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DECEMBER / JANUARY 2020 I VOL 53 I NO 01
The leading clothing and footwear specific business solution in Australia and New Zealand.
editor ’ s note
CLASS OF 2019 In this issue, we celebrate the graduating class of 2019.
These innovative and talented students are the next generation to carry on our industry, and it is our duty to help mould those who wish to learn and grow. However, it is also important that universities and tertiary providers re-evaluate what they are offering students. While design is important, we cannot skimp on the basics. We have a huge hole for machinists, cutters, and pattern makers. The not-so-glitzy jobs are vital to our industry, yet no one is slapping lipstick on it and advising students that there is a career to be had. You can expose students to the wide world of resources, sustainability and history – but without a strong background in business, students are unprepared for the realities of job placement and career development opportunities. With the hope of newcomers entering the local industry (and not heading off overseas) combined with the explosive trend of sustainable and buying local, this is an opportunity for our industry to thrive again. We are excited to see where the fashion industry will take the 2019 graduates and what will come from 2020 students. Congratulations to Whitecliffe graduate Tom Munday for winning the 2019 Graduate Apparel Magazine Award.
2019 also saw Apparel celebrate its 50th anniversary. In those five short decades, Apparel has continuously supported the New Zealand and Australian ragtrade; it’s manufacturers, exporters, importers, retailers, designers and all those backroom professionals that make it happen. Apparel is proud to give ongoing support to emerging designers and help put them on a world stage. One of the ways we do this is by presenting a New Zealand showcase at Vancouver Fashion Week twice a year. We also are open to matchmaking young fashion entrepreneurs with established brands and companies. On top of this, we also sponsor and support several tertiary providers, fashion weeks, and emerging award shows like Hokonui Fashion Design Awards and iD Dunedin Fashion Week. We are involved, putting our money where our mouth is, by partnering with all those in the industry to make sure that New Zealand fashion is sustainable and can provide careers for those creatives wishing to enter the industry over the next fifty years. As we enter into a new decade – Merry Christmas, happy holidays and a happy New Year from our team to yours.
the numbers ...
Since 2017, new arrival products described as 'vegan' have increased by 94%.
Up to 20,000 litres of water is needed to produce 1kg of cotton. Polyester fabrics can take up to 200 years to break down.
Denim products described as 'recycled' have increased 683% since 2017.
Of the 40 million people working in the garment industry, 85% are female.
CHAIRMAN Peter Mitchell ISSN 1171-2287 PUBLISHER Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Suite 9, Level 3, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand ADMIN/SUBSCRIPTIONS Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com PO +64 9 304 0142 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the CONTENT MANAGERS Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com publisher. Copyright 2018 NZ Apparel Magazine. GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM Raymund Sarmiento
2 I December/January 2020
Ciaran Carroll
fashionable reads
Ralph Lauren: In His Own Fashion
By Alan Flusser Alan Flusser’s biography on iconic American designer, Ralph Lauren, is not one to miss. Published as part of Ralph Lauren’s 50th anniversary, In His Own Fashion looks at the designer’s life, his fashion and cultural impact. This highly intimate book shows how a young boy from the Bronx created one of the most extraordinary brands in the world of high-end fashion. This book showcases the ability to achieve goals, regardless of difficult circumstances. This book has been praised for giving readers the chance to absorb the content regarding fashion and the life of an inspirational man
Issues: A History of Photography in Fashion Magazines By Vince Aletti
Known for his role as a photography critic at the Village Voice, Vince Aletti has collected thousands of magazines from nearly every era of the last century making him one of the biggest magazine enthusiasts. In this comprehensive book, he shares a collection of the most influential fashion magazine issues dating from 1925 to 2018. The collection not only applauds the iconic photography that emerged in fashion publications many years ago but also reassures the role of fashion magazines in cultivating photography talent.
Supreme Models: Iconic Black Women Who Revolutionized Fashion
By Marcellas Reynolds Supreme Models is an inspiring, fashionable read as it plays tribute to iconic black models both past and present. From some of the first-ever black women to be featured in magazines, Iman, Beverly Johnson and Donyale Luna to well-known supermodels Tyra Banks and Naomi Campbell can all be found in this book. Celebrity stylist Marcellas Reynolds features photographs of over 70 women from the past 60 years. Black models have been changing the world of fashion one step at a time. Refusing to be oppressed and excluded, these women have reshaped the standards and boundaries associated with 'traditional' beauty.
Marc Jacobs Illustrated
By Marc Jacobs The Iconic designer Marc Jacobs has self-published a biography, Marc Jacobs Illustrated. This book is a unique monograph of more than 50 collections from the last 25 years. Illustrated by Grace Coddington, it is both personal and educational as readers can immerse themselves into the world of everything Marc Jacob. Jacob’s written commentary about each of the collections allows its readers to engage with his sense of style while enjoying the colourful visuals.
fast five
INDUSTRY STALWART PASSES
INTRODUCING THE GIVE BACK BOX Solo New York is committed to creating trendy backpacks, totes, duffels, briefs and sleeves with thoughtful designs for everyone’s taste. This year, Solo New York has teamed up with Give Back Box to host the Holiday Donation Project. The designer hopes to give new life to used bags by accepting pre-owned bags and donating them to non-profit organisations in the US working with Give Back Box. The program allows charities to help people in need during the holidays directly. “Social responsibility is part of Solo New York’s DNA, and we’re very excited to be launching this new program right before the holidays,” said Solo
New York’s marketing Vice President, Serkan Anders. “So many of us have bags sitting around that we don’t use anymore, and we had a lot of fun coming up with the “We All Have Baggage We Don’t Need” slogan for this program. Give Back Box is a great organisation, and partnering with them makes it easy for people to make donations and help others who need a gently used bag, and get a reward that can be used for gifts or for getting a new bag for themselves.” To encourage more people to donate used bags to charity, Solo New York is offering participants a $15 discount that can be used to purchase any bag worth $50 or more.
One of New Zealand’s most popular women’s footwear brands, Andrea Biani was founded by Sebastiano Perillo who earlier this month passed away in hospital after suffering a short illness. Perillo first arrived in New Zealand in 1951. He had to flee his hometown of Fiume, Croatia, with his family after World War II. The family stayed in refugee camps before the New Zealand government granted them refugee status. Perillo’s career began during the 1960s when he created his first pair of shoes in his family’s shed in New Lynn. Perillo took a few samples to a retailer on Queen Street, they ordered ten pairs and sold out that same day. Perillo’ reputation in the industry began after he made a quality edition of the Beatle Boot. Once the style gained popularity, he moved onto women’s footwear. While the brand has lost its founder and creator, Andrea Biani will continue to provide customers with the highest quality ranges and follow in the footsteps of Perillo.
CELEBRATE CHRISTMAS LOCALLY Mina has collaborated with both Orphans Kitchen and Fair Square Soap to provide mindful products perfect for the festive season. While Mina has created a reputation for herself and her effortless womenswear, the clothing brand has been eager to intertwine fashion and food. In her collaboration with Orphans Kitchen, the duo have created the kitchen accessory of the season, a Mina x Orphans Kitchen Apron. The brands share similar holistic values and believe that like good food, the best clothes are
made locally and with love. The pared-back navy apron is 100 percent linen and will be worn by the Orphan’s Kitchen staff. Mina has partnered with Fair and Square to create an iconic Citrus Laundry Bar. Handmade using all-natural ingredients like Northland rainwater, saponified coconut oil, mandarin essential oils, lit sea essential oils, this bar promotes handwashing garments and being kinder to the environment. Carly from Fair and Square soaps make the bars on her small lifestyle block in Tutukaka, New Zealand. This collaboration represents Mina’s values of creating sustainable, hard-wearing fabrics and paying close attention to each design’s finishing. Everything Mina creates is made to last a lifetime. “Look after your garments, and they will love you back.”
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SEWTEC REBRANDS HOLIDAY COLLABORATION Vans and Alltimers have teamed up to release a capsule collection which features two custom colourways of the Sk8-Mid Pro. This collaboration is all about mischievous indulgence which is inspired by Alltimer’s favourite vintage Looney Tunes sweater. The range comes in blue and yellow colourways, with jacquard checkerboard knits and impish cartoon characters. The two brands created a cute-but-cool blue dragon character and party animal dog to embellish the collection. Both custom colourways MAG AD.pdf 1 4/12/19 11:38 have asymmetrical designs with checkerboard panels on the medial
sides and the cartoon characters embroidered on each inner ankle. The collection also features a custom jacquard beanie with the blue dragon character on the back, the dog on the front and a translucent Alltimers patch on the cuff. There is also a classic-fit graphic T-shirt and jacquard sweater which include the Alltimers martini logo and custom floral imagery on the right shoulder. Alltimers recently unveiled its 2019 holiday collection which features outerwear, brand staples and winter accessories. However, this exciting AM new shoe collection is perfect for summer.
The well-known fashion tertiary provider, Swetec, is rebranding to become the New Zealand School of Art and Fashion (NZSAF). NZSAF is focused on educating future designers on how to function in the fast-paced environment that is the fashion and design industry. As a leading institution combining passion and expertise, they provide excellent education and experience for future designers. NZSAF encourages its students to think outside of the box and welcome different perspectives in order to grow and discover new things. The variety of courses available teaches students how to finetune the unique and intricate aspects of design that they can take and use in the industry after they
graduate. Students are offered the best opportunities in their field, and they are taught the necessary skills to succeed and excel in the real world. NZSAF inspires teamwork and academic success, the institution functions as a whanau who respects the mana of each individual student from every walk of life. NZSAF is a multi-cultural community which nurtures an inclusive culture. It is a place where students are inspired every day to achieve their goals and become successful in the industry. NZSAF is building the future of New Zealand design.
open days 2020 Study a Fashion Design programme at Whiteclie Fashion Tech in 2020.
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4 Feb 2020 | 110 Lambton Quay, Wellington 13 Feb 2020 | 67 Symonds Street, Auckland
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4 I December/January 2020
student life
Tom Munday Whitecliffe College
Tom Munday moved to Auckland from Christchurch for bigger and brighter job opportunities. He attended Whitecliffe College, where he was able to thrive as an artist. When asked how he got into fashion, Munday recalled his experience in primary school during mufti-day. “I remember one teacher of mine would host pageants on mufti-day, and everyone would vote for the best dressed,” said Munday. “I would always win the boys category, so maybe that’s where it all began.” During high school, Munday used clothing as a form of self-expression and allowed him to find his individuality and passion for clothing. “I took accounting classes in the hopes of one day being rich, but quickly became very bored and switched to a textiles class. It was there that I found my love for making clothing.” The most valuable thing Munday learnt during his training was the importance of ethical clothing and the impacts of the production of clothing on the environment. During his youth, Munday did not know or care for the effects that big fashion industries had on the world, however, Whitecliffe opened his eyes to the negative impacts of capitalism and he has prioritised it ever since. “It is through the fear of seeing these effects that I have rearranged my core values towards shining more light on changing the industry.” Munday based his graduate collection on a narrative to completely “embody and flesh out the clothing.” A narrative allowed him to gain complete artistic freedom to create anything they want, within reason. “You need a broad cast of characters in a movie to stop it from becoming boring, and I treat my collection the same. This year my collection follows the story of a postapocalyptic oligarchy that cannot give up their ego-fueled garbs, so they refashion them out of trash.” The collection featured nine looks, with the models playing characters like the queen and the queen’s butler. Basing his collection on a story gave him the freedom to explore clothing based on characterisation. The biggest highlight for Munday saw all his characters come to life on the runway. “With a myriad of backstage changes and plenty of props, I have never felt prouder of myself witnessing all nine looks I created.” The fabrics used in Munday’s collection were specifically chosen to represent the narrative. From vinyl and
foam to upholstery fabrics which comment on consumerism, upcycling and decorating waste fabric, he described his collection as resembling old, vintage couches.
Kurt Vonnegut’s novel, Cat’s Cradle inspired this collection and represented a satire of the west, postWWII. Vonnegut’s ability to mask a severe metaphor behind irony and jokes led Munday to create his collection based on storytelling and dark humour. Munday has never been one to take thing too seriously, so when he decided to combat the issue of consumerism, he used his beliefs of ethical clothing and love of storytelling when presenting his looks. He believes that sewing is an invaluable skill for designers, even though it is tedious and backbreaking. However, he prefers designing and pattern drafting as the outcome is much more satisfying, especially that feeling of finally figuring out how to draft a design. “Construction is a real bore to me. Things go wrong too often, and I hate the underwhelming feeling of a final garment, not looking how you expect. However, there is much that can be learnt from a cloth when sewing and handling it.” Munday explained that designers must build a relationship with the garment through sewing. Sewing has been a difficult skill to master for Munday, which is why he rarely incorporated it in his collection this year. “There have been many times where I have wanted to achieve something with a design and come to realise that I don’t have the necessary skill to sew it. For example, lightweight silk can be unforgiving if you don’t know how to handle it.” Munday currently interns at Taylor Boutique and Black Magazine, and he has learned valuable lessons about the industry like how vital relationships and networking are. He finds that the biggest challenge in the industry is the overwhelming amount of talent in New Zealand and the lack of jobs for that talent. However, Munday isn’t planning on starting his brand anytime soon as he would instead gain further experience in the industry and learn all the tips and tricks to help him in the future. “The biggest opportunity for me is the growing need for designers who utilise and have knowledge of sustainable practices. My generation has a lot more to offer the industry, and I would love to advise existing companies on the complexities of sustainability,” he said.