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Valentino: Themes and Variations By Pamela Golbin
A REALITY BITE In these quickly changing times, finding ways to engage with your customers is a top priority. Reassuring customers of the steps you have taken to protect their health and wellbeing while in your store should be the first step. Many retailers have been emailing their client databases to outline the steps that they have taken, from hand sanitiser at the door and at checkout, improved cleaning and sanitation of the store itself, filter cleaning and/or replacement of air filters on air conditioners and heat pumps. Spreading out stock so that customers can browse while maintaining social distancing, or even restricting entry and allowing only a few customers in at any one time, or providing time slots in the weekends or evenings when customers and their friends could have a private styling session. Obviously contactless payments, providing free courier exchange slips and reinforcing that we are all in this together is a baseline. Staff working from home? It is important to re-evaluate the security of your office, cyber security and stores.
Some ideas for a poster on the door:
a. We are doubling down on our cleaning, using stronger cleaning agents. b. Supplying hand sanitiser at checkout. c. Moving racks further apart. d. Strong staff policies regarding staying home when feeling unwell. e. Adhering to Ministry of Health guidelines. Coronavirus is shaking up business and consumer behaviour on a massive scale. Both the public and private sectors are scrambling to slow the spread of the illness and contain COVID-19 infections. While the full economic consequences of this event are still unclear, we know that the effects that the virus — and the drastic measures being taken to contain it — are already precipitating change across many industries. The realisation that COVID-19 may well bankrupt more people than it kills is a reality bite. The most immediate business impact of the coronavirus pandemic has been a major disruption to supply chains. While companies often have contingency plans, which revolve around ramping up production in a region that isn’t impacted, the rapid spread of the coronavirus across the globe makes it very difficult to pinpoint which regions would be least affected. Even then, the momentum and resources of each economy
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will not be easily replicated. The spread of the coronavirus has caused nearly all of the fashion weeks and trade expos across the world cancelled or reduced in numbers resulting in missed sales, partnerships, and networking opportunities. Close to our hearts is the Vancouver Fashion Week, where we are involved in taking three emerging New Zealand designers to showcase their ranges. Unfortunately, VFW March 2020 has been postponed and the show will now be merged with October’s Vancouver Fashion Week for Spring/ Summer. Online alternatives have helped limit the fallout from cancelled conferences and workshops, the fashion industry will likely still suffer a period of lost business opportunities. Conference attendees do not have the same opportunities to network via live streaming as they do attending in-person events. It is harder for marketers to casually share best practices over the live-streamed webinar, for instance, than it would be if the event actually took place. Though it is difficult to quantify the value of these chance encounters or informal network sessions, the effects will undoubtedly be felt throughout the impacted industries. The growing need for remote interactions amid the coronavirus pandemic has highlighted a need for the use of business media, social, direct mail and digital platforms. Print is also seeing a resurgence in popularity. Your smart phone’s inbox is a cluttered environment from which to carve out an impression and engagement to an unsolicited unsubscribed message.
Peter Mitchell Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Janet Guan - janet@reviewmags.com Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento Debby Wei
2 I March 2020
ISSN 1171-2287
Suite 9, Level 3, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand +64 9 304 0142 Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2020 NZ Apparel Magazine.
Valentino has been in the high fashion game for almost fifty years. Worn by young Hollywood and high-profile celebrities all over the world. This book celebrates Valentino’s remarkable career focusing on Valentino’s haute couture creations, looking at re-occurring themes and motifs used throughout the years. Through new photography, images, sketches and commentary by Valentino himself, helps us explore this fashion powerhouse. Valentino’s private fittings and backstage work is presented to the reader in this book. A true first insight into Valentino’s life.
Out of the Box: The Rise of Sneaker Culture By Elizabeth Semmelhack
From mid-nineteenth century trends to sports performance creations and streetwear staples. This book draws on the collection of the Bata Shoe Museum, private collectors and archives. With insight through interviews and essays by design specialists, collectors and historians, we hear the story of technical innovation, fashion trends and the development of marketing campaigns throughout the years. This book highlights prototype drawings and designs by Nike sneaker designer Tim Hatfield. Filled with illustrations and in-depth breakdowns, this is the source of knowledge for sneakerheads alike.
About Time: Fashion and Duration By Andrew Bolton and Michael Cunningham
You can learn the timeline of fashion history through this book, but bear in mind, this timeline presentation is unconventional and non-traditional. Fashion trends are seen in period dramas to transform the audience back into a different time. Thus, fashion trends work to represent a time, but it also develops with time. About Time starts in the 1870s, where the standard time shifted from local to global, and continues to examine fashion trends and fashion events over the years. The essence of time is incredibly strong in this book, with commissioned photography used to explore the shared experience of “objective time” that is measured by traditional methods of a clock or a calendar, to “subjective time” that is expressed through the clothes an individual wears throughout their lifetime. The concept of time and its relation to fashion is used literally and metaphorically throughout this book, making it an incredibly thoughtprovoking read.
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THIS INFAMOUS UNDERWEAR BRAND GOTS YOU The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is a processing standard for organic fibres that include ecological and social criteria for businesses to follow. The standard covers that the processing, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, trading and distribution of all textiles made from at least 70 percent certified organic natural fibres. Bonds launches its first Organics underwear range that merges comfort, style and sustainability together. This range is ingrained with full traceability of material origin and manufacturing transparency. Australian musician, Cody Simpson and fashion muse Paloma Elsesser are the faces of the new "We Gots You" campaign. They represent the new generation of ecoconscious millennials and are perfect for this new campaign. Bonds Organics are made using GOTS certified organic cotton which ranges from timeless silhouettes, trunks and briefs, to comfy bralettes and crops, there's something for everyone.
"Prioritising sustainability, Bonds Organics is our newest range of iconic basics. It's Bonds' first GOTS certified organic cotton range, making our product kinder to the planet, our people and the wearer," said Kelly McBride, Head of Marketing.
Bonds' environmental goals for 2020 see less water and energy consumption, an increase in the use of sustainable raw materials and the continued support for Aussie farmers. The Bonds Organics range is now available in Farmers and online.
FIRST BEAUTY BRAND AND REDDIT PARTNERSHIP Popular nail polish brand, Essie, has taken a giant leap into partnering with Reddit. RedditGifts is an online gift exchange program that was brought about in 2009. With Reddit's readership including high levels of 'beauty-obsessed' users, Essie hopes to reach a wider audience and consumer group through this partnership. They will gift 200 participants a sample of their new Expressie polish. Reddit has more than 430 million monthly active users and Roxy Young, vice president of marketing at Reddit, says that she has seen tremendous growth with its beauty communities. Essie is the first beauty brand to ever sponsor RedditGifts.
NEW SANITISING TECHNOLOGY Innovative technology meets contemporary design in this new way to sanitise and refresh your clothes in your wardrobe. The new Samsung AirDresser removes odours and wrinkles as well as dust and germs. It is made to provide an alternative way to take care of your treasured garments. With the rising need to live a sustainable life, taking good care of your garments, so the wear and tear life cycle lasts longer, is a perfect step to be taking. Samsung's latest home innovations use a powerful air and steam system to freshen up your garments. Simply place your garment inside the unit, and wait for it to runs its course. The Jet Air and Air Hangers
4 I March 2020
loosen and remove engrained dust. The JetSteam sanitises garments, but you can also place soft toys and linens into the unit for the same result. With the Deodorising Filter function, the AirDresser works to remove odour-causing particles whilst the Self-Clean technology dehumidifies, sanitises and deodorises the interior of the unit itself. Often, garments are thrown into the washing machine every two days, depending on how much you wear each garment. This causes the life span of garments to decrease drastically with every wash. The AirDresser is something you can use between washes to lengthen lifespan and condition of your garments. This innovative technology allows you to save time and money in the long run and should become a staple in every household.
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COS OPENS IN NEW ZEALAND
a custom-made spiral staircase connecting the two. Not only is it functional, but it is also a gorgeous centre-piece for the entire store experience. The store design reflects Finally touching base in New the iconic COS minimalistic aesthetic Zealand, COS is opening their first with the use of a neutral colour store in Westfield Newmarket in palette of whites and greys. The floor Auckland. to ceiling windows allows gorgeous COS is well known for its timeless natural light into the store, making it and classic pieces that are continually an inviting space to shop at. being reinvented season after season. "This is an exciting moment for The pieces you pick up us, opening our first store in New from COS will take Zealand. Auckland is such a vibrant you through various and cultural city and we feel it is the events, places and times. perfect location for our first store in This new retail the market," said Christoffer Selling, store in Newmarket Managing Director for COS APAC. will stretch between Open today, check out the new COS two levels with store now.
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Maxima and MECCA Cosmetica stores together. This will be a sight to see, as they bring two large ideas into one for the enjoyment of both staff and their customers. "Auckland is growing and so The Auckland beauty-scape has been reimagined when Australian beauty are we. MECCA is thrilled to be opening in the CBD's latest retail powerhouse, MECCA, entered the development with an incredible scene. new store...it will be a unique It continues to change the game retail environment tailored to how by bringing a convenient stop at our New Zealand customers shop Commercial Bay this month. beauty," said MECCA's country The highly anticipated shopping precinct has been slowly announcing manager, Carly Emery. MECCA Commercial Bay will the brands that will be presented this be the 14th MECCA store in New month. The MECCA Commerical Zealand and will be open on the Bay store will bring the retail 28th of March 2020. concepts of both the MECCA
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6 I March 2020
trade talks
PROTECTING YOUR DESIGNS USING COPYRIGHT LAW JUST GOT EASIER By Jenni Rutter, Partner and Nadia Ormiston, Associate at Dentons Kensington Swan.
Is anything in fashion truly new? The industry is known for being fast-paced and built on copying or at least ‘inspiration’ from others. With designers challenged more than ever to keep ahead of trends and to stay relevant, the risk of designs being replicated by copycats remains a real problem for Kiwi designers. The New Zealand fashion industry isn’t immune to the pressures faced by international designers. We clearly compete on a world stage - the March 2020 Times Magazine cover of Jacinda Ardern in an Ingrid Starnes blouse is a fabulous example. Last year we saw allegations of copying by Adrienne Winkelmann, and others have been left red-faced in the past from similar accusations. As a designer, it’s often possible to take a stand if your original design is copied. A basic understanding of the intellectual property in your designs will help you do this. Even better, a recent Court decision in the UK involving a jacquard fabric design has made it easier than before to prevent copying of designs that don’t easily fit into the ‘artistic works’ category of copyright. The UK Court even relied on an old New Zealand case involving a Bonz® hand knitted jumper. Intrigued? Read on.
WHAT IP RIGHTS DO I HAVE IN MY DESIGNS?
Brands are extremely valuable assets, but when it comes to clothing and apparel designs, your main IP asset is copyright. Copyright is a freebie – it exists as soon as you create a design that is original (i.e. not copied from elsewhere). Unlike other IP rights, you don’t need to register copyright and in New Zealand there is in fact no registration system, unlike the USA and China. Thanks to international copyright laws, your New Zealand copyright is also recognised in numerous countries around the world – again at no charge to you. Copyright can exist in several works underlying a garment or accessory, e.g. a drawing, the first pattern produced, the sample garment, original textiles or fabric designs. Copyright generally doesn’t extend to the final garment itself because it doesn’t fit into one of the protected categories. Copyright in a clothing design generally lasts for 16 years from the date when 50 garments are made for sale. When has copyright in your design been infringed? When someone has actually copied (i.e. didn’t come up with the same design independently) and the copy is objectively similar to your design. The more original a design is, the easier it is to prove it was copied. Infringement is a question of quality, not quantity. If the most original element of your design is an intricate right sleeve and that is copied, that could be enough to infringe copyright in your entire design.
HOW CLOSE IS CLOSE ENOUGH?
This is the million dollar question in any copyright dispute. There is no rule that changing five elements or a certain percent of a work is okay, this is a myth. If someone copies a painting, it’s usually easy to prove copyright infringement because most paintings
have a high level of originality. But if someone copies a standard jacket design, proving infringement will be harder because the level of originality will be low, and all the common or functional design features will need to be discounted when assessing how close the copycat garment is.
A NEW DEVELOPMENT IN COPYRIGHT LAW MAY IMPROVE PROTECTION FOR NZ DESIGNERS
A recent decision from the UK Intellectual Property Enterprise Court involving a high street top made from a jacquard fabric has made it possible for some clothing designs to fall into a fairly rare category of copyright works known as works of ‘artistic craftsmanship’.
This category applies to works for which there are no drawings or protoypes, for example, woven, knitted garments or fabrics. It was previously thought that only handmade articles produced in small numbers would qualify, but this new decision suggests clothing and fabric designs can be protected even if they are created using a machine and even if multiple copies are made and sold. This decision changes our thinking on the scope of ‘artistic craftsmanship’ and suggests that it could be used by fashion designers to help prevent copying of their clothing designs. An added bonus for our fashion industry is that the UK Court relied on a New Zealand decision from 1994 involving Bonz® knitted jumpers featuring skiing kiwis and the like. The Bonz decision looked at whether handknitted jumpers could be seen as works of ‘artistic craftsmanship’. There were no underlying design drawings, so Bonz would have struggled to
prevent its iconic jumpers being copied if they weren’t considered works of artistic craftsmanship. While handknitting a jumper could easily be viewed as ‘craftsmanship’, the Court was unsure whether the jumpers were ‘artistic’ or not. The question of what artistic means will probably continue to give judges a headache for some time to come and this is where expert evidence from the industry will be helpful. The fact that machine-created fabrics and other items can qualify for copyright protection as works of artistic craftsmanship is good news for New Zealand designers. This new interpretation of the category seems to line up with modern commercial reality, where machines and computers are frequently employed in the design phase. This is particularly true in the textile manufacturing industry. Let’s hope our own Courts now take a leaf out of the UK’s book. This decision should also be positive for our textile designers, particularly those creating unique Māori and Pacific designs that incorporate woven elements, where sketches aren’t necessarily made beforehand. This new approach to works of artistic craftsmanship may help close a gap in this area and give designers more protection against copying. An added benefit is that copyright in works of artistic craftsmanship lasts for 25 years instead of 16.
HOW CAN I PROTECT MY COPYRIGHT?
• Keep records of your designs throughout the design phase. • Add the copyright symbol ©, your name and the date to all your original works. This helps prove ownership if you have a dispute. • If you have someone else making designs for you or with you, make sure that ownership of copyright is dealt with in a written agreement. If you think someone has copied your designs and you’re concerned, call a lawyer who specialises in IP.
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