Apparel Magazine | October 2019

$ 10.95

OCTOBER 2019 I VOL 52 I NO 10

editor ’ s note

ABANDONED CART RECOVERY

fashionable reads

Dior: Moments Of Joy

By Muriel Teodori Exploring the history of the brand’s beauty and success, this luxury volume spotlights Dior’s most successful and greatest moments.

With exclusive archives, captured behind the scenes moments and workshop imagery, the collection presents the luxury French label in a light unseen before.

Moments of Joy is an impressive collection of literature, philosophy and creative history set to inspire anyone who reads it.

Ralph Lauren: In His Own Fashion

The emphasis on brand owners to gain consumer engagement and increase consumer base expansion through an e-commerce site is a battle often fought over the phenomenon that has become known as the abandoned cart. No matter a customers engagement with a brand, there is no guarantee that a customer will buy, and while they will browse and put items in their cart, for a large proportion of these customers they will leave the site without completing the sale.

These non-sales are known as the “abandoned cart”, and the recovery of these sales has become one of the biggest challenges facing brands.

Across various studies, the percentage of abandoned carts ranges anywhere from 50% to 80%, but out of this has emerged a marketing tool known as abandoned cart recovery. In these instances, an email is sent automatically to remind a customer, who has added items but left the site without completing the order and is often done very soon after the customer has abandoned the purchase. In these circumstances, this is also a prime time for a brand owner to offer a discount or bonus to encourage prompt completion of the sale.

However the big question we often get asked is what is best practice, how long should a retailer wait before sending the first email, and more importantly how many times can a customer be reminded about their "abandoned purchase" before they switch off engaging with the brand? The problem is to judge the timing to be close enough so that the brand is still fresh in the customer's mind, but long enough so that the customer does not feel that the brand has been too intrusive.

The answer is quite simple. How would you feel as a customer if you received a bombardment of emails?

What do you consider an acceptable level of prompts?

Rule of thumb would be to wait an hour to send the first reminder email to the customer, then leave them alone for at least a day before trying to prompt them again into completing the sale, perhaps at this time send a sweetener by way of a discount or bonus to encourage them to complete the purchase. With the second reminder sometimes it is better to offer another item or a new product to market rather than to remind them that they have abandoned a purchase.

Our recommendation is to mix up the timings and offers to avoid customers becoming conditioned to receiving a discount if they abandon a cart.

CHAIRMAN

Peter Mitchell ISSN 1171-2287 PUBLISHER Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Suite 9, Level 3, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand ADMIN/SUBSCRIPTIONS Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com PO +64 9 304 0142 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the CONTENT MANAGERS Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com publisher. Copyright 2018 NZ Apparel Magazine.

GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM

Raymund Sarmiento

INTERN

2 I October 2019

Ciaran Carroll Janet Guan

By Alan Flusser Published as part of the brands 50th anniversary, Alan Flusser presents an intimate life reflection of the iconic American designer, Ralph Lauren. This high-level, illustrated read depicts the designer’s life and work while highlighting the fashion and cultural impact he made on the industry. From a young boy in the Bronx to one of the most recognised names in fashion, his story is one to read.

Fashion Evolution: The 250 Looks That Shaped Modern Fashion

By Paula Reed Presenting trends that have contributed to the evolution of fashion from the 50s to the 80s, Paula Reed explores the history that has ultimately defined how we dress. Fashion Evolution looks at iconic pieces from the Chanel suit, to Ziggy Stardust, to the Wonderbra, each created by visionaries that, as a result, have made their mark in history.

Accompanied by striking imagery, this read rejoices style moments that have captivated the world.

Yves Saint Lauren: Icons Of Fashion Design & Photography

By Marguerite Duras Relish on exquisite haute couture and ready-towear designs created by the luxury fashion house and photographed by the world’s leading fashion photographers. Originally published in 1988, the book traces designs from 1962 to 1988, featuring 135 images of Yves Saint Laurent’s most distinct designs.

Spotlighting collaborations with idols such as Audrey Hepburn and Twiggy, this classic volume documents the brands ever-evolving creativity and world-class photography.

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fast five

NEW EXPANSION LANDS IN NEW ZEALAND Australian streetwear brand, General Pants, has finally launched in New Zealand both in Auckland and in Christchurch, with plans to launch in Wellington.

Founded in Sydney in 1972, General Pants has continued to expand globally with stores in both Los Angeles and New York.

Sacha Liang, chief executive of General Pants Co., explained that New Zealand’s youth and music

culture felt fitting for General Pants Co. and is what lead them to expand into the New Zealand market.

The first New Zealand location opened in the new Westfield Newmarket shopping precinct. Moving the brand from a complete online presence in New Zealand, the brick-and-mortar stores has given their customers a larger variety of choice and has successfully made the brand more accessible.

A NEW ETHICAL PARTNERSHIP Outland Denim and Karen Walker have teamed up to create a limited-edition six-piece denim collection. The capsule combined signature styles by Karen Walker with the two brands' shared ethos around consumption patterns. James Bartle, Outland Denim founder, said co-designing the capsule was an obvious choice.

Established in 2011, Outland Denim’s mission was to give formerly enslaved or exploited young women an opportunity in a more ethical employment pathway. Through training and opening up their main production house in Cambodia, the brand has been able to give previously vulnerable women a stable and enjoyable job. 80 employees work at the Cambodia production house, including women who have left exploitative work environments to those with physical disabilities. With living wage and educational and personal advancement initiatives, Outland Denim helps to rebuild employee’s futures in terms of training and career progression.

“We’re honoured to partner with Outland and support them in creating enduring social change for women in vulnerable positions,” Karen Walker said. “Karen Walker and Outland are both committed to creating well-designed and well-crafted pieces that are enjoyed and worn for many decades.”

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BANKING ON NEW ZEALAND MADE New Zealand made label Harman Grubisa were in charge of giving Westpac workers a fresh wardrobe.

Westpac teamed up with Harman Grubisa to create corporate clothing that went beyond the boring button-up and suit pants combo.

Boasting over 30 pieces in the range, Westpac customer-facing staff now have a wide variety to choose from. Highlights from the range include sleek turtle necks, contemporary suiting, and the inclusion of cultural items such as a hijab. This collection enables Westpac employees the opportunity to showcase individual personalities and style.

The designer duo also felt it was important for the prints to have a Kiwi flair in the mix, creating two bespoke prints: a floral Mānuka print and a Prince of Wales check.

fast five

NEW COLLABORATION TAKES FLIGHT Allbirds collaborated with New Zealand Forest & Bird to launch a limited collection of shoes that were inspired by 2018’s Bird of the Year. The 2018 winner was the gluttonous kererū, known for being the ‘drunkest bird’ in New Zealand. The kererū is in an endemic state, but not currently endangered. However, they are still extremely vulnerable to attacks from feral cats and stoats.

There are two pairs of shoes in this collection, the Sober Kererū and the Tipsy Kererū,

both paying homage to the 2018 crowned winner by taking kererū feathers as inspiration for their design.

Allbirds’ tree fabrication is a renewable material that is much easier on the environment than traditional fabrics. The tree fibre, TENCEL Lyocell, is sourced from South African farms which minimise fertiliser use and rely mainly on rainfall. In comparison to materials such as cotton, TENCEL Lyocell uses 95 percent less water. Moreover, the shoelaces, like the rest of their collections, are made from recycled bottles.

New Zealand Forest & Bird’s conservation efforts are extensive, and a portion of the proceeds made from this collection will be donated to support their work.

ICONIC BRAND APPOINTS NEW CMO Michael Scheiner has been appointed Chief Marketing Officer for Tommy Hilfiger Global.

Scheiner has plenty of experience under his belt with over 15 years working for leading global brands such as Hollister Co. His efforts did not go unnoticed as he has successfully managed to move Hollister into the top five brands among teens during his role.

“We are thrilled to have Michael join our world-class Marketing Organization, and believe he will help fuel our ongoing digital transformation, enable us to respond strategically to new disruptions, and position Tommy Hilfiger as a leader amongst its competitors,” said Daniel Grieder, CEO of Tommy Hilfiger Global and PVH Europe.

“It is an honour to join such an iconic global brand,” said Scheiner.

“The innovation and leadership

Tommy Hilfiger has shown from its earliest beginnings is inspiring.

I am excited to work closely with Tommy, Daniel and the company’s talented marketing teams around the world to write the next chapter as Tommy Hilfiger celebrates its 35th anniversary next year.”

essential stock

WRANGLER The seeds of Wrangler were sewn in 1904, when CC Hudson set up the Hudson Overall Company, dedicated to producing top quality, durable work clothes. The Wrangler brand name was coined in 1946 and the 1970s would later be referred to as Wrangler’s golden era. Movie stars and musicians chose to wear the brand and it quickly became an icon of youth culture.

The Melbourne based team behind Wrangler Australia are still dedicated to designing heritage inspired denim for Australia and New Zealand. Looking back through the archives, the design team are drawn to Wrangler’s ‘Golden Era’.

Subtle 70s references are paired with modern fits and fabrications making their jeans instant favourites and wardrobe staples.

Working with the world’s best denim suppliers who uphold high ethical standards of practice, they believe in quality so your jeans last.

This Summer, Wrangler is bringing retro back with their take on the tapered mom short. Sitting high on the waist and slim through the leg, the Tyler Short features a raw hem and are finished with a vintage paper back patch.

For more information visit wrangler.com.au.

ARE THESE YOUR BUM’S NEW BEST FRIEND? Finally, a pair of pants that achieve style without compromising on comfort.

Freddy, an Italian brand that originated in Milan over 43 years ago, has arrived on New Zealand shores ready to give your booty a boost while offering extreme comfort thanks to their innovative design.

Freddy’s patented revolutionary WR.UP pants have become a game-changer for women. The technology behind WR.UP pants are the secret to their success, with over six million pairs sold globally, they compliment the female figure and offer extreme comfort thanks to their unique shaping effect.

The combination of strategic stitching, stretchy fabrics, ultra-light silicone and an iconic patented butt design means that your booty is getting a lift, regardless of whether you’re petite, pear, hourglass, apple-shaped, tall or rectangular.

Freddy pants are unique in every way. They solve the age-old problem of jeans getting loose and baggy with wear and constantly having to yank them up.

Freddy’s WR.UP line feature a thin silicone panel inside the waistband that prevents your pants from moving or lowering so you can move freely and bend over without the fear of your pants slipping.

While traditional denim only stretches in one direction, Freddy denim is made from a unique

8 I October 2019

cotton jersey which stretches in both directions making them extremely comfortable, form-fitting and flattering. Freddy merges the gap between looking good in skinny jeans and feeling luxuriously comfortable.

Freddy’s innovation doesn’t stop at their WR.UP and denim range. They recently introduced a revolutionary fabric named D.I.W.O PRO to their collection. D.I.W.O PRO is a smart yarn that features bioactive minerals woven into the fabric which amazingly reduces the appearance of cellulite with wear. With both the fabric and garment production being made in Italy, the D.I.W.O PRO range is fast becoming one of their best-sellers and it’s not hard to see why. This fabric not only beautifies the skin by increasing skin firmness and smoothness, but is also very breathable and extremely comfortable to wear.

All Freddy pants, including their D.I.W.O PRO range, feature their famous WR.UP shaping effect technology. They have redefined denim as we know it and offer levels of comfort that once tried will keep your customers wondering how they ever wore any other jeans.

For more information or to become a stockist, email hello@freddystore.com.au or visit www.freddystore.co.nz.

FREDDY Freddy's popular High Rise denim features their patented WR.UP shaping effect technology to compliment the female figure and give your booty a lift. Freddy denim features a unique bi-elastic fabric which provides a fourway stretch making them unbelievably comfortable. They will never stretch out of shape with wear, preventing any sagging around the knees or bum, a common problem found with traditional denim.

For more information or to become a stockist, email hello@freddystore.com.au or visit www.freddystore.co.nz..

RIDERS BY LEE For years, Rider has prided themselves on creating ethically sourced denim that fits seamlessly into the active lifestyle of our wearers. We believe that denim is a wardrobe staple that can be worn by anyone.

Designed in Melbourne, Rider offers denim to different ages, body shapes and sizes. Rider's denim collections extend from ages three to 50+. Their aim is to inspire everyone to feel good in their own skin, celebrating denim for every mood, every moment, but most importantly denim for every body. The cult classic Hi Rider has been reengineered to fit the hourglass shape. Their ultimate CURVE high-rise skinny jeans have been designed and constructed specifically to flatter a range of curvy silhouettes. Featuring special gap-proof waistband technology, designed to hug even the smallest waist, and front pocket construction to compliment the fit. Finished with a cropped length, in black denim, it’s perfect for all year round.

For more information visit ridersbylee.com.au.

LEE Lee has been loving denim since 1889. From the Sharpies of the 70’s, the Slackers of the 90’s, right through to the Party People of today; Lee get their kicks out of crafting, weaving, dyeing, washing cutting and sewing denim into the best garments around. Lee's rich history paired with a fierce passion for denim, is what drives their Melbourne-based designers. Drawing from the knowledge that comes with being a global denim brand, Lee sources the world’s best denim fabrics and only works with factories with the highest ethical and sustainability standards, to deliver designs especially for Australians and New Zealanders who move to the beat of their own drum.

The High Baggy is the newest and ultimately the coolest of their anti-fit library. The High baggy highlights a fitted waist with a fuller relaxed body and leg profile, designed in a soft bleached light denim.

For more information visit www.leejeans.com.au.

meet the buyer

Mint Boutique REBECCA KERR

In 2008, Rebecca Kerr opened the doors of Mint Boutique, located just two hours from Christchurch in Fairlie. Kerr is a well-seasoned buyer and prides herself in her ability to cater to a variety of New Zealand women.

Mint Boutique has consistently provided its customers with a personal experience. “We are able to talk more about the product in question and have that friendly indepth knowledge right there and then for the particular customer,” Kerr explained when talking about what sets her boutique apart from the larger department stores. Kerr stated that a personal connection to the consumer is especially important in a small town such as Fairlie where customers don’t want to feel as if their exact outfit is worn by every other person in town.

The personalised experience that Kerr offers her customers extends into her pricing as well. “We stock a huge variety of different brands that suit all kinds of budgets, we really have something for everyone.”

Her passion for serving consumers from all walks of life has led Mint Boutique to carry varied stock. Kerr has sought to supply everything from highend pieces to affordable street wear.

In recent years, highend brands have increased in popularity thanks to laybuy programmes which have made the pieces more accessible to consumers. “This has changed the way our customers buy by giving them the choice to purchase garments they normally wouldn’t because of the paying off option,” Kerr noted. Mint Boutique offers not only Laybuy, but also Afterpay and Genoapay. These payment services are another way in which Kerr attempts to meet customers at their price point as opposed to upselling individuals beyond what they can afford.

These services are available on Mint Boutique’s website which is where about 90 percent of Kerr’s sales come from. “Customers like the option of being able to buy from their couch, we have made it easy with simple returns, different payment options, and buying incentives.” Moving forward, Kerr cites this as one area in which she hopes to grow over the next few years. In particular, she hopes to make it more userfriendly, especially on mobile devices.

Another area in which Kerr hopes to grow her business is the sustainability of her purchases.

“Sustainability has had a massive effect. We are currently working on ways to become as eco-friendly as possible and do have to work with our suppliers to make this goal possible,” Kerr said. Aside from sustainability, Kerr buys primarily on-trend items.

Mint Boutique is always up to date with current

10 I October 2019

trends as well as the seasons, and has continually rotating stock in store. “Winter comes around quickly, and before we know it Spring has arrived, and Winter is on sale. Next Minute, summer is here, and Spring is on sale, it’s just an ongoing rotation to keep up,” Kerr relayed. Because of the ever-changing seasons, Kerr buys in medium drops, but if a brand is successful, she is more than happy to restock it.

When asked what she looks for, Kerr said good quality, trending colours, styles and a budget to suit both our buying and the customers limitations. Kerr recommends traveling to stores and bringing samples for buyers to feel and wear as buying online can only give a limited sense of a product.

For more information, email Rebecca@ mintboutique.co.nz.

radar

Child & Baby KONGES SLØJD In 2014 Emilie Breindal Konge founded Konges Slojd while on maternity leave. Unable to source organic products for her newborn, she decided to make them herself. The brand represents both Konge’s family name and the Danish word for woodwork. Konges Slojd is committed to creating products of the best quality, functionality and simplicity. “Our design philosophy is to make tasteful children’s interior design and items that bring the little ones joy and make visual sense to the parents,” said Konge. “At Konges Slojd, we have created a simple, Scandinavian, stylish and quality-conscious universe for those most dear to us, our children.” With all the items designed in Denmark and produced in India and China, Konges Slojd ensures its employees have proper working conditions and create all their products with GOTS certified organic cotton. “The highest attention has been paid to every little detail of all our products. They have undergone a thorough process before reaching our lovely customers.”

Konges Slojd carries a range of essential baby products from clothing, interior and toys for premature babies to children up to eight years old. The quality and aesthetic of Konges Slojd primarily targets women and new mothers who care about quality and the visual aspects of the products. “The Konges Slojd

DIMPLES BY JANE-ANNE New Zealand luxury babywear brand, Dimples, has been in Newmarket for the past 13 years and recently decided to make the move to a larger store while remaining in the Newmarket location.

“We have been around that area of Newmarket for several years and customers become familiar with where you are,” said production assistant, Samantha Williams. “We decided to do a bigger store so that we could create a one-stop-shop for everything baby. We have been able to as stock a lot more brands and provide a better shopping experience for our customers.”

Dimples offers a range of products made from natural materials that are child-friendly, gentle and comfortable for all babies.

One of the biggest goals for the Dimples team at the new store is to offer customers a quality shopping experience with experienced staff members.

“We have three to four staff members on the floor at all times.” The new store has received positive feedback from customers, who highlighted the expansive space and detailed displays which made it easy to shop.

“Customers will like that the new store is spacious,

12 I October 2019

customer has an attitude towards the environment and therefore buys sustainable and organic,” explained Emilie. Konges Slojd designs and makes organic and comfortable baby products for mothers who want to provide their babies with the best quality clothing and bedding, as well as minimise their impact on the environment.

For more information visit www.kongessloejd.dk/

child-friendly and safe. We have areas in store where you can let your children relax and have fun while you shop around. We also have a seating area where mums and dads can feed their babies. We have also been able to have much better displays so customers can see the full range.”

Dimples have attended a number of baby expos this year and are anticipating more expos in 2020 to showcase the brand throughout more of New Zealand. “With the launch of the new store we have also been able to expand our brand list and present our existing brands to their fullest potential.”

Dimples’ new summer collections are currently being released and feature a delicate waffle print

that comes in a variety of colourways and styles. “We do extensive research on upcoming colour and style trends as well as sticking to our values while using natural fabrics that are comfortable and beneficial to baby.” Dimples have remained one of New Zealand’s most successful babywear brands with thanks to its commitment and values of providing customers with high-quality products that has created a loyal following.

For more information or to stock the latest collection from Dimples visit www.dimples.co.nz.

growing babies organically.

Nature Baby provides a world that nurtures you, your baby and nature.

All products are carefully selected for quality, purity and design and are produced in a way that cares for your baby, the earth and its workers. Organic cotton and merino are grown and processed without the use of harmful chemicals, leaving nothing on baby’s clothes except pure goodness.

www.naturebaby.co.nz

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 13

meet the buyer

Belle Bird Boutique Belle Bird Boutique stands tall among its competitors for its large portfolio of New Zealand brands. Belle Bird buyer Shelley Harvey explained that customer experience is really important to the business. “Being a small store, we can offer a personal shopping experience,” she said.

Harvey’s start in fashion was working as a cutter and pattern maker in New Zealand and the UK. She later completed her fashion degree at Otago Polytech which led her to pursue designing her own label, Belle Bird, almost 18 years ago. When Belle Bird first opened its doors, Harvey focused on the Dunedin student market, but in recent years they captured a much broader market. Belle Bird speaks to a certain style aesthetic rather than a specific demographic.

Harvey agreed that it is essential to buy quality garmentsand that this is what she looks for when considering a new designer to her portfolio. The quality of make and fabrics, imagery, its versatility; all of these are what help Harvey determine whether they are the right fit. Brands that stand behind what they do are also on her radar, and those who can effortlessly translate a trend into their existing aesthetic. “Know who will buy your clothes and test the market. The reality of the purchaser of your brand could be quite different to the customer you had imagined,” she said. The best way to get your brand in front of Harvey is to mail her a hard copy of your look book or a few photos. She always opens the mail, but finds she receives an overwhelming number of look books by email.

“People that follow up with a phone call always get my attention,” Harvey said.

“Cold calling into a store is great!

I always make time to look at a range if the seller has made this effort.”

Seasonal trends cannot be disregarded when choosing stock listing, according to Harvey, and she pointed out that there is a huge difference between fast fashion micro-trends and trends with a bit more longevity. “Buying is all about predicting the next trend, layered with what will still be around in six months from the current season. This can be a balance of sales analytics from the past and current season, coupled with gut instinct.”

Sustainability has taken the fashion industry by storm as consumers become more aware of their buying power. “As issues about sustainability and information around it come to light, it is an interesting time in fashion,” she said. “The term ‘sustainability’ covers such a broad spectrum of the clothing industry and spills into many industries mass-producing globally.” Harvey added that some brands are already there in terms of sustainability and others are on their way. "On a global scale, New Zealand producers are already doing great and are paving the way for what future fashion production should look like."

Since Belle Bird first opened, Harvey pointed out that designers have developed the ability to create

14 I October 2019

their own e-commerce sites, and are less reliant on getting into boutiques to get their label to market.

“This is so great for new designers, to have access to this technology today. It is a great way to build up a brand presence and a following before approaching stores.

Online shopping wasn’t a thing when we first opened.” Another aspect Harvey said has changed about the industry is rentals. Now Belle Bird focuses more on garments with longevity compared to party dresses, which they do not stock nearly as much as they did before.

On the decline, Harvey said trends like oversized

longline coats, cowl necks, tiny sunglasses, boiler and utility suits, and gym wear were on their way out. Looking ahead at the next season, however, she is excited about the new trends in skirts, smaller hand-held bags, and pairing clashing print garments.

Jackets, blazers and bombers are to replace coats, and you can also expect to see more coordinates, and textured fabrics.

Moving forward, the next five years will see Belle Bird expanding their own in-house brand’s presence in-store and online. They’re currently producing Danger Birds, their second best-selling brand, and are soon to launch South Of Eden; both brands are made locally in Dunedin in small runs and are only available at Belle Bird.

For more information, email buyers@bellebird.co.nz.

Know who will buy your clothes and test the market. The reality of the purchaser of your brand could be quite different to the customer you had imagined

ALBERTA FERRETTI Resene Pink Ribbon GOAT Resene Rice Cake

Bottoms

KAREN WALKER Resene Wet N Wild

up

16 I October 2019

he 1960s bell-bottom trend has made an appearance in the Ready-To-Wear Spring category.

A funky flared bottom is not only a nostalgic nod to 1960s fashion trends, but designers have also seamlessly made this trend transition back into the modern fashion-realm.

Alberta Ferretti’s Ready-To-Wear Spring 2020 collection consisted of bold colours including tones of yellows and pinks as well as some darker garments.

Alberta Ferretti showcased flowy and baggy pants and dresses, a clear and obvious direction for this collection. This bell-bottom piece was eye-catching, in a colour like Resene Pink Ribbon.

The 1910 Borbonese Ready-To-Wear Spring 2020 Collection was filled with 70s and 90s references, ranging from hourglass blazers to crop tops. The flared bottoms did not shy away in this collection as designer Dorian

1910 BORBONESE Resene Eighth Bokara Grey

Tarintini included flared suit bottoms to complement blazers as well as the look pictured; paired with a soft and feminine top. This particular pair of bell-bottoms has a gorgeous subtle floral pattern throughout and the green-greyish colour resembles Resene Eighth Bokara Grey.

Goat showcased feminine silhouettes with a soft colour palette in their Spring 2020 collection. With full length gowns, square necklines and scalloped edges, we see Goat bring out the femininity in formal wear. These pants in particular include a subtle flare at ankle length giving that little bit more visual interest than traditional suit pants. This clean-cut design has a slight off-white colour like Resene Rice Cake.

Karen Walker’s Spring 2020 collection flaunts rich blues with loud patterns that include abstract gold keys scattered throughout a flowy mosaic-like background. This collection sported high and delicate necklines decorated with floral-esque textures. This particular co-ord screams comfort combined with style, especially where the pants drape ever-so-slightly over the floor. The loud pattern seen repeatedly in this collection is fully blown up in this set, where the blues fall close to Resene Wet N Wild.

Mila Schon’s Spring 2020 collection includes large blocks of colours ranging from sandy nudes to bold violets and greens. The large colour-blocking seen in this collection takes us back to the popular sixties and seventies trend along with modern boxy silhouettes, making this collection stand out. This flared number from Mila Schon is simple and minimalist in a crisp white, aligning close with Resene Alabaster.

The ML Monique Lhuillier Ready-To-Wear Spring 2020 Collection explores bright pinks, blues and yellow spring-inspired tones. Resene Moonlight fits perfectly with this sheen co-ord. The spring dresses in this collection are drowned in beautiful layers and soft fabrics whilst other pieces are eye-catching, shiny and glittery. This bright co-ord includes another fulllength wide bottom, reaching fully to the floor. This unique colour choice along with the flared bottom definitely makes a statement.

Romeo Gigli’s Ready-To-Wear Spring 2020 collection includes gorgeous gowns that are big and flowy as well as extraordinary sets. The flared bellbottom trend is prevalent in this collection as we see almost all sets complemented with a flared bottom.

This one in particular has pink and blue watercolour hues, a pattern that is seen repeated in other garments in this collection. Focusing on the pink tones in this bottom, it resembles Resene BFF.

MONIQUE LHUILLIER Resene Moonlight MILA SCHON Resene Alabaster

ROMEO GIGLI Resene BFF

apparel presents

JIMI

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 19

DAVIDE GRILLO

KATE SYLVESTER MYRTHE VAN DER LEDEN

ACDC RAG

CURYLO PROJECT

WOOLEEX

INSIDE OUTSIDE

TYSON GIBSON

ISRAELLA KOBLA

MAY9

FEMMKA

NOT A STUDIO

GOLDEN SKYY

CECILE HADDAD

CLAIRE ELISABETH

GEROME

AADHE

EVAN CLAYTON

ANK BY AMRIT KAUR

SEYIT ARES

MIKAGE SHIN

KNCOLLECTION

GIBIZARRE

CHIDO

designer showcase

CHIDO Twenty-six-year-old Chido Dimairo was born in Zimababwe, growing up she always wanted to be a doctor. When she moved to New Zealand at just ten years old, it kick-started her passion for design and fashion. “Having been born somewhere where you really witness economic struggle, I really value fair trading and equality,” Dimairo explained. “As a growing brand, I strive to be in a position where I can be a key driver of this and be able to contribute to this.” Her brand Chido came to fruition after her graduate collection in 2015, and she was fortunate enough to be invited to showcase her designs at African Fashion Week in Wellington in 2016. Carrying on with the same design ethos, Dimairo has continued to develop her brand since graduation.

A highlight from her Vancouver Fashion Week show was her Kariba Knit Dress. This multi-coloured piece exemplifies everything the brand is about; bold, simplistic, and comfortable.

Her latest collection Wish You Were Here was inspired by her favourite childhood vacation spot, Lake Kariba in Zimbabwe. “It’s a beautiful serene area which always left me feeling relaxed and refreshed,” she said. “The collection’s colour palette is very much inspired by the colours of the lake; neutral tones and some pops of blue and green and the easy fit silhouettes embodying that carefree no fuss feeling that great holidays can bring up.”

The visual persona of Chido designs marry bold textiles and simple silhouettes, playing on the contrasts and balance between quiet and loud visual elements. Chido embodies and celebrates the beauty of individualism, with a constant focus on producing ethical and affordable luxury garments.

Moving forward, Dimairo plans to increase production and sell higher quantities through her new website while exploring other opportunities to expand her brand.

For more information, visit www.chidothelabel.com.

22 I October 2019

ANQA Madeleine Blanc Vantier grew up in Vanuatu and moved to France to join the School of Fashion Design and Model Making in Paris. Upon studying at the French institute, she learnt the essential basics of creating and sewing. Deciding to continue her studies, Vantier received her diploma as a Craftsman Seamstress and Craftsman Tailor from the Chamber of Trade of Alsace. Her fashion journey continued when she discovered haute couture through the Maison Guy Laroche in Paris, learning how to produce high-quality, fashionable pieces allowed Vantier to start her own brand, ANQA. “What I like about my job is the traditional sewing, creation, valuing the material, art crafts and durable clothing.

I love the craftsmanship and learning the secrets of French couture,” explained Vantier. The brand started producing pieces and accessories in March 2017, each item is designed to transmit the passion, meticulous work, love and generosity straight to the consumer.

“A few years ago, I had a company under the name Blanc that I decided to close so I could educate my children. Now that they are grown up and autonomous, I have reopened and changed the name of my brand.”

ANQA is named after a bird that resembles a mythical phoenix and represents freedom. The idea of freedom is seen throughout the brand as Vantier successfully specialises in elegance, subtlety and refinement. This year at Vancouver Fashion Week, ANQA presented their latest collection that was inspired by the environment and architecture. “The exhibited collection ‘Origin’ Is colourful and inspired by the elements of nature with the use of natural fabrics such as silk, wool and cotton. ANQA’s creations highlight nature through its different shapes with the objective of demonstrating how inspiring our planet can be and how important it is to protect it.”

The fashion designer’s future goals are to develop ANQA locally and internationally and participate in other fashion week events around the world. “The objective is to be known and recognised by professionals and to see ANQA creations appear on red carpets.”

NOT_A_STUDIO Twenty-nine-year-old designer Lea Schweinfurth studied at the Burg Giebichenstein University of Art and Design in Germany. Graduating with her final project NOT_A_STUDIO, Schweinfurth was inspired by sustainability in fashion.

“Fashion to me is both trouble and paradise,” explained Schweinfurth.

“Fashion as a tool of expression, communication and playfulness is paradisiac, the industry of fashion with its consequences and harmfulness to environment and humans is extremely troublesome.”

With previous experience at labels Bernhard Willhelm and Edun, Schweinfurth experienced first-hand what sustainable fashion in Los Angeles and New York encapsulated. “The very first spark of inspiration for NOT_A_ STUDIO happened while I was living and working in New York in 2018. The way people used fashion not only as a tool for visual communication but also as the first impulse for verbal contact made me think about how to use this potential.”

Through her focus on the development of new concepts that change sustainability in fashion and educate

the consumer on ethics, Schweinfurth’s project of NOT_A_STUDIO is not only fashionable but also informative. “I am finding my way to practice the profession of a fashion designer while pursuing to contribute something that makes this industry less troublesome,” said Schweinfurth. “The third part of the project NOT_A_STUDIO is the ADD_IT_COLLECTION which is sustainably made of disposed garments and pursues a playful, eccentric and joyful design to attract attention.”

Schweinfurth showcased her diverse, inclusive collection from NOT_A_STUDIO at Vancouver Fashion Week where her models came out wearing one of the pieces and bought another one onstage to celebrate the act of dressing. The future for NOT_A_STUDIO is to expand the interviews and collaborations, as well as growing the network to spread the message of sustainability to consumers worldwide.

“Gender and size inclusive, all items address everyone who wants to playfully dress in something fashionable while practicing their sustainable values.”

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Jumanji: The Next Level Jumanji: The Next Level directed by Jake Kasdan shows the return of Spencer played by Alex Wolff to the world of Jumangi. The film revolves around his friends and grandfather who travel through this dangerous game to save him.

Costume designer Louise Mingenbach has

maintained the original costumes for the main characters as they embark on their crazy journey and face a range of obstacles.

Starring Jack Black, Dwayne Johnson, Kevin Hart and Karen Gillian, Jumanji: The Next Level will leave you more excited for the next one.

Jojo Rabbit Taika Waititi’s film Jojo Rabbit is an American satirical black comedy that portrays a young Hitler follower who finds out his mother is hiding a Jewish girl in their house. Staring Roman Gritting Davis and Scarlett Johansson, Jojo Rabbit has received both criticism and praise for Waititi’s comedic depiction of Nazis. Costume designer Mayes C. Rubeo successfully captured the Nazi Germany setting in a different and unexpected way. While remaining

respectful to history, Rubeo styled the character of Hitler in his known brown paper bag-coloured suit while Jojo was dressed to suit the role of a being the young authority in the household.

Scarlett Johansson’s classic yet modern looks made sense because her character represents colour and positivity even during a tragic time. “We wanted it to look like wartime through the eyes of a child and do something unexpected.”

Judy Renée Zellweger takes on the role of famous American singer and actress, Judy Garland. Following the stages of Garland’s career during her final year of life, the film is a splendid adaptation of the West End and Broadway play, End of the Rainbow. Costume designer Jany Temime used a prosthetic nose tip, contact lenses, a range of wigs and

Charlie's Angels Australian Costume designer Kym Barrett has taken on the role to style the 2019 Charlie’s Angels, Kristen Stewart, Ella Balinska and Naomi Scott.

With previous experience designing the costumes in movies like The Matrix and Jupiter Ascending, Barrett was effectively able to unify the Angels as a group as well as represent each of their individual personalities. By working with each actress, Barrett learnt about

their individual styles and was able to represent it brilliantly on the screen.

“Every girl that sees the movie should believe that they could also be one of the them,” explained Barrett.

From girly, glittery looks to badass outfits, Barrett’s costumes pay homage to past Angels while bringing a new modern aesthetic with the new Angels.

Sabrina necklines to captivate Judy Garland’s spirit. Temime even went as far as to create Garland’s noticeable slouch by sewing the dresses directly onto Zellweger’s body, “It was a great reminder during the day if you got lazy because you had no option but to stand like her, “The sequins were very strict.”

The 5 categories and trends to bank on in post-Brexit Britain

edited

We collected recent findings that reflect consumer spending habits and financial news to understand the impact Brexit will have on trends.

Stockpiling, single market, scaremongering. In a sea of uncertainty driven headlines, we collect the most recent findings that reflect consumer spending habits and financial news to make sense of what impact Brexit will have on trends.

During these uncertain times, it's crucial to have reliable data to back up your buying decisions.

Monitor how your fellow UK competitors adjust their assortments and pricing post-Brexit with EDITED’s retail decision platform.

BRITS WILL BE HOLIDAYING CLOSER TO HOME The weakness of the pound, enhanced border controls, concerns around healthcare agreements these are all deterrents that will see more Brits looking to home turf for their holidays - the latter there of more concern for older citizens. Fueling this further, Lonely Planet listed England as the second best destination for 2020 and the movement of consumers becoming more thoughtful about their travel and carbon footprint.

How to take action? Think about the Great British getaway. Products built out around this should be practical and comfortable - speaking to those who are adventuring around an island with unpredictable weather. Think basic jersey tops, simple lightweight knits, lightweight outerwear and rain jackets.

PEOPLE WILL BE STAYING HOME MORE In a similar vein, the rise of the staycation is nothing new. Taking time off work to stay in the comfort of one's own home is on the rise. People are just staying home more in general too. The MCA Insight reported a 2 percent drop in casual dining since the referendum vote. Retailers can speak to these consumers and offer products to help build that home and enhance the time spent there. There are three main areas of opportunity: homeware, loungewear and wellness.

We’re already seeing brands expand in the loungewear space. While menswear sees a modest 4 percent growth YoY, in womenswear there’s a 62 percent increase. MissPap is the top stockist with arrivals up 220 percent, while similar brands Boohoo and PrettyLittleThing are up 196 percent and 58 percent, respectively.

A number of retailers have already made strides in homeware. ASOS launched a line in February and H&M opened a flagship on Regent Street in April.

Soft furnishings and plants are a great place to start.

Products like nail polish with low price tags, soared in the 2008 recession. Consider these and

28 I October 2019

face masks as accessible offerings into the wellness space, proceeding with caution around CBD beauty as the high is wearing off.

SPENDING MORE CAREFULLY “In the short to medium term, what really impacts people's practical finances and arrangements is whether we leave the EU with or without a negotiated deal,” said Martin Lewis, MoneySavingExpert.

While this is still up in the air, what's clear is that the noise around it has impacted consumer spending confidence - there was a 1.3 percent drop in retail sales through September. This will vary regionally too with jobs in various parts of the country at different risks following Brexit. Consumers will be more considerate of what they spend money on. Expect growth in essentials such as jerseys and investment pieces such as outerwear and denim, as these categories are timeless trends. Currently in the menswear market, the average price of a leather jacket is £128.47 and in womenswear it’s £100.

NOSTALGIA & YEARNING FOR YESTERDAY While political tensions and turmoil have ignited various types of activism, it conversely sees consumers leaning into nostalgic trends. Post-Brexit is going to heighten this sentiment which is already embedded into consumerism. The 90s have dominated the market in recent seasons and for Spring 2020 the decades to know per gender are the 70s and 00s for womenswear, and the 90s for menswear.

WITH OR WITHOUT EU BLUE YouGov's most recent figures show that 6 percent more Brits think that leaving the EU is wrong versus those confident in the decision to exit. An estimated one million anti-Brexit campaigners descended on Westminster once again on October 20th. The crowd involved are notoriously good at a punny placard with a proud display of EU flags in the unmistakable blue.

How to Action? Already performing well in the UK mass market, PrettyLittleThing and Bershka have had products in this blue hue sell out in October, while EU blue is central to &Other Stories knitwear for this season.

For future seasons, the most literal way to take inspiration from the EU lines up with Spring 2020 presentations. This shade of blue emerged as a key tone over the recent runway shows.

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