankie’s. “Not a month goes by that doesn’t involve us giving back in some way through our business,” Burik says. “It’s all part of our experience,

BEHIND THE SEAMS

Sweet Success Candy Pink whips up delectably soft loungewear with a dash of tween-approved ’tude.

KNOWN FOR ITS mouth-watering color palette and prints so saccharine they could trigger sweet tooth cravings, Candy Pink loungewear is more than just eye candy.

Design and sales executive Melissa Zemanek claims its “marshmallow-soft” fleece blend is craved by its rapidly growing customer base. Since the Australian-based company’s launch in the spring of 2014, distribution has mushroomed to hundreds of specialty boutiques across the United States, as well as online at Nordstrom and, beginning this fall, in select locations of the department store chain.

“Working with our factory tirelessly to get the right hand feel really paid off,” says Zemanek, noting retailers say the pajamas “sell themselves” with their fluffy, fun-loving appeal. “When we do our photo shoots, the kids never want to take our samples off,” she adds.

Sizes range from size 2/3 to 14/16, and Zemanek says Candy Pink is constantly working on introducing new eye-catching prints. “We have a key formula of colors that we know works well for our customers,” she says, citing pink, mint and aqua as mainstays.

38

E A R N S H AW S . C O M

“The challenge is coming up with creative prints.” A bestseller of late is its hotdog print.

“It couldn’t just be a hot dog—it’s a dog that’s dressed up as a hot dog,” she says. Zemanek cites unicorns and narwhals as additional popular motifs for tween girls, while sport themes continue to be bestsellers in boys.

Perennial silhouettes include fleece pants, shorts, robes and hoodies, although Zemanek reports a recent surge in one-piece pajamas.

“The Onesie is still big for kids up to tweens,” she says, noting how tweens love the playful photogenic quality of the hooded one-pieces in fun prints. “Most importantly, we make sure the pockets are big enough to hold a phone,” she adds. “Kids these days always want their cell phone on them. Smart designers keep that in mind.”

Although Candy Pink’s rapid growth to date has largely been organic, this year the company has taken more initiative with social media marketing. “We’re investing a lot of time and energy into growing that side of the market because that’s where everybody goes these days,” Zemanek says. “Even buyers who want to check out our brand will often take a peek at our Instagram page. It’s an easy

way to see how we market our brand—how we tell our story.”

While Candy Pink has an e-commerce site, Zemanek says it’s used mostly for building brand awareness. Wholesale remains the focus for growth. “The majority of our sales come from wholesale,” she says, noting that one of her best decisions of late was investing in the software NuOrder. “It allows our wholesale customers to go online after hours and place an order with full access to our inventory.”

Succeeding in business today, Zemanek says, boils down to delivering frictionless convenience. “The more you can streamline the buying process, as well as make your business a destination and an experience, the better the chance you have at survival,” she says. Going forward, Candy Pink plans to expand into new categories by Holiday, with accessories being a major theme. Last year, it dabbled in the category with neoprene bags for camp and sleepovers. After positive feedback, Zemanek is ready to introduce more accessories. It won’t stop there, either. “In five years, we’d love to see ourselves as a leader in the tween category,” Zemanek says. “We’ll do everything we can to make it possible.” —Emily Beckman

Maturity Matters Delicate Seams offers tween girls transitional undergarments.

WHEN AIDA YODITES’ tween daughter told her she was tired of the brightly colored underwear covered with emojis of her childhood, Yodites went looking for something more mature.

“I thought, ‘No problem,’” she recalls, but she quickly became disenchanted. “The choices for her age group were minimal and done poorly,” she adds. So after researching online and taking the pulse of fellow parents, Yodites sat down and designed her own line, Delicate Seams.

Launched in November 2017, the collection of seven styles offers tween girls modest undergarments that bridge the gap between girl and teen with subtle lace details and a nude color palette. “The line is meant to be an introduction to becoming a young lady,” Yodites says. “It’s meant to build confidence in young girls until they transition to more mature undergarments.”

The four top silhouettes include a camisole, bralette, sportlette and “The First Bra,” which aims for comfort with no underwire, no push-up and minimal padding. Bottoms offer a vairety of coverage from a lower-waist bikini cut to the high-waisted girlshort. Every aspect of the line, from the tonal color palette to the flexible sizing (9/10 to 14/16) to the forgiving poly/spandex blend fabric was designed to be inclusive. “The fabric allows for various body types, whether that’s tall, full-bodied or athletic,” Yodites says, adding the three-tone nude color options are just as body-positive. “I was inspired by my goddaughters and nieces who have red hair or are African-American,” she adds.

Launched online direct-to-consumer, Yodites has since expanded to independent boutiques. Wholesaling from $4.50 to $13.50, the under $30 retail price point is meant to be affordable to Delicate Seams’ tween demographic. So far the company has received positive feedback from boutqiues, with buyers requesting more POP materials in support of the line. “Customers are loving it,” Yodites says. “Even after only a few weeks of selling the collection, retailers reported great interest amongst customers.”

Looking ahead, Delicate Seams has a sleepwear line in the works with a projected Fall ’18 release and a swimwear collection in the pipeline as well. The sleepwear line follows the intimate collection’s mission of inclusivity and transition. “The line is inspired by my childhood but gives old-school designs like baby dolls and long nightgowns a modern twist,” Yodites says. “We look forward to expanding our presence in the market in coming seasons.” —Aleda Johnson

T 410.280.2364

E sales@snapperrock.com

WWW.SNAPPERROCK.COM

Mark Your Calendar!

Earnie Awards

2018

Nominations start on June 20th www.earnieawards.com

FINAL CUT

Meet the new viral trend: Cable Bites. These cute covers protect charger cords from breaking by “biting” the phone when plugged in.

Moms will love how the kids won’t fight over whose charger is whose. Already big in Japan, Dreams first launched the series to select retailers in the U.S., and customers are eating them up.

For just $5.50 MSRP, Cable Bites come in 36 different styles from cats and crocodiles to hedgehogs and hippos. – Emily Beckman

40

E A R N S H AW S .C O M J U N E 2 0 1 8

P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I S S

Grab a Bite

#17

August 5-7 Metropolitan Pavilion & Altman Building

200 collections Fashion & Lifestyle

FOR PROFESSIONALS ONLY

illustration Xaviera Altena

The top trade show for American & international children’s brands

CHILDREN’S & MATERNITY TRADE SHOWS WORLDWIDE!

ONLINE � PARIS � BERLIN � NEW YORK � TOKYO www.iloveplaytime.com

Activewear for EVERY girl!

CHECK OUT OUR NEW COLLECTION

COME VISIT US! Dallas Market Center: June 6-9 AmericasMart Atlanta: June 13-16 Children’s Club: August 5-7 NY NOW: August 12-15 MAGIC Las Vegas: August 13-15

Sales@americanjewel.com 844-jeweled (539-3533) contact@activemod.com

www.americanjewel.com