Apparel Magazine | August 2019

$ 9.00

AUGUST 2019 I VOL 52 I NO 08

Congratulations on attaining your 50th Anniversary.

Please accept our very sincere thanks for all your efforts in providing a voice to the New Zealand apparel industry. Without Apparel we would be a rudderless ship, to have our monthly message of advertising our product and the occasional support editorial featured over the last 15 plus years has created a special bond with this publication. There have been lots of changes over the years but the one constant still exists “Apparel is still being published.”

Well done Apparel Team! We are looking forward to continuing our support in the years to come.

Bruce Moore

Propress Professional Steamers

Parisian congratulate Apparel Magazine on their 50th Anniversary. Achieving a milestone of this magnitude is no mean feat and testament to the dedication of this family business in serving their reader community.

Behind Apparel is a team whose support for the industry goes way beyond the physical production of their magazine. As part of that very community, we have thoroughly enjoyed our partnership with Apparel throughout these 50 good years.

Congratulations.

John Crompton & The Parisian Team

Congratulations!

50 years is an incredible achievement to be in business, and to still be in family hands. Here is to another 50 Apparel, wishing you all the best!

Congratulations on 50 years of Apparel magazine. What an amazing milestone!

We hope your 50th year is as fabulous as the first 49 years have been.

Dame Denise L’Estrange-Corbet WORLD

The Resene Team

50 years is a long time...

And to witness all the changes in those decades is an amazing feat with Apparel, now returned to its original owner after not a few years in the wilderness. We have advertised in Apparel many times over the years and while others have come and gone there is a sense of inherent reliability in a magazine that continues to represent a creative industry with insight and also reflects our ability to reinvent itself to meet the everchanging times we live in. Long may it continue.

Glen Wilkin-Holland Purfex

Huge congratulations on Apparel’s 50th birthday, and especially to you Peter.

There are not many of us left from the old days, the 60’s fashion houses that formed a most vibrant force in the fashion industry, in those tariff duty days, when fashion was full of potential, creative, growing and exporting all over the world. The stories that, we the survivors, could tell. Anyway, look forward to seeing you very soon, over a drink, the way it always used to be!

Again congratulations.

Tony Milich

SABATINI

editor ’ s note

A proud legacy continues My earliest memories are of going to the office and "working". My first job at Apparel was to make sure that all the subscription notices went out, a job I was paid five cents for each envelope I completed. The catch was that my mother thought that penalising me 50 cents for putting the letter the wrong way round in a window envelope (and sealing it, rendering it wasted) would teach me a lesson about money and budgets. Bearing in mind that I was four, this was a harsh lesson to learn, but I persevered for that one dollar lollie bag.

Today, my siblings and I carrying on the legacy of this business which is both a challenge and a privilege. Our parents have always told us "be passionate about what you do, the rest will follow" and this has never been a truer statement than today. The fashion industry is an ever-changing beast, a fast-paced world where margins are tight

and the world of New Zealand fashion is a small village. We are heavily invested in what you do, like I say there's no replacing me, I'll be here until I die.

An editor of Apparel many years ago asked me as I wandered through the office as a young child what I wanted to be when I grew up. "I'll have your job!" I said excitedly, they didn't like that answer too much. Years later, I ran into the same person, and they asked what I was doing and I said: "I have your job!"

Taking over the editor role has been a joy, a challenge, and at times my father and I have had heated discussions on the direction of the magazine, but through it all, I am proud to continue his legacy.

P.S - I'm still the fastest at stuffing envelopes in my office to this day.

Fifty-five years ago I was editing Clothing & Footwear News for international publishers Thomsons. And the rag trade, as it has done to many others, just sucked me in. So after five more years, I reckoned I could do it by myself – and Apparel was born.

Even though my family had a long history of linen milling back in Ireland, I was simply prompted as a journalist to go down this route because of the great people in the trade and the excitement of each seasonal dash. It was a crowded textile, garment and footwear industry in those early days in which you easily got caught in the whirlpool of laughter, lies, losses and the lunatics. But I wouldn’t have missed it

for the world.

Admittedly it’s a changed world today with the characters disappearing, no import protection that once ensured a total local game and the industry strength now lying with the retailers. No more going to Paris and photographing their current season in shop windows, rushing it back into production and setting colour, style and direction for the local fashionistas.

It has been a lot of fun over the fifty years of Apparel – lots of good people, many friends made and a lovely family of my own to carry on the work I started with such enthusiasm.

Caitlan Mitchell caitlan@reviewmags.com

Peter Mitchell

fast five

SUMMER BLUES

HAVE YOU TESTED YOUR PRODUCTS? TESTEX is a globally operating and independent Swiss textile testing and certification institute with a focus on textile testing.

Sustainability, transparency and ethical standards are core principles to which it is committed. With its testing and certification services it supports manufacturers, suppliers, dealers, brands and end-users.

TESTEX has been a member of the OEKO-TEX® association since 1993, where OEKO-TEX® enables consumers and companies to protect our planet by making responsible decisions. Offering companies of the textile and leather industry several certifications and services to have their products tested for harmful substances by independent institutes, and to optimise their production conditions and their supply chains with regard to sustainability. All TESTEX services offer independent certifications, have international validity, and test criteria and limit values are in conformance with relevant current national and international regulations.

The latest additions to TESTEX’s services include GMO cotton testing and the extension of STeP by OEKO-TEX® to cover leather facilities too.

Today, about 70 percent of the cotton grown globally is genetically modified, making certain cotton types resistant to pests or pesticides. Whether the modified cotton actually lives up to this promise out in the fields is being questioned more and more.

Demand for GMO free and organic cotton is growing rapidly, as consumers are increasingly worried about the environment and harmful substances in the products they wear, and want to see independent proof on the labels of the garments they buy. The DNA-analysis allows TESTEX to make a clear yes or no statement regarding genetic modifications in cotton. The procedure is applicable to all textiles within the textile value chain, from the cotton fields to the store. All GMO free textiles receive the

HOMECOMING In the heart of Auckland, Gore Street welcomes Allbirds’ first bricks and mortar offering. Tim Brown first launched the footwear label to raise the profile of merino wool.

The flagship store in Auckland’s

4 I August 2019

TESTEX Proven Quality label which contains a statement confirming they are GMO free.

Meanwhile, the leather market is constantly growing. Leather remains an important part of most brands’ portfolio as it is a timeless material which can be found in many garments. Leather is both expensive and durable so consumers expect quality. In an age of climate change and increased awareness concerning environmental issues, they want to have a good conscience by buying safe and sustainable leather. For this reason, TESTEX has built on the LEATHER STANDARD by OEKOTEX® by extending STeP by OEKO-TEX® to cover leather facilities too as of April 2019. STeP by OEKO-TEX® is a certification for environmentally friendly and socially responsible textile and leather production facilities which consists of six modules: chemical management, environmental performance, environmental management, social responsibility, occupational health and safety and quality management.

Being a natural product which needs to be preserved, leather processing uses a significant amount of chemicals. For this reason TESTEX has a continuous exchange with industry representatives such as the ZDHC to ensure the certifications fulfil the most stringent requirements. TESTEX takes a holistic approach with their comprehensive portfolio, offering globally recognised certifications which cover the whole supply chain from input, through process, to output. The LEATHER STANDARD

by OEKO-TEX® is the only one of its kind on the market that tests such a wide range of chemicals for harmful substances. It can also be combined with the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® for garments or accessories which contain both leather and textile components.

For more information visit www.testex.com.

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26 AUGUST 2019 | 1 SEPTEMBER 2019

SHOWS + SESSIONS 2019

28

29

WED

THUR

AUG

1.00 - 3.00PM

10.00AM

Registration Desk

Offsite

6.00 - 7.30PM

11:30AM

EARLY REGISTRATION

NZFW OFFICIAL OPENING FUNCTION

Invitation Only Great Hall 8.30PM

KATE SYLVESTER

Runway

YU MEI JOJO ROSS

Concert Chamber 1.00PM

MAGGIE MARILYN

10.30AM

BENJAMIN ALEXANDER

Offsite

12.00PM Collections

SOPHIE JOY, RHEMY, OLLI, FUMOSO

Offsite

Runway

2.00PM Contemporary Salon

1.00PM Collections

Concert Chamber

Concert Chamber

3.00PM Collections

2.00PM

JACQUELINE ANNE COUTURE

ADHALA LENZO, ARITAUA, AFRISPEC GLOBAL, SCHMOOD BY LOLA

Runway 4.00PM

LEMON TREE, RHIND, RUBY AND RAIN GRADUATE SHOW

NZ Fashion Tech, Otago Polytechnic, Massey University Runway 3.00 - 4.00PM

ACCESSORIES SHOWCASE

AUG

9.30AM

MINA

Offsite

11.00 - 12.00PM

FASHIONZ PRESENTS

Diversity Conversation: What can fashion do to be inclusive?

Concert Chamber 12.30PM

RESENE DESIGNER RUNWAY

Runway

2.00PM Contemporary Collective

HAVILAH, STARVING ARTISTS FUND

Concert Chamber 3.00PM

AHO

Jeanine Clarkin & Tāwhiao Offsite 4.00PM

Collections

Wicken, Good&Co, Hattitude, Vash, Pēke Concert Chamber

Concert Chamber

4.00PM

Concert Chamber

5.00PM

Offsite

5.00PM

Offsite

5.30PM Contemporary Salon

Runway

IVORY AND STONE BRIDAL, MALLO JOCKEY

6.00PM

HAILWOOD

Runway 7.30PM

SALASAI

Online

8.30PM

MERCEDES-BENZ PRESENTS

Paris Georgia Runway

JULIETTE HOGAN

CAMPBELL LUKE

Concert Chamber 6.30PM

KATHRYN WILSON

Runway 7.30PM

SALASAI

Online

CECILIA KANG COUTURE, FACE ME MAKEUP MIROMODA

7.30PM

SALASAI

Online

7.30PM

NOT FOR YOU

Runway 8.30PM

ZAMBESI

Offsite

8.30PM

STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB

Offsite

8.30PM

FOLLOW US ON   FOR ALL THE ACTION FROM THE RUNWAY.

RESENE DESIGNER RUNWAY

Private Show Runway

NZFASHIONWEEK.COM

MAJOR REBRAND AND RELOCATION

EXPANSION INTO BRIDAL Expanding on her already wellestablished portfolio of apparel and accessories, Karen walker has moved into bespoke bridal. All made by private appointment, the Atelier dress selection is based largely on the Karen Walker archive. From traditional to daring, the selection of 12 dresses play with length, volume, and silhouettes.

The addition of bridal to the brand was inspired by Walker’s own marriage of 28 years. “It’s a tradition that makes people pin their colours to the mast and take on true commitment,” Walker explained. All appointments will be in the Karen Walker Atelier suite above the Ponsonby Road boutique in Auckland. For more information email atelier@karenwalker.com

6 I August 2019

A PURFECT DUO The lovable iconic character has joined forces with local label RUBY to create a new capsule collection.

RUBY’s creative director, Deanna Didovich, believes that the best things in life are better in twos. “This collection with Sanrio has been so exciting. Growing up I collected anything Hello Kitty,” said Didovich.

“There’s no doubt RUBY x Hello Kitty will be one to remember.” Combining RUBY’s street-wear silhouettes with Hello Kitty’s retro origin, the result is an upbeat, undiluted, vibrant collection. “RUBY is a perfect fit for Hello Kitty, another great connection to Hello Kitty’s global network of friends,” said Alastair McHarrie, Sanrio’s licensing director. Made from ECONYL® fibre, 100 percent regenerated nylon from recovered fishnets and nylon waste, which helps reduce the global warming impact of nylon by up to 80 percent. This undeniably cool collaboration can’t go wrong.

Whitecliffe College has announced its plans for the future of the tertiary organisation, including an education merger with New Zealand Fashion Tech and Computer Power Plus.

All three brands now sit under the Whitecliffe brand and are owned

by Asia Pacific Education Group (APEDU).

Pulling together over 130 years of quality teaching experience, Whitecliffe is now the largest fashion school in New Zealand. The relocation includes Auckland, Manukau, Wellington and Christchurch, which are all well underway. Head offices and Auckland campuses can be found at 67 Symonds Street before the end of 2019.

Darryn Melrose, CEO of Whitecliffe College, was the driving force behind the rebrand and wanted to reflect the school’s new vision of being globally recognised for developing students as critical and creative thinkers. “Our vision is ambitious and is not contained within the boundaries of New Zealand,” Melrose said. “What many employers across a range of sectors are telling us is that they want the graduates they hire to be more creative. Our strength is in shaping and stimulating the creative abilities of students and we look forward to a future where we can deliver to a wider range of employers than today.”

meet the buyer

The Vault SARAH SOLARIS

In 1991, when Sarah Solaris started The Vault, she had nothing. Following her nose and aesthetic, her boutique now offers a predominantly New Zealand made hybrid experience combining a gallery and store.

The Vault is driven by Solaris’ idea of what stands out. “Unique, beautifully crafted, with a strong sense of either New Zealand identity, or is artistic or edgy.” While there are no specific trends or seasons that The Vault adheres to, Solaris explained that she is excited to be able to stock Scribbler Raincoats and the new Jill Main range of jewellery and merino.

Solaris noted that sustainability is an influencing factor for The Vault. “We are very motivated to make a change in consumer, and supplier and artist habits. We try to use only biodegradable packaging and ask our suppliers to do the same. Awareness has

definitely grown, and change is all around now.” Additionally, Solaris said that throughout her time in the industry, the New Zealand made aspect has become increasingly popular.

“I think surviving in these times is an awesome and laudable goal,” added Solaris. “Firstly, because

the rent and staff costs are high and turnover down and also because I don’t believe in the highly unsustainable mantra of ever-increasing growth.”

For more information, email sarah@thevaultnz.com or visit www.thevaultnz.com.

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meet the buyer

The Shelter

The Shelter is a curated designer space in Auckland’s suave area of Ponsonby. The Shelter sells established and recognised international brands as well as showcasing emerging talent.

“We like to harmonise and balance artistic expressions with commercial realism while nurturing and supporting our next generation of designers,” said Vicki Taylor, The Shelter’s founder. “We forge connections and relationships with our creators, and we like to challenge preconceptions of what a retail space is and transform it into a space where art and shopping can co-exist.”

The Shelter provides a space from which designers and artists alike can show their personality. “To be part of The Shelter, you must have your own clear identity; we do not want brands to overlap.” Developing this unique style or voice is something that Taylor noted as crucial for emerging designers. “Within our space, the creators get to show collections in the way they want it to show.

We allow them to be unique, creative and extend their collections beyond the racks that hold the garments.” The Shelter brings something to the table for everyone—a testimony to the uniquity of its items and artistic range. “We like to incubate creative thinkers and bring their visions into reality.” But The Shelter doesn’t only provide a platform to perform from, they nurture and support designers, and allow them to tap into the extensive community that The Shelter has.

What does Taylor look for when browsing designers? “A clear vision and the ability to deliver on that vision. Quality, manufacture and fabrications are always paramount as the brands need to sit beside well-established international brands. We are looking for amazing projects and an exciting energy and the ability to build, co-exist and flourish within our Shelter community.” However, as Taylor explained, there is more to it than just the look. “Think through the whole process, do not only present me with just a range—I want to know your manufacturing ethics, delivery schedules, how your market is identified, how you want to talk to your end consumer and ensure your quality and business ethics are sitting strongly in line with your vision.” while design is essential, the devil can be in the details. Taylor said that simple things like remembering to put contact details and brand name in emails could make a world of difference.

“We want our designers and their brands to be consistent with their vision and make pieces that build and enhance their end consumers lives each season. Trends are for the high street market, not a Shelter client.” The Shelter is always evolving, mentioned Taylor, and it’s always a space to watch for the latest in design.

10 I August 2019

editor ’ s pick

Emerging designers you need to know SHOWCASING SUSTAINABILITY

BIANCA LIM-YIP

Whitecliffe

YUEXUE WANG

Whitecliffe

12 I August 2019

This year, Whitecliffe is taking New Zealand Fashion Week by storm. The Sustainability Show during the New Zealand Fashion Weekend will showcase two current students, and two alumni.

Bianca Lim-Yip and Tom Munday, both fourthyear Fashion and Sustainability Students, and Olivia Lewis (Harriet) and Yuexue Wang, alumni, hitting the runway with five looks each.

The Sustainability Show looks to promote designers who have ingrained the concept of sustainability throughout their design practices.

This is represented in anything from upcycling, natural dyes, fabric manipulation, minimal waste, and ethical value chains. The idea of sustainability is multi-faceted, and each of these designers utilise sustainable practices in some or many ways.

Additionally, these designers can be found in the Future of Fashion Sustainability Exhibition, which is also taking place throughout New Zealand Fashion Week.

“The Whitecliffe BFA Fashion and Sustainability programme has a strong focus on ethical and sustainable practices, and throughout their four years of study students are encouraged to become innovators with a personal vision while developing sustainable design thinking and practices, including high standards of industry methodologies,” said Belinda Watt, Whitecliffe’s head of department of fashion and sustainability.

“They are encouraged to produce highly crafted designs addressing contemporary concerns within the industry and to become innovators and specialists in a sustainable fashion industry.”

Whitecliffe graduates are known to think creatively, take risks, and have a high level of industry-standard technical skills. Whitecliffe fosters innovation and allows students to create a personal vision to build upon and grow these emerging designers into industry-respected professionals throughout the fashion industry.

OLIVIA LEWIS

Whitecliffe

TOM MUNDAY

Whitecliffe

MONICA TORETTO

Southern Institute of Technology Professional sport photographer turned designer, Monica Toretto said Southern Institute of Technology (SIT) enabled her to follow her long time passion for design. “I finally took the plunge about four years ago and absolutely love it,” Toretto added. “I feel very fortunate I can combine what I love doing; photography and fashion.” At SIT, Toretto was able to unleash and nurture her creativity. She learned to work through all her ideas, accepting the fact that she possibly can’t use every idea or that they all won’t turn into successful designs, but to write them down anyway. “From my tutors, I learned to trust my instincts and to let creativity go wild and to be as ‘out there’ as I need to go and work with it.” Overall, Toretto felt everything she learned was valuable and important because she came with a clean slate, not knowing how to sew or design.

Growing up, Toretto’s taste in clothing was different to what was trendy at the time and this forced her to think outside the box even when she was much younger. Back then, she liked what she liked whether it was popular or not. Her start in fashion was hand painting a plain t-shirt and a couple of vintage pieces.

“Then I figured I should learn how to do the whole process from start to finish because it was still difficult to find garments that I truly liked,” she explained. “I had a rather selfish reason to start studying fashion, but it turned into wanting to share unique pieces with everyone.”

Her graduate collection included eight looks, two more than the required amount, as well as a few more than weren’t included in the final collection.

A highlight for Toretto was working on a cohesive collection instead of individual pieces as she did in previous years. Followed by seeing the garments all together coming down the runway at the graduate show. “It was an amazing experience.” Toretto’s collection was designed as a set of characters, each with their own inspiration but all with the common theme of personal growth and not being who they seem. Thoroughly enjoying design and construction, Toretto makes both commercial and costuming pieces and believes alternating between the two allows her to keep her mind fresh. In her opinion, sewing is an art-form and because Toretto can sew and design, she believes she has the freedom to go in any direction. “I can go crazy with show pieces, and be more restrained with the pieces I sell.” Her favourite creation was The Baroness’ costume for the Invercargill Musical Theatre’s production of Chitty Chitty Bang Bang. “I always end up working with satin, or anything shiny really,” she

added. “I love that I was asked to design something a little over the top, it looked fantastic on stage too.”

Heavily influenced by history and nature, Toretto likes to take certain elements from history and put a modern twist on it. “I am fascinated by history from the mid-1400s to 1600. Not just in dress, but also the architecture and art.”

Toretto’s biggest challenge moving deeper into the industry is being in Southland. “I’d assume those who enjoy wearing my design may not necessarily just be living in Southland, I’d probably rely more heavily on online shopping and have to travel a little further to attend events and shows.” She isn’t worried too much about travelling as it allows her yet another opportunity to meet new and exciting people in the industry.

Designing timeless and unique pieces is her biggest opportunity and would love to showcase her work down the runway on a bigger stage in a larger city.

Citing her graduate show as an unbelievable experience, she can’t imagine how it would feel to do a show on an even bigger stage.

Despite her location, Toretto is utilising e-commerce to showcase her work. Currently working on her Spring/Summer line as well as several pieces for an upcoming show, Toretto is looking to more stockists further afield. In the near future, Toretto would like to look at relocation her studio somewhere more central where she can have customers come in and try on her designs.

For more information, visit www.monicatoretto.co.nz.

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radar

New Zealand Made

NOT FOR YOU

Predominantly known for its streetwear, Wellingtonbased brand NOT FOR YOU has launched a womenswear collection after high demand. The introduction of womenswear to the brand started after showcasing in China fashion week in January this year. “We were always wanting to create womenswear pieces however the demand was greater than we had expected,” said designer Jerome Taylor. “We were constantly getting messages asking when and if it was coming, so we decided to launch a few pieces and it has been received so well, we are super excited to create even more pieces in the future.”

Since inception, the label has been in over ten shows both national and international. NOT FOR YOU has a solo show at New Zealand Fashion Week which will showcase over 100 unique pieces all made in New Zealand. More hand painting and hand-dyed garments can be expected in their showcase. “Hand painting and dyeing garments adds more depth to the pieces.”

The collection is titled ‘5 Year Plan’ which encapsulates exactly what the collection is about. Five years ago, Taylor wrote down 50 goals which he wanted to achieve in the next ten years, and he reviews these goals every year and at the start of this year he realised he had achieved more than he could have imagined. “I want to celebrate this and show people that you can achieve anything you put your mind to.”

NOT FOR YOU opened its doors to its first flagship store which can be found on 34 Manners Street, Wellington. During fashion week, the label is also opening a pop up shop in St Kevin’s Arcade from August 26th.

STUDY FASHION @ SIT ENROL NOW FOR 2020! ª Graduate Diploma in Fashion (Design & Technology) Call today or email info@sit.ac.nz 0800 4 0 FEES www.sit.ac.nz

14 I August 2019

Woolyarns Uniquely New Zealand made, Kaamera is a luxury yarn crafted from rare Bactrian camel fibre from Inner Mongolia and China combined with Woolyarns years of experience, expertise and specialty technology. Harvested by hand from the camels during moulting season, the Kaamera fibre is then dehaired leaving a luxurious downy undercoat. Similar to cashmere and brushtail possum down, this downy undercoat fibre is exceptionally fine and are available in a deep brown hue and a natural shade of ivory.

Woolyarns creates unique luxury yarns that allow designers to create products of exceptional beauty and leave a lasting impression.

For more information please visit www.woolyarns.co.nz/kaamera

BW 36.174 BW 36.174 geographically maps the longitude and latitude of Auckland New Zealand, where each garment is created by hand. Since establishing his label, Blair Wheeler has worked to push the boundaries of design through the use of unconventional materials, and methods.

Investing in a garment from Wheeler is so much more than just a transaction.

When a client chooses a BW 36.174 design, they are also engaging in a personalised experience, and an ongoing relationship.

This means that all of the designs at BW 36.174 are fully customisable to each client, and their needs. Intelligently crafted designs together with clean, and crisp lines mean that the natural curves of the body can be accentuated, and defined.

These components allow for Wheeler’s collections to be modern, and sophisticated. As each garment is constructed for one specific client, alternations in size can be made at any point in the process to ensure that each piece is sized perfectly.

This also means that no fabric is wasted, as each item is made to measure. Wheeler’s collection of fabric samples allows for the client to change components of their garment to ensure that it meets their exact specifications.

Since the debut of BW 36.174 in 2016 with a menswear collection, Wheeler has now expanded his designs to include custom womenswear. These new pieces remain true to the ethos of BW 36.174, and continue to challenge the traditional expectations of fashion. The new range of tailor-made womenswear fuses together contemporary, and innovative designs while giving a nod to classic corporate attire.

Each experience at BW 36.174 is customisable, just like your garment.

BW 36.174 is a space in central Auckland where clients can explore the collection with the guidance of Wheeler. The hybrid salon-studio allows for each client to try on their custom designs in a relaxed lounge environment, and even enjoy a drink.

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colour Party

EMILY VERHAAREN Resene Kryptonite

THAYLIA CROZIER-EVANS Resene Jailbreak

MATUA WILLIAMS Resene Just Dance SHANNON OWEN Resene Submerge JOEANE PASI Resene Twisted Sister

16 I August 2019

ISABELLA SPENCER-OWEN Resene Valour

ganovich and Taylor explored the idea of anxieties “from society, from being a woman, for loving other designers,” and that to reach your own thing, you have to go through them. This collection was heavily inspired by The Anxiety of Influence: A Theory of Poetry, the 1973 book by literary critic Harold Bloom. All of the garments graced the runway with an I and A-line silhouette, the duo designers found the fine balance between simplicity and complexity of the design, they did this through clean tailoring and creative fabric manipulations. This look fme to Paule Ka for its simple evening wear. “The idea of the collection was a woman going down to the South of France,” Simoens said. This is communicated through the use of colour, print and the fabrics used. The ensemble featured is a two-piece suit, the blazer is cropped paired with a Capri trouser in a hue like Resene Moby.

BRAIDEN REILLE Resene Pink Ribbon

resh paint on the runway at New Zealand Fashion Week.

Picture a walk on the wild side of 1960s fashion in Resene Wild Thing; a hood morphing into a cape in Resene Code Red; a Frida Kahlo-inspired androgynous shirt and tie in Resene Harmony; a nod to Nina Garcia’s call for fashion versatility in Resene Fast Forward; and a hipster jumpsuit capturing the rebellion of a middle child in Resene FOMO. In the six years since the Resene NZ Fashion Tech Colour of Fashion project began, over 75 fashion students have been launched into the business of fashion. It’s a project where Resene collaborates with NZ Fashion Tech giving

MICHAEL BARLOW Resene Moana

SHAGUFTA ZAIRA BIBI Resene I Dare You

undergrads in their final year of study at campuses in Auckland and Wellington a chance to be part of a professional fashion shoot, direct their own portfolio images from behind the camera and feature in a Resene online gallery.

The 2019 line-up of talent that faced the judges in June saw 39 extraordinary works of silk worn by models in this season’s palette of fashion colours from Resene.

Crafted and nuanced by the students into contemporary fashion looks, intricate design rationales, bold creative expression and technical precision, the garments were put through their paces at the judging.

JOSEPHINE WILLIAMS Resene Harmony

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beauty spot

Yes Organics Preeti Narayan spent two years researching, developing and trialling before she launched Yes Organics and her first range of products went online in 2018.

After using an array of lip balms over the years, Narayan found that none really worked well or excited her. "We wanted to create a premium lip balm range that was based entirely on natural, carefully selected and high-performing ingredients. They work really well to heal and soothe, and people love using them."

The 100 percent natural range is organic, cruelty-free, GE-free and crafted from premium ingredients that are ethically and sustainably sourced. "A lot of thought, research, love and care has gone into each of them."

Overall, Yes Organics' range of 11 lip balms and

one lip oil (for cold sores) are crafted to be holistic; combining the best of ingredients resulting in a product that is effective, healing, and nourishing.

Each lip balm is packed with vitamins and essential fatty acids as well as regenerating, anti-ageing and antioxidant rich oils and butters. You won't find any fillers or nasties in Yes Organics products, each ingredient has a purpose to create a tube of goodness that works. The multi-award-winning brand has taken home ten international awards for its various lip balms this year alone and were shortlisted for their 11th award against big international and local brands.

This New Zealand brand is currently available online and their range is in the process of stocking with top retailers in New Zealand.

For more information or to become a stockist, email yes@yesorganics.org or visit www.yesorganics.nz.

Raw Nature

SoSimple Made in New Zealand, SoSimple is 100 percent natural. All of their products are lovingly developed, processed, and packaged in their Auckland-based workshop. Discover fresh, natural, waterless products with SoSimple and enjoy beautiful skin. Usual skincare products consist of up to 80 percent water, leaving little room for active and potent ingredients. SoSimple is an alternative company on a mission to change up the norm. "Our products are thoughtfully formulated, and packed full of the highest possible concentrate of Bio-Active nutrients to transform your skin," explained founder Zoe Sokolov. SoSimple gives you the skin you deserve. Inspired by grandma's beauty recipes, ancient traditions and the Kiwi outdoor lifestyle; SoSimple's products are clean, locally sourced and completely waterless.

"We have a growing range of skincare products to improve your complexion, plump skin, reduce ageing and prevent breakouts," added Sokolov. "You’re just a couple of drops away from soft and nourished skin."

Buy natural, buy New Zealand made. To become a stockist or for more information, visit www.sosimpleskincare.co.nz or email info@sosimpleskincare.co.nz.

If you love natural skincare made in locally, don’t miss out on this special offer.

Get 15% OFF your first order with CODE: NZFW

18 I August 2019

Two years ago Nicky Jagger launched Raw Nature and has rapidly gained traction in the local market. Now expanding into Australia, Jagger said it all started after many years of making skincare products for herself and her young daughters. Jagger saw a gap in the market for effective natural body products that actually worked, but were also environmentally friendly. “Being a plastic friendly company is really important to us and we donate to New Zealand Sustainable Coastlines Charity as well.” Raw Nature does not compromise on the quality of their simple yet effective natural and organic ingredients. In fact all of their ingredients can be pronounced and in most cases even eaten. Since inception, Jagger has done everything from formulating and testing to packaging design and photography. Raw Nature's fresh approach to body care with natural and organic ingredients boast a strong range of over 20 different products including; deodorant sticks, dry shampoo powder, lip balm sticks, hair balm sticks, lotion sticks, bug repellent sticks and even a dog balm stick. Family and friends jump onboard whenever Jagger needs a hand to create her bold, bright and wonderful products. One of Raw Nature's top sellers is their Dessert Island Deodorant which comes in bright plastic-free guilt-free packaging. Lovingly made in New Zealand, Jagger was the first to use cardboard packaging.

Stocked online and with several retailers in New Zealand, Jagger is always developing new products that are good for not only her customers, but the planet too. "We have some exciting products planned in the coming months. Watch this space."

For more information email hello@rawnaturenz.com or visit www.rawnaturenz.com.

Dermalogica Introducing Phyto-Nature Firming Serum, Dermalogica’s latest ground-breaking dual-phase serum. This AGE Smart product’s separately housed oil-water solution consists of both a lifting serum and a firming serum that work in two stages, reawakening younger-looking skin to reduce the appearance of premature skin ageing.

“For the first time ever, Dermalogica is harnessing biomimicry, a scientific approach that mimics nature to solve complex human challenges,” explained Caroline Parker, Head of Education for Dermalogica New Zealand. “The PhytoNature Firming Serum contains a firming phase powered by Sapphirebound biomimetic peptides, which help firm skin and reinforce skin defences against your exposome, and a lifting phase powered by modern plant-based technology and ancient botanical wisdom.”

The lifting serum is powered by some of the

world’s most potent antioxidants. Extracts from the Amazonian Camu Camu, sustainably sourced from Peru, helps to prolong radiance. Often called the “youth berry”, the superfruit contains 60 times more Vitamin C than an orange, and has been wild-harvested by indigenous tribes for more than 700 years. Moroccan Rockrose Extract helps neutralise damaging free radicals, whilst caffeic acid from Madagascar Green Coffee Beans contains phyto-actives that work with the skin’s microbiome, helping to revitalise skin and decrease the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Available in a 40ml dualchamber bottle, the serum works instantly and over time to firm, lift, and revitalise the look of prematurely-aging skin. In clinical studies, the Phyto-Nature Firming Serum reduced skin’s visible age by five years, decreased the appearance of fine lines after just one application, doubled skin’s luminosity after just one application, and reduced visible wrinkles after four weeks.

For more information, visit www.dermalogica.co.nz.

8+Minute Skincare When it comes to skin treatment, 8+Minute Skincare understands that beautiful skin and true radiance can only come from healthy dermal cells. Harnessing the power of nature, 8+Minute Skincare mixes nourishing ingredients with the latest technology to maximise skin’s natural strength. Did you know that dehydration causes 95 percent of skin problems?

8+Minute Skincare specifically chose hydrating facial masks as their first two products to solve this problem.

Blending natural, safe ingredients with the latest frontier technology, 8+Minute Skincare is committed to applying their scientific break-throughs and advancements to their products.

Assuring top quality, their products contain a unique ID code that verifies the product is genuine.

Independent testing and product inspection of their facial masks has met the ecological standard for ISO 17050-1 Certification by OEKO-TEX®.

Their advanced formula uses hyaluronic acid which is a natural substance in skin that has the capacity to

attract and hold cast amounts of moisture. When skin is sufficiently hydrated, lines, and wrinkles appear diminished. Leaving behind, younger, healthy looking skin. Research also suggests that hyaluronic acid has antioxidant properties, which acts as a shield against free radicals from pollution and other aggressors.

8+Minute Skincare’s range features their Replenishing Hydration Mask, the Luminous Whitening Mask, a Goat Milk Rejuvenating Mask, the Ginseng Shampoo Anti-Dandruff, and their latest addition – the 8+Minute SYN-AKE Restoring Eye Mask. The SYN-AKE Restoring Eye Mask uses revolutionary sheet material which maximises the active ingredients in the serum. This patented biotechnology combines the antioxidants with natural fibres, Chitin and Vitamin C, much more than an ordinary cotton sheet found in other masks.

For more information or to become a stockist, email info@jemarose.co.nz or visit www.jemarose.co.nz.

Plant and Share

Formally trained as a Landscape Architect, Sharyn Ogg launched natural beauty brand Plant and Share after completing her Herbal Apprenticeship at Phytofarm. “It opened my eyes to the beauty and abundance that is all around us in nature and the name, Plant and Share, was sparked from this.” Ogg has been working with plants since 1998, she covers all the hands-on day-to-day roles from growing the herbs to manufacturing, to distribution and everything in between. “Plant and Share was a natural career progression, given my passion to create simple and fresh skincare products from the garden to nurture and care for family.”

Organically grown herbal oil infusions form the basis of this carefully handcrafted skincare range. Plant and Share has grown alongside her five-year-old son, and now also her ten month old, in the quest to find a safe, simple and effective skincare using organically grown and spray-free ingredients.

Plant and Share’s range showcases 34 types of products, but it all started with their popular Calendula Balm which is simple, effective, and remains a great choice for any skin ailments.

Today, Pick-N-Mix is her best-seller; a practical gift that is ideal for new mums, bubs, and birthday presents. It is a popular way to try three smaller products before purchasing the regular size. Customers can select three sample sized products from a range of 17, they also receive a free hand-stamped cotton bag.

Primarily a family-based business, Ogg is grateful for her partner, mother and in-laws for their ongoing support. “I am blessed to have a highly talented apprentice helping me too.

Predominantly stocked in the South Island, Plant and Share are currently responding to growing interest from stockists in the North Island. “The word is spreading!” The team are embarking on their next steps, including running workshops on simple and effective personal herbal skincare. They are also collaborating with other talented locals to offer Plant and Share Pamper Afternoons; where they host reflexology, clairvoyant readings, skincare applications and demonstrations on making simple plant-based smoothies and food.

For more information or to become a stockist, email info@plantandshare.co.nz or visit www.plantandshare.co.nz.

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I 19

meet the buyer

Contain Boutique KARAN GREGORY

Whangamata-based Contain Boutique is run by Karan Gregory, who prior to starting the business had no previous experience with buying or retail. Locally, Contain is the only boutique shop of its kind — a unique point of difference that Gregory utilises.

“Our target market is female, and we aim to cover a broad age range from teens to more mature clientele,” explained Gregory. “I have quite a pared-back style, but if a pattern of bright colour excited me when I view ranges, they make it to the shop floor.” On top of hot product and a range of options, Gregory cited a love of quality fabrics and how they are made. “My ultimate goal is for a customer of any age and any budget to be able to walk into Contain and find something for them.”

Gregory’s boutique approach is something that she believes adds to the shopping experience. “I don’t think you can beat personal service and products showcased in a small environment. We know our customers, we know what service they like, we know what shapes work for them.” Contain Boutique has been open seven years now, and Gregory said that when she is buying if she can’t imagine one of her customers in a piece, she won’t buy it.

Gregory looks at pieces for their quality, the achievability of the RRP, the versatility of the brand, and its use of shapes. She said that she is always on the look for great patterns and colours, and thinks that New Zealand is desperate to get out of the black ‘phase’. “Are the brands doing different things on my shop floor and offering my customer a good selection? I look for fashion that can stand the test of time. Fast fashion does not interest me.” Another interesting part of Gregory’s buying is her approach to fashion trends. Although she said she is not influenced easily by trends unless they are flattering and wearable, Gregory said that her husband helps weigh in on what is worth buying. “He’s a builder by trade, and he often gives a very unbiased opening that is not influenced by what’s in fashion.”

We asked Gregory what advice she would give to someone looking to be stocked. “Professionalism when approaching a store for the first time, be organised, have your look books ready to go so you can make a punch instantly. Back yourself and get great quality samples in front of the buyer.” Additionally, Gregory said it is essential to know the other brands that the store stocks, and how you can offer them something unique. “I love how some brands show me a good variety, but also enjoy the brands that have a singular essence.”

Over the years, Gregory said that sustainability has become increasingly important. On top of that, the state of the market has shifted since Contain Boutique’s inception. “When I first opened my doors, New Zealand had just been through a recession. Suppliers were taking no risks and were not carrying any spare stock throughout the season. It was really hard. What you indented for the season was all you had—all the risk was on the retailer. It was not uncommon to have to prepay for stock before you had a chance to sell it. Wholesalers have gained a bit more confidence now and are working with retailers and carrying some stock for us to top up on throughout the season.”

Looking ahead, Gregory believes that people are starting to pare things back and keep it classy. Although she has no plans to expand, she said that she wants to continue perfecting what’s on offer at Contain Boutique, and get to know her customers even better. “Making women look good is such a reward.”

20 I August 2019

nuts & bolts

Julia Leuchars

MARKETING & BRAND COMMUNICATION DIRECTOR, TRELISE COOPER CO-DESIGNER, COOPER COLLECTION Julia Leuchars grew up in Auckland with her family, both of her parents are very creative in their own ways which meant her brother and her were always imagining up wonderful games and adventures to go on. “Our parents instilled an entrepreneurial streak in both of us, so I was very busy growing up,” Leuchars explained. Now the marketing and brand communication director at Trelise Cooper and codesigner of the Cooper Collection, Leuchars has been with the company for just over three years. Fashion has always been a part of her life, with both parents very fashion forward and her grandfather on her mother’s side was a textile and linen importer and supplier.

Unsure of what she wanted to do, Leuchars walked away with her Bachelor of Arts degree majoring in Enlish and History from Auckland University. “I really love English and I’m totally fascinated by history, I wasn’t really sure what I wanted to do when I grew up, and my BA meant I could pursue a number of passions and learn a lot at the same time,” she said. Her first memory of fashion was sitting on the floor at Mary Toys fabric shop in Remuera picking out buttons while her mother endlessly looked at patterns and fabrics.

“My pocket money and savings always went towards buying that ‘can’t live without’ piece. Many of which were Trelise pieces that I would save up for weeks and months to get.” Liz and Mike Lind of La Cigale in Parnell introduced her to all things French during her first job. “Their beautiful aesthetic and eye for detail really nurtured my interest, and started my education in retailing and the wide and wonderful world of fashion as a business.”

Inspired by everything around her, Leuchars said people, places, smells, tastes and sounds can spark inspiration. She explained that we live in such an enveloping world there are so many incredible things happening around us all the time. “You just have to keep your eyes and ears open to it all, and it will come

at you from all angles.” Surrounded by passionate people, Leuchars is proud to call them her friends.

Her parents have also been an incredible and infallible source of inspiration and support. Trelise Cooper also inspired Leuchars long before she met and had the opportunity to work with her.

Since joining the team, Leuchars said working at Trelise Cooper has taught her to trust her gut and push for what she believes in. Whether it’s a design or a business decision or something in her personal life. “If you aren’t 100 percent committed, no one else will be,” Leuchars said. “Never rest your laurels, always strive to improve, innovate, and create something beautiful and new.” Previously she has worked for a range of New Zealand and Australian companies where she learned everything she could from leading ragtraders, both old and new. “I learnt so much about the business and the fashion industry as a whole and the energy and determination it takes to succeed in an industry that is constantly reinventing itself.”

The diversity of Leuchars’ role is what she loves most, she adores designing collections and working with the Cooper team on their latest and future collections. As well as hosting events and interacting with customers and partners which is incredibly fulfilling for Leuchars. Her routine is always different as she changes from week to week with a highly planned schedule that must also be flexible.

“I feel incredibly fortunate to work in an industry I love and have the opportunity to create,” she said.

“Always the focus is

Never rest your laurels, always strive to improve, innovate, and create something beautiful and new.

onwards and upwards.” There are many opportunities with the business that she hopes to be able to pursue with the team and continue to grow and learn.

Wearing and following the brand before she jumped onboard, Leuchars felt designing for Cooper was a match made in heaven, and has been allowed to bring her influence to the brand.

Being constantly surrounded by shiny and sparkly things keeps her love for fashion alive. “I’m part of a creative and visual feast everyday, and I work with a fantastically passionate team. Fashion isn’t an easy industry. You work long and hard; if you don’t love it, you don’t last long.” Leuchars added that Wearing something that makes you feel good, beautiful or strong is empowering and another reason why she loves working in the industry. “Oh and I have a shopping addiction… I think I work in the right place!”

meet the buyer

Muse Boutique REBE BURGESS Rebe Burgess has been at MUSE for five years, working closely alongside owner Olivia Vincent. Through Vincent, Burgess has learned about the ins and outs of buying, now regularly travelling to Paris and New York Fashion weeks where their brands show. “I absolutely adore buying for MUSE,” Burgess said. “Dream job.”

MUSE goes beyond clothing, Burgess explained.

“MUSE prides itself on service and the close relationships we have with our amazing clients.”

Not only this, but MUSE puts a great deal of effort into their showcases and the products that they stock. “Our wonderful merchandiser Kelsey is a magician, ensuring that our boutiques are always looking fresh and that each piece is showcased beautifully. As mentioned before, we have such strong relationships with our clients and can often give feedback straight from the customer to the designer who gives the designer great insight as to what is and isn’t working in store.”

MUSE handpicks collections, something that is designed to fit every type of customer. When looking at designers, MUSE follows quite a specific process.

“We tend to focus more on the range and individual garments rather than the designers themselves. Everyone has their off and peal seasons, and we adjust our buy accordingly.” Seasonally, MUSE tries to keep up with our northern hemisphere counterparts, something that Burgess said can be tricky sometimes. Having said that, Burgess said that MUSE leans towards timeless classics, as this is what she believes their clientele prioritise. “Our clients are very conscious consumers, so it’s important that we know as much as we can about what fabrics the designers are using, as well as where the product is made.”

Burgess suggested that designers looking to get stocked should focus on quality, consistency and finesse. MUSE, for instance, don’t like to limit their offerings, so there is always a spot for a piece that blends timeless classic with modern style. “The designers we stock continue to impress us season after season with their new and innovative designs and use of colour. We like to keep things interesting.” Although uniquity is important, so too, is sustainability. “Our clients have become more conscious around where the product is made and what practises the designers have in place around ethics, sustainability and reducing their impact on the environment. Often we will only bring on one of each size in some styles to ensure we do our part, too.”

Over the years, Burgess has noticed a change in the way that people are open to trying new things— something that designers are looking to meet, as well.

22 I August 2019

“I think that New Zealand, in general, has become less conservative in their sense of style, and that’s great.”

Looking ahead, Burgess believes that accessorising is something that she is looking forward to. “We have a couple of new accessory labels set to hit stores pre-summer—bags, footwear, hats, jewellery, eyewear.

I think layering chunky gold jewellery is going to be a favourite of mine. Also, I’m very excited about the arrival of one super chic black dress that has fringe

detailing in November.”

“We are always looking to expand,” explained Burgess. “We’ve recently opened our Ponsonby Boutique, and relaunched MUSE online. We are onto our fourth season of MUSE cashmere and are constantly updating our brand list and working with new designers. MUSE has grown so much in the five years I’ve been working here—so excited to see what the next five years bring.”

meet the buyer

Caughley RACHAEL CAUGHLEY

Nestled down Ghuznee Street in the thriving creative heart of Wellington’s Cuba Quarter, CAUGHLEY is an ever-changing hub of independent high-quality fashion, timeless accessories, exceptional shoes, and sought-after jewellery.

Founded in 2015 by Rachael Caughley, the store is home to carefully selected pieces from coveted international brands and emerging designers. “I have no buying background,” Rachael told Apparel. “I think the shop floor is where you learn how to be the best buyer.” After taking up a part-time job at Slick Willy’s in Dunedin during her studies, Rachael fell in love with sales and the front-facing end of the business. “I’ve now had CAUGHLEY for four years, and I’ve learnt so much just talking to my customers on the floor.”

CAUGHLEY is an exclusive stockist in Wellington for a number of premium designers, including Citizens of Humanity, Georgia Alice, and Wynn Hamlyn. Rachael brought Ganni to New Zealand for the first time three years ago, and is on the cusp of introducing Berlin’s Frisur and French brand Delikatessen to Kiwi shores. In a city of 400,000, Rachael has made sure she reaches as many consumers as possible. “I literally have 15-year-olds and 83-yearolds shopping with me. Great style is ageless.” Though currently a high-end boutique, Rachael is hoping to stock some lower price point brands in future, including Levi’s, Cecile Copenhagen, and Auguste.

“Our clothes are special, made from good quality fabrics with great designs, so they are not cheap. But if you look after them, you’ll never have to buy that piece again.”

Being located a smaller city allows Rachael to develop a closer relationship with her customers, many of whom are regulars. “It’s a much more curated

24 I August 2019

edit than a department store,” she explained. “You have an assistant helping you, someone that knows the brand, knows you, that has met the designer, and knows the story about the brand.” By looking at products both as a buyer and customer, Rachael is able to maintain an intimate connection to her clientele that in turn fosters good business. “If I post a good Instagram post, I will sell out of something that night.”

As a young business, Rachael has been able to imbue CAUGHLEY with a sustainability ethos right from the start. As a provider of high-end fashion, product longevity is key. “I have dropped a lot of brands over the last four years,” she said. “If I get anything faulty brought back to me, it’s a massive red flag.” Rachael brought out her own range of CAUGHLEY coats after struggling to find a 100 percent wool coat. “I’ve seen $1200 coats that have polyester in them. They will pill the following season and you’ll be wanting to buy another one – that’s not sustainable fashion.” By educating and engaging her customers about the history and traceability of their products, Rachael is able to encourage them to spend a bit extra to ensure they’re buying the real deal.

CAUGHLEY’s online presence has been central to the boutique’s journey. “Our online constantly surprises me,” said Rachael. “The amount of people coming to us online and via Instagram is fantastic.”

In future, she hopes to get off the shop floor more often and craft a website that is as high-end as her bricks and mortar store. “I want to post more journal

articles, more content online replicating what I love to do in store – give people confidence to wear clothes they feel amazing in.” But Rachael’s plans for expansion are moderate, and she is keen to avoid becoming a mass market store. “We want to be unique and special. But we are always aware of price point and making beautiful clothes accessible. What I love most about this business is its always changing and you never have it sorted, you are always learning.”

Looking ahead to the coming season, Rachael forecast a splash of colour and patterns, a trend she is hoping to capitalise on with her own branded clothing. “Sometimes I feel there is a bit of a discord between designers and what real women I talk to every day want to buy, so I want the CAUGHLEY brand to be able to cater women walking in off the street.” Alongside a rise in colour she predicted a corresponding decline in black. “But it will never die for me,” she joked. “Also, skinny jeans are on the way out. But it’s funny, because dealing with the general public, some customers would rather die before they get out of skinny jeans. So we will continue to stock them.”

Designers interested in joining CAUGHLEY’s portfolio should contact Rachael via email at hello@ caughley.com, though she suggested a more effective technique. “I get a lot of daily emails, so the most powerful thing you can do is front up in store with your clothing and force me to look at it.” www.caughley.com

Fast & Furious: Hobbs & Shaw Dwayne Johnson and Jason Statham lead this Fast & Furious spin-off, which sees the duo form an unlikely alliance. This bombastic action flick doesn’t take itself too seriously, so expect plenty of high stakes thrills as the musclebound duo chase down a genetically enhanced terrorist played by Idris Elba.

In one sequence, Johnson abseils one-handed down a skyscraper before leaping fifty feet onto a bad-guy and using a machine gun to take down said villain’s accomplice. It’s that kind of movie.

Idris Elba spends much of his time in fetchingly futuristic motorcycle leathers, whilst Johnson makes ample use of his sizeable and permanently on-show biceps by flexing them towards the camera at every opportunity. Statham is usually more modestly dressed, and does his best to look like an equal to ‘The Rock’ by making sarcastic quips and holding big guns. This is popcorn material, make no mistake – but it’s great stuff.

Ad Astra This ethereal sci-fi flick features Brad Pitt in space. But it gets juicier – everyone’s favourite square-jawed hunk is searching for his long-lost father, who disappeared on a journey to the edge of the solar system. In doing so, he unravels an ancient mystery that threatens the very survival of life on Earth.

Following in the footsteps of recent hard science fiction masterpieces like Gravity, The Martian, and First Man, Ad Astra is low on laser guns and jetpacks, opting to portray a more realistic representation of what space travel might look like in the near future. Expect plenty of gloomy silences and long stares into the abyss.

Downton Abbey The most successful British costume drama since Brideshead Revisited is coming to the big screen. Featuring a cast list as long as Hugh Bonneville’s tailcoat, the new movie tells the story of a mini-melt-down at Downton after it’s announced that the King and Queen will be coming to visit.

The original TV series received more Emmy nominations than any other show in history, including multiple wins and nominations for the costume department.

From ballgowns to double-breasted greatcoats, from fur-trimmed hats to flapper dresses, expect to be delighted and enthralled by the variety on show in this heartwarming period drama.

26 I August 2019

It: Chapter Two Everyone’s favourite demonic child-eating clown is back for a final showdown with the Losers Club, 27 years after the events of 2017’s It. Starring Jessica Chastain, James McAvoy, Bill Hader, Isaiah Mustafa, and Jay Ryan as the grown-up losers, old rivalries and romances are brought to the fore as the group confront their childhood nemesis Pennywise, played once again with chilling grace by Bill Skarsgård.

Oscar-nominated costume designer Luis Sequeira, who worked on The Shape of Water and Mama, has created a Pennywise that’s bigger and scarier than ever. A notable flashback sequence exploring the origins of the character provided Sequeira with a chance to explore a subtler, more human version of Pennywise, before he became the fully-fledged supernatural being that we all know and love.

Hustlers

Directed by Lorene Scafaria, Hustlers tells the story of a group of strippers as they lie, steal, and hustle dozens of wealthy men when the sex industry bottoms out during the late-2000s financial crisis.

Starring Constance Wu, Jennifer Lopez, and Cardi B, this comedic drama is a fun but troubling watch.

Being a movie about strippers, don’t be surprised when the costumes leave little to the imagination. Earlier in the year Cardi B caused quite the stir when she shared photos of some of her raunchier outfits. But outside of the club, taking centre stage in the wardrobe department is Lopez’s voluminous fur coat, which often takes up more of the frame than her impressive hairdo.

The Current War This historical drama experienced a massively delayed release in the wake of the Harvey Weinstein allegations, but it has finally seen the light of day almost two years after its intended release date.

The Current War stars Benedict Cumberbatch and Michael Shannon as Thomas Edison and George Westinghouse, as they battle it out to decide whose particular version of electric current – alternating or direct – will go down in history as the world’s power source of choice.

Seeing as this film is set in the nineteenth century, expect plenty of stuffy Victorian clothing and hairdos to boot. Tom Holland, who plays business magnate Samuel Insull, sports a particularly impressive set of sideburns. Though the subject matter might not be immediately riveting, The Current War tells an interesting and important story. It also features Cumberbatch playing a misunderstood erratic genius ahead of his time.

Who’d have thunk?

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 27

How fashion retailers are using Artificial Intelligence in 2019

edited

While robot retail assistants aren’t yet prolific (though they do exist), artificial intelligence is slowly infiltrating retail and is top of the agenda for many retail organizations.

Global spending on A.I. in retail is predicted to grow to $7.3 billion a year by 2022, up from $2bn in 2018 says Juniper Research.

And according to an IBM report, adoption of A.I. driven automation in the retail and consumer products industries is projected to leap to 80 percent in the next three years. The facts are there: A.I. is coming for us.

SO WHY A.I.? RETAIL COMPANIES ARE LOOKING TO A.I. TO INCREASE EFFICIENCY, AND IMPROVE CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE In this report we look at some examples of how smart retailers are introducing A.I. into their product lifecycle. Fast fashion retailer H&M uses A.I. to keep popular items well-stocked by analyzing receipts and returns to gauge which stores need what. And Zara’s self-service store checkouts highlight the strong focus on creating a better and smoother shopping experience in-store. Or take Amazon Go, the revolutionary store concept from the tech giants.

It is entirely cashier-less, letting customers take what they want from the shelves and walk out with it, scanning their ID and charging their Amazon account as they do. These are just three examples of how A.I. is streamlining processes, ultimately cutting costs, and improving the customer journey.

FASHION RETAIL: H&M’S IN-APP TAILORING SERVICE Trialed exclusively in Germany since January, H&M has partnered up with Berlin-based startup ZyseMe to offer customers tailor-made clothing from home. Integrated into the H&M app, customers can bypass extensive, in-house tailoring appointments by inputting a few key figures such as height, weight and shoe size.

Using historical data and algorithms, the in-app feature then predicts the customer’s measurements (with a 98 percent hit rate) and sends them to manufacturers where a men’s white shirt is made and delivered within

28 I August 2019

days. Seamless, huh? While H&M’s use of this kind of technology is still in its infancy, the use of A.I. for tailor-made fashion is sure to become widespread.

Not only does it prevent the number one reason for online returns – incorrect sizing – it also lets companies avoid high leftover stock levels and forced discounting. And your customers will thank you, too.

75 percent of consumers respond to personalization and bespoke experiences, according to research by Forrester Research.

Increasingly, AI is helping retailers understand their key markets and provides actionable data to ensure they can be absolutely confident in their product and pricing decisions. For many retailers, knowing what the next “It” bag or viral skirt is, wins the medal.

Knowing when to stock and pricing it right takes the trophy. These two goals have been entirely subjective, up until now, and acquiring data was costly, manual, slow, and resource heavy — not to mention data being incomplete and obsolete after a week or two.

With help from EDITED’s retail data platform, retailers can always have access to full market data at the touch of a button. Having access to real-time data helps retailers’ and brands trade faster as it lets them look at the entire global market; right down to colors, shapes and patterns. This ultimately helps them spot gaps in the market, without the added guesswork.

OPTIMIZING STOCK INVENTORY Using the EDITED platform, Scandinavian online retailer Nelly.com quickly turned around its own version of a skirt after noticing the style overselling at one of their competitors. The brand’s Nelly Skirt became a bestseller. Madeleine Munkhammar, Chief Sales Officer of Nelly.com said: “We ended up making back the entire value of EDITED’s contract from just one business decision. It really showed us the value of EDITED and why it’s important to have access to real-time market data.”

So, it’s a no brainer that A.I. is becoming a key driver in the retail industry, it’s changing the way we think, work and interact with data and technology.

Global spending on A.I. in retail is predicted to grow to $7.3 billion a year by 2022

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Peter Mitchell INTERNS

Janet Guan PUBLISHER Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com ADMIN/SUBSCRIPTIONS Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com ISSN 1171-2287 EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Suite 9, Level 3, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand CONTENT MANAGERS Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com +64 9 304 0142 EDITORIAL TEAM Ed Scott NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all

GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM

30 I August 2019

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enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2018 NZ Apparel Magazine.

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