Apparel Magazine // June 2015

$ 9.00

JUNE 2015 I VOL 48 I NO 6

TRUE BLUE pg 18

16 27

04 14

NEWS

RADAR

COLOUR TRENDING GENDER BENDER

Abrand Jeans I1

apparelmagazine.co.nz

FASHIONABLE

EDITOR’S letter

READS

Swipe to buy

THE left and right swiping phenomenon that drew over 50 million people into popular dating app Tinder, has now made its way into the fashion world. Western culture has been accustomed to the left to right movements for decades with fight scenes in movies moving from left to right, reading left to right and envisioning the life cycle go from a baby on the far left to an old woman on the right, so it was only a matter of time before the fashion industry caught onto the pattern to cash in.

‘Liking’ someone on Tinder illustrates the modern world of technology and mobile phone habits as it feels natural to swipe left to right and is based on pleasant experiences. How we make decisions is similar and can be applied to how consumers shop. Retailers are looking into m-commerce as the next horizon, and despite the uptake on e-commerce was slow, the m-commerce uptake is accelerating at a rapid pace.

An initiative that took on the swiping action is London-based fashion site Styloko, a fashion discovery app that is part of its self-styled ‘multi-device shopping strategy’. Customers can pick up shopping or browsing where they left off, no matter whether it was earlier that day, week or month across any device.

The consumer doesn’t have to go through selections to describe her shopping pursuit; it is simply done through swiping fashion products that look similar. In swiping left or right, the app can start to analyse the consumer’s preferences and immediately personalises the experience.

“The reality of our modern lives is that

the NUMBERS . . .

we are now on mobile for more than half of our days,” said Shannon Edwards, Styloko CEO. “So a mobile experience needs to reflect our on-the-go lifestyle and we do this with a simple interface to save products to consider later.”

Ometria is an e-commerce analytics startup that was founded in 2013, that offers online retailers a business model that increases customer value over time as well as revenue. “Innovative user interfaces, such as Tinderstyle swipe functionality, are much more than just an addictive way of engaging users,” said Ivan Mazour, CEO Ometria. “Underneath the slick experience, they are a way of collecting vital data from customers. This data helps companies build up an interest graph for each customer and shows each one of them only the most relevant products.”

An interactive swiping screen experience looks to be the future of m-commerce.

Sarah

sarah@reviewmags.com

Menswear Dog Presents the New Classics: Fresh Looks for the Modern Man

by DAVID FUNG AND YENA KIM The Internet’s most stylish canine celebrity is New York based Shiba Inu Bodhi. Bodhi has his own capsule collection for Menswear Daily and has modelled for the likes of Coach, American Apparel, Brooks Brothers and Salvatore Ferragamo, for which his owners David Fung and Yena Kim earn more than US$15,000 a month. Listen to the world’s most stylish dog’s fashion secrets and be amused by his posing.

ON THE COVER:

A YEAR IN SALES For the March 15 quarter, compared with March 14 quarter: Total retail sales volumes rose

7.4

%

Fashion Is Spinach: How to Beat the Fashion Racket

by ELIZABETH HAWES After working as a stylist in Paris, Elizabeth Hawes launched one of the first American design houses in depression-era New York. Ahead of her time and an outspoken critic of the fashion industry, Hawes’ witty memoir offers an insider’s critique of the fashion scene during the 1920s and 30s, as well as today.

Clothing, footwear and accessories sales % volumes were higher

4.1 SOURCE: The Big 5 Trends for Fall 2015, EDITD

Sales values were 2.9% higher

PUBLISHER Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com EDITOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com MANAGING DIRECTOR Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com SALES & EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Jessica-Belle Greer - jessica@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL ASSITANT Thomas Fowler - tommie@reviewmags.com

Sarah Stanford

ADVERTISING SALES SENIOR DESIGNER

Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com

2 I June 2015

PHOTOGRAPHER CIRCULATION/ADMIN

Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com

ISSN 1171-2287

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2015 NZ Apparel Magazine.

1950s Fashion: Artist’s Colouring Book

by PEPIN VAN ROOJEN From one of the best paper mills in Europe, this colouring book is good enough for masterpieces.

16 sheets of superior acid-free drawing paper are printed with exceptional fashion designs in very light lines. The original guide will be hardly visible once complete.

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news

SEARCH FOR DESIGN STAR

BROTHER Design Stars is once again on the hunt for the next big fashion and craft superstars.

Now in its second year, the competition encourages youth in school years 7 to 13 to enter one of two award categories for a chance to share over $30,000 in prizes.

This year’s theme is “Identity” where students are to create something that best shows how they are unique and special.

Entrants in the fashion award category must create a ready-to-wear fashion item or outfit that showcases their identity. Registrations open Monday 29 June and close Friday 21 August. Entrants must register online at www.brotherdesignstars.co.nz.

DRESS FOR SUCCESS CAMPAIGN

GLOBAL charity Dress for Success is to launch its Random Act of Likeness campaign in July this year. The campaign aims to spread messages of positivity and raise funds for the important work the charity does. The campaign will see a ‘Like Card’ become available on its Facebook page for users to share, either on their own news feed or on their friends’ walls.

For every ‘like’ corporate partners will donate dollar for like to Dress for Success. The charity provides a wraparound, multi-programmed service.

They help women in need enter/return to the workforce and support them in their job search.

Once employed, Dress for Success equips them with job retention and leadership skills.

DEADLY PONIES LAUNCH MEN’S COLLECTION

DEADLY Ponies has launched its debut men’s collection that boasts effortless simplicity, sleek design and timeless appeal.

The launch sees four classic designs that charmingly speak to the boy inside every man, each style named after a beloved comic hero. The Comet Satchel, professional, yet relaxed, sits alongside the Zorro Briefcase and the Phantom Duffle, both modern interpretations of traditional menswear staples.

Ranger Rucksack completes the collection as a distinctive overnight bag that encapsulates the Deadly Ponies aesthetic.

“I set about designing a men’s range knowing the expectations would be high. The result is a collection that balances the needs of a classic Australasian guy with refined European styling,” said creative director Liam Bowden. The Deadly Ponies Men’s collection is Parisian elegance meets New York cool, delivering the ultimate bag for the every man.

HUMPHRIES TO LEAVE PUMPKIN PATCH

DI Humphries, Pumpkin Patch CEO is to leave the troubled children’s clothing retailer in November following the board’s decision to knuckle down on lifting business performance rather than accepting substandard purchase offers.

Since taking over from former CEO Neil Cowie in August 2013, Humphries has seen a dramatically changing retail environment in which the retailer has struggled to remain relevant. Chairman Peter Schuyt acknowledged the progress she has achieved, and said in a statement that Humphries joined a company that needed, and still needs major changes across all parts of the business.

Pumpkin Patch board is currently seeking a new CEO.

4 I June 2015

CROCS SELL OUT

THE Crocs that Prince George wore during an outing at the Beaufort Polo Club have sold out. The often brightly coloured foam footwear that most hate, are set to become the shoe of summer with thanks to the young royal.

After the birth of his younger sister, Princess Charlotte, the new royal style icon has been spotted in several high street outfits and accessories that have taken less than a day to sell out online.

Let us help you make the best match.

Call JACQUI 09 309 5020 or visit www.nzfashiontech.ac.nz

news

FITZGIBBONS AMBASSADOR FOR PIPING HOT

GLOBALLY recognised surf champion Sally Fitzgibbons has been announced as the official ambassador for the Piping Hot brand. Through this partnership, the newly crowned Fiji Pro champion will become the global spokesperson for Piping Hot and appear as the face of the brand’s upcoming marketing and publicity campaigns. “Sally is the perfect ambassador for Piping Hot, one of the most successful surf brands in Australia,” said managing director of Saban Brands Lifestyle Group, Dan Castle.

“The brand, which is celebrating its 40th anniversary this year, is rooted in competitive surfing and with Sally’s passion, dedication, and talent, she is a true reflection of the brand’s essence.”

JEANS A GOOD FIT

ABRAND Jeans are for the people. This philosophy stems from the idea of bringing the focus back to lifestyle while offering premium on trend quality denim at affordable prices. Abrand clothing consists of the best denim essentials including skinny to slim-straight fits with black wefts and modern detailing and trims.

The range is curated as a result of research and sets out to deliver the best jeans on the market within the targeted demographic.

Contact: Threebyone Nz Lp for all sales enquiries Email: denimdepartment@yahoo.co.nz Ph: +64 9 849 4585.

SGC OPENS IN NEWMARKET

NEW Zealand brand Stolen Girlfriends Club has opened the doors of its first flagship store in Nuffield Street, Newmarket. Working with the renowned Fearon Hay architects, the brand has created a timeless store concept that stays true to its rock and roll aesthetic. The materials and colour palette chosen work to complement the garments and act as a striking backdrop to the brand’s seasonal prints.

With jewellery being a key offering for SGC, the new store features a jewellery cabinet that runs down the middle of the store, lit with neon. Steel plinths house the brand’s eyewear offering and there is a complete shelved section for Stolen’s new denim collection. “Opening our first flagship store in Newmarket is a seriously positive step for our brand and the business,” said Marc Moore.

MIROMODA MOVES TO HAMILTON

FOR the past six years the Miromoda Design Fashion Competition has been held in Wellington, but this year it will take place at the Novotel Tainui, Hamilton. The judging will coincide with celebrations to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the Waikato-Tainui treaty settlement signing. “Miromoda is a celebration of Maori Fashion, innovation and success. Both events give us the opportunity to align with a celebration of Waikato women, something we are proud to be involved with,” said Waikato Raupatu Lands Trust Chief Executive, Parekawhia McLean. Formed in 2008, Miromoda has grown to be the largest celebration of Maori fashion design in New Zealand and is a closely followed fashion show each year at New Zealand Fashion Week. “The number and calibre of entrants continues to increase, with diversity emerging as a common thread this year. We have shortlisted 20 designers who will present their collection to a panel of judges, headed by fashion icon Dame Pieter Stewart,” said Miromoda Event Manager, Montess Hughes.

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6 I June 2015

news

SEAN KELLY TO SHOW AT NZFW

SHOOTING to fame after winning the 13th season of Project Runway, kiwi designer Sean Kelly is set to return and show at New Zealand Fashion Week this year.

Kelly is the first New Zealand designer to win the competition and has had massive success in New York following the win. “Sean is a very exciting designer who has proved himself in a short space of time in a highly competitive market. His NZFW show will no doubt be a big draw card for the week,” said Dame Pieter Stewart.

The collection will feature 20 looks, available to purchase via private order, with a smaller capsule collection being sold online.

“Having volunteered at NZFW in 2001 it’s now incredibly exciting to be part of such an important event with my own show,” said Kelly.

Alongside the competition prizes, Kelly has had a series of successes abroad and is sure to bring a new and fresh perspective to New Zealand Fashion Week. NZFW will run from 24 to 30 August at the ANZ Viaducts Event Centre in Auckland.

TAYLOR X ISBIM

DESIGNER Vicki Taylor of taylor and Ponsonby store The Shelter has collaborated with Korean based design company ISBIM to create a collection of casual essentials at good price points.

The range is thoughtfully designed, meticulously cut and features a range of interesting shapes, a unique take on hardworking basics. “We all need a good stable of cotton pieces, these form the backbone of every wardrobe,” said Taylor.

“We felt that we could create a range that still provided all the functionality, but with a twist.” The range includes some of taylor’s trademark styling such as the long back tails that appear on the Tailed Top, in high quality soft 100 percent cotton knit.

NEW STORE FOR SCARPA

NEW Zealand footwear retailer Scarpa has opened a new store in the luxury brand precinct of Queen Street in Auckland.

“It seemed fitting that after 12 years in Chancery Square that Scarpa moved its CBD offering to Queens Arcade to join brands like Gucci and Dior at Auckland’s lower Queen Street,” said Kiwi owner, John Upton.

“The ambition for the new store was straightforward. We knew we wanted the store to feel like a luxury oasis space that could make our customers instantly feel good when they walk in the door.”

Two existing tenancies were joined together to create the space situated at the entrance to Queens Arcade. Feedback of the new store has been positive.

TAUPO RETAIL BOOM

CBRE Retail Services have been appointed to promote plans for an inner city retail precinct in Taupo. Lincraft, an Australian craft and home furnishing store is set to move into a 1500sqm site in the Totora Point retail centre. After opening its first NZ store in the South Island during 2011 the retailer has grown to over 70 stores throughout Australasia.

NZ chain K&K Fashion, will also join the new line up at a site that was formerly occupied by Hillary Fashions. CBRE Retail Services is looking to take on retail brands into new floor space that has been built in the Victoria retail complex, which is anchored by the Farmers department store.

Contact us now to discuss your needs.

Phone: +64 9 255 2560 I Mobile: 021 769 560 Email: john@dsl.co.nz I www.dsl.co.nz apparelmagazine.co.nz

I7

news

ZAMBESI SS15 LAUNCH

ZAMBESI have launched the Spring/Summer collection for men and women this month in a range that unites divergent design principles.

Within the elements of minimalist design, a vital energy comes out to play. The avant-garde runs alongside reborn classics with oversized pieces allowing experimentation with silhouettes. Pure Japanese cottons and sportswear fabrics are used unexpectedly in tailored garments, subtly referencing the uniform.

The Zambesi Outfitters archival 90’s logo is flocked onto fronts and backs of garments in eyelet and lining to give a ‘team logo’ feel.

Functional and minimal in its simplicity, the collection unifies a passion for fabric with texture and form, and stays true to the ever-evolving nature of the brand, proudly Made in New Zealand.

TRISH PENG OPENS POP UP

AFTER a successful pop-up store in Parnell, designer Trish Peng has opened a second in Ponsonby that will stock her Autumn/Winter collection and allow customers to pre-order her Spring/Summer collection.

The store will be open until early July and is located in the popular Ponsonby Central district.

DAVID JONES HEADS FOR NZ

AUSTRALIA’S oldest department store David Jones is set to make its first venture into New Zealand. Taking over the lease of ailed local stalwart Kirkcaldie & Stains, the retailer will open an upmarket department store in Wellington.

Doors to the unprofitable retailer will close in February with it reopening as David Jones by mid 2016.

Just twelve months after South African retailer Woolworths took over the department store chain, this move offshore will be a first for the company and its 177-year history.

The company also own Country Road, Witchery, Trenery and Mimco and have plans to become the biggest retailer in the southern hemisphere.

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footwear news

BARBIE IN FLATS

FOR the first time in 56 years, toymaker Mattel has produced a line of Barbie dolls with flat shoes to accommodate the new street style fashion range.

The flats are just another element in the diversification of Barbie, which now includes 14 different facial looks, eight skin tones, 18 eye colours, 22 hair styles and 23 hair colours. Barbie has been permanently on her tiptoes since her inception in 1959, and is expected to embrace an increasingly diverse style.

ADIDAS LOOKS INTO AUTOMATED MANUFACTURING

IN an effort to reduce costs and move its production back to Germany, Adidas is working with government, academics and leading robotics engineers to develop new production technology to transition from cheap Asian labour to fully automated robotic production. The decision is one in the many new investments Adidas has incorporated to regain its market share in athletic footwear, which has become increasingly dominated by competitor Nike. “We will bring production back to where the main markets are. We will be the leader and the first mover there,” said Adidas chief executive, Herbert Hainer.

RIVERS AUSTRALIA DETERMINED TO GROW

FOLLOWING its acquisition in 2013, Ballarat-based footwear retailer, Rivers Australia has said they are confident for future company growth.

“When acquired, Rivers was a business that had been adversely affected by aggressive discounting, excessive marketing expenditure and significant levels of inventory accumulation,” said Specialty Fashion Group chief executive, Gary Pealstein. However, unmet profit expectations have led to 15 job cuts to its finance and IT divisions at its distribution centre in May. During the time of acquisition, no immediate redundancies were expected, but it has become clear that restructuring is nessisarry for the continued operation of Rivers Australia.

“Given Specialty Fashion Group’s track record of acquiring brands and delivering operational improvements, we are confident that we will be successful in rebuilding and integrating the operations of Rivers’ brand into the broader business,” said Pealstein.

MINNIE COOPER TO RETAIL ONLINE ONLY

AFTER already closing its Christchurch store in January last year, boutique kiwi footwear store, Minnie Cooper has made the decision to close all physical stores and retail online only. Owner Sandy Cooper chalked up the decision due to increased exchange rates, high overheads and international competition from similar ecommerce companies. She said she was not happy to see her stores switch to online only, but the market has become impossible for her business to maintain a physical presence. “I just thought it was too dangerous to sign my leases and sign up for another four years. I thought no, the time’s come to pull the pin,” she said. Cooper will shut her Wellington store mid-July, followed by the Auckland store by the end of September.

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I9

trendWATCH

inDETAIL

DYSTOPIAN DESIGN The influx of dystopian themes hasn’t been exclusive to the big screen, with designers across the world taking inspiration from the grunge influenced end-of-world style.

COSTUME designers from films like Mad Max and Oblivion have crafted a dark and rugged picture of what fashion looks like in the future, which has translated onto the runways these past seasons. Not limited to high-end labels however, small artisan brands are also getting on board and experiencing increased demand for their specific representation of apocalypse design.

Key elements include the creative experimentation with textiles, incorporating non-traditional materials and exploring the capabilities of a world without colour.

Australian designer Carol Christian Poell has seen great success in this growing trend. From his latex dipped kangaroo-leather sneakers through

to the titanium inserts on the jacket sleeve slips, enforcing the common utilitarian armour aesthetic associated with dystopian fashion.

High-end brands like Alexander McQueen and Rag & Bone experimented heavily with elements of distressed leather and latex whilst producing heavily masculine shapes that incorporated militant detailing.

The overarching effect is that of a militia uniform consisting of hard wearing textiles in sombre tones, as if the clothes were part of an exoskeleton designed to protect the wearer from the world as it has become, much like that of the characters inhabiting the barren earth in Oblivion.

Unlike futuristic trends of metallic and reflective textiles, the dystopian fashion movement is raw, detail oriented and sophisticatedly functional, putting it ahead of the others in its ultimately realistic approach to dressing for the harsh end-of-world environment.

accessoryALERT

LITTLE GHOST

Packed with sophistication Little Ghost handbags, wallets and accessories are handcrafted with just the right balance of edgy and nice. The brand’s debut collection titled The Kingdom of Hera is goddess inspired. Four wallets, two clutches and two handbags are shrouded in high quality embellishments and lined with leather.

Little Ghost founder and designer, Amber Bibby, combined her complimentary skills to bring the collection to light.

“This is my passion – the make up artist in me loves to play with colour different from what you’d typically see in shops. The fashion designer in me loves fabric, texture and balance. The businesswoman in me has meant that I’ve been able to find the most ethical, likeminded and effective partners to bring this dream to life,” said Bibby.

The colourful collection has been years in the making, however the surpassing collections will follow in quick succession with more unique ranges planned for the coming months.

10 I June 2015

KETZ-KE

SPRING 15 COLOUR ME BAD

THE first gust of spring brings with it the latest Ketz-ke collection, Colour Me Bad. Urban stripes, modern polka dots, bohemian florals and gingham created out of popping primary colours inject the collection with a distinctly spring playful attitude. The model moves and prances in each piece throughout the lookbook, embodying the light and fun nature of this season’s design.

Tops are relaxed and designed to pair with an array of gorgeous pants and skirts – from slim to slouchy, there’s a

piece for everybody.

The iconic Ketz-ke bag is back this season, adorned with drawstring and fringe details, made for the laid back casual girl, perfectly paired with cotton scarves that wrap loosely around the neck.

Collectively the range challenges wearers to be bold and experiment with colour, of which there is an abundance.

All else put aside, Ketz-ke perfectly summarise the collection with one swift line. All you need this season is bucket loads of attitude.

behind the business

AUS & NZ RETAILERS:

Why are they behind the ecommerce curve?

AUSTRALIAN and New Zealand retail has had it tough of late. Once mighty brands have even been brought to the brink by competition from overseas retailers as Australians buy products online more cheaply from abroad.

Overseas online retailers have introduced cheaper brands to the market, and often provide discounts on the exact same brands as supplied by local retailers too. Shamefully, there are some well publicized cases of products being delivered to the customer faster from overseas retailers than they can from domestic ones too.

From what I’ve seen there aren’t many companies ahead of the curve. But how is this possible? And why aren’t onshore retailers faster to react?

I think there are three distinct reasons. Firstly, Australia & NZ are fundamentally conservative countries. No one likes to be first at anything. Up until five years ago this was a moated economy, and new brand entrants into the market were few and far between. In most cases senior management in retail had been entrenched for many years and many of them were old school rag traders.

With this entrenchment comes fear; if I change but it doesn’t work I’m sacked!

The safest activity politically is no activity at all.

Secondly there has been a lack of investment in technology for many years in the region. There are very few of the old guard retailers that ever really understood systems and therefore it’s better to just work with what you have than attempt to innovate.

This has caught many retailers with their pants down with the level of competition online from overseas. Most domestic retailers that I am aware of cannot support click & collect or any other store‐related innovations without a major change project that involves a heavy time and cost investment.

Lastly there is a major skills gap in the multichannel space. If you want to grow

your online business and leapfrog the overseas competition there are sadly not enough strong traders out in the market to meet demand. Cue the influx of English ecommerce experts please!

While Australian retailers are enjoying a bit of relief through the weak Aussie dollar, NZ retailers are going the opposite way. The Kiwi has surged of late against the Aussie dollar and this will only help overseas markets including Australia see an increase in activity from NZ consumers. The only respite on the horizon is the declining Australian dollar. This may help stave off some of the overseas competition as prices domestically become more competitive however this is not the final solution.

The right way to do it is to have a realistic long term plan. Not a desire to perform one activity (such as click & collect). My advice to New Zealand retailers is you need to engage the experts, make informed decisions and do it quickly.

Those that dither and band aid the problems will eventually find that they are catastrophically behind the curve. In todays frenetic pace of innovation that condition is often terminal.

To discuss how Practicology’s ecommerce expertise and knowledge of the New Zealand market could help your business, please email: Chris@practicology.com

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I 11

editd

FALL 2015 MENSWEAR THEMES AND TRENDS

By Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITD

THE menswear shows for Fall 2015 have drawn to a close, and we have been working through the looks to identify 5 most promising product trends for the next season. To help brands and retailers understand the key themes, product trends and colors, we’ve combined menswear runway analysis with commercial data on what’s selling and what’s not.

1. OUTERWEAR Statement outerwear was a major theme at the menswear shows, from the luxurious, shaggy furs at Lanvin, MSGM and Dunhill, to the puffed up and sleek quilted shapes at Paul Smith, Christopher Shannon and Alexander McQueen. Really, anything goes here, including matt black leather suggesting a gothic theme, techy rainwear, the popular parka and longline greatcoats. Capes even snuck in at Sacai, Christopher Lemaire and Valentino. Curly sheepskins and outlandish colors were popular, and retailers should pay close attention to the details: pockets, zips, drawstrings, toggles and patched leather all give beauty to the functional.

Why it works now:

The 1970s referencing, which has been backed wholeheartedly by the womenswear industry, is now a big hit for menswear. For Fall 2015, take your pick from Woodstock bohemia or rock ‘n’ roll glamour.

Key aspects of the trend are an era-accurate palette of browns, maroons, mustards, oranges and emeralds as well as checked and paisley prints. Velvet, which came through as a key fabric for the new season designers worked into narrow-fit suits. Gucci, John Varvatos, Etro, Saint Laurent and Topman Designs are your goto guys for this trend.

Increasingly, the men’s and women’s apparel industries are moving in sync. With the 70s trend steeped for commercial success in womenswear for SS15, designers are sure to continue backing it for Fall. Menswear has reacted accordingly, working in the seasonal variations of velvet, shaggy furs and roll neck knits. Brands and retailers also know that texture and print sell well online – the 1970s trend feeds into that perfectly. Gender play within the industry will create even greater blurring between men’s and women’s trends in seasons to come.

Retailers rejoice! The bomber jacket will live on into Fall 2015, be it with an aviation twist, or in camo print. The military trend seen on the runways of Calvin Klein, 3.1 Philip Lim and Coach references the 40s, as well as 90s streetwear and propels roll neck tops, army issue plain sweaters, parkas and acres and acres of green into the new season.

Why it works now:

2. 1970S

Teddy Boy is the vessel on which to carry the wider legwear forms forward – brands and retailers will get behind this to invigorate the bottoms category, which has become stagnant. While the 1970s and military trend speak to casual dress codes, Teddy Boy is Fall 2015’s opportunity to tick evening and workwear occasions with a trend update without being overly ornate, which doesn’t feel relevant right now.

5. DENIM Denim is everywhere. This year sees an overhaul of the workwear fabric in both menswear and womenswear. On the Fall 2015 menswear runway the key aspects were all-over-looks, (a sort of doubledenim, but in one shade), a rejection of skinny jeans for looser forms, turned-up legs and denim paired with shearling. While all washes were evidenced on the runway, the stand out shade was the deep blue.

Use denim in unexpected ways to delight consumers – in outerwear or in usually formal garments.

Why it works now:

In the current uncertain political climate, the response has been fight (military) or flight (70s bohemia). Contrast panelling, patch pockets and plain-colored cable knit sweaters have been selling fantastically well for the last four menswear seasons – finally they now have a greater trend story to tie into, meaning retailers can better merchandise these popular items.

4. TEDDY BOY The market is moving away from the now saturated skinny jeans towards wider legwear. This came through in the 50s referencing Teddy Boy trend with relaxed tailoring suggesting a insouciance and sartorial elegance. Self-assured models wore doublebreasted suits with higher waist pants than we’ve seen in menswear recently. Prince of Wales checks, trouser turn-ups and a palette of navy, cobalt, gray and stone were all notable aspects of this trend backed by Dior,

12 I June 2015

Why it works now:

Why it works now:

3. MILITARY

Parkas sold fantastically well for retailers including ASOS, Banana Republic, H&M and Topman during Fall 2014 – consumers love the ease of the shape and the casual look. The number of parkas on the market for Fall 2014 rose by 245% compared to Fall 2013.

For Fall 2015, retailers can entice spend by moving away from the traditional palette of black and khaki, experimenting instead with stronger hues and print.

Designers can differentiate with luxurious fur trims.

Quilted and puffer coats have also been a big hit with consumers – Uniqlo have lifted the credentials of warm layering at affordable prices with their incredibly successful ultra light down pieces, and other retailers are catching on. There was a 118% increase in quilted and puffer outerwear pieces for Fall 2014. For Fall 2015, retailers should play with volume, color and print – Barbour’s camouflage pieces will be popular.

Prada, Paul Smith and Dries Van Noten.

Workplaces and lifestyles have become more casual, and more athletic. The sports luxe trend may have reached its capacity – consumers already have got their fill of jogging bottoms and sweaters. While those garments won’t disappear from the trend radar, brands and retailers will seek newness through an invigorated denim category. You can read more about this in our next report, Denim Retail in 2015.

behind the business

Head to Melbourne during the biggest fashion buying seasons of the year

2015 has already proved to be an iconic season for the fashion industry, with major fashion houses and designers causing more noise than ever before.

AT the recent celebratory Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia (MBFWA) 20 Year Anniversary, Australia’s finest fashion designers were launched on a global level.

Infamous hot-spots throughout Sydney including Bondi Icebergs and the Art Gallery of NSW hosted an array of premier runway shows, and thanks to the power of social media, the world had front row seats.

As soon as well-regarded Australian label Ellery opened the week, some of the industry’s biggest fashion players were readily sharing the hottest looks from the front row as fast as they hit the runway. Tweets, Snap Chat stories, Instagram shots, instant blog features – the online community was awash with updates, highlights and exclusive behind the scenes shots, with industry insiders competing to be the first to reveal the latest trends that the industry has to offer.

This huge rise in social sharing has given industry outsiders red-hot access to what used to be previously exclusive information that only the most prestige of fashionistas would have previously had.

According to Business of Fashion feature writer, Robin Mellot-Pratt, major fashion houses are also generating additional media coverage outside of the traditional Fashion Weeks, by “staging increasingly elaborate in shows off-piste locations”.

As trend knowledge and industry news is becoming readily available, so are the high-end collections. Industry heavyweights are collaborating with high-street brands to release capsule collections all over Australia and New Zealand, bringing the high-street consumer a cut-price taste of high-fashion. Most recently, Australian designer Dion Lee has announced a one-off womenswear capsule collection across 35 Target Stores.

With such an advance in trend knowledge and noise, it’s not surprising that the Statistics New Zealand Tatauranga Aotearoa reported the clothing, footwear and accessory retail industry saw a 4.4% increase in sales, valued at $36 million during the December quarter. And these promising statistics are not alone. Roy Morgan’s Research reports that in an average 4 week period, one in four Australian’s aged 14+ makes a purchase from a clothing store. That’s more than 4.7 million people.

So what do these advances in the industry mean for the fashion industry as a whole?

With a rapidly changing market, it is more pertinent than ever before for independent fashion retailers in New Zealand and Australia to keep up with the rapidly changing market, remain on top of the trends and satisfy consumer expectations and demand.

As we transcend into a new season known to be tough to get right, independent retailers need to source the hottest trends on the market and redefine their competitive advantage.

AW 15/16 TRENDS According to global trend forecasters, WGSN, AW 15/16 will have you transitioning into the cooler months in serious style. Constantly evolving through designer inspirations and consumer input, AW 15/16 continues to reinvent, break traditional boundaries by bringing colour combinations, textures and silhouettes together. As for the key colours, the colours and tones for the season are warm and rich. Think deep cranberry, red wine and warm oranges. Cognac will feature heavily in leather and silk pieces and camel is predicted to be huge with overcoats and suiting.

Indigo dyes and blue hues will continue for the

season which coincides with the Australian market.

WGSN INstock statistics show 33% of stock selling in Australian retail are blue, a 10% increase from last year. From greyed off pastels to bold teal, cobalt, petrol and inky blues, blue is set to stay.

According to senior womenswear buyer, lecturer and key note speaker Lauren Jones, you can wear this look in so many ways. “Add a cobalt accessory, layer a navy blazer or add a washed back pair of flares to your current wardrobe, but those on point are largely wearing the tone head to toe”.

WOMENSWEAR WGSN reported that three key looks will feature throughout AW 15/16 including, Folkloric, Winter Tribal and Dark Romance. Folkloric inspired collections with bold designs, thick overcoats, shearling sleeves and rich embroideries are set to be big next season with fine detail including fringing, wraps and ties featuring heavily.

The Winter Tribal look brings together chunky knits together with ponchos, blanket wraps with tailored, outerwear pieces. Sleeveless capes in camel tones, long maxi skirts and moccasins will be key pieces for this trend. The Dark Romantic trend is exactly how it sounds – dark and romantic with a gamine edge. High neck collars, tunics and tabards, peter pan collars and sheer dresses detailed with delicate lace and beading are all key pieces.

MENSWEAR So much is happening in Menswear style.

Men continue to grow in confidence and stature when it comes to the way they relate to style and sophistication. AW 15/16 will feature softer silhouettes and daring head to toe colour. According to WGSN, two of the biggest looks for the season include the sports luxe and the new traditional look.

It’s not surprising that the sports luxe is set to be huge, with WGSN reporting that 15% of fashion sales worldwide are within the sports fashion category.

Brought on by clean eating and healthy living, this unisex trend encourages a gym to street fashion feel.

Think smart jogger pants with a padded jacket or gilet. Or relaxed slouch pants with a slogan loose tee.

Make it work for the gym and the street and you have this look covered. The new traditional look features heavy mid layering, with new city coats, longer hemlines and cropped trousers paired with white

socks being the key components of this look. Over shirts will also feature heavily, with dark checks and bold patterns being as a must.

ACCESSORIES Since layering features heavily within both womenswear and menswear looks in AW 15/16, statement accessory pieces are integral.

The shoes suggested for the season include peep toe boots, 70’s inspired high boots, relaxed loafers, laced ballet flats, clogs and slip on runners. Dependent on the shoe, team it with a tassel clutch, structured portfolio bag or box shoulder bag and you will be right on trend. Beret’s, long thin scarves and modernist single earrings are all key pieces and with these, you can elevate any outfit.

KIDS For AW 15/16 florals will be headlining the category – from 60’s floral to folk florals with a woodland twist, this look will be huge.

DESTINATION MELBOURNE In August, Melbourne will be playing host to a number of Australia’s top fashion labels at the biannual Home & Giving + Fashion Fair. FASHION EXPOSED REVIVED organiser Australian Gift & Homewares Association (AGHA), are partnering with Home & Giving Fair to bring you the Home & Giving + Fashion Fair, 1-5 August 2015.

Timed during one of the largest buying cycles of the year, fashion buyers will head to Melbourne with an eye to cracking the Australian Market. Homed in the style capital, buyers will enjoy the charm of the city whilst discovering the latest trends that the market has to offer.

Trade shows offer fashion buyers the opportunity to see multiple suppliers and create the looks suitable for your customers. With so many garments available online, the opportunity to see the quality of a product, what it actually looks like and sizes is scarce.

Combine that with a heightened knowledge of social media and online platforms to stay connected and on trend, you have two key elements needed in the fashion buying business in Australia.

For more information on registering to attend Home & Giving + Fashion Fair, visit the new look website homeandgiving.com.

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View these brands and more on ApparelBuyersLounge.com

HANNAH CLAIRE

FOLLOWING on from a jewellery range, Hannah Claire’s first clothing collection launched in Summer 2013 at Wanderer, The Tannery. The cheeky and charming brand has evolved further to include a bridesmaid collection. Founder Hannah Claire Rutherford is a Massey graduate inspired by the increasing requests for custom bridesmaid dresses and the lack of affordable options in Christchurch. Steering clear of the stereotypical, the bridesmaid collection falls within the range of occasionwear to ensure value for money. With a modern mindset, Rutherford has introduced varying price points in the collection through the use of different fabrics. Silk at a higher price point or polyester at a lower price point can be chosen by customers or stockists.

The silhouettes, in a choice of colours, are simple and flattering, and are able to be stocked in established retailers or tweaked for each special customer. Recognising that weddings are an occasion where word of mouth marketing is most effective Rutherford creates connections with her customer whilst also focusing on stylish social media to increase brand awareness.

Hannah Claire is looking to increase stockists for the main line and bridesmaid collection. For more information, email Hannahclairenz@gmail.com.

MALOLA SWIM

LAUREN Holehouse is an AUT fashion graduate who started her own brand after gaining interest in her final collection. What made her collection unique to other students? It was swimwear. Holehouse detected a lull in the New Zealand market for exciting swimwear, flattering with a unique flair. Unlike your typical, more conservative styles Malola swimwear is bold, vibrant and fun, experimenting with the classic Brazilian fit.

Each garment is reversible, covered in custom prints and crafted with handmade fastenings. Holehouse encourages customers to mix and match Malola Swim and alter straps to find their own style.

Holehouse’s Grandma owned Uniform Update and she grew up watching her grandma, mother and aunty throughout the production process. Growing up near the coast also inspired Holehouse towards creating her own label.

The original swimwear currently sells online. After a successful crowd sourcing campaign with Spark My Potential Holehouse will launch her second collection before summer ‘15 and she hopes to start wholesaling with this collection.

To find out more, email hello@malolaswim.com.

OUR SONS AND CO

HEAPS CHOICE

AFTER breaking his leg in two places Cam Low kept sane by knitting through his recovery. Turning a ball of wool into a beanie helped Low feel he was achieving something and as a competitive person he wanted to better each beanie until he had enough to start a brand. Low is completing marine studies at the Bay of Plenty Polytechnic where he pursues his passion of the ocean. Fittingly, Heaps Choice is a colourful beanie brand with a beach vibe. Interested in streetwear, Low also recycles denim shorts, singlets and tees from opportunity shops during summer. Low enjoys working with customers to customise his beanies but he is also looking into wholesaling. To find out more, email heaps.choice.nz@gmail.com.

14 I June 2015

DESIGNERS and co-owners of Our Sons and Co, Sheena Lu and Haley Johnson, share a love of childrenswear. When the two mothers could not find cool clothes for their sons they combined their passion to create unique and original garments.

With a background in oral health and territory management respectively, Lu and Johnson have leaped into fashion with their own little sons cheering them on. The brand is designed for two to six year olds and all designs are unisex.

Our Sons and Co plan to produce more original pieces and increase supply, with the aim to be stocked in a range of childrens clothing stores worldwide. To find out more, contact oursonsandco@gmail.com.

MUSHAMA & ME

CUSHLA AND CO

SISTERS Rebecca Eddowes and Susie Palmer had always talked about starting a business together. Candles are a common interest of the now directors so they set about researching, learning, experimenting and perfecting their candle making skills. The boutique candles are produced in small batches ensuring that they are of the highest quality.

Via word of mouth and social media Cushla and Co now supply a local beauty therapist and a local gift shop.

The business is named after their grandmother, Cushla, who was a special inspiration to their family. A wide range of scents is imperative to Cushla and Co’s personal fragrances and Eddowes and Palmer continue to experiment by blending fragrances. With the onset of winter, warm spicy fragrances, such as Spicy Havana and Ylang Ylang, are “hot sellers”, however all time Cushla and Co favourites are French Pear and Peony Rose.

The carefully chosen fragrances are set in both tea lights and glass jars. Cushla and Co use the finest soy wax and hand picked fragrances to complement unique living spaces and lifestyles. Importantly, each candle is eco-friendly, slow burning and non-toxic. In the near future the sisters plan to sell at markets and find new stockists. For more information, email cushlaandco@gmail.com.

‘MUSHAMA’ means raincoat in Albanian, a word picked up on founder Sharn Blackwell’s travels around Eurpoe. Blackwell bought fabric for her first raincoat in Albania, knowing she was about to move to the wet urban city of Amsterdam. When away from home, Blackwell learnt that as the rain falls, so can spirits but a colourful raincoat brings life and character back to dull days.

Blackwell studied fashion design at Otago Polytech and worked for a range of fashion labels including Carla Zampatti. As a part-time venture Mushama & Me raincoats are clean and simple with innovative textiles creating a colourful difference. Fabrics are rescued from local second hand shops and range from sheets, duvets, curtains and more. A technical waterproofing process leaves the fabric 100% windproof and waterproof to create both unique and eco-conscious rainwear.

The range includes five different womens raincoat styles, as well as kids, bibs and bike seat covers. Mushama & Me’s next venture is mens raincoats. For more information, email hello@mushamaandme.com

PLOM&BALLE BOUVERIE & CO

RANDALL Bouverie was a full time model for 62 Models and part-time screen printer for local brands in New Zealand before he started Bouverie & Co. Seeing a lack in the market for simplicity Bouverie decided to create a casual t-shirt that could also be worn out to events. To achieve this garments are sourced locally and screen printed in-house.

Since inception, Bouverie & Co keeps lines simple and colours basic to catch the attention of a wider market. Still interested in campaigns, Bouverie believes the whole feeling of the brand should be portrayed through the photography each time a new season comes out.

“My goals for my brand are to grow and bring out a new feel for printed clothing in the industry,” said Bouverie. Bouverie & Co is looking to increase direct and wholesale distribution. For more information, email info@bouverieandco.com

EMMA Plom and Olivia Balle were captivated by screen printing when they met at university. Both with art backgrounds, and now in their third year at textile design, plom&balle use hand drawn imagery to create a sense of individuality in their designs.

Focusing on the printed long sleeve trend, the friends screen printed a unique alien design for their own wear but the design soon took off.

“We were over the moon and shocked with the positive response which has now expanded to us forming the brand plom&balle,” said the co-founders.

The edgy street wear brand appeals to confident and quirky individuals with graphics combining spaceships, regal aliens and more. Social media is plom&balle’s main point of contact with consumers and positive responses from consumers and friends drive the brand forward.

In the near future plom&balle will have a collective stance. As Emma and Olivia enter their final honors collection, more textile design processes will be incorporated in their designs. For more information, contact plomandballe@outlook.com.

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colour trending

IN AN INDUSTRY THAT CAN OFTEN TAKE ITSELF TOO SERIOUSLY, IT IS REFRESHING TO SEE DESIGNERS PAY HOMAGE TO THE BRIGHT, BOLD AND COLOURFUL ARTISTIC MOVEMENT OF POP ART.

PIONEERED by artists like Andy Warhol, Jasper Johns, Richard Hamilton and Billy Apple, pop art is a celebration of colour and pop culture in a way that challenged traditional fine art practices and created an everlasting effect in both art and design.

Adam Selman, lover of all things camp, stayed true to brand this season in an offering of 60’s inspired bubblegum-pop designs that experimented with elements of schoolgirl uniforms, oversize fuzzy sweaters and check prints. The matching two piece jacket and dress

similar in colour to Resene Ipanema was the culmination of Selman’s gutter punk and pop art influences which set the tone for his entire offering.

Balmain took a minimal approach to its design aesthetic, mixing subtle box pleat textiles in a pallet of purple, green and yellow. The collection was a throwback to the 70’s, encapsulating the end of the pop art movement as it transitioned to more simplistic colour choices, making way for colour blocking and geometric shapes. The purple, similar to Resene Perfume, of the flared pleated pants has distinct elements June 2015 of disco, further

16 I

Resene Bright Lights KTZ

Resene Pursuit Jonathan Saunders

demonstrating the 70’s influences of the collection.

No stranger to vibrant colours, Jeremy Scott pushed his latest collection further through the incorporation of cartoon illustrations and ultra-bright hues. The collection was a fun showcase of vivid patterns on sporty garments that were executed on a clean silhouette as to draw attention to the textile rather than the shape. The matching crop top and pant, similar in colour to Resene Tweet, was playfully enhanced with the cartoon animal print that spread throughout the range.

Resene Tweet Jeremy Scott

The first time showcasing at New York Fashion Week, London based brand KTZ utilised the big apple energy to produce a collection designed to feel refreshingly new. Much like previous collections, the range mixed elements of kink, culture and abstract pattern design, this time with specific focus on elements of Americana design and tribal motifs. These same motifs can be seen in the multi-coloured fur jacket that almost resembles the work of pop art legend Roy Lichtenstein, only with a distinct Aztec twist. The bright yellows, similar to Resene Bright Lights, are contrasted against black

Colours available from RESENE COLORSHOPS www.resene.co.nz

0800 737 363

Resene Perfume Balmain

Resene Gypsy Queen Au Jour Le Jour

Resene Home Run Botegga Venetta

and dark blue to give strong definition to the multiple shapes that make up this geometric abstract pattern.

Much like fashion influences art, art does the same for fashion, and the constant reinterpretation of similar ideas lead to great pieces that translate from era to era as each industry borrows and creates from one another. The result is an ever-changing environment where there is only one truth, that is art is universal, multifaceted and constantly changing.

Resene Saffron Acne Studios Resene Ipanema Adam Selman

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photoshoot

true blue

Helena wears TOPSHOP Moto Dunagree dress Maddie wears ROLLA’S Long Sleeve top and TOPSHOP Moto Pinafore dress.

Photographer: Caitlan Mitchell Models: Helena & Maddie B @ 62 Models Horses: Oscar, Barnaby & Domiro Make Up: Clare Hendra Fashion Assistant: Samantha O’Brien With thanks to Judy & Jo

18 I June 2015

Maddie wears NEUW Wide Leg Louie Blue jeans.

Helena wears JONATHAN SAUNDERS Ellis Sunglasses, ROLLA’S Skinny Stripe Tee in Midnight Navy/Blue and ROLLA’S Eastcoast Jeans in Bondi Blue.

Maddie wears ROLLA’S Denim Jacket in Smoke Blue and NEUW Studio Relaxed in XX Light

Maddie wears JONATHAN SAUNDERS Dana Sunglasses, ​ NEUW DENIM Berlin Suede Jacket in Navy, ROLLA’S Skinny Stripe Tee in Grey and AUGUSTE HARRINGTON Sailor Trousers.

POS

THE FINAL TOUCHPOINT Point of Sale (POS) is not just about transaction completion.

Apparel talks to top POS providers that ensure their solutions both integrate with greater business infrastructure and enhance the customer experience.

SUITABLE SOLUTIONS

EFTPOS New Zealand believes your payment solution is just as important as your business plan, branding and product. Its solutions include a wide range of eftpos terminals including standalone, portable and integrated devices with different connectivity options to suit your business. Payment solutions are designed to be reliable, secure, cost-effective, and flexible enough to adapt to changes in technology and your industry.

POS is a crucial element in any business that takes payment. As the last touchpoint with your customer, the transaction process needs to be as easy and streamlined as possible.

EFTPOS New Zealand provides a number of POS connected payment solutions ensuring that our customers have the best payments fit for their business needs. Interfaced and integrated technology ensures that the payment process is simple, quick and accurate every time. An extensive list of POS Systems that are certified with one or more of the POS Connected payment solutions that EFTPOS New Zealand offers is available on the EFTPOS New Zealand website.

PC EFTPOS, one of these payment solutions, is fast, accurate, and convenient for both staff and customers.

The software guides staff through the transaction on the POS screen, while the customer enters their details on the integrated PIN pad. PC EFTPOS saves time and increases accuracy, as you only need to input the

20 I June 2015

information into one system. It reduces the costs of consumables, as the POS prints a single receipt; and there is no need for a dedicated eftpos connection, as it uses your existing network infrastructure.

Multiple terminals can be connected to a single POS, and multiple POS can be connected to a single terminal with POSLink, an interfaced POS solution.

POSLink also supports wireless connectivity, giving you the convenience of taking the terminal to your customer to process payment.

This winter EFTPOS New Zealand is launching the Verifone VX 690 - the latest terminal in the VX Evolution family. The VX 690 suits any retailing environment with a range of connectivity options both on the countertop and on the move and will be available with both PC EFTPOS and POSLink.

Integrating PC EFTPOS with the Verifone VX 690 makes PC EFTPOS available as either a wireless or countertop solution for the first time.

The Bluetooth connection to the countertop cradle offers unheard of flexibility for merchants. The VX 690 is always a wireless solution whether using 3G, Wi-Fi, Broadband or dial up internet to complete transactions.

The VX 690 countertop cradle has a built in charger to hold the terminal when on the countertop or when not in use. Like all Evolution terminals the VX 690 supports contactless and NFC payments with mobile wallets such as Semble.

INTELLIGENT COUNTERS A very fast and efficient method of processing retail sales, Counter Intelligence by Kudos is intuitive, and it has to be. POS and information technology specialists Calnar Business Systems install this system designed for minimal keystrokes, increased productivity and fast usertraining.

“The POS provided by Calnar Business Systems works really well for us,” said Marijke Petrus, owner of Envy Shoes. “It is

one of the few POS systems with a size/colour matrix.

Calnar can remotely access and back-up our systems across all six of our retail stores, as part of its yearly support.”

Real time updating of the sales information to back office is enhanced by E-Retailer, also by Kudos. It allows stock from both physical and online stores to be managed by one system.

“We have been selling Counter Intelligence for over 10 years,” said Dean White, director, Calnar Business Systems. “The product set is powerful and provides retailers with far reaching functionality through loyalty rewards based on breakpoints and all management is done from the back office program, installed onsite or in the cloud.”

Counter Intelligence forms the content management system (CMS) while E-Retailer looks after the design, maintenance and operation of the web store. Both systems work as one to simultaneously keep stock and customer information.

POS

FOUR WAYS TO WIN AT RETAIL: Today and tomorrow THE modern consumer wants to shop instantly and effortlessly, across multiple channels. Francesca Nicasio, Retail Expert at cloud-based retail software company Vend, looks at how fashion retailers can use their POS to reduce friction points in their stores for a better customer experience.

How can you offer a shopping experience that gets customers coming back and telling their friends? It’s easier than you might think, but it can be hindered by pain-points such as long lines, slow checkout and ‘double-sells’. Thankfully, there’s a growing wave of innovative and affordable POS technologies which can reduce friction and create a modern customer experience.

1. Adopt a mobile POS system. If you’re still using an old-fashioned cash register, upgrading to a cloudbased POS that runs on your computer or mobile device can make a huge difference to your business.

Mobile POS are considerably faster than traditional cash registers, they let you send receipts via email, and allow you to make a sale and check up on stock from anywhere in the store. This eliminates long lines and improves traffic flow throughout your store, freeing up space and time for your customers.

“We were looking for a cloud-based POS to streamline the sales operations in our remote stores around the country,” says Kelly Maire, Sales, PR and Marketing Manager at iconic Kiwi fashion brand Gregory. “Vend has allowed us to reduce paperwork, streamline our operations and ensure that our retail

staff have as little back office work as possible. That way, they can spend a maximum amount of time on the floor with the customers.”

2. Offer mobile payments. Being able to take payments from anywhere significantly speeds up the checkout process and reduces friction for shoppers.

Internationally, solutions like PayPal Here, Apple Pay and Google Wallet are fighting for the mobile device dollar, while locally major banks, telcos and payments providers now provide options for retailers.

Offering integrated payments with POS also helps to cut down on admin and errors. A great way to have mobile EFTPOS and integrated payments on Vend is to use SmartPay, a Kiwi company making mobile payments easy.

3. Have your online store powered by your POS. If you have an online store, or want to set one up, make sure you’ve got a system that links directly with your POS. This prevents accidental ‘double-sells’ when your online and physical store inventories are not in sync. It also means products, customer details and special offers can be linked up across all your selling channels, so your customers have a seamless shopping experience, and you only have one set of data to manage.

4. Upgrade your loyalty program and link it with your POS. Physical loyalty cards are on the way out.

They’re a hassle to carry, people forget or lose them, and they add time, and irritation, to the checkout process.

Adopting a mobile-based loyalty program linked to your POS lets you track and offer rewards from an app, no cards required. And programs like Collect,

which connect retailers directly with their customers via their smartphone, let you enhance the rewards experience even more.

“We’ve got 11 outlets utilising one central Vend system for our point of sale, and we’ve integrated Collect for our loyalty program for over 40,000 customers,” says Finn Puklowski, CEO, Hamiltonbased retailer United Sweets. “Integrating the two means we know who our customers are, what they’re buying, and we can market to them in a really relevant way. We can recognise our best customers, give them better pricing and rewards, and really make sure they have a great shopping experience with us.”

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POS

SWIPE AND SCAN

allowing much more frequent counts which results in much greater on-floor stock accuracy. No more fruitless hunting for items the POS system says “should” be on the shop floor; leading to much happier customers and less frustrated staff.

WHAT’S RIGHT FOR YOU? IMPROVING inventory accuracy and reducing checkout time are both vital for enhancing the customer experience. Vitag’s new item-level RFID system integrates seamlessly with all POS systems currently available in New Zealand, with no need to install any new software. Once the RFID hardware is connected to the retail POS an RFID-tagged item can be read by a compatible RFID reader in much the same way as a traditional barcode scanner is used – except that there is no need to scan the barcode itself.

Simply place the item within the range of the RFID transmitter/receiver and the sale is rung up automatically. The RFID chip is simultaneously deactivated, preventing duplicate sales. Multiple items of product with the same barcode will each have a unique item-level RFID code meaning checkout time can be greatly reduced by scanning multiple items at once. If a store is equipped with traditional EAS security hard tags, one option is a reusable combination RFID and security tag. Matched with the customised detacher, when the security tag is presented for removal the built-in RFID scanner will ring up the sale as the tag is being removed. This then halves the amount of time usually required to scan the barcode and remove the tag in two separate actions.

Vitag’s RFID encoding technology is fully compliant with global GS1 standards and can be used with regular EAN barcodes as well as a variety of in-house barcode protocols. Once deployed, stocktaking an entire store actually becomes fun and takes around 20 minutes –

THE last impression customers gain of a store is the POS. The impression left on a business is the time and money wasted if the POS is not effective. Advance Equipment Supplies (AES) outlines the best POS for businesses of various sizes and stages.

For Small Businesses Quorion POS systems from Germany fill the niche with an impressive range of terminals, from the small yet fully functional QMP18 to the touch screen QTouch10, the closest thing to a full POS system in a cash register.

For Medium Businesses NCR provides smart technology to help manage operations, connect with customers and enhance business with mobility options, drive throughput and increase per cap spending. Quest Enterprise Manager, a revolutionary cloud based Back Office solution, designed with franchise or multiple venue operations in mind, is a powerful business tool that delivers multi-site, multi-concept enterprises with the exact information when it is required. And you can access it from anywhere, even your iPhone.

For Growing Businesses Intelligent Retail provides Connect, a retail based software bundle. With everything in one product, from one company, Connect grows with you. Built by retailers, for retailers, Connect allows you to expand your sales across stores, across the internet, and through other channels such as EBay, TradeMe and Amazon

from a single interface within Connect.

For Future Businesses WorldSmart Retail develops and markets leading POS and information management solutions for tspecialty retail. Solutions that help clients increase the productivity of their service staff, streamline reporting, manage in-house loyalty programs and enhance security and monitoring of stock. The options are varied and choosing the right POS. The best way to find out is to talk to the people who know POS. One of Eftpos Specialists and Advance Equipment Supplies representatives can visit and complete a comprehensive needs analysis to present the best POS for specific businesses.

CLICK AND COLLECT SUCCESS

APPAREL21 develops fully integrated business software and services for the apparel industry, including manufacturing, wholesale and retail. APG & Co (formerly Apparel Group), encompasses Sportscraft, Saba, JAG and Willow brands, and has been finding seamless solutions with Apparel21 for more than 15 years. A key benefit for APG & Co is Apparel21’s real time view of in-store inventory, enabling an effective Click & Collect same day service.

Merchandise planning, retail back office, and POS combine in Apparel21’s single integrated solution.

Online customers are able to check in-store stock availability, pay for it online and collect it from the nearest brick and mortar store. By eliminating the need for multiple systems, manual processes are eliminated, errors are reduced and data visibility across the business is improved.

“Our store or head office staff can locate stock in another store and will enable Click & Collect. We are currently trialling Ship from Store and Click & Collect prior to wider rollout,” said Paul Kennedy, CIO, APG

INFORMATION = PROFIT Island Pacific Smart Suite.

Smart Choice.

In retail the moment of decision is everything.

Today those moments are 24/7 and global. At Island Pacific we offer true customer-focused omni-channel retail technology solutions, because helping you connect with your customers is how we help you make the sale.

How much do you want?

How much do you want to invest?

Advance Equipment Supplies - exclusive NZ distributors, through Eftpos Specialists Group, exclusive distributors of Quorion Cash Registers. From the small but very smart QMP18 to the POS based QTouch10 *Eftpos integration – customer display – barcode scanners.

Visit the Quorion website to see more www.quorion.com

Island Pacific SmartSuite is the next generation end-to-end retail business software solution, with features ranging from comprehensive business intelligence to mobile POS and real time stock availability.

Island Pacific SmartSuite is available as a business-wide integrated solution or as a range of stand-alone modules.

To make the smart choice today call Island Pacific at 09 980 4595 or visit www.islandpacific.com

CALL 0800 22 33 49

Discuss your dreams, your needs and how a POS system can increase your profit.

inquiry@islandpacific.com USA: +1 800 994 3847 AUS: +61 (0) 2 9369 8500

UK: +44 (0) 1 279 874545 NZ: +64 (0) 9 980 4595

www.advancepos.co.nz

www.eftpos-specialists.co.nz

22 I June 2015

POS

POS DEMAND

IN February 2015 alone there was AU$1.8 billion worth of sales in Australia across clothing, footwear and personal accessory categories. 43% of these are made in person at the POS, of which only 15% were made in cash.

This means that AU$666 million dollars’ worth of clothing, footwear and accessories were paid by credit or debit card at the POS in February 2015. Bjorn Behrendt, CMO, Mint Payments insists that fashion retailers need to upgrade their Eftpos machines to support the latest payments consumer demand, especially NFC Contactless.

The product of choice in New Zealand is BNZ PayClip, developed with Mint Payments, which has recently launched one of the smallest and most powerful mobile Bluetooth terminals that work with Apple and Android smartphones.

& Co. “As a larger customer, we work closely with the Apparel21 team to understand their product roadmap, agree priorities for development and ensure capabilities we need, such as e-commerce integration, are included in plans.” With Apparel21, online orders can be fulfilled from nearby stores, not from central distribution centres, to ensure faster shipping and improved stock utilisation. APG & Co can also place business rules to determine the best location to ship stock from.

“Apparel21 work hard to deliver changes when required, either to the core product or to our customisations. Support is available when we need it and can be supplemented when projects are being delivered,” said Kennedy. Leveraging real time data, Apparel21 offers APG & Co end to end service beyond POS, from design through to production, supply chain and logistics.

standalone system depends on what suits you best.

The key thing to understand is; what will happen in the event of a network failure? Will your system still be useable? Asking these questions could save you major headaches later on.

4. Who is already using it?

A good POS provider will have a strong client base and should be able to provide examples of other people in your industry who are not only using the software, but who are happy to recommend and endorse it.

5. Can it grow with my business?

If you’re planning on building a web shop or you are looking to expand and open more branches you need to know that you’re choosing a system that can grow with your business in an efficient and affordable way. Beware of limitations on the number of products or the number of stores the software can support.

5 QUESTIONS FOR POS SYSTEMS

WITH an array of options available, choosing a POS system can be complex. Today Software breaks down key questions to ask for a decisive decision.

1. Is this software specialised or general?

There’s no point in getting a system that’s specifically tailored to the restaurant industry if you are running a shoe store. It will only lead to years of compromise and work-arounds. Choose a system that is strong in your industry and you will have peace of mind for years to come.

2. Can it be customised?

There’s a big difference between an off-the-shelf system and a bespoke system that’s tailored to your needs. If the software is developed locally, that’s an even bigger bonus as it can potentially open the door to having customisations made just for you.

3. Cloud based or server based?

Whether you chose a cloud based, server based or

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I 23

POS

DIGITAL RECEIPTS ARE NEAR

XERO and Paymark have announced that they are teaming up to eliminate paper receipts in New Zealand. The Paymark EFTPOS network processes more than 75 per cent of all electronic transactions in the New Zealand retail market. Coupled with Xero’s 138,000 New Zealand business customers, the companies are well positioned to introduce electronic receipts, known as eReceipts.

“New Zealand is already the leading country in online business with around a quarter of small businesses already using Xero’s online accounting software and half the population using online banking,” said Rod Drury, CEO, Xero.

Xero and Paymark have been working on mechanisms to allow eReceipts to flow directly into accounting software to save small businesses time and money, by accurately and automatically capturing expenses directly into Xero platform.

“Our vision for New Zealand is to be the world’s leader in electronic business and this is a clear example of how we can work together to make a real difference,” added Drury. “We want this to be open and we are sure that other accounting and expense management vendors will leverage the work done by Paymark and Xero to fulfil our vision.”

Mark Rushworth, CEO, Paymark says the collaboration presents unlimited opportunity.

“Revolutionising the way we store and use receipts will streamline many processes. It means no more waiting for receipts. eReceipts will undoubtedly result in increased productivity for businesses,” said Rushworth. Xero and Paymark expect to have the service in market during 2015.

THE IMPORTANCE OF POS SECURITY

IN today’s ever connected world, ensuring that the systems we use are robust, cost effective and secure is of high importance. When we buy a new car or house locks and alarms are a standard feature. So why is it when customers entrust many kiwi retailers with millions worth of payment card data that those details go unsecured?

Advancements in technology have made the process of securing payment cards a lot easier and cost effective, taking the hassle away from retailers.

This process is called PCI compliance.

Auckland based IT security companies such as Mako Networks are one way of providing a templated approach to security.

Darren Clayworth from Internet-Security. co.nz commented;

24 I June 2015

“With a Mako Networks solution we have been able to secure payment card data for a number of large malls around the country far easier and more cost effective than other solutions.”

Payment card breaches do happen and they cost.

Recently, Target Corp, USA, had their payment network breached, which resulted in the loss of around $40 million payment card details.

Trade groups estimate the loss associated with this breach to be more than $350 million in dollar terms, the loss of goodwill towards the merchant is expected to be great and could last for some time. Retailers are now seeing that prevention is the cheaper option and they have been installing technology to help prevent breaches in the future.

Some quick questions to ask yourself whether you are secure or not are; Can my staff access the internet from a payment machine? Can unauthorized devices be connected to your network? Can anyone plug a USB stick into the payment PC? Remember if keeping your customers payment card data is important to you to always seek advice from you IT security team on how to become PCI compliant.

BEACONS FOR POS

DROPIN by Roam Creative is an iBeacon cloud based system that works with Dropshop; an iPad app created for retailers to enhance the retail experience.

Dropin integrates with existing POS systems to help gain insights about customers and improve operations.

With the implementation of Dropin and Dropshop a seamless loop of communication about customers can be created. Customers who download an iBeacon enabled IOS/Android app allow for iBeacons (Droplets) to detect their presence via Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE) as they enter a store.

Once customers are detected by iBeacons information about the customer is sent to the retailers corresponding Dropshop app that is set up on iPad. This displays a dashboard where retailers can view who is in store and which area they are the located as well as how long they have been in store for. Access to recent and past customers is also available.

Customers are identified by a profile, which they have set up on the Dropin enabled smartphone app.

This allows staff to get a quick view of the customers name, when they last visited, their past purchase history, which department they are currently located in, how long they have been in the store for as well as any notes staff may have previously added, such as their hobbies, interests and personality.

With this knowledge staff have a greater understanding of how to communicate with customers and can provide a more personalised experience. Knowing past purchasing habits

also allows for staff to streamline operations. It also allows for staff to cross sell, showing customers items they will likely be interested in based from their past purchase history and interests.

Not only does this make the shopping process faster for a customer but provides an enjoyable experience.

Depending on the merchant and POS system currently in place Dropshop can integrate a series of different features to suit the retailer. Roam Creative advises retailers to start considering introducing cloud and API enabled POS systems to enable these new services. In particular, Vend provides a good solution.

FROM THE GROUND UP POS is no longer a fixed place in the store.

Implemented correctly, mobile devices for staff and omni-channel structures can improve customer service and increase sales. Island Pacific has provided store operations software solutions to the retail industry for over 30 years.

Island Pacific can deliver end-to-end solutions or selected components for a retailer’s current priorities.

Its POS systems range from standard key reports to sophisticated business intelligence solution.

Its SmartStore and SmartOmni solutions are two options that work together to transform the traditional shopping experience.

Island Pacific SmartStore puts mobile technology in the hands of store staff, allowing them to transact with shoppers anywhere within the store.

“SmartStore allows retailers to completely re-think their customer journeys and service models, while speeding and improving customer service,” said Mark McGeachen, CEO, Island Pacific. “Bricks and mortar retailers have several key advantages over internet pure-play businesses – if they properly develop an omni-channel business strategy.”

Island Pacific SmartOmni delivers omnichannel transaction capabilities to bricks and mortar retailers.

Its order orchestration engine manages realtime availability of merchandise throughout the business and coordinates cross-channel orders such as click & collect, reserve & collect and endless aisle instore orders, while keeping customers up to date throughout the process. In addition, the mobile devices then manage the in-store execution, alerting and directing staff to pick and prepare the orders in-store.

Island Pacific’s total focus on retail means solutions are designed from the ground up for retail

environments.

“We understand that retail is a 365-day business, and that service is critical. We pride ourselves on the fact that many clients have worked with us for 15 or more years,” said McGeachen.

“Island Pacific are fantastic. We started working with them fifteen years ago, have their SVI software system in 27 stores and we have not looked back,” said Hartley Vincent, owner, Hartleys Fashion. “They have an Auckland help-line and our account managers are excellent to deal with.”

POS

HOW WOULD YOU LIKE TO PAY FOR THAT? MOBILE phones have been the cause of a revolutionary change in technology, which has given birth to money transfer services and bill paying.

THERE are various money transfer services online and in the real world however, the difference between these money transfer services revolves around customer service, speed of delivery, availability, popularity, and cost applied to a particular service. Sush Mobile, an innovative mobile software solutions company, compares these mobile payment solutions.

Apple Pay in the Online Market.

The online payment giant, PayPal, has dominated the digital market for a long time. When compared to Apple Pay, which is less than a year old, it seems that PayPal may already be getting some staunch competition.

This is due to the unique ways in which Apple Pay has been introduced alongisde both existing and emerging products, which have a tendency to garner the attention of young and old alike. It’s an integrated payment solution, which welcomes adoption by an already significant user base.

Other Payment Systems Obstacles that Apple Pay is Facing Apple Pay

One of the latest and arguably most anticipated mobile payment platforms is Apple Pay. Developed by Apple Inc. in September 2014 Apple Pay allows users of iPhone 6, iPhone 6 Plus, and other compatible iPhone products, such as the recently launched Apple Watch, to transfer and make payments.

Payment isn’t the only platform that Apple Pay does, it is also a force to be reckoned with when it comes to digital wallets. In terms of adoption, current statistics have revealed that the new service by Apple is considered trustworthy and merits at least a try.

In Australia and New Zealand, the acceptance and adoption of mobile transfer services has been enormous. Even more exciting is that alongside third party payment solution providers, banks in these parts of the world have joined up with top online payment platforms and even incorporated methods to make the payments easier and more secure through bank accounts.

However, in New Zealand there seems to be more involvement pointing in a direction of using Apple Pay as compared to Australia where PayPal has garnered more roots. The reason for this is that PayPal has a dongle that accepts all mobile devices, while Apple Pay accepts only Apple devices.

Apple Pay has not been in the payment market for very long, and therefore they may not be aware of ways in which they should maneuver in the market. The biggest obstacle that Apple Pay is facing is the fact that there is a lot of competition in the market. Another obstacle is the fact that many people think that Apple Pay is not very secure, due to the fact that it is new in the market and does not know some of the security details that online markets are challenged with everyday.

There are various payment systems that are very similar to Apple Pay. PayPal and Google Wallet have both been doing extraordinarily well in the mobile and online payment markets. However, in some countries, such as Kenya and neighbouring East African nations, M-pesa is used.

M-pesa enables people to send money to one another through their phone numbers.

All that is needed is a SIM card. Further, the M-pesa technology allows people to pay for goods and services using a till number.

Other platforms include Skrill and Payza, which operate quite similarly to PayPal.

Semble

Possibly the hottest mPay solution to hit New Zealand is Semble. The service is based on extraordinary collaboration between TSM NZ, eftpos operator Paymark, NZ telcos 2degrees, Spark, and Vodafone, and banks, such as ASB and BNZ. Semble facilitates contactless payments via a special NFC-enabled SIM card.

Android users with an approved NFC SIM card paired with a compatible bankcard can pay at checkout by swiping their phone over the POS terminal, just as they would any other PayWave or PayPass card.

Difference Between use of Apple Pay and PayWave or PayPass

The main difference between using Apple Pay and VISA PayWave or Mastercard PayPass is that with Apple Pay it tends to tokenise the user’s card while shopping, hence all you require is your phone. On the other hand, PayWave or PayPass requires the card to be provided physically and put behind the electronic machine when going about your shopping.

Possibility of Other Vendors Entering the Market The possibility of other vendors such as CVS and Rite Aid-Pharmacies located in the USA following the direction of Apple Pay is really quite low at the moment, due to the fact that competition is tough and security for these services is still a challenge.

Meanwhile, there are others who claim that they are considering merging or partnering up with more capable companies in the digital payment market in order to build a successful competing product.

At the moment there are a lot of challenges surrounding Apple Pay. There are some plus sides of this unique payment method, not least of which include ease of use, fantastic customer service, and a rapidly growing network of accepted banking and retail partners, and fast and secure transactions.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 25

the key PIECE

SHIRTDRESS

WE’RE currently experiencing a massive highlight on androgynous fashion, and its no surprise that the shirtdress has emerged again as a super luxe street style trend. Forget what you know and like about the boyfriend shirt, the new shirtdress is an elegant and crisp statement that has made its way onto the high fashion market.

Consider an equally minimal handbag with statement jewellery instead, opting for a simple heel and clean hair. A matching fabric belt tied at the waist will retain the feminine silhouette without compromising the masculine detailing that stands out against the crowd.

The more adventurous soul could experiment with a full selection of statement accessories, but be careful not to over complicate the look, as the secret to success is looking as effortlessly put together as possible.

THE INDUSTRY ACCORDING TO . . .

Paula Murphy - hideseekers.com

CREATING a story in my head, then imagining and sketching the characters outfits is something I’ve always loved doing since childhood. It’s how most of my collections start, and my favourite part of the job.

I started out in the industry working as a window dresser in the visual merchandising department at

26 I June 2015

Smith & Caugheys. We squirrelled away down in the basement, making props and covering backdrops for weeks, in preparation for launching the new season collections, the highly anticipated spring floral or Christmas windows and the occasional major fragrance release. The Queen Street window frontage would be totally blocked out in anticipation, sometimes for up to a week, with small peep holes for passers‐by to stop, and wonder at what magic was slowly taking place inside.

When the windows were finally unveiled, each mannequin would be uniquely styled and accessorised (fairly heavily, so every department got a look in!). Back then the imports department was comprised mostly of one‐of-a‐kind outfits, priced accordingly, that the clients would fall in love with in the window, and happily purchase safe in the knowledge they would indeed be the only one wearing it.

Fast forward 20 years, and if it warrants window space, there are probably 50+ extra units out the back ready to sell. Website moodboards, spend and save mail‐outs, and generic visual merchandising kits are generated simultaneously, and deployed at a frantic speed, to match the constant drops of fast fashion.

We are bombarded with ‘New For You’ and ‘Latest, Greatest Trends to Try’ constantly, across a multitude of media platforms and the pace is exhausting.

Across every area, the mouse‐wheel of the NZ fashion industry seems to spin faster and faster, as we strive to make our presence felt and remain relevant in a global marketplace, where bigger, stronger, faster competitors are setting up shop with increasing frequency. Everyone is feeling the pressure of having less

time. Wholesale sales windows and fashion weeks have come forward, timelines and budgets are shrinking, and there is less time to create. The photographers, stylists, and makeup artists, are cramming what used to be a three day shoot into a single day; and for the same day rate as five years ago. Photoshop fixes the rest. Designers need to create a wow factor that will translate over a myriad of different media. No sooner is the range designed and sampled, photographed and sold, blogged, posted, and shared, then the chain stores 25% off sales start. The next big trend has arrived, and everybody has already pinned and pre‐ordered it.

But if for every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction, then maybe the time has come for more of us to just slow down. It seems time really is the new luxury, and there are a growing number of stylish consumers out there who have no interest or time for throwaway fashion.

At Hideseekers’ we choose to focus on this discerning demographic with our luxury basics, offered in leather, cotton, cashmere and silk. It is an area of the market where we feel we can add value and offer a more personalised service, without our ethos being drowned out by the constant noise from industry heavyweights and their weighty advertising spend.

Rather than trying to yell above the noise we’ve decided it’s about focusing our attention on what makes our brand and our customers special, unique and valuable. To quote Kanye; “Someone will always be prettier. Someone will always be smarter. Someone will always be younger. But they will never be you.”

specialREPORT

GENDER BENDER A face full of make-up slouches nonchalantly in a men’s suit for the camera. This is not the latest Marc Jacobs campaign but a historic image of Katherine Hepburn, the 1920s epitome of female beauty musing on menswear.

SINCE fashion first began, both men and women have borrowed from the opposite sex to create new creative boundaries. The infamous YSL ‘le smoking’ tuxedo for women was no newer during its launch in the 1960s than it is now, yet the intrigue around androgyny and fashion remains.

The stir Caityln Jenner, formerly Bruce Jenner, created when she revealed her gender transformation on the June cover of Vanity Fair, shows what a captive conversation gender and sex can still be.

Fashion models in particular have walked the line of gender boundaries, Jean Paul Gaultier introducing Andrej Pejic on the catwalk is of particular note.

However, the new wave of androgynous fashion is not about different sexes borrowing from one another but a whole new category, where male and female references are redundant.

Popular styles such as boyfriend jeans and dress like t-shirts are now less about the sexes borrowing from one another than embracing a new category with no ‘other’.

Gender neutral fashion is a new wave of thought that challenges the apparel industry to embrace a notion rather than a trend. Powerfully, Selfridges launched Agender, a three floor gender neutral shopping experience in their Oxford Street store in March this year.

The creative pop-up project aimed to evolve and enhance the traditional shopping experience. The immersive experience includes forty brands to be worn by any sex, while Selfridge launched five of its own unisex lines. The underlying idea was to remove gender assumptions and allow fashion to exist on its own, as a purer expression of ‘self ’.

“For us, Agender is not about harnessing a ‘trend’ but rather tapping into a mind-set and acknowledging and responding to a cultural shift that is happening now,” said Linda Hewson, creative director, Selfridges.

“The project will act as a test bed for experimentation around ideas of gender – both to allow our shoppers to approach the experience without preconceptions and for us as retailers to move the way we shop fashion forward.”

The project is now being carried out in Selfridges’

Manchester, Birmingham and online stores. Using designer Faye Toogood’s concept, each store will remove mannequin displays and the online store will use a range of male and female models. Film, music, photography and décor examining ideas of gender will instead create a context for the store.

Smaller stores can easily adopt a gender neutral aesthetic by removing mannequins or by simply mixing the style racks and removing signs on changing rooms to no longer have separate segments for men and women.

A large number of international designers are embracing a gender neutral design aesthetic to create a community of difference for their brand.

“I think there is a space for fashion brands to offer more gender fluid clothing that mixes it up and blurs the boundaries, as this is what lots of people want,” said Sara Weston, designer, SJW. Weston’s brand is based on the idea of menswear for women and it’s a cheeky mix of both genders.

“Our label combines the nuances of menswear and heritage menswear fabrics and details alongside contemporary sexy tailoring for women. It is the mix of boy and girl, old and new that inspires us,” said Weston.

More than inspiring, gender neutral fashion gives consumers freedom. As a representative of 69 simply said; “It’s liberating.” 69, a non-gender, nondemographic clothing line from California, creates clothing for everyone, and because the clothes are designed to fit all, the oversized, one size garments are efficient to produce.

On the other side of the argument are those that believe unisex clothing is nothing new or liberal.

“In the 1970s there was huge interest in unisex clothing for children, unisex child-rearing and trying to create a less gender future by starting with the very beginning with neutral clothing for kids,” said Jo B. Paoletti, author, Sex and Unisex: Fashion, Feminism and the Sexual Revolution.

However, there are social commentators afflicted by the no boundaries business, as basic anatomy does show that sexes are not the same.

Yes, some consumers will prefer to play up their feminine or masculine attributes but there is room to create for all kinds of consumers. The retail and production processes required for gender neutral fashion are minimal; it is the idea itself that requires induction.

Just as Selfridges’ creative project was a test bed of how to enhance the retail experience, the production and promotion of gender neutral fashion is still testing perceptions of the now.

Fashion has a historically difficult relationship with various identity aspects yet the success from young brands to large department stores embracing the gender neutral concept suggests that this movement has staying power.

By Jessica-Belle Greer

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 27

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