Destinations of Swedish Lapland Skellefteå summer 2015 ENG

the destinations of

SWE DI SH LAPLAND

SWEDEN’S NORTHERNMOST DESTINATIONS

summer/autumn 2015

Byske River

The

Salmon fishing for real, breathtaking whitewater rafting & spectacular nature

fabulous summer bathing

Long, sandy beaches & sun-drenched rocky outcrops

summer shopping:

Exciting meeting places in the centre of town

alL! c o l t a E IPS FOR LOCA OUR T CE, DINING PRODU LIGHT AND S HMENT REFRES

Welcome to Skellefteå!

Close your eyes and imagine summer in Skellefteå. What colour do you see? Green? Blue, perhaps? Yellow, maybe? Or a soft, airy pink?

You probably see green if you’re thinking of bustling city life amid urban greenery that merges gently with a rolling woodland landscape.

Because here, nature is just as much around the corner from a city as the city is in the midst of nature.

If you see blue, you may be dreaming of our 1500 lakes and a 300-kilometre-long coastline with warm, soft, rocky outcrops and miles of sandy beaches.

Blue is also the colour of our summer sky, the mighty Skellefte River that intersects the town, or one of the three rushing, wild salmon rivers in the northern region of our destination Skellefteå.

Yellow, of course, conjures up images of lazy days on the beach, but also rays of sun that smile upon us for nearly 24 hours a day, robbing night of meaning.

Or is your mental image of Skellefteå veiled in a rosy shade of pink?

In that case, you’re head over heels in summer love.

You’ll fall for our public festivals. And our summer cafés will entice you to mild late-evenings of outdoor relaxation.

Not to mention a multitude of exciting activities and fabulous outings.

Pink is also the wild-strawberry colour of your favourite spot – a forgotten forest glade or a secret inlet that you just happen upon, somewhere along the coast; it’s yours for ever.

Come and paint your summer days with us!

Fabulous summer evenings on Skellefteå’s warm, rocky outcrops.

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Photo: Ted Logardt

Photo: Ted Logardt

The ship at Byske Havsbad.

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Photo: Adam Jonsson

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Photo: Ted Logardt

Adventure in the wilds to suit all tastes

Photo: Ted Logardt

Visit a LEGO enthusiast.

Summer festivities!

The best bathing spots around SkellefteĂĽ.

Photo: Paulina Holmgren

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Photo: Ted Logardt

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Photo: Ted Logardt

Photo: Ted Logardt

Contents 8

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Europe’s northernmost gelateria.

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Salmon adventure on the Byske River.

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Experience local cuisine.

more:

Archipelago 6 Family activities 10 Shopping 14 Experience nature 18 The story 22 Outings 24 Local produce 30 Accommodation 34 Contact 38

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ENJOY SUMMER IN THE ISLANDS OF

the Bay of Bothnia is farthest out in Skellefteå’s archipelago. There is no running water. No electricity. But a tour boat visits the island and seven beds are available in the pilot house and annex. Stand facing east and all you can see is the dark-blue waters of the Bay of Bothnia meeting the sky far out on the horizon. To say that this is a subarctic summer idyll is nothing short of an understatement.

“There can be few places more beautiful than Hamnskär to experience the Midnight Sun,” says Ulrika Rönnlund, Municipality of Skellefteå, who manages rentals on Hamnskär. The old pilot house has two beds and the annex has five. All beds can be booked.

Just bring drinking water and other provisions with you from the mainland. As mentioned, you’ll have to do without electricity. But many are convinced that that’s just what it takes for the ideal holiday. Unwind and relax.

“It’s a bit of an adventure. But if you take your own boat and discover you need something, the harbour café is just 10 minutes away” concludes Ulrika. the island hamnskär

More information about Skellefteå’s archipelago is available at www.visitskelleftea.se/hav

MUNKVIKEN – A SUMMER OASIS Great coffee, tea, soft drinks, sandwiches, buns, cookies, ice cream and sweets. Enjoy refreshments on the deck with a great view overlooking the sea! If you’re feeling active, test your skill on the climbing wall or head out to sea in a canoe.

Photo: Bergslagsbild

Photo: Anna Lindfors

Picturesque harbour cafés and other seaside suggestions

The café is on the mainland, at Furuögrundet, and is managed by Niklas Johansson. About 30 kilometres north of Skellefteå, and within walking distance from Byske Havsbad.

“We’ve only been in business for three summers, but the response has been fantastic,” says Niklas.

The concept, featuring seafood served in a maritime setting, partly explains why the number of guests increased from 2,000 in the first season to nearly 50,000 in summer 2014.

“Our Baltic herring with mashed potato was a real hit,” says Niklas. Although many take the mainland route to Furuögrunds Hamncafé, it has also become a popular landing for boaters.

“Boaters really appreciate great watering holes along the coast. We have even had visitors from Finland.”

BJURÖKLUBB – EVERYTHING IN ONE PLACE Nature reserve, sandy beach, popular summer café, fascinating history and an incredible view. Yes, Bjuröklubb has much to offer. And it’s easy to reach. Pause for refreshments at the old lighthouse or rent a picnic blanket and find your own secluded spot. And you can stay overnight at the lighthouse, but be sure book in advance.

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Photo: Jonas Westling

ARCHIPELAGO TAXI

Photo: Jonas Westling

Photo: Johan Gunséus

Hamnskär – barren, exposed to the elements and spectacular.

Book via Byske Havsbad.

If you don’t have a boat of your own, you can still experience Skellefteå’s archipelago. No problem!

Take the tour boat taxi, Kinnbäck 1, out to the archipelago in the Bay of Bothnia. www.skelleftea.se/turbat

GUEST HARBOURS AND MARINAS IN SKELLEFTEÅ’S ARCHIPELAGO LOTS TO DO AT KÅGE HAMNCAFÉ The harbour café is easy to reach, just 10 km north of Skellefteå.

Not only can you stop here for a coffee break or an ice cream, you can even rent a sea kayak, build LEGO or try stand up paddling (so-called SUP). Cabin rafts also available for overnight accommodation.

At guest harbours, boaters can dock temporarily for a small fee. At the marinas, you can tank up on drinking water and fuel.

There are also toilets, showers and waste containers.

Skellefteå has guest harbours at Furuögrund, Bjuröklubb, Bureå, Kåge and Kurjoviken. More information about boating in the islands of the Bay of Bothnia can be found at www.bottenvikensskargard.se

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Photo: Ted Logardt

SOME DAYS HAVE TO BE

spent in the water

o n e t h i n g i s c e rta i n , if you visit Skellefteå in the summer, there is no shortage of great alternatives if you’re in the mood for a cooling dip. We have 1,500 lakes, 300 kilometres of coastline and several heated outdoor pools.

Although many fabulous bathing spots are not on the map per se, Skellefteå’s long, sandy beaches, warm, rocky outcrops and pleasant temperatures make it a great destination for sun worshippers and bathers.

Pack a picnic basket, grab a towel and a parasol, and head for a secluded bay or lake where you can relax, all on your own. Or take a football, a beach ball or sandcastle-building tools to one of the popular beaches along the coast. You don’t need much, as long as the sun is shining and the water is cool.

Whether you’re floating dreamily on an air mattress at Bovikens Havsbad, careening down a flume ride at Byske Havsbad, playing with the kids at Vitbergsbadet or just dipping your toes in the water off the dock in downtown Skellefteå, it’s the same wonderful sensation. Summer and lazy days that never seem to end. Just jump in – or, at least, dip a toe or two!

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Photo: Ted Logardt

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TIPS FOR OUS I R O L G ER SUMM G BATHIN Byscaya Café – at Byske Havsbad, where you can refresh yourself with ice cream and soft drinks.

1,500 lakes, 300 kilometres of coastline and several heated outdoor pools – the choice is yours!

Photo: Camilla Öjhammar

Find more fabulous, sandy beaches, sea baths and heated outdoor and indoor pools at www.visitskelleftea.se

Photo: Ted Logardt

Byske havsbad – right beside 5-star camping at Byske Havsbad. Complete with a long, sandy beach, heated pool and water slides.

Bovikens havsbad – sea baths close to town and a real favourite among Skellefteå residents.

Storsand – Västerbotten’s longest beach, right in the middle of Bjuröklubb nature reserve. Enormous and with loads of sand and plenty of space for everyone.

Vitbergsbadet – water park in Skellefteå, with lots of great attractions. Also, a kiosk and snack bar.

Falkträsket – The local residents’ “own” lake, very close to town. Just three kilometres from downtown Skellefteå.

Fun-filled Vitbergsbadet, right next to Skellefteå Camping.

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Photo: Krister Hägglund

Photo: Ted Logardt

Fun for the kids SKELLEFTEÅ FOR CHILDREN i f t h e k i d s h av e f u n ,

the parents are happy – that’s the truth, especially in summer. And Skellefteå has it all, both for kids and parents.

In addition to sun, sand and sea, there are plenty of super-cool activities – indoors and out.

Children can enjoy everything from an educational visit to Skellefteå Museum to thrilling rides at one of Europe’s most modern karting tracks – and everything in between. visitskelleftea.se/familj

Tips for bathing? No worries, find them on page 9.

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Kids’ summer at Nordanå Here, children and adults can challenge their own creativity together under the guidance of Nordanå’s instructors. Skellefteå’s culture centre arranges a range of weekly theme activities based on storytelling, crafts, visual arts, history and archival material.

Activities are free of charge for children of all ages accompanied by a parent. Outdoors at Nordanå (indoors in the event of rain).

Open 23/6–12/9, Tuesday–Thursday 13–15. www.skellefteamuseum.se DE ST I NAT I ONS OF SW E DI S H L A PL A ND S KEL L EFTEÅ

Photo: Skellefteå ridklubb

Leos Lekland is like a dream for all those who love to play indoors. Masses of space to play on three floors, with hanging bridges, ball pens, tunnels, slides and many other challenges, as well as a mini playland for tiny tots. The café has a child-friendly menu and the cosy parents’ lounge features, among other amenities, TV and wireless broadband.

Open daily 10–19. www.leoslekland.se

Skellefteå Karting Arena

sted e g g u S s for e iti v acti ole h w e h t family

Saddle up and ride!

This summer, try your hand at horseback riding with Skellefteå Ridklubb. No need to book in advance. Ridhusgatan 12, Skellefteå.

29/6–31/7, Wednesdays 10–12. www.skerid.se

Photo: Skellefteå Motorsällskap

Skellefteå Karting Arena, one of Europe’s most modern go-kart arenas, even has separate track for youngsters. Skellefteå Karting Arena has rental karts and arranges training and test driving, where you can meet other drivers. The arena also has most of the facilities you need for the ideal conference. The café serves burgers, hot dogs, buns, coffee, soft drinks, sweets and ice cream.

Opening hours are posted at www.skelleftea-ms.se

Photo: Ted Logardt

Photo: Ted Logardt

Leos Lekland

Challenging Boda Borg

Photo: Ted Logardt

Experience a real-world gaming environment at this former battle command centre. Here’s what you do at Boda Borg. Open a door. Behind a door is a challenge; four challenges make a Quest. Success in the first challenge means entry into the next challenge and so on. That’s the essence of Boda Borg. Ideal for group or family activities. www.bodaborg.se

Lilleputtlandet A summer park with lots of fun for the kids. Some thirty different activities include a traffic town, Wild West town, treasure hunt, cinema barn and Indian path. Special programmes daily, where you can meet Gnagus – Trolle’s new friend. Open 22/6–2/8, 11–17 (closed Fridays). www.lilleputtlandet.se 11

LEGO, that’s the life!

Text and photo: Ted Logardt

Some think LEGO is only for children. But that’s not quite true. Skellefteå is home to Sweden’s biggest collection of LEGO. Of course, children are welcome, but an adult perspective is at least as important.

The first thing see is the Millennium Falcon. Han Solo’s characteristic smuggler ship from the early Star Wars trilogy and one of LEGO’s biggest commercial sets ever. Another is Hans Brettschneider’s broad smile.

“That is the jewel in the crown,” he says, grinning from ear to ear.

And he has good reason to be pleased. Not only is he owner of Skellefteå’s most dedicated LEGO shop, he is also the father of Sweden’s largest permanent LEGO collection. Just inside the door, a couple of hundred LEGO Star Wars figures are on display.

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“I’m missing a C3PO in 14 carat gold and a bronze Boba Fett. Otherwise, in one way or another, every Star Wars figure released by LEGO is represented in the collection.”

I think I see a few doubles. Hans takes down two Luke Skywalker figures from Return of the Jedi, both in black, with green swords.

“Check out the pupils.”

I can see difference. A very slight difference.

“Details are important to a collector,” he says.

And those pupils set the standard. I now realize that LEGO building isn’t just a casual pastime. This is serious business.

GREETINGS FROM BOBA FETT Everywhere, there are completed LEGO models.

Some standing on their own; others arranged in complete landscapes. I recognize the planets Hoth and Tatooine from the early Star Wars films, and DE ST I NAT I ONS OF SW E DI S H L A PL A ND S KEL L EFTEÅ

Helms Deep from the Lord of the Rings trilogy.

His interest in Star Wars and a family trip to Legoland, in Denmark, that brought out the LEGO builder in Hans. That was more than ten years ago.

“That was just before LEGO became trendy.”

Hans explains that the Millennium Falcon, which stands near the entrance, now costs between twenty-five and thirty thousand kronor. Little more than ten years ago the price was a reasonable six thousand.

“LEGO is a good investment,” he says, laughing.

My glance falls upon a signed picture of the coolest bounty hunter in the history of film. “To Hans”, it says. Underneath, it is signed by none other than Boba Fett. The sentimental value of such an object is obvious.

MORE THAN STAR WARS The LEGO scene is strong in Skellefteå. I’m guessing Hans’s shop has a lot to do with it. Many visitors from afar also come to view the LEGO collection.

“If you’re a serious LEGO builder and plan to travel north, you might want to make this a compulsory stopover,” says Hans.

And there’s no doubt about that. The oldest pieces in the collection are from the 1950s. Star Wars dominates, but there is plenty else besides. You’ll see everything from gigantic models of the Eiffel Tower and the Taj Mahal to obscure, limited-edition Japanese sets that were released on only a few markets. And the collection continues to grow.

OUT OF THE ORDINARY I wonder what makes LEGO so special.

“You know, when you build, you’re in the moment. All thoughts about everything else vanish. But there’s a difference between building and building,” explains Hans, as he wanders through the shop.

He stops at a glass display case.

“The water tower in Bastuträsk,” he says, pointing to the scale model.

LEGO is not just about following instructions.

It’s also a matter of giving yourself over totally to an enormous creativity. In this case, it is materialized in the model of the Bastuträsk water tower.

Hans lifts it out and dismantles the four sections.

“Everything is there,” he explains. “Water mains and even a bathtub.”

The builder is Johan, who works a couple of days a week for Hans. The project took three years to complete.

“Not full-time. Sometimes, a few pieces were missing and Johan had to search the web and order what he needed.”

The LEGO centre in Skellefteå is in many ways a monument to the boundless joy of creativity – a reason as good as any to come and see the collection, even if you’re not a LEGO freak.

Open Monday–Friday 11–18, Saturdays 11–15. www.hbadventure.se

The boundless joy of creativity manifested in a scale model of a water tower.

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Comfortable shoes, good company and many breaks

DISCOVER SKELLEFTEÅ’S MANY SHOPPING ALTERNATIVES shopping experience? Well, that’s a very subjective question.

Sometimes, it may be finding the right item or garment at a bargain price. Or being surprised to find something you never realized you needed or really wanted. But most will agree; a great shopping experience is always an interesting blend of this and that.

May we assume that you’re looking for wellknown retail chains with everything in stock, as well as unique boutiques with personable staff that go out of their way?

Okay, but what about places that invite spontaneous meetings with your shopping friends and others? Good; then we’ll add restaurants and indoor and outdoor cafés to our list of things that make for a great shopping experience. Everything from a simple café latte, to help keep you moving, to a fine-dining experience that rounds off a won-

derful day. Or, fill a picnic basket, grab a blanket and relax for a while in the park.

Because shopping demands lots of energy. Truly serious shoppers will confirm it. Brief pauses on your shopping rounds help only to a certain extent.

Sooner or later, you’ll have to take a real break. If you’re going to get the rest you deserve after all that shopping, it’s good to know that a bed is never far away. Of course the are comfortable as well.

Otherwise, how will you ever manage the next day? But what next?

So, you agree that a good variety of shops, boutiques, spontaneous meeting places and comfy beds are the recipe for a really rewarding summer shopping experience? Well then, we think you’ll have a wonderful time in Skellefteå this summer.

We put the icing on the cake, with a pleasant atmosphere, helpful people and easy distances.

Happy shopping!

Photo: Patrick Degerman

w h at m a k e s f o r a r e a l ly fa b u lo u s

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Photo: Ted Logardt

Friendly places meeting own in downt å Skellefte

Afternoon tea, dainty sandwiches, scones and sweet treats. Society is the café with an English touch, home-cooked meals, fresh-baked bread and authentic scones baked by the café’s very own dyed-in-the-wool Englishman.

See our lists of restaurant and accommodation alternatives on pages 38 and 40.

Photo: Megafonen

Society Café

Ingmar Inredning Photo: Ted Logardt

Skellefteå’s premier interior design boutique. Here, you’ll find old, new and bespoke, handcrafted items in all colours, shapes and sizes. Ingmar is the interior design boutique with that little extra.

Brygg club & café

Photo: Ted Logardt

A café with an ecological theme that serves only home-baked goods, and a club for all ages with a pleasant vibe, delightful music and yummy drinks. Here, they even serve super-fresh beers directly from the fermenting tanks at local microbrewery Kallholmens bryggeri.

Sport City The outdoor outfitter that offers quality and a personal selection from leading brands. Renowned for knowledgeable staff and good service, Sport City has an eye for detail and is pleased to meet your every need when it comes to outdoor-leisure gear.

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Photo: Ted Logardt

Magic summer night in i Skellefteå, Swedish Lapland.

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Kalvträsk of barely forty.

There is a general store and a museum, Kalfträsks Historiska, which is dedicated to the world’s oldest wooden ski, the Kalvträsk ski. The ski is 5,200 years old. That makes it older than both the Hanging Gardens of Babylon and the pyramids of Egypt.

Here the sense of being close to the wilderness is palpable, which probably has a lot to do with the fact that Kalvträsk is on the edge of Vitbergen, the region’s largest nature reserve. Here, the forest has been left largely untouched by human hand and, although deep and dense, it is easily accessible.

There are some 30 kilometres of hiking trails. They are well maintained and lead right out into the wetlands. In fact, they are so well maintained that you can cycle on them. k a lv t r ä s k h a s a p o p u l at i o n

– IN THE MIDST OF NATURE

At the top of Vitberget is a 7-metre-high lookout tower. Climbing this old fire lookout takes you well up above the treetops – if you dare. The panoramic view is magnificent. Far below, in the mist-shrouded forest spread out before you while the evening sun is reflected off tranquil lakes and ponds.

It may sound extraordinary but really, it isn’t. It’s just a normal summer evening in the woodlands around Kalvträsk.

Or, may we suggest a canoe trip along the many winding streams in the area? Kalvträsk also offers authentic wilderness accommodation. The log cabins have kitchens and toilets, and there is a wellequipped service building. Yes, here, you’ll find everything you need for the ideal adventure outing right in the middle of the mighty forest.

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Photo: Conny Lundström

Read more at www.kalvtrask.se/en/

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Photo: Conny Lundström

Dogsledding on bare ground

Traditional crayfishing

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Photo safari in Kalvträsk

In Vitbergen nature reserve, where the enchanted Boreal forests still grow proud and tall, you can join wildlife photographer Conny Lundström on a photo safari– on foot or by canoe. Glide silently along Vitbergen’s waterways or hike deep into the heart of nature. Book in advance. www.connylundstrom.com

NATURE ADVENTURES YOU CAN’T MISS

In August the bright summer nights give way to autumn’s darkness. But that’s something that many welcome. At least if you like crayfishing, which is a time-honoured Swedish tradition. In Forsbacka you can experience both crayfishing and enjoy an authentic crayfish dinner.

Book in advance. www.swenature.se

Photo: Fritid Skellefteå

Photo: Ted Logardt

Dogsledding in late summer? When the heat of summer has passed, eager huskies, woodland trails and specially made ‘sleds’ on wheels are all you need to experience one of winter’s highlights during the off-season. Book in advance. www.rascalhuskies.se

Photo: Ted Logardt

Cross-country on two wheels The Skellefteå region has mile after mile of quiet rural and woodland roads, and there is a mountainbike trail at Vitberget, not far from town. In other words, perfect conditions for MTB. Professional cycle guides from Tidy Event adapt biking tours to your individual level of ability. Vitberget also has an MTB trail.

Book in advance. vwww.tidy.se 19

Photo: Ted Logardt Photo: Ted Logardt

More ness wilder ures t n e v d a RIDE NORTH SWEDISH HORSES IN THE WOODLAND Meet the subarctic woodlands on horseback at Caribo.

Together with the camp’s guides, novices and expert riders will experience that special collaboration between the North Swedish horse and rider as they follow forgotten trails. Riding and trails are adapted according to individual level of skill and experience. www.caribo.se

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Meet the wilderness

IN SVANSELE

t h e wo o d e n b r i d g e that spans the tiny stream may be very sturdy, but it is also very narrow. It’s just wide enough to accommodate a quad bike.

“Yes, you have to have your wits about you,” says Thorbjörn Holmlund, smiling.

The woman on the quad is from England. She creeps slowly across the bridge, metre for metre, all the while checking the position of the wheels relative to the edge of the bridge. All goes well.

“No problem,” says Thorbjörn, giving the woman an encouraging pat on the shoulder.

Quad bikes can be ridden in the deep woods around Svansele, at Vildmarkscentret wich is managed by Thorbjörn Holmlund.

“This is really fun,” says the woman on the quad. Judging by her ear-to-ear smile, there can be no doubt that she means it.

In Svansele, in addition to riding four-wheelers, you can also visit one of Sweden’s biggest wilderness museums. With 11 rooms, it covers 1,800 square metres. Virtually all subarctic animals are represented, i.e., nearly 600 species including bear, wolf and lynx. All are presented in life-like settings.

Now, back to the woman on the quad. Beaming, she gives her colleague the thumbs up. He, too, has made it across the bridge.

“On to the wilderness exhibit,” says Thorbjörn, gesturing towards a rough trail.

The quad bikes roll easily across the sandy, pine-covered heath. At the exhibit, lunch is waiting. A wilderness buffet. Moose, reindeer and char.

Potatoes, vegetables, preserves and lingenberry juice. And real ‘cowboy coffee’, of course. All prepared over an open fire.

“In the summer, you can eat like this every day of the week,” says Thorbjörn, stirring the pots of stew. A cycle tour is planned for the afternoon. The guests also hope to do some fishing on the river.

“It would be fun to catch a pike,” says the women while Thorbjörn fills up a wooden cup with coffee. Besides outdoor activities and wilderness food, Svansele also offers accommodation. Recently built, Knutes Hotell is well appointed and commands a beautiful view over the Skellefte River.

WHITEWATER RAFTING ON THE BYSKE RIVER

BYGDSILJUMS BIKE PARK

Photo: Erland Segerstedt

Photo: Byske Äventyr

Svansele Vildmarkscenter is open daily, 11–18, during the period 21/6–16/8, when the famous wilderness buffet is always on the menu.

With a vertical drop of 295 metres in total and the rivers’ steepest gradient, downstream from Fällfors, Byske Äventyr takes you and your friends on the adventure of a lifetime when you challenge the untamed rapids of the Byske River. The whitewater rafting season is from mid-May until the end of September. Regular tours, Saturdays at 10, throughout the season. Book in advance.

Downhill biking is thrilling, challenging and guaranteed to put a crazy smile on your face. Try something that you never would have believed was possible! Bygdsiljums Bike Park has eight trails.

Rough terrain for those who are ready for a real challenge, as well as easier trails for downhill beginners. Equipment available for rent.

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A place tells a story – and you’re a part of it Text and photo: Ted Logardt

Burträsk is alive with stories and storytellers.

A good place to start is the visitors’ centre at the home of Västerbottensosten.

I turn off Rd.364 into a parking area near Lappvattnet. The lake, Burträsket, is totally calm.

Everything is eerily silent. On the other side stands Burträsk’s church. I fantasize about stripping down and swimming across the lake, over to the church where, in the late 1600s, soldier Abraham Pedersson broke in and stole the money and silver from the parish. Apprehended, Pedersson, was the first of several felons whose fates were sealed under the executioner’s axe at the nearby Lappvattsheden execution grounds. That was more than 300 years ago. Stories like that are never forgotten.

THE HOUSE THAT SANK I roll up my trouser legs and take a few tentative steps into the lake. This is probably not a good idea, I say to myself. Swimming, that is. I retreat. Slipping, I break my fall with my right hand, getting soaked to the crook of my arm. It isn’t deep. But it’s cold. In one way or another it is the same water that froze to form the ice across which Karl Sigurd and Jenny Wikström pulled their huge house on Easter weekend in 1949. Karl Sigurd had decided that they would move the house across Burträsket, from Risnäs to the village. To Burträsk, that is.

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The ice probably moaned under that great load back in 1949. Then it gave way. There, in the slush and ice, the house got stuck. Then it sunk. It was April 22nd, Albertina’s Day. Since that day, the house has been known as Albertina. But that was after she sank.

Before the move she probably didn’t have a name.

Leaving the scene, I return to the car and head for the Västerbottenost visitors’ centre. Waiting there is Agneta Karlsson. My right sleeve is still wet. And cold.

THE PLACE THAT MAKES THE CHEESE Dairy maid Ulrika Eleonora grew up in a foster home in the nearby village of Lappvattnet. She invested the inheritance from her foster parents in her education and eventually did something that would change Burträsk for many years to come.

“You know,” says Agneta, greeting me at the visitors’ centre, “the story behind the cheese is really the story of this place and its people. It has to do with how the living conditions and the cultural landscape form and change. No one knows for certain what happened the day when the cheese was born. Maybe Ulrika Eleonora was experimenting with the curdling, or maybe she was under stress.

Or maybe a suitor distracted her attention,” Agneta speculates. “Ulrika Eleonora never married, but that doesn’t mean that there wasn’t a man in her life. Or a woman, for that matter.”

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THE MEANING OF A PLACE Agneta serves up coffee and buns. She tells of the comet debris that is said to have crashed into Burträsket and, in all likelihood, gave rise to the conditions that created the calcium-rich soil that is characteristic of Burträsk.

“The fact is that all milk used in the making of Västerbotten cheese comes from cows that graze within a radius of eighty kilometres. So, in this case, the place is directly decisive. Comet or no comet.”

Agneta also tells of the RPB Piraya, a sports car with a fibreglass body and gull-wing doors, 70 of which were built in Burträsk. The year was 1968.

She also tells us the story of how author and lawyer Henning Sjöström once visited Burträsk for a book-signing. Accompanying him in his Rolls Royce was world champion boxer, Ingemar Johansson.

“It was his début book, Vägen från byn, from 1963, and there was a great to-do.”

I gaze out through the enormous window. Out there, stories are now taking shape, I surmise. And this place is the backdrop.

“If your origins are in a place, whether you like it or not, you’ll become part of its story,” concludes Agneta. And one of the storytellers of that place.

Wherever you go in the world.

Sometimes, I think, a place means nothing; but sometimes it means everything.

Several famous authors who found inspiration in the Skellefteå area:

P-O Enquist Sara Lidman Torgny Lindgren Birger Vikström Nikanor Teratologen Anton Marklund Anita Salomonsson Kurt Salomonsson

Västerbottensost’s visitors’ centre is open daily, 10–17, during the period 15/5–13/9. www.vasterbottensost.com/burtrask 23

Pay a visit

TO THE MARKSTEDT FAMILY’S YOUNG SKELLEFTEÅ to step down into Sara Lidman’s Cloudberry Land, wander freely amid P O Enquist’s childhood memories or visit the Markstedt family’s young Skellefteå? This summer* you’ll have a chance to do the latter, when Skellefteå Museum tells the story from the beginning – of the town of Skellefteå and how it came to be.

During the 1800s Skellefteå and the area around the Bay of Bothnia was a major centre of shipbuilding in Europe. At that time, the Markstedt family made a fortune from pine tar, and owned both shipyards and sawmills in Skellefteå and the surrounding area. The upper middle classes in the fledgling town of Skellefteå, founded in 1845, did their best to assume an air of urbanity. They hosted soirées and balls in elegant salons. Visitors to the town were agitated by their excesses and of how “the residents of Skellefteå have adopted Gothenburg mannerisms and wear kid gloves in the fashion of Sundsvall.”

Skellefteå Museum is located at the Nordanå cultural heritage centre. Life here is characterized in equal measure by urban greenery and the wings of history. In addition to fascinating, surprising and inspiring cultural heritage displays, the museum building at Nordanå also has a delightful shop and café.

Here, you will also find Bonnstan, a church village dating from the 1600s, and the museum’s picturesque general store.

And if all that history makes you hungry, we recommend a visit to the inn, right next to Nordanå, or the popular waffle café at charming Kyrkholmen. All this makes a full-day outing to Nordanå one of the highlights of the summer.

For opening hours and more information, visit www.skellefteamuseum.se *) Exhibition open 14/6–13/9.

Photo: Ted Logardt

w h at wo u l d i t b e l i k e

BONNSTAN This church village dating from the1600s is known locally as Bonnstan. Many of the 116 timber cottages, with 392 rooms in all, are more than 150 years old. Bonnstan is in every respect a living church village.

Here, a market is held every Saturday throughout the summer. www.bonnstan.se 24

DE ST I NAT I ONS OF SW E DI S H L A PL A ND S KEL L EFTEÅ

Photo: Lars-Eric Ståhl

M o re tips for outings

FINNFORS KRAFTVERKSMUSEUM

RISMYRLIDEN Rismyrliden, a farmstead built in 1825, is one of the region’s most-loved destinations. A visit to Rismyrliden is a glance through a door to the past. In summer the farm is inhabited by members of local cultural heritage association Stödföreningen Rismyrlidens Vänner.

Here at the farm you’ll have a chance to join in various activities, or simply enjoy the beautiful surroundings.

Open 28/6–29/8, Monday–Sunday 10–18. www.rismyrliden.se

Photo: Skellefteå Kraft Photo: Mikael Långström

Photo: Rismyrliden

Each summer this popular café, renowned for its prawn sandwiches, attracts nearly 70,000 guests to the shores of the Skellefte River. Ride here, to Stackgrönnan, along the scenic cycle path that follows the river. www.cafekajutan.se

Photo: Skråmträsk kvarn

CAFÉ KAJUTAN

In 1908 a brand-new power station at Finnforsfallet came into operation. It was the first of Skellefteå’s major hydropower projects on the Skellefte River. Today, more than a century later, the old power station is still intact, complete with generators, instruments and turbines. Guided tours 12.15 and 14.15 daily.

Visit nearby Café Finnfors and let the kids experiment at Teknikboa. Open 22/6–9/8, Monday–Sunday 12–16.

SKRÅMTRÄSK KVARN

WESTMANS CAFÉ & BAR

ÅNGSÅGEN I DRÄNGSMARK

This old mill, with its unique atmosphere, has been lovingly restored and now houses a summer café in an authentic mill setting dating from the 1940s. Visitors are free to stroll around and look at the old machines that have been preserved in original condition. The café serves great coffee and organic home-baked goods. Organic flour, produced in the mini-mill, is also sold. Open 13/6–16/8, Monday–Sunday 11–21. www.skramtrask.se

This classic destination in Bygdsiljum has attracted hungry guests since the 1930s.

A delightfully green and pleasant outdoor café with free-range peacocks. www.westmanscafe.se

Drängsmark is the site of a steam-powered sawmill dating from 1896. A heritage site, this is the Nordic region’s, and probably Europe’s, only functioning steam-power sawmill.

The café serves light lunches and ice cream, and there is a local heritage museum, blacksmith’s, saltpetre shed, boules court and more. Boules for rent during the café’s opening hours. www.drangsmark.se

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Photo: Adam Jonsson

Public festivals SUMMER SKELLEFTEÅ IN HIGH SPIRITS

Summer events calendar 23/5–22/8 Bonnstan Market

Saturdays 10–14. An old-fashioned market in Skellefteå’s church village, Bonnstan. Every Saturday, all summer long, Bonnstan is filled with tradition.

13/6 Joypeak

Family festival where everything is free (except the food). A festival in a drugfree environment.

14/6 Fallets dag 11.30

Fallets dag, Waterfalls Day, is a real family day, with music, activities, a quiz walk and a thundering release of water from the reservoir. Café Finnfors serves home-baked goods for all tastes.

15/6 and 17/8 Tai chi and qigong

17.30 and 18.30, respectively. Kids’ summer training at Nordanå. Everyone’s welcome to join in free of charge.

20/6 Midnattstravet 19.00

Skellefteåtravet holds a classic midnight harness racing event on Midsummer Day. An event under the bright summer night sky that attracts many spectators each year. For the children, jumping and pony rides.

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20/6 Midsummer at Bonnstan Traditional Swedish Midsummer celebrations at Bonnstan.

3–5/7 Nordic Light beach soccer

In collaboration with Västerbottens Football association, Skellefteå FF arranges Northern Sweden’s coolest beach event.

10/7 Norway Day

Skellefteå puts on a fabulous family day for our Norwegian guests. Contests and fun activities for the kids in downtown Skellefteå.

18/7 Norrlandsveckan – Norrland Week. Interest in motor sports is big in

northern Sweden, as the arrangers of Rallycrosscirkusen well know. The peak of summer marks the highlight of the season, the finals at Skellefteå Motorstadion.

26–29/7 and 1/8 Nordic Dog Race Championship

Hold on to your hat and just watch them run! Speed, excitement, action, great food and beverages. You could be a winner! A day of fun for the whole family.

8/8 & 25–26/9 Lövånger Harvest Market 10–15

10–12/7 Burträsksvängen, Folk music gathering

During Burträsksvängens Spelmansstämma, small jam sessions take high priority.

Dance courses, concerts and much more.

10–12/7 Villvattskampen

Norrland’s biggest horse and carriage driving event – fast and elegant. Food, shopping, pony rides and other activities.

17–19/7 Gold Town Drag Race

An annual motor sports event that attracts a huge crowd and an impressive starting field. The eternal question is: who’s fastest on the quarter mile?

Local growers and producers sell their products. Potatoes, vegetables, homebaked bread, honey, mushrooms, fish, smoked pork, preserves, juices, marmalade, berries, eggs and much more.

11/9 Sagofesten

Welcome to a fabulous fairytale festival at Nordanå – with play, the joy of creativity and adventure.

Skellefteå is bursting with summer events, so don’t forget to check the calendar at www.visitskelleftea.se

DE ST I NAT I ONS OF SW E DI S H L A PL A ND S K EL L EFTEÅ

This five-day event, one of northern Sweden’s biggest, attracts nearly 100,000 visitors each year. Festival days filled with shows by some of Swedish most popular artists, fairground rides and market stands.

27/6–28/6

Church weekend in Bonnstan A traditional church weekend dating from the days when churchgoing was obligatory. Worshippers from afar came to the church village not only to attend church, but also to buy and sell produce and handcrafted items. Nowadays, the church weekend is more relaxed and Bonnstan comes alive with visitors.

Photo: skellefteaonline.se

Stadsfesten

Photo: Ted Logardt

24/6–28/6

13/6–12/7

Summer’s great adventure!

Trästockfestivalen This is one of Sweden’s five-biggest music festivals. Here, you’ll still find exciting new music, as well as many old favourites, and admission is free. Great music doesn’t have to cost a lot. www.trastockfestivalen.se

27/8–30/8

Matfesten i Skellefteå - Skellefteå Food Festival Welcome to northern Sweden’s biggest food event – a four-day festival for foodies in Skellefteå. Stroll around and enjoy a world of flavours and aromas. Find your lunch at the meal market, buy local produce at the harvest market, and then head for a local eatery in the evening. Meet chefs and food personalities together with family and friends.

All this and more, as Matfesten celebrates its 10th anniversary. A public favourite that gets better each year, offering even more locally seasoned food culture. www.matfesteniskelleftea.se

Photo: Camilla Öjhammar

17–18/7

Photo: Trästockfestivalen

This year’s summer theatre production is a musical at Nordanå. Nearly thirty actors, magnificent music and scenography take us back to Paris in the 1400s. French author Victor Hugo’s most famous work, The Hunchback of Notre Dame, is one of the most fascinating tales from the1800s. Producer: Eva Gröndahl. www.vasterbottensteatern.se

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Photo: Paulina Holmgren

Beef tartar and fillet of beef, signed Bryggargatan Bistro & Bar.

Enjoy! of our natural flavours. They have their origins in pristine nature, where the ingredients have been allowed to grow and mature. On their own terms.

Thousands of years ago, the Sami laid the foundations for our culinary traditions. Pots filled with good things from nature simmered over the fire.

Of course, reindeer was one of them. And moose, naturally. Fowl such as ptarmigan and grouse; fish such as grayling, salmon, trout, char and whitefish. In the summer, our table was set with dishes made with berries and wild herbs, roots and other edible plants full of vitamins and minerals.

Our characteristic ingredients contain all the distinctive flavours of an open cultural landscape, wetlands and deep forests. It may be deep-fried reindeer lichen accompanied by lightly smoked reindeer tartar at one of Skellefteå’s top restaurants. Another time, on a shop shelf, you might find a jar of fresh honey, produced by Skelleftehamn’s hard-working bees. Sometimes, it can be as simple as a handful of ripe blueberries, picked straight from a bush in the forest. Or a decadently big piece of regal Västerbotten cheese savoured under the midnight sun, on a picnic spread out on a secluded outcrop.

Fresh, pure nature is what gives all of our natural flavours their intensity – and they heighten your experience of Skellefteå.

On the next page, you’ll find suggestions for restaurants where your can savour a little bit of Skellefteå and Swedish Lapland. w e a r e v e ry p ro u d

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Photo: Paulina Holmgren

BRYGGARGATAN BISTRO & BAR

Photo: Ted Logardt

Bryggargatan’s ambition is to present delightful, wellprepared dining experiences inspired mainly by northern Swedish and Icelandic flavours and ingredients. Bryggargatan complements these with personal favourites, partly from classical French cuisine, but also with influences from the rest of the world – Europe and America, as well as Asia.

Strandgatan 32 www.bryggargatan.se

r u o F

SVANSELE WILDERNESS BUFFET Svansele Vildmarkscenter serves its renowned wilderness buffet throughout the summer. A rustic kitchen with a menu that includes reindeer, moose and char, as well as potatoes, vegetables, preserves and lingonberry juice.

Photo: Ted Logardt

RESTAURANTS WITH A TASTE OF SWEDISH LAPLAND

STIFTSGÅRDEN

Photo: Camilla Öjhammar

At Stiftsgården, the focus is on dining. With a foundation in Swedish traditional fare, the dining experience is as authentic as the manor house itself. Dishes are prepared from selected ingredients from the best local producers. Quality, pure flavours and local are the watchwords. Menus are seasonal and the wine list follows suit.

Brännavägen 25 • www.stiftsgarden.se

RESTAURANG NYGATAN 57 Restaurang Nygatan 57 has a simple philosophy that finds its starting point in a well-stocked pantry: the forests, fields, lakes and fells in our surroundings. A well-reputed kitchen selects everything carefully, according to season, and the best ingredients are lovingly prepared to give guests an uncomplicated but memorable culinary experience.

Nygatan 57 www.nygatan57.se 29

Photo: Ted Logardt

g e l at o i s i ta l i a n f o r i c e c r e a m .

An authentic gelateria WITH REGIONAL FLAVOURS

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And Italian ice cream is in many ways very different from the conventional ice cream you find in the freezer display at your grocery store.

“Gelato has a softer texture and the flavour is more distinctive,” says Hans-Jörgen Ramstedt at Alhems Trädgård, carefully pouring the mixture into the large machine.

Additives are banned and presentation is vital. Furthermore, gelato is served at a somewhat higher temperature than ordinary ice cream.

“Structure and consistency are very important. That’s why you never whip a lot of air into it. Sure, a scoop of gelato costs more than a scoop of conventional ice cream but, considering the amount of ice cream per scoop, there isn’t much difference.

Gelato is mostly milk-based, which gives it, among other things, a lower fat content.

“A good batch is the secret to a perfect gelato,” explains Hans-Jörgen. “It’s a matter of balancing the ingredients. Small variations in the recipe can make a big difference.”

Hans-Jörgen carefully folds out the finished ice cream into steel containers, forming dramatic mountain landscapes. And then there’s the presentation. When it comes to gelato, there are, of course, classic favourite flavours.

“Pistachio is one,” says Hans-Jörgen, “Stracciatella is another. “But we get our inspiration and ingredients from the surrounding area. Naturally, we use organic milk from local farms and when my aunt brings fresh wild raspberries, we put them in the gelato as well.”

Another rather unexpected flavour is Västerbotten cheese.

“Västerbotten cheese works perfectly,” says Hans-Jörgen. “In the gelato, it’s our answer to the Italians’ mascarpone.”

Gelato is served to eager guests at Alhems trädgård from mid-May to the end of August.

And the whole concept, including a wonderful garden atmosphere and authentic gelato, will be available in central Skellefteå. In other words, the time is right for a real ice cream summer.

DE ST I NAT I ONS OF SW E DI S H L A PL A ND S K EL L EFTEÅ

Kallholmen

– BREWED WITH PRIDE AND DETERMINATION

and microbreweries is here to stay. Swedish Lapland has no fewer than three producers who focus on smallscale brewing, and one of them is in Skellefteå.

Here, the main ingredients are passion and crystal-clear water.

Kallholmens Maltbryggeri began operating in 2011, after Joseph Krýsl, brewmaster from Pilsner Urquell, in the Czech Republic, helped founder Per Lundmark equip a brewery in Skelleftehamn, outside Skellefteå.

Even the brewing process has been inspired by the Czech tradition of removing a portion of the mash, heating it and returning it to the main mash.

Although this is a somewhat complicated procedure, many believe it results in a sweeter, more balanced beer.

“We usually say that we brew our beer with northern pride and determination. People here are probably stubborn by nature,” laughs Tord Pantzare, president of Kallholmen.

“It’s our way of saying that taste and craftsmanship are the most importantelements. We say our beer is ‘alive’, because it continues to develop in the bottle, since it is both unpasteurized and unfiltered.” i n t e r e s t i n lo c a l ly b r e w e d b e e r

Though not officially Sweden’s finest, Kallholmen did win golds in all categories at the Mid Sweden Beer & Whisky Festival in spring 2014. Festivalgoers voted Kallholmen beers best in the Lager, Ale and Stout classes. That touched the proud hearts of the brewers deeply.

Tord explains that they want to make a product that is as natural as possible and the focus is on using ingredients that are available locally.

“Close by, we have fantastic water, of course.

It’s a real luxury and one of chief advantages.

For a while we were using organic malts, but we soon realized that locally produced products were more sustainable, due to the transport factor.

That means we source most of our malt from northern Finland.”

Another interesting detail is that the draff, the spent malt, is sent to a pig farm and used as fodder. Before it starts to ferment, that is.

“We are passionate about brewing. But we are just as passionate when it comes to more people discovering really great beer and local produce.

And I think we are on the right track,” concludes Tord.

New brewery, nightclub and restaurant

Several shops with local produce

BURTRÄSK SALUHALL. The shop is owned by food producers from the Burträsk area. Here, you’ll find most of the products from rural Burträsk, but the shop also sells organic coffee, tea, herbs and spices.

Vasabrogatan 3 www.burtrasksaluhall.se

Photo: Kallholmen

In May 2015, Skellefteå will have a new landmark. Kallholmen is opening a whole new brewery on the shore of the river in central Skellefteå. Since demand has grown quickly, the idea is to make the product more readily available to visitors who are interested in the craft and want to taste good beer that is as fresh as it gets.

The new premises will consist of two buildings, one of which will house the brewery and visitors’ lounge, and the other will feature a restaurant/nightclub and café. Here, you can enjoy all of Kallholmen’s beers on tap, as well as a unique beer range served only on the premises.

HANDELSGÅRDEN. Run by 13 local women entrepreneurs. The range consists largely of locally handcrafted items.

Stationsgatan 12 www.handelsgarden.se

SKAFFERIET. Well-stocked shelves of delicacies from around the world, lots of selected organic products and, naturally, local producers are showcased.

Nygatan 57 www.nygatan57.se 31

Salmon fishing for real Text and photo: Ted Logardt

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The greatest joy is to return a wild salmon to a pristine northern river.

Skellefteå has three wild salmon rivers: The Kåge, Byske and Åby Rivers. On the Byske, in 2014, some 5,600 salmon passed the fish counter at Fällfors. Nearly 1,000 were caught, of which the largest, caught by Stefan Lundberg, measured 131 centimetres.

OTHER GREAT FISHING IN SKELLEFTEÅ: • The Kåge River – top-class sea trout fishing (spring and autumn).

• Stora Bygdeträsket – Västerbotten’s largest lake and a hotspot for big pike.

• Burträsket – a pike lake with one of the country’s northernmost pike-perch populations.

• Svartbäcksträsket – fly fishing lake with big, wild brown trout. www.visitskelleftea.se/fiske

There are three wild salmon rivers within 20 minutes of Skellefteå. You won’t find that elsewhere in Sweden.

Anders Cederberg does 97 percent of his salmon fishing on one of them – the Byske River. Why? For him, there is nothing finer than a Byske River salmon, shining like polished steel.

When I enter the angling supply shop where Anders works, the heat outside is oppressive The mercury has hit thirty-two Celsius and, by the look of him, something isn’t quite right. He’s anxious, as if he has a sick relative or a child who has gotten into trouble.

“It’s a disaster,” he says, referring to the water temperature in the Byske River.

Over 20 degrees, it is making life difficult for the salmon and the anglers. The salmon run of 2014 has been the best in years. But now, in a way, that just compounds the problem.

BACK IN THE DAY Anders has been at it from the start. Back then, there were only 13 active anglers along the river and there were considerably fewer salmon than there are today.

This year marks his thirtieth season on the river and much has happened in the past thirty years.

But his enthusiasm is just as great as ever.

“Today, of course, a lot of things are different.

Among other things, we are seeing both more fish and more fishermen, but the Byske spirit persists.”

It has to do with the fact that there were once few fish in this uncompromising and challenging river.

“Sometimes, if one of us had seen a salmon, the rest of us were thrilled. That set the tone for salmon fishing on the Byske, and in many ways, it is still the same.”

EARN YOUR SALMON Fishing the Byske is tough and often, painful.

Anders’s knee joints have been replaced and his back is held together with several pins.

Because of fishing, I wonder.

“You have to earn a Byske salmon. Often, it involves heavy fishing in cold, fast-moving earlyseason water. You have to have a hard forehead and an iron will. And you have to be brave, sometimes to the point of recklessness.”

When I ask what makes the Byske River special, he leans across the table as if he is about to reveal a secret.

“It has everything a fly fisherman could ask for.”

MARKED FOR LIFE Throughout the season, Anders works four hours a day in the local angling supply shop in Skellefteå.

Then, he fishes for at least twelve hours. He’s done that since 1985.

“In June, I often get about four hours of sleep each night”.

He is no longer young. Past 50. For his fortieth birthday he got a new tattoo: the motif – a special place on a special river.

“Yes, it’s Skogfors,” he says. It isn’t quite finished. And it hurt.”

Of course it hurts, it’s Swedish Lapland’s toughest salmon river.

He is a deeply, almost painfully, fanatical salmon fishmen who has been battered and bruised by the unforgiving Byske River.

Anders has three favourite spots:

HÄSTHAGEN, STENSJÖN. Fantastic fishing and a popular place where big fish are often caught. The fish are closer than you think Wade carefully.

BJURSELET. Norgesträckan in Bjurselet is a great, but little known spot. The best bites are at the bend in the river.

HOLMFORSNACKEN, HÄLLESTRÖM. At this spot, if you cast a few times and the fish are running, you’ve hit the jackpot, especially on the north shore.

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Svarttjärn

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“You can reach it by following the marked nature trail that starts close to our home,” explains Stina.

The path takes you up a 120-metre climb straight into the deep woods. At the peak of Lidberget, in addition to a grill hut, there is an unusual observation tower.

“The look-out tower is on the shape of a moose called Lill’n,” says Stina. “On a clear day you can see the sea from here.”

In summer, a lovely bathing spot across the bay can be reached by boat. On an autumn day you might like to pack a picnic basket and head out for some perch or pike fishing.

“We’ll lend you life vests and fishing gear,” concludes Stina.

Above all, life in Svarttjärn is all about the tranquillity you can only find in the country, far away from the sounds of the city and just 14 minutes from Skellefteå Airport.

Photo: Ted Logardt

i t ’ s l i k e a s c e n e from an Astrid Lindgren story.

The lambs are bleating and the cat is hunting in the meadow. If it’s haying season, and the hay, which is gathered in the traditional way, is ready, you might like to spend a night or two in the hayloft. But, of course, this isn’t Astrid Lindgren’s Bullerby. It’s Svarttjärn, outside of Skellefteå.

In the tiny village of Svarttjärn, the Stenmark family invites you to in an idyllic rural setting close to the forest and with a view of the water. The style is from the ‘50s and the home is tastefully decorated.

In addition to the eight beds, there is a kitchen, a livingroom area and a hobby room. Stina Stenmark, who teaches woodwork, spends a lot of time in the carpentry shop.

“On rainy days it’s fun to sit and carve a butter knife, or a hook to hang a kitchen towel on,” says Stina.

The family has lived in the village for nearly 11 years.

“We love it here and we thought that others would probably enjoy it as well.”

Stenmarks Lantboende (farm stay) opened in the summer of 2013. Since then, the Stenmark family and their resident dogs, calves, rabbits, cats and sheep have welcomed guests who want to escape the noise of the city.

Barely two kilometres west of the Stenmark farm is Havsvågen. Covering over a hectare, this boulder field is a remnant of the retreating ice of the last Ice Age. That was 10,000 years ago.

Photo: Ted Logardt

RURAL AND CLOSE TO NATURE IN

DE ST I NAT I ONS OF SW E DI S H L A PL A ND S KEL L EFTEÅ

Photo: Johan Gunséus

B&B FORREST INN , HOLMSVATTNET Forest Inn is barely 25 kilometres from Skellefteå and a stone’s throw from Skellefteå Airport. Here, life is all about following nature’s ecocycle, leaving a minimal environmental footprint and recycling. If you arrive on foot, the first night is free; if you cycle, it’s half-price Holmsvattnet 18, Skellefteå. www.holmsvattnet.webs.com

Photo: Lövånger Kyrkstad

Photo: Ted Logardt

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KNUTES HOTELL Knutes Hotell, in Svansele, has a fantastic view over the river. The hotel has two floors with a total of eight rooms. The rooms are bright and fresh, and each has an en suite bathroom and double bed. Shared, selfcatering kitchens on each floor. www.svansele.se Photo: Johannes Holmlund

INTERESTING ACCOMODATIONS

FYREN , BJURÖKLUBB At Bjuröklubb you can rent rooms in the old lighthouse. The former pilot station has been renovated and given a new interior.

Here, seven beds are available and there is a common room with an incredible view.

Bjuröklubb 500, Lövånger. www.bjuroklubb.se

LÖVÅNGER KYRKSTAD The first mention of Lövånger Kyrkstad is on a map dated 1642 and the oldest remaining cottage is from 1746. Here, you stay in red church cottages that have been painstakingly renovated to hotel standard. All of the cottages have retained their original charm. Pantry, shower and toilet in all cottages.

Kungsvägen 31, Lövånger. www.lovangerkyrkstad.se

Camp grounds, hotels and other, more conventional, forms of accommodation can be found on page 40.

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DE ST I NAT I ONS OF SW E DI S H L A PL A ND S K EL L EFTEÅ

Photo: Ted Logardt

The calm before the storm – Bonnstan in Skellefteü, before the Church Weekend gets under way.

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Photo: Ted Logardt

Photo: Ted Logardt

Restaurants and cafés

Cafés

Here is a selection of Skellefteå’s restaurants and cafés.

RESTAURANG 6:E VÅNINGEN +46 (0)910-174 70 Trädgårdsgatan 8 6tr www.hotelvictoria.se

Restaurants

RESTAURANG TATUNG +46 (0)910-193 22 Torget 4, Skellefteå www.tatung.se/skelleftea

ALLSTAR +46 (0)910-109 10 Torgg. 2, Skellefteå www.allstarbar.se/skelleftea

AINAS CAFÉ +46 (0)910-153 50 Östra Nygatan 70, Skellefteå CAFÉ KANEL +46 (0)910-77 75 00 Hörnellgatan 12, Skellefteå

Photo: Ted Logardt

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STIFTSGÅRDEN +46 (0)910-72 57 00 Brännavägen 25, Skellefteå www.stiftsgarden.se

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SVANSELE VILDMARKSBUFFÉ +46 (0)915-210 03 Svansele 11 www.svansele.nu

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O’LEARYS, THE SPORTS BAR +46 (0)910-79 63 08 Kanalgatan 31, Skellefteå www.olearys.se

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MARINAS RESTAURANG & CAFÉ +46 (0)913-301 30 Uttersjöbäcken, Lövånger www.marinas-se.com

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WAYNES COFFEE +46 (0)910-370 50 Torget 4 samt på Solbacken www.waynescoffee.se

SCANDIC HOTEL RESTAURANG +46 (0)910-75 24 00 Kanalgatan 75, Skellefteå www.scandichotels.com

BISTRO A +46 (0)910-171 44 Citykompaniet, Skellefteå www.fazer.se/restauranger--cafeer/menyer/bistro-a-skelleftea/ BRYGGARGATAN BISTRO & BAR +46 (0)910-21 16 50 Strandgatan 32, Skellefteå www.bryggargatan.se

STIGS KONDITORI +46 (0)910-103 02 Karlgårdsvägen 15, Skellefteå www.stigs.nu

THE BISHOPS ARMS +46 (0)910-21 17 60 Torget 6, Skellefteå www.bishopsarms.com

SOCIETY CAFÉ +46 (0)72-506 59 26, Köpmangatan 8 www.facebook.com/pushcafe.se

VERANDAN KÖK & BAR +46 (0)910-71 10 60 Stationsgatan 8, Skellefteå www.verandan.se

ESPRESSO HOUSE +46 (0)10-510 12 94 Nygatan 47 www.espressohouse.com

Pizzerias, hamburger bars, lunch restaurants, cafés, etc. can be found at www.visitskelleftea.se

OLANDERS CAFÉ & KÖK +46 (0)910-77 78 78 Nygatan 63 olanderscafe.dinstudio.se

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RESTAURANG NYGATAN 57 +46 (0)910-134 44, Nygatan 57, www.nygatan57.se

We’ll guide you to the best eateries and producers, Swedish Lapland’s culinary gems. Places where you can enjoy meals prepared from ingredients that are gathered locally, or where you can buy local produce to take with you.

DE ST I NAT I ONS OF SW E DI S H L A PL A ND S K EL L EFTEÅ

FOOD GOURMET BUTIK +46 (0)910-77 88 25 Boviksvägen 7, Skellefteå www.food.se This shop offers the very best for gourmets; e.g., hung meats, exquisite olive oils, spices from all corners of world, etc.

HANDELSGÅRDEN +46 (0)910-77 99 24 Stationsgatan 12 Skellefteå www.handelsgardenskelleftea.se Handelsgården is a gifts-andcrafts shop in downtown Skellefteå that is owned by 13 artisans. Here, among other things, you’ll find one-of-a-kind local and northern Swedish items.

Service with that little extra!

INGMAR INREDNING +46 (0)70-284 61 61 Nygatan 55, Skellefteå www.ingmarinredning.se In Skellefteå’s unique interior design shop you’ll find old, new and bespoke, handcrafted items in all colours, shapes and sizes.

Ingmar is the interior design boutique with that little extra.

KOTTESHOPPEN +46 (0)910-20 03 68 Torget 10, Bureå www.kotteshoppen.se Popular, quality brands of fun, inspiring and well-designed children’s clothing. Kotteshoppen.se is for those who are looking for the coolest names in children’s wear, baby cloths and toys.

LEGO CENTER +46 (0)70-377 74 48 Köpmangatan 12 Skellefteå www.hbadventure.se Here, you’ll find one of Sweden’s best selections of LEGO at great prices. The shop also has one of the world’s biggest LEGO exhibits, so don’t miss it!

LJUDSHOPEN +46 (0)910-136 00 Nygatan 61, Skellefteå www.ljudshopen.se The friendly shop that takes pride in giving you personal advice and service. We want to give you the best audio and video experience for the money you are prepared to invest. In our shop in Skellefteå we have three separate sound rooms that give yo optimal conditions for listening to, and comparing, different products.

Photo: Ted Logardt

LOCAL STORE +46 (0)73-810 91 01 Citykompaniet, Skellefteå www.thelocalstore.se This clothing shop for guys, geezers, men and boys carries garments including T-shirts with local motifs from Skellefteå.

NORDANÅ CAFÉ OCH BUTIK +46 (0)910-73 55 10 Nordanå Kulturområde Skellefteå www.skelleftea.se/kultur The shop sells items for people of all ages. We carry Skellefteårelated books, as well as locally designed items, art and handicrafts. We also have various products related to the region and to our current exhibitions.

SKAFFERIET +46 (0)910-134 44 Nygatan 57 www.nygatan57.se

Delicacies from around the world, selected organic foods and exciting products from our local producers.

SPETS & TING +46 (0)910-108 08 Nygatan 33, Skellefteå We have everything for beautiful interiors, always the latest in curtains, draperies and decorative items, and gifts from well-known suppliers.

SPORT CITY +46 (0)910-159 01 Nygatan 55, Skellefteå www.sportcity.se The outdoor outfitter that offers quality and a personal selection from the leading brands. Renowned for its knowledgeable staff and good service, Sport City has an eye for detail when it comes to outdoor-leisure gear.

Photo: Johan Gunseus

Skellefteå has a great selection of chain stores and a good variety of retailers that you won’t find anywhere else.

Here are a few examples of unique shops that you will only find in Skellefteå.

Photo: Ted Logardt

Unique shops

Photo: Ted Logardt 39

Accommodation Hotels

B&B & Hostels

BEST WESTERN MALMIA HOTEL +46 (0)910-73 25 00 Torget 2, Skellefteå www.malmia.se

Hostels, Bed & Breakfast and other accommodation.

B&B GRÄNDEN +46 (0)72-222 24 18 Magasinsgränd 4, Skellefteå

BYSKE GÄSTGIVARGÅRD +46 (0)912-612 30 Hotellgatan 6, Byske www.byskegastgivargard.se

B&B FOREST INN HOLMSVATTNET +46 (0)70-529 52 43 Holmsvattnet 18 www.holmsvattnet.webs.com

KVARNDAMMENS VILDMARKSCAMP +46 (0)70-219 49 41 Kalvträsk www.kalvtrask.se

HÄKTET I LÖVÅNGER +46 (0)70-576 88 67 Kungsvägen 29, Lövånger www.haktetlovanger.se

STENMARKS LANTBOENDE +46 (0)70-313 56 52 Svarttjärn 24, Skellefteå www.stenmark.webs.com

LANTLIV LODGE +46 (0)70-55 33 377 Österjörn www.lantlivlodge.com

BRUNNSGÅRDEN B&B +46 (0)70-293 45 24 Kyrkstadsvägen 16, Skellefteå www.brunnsgarden.org

LÖVÅNGER KYRKSTAD +46 (0)913-102 03 Kungsvägen 31, Lövånger www.lovangerkyrkstad.se

HOTEL VICTORIA +46 (0)910-174 70 Trädgårdsgatan 8 6tr www.hotelvictoria.se

SCANDIC HOTEL +46 (0)910-75 24 00 Kanalgatan 75, Skellefteå www.scandichotels.se/ skelleftea

Cabins & camping

KNUTES HOTELL +46 (0)915-210 03 Svansele 67, Boliden www.svansele.se

STIFTSGÅRDEN +46 (0)910-72 57 00 Brännavägen 25, Skellefteå www.stiftsgarden.se

HOTELL AURUM +46 (0)910-883 30 Gymnasievägen 12 www.hotellaurum.se HOTELL STENSBORG +46 (0)910-105 51 Vinkelgränd 4 www.hotell-stensborg.se

STF VANDRARHEM SKELLEFTEÅ +46 (0)910-72 57 00 Brännavägen 25, Skellefteå www.stiftsgarden.se

Photo: Camilla Öjhammar

B&B KOIGARDEN Ostvik 164, Kåge www.koigardenostvik.se

MARINA’S HOTELL +46 (0)913-301 30 Uttersjöbäcken 231 www.marinas-se.com

BOVIKENS HAVSBAD +46 (0)910-540 00 Boviksbadet www.bovikenshavsbad.se

BYSKE HAVSBAD +46 (0)912-612 90 Bäckgatan 40, Byske www.byskehavsbad.se BUREÅ CAMPING +46 (0)910-78 10 00 Jägargatan 34 www.bureacamping.se

Photo: Camilla Öjhammar

Photo: Ted Logardt

RUM FÖR RESANDE +46 (0)910-100 26 Klockarbergsvägen 1, Skellefteå www.rumforresande.se

Photo: Stiftsgården

MEDLEFORS +46 (0)910-575 00 Medleforsvägen 2, Skellefteå www.medlefors.se

BURTRÄSK CAMPING +46 (0)914-102 87 Långåkersgatan 16 www.burtraskcamping.se SKELLEFTEÅ CAMPING +46 (0)910-73 55 00 Mossgatan www.skellefteacamping.se

Stay on an island Hostel standard

QUALITY HOTEL SKELLEFTEÅ STADSHOTELL +46 (0)910-71 10 60, Stationsgatan 8, Skellefteå www.skellefteastadshotell.se 40

GÅSÖREN +46 (0)70-690 97 01 Svenska Kryssarklubben www.sxk.se/bottenvikskretsen

HAMNSKÄR +46 (0)912-612 90 Byske Havsbad www.byskehavsbad.se

PITERÖNNSKÄR +46 (0)72-543 30 11 Kinnbäck

Find more comfortable accommodation alternatives at www.visitskelleftea.se

DE ST I NAT I ONS OF SW E DI S H L A PL A ND S K EL L EFTEÅ

Photo: Byske Äventyr

BODA BORG +46 (0)910-70 12 70 Vitberget 10, Skellefteå www.bodaborg.se At this former battle command centre, challenges for the whole family await you.

FLASHPOINT EVENTS +46 (0)70-780 76 35 Åbyn 41, Byske www.flashpointevent.se Paintball on challenging woodland grounds and lots of other fun activities.

HB ADVENTURE +46 (0)70-377 74 48 Kåge hamn www.hbadventure.se Sea kayaking, stand-up paddling and LEGO-building.

LEOS LEKLAND +46 (0)910-20 05 05 Gymnasievägen 20 www.leoslekland.se LILLEPUTTLANDET +46 (0)910-563 33 Granbackavägen 102, Skellefteå www.lilleputtlandet.se Imaginative fairytale park for kids.

RASCAL HUSKIES +46 (0)73-821 09 91 Norra Yttervik, Skellefteå www.rascalhuskies.se Dogsledding on bare ground.

TIDY EVENT +46 (0)910-180 69 Trädgårdsgatan 17, Skellefteå www.tidy.se Guided tours by bicycle or water scooter.

SKELLEFTEÅ RIDKLUBB +46 (0)910-145 20 Ridhusgatan 27, Skellefteå www.skerid.se

Try riding one of the club’s friendly horses.

SVANSELE VILDMARKSCENTER +46 (0)70-543 32 32 Svansele 67, Boliden www.svansele.se Quad-bike safaris, wilderness exhibits, wilderness buffet, cycling tours and much more.

Perfect for nature lovers.

VISIT KALVTRÄSK +46 (0)70-219 49 41 Kalvträsk www.kalvtrask.se Hike, paddle or cycle in magnificent woodland landscapes.

Photo: Maria Ericsson

Photo: Byske BikePark

BYSKE ÄVENTYR +46 (0)70-543 32 32 Landfors, Byske byskeaventyr.se Whitewater rafting, body surfing and more.

SWENATURE +46 (0)70-539 50 80 Forsbacka www.swenature.se Traditional crayfishing, nature hikes and guided fishing.

Photo: Björn Bergström

Here is a selection of activities in Skellefteå.

Photo: Ted Logardt

Activities

BYGDSILJUM BIKEPARK +46 (0)70-662 24 45 Rengårdsberget, Bygdsiljum www.bygdsiljumsbacken.com CARIBO +46 (0)73-830 75 33 Hemmistjärn www.campcaribo.se www.caribo.se Forest camp with tour riding on North Swedish horses, a climbing tower and family activities.

DISCGOLFTERMINALEN +46 (0)910-524 26 Terminalgatan 17, Skellefteå www.sdg.nu

RÖNNBÄCKENS GOLFBANA +46 (0)910-77 93 33 Rönnbäcken 12, Skellefteå www.skelleftegolf.nu Fine wooded parkland with 27 and 18-hole courses, 9-hole pay & play and large driving range.

SKELLEFTEÅ KARTING ARENA +46 (0)70-564 88 02 Motorbacken 1, Ursviken www.skelleftea-ms.se

SWEA EVENT & GUIDE +46 (0)70-686 85 11 www.swea-eventguide.se Guided nature hikes in several of the destination’s nature reserves.

TEKNOBALDER +46 (0)910-73 68 04 Kanalgatan 24, Skellefteå Activities and experiments for all ages, including backwards bikes, visual logic puzzles and a planetarium.

VITBERGSBADET +46 (0)910-73 50 00 Slalomvägen 2, Skellefteå www.skelleftea.se A waterpark with just about everything, including a large pool with a wave machine, bubble pool, heated pool, children’s pool, flume rides and much more.

WILDSHOTS SWEDEN +46 (0)70- 689 71 97 Vitbergen, Kalvträsk www.connylundstrom.com Nature photography on foot or by canoe at Vitbergen.

Find the destination’s total offerings of activities at www.visitskelleftea.se

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BJURÖKLUBB +46 (0)910-322 11 Bjuröklubb, Lövånger www.bjuroklubb.se Fabulous nature reserve with exciting history, a pleasant café and a magnificent view.

Photo: Hans-Jörgen Ramstedt

BONNSTAN +46 (0)910-73 55 10 www.bonnstan.se Skellefteå’s picturesque church village, dating from the 1600s.

FINNFORS KRAFTVERKSMUSEUM & CAFÉ +46 (0)910-77 25 00 Finnforsfallet 40 www.skekraft.se Museum dedicated to what was once northern Sweden’s largest hydropower station.

Also a delightful café and fun activities for the kids.

FOTOSKOLA OCH GALLERI +46 (0)70-621 41 32 Yttervägen 28, Boliden www.facebook.com/Fotoskolaochgalleri FURUÖGRUND HAMNCAFÉ +46 (0)912-401 59 Furuögrund, Byske www.byskebatklubb.com KYRKHOLMEN SOMMARCAFÉ +46 (0)910-77 89 40 Kyrkholmen, Skellefteå www.svenskakyrkan.se/ skelleftelands This popular café, on an island out in the Skellefte River, serves waffles.

MARINAS RESTAURANG & CAFÉ +46 (0)913-301 30 Uttersjöbäcken Lövånger www.marinas-se.com

BURE ARKIV +46 (0)70-266 87 23 Industrivägen 51, Bureå www.burearkiv.se 200 years of industrial history.

BUREÅ HEMBYGDSGÅRD SOMMARCAFÉ +46 (0)910-78 01 01 Skärvägen Bureå

NILS SCHILLMARKMUSEET +46 (0)70-397 65 42 Nordanå, Ernst Westerlunds allé, Skellefteå www.visitskelleftea.se The artist Nils Schillmark was born as the youngest son of a peasant family just north of Skellefteå. Today there is a museum at Nordanå showing his work.

NORDANÅ KULTUROMRÅDE +46 (0)910-73 55 10 Nordanå, Ernst Westerlunds allé, Skellefteå www.skelleftea.se Open-air cultural heritage centre Nordanå is the site of a picturesque country general store with a café, several old buildings, swan ponds, a weaver’s cottage and other attractions.

PITERÖNNSKÄR +46 (0)72-543 30 11 Kinnbäck A fantastic island in Skellefteå’s archipelago that features a hiking trail, Sweden’s secondtallest lighthouse, a café and a hostel. You can reach PiteRönnskär by tour boat.

RISMYRLIDEN +46 (0)70-531 42 88 Boliden www.rismyrliden.se Rismyrliden, built in 1825, is one of Skellefteå’s most popular attractions. A visit to Rismyrliden is like glimpsing through a window to the past.

Photo: Jonas Westling

ALHEMS TRÄDGÅRD +46 (0)910–120 00 Kantgatan 2, Skellefteå www.alhemstradgard.se Italian ice cream served at what is probably Europe’s northernmost authentic gelateria.

Photo: Tommy Lundberg

Outings

MUNKVIKEN SOMMARCAFÉ +46 (0)913-108 63 Munkviken 130, Lövånger www.munkviken.se MUSEUM TORFRID OLSSON +46 (0)73-080 67 52 Bygdeträsk, Burträsk www.torfridolsson.se

BYSKE HANTVERKSMUSEUM +46 (0)912-104 25 Rotegatan 31, Byske BÖNENS TRÄDGÅRD +46 (0)910-71 47 37 Jörnsvägen 53, Kusmark www.kagedalen.se CAFÉ KAJUTAN & BÅTMUSEET +46 (0)910-863 40 Stackgrönnan, Skellefteå www.cafekajutan.se The café’s famous prawn sandwiches are served right next to Skellefteå’s fascinating boat museum.

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Photo: Krister Hägglund

DE ST I NAT I ONS OF SW E DI S H L A PL A ND S KEL L EFTEÅ

Outings Photo: Ted Logardt

SKELLEFTEÅ MUSEUM +46 (0)910-73 55 10 Nordanå, Ernst Westerlunds allé, Skellefteå www.skellefteamuseum.se At Skellefteå Museum, past, present and future meet. The building also houses Museum Anna Nordlander, Skellefteå Konsthall and Meijersamlingen.

ÅNGSÅGEN I DRÄNGSMARK +46 (0)910-72 73 20 Drängsmarks Hembygdsområde, Kåge www.drangsmark.se To find more open-air museums, gardens, weavers’ cottages, artisans’ shops and other interesting attractions, visit www.visitskelleftea.se

Photo: Mikael Långström

SKRÅMTRÄSK KVARN +46 (0)910-58 92 10 Skråmträsk 51 Skellefteå www.skramtrask.se Open in the summer, a café in the setting of an authentic mill from the 1940s invites you to sit and ponder and chate about a bygone age.

Photo: Ted Logardt

SOCKENMUSEET +46 (0)913-100 40 V Kyrkogatan, Lövånger

Photo: Skellefteå Turistbyrå

WESTMANS CAFÉ & BAR +46 (0)914-200 10 Robertsforsvägen 2 Bygdsiljum www.westmanscafe.se Dating from the late 1930s, Westmans Café in Bygdsiljum is an oasis off the beaten track between Skellefteå and Umeå.

SVANSELE VILDMARKSUTSTÄLLNING +46 (0)70-543 32 32 Svansele 67, Boliden www.svansele.se Exhibits include more than 680 different subarctic animal species.

VÄSTERBOTTENSOSTS BESÖKSCENTER +46 (0)90-18 47 47 Kamvägen 12, Burträsk www.vasterbottensost.com Learn all about the story behind one of Sweden’s finest cheeses, Västerbotten cheese!

The restaurant and café feature dishes based on wonderful Västerbotten cheese, which is, of course, available in the shop, along with a range of delicious accompaniments.

Visitors information

Photo: Johan Gunseus

No matter where you’re from, you’re always welcome in Skellefteå. At the Skellefteå Tourist Office we provide personal service and we’ll be pleased to help you to get the most out of your visit. We have tickets to events in Skellefteå, souvenirs, fishing licences and mementos and other items from Skellefteå. Welcome in!

Skellefteå Turistbyrå, Trädgårdsgatan 7, Skellefteå. +46 (0)910-45 25 10, email: info@visitskelleftea.se 43

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Welcome to Sweden’s northernmost destination!

In Swedish Lapland you will find unique arctic experiences. Thanks to the warm Gulf Stream, here high up by the Arctic Circle, you can experience seasons with great contrasts between polar nights with sparkling northern lights in a white winter landscape and warm summers filled with swimming and hundred days without night under the midnight sun. In the east – a 300-km coastal stretch facing the world’s largest brackish water archipelago, with thousands of islands. Sandy beaches, fishing camps and unique produce. In the west – vast mountains, brooks with water so clean you can drink from them and lots of adventures around the corner. In between the quiet, enigmatic, open-handed forest and river valleys from Skellefte River in the south to Torne River in the north-east, all with their unique distinctive characteristics to offer.

Traditions and cultures are strong here, and love of nature is even stronger. This is our everyday-life, and we invite you to share it with us. www.swedishlapland.com

Discover more from Skellefteå at: www.visitskelleftea.se facebook.com/visitskelleftea facebook.com/skellefteaswedishlapland 44

Idea, text & graphic design: Swedish Lapland Visitors Board & Visit Skellefteå. Copy: Ted Logardt & Therese Olofsson. Illustrated map: Lisa Wallin/Märkvärdig. Cover photo: Ted Logardt. www.swedishlaplandvisitorsboard.com

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