Apparel Magazine // December/January 2017

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DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017 I VOL 50 I NO 1

SECURITY FEATURE pg 06

05 DESIGNER FOCUS 10 INDUSTRY A-Z

‘Migrating your security into the digital age’

VICTORIA BECKHAM: Style Power

After our e-commerce feature last month, we decided to test out a number of online retailers. Overall we had several great and speedy experiences, but surprisingly it only took one sour apple to ruin the experience.

Beauty giant Sephora left us and over 5000 others in the dark when they were overwhelmed by complaints and didn’t respond to either calls or emails. Though we finally got our order over two weeks later we still have no explanation of what the problem was, nor should we continue to ask according to them. “You have your order what else is there to say”, was the response when we continued to ask questions. Find out more on page seven.

The holiday season is here and that means checking your security strategy. Retail theft is New Zealand’s $1.3 billion problem. We have put together a short security guide to help keep yourself, your products and your customers safe. It is important to remember that theft is not seasonal and maintaining a strong security strategy is crucial to any retailer big or small.

For our last issue of 2016, we’ve compiled a who’s who

A-Z feature which you can find across pages 10-13. And what would the end of the year be without thanking you for your continued support of NZ Apparel. As always at the end of the year we clear out our file copies and this year have opened some old files and had a laugh about how much has changed and conversely how little has changed.

With our 48th birthday coming up next year we’d love to steal any old copies (particularly 1980’s) that you might have and we’ll feature a few highlights next year.

Finally, my joke of the month: President-elect Donald Trump was at Disneyland and his security team were on the lookout for assassins in the area. One guard jumped up from his seat when he spotted a sniper, shouting “Donald Duck!” caitlan@reviewmags.com ON THE COVER: Phone 0800 735 873 PO Box 132279, Sylvia Park, Auckland, 1644. www.icesecurity.co.nz

1 in 11 Americans are shoplifters. That’s approximately 27 million people.

In 2015, inventory shrink amounted to $45.2 billion in losses for retailers. This “shrink” includes; 38 percent shoplifting, 34.5 percent internal theft, 16.5 administrative and paperwork errors, 6.8 percent vendor fraud or error, and 6.1 percent for unknown loss.

During the height of the British Empire, in the early 1700’s, it was against the law to import or manufacture cloth from cotton. This was to protect the powerful English sheep and wool industry at the time.

Levi Strauss & Co, originally called The Two Horse Brand, first used the two horse logo in 1886. The first slogans stated “It’s no use they can’t be ripped”. It worked so well, they still use it today; conveying a simple and important message 130 years later.

PUBLISHER Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com MANAGING DIRECTOR Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com ADVERTISING SALES Josie McKeefry - josie@reviewmags.com SENIOR DESIGNER Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com DESIGN ASSISTANT Hannah Sames, Luis Curiel PHOTOGRAPHER Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com

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ADMINISTRATION MANAGER Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com INTERN Courtney Macris ISSN 1171-2287

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2016 NZ Apparel Magazine.

David Foy This is the first book that has been dedicated to Victoria Beckham’s work as a fashion designer. It explores the rise of Beckham as a fashion designer and is beautifully curated from start to end. Style Power documents her entire fashion career up until her latest 2016 collections. This book allows its readers to examine how Beckham seduced her customers with her creative and innovative designs. Victoria Beckham: Style Power is the second collaboration between the London College of Fashion and author David Foy.

LO-LIFE: An American Classic

Jackson Blount Immediately, this book throws its readers into New York City in the early 1980s.

Featuring a range of infamous Lo-Life gang members and the history of what simply started as an informal gang uniform.

Little did they know that these uniforms, organised around clean designs and bright colours, would turn into more than just an iconic statement.

Crews of teenagers formed from Brownsville and Crown Heights in Brooklyn and made a name for themselves by dressing head-to-toe in expensive Ralph Lauren clothing, “Lo.” Polo apparel, or a range of other preppy 80 fashion labels. This represented an aspirational lifestyle for these kids from rough neighbourhoods who were struggling to get by. The Lo-Life gang would acquire this expensive clothing by shoplifting, stick-ups and hustling.

LITTLE WHITE BOOK

Megan Hutchison Megan Hutchison, Editor and Founder of She Said Yes, searched the globe for the perfect wedding planning organiser and was left empty handed.

So she decided to make her own perfect planner, the little white book.

A compendium of everything you need to plan your wedding, a 12 month count-down diary with checklists at regular intervals, journal prompts, space to record appointments, and most importantly, room for your thoughts to record everything memorable about the process. With so much to organise for the big day, every beautiful wedding begins with a beautiful planner. This book was designed to make every step just that much easier by incorporating wedding planning as a seamless and simple part of day-to-day life.

SARAH JESSICA PARKER OPENS FIRST STORE Actress Sarah Jessica Parker is opening her first store for her SJP by Sarah Jessica Parker line and a number of her other projects including; Little Black Dress Collection, shoes, jewellery, handbags and of course… shoes.

Located just outside of Washington, D.C. the store can be found inside the new MGM National Harbor Resort. Both the store and the hotel are set to open this month. “Opening a stand-alone store has long been a dream we have been working towards and we feel truly privileged to be doing so with the expertise, guidance and support of our brilliant partners at MGM Resorts,” said Parker.

YEEZY LAUNCHES THREE NEW COLOURS GLOBALLY

Kanye West and Adidas Originals are releasing three colour-ways of the iconic YEEZY BOOST at the same time. The game-changing sneaker is launching it’s 350 V2 Green, Cooper and Red simultaneously and globally on November 23rd at 2pm. The newest addition to the range, the YEEZY BOOST 350 V2, is known for its unmistakable aesthetic highlighting the mark “SPLY-350”. The shoe also features a semitranslucent rubber outsole and TPU sidewalls, this provides superior traction. The V2 also utilises adidas’ innovative BOOST technology which creates a durable, shock-resistant and responsive sole. This new technology is paired with Primeknit material which is adidas’ most advanced digital knitting technique to fit like a second skin.

REDKEN X STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB

Just in time for the silly season, Stolen Girlfriends Club and Redken have teamed up yet again. This time, the duo has created a limited edition toiletry bag. Each pack features a full sized shampoo and conditioner from one of the four ranges

by Redken; Colour Extend Magnetics, High Rise Volume, All Soft, and Frizz Dismiss. “We wanted to design something you could be proud of the next time you got your bag searched at customs.

It’s tough, it’s understated and it’s fully functional and we dig it,” said SGC’s co-founder Marc Moore.

This unique collaboration is only available until the end of the year.

NEW BID TO BUY AMERICAN APPAREL

Colour Image Apparel Inc has plans to bid to buy parts of the American Apparel business.

This is the second confirmed bidder after Gildan Activewear Inc’s bid of $66 million last month when the American Apparel first filed for bankruptcy.

Colour Image Apparel Inc also owns Alo Yoga which is popular activewear among celebrities such as Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner. Despite this, American Apparel might have already struck a deal with Gildan which includes the American Apparel intellectual property and other assets, but excludes the American retail store base. Whereas, Colour Image Apparel Inc is primarily interested in their manufacturing of which there is equipment in facilities in Garden Grove, South Fate and downtown LA.

KISS, CRY AND SWEAT PROOF

M.A.C OPENS FIRST COUNTER ON NORTH SHORE

Auckland’s Albany will receive its first M.A.C Cosmetics counter and will be the 13th retail location in New Zealand for M.A.C. Opened in late November, the new 43sqm counter is located within Farmers in Westfield Albany. Featuring M.A.C’s first interactive “playtable” which can be found in the middle of the counter. The “playtable” station allows customers to test and play in a less structured way with a selection of lipsticks and lipglass products.

To keep makeup in place for up to 16 hours, Skindinavia’s Makeup Finishing Spray is consistent and effective. Ensuring your skin appears balanced with no excess oil, resulting in a fresh face that lasts all day. The cooling technology of the spray keeps makeup from melting away. The natural temperature of skin causes moisture to evaporate quickly and can dry your skin and makeup out.

The spray slows this process down, keeping your face hydrated and retains moisture for longer. Skindinavia has also launched their Makeup Finishing Spray Bridal, which is kiss, cry and sweat proof. This is perfect for any special occasion, photoshoot or video. All products are paraben-free, hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic and are never tested on animals.

SEE US at the International Sourcing Expo, 15-17th November 2016, Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre

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NEW ZEALANDERS

OPEN THEIR LAPTOP LIDS

INSTEAD OF THEIR WALLETS • Over 2 million people are now shopping online • 20.6 million items were purchased last year • $4.7 billion was spent online shopping • Retailers to focus on mobile and delivery to drive growth The online retail eco-system is fast evolving in New Zealand. Shoppers today no longer simply go to the nearest store; they grab the nearest digital device. New data from Nielsen shows over 2 million people are now shopping online. The number of shoppers grew by 4% last year, with an additional 77,000 people taking part.

This number is expected to grow to 2,140,000 online shoppers by the end of 2016.

New Zealand online shoppers have spent $4.7 billion on 20.6 million items in 2015. The 24/7 convenience of the Web as well as price and value are the reasons cited most frequently by respondents for shopping online. The third driver of e-commerce retail sales is range, product assortment online is much broader than in traditional channels.

Tony Boyte, Research Director, Nielsen NZ said, “E-commerce engagement has come of age. Online expenditure by New Zealanders has reached $4.7 billion.

While growth has steadied over the past year, the market has grown by an exceptional 28% since 2012.”

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Chart 1 Zealand, The Warehouse, Mighty Ape and GrabOne. Chart 1 items in-store after buying online, are now being offered Chart 1 With e-commerce set for even more growth, how can by brands as a way to go the extra mile.” online retailers win more clicks?

Boyte identifies two areas where online retailers need to meet the high expectations of shoppers, “For retailers to attract consumers today, they need to put themselves in their shoppers’ shoes. Fast tracking the consumers’ experiences on their mobiles and allaying delivery concerns means online retailers could enjoy double digit growth over the year ahead.”

Boyte explains, “Online retailers should be optimising their mobile offering to stand out from the crowd and attract more customers. Building trust and confidence in mobile device shopping and payment experience is critical. The prize of being able to ‘talk’ to consumers one-on-one, including location marketing is a strategy that will also push retailers into strengthening their mobile proposition.”

Boyte continues, “Providing a great delivery service is a differentiating factor that will give an edge to e-retailers

Gosia Piatek KOWTOW Born in Poland in 1980, Gosia Piatek fled with her family to Italy in 1985 as political asylum refugees due to the unstable nature of communism. “Chernobyl also exploded, and mum wanted to seek out a safer and better life for us,” Piatek explained. After two short years in Italy, Piatek and her family were granted refugee status to New Zealand. “My upbringing was pretty varied, my parents took some huge risks and taught me that pretty much anything is possible with masses amounts of commitment and hard work.”

Focused on starting an ethical and sustainable business, Piatek didn’t know which field to start in.

One night over dinner, a friend suggested she start a fair trade organic cotton clothing brand. “I had no idea what that meant, but after some intense googling I found a supplier that was willing to work with me and next thing Kowtow was born,” she said.

Piatek studied commerce and a bunch of other very unrelated fashion subjects like German at Victoria University. “I really wasn’t an academic,” she said, “but to tell you the truth I would still be where I am if I hadn’t done it.” Piatek explained that she is a very practical person and when one runs their own business, having a practical mind will get you places. Despite this, Piatek believes studying fashion would’ve been extremely helpful, meaning she could’ve fast-tracked

the first three years. At the same time, because she didn’t know how to make a pattern, she had to pay someone to do it. This meant she had to outsource her work and work in partnership with people. “If I had known how to do it all, maybe I wouldn’t have taken brave steps like employing people.”

Her brother recently retrained in his 40s to architecture. Piatek’s father also finished a draftsman course in his 60s after being a sailor all his life and her mother has always had a creative streak. “We’ve always done arts and crafts in the house. My father

and mother now make cute wooden toys for their grandkids,” Piatek added.

When it comes to her key inspirations, overall Piatek finds she returns to the same aesthetic over and over again which is minimalism whether it’s in architecture, interiors or objects. Ceramics is another of Piatek’s obsessions. During a recent trip to Venice, she spent a day at the Guggenheim and said it was a like a dream come true. “All the great artists are there that make my head spin; Calder, Picasso, Miro, Brancusi, Jean Arp,” she said.

Now, Piatek is working three days a week and spends the rest of her time looking after her two-year-old son, Laker. “I also spend half my year in London, to support my partner in his film directing career,” said Piatek.

Her days in the workroom are very busy, spending a lot of time with the design team discussing colours, fits, themes, and other new developments. Kowtow is run on a solid team of 18 people in New Zealand and two in Australia in their newly opened Melbourne showroom. Kowtow’s Winter 2017 collection is set to be available in over 170 stores across the globe. “We are in so many countries now that I would struggle to name one that we haven’t ticked off the list. You can now even find us in Kuwait!”

Problem-solving is one of her favourite parts of running a business. Although she admits that things have gone pretty well, Piatek said there is always a new challenge every week. Excited that Kowtow is now an international brand and still growing, Piatek loves that they have stuck to their beliefs and haven’t watered down their vision for the brand. “Everything we do is still 100% certified sustainable and ethical.

I love everyone I work with; I have the best staff ever, and I know that even when I’m out of the country for months on end, they have my back.”

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6 Watch Out Santa Our guide for surviving the holiday season

Theft whether it’s internal or external can be detrimental for any small business.

While it is possible to happen any time of the year, the holiday season brings large busy crowds and a heightened risk of theft. SME retailers beware, the level of fraud is climbing and it’s nothing to be jolly about.

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GUARDS

Trained security guards are reassuring for not only your customers but your staff too, and serves as an active deterrent for shoplifters. Well-trained guards with good customer service is another bonus. Being able to help and interact with customers at busy times while on the lookout for suspicious activity is a skill not to be underestimated.

2

GO UNDERCOVER

Retail undercover detectives have been recognised as a crucial part to any security strategy, especially to prevent organised gangs who target garments and products of high value and bag snatching or purse-dipping your customers too. These detectives are trained to spot the range of methods that criminals would use in your store and to identify where gangs prey on customers.

This may involve switching price labels or collusion with dishonest staff members at the point of sale or goods return. Detectives are most effective when they work in unison with uniformed guards and security systems to stop crime legally and safely.

3

WORK WITH LOCAL POLICE

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STORE LAYOUT

Working with local police and building your relationship with them greatly reduces crime and helps identify local repeat offenders and organised gangs. There is also a number of groups that provide information for retailers and help them work with the police. ICE Security’s new system is backed up in the cloud and linked to local police, so if an incident does happen they can login live.

Maybe it’s time to rethink your store’s layout. Have you got some corners that need to be a bit more open? A good store layout is key for your customers mind as well by creating an easy in and out flow. Thankfully, minimalism is trending and you can have your store completely open so you can see a pin drop from across the room. You might also want to redirect your CCTV to areas your staff do not have a direct line of view of. Things with higher price tags that aren’t impulse buys should also be moved somewhere close to staff or into display cabinets.

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FRIENDLY CUSTOMER SERVICE

By having friendly, active and helpful staff, you may just have the best deterrent yet. Staff approaching shoppers (suspicious or not) offering help, is a key tactic highlighted by industry experts in deterring shoplifters. Providing good customer service by greeting customers and making eye contact lets them know you have seen them.

AFFORDABLE ANTI-THEFT EQUIPMENT

SME’s need to take advantage of extra security systems and there’s no excuse with CCTV becoming increasingly more affordable. Independent retailers with no CCTV are more likely to be a target. Also, don’t underestimate a simple warning sign. Warning signs and cameras (whether they work or not) make a huge difference in deterring thieves. Tracking devices are popular with larger retailers, raise an alarm when products are taken off the premises. Simple and effective, but remember to provide your staff with proper training on what to do if the alarm does go off. Another key tool for crimefighting retailers is Aucklandbased software company Auror. Auror provides a web platform where retailers can report crime incidents from their stores in just a few minutes. Nearby stores and Police get alerted to crimes instantly, providing valuable intelligence about offenders, the items they like to target, groups they operate with, vehicles they use and more. The base level of Auror’s award-winning platform is free for retailers.

ICE Security advises retailers to upgrade their old cameras to the latest technology.

Most cheap recording equipment are affordable, sure, but will not last in the long run. ICE Security’s equipment have one centralized point where your servers are hosted. Their system allows you to have full access and limit your staff to portions of it from any PC or mobile.

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WATCH OUT FOR GROUPS

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INTERNAL THEFT

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ONLINE FRAUD

Organised thieves and gangs are a growing problem. It starts with one to distract one of your staff. Then one or more will move around the store to avoid detection. Overseas groups like Retailers Against Crime help combat this problem. Talk to other retailers in your area and keep each other informed.

Unfortunately, some staff members are rotten eggs and think that stealing from small businesses is okay. Internal theft accounted for 5.3 percent of all retail crime last year in the UK. These ‘incidents’ may go undetected at first with Christmas shopping and increased quantity and movement of merchandise. Retailers beware, this is most common to occur at point of sale, returns areas and changing rooms. Hiring staff like this can be prevented by checking and questioning references and employment history.

Fraud is huge in the online world, especially in highly competitive markets with low margins and fast turnovers. Here are three basic things to look out for as an online retailer; does the delivery address match the cardholder’s address, foreign credit cards, high value and high volume orders from new customers.

If you see a red flag, it’s probably time to investigate. For example, online retailer Garden4Less had a customer flagged as suspicious when they bought a £500 battery mower. After a quick look on Google Maps, they didn’t even have a lawn.

They then rang the phone number given by the customer and it was unobtainable.

After they sent an email asking them to contact the company and put the order to the side. “If you do get through ask them questions about the order, the ones that are argumentative are likely to be fraud,” the team at Garden4Less said.

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CHECK YOUR STRATEGY

Is your CCTV or anti-theft equipment working and is it directed in the same area you put it in? Can images and video be easily checked and identified on a monitor after an incident? You should also organise an annual security audit, this ensures your equipment is not only working, but effective and a great way to see what combinations work best. Larger stores should have an extensive security strategy that include the use of CCTV, EAS tagging and EPoS till monitoring. Make a list, check it twice.

KEEP AN EYE ON YOUR BUSINESS

CCTV has become a primary security resource complimenting Access Control and Intruder Security Systems.

Not only do CCTV cameras complement existing security but in many cases can seamlessly integrate to a growing list of partner products. The benefits of CCTV are seen everywhere from basic deterrents like CCTV warning signage to critical evidential video footage in serious crimes. ICE Security specialise in CCTV for retail stores and shopping centres, corporate offices and public spaces. They offer a comprehensive range of CCTV technologies and can ensure that the best solutions are provided for your business. CCTV recorders have traditionally been an asset owned and managed by the client. This ownership is a long – term liability, and even with the most robust plans in place, the equipment will always be outdated, superseded and eventually replaced. With the installation of Fibre Networks throughout New Zealand, many servers have gone to the Cloud (off-site management).

With the correct installation design and planning, your CCTV system can now

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be hosted and managed in the CCTV Cloud with ICE Security. It is fully managed including updates, maintenance and repairs. Ice Security can help you take control of your CCTV now and into the future. With over 20 years combined experience in the security industry, ICE Security has everything customers need to manage, monitor and maintain all aspects of their security requirements in one place. The company provide a professional, performance based technical and system support service that is reviewed and updated on a regular basis. ICE Security have the resources and certification to build, design and monitor and maintain high-level security systems and integration infrastructure including the provision of external monitoring and manpower services. They work closely with clients to develop a long-term working relationship that provides the highest quality services and solutions available. Listening to what customers need and want is at the top of the list so that they can create an environment that allows the company to succeed.

For more information on how they can help you keep an eye on your business, especially over the holiday season call 0800 735 873 or email Brock@icesecurity.co.nz.

B I G

T I C K

F O R

E-COMMERCE TEST

O​verall o​ur e-​c​ommerce experiment was a success. We decided to place orders with a range of companies through their online stores to test for ourselves response times, returns, and in​​store returns. We placed orders with fashion stores Seed, Cue, Bendon, Country Road, Sephora NZ, Postie Plus, and Glassons. We also hit the big ​ department ​stores Farmers and Harvey Norman and finally trialled ASOS, Net-a-Porter and Victoria’s Secret. Results overall were great. With a big tick for everyone except Sephora NZ, the disaster there was compounded by the company’s failure to address what became a PR nightmare (more below). Though social media can be a blessing it can also be a curse and requires companies to be on the ball ready to react immediately to problems. Some basic rules apply when you have an online store, and we asked two high profile PR experts and they shared their thoughts with Apparel.

SEPHORA NZ IN TROUBLED WATERS

Thousands of customers from Sephora NZ and AU are out of pocket after ordering off the e-commerce website. Products simply aren’t being delivered in time frames promised by the company. In some cases, customers are waiting well over a month for their order. Customer service is a no show, with company phones on an automated voicemail message inviting callers to leave a message. A Sephora customer services manager based in Singapore told NZ Apparel that there are no representatives in New Zealand for the company and that everything is run from Singapore.

Hui Qiu is one of many unhappy customers. After ordering she received no updates or emails. “There is no reply at all.

I want to know what happened to my order and I want my money back to reduce my loss. I am so disappointed with this purchase. If there is a solution as soon as possible, it would be good,” Qiu said. It would seem on inspection of their social

media sites, that problems started to happen even before the Black Friday sale with​complaints pre dating the sale by over a month. “I will never make another purchase from Sephora NZ,” said Qiu. The global warehouse and distributor for Sephora NZ and AU, Quantium Solutions were also contacted for comment, they said that they couldn’t comment on clients specifically, but said they have had no issues.

Sephora has been contacted for a comment by Apparel prior to going to print but they have, unsurprisingly, not returned phone calls or emails. The PR company for Sephora Australia was contacted by NZ Apparel for a comment.

Managing director of One DayDream, Pru Corrigan replied with this, “I have been brought up to speed on your customer service issue. As you have already received your online order – I need to understand what further information you require.”

The NZ Apparel order arrived, two weeks late following three solid days of calling head office in Singapore and being passed around to almost everyone at Sephora. Disgruntled customers have taken to social media to post negative reviews and comments about the company, and only after it escalated, has Sephora been answering a few, but ignoring the majority.

Surely, when so many customers are involved an explanation and an apology is the minimum response and one that isn’t hidden in the fine print of the FAQ on the website, should be issued. They have been quick to take customers money and slow to offer refunds or explanations as to why and where the orders are. That’s a fail Sephora NZ.

TACKLE THE PROBLEM HEAD ON Murray Bevan, director of Showroom 22, has some tips on what do to if a situation like Sephora NZ happens to your brand. “Get your core, senior team together and draft a concise and positive reply that can be the fall-back response from that point onwards, detailing the fault and then how the company will rectify the fault. Don’t be too technical customers don’t care if the conveyor belt was out of date or if staff member #432 ordered medium bags instead of large bags, they just want to understand the general gist, and most importantly how they will be taken care of.

Post the reply either on a company social media platform, or choose one leading, popular and authoritative media channel to get your message out. At this stage of the problem, I am sure that Sephora had no shortage of media chasing them for comment, so use one to your advantage.

If the problem truly has been dealt with, the company should focus on working all hours of the day and night to rectify the issue. If there’s time, the company should spend time creating a ‘make good’ deal for all of its customers to enjoy that shows the company will forfeit some of its own profits or products to make its customers happy again.

Global giving - everyone loves free stuff!

Never underestimate the value of tackling a problem like this head-on. Companies who avoid customer feedback or delete comments off their social feeds in the hope the problem will go away do so at their own peril. Human beings hate being ignored, and most tend to get angrier when they’re ignored, not more passive. Although it can be ugly at times, someone has to step up, take responsibility, and assure customers that their needs are being addressed.

In an ideal world, a problem like the one Sephora is having should never happen, at least not at this scale. Their systems should have been tested and tested and tested before they embarked on selling and shipping to the public. How a problem like this was allowed to spiral out of control is mind-boggling. Whoever takes the lead in addressing the issue with customers needs to appear senior in rank, educated on the problem at hand, and use commanding language to assure customers that concrete steps are being taken to fix the problem. Don’t beat around the bush. Set deadlines to get back to people, and then meet those deadlines.”

Murray Bevan Director, Showroon 22

TURNING UNHAPPY CUSTOMERS INTO LOYAL ADVOCATES​

“Most organisations at some point in time will be faced with an unhappy customer/client or an issue where they are unable to deliver on what they have promised. The way that an organisation acts in a time of crisis or conflict is critical – there are few things that can impact brand reputation more. In fact, if the matter is dealt with promptly and transparently this can actually flip the situation around and turn unhappy customers to loyal advocates.

In situations like the one described it’s important to communicate. The worst thing a company can do is hide behind a wall of silence. This is the time to explain what has happened, apologise and confirm what the solution is. Give conservative time frames and hope they will meet customer expectations. If not,​immediately offer a refund.

It’s cheaper to replace the product than to replace the customer.

When it comes to complaints that arise on social media it is best to take the conversation offline before the conversation escalates publicly and does further damage to your brand. It is important to acknowledge the complaint online so that the rest of the community can see that you have taken it seriously but then ask the customer to private message you their phone number and/or email so that you can pick up the conversation directly.” ​ eborah Pead D Chief Executive Officer Pead PR

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DENIM Alexander Wang Resene Glamour Puss

Courrèges Resene Double Alabaster

Denim’s fresh, new-season look is all about raw hems, a trend that has been embraced by celebrities and designers alike. While raw hemmed denim debuted on jean hems, a myriad of forward-thinking designers have incorporated the edgy detailing into their collections in a variety of forms, from a subtle addition, to a neat tailored garment, to a pronounced component of a heavily distressed item.

Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini’s SS17 collection emanated youthful, feminine nonchalance. Floaty, ruffled dresses in delicate floral prints paired with studded, leather belts create a whimsical, prairie-inspired look. The effortless feel comes from relaxed silhouettes, loosely woven knits, and raw hems. Creative director Lorenzo Serafini used mid-wash denim similar to Resene Azure and crafted a variety of unusual pieces which all featured raw hemming. A denim corset top, shorts, and a ruffled jacket added a modern edge to the light, feminine collection.

Modern sportswear categorised the aesthetic of Courrèges SS17 collection. The clean lines and slim cuts were reminiscent of 1960’s futurism, which was favoured by designers Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant. Only one garment featured raw edged denim; straight-cut jeans with a small front slit, in a wash close to Resene Double Alabaster.

8 I December/January 2017

Each X Other Resene Blue Moon

Marques’ Almeida Resene Breathless

These jeans demonstrated the subtly of raw hemmed denim, as the hem was only softly distressed, and exuded understated refinement. Courrèges’ collection utilized a variety of fabrics, from suede to sequins, and was mainly unified by the similar cut and styling of the garments.

Versus Versace’s SS17 collection featured modern, grunge looks in a striking palette.

The street-ready collection mixed distressed denim, black riveted leather, khaki green puffer jackets and buttercup yellow accents. The result was a bold, fresh collection that is eminently wearable, and a continuation of the current 2000’s norm-core revival.

Distressed denim was conspicuous and androgynous, shown in light washes akin to Resene Cut Glass, with raw hems completing the edgy, unkempt look.

Roberto Cavalli’s SS17 collection, expertly created by Peter Dundas, epitomised the bohemian-inspired luxurious style with which the brand has become synonymous. In traditional Cavalli style the skinny scarves, flared jeans, and the intricately embellished, floaty fabrics were plentiful. Fringing inspired Dundas, which was employed throughout the collection. Jeans were crafted with a variety of embellishments, though the flared silhouette was uniform. One particular pair of jeans featured a swirled pattern created by

raw & unleashed

Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Resene Azure

Roberto Cavalli Resene Avalanche

layering denims in varying washes across the leg of the jeans. The carefully cut layers of denim had raw edges that accented the look, featuring mid and dark washes, including one similar to Resene Avalanche.

Tommy Hilfiger heaped on the nautical embellishments for SS17 TommyxGigi collection. Thick fishermen’s sweaters, anchor prints, neck scarves and practical flat slipons were appropriate for the Manhattan Pier location. The palette of navy, red and white was typical of Hilfiger and perfectly matched to the nautical theme. Denim garments were in dark washes close to Resene Biscay and all had raw hems with minimal distressing.

Californian surfer styling was the main reference made by Alexander Wang in his collaboration with Adidas for SS17. Fluorescent splashes of colours combined with a monochromatic palette gave the collection a fresh, electric feel and was shown as block colour and within patterns. Distressed denim shorts with a raw hem employed this palette, with a black and fluorescent pink (similar to Resene Glamour Puss) wave pattern on white shorts.

The Marques’ Almeida SS17 collection was sumptuous, punk, eclectic and inspired by ‘real girls’ according to designers Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida. Baroque-inspired

Tommy Hilfiger Resene Biscay

Versus Versace Resene Cut Glass

prints mixed with ruched metallics, and silky torn negligées created an unexpectedly cohesive aesthetic. Denim items had oversized cuts and exaggeratedly distressed raw hems in light, youthful washes - akin to Resene Breathless.

Military themes were predominant at Each X Other, taking in concepts from camo print to berets. The SS17 collection was small and curated, with each piece having a distinct purpose in broadening the message of the collection. Featuring precise tailoring, and classic cuts, the modern feel came from subtle raw edged denim, stretch jersey dresses and printed hoodies. Light wash denim, much like Resene Blue Moon, added youth to the collection and balanced the refined palette.

Colours available from

Resene ColorShops

www.resene.co.nz

0800 737 363

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BENDON

AMANDA ALEXANDER

Amanda Alexander Collections are producers of their own label of pjs, cashmere and soy candles.

All products made by them in New Zealand with the exception of the cashmere which is made in Nepal. Fabrics are sourced from Japan, USA and Europe. Candle vessels from Persia, Pink Onyx, Marble from Italy. All products available on line and through select stockists. To become a stockiest, email: amanda@amandaalexandercollections.com

Bendon is a world leader in intimate apparel and an iconic New Zealand company which revolutionised the lingerie industry through quality and innovation, creating a design philosophy that has grown stronger throughout its 68 year history. Bendon’s brands, including, Bendon, Bendon Man, Davenport, Heidi Klum Intimates, Heidi Klum Swim, Heidi Klum Man, Evollove, Fayreform, Hickory, Lovable, Pleasure State and Stella McCartney Lingerie, are sold in over 4,000 doors across 34 countries in addition to a growing network of 52 company-owned Bendon retail and outlet stores in Australia, New Zealand, and the United Kingdom.

For more information visit, www.bendongroup. com or contact Kirstin Sweeney for wholesale on +64 9 2571627 or kirstin.sweeney@bendon.com.

CRANE BROTHERS Crane Brothers was founded by Murray Crane and takes a contemporary approach to classic tailoring. With a team of around twenty employees and two stores in New Zealand and a showroom in Sydney. For more information or enquiries please contact info@crane-brothers.com or visit us at 2/4 High Street, Auckland.

DENIM

In 2017, Levi’s® New Zealand will launch the locally created Live in Music campaign, as part of their global Live in Levi’s® campaign. Levi’s® has a long standing partnership with Music and this campaign is to celebrate all of the individuals that together create the local music industry – from the front man to the music fan. Auckland Music Fan Kane Kvasnicka features in the campaign, with a staggering 400+ live gig notches under his belt and as a fan of Levi’s® jeans it was a perfect fit for him to be one of thirteen talent from around New Zealand and Australia selected to be a part of the campaign. Follow Kane’s story at: levis.co.nz.

10 I December/January 2017

FASHION COLOURS FROM RESENE ENERGI Energi is a full-service agency that’s main focus is creating fresh and differentiated activation campaigns. By staying true to your brand’s spirit, thinking digitally and socially; Energi have been giving New Zealand’s leading brands an edge for over 30 years. DemandScope is a 4-D shopper marketing methodology that Energi uses to create a competitive advantage for clients. This approach integrates shopper demand chain analysis from multiple perspectives including; relevance, marketplace salience, desirability, and shopper behaviour. It is also used as a diagnostic tool to measure brand performance and identify demand chain opportunities for enhancement.

For more information visit www.energi.co.nz

Find the colours you love in The Range 2018 Fashion Colours Collection from Resene. It has the latest on trend colours for 2017-2018 and beyond with favourite Resene colours and neutrals.

Use them to inspire your colour choices and dress up your place, retail or show space. Each colour has suggested complementary colours to help you get started on your perfect colour combination.

View the latest colour trends online at www.resene.co.nz/range2018 or visit your Resene ColorShop for more inspiration and ideas.

NZ GIFT FAIRS New suppliers, new products, new opportunities. NZ Gift Fairs are the largest and longest running national trade events for the gift and homeware industry. Held three times a year, the Gift Fairs attract thousands of buyers ready to source the very latest brands, products and designs that are shaping the retail industry. Be the first to preview samples, secure new product lines and place orders for the new season. Also featuring Kiwi Quarter – celebrating NZ made products, and Design Exchange – a launch pad for new and upcoming designers. For more information, visit www.giftfairs.co.nz or call 0800 367 976.

INTERNATIONAL FASHION GROUP

For over a decade International Fashion Group (IFG) has curated the most premium fashion labels from across the globe, emerging as the Industry leader in launching and establishing international designer labels in the New Zealand market.

Auckland’s dedicated and professional team of industry experts brings AG Adriano Goldschmied, PAIGE, IRO, Grey Jason Wu, Grey State and Interval to a portfolio of local retailers, ensuring that the NZ market gets only the most sought after, luxurious, and exclusive international fashion.

From powerhouse branding, customer service and public relations, through to sales, logistics and retail strategy, IFG’s multifaceted nature provides European and American labels an unrivalled and home grown playing field across NZ retailers.

LIZ MITCHELL

Celebrated for her bespoke tailoring and couture practice, Liz Mitchell is using her passion for sustainability and local production to create timeless pieces for a selection of loyal clients. The focus is on quality, and as an ambassador for the Campaign for Wool, Mitchell takes every opportunity to spread the word about the importance of keeping our local wool industry alive and well. Liz Mitchell hopes to continue to support the local industry rather than focussing on exporting our top quality wool, leaving New Zealand with less than perfect fibre to work with.

To learn more visit www.lizmitchell.co.nz.

HERMES Hermes New Zealand was first established in 1944. Their latest generation of leather designs and new brands are not to be missed. Hermes NZ houses a number of brands including; Hermes Designer Luxury Leather, De Lux by Hermes and Zeus by Hermes Unisex canvas leather.

For more information, visit www.hermesnz.nz or call 09259 0099.

JANE DANIELS

KATE OF ARCADIA

Kate Of Arcadia uses NZ farmed and produced deer leather. Each bag is uniquely made to order via their website and takes a few days to create and send out. With luxury and high-end bags in high demand, it is important to have a point of difference and stand out. Working in a small studio, the team said they aren’t very good at following trends and rather create handbags that they would use, over copying what some luxury international brand did last season. All hardware is done by hand, cutting by hand, even the swing tags are done by hand. The latest collection has introduced gold hardware and was inspired by shapes. For more information, visit www.kateofarcadia.com.

MENSWEAR Ambler & Co are designers and marketers of quality menswear and womenswear. Ambler & Co offer a wide range of business and leisure brands with the choice of classical and contemporary fashion styling. Innovative in its use of textiles, colour and style, Ambler & Co has maintained a leading edge by continually searching out the best in overseas trends. Maintaining top brands is their marketing strength, and by sticking to the top quality ethos. All of which have been known over many years by discerning, quality conscious buyers in New Zealand and Australia. For more information, visit www.ambler.co.nz.

Jane Daniels is a well established designer whose collections epitomise high quality, edgy and well tailored contemporary pieces.

All garments are made in New Zealand. Jane travels to Europe twice annually to personally select fabrics that will be exclusive head of the Northern Hemisphere.There are three flagship stores throughout New Zealand in Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch, with a select group of retailers who fit the JD ethos. apparelmagazine.co.nz

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RADICOOL KIDS Radicool Kids is a New Zealand lifestyle brand for kids aged 0-10 years. Inspired by a unique mix of surf, skate and street influences; they aim to create a little fun and a whole lot of cool amongst the chaos of being a kid in a modern world. The brand is thankful for all of its supporters over the past year. “It means the world to us that you love Radicool and it’s because of you guys that we are able to keep bringing you the most epic collections each season. We have so many exciting things happening here at Radicool HQ.” The new year is packed with goodness, starting with the release of their biggest and best Autumn/Winter 17 collection.

NICK VON K Nick Von K is an Auckland based jewellery designer renowned for his seasonal collections which often show at NZ Fashion Week. His aesthetic ranges from feminine to fantasy to rock n’ roll, and often includes highly detailed finishing. He also works with organic materials such as mother of pearl shell, which is hand carved and then set with sterling silver. Selling alongside the likes of Stolen Girlfriends and Karen Walker, Nick Von K has secured a spot as one of New Zealand’s leading fashion jewellery brands.

Check them out at: www.nickvonk.com

P.E NATION Pip Edwards and Claire Tregoning launched P.E. Nation to share their idea of an energetic, functional and luxe active brand. The dynamic duo realised the idea had legs – sexy, sporty legs and an increasingly popular market. Inspired by their own busy lifestyles and obsession with tomboyish fashion, P.E Nation defines a new genre of activewear. Combining technical qualities with retro inspired designs and luxe streetwear, P.E Nation is a considered and stylish performance brand fit for an everyday urban lifestyle. Blurring the lines between street and sportswear, there is a style available for every stage of an active lifestyle.

For more information, visit: www.pe-nation.com.

OTAGO KNITWEAR

Otago Knitwear’s woollen garments are all made in New Zealand. The company uses fine merino wool, angora, New Zealand merino possum and lamb’s wool to produce an extensive range of quality garments and accessories. New Zealanders recognise Otago Knitwear’s various labels for being well made and long wearing – favourite items that feel great to wear and don’t disappoint. Based in Dunedin, Otago Knitwear was established in 1999.

Today, it employs 17 people, including a team of highly-skilled machinists, and knitwear technicians who have the knowledge and experience to produce some of the finest knitted garments in the world.

For more information, visit: www.otagoknitwear.co.nz.

QUILTING Nutex Wholesalers Ltd is the largest supplier of patchwork and quilting fabric into the New Zealand industry. They are constantly updating and adding to their range with the latest in overseas trends. With designs from companies all over the world, including some of the industry’s best such as Northcott and Riley Blake Designs. For more information, visit www.nutex.co.nz.

12 I December/January 2017

SABATINI Designed and made in Auckland for more than 60 years, SABATINI prides itself on producing quality, fashion forward collections season to season. The new winter 2017 collection is available in leading boutiques throughout New Zealand and Australia from 1st February 2017, featuring SABATINI’s signature Merino Wool and Leather combination jumpers, jackets and coats. Winter collections focus on a foundation of quality Merino Wool yarns, delivered in store with the Woolmark stamp of approval, a partnership held with SABATINI since 1967. Each garment is hand cut, hand linked and hand finished in-house, making each piece special and something kept and treasured for life.

TRISTRAM EUROPEAN Tristram European is the Home of Volkswagen on the Shore. With the Skoda franchise joining Tristram European in March 2017 and an additional new Volkswagen dealership opening in West Auckland late 2017. Tristram European offers a boutique dealership experience with Concierge Service, however remains the fastest growing dealership in New Zealand. Always offering a great range of Makes & Models as well as New Volkswagen vehicles. Be spoilt for choice and visit www.tristrameuropean.co.nz Email: general@tristrameuropean.co.nz

WEARCARE HANGERS Wearcare Hangers Ltd was established in 1992 with the vision of supplying top quality hangers to New Zealand businesses. They strive to ensure their offer is the best available for the New Zealand market including a 100 percent locally manufactured range plus imported wooden and nonslip hangers from various overseas partners.

Wearcare Hangers have serviced over 2,500 businesses, helping retailers display their garments in style. They also work with clients in the fabric and carpet industries where showing off their samples is a core requirement.

All orders big and small are welcomed.

“Service to Customers comes First”, they welcome all enquiries at: sales@wearcare.co.nz.

UMSIKO

Founded in 2015 by Iona Woolgrove, Umsiko is a New Zealand owned and operated fashion manufacturing house located in the heart of Wellington. Providing New Zealand’s fashion industry with quality design and manufacturing from its production headquarters.

With a team of pattern making experts in a wide range of apparel, they pay close attention to detail. The team uses careful planning and a detailed knowledge of the industry to ensure their patterns meet the highest production standards.

Umsiko works closely with their clients to achieve their vision with outstanding results. For more information, visit www.umsiko.co.nz.

YBe Jenny Lyn Walker is the award winning Fashion Designer of YBe. YBe specialises in unique pieces called Sculptural Fashion Art. Inspired by art, culture and nature these can be worn and displayed as artwork. Handpainting, printing, weaving, quilting and applique are incorporated.

YBe’s custom design pieces are made to help each individual to “be yourself”. Weddings and special occasions are YBe’s forte, creating garments for women, men and children. Works of superior quality are also offered for ready to wear, cultural groups, as well as film and theatre costuming.

For more information visit www.ybe.co.nz or call 0212317447.

XPANDA SECURITY

Xpanda Security has been providing concertina doors, security gates and specialised crime barriers in New Zealand for over 20 years. Providing a nationwide service, Xpanda Security prides itself on providing the most impenetrable security products available.

Peter will meet you on site to advise and explain the best solution for your urgent security needs. www.xpanda.co.nz or call 09 443 7021

VITAG Helping retailers outsmart thieves and minimise loss since 2003. Stay ahead of the bad guys.

Vitag provides world-leading security systems and software, consultants who really know their stuff, and a nationwide network of engineers ready to deliver and support your retail business.

From simple loss prevention systems to in-store business intelligence solutions, Vitag security systems are hard at work in almost every retail sector – from fashion, consumer electronics and pharmaceutical, to sports, office supplies and DIY. For more information visit www.vitag.nz.

ZENITH FASHION AGENCIES Zenith Fashion Agencies Ltd was established in 2005 to provide management services to the Neckwear Division of Ambler & Co Ltd. This relationship continues to work successfully alongside the ZENITH accessories business supplying the SILANDRO brand to menswear stores throughout the country. Products include scarves, socks, cufflinks, pocket silk hankies, bags and wallets. For wholesale inquiries contact sales@zenties.co.nz or 09 630 4921.

FA S H I O N A G E N C I E S L I M I T E D

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7– 9 FEB 2017 GDS-ONLINE.COM

16 I

For all GDS information and advice on travel and accommodation options, December/January 2017contact Robert Laing, Messe Reps. & Travel, 09 5219200, robert@messereps.co.nz