Nordic Reach VOL XXXII

The Zen of Style the magazine for those who love scandinavia

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au th o r : date :

Ulf Barslund Mårtensson, Editor In-Chief

April 2019

su bje ct:

Not all cottages are red

a ddress: emai l :

P.O. Box 1710; New Canaan, CT

ulf@nordicreach.com

s ubs c ri pti on s:

1.800.827.9333

Nordic Reach Volume xxxii A quarterly for those who love Scandinavia.

On Scandinavia, Nordic lifestyle, design, fashion, food and travel.

publisher & editor in-chief Ulf Barslund Mårtensson; ulf@nordicreach.com senior editor Amanda Robison; amanda@nordicreach.com

On our cover this issue is Gert Wingårdh’s Millhouse project. Also the architect of choice for Sweden’s new Embassy building on the Potomac in Washington, DC, Wingårdh is known for his own unique interpretation of Frank Lloyd Wright’s “organic architecture”—the integration of natural materials with a building’s structure. Created as a retreat for a family in southern Sweden, the Millhouse is a contemporary interpretation of a traditional Japanese tea house. Yet it also succeeds in respecting the Nordic tradition of high ceilings, plenty of oak, limestone flooring and an exterior that integrates well with the surrounding vegetation. Half-timbering from the local countryside combines with Japanese style, while the smooth shapes of the sauna, for example, were inspired by old-fashioned Swedish park benches. The house floats on water, a perfect fusion of east and west. See for yourself, on pages 16-23 in this issue.

A new brand that’s not brand new. Whenever I tell people that I am originally from Scandinavia and grew up in Sweden, they normally look slightly bemused and then ask the predictable question: “Isn’t it really expensive there?”

Even though half of these people are probably thinking that Sweden just makes cuckoo clocks, that still leaves a lot of people who have no mental image of what Sweden is – other than the country that gave us Abba, ikea and Vikings (and possibly Absolut and a luxury car or two…). The same is often true about the entire geopolitical region we refer to as Scandinavia or the Nordic countries.

Expensive? You choose. There is, as always, a variety of alternatives, but for a travel experience you can hardly find a better destination, be it for art and design, history, shopping, food or nature.

Among the world’s las wilderness areas, Scandinavia is likely the bes place in Europe to experience outdoor vacations. You can smell the aromas wat up from yellow grain fields and wild srawberry patches, hear sheep bleat and cows moo, bicycle along the thousands of miles of paths at a gentle pace… or test your pulse in extreme challenges like rapids rafting, dog sledding, extreme skiing. Hiking, simply being in nature remains a Scandinavian favorite for many, there is an abundance of fresh air and fantastic places in which to enjoy it – lakes, coastlines, mountains, forests and meadows. While Scandinavia will never attract the millions of sun seekers that flock to Mediterranean beaches each summer, it certainly offers some of the most staggering independent tourist endeavors in the world. This issue takes you to a couple of destinations that work equally well for summer as winter.

art director Dan Berubé-Arbello; dan@nordicreach.com graphic designer Nadia Marks Wojcik contributing editors Penelope Colston Sarah Brownlee Amanda Geard Douglas Reid Emil Sergel Bo Zaunders; Travel Simon Cooper contributing photographers Bo Zaunders James Silverman Roger Borgelid copy editors Amanda Robison Lisa Werner Carr marketing & regional coordination Mette Barslund Mårtensson; mette@nordicreach.com advertising For a full Rate Card, log on to www.nordicreach.com or call 800.827.9333 ext 12

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Publisher assumes no responsibility for return or condition of unsolicited material. Opinions expressed are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the staff and management of Nordic Reach or I. Kimberley, Crispensen & Sons, Inc. Copyright © 2019 Nordic Reach and Swedish News, Inc. All rights reserved.

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table of contents | volume xxxii

8

Cloaked by Nature

10

Norway’s New Design Palace

12

A Taste of Sweden in Scotland

16

Cover: The Zen of Style

24

Guest Appearance

28

Fjällvärlden, Sweden’s Mountain region

42

Been there, done that ...

46

Web Guide

A Taste of Sweden in Scotland

The Zen of Style

8

Cloaked by Nature

28

Fjällvärlden, the Swedish Mountain World

24

Guest Appearance

12

16

*culture shock / film

CLOAKED

BY NATURE

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In her final project for an undergraduate degree at Steneby School of the University of Gothenburg, fashion and design student Tove Kenne tackled the issue of “Body Identity in the Natural Landscape.� She arranged to have over 300 photos taken of herself in the mysterious forests of western Sweden. Draping herself in sheer, transparent fabric, silk, lace, and paper cut-outs, she seems to merge and become one with the trees, mossy rocks, and granite walls. Tove devised the scenarios, served as the model, and created the costuming, while three of her friends took the photos using a digital camera.

Tove is a beautiful woman, but at a height of over 6 feet, she has often felt awkward, that she doesn’t “fit” in certain settings or situations. By placing herself in the natural landscape, and by using fabric and paper to create structures and textures that connect to the forest, Tove makes a new context and “identity” for the body. It is hard to believe that this romantic and poetic self-portrait is the result of an academic exercise. But this photo series is, at the same time, an experiment in which the creator transcends her own vulnerability. Much labor and thought went into the project, as is reflected by Tove’s description of the way in which she used paper to contrast with the birch forest.

“The idea was to dress my body in paper lace. During the photo shoot, I connected the paper lace to a thin transparent tricot, and taped some of the bits directly to my body. I

am draped in paper, which clings from the birch to my body.

I and the tree are both dressed together. The paper lace is delicate and full of holes, the bark is rough and flaky. The paleness of my skin and my long, thin arms are mirrored against the long, narrow trunks of the birch trees.”

Living in an urban environment far-removed from the forest, we sometimes feel alienated when we compare ourselves to artificial standards of beauty created by magazines, television, celebrity role models, and consumer buying patterns. But true beauty, if we think about it, is never standardized like mass-produced Barbie dolls. When a person is cloaked in nature, we see that true beauty is a result of a mysterious balance between the environment and the individual, a delicate dance, a harmony to which we can all aspire.

volume xxxii 9

NORWAY’S NEW DESIGN PALACE How can one take an existing brick structure

on the walls using various cleaning techniques.

with great character which was built in stages

All traces of former doors and windows were kept.

between 1898-1948, and transform it into a show-

10

case of contemporary design? That was the chal-

In the main exhibition hall (500 square meters

lenge faced by Jensen & Skodvin Arkitektkontor,

with an impressive 12 meters of headroom), one

when they were given the task of converting and

can see original light-yellow tiles and decorative

refurbishing a listed historical building into the

patterned masonry, which was presumably creat-

and architecture center shortly after the opening,

new Norwegian Center for Design and Architec-

ed over a century ago. Evidence of previous years

workmen were still hammering away at the build-

ture.

of usage has been preserved and revealed, rather

ing’s café and gift store. Those parts of the build-

Before it was reborn as a modern design pal-

than concealed.

ing had yet to be completed, but the first exhibit

ace, the structure on the shore of the Aker River

The conference area is located on a mezza-

called “Extreme North” was already in place.

at Hausmanns gate 16 had served as Oslo’s first

nine overlooking the exhibition hall, and framed

The exhibit consisted of twelve scenes from

electrical power and transformer station. The

by colorful glass panels. In the area reserved for

the outer edge of Europe, corresponding to the twelve months of the year, and stressed the con-

new home for the two organizations Norsk Form

staff, built in an “open office” style, bookshelves

and Norsk Deisignråd opened its doors in Febru-

and desks are made of bended steel plates in

nection between Norway’s extreme climate and

ary.

keeping with the industrial past of the building.

the products and architecture, which has been

“What was important to the architects was

The lavatory walls are also special. To save

developed here.

keeping traces of the past. That meant that they

space, the walls are made of rolled and sexily

It is was an ambitious and visionary exhibit

couldn’t simply create a white cube showroom,

curved steel. The curved walls are made possible

(with bilingual catalogue in Norwegian and Eng-

which is the usual way to show art or design,”

by using new computer technology, which al-

lish), and an auspicious start for the Norwegian

says Pia Bodahl of Norsk Form.

lowed digital drawings to be directly transferred

Center for Design and Architecture.

Instead, the ingenious architects worked like

to the roll.

urban archaeologists, peeling away more layers

When Nordic Reach paid a visit to the design

n o r d i c r e10 a cnho r d i c r e a c h

For more info, see: www.doga.no

v o l u m e x x x i i 11

A Taste of Sweden in Scotland

We had arrived at Akva, at 129 Fountainbridge in Edinburgh. The sign outside read “Swedish café, bar & venue,” which pretty much summed it up (except that it didn’t mention a two-tiered restaurant and a beer garden).

We met with the cafe’s owner, Anna Christopherson. Her big welcoming smile was infectious. Busy as she is — she and her husband Mike own five other bars and cafés in Edinburgh — she appeared wonderfully relaxed.

We sat down, chatted for an hour or more, and enjoyed some excellent food and drink. Asked about what prompted her and Mike to go to Scotland in the first place, Anna told us they had been keen on leaving Stockholm for a while. They had looked at a few places, and on a whim flew over to Edinburgh for a week. As she put it, Edinburgh won their heart: The people seemed so friendly and less stressed than in other cities. That was back in 2004.

That same year they found a shabby old pub on Leith Walk and turned it into a cozy bar, featuring comfortable sofas, old-fashioned lamps, and the kind of floral wallpaper typical of Swedish homes back in the 1950s. Called Boda Bar, it became an instant success and was followed by several others, a couple of which served food with a Swedish twist.

And now there’s Akva, supposedly named for the nearby Union Canal, but more likely because of its obvious connection to the word “aquavit.”

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“So which are your favored aquavits?” I asked.

“Skåne, Linie, O.P. Andersson and Jubileum.” Her answer came without hesitation and sounded good to me.

I wondered aloud about how Scots react to things Swedish, and Anna smiled and said, “Oh, they love everything Scandinavian. You can almost convince them to do anything as long as you say it’s Swedish.” As an example, she cited a Viking Pub Crawl, where participants had to create a beard from wool and paint a shield on old cardboard. And in celebrating Swedish holidays, there’s hardly any length to which Akva won’t go. At Midsummer, the beer garden would have its own Maypole. Much attention is given to “krans”(wreath)–making. And all the usual songs are sung, including “Räven raskar over isen” and “Små grodorna.”

Other events include special crayfish nights, a gingerbread house competition, Lucia of course, and even a Kladdkaka day.

We asked about the Swedish food served in the restaurant, and Anna immediately rattled off a list of things, such as meatballs, herring (specifically “citronsill” (lemon herring)), cinnamon buns and kladdkaka.

At this point, our “starter” was served. Consisting of crisp bread loaded with smoked salmon and hardboiled eggs, and accompanied by a light salad, it proved quite delicious.

While waiting for the main meal, a Smorgåsbord Sharing Platter, I did a little tour of the restaurant.

Since this was right between lunch and dinnertime, there was just a sprinkling of guests, all of whom seemed to be enjoying themselves. The place struck me as utterly friendly and very relaxed. Then I discovered a kid’s corner with a selection of toys and a small library.

Bringing it to Anna’s attention, she told that when she and Mike announced that Akva would welcome children, their liquor license was rejected. (Edinburgh has strict liquor laws against children under 18). Fortunately, they invited the committee to inspect the place, and the ruling was reversed.

The sharing platter turned out to be a sumptuous array of, among other things, smoked trout and mackerel, gravlax, pastrami, cream cheese and plenty of crusty bread.

Satisfied and quite satiated after our meal, we indulged in yet another treat: a platter of the sticky Swedish chocolate cake known as kladdkaka.

How Swedish can you get? And in Scotland of all places. written and photographed by bo zaunders

v o l u m e x x x i i 15

THE ZEN OF 16

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Photography: James Silverman

Left: Walking through the foliage-covered gateway, one gets a feeling of a magical transition to another place and time. There is no indication of what is waiting on the other side. The woven oak gates also screen out the view of the barn from view of the house.

A limestone slab is cantilevered over the reflecting pool so that there is constant trickling sound of water as it cascades off the ledges. The interior floor extends to the exterior, merging the living space with the natural space outside.

Style

Cultures unite in this holiday retreat hidden in the middle of a quiet grove of trfs.

Amidst the sound of bird song and the gentle trickle of a babbling

missioned the Wingårdhs for this project. They were initially referred

brook in the quiet countryside, sits a small gem of a house on a family

to him by a friend in the early 1980’s, and they have worked on several

farm in southern Sweden. This uniquely wonderful structure, designed

other architectural projects on Diedens’ property throughout those

through the architectural collaboration of Gert and Karin Wingårdh, is

years. The Wingårdhs were challenged to design and build the guest

a unique fusion of east-meets-west. The house itself, a small structure,

house in a setting of a grove of tall trees with a small stream rippling

approximately 50 square meters, makes a big statement with its archi-

through it. The Wingårdhs proposed to design the space with a “ rela-

tectural language of simplicity and integration with the surrounding

tionship between inside and out, and a simple balance of materials.”

nature.

The entrance to the Millhouse starts before one even enters the

The newly built structure replaced an old mill house that originally

house. Walking through the woven oak gates feels like a magical expe-

sat near the stream on the farm of horse breeder, Johan Dieden, the

rience of transformation into another space and time. Positioned diag-

mill was torn down because of age and ill repair. Seeking to create a

onally, the inviting gateway makes the experience more interesting and

guest house on his property for visiting family and friends, Dieden com-

intriguing with the mystery of what lies ahead! Once through the

v o l u m e x x x i i 17

After a warm shower, you can head down to the hall for an invigorating sauna experience. From the sauna you can look outdoors and get a feeling of peace and serenity.

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Photography: James Silverman

Laying in the bedroom, you can hear the water trickling through an opening to the ground floor level. A Naguchi washi paper, still in production for over 50 years, and still made by Akari of Japan, lamp adds to the simplicity of the design.

A small toilet off the kitchen is divided from the shower area by this gentle curving wall. The curved ceiling section above the vanity mimics the curve of the wall.

The stainless steel air vent is functional, yet looks artistic and light in contrast to the strong oak beams above it. A beautiful image of the juxtaposition of all the materials used in the construction of the house.

you feel as if you may have been dropped in the middle of Kyoto! With its Oriental style garden, sounds of a trickling stream, simple geometric elements, and a structure reminiscent of a Japanese tea house in a setting among tall trees, the simple small structure appears to be an antidote to the restless world outside!

Glowing like an Oriental lantern in a John Singer-Sargent painting, this little beauty looks as if it has grown out of its landscape rather than constructed on it. Upon commission, the Wingårdhs were given a blank canvas to design a simple guest house separate from the main house on the Dieden property. “He was not specific,” says Gert Windgårdh of Johan Diedel’s requests for the project, “He gave us a free hand in this project.

He has a lot of trust in people and a very open mind.”

Gert Wingårdh, an architect, is known both in his native Sweden and internationally, for his designs stemming from residential homes to large public and corporate buildings. Known for his own unique interpretation of Frank Lloyd Wrights “ organic architecture, “ his integration of natural materials with the structure, makes it appear as if the elements are one and the same. The Millhouse is a product of Wingårdhs’ translation of Wrights principles of incorporating geographical and botanical elements and blending smooth materials with natural elements. One example being rough boulders left in place in the floor, reminiscent of one of Wrights’ crowned jewels of architectural achievements, Falling Water. That weekend retreat designed for the Kaufmann family in Pennsylvania, USA, is world reknowned for its open floor plan, built-in furniture, low horizontal lines, natural field stone, for integrating the interior with the landscape around it, and for the stunning concrete platforms cantilevered over the stream attesting to the genius of Wright. Gert Wingårdh, like many, was influenced by Wright, but has managed to create his own impression from the philosophy of organic architecture.

The exterior of the house and the gardens are a visual treat unto itself. A contemporary interpretation of a traditional Japanese tea house, it seems to be floating on the water. “ It is elegant,” say Wingårdh, “ it’s not a large space, but no less spectacular! My methodology? I allowed v o l u m e x x x i i 19

eastern principles by Swedish landscape team, Nature Oriented Design (NOD), provides the perfect finishing touch and integrating all the natural elements integral to this fantastic site! The original stream on the property is incorporated

The lovely fireplace, custom designed by the Wingårdhs, is enclosed in glass, and framed by metal, keeps the fire in view in cooler seasons. The outside can be seen through the fireplace integrating the natural feel of the fire into the room. A large limestone wall is placed above the fireplace, bringing together an intimate feel to the sitting area.

with the natural elements to create a dramatic new space. Once a small stream, Wingårdh redirected the water flow from it to an outdoor bathtub which then overflows onto the limestone platform and trickles down into the reflecting pool creating a constant sound of moving water. In Japanese fashion, large rocks poke through the smooth surface of the water embodying the Zen relationship to the garden. The grounds are a visual tactile experience which leaves a distinctive impression on all the guests who visit there If the grounds are eloquent, the house echoes the experience but with a distinctive twist! While small in volume, it is richly sensuous! With high ceilings, simple, expressive materials, and walls of clear glass sliding doors, the house has an integral relationship to nature. Surrounded by lush flora and the reflecting pool, the house is a true mark of distinction in the tectonic language of Wingårdhs’ previous works. Oak and limestone, his signature materials, are used with precise craftsmanship providing the optimal solution to emphasize the formal simplification of the space. “I grew up near a limestone quarry.” said Wingårdh, which resulted in his affinity with the beautiful organic, sedimentary rock.

Upon entering, the eye takes in the whole ground floor in one panoramic sweep. The floor plan is open and unencumbered by walls, yet each space is distinctive within its own defined area. Gorgeous limestone flooring connects the spaces inside and continues beyond the glass walls as an extension of the living area. The main structural support system is a steel T-column which is left exposed to rust, a touch of industrial design. The T-beam supports the load of the smooth oak beams resting on it. Two walls of frame-less glass doors contribute to the design solution of working with the small volume of the house, creating the perception of a larger space seems larger with the view of the gardens and the reflecting pool. “I wanted a relationship between the inside and outside.”

Regarding any design problems that were faced during this project, Wingårdh says, “there were very little problems, but since it was a simple structure, there was very little circulation space to consider, but it all worked out in the end like poetry”!

Small but efficient, the interior detailing is a collaboration of Gert and Karens’ design skills. According to Karin, she really enjoyed her role in the development of this project from conception to completion and comments that The Millhouse is “ something that I would like for myself. It has a very masculine and earthy look.” The furniture was custom designed by Karin especially for this house.

While she and Gert worked on the over all design together, Karin was responsible for the fine detailing on the furniture. A long L-shaped sofa is built onto the walls of the living room providing an efficient and maintenance-free space.

With grey soft furnishings to echo the tonality of the limestone flooring, it easily can accommodate seating for visitors. Task lighting on the ledge above the sofa designed by Philippe Starch, called Archimoon Tech Desk Lamp, produced by the Flos Company of Italy, provides good reading light, but doesn’t over come the space. The furniture is unique and beautiful, made of American maple and constructed in a jig saw manner without the use of nails. The joinery construction gives the furniture, walls and kitchen cabinets a special quality and authenticity blending into the warmth and charm of the house.

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The steel T beam structure supports the house giving it a freestanding feeling and allowing for an open floor plan.

Photography: James Silverman

the environment to guide my planning.” The grounds, designed with elements of

From the view of the south-west facade, the Millhouse seems to be floating on water. The reflecting pool is an integral element found in most Oriental gardens. On the right you can see the woven gateway leading to gardens and house. v o l u m e x x x i i 21

Photography: James Silverman

The kitchen is up a level, overlooking the sitting and living areas, allowing the cook to converse with guests as he or she prepares hors d’ oeuvres or a small feast. The kitchen is narrow, yet well designed for the space it occupies. Adhering to the “work triangle” concept, the floor plan makes the circulation around the kitchen easy and effortless from the three- points between the main appliances; from the stove, to the sink, and refrigerator and back, as needed during the cooking process.

While compact in size, appliances and cooking supplies are concealed in

the cabinet doors freeing up the kitchen from clutter in keeping with the simple natural feel. The cabinet doors are produced by Bulthaup a german company specializing in modern kitchen architecture, are streamlined and sleek, keeping with the lightness ans simplicity of the design. The beautiful organic shapes of the white pendant lamps, from Men At Work, Stockholm, seen above the work area, bring a whimsical touch to the space.

Beyond the kitchen area is a small corridor to the bathroom, shower and

sauna areas located in the north-west part of the house. Each of the areas are compartmentalized into it’s own functional space. In the small impressive corridor, is a beautiful, curved, limestone wall that leads the eye to a fantastic, deep, round window on the back wall that provides contrast between the sinuous curves and the horizontal lines on the walls and on the beams above. A critical component in this area is a changing bench where you can leave your slippers and grab a towel! Off to the right of the changing bench is a small powder room designed as cleverly simple.

The built in furnishings, designed by Karin Wingårdh, are space efficient and beautiful. The dove-tail joints are also used on the counters and the stairs, showing that great craftsmanship does not require the use of nails!

A bowl-shaped white wash basin, from Duravit Company, created by star designer, Philippe Starck, sits on a triangular vanity, mimicking the shapes on the curving wall. Behind the curved wall is a shower equipt with modern, sleek stainless steel fittings from the German company, Vola. It is gracious simple and clean, and across the corridor to the large, beautiful sauna area The Japanese tradition of taking a sauna, is to wash thoroughly before hand, then using the sauna experience as a spiritual, rather than a physical aspect. After the sauna stage, it is also in the Japanese tradition to take a dip in the deep, cold bath tub outside! A striking composition, the bath and sauna areas are expertly integrated into the homes’ total design, and prove that beauty and function can co-exist!

The guest bedroom, a special entity unto its own, takes up the total space of the first floor. Up a flight of stairs located at the back of the kitchen, the bedroom is a simple, appealing area situated under an A-frame ceiling. Long horizontal boards on the walls help accent the length of the room, while vertical boards behind the bed provide the perception of height. The bed, lovely and simple, is produce by Hästens, a Swedish premier bed company, established in 1852, noted for its use of natural materi-

Öijared Country Club in Lerum, Sweden, to wonderful and exciting new

als, was chosen in keeping with the green design concept of Millhouse. On

projects such as the soon -to-be-built new Swedish Embassy in Washing-

the opposite wall from the bed is a large double glazed window that fills

ton, DC, and unique residential designs including this special house, Gert

the entire gabled wall space, allowing natural light into the space. Accord-

Wingårdh has developed his own mark of distinction in the architectural

ing to Gert Wingårdh, a memorable experience while staying in the guest

field. From the entrance to the finer design details, with its Eastern influ-

house after its’ completion, was being able to hear the flowing water while

ence and formal simplicity, this sweet quest house is a jewel in the crown

laying in bed in the dark.

of Wingårdh and Associates. “It was one of the most fun jobs we ever did.

Although The Millhouse is small in size, it is infinite in architectural

We worked with a very good client who is a very pleasant man.” Both Client

expression. From corporate and educational buildings such as the stun-

and architects are obviously proud of this outstanding design.

ning Chancellery of the Royal Swedish Embassy in Berlin, Germany, the AstraZeneca corporate building in Mölndal, Sweden, and the unique 22

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Dori Kelly

v o l u m e x x x i i 23

Photography: James Silverman

Guest Appearance Situated on a peninsula on the west coast of Sweden close to Gothenburg, this small but perfectly formed guesthouse is the creation of Swedish architect Peter Hulting.

When Swedish architect Peter Hulting was asked to transform this old farm site into a couple’s new home, he immediately saw the potential to create an unpretentious, sensitive space with the ability to connect both to its immediate surroundings and the neighbouring open landscape. Specific only in their demands for a concrete floor and clay roof tiles, quality craftsmanship and simplicity were key to the couple’s vision of “a house that could age with dignity.”

Walking into this small, yet stunningly designed guest/summer house situated on Sweden’s west coast peninsula and you are immediately struck by a sense of space that belies its fifty square metre floor space. Constructed in the shape of a traditional Swedish summerhouse with a contemporary twist, everything from the furniture to the lighting has been designed to enhance the building’s shape and size – from the elongated Japanesestyle Movitz table and benches, designed 24

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by Per Holgersson and Nicko Åberg for Loo Design, to the long steel-pipe chimney that guides the eye upwards from the open fire to the wooden ceiling.

Using a combination of wood, concrete and plaster, Hulting has succeeded in creating a range of tactile surfaces that compare and contrast in equal measure. The smooth concrete floor incorporates the water-carried heating system, while the use of sawed larch tree for the exterior walls and reclaimed clay tiles on the roof allow the building to sit perfectly within this picturesque setting.

In order to maximise on the available space, Hulting opted for an open plan design. “I wanted to create a large space, but also an interesting flow of space,” he explains. “I also wanted to expand the interior space whilst maintaining a sense of privacy from inside the house.” By creating a large glass frontage overlooking the south facing landscape, sliding doors define the inner space when required, while at the

same time ensuring the interior of the guesthouse remains cool during summer.

Creating compact, innovative solutions for the sleeping area, toilet, shower and kitchen were also key to Hulting’s design concept and achieved, in part, by allowing the walls of these areas to work like large pieces of furniture within the main space. Towards one end a wardrobe doubles as a wall divider, separating the sleeping area from the rest of the house.

Two sliding doors providing dual access to the bed, while the reverse of the wardrobe divider doubles as a set of bookshelves at the foot of the bed. There is also space for two loft beds here, while the simple design of Ulf Scherlin’s “Birå 4” cupboard ensures that any clutter is neatly stored away out of sight. Low-level windows in oiled pinewood provide some natural light – as well as views of the grass slope outside – supplemented by Olga Popyrina designed lamps. To the left of the bedroom, two sliding doors conceal the toilet and

Leading out from the dining area, a wooden deck appears to float on the grass outside, while chairs designed by Yngve Ekstrom Lamino for Swedese and exterior lighting Andrew Gauld of Gauld Design provide the finishing touches. volume

x x x i i 25

Photography: James Silverman

Dining area: The shape of the dining table and benches add to the sense of space. Vast glass sliding doors capitalise on the view and provide easy access to the exterior deck.

Bathroom: Portuguese stone tiled flooring defines the toilet and shower areas, separated from the main living space by sliding doors in grey painted MDF. Bedroom: Low -level windows ensure the couple make the most of the wonderful views outside from the comfort of their bed. Paintings by Kurt Lightner and James Silverman’s photography, available through jaggedart personalise the space.

shower areas. The floors, tiled in Portu- of the window allows the windowsill to barns. The architect chose to rebuild guese stone, offset standard white tiles be used as an extra shelf. Further stor- on the old site for both historical and that have been ‘brick-mounted’ and fin- age is provided by open shelving that architectonic reasons. In addition to ished with a dark grey grout to create stretches the length of the kitchen area maintaining an historic connection a compact, yet contemporary design for easy access to crockery and other to the old site, with just 2_ metres solution. items. For Hulting, the interaction between the corners of the two build The central section of the house between the kitchen, dining table and ings he was also able to use their posihas been dedicated to the kitchen and exterior decking that almost appears to tioning to create an informal entrance dining areas. The kitchen sits in a semi- float on the grass outside is one of the to the couple’s home. The guesthouse recess, cleverly defining its parameters most interesting aspects of his design. will remain the couple’s home for a furwithout encroaching on the open-plan “It is a very interesting axis that is a ther year until the main villa is comdesign of the overall space. The stain- contradiction to the structure and the pleted. “They love the house and tell less steel of the kitchen contrasts beau- design of the house,” he says. At the far me that living in it makes them enjoy it tifully with brightly coloured handmade end of the house, classic designs, such more and more as they continue to disPortuguese tiles by Ceramica de Bicesse. as Bruno Mathsson’s 1939 Sofa Maths- cover small details and thoughts about Effective storage solutions are key to son [Källemo] and Jasper Morrison’s the design. the design of small spaces, especially Globall floor and ceiling lamps provide “It has been really great to work with in the kitchen, where storage has been the perfect balance of old and new. and get to know such interested and incorporated on three levels. A stainless In addition to the summerhouse, committed clients,” he concludes. steel rail mounted onto the tiled splash- Hulting was also asked to create a store- “Aside from building this house together back ensures regularly used items are house and main villa on the same site. we also have become friends.” kept off the main work surface yet The summerhouse and storehouse were within easy reach, while the positioning built on the sites of two old dilapidated india lang 26

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Kitchen: The stainless steel kitchen area is brought to life with brightly coloured handmade tiles, and kept clutter-free by maximising on storage space.

Living Area: Per Holgersson and Nicko Åberg’s – “Svenska Bär” chair for Loo Design perfectly compliments a 1939 Bruno Mathsson sofa in the compact living area.

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fjällvärlden the swedish mountain world

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Oviksfjällen, the Oviks Mountains in the shadow of nearby alpine skiing center Åre, is an experience.

In case you have limited time, look for easy access from any of Sweden’s major airports and still crave a hiking experience next time in Scandinavia look to Jämtland in central Sweden and Östersund as starting point.

You’ll find easy hiking mountains, perfect pitches and a view over the southern Storsjön in Jämtland while avoiding all the tourists around Åre if you head out to Oviksfjällen, the Oviken Mountains. Here you have the trails and peaks all to yourself.

It feels like my own backyard. I have grown up in these mountains. They are located a half hour drive from Hackås, my childhood village and an hour by car from the center of Östersund. I never feel as much at home as I do in these mountains. They are encircled by Gräftåvallen, Bydalen and Arådalen. Rolling hills, amazingly beautiful and empty. We are going up to Dörrsjöarna, the door lakes, the crown jewels of the area. A large valley in the mountains with a lake system has created the perfect camping spots pitches.

We drive up to Storgräftån near Gräftåvallen and begin our trek a few hundred meters below the tree line. As always, I have with me the photographer Roger Borgelid and his magical eye for light. Summer has not been gentle but our usual luck continues and it’s clear blue skies and no wind. Given the season this also causes recurring attacks of mosquitoes and gnats but we simply have to learn to live with that. We trek through the winding mountain birch forests and once we’re above the tree line we rejoice in a few puffs of wind that remove most of the mosquitoes.

The Oviks Mountain range’s highest peak is Hundshögen, which is 4,500 feet (1372 meters) above sea level and covers an area of reindeer grazing land for nearby

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Sami villages. In the slope below Hundshögen are the door lakes – fifteen lakes bounded by small gravel ridges.

These ridges are what created the perfect campgrounds.

If you’re not a friend of camping, the Swedish Tourist Association’s second oldest tourist station is in Arådalen located 5 miles from the Door lakes. It was built in 1895 and is only open during the summer.

However, we brought tents and move briskly in the direction of the Door lakes. It is an easy hike that fits even the inexperienced mountain hiker. We realize pretty soon that we are walking at about the same height as our final destination make our way along a contour line of the mountain. It is a pleasant hike, with mountain streams to be passed once in a while and marshland we have to circle around, but otherwise we keep a pace of almost four kilometers per hour. The southern part of the Storsjön countryside spread out with Hoverberget as the most obvious landmark. We go just above the tree line and the mountains are unfolding in shades of green.

We pass large boulders that normally provide shelter and rest in the mountains but today we can pause where we want. We drink from mountain streams, eat chocolate and make coffee on the mountain water. Mobile coverage has long disappeared and the sun’s altitude in the sky will control us instead of the clock.

The area around Oviksfjällen mainly offers beautiful day trips. Dromskåran is an unusual trail. It is a 2,700 feet long canyon. You start out from Höglekardalen and walk up through cozy mountain birch forest before the powerful groove opens up before you. It is a cool hike and you will enjoy a nice view at the top of the Drommen mountain peak. If you want another challenge, you can continue walking up the Falkfångarfjället, the Falk Catching Mountain. Another nice day trip is to drive up to Fjällhalsen in Bydalen. This will bring you high up on the mountain in the car and you won’t have to hike through the mosquito-infested forest. The Västfjället, the Western mountain range is located here and a shorter day trip is to walk up to Stenhyddan, the stone hut. It is located on a mountain plateau between the North Fjället, Sällsjöfjället and Hovdehögen. The cottage was first built in 1896 but was to begin with not maintained and started falling apart.

It was restored in the 1970s and is now the perfect location for a coffee break and can also be used as sleeping accommodation in an emergency.

The map was left behind in the parental home so we hike from memory. There are no signs showing the way to the Door lakes but the trail between Storgräftån and Arådalen passes right at the southernmost lake. We arrive over the last ridge and see the glassy lakes bathed in

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the evening light. We have never seen a greater potential for perfect campgrounds. The small gravel ridges have low vegetation, and some are almost like freshly cut golf greens. Here it’s all about selecting one place out of many. It feels like entering a candy factory and being able to grab how much candy you want. You just do not know where to begin. We go down to the water and find a location with little gusts of wind just a few feet from one of the lakes. Roger is lyrical and keeps talking to himself while he takes pictures. The evening is magical. Aside from the mosquitoes that is, a nuisance you get used to. There are a few tricks to remember. In addition to insect repellent, it is good not to wear black. They have no problem sticking through a t-shirt so a windbreaker is preferable as cover. Besides, research has shown that of the 2,500 different species of mosquitoes in Sweden, only thirty draw blood. They hate garlic and love alcohol. Fire is another efficient way to keep the mosquitoes away; they do not like smoke. They also seem to have some problem with citrus scent. You just have to test your way to what works for you.

We unfortunately don’t have wood for a fire, and according to tradition, I must bathe before I get to have dinner. To get naked among these bloodsucking swarms of mosquitoes doesn’t seem like such a good idea but a rule is a rule. I enter clumsily over slippery rocks into the water and it’s so cold, I do not really know what to do, where to go. This is melt water and I am surprised there’s no ice given its temperature. I manage to collect all my will power and lower the entire body underwater and then run screaming out of the water. Roger wants to take pictures and ask me to swim again, but I give him evil looks when I stand on the blueberry bushes, shivering and cursing. But now I at least I can have my dinner.

When it comes to dinner on camping trips it always comes down to the same issues – you’re at the grocery

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store trying to come up with new things to bring to the hike. In most cases it will be smoked pork, pesto and pasta but we decide to try something new this time. We’re having Thai stew with chicken. I’m not a big fan of freezedried food, which makes it a bit complicated. For what food is good and fresh for a long time at room temperature? It tends to be dried ham, tortellini, vegetables, fruit and rice cakes. It is always a challenge to find something new. It should be festive, taste good, offer lots of energy, and above all, be easy to carry. I let the pot simmer a bit to bring out the taste of garlic while Roger utilizes the last light of the day for more shots of the campsite.

The morning is magical. Cool, calm and blue. The sun heats up well when it rises and we walk along the lakes with lighter loads and let the tents stay up where we are.

We see two other tents and I hear only the local Jämtland dialect of the people staying in them. The lakes are a local, secret that few outsiders have discovered. But there is plenty of space. When we walk along the lakes we see tent after tent. The ridges meander between the lakes and there are plenty of small plateaus for both fabulous scenic views and campground. If you want to make a longer trip you can hike up to the northernmost lake and then cross through the wolderness using a map to get up on the trail of Falkfångarfjället mountain and then down through Dromskåran. It will be a hefty day trip and if it is raining the Dromskåran can be a bit challenging, especially after an 8-mile hike with packing.

We head back to the tent. Lingering in the sun. Enjoy a second cup of coffee. Enjoy the view. The forecast said thunderstorms today, but so far the sky is blue. But as always in the mountains it changes quickly. We hear the rumble from the north and pack our things. We realize that we are surrounded by rainstorms although the sun is up where we are. It feels a bit like being in the eye of the storm. Here everything is quiet, but all around us is heavy rain. Above the tree line is a bad place to be during a thunderstorm so we begin to head back. Talk about the possibility of going below the tree line if the storm and thunder gets much nearer. But, so far, the mountain we’re on is still and dry. We hold on to the feeling a little longer. Move slowly. And then the inevitable arrives. The rain cover and rainwear is. Stride length is increased. We fall silent and become a little more focused. It’s raining heavily, thunder is not far away but it is magical in the mountains nonetheless. written by emil sergel photographed by roger borgelid

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Travel Tips

how to get there: If you want to start from Storgräftån,

it’s most convenient to travel with your own car. There are also buses to Bydalen from Östersund.

accommodation: : If you’re not camping you can stay in the aforementioned Arådalen mountain station or the prestigious Anarisstugan, also run by stf, Svenska Turistföreningen. Otherwise, there are plenty of cabins to rent at both Gräftåvallen and Bydalen.

tour suggestions: Do not miss Dörrsjöarna, hike to the peak of Hundshögen and have refreshments in Stenhyddan, the stone hut at the Västfjället/Western mountain.

useful links: Read more on www.svenskaturistforeningen.se and www.bydalsfjallen.se equipment: Bring everything for a classic mountain hike.

There are plenty of places to stock up on water, but it is always a good idea to keep an eye on the water levels. maps: Mountain map/Fjällkarts z55

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been there, done that…

You’ve been to Copenhagen, Stockholm and Helsinki. Maybe you took a cruise in the Baltic or a tour up the Norwegian jord coasline… but you’re not quite ready for Greenland or Iceland. Consider then Sweden’s and Finland’s north – the Lapland region, which ofers some saggering experiences with a day or two in the countries’ capitals. Jus in case you’re not picking up your new car during a Jukkasjärvi-Kebnekajse adventure or happen to be related to a reindeer herder, here’s an experience of the beaten track, in Finland.

THE DEEP FREEZE IN LAPLAND As the world seems to be warming, more people are craving a real winter experience, and tourism in Lapland is booming. But don’t expect crowds – Finland still has enormous stretches of pristine snow.

Thirty minutes by car from Ivalo airport is the resort of Kakslauttanen, where you can enjoy various winter activities and marvel at the Northern Lights. Flickering candles and a friendly husky sit outside the huge log cabin entrance, set in an idyllic snow-draped forest. Kakslauttanen is a truly remote spot – a few miles to the north is the ski resort of Saariselkä, but eastward there’s no other habitation but woods and wolves for 120 miles, westward none for 60 miles.

When I arrive the temperature is a shocking -11° Farenheit, so cold you can’t even make snowballs. It’s mid-January, and the days are very short. When the sky is clear, the day is bright for only a couple hours before the sun edges over the horizon, but then it may glow a couple more hours even after the official sunset.

On my first evening, a tall figure with a grey beard and foxfur hat strides into the restaurant and booms, “Who wants to go ice fishing?” This is Jussi Eiramo, owner of the hotel. He spent his first summer here, 32 years ago, living in a tent and building a sauna, essential for both washing and warming with such harsh winters. He eventually built 32 log cabins scattered in 10 hectares of woodland, giving guests independence and privacy. On arrival guests are given a torch and a map and sent off to find their assigned cabin or igloo. You are free to light a fire but have to first use a sled to fetch your own wood from a store-hut. This is typically Finnish – competence is assumed because even townies spend lots of time in the countryside. In addition to the cabins and glass igloos there are also snow igloos, built to a different design every year, and a snow chapel if you want to have your wedding in thermal underwear.

On my first night I’m in a glass igloo, which is unique to Kakslauttanen. Jussi realized guests in the ice igloos were torn between staying (relatively) warm inside and watching for the

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The Lappish landscape we’re peeding through is exquisitely beautiful. On the horizon a pink glow shows where the sun is rising. Perfecly smooth snow sretches in all direcions and weighs down drooping pine branches.

Northern Lights outside. His high-tech solution was to construct igloos of heated glass. 85% of the heat keeps the igloo warm, the rest keeps the outside clear of snow. Turn off the lights, lie back, and gaze at the sky until you drift into sleep.

The display is amazing – more stars than I’ve ever seen.

Sadly the Northern Lights didn’t appear on the night I spent in the glass igloo, but the next evening the sky is still clear, so I join a snow-mobile trip to a nearby hilltop. Again, nothing to see except stunningly clear stars. We drive on to a cabin for tea and sausages and are about to leave when someone spots a green flickering flame through the trees. The display builds up with great ribbons of glowing light wavering and curling across the sky. We race back to the hilltop and watch, exhilarated, until the bitter cold and late hour send us home.

The following morning, the clear sky has sent the temperature reeling down to -22° f, despite which I join a husky sledding excursion. Provided with two-person sleds, one person sits while the other stands on the back and operates the foot brake, the only form of control you have over 6 dogs. Following the path set by a snow-mobile, the huskies speed off into the woods as they are released. It seems daunting, but in practice I have nothing to do other than hold on tight and stop my team from overtaking the sled ahead. The Lappish landscape we’re speeding through is exquisitely beautiful. On the horizon a pink glow shows where the sun is rising. Perfectly smooth snow stretches in all directions and weighs down drooping pine branches. Birch trees look like they’ve been dipped in sugar, each twig coated in sparkling ice. We stop for lunch round a fire in a tepee, eating salmon and potato soup and rieska, a barley-based flatbread. I’m surprised to learn we’ve already covered six miles. We take a different route back and when I hear the dogs barking at our return I’m sorry it’s over; it had proven to be so much more fun than I expected. When we stop, the dogs spring into the air, jumping and pulling at their harnesses with sheer impatience. They roll in snow drifts at the side of the track and take bites of snow to quench their thirst.

Back at Kakslauttanen I heat up the sauna in my log cabin and spend an hour alternately working up a sweat and cooling off under the shower. My fingers visibly plump up as my circulation is restored. Then it’s time to settle into a rocking chair in front of the fire with a cup of tea and a book. With no tv, news or email to distract you, it’s possible to totally relax.

Meals are included in the price of the room and are eaten in the restaurant (the set menu can be modified for dietary requirements if necessary), or a longer a la carte menu is offered for people who want more choices. The breakfasts are great feasts with delicious dark rye bread, herring in different marinades and great slabs of cured salmon to fuel you up for the day ahead. My fellow guests are a mixture of families, couples and younger explorers, mainly from Scandinavia, Britain and Germany, plus a few Japanese and Australians.

The next day dawns cloudy so the temperature rises to 14° Farenheit, noticeably kinder to toes and noses. I’m off to meet Pentti Nikodemus and his wife Riitta Lahvonen, who herd reindeer and live in a tiny village 20k from Kakslauttanen. With no running water and only a wood stove to heat their house, they lead a tough life. Pentti even made his own reindeer-skin boots.

He is of Sami ethnicity and is wearing the Sami national colors of red, blue and yellow. This traditional outfit was his grandfather’s, then his father kept it for special occasions and now Pentti uses it for the heritage industry.

Obedient reindeer are queued up, harnessed to wooden sleighs. It takes at least 2 years to train them for this work, but as Riitta jokes, it’s that or they end up on a dinner plate. We sit on reindeer skins and are tucked under blankets before setting off at a genteel pace. Passing red-painted farmhouses with white-framed windows, then barns and fields scattered in forest clearings, gives a sense of how people still live in rural Lapland. Gentle snow starts to fall so it’s a relief to be welcomed back with a warming fire in the tepee in their front yard. Riitta shows us how to cook pancakes in long-handled pans and she brews tea and coffee for us in sooty black kettles.

Other activities available at Kakslauttanen include ice-fishing on Lake Inari, visiting the Sami museum in Ivalo, crosscountry and downhill skiing, snow-mobile excursions, and sledding, which is particularly popular with younger children.

Sleeping under the stars, seeing the Northern Lights and whooshing through the snow on a husky sled are sublime experiences. Returning afterwards to a hot sauna, roaring fire and rocking chair in a log cabin makes Kakslauttanen the perfect base from which to experience the wilderness. written and photographed by anna watson

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WEB DIRECTORY

Education

Swede Among the Rednecks

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sigtuna sigtunaskolan sshl | www.sshl.se Sweden | +46 (0)8 592 571 00 Sigtunaskolan Humanistiska Läroverket, sshl, Sweden’s largest boarding school offers International Baccalaureate (ib) and educational programs from the seventh grade until school-leaving examinations. Close to Uppsala, Stockholm and Stockholm Arlanda airport.

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Lingonberries (fresh, frozen, or preserves). Call for nearest location or order online. Great gift baskets.

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www.americanswedishinst.org Minneapolis, MN | (612) 871 4907 Historic mansion and museum celebrating Swedish and Swedish-American culture, offering educational programs, events, holiday celebrations, special exhibits, group tours, and a gift shop.

museum of danish america www.danishmuseum.org Elk Horn, IA | (800) 759 9192 Share the stories and experiences of Danish Immigrants, displayed in exhibits and works of art. Explore Danish Heritage at the Family History & Genealogy Center.

finland center foundation | www.finlandcenter.org New York, NY | (646) 704 8000 A nonprofit organization for Finnish and American culture, commerce and community. Sponsors cultural events and offers membership benefits for $30/yr to all friends of Finland. nordic heritage museum | www.nordicmuseum.org Seattle, WA | (206) 789 5707 We share Nordic culture with people of all ages and backgrounds by exhibiting art and objects, preserving collections, providing educational and cultural experiences, and hosting community events. swedish american museum www.swedishamericanmuseum.org Chicago, IL | (773) 728 8111 Your Swedish American Museum of history and culture in Andersonville, Chicago. Visit The Brunk Children’s Museum of Immigration, an interactive, hands-on museum, or any of our exhibits, events and museum store.

vesterheim norwegian-american museum www.vesterheim.org Decorah, IA | (563) 382 9681 This national treasure showcases the best in historic and contemporary Norwegian folk and fine arts, and explores the diversity of American immigration. In scenic Decorah.

Organizations

the american scandinavian society of new york, inc. | www.americanscandinavian.org New York, NY | info@americanscandinavian.org The Society (founded 1908) promotes the ties between the Nordic countries and Scandinavians in New York through cultural events and other programs, with the Christmas Ball being the annual highlight.

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Institutes & Museums Reading List

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www.americanswedish.org Philadelphia, PA | (215) 389 1776 The Museum is a place where people of all nationalities who appreciate Swedish contributions to history, art, architecture, music science and technology can come together.

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©2018 Swedish Match North Europe AB

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