Fishing in Swedish Lapland ENG

fishing in

SWEDISH LAPLAND SWEDEN’S NORTHERNMOST DESTINATION

The world’s best fishing This is why you shouldn’t miss Swedish Lapland

Supersize me

a road trip for salmon

The beauty and the beast – a salmon fisherman chasing pike

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San

det n a l dås TER

RI ISH W AY D E A SW DS HIS W FIN OME H

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The road to Lake Secret you keep to yourself. Just like where to find chanterelles and the best off-piste skiing, if that’s your preference.

However, after thinking things through properly we’ve also realised that with four national rivers and countless tributaries and thousands of streams from mountains to coast, more than 30,000 lakes and a coastline of over 1,500 kilometres, counting every cape, bay and wonderful beach, there’s space for other angling enthusiasts to visit Swedish Lapland. We’ve realised that without even trying very hard you could go fishing every day of the rest of your life without visiting the same spot twice. Monday: sneaky fishing for sea trout in Byske. Tuesday: pike at the mouth of Råne River. Wednesday: arctic char in Nikkaluokta. Thursday: fishing for perch in Arjeplog’s mountain archipelago on your way to the trout in Sorsele. Friday: after fishing for grayling in the Torne River you stop to watch whitefish being bagged in nets from the piers at the Kukkola Rapids. Saturday: the best grayling fishing you’ll find in the Kalix River. Sunday: pike fishing in Burträsk. Well... you get the picture.

As always the key is to find the right waters – and the easiest way is just to ask a fishing guide for help. The least amount of time wasted per bite. Or you can choose to use your charm and sweet talk the check-out girl or someone working at the petrol station where to buy a fishing licence. Another idea is to ask at the local tourist information or the staff where you’ve chosen to sleep (not spend the night, since the midnight sun is a fisherman’s best friend). You might think there can’t be any ideas to be had there, but remember: they’re at your service and they’ll do their outmost to convince you that Swedish Lapland has the best fishing in the world. They want you to come back. And before you know it, it’s Gunnar, Emilie, Johan, Ted or Håkan you’ll encounter and their suggestions are guaranteed to be well-informed. We’ll start you off with a couple here, and hopefully they’ll make you hungry for more. Because we’ll always save some for you to discover yourself. Perhaps you’ll share them with friends. Perhaps you’ll keep them to yourself – like your very own “Secretjaure”, The Secret Lake Speaking of hunger: take the opportunity to taste all the local produce available in the region: game, reindeer, berries, herbs and, of course, some fish. All of them come packed with natural energy that makes you go that little bit longer. And whether you’re after accommodation with full service or something more basic there are lots of options to choose between. Always near fishing waters. Yes: it’s almost impossible not to stay near the water with all the lakes, streams and rivers in Swedish Lapland, not to mention the sea itself. Come and share our everyday fishing life. Tight Lines!

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Photo: Ted Logardt

t h e r e a l ly g o o d f i s h i n g s p o t s

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Midnight sun and beautiful spey casting. A salmon fisherman somewhere in Swedish Lapland.

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Spotted love – Five thousand characters? About trout? How's that going to work?

– Ok... I thought that someone with nothing but fly fishing on his mind would be able to do it. What about four thousand, then?

– No, no, NO! I meant how do I describe my relationship with trout when so little space is available!?

Text: Johan Jonsson Photo: Hans Johansson

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When you’re chasing trout you sometimes find something else as beautiful. Solitude.

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This very area that we'd spent the week in I'd w h e n i wa s g i v e n the assignment you've just been dreaming about for a long time. But the started reading, writing an article about trout, I dreams never featured shredded tents and waves was misunderstood from the beginning. Not surmore suited for surfing than fly fishing. When prisingly. It happens a lot. Mostly when speaking there were literally only minutes left of our trip, to people who don't share my burning interest in the anguish had reached unhealthy proportions. A fly fishing. After some negotiation my editor and bitterness that was hard to conceal had poisoned I agreed that trout deserved a bit more space. So the wonderful experience we'd been awarded by I started wondering – what is it about this little nature during the last couple of days. And then it (unfortunately often the case) creature that gives happened: the wind died down, the water in the me butterflies? inlet lay flat and in a moment of hollow-eyed sta– Yes! No… YEEES!!! ring my fly disappeared from the surface, followed This is a short and quite loud monologue utteby a self-assured wave from a tail fin of the larger red by the genius and good life connoisseur Rolf variety. Between raising my rod and realising Nylinder from behind his camera. I've just mathat the fish was hooked my naged to get a pretty decent anxiety rose tenfold. After trout on the hook. First it The wind died down, the some heavy pulls through the was interested, then uninwater in the inlet lay rod straight into my heart it terested and then interested flat and in a moment of was transformed into euphoria enough to rise and pick my bordering on insanity.

Klinkhammer, size 16. Rolf hollow-eyed staring my caught it on film. When fly disappeared from the s o w h at ' s t h e ro o t of this the yellow bellied beauty is surface, followed by a self- love? And how did it get so swimming freely once again, assured wave from a tail strong? Almost crazy! The first after a couple of runs far into fin of the larger variety. seed was planted by my father, the backing, and just lets go Kjell, nature lover and lifelong I understand it all, clearer fishing fiend. Sometime in the than ever before: I love you! early 90s he told me it was a finer thing to catch Rolf sighs: “But no, not again”. To be a wildlife a trout than a grayling. I suppose to him and the film maker has its limits. Distance doesn't always other fishermen in Malung the reason was simply make love grow fonder. that there's a lot of grayling in the Västerdal River, but hardly any trout. Following dad's simple mot h e m o s t i n t e r e s t i n g t h i n g about my feelings del it dawned on me that trout were more difficult for trout is how they adapt to different situations. to outwit than grayling. And even if the fishing Just as with the expression “hunger is the best sessions with my seed-planting father have bespice”, the yearning can grow to abnormal procome fewer and farther between, my feelings for portions after a couple of days without fish. The trout have intensified. latest example was towards the end of last sumThe feelings became even stronger when after mer, when a group in a very dampened mood was many years of fishing I had some kind of dry-fly on its way back to Nikkaluokta after a week in revival, with help from the previously mentioned the wilderness. The storms had been bad enough Rolf and the other members of the fly-fishing to ruin our tents and our motto “Dry or Die” – if collective Frontside Fly. The trips went further we caught a fish it had to be rising and on a dry and further north, resulting in paths less travelfly – was held by the thinnest of lines. But by the led, grander nature and clearer water. Mountain last body of water we encountered before heading fishing was no longer a fun week with friends; it home we finally found a lakeside sheltered from was allowed to take up more and more space in the wind. For the first time in a week we saw fish my life. Using tricks that were more or less above that rose more than once. and it felt possible to board I managed to steer my partner's holiday use dry flies.

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The writer in the midst of a massive hatch of sandflies and mayflies.

away from week number 28 and a bit of week 29 and perhaps a bit longer than that. One more week. Two. Perhaps some late-summer fishing?

And... well, you understand... And deep down I know she does too.

A couple of years ago I broke my personal dry-fly record with a somewhat stout, 60-centimetre trout. I sometimes measure my experiences against it. But sometimes not. What's become clear is that my love isn't in the least superficial and based on what other fishermen would call a 'dream catch' – my love is real, separated from the values imposed by the rest of the world. Yes, I understand that this sounds a bit woolly, but let me be more precise: just like the unconditional and life-long love many couples experience, where looks aren't all that matters and love rests on other foundations than ostentation and vanity, my love for the trout rests wholly on the relationship that is shaped before, during, and after it's hooked. The truth of this fondness is also clearly proven by the fact that I have feelings for the trout that outwit me, too. Even if those feelings are more akin to those of unrequited love, they're still there. Bittersweet memories.

Sometimes you get a record. Sometimes you just fet a good sized trout that you love to catch and than release.

a s o u r t r i p s b e c a m e longer and the waters clearer, fishing became a soundless activity where the angle of the sun in relation to 'dangerous curves' 7

Johan Jonsson is one of Swedens great free-skiers, and a Haglöfs Ambassador.

In the summer he’d rather go fishing.

during the best hatching season was studied and debated ad nauseam. And all we got from that 'science' was an activity that changed from an easy way of fishing to become an art form to improve on. A way of life. Parallel to this refinement we saw a change in the relationship with the fish we were trying to sneak up on. Trout went from being 'fish' to individuals, complete with names more often than not. 'The Tuft Trout' was a fish found near a tuft not far from my home in Dalarna. But since then I've used the name for many other tuft trout, snacking on land-living insects falling off tufts into the stream. 'The Blind Trout' went for my friend Ågren's flies five times in a row before the good life connoisseur Patrik Daugaard hooked it on his first cast. a n d i n t h e y e a r o f g r ac e 2016 there's nothing strange about a man showing his emotions. So 8

I'm not the least ashamed of that little tear of joy once 'The Overtime Trout' was allowed to swim back home. The bitterness was gone, there was a shimmer around us, and the 30-kilo rucksack was thrown lightly onto my back for the return.

We form strong relationships with our friends on the other side of the surface. They become our impatient longing and timid objects we pray to. The urge to always hook a fish becomes less strong as the years go by. Just seeing a trout that's somehow different to the rest is often as important as getting it on the hook. Don't get me wrong: we always do our best to catch them, but a successful day by the water doesn't necessarily mean that I've caught a big fish. It could also mean that I've seen that one fish I've never seen before. The one I'd like to catch. The one that somehow brings me closer to becoming the person I would like to be. The young lover.

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Your guide to

The Trout Find your next adventure on the map on the last spread: 4 Nikkaluokta Sarri, www.nikkaluokta.com, 4 Láddjujávri Båttrafik, www.topoflappland.se 5 Máttaráhkká Lodge, www.arcticheli.se 6 ICEHOTEL, www.icehotel.com, 6 Explore Lapland, www.explorelapland.se 6 Lapland Wilderness tours, www.laplandwildernesstours.com 6 Vildmarksservice, www.vildmarksservice.com 7 Destination Kangos, www.destinationkangos.com 8 Rajamaa, www.rajamaa.com 8 JL Guidning, Jesper Larsson, www.jlguiding.com 9 Nordvall Fishing, www.nordvallfishing.com 9 Unnatjerusj Sámi village, Per-Eric Kuoljok, +46 (0)73-031 79 83 9 Fish your Dream, www.fishyourdream.com 9 Laponia, Nikka Suorra, +46 (0)70-637 55 99 10 Stora Sjöfallet, www.storasjofallet.com 10 Helicopter transfer, www.fiskflyg.se 11 Lappeasuando lodge, www.lappeasuando.com 11 Naturupplevelse i Norr, www.kirunanature.com 12 Linafallet Lodge, www.linafalletlodge.se 13 Arctic Circle Adventure, www.arcticcircleadventure.se 15 Jockfall, www.jockfall.com 18 Padjelanta/Badjelánnda, www.lansstyrelsen.se/norrbotten 18 Laponia Fly fishing, www.laponiaflyfishing.se 18 Nordvall Fishing, www.nordvallfishing.com 18 Nord Guide, www.nordguide.se 19 Skabrams gårdsmejeri, www.skabram.se

20 Lapland Vuollerim, www.laplandvuollerim.se 21 Arctic Charter, www.arcticcharter.com 21 Vuoggatjålme, www.vuoggatjolme.se 22 Lappland championship in Trolling, arjeplogstrollingklubb.com 22 Tony Westerlund & Ken Långdahl, +46 (0)76-778 02 40 23 Camp Svanis, www.campsvanis.se 23 Gorgiim Årstidsfolket, Lars Eriksson, +46 (0)925-330 23 23 Sandträsk Jakt & Fiske, www.sandtraskfiske.se 24 Luleälven, Börstingen lax och Havsöring, www.borstingen.se 24 Lax & Öringsfiske, easily accessible for disabled, www.laxochoringsfiske.se 24 Arctic Adventure, Robert Vestin, +46 (0)70-629 84 33 26 Guide Erik Söderlund Fors och Foto, www.forsfoto.com 27 Ammarnäs Guidecenter, www.ammarnasguide.se 27 Fish your Dream, www.fishyourdream.se 27 Emils Fiskecamp, www.kraddselefiske.se 28 Övre Juktådalen, www.natureit.se 29 Sorsele Fiskecentrum, www.sorselefisket.se 30 Slagnäsforsen, easily accessible for disabled, www.slagnascamping.com 31 Abborrträsk Natursafari, www.natursafari.se 31 Boqvist Natur & Fritid, www.natur-fritid.se 31 Wilderness Life, www.wildernesslife.se 31 Burning Snow, www.burning-snow.com 32 På land och Vatten, www.plov.se 32 Naturfiskeguiden Kaj Kottelin, www.naturfiskeguiden.com 36 Stora Bygdeträsket, www.storabygdetrasketsfvo.se

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Laxtrippin’ in Swedish Lapland A car full of fuel, proper rod holders and some really psyched salmon fishermen as company: these are the ideal ingredients for a very serious salmon road trip in Swedish Lapland. This is the story about three highly intensive days in four wild-salmon rivers, in what is sometimes known as Europe’s last wilderness.

Text & photo: Ted Logardt

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Using several rods prepared and ready you can quickly diversify your fishing.

o n e h u n d r e d a n d s e v e n t e e n , one hundred and twenty-two, one hundred and eight, one hundred and twenty-nine...

Ronny Landin and Erling Holmström scroll down among the fish registered during the last couple of days by the camera placed in the fish ladder at Jockfall, on the Kalix River.

–Wow, I say without saying hello. Big fish.

–Mmm, says Ronny. His eyes don’t leave the screen.

Erling, who is responsible for the work done at the fish ladder, says nothing. The minutes pass by.

We’re spellbound by what we see on the screen.

One huge salmon after the other appear on the list.

–The largest one, I say and clear my throat. How big?

Erling doesn’t reply, but I can see he’s looking for something.

–There, he says finally. 137 centimetres.

The biggest one yet. But it’s only July and the salmon are late this year. There’ll be a larger one before the ice sets.* He clicks on number 137 and a short video sequence with an enormous salmon shows up on screen –And it measures correctly, that thing? I say doubtfully.

–From what we’ve seen, Ronny replies, it might miss one or a couple of centimetres on really big fish.

–137 plus a couple of centimetres then, I say, and start fantasizing.

THE LEADER BREAKER The idea is that we’ll go fishing in three rivers in as many days. The rivers Kalix, Torne and Lainio.

If it’s efficient? Perhaps not. It means quite a bit of driving. At least 300 kilometres. And as we all know it doesn’t bite much when you’re sit in the car.

–What do you think about going to Ängesån first? says Ronny. Ängesån isn’t really part of the plan, but I can tell Ronny is itching to go.

–Ok, but then it’s four salmon rivers in three days, I say, laughing. Ängesån is a tributary that joins the Kalix River in Överkalix.

Ten years or so ago, Ängesån were first-class salmon waters, perfect for fly-fishing. But too much fishing and a lack of reasonable rules were some of the reasons why the stock collapsed. Today the salmon fishing is a shadow of what it once was. But it’s improving.

–The river is so nice, Ronny says, and tells us that even if the fishing can be quite bad, he sometimes prefers Ängesån to the Kalix River.

We really do the forest roads in Swedish Lapland justice these days. The dust rises above the gravel and we continue, taking a right-hand turn here, a left-hand turn there.

*) Erling was right about the big fish. On the 3rd of August a gigantic 151-centimetre salmon came through Jockfall.

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–Here, Ronny says all of a sudden, and throws the car door open.

We descend to a wonderful pool. It’s not difficult to imagine the Ängesån being something very special if it had a lot of salmon in it. The sun is low on the horizon. I’m trying to find a good angle for some photos while Ronny casts one 40-metre cast after the other.

Through the viewfinder I suddenly see how he slowly raises the rod and the next second the surface explodes. An Ängesån salmon has been annoyed

by Ronny’s fly. I squeeze the camera trigger. Unfortunately the fight doesn’t last long.

The leader goes.

–But what? Says Ronny as he inspects the nylon.

I checked it just before I began?

Absently he runs his fingers back and forth over the broken nylon line.

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of the best salmon pools in Europe – perhaps even the best.

–If you count fish encounters, this is probably still one of the best pools in Scandinavia. But many of them escape the hook. Especially if they’re big.

Before we head north Ronny guides me to an 86-centimetre, shiny Baltic salmon. Only so-so.

The whole event is quite undramatic and it’s my first Baltic salmon in probably ten years.

The salmon make us late. We’ve arranged to meet Ronny’s brother-in-salmon Lars Munk in Kengis Bruk, by the Torne River. Apart from salmon fishing Munk is a destination developer at Heart of Lapland, where salmon fishing makes up a lot of his work. He’s also a certified instructor (EFFA/FFF) and has, to put it as Ronny would, a damn good flick when he casts.

–The Torne River is good this year, Ronny says, encouraging. Almost as good as last year.

They know this, and other things, thanks to the fish counter in Kattilakoski. Since 2012 more than 50,000 salmons have been registred each year, and the trend is positive. In 2014 a new record was set with over 100,000 individuals passing by.

Once we arrive at Kengis, Munk is already installed. He’s built a fire and wants to make us lunch. But I don’t want to eat; I’d rather go fishing.

Through the viewfinder I suddenly see how he slowly raises the rod and the next second the surface explodes.

HEADING NORTH The next morning we have a little bit of time to cast by the Kalix River, below the mighty Jockfall. It isn’t very surprising that this waterfall is a popular fishing spot. When the salmon ladder was last in use, during the second half of the 90s, many independent authorities within the salmon fishing community said that the pool by Jokkfall was one

Our guide, Ronny Landin, fishing in Jockfall, by many considered the best salmon-fishing pool in Europe.

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The Torne River is a majestic salmon river with around 50,000 salmons running every year.

RELEASE I’m standing at the highest point of the banks by the Kengis rapids. The Torne River is wide. It even makes the Kalix river look small and insignificant.

Luckily there’s an islet only 100 metres from the bank that screens us from the main waters. The seconds before I hear Ronny shout I understand something is about to happen. I can see how Munk is moving backwards towards the field with his rod held high. Seventy metres out or so there’s a salmon up in the air. Even from this distance it looks big. Massive.

I throw my rod in the shrubs and start running.

Munk is putting pressure on the fish. A bit too much, I think, and I ask him to take it easy, but he hisses that he’s the one in charge. And of course he knows what he’s doing. The fight doesn’t last long. At least not as long as it would have done with me in charge.

Ronny steps down into the water. He quickly grabs the tail.

The cast master from Överkalix looks small and thin next to the large fish. He manages to land the salmon on the small, grassy bank. The fish twitches and Ronny goes flying.

–Don’t let go of it, shouts Munk and throws himself over 14

the fish and they manage to hang on to it, together.

The salmon is big. Proper big. It’s actually the biggest, fittest salmon I’ve ever seen in the wild.

– Damn, that’s a fish, I say.

– Yes, damn, say the two salmon brothers, both at once.

We take photos and we measure. I’m spent.

Even though all I’ve done is stand next to it taking photos.

The fish is 117 centimetres long. As Munk describes it, it’s semi-shiny and in top condition. A northern A classic pattern, giant, taken straight from the Willie Gunn, the most unlikely of winter’s but with a modern twist. fishing stories. Using a floating line and a four-centimetres-short Willie Gunn tube fly.

After the release there’s euphoria. We all hug and pat each other’s backs. Someone sends an MMS, someone else calls friends and family.

Someone opens up the hatches to his innermost feelings and shouts straight out exactly what it feels like to reel in a dream catch.

–Check it out, Munk says and shows his phone. It’s his mother-in-law replying to the MMS he sent: HELL THAT’S A SALMON, she writes. In capitals.

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Lars Munk in the fight of his life.

Dream catch in Swedish Lapland – 117 centimetres of salmon.

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Onka is a classic ’salmon pool’ with dramatically steep sides in the Laino River.

SALMON SUPPLY The Torne River is the largest producer of wild salmon for the Baltic Sea. There is a fish-counting device in Kattilakoski that keeps track of the salmon ladder. In 2013 58,000 fish were registered. In 2015 nearly as many. It may be only half of the 100,000 fish registered during the record year 2014, but seen in a longer perspective it makes you look to the future with confidence. The average run used to be a modest 26,500 salmon/ year between 2008–2011.

Unobtrusive tube flies are often a successful weapon in Swedish Lapland.

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LAINIO RIVER Munk shines like the midnight sun when I open my eyes the next morning.

We’ve slept like kings at Pine Tree Lodge in Kangos, a mere kilometre from salmon river number four.

–Let’s go to Onka, he says, and hands me a mug of coffee.

Onka is a classic fishing spot in the Lainio River that everyone who’s ever fished in Swedish Lapland has their own special relationship with.

Munk has a small tent camp in Onka. We’re more comfortable than we perhaps deserve. We eat tinned food with vegetables and drink proper coffee and finish off with dried reindeer meat. And perhaps that’s why we don’t deserve any salmon from the Lainio River.

Munk’s friend Kricka, on the other hand, calls us regularly to report.

He’s had time to tell us about three fish before we’ve finished fishing and are back in reality. In the salmon-fishing reality that consists of driving, casting without result, eating tinned food, but also good company and the possibility of being happy for others even if it’s just via a northern, abrupt MMS. –It’s not easy to get back to business after yesterday, Munken says.

–As a salmon fisherman you’re not allowed to exceed expectations, I say.

Not as much as yesterday. Then it all goes bad.

–It’s a bit like aiming for the tree tops and then without wanting to, you reach the stars, Ronny says.

At least we agree that it mustn’t be repeated. We mustn’t lose focus just because ONE gigantic fish happens to end up on dry land.

–Nah, says Munk, because there are others...

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Your guide to

The Salmon Find your next adventure on the map on the last spread: 3 Lainio Vildmark, www.lainio.com 3 Lannavaara Lodge, www.lannavaaralodge.com 3 Liedakka Jakt och Fiske, www.liedakka.se 3 Neitigården, www.neitigarden.se 6 Explore Lapland, www.explorelapland.se 7 Camp Onka, www.camponka.com 7 Destination Kangos, www.destinationkangos.com 8 Rajamaa, www.rajamaa.com 8 JL Guidning, Jesper Larsson, www.jlguiding.com 8 Arelax Lapland www.arelax.se 11 Lappeasuando lodge, www.lappeasuando.com 11 Naturupplevelse i Norr, www.kirunanature.com

12 Linafallet Lodge, www.linafalletlodge.se 13 Arctic Circle Adventure, www.arcticcircleadventure.se 14 Kengis Bruk, www.kengisbrukfiske.se 15 Jockfall, www.jockfall.com 16 Vietsaniemi Gård, www.arcticcircle.se 16 Guest House Tornedalen, www.guesthousetornedalen.se 17 Kukkolaforsen, www.kukkolaforsen.se 23 Sandträsk Jakt & Fiske, www.sandtraskfiske.se 23 Råneälven, www.ranealven.se 24 Börstingen Lax och Havsöring, www.borstingen.se

24 Lax & Öringsfiske, easily accessible for disabled, www.laxochoringsfiske.se 24 Arctic Adventure, Robert Vestin, +46 (0)70-629 84 33 31 Boqvist Natur & Fritid, www.natur-fritid.se 32 Naturfiskeguiden Kaj Kottelin, www.naturfiskeguiden.com 34 Byske Skomakeri, www.byskeskomakeri.se 34 Swenature, www.swenature.se 34 Aktiv i Norr, www.activenorth.se 34 Cykel och Fiskecenter, www.cykelochfiskecenter.se 35 V River Service, torviksele@gmail.com

With a boat you have the option of crossing the river, just to maximize your chances of catching the big one

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”We’ve arrived in the mountains, unfortunately at the same time as the storm. And last night the rain rattled the entire tent. I remember counting how many poles that would have to come loose before the tent took off. Luckily our tent was still standing when we woke up. I’m sure it’ll get better now.”

”The storm abated just in time and we found a little mountain lake high up in between some massive cliff walls. The sun was shining and the mosquitoes and gnats came back. All of a sudden we saw what we had been dreaming of: large trout rising. We laughed and started joking as if the previous days had never happened, had a nice lunch and finally got our flyfishing rods together in enormous relief. Then the fish stopped rising.” ”Stefan got a really nice fish yesterday. I tailed it for him. But after he’d released it he put his hand on my shoulder and said: “I’ve had one of those seasons too, when everything feels like hard work.” The worst thing was that he was finding it hard to hide his smile behind his comment. I know that he wishes the best for me, as I do for him. But still: everyone catches fish except me – is that fair?”

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A postcard from the mountains The fly fisher and blogger Emilie Björkman went to the mountains with her friends. She dreamt of big arctic char. Judging from the postcards she sent us, the trip didn’t go quite as planned. But as they say in fairytales: everyone lived happily ever after.

Text & photo: Emilie Björkman & Stefan Ågren

”It was a difficult day. We went walking through a magnificent landscape. And sure – it was nice and all that, but I couldn’t really enjoy it. I really wanted a nice arctic char! We were going to have a look by a mountain lake that looked large and deep on the maps.

Once we got there we saw all the willow hanging over the water and just past them, in the shallows, the fish was rising.

“Good luck”, I thought. But unfortunately they didn’t bite.

Another attempt tomorrow.”

”We were going to take one last look at a mountain lake in between the mountain sides.

What looked like a nice little arctic char was rising. As per verbal agreement it was my turn to cast. I tied on a little black gnat and laid down a careful cast in the direction the fish was heading. It bit! But it wasn’t an arctic char, it was a tiny trout. The finishing touch of my entire season.”

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�Stefan and I ran off to have a look a bit further ahead, by another lake, and there we saw it: a proper large arctic char rising only metres from the shoreline. I quickly got a fly out and could see how the fish approached it, slowly. One gulp later and the fish went off towards the deep and the reel was singing. A couple of minutes later it was all over. I tailed it and then I sat there with the biggest arctic char of my life in my hands. Relieved.�

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Your guide to

The Arctic Char Find your next adventure on the map on the last spread: 1 Björkliden Fjällby, www.bjorkliden.com 1 Abisko Mountain Lodge, www.abiskomountainlodge.se 2 Rostujávri Vildmarkscamp, www.rostujavri.com 4 Nikkaluokta Sarri, www.nikkaluokta.com 4 KirunaLáddjujávri Båttrafik, www.topoflappland.se 5 Kirunakortet, www.lansstyrelsen.se/norrbotten/ En/ 5 Kiruna, Helicopter transfer: www.arcticheli.se www.kallaxflyg.se 6 Explore Lapland, www.explorelapland.se 8 JL Guidning, Jesper Larsson, www.jlguiding.com 9 Unnatjerusj Sámi village, Per-Eric Kuoljok: +46 (0)73-031 79 83 9 Fish your Dream, www.fishyourdream.com 9 Laponia, Nikka Suorra, +46 (0)70-637 55 99

10 Stora Sjöfallet, www.storasjofallet.com 10 Helicopter transfer, www.fiskflyg.se 11 Nordvall Fishing, www.nordvallfishing.com 18 Padjelanta/Badjelánnda, www.lansstyrelsen.se/norrbotten 18 Laponia Fly fishing, www.laponiaflyfishing.se 18 Nordvall Fishing, www.nordvallfishing.com 18 Nord Guide, www.nordguide.se 19 Skabrams gårdsmejeri, www.skabram.se 20 Lapland Vuollerim, www.laplandvuollerim.se 21 Arctic Charter, www.arcticcharter.com 21 Miekak, Heli AB, www.miekak.com 21 Camp Gauto, www.campgauto.se 21 Fjällflygarna – Johanssons Fjällstugor, www.fjallflygarna.se 21 Sandvikens Fjällgård, www.sandvikens.se

22 Trolling, GK:s Fiske, +46 (0)961-100 89 23 Årstidsfolket, Lars Eriksson, +46 (0)925-330 23 23 Sörbyn Turism & Konferens, www.sorbyn.se 23 Fisklösträsk, www.bodensjaktochfiske.nu 27 Lapplands safari, www.samiecolodge.com, 27 Ammarnäs Guidecenter, www.ammarnasguide.se 27 Ammarnäs, Fish your Dream, www.fishyourdream.se 29 Sorsele Fiskecentrum, www.sorselefisket.se 29 Övre Juktådalen, www.natureit.se 31 Wilderness Life, www.wildernesslife.se 31 Abborrträsk Natursafari, www.natursafari.se

21

Dreams about Sandåslandet

Text & photo: Gunnar Westrin

The author and fly fisherman Gunnar Westrin feels most at home in the most barren of landscapes. This is how Sandåslandet north of Kiruna became one of his retreats in life. i o f t e n t h i n k a b o u t the fishing spots I’ve chosen in life. In the beginning it was a narrow sphere, of course, with the wilderness of my childhood as the obvious centre of my universe.

Nowadays I’ve come to the conclusion that that particular area was larger than the collective world view. But everything was about to change.

My first fishing trip to Sandåslandet was in the summer of 1971. After something that could be best described as a bureaucratic wrestling game

I was finally able to pack my things and head for Kiruna. The thing was that the stream I’d chosen for my fishing experience was Sami waters at the time. Applications were necessary and made to the county administrative board in Luleå. That’s where you wrestled. The reason for my first trip wasn’t just fishing – it was botany as well. My way out into the wilderness has always been bordered by flowers, but never without a fly-fishing rod.

Naturally I was delighted by the sandy landscape: barren, windy and featuring a noticeably insistent silence. These days, many years after that first time, we note that the name Sandåslandet didn’t exist. Back then it was referred to as ’the northern triangle’. The inspiration for my trip, apart from the flowers, was a book I’d read: the lone wanderer Carsten Lorange’s classic Fluga I Vildmark (only in Swedish, ed.). There were similarities that struck me. From the pictures in the book I could see that we were camping in the same area, around the distinctive mountain Sandberget. Carsten was also as surprised as I was when the first proper grayling took the bait.

TO VINJAK What was most captivating during that first trip was how the level landscape afforded me a brilliant view without having to ascend hills or mountains. A little sandy ridge was all it took to reveal new secrets. Since then I’ve tried to visit these sandy heaths every summer – even if it hasn’t always been possible. Around ten years ago, my friend Peter and I arrived at Vinjak for the first time. As we’ve spent time among the streams my friends and I have ended up naming many unforgettable fishing spots, such as Loodhstryket, 22

F I S HING I N SW E DI S H L APL A ND

In the shadows of the night, the best time to chase Swedish Laplands finest fish.

Westrinudden, Purpurselet, Vargströmmen, Vinkelforsen, Storsandselet, 3G, Rydhströmmen, Storharrselet, Mickey Finnströmmen och Vinjak.

My friend Peter and I came to Vinjak ten years ago, or maybe more. Vinjak is our name and I’m sure others have named their favourite places differently. The spot basically consists of one long stretch of tranquil water. We were about to have our fill of large grayling and it was a strange, deep part of the stream that brought us ecstasy.

It all began with Peter walking upstream to check out the beginning of the calm section of water. His idea was that the current might be stronger further upstream, making it a place grayling would prefer. We could also see one or two spontaneous rises from where the tent stood, fish that were probably swimming around looking for food, and difficult to catch.

After a couple of hours Peter came back really excited. Ten metres or so downstream the top of the pool he’d seen what looked like quite a large grayling rise. Since the water level was relatively normal, the wading worked. From a distance of

fifteen metres he caught a beautiful sandy-ridge grayling straight away, with a perfect cast. The splendid catch was followed by more fish, all of them about a kilo or more.

Because we’d been talking about the deep parts of the stream that I’d got to know through the years, and how they played a role during the grayling run, he decided to explore the area. There was quite a big area that was deeper than the rest.

How that hollow could have formed in a sandy riverbed was quite a mystery; it was bewildering.

A big boulder can often cause that kind of hole to form as the current creates a crater around it.

But the hole can’t last forever. The day will come when the hollowed-out area around the boulder becomes large enough to swallow the boulder.

If conditions are favourable a new hollow will be created, but it takes a long time. This is how large boulders can move across sandy riverbeds.

THE CRAZY REINDEER Peter and I went there again a while ago. The weather was quite temperate with a mild wind 23

sweeping though the valley and unusually intense mosquitoes. The grayling were rising. Wise from last time we chose to put the tent a lot nearer Peter’s spot. After the tent was up we made a little fire and some coffee, the traditional welcome routine. Straight away we started talking about previous visits to Vinjak and the sulky reindeer that seemed to live in the area. And all of a sudden a reindeer did come charging across the heath, annoyed by the advances of mosquitoes and gnats. My friend is an avid hunter, and he shaped his hands to blow the call of a rutting elk.

And the reindeer got absolutely mad, forcing us to hide behind the tent. I’d met a properly crazy reindeer a couple of years earlier, back where we set camp that first time. It was a rather small ani24

mal, but for some reason absolutely furious with me. The attack was so unexpected I almost didn’t have time to jump out of the way, into a small shrub. I danced back and forth for a while, in and out of the shrub, and tried to throw pebbles at my attacker.

CRACKLED MIRROR My friend Peter certainly has the right attitude when it comes to fishing. After the coffee and sandwich he rolled out his camping mat and sleeping bag on the heath, found himself a book, and quickly positioned himself on his back. There was absolutely no hurry to go fishing, the time for that would come. And when the quiet evening had invaded the landscape, the wind had died F I S HING I N SW E DI S H L APL A ND

”

…it was a strange, deep part of the stream that brought us ecstasy.

down and the reindeer disappeared, he close his book with a thud and quickly got up. This was it, this was when the graylings would get a hard time out in the current.

We sat down by the edge of an ancient mount on a bog where the cloudberries were slowly ripening to check the intensity of the rise. The opposite bank was reflected in the water, turning the trees into a riparian palette of blue, green and brown. In the middle of the stream we saw a real lump of a fish rise, so big that the entire mirrored world shattered. Way over a kilo, we thought.

THE GOOD HOLLOW Waking up in the morning the rain was still in the air. It pattered on the canvas and made us decide

to make coffee in the apsis. Those moments are worth their weight in gold. There’s calm there, the feeling of just having woken up, and the smell of coffee. It also helps that your experience is shared by a good friend, someone you know inside out.

Everything is easier to deal with then. But we suddenly realised we’d been tricked, and properly at that. The illusion was revealed when a stray ray of light shone through. It wasn’t rain, it was mosquitoes and gnats wanting to come inside and have a party. They bounced so hard against the canvas that the sound was that of a summer rain. So the morning sun was already high in the sky when we looked out. The perpetually grumpy reindeer was idling around the heath and down by the edge of the stream a persistently cheeping Golden Plover 25

was on patrol. If there’s one bird that can give a mountain wanderer the right, slightly melancholic, feeling that’s the one. The sound is as barren as the landscape, as irresistibly beautiful as a windswept sandy ridge against the light.

Peters hole seemed unusually quiet in the morning. In spite of the lack of life we felt confident. We knew the grayling were there. Now it was my turn to try the fishing around and inside the grayling hollow. Peter was really keen. He reminded me about the large grayling he’d caught at that spot ten years or so ago, a beautiful fish measuring a full 57 centimetres and with a colossal dorsal fin.

There was something special in the air this day. An inexplicable excitement had engraved itself, something tangible, yet impossible to explain.

Suddenly my friend told me that he thought he’d seen a glimpse of a monstrous grayling. If there are those weighing 1.7 kilos out there, there ought to be even larger ones too, he mumbled before I slowly waded out.

THE BIGGEST ONE IN THE CREEK Even if nothing was rising the fish showed their interest. Peter sat on his heels on a little hill with shrubs and willows between himself and the stream. A swift merlin escaped through the trees, followed by an enraged outfield of bluethroats.

I have no idea how to define time. But it goes by. The graylings became more and more entertained by my flies as the day ripened and I kept fishing. Peter sat on his hill for a long time, all quiet, but finally he started fishing. He’d probably spotted something. Then a tangible vacuum swept in, all over the mountains. All of a sudden I found it hard to breathe. Was there someone who wanted to cry? I could feel the sorrow.

When we walked back towards our old spot a bit later Peter seemed dejected, more than I thought he had cause for. Something had obviously happened over there in the scrubland. Slowly he told me about the gigantic grayling that bit on his first cast and jumped high in the air before landing on its side with a loud splash. He saw how the fly came loose before the fish landed in the water and how forcefully the fly line came bouncing back. The largest creature in the stream had shown its face, said thanks for the invite, but then spat the iron out before it was too late.

Evening arrived, the waders came off and the fishing rods were placed against a mountain birch. Coffee and sandwiches was dinner enough.

My friend wriggled his way into his sleeping bag and reached for his book. He suddenly smiled and looked at me: –It weighed two kilos. At least.

The biggest one in the creek, took the fly, jumped, and than disapeared with a splash.

26

F I S HING I N SW E DI S H L APL A ND

Your guide to

The Grayling Find your next adventure on the map on the last spread: 1 Abisko Mountain Lodge, www.abiskomountainlodge.se 1 Björkliden, www.bjorkliden.com 2 Rostujávri Vildmarkscamp, www.rostujavri.com, 5 Kiruna, regulated water, (for instance Tavvaätno, Råstoätnu, Pirtimysjokk): www.arcticheli.se, www.kallaxflyg.se 6 ICEHOTEL, www.icehotel.com, 6 Lapland Wilderness tours, www.laplandwildernesstours.com 6 Vildmarksservice, www.vildmarksservice.com 6 Explore Lapland, www.explorelapland.se 7 Camp Onka, www.camponka.com 7 Destination Kangos, www.destinationkangos.com 8 Rajamaa, www.rajamaa.com 8 JL Guidning, Jesper Larsson, www.jlguiding.com 8 Arelax Lapland www.arelax.se 9 Unnatjerusj Sámi village, Per-Eric Kuoljok, +46 (0)73-031 79 83 9 Fish your Dream, www.fishyourdream.com 9 Laponia, Nikka Suorra, +46 (0)70-637 55 99 10 Helicopter transfer, www.fiskflyg.se 10 Stora Sjöfallet, www.storasjofallet.com 11 Lappeasuando lodge, www.lappeasuando.com, 11 Naturupplevelse i Norr, www.kirunanature.com

11 Kiruna, Kalix och Kaitum rivers: Vildmarksservice, www.vildmarksservice.com 11 Nordvall Fishing, www.nordvallfishing.com 12 Linafallet Lodge, www.linafalletlodge.se 13 Arctic Circle Adventure, www.arcticcircleadventure.se 14 Kengis Bruk, www.kengisbrukfiske.se 15 Jockfall, www.jockfall.com 16 Vietsaniemi Gård, www.arcticcircle.se 16 Guest House Tornedalen, www.guesthousetornedalen.se 17 Kukkolaforsen, www.kukkolaforsen.se 19 Skabrams gårdsmejeri, www.skabram.se 20 Lapland Vuollerim, www.laplandvuollerim.se 21 Arctic Charter, www.arcticcharter.com 22 Mellanström Stugby, www.mellanstromsstugby.se 22 Laisälven downstream Storlaisan, www.laisalven.se 22 Arjeplogsströmmarna, Turistbyrå +46 (0)961-145 20 23 Sandträsk Jakt & Fiske, www.sandtraskfiske.se 23 Sörbyn Turism & Konferens, Palle Andersson, +46 (0)924-220 36 23 CreActive Adventure, Love Rynbäck, +46 (0)70-207 37 51 23 Råneälven, www.ranealven.se

23 Camp Svanis, www.campsvanis.se 24 Arctic Adventure, Robert Vestin, +46 (0)70-629 84 33 26 Camp Frevisören, www.frevisoren.se 26 Guide Erik Söderlund Fors och Foto, www.forsfoto.com 27 Ammarnäs Guidecenter, www.ammarnasguide.se 27 Fish your Dream, www.fishyourdream.se 27 Emils Fiskecamp, www.kraddselefiske.se 28 Övre Juktådalen, www.natureit.se 28 Juktån Mellersta FVO, accessible for disabled, www.fiskekort.se 28 Lapland Time, www.laplandtime.com 29 Sorsele Fiskecentrum, www.sorselefisket.se 31 Boqvist Natur & Fritid, www.natur-fritid.se 31 Wilderness Life, www.wildernesslife.se 31 Burning Snow, www.burning-snow.com 31 Abborträsk Natursafari, www.natursafari.se 32 På land och Vatten, www.plov.se 32 Naturfiskeguiden Kaj Kottelin, www.naturfiskeguiden.com 36 Stora Bygdeträsket, www.storabygdetrasketsfvo.se

27

Four national rivers WITH BRILLIANT FISHING

Four of Sweden's large rivers are classified as national rivers and as such protected from exploitation. The four are: the Torne River, the Kalix River, the Pite River and the Vindel River – all found in Swedish Lapland.

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KALIX BODEN IT

Photo: Carl Johan Utsi

The magnificient rapids of Kattilakoski, on the Torne river.

1. THE TORNE RIVER

2. THE KALIX RIVER

3. THE PITE RIVER

4. THE VINDEL RIVER

The Torne River is the longest river in Swedish Lapland.

It rises near Torne Lake in the north-west and flows for 520 kilometres to the Bothnian Bay. The lower 150 kilometres also form the boundary between Sweden and Finland, but historically speaking that part of the river has united people living on both sides and also served as an important log driving route. There is a lot of fish in the Torne River, especially salmon. The shape of the river has led to the development of unique fishing methods. At the Kukkola Rapids, for example, where whitefish is fished out using bag nets from long piers, so-called pator, built into the rapids. The Torne River is also known for its transparent ice and plays a crucial role every year when the ICEHOTEL in Jukkasjärvi is built.

From the Kebnekaise massif in the west, the Kalix River flows 430 kilometres down to the coast and has several tributaries along the way, such as the Kaitum River and Ängesån. The Kalix River gets a large inflow of water through the Tärendö River from the Torne River via one of Sweden's few bifurcations.

The waterfall Jockfallet, total height of fall of nine metres, is the highest waterfall along the river. There is a fish-counting station here that measures fish that pass. 2013 it measured a record-breaking salmon that was 151 centimetres long.

The fall height of the Kalix River in general is quite even with some smaller rapids and waterfalls. It features a varied selection of fish with stable stocks of grayling, trout, whitefish, arctic char, pike and last but not least: salmon.

This river stretches 410 kilometres from the Norwegian border and the Sulitelma massif, one of the largest glaciers in Sweden, to its mouth in the Bothnian Bay by Pitsund. North of Moskosel are some of the most beautiful rapids in Europe, the Troll Rapids. The Pite River narrows at this point and creates a canyon-like landscape with several diversions. The five-kilometre-long Storforsen rapids near Älvsbyn are Sweden's biggest unexploited rapids; the total height of fall is 82 metres and the last two kilometres have a height of fall of 60 metres. Because of the impressive scenery and valuable nature, Storforsen has become a nature reserve.

It is a very well-known river for grayling.

From the Norwegian border and through the largest lake on the river, Lake Storvindeln, the Vindel River stretches all the way down to Vännäsby, 500 kilometres in total. It's characterised by its rapids and the stretches of calm waters in between. The Swedish sel for those stretches of smooth waters between rapids is common in place names along the river. There are nearly a hundred named rapids, and plenty of good fishing waters with stream fishing for grayling, salmon and trout, for example. Surrounding the river are many nature reserves, for example Vindelfjällen in the Vindel mountain region, which is one of the largest reserves in Europe. The entire river valley is also a future UNESCO Biosphere Region. You can also fish for the world-famous Ammarnäs Trout in the Vindel River.

29

10 DIFFERENT FISH TO HOOK UP WITH IN SWEDISH LAPLAND

Grasping the catch Text: Håkan Stenlund Illustrations: Lisa Wallin/Meramedia

SALMON (salmo salar) The University of Uppsala was partly funded by profits from the salmon fishing in Edeforsen rapids (near Harads and Treehotel) in the Lule River. The profits from salmon fishing were also used to found the city of Luleå. In fact, up until the 20th century salmon, not steel, was Luleå's main source of income. In 1949 110 tonnes of salmon were caught in the river. These days you'll probably want to head to the Byske, Kalix, Torne and Vindel Rivers instead, even if the fishing is good downstream from the Bodforsen rapids.

lax (salmo salar)

PELED (coregonus peled)

kisellaksrots

In Lake Storvindeln, along the Vindel River, there is a very unique fish: the peled. It used to be classified as a variety of whitefish, but the morphological difference is considerable. For example, its eyes and mouth are larger and it has an extreme amount of gill rakers. Even if this 'original whitefish' is acutely threatened, it's more or less unknown. Researchers used to believe it had relatives in Siberia, but that's not the case. Classic whitefish, which is a wonderful table fish, provides us with a spectacle on the long piers of the Torne and Kalix rivers when it's fished out using bag nets. Whitefish is always present in the Kukkola cultural village, in the rapids as well as on the menu.

)delep sunogeroc(

PIKE (esox lucius) The Russian author Sergei Aksakov wrote: “The greediness of pike knows no bounds”. It's not surprising that we call them crocodiles.

It often bites fish too large for it to swallow; it's greed literally kills it. The present Swedish record is 19.34 kilos, but many pike have been caught and weighed in at more than 20 kilos, but the methods of catching them or the weighing procedure have been questioned. Among other stories, rumour has it that a 30-kilo pike was once caught in Lake Hornavan in Arjeplog. The female is the larger version of these crocodiles. Very few male pike reach ten kilos. These ( e sdays o x l it's u c imore us) common to measure the length of the pike instead of the weight, because more and more anglers practise catch and release and put their pike back. A one-metre pike is a trophy.

gädda

PERCH (perca fluviatilis)

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) s i l i t a i v u fl a c r e p (

Perch skin was used when making coffee back in the day, and referred to as 'sieve skin'. People used to sieve coffee through a perch skin to separate the grounds from the coffee. Enok Sarri in Nikkaluokta would predict the weather using reindeer stomachs and perch fins. Another weather teller, Jean Jönsson, remembers how all perch fins were black during autumn 1965. That winter was unusually cold. According to legend the perch got its name when Saint Peter lost his key in a lake where the perch lived. When the perch refused to bring the keys back the other fish got upset and beat the perch until stripes appeared. In reality the perch normally take the bait. The Swedish record is 3.15 kilos, but anything over a kilo is a nice trophy. The perch is also a really tasty table fish.

F I S HING I N SW E DI S H L APL A ND

MINNOW (phoxinus phoxinus) The most common fish in Sweden, yet a species that almost no-one recognises, because they think it's something else. Perhaps the fry or young fish of another species.

The minnow is known by many different names in Sweden: elritsa, kvidd, alkuva, alkutta, alekula, alkura, kur, äling, sabbik, elling, glirr, gli, blindsill, budd, hundgädda, iggling, im, kvidd, laxbådd, lortbuk, mjolpus, mudd, myrsik, spragg, stensil, görkänga, skinnfisk, plump, agn, ölkytt and örkytt. Next time you go for a swim and see fish that are 6–8 centimetre long in the water around you, they're probably minnow.

astirle

) s u n i x onamaycush) hp sunixohp( LAKE TROUT (salvelinus

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A latecomer in Swedish Lapland. Or, perhaps a kind of research 'Gulag'. The species – sometimes spitefully referred to as 'pike trout' – was introduced to the large mountain lakes to eat small fish. According to researchers they wouldn't be able to breed well in these new waters. But the new species didn't care much about either assumption. The stock of smaller fish hasn't been that affected and the lake trout is multiplying. World-leading research is carried out in Ammarnäs by the University of Umeå. And many trolling fishermen find their challenge in the hunt for the lake trout.

(salvelinus namaycush)

ARCTIC CHAR (salvelinus alpinus) Fishing journalists often refer to the arctic char as 'the Greta Garbo of the mountains'. Partly because of its beauty and partly because of its temperament. There's no other fish that can make mountain fishing go from one extreme to the other the way this Lady Camellia does. One second it bites anything. The next there's absolutely nothing you can tempt it with. Among chefs the arctic char is a sought-after table fish.

It's a little bit fattier than other salmon species and therefore there's less risk of it becoming 'dry as a bone' when you fry it.

gnidörlläjf )sunipla sunilevlas(

TROUT (salmo trutta)

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A sweet-water chameleon and almost every sport fisherman’s dream. The trout can adapt to all kinds of environments as long as the water quality is good. There’s the anadromous, or sea-run, kind that spends its life in the Baltic Sea and then rises up the rivers to spawn. There’s the brown trout version that stays in small bodies of water and just adapts its size to its habitat. And there’s the version that lives in lakes and runs up the rivers to spawn during autumn, and they can get as big as you’d like. The Swedish record, 17 kilos, is from a lake in Swedish Lapland.

(salmo trutta)

VENDACE (coregonus albula) As a sport fish perhaps it's not worth mentioning, but as an individual it's very special. It's a kind of matriarchy in the northern Baltic Sea. Or rather – a fish subject to gynocracy where the 'women', the females, are worshipped for their roe and the males might at best be salted and barbecued on a gridiron over an open fire. Vendace roe from Kalix became Sweden's first product with protected designation of origin in 2010, on a par with Champagne and Parmesan. And if you ask us it goes well with both, and with much else besides.

ajölkis )alubla sunogeroc(

GRAYLING (thymallus thymallus) It’s said that the grayling gets its Latin name from smelling vaguely of thyme, thymos, when it’s caught. The large, shimmering dorsal fin – often known as ‘the sail’ among sport fishermen – is the grayling’s distinctive feature. And it’s also a real mood enhancer for us fishermen, because there’s always a grayling in the mood for a bite. And if you find one you’ll find several. Grayling live in shoals.

It’s present all over Swedish Lapland, from the sea to the mountains. A one-kilo grayling is a trophy, but many weighing in at over two kilos are caught every year.

harr

31

Beauty

AND THE BEAST Text & photo: Ted Logardt

When it comes to sport fishing, Skellefteå is known for two things: salmon and pike.

Or beauties and beasts, if you prefer. t h e f o g i s d e n s e . It’s one of the last mornings of summer. I’m not really sure what I’m doing here. I fish salmon, and salmon you find in the Byske River, the Åby River or possibly the Kåge River. Not here, in lake Stora Bygdeträsk.

–I think we’ll start in that inlet over there, Magnus says and turns the handle to make the boat accelerate.

Magnus, or Mangeboy as we call him, is a pike fisher.

He’s actually one of the best in Sweden. A few years ago he fished the pants off all the southerners in a national pike-fishing competition by catching five pikes that measured a total of 597 centimetres. All of them caught in waters near Skellefteå. And today he’s promised to teach me how to catch the big pike.

CHALLENGES Magnus tells me that nearly all fishing waters around Skellefteå feature pike longer than 100 centimetres.

The challenge is to find the waters where the longest pikes weigh the most.

Keep everything tidy. Magnus keeps checking the bottom of the lake using the sonar.

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F I S HING I N SW E DI S H L APL A ND

Magnus, or Mangeboy as he's known by pike fishers, is one of the most skilled big-pike hunters in Sweden.

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–The challenge with salmon fishing, I say, is to learn how to close your eyes. To facts. Such as that it takes at least a thousand casts to catch one shiny salmon in the north of Sweden. Statistically speaking.

–You shouldn’t trust statistics, Magnus says, laughing.

We rig our rods. Five of them. You have to adapt methods to circumstances and now that we’re about to start fishing in West Bothnia’s largest lake, we’re going trolling.

–Large pike can lurk anywhere, he says. If you want to be successful you have to cover as large an area as possible.

BIG FISH ARE MEASURED IN CENTIMETRES

Light or dark – the choice of bait might be crucial.

Pike fishing is serious business for Magnus. He is purposeful and strategic. He even makes his own bait, and they’ve caught so many and such large pikes that they’re now available for purchase in fishing stores all over the country, –Just so you know, I say while Magnus is digging for something in one of the boxes brimming with bait, I’ve caught a Baltic salmon that was 112 centimetres. All shiny.

–My largest pike was 122 centimetres, he counters. It looked like a waterlogged tree trunk when it surfaced.

Centimetres are important to sport fishermen.

It used to be all about the weight: kilos and grams.

Now it’s as acceptable to measure your catch. It’s to do with catch and release, which means that you let the fish back into the water after you’ve caught it.

–It’s better to keep the big fish in the water, Magnus says. Catch and release is a must if we want good fishing in the future.

PERSONAL BEST

Ted Logardt is a committed fisherman who perhaps now understands the excitement of chasing beasts.

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I modestly reveal that my biggest pike was a summer fish that weighed 2.5 kilos.

–Today you’ll get a personal best then, Magnus says. There’s a lot of bait fish here.

He points to the sonar. It doesn’t take long before there’s a pike on one of Magnus’s baits.

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Taking a steady grip of the gills will help get the pike off the hook even if the bait is tricky to remove.

–That’s probably a decent fish, he says and hands me the rod.

Reeling it in proves undramatic. Magnus grabs the gills with a practised move. The scales show nearly six kilos. As a salmon fisherman I’m finding it difficult to accept how easy pike fishing seems.

–Smaller pike don’t cause many problems, Magnus says. The proper big ones, on the other hand, then you need to know what you’re doing.

–Smaller pike? I say, offended. I’ve just more than doubled my personal best.

ALL’S WELL...?

We continue our session. Another strike. Heavy.

The rod is bent double, I reach for it but then it just straightens out.

–No, Magnus says. Not like this.

He stares blankly at the open bait lock. We’ve just lost a big fish. A proper big one, even by Magnus’s standards.

–Plus ten, I say.

–Easily.

–It happens; they are big fish.

–But not this way. Not because of an open bait lock.

He puts a new bait on the rod. We sit trolling for another half an hour. We don’t speak. I can tell that Magnus took the loss of that pike hard.

Finally he says: –Nah, to hell with it.

Because sometimes you have to break down and recover – even if you’re one of the best bigpike hunters in Sweden.

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Catch and release is a must for big pike to be available in future.

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Your guide to

The Pike Find your next adventure on the map on the last spread: 3 Lainio Vildmark, www.lainio.com 3 Liedakka Jakt och Fiske, www.liedakka.se 3 Neitigården, www.neitigarden.se 3 Sopperobyarnas vatten, www.sopperobyar.se 4 Nikkaluokta Sarri, www.nikkaluokta.com 6 Lapland Wilderness Tours, www.laplandwildernesstours.com 8 Rajamaa, www.rajamaa.com 8 JL Guidning, Jesper Larsson, www.jlguiding.com 9 Unnatjerusj Sámi village, Per-Eric Kuoljok, +46 (0)73-031 79 83 9 Fish your Dream, www.fishyourdream.com 9 Laponia, Nikka Suorra, +46 (0)70-637 55 99 10 Stora Sjöfallet, www.storasjofallet.com 15 Jockfall, www.jockfall.com 16 Rantajärvi Vildmark, www.rantajarvi.se

16 Poljakt och Turism, www.poljaktoturism.se 20 Lapland Vuollerim, www.laplandvuollerim.se 21 Arctic Charter, www.arcticcharter.com 22 Guide Nicklas Hallnor, +46 (0)73-846 27 62 22 Hornavan, Uddjaur & Kakel, Turistbyrå +46 (0)961-145 20 22 Östra Mullejaur, www.laisalven.se 23 Sandträsk Jakt & Fiske, www.sandtraskfiske.se 23 Råneälven, www.ranealven.se 25 Creactive Adventure, www.creactive-adventure.se 26 Camp Frevisören, www.frevisoren.se 26 Upplev Baskeri Skärgård, www.upplevbaskeriskargard.se 26 Land och Strand Pålänge, www.landochstrand.se 26 Guide Erik Söderlund Fors och Foto, www.forsfoto.com

29 Sorsele Fiskecentrum, www.sorselefisket.se 31 Boqvist Natur & Fritid, www.natur-fritid.se 31 Wilderness Life, www.wildernesslife.se 31 Burning Snow, www.burning-snow.com 31 Abborträsk Natursafari, www.natursafari.se 32 På land och Vatten, www.plov.se 32 Naturfiskeguiden Kaj Kottelin, www.naturfiskeguiden.com 33 Fritid och Vildmark, www.fritidvildmark.se 33 Piteå älvdal, www.pitealv.se 35 Lapland Time, www.laplandtime.com 36 Stora Bygdeträsket, www.storabygdetrasketsfvo.se 36 Burträsket, www.burealvensovrefvo.se

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Photo: Håkan Stenlund

Just another well spent day in paradise. Alone with all the water in the world.

The meaning of life

Text: Håkan Stenlund

Håkan Stenlund worked as a freelance reporter for 25 years writing about fishing, hunting and skiing. He's one of the outdoor company Patagonia's Fly Fishing Ambassadors. We wanted him to explain why he's moved back home to Sorsele – a place with some of the best fishing waters in the world. And who could be more suitable than Håkan himself to conduct that interview?

Sorsele, but seriously: isn’t it a bit of a backwater?

It just depends on what kind of life you’re after. Sorsele is no world metropolis. But if you’ve spent your entire adulthood just thinking that all you want to do is to go fishing – well, then ’backwater’ is a pretty nice-sounding option. I also think it’s a bit unfair.

If we take Sorsele as an example, I’ve got four airports within a 90 minutes’ drive. Add an hour and I’ve got another four. Go on any charter trip you like and you’ll find that a threehour transfer is nothing unusual. This is what’s it’s like in the entire region Swedish Lapland. So instead of talking distances we should talk time. Travelling is all about time anyway.

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But the best fishing waters in the world? What do you base that on?

On what I’ve seen. The trout isn’t bigger in New Zealand or Montana. I suppose the fishing experience, the ’package’ as we say in the tourism business, is a bit different there. But I find it hard to believe that many places in the world can provide me with a 15-kilo salmon, a 10-kilo pike, a 5-kilo trout, a 3-kilo arctic charr, a 2-kilo grayling and a 1-kilo perch on the same fishing trip without having to drive more than an hour in between each. But that’s what it’s like here, every day during season, if you know what I mean.

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So what is it with fishing that got you hooked?

Every fisherman has their own reply to that question. In my case it started with a trout biting my fly when I was five. Since then I’ve often wondered who caught whom. But my journey isn’t that different to others’. First you just want to catch plenty of fish, then big fish and then the ’difficult’ fish. At the end you’ve come full circle and all you want to do is to get out there. All the time.

And Patagonia, how did that happen?

In a way I’ve been a ’Patagoniac’ since the 80s. But as a freelance journalist it wasn’t ethical to be their ’ambassador’.

But I like their philosophy, like in their latest ad: “It’s better than new – it’s worn”. You can apply this to sustainable fishing, or to life in general for that matter. Don’t throw away what can be repaired. Once upon a time it was the most beautiful thing you had. Some fish, lovers, or waders are just too valuable to ’catch’ only once.

Yes, but let’s return to Sorsele for a moment. Is it worth missing out on all the rest just because the fish bite?

All the rest? Now you sound like my big-city friends. Sometimes we have a strange notion of what it’s like to live in a sparsely-populated area. “Nothing happens there, I suppose”. No, there’s no Arts Centre where you can go to sit back with your arms folded and be served culture. If you want to listen to someone playing the guitar perhaps you’ll have to sort it out yourself. But I like that kind of place. People do something, they participate in society themselves. It’s sturdy and reliable. The poetry association in Sorsele has published three poem anthologies written by more than 150 different people.

That’s five per cent of the inhabitants in the municipal area. One in twenty people I meet at the store can call themselves a poet. I’m not sure it’s like that everywhere.

But aren’t you looking through rose-tinted glasses now?

It’s still important to ask yourself what really matters in live. We have, in most cases and based on certain set conditions, the possibility to choose the quality of life we want. I don’t care how other people choose to live their lives, I’ve got more than enough work just managing my own. So if it’s important to you to be on the property ladder, a sparsely-populated area might not be the place to go for. But if you prioritise a life where you’d rather go fishing than queue up behind a red light, then it becomes an option. Everything depends on how you define the quality of life. I tend to find it in cold water.

Photo: Gösta Fries

Ok. There’s lots of fish and the fish is big. But is that enough to say best in the world?

At least it’s a start. Speaking of good fishing there are other variables to consider. But one thing is always true: few people and lots of water equals good fishing. Other things to consider are the amount of fish, and the variety of fish, of course. My friend went to Gargån (a tributary of the Vindel River, Ed.) and caught eight different kinds of fish from the same spot: trout, grayling, pike, perch, whitefish, ide, vendace and dace. You also have to judge the landscape you go fishing in.

It’s beautiful, grand and quite empty of people. Then you’ll have to add the price you pay and accessibility. “More bang for the buck” is difficult to find.

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There is more water than fishermen in Swedish lapland. Here we’ve pointed out a few very classic places – with some of the best guides and entrepreneurs in the area. Find contact information on pages: trout (9), salmon (17), arctic char (21), grayling (27) and pike (37).

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Fishing information The destination Swedish Lapland consists of 16 municipalities, more than 25% of the surface of Sweden, the Baltic sea, the deepest lake in Sweden, the biggest mountain lake in Scandinavia, four national rivers, several river valleys, many rapids, forest streams, even more lakes and thousands of marshes. There are more fishing spots than there is time to go fishing in all these magical locations. But the mission of finding your own spot and special place isn’t impossible. Most of the time all you need to do is ask at the nearest petrol station, sports shop, supermarket, anywhere that sells fishing licences or at the Tourist information. In Swedish Lapland we always want to help you. Listed on the right are the e-mail addresses of all our tourist information offices. You can buy nearly all the fishing licences you need at www.fiskekort.se.

And for the vast mountain regions there’s also a special permit for many of the secluded waters in the mountain areas.

From the municipality of Sorsele in the south to the northernmost part of Kiruna there’s plenty of beautiful fishing, in lakes and streams above the tree line. To get the permit, Statens vatten ovan odlingsgränsen, please visit www.natureit.se.

It’s easy to reach Swedish Lapland. There are as many as six airports in the region: Pajala, Kiruna, Gällivare, Luleå, Arvidsjaur and Skellefteå. Trains also run to the destination: the main line and Inlandsbanan. There’s always the car option, of course.

The main European roads, E45, E4 and E10 cross our region and form a network with other large roads. But always keep in mind – the adventure begins where the road ends.

tourist information Arjeplog: turist@arjeplog.se Arvidsjaur: arvidsjaurlappland@arvidsjaur.se Boden: info@upplevboden.nu Gällivare: info@gellivarelapland.se Jokkmokk: info@destinationjokkmokk.se Haparanda: info@haparandatornio.com Kalix: turistinfo@kalix.se Kiruna: info@kirunalapland.se Luleå: turistbyra@lulea.se Pajala: info@heartoflapland.com Piteå: visit@pitea.se Skellefteå: info@visitskelleftea.se Sorsele: turist@sorsele.se Älvsbyn: turistinfo@alvsbyn.se Överkalix: info@heartoflapland.com Övertorneå: info@heartoflapland.com

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MIDNIGHT SUN IN THE SUMMER

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Welcome to Sweden’s northernmost destination!

In Swedish Lapland you will find unique arctic experiences. Thanks to the warm Gulf Stream, here high up by the Arctic Circle, you can experience seasons with great contrasts between polar nights with sparkling northern lights in a white winter landscape and warm summers filled with swimming and hundred days without night under the midnight sun.

In the east – a 300-km coastal stretch facing the world’s largest brackish water archipelago, with thousands of islands. Sandy beaches, fishing camps and unique produce. In the west – vast mountains, brooks with water so clean you can drink from them and lots of adventures around the corner.

In between the quiet, enigmatic, open-handed forest and river valleys from Skellefte River in the south to Torne River in the north-east, all with their unique distinctive characteristics to offer.

Traditions and cultures are strong here, and love of nature is even stronger. This is our everyday-life, and we invite you to share it with us. www.swedishlapland.com

DISCOVER MORE: www.facebook.com/swedishlapland instagram: swedishlapland twitter: @swedishlapland www.swedishlapland.com

Idea, text & graphic design: Swedish Lapland Visitors Board • Illustrations: Lisa Wallin, Meramedia • Cover photo: Stefan Ågren • www.swedishlaplandvisitorsboard.com

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