Apparel Magazine | November 2020

$ 10.95

NOVEMBER 2020 I VOL 53 I NO 11

editor ' s note

swatch watch

IS YOUR CLOSET VEGAN FRIENDLY? Could the new industry disruptor be Vegan leather or even AirCarbon? It sounds almost as confrontational as plant-based meat, but whatever the labelling a new generation is looking for eco-friendly and sustainable alternatives.

Take vegan leather; it is often made from polyurethane, a polymer that can be made to fulfil any designers wishlist. It can also be made from innovative and sustainable materials. Materials such as pineapple leaves, cork, apple peels, other fruit waste, and recycled plastic. It's versatile enough for every cut and colour from jackets to dresses.

AirCarbon has taken things a step further. Newlight Technologies, Inc a biotechnology company based in Southern California dedicated to making materials that improve the environment, has launched the Covalent AirCarbon line of personal fashion and electronics accessories made with carbon-negative materials.

Covalent AirCarbon fashion products – including handbags, wallets, sunglasses, computer sleeves, and iPhone sleeves – are made with AirCarbon biomaterial.

Every day, natural microorganisms in the ocean consume air and greenhouse gases dissolved in saltwater to produce a meltable energy storage material inside of their cells.

Over ten years of research, Newlight has learned how to replicate this process on land, synthesising AirCarbon by combining natural microorganisms from the ocean with air, saltwater, and recaptured methane gas, with 100 percent of the company’s power usage offset by renewable energy credits.

“We believe that consumers should have the ability to understand the environmental impact of their products on a specific, verified, and actionable basis,” said Newlight CEO Mark Herrema.

“By working with SCS, one of the most well-respected firms in the carbon accounting field, we were able to generate a third party report on the specific carbon footprint of every single Covalent product, and thereby give consumers the information they need to decide for themselves what kind of impact they want to have.”

“Covalent products are unique,” said Keith Killpack,

ON THE COVER STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB Photographer: Andre Kong Model: Kaleb Orchard CHAIRMAN

PUBLISHER ADMIN/SUBSCRIPTIONS EDITORIAL DIRECTOR EDITOR EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE CONTENT MANAGERS GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM

SCS Technical Director, Environmental Certification Services division.

“By recovering and repurposing greenhouse gases as a resource to make materials, in concert with the use of renewable power and recycled packaging, Newlight has achieved its goal of offering the marketplace a net carbon-negative product.”

The negative carbon footprint verification brings Newlight one step closer to achieving its mission: to use AirCarbon to help end climate change and plastics pollution and start to restore the world’s ecosystems through the use of carbon-negative materials inspired by naturally regenerative, carbon-negative processes found in nature.

Every Covalent product is given a unique carbon date: this is the time when air and carbon were transformed into the AirCarbon used to make that specific product.

With this Carbon Date, they apply the world’s first IBM blockchain-based carbon tracking technology to track every step of the fabrication process for that product, including its independently verified carbon footprint.

The journey for AirCarbon began in a garage, are you ready for the next eco-friendly trend, the next innovation?

A soft lightweight fabric made from woven layers of 100% cotton.

Available in a range of colourways and patterns.

100% MERINO – WHISKEY Great quality merino made in Australia in a certified factory to ensure the highest of quality for a great price.

tania@reviewmags.com PS You'll have noticed a change in editor this month as unfortunately, Caitlan is on medical leave as she has fractured her back in an accident.

Thank you for the messages of support, and we all wish her well for a speedy recovery and to see her back at her desk as soon as possible.

Peter Mitchell Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Janet Guan - janet@reviewmags.com Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento Debby Wei

2 I November 2020

DOUBLE GAUZE – DUSTY GREEN/PINK

ISSN 1171-2287

Suite 9, Level 3, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand +64 9 304 0142 This magazine is published monthly under license. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to Review Publishing Co Ltd. This magazine is a platform for the industry and may include content that expresses views and opinions by contributing writers. Content is attributed to the author, and these opinions and the view/s are those of the author/s. They do not necessarily reflect the official policy or position of any other agency, organisation, employer or company. The opinions and material published in this edition are not necessarily those of the publishers unless expressly stated.

All material appearing in the magazine, website and social media platforms is copyright and may only be reproduced with the written consent of the publisher. Copyright 2020

CUSTOM PRINTED FABRIC Choose your fabric type, quantity and print and let For Fabric Sake take care of you.

ABOUT FOR FABRIC SAKE: For Fabric Sake supplies top quality fabrics across New Zealand to ensure its customers have an abundance of choice for whatever project they may have at hand.

For Fabric Sake offers custom fabric printing services as well as knit fabrics such as merino, and woven fabrics such as double gauze, poplin and linen. It's the one-stop-shop for all your textile needs.

CONTACT: +64 6 366 0820 www.forfabricsake.com sales@forfabricsake.com 36-38 Cambridge Street SOUTH, Levin.

&

94th edition

11 14.12.2020 Riva del Garda - Italy

fast five

NEW FROM M.A.C FOR DRAMATIC EVERYDAY LOOKS M.A.C has launched two collections just in time for party season.

The M.A.C True or False Lashes is a collection of ten reusable, natural, amplified and dramatic faux-lash styles to join its already iconic silhouettes.

Amp up your everyday look will a full collection of 20 shapes and sizes. The M.A.C Powerglass Plumping Lip Gloss is a high-shine lip gloss that instantly volumises the maximum hydration and long-term plumping power.

Precision application is built-in with an original curvaceous applicator that perfectly hugs top and bottom lips, swiping on sheer colour in a full spectrum of 18 shades.

MOOCHI PALETTE FIVE: MIRAGE As the warmth of Summer begins to roll in, moochi welcomes their most unique and exciting high summer collection to date. Inspired by sandy surroundings, palette five: mirage, embraces the use of luxurious natural fibres and organic neutral tones.

From muted olives, natural oatmeals to bright pops of neon pink and vibrant turquoise.

Shot amongst stunning dune landscapes of New Zealand's west coast, this palette cleverly plays on the reflective nature of "mirage" and the optical illusions created across the vast desert scape.

Bright bursts of colour evoke a sense of vibrant energy, of celebration, of excitement, while nonchalant neutrals hero throughout.

With luxurious lyocell, linen blends, soft cotton voiles, and lustrous viscose, moochi offers considered and wearable solutions for high summer.

Earthy hues set the mood of the palette, as the neutral colour of oatmeal marle is cleverly contrasted with black stripes in the standout suit set. Featuring the new faith blazer and glowed pant in a luxuriously breathable linen blend, this spectacularly modern and softly structured silhouette is set to command attention with its captivating stature. In stone, the softly knitted collected tee sweater and cotton layer skirt continue the neutrals story, offering a uniquely moochi twist on the summer set dressing.

The print of the palette expresses a fierce and independent nature.

Abstract by definition, this liquid animal print showcases tones of olive, lilac, lemon, bursting from their black and white base. The esteem dress heroes this print, with dramatic double layer puff sleeves complimenting the gathered frill skirt. The print extends to much loved moochi styles of the Region tee and Des pant delivering a variety of exciting yet versatile styling opportunities.

Effortless evening dressing is made easy, with the Area dress and top in a beautifully lightweight, soft to touch cotton. Tie-neck details and maxi length a-line shaping of the dress offer a theatrical flare, whilst the side splits give this a valuable element of wearability. The Region dress in bold bright pink floats softly against the body in its free-flowing silhouette, with blouson sleeves to finish the statement piece. Statement sleeves are showcased again in the captivated dress, with puff sleeves and delicately detailed viscose blended fabric giving a refined finish to the piece. Subtly contrasting, Acclaim dress and top explore the multi-tiered frill trend with floating layers giving movement with every stride.

Palette five: mirage, offers a visual expression of freedom, of exploration, and of spirited adventure.

Available in-store and online from Wednesday 18th November.

STILL WATERS RUN DEEP An ode to the ocean, Yu Mei's SS20/21 is a collection that speaks to ideas of calm resilience. This collection was designed at home, overlooking the Wellington Harbour - the stillness of the water's depths was encouraging at a time when the world felt upended.

Still Waters Run Deep is a gentle evolution of the Yu Mei DNA, driven by strong colours and subtle, sophisticated silhouettes.

New colours Poseidon, a true, deep navy and Pop Kelp a playful, bright take on pistachio are made to stand out against Shifting Sand, a fresh, neutral tone, rendered in canvas. Elsewhere, minimalist Black Nappa and Black Lamb

finishes represent Yu Mei's simple but meticulous approach to luxury, and ensure the brighter shades can still take centre stage.

Alongside the new tones, this is a collection of perfectly rendered small leather goods. They are pieces that walk the fine line between pragmatism and opulence and will take you from the powder room to the boardroom.

Yu Mei's design codes of functionality and organisation have evolved to the art of packing, streamlining all areas of the Yu Mei woman's life.

Yu Mei has reimagined their beloved Vi bagz by adding a removable scrunchie strap, while also introducing Sonja, an entirely new silhouette.

VANS AND MOMA DEBUT SECOND INSTALMENT HAS LANDED

Following the September debut, Vans are proud to launch the second instalment of their collaboration with The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA).

The latest iteration of the Vans and MoMA collaboration takes inspiration from impactful works of art by artists Edvard Munch, Jackson Pollock, Lybov Popova and Faith Ringgold.

"Our collaboration with MoMA is a true partnership that involved working together to select both the works and footwear to ensure an authentic connection between the art and the canvas footwear models we chose,” said Angie Dita, Vans Head of Global Footwear Design for Lifestyle Footwear.

"Faith Ringgold worked closely with both the Vans design and MoMA teams to story-tell through the details, bringing in quilted borders to

contextualise her work atop Vans."

A print version of Munch's work has been carefully captured on each of the canvas panels of the Vans Era, Old Skool backpack, short sleeve tee and pullover hoodie.

Pollock’s ‘One: Number 31, 1950’ has transformed the Vans Authentic with an all-over application.

Popova’s ‘Untitled, 1917’ has been applied to the Vans Sk8-Hi using each medial and lateral side to translate her avant-garde vision across the hi-top model.

Curators worked closely with Ringgold to uplift her feminist poster art including ‘Woman Free Yourself 1971’ to the left side of the Vans Era while ‘Freedom Woman Now 1971’ is on the right. Ringgold’s powerful words can be found on a reversible bucket hat and a long sleeve tee.

COME ALONG FOR THE RIDE… PUMA is adding a fresh extension to the Rider family - the Cruise Rider.

Featuring two fresh colourways with a bold design, PUMA ambassador, Winnie Harlow takes her style sky-high with this new shoe that is higher, bigger and better than any Rider yet.

"What I love most about them is that I don't have to worry what I pair them with, they go with everything," stated Harlow.

The Cruise Rider is a women’s

specific style made for those who are making big moves. This kick is a step above the rest with fun colour blocking, a dynamic material mix, and a stacked outsole. The silhouette features a slightly higher midsole with sculpting details, a TPU piece in the back, and Rider foam for ultimate comfort. A mesh and nylon upper with suede overlays in vibrant colours like teal, bright yellow, and a dash of pink adding a playful touch to the design.

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I5

packaging

THINK PACKAGING

The brainchild of Mat Bogust, Think Packaging was born from his living room table in Nelson in mid-2010.

The brand is heavily inspired by terrible packaging in the world. “We are very much design-led structural packaging designers here,” explained Bogust.

“We aim to give inspiration and innovation to the packaging world.”

The team at Think Packaging hand-select production partners who are best fit for their ideas, which means their clients get the best results, and are not tied to the limitations of a particular printer or producer. The self-proclaimed Cardboard Engineer added that they collaborate with anyone from small emerging brands to large well-established businesses and agencies.

“Working over all industries and product ranges is why it's so enjoyable. The variety and scope of our products keeps us smiling everyday,” he said.

“We just love making stuff that’s cool.”

Bogust’s favourite service they offer is their bespoke cardboard engineering and packaging design. In this, everything is crafted to suit the specific product. They do not do any cookie-cutter designs or factory standards.

Customisation is crucial for packaging and its impact on experience for your customers, Bogust added that customers notice customised packaging now more than ever.

If you think your packaging needs a makeover, email mat@thinkpack.co.nz or visit www.thinkpack.co.nz.

FOOD PACKAGING

TO A GREENER FUTURE beedeebags.co.nz www.naturalpak.co.nz

6 I November 2020

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COVID-19 RETAIL DASHBOARD: MONTHLY MARKET ANALYSIS OF GLOBAL TRENDS How the new EDITED interactive charts give retailers global insights into the COVID-19 pandemic with real-time data.

edited

(fig.1)

B

usinesses will need data as an ally to make the best decisions for their trading category during these uncertain times while being as reactive as possible. So we created an interactive coronavirus retail dashboard for retailers to see the effects of the virus on the market in real-time and how regions are recovering from the pandemic.

To support retailers with the second wave causing new lockdown restrictions in key regions, we’ve compiled a top-level analysis of the effects of COVID-19 on arrivals, discounting and sell outs over the past month.

KEY TAKEAWAYS

• September provided a much-needed boost to arrivals which have been impacted by COVID-19 throughout 2020. However, in all regions except Italy, newness in October fell both MoM and YoY. • In the lead up to peak discounting season, with many retailers offering early Black Friday offers, reductions are sneaking up. Italy is aligning the number of products reduced with the proportions noted in the first wave while the US and Spain are going deeper in discounting.

• The US has implemented the most aggressive discounting strategy with the steepest average reduction and highest discount proportion – 40 percent and 59 percent. Germany offered the shallowest average reduction at 34 percent and Italy the lowest proportion at 42 percent.

• Products associated with the ‘pandemic wardrobe’ during the first outbreak continue to sell through in October with slippers, sneakers and sleepwear achieving various levels of success across most regions.

(fig.2)

US: ARRIVALS DROP, DISCOUNTS REMAINS HIGH

Though new deliveries were still greater than at the height of the pandemic, October arrivals dipped 15 percent MoM and 18 percent YoY. (fig.1) With Black Friday sales looming, the US recorded the highest discounting levels across the analysed regions, with more than half of the assortment reduced and an average discount percentage steeper now than during lockdown. (fig.2, 3) Coming off the back of Halloween, items that lend themselves to costumes such as bodysuits and hair accessories saw high sell out activity.

Footwear’s winning category, slippers, saw success in this region alongside denim outerwear – mirroring the mixed demand for daywear and comfort dressing with restrictions relaxed, yet WFH still encouraged.

8 I November 2020

(fig.3)

PRODUCTS WITH THE MOST SELL OUT ACTIVITY YOY Percentage year-on-year increase outlined • Bodysuits +79 percent • Hair accessories +64 percent • Slippers +61 percent • Denim outerwear +51 percent

(fig.4)

(fig.5)

UK: COLD WEATHER DRESSING AND COMFORT IS KEY Following September’s surge in newness, arrivals plummet to May levels, down 19 percent MoM and 22 percent YoY. (fig.4) With UK Black Friday spending predicted to increase online by 40 percent as stores shutter according to Internet Retailing, discounts are starting to align with US levels with 55 percent of products reduced at an average of 39 percent. (fig.5, 6) Gloves are seeing growth as it provides a greater sense of hygiene, comfort and personal safety, which is translating to sell outs in this region.

As the temperature drops, hats are seeing success while pandemic dressing essential items such as sneakers and nighties are still sought after.

(fig.6)

PRODUCTS WITH THE MOST SELL OUT ACTIVITY YOY Percentage year-on-year increase outlined • Gloves +111 percent • Hats +98 percent • Sneakers +94 percent • Nighties +91percent

(fig.7)

GERMANY: SMALL LUXURIES AND ENTRY-LEVEL PRICE POINTS THRIVE New arrivals are down 10 percent MoM and 27 percent YoY. (fig.7)

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I9

Discounting continues to be conservative with the percentage of assortment reduced pulled back compared to previous months. The discount depth sits lower than other regions at 30 percent, indicating German retailers are strategising to preserve margin ahead of the upcoming sales period.

Items at an accessible price point that serve as popular gifting options such as small leather goods, hair accessories and gloves saw success throughout October. (fig.8, 9) Duffle coats had the highest increase in sell outs versus last year. This and similar shapes will continue to gain popularity as the temperature drops and people want to spend time outdoors over lockdown.

(fig.8)

PRODUCTS WITH THE MOST SELL OUT ACTIVITY YOY

(fig.9)

Percentage year-on-year increase outlined • Duffle coats +189 percent • Small accessories +180 percent • Hair accessories +177 percent • Gloves +160 percent

(fig.10)

ITALY: ARRIVALS SOAR AND THE HOMEWEAR WARDROBE PREVAILS The only market within the regions analysed to record an increase in product arrivals – newness soared 6 percent MoM and 42 percent YoY. (fig.10) Discounting followed last year’s trajectory, with the percent of reduced assortment trending down to 43 percent. Though lower than previous months and 2019, the average reduction aligned closer to the discount levels during the first wave. (fig.11, 12) Sell outs were indicative of the homewear wardrobe trend. Sandals and pajamas confirmed the ongoing need for comfort and casual products, while house dress silhouettes that can be worn both in and outdoors were a success story. (fig.11)

10 I November 2020

(fig.12)

PRODUCTS WITH THE MOST SELL OUT ACTIVITY YOY Percentage year-on-year increase outlined • Sandals +254 percent • Wrap dresses +248 percent • Maxi dresses +220 percent • Pajamas +174 percent

(fig.13)

SPAIN: DISCOUNTING IS DEEPER THAN THE FIRST LOCKDOWN Similar to the US and UK, arrivals in Spain also peaked in September and then dropped in October.

Deliveries in this region were down 24 percent MoM and 11 percent YoY. (fig.13) Following this region returning to lockdown and a nation-wide curfew instated, discounting has swelled to further encourage online sales. The average reduction rate is on par with the UK – higher than last year and when the region experienced its first outbreak.

The proportion of assortment reduced remains high, yet on par with 2019 levels. (fig.14, 15) Daywear items saw the highest increase in sell outs YoY with consumers favouring everyday items such as jeans, boots and jumpsuits. We can expect the pendulum to swing back in favour of more casual and loungewear-centric trends with consumers required to spend more time at home over November.

PRODUCTS WITH THE MOST SELL-OUT ACTIVITY YOY

(fig.14)

Percentage year-on-year increase outlined • Boots +261percent • Shirt dresses +221percent • Jumpsuits +271percent • Jeans +204 percent

(fig.15)

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I 11

emerging designer

DANNI BARNES-ANDERSON

Designer Danni Barnes-Anderson comes from the little Whanganui, she then moved to Wellington to follow her dreams of working amongst the fashion industry. After a year into her degree she found herself quite put off.

“I was so oblivious to the fast fashion industry and was shocked when I found out how this truly operates,” expressed Barnes-Anderson.

When Barnes-Anderson watched The True Cost, a documentary on the fashion industry, it really changed her perspective on the career path she had previously been so set on. As she continued her fashion degree and working a part time retail job, she found a new side of the fashion industry that she was interested in.

“Often customers would buy and return over and over, never really finding the right fit, or paying crazy amounts of money to have pieces altered,” stated BarnesAnderson.

This realisation excited Barnes-Anderson, as she knew she could make clothes that were a custom fit, allowing

each wearer to feel their absolute best when wearing Danni Rose garments.

In her fourth and final year of her honours paper, Barnes-Anderson wrote a business plan for how she would run a small custom-made business.

“I dreamed of creating a brand that had sustainable practices as the core values but was also affordable for women of all ages. I wanted to focus on custom-made pieces and allow the customer to have an input in the design process.”

Customers are able to choose their fabric whilst offering minor design adjustments from sizing to style. Upon her graduation, she continued to offer this custom-made service whilst still working at her part time job. Within a year, Barnes-Anderson was able to shift her focus completely on her label and is now working fulltime for her brand.

Recently Barnes-Anderson hired her first employee, who is able to help her with all things social media. The

Danni Rose website is currently in the works also, with launch set to be in the new year.

“I do all the designing, patterning making and sewing by myself. Many people find it surprising, but I actually love sewing, this will always be my main role in the brand.”

Danni Rose offers quality, comfortable and timeless garments that are loved by all ages. Danni Rose aims to offer staple pieces that customers wear over and over.

Anderson-Barnes mostly works with linen because it is a more sustainable textile, but also working with linen allows the option for customers to choose their fabric for their custom-made garments.

Anderson-Barnes’ current favourite design is the Gather Up Dress.

“The very first one was made for myself in an olive linen, and I’m still so in love with this design!”

For more information, email dannirose.barnes@gmail.com.

I dreamed of creating a brand that had sustainable practices as the core values but was also affordable for women of all ages. I wanted to focus on custom-made pieces and allow the customer to have an input in the design process.

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I 13

beauty spot

ADVANCED RENEWAL NIGHT SERUM

Promote glowing, healthy skin from dawn to dusk with Living Nature’s new Advanced Renewal Night Serum and award-winning Active Brightening Serum, the perfect skincare duo.

Formulated with 100 percent natural botanicals in New Zealand, the Active Brightening Serum works to minimise the appearance of pigmentation and uneven skin tone throughout the day. While you sleep, the Advanced Renewal Night Serum targets signs of aging, while energizing and renewing skin.

Living Nature is New Zealand’s original natural skincare and cosmetic company, and its internationally awarded products aid in achieving beautiful skin, naturally.

For information email solutions@livingnature.com or visit www.livingnature.com.

ORGANIC LIP BALM RASPBERRY + ROSEHIP

Made with Aroha in New Zealand and housed in cardboard push up tubes.

Aotearoad’s Organic Lip Balm in Raspberry gives your lips a hint of colour with a soft, sweet raspberry flavour. Packed with organic butters and rosehip oil to give you soft, supple lips every day.

The lip balm is ocean safe and once finished, you can pop the empties straight into your compost bin. Ethical, affordable, effective and socially responsible beauty products for everyone.

Aotearoad change starts with the little things.

To become a stockist visit www.aotearoad.com or email hello@aotearoad.com.

WATERMELON GLOW SLEEPING MASK Perfect for all skin-types, the Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Sleeping Mask has an abundance of awards under its belt and is a beauty favourite for skincare enthusiasts. Made from real watermelon, hyaluronic acid, AHA, and pumpkin extract, it is extremely hydrating whilst fighting fine lines, wrinkles, dark spots, exfoliates dead skin, softens texture, clarify pores and repairs the skin’s overall health.

Free of parabens, mineral oil, sulfates, silicones, phthalates, drying alcohols, synthetic dyes. Vegan and cruelty-free.

To stock Glow Recipe, email sales@glowrecipe.com or for more information visit www.glowrecipe.com.

14 I November 2020

TOOTH TABLETS

It’s time to upgrade your toothpaste.

DENTtabs’ Tooth Tablets is the next step towards a more sustainable and ecofriendly oral hygiene routine.

DENTtabs Tooth Tablets are packaged in certified home compostable packaging and will not leave your teeth feeling fuzzy during the day. Treat your home garden while also leaving your teeth smooth and gums healthy.

Better for the planet and your mouth.

For more information or to become a stockist email hello@toothtablets.com or visit www.toothtablets.com.

BROW DEFINERS

Mellow’s Brow Definers are the perfect double-ended tool to create the perfect brow tailored to you. Use the spoolie end to brush your brows into your preferred direction and shape and let the pencil end to do the rest. The smooth formula of the pencil end allows the product to glide on with ease, and effortlessly fill in the sparse areas of your brow by creating brow hairs with the simple flick of your wrist.

For more information, visit www.mellowcosmetics.com, or email info@mellowcosmetics.com.

PARABEN FREE

VEGAN

CRUELTY FREE

www.mellowcosmetics.com apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 15

in detail

SILK & STEEL Apparel had the pleasure to catch up with Sarah Cotterall, founder and creative director of Silk & Steel, about her new Summer 20/21 collection, Talisman.

Talisman was designed during the first lockdown and was inspired by events close to the heart.

“My daughter, Ella, was gifted a Talisman by her grandmother, which was her great grandmother’s ring on a chain. Ella wears this every day,” said Cotterall.

This beautiful gesture inspired this heartfelt collection, during these times, Cotterall believes that everyone should have a special Talisman in their lives.

This collection has a modern yet vintage feel.

It was created with the intention of the pieces becoming heirlooms that can be passed down from generation to generation for years to come.

“The idea is that pieces can be worn alone or layered together and mixed with designs from other collections. All of our collections are designed so the wearer can seamlessly build their own Silk & Steel story across various collections.”

Each piece is made in sterling silver and handset with aligned gemstones that hold healing properties.

Pieces are plated in rhodium and 14k gold.

The collection includes four meaningful symbols and aligned gemstones which carry the same healing properties.

SWALLOW – AQUAMARINE – HOPE This talisman features a swallow which represents loyalty, freedom, and hope. Historically, the swallow carried great symbolic value for the brave. Sailors would have a swallow tattooed on their body before setting out on a voyage and the second on their return home. Seeing swallows was a sign they were nearing shore, leading to the symbol of hope and good luck.

Aquamarine is an optimistic stone of hope and courage, it enables us to move forward and trust each moment we are in.

SNAKE – BLACK SPINEL – STRENGTH

16 I November 2020

This talisman features a snake curled into the shape of an infinity symbol, which represents enduring health, power, strength, and overall wellbeing.

Black Spinel is a protective stone that helps repel negativity. Strengthening our intuition to balance our emotions.

STARS – WHITE TOPAZ – DREAM This talisman features five stars, which are symbols set to guide us. A star is a symbol of hope and truth and to view a starry sky inspires the imagination.

White topaz is an intuitive stone that embodies the energy of truth and spirit. It is said to help support in implementing great dreams.

HEART – ROSE QUARTZ – LOVE This talisman features a heart, the symbol of love and the purest emotion.

Rose Quartz is the stone of universal love.

It restores trust and harmony in relationships, encouraging unconditional love. It purifies and opens the heart at all levels to promote love, selflove, friendship, deep inner healing and feelings of peace.

All styles within the Talisman collection is new, Silk & Steel is using their signature hoop with spike detail for the earrings and have released a new statement cocktail ring, which their customers always love.

A Talisman is said to have magical powers that bring luck and protection to its wearer. They carry powerful symbols that inspire and invoke guiding and protective qualities.

Cotterall has named the vintage-inspired statement cocktail ring and hoop earrings after her daughter Ella Grace.

This meaningful collection is available as pendant necklaces, hoop earrings and signet rings.

Available for wholesale now.

To become a stockist or for more information, email Sarah at sarah@silkandsteel.co.nz or call her on +64 21 517175.

colour trending

C

ut-outs, slits and peepholes have been gracing the runways this Spring with many fashion designers hopping on to this trend whilst putting their own twist onto it.

Cut-outs have been reimagined in inventive ways this season and it looks like it’s not stopping any time soon. Particular shapes of cut-outs flatter different body types so when saying ‘yes’ to the ‘CUT IT OUT’ trend, designers must create with diverse body sizes in mind.

Zuhair Murad’s ready-to-wear Spring collection for 2021 was inspired by the current dreams of travel and events. This heavily embellished red-carpet gown in a shade like Resene Family Tree features flattering symmetrical cut outs just at the chest. With a large slit at the skirt of the dress, allowing it to pick up every strut with ease. Although red carpet-style events are still incredibly restricted overseas, there are still ways we can incorporate a ball gown into our wardrobe.

Designed for the ‘strong and opiniated female’, Monot designer Eli Mizrahi is dedicated to creating garments that are both sexy and sophisticated. This

one shoulder halter-style floor-length dress takes the ‘cut-outs’ trend to the next level. In a classic and unassuming black shade like Resene Charcoal, Mizrahi lets the shape of the dress do the talking.

Designer Noahiro Fujisaki took functional pieces and added a streetwear edge. This collection

by Meanswhile plays with interesting concepts of volume, proportion, and asymmetry. This look is a unique take of the ‘cut-outs’ trend, with the model being fully covered despite the cut-outs being prominent. The brown billowing poncho in hue like Resene Rebel, features black zip detailing diagonally across the poncho. The zips are not just for show, they are fully functioning, allowing the wearer to alter how big of a ‘cut-out’ they would like.

Sandro’s ready-to-wear Spring 2021 collection put the ‘funk’ back into knitwear. Although knits are not a preferred textile for Spring pieces, Sandro was able to incorporate it into this collection easily with the help of the ‘cut-outs’ trend. Sandro’s designs were inspired by the 70s era of crocheted tank-tops and shorts in shades of muddy browns, yellow and beige. This knit

dress, in an orange shade like Resene Party Zone, features tightly packed pleats in a body-hugging fit.

With cut-outs at the torso connected to the plunge neckline with a circle hoop, it is a classic and timeless design in a fun yet wearable colourway.

Dramatic cut-out bodysuits stole the show in Mugler’s Spring 2021 collection. Artistic director, Casey Cadwallader was inspired by Thierry Mugler’s Spring 1999 Haute Couture collection that featured sliced dresses and suits. This white body suit, in a tone like Resene Alabaster, features over-the-top cut-outs paired with matching trousers with a unique mesh panelling at the thighs, it’s not a look for the fainthearted.

One of our favourite takes on the ‘cut-outs’ trend is seen in Moon Choi’s Spring 2021 collection. This reconstructed blazer in a brown hue like Resene Colins Wicket features a funky criss-cross collar, secured with two wooden toggle buttons and hackedof sleeves. The back of the reconstructed blazer is exposed – this is definitely not your usual blazer look.

ZUHAIR MURAD Resene Family Tree

MEANSWHILE Resene Rebel

MONOT Resene Charcoal

SANDRO Resene Party Zone

MUGLER Resene Alabaster

MOON CHOI Resene Colins Wicket

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mins with

LOUIE THE LABEL We had the chance to talk to Vanessa Seaford to gain some insight into her daily schedules, routines, and her journey with her clothing brand, Louie the Label.

Louie the Label creates both breast-feeding and nonbreast-feeding pieces to suit women with different needs. After launching its first basics collection, they are set to launch its second collection which feature shortsleeved shirts.

Louie the Label was established when Seaford was breast-feeding her son, Louie. Seaford was struggling to find simple, good quality, and comfortable pieces that could be dressed up or down for any occasion.

Many people know Seaford as one who loves basics; nothing too crazy or busy is what she is seen wearing all the time. However, when she couldn’t find anything simple that met the quality she was after- coupled with being a first-time mother, it meant she was desperate to find something that was comfortable yet still allowed

her to feel like herself.

The material used for all Louie the Label garments are made from 93 percent cotton and 7 percent spandex – making these pieces incredible comfortable for everyday wear as well as over a growing bump.

A typical day for Seaford begins with an early morning F45 class, followed by breakfast at home and dropping her son off to pre-school. Then, she is in the office with her emails grabbing most of her attention in the morning, followed by picking and packing orders.

Seaford is very involved in every process of her business, from packing orders to daily business admin.

Creating a label with clothing that is so versatile for any women in New Zealand, it’s her goal to continue to create gorgeous pieces and styles while watching her label grow organically.

For more information visit www.louiethelabel.co.nz or email Vanessa on hello@louiethelabel.co.nz.

The material used for all Louie the Label garments are made from 93 percent cotton and 7 percent spandex – making these pieces incredible comfortable for everyday wear as well as over a growing bump.

10 PIECES -COLLECTIONby

Fo r wh o l es a l e e n q u i res : b ra n d @ ta y l o r b o u t i q u e.c o. n z

taylorboutique.co.nz/10-pieces

in detail

FIFTH SEEKERS Fifth Seekers came into life in June this year after founder Amelia Nolan Wickstead realised she had always felt deeply about fashion.

“I have always been someone to wear different clothing to everyone else and wanted unique clothing which was trendy but also comfortable,” explained Wickstead.

For Wickstead, clothing should always be comfortable, and with comfort comes confidence.

Recently Fifth Seekers had just launched their presummer collection that features a few core staples - the Sunday Oversized Sweatshirt, the Casual Oversized T-shirt and the Everyday Bike Shorts, just to name a few.

“We want to focus on pieces that are going to work in your wardrobe for every season, so they can be worn year after year.”

When looking for a retailer to align with, Wickstead would love to find someone who always has the customer in mind whilst also sharing the same values as Fifth Seekers. In terms of the Fifth Seeker style, Wickstead aims to stick closely to her own tastes, putting ideas such was ‘what’s profitable’, or ‘what’s going to sell’ to rest.

“As someone who has always struggled to find clothing that fits ‘not the normal’ body shape, I aspire to be a brand that creates clothing that every

22 I November 2020

single person can incorporate into their wardrobe.”

Fifth Seekers represents a movement that comfort should always come first.

However, it should never come at a cost of sacrificing fashion and style.

When starting her brand, she realised the type of clothing she was looking for as a consumer were always overseas.

“I saw a gap in the New Zealand market and decided to give it a shot. If I feel this way towards fashion in New Zealand, I am sure there are other women who feel the same.”

On the journey of establishing the Fifth Seekers brand, their current collections feature classic styles and simple pieces.

“We have big plans in the future to start incorporating more of a unique style to our basics.”

Fifth Seekers uses high quality cotton for most of their pieces – their bike shorts uses a mixture of spandex and nylon with an extra thick waistband for support. Designed for the street and to be worn from day to night.

For more information visit www.fifthseekers.com or email Amelia at contact@fifthseekers.com.

GET INVOLVED

Fashion Council of New Zealand

The Fashion Council of New Zealand is a free industry resource for the fashion industry.

Membership is completely free. Join us in a space that gives you the opportunity to lobby, to network, and to collaborate.

designer focus

PAPA CLOTHING

It was after seeing how successfully my work was selling that I felt like I could step back into a designer role and motivate myself to start a business Designer Keva Rands is the intellect behind Papa Clothing. Growing up in Matapouri, Northland, she was surrounded by her parents who started a business making eco cleaning products. When her parents’ business started to kick off, they relocated to Auckland to open their first shop. This really shaped the designer Rands is today – she has a strong sense of responsibility to the environment and sustainable practice. On her mother’s side she has roots in Fiji, Hawaii, Samoa, and The Cook Island which all plays a huge role in her design inspiration and process.

Papa Clothing began in 2014 under a different name. It was a side project to Rands’ job at the time.

Rands was then approached by an old tutor to join a small collective of designers who were making and selling small capsule collections at a market on Cross Street. It was an opportunity for Rands to start designing again after a two-year break.

Rands studied at AUT – graduating in 2011. She began her journey by selling second-hand clothing for a couple of years. She then started designing clothes

24 I November 2020

that she could actually see a gap in the market for and started to pull inspiration from her community and family.

“It was after seeing how successfully my work was selling that I felt like I could step back into a designer role and motivate myself to start a business,” explained Rands.

The Papa Clothing team at the moment is just a team of one. In the next year, Rands would love to hire at least one person to help with the growing workload.

Currently, Papa Clothing has one stockist in Wellington, but most of its sales are through the Papa Clothing website. However, Rands is currently in the process of opening a studio in Avondale with Moana Fresh (run by Rands’ sister, Ahilapalapa) and artist Vaimala Urale who specialises in Pacific art. The studio has a store front which they plan to open up to the public monthly for pop-up sales.

Papa Clothing do not strictly sell by collections.

Oftentimes they release singular items or a few pieces throughout the year.

“I’m currently working on a coat and few other pieces that I’ll be releasing at the end of November.

As everything is made-to-order, the clothing I release has no expiration date. Once it’s been designed it will always be available to order through the website, just depending on what linens I can get a hold of at the time.”

Rands’ favourite item she has designed so far would be the Buffet Pants.

“Every single person who has bought a pair, including myself, just lives in them every day.”

The Buffet Pants are made from 100 percent linen, wide-legged, high-rised with an elastic waistband. The concept was to create a pair of pants that could be worn around the house or dressed up to wear at a party.

Rands is looking forward to her new adventure in Avondale, with the aim to make Papa Clothing a local community-based brand with global reach via their online channels.

For more information visit www.papaclothing.co.nz or email info@papaclothing.co.nz.

INVISIBILITY INVISIBILITY CREATES CREATES

NO NO OPPORTUNITY OPPORTUNITY Get your message to THE RIGHT market. +64 9 304 0142 EXT 712 | JANET@reviewmags.com

accessory alert

DANGEROUS GOODS JEWELLERY Apparel had the chance to catch up with Hannah Davis-Gray – the founder and designer of the handmade jewellery brand, Dangerous Goods Jewellery. Davis-Gray is a self-taught jeweller and creates all her wonderful designs, right here in Tāmaki Makaurau, Aotearoa.

Currently, Davis-Gray is the only person behind her brand. She designs and makes each unique piece of jewellery, all whilst managing her social media accounts and website. Oftentimes, she works with other creatives such as Zoe Dunster, Gab Stoddard and Lucia Taylor on photoshoots.

Davis-Gray began creating jewellery in her final year (2018) at Elam School of Fine Arts, where she completed her Bachelor of Fine Arts with Honours.

She created pieces for her friends, who then had a multitude of people asking them where they purchased their pieces.

“I like the anonymity that comes when practicing

26 I November 2020

under a title, but I still find it difficult to see myself as a brand. I think the way I practice is more akin to an artist’s practice,” explained Davis-Gray.

Her favourite Dangerous Goods Jewellery piece she has created so far, funnily, seems to change every week. Davis-Gray, although a jeweller herself, does not wear a lot of jewellery.

“I don’t actually wear jewellery very often and haven’t kept any pieces that I’ve made. I like making jewellery for other people and knowing that they treasure and carry something I have crafted.”

If Davis-Gray had to pin-point a ‘favourite’ piece she has made, it would be the ones she has made for her friends, as well as pieces she has made that has created new friendships during the process.

Davis-Gray’s design style is organic and textural.

“I embrace the imperfections and irregularities that come from my making process. They add to the unique qualities and character of each piece.”

Dangerous Goods Jewellery works exclusively with repurposed materials. Recycled metals, second-hand or lab-grown gems, thrifted pearls or beads, heirloom pieces, as well as some unconventional materials like plastic and glass. Dangerous Goods Jewellery's Burst Earrings, Maggie Ring and Rick Ring was recently worn by New Zealand pop star, Benee, in her latest music video for 'Kools'. A great nod to Kiwi's supporting everything homegrown.

Davis-Gray is currently working towards the final touches of a very modest showroom and studio space.

“This will mean I will soon have a space I can welcome people in to view pieces and discuss custom work.”

For more information about Dangerous Goods Jewellery, visit www.dangerousgoodsjewellery.com or email Hannah at dangerousgoodsjewellery@gmail.com.

edited

VEGANUARY: STRATEGIES FOR SUCCESS It's not too early to start preparing for the increasingly-popular vegan movement.

This year, Veganuary broke all records with 400,000 participants worldwide pledging to stick to a plantbased diet for the first month of the year. While the movement primarily affects the food industry, vegans are looking to incorporate their lifestyle into their wardrobes.

Vegans are shopping for cruelty-free cosmetics and spearheading the demand for alternatives to animalfree products, making Veganuary an increasingly important opportunity for retailers.

Get a head start on planning for the movement next year.

up 47 percent and 59 percent YoY, respectively.

Vegan alternatives are becoming more ingrained within mass market brands.

With people working from home and events cancelled, accessories have been a dormant category in 2020. Nevertheless, vegan options have still found their way into mass market assortments. Handbags are the dominant category, while entry-priced items such as belts and gloves are more accessible now. The latter is becoming an attractive area of investment, with gloves providing a sense of hygiene, comfort and personal safety.

WHY IT’S MORE IMPORTANT THAN EVER More people are taking the pledge At the end of October, the global Veganuary movement welcomed its one-millionth participant since 2014. Latin America and India experienced the steepest growth in supporters this year.

COVID-19 caused consumers to rethink lifestyle habits The World Health Organization (WHO) states 60 percent of all human pathogens and 75 percent of new or emerging infectious diseases originate from animals. Therefore there’s an additional demand for vegan alternatives.

Your competitors are investing Despite a turbulent year for delivering new products, vegan arrivals saw an upwards trajectory increasing 8 percent YoY across categories from August 1st. On the other side of the coin, investment in pure leather waned with arrivals dropping 11 percent YoY. It affects key fabric trends Leather continues to be a runway-approved fabric indicating the mass market will need to invest in animal-free alternatives. Similarly, as the cozy aesthetic ramps up, fabrics such as wool, fur and down replacements will be highly sought after.

New outerwear styles are up 6 percent YoY Equaling 40 percent of vegan arrivals across the US and UK, retailers are leveraging outerwear to mimic fur, wool and leather. While solutions to these that are both sustainable and animal-friendly aren’t yet widely available, change is in motion as the climate emergency accelerates.

In December, the UK is expected to weigh in on the future of wild animal fur exports when Britain leaves the EU. If banned, luxury brands will exclude fur and skins from their collections and look to ecofriendly replacements, influencing the market from the top down.

With lockdown restrictions causing a greater appreciation for the outdoors, the puffer jacket has emerged as a hero item.

INSIGHTS TO BACK UP YOUR STRATEGY Retailers are backing vegan footwear Overall new vegan arrivals declined 7 percent YoY, while pure leather saw a more significant drop of 17 percent. Footwear styles were more commonly described as 'faux' over vegan, providing opportunity to appeal to the growing lifestyle shift.

Mirroring the wider athleisure driven trends that, investment was noted in vegan sneakers and slippers

28 I November 2020

33 percent and 26 percent more vegan gloves and belts available vs. 2019, respectively.

Wool alternatives With PETA campaigning for an end to wool in the fashion industry, the use of the fibre at mass market retailers is shifting. The number of available products containing wool in the care and composition has fallen 9 percent vs. 2019, while mohair is down 71 percent. Interestingly, products stocked with cashmere in its care and composition have increased by 8 percent YoY. Following boohoo’s ‘woolgate’ incident of 2019 where the retailer backed out of its decision to forego stocking wool products within 24 hours, the fast fashion retailer has instead grown the term ‘wool look.’ Predominantly outerwear new arrivals of these items with this keyword have expanded 18 percent YoY over the past three months.

Following PETA’s undercover exposé of the world’s largest privately-owned alpaca farm in Peru, Uniqlo joined retailers such as Marks & Spencer and H&M in dropping the animal’s wool from its ranges. According to the Higg Materials Sustainability Index, alpaca wool ranks as the second most environmentally damaging material after silk. Though not as accessible as vegan leather, cruelty-free alternatives to conventional silk are starting to gain traction. Peace silk, offered by brands such as Nudie Jeans, Stine Goya and Mother of Pearl, is woven from the already hatched moth cocoons.

However, there is currently no certification to guarantee the standard of this alternative.

retailers to push for industry standards for animal welfare and continue to research alternative solutions to fabrics.

WHAT’S LUXURY’S ROLE IN ALL THIS?

Beauty The beauty industry responded to demand for crueltyfree products long before the boom in veganism, putting this industry ahead.

Driven by brands targeted at Gen-Z, many adopt vegan ingredients alongside ethical practices. Vegan beauty continues to infiltrate the mass market.

As face coverings cement themselves as an everyday accessory, there will be a heightened interest on vegan skincare, foundations, mascara, eyeshadows and eyeliner.

Designers such as Gucci, Chanel, Burberry, Versace and Victoria Beckham have vowed to keep their catwalks fur-free. This sets an example for the rest of the industry.

In the US, there is already a 36 percent YoY decline of women’s fur arrivals over the past three months.

Leather and skins are still prominent in the luxury market.

We analysed womenswear luxury products currently in stock in the US and UK market described as ‘vegan’, and iterations of. These alternatives make up only 2.3 percent of women’s leather goods for luxury brands and are driven predominantly by Stella McCartney, who has offered cruelty-free options from brand inception.

While pure leather continues to be big business in the luxury market, contemporary luxe brands such as Nanushka are providing customers with high-quality vegan leather alternatives.

Despite the consistent growth, there’s still a need for retailers to find alternatives in garments that are friendly to both the environment and animals.

THE CONVERSATION

Organisations like PETA work to educate the public on the conditions of exploited workers and the controversial process in which silk fibre is collected.

While vegan silk isn’t as mainstream as vegan leather, cruelty-free alternatives to conventional silk are starting to gain traction. Peace silk is woven from cocoons of the already hatched moth. However, there is currently no certification to guarantee the standard of this alternative.

• The first mention of Vegnauary last year was from Lush beauty on December 27th. Cue your communications straight after Christmas where consumers will be planning lifestyle changes ahead of the new year.

• Following high spending throughout the festive period and the unstable economic climate, be sure to promote products at entry-level price points to appeal to consumers tightening their purse stings.

• Across VM channels in January, mentions of vegan and Veganuary increased by 38 percent YoY. • Faux leather and fur are the core trends highlighted by retailers in communications showcasing vegan shopping edits over the period.

• Beauty is an easy win for retailers during Veganuary, with many brands promoting the category in emails.

VEGAN TRAILBLAZERS Since 2018, continued growth has been noted in the US and UK. By the end of January, there was a 43 percent YoY increase in products described as ‘vegan’ stocked in the UK. In the US, this grew by 64 percent.

According to last year’s Mintel research, the UK overtook Germany as the world leader for vegan food launches. A major market for cruelty-free fashion in its own right, the number of vegan products retailing online in Germany has grown 95 percent since 2018.

While this growth signals the fashion industry’s process of moving away from the use of animal hides in production, there is still the question around sustainability within vegan products. Designers are yet to find widely-available alternatives to vegan leathers and faux furs that are both cruelty-free and eco-friendly.

Cupro is emerging as a cruelty-free alternative to silk.

Already a mainstay for lining and trim, cupro is a waste product of cotton that maintains the sheen, hand feel and drape of silk. Cupro has seen a rise within luxury and premium retailers in the US market. A previous study conducted in November revealed products available online described as “100 percent cupro” (including in the lining and trim) increased 66 percent YoY.

THE PRICE TAG While 100 percent leather goods are coveted for their premium status and high quality, animal-free alternatives come with a competitive price tag.

All eyes turn to Paris, which is poised to become the sustainable capital of fashion by 2024. We can expect to see significant strides made in this area over the next four years.

Another market to keep on your radar is Denmark.

Home to the Copenhagen Fashion Summit - the world’s leading business event on sustainability in fashion. In their 2019 CEO Agenda, they encouraged fashion

We compare the full price of leather versus non-leather products stocked in the US mass market at the end of January. In every category, vegan leather is the cheaper alternative.

Interestingly, on average vegan leather outerwear, trousers and skirts come in more than 3 times cheaper.

Retailers such as Banana Republic and Topshop are catering to different market segments, offering both 100 percent and vegan leather styles.

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emerging designer

LILA BY LIV

I designed thoughtfully and inclusively with all bodies in mind and my aim was to positively improve the dressing experience for as many women as possible through a neutral and calming colour palette.

Emerging designer, Olivia Jordan, was heavily influenced by her grandmother and mother growing up as sewing and fashion had always been in her family. Recently finishing her fashion degree, she is now working full-time at The Sewing Depot as a content creator and sales admin while also managing her own label – LILA by Liv. LILA by Liv began in 2019 with the mission to provide women with clothing that was as comfortable, effortless, and as functional as possible for everyday life. LILA by Liv creates custom-made pieces as Jordan is passionate about providing a positive service through fashion. Each piece of clothing should be meaningful, and nothing gets more meaningful than custom-made.

“I love the connection and relationship that I get to build as I work personally with my clients. I am very passionate about reducing waste within the fashion industry also, so I wanted to create a business that revolved around made-to-order pieces that were friendly to the environment,” explained Jordan.

30 I November 2020

After finishing her four-year Honours Fashion degree at Massey University, it solidified her goal as a child of starting her own label.

At the moment, Jordan is the only person behind LILA by Liv. She designs, samples, and markets her brand herself. She hopes to outsource help for orders soon, but right now, it’s just herself behind the brand.

LILA by Liv is currently only online on its website, however, it is Jordan’s dream to be able to have her own pop-up store sometime soon, and then a permanent store in Wellington someday.

LILA by Liv has dropped two different collections this year, the first being ‘ALL IN COMFORT’ which was her graduate collection.

ALL IN COMFORT was made to create purposeful and functional garments that work for all women.

“I designed thoughtfully and inclusively with all bodies in mind and my aim was to positively improve the dressing experience for as many women as possible through a neutral and calming colour palette.”

LILA by Liv’s second collection ‘ROAM’ has just recently dropped. Inspired by the landscape and beauty of New Zealand, filled with dresses and blouses. It is an outward expression of the freedom associated with the Summer months.

Jordan’s favourite piece she has released is the Serenity Dress which features in both collections.

“It is just such a beautiful shape and I love the curved panel lines along with the gathered sleeves and skirt details. The wrap front is also very flattering on all body types and it can be reversed too!”

In the next three to five years, Jordan aims to keep slowly and steadily growing her brand within New Zealand – with the option to ship overseas. Alongside this, she would love to be able to hire a few team members to help her out on custom orders, and of course the big goal being opening a permanent shop for her label.

To explore LILA by Liv’s current collection, ROAM, visit www.lilabyliv.com or email lilabusiness.nz@gmail.com.

Order now at jerome@notforyouclothing.com

Made in New Zealand

runway

Fashion and music fans flocked to downtown Auckland as the non-conformist fashion brand, Stolen Girlfriends Club (SGC) hosted the largest event in its fifteen-year history: STOLEN SUPER CLUB. Shed 10 on Auckland's waterfront was the backdrop to a fashion show that showcased the brand's latest collection 'IS THERE MUSIC IN THE AFTERLIFE?'.

“It's a collection I designed during the Australian bushfires when COVID was descending on us. It's all about the brave new worlds that can rise from destruction and chaos, so it felt like a perfect thing to share right now,” explained SGC Creative Director, Marc Moore.

SGC strayed away from traditional invitations in favour of branded masks, an innovative and fitting move from the brand and a nod to a COVID-centric year.

SGC is well-known as a champion of young creatives. The music line-up for the event were handpicked, up and coming, local musicians. SGC also

chose members of the public to be a part of their eccentric runway line-up.

With electric performances by New Zealand musicians Night Lunch, Bontempo, Andy Heartthrob, Hurricane Emily and Sub-Sahara building up the energy and anticipation the night culminated in a visual feast as the last collection for the year was rolled out across a catwalk that featured 48 models (including fifteen plucked from the public casting).

The 48 models walked a two-level, fifty-threemetre catwalk structure, while a bespoke soundtrack thumped through the building. The show soundscape, curated by creative director Marc Moore and produced by Red Bull Studio's Ben Lawson, felt akin to 2020: bright beginnings descending into heavy, dark elements before revealing a feeling of light to close out the show.

The well-known duo, Sebastian Hunt and Dylan Richards styled the collection to speak to the essence of the soundtrack, making the experience both

theatrical and tangible. The make-up by Kiekie Stanners for M.A.C Cosmetics and hair direction by Anthony Bayer using Lust Haircare also helped bring the vision to life.

"We wanted to put on the biggest party we possibly could - perhaps one of the biggest fashion events in the world to have happened this year, because we love and appreciate our community, and with everything the year has brought, we wanted to make that known," explained Moore.

"The creative community has been hit hard by 2020 but I truly believe it's one that can pull itself out and thrive. We need to stick together and celebrate each other, and that's what Thursday night was all about."

"We definitely let off some collective steam and it felt amazing to be together on this kind of scale. There was a lot of energy in that room!"

SGC's new collection 'IS THERE MUSIC IN THE AFTERLIFE?' is now available online at www.stolengirlfriendsclub.com.

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