Apparel Magazine // August 2015

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AUGUST 2015 I VOL 48 I NO 8

04 14 18 26

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FASHIONABLE

EDITOR’S letter IDENTIFYING YOUR CUSTOMER In today’s fast paced world brands and retailers have the ability to track consumer interactions on any device, from anywhere in the world. However it isn’t the easiest task for the industry to keep track of the information.

A recent study by Bain’s 2014 Global Luxury Study, over 50 percent of all luxury goods purchases takes place via offshore sites and another study report

by McKinsey showed nearly half of luxury goods purchased have been influenced by what consumers hear or see online.

“All the digital activity going on has created an avalanche of data out there,” said Maher Masri, partner and co-leader of McKinsey’s digital marketing practice.

“Purchase history, service interaction, website navigation behaviour and social media conversations are included in the data. The thing that companies are trying to do is identify customer signals to trigger a marketing activity.

“If you go to a retailer’s website, put something in the cart and don’t buy it, that’s a very simple signal. The retailer should be able to retarget the customer through various marketing tactics, either display, email or social to remind the customer to come back and buy it.”

It has been reported that brands and retailers who are acting on the abandoned carts have seen a lift in revenue, and although it is expensive and time consuming to have the strong customer management database it is feasible.

This month’s issue is packed with dedicated fashion industry news including our ‘old but new’ sections that we have bought back from the early days of the magazine ‘Footwear News’ and ‘Menswear News’.

Designers and brands participating in New Zealand Fashion Week have also given Apparel readers an exclusive sneak peek at the designs that will hit the runway this year.

Don’t forget to sign up to our weekly newsletter that will have all of the updates from this year’s New Zealand Fashion Week. You can find the link on our website www.apparelmagazine.co.nz.

Sarah

sarah@reviewmags.com

Monique McKenzie - monique@reviewmags.com Hannah Garner

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Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com

Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com

By David Downton The first monograph on renowned fashion illustrator David Downton. With a Foreword by Christian Lacroix, and an Afterword by Dita Von Teese, this book showcases around 150 of David’s drawings, featuring celebrities, actors, models, and fashion designers.

‘Daredevil’ paint by RESENE PHOTOGRAPHER: Caitlan Mitchell MODEL: Elise at 62 Models HAIR & MAKEUP: Clare Hendra ASSISTANT: James Watson

11% Macy’s sales are online, totaling US$3.1 billion per year.

Use of online voucher codes grew 43% in the last year.

PUBLISHER Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com MANAGING DIRECTOR Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com EDITOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Thomas Fowler - tommie@reviewmags.com

David Downton Portraits of the World’s Most Stylish Women

ON THE COVER:

the NUMBERS . . .

The menswear industry exceeds US$402 billion as at the start of 2015.

READS

In 2014, 33 percent of orders came from a mobile device rather than a computer.

SENIOR DESIGNER Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com PHOTOGRAPHER Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com ADMINISTRATOR MANAGER Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com ISSN 1171-2287

Oscar de la Renta: His Legendary World of Style

By Andre Leon Talley In this intimate volume, longtime editor and friend André Leon Talley recounts de la Renta’s journey through nearly 70 iconic dresses, mainly made for private clients, accompanied by fascinating stories of the exquisite craftsmanship and the legendary friends that brought each gown to life.

Diana Vreeland: The Modern Women: The Bazaar Years, 1936-1962

By Alexander Vreeland The first Vreeland book to focus on her three decades at Harper’s Bazaar, where the legendary editor honed her singular take on fashion.

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2015 NZ Apparel Magazine.

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news

STAR PANEL FOR BROTHER DESIGN

A star line up of experts will judge New Zealand’s top fashion and craft line up of judges in this year’s Brother Design Star’s youth talent search, including COOP designer Kayla Jurlina, and fashion designer Celine Chapman. “What we love about our panel is that they’re passionate, creative New Zealanders who we know young people look up to and admire,” said Emma Crossett, Brother marketing manager. “Your identity defines you as a person and is a way of expressing who you are through the art of dressing. Every morning you have a chance to express how you want to present yourself to the world, and a competition that highlights this is amazing,” said Jurlina from COOP who will judge the Brother Design Stars Fashion Award category.

COO RESIGNS FROM KATHMANDU

Mark Todd has announced his resignation from Kathmandu Holdings as chief operating officer and finance director. After joining the company in 1998, Todd has had many roles with the company as well as acting CEO throughout most of this financial year. Chief financial officer Reuben Casey will step in as Todd’s replacement. “Mark’s role was pivotal in the successful listing of Kathmandu in 2009, and his financial and retail acumen has been hugely valuable to the board over the past six years,” said David Kirk, Kathmandu’s chairman. “I had contracted to stay with Kathmandu in my current role until July next year but now with Xavier [Simonet, Kathmandu’s new CEO] on board I feel it is the right time to step aside entirely,” said Todd.

“I thank my fellow directors and executives for their support in the past year in particular and I’m very confident in the board and our new leadership team’s ability to deliver our FY2016 forecast result.”

UBER FOR MODELS

New app, from entrepreneur Peter Fitzpatrick, Swipecast connects models with clients in a new approach to networking and booking. “Your typical model works one to two days per week,” Fitzpatrick explains. “Agents have favourites and certain girls fall through the cracks. Wouldn’t it be great if there was a way for a model to network and access opportunities in real time, in a safe environment?” The Swipecast app has just launched for Apple iPhone that employs a marketplace model similar to Uber for the modeling industry, allowing photographers, designers, stylists and brands to book models directly.

Traditional modeling agencies charge commission and clients can take up to 90 days to pay, with the Swipecast app, 90 percent of the total fee for a job is paid with a low 10 percent commission, processing the payment in one to two days.

Models and clients are vetted and verified and a rating system similar to Uber has been included. Vetted clients can browse models via the app and even filter candidates from hair colour to place of residence. Development is under way to entice additional users by offering credits to independent magazines and emerging designers.

Plan your visit and view the show magazine online.

Register to attend for free.

www.giftfairs.co.nz 30 Aug - 1 Sept 2015 ASB Showgrounds, Auckland

TRA ON DE LY

• New York​Catwalk with Jessica Minh Anh • NZ Fashion Week • Vancouver Fashion Week ​www.francesjerard.co.nz

4 I August 2015

news

WELTEC AT ECO FASHION WEEK

Select students from Weltec’s Fashion Makeup Artistry programme were involved in Eco Fashion Week, New Zealand’s only eco fashion designer runway event that showcased sustainable, ethical and cutting edge fashion, from New Zealand and abroad. Make-up artists used only eco friendly products and did a fantastic job backstage. At the end of the course, students participated in an editorial photo shoot, where the top 11 students work was shown to and critiqued by international professionals who are respected globally in the industry.

GLASSONS PARTNER WITH YOUNG DESIGNERS

Fashion retail giant Glassons has given Otago Polytechnic fashion design students a valuable nudge to the next level. The partnership objective, where students submit their designs to gain commercial feedback from industry experts, is a gateway for emerging Kiwi designers to get their voice heard on the local fashion stage. “The level of design and commitment at Otago Polytechnic is extremely refreshing,” said general manager of Glassons Sebastian Cole. “It gives me great hope for the future of New Zealand fashion.” Participating students presented their designs to be critiqued by Cole and Glassons design manager Kiriana Pettersen. The duo was so impressed by the level of work that they awarded two one-month internships with Glassons. Kenya Quin was awarded an internship with the retail giant for her fashionable yet commercially transferable aesthetic alongside fellow student Sophie Ball’s impressive theme and infectious personality.

FASHION CHAIN TO CLOSE

Jean Jones and Platform have sited poor trading conditions over the past summer and winter seasons as to the reason behind shutting its doors. Gina and Keri Condon purchased Jean Jones out of receivership in 2010 but appointed liquidators this month after the Gisborne store closed among several others. With only six of 22 stores currently in operation, it is understood the owners owe approximately $1.8 million. Some Jean Jones stores will continue to operate while sale options are assessed. Auckland-based liquidator Chapman-Atkins has been mandated to sell the company.

“Nobody can take your message to the streets of New Zealand in a more powerful way” Otis & Sarah Frizzell – The Lucky Taco

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THREE SIXTY EXECUTES PORTABLE BAR

DISCOVERING A PERSONAL PRINT PERSONALITY

Premier textile printer, Auckland Fabric Printers (AFP), has appointed Petra Taylor as its new sales representative. An experienced textile engineer, Taylor was a senior staff member at Inter-Weave before taking time off to raise a family.

Taylor is very familiar with the technical aspects of textiles and with all aspects of Auckland Fabric Printers’ operation. Now working for AFP she is able to give plenty of technical support and advice to customers including Sophia Moon, a designer for Thunderpants. The cool little company that can be described as ‘a stroke of genius’ produces New Zealand made clothing from one hundred per cent organic cotton.

Taylor and the Thunderpants team are currently planning new innovative prints to create more organic Thunderpants magic. Having worked closely with textile designers in the past, Taylor loves creative aesthetic designs.

Over the last decade, a dramatic boom in interactive marketing has redefined the NZ marketing atmosphere. Truly innovative creative solutions help bring consumer and product closer than ever, imprinting a long lasting emotional effect based on interacting. The idea is to increase brand awareness in a fashion that is subtle and creative whilst effectively communicating brand information. One of New Zealand’s leading creative design and manufacturing companies, Three Sixty Limited, is proving itself a frontrunner in executing seamless, snappy and quality products. With 15 years of experience, the team at Three Sixty is equipped to bring dreams to life, with facilities for printing, plastic, metal and woodwork. “Ten years ago the option of marketing interactively barely existed, and today, at more than 20%, it’s almost the largest area that corporates are spending their annual marketing budgets on,” said a Three Sixty spokesperson.

Most recently is the creative execution of Bundaburg’s portable bar.

Transported in two shipping containers that double as eye catching moving billboards, the containers open out into two fully operational bars with a private tasting room, open seating areas and a historic walk through of the brand. The overall effect is a carefully branded interactive advertisement that serves as a function falling in line with the brand identity. For more information on experiential marketing or other creative solutions, contact Three Sixty Limited on 09 415 0870 or visit www.threesixty.co.nz.

ROSE COAT LABELS TO VICTORIA MAXWELL

TM

P U R F O R M M A N N E Q U I N S

purform.net

6 I August 2015

Established in 1989, Victoria Maxwell is a family business with labels sold by Max Webb, office and logistics ordered by wife Claudia and design and production managed by sister Victoria Toohey. Known for its womenswear with a wide range of sizes to suit all women, such as the labels David Carmody and Jacki Peters, Victoria Maxwell still manufactures in New Zealand for higher-end boutiques in New Zealand and Australia. Victoria Maxwell started exporting into Australia with the recent changes to the retail trade demanding more accounts as well as more labels. Victoria Maxwell is taking over the handling and selling of Rose Coat Manufacturing labels while it takes a break from trade. Brian Rose has been working for Rose Coat Manufacturing, founded by his father Hy Rose in 1954, for twenty-four years. Webb and Rose have known each other for many years and both are well known in the retail trade.

Both understand the needs of small businesses and the need to support local trade. Their decision will allow for seamless change, with all sales representatives staying on with their respective labels. Webb started as a commission agent for childrenswear and fashion and is still a commission agent for Marco Polo. He enjoys working in the apparel industry for its social aspect and creative edge. “I like the people and the business with a little bit of creativity,” said Webb. For Rose, the apparel industry’s penchant for change keeps him on his toes. “It’s exciting and continually changing,” said Rose. Rose Coat Manufacturing’s labels now run by Victoria Maxwell are Cordelia St, Jacki K, Hy Rose, RJ Wear, Gitane, Ultimo, Infusion, U First, OPM and Luna Sky.

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INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE FAIR 2015

The International Textile Fair returns to the Dubai World Trade Centre for its second annual outing on 11th and 12th October 2015. At a time when the global trade and apparel sector is expanding tenfold per annum, the ITF has gained prominence as an elite textile expo with an intercontinental outlook. The ITF witnessed unprecedented success even during its first edition, attracting over 5000 visitors of 64 nationalities across five continents. The benchmark was ephemeral, as another was set in the ITF’s April edition this year, when over 6000 visitors registered for the event. With exhibitors coming in from Europe, Asia, Africa and Australia the event set an eclectic ambience. The participation of fashion houses like Carlo Pozzi and Bella Donna stand testimony to the revered stature of the ITF and the April edition saw over 100 exhibitors, highlighting the nascent yet promising mindset of the ITF. A trade only event, ITF provides a professional and conducive atmosphere to business and networking for manufacturers, traders and designers both internationally and within the region. For more information and event registration, visit: www.internationaltextilefair.com.

SWANNDRI AND NZ MERINO JOIN FORCES

Iconic Kiwi clothing company Swanndri has committed to source its wool from The New Zealand Merino Company as it grows its market share domestically and overseas. The supply deal will see Swanndri take a minimum of 30 tonnes of wool from NZM’s supply network of Merino, mid-micron and strong wool growers for use across Swanndri’s entire clothing and accessories range, from jackets and vests to baby blankets and luggage. Strong wool, much of it sourced from Landcorp properties, will be used to produce iconic Swanndri jackets. “We require wool and New Zealand wool is best,” said Swanndri chief executive Mark Nevin. “NZM can supply us with the quantity of fibre we need and, most importantly, of the quality that we and our customers demand.

It also ensures traceability to underline our New Zealand authenticity, which is particularly important in the Northern Hemisphere.” A wellknown brand with a 102-year history in New Zealand, Swanndri has grown its profile internationally, with retail partnerships in Europe, North America and Australia. It has also extended its product range beyond its traditional rural base to incorporate contemporary designs to appeal to urban customers. Swanndri’s traditional retail presence is also evolving with its apparel now available through New Zealand high street fashion leader Barker’s.

RUBY OPENS AT AUCKLAND AIRPORT

Jet setters can now visit fashion brand RUBY at the international departure lounge at Auckland Airport. The store opening is part of the national hub’s new fashion initiative with RUBY being the first New Zealand boutique-clothing brand to open airside. The space is celebrated as the labels’ tenth bricks-and-mortar store, the interior dressed in a classic contemporary aesthetic.

“We’re excited about launching a RUBY presence here, the opportunity to shop post check-in and enjoy tax free shopping should never be underestimated,” said RUBY managing director Christine Sharma who spearheaded the project.

Shop fitting throughout New Zealand and Australia

threesixty.co.nz

8 I August 2015

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FOOTWEARnews

The youngest two of the Kardashian/ Jenner family are set to launch their own independent label, Kendall + Kylie. The range will include apparel, swimwear and most importantly shoes.

“Shoes are my favourite things to shop for. Some days I’ll just go to Barneys and try on as many as I can. I love buying shoes,” said Kylie. Manufactured by Marc Fisher Footwear, the entire range will retail for under $250USD, combining Kendall’s classic feminine style with Kylie’s edgy influences.

CONVERSE TO EMBRACE COMFORT

After nearly 100 years, the iconic Chuck Taylors will receive a redesign with Nike technology to increase wearability, dubbed The Chuck II. The new design will feature Nike’s lightweight Lunarion foam and arch support, with a RRP of $144 for the high tops, as opposed to $83 for the original design. Whilst the shoe has remained unchanged since its introduction in 1917, reports place the brand as one of the frontrunners when it comes to casual sneakers. Converse’s sales jumped 18 per cent to $2 billion in its latest fiscal year, pushing the company to $517 million in pretax profits according to parent company Nike, which bought Converse in 2003.

WAIRARAPA DESIGNER UP FOR DYSON AWARD

Using natural felting properties has landed Wairarapa designer, Emma Warren a shot at an $80,000 international design award. Warren, who started the label Bound by 8, has designed a series of glueless woollen shoes, utilising the fibre’s natural felting properties to create form. One of three NZ finalists, the international Dyson design competition is held annually in 20 countries, funded by the British inventor of the bagless vacuum of the same name. The name Bound by 8 reflects the eight steps involved in making the shoes, eventually producing a biological shoe bound around your foot, according to Warren. “The project is a concept, but it definitely conveys what’s possible both for shoe-maker and the wool industry…a system that’s far more sustainable than what’s available today.” The international winner is announced in November and will be awarded a prize of $67,000 to commercialise the idea and $11,000 for the designer’s university.

WINNER OF THREE ACADEMY AWARDS, THIS IS THE INCREDIBLE TRUE STORY OF HOLLYWOOD’S FASHION DESIGNER ORRY-KELLY

“SHOULD BE SEEN BY ANYONE WHO HAS A LOVE OF CINEMA AND OF FASHION” BOBBY TOWNSEND, SOMETHINGYOUSAID.COM

PG Films, Videos, and Publications Classification Act 1993

Parental Guidance recommended for Younger Viewers.

NOTE: Nudity and coarse language

IN CINEMAS AUGUST 13

10 I August 2015

JENNER SISTERS BECOME SHOE DESIGNERS

NIKE STORE OF THE FUTURE International sportswear brand, Nike, have been quietly implementing new

BARBIE SHOES FOR REAL FEET

The team at Barbie have paired up with Pretty Ballerinas in conjunction with Mattel to bring to life a limited edition human scale replica of Barbie’s shoes. Adorned with a Swarovski heart, the black leather T-bar ballet flats are an exact replica from Barbie’s wardrobe and is the first time Barbie will be sans heels and in a range of sizes for women. “The modern woman has to work, pick up her children from school, attend meetings, breakfasts, events… and all of that without losing her style and elegance. For this reason the ballerina shoes are the star design of our time. And Barbie is now able to embrace that style as well,” said Ursula Mascaro, creative director, Pretty Ballerinas.

technology into its stores worldwide, most recently in its Seattle location.

On top of the Seahawks signed art installation and intricate Michael Jordan display, Nike have introduced its new gait analysis technology.

The technology is designed to produce accurate recommendations based on individual needs, with an expert staff member monitoring the customers running stride. “I had a great time testing out my running and new shoes – this is a fantastic service that Nike offers. It was truly enlightening for me to see how much work I still have to do, and how much my natural stride really does revert back to old habits when I let them slide,” said American runner, Susie Lemmer.

In a partnership with charity organisation Parley for the Oceans, Adidas has produced a prototype shoe upper made entirely from reclaimed ocean waste.

“At Parley for the Oceans, we want to establish the oceans as a fundamental part of the debate around climate change,” said Parley for the Oceans founder, Cyrill Gutsch. Adidas has also announced that it will begin phasing out the use of plastic bags in all of its retail stores. “Adidas has long been a leader in sustainability, but this partnership allows us to tap into new areas and create innovative materials and products for our athletes. We invite everyone to join us on this journey to clean up the oceans,” said Adidas’ Eric Liedtke.

Miss World (NZ) 2015 National Costumes

YOUNG DESIGNERS FASHION SHOW 2015 NEW ZEALAND FASHION WEEK

50 young designers

Getting through the airport is that much easier with the latest offering by Australian footwear retailer Julius Marlow. Thanks to the built in O2 Motion technology, every piece in the SS15 range will feature a “flight path” mode allowing the shoes to be worn through metal detectors without taking them off – a massive selling point for frequent flyers. The range will also feature a lightweight phylon sole weighing just 500 grams with a memory foam insole for extra cushioning and support.

ADIDAS RECYCLED SHOES

AND REVLON PRESENT

Sat August 29 11.30am Viaduct Events Centre

NEW INNOVATION FROM JULIUS MARLOW

On display at Sylvia Park September 7 to 23

Tickets at iticket.co.nz $15 STANDARD SEAT $30 PREMIUM SEAT USING ‘YMCA’ PROMO CODE

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ZOGHBY FOR DOLCE GABBANA

International model Ryan Zoghby, represented by Red 11 Models appeared on Dolce Gabbana’s runway at Alta Sartoria 2015 show in Portifino, Italy.

VOLCOM DENIM REDESIGN Modern lifestyle brand Volcom has introduced a redesigned line of men’s jeans. “In the past we did a lot of weird angles, asymmetric yokes and different seams and flourishes,” said Volcom designer JJ Gonzales. “Now we’re pushing for a superclean look.” The new collection features five new fits that include performance details such as stretch fabric, antimicrobial and moisture wicking properties and a hidden cell phone pocket. The collection retails from US$33 to $75.

MENSWEARnews CRANE BROTHERS APPOINT MANGHAM Crane Brothers have announced the appointment of John Mangham to its Auckland team. Mangham has enormous experience having worked in the men’s tailoring industry since 1993 when he was employed at The Suit Centre – part of Saks Group. Since 1997, Mangham has been regional boutique manager for Italian menswear giant Ermenegildo Zegna, where he became a Su Misura (made to measure and bespoke tailoring) specialist

WOLSEY MARKS 260 YEARS

Known for its cosy knits and outerwear, British heritage label Wolsey celebrates its 260th anniversary this year and has created a capsule collection to mark the milestone. The label’s creative director Chris Lee took inspiration from the company’s long established roots to create two coats, a sweater and accessories that are a nod to the Wolsey archives. Prices for the collection start at £50 and will launch at the brand’s London flagship on Soho’s Brewer Street.

and trainer in 1999. As well as permanently working in Auckland since 2008, he has worked extensively in Australia conducting trunk trips and overseeing the training of Australasian staff. Mangham has taken on the senior sales associate role at Crane Brothers High Street store and will oversee the day-to-day management and sales of its ‘Made in Italy’ programme. Managing director Murray Crane is himself celebrating 30 years in the menswear industry this year.

www.frostex.co.nz

Fashion • Corporate • Manchester

12 I August 2015

SHISEIDO TAPS ANA IVANOVIC

BEAUTYnews

Shiseido has named Serbian tennis star Ana Ivanovic as the ambassador for its WetForce sun protection line, that is formulated to maintain its performance when exposed to water or perspiration. Launched in May, the sunscreen is designed to interact with minerals in water and perspiration to create a more “uniform veil” of protection, according to the company.

SEPHORA SUBSCRIPTION BOX

Beauty brand Sephora is preparing to enter the subscription box space with its Play! By Sephora service. The first box features two products from Estée Lauder. brands Glamglow and Bumble and Bumble. Products by Marc Jacobs Beauty, Ole Henriksen and Sephora Collection, owned by Sephora’s corporate parent company LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, also feature in the box. “We anticipate our entry [into the subscription box service] will push the category to evolve as a whole, which is just another added benefit for consumers,” said Deborah Yeh, senior vice president of marketing at Sephora.

Sephora has profound insight into what consumers want, both online and bricks-and-mortar. “We have extensive research available about what products our clients buy together, what they like, and want, so we try to put together a mix of must-haves and new items to try,” said Yeh. “We also want to make sure the product mix is compatible with the stories we’re communicating to our clients store level.”Play! By Sephora will be exclusive to USA with a soft launch in several cities before officially launching in 2016.

NEW PRESIDENT FOR ELIZABETH ARDEN E. Scott Beattie, Elizabeth Arden Inc’s chairman, president and CEO, has announced that JuE Wong has been appointed president of the Elizabeth Arden brand. The new role coincides with the joint venture agreement with Asian prestige beauty distributor Luxasia Ventures for the Southeast Asia region. With extensive skin-care experience, Wong previously held the position of CEO of StriVectin and Astral Brands as well has a leadership role for Murad. “With extensive commercial and marketing experience, as well as a proven track record in growing brands internationally, Wong’s dynamic leadership skills will leverage our existing capabilities and be a strong complement to our current organisation,” said Beattie.

EVERY SINGLE WEEK IS FASHION WEEK. For one action-packed week in September, the New Zealand fashion industry puts on an incredible show.

And 52 weeks of the year, C&F Garment Management helps keep the show on the road. Day in, day out, we’ll do whatever it takes to make sure your garments reach the store on time, looking perfect. From pressing an entire shipment to sewing on a single button.

We applaud the designers and backstage teams who make Fashion Week the success it is.

www.candf.co.nz apparelmagazine.co.nz

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CAMPBELL LUKE

Bobby Luke is a 22 year old recent graduate from AUT. His brand Campbell Luke is influenced by kaupapa Māori and tells a story with the aesthetics of modern time. The new collection Bespoke Memories of a Pā Kid is inspired by memories of the past, family and culture.

“Memories are a tailored behaviour of every human being. A memory of the past will always reflect your present and future, a representation of who you are as a form of identity politics and matauranga; the pathway to knowledge,” explained Luke.

Nostalgically based on workwear, Campbell Luke reflects the notion of matriarchal societies. It is an interpretation of the beginnings of knowledge and a personal documentation of what life was and how the past can inform what new life will be.

To find out more, email bobbycampbellluke@gmail. com.

Featuring a collection of Miromoda designers showing at NZFW.

DMONIC INTENT

Kristin Leitch, Joe Walker and Maxine and Samara Wooldridge make up the family run label, DMONIC INTENT. “We all work together and live together and when you’re self employed your business never sleeps. We look and treat everything as an opportunity and fill in for each other wherever we can for the greater good of the crew,” said Maxine Wooldridge.

The likeminded family aims to make avant garde the norm with a label focusing on designers’ desires rather than trying to please the masses. Development, experimentation and innovation are paramount to DMONIC INTENT’s design philosophy that consists of individualism and New Zealand quality.

Designing for those who dare to stand out DMONIC INTENT are joining forces with consumers that do not intend on becoming just another superstar of mediocrity. For more information, email info@nakedempirenz.com.

AHO

Based in Christchurch Kristy Bedi is an artist and designer whose work typically draws on culture, identity, hybridity and whakapapa genealogy. With qualifications in both Māori Visual Arts and Political Science, Bedi works in the field of iwi and arts development and her passions lie in textiles and design.

She is now learning as much industry knowledge as she can while developing her fashion and lifestyle label, Aho. Aho Manawa is the first collection from the label to show at New Zealand Fashion Week. Aho manawa, meaning the heart line in Māori, is inspired by kōwhaiwhai, the elegant and often complex patterns that adorn the rafters of wharenui, the focal point of a marae.

Typically united by one continuous line the kōwhaiwhai patterns are underpinned by systems of symmetry. Bedi likens this central line to an umbilical cord, tying whakapapa to the formation of life itself, to Te Kore, Te Po and Te Ao Marama.

Employing the devoré burnout technique, in which chemicals are applied to a mixedOriginally from Tauranga, Shona Tawhiao has showed her designs in fibre textile and cause some of the fibres to Paris, London and Melbourne and her garments walked the runway dissolve, Bedi etches kōwhaiwhai designs during New Zealand, Melbourne and London Fashion Weeks. This into the fibres of fabric before hand dying year her collection Battle Cry will return to New Zealand Fashion each piece. She uses rich colours and detailed Week. designs with simple silhouettes to design for “Showing at home is always great for my work. Sharing with fellow the urban woman who requires effortless, friends designers and artists is just as exciting as showing anywhere elegant and authentic garments. Weaving in the world,” said Tawhiao. Tawhiao creates contemporary mahi culture and identity into clothing’s everyday raranga flax weaving. Her uniquely designed garments combine function Aho is a modern label steeped in rich modern materials and native flax, Harakeke, made with matching Māori heritage. accessories, such as hats and shoes. Unlike most other designers, For more information, contact kristy@ Tawhiao mixes traditional Māori weaving skills with her eye for ahocreative.com. contemporary design and this has helped her build both a local and international profile.

“Combining the two artforms is my way of carrying on traditions of Māori art and bringing it into the future.

Combining both helps it cross over into different worlds,” said Tawhiao.

To find out more, email stawhiao@yahoo.com.

SHONA TAWHIAO

14 I August 2015

STEVE HALL

Abandon Man is the first collection Steve Hall has produced since graduating from Massey University in 2013. The collection draws heavily on the Japanese culture and the costume of the Samurai and Ninja and won the 25 year old from Te Puke the 2015 supreme winner spot at Miromoda as well as the overall winning title at ID International Emerging Designer Award 2015.

“Being selected as the Supreme Winner of Miromoda 2015 was such an amazing experience, and has confirmed that this is what I should be doing. Having the opportunity to present my collection in front of such an influential group of judges was surreal. I now get to show at NZFW which is really exciting!” said Hall.

With an intention to create an unusual spin on menswear, Hall’s designs have a masculine military look counterbalanced by soft textures and portions. The strong collection has a minimalist feel with a deliberate lack of surface details that gives way to an armoured effect.

Hall has created a lineup of loose fitting yet polished looks that blur the lines between ‘his’ and ‘hers’ to instead create ‘theirs’.

For more information, email stevehallofficial@gmail.com.

JORDAINE BROGAN

Young designer and coffee enthusiast, Jordaine Brogan, has a five year plan. She is a visual merchandiser by day and a designer and business student by night. When she is not creating a storm of drawings in her workbooks Brogan soaks in inspiration from her local café and the streets of her hometown Christchurch.

Brogan’s first collection Re: Adjust 2.0 explores the designer’s sense of self as she finds her feet in the fashion industry while experiencing the aftermath of the Christchurch Earthquake. “I got to see pop art arrive and the debris somewhat leave the city, this creating my main focus of inspiration for my collection of separates with a lot of attention to detail,” said Borgan.

From the age of twelve Brogan’s creative flair was evident.

Hand sewing handbags out of leather scraps was one of her first steps towards the fashion industry. Graduating from the Design and Arts College of New Zealand with an Advanced Diploma in Fashion Design in 2014 was a highlight. Brogan has gained first hand work room experience under Miriam Eisenhart and worked in millinery and fashion buying. She also won first place at the Riccarton Races for Costume Design. Comfortable and simplistic, Re: Adjust 2.0 features separates that don’t need elaborate embellishments to be sophisticated. To find out more, email broganjordaine@ gmail.com.

SYRE

A defiant streetwear label for the rebellious and disobedient, Syre is led by 17 year old Aaliyah Jobe. Jobe is a second generation Miromoda designer, the daughter and niece of the DMONIC INTENT designers also in this year’s showcase.

Syre’s CAPT collection focuses on masculine unisex garments that address the New Zealand flag debate. For a satirical spin Caption Crook, instead of Captain Cook, is referenced to shed light on the issue of sovereignty and the colonisation of New Zealand. Jobe’s collection addresses age old issues with a youth targeted dialogue inspired by American pop culture and sportswear.

To find our more, email syreordie@gmail.com.

AJ BRADLEY

Just Kids is a memoir by legendary artist Patti Smith, documenting her first movements in New York. AJ Bradley was inspired by this tome and the romantic bohemian lifestyle the author shared with photographer Robert Mapplethorpe. The Hungry Years is a collection that pays homage to a golden time for artists like Smith and Mapplethorpe in the 1970s. “The 1970s held hope and opportunities forged by the bold few who would live a life of rejection, struggle, and poverty,” explained Bradley.

With an all round bohemian feel and bohemian styling the collection has a colour palette and stitching detail indicative of the time. Exploring the culture of an epochal time in American music, literature, and photography The Hungry Years possessed 1970s nostalgia and hints at a beatnik subculture.

For more information, email annalisabradley@ gmail.com.

DARLENE GORE

From her hometown of Dunedin, Darlene Gore’s collection showing at NZ Fashion Week is influenced by the climate and setting of the South Island. After completing a Diploma in Fashion and Design at Otago Polytech Gore and fellow graduate Richard Moore opened a small made to measure studio in Dunedin for tailored suits to wedding gowns. This helped to expand her skills in tailoring and her understanding of the importance of the fit and finish of garments.

Gore grew a love of tailoring and beautiful fabrics and began to teach garment construction and patternmaking at Otago Polytech, which in turn led to her working with various clothing companies in Dunedin and learning all aspects of the garment trade. Now after a ten year break from the fashion industry and with a desire to create her own label of quality garments, Gore has created a collection of finely tailored pieces that transcend fashion fads. Lasting pieces for any women’s wardrobe is the blueprint of her designs.

To find out more, email iainanddarlene@slingshot.co.nz.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 15

colour trending

International Threads

For the second year running, New Zealand Fashion Tech is pushing back against fashion’s love affair of black, producing another Colour of Fashion collection.

The collection is a showcase of the potential colour has to bring creations to life, colour matched with the innovative offerings of Resene. Ultimately ten looks were chosen, five from Auckland and five from Wellington. The chosen diploma students made their garments from hand-woven Indian silk saris and have been transformed into fashion forward offerings that will open four Resene sponsored shows at New Zealand Fashion Week.

What’s interesting is how the designers didn’t rely on the beauty of the fabric, and opted to experiment a lot with shape, with dramatic effect. For example, Grace Kleinsman’s construction of a headpiece to compliment and amp up the purple dress based on Resene Renaissance.

The same experimentation of shape can be seen in Princess Whioke’s blue dress that drew on the deep and harsh blue Resene Into The Blue, and paired it with an equally dramatic silhouette.

“Audiences will see a very cool collision of Resene’s new-season paint colours, exciting young designers from NZ Fashion Tech with no creative limitations, and the colour imaginings of India - a nation whose zest for colour has long been woven into beautiful fabric,” said Karen Warman, Marketing Manager, Resene Paints.

This year a panel of judges will chose a winner, who will then be offered the opportunity to fly to and spectate the iD fashion week, which is fast becoming the ultimate shop-window for emerging talent.

Not only will the Colour of Fashion pieces be seen at New Zealand Fashion Week, but thanks to the 20 Prime Minister scholarships for Asia awarded to NZ Fashion Tech this year, following the runway shows, the looks will be shown again in an event held in India.

Speaking about his experience with the Colour of Fashion project last year, Taylor Jarden-Lambert recalled the life changing event, remembering how lovely the Indian people are and the knowledge of offshore fashion.

“Learning that I think will have the most positive impact for me in my career in fashion. We now have a unique, first-hand view of manufacturing fashion garments off-shore,” he said.

Collaborations and experiences like this are what is helping drive the creative products coming out of the fashion industry, as we move into a multi-cultural civilisation that is inter-connected and expanding.

“Taylor’s response to the experience epitomises that of the group. The totality of the experience was so immense and empowering for all 15 students, we’re certain it will enhance their careers and their lives in many different ways. We are looking forward to watching their careers with great interest,” said Val Marshall-Smith, Director, NZ Fashion Tech.

Colours available from

Resene ColorShops www.resene.co.nz

0800 737 363 16 I August 2015

RESENE Clockwork Orange

RESENE Renaissance

RESENE Limerick

RESENE Kaitoke Green

RESENE Moscato

RESENE Into The Blue

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 17

retail feature

SALE SPACE The retail space is the most immediate way to connect with consumers. While digital technology is upping the ante for brick and mortar stores, thoughtful retail spaces can keep meaning ful interactions grounded.

Apparel talks to businesses committed to enhancing the retail floor.

RETAIL IS CHANGING Of the $75 billion in New Zealand retail sales last year, only $6-$7 billion was spent online, according to the BNZ Online Retail Sales Report. Many focus on the disruption of online shopping in the retail space but the statistics do not match the concern. What is most important is customer focus.

ShopFloor is New Zealand’s new hub for pop up retail space allowing designers and retailers to get closer to consumers and be in control of their brand message.

Offering meaningful interactions with customers, ShopFloor helps brands tell a story with its beautiful spaces and innovative creative services. Here to support New

Zealand retail, ShopFloor makes it easier to set up shop and increases the ability to use short term space through ongoing support. It’s an inspiring project led by Alex Leece who sees a need to connect brands, artists and designers with supportive spaces that reflect the mood of their designs.

“Rental prices are rising steadily whilst online accessibility means people are shopping differently, causing businesses to need to adjust models to meet new expectations of dynamism, immediacy and personal engaging experiences,” said Leece.

ShopFloor perceives that the trend for pop up stores is due to three factors. Firstly, there is a ‘personal selling revolution’ where online tools and social media make it easier than ever to start an online business to gain brand momentum before moving offline. As a new retail channel a pop up can then build brand equity into a space while sharing the offset rent costs to make further exposure and customer footprints achievable.

The notion of retail as an experience is also driving the trend for pop ups. Brands need to differentiate their offering to engage the growing needs of consumers and offline is still the preferred channel to make a personal connection. With a pop up, brands can test and learn new retail concepts whilst building a customer database.

If working with ShopFloor, part time retailers can also utilise the company’s retail expertise and advertising services.

IMPROVE YOUR WEBSITE WITH A FREE WEBSITE AUDIT Zeald will give you a report detailing some areas to improve to get your website generating greater results for your business. www.zeald.com/apparel

18 I August 2015

retail feature There are around 30,559 people working in creative industries in New Zealand and in 2011 creatives, including fashion designers, contributed $3.6 billion to the local economy. The combination of the local economy, sharing economy and on demand economy is the third driver of pop up store popularity. By renting shared pop up spaces to a number of creatives, local makers are able to connect and join forces. This is the sharing economy enabled by a shared space. The on demand economy is driven by consumers who expect everything to be accessible immediately, a pop up store can help designers and online stores meet this heightened demand.

Real estate agents also gain from pop ups as they can generate revenue in between major tenants or offer it as a supplementary service to clients. ShopFloor sees pop up stores as a growing area of opportunity for a range of businesses and with its expertise in branding, ShopFloor are inspiring the pop up revolution in New Zealand.

REAL SPACE, REAL TIME Apparel21 Retail is a software solution from Apparel21 that benefits brick and mortar stores. Incorporating merchandise planning, back office systems and retail POS functionality in a single integrated solution it creates a sense of synergy for the fast paced retail environment.

By eliminating the need for multiple systems manual processes are removed, errors are reduced, and data visibility is improved across a business for better decision making. One of the greatest advantages of this solution is its real time data display and ability to create custom reports, meaning accurate decisions can be made efficiently.

Given its single purpose design and fashion industry purpose, Apparel21 Retail requires little customisation. Apparel21’s industry consultants can map existing retail systems to ensure the transition is as seamless as possible.

When time is money on the retail floor, Apparel21 Retail manages it all to keep stores stocked and sales monitored.

WOULD YOU LIKE WIFI WITH THAT? Newly advanced smartphones and tablets have created a field of opportunity in the retail space. Offering shoppers guest wifi at retail stores does not only benefit those walking in and out of the store but can enhance customer service and create new efficiencies for retail staff.

Guest wifi enables customers to download rich retailer content and can act as a

Apparel 21 is fashionware.

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I 19

retail feature

SECOND HAND SHOP FITTINGS

door counter while gaining demographic information to enhance marketing and sale strategy. The highly regarded Aruba guest wifi system is available through POSCOM.co.nz . This high performance wireless LAN records information such as customers’ email, gender and interests by registering shoppers through a facebook sign up and it can create a preferred internet landing page for the retailer’s special promotions.

With information obtained, and customer permission, retailers can ascertain spending habits to provide the right products and services customers are expecting.

Marketing campaigns can be delivered to key interest groups.

Mobility is a key trend in modern retail and is seamlessly enabled by Aruba when paired with wireless devises. By pairing sales tablets with wifi sales assistants have the ability to offer the best information and discounts when talking to customers on the floor.

The system can be tweaked to only allow internet surfing as opposed to copious amounts of download and Aruba systems apply security standards with a ICSAcertified firewall so all users are safe. This is especially beneficial if the retailer chooses to operate its POS system through the wifi system.

POSCOM can help with installation and additional retailer objectives including POS and inventory management through the use of guest wifi.

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20 I August 2015

Quotes can easily increase when embarking on a new fit out project or store update.

Buying second hand and selling your previous systems is a cost effective approach already used by many apparel retailers.

Licensed second hand dealers of shelving and shop fittings for over twenty years, Surplus Traders have one of the largest ranges of used shop fittings in New Zealand. It has two large warehouses in Avondale, Auckland, full of sign holders, clothing racks, mannequins, clothing wall systems and more.

Recognising a need for affordable fit outs, Surplus Traders are committed to keeping costs down and helping the environment by recycling.

Recently, Surplus Traders installed shelving at the Auckland City Mission.

“We are humble to receive such wonderful support towards the work we do. We are grateful for Surplus Traders’ professional and expert approach,” said Dame Diane Robertson of the Auckland City Mission.

Andrew Flint and Matt Cowan of Surplus Traders are helpful and professional and they can help with layout for shops, showrooms and warehouses.

With new stock arriving daily Surplus Traders’ website is updated with the latest deals. Flint and Cowan are open to both buying and selling all types of shelving and shop fit out.

TECH TALKS WITH LUMINARY Q: What options are available, and what works best for utilising multi-media technology in store?

The options available now within the multimedia retail space or interactive retail marketing space are endless. Anything is possible and if you can think of it you can probably do it.

Options that are regularly talked about are ones that allow for a responsive and personalised experience such as iBeacon technology and behavioural technology that allow users to be recognised on arrival in store.

Macy’s first introduced their iBeacon retail concept in 2013 and now have four thousand shopBeacon devices throughout North America. The beacons allow Macy’s customers to gain access to discounts, sales and other promotions that are specific to their location and chosen store department.

There are technologies that allow customers to engage with a digitised display

retail feature

environment instore, and out, and technologies that create agile and interactive shopping experiences. Oakley, for example, has made the most of its floor space by introducing ceiling mounted digital screens. The twenty-seven screens suspended across the length of the New York retail space attract and entertain customers while ensuring every square foot counts in its Fifth Avenue premium price location.

Kate Spade uses Perch Technology, a technology that projects product and campaign information onto the product display area to create an immersive experience that increases interaction, dwell time and conversation.

Other developments include using behavioural technology that makes suggestions for customers. This includes Kate Spade, obviously a favourite of Luminary’s, and her construction site shopping experience. Mentioned in our previous Tech Talks, Kate Spade’s digital store front at the site of construction allowed curious shoppers to interact with the brand and shop with touch screens before the store even opened.

Most recently Bentley launched their Bentley Studio, an App that suggests which car would suit a buyer through emotional analysis.

We also have to mention those developments that make the purchase experience even easier for customers, such as Cancer Research UK’s integration with mobile to allow contactless donation via their store front, or those that allow for online purchase and pick up in-store.

The key to success around this immense choice is ensuring that you are providing a solution for your customers needs rather than creating something gimmicky that you think they may need, and then try to convince your customer that their shopping experience is improved because of it.

Interactive retail marketing allows us to change shopping culture, by creating an experience that makes shoppers visit your bricks and mortar destination even if they don’t have a purchase in mind.

If we start to change the question around the problem of sales instore from “How do I close the sale?” to “ How do I increase the frequency of visits to store?” we can start to come up with a solution that enhances the retail environment. We can map out the path to purchase to ensure all of the touch points we have with potential customers are considered and as a result create an amazing and unforgettable experience at each point.

Have a new technology question? Email nzapparel@reviewmags.com with the subject line ‘Tech Talks with Luminary’ and it could be answered in the next issue of Apparel.

CREATE & INSPIRE

Born unintentionally by George Wilkins and Will McCallum, George & Willy simply started because the friends began making things together for their own enjoyment. Both designers enjoy simple, timeless and functional objects so they collaborated on a boatshed project and turned their hobby into a business. Mastering products they need for themselves and by extension that others might also find useful, George & Willy offers a range of fit out items from trestle desks to enamel mugs.

“We wake up every day, have a cup of tea, unlock the workshop and get excited about working with honest materials to create products which are going to be around for generations to enjoy” Retail stores in particular can benefit from George & Willy’s clothing racks. There is an industrial clothing rack, simple and strong in galvanized steel, a hanging clothing rack, perfect for showrooms in particular, or a commercial clothing rack, proven to hold three swinging large men (250kgs). With impeccable style and adaptability (the commercial clothing rack can be packed down using just an allen key) George & Willy are here to create and inspire.

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apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 21

NZFWsketches

A

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A Moochi; B Frances Jerard; C Natalie Chan; D Liz Mitchell; E Liz Mitchell; F Stolen Girlfriends Club; G Annah Stretton; H RUBY; I Hera Bridal; J Stolen Girlfriends Club; K Robyn Cliffe; L Crane Brothers; M Carena West

W F Z #N

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22 I August 2015

liann bellis SS15/16 Collection SHOWING AT VANCOUVER FASHION WEEK

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apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 23

trendWATCH

Wear it with pride With the dramatic shift in opinion across the globe, acceptance and pride have been on the political and moral forefront, having a direct impact on recent fashion products.

Enter the rainbow. A symbol of diversity in the community, a sign of hope born in times of hate, and now a fashion icon.

For Marques’Almeida this meant something more abstract and detached from its usual offering of frayed denim and hard edges, this time showcasing

24 I August 2015

softer fabrics in a full spectrum of colours. As the fabric delicately draped over the models, visions of fields full of hippies came to mind in a display of vibrant patchwork and layering.

Although the collection was largely inspired by more sombre and dull themes, the muted palette of Dries Van Noten’s offering was brightened by exciting rainbow panels.

Paired with elements of gold, and other earthy tones, the show felt substantially surreal and harnessed visuals relating to fantasy and woodland creatures, piecing together an idea of the magical forest kingdom.

Stepping away from just clothing, rainbow designs have been seen across various accessories, from footwear to bags, emphasising the reach of this global trend.

WHO IS ORRYKELLY?

A friend of John Wayne and Judy Garland yet unknown in his home country of Australia, Orry-Kelly was the bold costume designer behind the scenes of Hollywood’s greatest box office successes. Woman He’s Undressed is a new documentary, directed by Gillian Armstrong, which sheds light on the man who amplified Marilyn Monroe’s assets and made theatres fall in love with Casablanca.

“Here I was in Hollywood, engaged to dress film stars brighter than any I had seen on the flickering screen at home. The kid from Kiama, son of a once bankrupt importer of tweeds and weeds.”

Distinctively witty, Orry-Kelly spoke of his career as an unlikely transformation. And it was.

The 18 year-old meant to be banker moved to Los Angeles in 1931, where he hyphenated his name to sound more stylish and started work as costume designer for Warner Bros. When the golden age of Hollywood believed more was more, Orry-Kelly focused on women’s bodies alone, creating iconic lines and costumes.

Casablanca, originally anti-Hitler propaganda, needed a loveable female lead for the plot to work.

Orry-Kelly dressed Ilsa Lund, played

by Ingrid Bergman, in elegant

silhouettes for a wholesome appeal.

The ever famous Some Like it Hot comedy starring Marilyn Monroe, who was known in the industry for her aversion to underwear, was a feat of Orry-Kelly’s design skills, both for creating supportive designs and for creating barely there dresses that passed the censorious production codes of the time. It was his ability to set the colour, mode and tone of a film through costume design that spun Orry-Kelly’s dresses into the spotlight.

The iconic red gown of Jezebel was made to be scandalous but Orry-Kelly created it in a demure grey to look redder on the black and white screen. He was a visionary that understood the needs of cinema.

Winning three Academy Awards, for Some Like it Hot as well as the Gene Kelly musicals An American In Paris and Les Girls, Orry-Kelly was a Hollywood regular but soon took to the Hollywood Hills for a reclusive life.

Orry-Kelly was known as an honest man who covered the flaws of Hollywood’s greats. Women He’s Undressed tells a personal tale of the young boy who played with his dollhouse theatre, the teen who fell in with Sydney’s underworld and the man that created the very glitz and glamour of Hollywood.

behind the business

FREE TRADE AGREEMENTS – what impact will this have on my business?

Off shore production remains a consistently hot topic for the fashion industry. The opportunities presented by Free Trade Agreements are important considerations for New Zealand and Australian businesses of all sizes when planning their growth strategies.

New Zealand is currently a signatory to several agreements. These incorporate powerful trade relationships with countries including Australia, China, Malaysia, Singapore, Hong Kong, Thailand, Chile, plus a number of others, primarily within Southeast Asia.

The formation of a strategic trade partnership with China in 2008 demonstrated impressive vision from New Zealand. This represented the very first Free Trade Agreement of any nation with China. It instantly removed import duty from most categories and has progressively either removed, completed or substantially reduced the costs on the balance. This is a significant outcome for New Zealand businesses.

By drawing on the support of an FTA between countries, opportunities for engagement are enhanced. In the case of trade between China and Australia/New Zealand as an example, partnering in line with a mature understanding of the scope of requirement for the region, such as reduced minimum order quantities, instantly creates an affordable pathway for off shore production.

Mr. Zhang Shu, General Manager of the International Trade Department of China Inner Mongolia Spring Snow Cashmere Company, a past exhibitor at China Clothing & Textiles Expo confirmed that as a business they don’t insist on a minimum quantity for import orders from the region.

Whilst small compared to other international markets, the importance of New Zealand and Australia as trading partners is recognized by many organisations in China. Now in its 15th year the ongoing success of the annual China Clothing & Textiles Expo, held this year in Melbourne, is testament to a connection that continues to be strengthened through formalised FTAs. The China Clothing and Textiles Expo, will be co-located with International Sourcing Expo Australia at the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre from 16th – 18th November. Australian businesses can profit from connections with more than 450 apparel, accessories, footwear, fabric and trim suppliers from China, India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Fiji, Indonesia, Hong Kong, Taiwan and elsewhere. For existing or emerging businesses looking to source international partnerships the expo presents a forum for face to face connection.

Local businesses, of all sizes, need the support of suppliers who have a genuine interest in engaging with business in Australia and New Zealand and who also understand the realities of the need to deliver small order quantities. The

exhibitors at the event, through their commitment to participate, fit this profile.

Mentoring from industry is important in making the transition to working with an offshore partner or moving into a new production region. Accessing valuable insights into how to effectively manage these relationships will be key to business success. The International Sourcing Expo offers a seminar program which features presentations on these topics by industry experts. International speaker Mike Bellamy of the China Sourcing Information Centre, a well-known presenter at similar sourcing expos and international sourcing expert will again present to audiences at the November event.

Realising the commercial incentives and opportunity attached to trade agreements, along with connection, learning and insights garnered at the expo offer a solid platform for businesses who want to profit from international engagement. New Zealand and Australian retailers, manufacturers, agents and designers can buoy themselves into their next phase of growth by leveraging this network of resources, and forge ahead, internationally, with confidence. So, is your business too small to partner off shore? Absolutely not.

Free trade registration and more details are available online now at www. internationalsourcingexpo.com and www.chinatextiles.com.au. Registration for one event will provide you with access to both.

China Clothing & Textiles Expo + International Sourcing Expo Melbourne Convention & Exhibition Centre, Australia Monday 16th – Wednesday 18th November 2015 Melissa Wortley, Rise Marketing

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apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 25

behind the business

The industry according to . . .

NEVILLE FINDLAY ZAMBESI Reinvention... the Mother of Survival.

Like in so many facets of modern society, rapid change is a predominant influence within the fashion world. Fast forward, instant gratification and disposable trends are so prominent in the twenty teens. The challenge for those who care is how to hold fast to their long won brand values?

Take the example of a beautiful campaign shoot to launch a new collection.

A talented photographer will work their magic together with brilliant models, make-up artist, stylist, hair director and post-production to produce a stunning piece of art, which unless booked for a glossy magazine or poster is likely destined to appear on Facebook, Instagram or other social media where the appreciation and enjoyment of the reader may be measured in a few seconds at best. This situation is of course now a fact of life in our industry and so demands a new and different skill set for our creative’s to master.

The danger lies in the loss of appreciation in the subtleties... of light, contrast and mood that an enduring image may evoke on paper. This is a mere example, but indeed characterises so many aspects of our creative appreciation.

Zambesi has always favoured the notion of producing enduring clothes for real people where season on season there is a connecting thread, and whilst each is fresh and exciting it seems like a generation of collections manifesting as seamless and endless. This modus operandi has given Zambesi a comfortable place in the market where their clientele does not always demand a slavish adherence to fad, colour or trend.

That said, the challenges of today are still to be dealt with and to that extent we all seem to be on a huge learning curve, especially when preserving brand values held dear. The obvious biggie is the huge presence of specialist online shopping sites, aggressively attempting to penetrate into traditional retail shopping habits.

Whilst this is a war that may not be won, it is important to remember and foster what is inherently great about the physical shopping experience. This is surely where one can personalise and enhance “brand love” in a way that even the slickest online operation may be found wanting.

“The challenges of today are still to be dealt with and to that extent we all seem to be on a huge learning curve, especially when preserving brand values held dear.”

The obvious ideal is to excel on both platforms and to that end Zambesi will soon launch a new improved website, which is just part of their ongoing updating process.

The Zambesi phenomenon started back in 1979 and is now the result of more than just the efforts of its creators. Zambesi is the embodiment of a highly talented design team, dedicated staff, committed family and loyal customers. The way in which Zambesi’s clientele have styled and collected the clothes over the years has been an inspiration to head designer Elisabeth Findlay. She is constantly amazed at the clever way clothes are styled on the street and is truly of the belief that the Zambesi faithful are unique stylists in their own right.

So contemporary challenges are many and complex, but the following maxim should hold true: “Be acutely aware of your ever changing journey... but hold fast to your dream.”

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26 I August 2015

the key piece

Blue Jeans Yves Saint Laurent once said, “I have often said that I wish I had invented blue jeans.”

Create Your Future Massey University Wellington College of Creative Arts Toi Rauwharangi Applications open now creative.massey.ac.nz

As time passed, this quote still resonates with many designers, with blue jeans surpassing trends to become one of the most sought after staple items.

Phillip Lim worked denim into his collection, building on a bad girl concept with a polished finish.

“I always like to challenge myself, so I wanted the denim this season to be casual without being sloppy.

I wanted it to be appropriate – there is so much denim out there that I wanted our pieces to really be special,” said Lim. In an almost identical approach, Jeremy Scott used denim for its inherent ‘street’ properties, subverting what it means to be high fashion.

“I was thinking about all the codes of the street, and denim is an absolute staple of how we dress every day. I wanted to take that quotidian aspect and flip it on its ear. Inside out with pocket bags flapping around? Check. Twisted back to front? Check. Halter dress looking like a pair of jeans with the legs tied around your neck? Check,” said Scott.

The same trans-seasonal, timeless approaches to denim can be seen in the works of Karen Walker, Rag & Bone, WORLD, and Sass & Bide.

Sean Kelly Massey fashion graduate 2013 Winner, Project Runway S/13, 2014 Photo Frazer Harrison, Getty Images

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 27

nuts & bolts

LYNLEY FRIEDLANDER Production Manager at Jane Daniels Jane Daniels’ production manager Lynley Friedlander is a creative person who loves being busy and working with others. After leaving school, Friedlander studied to become a Karitane nurse, topping her national exams and nannying for a prestigious London family as well as a member of the Iranian royal family. Returning to New Zealand she trained as a florist, leading her to owning a florist shop in Remuera, Auckland, for several years.

When a friend asked Friedlander to help out with hand work at the Jane Daniels head office she agreed and began working there temporarily, but was asked to continue on the next day and the next.

Although not professionally trained in garment making, Friedlander was taught to sew by her mother and from the age of eleven began making her own clothes. Both her grandmothers were also very talented with hand work. Offered a full time role as a design assistant, Friedlander began working on a number of garments, which at the time featured hand painting.

When offered the production manager position at Jane Daniel’s she says that she initially declined, as she was bringing up two young children, but has now been in the role for the past six and a half years.

As the production manager, Friedlander organises deliveries, writes up cut sheets, re-cuts flaws, checks grades, assembles garments for client viewing and

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㄀㄀琀栀 ☀ ㄀㈀琀栀 伀䌀吀伀䈀䔀刀

28 I August 2015

shows and makes sure everyone has everything they need, while mitigating any problems along the way. All trims, labels, care labels, buttons and zips are ordered and sorted to go out with cut work. When garments are completed and back at head office Friedlander and her team check for quality and organise for distribution and despatch. The team has a full time driver who is organised into various runs each day to achieve a more time efficient and cost effective operation.

“It is essential to prioritise as I juggle lots of things at once. Patience and good communication skills are important as I am dealing with many different workrooms. It is wonderful to have a great team working with me which makes a huge difference – I have a fantastic production assistant,” said Friedlander.

Jane Daniels produces approximately one hundred styles per season, in varying size runs and fabrics, as well as specialty one off garments for clients, which have to be individually cut. Not surprisingly, Friedlander’s biggest challenge is timing. Jane Daniels has a much tighter time frame than other designers as the eponymous designer is buying the very latest fabrics from Europe that has to be turned around quickly.

“It is exciting to be involved with the latest ideas, fashion and fabrics from Europe. Jane is amazing with colour and I love the colour combinations and inspirations from her travels,” said Friedlander.

Her objectives are to produce the best possible quality Jane Daniels’ garments and deliver them on time, to give retailers the best chance to sell within the season.

behind the business

inDETAIL: HARMAN GRUBISA Shortly after opening their Ponsonby store in early July, design duo Madeline Harman and Jessica Grubiša are showing at New Zealand Fashion Week.

Both graduates of Whitecliffe they decided to combine their talents after Harman worked in New York and Grubiša worked locally with World and Black magazine.

The pair formed Harman Grubiša in 2014 and has moved from strength to strength, having already dropped two collections. The All That Matters SS14/15 collection ranged from painterly colour effects to earthy tones. Bell shapes on sleeves and skirts embraced the femininity of the collection while details such as handmade shoes ensured Harman Grubiša’s passion for quality garments from the outset.

For Harman Grubiša, running the label has become more than a job, consuming their lives, a 24 hour lifestyle to ensure quality clothes for interested customers.

“It’s all happening at once. We’re excited, we’re nervous,” said Grubiša. “We’re showing our AutumnWinter 16 collection Dakota at NZFW while also working on our Spring-Summer 15/16 collection Holiday, so our workload doubled overnight.”

Balanced like their collections, the duo shares the workload evenly. Grubiša focuses on the production side of the business while Harman focuses on the details and marketing side of the brand.

A throwback to the seventies, the second collection Lean Close AW15 is a fashion-forward conceptual series of clothes that is fast establishing the brand as a leading team for producing quality original work. Like its new Ponsonby store with rose-gold tinted mirrors and a bluestone marble counter, the collection has a

modern and sophisticated tone.

Flares and fringing drive home the seventies vibe with more contemporary design ideas. Named after a song by Matthew Young, a contemporary and sensuous New Zealand R&B artist, the collection is a treat for the senses, with soft leather and softer silk.

With a diverse yet cohesive palette of burnt orange, pink and green, the collection still brings together staples of black and white for a well-rounded offering fit for the new store. Catering to the ever-evolving, modern day woman the collection combines work and play.

“Our NZFW look speaks to a woman that owns her beauty with an inherent sense of style,” said the duo. Harman Grubiša’s NZFW collection yet again motivates customers to steer clear of throwaway fashion with its elegant New Zealand made design.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 29

special report

CROWDFUNDED FASHION

As a new designer getting noticed and getting paid for your designs is a top priority.

Luckily, new notions in crowdfunding now make it easier for young brands to gain recognition and revenue.

“When you get enough people excited by what you do it becomes a movement – which helps you fund your entire business, one successful item at a time.”

Before The Label The popular crowdfunding website Kickstarter has revolutionised and democratised business funding.

Recently its projects have included helping the Smithsonian conserve Neil Armstrong’s historic spacesuit and supporting a documentary on Emily Dickenson.

Almost anyone can create a Kickstarter project, a page on their website that pledges for funding from website visitors. With the wide range of projects online it’s no surprise that young fashion designers are joining Kickstarter and similar websites to jump start their brand. Lauren Holehouse of Malola Swim first learnt about crowdfunding during her fashion degree and after some deliberation she chose to start a project with Give a Little from the Spark Foundation to fund her second swimwear collection.

“When I first left university I was struggling to find funding and my class learnt about crowdfunding scenarios and how they can help young brands,” said Holehouse.

“A lot of worked is involved in creating a project professionally and I was worried going into it as I may have looked like I was begging, but at the end of the day there are so many people that want to hear your story and support you . I met my target of $8,000 in only two weeks. I would recommend crowdfunding to anyone else in a similar situation to me.”

Fashion specific crowdfuning, where garments are the reward for backers also help labels to find out what designs work, before committing to production so it’s the perfect test platform for young brands.

Before the Label is one such fashion specific crowd funding website that allows any designer to submit campaigns so they can both test styles and gain a following from consumers.

“When you get enough people excited by what you do it becomes a movement – which helps you fund your entire business, one successful item at a time,” states Before The Label on its website.

30 I August 2015

It’s free to sign up here and create your own campaign while Before the Label takes 10% of the funds raised to care for the shipment, fulfillment of orders and packaging, the rest of the work is up to the designers. Some forward thinking labels have taken the crowdfunding trend further by creating their own website with in-house crowdfunding platforms.

Targeting independent fashion consumers these brands offer clothing in return for funding. Listing garments on its website and only starting production when they have the required funding and hence minimum order.

Gustin a premium menswear label from San Francisco have proven that this business model is both cost effective and time effective. “We use crowdsourcing to line up supply and demand for every product we make. This creates zero waste cycle and we return the savings to our backers.

Our formerly US$205-$269 selvedge jeans now start at US$81. A US$200 Japanese cotton Oxford button down is now only US$69,” said a Gustin representative. “When you approach an industry from a totally new angle, you can do some pretty cool things.”

Fashion crowdfunding helps combat the current consumer need for instant gratification as the quality and cost benefits outweigh a slightly longer purchase time. It takes around two weeks for a Gustin garment campaign to run and six to eight weeks for production. This new approach brings decision making straight into the consumers laps and laptops.

It is particularly beneficial for consumers with specific needs. For example, The Petite Shop is an online retailer specialising in petite apparel for women 5’4” and under.

As The Petite Shop is a distributor and not a manufacturer, independent designers list their garments on her website and will remake the clothing in petite specific proportions if minimum orders are

placed. Consumers benefit from the increase in choice as a plethora of fashions can now be made to their size retractions.

“Crowdfunding technology has allowed a leaner, lower-risk collaborative retail model to emerge,” explained Elizabeth Bates, founder, The Petite Shop.

For Australasian businesses in house crowdfunding is a clever method to connect with consumers, gain brand momentum and support local industry.

By Jessica-Belle Greer

editd

SWEATPANTS: Time to jog on?

@beaucoops

We’re back again to answer the Great Unsolved – the apparel industry questions submitted by you. We’ve already responded to your queries on the next big trends, how to price dresses and given you the lowdown on landing a career in the industry. Now, we turn our attention to that love-hate item: sweatpants.

Q: HOW BIG ARE JOGGERS FOR FALL ‘15? ARE THEY GOING TO COME OFF THE BOIL OR ARE THEY AS BIG AS LAST YEAR? EDITD Answer: Since we value brevity over here at EDITD, we’ll answer your second question right off the bat: it’s probably coming off the boil. But of course, it’s not black and white. No, that’d be much too easy, wouldn’t it? So, okay, let’s take a closer look.

Overall, new arrivals of women’s sweatpants have started to trail off, but not dramatically. There are still more new joggers arriving in stores now than at this time last year. And to be clear, we’re talking about arrivals within the jogger trend. Not the ones that have always, and will always, be around. So, more arrivals is good right? Well, remember, they’re dropping into an already packed market. Very packed.

To put that ‘packed-ness’ in context, consider the kimono. Though it’s cooling down, the trend still has 5,808 products online globally. Equally popular, culottes exist cumulatively as 3,843 products globally.

And joggers? 13,038 total products.

If that’s red flag number one, here’s number two: half of those products are discounted. And by more than a little. The average discount on a pair of joggers is 37%.

Drilling down into the 3 month period of April 1 – July 1 2015, the majority of new products were priced between $30-40 and 5.7% of them sold out – while 27% have since been discounted. Contrasted to the same period in 2014, 5.4% of new arrivals sold out, but just 14% were ever discounted. Sell outs have grown by a decimal, while discounts have pretty much doubled.

We’ll call that red flag number three.

So, given all that, what is selling well? Pale grey, drawstring waist joggers, more for workouts than daywear, are still dominant. Especially at Superdry, Topshop, Forever 21 and Wildfox. For printed joggers, the last three months have favoured the painterly prints from Onzie, animal print from ASOS, geometric from River Island, flamingoes at G-Star and floral from New Look.

These fresher takes feel like the right direction, but don’t don’t expect them to sustain the trend at full force. After all, women’s joggers were not a huge presence on the Fall 2015 runways. Instead, designers made strong moves towards wider leg shapes and denim flares.

So what’s it all look like when you add it up? Given the data and the lack of runway ubiquity, our advice would be to proceed cautiously. Though we’d be wrong to say there aren’t a couple of exceptions.

If you’re a retailer manufacturing at the popular $30-$40 price point, things seems to suggest you should carry on doing what you’re doing. No need to dramatically pull back, but do use the trends within the trend. Go ahead and ramp up the prints and expect to discount within three months.

If you are a premium retailer eager to stock into joggers, the best bet is to push towards luxe sport and loungewear. Sure, the time to promote ‘styling up’ joggers for work and nights out has passed, but more and more consumers are investing in quality activewear. That’s where your opportunity lies.

For everyone else, it’s probably time to slip into something less comfortable.

We hope that answers your question! If there’s anything else you’d like to know about this or the retail industry in general, we’re always here for you to ask!

By Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITD

@karenwalker

@twentysevennames

@zambessisince79

Contact us now to discuss your needs.

Phone: +64 9 255 2560 I Mobile: 021 769 560 Email: john@dsl.co.nz I www.dsl.co.nz apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 31

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