Apparel Magazine | April 2020

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APRIL 2020 I VOL 53 I NO 4

editor ' s note

LEADERS IN SUSTAINABLE STRETCH

ON THE PULSE

HIGH PERFORMANCE FABRICS Australia: +61 7 3251 2970 Auckland: 0508 88 44 11

Don't Buy From Strangers, Support Local We, like most of our readers, are a small New Zealand business. We are family-owned and operated, are passionate about our industry but there is only so far we can go without gas. Support is needed from our industry to keep each other alive and that includes us.

This magazine has survived through a few recessions in its 51-year history, but this global crisis is a completely different challenge.

Along with supporting each other, I would like to also ask for your support of the magazine. Buy a subscription, pay your advertising invoice, put some of your advertising spend with us – we guarantee to give you a lot more bang for your buck.

We are proud to be the voice of the fashion industry in New Zealand and a leader in the market for so many decades. It wasn't too long ago that my dad retired and handed over the reins to me. The team would call him a helicopter parent because not only was I his daughter, but Apparel was his baby. With other media outlets closing or reducing the number of magazines in their stable, our team is committed to continuing to publish Apparel as it continues to play a vital role in providing a platform for designers and suppliers both locally and internationally.

This is a strange world that we have rapidly fallen into. The fashion industry is not the same, and may never return to normal, what we have to innovate on is the "next normal". As much as I adore in-store shopping, we live in an e-commerce world now, and if your e-commerce has failed to impress a customer, you won't see them again. Forgiveness of errors isn't something that the online customer tolerates. For example, a lot of brands don't have a size chart online or don't have an up to date one, or have terrible return policies during lockdown. Don't put barriers to business, take all credit cards (I love my Amex and don't care about the additional fees – pass the fees onto the customer), make ordering and returns simple, allow a customer to reverse through your website as well as go forward, and don't put a sting in the tail at checkout by overcharging for delivery.

CHAIRMAN

PUBLISHER ADMIN/SUBSCRIPTIONS EDITORIAL DIRECTOR EDITOR EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE CONTENT MANAGERS GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM

Seriously, in the chaotic world of online, there is just too much choice, a lot of national and international competition, so many brands screaming for attention. How will you stand out? How will you connect with your customers and retain them? I'm an extremely loyal New Zealand Made advocate, so any new upcoming brands that are made locally – give me a call, we are committed to working with New Zealand businesses.

As a consumer, I have seen prices for shipping at $30 at multiple places! In a flooded market, you cannot create a barrier to your own business like this. We have talked about this a lot recently, but if this is you, then address this with urgency. Apparel continues to be a portal for information for your business, how to survive the COVID-19 impact and innovative ideas from around the world. We are here to help with any questions you have. No question is too random either might I add. Let us know if you are struggling, we are here to help, or even to be just a friendly sounding board or facilitator in finding you the right partner or contact.

Remember to stay genuine, stay authentic, and be transparent. The mood of the nation is behind small businesses. We all want the same thing right now – to survive and thrive.

Peter Mitchell Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Janet Guan - janet@reviewmags.com Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento Debby Wei

2 I April 2020

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Suite 9, Level 3, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand +64 9 304 0142 Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2020 NZ Apparel Magazine.

SUSTAINABLE AND TECHNICAL PROUD TO BE PART OF

10 PIECES -COLLECTIONby

For w h o les a le en q u ires : bra n d @ ta y lo r b o u t iq u e.c o. n z

taylorboutique.co.nz/10-pieces

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I3

fast five

KIWI FASHION BRAND TRANSFORMS INTO LOGISTICS HUB

Have you heard? Silverdale Knitwear has a new third party logistics (3PL) service called Tailored Warehousing Have you heard? Silverdale Knitwear has a new third party logistics (3PL) service called Tailored Warehousing & Distribution. This will be helpful to businesses who need to bring their cost base down, are unable to negotiate rent holidays with their current landlord, or don’t need the same space and therefore need to look at another way of managing their warehousing and distribution side of business. While this hasn’t been the core of Silverdale Knitwear’s business, moving product around always has and was a natural extension of their existing services.

Silverdale Knitwear launched its Tailored Warehousing & Distribution service 18 months ago as a result of having excess space at their Levin-based warehouse.

“We thought there could be opportunity to use our many years of experience in shifting product nationally and globally to

help especially smaller businesses, whose main task is design and sales, let us handle the warehouse and dispatch side of the business,” said Warren Cotterill, managing director of Silverdale Knitwear.

“We are able to offer very competitive freight and warehouse pricing being based in Levin, have good volume rates due to our own knitwear stock movements and can deliver overnight to Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch.”

When they first launched this service, RJs Licorice approached them to manage their national warehousing and distribution.

Now they manage all movements of their product from their factory to their customers nationwide.

This includes whole pallets and single box lots, not too far removed from the apparel industry where they can pick and send anything from one garment to multi-cartons through to full pallets.

RUNNING SHOES YOU DON’T NEED SOCKS WITH?

Wearing sneakers without socks seem absurd. However, innovative footwear label Allbirds has set the bar high with their new release.Their new high-performance sneakers, Tree Dashers, are designed for athletes and runners.

Made from natural materials, staying in line with their brand ethos, this new design is made from sugarcane, renewable eucalyptus and superfine merino wool. Tested extensively before their release, it is now one of the lightest shoes in comparison to a typical sneaker - without compromising durability and comfort.

The Tree Dasher is lined with a castor bean sock liner and a merino wool heel pad.

The liner has odour-minimising technology which means, you don’t have to wear socks with these running shoes.Light, hassle-free and better for the environment.

WALKER & HALL DRIVE THRU Forget drive thru’s for takeaways, Walker & Hall presents to you a “drive thru” option to collect your newly acquired goods.

The Walker & Hall Drive Thru is a contactless click & collect service. Need it now? You can now shop online and collect your order from the Walker & Hall Anzac Ave Showroom.

There are two Drive Thru options available: • Drive Thru Express - order by 12pm and your order will be ready for pick up at 2pm the same day.

• Drive Thru - your order will be ready for collection within 3 working days.

Drive Thru orders are available for collection Monday - Saturday between 10am - 5pm, at 32 Anzac Ave, Auckland CBD. So what are you waiting for?

4 I April 2020

y e h t l l i w e r e h W ? u o y take HOES

XS @BOBU

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Best Design Award Winner 2019

Award winning kids footwear in sizes NB - 33EU. Available online and in stores nationwide.

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/bobux

fast five

VICTORIA’S SECRET’S BUYER IS NOW HAVING SECOND THOUGHTS Aprivate equity firm had agreed to purchase the women intimates brand, Victoria’s Secret prior to the COVID-19 pandemic are now trying to terminate their agreement. Sycamore Partners has filed a lawsuit asking the judge to terminate the deal. Victoria’s Secret, owned by L Brands, has announced that they will fight this lawsuit. Victoria’s Secret had been struggling prior to COVID-19, but now, with all their physical and online stores being temporarily shut, they have taken an incredible financial hit. Sycamore Partners claims that the temporary shutdown of Victoria’s Secret was “voluntary” and thus, has “caused significant damage to the Victoria’s Secret business.” L Brands has stated that the termination of the transaction agreement is invalid and will continue working toward closing the transactions. Victoria’s Secret was in trouble before the pandemic, as with many chain retailers. As a result, they have already borrowed $950 million from a revolving credit facility in March and has postponed employee raises, has temporarily reduced base pay for senior-level staff by 20 per cent and much more.

6 I April 2020

AN UPBEAT COLLECTION Instantly boost your mood from the start of your morning routine. GHD has launched their new Upbeat Collection - a mood-boosting edit of styling essentials inspired by the feel-good power of music. Their award-winning platinum+ styler, GHD gold styler and GHD Helios hairdryer have been given a new coat of cobalt and neo-mint hues. The Platinum+ styler uses innovative predictive technology, where the sensors in the styling tool predict the needs of your hair and adapt the delivery of power accordingly. The thickness of your hair, the speed in which you style your hair, is all taken into account. Thus, giving you the best results personalised to you. Now, in a new cobalt blue. The Helios hairdryer gives you salon-quality precision. Now in a gorgeous neo-mint hue, but still presenting the same unbeatable quality. Drying your hair faster and leavig your hair smooth and shiny. The Gold styler is also in a neo-mint shade. You can experiment with your festival hairstyles, once festivals are back, you’ll have your hair-do under your belt and ready to be used.

in detail

THE BEST SHOES FOR GROWING FEET The Bobux Autumn/Winter 2020 range is themed around the occasions our shoes are worn. Bobux aims to inspire parents to see where Bobux can take their child in everyday life situations - on adventures, little or large!

This collection shows how each pair is designed to meet the needs of our littlest explorers. From Waterproof Boots and shoes to classic Leather Lined boots for their favourite winter outing.

Designed by their New Zealand based design team lead by Nicola Williamson - an expert in leather materials and more importantly, a mother of two who has also grown up in Bobux shoes.

Shoes for our little ones also must stay on-trend.

One trend that Bobux has adapted is the ever-sopopular sneaker. Working with wider fashion trends and altering them to fit the youngest customers is natural for Bobux. It's time for us to draft up our outfits we'd pair with Bobux.

This new collection has focused on using unique materials, textures and finishes - more so than their previous collections. It highlights the beautiful leather, quality craftsmanship and luxe design features.

One of our favourites from this collection is the Jodhpur - a winter winner! A navy & caramel wonderland, what's not to love?

The collection is now available online and through selected retailers. For information on stocking Bobux at your store, send an email to retailer@bobux.com.

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edited

ALL DRESSED UP AND NOWHERE TO GO How to promote formal wear styles during lockdown With lounge and activewear at the forefront of promotions, how can retailers generate interest for goingout styles during COVID-19?

As date nights, happy hours and vacations look different these days, retailers have the opportunity to get creative with existing occasionwear and going-out assortments.

During this time of uncertainty, going-out assortments and merchandising stories may not look as initially planned. Read on as we present how retailers can reposition dresses, suits and heels, as well as the trends to promote moving forward.

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT DRESSES Both the US and UK markets saw a steady incline in dress arrivals from December 2019 to February 2020.

For Q1 2020, the US saw an overall increase of 12%, while the UK grew by 16% compared to Q1 2019.

Retailers like Ann Taylor, Boden, Dorothy Perkins and other top labels contributed by increasing investment in this category in January and February, YoY. However newness dipped as loungewear flooded the market in March, coinciding with stricter lockdown laws as confirmed cases of COVID-19 climbed.

Between February to March, the US and UK saw a decline of 11% and 6%, respectively. This decrease is attributed to the top stockist labels across both regions – boohoo, PrettyLittleThing and Zara – reducing new arrivals ranging from 14% to 33% month-on-month.

With social distancing becoming the norm in April, deliveries plummeted further as a result of disrupted supply chains and canceled orders. The overall number

of new dress styles arriving from April 1st to 20th dropped 58% YoY. Conclusively, the data emphasizes that retailers were initially supporting dresses more YoY, off the back on their viral success last year. Now in light of the global pandemic, retailers have since pivoted from their original strategy.

Of Q1 arrivals that saw a first sell out during the same time frame, 33% of those styles were black, followed by neutrals at 10%. In addition, florals made up 31% of styles that saw a first sell out as spring collections dropped and were heavily promoted via email. Midi length dresses were not only heavily invested in YoY, but also saw a 17% sell out rate.

Dresses with long sleeves sold out at a rate of 25% – not just coming out of modest dressing but also from mini-length shapes in going-out assortments. Tacking onto going-out stories, bodycon shapes had a first

sell out rate of 21%. Among products that had an impressive sell out rate, trends including puff sleeves, ruffles/frills and high-necklines also performed well.

The depth of discounts this spring was deeper than last spring. Unlike the relatively steady discount proportion month to month in 2019, the amount of products that were discounted in 2020 varied by month. There was a decline in the number of products on sale from December to February, with that number peaking again in March.

Both Spring 2019 and 2020 had relatively consistent discount depths, with the exception of March 2020 having stronger discounts YoY. Not only were there heavier discounts that month, from February to March the proportion of products on sale spiked. This suggests with people staying indoors, retailers were trying to move products quickly and at a lower price.

in the US, where 60% of heels online for March were reduced. Despite these dramatic markdowns, the number of sell outs over this time fell by 11% YoY, resulting in retailers unnecessarily devaluing their stock. Avoid marking down styles that lend themselves to Fall 2020 trends by including platform heels into 70’s inspired stories and working neutrals and earthy browns into head-to-tonal styling. Several of spring’s occasionwear trends can continue to perform well for the fall party period. Even during these challenging times, and off the back of Bottega Veneta‘s sartorial influence, square toe heeled mules have performed well so far for SS20 and will remain notable for seasons to come.

Strappy and barely-there styles saw commercial success

last year and won’t fall out of favor. Pastel accessories were just as big for fall 2020 as for spring, boding well for carryover stock. On a styling note, lilac platforms were paired with opaque tights at Celine FW20 – a runway approved way to wear spring footwear out of season.

Although events are halted, retailers continue to push heels in their customer communications to cut through the influx of loungewear and as a feel-good way to accessorize outfits for virtual and future events.

The strongest messages include encouragement to treat yourself and spring collection promotions. Ganni tapped into the notion of dressing up for yourself by communicating ‘new season shoes to dance around your house in.’

IS ANYONE BUYING HEELS RIGHT NOW? While COVID-19 has disrupted new season trade across categories, arrivals in the US footwear market are in line with SS19, with intake up by 1% overall. New arrivals in the UK had a more dramatic decline of 21%. With home workouts boosting the activewear market, sneakers continue to snatch consumers focus, accounting for 17% of the US mass market’s footwear assortment and over a fifth of the UK’s.

In turn, retailers have pulled back on dressier footwear styles this season with the total arrivals of heels across the US and UK declining by 18% YoY from January until now. Retailers have significantly upped the number of heeled styles discounted compared to 2019 to entice customers stuck indoors to shop online – particularly

8 I April 2020

HOW CORONAVIRUS WILL IMPACT THE SUIT With businesses across the globe turning to working remotely for the foreseeable future, traditional workwear and ‘office dress code’ communications now seem out of touch. Promote current workwear stock in line with online video calls for interviews and meetings. Look to Marine Layer, promoting its shirting ‘for an instant business-on-top look’ for inspiration.

Over March, the number of tailoring products on discount was up 15% in the US and 9% in the UK, YoY. Be careful not to discount too much, too quickly.

Tailoring trends move much slower, so your current stock will still be viable in the future. While demand for suiting may be lower than usual, appeal to your consumer’s needs for future events – weddings will be key here.

Arrivals for double-breasted blazers are up 50% for 2020 so far compared to last year. This once predominantly luxury and premium trend is trickling down to the mass market – the likes of boohooMAN and Topman are now stocking the style.

This silhouette will last through the year and works particularly well for mix and match options. Consider a lighter wool with stretch to give your consumers all year round wearability, or transition from linen to wool if you can offer more variety. Presence on the Fall 2020 runway secures this blazer for upcoming seasons.

Bright colored suits have previously seen high discounting. However, with retailers picking up communication for this trend, we note stronger movement and fewer discounts. While little change

is noted in the investment of bolder color options, replenishment for red, maroon and orange suiting currently in stock have increased 6% in the UK and 19% in the US, YoY. With the likes of Timothée Chalamet and Harry Styles leading the way, feature more color within your assortment moving forward.

Linen’s presence within the mass market continues to grow, noting arrivals across the US and UK rising 26% comparing 2020 so far to 2019. Thanks to blends and anti-wrinkle finishes, this fabrication is no longer attached to difficult care instructions. Pricing has also been integral to its rise in popularity and will be vital to maintain consumer demand. The linen blazer has seen pricing drop 9% in the US and 32% in the UK, YoY. Opt for blends over 100% linen to keep pricing competitive.

DATE NIGHT

VIRTUAL HAPPY HOUR

SPECIAL OCCASIONS

For customers, it can feel limiting to shift date nights from going out to an activity in the confines of their home. Whether it’s a first time meeting via video chat or celebrating an anniversary at home, this special night can still be preserved. Date night communications continue to be pushed by retailers with Topshop emphasizing that ‘date night is ON.’ Focus product on comfortable tops and outerwear for virtual dates, while promoting footwear and accessories for evenings in with your partner. Dresses are still going viral at this time proving there is still demand if the product and advertising is right. A recent example is the success of The Vampire’s Wife’s floral blue dress worn by Villanelle in the new series of Killing Eve, which already sold out for pre-order a day after the episode aired. Reposition similar styles already invested in for date night edits.

Conference calls are seeing usage outside the usual corporate set-up, growing as a way for groups of friends and families to stay connected. With this form of communication on the rise, retailers should consider reworking assortments to fit into playful virtual edits like happy hour or after work drinks.

For more formal meetings, endorse stories with ‘looks from the waist up’ such as dramatic necklines and exaggerated sleeves, opting for bold printed shirts for beers with the boys. For a dressier angle on catch-ups over coffee or a girls’ night in, promote oversized or dresses with stretch fabric that can tie in with loungewear trends.

Many are now having to spend occasions indoors, canceling or postponing pre-planned celebrations.

Consumers will look to make up for these lost plans with special outfits. Think about birthdays, baby and bridal showers, engagement parties and anniversaries.

If you already send out birthday discounts to customers, incorporate messaging around treating yourself to an outfit for your special day. This is a good opportunity to leverage your spring dress assortment.

Consider running add-ons such as balloons, decorations and beauty products. Re-gram customers’ home celebrations to create both a positive vibe on the feed, as well as giving inspiration for others looking to make either their, or someone else’s day memorable in spite of circumstances.

TOP TRENDS TO PROMOTE

TOP TRENDS TO PROMOTE

• Little black dresses • Co-ords • Ruffles • Lace • Satin • Dress shirts • Tailoring • Bold prints

• Square necklines • Headbands • Structured sleeves • Cardigans • Statement earrings • Printed shirts • Polos • Crewneck sweaters

WORKING FROM HOME

THE DIRECTION LOOKING AHEAD

Many brands and influencers are providing tips on how to adjust to life working from home. A recurring communication are top edits, as well as the benefits of getting dressed for the day to boost productivity. This provides a strong counter story to loungewear and pajama dressing. A relatively comfy aesthetic should still be adhered to here.

Additionally, Missguided and River Island are just two of the retailers that have gone down the empowering route of ‘dressing up for me.’ Other takes include outfit try on sessions to distract from boredom and ‘sick of sweats’ looks. These angles will appeal to the younger selfie generation, who will still quite simply want to share snaps looking good.

What are the future opportunities for going-out or formal products already in your assortment?

Loungewear With uncertainty to when lockdown orders will be lifted, consider repositioning hoodie-dresses, oversized silhouettes and dresses in soft fabrics for loungewear and work-from-home appropriate takes.

Dressing up to stay in With going out edits popular across fast fashion retailers, make those collections work for staying at home and for the future. Playing dress-up for date nights in, birthdays, holidays and more are being promoted by retailers like Revolve – establishing that this style of dress is appropriate for now and for when customers can celebrate together.

Mother’s Day (US) Capitalize on a Mini Me marketing opportunity for Mother’s Day in the US, coming up on Sunday May 10th. Take note from Monsoon’s approach when it promoted Mother’s Day in the UK on Sunday March 22nd. For a different direction, feature new spring collections, like how Wallis endorsed popular designs which will carry throughout the summer season.

Tried-and-true styles Hone in on basics and bestsellers, styles that move quickly with little to no discounting, which ensures

TOP TRENDS TO PROMOTE • Throw-on dresses • Wool sweaters • Trend-led cardigans • Stretch denim • Travel suits • Sweaters

TOP TRENDS TO PROMOTE • Dramatic midi and maxi dresses • Color especially white, red & pink • Bold prints • Cardigans • Feminine looks • Shirts • Chinos • Shackets • Suiting

fuller price sales during this time. J.Crew used the slogan ‘back by popular demand’ while Revolve pushed a sense of urgency for customers to buy before inventory sells. Focusing on these styles over seasonal ones minimizes risk and unnecessary discounting.

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best of south

NOM*D + PLUME Creative director of New Zealand label NOM*d and luxury brand boutique PLUME, Margarita Robertson, was inspired to open her first retail store in Dunedin in 1975. Robertson began by stocking boutique New Zealand based brands, but after travelling Japan in the early 1980s, decided to start her own brand, NOM*d in 1986.

NOM*d began by specializing in knitwear, due to Robertson’s convenient access to a mill in Mosgiel and

10 I April 2020

a local knitter. Now, still based in Dunedin, but has since expanded with another store in Christchurch.

PLUME stocks a selective collection of brands which includes international designers like Comme des Garcons, Rick Owens and Dries van Noten, alongside New Zealand brands such as Zambesi, Jimmy D and of course, NOM*d. PLUME is like no-other fashion boutique. The garments are carefully curated, with longetivity in mind. NOM*d collections

are timeless and of exceptional quality, therefore, NOM*d pieces are made to stay in your wardrobe for the longrun. The brands PLUME stocks, therefore, must fit within the same scope.

Robertson’s favourite part of designing and creating a brand is the amazing response and loyalty she gets from both her retail and wholesale customers.

Moreover, being able to collaborate with like-minded creatives has really driven the success of her brand.

With COVID-19 impacting businesses harder than ever, Robertson is actively thinking about ways to utilize the digital advances we have today to her advantage, however, it is the human factor that is vital for NOM*d, it is what makes the brand. We can only hope the normality of life will come back in full swing as soon as possible.

Before the nationwide lockdown, it was hard to determine how much COVID-19 would have impacted New Zealand businesses and individuals.

Oftentimes, crisis’ happen outside of our borders, so it has been a scary time for Robertson and everyone in New Zealand alike. Being handed a facemask when she was in Paris attending Dries van Noten’s Paris Fashion Week show was when she first realised how fragile the situation has become.

The team at NOM*d is aiming to achieve all it can in the immediate future. With their garments all made in New Zealand, it is proving to be an advantage during this time. With knitwear being a feature item for NOM*d, right now, their consumers are needing winter essentials, therefore, this season’s garments are planned to be available for their loyal customers.

For other South Island designers, Robertson is hopeful. “This uncertain time in our lives will end, it’s the rollercoaster of life. We have been through global financial crisis, earthquakes and all sorts… however, be strong, believe in yourself and your vision.”

“New Zealand is a great country, full of wonderful and supportive people, that’s our strength.”

PERRIAM

PERRIAM is a New Zealand made, merino focused lifestyle fashion brand situating in the heart of Wanaka. Christina Grant, the name behind the brand, grew up in Bendigo Station in Central Otago. Her parents were both pioneers in the merino industry, her father started the NZ Merino Company and her mother ran the Merino Shop in Tarras selling premium merino products. Christina was heavily inspired by her parents and their craft; she was excited to see how she could continue their legacy.

PERRIAM aims to create investment pieces that will last in your wardrobe for more than a season.

PERRIAM has product offerings from womens, baby, child to knitting.

PERRIAM’s story is unique, one that starts at Bendigo Station – a merino high country station. They incorporate their own merino wool grown on their farm and turn it into their popular knitting yarn. They are involved in every step of the way, from growing the sheep to the end product. Being 100 percent New Zealand made and operated is something Grant is incredibly proud about.

“True Beauty is Found in Nature” is the tag line PERRIAM lives by. Being able to trace their product from start to finish is a clear nod to this. PERRAIM designs are staple pieces made from a wonderful fibre

that keeps you warm and washes well. Merino is a great fibre that create gorgeous pieces of exceptional quality.

The favourite part of this entire process for Grant is the development of PERRIAM products with her assistant. The creativity and problem-solving within her team is a dream. Grant also loves the opportunity to collaborate with other designers and creatives.

Being able to bounce ideas with leaders of the industry and designers alike sees some of the best and unique PERRIAM creations.

Storytelling is a large part of PERRIAM. Being able to create stories around the different collections and ranges, merchandising the store to highlight a mood is what Grant is passionate about. Every visit to PERRIAM takes you to another world. Seeing the reactions and responses by customers instore and online is the best reward for everything PERRIAM does.

As PERRIAM prepares for a world postCOVID-19, the biggest challenge for Grant will be to think outside the box moving forward. Focusing on e-commerce and building an engaged community is the focus for the brand at the moment. While being in lockdown, the biggest challenge for the team at PERRIAM is working remotely and effectively using

online video call platforms to have team brainstorms is vital for their growth.

Educating consumers that supporting and buying New Zealand made is incredibly important for the apparel industry. Further, making sure consumers understand the costs behind being a New Zealand made brand was the biggest challenge for PERRIAM prior to the COVID-19 pandemic. Using New Zealand merino wool is not cheap, and it reflects in its price. Grant hopes that coming out of this pandemic, consumers are now more understanding and more educated in that aspect. Supporting local businesses and paying a little more for higher quality garments is better for the consumer, the local industry and most importantly the environment.

Due to the nationwide lockdown, it has caused many New Zealanders to pick up their old hobbies, many of which were picking up their knitting needles.

This meant that PERRIAM saw a surge in demand for hand knitting products. PERRIAM aims to focus on this offering moving forward. They began by offering a free knitted beanie pattern for their followers and have been overwhelmed by the response and support.

To her fellow South Island designers, “we’re all in this together”, says Grant. Focusing on online offerings should be everyone’s focus, now more than ever.

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I 11

GARTH WILSON WILSON JADE Garth Wilson Jade is owned by Garth and Joanna Wilson. Garth is a descendant of the original Maori tribes who have been living on the West Coast since the first Waka arrived. After discovering the Pounamu found in the West Coast, they learnt how to carve, sculpt and work it to use in trade. Continuing Garth’s family tradition, the pair oftentimes go into the mountains and onto the rivers and collect their own Pounamu, from there, Garth slices, hand draws and sculpts in his workshop directly onto the stone. The end result? Gorgeous pieces for their customers to enjoy and cherish forever.

Designing has always been apart of Garth’s life. He has been collecting Pounamu with his family since he could walk. After trial and error with a completely different industry after his schooling years, he realised his heart is still where he found his hobby as a kid. So, he embarked the Garth Wilson Jade business with his wife and is now carving full time.

The Garth Wilson Jade workshop and gallery is about five minutes drive, South, of the main township of Greymouth, in the area of Paroa. However, this has not meant Garth Wilson Jade ‘stays’ within the South Island. With simple email orders accepted, Garth is able to make whatever Pounamu piece you desire wherever you are in New Zealand.

The way Garth Wilson Jade stands out from the crowd is in the very nature of how each piece is created. Garth personally collects the Pounamu himself and everything is hand-carved by him.

Nothing is imported, as well as no one else is carving in the workshop besides Garth. He takes pride in his work and is really the expert in his craft. Moreover, every customer interaction is personable. You learn about Garth’s history, his whanau and why the Pounamu stone is so precious. It is far from a quick

store “pick up”, it is an entire experience for the customer. That alone is incredibly unique in the retail sphere.

The favourite part of this whole process for the design duo is unmistakably the connection they make with customers. Whether it be in person or even through email. Helping each individual get the right Taonga and obtaining feedback every step of the design process until the end is priceless. It is so heartwarming for the duo, when customers express how happy they are with their pieces or how obtaining a piece has been able to help their life in a specific way. That is how powerful their art is for the wider community.

In an unpredictable world we live in, especially since the rise of the COVID-19 pandemic, Garth and Joanna has been preparing for a world postCOVID-19. Although Garth is still carving as usual and orders are being sent away now in Alert Level 3, they will be looking to promote ordering via email as well as further expanding their online services and presence.

The biggest challenge for Garth and Joanna has been not sending out orders to their customers when they were in Alert Level 4. Not being able to reunite pieces with their owners has been a challenge.

Garth has also been missing being able to search for

12 I April 2020

Pounamu during the lockdown. The Garth Wilson Jade workshop and gallery is a tourist destination, not being able to have visitors during this time has also been difficult.

Joanna and Garth cannot wait for people to start easing back into travelling and discovering the beauties of New Zealand.

Garth and Joanna are always given exciting design briefs by the customers, some of which being creating personalised Pounamu bracelets in place of wedding rings and much more.

An exciting project they are working on at the moment is the opportunity to create a family heirloom. Garth is currently carving a sculptural piece from a single piece of Pounamu that will be made into three separate large pendants.

Each pendant will be given to three young daughters within a family, in which they will take with them when the time comes for them to leave home.

Joanna and Garth will continue to spread the Aroha while telling their fellow South Island designers, “Kia Kaha, stay strong”.

MEG & CO. Emerging New Zealand designer, Lia Hardy, is the founder, maker and creative mind behind Meg & Co. Based in Central Dunedin, she operates her small fashion label from home. Meg & Co. produces natural garments that are designed to cater to a range of body shapes. Designed and produced in house, collections are made bi-annually, staying away from the likes of mass production and consumption commonly seen in the fast-fashion industry. Meg & Co. aims to provide New Zealand women with classic and sustainable clothing that is produced locally.

The Slow Fashion Movement is something Hardy is passionate about and backs 100 percent. This is reflected in Meg & Co.’s mission to create durable garments with minimal environmental impact.

Moreover, the garments that Meg & Co. create are timeless, thus, being a wardrobe staple for you for many years to come.

Keeping her business processes local is important for Hardy. Not only are her garments made in Dunedin, the merino she uses is also manufactured in Dunedin. As a small business owner, she understands the importance of supporting local. She is constantly finding different ways to support small local businesses either personally or for Meg & Co. Meg & Co.’s most popular garments are the Shetland Coats and the Merino Gemma Dress. When researching the market, Hardy found that there was not a wide choice of merino dresses. The few she found were primarily polyester with merino panels.

Thus, we see the birth of the Merino Gemma Dress.

Made 100 percent from merino, making it incredibly soft, comfortable and of high quality. The Gemma Dress can be styled in multiple ways with its tie-in belt feature. Hardy loves working with merino as it is a great trans-seasonal fibre. Keeping you warm in the

cooler months butt also keeping you cool in humid environments.

Having this creative outlet for Hardy is the best part of owning her small business. The opportunities she has been offered have been rewarding and she looks forward to participating in Vancouver Fashion Week later this year.

Although a world post-COVID-19 is unclear, Hardy aims to use this time now to organise her business priorities and values so the transition to ‘normality’ is efficient and impactful. Being able to work from her home studio, Hardy has continued to make garments during lockdown. However, her biggest challenge right now is to find a way to launch her new designer range in a time of economic uncertainty. Consumers are being more frugal, however, she is hopeful that silver

linings will come from this time. We are already seeing it in the environment, with less pollution and animals returning. Hardy hopes this sparks a change in the way consumers think about fashion.

As Meg & Co. is still an emerging label, Hardy works full time at another job. Balancing her time between the two has always been a challenge pre-lockdown. This lockdown period has been a blessing in disguise, as Hardy has been able to focus a lot of her down time on Meg & Co. During this difficult and uncertain time, Hardy hopes to share that “life is scary, but we are all in this together... encourage those around you to shop and support local, and together we can get back up.” To her fellow South Island designers, “remember, together, we are the pride of the South,” said Hardy.

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colour trending

a t n e g a M

s e n d a M

AL ALO RAHUL MISHRA Resene Desire

Pin

GERMANIER Resene Virtuoso

RALPH RUSO Resene Smitten

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LUTZ HUELLE Resene BFF

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orget mustard yellows and burnt oranges; the new autumn hue is magenta. Bright, colourful and bold. With this hue seen throughout various designers this season, it felt wrong to not feature it as our colour trend for this month. Magenta is a flexible and unique blend of red, pink and purple resulting in a high hue impact.

Designer Alejandra Alonso Rojas made her runway debut with her ready-to-wear Fall 2020 collection.

The collection was shown at Spring Studios and began with relatively muted hues of burnt orange, browns and greys. However, that soon escalated to bright blues and electric pinks. Here, we see a bright magenta colourway that is seen in a few of her pieces, like Resene Pink Ribbon, take the stage. With a light, silky transparent turtleneck layered under a chunky knit cardigan in the same hue, it instantly becomes a head-turner. The trick to styling pieces in the same shade is to celebrate textures. The drastic difference between the two layered pieces makes this look interesting and fun.

Inspired by 1976 George Cukor’s film, The Blue Bird’s fantastical costumes, fairytales and mythologies, Andrew Gn created his Fall 2020 collection. Filled with textiles such as tweed and velvet and motifs that were quirky and astrology-themed, this collection was powerful. Brightly coloured looks or neutral sets matched with statement chandelier-like earrings, you can have both ends of the spectrum in this collection.

This full-length gown with detailed pleating throughout is decorated with bold accessories. The bright pink hue, similar to Resene Irresistible, is celebrated at its maximum capacity in this dress. With nothing to distract us from the gorgeous colour, the slight sheen of the fabric highlights the pink hue and captures our attention even more.

This gorgeous gown covers a lot but also not much at all. Created in a completely sheer fabric, Ralph Ruso uses layering and cinching techniques to turn a sheer fabric into something that covers a lot. With long bishop sleeves and an a-line floor-length skirt, this dress has all the elements to be timeless. However, the punchy pink and use of sheer textiles gives it a modern twist. With a bright hue like Resene Smitten, Ralph Russo is able to add a sense of subtlety due to the sheerness of the fabric. The tone is less in-your-

LEJANDRA ONSO ROJAS Resene nk Ribbon

face and electric, but it is still fun and bold at the same time.

Tassels, tassels, and more tassels. Germanier’s Fall collection this year showcased an abundance of blazers and jackets in different cuts and silhouettes. However, not to be mistaken, these coats are not for your weekly office meetings, they are for those who are ready for a dance or two. In bright hues of pinks, greens and blues, this belted trench, in particular, caught our eye.

It’s elongated length, it can be worn with just a pair of heels. The asymmetric look of the tassels across the collar and peeking through the pockets gives added visual interest. Moreover, the patchy watercolouresque palette of bold magentas with a generous topping of sparkly crystals scream “look at me”.

Swaying to the purple side of magenta, is a hue we see through this explosion of colour like Resene Virtuoso.

Leaning towards the rosier side of magenta, Lutz Huelle’s Fall collection presents a few looks in this pink sheen along with others in mint greens and warm yellows. This Fall collection turned classics such as a baseball jacket and tapered pants into something eye-catching, but not overpowering. This beautiful hue of magenta, like Resene BFF, is what makes this look familiar but different. Baseball jackets are rarely seen in an all-over bright wash like this, and it is precisely the effect that designer Lutz Huelle aimed to present. Classics in different silhouettes and unexpected colourways enable these couture runway pieces to be worn straight off the rack. A new bold staple for any wardrobe.

Themes of the wilderness, forests and nature were portrayed in Rahul Mishra’s Fall 2020 collection. This collection is highly detailed to showcase the level of skill and craftsmanship needed to create these looks.

A recurring motif we see throughout this collection is found in this pink sleeveless dress look; the tiered ferns and flora detailing. It cleverly separates the fitted upper with the skirt at the bottom. The sheer panelling that is also on the skirt section of this dress allows the wearer to refrain from completely drowning in fabric. Rahul Mishra utilised sheer panelling and textiles throughout this collection to conceal and reveal, and in this look we see the sheer panels match the same bright pink of the dress overall, blending in seamlessly in a shade like Resene Desire.

ANDREW GN Resene Irresistible

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accessory alert

LOJEL

Let Our Journeys Enrich Life

A

LOJEL is a global brand that seamlessly blends innovation with design and exceptional craftsmanship.

fter lockdown, Kiwis across the nation will look within our borders to find adventure and explore our natural sites. LOJEL is a global brand that seamlessly blends innovation with design and exceptional craftsmanship.

The brand aims to enrich the lives of modern travelers by actively seeking solutions focused on the wayfarer’s journey and designing from the perspective of the traveler. LOJEL finds inspiration for all designs through a transparent, direct digital dialogue with travelers.

Unlike other travel-ware brands, LOJEL conducts an honest and forthright conversation that addresses the reality of modern travel and offers an interactive platform for travelers to connect in a more meaningful way. Thanks to an open line of communication with travelers using the products, LOJEL’s team understands what consumers need and are able to adapt rapidly to the ever-evolving market.

LOJEL was founded in Japan in 1989 by Chih Chang Chiang, who started in the luggage industry at the age of twenty-one with a simple sewing machine, making leather bags which he sold at markets. Mr. Chiang developed an international vision through his extensive travels, at one point gathering a staggering forty-three passport stamps in one hundred and eighty days. He was looking for travel experiences where he could learn something new, which ultimately formed the foundation of LOJEL’s brand promise – Let Our Journeys Enrich Life. Chiang saw an opportunity to start his own luggage brand in Japan, the world’s second largest economy at the time and a country whose artisans faithfully make their crafts while devoting themselves to enhancing their skills.

The brand was initially headquartered in Kobe, working with local partners in Toyama on product design, molding development, parts and components, allowing LOJEL to employ state-of-the-art manufacturing. Extraordinary attention to detail and craftsmanship enabled the brand to develop a premium quality Polypropylene Injection Case, resulting in lightweight luggage with re-engineered components that rendered the ultimate weight to durability ratio.

Following a wholesale model at the outset, the brand recorded steady growth in the Japanese market, quickly

16 14 I April 2020

expanding with wholesale partners into other Asian markets including Hong Kong, Malaysia, Singapore, and Indonesia. Eventually, LOJEL relocated its headquarters to Hong Kong – an ideal location in the middle of key Asian markets and an important international hub, with diverse culture and an abundance of talent to operate the APAC markets.

In 2014, An Chieh Chiang, the third-generation of the Chiang family took over the family brand after completing his studies in Product Design at Middlesex University in London. He worked closely with his family on the production floor, studying every aspect of the creation process from the ground up – including design, product development, manufacturing, supply chain, sales, distribution and logistics. He quickly realized the limitations of communicating the LOJEL story to consumers through wholesale channels alone, and in order to realize his grandfather’s vision for the brand, repositioned the company as a Hybrid business model incorporating both wholesale and direct-toconsumer sales.

He joined forces with the highly regarded Vancouverbased creative director Kenzo Yoneno, and the duo began to address a fundamental change that both felt needed to happen in the luggage industry. Product design had to evolve to keep up with travelers’ demands and the company made a pact to design all products from the “inside out” – ensuring practical innovation and sustainability were at the core of all design choices.

An Chieh also spearheaded the opening of the LOJEL Lab in Vancouver, a city with an extraordinary creative eco-system and a multicultural population, ideal for growth in the North American market. There, as a global brand, a new chapter for LOJEL is underway as Kenzo and the creative team continuously identify the evolving challenges that travelers face today and attempt to resolve them head on.

Under the leadership of An Chieh, LOJEL is committed to being a functionality and sustainability driven brand, creating products with innovative features that simplify the journey for the traveler while easing their footprint on our earth. In order to care for voyagers throughout the entirety of their travels, LOJEL has expanded their product offering from

luggage only to provide more comprehensive travelware including backpacks and accessories. LOJEL’s Hong Kong concept store services existing LOJEL products, while also serving as an epicenter for interactive travel workshops and direct engagement with the consumer community.

LOJEL believes in Attainable Luxury, giving their global consumers high-quality products that they can afford. The brand’s international customers and employees offer unique, Diverse Perspectives. LOJEL has taken on a philosophy of Design for Repair – an ethos from ages past that is fully facing the future.

While many brands are quick to embrace the “dispose and replace” model, in order to speak to meaningful long-term consciousness, the design team is developing a system of modular, standardized parts that allow travelers to repair their own luggage easily and quickly, minimizing waste that ultimately ends up in a landfill.

An honest, transparent conversation about the realities of travel and sustainable production practices embody Truth in Travel, and the core of the brand lies in Unwavering Respect - respect for the planet, local cultures, those who make LOJEL products and those who buy them.

LOJEL products are manufactured in ethical facilities that are widely accredited and certified nontoxic, and the luggage comes with a ten-year warranty.

The production partners diligently maintain ethical standards and are pioneers of high-quality production.

With over thirty years of rigorous real-life testing, LOJEL remains dedicated to using the most durable materials available and introducing new functional features that make travel just a little bit easier.

The company has grown to include structured teams of designers, researchers, engineers, product developers, digital, customer experience, business development and marketing representing ten different nationalities – making LOJEL an authentically global brand. The team’s multinational perspective and deep love for the journey has set them apart from the beginning.

The brand is currently sold in fifteen countries and four hundred and fifty points of sale through LOJEL’s physical stores and e-commerce platforms. LOJEL’s vertical structure provides the company freedom to keep up with the changing times while continuously disrupting the travel industry, avoiding the pitfalls that many heritage luggage brands face today.

We are all travelers in an increasingly interconnected landscape in search of moments and experiences that matter. LOJEL aims to enrich all travelers’ busy lives by easing the journey through this vast world that we are all navigating together.

For more information or to view the LOJEL range, please visit www.LOJEL.com.

trade talk

THE FUTURE OF MALLS POST COVID-19

By Richard Nicoll, Chief Commerce Officer & Managing Director at Liquid

“The current Covid-19 crisis is certainly accelerating the expansion of our retail ecosystem into areas which provide the convenience and security that shoppers are demanding.

It’s not hard to see the immediate effects of Covid-19 on the retail market in the UAE as elsewhere. In the past few weeks we’ve seen tourist visitor numbers and overall consumer confidence dwindle, and the impact on the retail sector has been swift and profound. Couple this with social distancing now in full effect and malls temporarily closing, these are indeed challenging times. Whilst we have not yet seen store closures or panic buying that other markets are experiencing, there is a very real danger to livelihoods and reputation.

Historically and certainly before the crisis hit, ecommerce in the region was more about merchandising products, and it was a place that shoppers went to simply to buy. Post Covid-19 this will change, in the same way shoppers flock to malls for an overall entertainment experience, the same thing is most likely to happen in the new ecommerce ecosystem, which will inevitably include ever richer and more dynamic content.

Retail destinations across the board are not sitting back and doing nothing, for example Dubai Mall (one of the UAE most luxurious shopping

...with social distancing now in full effect and malls temporarily closing, these are indeed challenging times.

destinations) is just about to embark on an exciting partnership with Noon (one of the region’s major ecommerce players) to create a Virtual Shopping Mall, aimed at the same consumers that would normally visit their physical stores. Providing the same level of experience when shopping online as one experiences offline is the single biggest issue for the region's e-retailers today, and the events of the past few weeks has added further urgency to the challenge.

But what is also striking is that shopper behaviour in our offline world has remained calm and measured, in the UAE we are not seeing the panic buying that is happening in other markets.

The lack of panic buying across the offline and online retail landscape in the UAE can be explained in part by the shopping culture here.

With resident nationalities shopping as they do at home our differing needs, product preferences and behaviour are helping keep demand spread across the whole store. This means retailers seem to be dealing with an increased demand (Carrefour announced a 55 percent increase in sales in March) and it’s also true that the attitude and behaviours of most retailers in terms of surety of price and range stability has helped to maintain trust and reduced the perceived need to stockpile. Which is good for everyone.”

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essential stock

LOOBIE’S STORY

Elena Jacket and Pant set The elegant viscose/silk velvet Elena Jacket and Pant by Loobie’s Story are pushing the boundaries of style and comfort.

With a relaxed elasticated waistband, the Elena Pant provides comfort without compromising a luxe look.

The waterfall collar seen on the Elena Jacket adds sophistication.

Style this duo with a simple white T and sneakers for urban cool, or amp it up with a pair of brogues.

For more information visit www.loobiesstory.co.nz.

BIMBY + ROY

REGU Bralette Sleep, play and swim. Bimby + Roy are all about comfort and versatility.

The choice is yours on where and when to wear your Bimby + Roy bralettes and bottoms - be it in bed, in the water or daily worn undergarments.

Designed in Australia and manufactured ethically in the first solar-powered facility in Fiji. The fun designs are sublimated onto the material, which is one of the most environmentally friendly printing processes for fabric.

Underwire free, soft and stretchy. The ultimate comfort essential.

For more information visit www.bimbyandroy.com.au.

LOUNGE BLOOM WEAR

Super High Waisted Compression Leggings To be a better version of yourself and to become someone that you never thought you could be is what Bloom stands for.

Their Super High Waisted Compression Leggings come in three colourways; Sapphire Blue, Deep Plum and Classic Black. Pair these with a comfy sweater on your days off or wear them and feel the incredible support while doing jump squats!

A high waisted legging is a must-have for every personal loungewear edit.

For more information visit www.bloomwear.co.nz..

MINA

Esa Top Mina provides refined and effortless staples for the understated, modern woman. No frills, clean lines and simple cuts with a hint of self-expression. The Esa Top by Mina is made from 100 percent silk with an off the shoulder bias cut to create a beautifully draped neckline.

Created to be paired with the Mina Studio pant, this is the perfect feel-good top for your work from home offices.

For more information visit www.minaforher.com.

18 I April 2020

and

d

ACTIVLAYR

Nanocollagen Undereye Firming Mask ActivLayr is one of the very first skincare companies in the world to be using nanofibre technology.

With nanofibre made out of sustainably sourced marine collagen, it can rapidly deliver 100 percent bioactivity with pinpoint accuracy into your targeted areas and is scientifically proven to deliver deep into your dermis.

Nourish your undereyes from within with ActivLayr.

For more information visit www.activlayr.com.

OLIVIA

Poplin Pajama Set A classy two-piece set with a gentle neckline of soft lace and warm frills. With a matching bottom incorporating the same playful frills, it is the ultimate lounge piece.

Think girly, soft, and dreamy - the Poplin Pajama Set from OLIVIA is just that.

Designed to incorporate the fashion-forward trends of Korea and New Zealand’s sophistication and effortless-cool, it is definitely something unique to add to your wardrobe.

OLIVIA is influenced by cultural diversity and is ethically designed in New Zealand and manufactured in South Korea.

For more information visit www.olivianz.com.

leisure KOWTOW

Landscape Robe

Kowtow is a sustainable and ethical New Zealand fashion label. With timeless classics, this Landscape Robe is the epitome of lounge.

The Landscape Robe is a lightweight robe with a wide midlength sleeve, made from organic cotton voile. It has pockets and can be worn open, or wrapped and tied at the waist with a fabric belt.

Made from 100 percent organic cotton textured voile, free from chemical sprays or genetically modified seeds. Dyed with Global Organic Textile Standard approved inks and dyes.

For more information visit, www.kowtowclothing.com.

SLIP

Silk Scrunchies From the makers of Slip Silk Pillowcases, known for their anti-aging and anti-sleepcrease benefits, Slip has designed Silk Scrunchies that avoid hair creases and are gentle on your hair.

Silk Scrunchies are made with Slipsilk - a speciallycommissioned silk fibre that has been refined over ten years. Slipsilk is the highest grade long-fibre mulberry silk, with a thickness of 22 momme. These scrunchies are also made from non-toxic dyes.

For more information visit www.slip.com.

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THE 5 STRATEGIES RETAILERS SHOULD ADOPT TO COMBAT CORONAVIRUS A guide on support strategies retailers can apply during coronavirus COVID-19.

The WHO recently declared COVID-19 a pandemic, where industries around the world are feeling the domino effects, including retailers announcing delays to arrivals and supply chain issues.

MAINTAIN AN AURA OF NEWNESS

Previously, we delved into the impacts of coronavirus on the fashion industry.

While it’s still too early to measure the full effect of the pandemic on businesses, your 2020 assortment may not look like how you thought it would.

The earlier you plan your next move, the better primed you are to weather the storm. We outline the top five problems retail is facing with strategies to minimize risk.

20 I April 2020

The problem: While sourcing stock and generating newness is becoming increasingly difficult as factory quarantines continue, consumer demand is not going to decrease nearly as dramatically.

The solution: It’s unlikely your customer has seen all you have to offer. How you promote product you’re currently retailing still has the potential to create excitement. In our

GET YOUR FUTURE ASSORTMENT RIGHT The problem: During a crisis, or an industry level scale disruption as we are seeing now, getting your assortment right is more important than ever. The wrong investment or deadstock can seriously impact a retailer or brand’s ability to weather a storm, whether that be the coronavirus or a global recession.

The solution: While the future performance of the market is in flux, retailers need to tighten their operations by canceling unnecessary orders to bring assortments to a minimum. Successful retailers are going to be the ones who can quickly downsize their orders and upshift when the markets recover.

Considerations: • Spread the risk. Consider domestic or local suppliers if possible.

• Self care will be top of consumers’ lists.

Fall 2020 runway trends report, we outlined the upcoming trends from the runway that you should already have in your assortment – from 70’s nostalgia to volume sleeves and pastels.

Considerations: • Be creative with style edits. Color stories and style-encompassing themes such as the nineties, seventies and basics can be pulled from your current assortment.

• If self-isolation becomes more widespread, workfrom-home and loungewear will be of importance to consumers.

RECONSIDER YOUR DISCOUNTING STRATEGY The problem: March routinely sees retailers heavily discount as we enter the mid-season sales period. In 2019, 40% of Topshop’s assortment was discounted during March and 58% of River Island’s. There’s currently no end date for this pandemic, so retailers need to plan for the worst case scenarios. Uncertainty and delays to supplies means that you’re less likely to want to clear stock as in the past.

The solution: The concept of the mid-season sale can be confusing to consumers – many who are just starting to feel the end of winter. Couple this with the growing trend for ‘instant gratification’, consumers buying what they want to wear now, and you have an opportunity to align yourself closer to your customer’s needs.

Considerations: • Black Friday 2019 saw discounts of 20-30% have a higher rate of sell out than deeper denominations.

Discounts don’t have to be drastic to entice consumers.

• For goods too seasonal to hold on to, promote within a smaller sales edit or category-specific promotions.

What’s happened so far?

Over the past two years the proportion of retailers’ assortment on discount has been on an upward trend.

Comparing February 2020 to the past two years and we see while discounts have still increased, the rate of year-on-year growth has slowed.

CONSUMER ENGAGEMENT IS ESSENTIAL

and UK have to self isolate, increased online activity will provide you with a more captive audience.

For retailers that mainly rely on bricks and mortar interaction, now is the time to step-up your online efforts.

Considerations: • Is it time to join TikTok? Create a challenge or have your brand take part in a challenge similar to what E-Girls and E-Boys do.

• With the expected increase in home delivery, promote shipping offers to stand out against the competition. It’s critical to maintain communications with warehouses and distribution centers to ensure this is viable.

The problem: Whether it’s due to low stock or consumers spending less, during times of trouble it can be easy to disconnect with your customer.

It may not feel like it right now, but the market will settle, new processes will be put in place and stock levels will return.

During this challenging period, it’s essential you keep your customer engaged.

The solution: If the situation progresses and people in the US

EVOLVE YOUR MARKETING STRATEGY The problem: Should customer service be impacted, retailers need to be transparent about the challenges they’re facing to maintain goodwill and minimize long-term damage to brand loyalty.

The solution: Retailers have been quoted in industry press on potential supply chain problems and luxury brands have made donations to fight the virus, yet few have communicated the situation to their customers. Nordstrom and Target sent letters to email subscribers outlining hygiene measures.

The key message being that their stores are clean and safe to enter. Target also outlined limiting items per purchase to ‘allow more guests to get what they

There’s also been a shift in sales communications.

Accessorize’s mid-season ‘up to 50% off online and in store now!’ was announced on March 6th 2019, but has yet to be announced this year. While Pull&Bear’s mid-season sale started on March 8th in 2019. This March there has simply been ‘up to 20% off selected items’. House of Fraser’s ‘up to 50% off sale’ has also yet to materialize. Instead they have pushed an extra 20% off of outlet – clearing older stock in its place.

need’.

Uniqlo’s Hong Kong e-commerce homepage explains that they are experiencing delays in manufacturing and distribution and offer their ‘sincere apologies’. They also explain that store opening hours may be adjusted, but that the ‘online flagship’ will operate as usual – and that ‘you can shop easily anytime and anywhere’. David’s Bridal sought to reassure consumers by stating, ‘concerned about coronavirus-related delays? We’ve got you covered’.

Recommendations: • Make customers aware of any delays to delivery ahead of purchase. If something happens out of your control, maintain clear communication and have extra customer services representatives on hand if needed.

• There’s very few businesses or individuals that aren’t involved in one way or another. So be honest about problems that arise – we’re all in this together.

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fashionable films

Breakfast at Tiffany’s This 1961 romantic comedy is iconic, with costume designers, Hubert de Givenchy and Edith Head, dressing Audrey Hepburn in the most memorable black dresses in this film.

The way each character is dressed in this film allows it to be a timeless film we always go back to. The film follows Holly Golightly, played by Audrey Hepburn, who is a young girl living in New York City with no job. She plans to marry a wealthy man that is able to give her expensive presents. A simple storyline but executed well for its time. There were two iconic black dresses that Hepburn wore. One that was a straight-lined satin with a low-cut back, paired with matching opera-length gloves. The look was finished off with large statement stacked pearls and oversized sunglasses. The accessory choices Givenchy and Head gives Hepburn instantly transforms us back to the 60s fashion era. The second black gown was a fitted scoop neck dress with a mermaid-style flair at the bottom of the dress. Paired with a wide-brimmed hat, accentuated with a large cream silk bow and, again the same sunglasses and gloves to match. The wardrobe staple of the Little Black Dress that we all have is all thanks to this film.

Pulp Fiction A big part Pulp Fiction’s success is attributed to their unique characters, and ultimately, the unique fashion choices costume designer, Betsy Heimann, presented in this film. Uma Thurman, who plays cool-girl Mia Wallace, is known for her most iconic minimal tom-boyish outfit. Although, we use the description of tomboy-esque lightly here. The white collared shirt paired with cropped cigarette-style pants that Uma wears are traditionally masculine pieces. However, it is custom-made to accentuate Thurman’s femme-fatale character; adjustments such as a snatched waist and a lower neckline pulled it altogether. From this, the 90s saw a sharp shift in female fashion from over-the-top looks to ensembles which fit in with the historical ‘antifashion’ movement during the time. Simple and basic, but nothing from being impactful. Mia Wallace became the fashion icon of the modern women in the 90s.

The Devil Wears Prada Costume designer Patricia Field dressed the characters in The Devil Wears Prada back in 2006. With a 1-milliondollar budget for costumes, Field was able to use the fashion archives of Donna Karan for starters. The story follows Andy, played by Anne Hathaway, who has scored a job at a high-end fashion magazine. The way her style develops throughout the film tells us how she has learnt to adapt to the environment in which she is in. From ill-fitted ensembles and clashing colours to her first styled outfit, head-to-toe in Chanel. Miranda, played

by Meryl Streep, was Andy’s editor. She was dressed in classic power suits; timeless and impactful. The powerful looks worn by Miranda and the unique and stylish pieces worn by Andy showed the differences of polar opposite characters and allows us to appreciate the different style choices Field makes for this iconic film.

22 I April 2020

The Great Gatsby We cannot talk about The Great Gatsby without mentioning their stunning costumes. Catherine Martin is responsible for these gorgeous creations.

Moreover, she also wore the hat of the producer and production designer.

The Great Gatsby was filmed in Sydney’s Fox Studios, therefore, Martin had to recreate 1920s New York - from ballroom settings to New York grottos. By the 1920s, fashion styles had already evolved quite drastically from traditional Western clothing. All kinds of silhouettes had been in the picture, therefore, it meant Martin was able to play with a lot more styles for this film. Our eyes are graced with luxurious fur ballroom gowns and sparkly headpieces as well as sharp and tailored three-piece suits for the men. All representing the 20s era perfectly, rather than in a nostalgic costume-heavy way.

Clueless When we hear Clueless we think plaid. We have the talented designer Mona May to thank for that. The “as if!” film celebrates both the ups and downs of female friendships, especially in high school. Mona May designed the costumes with the inspiration to create pieces that stand out from what she was seeing on the streets at the time. The amount of grunge and punk rock looks was taking over; oversized baggy shirts and flannels galore. Mona May aims to highlight feminine looks for Cher and Dionne, thus, we see this translated into the iconic yellow plaid blazer and skirt combo we see Cher in in the opening scene. Taking slight inspiration from grunge fashion with the incorporation of plaid, however, the skirts were short and flirty which complement the main female leads perfectly.

Ocean’s Eleven Shiny shirts and distinctive suits were the looks seen on Brad Pritt who played Rusty, the leader Ocean’s Eleven.

Costume designer Jeffrey Kurland notably dresses Pitt in sharp ensembles to represent his authoritative nature. The morning of their money heist, Rusty is in a unique iridescent metallic shirt with a grey suit jacket. His look is daring, and he means business. The most conventional part of his whole look are his black dress shoes. However, other than that, the unbuttoned suit look he sports with the silky tie and multi-coloured shirt is not something we see every day.

His counterparts are dressed to their own, all with their own unique flair. However, when they are together it just works, the looks mesh well despite the obvious differences in character and personalities.

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HOW TO SUCCESSFULLY ADAPT YOUR COMMUNICATION STRATEGY FOR COVID-19 COVID-19 may have dictated retailers’ approaches for the past month, but now it’s time to go from reactive to proactive.

COVID-19 may have dictated retailers’ approaches for the past month, but now it’s time to go from reactive to proactive. Your planned visual merchandising strategy has most likely gone off track and needs a rework since the global coronavirus outbreak.

We outline the key style stories you should be promoting and those to reposition.

FOUR STYLE STORIES TO FOCUS ON

1. WORK-FROM-HOME

Promote current stock in line with new working environments With businesses across the globe turning to remote work for the foreseeable future, traditional workwear and ‘office dress code’ communications may now seem out of touch. Promote current workwear stock in line with the inevitable increase in online video calls for interviews and meetings. For example, Marine Layer pushed its shirting ‘for an instant business-on-top look.’

Keep your customer base motivated Working away from your team can lead to a drop in morale and motivation. Find ways to keep your customer base engaged and inspired. Take cues from Good American, which recently promoted interviews on career and business advice alongside outfits to shop. Retailers are increasingly using staff picks to resonate with customers to show what the team is wearing and their top tips for working from home.

Basics will have a new-found importance While office dress codes have become increasingly casual in recent times, basics assortments will come into their own here. With new season arrivals facing delays, promote core continuity lines with healthy stock levels.

Show your support It is important to be aware that not everyone has the opportunity to work remotely, particularly healthcare workers dealing with the virus first hand.

Make sure these consumers don’t feel alienated by your communications – call them out to show they are appreciated.

uncertain times.

His & Hers Partners that live together are suddenly working together too, which can raise challenges in itself.

Provide some light relief and promote twinning looks within communications. Recently PAIGE sent an email promoting ‘laid back looks’ for both her and him. Genderless loungewear also lends itself well here.

Promote trend-led pieces within cozy edits While generating newness is becoming increasingly difficult, promote current trend-led pieces in a new light to keep customers engaged. Cardigans, tonal looks and teddy fabrics are current trends you should already have within your assortment and all fit well into comfy style edits.

The importance of wellness The wellness industry has become big business, and now more than ever promoting self-care and mindfulness is of high importance. To create a wider, more meaningful story here, provide tips on how to slow down and look after yourself as social distancing measures take hold.

for consumers. Kohl’s highlighted this in a timely email on March 12th, while Everlane stated ‘we’re in this together’ – a theme that other retailers are also promoting.

The alternative date night Also consider, while many couples now have to stay in, some may be separated due to self-isolation reasons. Be sensitive to this and promote current sleepwear and lingerie stock for an alternative date night in or over video call.

3. KEEP MOVING

THOSE TO REPOSITION

Appeal to all fitness levels While new year’s resolutions were set a while ago, interest in fitness will be picking up once again as consumers look for ways to stay active and healthy.

Promote your activewear assortments and make sure you appeal to beginners starting out as exemplified.

Offer online classes As the gym is not an option for most at the moment, show you understand your consumers’ needs and provide online workouts and videos to keep them returning to your site and social pages.

Wedding Season Weddings and summer gatherings are likely to be postponed at the moment due to lockdown and social distancing measures. Rework current stock into Spring style edits and once rules are relaxed, promote within general occasionwear stories as consumers look forward to the change to catch-up with family and friends again.

Festival With Coachella and Glastonbury both canceled due to the outbreak, festival products will be less in demand. Consider reworking this stock into other stories. For example, Freshers’ weeks and backto-college edits will be big in Fall, while sequined garments can sit perfectly within Christmas party edits.

Vacation Season October is expected to be a busy month for the summer getaways that have been postponed and it’s also the month of Ibiza closing parties. Consider pausing end of summer markdowns for swimwear and carry options over into fall to capture full price sales in line with consumer demand. During these unsettling times, knowing your audience as well as being transparent and reassuring are all integral to your marketing strategy.

2. RELAX & RECHARGE Tap into the ‘Netflix & Chill’ generation Loungewear has had a moment recently, with several consumers increasingly preferring to stay in and stream TV shows versus going out. Promote your assortment in line with messages that encourage consumers to relax and unwind during these

24 I April 2020

4. STAY CONNECTED Focus on family & friendship With social distancing measures in place, staying connected with loved ones is extremely important

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Top quality products require the best quality.

You’re lucky.

We’ve got the best threads, needles and accessories for you.

24m Allright Place, Mount Wellington Private Bag 14-935, Panmure, Auckland 1741

apparel@terrys.co.nz terryapparel.co.nz tel: +64 9 966 1832

24m Allright Place, Mount Wellington

apparel@terrys.co.nz Private Bag 14-935, Panmure, Auckland 1741 tel: +64 9 966 1832 24m Allright Place, Mount Wellington Private Bag 14-935, Panmure, Auckland 1741

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