Apparel Magazine // October 2015

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OCTOBER 2015 I VOL 48 I NO 10

VANCOUVER FASHION WEEK 2015 pg 22

04 12 16 18 26

NEWS GLOBAL SNAPSHOT COLOUR TRENDING MODEL TALKS SUCCESS UNDER 30

FASHIONABLE

EDITOR’S letter

Are We Over Fashion?

Seasons come and go, fashion houses are pumping out collection after collection, in-season, pre-season, and mid-season, capsule collections, collaborations left, right and centre, but is it all too much?

Accelerated product cycles and crazy fashion week schedules and overwhelming social media posts could be leading fashion to its biggest burnout yet.

A recent poll by US WWD put this question to several designers, executives and industry powerhouses to weigh in. “If you are not a good bullfighter, don’t enter the arena,” designer Karl Largerfeld said.

“Everybody is allowed to show a collection. There may be too many, but that’s not my problem.” After the latest wave of international shows and collections, is the fatigue of the industry affecting consumers who are merely bystanders of the social and online media spectacle?

Designer Raf Simons who announced recently his exit from Dior after nearly four years at the helm of the women’s collections, said his decision to leave was based entirely and equally on his desire to focus on other interests in his life, including his own brand. WWD concluded in the article, “Are overlapping fashion shows, and fashion weeks, in anybody’s interest? Should runway shows just go direct to the consumer, in line with spectator sports, theatre and other entertainment?”

Definitely food for thought after New Zealand Fashion Week’s attempt to sell the business and the demise of Wellington Fashion Week.

Georgio Armani told WWD that, “opening runway

shows to the public would be confusing in terms of timing and would amplify and accelerate the system, you would see in March shows for fall and you would immediately want certain outfits that are not yet in production. This would require us to act in fast fashion, reorganising the entire pipeline, also surely changing the quality and especially the creativity, which is what fashion feeds on.”

Michael Kors also weighed in on the discussion saying, “the reality is that we have never in history had more people more interested in fashion and style than we do today. I would say there’s more attention on it than ever before, it’s not a private little insiders’ game anymore.”

“The consumer is actually shopping closer to need.

This is my biggest concern. When I do pre-fall, we ship cotton dresses and bathing suits because I think it’s insane not to. I don’t think that I can organize the entire global fashion calendar, but I certainly think that everyone would benefit from having fresh product in the store when the consumer wants it.”

Sarah

sarah@reviewmags.com

ON THE COVER: Photographer: CAITLAN MITCHELL Hair & Makeup: SHAZ MASSEY Shot at PARK GRAND PADDINGTON HOTEL in LONDON

The U.S. textile and apparel shipment total approached US$72 billion in 2014.

Monique McKenzie - monique@reviewmags.com Rossella Quaranta - rosella@reviewmags.com

ADVERTISING SALES

Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com

Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com

2 I October 2015

BY ANDREW WILSON When 40-year-old visionary designer Alexander McQueen committed suicide in February 2010, the fashion world was not ready to mourn him, let alone fill the huge void he left behind. ‘Blood beneath the skin’ is a first, comprehensive attempt to tell his life story, offering a kaleidoscopic portrait in which all of the facets of his personality seem inextricably intertwined.

Wilson wanted to show how, behind McQueen’s public facade of a confident bad boy who earned his place in the designers’ Olympus, lied a sensitive soul who was struggling to survive against increasing work pressures, depression, drug abuse and love failures. The result is a bitter fairy tale infused with tragedy and a very intimate tribute to his tormented genius, written with the help of his family.

BY BRANDON STANTON Launched five years ago as an ambitious online project to create a photographic census of the Big Apple, ‘Humans of New York’ ended up being one of the most inspiring blogs around, able to exceed one million hits per month and 12 million followers on its Facebook page. Photos and short interviews are both parts of its success, and the appeal has been so great that the first HONY book, published in 2013, had been a regular fixture in the New York Times Bestseller List. After travelling around the world on a goodwill mission for the United Nations, Stanton is now back with a follow up that presents an entire new group of humans, complete with their stories.

In 2012, approximately 88 billion units of apparel had been produced in China, and in 2013 the Asian giant accounted for more than one third of the world textile exports, followed by the European Union and India.

PUBLISHER Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com MANAGING DIRECTOR Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com EDITOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Thomas Fowler - tommie@reviewmags.com

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: Blood Beneath The Skin

HUMANS OF NEW YORK: STORIES

the NUMBERS . . .

As of March 2013, there were 195 UK enterprises in the textile manufacturing sector, with a turnover of more than 5 million GBP.

READS

PHILIP TREACY: Hat Designer

The 173,000 European companies active in the textile and clothing industry employ over 1.6 million workers.

SENIOR DESIGNER Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com PHOTOGRAPHER Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com ADMINISTRATION MANAGER Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com ISSN 1171-2287

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2015 NZ Apparel Magazine.

BY PHILIP TREACY AND MARION HUME “Every hat I have ever made has begun in my mind as a photograph. I can see it on the model, at the right angle, before I even begin,” Treacy once said, a statement that partially explains how he managed to become one of the most influential and innovative hat designers of this century.

For over 25 years, his imaginative creations have been worn by the British family and international celebrities such as Lady Gaga and Grace Jones. This book, curated by Treacy himself with international fashion editor Marion Hume, goes over the milestones of his career with 250 striking photographs, resulting in a highly personal journey through luxury, sophistication and, in fewer words, modern fashion.

Let us help you make the best match.

Call JACQUI 09 309 5020 or visit www.nzfashiontech.ac.nz

news

NEW CAMPAIGN FROM MCDONALD HOUSE

Ronald McDonald House Charities (RMHC) launched its annual fundraiser Stripes #forRMHC on October 7 which ran through to October 17.

The campaign had supporters purchase a pair of striped Ronald socks for $5 or a striped Helping Hand for $1, with all proceeds going to RMHC. Participants were encouraged to take a socksie (sock selfie) and post it across their social media using the hashtag #forRMHC to show support for the campaign and help raise awareness for the work RMHC is doing.

Since its inception in 1989, RMHC has developed its services to offer a range of support for families, including the Ronald McDonald Houses that provide an oasis for parents to remain close to their children in hospital. The service is free for families and runs at a cost of approximately $120 per night, per family, with RMHC housing over 3,500 families last year.

BURBERRY SALARY SLASHED

Following reports of declining Asian sales, the UK based retailer has cut Burberry Group Plc Chief Executive Officer, Christopher Bailey’s along with other staff’s bonuses and long-term incentives by as much as $46.5 million.

The brand, which receives more than 30 per cent of its revenue from Chinese customers, only receives 2 per cent from Japan, where many of them are shopping.

Over the last six months, shares have fallen below the level they were when Bailey replaced Angela Ahrendts as CEO in May 2014, plummeting as much as 13 per cent, the biggest drop since 2012.

4 I October 2015

BECKHAM EXPANDS INTO HONG KONG

Pop star turned fashion designer Victoria Beckham has confirmed she will open her second retail store in Hong Kong early 2016. The store is set to bring together Beckham’s two fashion labels, the original Victoria Beckham collection and VVS, a sister range currently being expanded.

“I’ve always wanted people to be able to come to the store, whether it was just to browse, look at the architecture, buy a key ring or a full runway look,” said Beckham. Her first flagship store in London has been well received, with Beckham designing the Hong Kong store to cater for every level of shopper.

SEMBLE SHINES AT INNOVATOR AWARDS 2015

Semble, the country’s first mobile wallet, has been highly commended for Financial and Professional Services at the New Zealand Innovator Awards 2015. Launched in March this year, the free Android app was also named a finalist in the Innovation in Information Communications Technology and Cloud Solutions and Innovation in Marketing and Communications categories.

Semble enables consumers to pay with their phones using secure, digital versions of their Mastercard and Visa cards. Users can also tag on and off with Snapper too; with more categories to follow. “Being highly commended for Financial and Professional Services and a finalist in two other categories is a fantastic endorsement after just six months in the market,” said CEO Rob Ellis.

NEW LOCATION FOR DOUBLE RL

Ralph Lauren has opened another retail location for its Double RL line, making this the third space in Manhattan. The store is stocked full of carefully curated items with emphasis on iconic denim pieces and vintage products including leather jackets, accessories, belts and jewellery. With most of its original fixtures still in place, the brand decided to stick with the buildings rustic period décor to further emphasise the image of Double RL. Ralph Lauren stepped down as chief executive officer in September and was replaced

by Stefan Larsson, executive, Gap Inc. “Stefan brings something special. Stefan has the sensitivity of design and of building a business and growing companies. That’s rare in our business. Usually, it’s one or the other,” said Lauren.

news

LOCATION ANNOUNCED FOR H&M NEW ZEALAND

AMERICAN APPAREL CHANGES

Purveyor of basics, hoodies and booty shorts is going through some changes according to a recent letter sent out by American Apparel. “A financial restructuring is taking place and follows a path of people and businesses including 50 Cent, American Airlines and Bloomingdale’s, that continue to thrive as successful brands,” the apparel giant stated.

“It is business as usual at American Apparel and we are excited as ever to bring customers great fashion basics. Our stores are open, e-commerce orders will continue to be fulfilled, gift cards will still be honoured and all of our standard policies regarding returns, exchanges etc, will remain in effect.”

The restructuring process will provide the company with the funds it needs to purchase materials for new products, and continue producing fashionforward, iconic apparel. “We look forward to continuing to serve customers as America’s largest domestic clothing manufacturer, providing fashionable basics, sweatshop free, and Made in the USA.”

International retail giant, H&M announced it would be opening its first New Zealand store in Auckland’s Sylvia Park mall. The store is set to open late 2016 as part of Sylvia Park’s $7.7 million investment to accommodate the brand and develop the surrounding area. “We are thrilled to be opening New Zealand’s first H&M store at Sylvia Park. We really believe in investing in Auckland’s growth, and bringing H&M to Sylvia Park is part of our plan to create a truly world-class retail offer in an increasingly world-class city,” said Chris Gudgeon, chief executive, Kiwi Property.

H&M is currently the second-largest fashion retailer in the world with more than 3500 stores across 57 countries, which comes to New Zealand shortly after competitor Topshop. Kiwi Property, which owns six shopping malls across New Zealand, is also looking at a further $150 million expansion of its flagship mall Sylvia Park, and a possible $50 million office development.

BOTANY DESIGN AWARDS

The second annual Botany Design Awards has had a record 85 garment submissions from students Auckland-wide. For the past few months, BDA’s entrants have been working on their designs and ideas in the hopes of taking home first prize at the awards. After designing, making and tailoring their creations, students and locals were able to see the work on display at Botany Town Centre. Judges this year include fashion photographer Adele Krantz, Vere Sharma from Ruby and Paige Carlyon who was last year’s winner.

“The BDAs provide students with an unparalleled avenue to showcase their creative side and display their designs for thousands of people who walk through the mall,” said Botany Town Centre senior marketing manager Desiree Clark. Last year’s inaugural award winner Paige Carlyon took home a NZ Fashion Tech scholarship, and since starting in March this year has loved every minute of it. “I have absolutely loved my time at NZ Fashion Tech so far. The tutors, the students, everyone has been so helpful and friendly and I’ve learnt so much. It’s a great school with so many opportunities to learn all the technical aspects,” said Carlyon.

This year’s overall winner will receive a $2000 NZ Fashion Tech scholarship, a $1000 Botany Town Centre gift card, a Purform tailors form worth up to $800, work experience at Ruby and brand and label design by Ideology.

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6 I October 2015

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news

YOUNG FASHION DESIGNER AWARD ANNOUNCED

Innovation and fashionforward design led the way at this year’s Newmarket Young Fashion Designer Award. Two up-andcoming young designers received awards and opportunities to kick start their fashion career at the runway held in Auckland’s MINI Garage this week.

Winner of the Supreme Senior Award was Abi Barnes, 16, who took inspiration from Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto and showcased an intricate knit bandeau and culottes combo, walked away with a two-year scholarship to Whitecliffe Collecge of Arts and Design.

“This is such an amazing opportunity and a real kick start to my career. There are so many different creative avenues to explore at a school like Whitecliffe. I can’t wait,” said Barnes.

Along with the scholarship, Barnes received a two week internship with New Zealand designer Taylor, a trip to an overseas fashion experience sponsored by Business World Travel and a silver lapel pin from Greg Holland Jewellery. Jodi Walker, who showcased an Alexander McQueen inspired look, won a two-week workroom internship with RUBY and Liam, taking out the top prize for the junior category.

APPAREL GOLF TOURNAMENT

This year’s Apparel Golf Tournament will be held at the Whitford Park Golf Club on Friday 4th December. For more information and to put your name down contact Trevor Hookway on 09 845 3888 or email Trevor@hawesandfreer.co.nz.

TEXTILE COLLABORATION RELEASE FARGO INSPIRED COLLECTION

Celebrating the release of Fargo season two, Remar Knitwear and the Textile Collective have been commissioned to collaborate over a knitwear collection. ‘A lovely place to get murdered’ was the theme set for the team, who fashioned nine exclusive designs that reflect Fargo’s unforgiving and brisk climate – not to mention its murderous residents. “What better way to acknowledge Fargo’s return than with a range of garments that celebrate the character’s lives in Luverne, Minnesota. Just like the show, they’re super nice on one hand, while mind-numbingly brutal on the other,” said Dave Joyce, general manager, Neon. Manufactured

by Remar Knitwear, the collection is 100% New Zealand merino wool and 100% New Zealand made. The collection was launched at Huffer’s Auckland headquarters, available exclusively through http://fargowoollens.tumblr.com/

WHY SPEND MONEY ON WAREHOUSING WHEN YOU COULD SPEND IT ON FASHION? In the garment business, warehousing can be a necessary evil. But if you use our storage facilities you’ll be saving capital that can be better deployed elsewhere in your business. Choose from our bulk warehousing service, or ask about our complete pick face solution to streamline your logistics.

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I7

menswear news

CRANE BROTHERS CELEBRATE 30 COLLECTIONS

Spring Summer 2016 marked designer Murray Crane’s 30th collection with Crane Brothers, which took an Italian turn this season.

Combatting the harsh Australian business summer, Italian influences allowed softer fabrics and

silhouettes to filter through the range with less rigid construction and more cotton, linen and light tropical-weight wool.

“Menswear is definitely taking on a softer silhouette and its something we have been working on for some time. Crane Brothers’ traditional tailoring business has always had more of a British focus – and this remains – but we cannot underestimate the importance of Italy, their fabrics and artisans,” said Murray Crane, director, Crane Brothers.

The Crane Brothers’ Made in Italy division has been growing so strongly that they have recently appointed a new senior associate experienced in ‘su misura’ tailoring to head it up.

Crane Brothers was established

by Murray Crane in 1999 and has gone on to establish itself as a leader in quality menswear and suiting within New Zealand.

KIMBER LAUNCHES IN NZ

Represented exclusively by Gubb & Mackie, London born but Australian based Christian Kimber has brought his offering of classic footwear to New Zealand. Along with a range of accessories, Christian Kimber shoes will be available at the Gubb & Mackie flagship store on Auckland’s Vulcan Lane, where Christian Kimber himself

personally assisted clients in selecting and fitting shoes during the launch.

Kimber moved to Australia in 2011 and soon discovered a market for classic garments, prompting the development of his own label. Each piece is hand made in Italy, with close attention to the quality and craftsmanship at the core of the brands ethos.

MENSWEARnews

BARKERS DEVELOP LIFESTYLE PORTFOLIO

New Zealand brand Barkers have launched a new cologne as part of its on-going growth into the lifestyle market. In conjunction with JVK Men Parfums, Rakino Weekend launched in September with a limited release of 100 units available at the Barkers stores.

The cologne draws inspiration from summer holidays at the bach,

surrounded by family, friends and nature, featuring deep marine accords and a pinch of sea grass.

“Rakino Weekend has been hugely successful. It has shown us that our customer is now shopping with us for more than just a fashion experience.

It is testament to the brand that we have been able to collaborate with a fragrance expert and this collaboration has opened up many possibilities to create exciting things in the future,” said General Manager, Merchandise and Brand, Paul Biddle.

The cologne comes off the back of Barkers ‘Baxter of California’ success, which established the brand as more than just an apparel provider.

As the company continues to grow, Biddle said Barkers is always looking at new opportunities and the success has proved the customer is hungry for premium, limited edition products.

SUIT HIRE OUTLET SHUTS DOORS

Pinned down to changing retail behaviour, Frank Casey Hamilton has made the decision to close its business. Owners Alison and Rob Willets bought the franchise two years ago but said the influx of cheaper offshore competition has made business impossible.

“We recognised the impact cheap Chinese-made suits was having on the business. It’s been a trend that’s been happening over the past five years.

People can now buy a suit for $100 and they think, why hire a suit when for the same price I can get a cheap suit and get a couple of wears out of it?” said Alison. Frank Casey will continue to operate in Auckland, Tauranga and Wellington.

8 I October 2015

LUXURY BRAND FOCUSSES ON MENSWEAR International Luxury retailer Dior is focussing its attention on menswear with the opening of a new Menswear specific store in Paris. The boutique store is stocked with the full range of men’s products, spread across two floors.

POP UP ACROSS THE DITCH

New Zealand menswear label I Love Ugly has opened a popup store in Sydney’s CBD. This marks the second retail location for I Love Ugly, situated next to the Nike store on Pitt St Mall, following the success of its flagship store in Melbourne’s Russell Place. The pop-up store is set to operate for six months and will stock the latest I Love Ugly ranges. I Love Ugly also operates another boutique in Los Angeles, which caters to the growing American market.

Additionally, the store also features Dior Tailleur atelier for customers to book one-on-one appointments with Dior tailors to fit custom orders – a popular option for the growing menswear market.

beauty news

BEAUTYnews

ZAC POSEN FOR MAC

MAC Cosmetics and Zac Posen are teaming up for a limited-edition colour cosmetics collection that will launch in February. The collection will be composed of a mix of eye, lip, cheek and brush products with special packaging. “Zac Posen has been a part of the MAC family for over 15 years, as we’ve been supporters from his first very first collection in 2001. Zac’s classic designs and deft hand in draping, textures and overall femininity evoke a kind of throwback glamour that still feels modern,” James Gager, senior vice president and group creative director of MAC Cosmetics said. Posen added, “Over the past 15 years I have learned a great deal from MAC about beauty. Fashion and beauty go hand-in-hand, I have always wanted to create a makeup collection to complement my designs and brand – it was only natural to work with MAC to create my first-ever signature collection. I wanted to keep it luxurious, a little mysterious and clean with a large dose of star wattage.”

MUSICAL NAILS

FABY’s new Music Collection is made up of a selection of 12 nail lacquers reminiscent of the sound of four musical genres. Embracing forward standards in the nail industry, FABY products are not tested on animals and are Big 5 Free, containing no DBP (Dibutyl Phthalate), Toluene, Formaldehyde, Formaldehyde Resin and Camphor. The collection can also be sampled with FABY’s Music Mini Set, which contains four Music shades in 5ml bottles, including Dedicated to Brigitte, Keep On the Sunny Side, Vincero! and Marry Me Robbie!

INNOVATION AND TRANSFORMATION

MURAD has introduced its new Transforming Powder, an innovation in acne treatment. The award winning, dual-action, water-activated powder quickly transforms from an exfoliating scrub into a light, foaming cleanser that gently provides a deep clean to acne-stressed skin. The product is specifically designed to deliver the ideal amount of both mechanical exfoliation using abrasive beads and chemical exfoliation using beneficial acids to blemish-prone skin. The result is a unique treatment in a powder form that provides the experience of a scrub and the purification of a cleanser, without the risk of overexfoliating. The Murad Transforming Powder was awarded the Best Exfoliator title by Shape Magazine (USA).

SMASHING NEW EYEBROW TOOLS

SMASHBOX are taking arches to new heights with three new additions to their Brow Tech Collection. The new Smashbox Brow Tech Matte Pencil is double-ended with a spoolie brush and ultra-fine pencil point. Its longwearing formula allows consumers to build on their brows and is non-smudging, water, sweat and humidity resistant.

The Smashbox Brow Tech Gloss Stick! is a slim pencil available in four different shades; Blonde, Taupe, Brunette and Dark Brown to pair with the Smashbox Brow Tech Matte Pencil. The Smashbox Brow Tech Highlight Stick is available in Gold Shimmer or Bronze Shimmer. The highlighting brow pencil smoothly glides on to give brows a subtle metallic colour with a unique multi-dimensional, shimmery finish.

FASHION SHOW SAT 14 NOV 5.30pm and 8.00pm A showcase of emerging fashion designers from Massey University College of Creative Arts.

Tickets available at eventfinda.co.nz creative.massey.ac.nz

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I9

ADIDAS MOVES TOWARDS AUTOMATION German sportswear retailer Adidas has announced its plans to open a fully automated shoe factory in Germany next year.

The new factory is part of Adidas’ plans to bring its production back to Germany, with the inclusion of new technology that will keep

production costs down.

Adidas will open its “Speedfactory” in the southern German town of Ansbach near its Herzogenaurach headquarters in 2016. Part of the announcement was the unveiling of a 3-D printed running shoe sole that could be tailored to an individual’s foot.

FOOTWEARnews

NEW PATENT FOR NIKE

After filing in September 2012, Nike has been granted the patent to print parts of its shoes. The patent was granted on October 13 for automated strobel printing which joins the underside of the shoe to the upper.

According to the patent abstract, the mechanism will work using images to which a computing device instructs a printer how to mark guidelines on the strobels that signify one or more strobel sewing lines for different shoe models and shoe sizes. Nike said the process will allow for reduced production time and assembly for each product.

ADIDAS UNDER FIRE ITALIAN BRAND LAUNCHES IN AUSTRALIA

The iconic Italian footwear brand Superga launched in Australia this month as a test before the brand commits to the Australian market. Exclusively available at Melbourne’s Topshop on Chapel St, Superga have set up a “mini casa” concept store that features foliage, furniture and a red Vespa out front. The shoes are available across three core Superga styles, each with its own set of varied colour ways.

The limited edition “Stretford”, which draws its inspiration from the English Premier League club Manchester United, has caused a stir in sporting communities for its misuse of colour. Fans of the club have slammed Adidas for its use of blue on the Stretford, a colour that is linked with arch-rival team Manchester City.

Adidas claimed to have taken its inspiration from the colour worn by Manchester United in its 4 – 1 victory match against Portuguese side Benfica in 1968, but supporters said the colour worn was much darker than what is featured on the Stretford. While the social media uproar was immense, it didn’t stop the two hundred long queue from waiting 18 hours to get a pair outside a Manchester store, with only 110 pairs available.

www.frostex.co.nz

Fashion • Corporate • Manchester

10 I October 2015

footwear news

BIG GOALS FOR PIER WALK

SELF-LACING SNEAKERS EXIST As predicted by the 1989 film Back To The Future II, a

International footwear giant Skechers announced a $1.2 million goal for this year’s Pier to Pier walk in Manhattan Beach, California. Last year the walk raised $1.1 million; with hopes that this year will see the brand beat its previous records. “It warms my heart to see the community join together every year to make a difference and build a better future for our children,” said Michael Greenberg, President, Skechers. The annual fundraiser has raised more than $4 million since its beginnings in 2009, which is used to support causes including upgrading school facilities and funding The Friendship Circle, an organisation aimed at helping children with special needs and their families.

pair of self-lacing Nike Air Mag sneakers are now in existence. The first pair was delivered to Michael J. Fox who played Marty McFly in the film, with proceeds being given to the Michael J. Fox Foundation. “We started creating something for fiction and we turned it into fact, inventing a new technology that will benefit all athletes. By imagining the future, we create it. Product that comes alive, with on-demand comfort and support when you need, product that senses you and adapts to you is right around the corner,” said Mark Parker, CEO, Nike. Fox received the shoes alongside a handwritten note from Nike’s top designer Tinker Hatfield with an illustration of Fox putting the shoes on. The Nike Air Mag 2015 is set to go on sale next year with a limited run.

CUSTOM FOOTWEAR RETAILER THRIVES

NEW YEEZY VARIANT

The much-anticipated Adidas Yeezy Boost 350 in beige will be released in November. Hip-hop musician turned fashion designer, Kanye West, was pictured wearing the new beige Boosts during the MTV Video Music Awards in August sparking widespread demand. West has also been seen wearing both a light grey and white version of the shoes, adding to the hype of the brand. “We sell shoes that people want to line up for because we put love in them, we put heart in them, we want to make Christmas presents, we want to make something that people want so bad that it hurts them if they can’t have it,” said West.

Since its launch, custom footwear retailer Willi Footwear has experienced positive growth within the Australian market. The start-up was crowdfunded with an original goal of $30,000, which was surpassed by $10,000 and is now retailing through various stockists across Australia. “We live in an age where people want to be able to customise their look to suit any occasion and their mood, and this product allows them to change their straps in 30 seconds to match their clothes or accessories,” said Brad Munro, founder and managing director, Willi Footwear. Munro said his vision tapped into a gap in the market, allowing the company to grow.

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I 11

GLOBALsnapshot DIOR HEAD STEPS DOWN

After only three years with the brand, designer Raf Simons has stepped down as creative director for Christian Dior. Simons said he had decided to step down in order to focus other elements of his life, including his namesake brand and external passions. “Christian Dior is an extraordinary company, and it has been an immense privilege to write a few pages of this magnificent book. I want to thank Mr. Bernard Arnault for the trust he has put in me, giving me the incredible opportunity to work at this beautiful house surrounded by the most amazing team one could ever dream of,” said Simons. Simons joined the team at Dior in 2012 following the dismissal of John Galliano in the wake of his anti-Semitic scandal, and produced six Dior collections a year, with Spring 2016 being his last.

NEW APPOINTMENT FOR BALENCIAGA

Following the recent departure of Alexander Wang, luxury brand Balenciaga has announced the appointment of designer Demna Gvasalia as its new creative director. Gvasalia founded cult label Vetements, and brings his experience to the international brand known for its understated refinement. François-Henri Pinault, president of parent company Kering – which also owns Saint Laurent and Gucci – praised Gvasalia on his unique approach to the profession, marked by a sociological observation of the wardrobe’s essentials.

FASHION GIANT, WORLD’S RICHEST MAN

For a brief moment, Amancio Ortega surpassed Bill Gates on the Forbes real time global rich list. Gates regained his position at the top after share prices of Microsoft surged 10 per cent.

At one point, Ortega was valued at $79.9 billion, but later in the day the Microsoft surge and fluctuating Euro had Ortega valued at $78.5 billion, with Gates valued at $79.3 billion.

Ortega, who is responsible for transforming Inditex from a tiny family dressmaker into Spain’s biggest company, currently holds a 59.3 per cent stake in the company, which operates international fast-fashion retailer Zara.

LABEL SUED OVER HOMOPHOBIC SLURS

Named after its gay founder, Perry Ellis International has been sued for alleged racist and homophobic slurs.

There are claims that the company’s president, Oscar Feldenkreis, demanded there were to be “no blacks in my ads” or “anyone who looked too gay”.

Perry Ellis International has categorically denied the claims brought forward by Joseph Cook, president, Original Penguin’s wholesale division, who said he was forced endure highly offensive homophobic and racial slurs.

Cook, who is gay, said he was frozen out and his role diminished when he complained about Feldenkreis.

CHIEF TO LEAVE UNDER ARMOUR

International sportswear brand, Under Armour Inc. is set to lose its CFO and COO in February with the resignation of Brad Dickerson.

Dickerson has been with the company since 2004, before its initial public offering and has been instrumental in the continued growth of the Under Armour, which reported $3billion in revenue last year. No disclosure of Dickson’s new position has been announced, although Under Armour have said it is outside of the athletic-apparel industry.

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12 I October 2015

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global snapshot

WATCH EXPORTS DECLINE

Swiss watch exports have had the biggest decline since 2009, prompting concerns that the Apple Watch is affecting demand for lowend timepieces. Shipments declined 7.2 per cent in the third quarter, which raised concerns with the Swiss, whose watch shipments make up approximately a tenth of total exports.

However, LVMH Moet Hennesey Louis Vuitton SE will start selling a TAG Heuer in November to meet demand for wearable technology, along with the announcement of a Swatch designed to make mobile payments in China in October.

NEW HEADQUARTERS FOR FENDI

After being closed for 72 years, the Palazzo was reopened as the new location for Fendi’s headquarters. The Palazzo was originally erected for the 1942 World Exposition, but was interrupted by the Second World War and has remained empty since the 1950s.

“Thousands of people who before could only take pictures of the outside will now be able to enter. Together with the Italian state and the community, we are very happy to be able to open this to the world,” said Silvia Venturini Fendi, granddaughter of co-founders, Edoardo and Adele Fendi. Fendi is now majority owned by the private investment firm LVMH, with fashion icon Karl Lagerfeld serving as creative director for the Fendi brand, having been with the brand for 50 years.

“When I came to Fendi, the first studio was under the roof, with no air conditioning. Bernard Arnault told me to be patient, and I was patient. Then he took it over and look what it has become. This building is just beyond,” said Lagerfeld.

NEW EXPERIENCE AT TOMMY HILFIGER

E-COMMERCE RATES EXPECTED TO SOAR

Tommy Hilfiger has introduced an innovative shopping experience where consumers are invited to watch the Fall 2015 Hilfiger Collection runway show in groundbreaking threedimensional, 360 degree virtual reality. Using a Samsung GearVR device, shoppers have the opportunity of an immersive virtual Statistical data aggregating firm experience that creates the experience of sitting live in the front statista.com has released a report row at Manhattan’s Park Avenue Armory. Users have a perfect forecasting e-commerce sales to rise view of the runway and an exclusive sneak peek backstage, an 27 per cent to $50.4 billion by 2018. experience that goes beyond that of VIP guests at the actual The firm said its analysis showed 40.2 event. The installation lives in a dedicated area in store that per cent of customers are buying reflects the American football theme of the Fall 2015 show, apparel online, and expect that figure alongside the Hilfiger Collection designs, which consumers can to rise to 52.4 per cent by 2020. shop immediately. “It’s a compelling and interesting elevation of the traditional shopping experience,” said Tommy Hilfiger CEO Daniel Grieder. “Our vision is to exceed customer expectations, inspire them, and offer retail experiences that they never thought possible while directly connecting them with one of our largest brand events each season.” The technology has been launched at the Tommy Hilfiger store on 5th Avenue in New York and will be followed by additional locations in London, Paris, Milan, Amsterdam, Dusseldorf, Florence, Zurich and Moscow.

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I 13

Kerri and

atini

Fiona and Sh

Kim - Sab

aron - Stap

le + Cloth

Maddie - Moochi Jace

This September, CWT presented an exclusive evening of fashion, food and cocktails to celebrate the exciting new Spring range at the Seafarers Members’ Club, attended by the country’s leading fashion design community. The launch event, which will take place seasonally at the esteemed venue, is one of the many new initiatives introduced by the company, under the leadership of GM, Aldo Miccio.

Miccio’s goal since his appointment is to ensure clients have a seamless experience from design development to delivery, by providing products and services that meet their quality standards and requirements. To achieve this, CWT will introduce a handbag manufacturing and garment CMT services from Italy and China respectively, and release Spring and Autumn capsule ranges to supplement the company’s biannual Summer and Winter collections.

The new Spring range aligns with the trends forecasted by WGSN, offering cotton linen slub twills, stretch denims, lace, jacquards, ponti knits and prints. These fabrications are rendered in the key colours for the season: navy, fuchsia, khaki,

alston

nique - D

na, Mo Julie - Ju

CWT

sand, red, limeade yellow, blood orange, black and white.

For over 25 years CWT has operated as one of the nation’s principal textile wholesalers.

Working with major fashion labels in New Zealand and Australia, CWT has continuously serviced the need for extensive and high quality fabric ranges.

Since the April 2014 acquisition by parent company Fashion Biz, CWT aims to grow the business and further expand into global markets.

With offices already established in Auckland, Sydney and Melbourne, CWT have additional agents in New York, Los Angeles, London, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Holland, Sweden, Norway and Denmark.

By the year-end, the company will see the opening of a new office in China and in the new year, will set up agents in Canada, South Africa, Dubai, Sao Paolo and Moscow.

The implementation of these new services and initiatives supports CWT’s endeavour to ultimately become the world’s leading supplier of on-trend, fashion forward fabrics and accessories.

Aldo -

Sue and Joanna - MacJays

bbey -

oore, A

drea M nta - An

ichelle

CWT, M

rah and Sa

ions

m Fash

Rando

colour trending

Some of our greatest stories come from the times spent adventuring through the campgrounds. Sitting around the campfire reciting tales of ghosts and ghouls, singing songs that flood our minds with memories.

Fashion is a memory and paints a picture of our history. Designs are revisited points in time, and much like the songs of a campfire, fashion can evoke powerful memories in us all.

Colour in fashion has this same effect, with a simple flash of green or red sending us into a reminiscent trance, reminding us of the great times spent with family, sitting around a campfire telling tales as old as time.

Junya Watanabe drew his inspiration from a single word, faraway. With clear links to tribal aesthetics, Watanabe experimented with patchwork fabrics in various abstract prints, and without being too derivative, materialised a camping lifestyle collection for the free spirit who isn’t afraid of the adventure. The collection had many wearable pieces, but its essence was unbound, without care or consideration to traditional construction techniques. In a colour similar to Resene Pizazz the neutral palette helped ground the collection, delivering a cohesive message of freedom.

The Missoni man is well travelled and doesn’t settle for long. Collecting as he travels, the story painted by Missoni this season was that of a nomad who endlessly roamed, exploring

Colours available from

Resene ColorShops www.resene.co.nz

0800 737 363

16 I October 2015

the vast offerings of the globe. The result was a mixed selection of fabric in a warm palette, with oranges similar in colour to Resene Guggenheim. Textiles appeared comfortable and easy to wear, casual but still well conceived.

All that was missing is a harmonica and some company, things I’m sure can be found along the way.

While Raf Simons may have curated his menswear collection around the concept of a military jacket, this one red creation set itself apart from the rest. Similar in colour to Resene Komakorau from a distance it appeared to take on the form of the campfire, mimicking the dual tone weaving of flames as they desperately reach for the sky before fading into nothing.

The construction and colour choice speaks volumes of how inspiration can be found in the most minute elements, and however unintentional, are still effective in prompting a reaction.

In a New Zealand environment, the tartanesk print of a flannel shirt is almost symbolic of the countryside, and without a doubt always present during a camping expedition. Sacai transformed the flannel pattern, pairing it with lightweight fabrics for spring, that still evoke vivid memories for a New Zealand consumer.

Similar in colour to Resene Bullseye the solid red is forever engrained in the history of our country culture, and is inescapable whenever you’re away from the city.

JUNYA WATANABE Resene Pizazz

RICK OWENS Resene Bonfire

MISSONI Resene Guggenheim

ROBERT GELLAR Resene Pendragon

RAF SIMONS Resene Komakorau

SACAI Resene Bullseye

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 17

photoshoot

ModelTalks with

Bridie MORRIS The international blonde bombshell, Bridie Morris, was first discovered at the young age of 13 at a hair salon, but didn’t sign with 62 Models until she was 17 and living in Auckland. Since then she is rapidly becoming one of New Zealand’s top models.

From driving jeeps over fake bridges in Sydney to riding camels in Egypt to being a faux bride surrounded by stuffed zebras in a luxury English countryside mansion, the highlight of her career Bridie says “is the amount of travel I’ve been able to do, which has been a platform to meet a range of people in weird and wonderful circumstances.”

Bridie describes modeling

as a series of spontaneous events where “There either is no plan or if you think there is, it’s probably going to change, which at times can be very impractical for everyone involved”. Despite the range of achievements under her belt already, she misses New Zealand. Her love of home isn’t just friends and family, but the entire industry is so much friendlier and warmer in comparison to other countries she has worked in. “Maybe I’m biased, but New Zealand has produced some of the coolest creatives in the world. I love being surrounded by so many artistic minds and being part of such an inspiring community of talented, happy individuals.”

When asked if she had any advice for younger fresh faces who want to model overseas, Bridie replied “Just go do it right now, try and see what happens. You’ll always wish you did and regret it if you don’t. Give it 110% and be as memorable as you can. Even if that means always saying hello in Japanese, fashion people love weirdos.”

18 I October 2015

photographer CAITLAN MITCHELL / makeup and hair SHAZ MASSEY / shot at PARK GRAND PADDINGTON HOTEL in LONDON

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 19

designer profile

DESIGNER PROFILE:

FREDERIKA COOK from Pleasure State

Pleasure State has appointed a new design director and by the looks of things, intimate apparel is about to get a whole lot more interesting and a whole lot less predictable.

Frederika Cook is that fabulously attractive mix, genuinely curious about lots of subjects and seriously smart. As a child she did not have a singular focus but rather wanted to do and try everything, and by doing, discover if she actually enjoyed it. She had no idea what she wanted to do with her life after school and graduated from university with a Mathematics degree.

“I took the long way round into fashion,” said Frederika.

“I didn’t take the scenic route, I got lost in the haunted forest along the way!”

Childhood memories, however, are of combing through new editions of Vogue and Collezione with her mother, relishing colours and details.

“There’s this institution of a magazine and book shop that was originally located in the back streets behind Oxford Street in London, called R.D Franks – it had all sorts of printed wonders, that we used to visit when I was young. I remember my mother buying me books of paper dolls that were dedicated to different designers,” said Frederika.

Her first job was with Wacoal where she learned the basics; then she started Bordelle and Dietrich, two boutique brands, and went on to Agent Provocateur before Bendon.

In true Frederika fashion, she has no formal fashion education, she taught herself everything from CAD drawing to pattern cutting, asked for help from whoever was willing to impart their wisdom and learned from her mistakes.

20 I October 2015

Whilst not having a fashion degree has clearly not impeded her success, Frederika admitted that being sure of your future in the industry and pursuing a fashion education would allow you to be surrounded by like-minded people that much sooner.

Frederika approaches design holistically.

“I always approach it with a ground-up perspective,” she explained.

“I make sure that every element of the garment has been fully considered, even for our more accessible price point ranges.”

Her very first intimate apparel design was a corset that she cut and sewed herself. The ‘seams’ were held together with hook and eyes that had a vintage industrial aesthetic.

“The fabric had such a high fabric weight that the needle kept getting stuck, I used my teeth to pull out the needle and chipped my tooth!”

As with any brand, Frederika sees the challenge as having to remain relevant.

“There will always be competition but the trick is to know what makes your brand unique and to have the foresight and courage to evolve,” she said.

It follows then that it is critical that you know your customer.

“The Pleasure State customer is confident, elegant, mesmerizing, and she is all of these things effortlessly.

It is this effortlessness that makes her alluring, you become seduced,” Cook said of her target market.

Having just completed her SS17 collection,

Frederika is incredibly excited to see her first prototypes come through. Customers can expect shades of stone and beige, denim tones and tonal contrasts. Inspiration comes from her own moods as well as seasonal global trends.

Advice for the next generation of designers is to learn how to take criticism and to find the right company that can match your aesthetic and personality.

“Designing comes from the heart and not everyone knows how to give constructive criticism so you can’t take it personally.”

When asked about hobbies Frederika admitted that when your work is your passion, it is very often your hobby as well but true to form, outside the office she can be found doing anything challenging and adrenaline-inducing.

Frederika Cook is a ‘seamingly’ perfect fit for Bendon’s Pleasure State brand.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 21

vancouver fashion week

VANCOUVER FASHION WEEK 2015

Returning for its 26th consecutive season, Vancouver Fashion week showcased over 100 international designers across seven days. Founded in 2001, producer Jamal Abdourahman has since turned the week into the West Coast’s most prestigious event that actively seeks out international talent to showcase, drawing attention from fashion influences across the globe.

This year, the event was held at the Chinese Cultural Centre, an indoor venue much different to previous events. The site change came as a relief for attendees who remember the torrential rain that invaded the previous Vancouver Fashion Week, with water leaking onto the runway and soaking the carpets throughout the venue at the Queen Elizabeth Plaza.

“Even though the tent was beautiful and the location was great, we had rain coming from up and down,” said Abdourahman.

22 I October 2015

The showcase of SS16 collections included runways from returning favourites, Shravan Kumar, Green Embassy and local designers Eliza Faulkner and Alex S Yu. Included in the international offering were three New Zealand designers, Leanne Greaves of Liann Bellis, Frances Jerard and Carmen Kirstein who all received widespread international exposure.

Greaves was lucky to make it to Vancouver after suffering a head injury the night before she was due to board the plane.

“It was a nasty fall. I tripped on the stairs and fell down, and when I tumbled to the bottom, I hit my face on a chair and ended up splitting my head open,” said Greaves.

The show was inspired by the elements. Earth, wind, fire and air came together with a 1970s influence that incorporated contrasting textiles ranging from leather to silk.

The breakthrough designer however was 15-year-

old Tieler Garsaud, who finished up a series of fashion week appearances with Vancouver.

Since winning Project Runway: Threads, Garsaud has been on a fast-paced fashion whirlwind, having showcased at fashion weeks in Pensacola, Austin and New Orleans. His debut SS16 collection is the amalgamation of his experiences that featured a strong formal theme with a modern twist on classic silhouettes, all with Renaissance influences.

Much like any other fashion week, a series of trends emerged giving an indication of the industry direction moving forward. Silk and the 70s stood out, along with the use of eco-friendly material, whilst soft makeup and natural hair proved a popular choice for designers aspiring towards an effortless look. Accessories were carefully considered, with designers staying within the natural palette of gold, silver, black and white.

The show was inspired by the elements.

Earth, wind, fire and air came together with a 1970s influence that incorporated contrasting textiles ranging from leather to silk.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 23

the key PIECE

THE CAPE

@third_from

@miss_crabb

@stapleandcloth

It may seem dramatic, and in some cases it can be, but a cape can be the key piece in pulling together an ordinary look and transforming it into a fashion-forward statement. Paired with a slim-fit pant and a shirt, a cape will add dimension to your outfit, introducing texture and volume that will help transition your outfit from day to night.

The secret in successfully incorporating a cape into your wardrobe is in the fabric and colour choice. Avoid anything too vivid or heavy. You want the cape to elevate your style, and move freely as you stride down the street. Neutral tones are safe, in a plain wool or cashmere blend. For the more fashion-forward customer, try more structured fabrics that create dramatic shapes, but be careful not to pick something that looks too much like a costume prop.

The Cameo Collective have a basic black cape that is fool proof and will enhance almost any combination. Australian boutique, Elliatt, have a similar style cape in crisp white, which is a refreshing change to the common darker tones popular capes.

If a cape is too much, the same silhouette can be achieved with this split sleeve Bryant shirt in white from Taylor Boutique, which gives all the volume of a cape without the added layer. All of these can be paired with bright prints for summer days, or crisp tailored pieces for the office.

accessoryALERT

WORSHIP ME

@rebeccaminkoff

@trishpeng

24 I October 2015

Growing jewellery brand Shh by Sadie has released its latest offering of bridal jewellery featuring personally handcrafted pieces made from exquisite materials.

The collection titled Worship Me consists of several pieces featuring luxurious crystal quartz,

creamy freshwater pearls, shimmering sea shells, European crystals and high quality gemstones.

Worship me is currently available through select boutiques internationally, with stockists in New Zealand, Australia, Hong Kong, Guadalupe, Portugal, UK and the USA.

trendwatch

IT’S ALL IN THE WAIST

Fashion is always about putting a modern twist on an aged classic. The 70s has been the focus point for designers with the high waisted pant emerging again as a bold trend that has moved seamlessly between runway and sidewalk.

While the models on the runway often sport a skin-tight size of what looks like sprayed on leggings, the high waist trend can be worn across various shapes and sizes.

Anthropologists have theorised about a magical hip-to-waist ratio that is linked to men’s attraction to woman, something the high waisted pant is designed to achieve, but the secret is in balancing what should be loose with what should be tight. Much like any other style of dress, the key is in balancing proportions and knowing what to accentuate on the body.

Paris fashion week saw high waisted pants replicated across countless colour palettes and fabric choices.

Saint-Laurent took its punk rock theme and produced an almost suffocating pair of skin tight leather pants, cut just above the ankle giving what seemed to be an extra foot of leg length.

Louis Vuitton also opted for a leather version, but cut the pant just off the leg for a relatively casual look.

Isabel Marant pushed the boundaries further with

the shape, showcasing an extreme high waist in a busy floral print that somehow effortlessly pulled together strong construction elements with soft fabric.

Away from the catwalk, retail chains and boutique designers are also picking up on the trend, pushing out affordable variants with the same formula in mind.

Sass & Bide have a full range of high waisted pants that range across various fabrics from white cotton to sheer black chiffon, along with Ruby and Liam who both featured high waist pant variants in their Summer 2015 collections.

Looking at all the pieces from a distance, a clear theme of empowerment and femininity emerges, a common narrative that has been at the forefront of fashion as designers look at the feminism movement that is centred around building women up to embrace their bodies and take control of their style rather than being dictated by guidelines.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 25

behind the business

SUCCESS UNDER

30

Anna-Lise Sharma Brand Manager - Ruby

nuts&BOLTS

Su Pearson Production Manager Caroline Sills

26 I October 2015

It is no surprise as to why Anna-Lise Sharma is successful, even within the first couple of minutes meeting her. Sharma is a well-spoken, intelligent, upfront and beautiful young woman who is on the fast track to having a successful career in the business of fashion and currently working in the family business.

Sharma’s father, Vere Sharma began De Vere Textiles from their living room in Devonport, and in 2009 her mother Christine turned her attention to retail and bought New Zealand-based fashion label Ruby.

“I have been part of the family business from the beginning,” said 25 year-old Sharma. She studied a Commerce Degree at Auckland University, majoring in marketing and commercial law. She describes herself as a ‘creative but with a business mind’ and does not remember any ‘aha’ moment that defined what she wanted to do with her life, rather, she explained that her career just evolved, having always wanted to put her business skills and need for order and symmetry to use but she also knew that it had to be in a creative industry. “I decided on the business side of the fashion industry for obvious reasons.” At university, she worked in retail at Ruby and shortly after set out to become an intern at Showroom 22 to further her knowledge of the industry.

“I was already interested in working in the fashion industry so I knew that I had better start learning how it worked. There were no jobs waiting for me at Ruby, I needed to earn my place in the industry and in the family business,” said Sharma.

So whilst working at Ruby, and studying full time she began her internship at Showroom 22. Two years later, while still studying, the position of showroom manager came up at Showroom 22. Sharma stepped into the role, being given time off to attend lectures while she held down a full-time job. She was about to go to the U.S for a year on a graduate visa when the

position of brand manager became available at Ruby.

It would be understandable to think that this position may have been kept for her had she decided to pursue this goal, what with Ruby being a family business, but that is not how this particular family works. She realised that if she went to the States for a year, the position of brand manager would not be available to her so she gave up that idea and interviewed for the job.

Starting her role as brand manager for Ruby in 2013, her job entails overseeing and managing the showroom, social media platforms and organising events. This is Sharma’s favourite part of the job, event planning and co-ordination. She learned the ropes at Showroom 22 and said that in another life she would love to work for the huge PR companies that organise international fashion weeks.

Sharma is in the process of moving into buying and sales at Ruby, ever-increasing her set of work skills and continuing to learn the business. Although rather daunted at the moment, she loves the analytical side of sales. “The perfection, finding out what fits where and finding out what works…numerically, not just creatively.” Despite feeling that in the beginning, her age, and the fact that she looks younger than she is, made it hard to be taken seriously. That, and the fact that she works in a family business, Sharma has cemented herself in the industry and has grown with each role to the successful individual she is today with a bright future. “You have to work twice as hard to be taken seriously in a family business,” said Sharma.

And it is clear that Anna-Lise is not shy of hard work.

So how does one become successful under 30? “It’s all hard work. No–one is lucky. Go for what you want and if you have an inkling of what you want to do then go and ask if you can work there. Put yourself out there. Ask for help. Oh, and always be honest and real.”

Delivering fashion collections is no easy job for even the most seasoned designer, and without a loyal support staff it may be close to impossible. Chief among support staff is the fashion production manager and Su Pearson is that person at Caroline Sills – a leading New Zealand designer and powerhouse in the Australasian market. Su does not, however, call herself the Production Manager. She openly admits that she is in Crisis Management, and all official documents go out from her office with that title.

Caroline Sill’s designs are synonymous with unwaveringly high quality standards, and Su is largely responsible for that quality. Her job is ‘all about getting garments beautifully made, on time.’

With so much on the line, Su certainly knows her stuff and has a wealth of experience. She studied design and pattern making in the UK and went on to work for a UK clothing company that supplied Marks and Spencer. There were two design studios, one in London and one factory-based in Glasgow.

“I was based in the London studio and used to fly to Glasgow every Monday to work in the factory there. It was a huge operation. M&S bought styles in thousands of dozens. A trial run of a style was 500 dozen. That sure grounded me!” said Su. She then went on to work as a design consultant for another large chain of department stores in the UK before returning to New Zealand with her partner and young family in 1999. Su’s childhood was far removed from anything fashion or design-related; she grew up in Taihape and went to Taihape College “I don’t remember the words design or garment production ever being uttered in the career’s office.

Career options were limited to teaching, nursing or

secretarial work. It made me fiercely determined to find another career path and I plotted my escape.”

Su does believe that some sort of formal education in the garment industry would assist with employment opportunity but admits that after that, it all comes down to getting experience and having an on-going interest in the process. Being organised is clearly integral to crisis management but Su adds that understanding garment makeup is also essential as problems always come up and it is beneficial to be able to offer solutions.

“Discussing issues if there is a problem, asking others for their opinion – an inclusive approach makes you feel less vulnerable if things turn to custard.”

The importance of team work is what the job has taught Su. Pricing has always been and will always be the biggest challenge to her job, “Especially with the fluctuating dollar – it obviously impacts on both NZ production and garments sourced abroad.” And the biggest change that she has noticed in the industry is the ease of communications “Even local makers with English as a second language are happy to email. I am looking forward to burying the fax machine!” A typical day begins with answering mail, and then it’s on to pricing, booking fabric, putting orders up to the factories, checking pre-production samples and checking production.

“It’s mostly about organising the flow of fabric, garments and information.” Su’s advice to young up and coming Crisis Managers is to find good people to work for and to work with. “Enjoying (or at least not minding) coming into work each day is essential.”

With over 100 loyal wholesale accounts in New Zealand, Australia and South Africa, Caroline Sill’s renowned quality is in good hands.

inDETAIL

ILABB Ilabb is built on the concept of collaboration, the true nature of creativity, and has awarded the company a strong reputation for producing innovative concepts that step outside of the normal boundaries of fashion.

Unlike traditional releases that follow seasons, Ilabb have taken on a steady release model that delivers consistent new offerings for customers throughout the year, producing work that is trans-seasonal to be worn all year round.

The latest collection, the experimentalists, revolves around the concept of scientific influenced design in an effort to drive forward innovation and discover a new unique – something the brand is no stranger to doing.

“A lot of our collaboration choices have come from our consumers. We know our customer shreds for R&V, amps on Mad Mike and eats BurgerFuel, so for us it’s kind of natural that we do too. I think we’re lucky to come from a country like New Zealand where there’s a big community atmosphere. A lot of our collaborations begin out of our own networks, and just by connecting with companies and people we find inspiring,” said Seadon Baker, CEO, Ilabb.

Looking at the inspiration board behind the experimentalists is an exciting visual journey.

Multi-coloured abstract patterns mixed with digital technology paint a picture of a collection set to be flooded with full spectrum colour, but what Ilabb does is translate these abstract images into a commercially successful range of clothes. The collection spans across menswear and womenswear, in a palette of black, white and blue with a hint of purple, alongside a range of varied prints and contrasted textiles.

True to its name, the experimentalists is like a test of what can be paired with what, with the main focus of the collection being in the contrasted textiles, whether it be in the sleeve or right through the middle of a shirt. Collaboration would seem to be so engrained in the brand culture

that the collection could be described as finding the perfect collaboration between contrasting elements.

“Inspiring collaboration is something that’s been in ilabb’s DNA from day one and we are big believers that all these things can’t be done alone, not the creation nor that personalisation,” said Baker.

The next step for Ilabb is to tackle Australia from a global perspective, as a fully capable retailer rather than a small New Zealand independent looking to expand. “It’s a bit harder to crack into as they’ve already got some good brands there. There’s a few markets we want to play in, but America is head and shoulders the biggest and strongest when it comes to the action sports,” said Matt Saunders, creative director, Ilabb.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 27

edited

Why Street Style Is Important Now? During fashion weeks when so much focus is on what’s in store for next year, the immediacy of street style inspires consumers to shop now.

The oft-shared looks are weather appropriate and peer-backed. Social media liberates consumers from editors’ verdicts and let’s them indulge their highest-form-of-flattery impulse: imitation. These trends convincing because they’re seen on people with aspirational lifestyles and not confined to the fake constructs of the runway. Yeah, we know there’s nothing in that tiny clutch bag on the runway.

WITHOUT FURTHER ADO, HERE ARE OUR TOP 5 STREET TRENDS FROM THE SPRING 2016 SHOWS! 1. Denim Ain’t Broke You won’t get a fashion editor attending a fashion show in her Lululemons. Yet. Denim is alive and kicking on the stylish streets, in all forms. Frayed cutoff jeans, rips and shreds, jumpsuits, culottes, wrap skirts, shirting and jackets: denim was the headline story. It’s all blue and indigo and mostly it’s loose fit: the straight leg and mom jean shape ruled the roost.

Retailers are backing it: 18% of frayed denim currently online arrived in the last month and of all denim currently online, 48% is retailing in the premium market. Push to the front of visual merchandising now and keep stocking into those wider styles and cropped jean lengths into next year.

2. Biker Jackets There’s nearly 11,000 women’s biker jackets currently online, with Farfetch and Yoox the biggest stockists, but that doesn’t mean they’re at saturation point. Biker jackets have become the denim jacket of yesteryear – there’s one out there for everybody. In the past 12 months, new arrivals peaked in August.

Traditionally they lift in December, so we’re expecting this December to beat last year’s. Slim fitted, 80s oversized, sherpa lined (and not just the traditional cream wool) and colored leather versions were spotted on the streets of the fashion capitals. The latter two will be a good mass market update for Fall 2016.

3. Military Precision Mirroring the utility looks seen on the runways for Spring ’16 were the show goers – evidence of runway trends moving simultaneously with retail trends. Looks on the street centred around the khaki palette and outerwear. The military shirt, in soft cotton or silk was a hit when paired with the frayed denim also trending.

This trend focuses on fastenings – be they polished gold buttons, shoulder epaulettes, zippers meaning business or waists cinched tightly with serious-looking belts. An askew beret might be a touch too far for any pacifist, but will work well in visual merchandising!

4. Racy Red Outerwear An unexpected trend was the number of pieces of

28 I October 2015

scarlet outerwear spotted on the street. From capes to faux furs, from trenches to sequinned macs – all done in popping shades of lipstick red. There’s over 8,200 pieces of women’s red outerwear online currently, with the fastest selling amongst them a patched wool parka at ASOS and a tweed wrap coat at H&M. Now is the time to promote statement outerwear, so push them to the fore of social and email campaigns, then think about discounting in late November.

5. Coloured Faux Fur Stoles slung over jackets, cocooning clouds of fluff and bright jolts of unexpected trim. Colored fur’s runway appearance last season is already having impact in early Fall. Understandably, a 55% majority of non-typically colored fur currently retailing is in the outerwear category. But it’s the 22% accessories, 14% footwear and 5.5% in the tops category that’s especially interesting and potential to fast trend movement this Fall. This trend opens the gateway to more play with texture for Fall 2016. Retailers should keep hunting new colors and working color-mixes into garments and accessories.

STYLING PIECES

Here’s the best way to style the pieces you already have in your assortment to reference the street: 1. Statement jumper + skirt Whether it’s a mini skirt, a wrap skirt or a midi, stylish women at fashion capitals were pairing their inseason skirts with thick knits and statement sweaters.

Add in heels, sneakers and a clutch (see below). It’s a

great transitional look which can be taken into deeper winter with 70s knee-high boots and an oversized coat.

2. White shirts, anyway The white shirt was already having a fashion moment, but safe to say it’s continuing. They were paired with everything – worn boxy and buttoned-up with jeans, tucked into plissé skirts, layered beneath dungarees… even worn backwards. Don’t limit this item to one category. Instead, think of its layering properties – they are many.

3. Clutch bags Whether it’s meant to be a clutch, or whether you can just grab a soft crossbody and run with it – this is the bag shape of the moment. Kitsch prints and motifs, faux fur or soft, unstructured leather all got a run for their money.

4. Sneakers Still absolutely everywhere. From lo-fi pairings with jeans, to juxtaposition against luxe dresses, the comfiest of footwear still gets top kudos.

5. Loose Cuffs Riffing on the androgynous theme, men’s shirts with French cuffs were worn trailing for a little dose of Parisian insouciance. Jumper sleeves too were worn over-long in a play with proportion.

By Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITD

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