Earnshaw's | April/May 2018

VOLUME 102 NUMBER 4

APRIL/MAY 201 8 $10.00

Featuring Luxe™ Dot Baby Blanket and Little L™ Plush Toy in pink

RUN THE SCHOOL This school year doesn't stand a chance.

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A PRI L / M AY 2018 CONTENTS

Noelle Heffernan Publisher Emily Beckman Editor Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor ADVERTISING Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager PRODUCTION

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Laurie Guptill Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster Bruce Sprague Circulation Director CORPORATE Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller Caroline Diaco President Group Publisher

FEATURES

DEPARTMENTS

8 “Theyby” Steps Advice for selling to the new generation of gender-explorative children. By Aleda Johnson

4 Editor’s Note

12 Rag Dolls to Riches Toby Powell, owner of Powell Craft Ltd., shares how the English company became a one-stop resource for baby and home. By Emily Beckman

6 Scene & Heard

16 Picture This In the age of “Instababies,” the perfect photo gone viral can boost your bottom line.

By Emily Beckman

FASHION 24 Double Take Modern or traditional, designers deliver choice in fall fashion for babies. By Mariah Walker

10 In The Bag 20 Trend Watch 34 Behind the Seams 36 Haute Topics 38 What’s Selling 40 Final Cut

This page: Valentina wears Feltman Brothers bonnet, Emile et Ida bloomers and top, Sweet N Swag crib shoes.

On cover: Valentina wears Feather 4 Arrow cap and one-piece, jacket by Puma, Finn + Emma pants, Zoo socks and watermelon teether by Oli & Carol.

Photography by Paul Thorburn/Zara Ronchi; styling by Mariah Walker/Art Department NY; styling assistant: Enid Hunt; grooming by Thora/Kate Ryan Inc. using The Honest Company baby wipes; set/props: Sets by Sara at Bryan Bantry; shoot location: Studio by Sara; photo assistant: James Ellington; special thanks to Ross at K&M Camera.

Greg Dutter Editorial Director 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 214 W. 39th St., Suite 205 New York, NY 10018 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 advertising@9threads.com editorialrequests@ 9threads.com Circulation Office 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9threads.com

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 135 West 20th Street, Suite 402 New York, NY 10011.

The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage.

No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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EDITOR’S NOTE

W

Getting Personal

HAT’S THE NO.1 consumer trend this year?

Personalization, so says a survey by Business of Fashion and McKinsey Global Fashion. In fact, 70 percent of U.S. consumers expect some degree of personalization from online businesses, according to a recent Linkdex survey. What’s more, shoppers are increasingly willing to hand over personal data in exchange for a more tailored shopping experience that often includes customized merchandise. Alexa, Siri, Google Home, subscription services, direct-to-consumer platforms, etc. are watching, listening and gathering unique data—and consumers are totally cool with that so long as it’s in the name of convenience and customization.

When it comes to parents shopping for their kids, personalization is becoming all the rage.

In our feature “Picture This” (p. 16), industry experts reveal what’s driving the monogrammed mania in swaddles and bibs, as well as the rise in gender-neutral hues, graphics with witty pop culture references and non-traditional products like baby teethers made to look like fresh kale. Want a hint? It’s social media, particularly Instagram. In an effort to make kids stand out in pictures posted on the platform, many parents are seeking outfits and accessories that express a unique style and enviable family values. Many of these feeds have turned into highly curated catalogs, followed by family, friends and, in some instances, a growing legion of fans.

Hence, the need for parents-turned-influencers to impress. An off-the-rack, chain store outfit just doesn’t cut it. Or, as Marie Tillman, founder and CEO of the subscription box service Mac & Mia, says: “Quality and price point are a given, but it’s more about the uniqueness of the product these days. It’s about posting that picture with something really different and having people say, ‘Wow, where’d you get that?’”

Toby Powell, owner of Powell Craft Ltd. and the subject of this month’s Q&A (p. 12), believes personalization is the future of our industry. “It’s all about more bespoke orders,” the British-born exec says, noting that embroidery requests on its best-selling rag dolls are on the rise. Powell adds that customization doesn’t stop at its products—today’s consumers want personalized service, from

packaging to delivery to communication before and after the purchase. He is committed to meeting his customers’ ever-changing needs and desires. In fact, Powell’s tireless efforts to expand the family-owned company’s product portfolio since taking the helm in 2004 is an inspiring success story. The company has become a one-stop resource for baby and home, spanning nightgowns, childrenswear, moccasins, nursery accessories, house décor items and gifts. Standing pat is just not a part of Powell’s DNA. The personalization movement also has roots in the current rebellion against gender stereotypes. Those are being torn down, perhaps nowhere more visibly than in the genderless at birth (a.k.a. “theybies”) movement and the corresponding gender-neutral fashion, juvenile products and toy trend. Our Special Report, “Theyby Steps” (p. 8), shows how our industry is adapting to meet these burgeoning trends. While not in the mainstream yet, they are big enough for some wholesalers to address with gender-neutral collections and for retailers to add designated areas for such merchandise. The sentiment is that it’s better to be ahead of the curve than to play catch-up.

While some may deem it a fringe movement and an affront to traditional family values, it opens a world of opportunity for designers to think outside the box. Why be confined to pink or blue? There’s a whole spectrum of possibilities—and potential for increased sales across nearly every children’s category. What’s more, online retailing allows for endless stockrooms. Merchandise that would never have seen a sales floor is a no-risk, drop-ship order away for retailers—a sale that would never have happened otherwise.

While customization has its logistical hurdles and technical challenges, the trend doesn’t look likely to subside any time soon.

Consumers have the power to communicate their wants and needs like never before—and those desires are increasingly being met.

The monogrammed bib is out of the bag—and there’s no going back.

Fortunately, wholesalers and retailers have an unprecedented ability to gather analytics—often with the blessing of customers—to customize merchandise. It’s a matter of giving consumers what they want, because our industry can.

E M I LY B E C K M A N Editor

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Babywear Birth to 12 Months

Gerber Childrenswear, NY Showroom • 1370 Broadway, 8th Floor, New York, NY 10015

SC E N E & H E A R D

PBS and Zappos Launch Adaptive Apparel Line IN HONOR OF Autism Awareness Month, PBS Kids and Zappos Adaptive partnered for a line of gender-neutral, two-way reversible adaptive apparel for children with disabilities.

The collection includes T-shirts and lounge pants that promote independence for those with sensory struggles. Each piece includes dissolvable tags, no buttons and is made with

soft, machine-washable, poly-cotton-blend fabric, which can be worn backward or forward.

Using the bright colors of PBS Kids-branded graphics, the collection features four design themes inspired by dinosaurs, rainforests, oceans and air travel.

“Customers reached out saying that they loved the 4Ward sensory friendly product but wanted to have characters on the clothing so their kids would feel more inclusive,” says Derek Flores, senior buyer for Zappos. “We reached out to PBS Kids because they are focused on accessibility and making sure that every child in the country has the tools and support they need to be successful.”

“PBS Kids is committed to diversity and inclusion, helping children of all abilities learn and grow, and this collaboration with Zappos Adaptive is one more way we’re honoring that commitment,” says Dawn Ciccone, vice president of brand licensing.

Flores says to keep an eye out for more designs in partnership with PBS Kids in the future. “We would love to see new characters for our next collection as well as exploring items outside of sensory friendly clothes,” he says.

The adaptive apparel collection is available in sizes 18 months to 6X and retails from $26 to $32 on Zappos.com. All net proceeds from the collaboration will support PBS Kids’ mission to empower children in school and in life.

GoldieBlox Appoints President GOLDIEBLOX HAS named board member Shawn Dennis president of the company.

She brings 30 years of experience in building global girls’ entertainment franchises having Shawn Dennis previously served as CMO of the American Girl Co., as well as head of brand and franchise development at DreamWorks Animation. Dennis will work with CEO and Founder Debbie Sterling as GoldieBlox continues its expansion from a toy company into a global franchise that spans entertainment, digital media and consumer products. She will oversee expanded revenue, product, entertainment, licensing and strategic partnerships for the company.

“Girls, parents and communities are searching for brands like GoldieBlox that can authentically inspire girls’ natural

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interest in science and technology, building confidence and delivering fun,” Dennis says. “GoldieBlox is not just a toy company or even a girls’ intellectual property; it is a movement whose time has come. I’m thrilled to be joining the team and building upon the tremendous equity of the brand to help it scale to its fullest potential and benefit millions of girls around the world.”

GoldieBlox recently launched its first chapter book series with Random House Children’s Books. The company has also focused on original programming for its YouTube channel with the launch of its live action series Hack Along with Goldie Blox in 2017. The channel currently has more than 150,000 subscribers and views of more than 20 million. In May, GoldieBlox will release its first YouTube reality show, Robot Runway, where kids will compete with their own DIY robots made from their favorite toys. Additional series in development will be released later this year.

NPD Group I n t r o d u c e s U. S . K i d s L i c e n s e Tr a c k e r FOLLOWING CONSUMER PURCHASE behavior just got easier with the launch of NPD Group’s U.S. Kids License Tracker. The tracker offers a comprehensive view of licensed purchases in the U.S. spanning 17 industries, for kids ages 14 and under. Monthly data will be compiled and released on a quarterly basis and includes breakdowns on pur-

chase methods and occasions, pricing, items both purchased and requested, and demographic profiles of both the buyers and children.

“The U.S. Kids License Tracker service will help clients refine their license positioning by understanding how it differs from competition, and equip them with the data and industry expertise to leverage those differences,” says Joanne Hageman, president of NPD’s entertainment sector. “It will also enable clients to become more strategic in their marketing and product development efforts by understanding both buyer and recipient behavior.”

Fourth quarter data is available now, with reports on the following industries: apps and in-app purchases; arts and crafts; baby gear; books; clothing; consumer electronics/accessories; DVD/Blu-ray and digital (movies, television shows); fashion accessories; footwear; heath/beauty products; home products (excluding furniture); party supplies/costumes; school supplies; sporting goods; toys/puzzles; and video game hardware, software and accessories.

S PECI A L R E P OR T

Art & Eden

“Theyby” Steps ADVICE FOR SELLING TO THE NEW GENERATION OF GENDEREXPLORATIVE CHILDREN. BY ALEDA JOHNSON

HEN CANADIAN SEARYL ATLI DOTY was born in 2016, the baby made history as the first person issued a healthcare ID with the sex designation marked “U” for “unknown.” The baby’s parent, Kori Doty, a non-binary transgender person, had chosen to raise the child without assigning a gender. This type of parenting, referred to as “gender open” or “gender creative,” avoids divulging the sex of the baby starting in pregnancy—even to close relatives—to prevent a premature label. From birth, gendercreative parents raise their children using the pronouns they/them, hence “theybies.”

It’s no longer as simple as a pink for girls and blue for boys. While certainly not a mainstream choice, the number of parents refusing to assign gender at birth is rising as the LGBTQ community and discussions about the gender spectrum gain more acceptance. The #MeToo movement likely plays a factor here as the protests against sexual discrimination and harassment of women has extended into ending female restrictive practices and stereotypes in the workplace and beyond.

The conversation is loud enough that the children’s industry is already noticing a shift in parents’ spending habits, offering a challenge—and potential opportunities—to retailers and brands who, until now, have divided their collections into “boys” and “girls.”

“I find a lot of designers at the trade shows are starting to take off into gray and black colorways,” says Geri Damone, co-owner of Cheeky Chic Baby & Kids Boutique in Scottsdale, AZ. She believes the swing toward more gender-neutral styles is legit and is now carrying genderless looks to meet her customers’ demands. “It’s really taken off in Europe, but I’ve already seen plenty of traction here in the U.S.,” Damone says.

Of course, gender-neutral products are not entirely new in the children’s industry. They’ve always been gift items for expecting parents who don’t want to know the sex of their baby until the birth. And plenty of parents have chosen not to raise their children in a monochromaticdefining pink or blue world. There are clothing options that span the

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color spectrum. For example, Sandy Sidoti, owner of Bringing Up Baby in Boston, has stocked neutral products in her layette section for years.

“We started stocking neutrals before it became trendy,” she says, noting that the uptick in genderless options started a few years back with an “anti-pink” movement that prioritized geometrics and bright patterns over florals for baby girls. “Now gray is the new black as it’s suitable for both girls and boys,” Sidoti adds.

Although green and yellow are considered to be traditional genderneutral colors, Millennial moms have thrown a wrench into that assumption . They are seeking a more modern palette. In response, Amanda Hsiao, design director at Baby Gap, says the chain has been working on a gender-neutral capsule collection to launch soon. “We chose black and white for the collection because it’s hard to incorporate color and say something is genderless,” she says. “We’ve come up with designs that have a cool edge including dinosaur shapes and exclamation points.”

Finding gender-neutral options over the 0-3 months’ category is still challenging. Designers admit how surprisingly easy it is to slip into gender stereotypes. Mindy Medvin, vice president of sales for Magnetic Me, says some graphics just can’t be used because they’re innately gendered. “We won’t do a gender-neutral ballet slipper or a gender-neutral football or sports team,” she says. However, as of last year, Medvin says the company no longer merchandises its clothes online according to gender.

Following in the footsteps of retailers like Target, which removed gender signage and shelving decoration in its stores in 2015, Magnetic Me customers can now shop by use of clothing (e.g. essentials, playwear or cold-weather wear) or by body style (e.g. footies, one-pieces or outerwear). “People didn’t like that the clothes were characterized by gender,” says Lauren Levy, co-founder. “They were upset they had to go to the boys’ section to find clothes with dinosaurs on them.”

BooginHead, known for its pacifiers and bibs, takes its gender neutrality efforts a step further by including it in its marketing strategy. Aiming for diversity in the photographs on its website, BooginHead isn’t just

concerned about race and gender but also who is using what products.

“We are making a conscious effort to reflect in our photos that products can be used by boys or girls,” says Jacky Bosworth, marketing manager.

She adds that seeing helps believing, but sales statistics are the best way to convince retailers that a gender neutral approach can move the needle in their stores. “You have to show them that the sales and the audience is there, and there’s a proven track record for these patterns that speaks volumes,” Bosworth says.

Carrying gender-neutral products also adds a layer of practicality moms covet, according to Susan Correa, founder and CEO of Art & Eden.

The company listened to what its online customers wanted and will be launching a gender-neutral line in May. “This trend is highly practical and has captured a zeitgeist moment where smart parents see value in investing in pieces that can be easily passed around through siblings of both genders, especially since kids grow so fast and can wear things for only a really short period of time,” she says. Correa also believes childrenswear is an easy place for designers to experiment with unisex styles because baby bodies don’t greatly differ between sexes. “Parents are now of the belief that a shared experience through toys or clothing can help children better empathize with each other,” she adds. “It is both a conscious and practical direction.”

While most retailers still merchandise their offerings into girl and boy sections, a growing number are adding a gender neutral area. It’s a good marketing tool, according to Hsiao. “While I can see us putting all clothing together in the future, for now the neutral section meets in between the boys’ and girls’ sections,” she says. “As a business, we want

Corporate Office 1385 Broadway, Suite 1800 New York, NY 10018 833-463-1909 customerservice@kissykissy.com Mid-Atlantic Judy Cohen 856-728-0841 NHC304@comcast.net

to feature the gender-neutral section for the customers to see.” Damone has also jumped on the bandwagon by adding a separate gender-neutral section in Cheeky Chic. “Our goal is to have the best and trendiest clothing in the industry for all children,” she says, adding that the separate section will avoid confusion about whether a clothing item is “boyish” or “girly” enough.

Although the rise of theybies and interest in gender-neutral fashions is just gaining traction in the childrenswear industry, the movement is still in the infancy stage. There’s also no guarantee it will continue to grow. “Parents will cross to boyish prints for their girls much faster than girly prints for their boy,” Medvin says. “It shows that things are changing, but not equally and not all at once.” Sidoti agrees, seeing an increase in parents buying brightly colored clothing, trucks and doctor toys for little girls, but no shift in parents buying tiaras and dolls for their sons (although she does stock them).

Correa, however, believes the gender neutral movement will have staying power as new generations of parents allow their children to express individuality without predetermined constraints. “It represents a generation that has assimilated the freedom of choice and expression, one that is free of traditional categorization of gender norms in fashion,” she says. For Sidoti, the gender neutral trend is as simple as loving children enough to let them be who they want, play with what they want and wear what they want. “We’ve learned a lot of lessons about kids who are transgender and the problems our society deals with around gender,” she says. “We have to make room in society for everyone and

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IN THE BAG

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Think Pink

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This tickled-pink mama never thought twice when it came to what color to buy for her newborn: Millennial pink.

Dubbed the new neutral, this delicate hue doesn’t look to be fading anytime soon. Blushing bestsellers include swaddles, dresses, knits, accessories and diaper bags with rose gold hardware—all in textures from matte to metallic.

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—Emily Beckman

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1. Baby Starters heart top, metallic leggings and matching headband 2. Loulou Lollipop teether 3. Gita Accessories knit cardigan and matching hat 4. Little Giraffe striped socks 5.

MaeLi Rose headband 6.

Teeny Tiny Optics sunglasses 7. Manière ribbed swaddle (in pocket) 8.

Kidding Around tutu onepiece 9. Ju-Ju-Be Rose Gold Collection diaper bag.

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS

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Q&A Rag Dolls to Riches Toby Powell, owner of Powell Craft Ltd., shares how the English company continues to expand and evolve, becoming a one-stop resource for baby and home along the way.

BY E M I LY B E C K M A N Putting his phone on speaker, Toby Powell rips open a package that had just been delivered to his company’s Cornwall, Great Britain, headquarters. “Whoa, look at these!” he says, admiring the new shipment of children’s moccasin designs. “They’re brilliant!” He then pauses and laughs. “I’m 45, and this is what excites me,” he says. “My God, I should’ve done something else with my life!”

Kidding aside (a rarity for Powell), he knows his passion lies in none other than running the family business, makers of childrenswear, nursery accessories and its renowned rag dolls among numerous houseware items and gifts. “Retail is in my blood,” he says, citing his three sisters who are all wholesalers and married to either wholesalers or retailers.

“My mother once said, ‘For God’s sake, can we not have a lawyer or a doctor amongst the lot of you?” Even Powell’s wife works in wholesale for a licensing company, as well as part-time at Powell Craft.

A successful family-run business since 1962, Powell Craft Ltd. started when Powell’s parents, William and Veronica, moved from London to Cornwall, a “pretty but very rural” region of Southwest England. Knowing the area was a place where people come for holiday, the Powells opened gift shops. William Powell also introduced a side business selling wooden toys. “There’s pictures of five-year-old me in one of our first catalogs playing with a pull-along duck, a little wooden castle and so on,” Powell says. The modeling days were short-lived

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however, as Powell mostly recalls his parents putting him to work at the warehouse. “That was my first paying job—clearing out bins and rubbish, cleaning the loos, sweeping seagulls off the top of the roof,” he says. “As my mother phrased it, ‘Jobs you couldn’t possibly ask members of the staff to do.’”

Perhaps it’s little surprise that Powell didn’t join the family business straight out of college. He started his career selling vintage clothing in London for a couple of years, but returned to the family business when his father passed away. Then 23, he helped his mother manage the business, which first meant nixing the stores to focus on wholesale operations. Powell Craft had recently expanded its collection to include more homewares, including a popular lace and linens line. “We’ve always done well with traditional items—the ones that tea shops and

people with stately homes enjoy,” Powell says. The upscale demographic still accounts for a large portion of the company’s customer base. “We continue to supply lace parasols, fans, beaded jug covers and tea sets to the stateliest homes throughout Britain,” he adds.

In 2004, with Powell Craft sales on the upswing, Powell decided to buy the company. He soon expanded the homewares offering to include everything from bedding to porcelain statement pieces, and the children’s apparel collection blossomed from its signature Victorian nightwear into daywear, rainwear, nursery accessories and its now popular rag dolls. “Nothing ventured, nothing gained,” Powell says in regard to the expansion blitz. Sales have grown rapidly along the way, and Powell Craft is now distributed through approximately 1,800 retailers worldwide. He estimates the company exhibits at about 20 trade shows per year, with a third of the children’s sold through specialty boutiques and an even larger portion sent to gift shops with a children’s section. “A gift buyer is normally our best type of account—someone independent who has two shops, maybe three,” Powell says.

As for the company’s recipe for success in the U.S., Powell uses a simple rule of thumb: “If you take our top 100 selling items in England, America will be the same. When I go to the U.S. and lay out a stand, I’m always confident what people are going to buy.” Of late, Powell notes that its new linen collection has performed exceptionally well, with 70 of his top 100 accounts reordering. The new children’s moccasins and leggings have also been a big hit this year. Initially only available in sizes newborn to 24 months, retailers asked Powell to increase the sizing to 2-4 years. “After hearing the same request two dozen times, you’re crazy if you’re not trying to add it to the line,” he says.

In fact, Powell attributes much of the company’s success to acting on customer feedback.

Another key contributor to Powell Craft’s success involves playing by the rules. Specifically, its children’s nightwear sales in the U.S. have spiked since it found a way to meet CPSC regulations. Powell Craft uses an organic treatment process to maintain its soft cotton, free-flowing quality. “Victorian-themed nightwear has been at our core for 30 years, so it was a shame to not be able to bring that to America,” he says. “Not many U.S. buyers know about our new and approved sleepwear, but those who do have bought straight through the range—double and triple quantities!”

Another hot trend, according to Powell, is personalization. Embroidery requests on Powell Craft’s best-selling rag doll collection are on the rise. He reports 10 percent of rag doll sales now include embroidered names or initials. In fact, Powell advises companies to personalize as much as possible—from packaging and delivery to communication before and after the purchase. “The trend of personalization doesn’t stop at the product,” Powell says. “To keep the attention of customers today, the best thing you can do is mollycoddle them.”

How’s business?

Very upbeat. There’s been a few teething problems like technical difficulties at shows due to the atrocious weather we’ve been having. I know people always blame the weather, but it’s quite valid this year.

Yet we’ve still been up and had the best strike rates we’ve had for a long time. We attended shows in January, February and March across six different countries, and all of them have been up. Our new ranges

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Q&A have gone really well, and September will mark my next wave of new ranges. I’m looking forward to it.

Do you think the current retail climate is as volatile as some news outlets report it to be?

Yes, you can’t miss a trick. It’s like in the days when people used to shut on a Wednesday, or they didn’t know if they should get a fax machine. It’s just another one of those situations where everything is evolving. Just keep all doors open, work a little bit harder and be more open-minded.

For example?

Customer service has always been essential, and that applies today even when communications are remote. The days of receiving an order, popping it in a box, sending it to someone and then wandering away are long gone. An online exchange should have the same feeling as walking a customer to the door and thanking them for their business. At the same time, service must be fast and furious. We aim for a five-day turnaround time on orders from England to the States. That means a completely full order, as well as a few freebies to help boost the vibe at the shop and our relationship with that retailer. We typically follow up with pictures and other forms of promotion for their

website, as well as a separate follow-up to ask how things are selling, what designs are doing best and if there’s anything else we can provide.

The difference between a retailer and a consumer is the retailer may not care if it’s wrapped in tissue paper, but they do want an organized, complete delivery to sell as soon as possible.

In what ways do Millennial moms shop differently than previous generations?

Out of everyone who uses the internet, the Millennial mom is the biggest, most professional and most interactive user. It’s competitive to get her attention as she’s often following several companies similar to ours. You look on a mom’s phone who wants to buy a nappy or changing bag for the pram, they’ll have 63 different styles on there before they’ve even committed to making a purchase. Whether she buys from you or not, you want to be on her radar. She may come back again, but know that she’ll always be spoiled with choice. That means it’s up to the retailer to make sure they are emailing her, promoting product and staying in touch.

What’s the biggest challenge facing our industry right now?

The internet not being policed. There will always be someone undercutting the next person, which can be incredibly damaging. Say something

SMALL TALK

is $10 and someone then puts it up for $9.50. Another person will mark it as $9, and then you’ll get some lunatic who’ll put $2 even though it’s $5 wholesale. And they’ve done that because they have no intention of paying their bill, or they’ve gone bankrupt or they’re just stark raving mad! Today’s customer can look at 10 sites at the same time, selling the same nightdress. Two of them are in debt collection, one you haven’t supplied for in three years, a few you don’t even know who they are, two of them are fantastic partners and the last one is your sister. That would not happen on High Street because those retailers would have to face the music. The internet enables the ability to hide.

What are you reading? Masters of the Post; The Authorized History of the Royal Mail by Duncan Campbell-Smith.

Sounds tough. What about the advantages of having online accounts?

Some of our best accounts are online-only. The internet is certainly another vehicle to retain and find new business. While you may lose a local customer, you also may suddenly gain a man in Croatia who can’t help but buy nurse rag dolls or something daft that you couldn’t make up. That’s the strange beauty of the internet. We launched an e-commerce site in 2006, which is a very small portion of sales, however we receive business from around the world that way. It’s all part of getting out there and driving sales from all angles. >39

What sound do you love? The Rolling Stones in 1969 at Madison Square Garden.

What’s inspiring you right now? The prospect of some sunshine.

What’s your motto? What comes around goes around.

What talent would you most like to have? To be a pilot and fly vintage aircrafts.

What’s your favorite childhood memory? Living on the coast and watching the beautiful Victorian ships docked in the harbor while the English Air Force flew overhead.

Baby Jives Co angel swaddle

Picture This In the age of “Instababies,” the perfect photo gone viral can boost your bottom line.

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OMS IN THE U.S. post 2.5 times more status updates, 3.5 times more photos and 4.2 times more videos than the average person, according to a study by Facebook.

What’s more, 80 percent of children will have an online presence by age 2, with approximately 1,500 images posted of them by their unapologetically proud parents prior to their fifth birthday.

Social feeds are jammed with pictures featuring sonograms, gender reveals, milestones, holiday snaps, vacation moments and so on. If it’s worth a pic, then you can bet it’s just a click or two away from going live before families, friends and followers.

What does all this mean to the child-

renswear industry? Free viral marketing, for starters. What moms see, (many) moms buy. Imagine an adorable tyke wearing an appliquéd bomber while getting her first haircut in an airplane barber shop seat—now that’s “Instagramworthy!” Such a post presents a golden opportunity for brands and retailers to piggyback on for more exposure and a subsequent boost in sales.

“Social savvy moms post their Instababies from the second they are born and before you know it, the child has their own Instagram account showing off their latest Onesie and mini Jordans,” says Erin Rechner, senior kidswear editor for WGSN. “This in

turn, influences what parents buy with an overwhelming library of info through social media accounts.”

“Buying for baby can be an incredibly overwhelming task, whether it’s your first or fifth child,” says Jim Harris, director of kids’ merchandising at Zulily. Realizing that Mom increasingly seeks advice from her own circle these days, the online retailer guides its customers by highlighting usergenerated content with #ZulilyFinds.

“She is buying based on inspiration and functionality—what will help hit development milestones, build necessary skills and ‘look unique’ on the next playdate, running errands, and of course, on Instagram,” Harris says.

Staged to perfection with trendy baby clothes, toys, home décor and polished off with a carefully considered filter, Instagram has become the No. 1 platform for Mom to document her child’s journey in a curated array of photos, worthy of followers’ double tap. In fact, a poll by the children’s subscription box service Mac & Mia reports parents take up to two hours to capture that perfect shot. “Quality and price point are a given, but it’s more about the uniqueness of the product these days,” says Marie Tillman, founder and CEO. “It’s about posting that picture with something really different and having people say, ‘Wow, where’d you get that?’”

Viral discovery is what Gemma Broekhuis, founder and CEO of Milestone, attributes the majority of her company’s growth to since launching in 2012. “When I started Milestone, Instagram wasn’t a big deal yet.

Can you imagine?” she says with a laugh, noting how the first set of Baby Cards was not made with social media in mind. “It was simply thought to capture memories—like snapshots that could be emailed to grandparents,” she says. “However, our brand grew massively because of social media—parents started spotting cards in others’ posts and wanted to create that look, too.”

Similarly, Lulujo Baby had no intention of stocking Instagram-inspired product until the Canadian company began noticing moms using its blankets as backdrops in photos. “We would often see our XO print blanket beneath a baby along with some sort of milestone card or sticker,” says Alicia Tracy, business development

Lulujo Baby blanket and cards

Oli & Carol teethers

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ABC SPRING CONFERENCE MAY 22-24 manager. “This inspired us to make our own all-in-one set—blanket and (coordinating) cards.” The company’s initial Baby’s First Year sets were released in 2016, including designs like the “I Will Move Mountains” landscape, the “Isn’t She Lovely” floral wreath and the “Loved Beyond Measure” oversized ruler, to name a few. Each blanket can also be used as a nursing or stroller cover or a swaddle. “The idea happened organically,” Tracy says. “We owe it all to the moms.”

Indeed, consumers have more influence than ever today. “Social media has affected the baby apparel and accessory markets by letting the consumer take over,” Rechner says. “Years ago, it was the brands designing what they thought people needed, but in today’s society of instant gratification, brands are now at the mercy of what the customer is demanding.”

BOOTH 311

pediped Originals® have been officially recognized by the American Podiatric Medical Association as contributing to better foot health.

www.pediped.com

W H Y PA R E N T S A R E G O I N G P O S TA L Mac & Mia, a children’s subscription service, surveyed 2,000 new parents about how they use social media to document their little ones.

On which of these occasions did you post about your child?

73% birthday 73% monthly progress 56% sonogram 55% baby shower 36% gender reveal When making a post, what takes the most planning?

33% outfit 31% caption 20% location 16% theme

What are the benefits of sharing posts online?

70% easier for family and friends to feel involved 17% easier to create albums of photos/videos 13% feels good to show off my child What social media assets did you create for your baby?

12% specific hashtag 9% separate social account 5% domain name

What are your plans going forward?

82% will keep their baby posts up even when child gets own account 44% will post less as their child grows beyond two years

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T

eresa Stephen, owner of Teresa’s Room at the California Market Center in Downtown Los Angeles, says the showroom is Insta-ready, stocking more than just blankets and stickers. “Buyers don’t just want the swaddle but the whole cute outfit,” she says, noting that she carries Silkberry Baby swaddles with coordinating outfits, as well as Princess Paradise, which offers complete photo-ready costumes. “The baby can dress up as a policeman, cowboy… you name it, and it will always make an adorable picture,” she says.

The craving for uniqueness and eye-catching edge that Millennial moms share was what drove Bella Tunno to create its popular Wonder Bib designs. Cameron Sobanski, director of operations, says the brand ventured beyond classic graphics like elephants, alligators and ducks to add hip phrases on their bibs. “We started by playing it safe, using single words like ‘Love’ and ‘Happy,’” she says. When buyers immediately took to the new additions the design team added “tongue-in-cheek” pop culture-inspired phrases. Sure enough, buyers fell in love with the more humorous verbiage such as the Drake-inspired mermaid graphic “You Can Call Me On My Shell Phone.” “The funnier we make something, the more people can’t get enough of it,” Sobanski says, adding, “Our growth has a lot to do with how these fun phrases are so visible on today’s social platforms.”

Teether company Oli & Carol has also taken the quirky route of late. Its new line of hyperreal vegetable teethers span lettuce, carrots, broccoli and (bestseller) kale. “Kale is super trendy, very realistic and simply a playful product to show on Instagram or Insta stories,” says Nicole Tafur, marketing director at Bendie, distributor of Oli & Carol. “It doesn’t have to be an influencer using your product to get traction,” she adds. “Just an average mom showcasing a product on her Insta story can be beneficial because at the end of the day, moms trust other moms.”

Karyn Ravin, director of the Babypalooza influencer show in New York, agrees that authenticity is one of the reasons Instagram posts by fellow moms are so effective. “Beyond aesthetic, the posts that do the best on Instagram are those that come from an authentic place for each individual influencer,” she says, noting Lamaze Intimates as a recent example. “We sent product to @KateIreneBlue, and she posted a gorgeous belly photo of herself wearing one of the brand’s nursing bras on her birthday. While Lamaze Intimates was tagged in the image, the caption wasn’t directly talking about how comfortable, stylish or affordable the bra was; it was about her and her pregnancy journey.” Ravin reports that within 24 hours, the post had more than 3,650 likes and almost 150 comments.

In addition to featuring eye-catching products, it helps to have photography skills, like Amanda Pfeiffer, owner of Hush Little Lanie in Merton,

Mud Pie one-pieces

Milestone blocks

WI. The former photographer believes it’s important to keep up with her Instagram’s aesthetic to make sure it matches her customers’ high standards. “It’s really simple—I shoot on a 3x3 white floor drop, fold some new outfits, add some accessories and done,” she says, explaining that a simple flat lay Instagram post is neat, creative and without the hassle of models. “I think everything I post, somebody comes in to buy.”

Another tip: the more attention-grabbing the item featured, the better the response.

Brittany Harrell of Summer Place Showroom at AmericasMart in Atlanta, expects funky accessories to continue to increase in demand, thanks in part to Instagram showcases. “I’m seeing much more accessorizing for babies and toddlers,” she says.

Bestsellers include statement-making soft-sole shoes, hosiery, hair accessories and sunglasses. “Babies don’t really need swim cover ups, but for summer we know they’ll be popular for that perfect pic—pompoms and all,” Harrell says. “Anything

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2018

TREND WATCH

Not Your Mother’s Pearls THE PRI M A ND P RO P E R pearl has come out of its shell! Karl Lagerfeld, experimenting with size, shape and location, first reinterpreted the granny gem staple with a youthful, edgy twist a few seasons back in womenswear. Miu Miu followed suit with pearl-adorned fuzzy pool slides and models sported pearl chokers in Rihanna’s Fenty x Puma show last spring. Alessandro Michele’s Resort 2018 collection for Gucci dove deeper with clothes and accessories covered in pearls—even adorning the eyebrows and hair of its runway models. Childrenswear designers have also jumped on the pearl trend. Be on the lookout in fall collections for pearl accents head-to-toe, spanning elegant headbands to Mary Jane straps.

—Emily Beckman

Loredana crop top

Vince Camuto Mary Jane flats

Mayoral embellished pants

T-Love

Rachel Riley cardigan

Naturino boot MaeLi Rose embellished jeans

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TREND WATCH

Little Mass top

Hannah Banana dress

Baby Sara bomber jacket

Rugged Bear shoe

Paper Wings hoodie Autumn Cashmere sweater

Amber Hagen one-piece

Art & Eden shirt

Appaman gray shirt

No Biggie moon one-piece

Out of This World GROUND CONTROL TO buyers: space as a theme is as hot as a supernova. With the 50th anniversary of the lunar landing coming up, Elon Musk promising SpaceX trips to Mars in the not-too-distant future and reports of possible alien encounters gaining frequency, designers are drawing inspiration from galaxies far, far away. Planetary orbs, stars, quasars, lunar phase diagrams, rockets and astronauts are just some of the space-themed motifs found on boys’ and girls’ playwear, sleepwear and accessories for this fall. A palette rich in futuristic silver, deep space blue, spaceship gray and Mars red completes the mission. —E. B.

Inchworm Alley pajamas

Kate Mack jeans

E A R N S H AW S . C O M

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TREND WATCH Lacoste skirt Minoti metallic skirt

Leoca dress

Habitual Girl bell-sleeve top

N021 denim skirt Le Big gold dress

Omamimini wide-leg shorts

Lanoosh

More Pleats, Please!

PLEATS HAVE RETURNED to the fashion fold. More than a nod to the traditional school girl uniform, wide panel, box, accordion and knife pattern pleats have burst onto the scene with sartorial elegance, including midi hemlines, rich hues and opulent materials of chiffon, suede and leather. Feminine and floaty, little ladies will love the texture’s voluminous twirling attributes, while the versatility of pleats to be dressed up or down will appeal to moms. —E. B.

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TREND WATCH Mon Doux Monde sweater 3 Marthas kitty bib

Yporqué googly eyes top

Toobydoo bunny shirt Charabia

Tip Toey Joey racoon sneakers

Wear the Wild Things Deux par Deux ice cream sweater

Andy & Evan dragon sweater

Collégian slipper socks

WITH VIRTUAL REALITY goggles trumping traditional board games, it’s little wonder kids today are gravitating toward 3-D designs rather than old-school screen-printed tees. This fall, collections come alive with tails swinging from pants, ears perched atop hoods, pompoms filling ice cream cones and googly eyes staring down passersby. They’re creative, crazy and fun for kids, not to mention Instagram-worthy for parents. —E. B.

E A R N S H AW S . C O M

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PHOTOGRAPHY

BY PAUL THORBURN

Modern or traditional, designers deliver choice in fall fashion for babies.

Lucy wears shirt and red playsuit

by Kissy Kissy with Josmo boots and Gund plush bear. Opposite page: Babiators sunglasses, Simply Chickie one-piece with Kickee Pants striped top (worn underneath), red joggers by Molo, clip-on teether

by Loulou Lollipop and Mobility

by Nina sneakers.

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STYLING

BY MARIAH WALKER

Sia wears Sasha + Lucca top, Feltman Brothers knit suspender shorts, red cardigan by Little Zi and Little Giraffe socks. Opposite page: BooginHead teething bib, shaggy jacket by Little Mass, one-piece by The Spunky Stork, Union Jack leggings by Kickee Pants and Frenchie MIni Couture navy moccasins.

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Indra wears Bows Arts barrette, Indikidual banana jumpsuit underneath vegetable dress

by Little Zi and Bella Tunno bib with spoon by Silikids. Opposite page: Florence Eiseman dress and Oeuf socks with Little Giraffe teether and pillow (on floor).

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Ella wears River & Rosy miniature crown clip, Boboli pink jacket, tutu one-piece by Baby Starters, Inchworm Alley printed pants and Pediped sparkle shoes. Opposite page: Bows Arts barrette, Oliver & Rain pink cardigan, plaid one-piece by Petit Atelier, Oeuf knit socks and Gund plush bunny.

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Jonah wears Luli & Me white shirt and suspender shorts and Josmo black boots with stylist’s own socks. Opposite page: Punkster one-piece and Barn of Monkeys long-sleeve shirt (worn underneath) with gray sweatpants by Miles Baby.

Styling assistant: Enid Hunt; grooming

by Thora at Kate Ryan Inc. using The Honest Company baby wipes; set/props: Sets by Sara at Bryan Bantry; shoot location: Studio

by Sara; photo assistant: James Ellington; special thanks to Ross at K&M Camera.

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BEHIND THE SEAMS

Take a Bow Wee Ones celebrates 40 years of success in girls’ accessories.

WHEN MILES FAUST told his wife Gina about the opportunity to buy Wee Ones in 2010, she pointed with delight to the framed photos of their daughters sporting the company’s signature bows.

“As a mom, the brand really meant something to her,” President and CEO Miles Faust says. “It was an easy sell!”

The first-time entrepreneurs were careful however to do their homework before signing on the dotted line. After extensive conversations with consumers and retailers, they were confident that the acquisition of Wee Ones would prove to be a profitable one. “The classic yet playful nature of the brand really resonated with people,” Faust says. “We felt that we had a great foundation to build upon.”

The Fausts did just that over the ensuing eight years. With Faust running the business side and his wife handling creative director duties, the business has grown twofold as it marks its 40th anniversary this year.

Wee Ones has produced hundreds of new SKUs, including bows, clips and hairbands, as well as launched the “WeeStay No Slip Clip” patent and two new labels: the tween accessories line Après Les Petites and the contemporary sock line Sublime Designs. “It’s really satisfying to see a small St. Louis-based company created by a mom expand over four decades into a multi-brand portfolio,” Faust says. “We’re really proud of the progress we’ve made in eight years.”

To officially recognize its 40th anniversary, Wee Ones has introduced the “Celebrate the Bow” campaign inspired by its signature accessory.

“As much as we talk about how quickly trends shift, the grosgrain hair bow has been the heart of Wee Ones for 40 years,” Faust says. “It’s been able to evolve with the times, whether in pattern, material or color.” The company will host special events throughout this year in showrooms and trade shows to mark the anniversary.

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Faust attributes Wee Ones’ long-running success to interpreting trends and maintaining a broad portfolio. “Lots of brands I saw eight years ago at trade shows aren’t around anymore, and I think that’s partially because they had a very narrow interpretation of the industry,” he says. “If you only sell hard headbands and they go out of style, well there goes your entire business!” Adds Gina Faust, “We’re always digging into numbers and looking at what sells by trend, size, color.” She notes that it’s important to understand regional preferences to capture each market. “A huge bow in the south is not going to sell in San Francisco because they want tiny lines,” she says.

Wee Ones’ design and business teams meet about every 13 weeks to discuss trends and production schedules. There’s much to talk about, as Gina Faust says 300 new products are added every six months, meaning there’s approximately 1,000 designs that don’t make the cut. “Even when we feel like we have the greatest design, if our operations manager says it can’t be produced, if our sales team says they can’t sell it, if our marketing team says there’s no way we can properly feature it in our catalog, then there’s no reason to put that design in our line,” she says. Speed to market is also key, she adds. “We’re often inspired by social media. We can see something a Millennial mom posts in the morning and have something similar designed by the afternoon. It’s a really interesting time to be in the business of following trends.”

While the success of Wee Ones has been way above the Fausts’ expectations, both believe it’s important to keep the business in perspective. “We often joke, it’s just a hair bow—we’re not building rockets here,” he says.

“But what keeps us going are the little things, like the feedback from retailers. It’s rewarding to know we’re helping our industry navigate the retail wars, making the little things we do every day matter.” —Emily Beckman

S/S 18 SU NWE AR

NEW COLLECTION

Perfect Ten Frenchie Mini Couture marks a decade of innovation and brand extensions.

ALTHOUGH DELIGHTED BY Frenchie Mini Couture’s 10th anniversary next year, Co-owner Evan Hershenson isn’t planning any extravagant celebrations. The exec believes it’s more important to stay levelheaded and avoid putting efforts on autopilot. “It’s easy to make the mistake of hitting 10 years and thinking, ‘Whew, now we can relax,’” he says. “A decade just means we’ll continue to have fun and make an impact on the industry without necessarily stopping to pat ourselves on the back.”

Frenchie Mini Couture started out in accessories, primarily bibs and hooded towels, and has steadily branched out since. “We were consistently praised for having the best bibs on the market,” Hershenson says, noting the brand’s signature boys’ bib adorned with miniature bow ties as an example. Retailers were quickly drawn to Frenchie’s contemporary yet classic aesthetic, allowing the label to progress into boys’ apparel, soon followed by a girls’ collection.

Now available in more than 100 retailers across the U.S., as well as international distributors in Taiwan, Australia, Israel, Canada and Europe, Hershenson says the focus remains on innovation so accounts keep reordering and consumers keep buying. “It’s always important to introduce newness—no need to wait for a certain season or special occasion to try something different,” he says, adding that the younger parents respond to new concepts.

It’s one reason why he believes traditional items have been experiencing less traction of late. “Being homogenous has never been so detrimental,” Hershenson says. “The harsh truth is there’s no reason for the customer to shop your products if they can get the same thing from a mass market retailer.”

Speaking of, Hershenson expects its new non-traditional boys’ suits—made from a comfortable blend—to be a hit this fall. The ability to be dressed up or down caught the attention of buyers, he says. For girls, reversible sequins and faux fur are popular trends.

In addition, the brand will offer a wider selection of baby clothes that mirror older kids’ styles. “Designs that we wouldn’t normally start until toddler are taken down to baby for adorable mini-me looks,” Hershenson says. Lastly, look for more adult bibs and coordinating dog outfits. “We have a distributor in Australia begging us to produce more dog clothes,” he says. “It certainly makes a great photo when the whole family can match in our tuxedo print—including the dog.” —E.B.

Check out our new collection at www.stonzwear.com

424-6-CLUBGG (424-625-8244) clubggkids.com The Coffs Showroom Dallas World Trade Dallas, Texas tel: (214) 630-9787 fax: (214) 204-0746 info@thecoffs.com

Because big fans come in small sizes Club GG Kids is the place for fan-based apparel for infants & toddlers.

dummy

H AU T E TOPICS EDITOR’S PICKS

DESIGNER CHAT Angel Dear

WITH NEARLY 20 years of experience in the apparel industry at brands including Ralph Lauren and Gap Inc., mother-of-two Amanda Hsiao says childrenswear has been (by far) the most rewarding category as a designer.

“When I was working for Ralph Lauren in menswear, I found myself reflecting on my purpose, asking ‘What does this all mean?’” Hsiao says, explaining that she was never able to come up with a satisfying answer. That is, until she became the design director for Baby Gap in 2006.

“When you design for babies, it becomes so much more about function,” Hsiao says. “There’s a greater focus on necessity and safety—a level of thoughtfulness and awareness you don’t encounter in adult fashion.” From making neck openings wider so toddlers can easily dress themselves to adding reinforced knees for inevitable tumbles on the playground, Hsiao loves each challenge that comes with executing safe and stylish duds in sizes newborn to 24 months.

This year, Hsiao was appointed by the Fashion Institute of Technology as a childrenswear critic for the graduating seniors’ annual Future of Fashion runway show. “Working with the students has been so inspiring,” she says, adding that she can tell a strong designer by one key quality: consistency. “They are given flexibility to create whatever they want, but still maintain a specific idea or point of view throughout the collection. That’s very hard to nail down.”

Hsiao tells the students to enjoy the freedom while they can. “When you work for a company in the real world, you have to design around their brand standards,” she says, noting that school is the perfect time to experiment and figure out who you are as a designer. With that, Hsiao advises students to always stick to what they believe in, even through the pressures that come after graduation. “It’s important to hear everyone’s ideas but maintain your vision during the process,” she says. “If somebody disagrees with you, talk through it, see their point of view—but never lose yourself.” —Emily Beckman What’s trending in infantwear? The mini me trend continues to perform well. Whenever we drop something that looks like scaled down menswear, it’s always a hit. Critters are another huge trend. Critters on pockets, on knees, on butts. We love designing fun graphics, 3-D features or textural elements for the behind—probably because baby is the only category where that is completely acceptable.

Where do you look for inspiration? Runways, the street, television shows, movies, my kids—everywhere! I just finished Stranger

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Modern Twist

Pink Chicken Loulou Lollipop

Llama Drama Are llamas the new unicorns? Designs point to yes.

Things (I know, I’m a little behind), but I have to say that show did an amazing job interpreting retro ’80s with a modern twist. That’s a great example of taking elements from an established trend without copying the vibe verbatim.

Are your daughters interested in fashion? Yes, they are both girly girls who love to be princesses. The more glitter the better! There’s glitter everywhere in my house, which has me constantly bringing out the vacuum.

What celebrity child would you love to dress? Well, I’m obsessed with pretty much all of them, but I’m going to go with Blue Ivy. She’s going to be phenomenal when she grows up. Some people complain she goes a little too far, but honestly what do you expect? It’s Beyoncé’s daughter!

How would you describe your personal aesthetic? I’m definitely a feminine tomboy. My whole life is rooted in denim. I love collecting vintage jeans. And when I’m not in jeans, I’ll wear outfits like army green cargo pants and a floral top or a dress with Air Max sneakers.

What’s something people would be surprised to learn about you?

I could sit all day and just knit. My dream is to open my own local knitting shop in upstate New York. I’d love to teach knitting.

BEHIND THE SEAMS

Three Cheers for 30 Years An appliqués company you can trust.

WHEN A COMPANY can boast 30 years of quality U.S.-made products, it calls for celebration—and 3 Marthas is doing just that. The Dallas-based brand kicked off 2018 with festivities at the Atlanta and Dallas markets, inviting buyers for giveaways, door prizes and special offers.

It also unveiled updates on its signature birthday designs by modifying bibs and buntings with a nostalgic aesthetic. New handmade appliqués have been added to the mix, too. One notable bestseller is a little bear holding a balloon.

“We’re known for our appliqués,” says Juli Dewar, vice president and designer. “We take the art of appliqué and fine-tune it to create designs that delight mothers while preserving our classic craftsmanship.”

To streamline the creative process, Dewar now digitizes her sketches so all embroidery patterns can be produced in-house. “Before we had to outsource my drawings to be digitized,” she says, explaining that patterns had to be transferred back and forth several times in order to accurately communicate her vision. “Now I do it myself, and I’m able to engineer more creative designs,” she says, citing the 3-D tutu on her ballerina kitty series as an example. “I would never have had the patience to do that before,” she adds.

Beyond endearing designs, 3 Marthas is known for quality—visible in its thick cotton terry towels and bibs, and double-napped cotton burp cloths with an 8-ply center for extra absorbency. Each collection includes fine trimmings, like high-thread-count ginghams, imported grosgrain ribbons and waffle pique. For fall, Dewar expects muted and pastel colors to be strong, with gray continuing to gain popularity.

“Ever since we added gray to our line, it’s performed incredibly well,” she says, adding, “I often read Earnshaw’s to get an idea of what’s trending each season and find ways to make each trend my own.”

On the marketing front, Dewar is ramping up 3 Marthas’ social media presence. “We want to beef up all our platforms,” she says. “Not only to connect with consumers but also to communicate with our stores about their 3 Marthas’ department.” For example, the company offers blanks so stores can monogram names and initials. “I love when stores share their monogrammed creations on Instagram—it’s such great inspiration for fellow retailers,” she says.

When it comes to working with retailers, Dewar says flexibility is key. Newer retailers often order products online, while older accounts prefer scheduling appointments to write orders, she says.

The company also regularly mails catalogs. “3 Marthas is all about mixing the old with the new—it’s in our DNA,” Dewar says. “We mix the practical with the beautiful to create products parents use with joy season after season.” —E.B.

SHOP WADDLEANDFRIENDS.COM SALES@WADDLEANDFRIENDS.COM | 916.770.5839

W H A T ’S S E L L I N G

Pie and Rufflebutts to niche players like Kapital K, Tesa Babe and Izzie & Owie to select items from local artisans. “I do a lot of research on products to stay different from other local boutiques,” she says.

This year marks the first where Cornwall is leading the boutique without her daughter. (She left for an alternative career.) She is determined as ever to keep business going strong. “It’s an accomplishment to be in business for five years as of April,” she says, adding that “it’s especially true at a time when most businesses don’t last past three.” She attributes her longevity, in part, to genuinely helping new mothers understand and conquer one of the most exciting yet challenging chapters of their lives. “It’s all about making moms feel good about themselves,” Cornwall says. “Because a happy, healthy mother makes a happy, healthy baby—that satisfaction never gets old.” —Aleda Johnson How’s business? We’re doing pretty well. Since taking over by myself, I’ve been ramping up our online business because I know that’s where the bucks are during slower times in the store. While there’s always going to be people who like to touch and feel things, we’ve been working hard on the backend of the website, which has been getting lots of visits. By the end of the year, we should be just fine.

Mom & Me Boutique Virginia Beach, VA

B

BRENDA CORNWALL NEVER contemplated a career in retail before her daughter asked for help on a college project. With experience running a preschool out of her home for 30 years, Cornwall channeled her entrepreneurial expertise when she and her daughter opened a belly casting service for expectant mothers. The in-home business flourished over the ensuing four years and, in 2014, it was moved into an 8,500-square-foot space and expanded to sell maternity and children’s clothing.

“It’s already overwhelming to be pregnant or a new mom, so shopping shouldn’t be difficult,” Cornwall says, noting that her goal is to keep the store’s experience fun and informative. To ensure knowledgeable staff, Cornwall only hires moms to create a team of experts. “When new or expecting moms walk in they don’t know about what they haven’t read in a book,” she says. “My staff covers the rest—it takes a fellow mom to explain what’s really going on.”

Debunking the perceptions that maternity wear is all frumpy and baby clothes are strictly traditional, Cornwall credits much of Mom & Me Boutique’s success to its unique selection. The kids’ selection, available in sizes newborn to 10 years, spans staple brands like Mud

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What are your best-selling brands? Magnetic Me, Izzy & Owie and Magnolia Baby. Mountain Beach Boutique also performs well, which is big on Etsy and run by a local woman who makes her own dresses.

Any new labels added to the mix of late? We brought in a couple of new lines this year that are doing really well, like Lemon Loves Lime and Kapital K. We also started carrying Cotton On Kids.

What’s your fastest growing category? Swaddles and blankets are big right now, because everyone gifts them for baby showers.

Monogramming is also becoming more popular.

What’s the smartest business decision you’ve made recently?

Finding unique yet affordable maternity brands moms can wear nine months and beyond. We stock brands like Umgee, Entro and Blu Heaven, which aren’t maternity lines but can be worn whether you’re pregnant or not. We even test the clothing when we go to market by taking a pregnant belly with us and try everything on. We look ridiculous, but that’s how we find clothes we know our customers will love.

Where do you see Mom & Me in five years? I expect that we’ll have moved into a bigger location. While we’ll still be carrying maternity lines, we’ll also be carrying more of the essentials, like cribs.

Q&A continued from page 15

What is the best way to attract new retail accounts?

Trade shows are always key for a wholesaler, however shows are not what they used to be. Retailers used to attend shows and buy for the season, but not anymore. Why commit to an order that covers you for six months’ worth of stock when you might be able to get something for six weeks, see how it goes and reorder what works? Now it’s all about discovering, reordering, discovering, reordering—it’s a cycle of constantly adjusting and improving your stock.

How many signed orders are you receiving at shows of late?

I’d say it’s 50/50. Some retailers still swear by ordering at the shows to really take an inperson look and feel at what they’re buying. Trade shows are essential just to meet and greet, whether you’re ordering or not. It’s always nice to make yourself feel more comfortable with the people you’re doing business with, especially new accounts.

“WHEN I FIRST CHANGED A NAPPY, I THOUGHT 'WHAT IDIOT HAS PUT BUTTONS DOWN THE BACK?' ”

Do your children have any say on what makes it into the Powell Craft collection?

Absolutely! When I first changed a nappy, I thought, ‘What idiot has put buttons down the back?’ You know how crazy this is if you’ve ever changed a nappy on an airplane, which I’ve done now. Talk about enlightening. Another great example was when my daughter was four, I gave her 30 rag dolls and asked her to pick her 10 favorites. For three consecutive years, she got the top 10 of the entire year’s sales perfect.

What do you love most about your job?

That feeling when something you’ve tried to get up and running for so long works. After six months of building a range, stocking it, promoting it, raising it, bringing it overseas, steaming it, displaying it and then someone at the show walks up and says, ‘This stuff is terrific. Can I give you an order?’ It brings such a sigh of relief and feeling of achievement. The same feeling comes when a customer returns and says ‘This has gone really well for us. Thank you for your service.’ Then you know the system that you’re working at as your daily grind is obviously working for somebody else. In the end, it has nothing to do with the money—it’s simply the satisfaction of knowing what

INTRODUCING

EARNSHAW’S CREATIVE From seasonal catalogs to impactful ads, our team provides quality design, photography and branding.

SPECIALTIES INCLUDE:

Graphic Design, Photography, Editorial Content, Production, Printing & Mailing

www.earnshawscreative.com Contact Noelle Heffernan for details and rates.

Noelle.Heffernan@9threads.com | 646-216-0056

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4/26/18 2:12 PM

FINAL CUT : OFF THE RUNWAY

Quiet Time Sem Label Blara Organic Million Billion

Carrément Beau

Billieblush Soo Yeon Lim

Chica Chico

La Movida

Haven Kids

VANCOUVER KIDS FASHION Week designers pressed the mute button for Fall ’18 in the form of a color palette rich in soft beiges, dusty pinks, pale yellows and powder blues. The subdued yet sophisticated vibe lends well to transitional wear and provides a fresh take on popular treatments like color blocking and mixed textures. —Emily Beckman

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E A R N S H AW S .C O M A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 8

deer Since 1938

We Launched Our New Website.

BABY-DEER.COM

Celebrate with us!!

Celebrating

80 YEARS

of happy baby feet.

Established 1913

Established 1913

baby-deer.com • 800-325-6116 Style • Heritage • Durability • Established 1913

Corporate Mark Zelen 212-216-6125 1385 Broadway, Suite 1800 New York, NY 10018

Caribbean/ Latin America/ South Florida Rolando & Ana Hidalgo 305-599-8717

International Nathan A. Mamiye 212-216-6008

Midwest Al Zaiff 847-607-8543

South East Richard Rubin 404-577-4383

West Coast Teresa Stephen 213-623-8155

Mid Atlantic Mark Wolbransky 215-364-7906

North East Bill and Sandie Ellsworth 781-326-3999

Texas/South West Annette Cardona-Stein 214-403-7464

Western Canada Jeff Swartz 604-681-1719

CLOTHING FOR THEIR LITTLE WORLD