Apparel Magazine // March 2015

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MARCH 2015 I VOL 48 I NO 3

Sailor Vie pg 16

04 20 22 26

NEWS THE CAT’S PYJAMAS RADAR PARIS FASHION WEEK

FASHIONABLE

EDITOR’S letter WHEN 1620 consumers were tested under laboratory conditions, 63 percent said they feel their heart rate increase when they thought about receiving great customer service, probably because receiving great customer service triggers the same cerebral reactions as feeling loved. Despite brands and companies are creating the hype around new customer service technologies, concepts and trends but are customers feeling the love?

There are many new technologies and trends that can help brands offer better service to consumers, but few brands understand that regardless of changes, the fundamentals of great service remain the same.

Customers still want to feel recognised, listened to and valued. Finding new ways around age-old necessities, reveal the smart brands.

In 2013, 66 percent of consumers around the world switched brands or business due to poor customer service, and some 82 per cent of those who switched said the brand could have done something to stop them. Millions of consumers worldwide are at a wits end with ineffective virtual assistance by web or phone, if they can video call their grandmother why can’t they video call the brand? Now, forward thinking brands are finally doing just that, by providing webcam enabled face-to-face interaction with their customer service representatives when the customers need it.

Customers using a Kindle Fire HDX tablet have the option to click the Amazon Mayday button that connects them to an Amazon customer service representative via webcam. Now 75 percent of customer service interactions come via the button.

However, video interactions don’t just have to be

about customer questions or complaints. Video interactions can offer customers new experiences, trials and tests.

In 2014, B2C e-commerce sales totaled US$1.5 trillion globally. Brands like JeansOnline and Lamoda have delivery options where the courier will wait 15 minutes and take back unwanted items.

Smart sensors, face and object recognition technologies and wearable devices allow brands to gather and analyse information about their customers.

Marketers are calling it a brands sixth sense and it is expected to develop further this year with bricks and mortar stores using real time data to shape and enhance the service they receive.

This month celebrates New Zealand designers reaching milestones, including Jimmy D turning 10, Amber Whitecliffe turning one and Trish Peng opening a pop-up store. Congratulations to all brands and companies reaching milestones this month.

Enjoy the issue.

Sarah

sarah@reviewmags.com

READS

Alexander McQueen

by Claire Wilcox A definitive guide to the creative mind of one of Britain’s most brilliant and provocative designers, Alexander McQueen. Accompanying the Victoria & Albert Museum’s landmark exhibition, Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, expert fashion commentators and cultural scholars discuss the richness and complexity of McQueen’s vision among intimate backstage images, unpublished sketches and a specially commissioned in detail photo shoot .

ON THE COVER: CAMILLA AND MARC Lambertian Coat STAPLE + CLOTH Golden Days Dress in Pale Blue MILLIE ELDER-HOLMES Protection Studs in Gold MILLIE ELDER-HOLMES Protection Necklace in Gold

#fringing Fashioning the Body: An Intimate History of the Silhouette

by Denis Bruna An indiscreet tour of intimate fashion history, Fashioning the Body tracks the industry and artistic evolution of sartorial devices from codpieces and crinolines to push-up bras and clasps. Over 200 illustrations and witty commentary create a unique survey of contrivances made to entice, beguile and assert status. Contemporary haute-couture designers such as Thierry Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier are added to the mix that accompanies an exhibition at the Bard Graduate Center, New York.

PUBLISHER EDITOR SALES & MARKETING SALES & EDITORIAL COORDINATOR EDITORIAL ASSITANT ADVERTISING SALES SENIOR DESIGNER

Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Jessica-Belle Greer - jessica@reviewmags.com Thomas Fowler - tommie@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com

2 I March 2015

PHOTOGRAPHER CIRCULATION/ADMIN

Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com

ISSN 1171-2287

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2015 NZ Apparel Magazine.

Fifty Fashion Designers That Changed the World

by The Design Museum and Lauren Cochrane It’s only appropriate that a collection of the 50 most illustrious, innovative tastemakers of the fashion world is met with stunning photography, detailed information and overarching stories. From Coco Chanel to Paul Smith, ingenious and influential designers are profiled by The Design Museum and fashion writer for The Guardian, Lauren Cochrane.

Let us help you make the best match.

Call JACQUI 09 309 5020 or visit www.nzfashiontech.ac.nz

news

BABY BAN AT FASHION WEEK

United States Vogue editor, Anna Wintour is lobbying to ban babies from the front row of Fashion Week and has reportedly told designers at London Fashion Week that children will not be allowed to sit in the front row of their shows.

The move towards a baby-ban was allegedly prompted following the front-row tantrums thrown by North West, the daughter of Kim Kardashian and Kanye West.

SHOTOVER ST FLAGSHIPS

Queenstown will be home to two new brands in June this year. The North Face concept store and Queenstown’s first Barkers location will take up residence at 6/38 Shotover Street. Bakerloo Holdings will redesign the ground floor space in time for Winterfest in June.

“We’re delighted to announce the upcoming opening of the first The North Face retail concept store outside of Auckland in Bakerloo’s building”, said Simon McChesney-Clark, GM of Retail at True Alliance.

“The Barkers brand has been significantly repositioned of the past three years. Queenstown has long been a gap in our coverage, and with the A grade retail space Bakerloo are developing, plus customer demand, we decided the opportunity was right for us,” said Jamie Whiting, managing director of Barkers.

HOTMILK LAUNCHES NURSING BRA

The new J cup nursing bra, Lure, from Hotmilk will hit stores around the globe from October 2015. Orders for this style have already been so strong that a second colour-way will follow in November. The supportive nursing bra, available up to a J cup, is smooth under clothing and features flat lace panelling and silky soft microfibre. A flexible underwire offers a higher level of support and expands and flexes with the body, reducing pressure on the breast tissue. “This design was created over the past four years from in-depth discussions with our customers and retailers on what was missing in the market and we really fell this flexi wired J cup answers all those needs,” said head designer Wendy Fellows.

4 I March 2015

GLASSONS GETS NEW LOOK

In a bid to stand out in the specialty fashion market, womenswear retailer Glassons will be rolling out a new store design in New Zealand after unveiling the new concept late last year in Sydney’s Westfield at Bondi Junction. The first store to have the new look will be at the company’s new site in Christchurch’s CBD at the new ANZ Centre building.

A two level store will be home to the group’s two brands, Glassons and Hallensteins, featuring digital screens, inspirational displays and upbeat music. “For Glassons in New Zealand it is more about putting that new fitout into new locations,” said Graeme Popplewell, CEO of Hallenstein Glasson. In Australia, Popplewell said the company will be carefully selecting new locations and rollout would be based more on sites, rather than numbers. “Expansion is more about getting the right location, that are geographically correct and also fit the brand,” he said.

EUPHORIA INTRODUCE NEW RANGES

New Zealand apparel brand Euphoria has released two new ranges as well as launching its autumn/winter 2015 range. Understudy is a range featuring timeless black essentials that are designed to pair with collection pieces, or worn as separates. Crafted from quality fabric, they are go-to pieces perfect for layering throughout the year. CODE has also been launched as a modern and edgy sister brand to Euphoria but with a cleaner, more effortless approach. The new AW15 collection from Euphoria, Together and Apart, represents the versatility of the garments that can be interchanged creating different looks. All pieces from Euphoria, CODE and Understudy collections are made in New Zealand.

news

NAOMI WATTS FOR SPORTSCRAFT

OCTOBER OPENING FOR CENTRE

Development of the NorthWest Shopping Centre in Auckland is on track to open in October.

Part of Westgate Town Centre, one of the largest urbanisation projects in Auckland, the centre is adjacent to the existing shopping centre and will service a catchment area of 475,000 people that live within a 15 minute drive.

The centre will house a Farmers department store, and 100 specialty retail stores.

“We expect the fact that the centre will open as a complete complex will appeal to those who want an attractive and accessible shopping experience from day one, and we look forward to meeting the community’s expectations,” said Jennifer Andrews, NorthWest Shopping Centre manager.

“We have already secured a strong fashion mix anchored by some iconic New Zealand and Australian brands,” she said.

The centre spans 27,000sqm and will be owned, developed and managed by DNZ Property Fund.

SCOTTIE FINDS LOVE

Agatha Paris’ Scottie dog has been an icon of the brand for over 40 years, and in a big development for the brand Scottie finds the love of his life – Lady Scottie.

The brand has introduced a jewellery collection featuring Lady Scottie. Pendants, bracelets, brooches and rings in sterling silver and other metals offer the interplay of contrasting light and shadow to reveal openwork detail and delicate contours.

RUBY LAUNCHES HANA COLLECTION

Japanese for flower, Hana is the perfect namesake for the ultra-feminine and spirited RUBY Autumn/ Winter 2015 collection. Shot by accomplished Australian photographer Steven Chee and featuring bright-eyed American model Roxanne, the Hana campaign captures a sense of calm, balance and beauty that reflects the exploration of yin and yang within the collection. “The collection’s palette of red, sweet cherry blossom, ocean blue and cool mint are complimented in our latest campaign by the striking red backdrop and muted Japaneseinspired furniture,” said designer Deanna Didovich.

FOLLOWING its 100th anniversary in 2014, Sportscraft have announced Naomi Watts as its new brand ambassador and the face of its autumn campaign. “Sportscraft represents all the things that are a part of me: a workingwoman, a mother, someone who wants to look classic and well put together,” said Watts.

The announcement falls in line with the brands dedication to Australian style and home-grown talent. For Sportscraft, Autumn 2015 incorporates luxurious textures and lightweight layers with a palette of silver, grey, soft pinks and whites. In line with current overseas trends Sportscraft has a subtle nautical narrative running throughout the collection with key pieces including neutralhued cable knits, striped tees and denim staples.

EZIBUY LAUNCH THE BRAND STORE

AS PART of an effort to diversify and attract different customers, Woolworths owned retail group EziBuy have launched a new online shopping experience, The Brand Store. Labels on the site include Lacoste, Levi, Monsoon, Riders, Superdry, Tony Bianco, Triumph, and Calvin Klein Underwear, with despatch coming from the EziBuy Palmerston North distribution centre. As an added convenience customers can opt for a simply collect service where garments can be picked up from select EziBuy stores across New Zealand. Myles Taylor, merchandise director at EziBuy said The Brand Store is the new hub for online shopping. He went on to explain how the consumer searching for wardrobe essentials or looking for new trend pieces will be greeted by a vast selection for women, men, youth and children, with options for each customers style.

DHL EXPRESS NEW GATEWAY FACILITY

World leading international express services provider DHL Express is undergoing an extensive renovation of its Auckland gateway facility to double the size of its processing capabilities. Due to strong ongoing demand for inbound freight, DHL Express has opted to increase its investment in the New Zealand market with a NZ$15.3 million upgrade, linking all of New Zealand to a network of 220 countries and territories globally, and allowing New Zealand importers and exporters to trade in the global marketplace more efficiently than before. The upgrade of the Auckland facility will include expanding DHL’s processing facility by almost double, increasing its sorting capacity by 192 per cent to accommodate increased demand from around New Zealand. The new warehouse area is approximately 5000 square metres and is set to open later this year.

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news

AMBER WHITECLIFFE TURNS ONE

Designer Amber Whitecliffe and her eponymous brand have celebrated a year in the business.

Despite having some ups and downs, Whitecliffe wouldn’t change anything. “I have learnt so much about my brand and myself and feel very proud at what I have achieved,” said Whitecliffe.

“I always get a real buzz when I see someone wearing their AW garment.” The designer has recently been making more custom dresses during the wedding season. This year Whitecliffe hopes to grow her brand and after a trip to India in January she is working on her next collection with some incredible new fabrics.

TRISH PENG OPENS POP-UP

New Zealand designer Trish Peng has opened up a pop-up store for the month of March in Auckland’s suburb of Parnell.

The designer studied Fashion Design at Whitecliffe, and launched her eponymous label in 2012 with an evening collection.

Her label embodies feminine luxe that identifies with her passion for creating clothes to make women feel beautiful. With an elegant style and strong understanding of fit, tailoring and the woman’s body, her designs evoke a sense of exotic luxury woven with a distinctive aesthetic.

Peng showed her Spring/Summer collection at NZ Fashion Week in 2014 which included the launch of her new accessible ready-to-wear line ‘Trish by Trish Peng’.

Her new collection is lush and exquisite, ranging from beautiful daywear to ethereal fine evening and meticulously ornate bridal.

BING HARRIS CLOSES SHOP

Bing Harris, sister brand to Rodd and Gunn – is set to shut its remaining five New Zealand stores mid-march following the decision to cease trading. Staff within the Bing Harris family have all been offered alternative jobs within the company, or left prior to closing.

“All store leases have been assigned and out of 120 people there is one redundancy. This is not a fire sale or slash and burn, it is an orderly close down whilst we redirect our capital investment and resources into our USA business,” said Rodd and Gunn managing director Michael Beagley. Accent Group have taken-up the leases in an effort to expand its retail presence with the success of stores like Platypus, Timberland, Skechers and Vans.

6 I March 2015

HISTORIC TIES

The photo hanging on the wall in the reception lounge captures the imagination of every visitor to Parisian, New Zealand’s oldest tie and belt maker. The 1933 line up of the company’s staff stretching along the front of their Lorne St factory in the heart of Auckland shows a snapshot of a bygone era.

Their facial expressions, hairstyles, outfits, all show individuality and are reflective of their time. John Crompton, the company’s current managing director and fourth generation of the founding family, enjoys pointing out his great grandfather, grandfather and great aunts who all stand there.

“Aunty Ollie who passed away at 98 a few years ago, having spent 63 years working in the business, was always thought to be the last person known in the photo,” said Crompton. When Jane Vogels contacted Digby (John’s father), and mentioned her mother had worked for Parisian in the 1930s, there was great anticipation in the possibility of a visit. Her mother, Charlotte Cawson (nee Garrod) had often spoken to her daughters about the happy time she spent working at Parisian and this spurned Jane to make contact.

In December Mrs Cawson and her three daughters, were welcomed into the reception lounge. At 95, a splendid lady, full of bright energy, drew on clear memories of her time at the company. She named several of the women in the photo including herself and her elder sister Phyllis. In the height of

the depression, Charlotte had got the job at Parisian through her sister. She described the atmosphere as a wonderful sisterhood.

They worked hard but loved the job and the company of girls they worked with, under the direction of founder, Callil Abdallah.

Times were hard and it was a privilege to have a job, Mrs Cawson would have been only 14 at the time of the photo.

Also present in the photo was Barney Crompton (62 years with the company), Joe Weir (52 years), Olive Abdallah (63 years), Chum Wright (35 years). Since that time, there have been a number of staff that have worked for Parisian for over 30 years including three that are still with the company. Mrs Cawson was also shown a sepia tone photo of the Parisian Netball Team of 1933, and recalled the names of most of the squad.

After her generous time regaling her daughters, Digby and John with her fond memories, she visited the tie factory and was instantly at home seaming a tie, much to the delight of the current staff.

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news

STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB FLAGSHIP

New Zealand brand Stolen Girlfriends Club has announced they will be opening a flagship store in Auckland shopping district, Newmarket. The opening date is yet to be confirmed.

FROM NZ TO NY

LILY ALLEN FOR HENRY HOLLAND

International eyewear brand House of Holland enters 2015 with an exciting new collection and campaign featuring British pop icon Lily Allen.

The punchy new campaign features Allen as the ultimate House of Holland girl, cool, confident, and irreverent in the new look eyewear range against a backdrop of sugary pastels.

“I have been a friend of Henry’s and fan of HOH for years and jumped at the chance to be involved with the campaign. I fell lucky to be able to continually collaborate with HOH for both my stage wear and life wear; they smash it like no one else can,” said Allen.

Holland said that this collection is his favourite to date.

“I love all the styles and feel like we have achieved some killer frames. Lily was the right choice as we have been collaborating a lot of the last year and it’s always fun to work with friends. Shooting with Danielle Levitt was the icing on the cake,” said Holland.

New Zealand label Frances Jerard’s ultra feminine NZ to NY collection has walked the J Spring Fashion Show 2015 over the Hudson River on a 100-metre floating glass runway. Model and entrepreneur Jessica Minh Anh coordinated the show on the Hudson River’s giant glass boat.

The famous New York skyline was a new dazzling backdrop for Minh Anh, who has produced a host of runways in breathtaking locations including the Eiffel Tower and Grand Canyon Skywalk. The event celebrates the rise of a new generation of creative leaders. The combination of haute couture, high end ready-to-wear, and luxury accessory collections from four continents embrace tradition and experiment with innovative techniques and modern designs.

“Minh Anh head hunted me because she loves my brand, the use of colour, texture, design and femininity. She loves my extraordinary personality - I launched Frances Jerard by jumping off the Auckland Sky Tower in a Ball gown. She loves the fact that I take risks,” said designer of Frances Jerard, Wendy Jerard. The NZ to NY collection entails suits, cocktail wear, eveningwear, and daywear. Jerard, who showed at the 2014 New Zealand Fashion Week New Generation runway, is riding the high. “What I would love from this international exposure is to get the opportunity to work alongside an already established fashion house developing my brand in partnership with someone,” said Jerard.

NEW SITE FOR COTTON ON

A new global multi-channel strategy has been launched by The Cotton On Group, and is set to roll out across its stable of brands including Supre. Partnering with e-commerce consultancy, Amblique, the new platform has had a record amount of visits and sales since its release. Accessible on multiple devices, the website incorporates eight brands in multiple geographies. Customised offerings will soon be available for Asian and South African customers. “We’ve placed an emphasis on delivering a site that replicates what customers experience when they visit our bricks and mortar stores, whilst providing seamless functionality end to end,” said Marshal Mclean, marketing and e-commerce group executive from Cotton On Group. “We’re thrilled by the Cyber Monday results as it reassures us that the site is delivering what our customers now expect from us online,” added Peter Johnson, Cotton On Group CEO.

FASHION START UP WINS FUNDING

A website that allows girls to give fashion and shopping advice to guys has won seed funding and business advice that will give them the opportunity to pitch their business to 200 angel investors. Wear it Her Way was just one of the 200 entrants selected to receive assistance from digital accelerator, Lightening Lab. With a lack of shopping confidence himself, entrepreneur Liam Houlahan has built his new business after seeing that men don’t always have a built in sense of style. Men who are stuck for ideas and inspiration, can sign up to the website and post requests or ask for recommendations.

Women can then go on the site and suggest garments and accessories from a selection of brands.

Houlahan and business partner Amaka Geffler, look to grow the site and mobile accessibility.

8 I March 2015

DJ REDESIGNS

Retail and design agency Dalziel and Pow have been appointed to create design concepts for the David Jones store portfolio. New owners, Woolworths South Africa, plan to double spending on stores, visual merchandising, and systems in an attempt to transform the 177-year-old retailer. New owners are keen to take back marketshare from other department stores, incoming global brands and specialty retailers. “This is a great opportunity for us to create something powerful in the region, capitalising on the expansive brief and the skills and the enthusiasm of the client team,” said David Dalziel, founder and creative director at Dalziel and Pow.

news

WORLD RE-OPENS IN WELLINGTON

Having celebrated 25 years in the business last year, WOLRD has now celebrated 24 years in the capital Wellington and with this comes a change in format with the opening of its deluxe store.

Having closed their Victoria store in December 2014, work began immediately with the knocking down of walls to incorporate the area next door, which opened this month to reveal a large, airy and magnificent retail space.

The new store at 102 Victoria Street has now been able to incorporate WORLD Beauty Store that has moved into the new premises carrying on WORLD’S original concept. The opening coincides with WORLD’S winter launch, supplying the perfect backdrop for a directional collection of absorbing geometric detailing and textural nuance.

WAITARA WELCOMING

Businesswoman and designer Tessa Bailey-Lont has returned to her hometown Waitara, Taranaki, to open a store, showroom and studio space named The Studio. Bailey-Lont’s labels include custom made Rauwhiro, Pugstyle menswear, Lady Like ready-to-wear and Money Underwear Club and Lontessa lingerie. Rauwhiro is the main label on show at The Studio and fittingly, the aim of this label is to incorporate a cultural identity into comfortable simplified clothing. Bailey-Lont is settling into The Studio after being away from her hometown for 15 years. The support from the local Waitara community has helped her promote sustainability through local manufacturing and services while developing her labels and providing dressmaking services to the area.

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news

STUDENT DESIGNS FOR GLASSONS

Third-year design students at Otago Polytechnic are partnering with womenswear retailer Glassons aspect of the company’s new brand strategy, Made of Here. The strategy was introduced last year by Glassons and is a reference to its New Zealand roots that go back to its establishment in 1926. “This gives students the possibility to launch their career in a manner most could only dream of, said Glassons marketing director Anna Murray. “Along the way, they will get some valuable commercial insights into the fast moving world of fashion retail in Australasia,” she added.

LIZ MITCHELL FOR ZIERA Ziera Shoes has commissioned fashion designer Liz Mitchell to design a Ziera shopping bag in an initiative to raise funds for women’s charity Dress for Success. Proceeds from the bag, which will be sold through Ziera Australia and New Zealand stores, will go to Dress for Success. Liz Mitchell has been

10 I March 2015

involved with Dress for Success for many years, supporting different fundraising activities.

“I have watched women rise above their difficult circumstances and re-approach their lives boldly and positively imbued with that strength that comes from the Dress for Success team,” said Mitchell. The inspiration for the design of the bag came from Ziera’s AW15 season’s mood board and the brand’s strong visual identity. The multicoloured iconic zigzag pattern references Renaissance Florentine embroideries that have also been interpreted by Missoni knitwear.

“Liz has captured the brief perfectly creating a stylish and fashionable bag that we know women will want, and that they will reuse over and over again,” said group marketing manager, Nicky Dunn. The bag is made from a nonwoven material that makes it water resistant, soft and light.

NEW MACHINE FOR BROTHER NZ

Brother’s most powerful and technologically advanced sewing, embroidery and quilting machine has arrived in New Zealand. Paving the way in creative thinking, Brother is excited to unveil this latest industry-first innovation. The highly anticipated Innov-is XV combines sewing, embroidery and quilting handcrafts and boasts groundbreaking technology including more than 30 patent and patent pending innovations. Brother chief operating officer, Matthew Stroud said the team is thrilled to launch the new machine. “We’re proud to continuously deliver ground-breaking products to our customers.

Last year, we wowed crafters with the launch of the world’s fist home and hobby cutting machine, the ScanNCut. Now, we’re able to go a step further with the Innov-is XV – the next generation product that heroes our innovative, user-centric and forward-thinking ethos,” said Stroud.

JIMMY D TURNS 10

After working in retail in London and completing a degree in Wellington, designer James Dobson knew he wanted to become a designer and launched his brand in 2005.

Since then the Jimmy D label has become known for it’s dark, but darkly humorous aesthetic. “Contrasts are at the heart of what I do,” said Dobson. “I love mixing fine silks with printed tee shirting, masculine elements with feminine, sporty with luxe.”

Dobson attributes his success and longevity to loyal customers and retailers that have supported the brand over the years. This year the brand celebrates ten years in business and has no plans of slowing down. Dobson hopes to look for agents in Japan and Europe and after a decade in business feels completely reinvigorated and focused on the future of the brand. Apart from celebrating ten years, Dobson is most proud of his fashion week shows and being featured in Te Papa’s book on New Zealand Fashion.

accessory alert

BLUNT UMBERLLAS

TOPSHOP OPENS IN QUEEN ST

UK retail giant Topshop has landed on New Zealand shores opening their first dedicated store on Auckland’s Queen Street. The new store operates under a licence owned by Karen Walker and Barkers and spans 1300sqm. The two-storey retail space is home to both Topshop and Topman and includes selected products of the footwear and accessories range. With up to 300 new styles a week and stocking 45,000 items across 2300 styles, the demand for the brand is expected to exceed all previous retail openings in the country. Until now, Topshop has been available for the last five years at Auckland’s The Department Store.

FOUNDER Greig Brebner and his team at Blunt have sharp ideas about changing consumers’ perceptions of umbrellas. Instead of shoddy umbrellas at the forefront of throwaway culture, Blunt merges a revolutionary design with the values of quality workmanship. BLUNT umbrellas have been heralded by the Wall Street Journal as a waste solution for breakable umbrellas. Some umbrellas even include a locator device using the Tile app to ensure the umbrella is not left lying around and can be found if misplaced. The patented Radial Tensioning System (RTS) design involves strong struts arranged in a robust and aerodynamic fiberglass structure that can withstand 70mph wind - wind tunnel tested with National Geographic no less. A range of designs are available, including a golf umbrella with an ergonomic sport handle, an umbrella with reflectors for nighttime, a canopy that provides 99.99% sunlight protection and mini, collapsible and light weight versions of the classic umbrella.

A&F EXIT AUSTRALIA

A challenging Australian retail market has proved difficult for US retailer, Abercrombie & Fitch with the company confirming it is closing its two Hollister & Co stores and exiting the local market. After opening in April 2012, the executive VP and CFO Joanne Crevoiserat said the performance of the Australian stores had been disappointing. “We therefore decided during the quarter to activate the provision in our leases which enables us to make a country exit and close those stores around the end of fiscal 2015,” she said.

Designer Jewellery by Georgia Hatzis www.lovefromvenus.com.au

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footwear news

PLATYPUS TO LAUNCH EIGHT STORES OVER TWO MONTHS AFTER securing the lease for the now closed Bing Harris stores, Accent Group is expanding its New Zealand retail presence with the announcement of eight new Platypus stores coming over the next two months.

Platypus launched onto the New Zealand retail space in April 2013 with its Queen Street store, which led quickly to the opening of shops in both Albany and St Lukes. As a destination for on trend sneakers, the brand snapped up the opportunity to expand its retail offering on a national level, with stores planned for Sylvia Park, Onehunga, Hamilton, Wellington and Christchurch.

“The success of the current Platypus stores in Auckland and how excited our

customers are has meant we are now able to offer this to the rest of New Zealand,” said Matt Hapgood, general manager for Platypus Shoes.

Platypus is the premium retailer of brands like – Vans, Converse, Nike, Adidas, Dr Martens and New Balance, and holds the widest assortment of styles in the sneaker market. With the expansion, Platypus will continue to retail limited and exclusive stock from brands such as Nike, Asics Gel, Palladium and Supra.

Platypus Sylvia Park is first in line with an opening date set for 12 March, followed by Riccarton – 25 March, Centre Place Hamilton – 1 April, Queensgate – 10 April, and finally Onehunga – 22 April.

FROM PASSION TO A BUDDING BUSINESS

SINCE its inception in 2004, the YOURS brand has developed from a sneaker obsession into a booming footwear label.

Designer Andrew Henry has collected sneakers from before he can remember, and after a short run as a professional sportsman his love for shoes has led him into a business that is growing from strength to strength. In 2009 the first YOURS production run arrived, and launched a lifelong dream into a reality. Deep into his third run Henry has developed and grown the brand into a design house dedicated to simple, clean and premium products.

Henry attributes his success to collaborations with likeminded creatives, having worked with various graphic designers, filmmakers and photographers to grow the trajectory of the brand. With a strong fan base within New Zealand, Henry is now working on his international footprint, with a strong online presence to help tap into the increasing global market. “We’re at a point where the training wheels are well off and the brand is getting a huge amount of demand overseas. I guess it has gained a bit of a cult status in a world dominated by mass production,” said Henry. With ambitions on expansion, Henry is looking to likeminded investors to help grow the business and is already in talks with high-profile names both in New Zealand and North America.

ANDREA MOORE SNEAKERS HIT STORES

PART of the diffusion label I AM, the much anticipated sneaker collection from the Andrea Moore house is now in stores.

The sneakers feature custom prints from some of Andrea Moore’s best-selling prevous ranges Scotty Dogs and Kiss Kiss. The sneakers however are just a lead up to the next big thing to come from the label, a range of leather boots and shoes set to arrive in April. Available now in 20 stores across the country, the sneakers are set at a competitive price point for the luxury footwear market.

KATHRYN WILSON MOVES FURTHER INTO CHILDRENSWEAR

WITH the overwhelming success of her eponymous label and diffusion brands, Kathryn Wilson ahs moved deeper into the childrenswear sector with the launch of Baby Wilson for autumn 2015. Appropriately timed, new mother Kathryn Wilson has created a range of unisex footwear styles for infants aged from six to eighteen months. Each piece is crafted from supple calf leather in shades of cream, ink and black, with polka dot accents throughout. Baby Wilson launched in late February, starting with the unveiling of the lace-up bootie Lola.

12 I March 2015

SKECHERS SOFTEST WALKING SHOE YET

FIFTY per cent shoe and fifty per cent sock, the Skechers Gowalk 2 Supersock is a slipon, virtually seamless footwear solution fot he cool autumn months. The range covers a bold selection of colours including hot pink, light and bright blues, orange, green and yellow. The shoe utilises Skechers’ innovative performace technologies and materials designed specifically for walking. Key features of the Gowalk 2 Supersock include V-Stride technology with a unique angled outsole to complement a natural stride, OrthoLite anti-microbial sock liner to help inhibit odour and prevent slippage, resalyte midsole to absorb impact, circular Goimpulse sensors to offer a more responsive walking experience and multi-directional tration motif to help enhance footing control.

The range is avalbale at all Sekechers stores, including the latest flagship store in Albanym and stockists nationwide.

SALES DROP FOR HELLABY’S

COLD weather in the first half of the financial year translated into a three per cent drop in sales for Hellaby’s footwear brands Hannahs, Hush Puppies, Pulp and Number One Shoes.

Despite better margins and cost improvements, total sales for Hellaby’s footwear cam in at $68.5 million. The number has been attributed to cold and wet weather in the second quarter which delayed summer sales.

As New Zealand’s largest footwear retail group, Hellaby’s operates 115 stores nationwide. Its largest brand Hannahs runs 51 stores, followed by Number One Shoes with 45, Hush Puppies with 10 and three Pulp stores with an additional one in Australia.

footwear news

NIKE LAUNCHES SNKRS APP

WITH its brand-new app, SNKRS, the swoosh is giving users the chance to access the men’s and women’s catalog for some of its biggest franchises, including Air Force 1, Air Max and Jordan, among others.

The athletic company is no stranger to the app game, with its hugely popular Nike+ Training (which acts as your own personal trainer) and Nike+ Running (so you can track your route in addition to measuring key metrics: calories, pace, distance, etc.), but this marks a more product-focused turn for the retailer.

ADIDAS CLOSES AT A LOSS

ENDED December 31, 2014, Adidas reported a massive loss of just over NZ$200 million.

The company attributed much of its loss to the hit it took on the sale of the Rockport brand in January. The company also struggled with a slowing golf market and further decline in the Russian-ruble exchange rate.

“2014 was a year with ups and downs for the Adidas Group. But we tackled the challenges resolutely and achieved our adjusted top- and bottom-line targets,” said Herbert Hainer, Adidas Group CEO in a statement. Hainer said the strong quarter performance in regions such as Latin America, Greater China and Western Europe “shows the momentum at Adidas and Reebok is fully intact.”

KAREN WALKER PRESENTS GARDEN PEOPLE

INSPIRED by photographer Valerie Finnis, New Zealand designer Karen Walker has launched a collection derived from post-WW2 English imagery.

Titled Garden People, the pieces paid specific attention to subject matter of society gardeners who paired formality with function effortlessly. The collection also saw the expansion of Karen Walkers footwear range, allowing the designer to explore the possibilities of fashion and versatility. Whilst the core elements of Karen Walker are rooted in utility, Garden People showcased the creative execution of what is becoming a globally recognised brand, and delivered a well thought out and on trend offering of pieces.

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I 13

behind the business

The industry according to . . .

LIZ MITCHELL “I began my fashion design business with bridal and that was a very strong part of our business and really helped us to grow relationships with our clients. There’s been a big change in this market and that’s evolved with the power of the internet and people being able to buy online at seemingly affordable prices. Clothing that is so cheap has come with a terrible cost to the manufacturing work force and our environment.

The last period has been impacted by the global financial recession and a younger wave of people being able to access things from around the world and that’s changed our business. We’ve just had to be flexible and adapt to new opportunities in the market. I’ve returned to my roots with bespoke because it’s an experience that can’t be bought online – tailoring for a special occasion and the uniqueness can’t be bought. That’s what we’re focusing on right now, as well as being supported by digital marketing, Facebook etc to help promote what we’re doing.

Being able to share the working process of bespoke online is fantastic – though it’s not the same as being the client! I think fast fashion has had a huge impact on the fashion market – the chain store, Zara, H&M, being able to produce fashion trends so quickly and

ANNAH STRETTON

“Digital disruption, understand it and embrace it or have your business operations become obsolete.

Having just returned from a NZ Global Woman trip to San Francisco and Silicon Valley, never have I been in a more reflective space and focused on how to ensure the longevity and growth of a fashion business through my bricks and mortar sites in NZ, whilst looking to amplify sales globally through the digital platforms.

Over the three days of introduction and learning in the valley I heard over and over of the seven million dollar sales revenues - all generated from businesses operating in the tech space - that had been set up with the intention to sell at international telephone number amounts. Sure there have been thousands of failures but as one speaker in the medical engineering space quoted, “If all your experiments work out, then you are not experimenting!”

14 I March 2015

Yes, failure is such an important precursor to the success that we all covert.

The fashion industry couldn’t be further from the business models that we visited. The juggernaut that is Google and the relatively new boy on the block, Twitter, are all advancing at speeds that none of us can really comprehend. But such pioneering thinking and operational processes are offering opportunities that could be extremely business-enabling should we just take the time to learn them and embrace them!

So does my research mean that the physical retail space will become the ‘cassette of the music world’? Quite the contrary as Restoration Hardware, a USA homeware retailer displayed with their new concept stores. The largest and most recently launched in Atlanta is over 70,000 square feet, a six-story design gallery. No longer a store but a huge multilevel showroom that resembles the most beautiful home and outdoor areas. In fact, if this brand were your preference, it would, I suggest, resemble your dream home, in a very visionary way. The marketing experience is supported by catalogues that rival the US House and Garden magazine and that no website could emulate. All of this gets their customer back into their physical spaces in droves.

To quote the CEO and Chairman Gary Friedman “We hope we will be a destination for inspiration, everywhere you look, you should see something beautiful.” With the retail landscape evolving due to the rise of e-commerce sales, more retailers are pushing away from traditional enclosed malls — which Friedman called “archaic windowless boxes lacking any sense of humanity”. Retail has changed - it has been disrupted.

Brand loyalty and engagement are paramount to survival! Stories told with authenticity are the way forward and unfortunately I can still remember when the good old advertisement in the local paper was all it took to ensure a continuum of trade.

I am excited, rather than apprehensive at all the new learnings and opportunities the digital platforms offer.

Working with consulting experts that can meld brick and click, often so much younger than myself, has become the backbone of my supporting framework for future planning. Change will always be a very necessary and healthy part of the business process and traditional retail models must remain nimble or risk falling into obsolescence.”

cheaply. That’s been the challenge for designers. But what’s happening now is that people are thinking “I’ve got a wardrobe full of clothes that I don’t actually love” – it’s a throwaway kind of mentality and society. I think younger people are thinking differently – having fewer things but with quality, having choices, being NZ made and an NZ designer is really important to show people your love for your craft, your experience – what you’re able to do for them and share that with them.”

RICHARD NIEPER

I am feeling positive about the NZ apparel and fashion industry. At time of writing Paymark have released impressive retail sale figures for December 2014, showing a 300 million dollar increase from the same time in 2013, plus an increase in number of transactions by almost 200,000.

These figures are impossible to show precise apparel spending, however the overall upward trend is comforting. The increased spending is no suprise, our shopping precincts look great, both Auckland CBD and Newmarket, and of course Ponsonby have undergone major renovation. Christchurch’s Cashel St Mall is very cool, showing such resourceful architectural design, and the same can be said for The Tannery. Both Wellington and Dunedin provide really comfortable shopping experiences, with concentrated shopping areas.

Day to day running of a rag trade business has never been easier, with online accounting software brands such as Xero, a business owner can save enormous costs in calculating there own tax, GST, and reports like a real time P & L, and more importantly providing us with instant data to the health of our business. NZ brands either manufacturing locally or importing, are facing more competition than ever, paticularly in Auckland, with the arrival of overseas brands such as Topshop, Zara, and Cotton On Queen St, bringing their international style of retailing. That said, I think as Kiwis we are parochial to NZ fashion, as we are also loyal to NZ art and music. That may leave the international brands to fight for the same dollar with the already established offshore chain stores that have been here for years.

NZ government needs to play a part in our industry.

The lack of attention to offshore consumer internet shopping, in particular the non charging of GST and duty on internet purchasing is of concern. We all want competition, but it needs to be on a level playing field.

The huge tax benefit, and protection for NZ businesses is obvious. I would also like to see promotion of our fashion designers on the world stage, through government assistance for our designers to showcase at international fashion weeks, i.e NY or London.

shopfitting

Customising sure to create style DURING Surestyle’s 37 year history in retail shopfitting supply there have been varying shopfitting trends while the importance of deadlines and low margins has increased. Currently a popular shopfitting method is using standard products and adding special features, such as colour, to time effectively and cost effectively customise retail stores.

The Girlz Room is a fun fashion, stationary and décor store that embraces female tween shoppers’ sense of creativity and desire for self-expression. It is only fitting that The Girlz Room, Botany Downs, worked with Surestyle to create a unique store environment with an adjustable flexiwall system and a floor retail system with customised pink powder coated base frames. A flexiwall system has a range of options from slotted wall channels to groove board systems and accessories. Shelves or hang rail accessories are available in a range of colours and sizes that can be customised for a point of difference.

Surestyle is noticing the heightened need for customisation to reflect a growing trend of niche high street developments such as Teed Street, Newmarket. Single level shopping streets are planned to create a more personal ambience enjoyed by boutique New Zealand shoppers. It is very important that Surestyle’s range of products is flexible for a retail industry that thrives on newness. Being able to physically move a floor system around the store creates a fresh layout and new perspective for shoppers.

Promotional units are an especially quick and easy way to change store layouts.

Bins next to the counter create an impulse buying space and grouping bins joint together can create a merchandise island to give consumers a new perspective on products.

Although the design and layout of store systems is crucial to selling products it is the product that needs to sell itself. It is evident that if a consumer does not notice the shopfitting fixture, but notices the products on the fixture, then the system is working. Shopfitting systems need to add to the vibe of the store but do not distract from the product.

Surestyle sees the importance of flexibility as a supplier themselves. Over the last two years, Surestyle’s range has doubled to cater for the entire range of retail needs. New packaging, accessory displays, signage and ticketing solutions have enhanced Surestyle’s all encompassing range and service.

HANG GARMENTS WITH CARE

Your garments and accessories make your business and need to be displayed in style. Wearcare is a progressive and innovative boutique hanger business that has serviced the New Zealand industry for over twenty years. It manufactures a full range of upmarket hangers in New Zealand and imports a beautiful range of wooden, non slip boutique quality hangers and accessories from Europe.

Wearecare non-slip imported hanger addresses the silk and woolen garment, preventing snagging and stretching. Coats are catered for with a wide shoulder hanger strong enough to carry police flak jackets and wetsuits. A range of accessory clips and accessory hangers will add to the look and feel of your boutique. Wearecare clients include many upmarket boutiques like Jean Jones, Deon Lee and Egg Clothing as well as larger outlets including Line 7, Farmlands, Quality Hotels, Carpet Barn, Mischief Shoes and NZ Police.

Wearcare has changed their website to better address its client needs and are continually improving its product range to address the needs of the changing looks associated with the boutique industry. Wearcare’s desire is to make the hanger and accessory display a simple and effective outcome for clients.

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I 15

colour trending

RESENE FLOAT: FAUSTO PUGLISI

RESENE RAPTURE: STELLA JEAN

In fashion, history is on repeat season in season out. References replayed and trends reimagined. In this cycle nautical references washed out the runways in a tidal wave of sailor inspired silhouettes and colours.

16 I March 2015

RESENE FROZEN: NO. 21

FASHION, throughout history is on repeat – season in, season out. References replayed and trends reimagined. This cycle, nautical themes washed out the runways in a tidal wave of sailor inspired silhouettes and colours.

Fausto Puglisi stayed true to his core aesthetic of part punk, part regal. Teaming up with a Vatican commissioned master jeweller to create the finishing touches on an overall high-end showcase of his talent. This season Puglisi listened to the customer and delivered a range that exposed the skin, used heavy bling and mashed together electric colour, for example this sweater and skirt combination that utilised a colour similar to Resene Float.

RESENE ELVIS: MOSCHINO

New financing and a new studio saw Jonathan Saunders reference his first collection reimagined with a tighter, more sophisticated team. Saunders described the collection as “joy and optimism,” and harnessed his experience as a print designer to generate garments that screamed colour and energy.

The turtleneck and panelled skirt combination draws elements on nautical prints and colours. The red is similar to Resene Pursuit and alludes to the classic polka dot pattern seen in various nautical references.

The moment Jeremy Scott took the reigns at Moschino his distinct vision as a designer could be seen miles down the street. The whole collection derived from pop-culture references such as

RESENE PURSUIT: JONATHAN SAUNDERS

RESENE BALI HAI: GUCCI:

McDonalds and Barbie, set to a backdrop of a popart palette. Some print choices read nautical on the runway like the oversized sports top in reference to the Tasmanian Devil and similar in colour to Resene Elvis.

As a new designer came on board, the artistic direction at Gucci noticeably changed. Alessandro Michele’s vision of the Gucci girl is more eclectic but distinctly rich in taste. With vintage in mind, the silhouette in this dress felt eerily similar to uniform trends seen in past collections, this time with a naval approach in a colour similar to Resene Bali Hai. In true to form style, Prada presented a collection of fine tailoring and precision accuracy in a series

RESENE DAREDEVIL: MICHAEL VAN DER HAM

of pastel suit variants. Pastel was the biggest feature of the range, contrasted against a selection of heavy fabrics in a boxy silhouette. Harsh tailoring and definitive lines built strength into each piece resulting in an overall impactful showcase. The blue suit, in a colour similar to Resene Primetime, reminded us of a stewardess at sea. From the crisp cut of the fabric to the pristine shade of blue, the representation of a Prada girl is always that of a put together woman.

RESENE PRIMETIME: PRADA

Colours available from RESENE COLORSHOPS www.resene.co.nz

0800 737 363

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I 17

photoshoot C&M Texan Twang Tank in Grey Marl STAPLE + CLOTH Golden Days Dress in Pale Blue MILLIE ELDER-HOLMES Protection Necklace in Gold MILLIE ELDER-HOLMES Protection Studs in Gold

18 I March 2015

MODEL: Eliza at Unique Models MAKE UP & HAIR: Mary Estelle PHOTOGRAPHER: Caitlan Mitchell Shot at Kingsize Studios.

STAPLE + CLOTH Fathom Dress in Dainty Print MILLIE ELDER-HOLMES Flower Of Life Ring in Gold MILLIE ELDER-HOLMES Protection Ring in Gold MILLIE ELDER-HOLMES Protection Necklace in Gold MILLIE ELDER-HOLMES Protection Studs in Gold

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I 19

collection review

Love From Venus Empower Collection

IN a world where there aren’t enough hours in the day, designer Georgia Hatzis has produced a range of jewellery drawing on the power of crystal energy to better utilise what little time her customers have.

Established in 2008, Love From Venus is designed for a simple yet sophisticated style of living. The brand has a long history of engineering lifetime investment pieces specifically crafted to draw in positive energy for the wearer. Each purchase marks the beginning of an extended love for the craftsmanship and passion that has been focussed into each item.

The Empower Collection was inspired by the modern women who is driven and motivated to have a successful career, a loving family, great friendships and a luxurious lifestyle.

Empower cuffs and rings are made in stainless steel to ensure the highest quality finish at a competitive price point in the luxury market. The selection of semi-precious stones are used to harness crystal energy, a long time practiced alternative healing method. Along with the crystals, custom messages and engravings like ‘Love attracts Love’, ‘Expect a miracle’ and ‘Believe in yourself ’ can be found on

trendWATCH

THE CAT’S PYJAMAS IN a growing trend of consumer spending, pyjamas have seen a revival drawing the focus of top-notch designers and dedicated brands.

POPULAR sleepwear brand Peter Alexander has become the hallmark for modern pyjamas, building their business around changing design trends starting with the re-introduction of the ‘onesie’. Following the dramatic success of its original offerings, Peter Alexander has helped deliver fresh and innovative designs onto the mainstream market.

The company grew so fast that in 2000 the brand became part of the Just Jeans group of companies whilst Alexander stayed on as manager. The latest collection ‘The Festival Forecast’ draws on popular aesthetic trends emerging from the music festival scene, an influence that can be seen across a broad spectrum of apparel categories. Key elements include bold floral prints and kimono sleeves.

Closer to home Wellington design duo Faye Lowe and Kenzy Cheeseman have created a brand that seeks to defy the line between sleepwear and loungewear. The collections revolve around the idea of comfortable and stylish clothing that can be worn throughout the

20 I March 2015

house, rather than just in the bedroom, hence the brand name ‘For Every Minute’. The selection ranges from loungewear right through to bridal, being described as “perfect for a bride getting ready on her big day, a mother celebrating a new birth or an indulgent weekend away”. Finest silks sourced direct from Asia make up the luxury execution involved in each piece that comes out of production, upholding the promise of sophisticated glamour whatever the occasion.

Similarly, luxury sleepwear brand Willa & Mae have made strides in the New Zealand sleepwear market with it’s offering of 1930’s inspired highend silk creations. The aesthetic draws heavily on old glamour, mixing up silhouettes of masculinity and femininity for an interesting array of unique garments.

each piece, perpetuating Hatzis’ philosophy.

“I am a firm believer in whatever you put your energy to is what you shall receive in return using the universal law of karmic energy and the law of attraction,” said Hatzis.

Designed to be stacked, the collection also falls in line with modern bohemian trends, with Hatzis describing the brand aesthetic as, “Boho luxe, for a luxury lifestyle that retains a bohemic and freewill way of character”.

Whatever the need, Love From Venus offers a range of fashionable pieces that deliver a practical solution in a stylish way. With more on the horizon it is clear Hatzis has an abundance of good energy for both herself and her customers.

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behind the business

View these brands and more on ApparelBuyersLounge.com

HOUSE OF RIOT

House of Riot’s hand-painted t-shirts with strong political statements have gained a lot of attention for the young brand and the issues it is passionate about.

“Power is found in ideas. You don’t need something elaborate to communicate with people,” said founder, Ollie Henderson.

Slogans such as ‘Start The Riot’ and ‘Sexism Sucks’, are aimed to empower younger generations with a way to express their opinions but the issues discussed go beyond age and location. “Racism, sexism and environmental issues affect everyone,” said Henderson.

House of Riot aims to encourage, educate and bring together creatives to create a community of awareness and development.

Henderson collaborates with various NGOs, activist groups and charities including One Girl and The Future. House of Riot is open to collaborating with fashion brands. “The more hands and heads we have involved the better.” For more information, email ollie@thehouseofriot.com.

CROSS STREET CANDLES

Jordan Smith and Jeremy Young began their candle brand in late 2014. The catalyst was a candle mould made by Young for Smith’s birthday. As a mechanical engineer and former graphic designer, Young created a geometrically inspired candle mould, which has since been duplicated to keep up with demand. Hand-poured at the pair’s apartment on Cross Street, the candles are GMO free with 100% natural soy wax sourced locally and sustainably.

Smith studied retail and marketing at AUT before becoming a buyer at a leading New Zealand footwear store and having an insight of how to engage consumers as well as buyers has served the candle brand well. Cross Street Candles have been reachable through Instagram and Facebook but now that their audience has grown a website is launching. Smith and Young would like to grow their candle business while trying out new candle colour styles, like their marble effect candles launched for Valentine’s Day. For more information email crossstreetcandles@gmail.com.

CHARLOTTE LANE CLOTHING Founder of online boutique Charlotte Lane, Becks Robinson believes her customers are just like her; everyday women wanting classic, comfortable and fashion forward garments and accessories. Superb quality denim, stripes, black, white and block colours are Charlotte Lane’s style. Robinson wears Charlotte Lane garments head to toe while engaging with customers on her website and social media channels.

“Customers are the most important part of my website. Without them Charlotte Lane wouldn’t be a success!” said Robinson.

Charlotte Lane is a balanced website

22 I March 2015

which Robinson is careful not to overload with product. ‘Charlotte’ is her daughter’s first name and teamed with the timeless last name ‘Lane’, the brand name alludes to the lanes linking together Robinson’s current hometown, Queenstown. The clothing, jewellery and eyewear stocked are designed in Australia while beauty brand Tailor Skin Care is made in Lyall Bay, Wellington.

For more information, email charlottelaneclothing@outlook.com.

MAVIS AND OSBORN

Tamzin Hawkins, founder and designer of Mavis and Osborn, has a wealth of experience in fashion. After completing her design degree at AUT, Hawkins worked in childrenswear for Trelise Cooper and Silver Cross abroad. Mavis and Osborn is Hawkin’s independent venture where she creates artisan apparel and homewares for businesses and consumers. Hawkins has made custom aprons in linen and natural fibres for a range of businesses including café Shaky Isles and jewellery brand Meadowlark. Hawkins sources locally whenever she can or uses local suppliers.

Her beautiful homewares including napkins and a soon to be released washing basket are stocked at Taylor Road boutique. Hawkins sells her childrenswear collection online, at markets and at Australian retailer And The Little One Said. Hawkins plans to have four to six drops of transeasonal capsule ranges a year. All of Mavis and Osborn’s designs are timeless with strong attention to cut and fabric. For now, Mavis and Osborn is concentrating on a couple of key wholesalers and online. For more information, email hello@mavisandosborn.com.

radar

GREG HOLLAND

Greg Holland of Greg Holland Jewellery is a visual person with a keen eye for detail.

“I always wanted to work with my hands so jewellery design and manufacturing was a great fit for me,” said Holland.

Holland’s original handcrafted jewellery is responsibly sourced from South Island gold or recycled platinum. Celebrating 25 years this year, Greg Holland has had a long but inspiring career. He listens closely to what his customers want so he does not pay too much attention to fashion trends.

Holland’s unique art pieces inspired by the New Zealand landscape have been well received and he will continue to expand this collection. Upcycling of jewellery pieces is also popular, where Holland designs a new piece by recycling the old.

“Customers really appreciate the thought that goes into preserving the sentimental value in these pieces,” said Holland.

For more information, email greg@gregholland.co.nz.

RAD JEWELLERY

Dominique Bela started a crash course in online business with a cream wall, a self timed digital camera and some questionable photoshop.

RAD sold vintage items on Facebook before founder Bela launched her own website to sell curated vintage and her own handmade jewellery. After taking a travel and modeling break, Bela reevaluated her brand and realised the importance of original handmade jewellery and fair trade. Bela found a fair trade certified jewellery components supplier that works with Karen Hill Tribe artisans and a local silver mine in Thailand. A local family translates Bela’s ideas to the artisans.

RAD is an ethical mix of old and new. Bela’s designs are influenced by vintage pieces and have a spiritual meaning behind their design.

Handmade imperfections are cherished by Bela who has the silver jewellery oxidized before polished to create a grungier look. Up until now Bela has concentrated on online but she understands the importance of face-to-face communication and is about to start offering wholesale accounts. For more information, email info@radjewellery.co.nz.

MIDNIGHT LABEL

New online store Midnight Label is for people that believe in the bewitching magic of midnight, when anything can happen. The founder, Angela Farrelly is building a modern and playful online boutique, that sources fashion and accessories globally and sells online. Created around the Cinderella fairytale, Midnight Label likes interacting with customers by asking what they would like to see in store, as well as collaborating with wholesalers and up and coming designers to bring new ranges on shore. The label is not about exclusivity but experience, and Farrelly’s long term goal is to collaborate with her customers

GOBLIN BABYWEAR

Rose Owen of Goblin Babywear is an experienced textile designer who now designs and makes her own babywear collection from a home studio. Originally a side project while Owen, a mother of two, was on maternity leave, Goblin Babywear’s Facebook store took off when Owen’s desire for affordable high quality fabrics for her own children was appreciated by other parents.

The most popular Goblin Babywear design is a tiger stripe that is on t-shirts and sweaters. Goblin Babywear’s designs are graphic, modern and durable. Currently, Owen perceives a wide reaching trend of simple monotone prints, which is incorporated in her recent collections.

As a textile lover, Owen knows how to pick the right fabric that is hard wearing and comfortable. She is always on the lookout for new fabrics, so the Goblin Babywear range is ever expanding. Goblin Babywear releases a summer range and a winter range each year with a few extra pieces in between with prints. Owen is set to open an e-commerce website as a way of maintaining a low price point.

For more information, email goblinbabywear@ yahoo.com.

on inspired new ranges. Farrelly is also building brand awareness offline with monthly pop-up events, helped

by Flaunt PR. Midnight Label’s range is sourced from local designers and international wholesale accounts and are inspired by the modern women who works hard and plays hard. Farrelly wishes her brand to be exciting, regardless of fashion trends. She likens herself as a modern day fairy godmother, granting customers’ wishes by asking them what is on their wish list and what they think of the ranges she is contemplating stocking. For more information contact their agency at requests@disruptiveunicorns.com

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I 23

behind the business

Point of sale, what does it mean?

By the AES TEAM

QUITE literally Point of Sale means the place where the sale is transacted, traditionally a counter with a means of taking money in exchange for goods. In the future there may be no need for such facilities, as retailers will be selling to customers in store, on the street or on the internet. We may no longer be restricted to the “processing station”… but more of that later in our next editorial.

Overseas, the POS often includes the EFTPOS (electronic funds transfer at point of sale), but in NZ we usually separate this to the terminal. Keeping all the compliance and upgrade separate from the POS system, keeping costs down.

Interface it and integrate it, but keep the PIN and card hardware isolated.

POS is the Point of Sale hardware and software that records the transaction. How sophisticated that needs to be depends on the information you want out of it.

For example, if it doesn’t record the time of the transaction, you won’t be able to look at the times of the day when you may need more, or less, staff or even if it is worth being open.

If it doesn’t record who made the sale, then you can’t see which of your staff up sell, sell additional items or give discounts. If you only want to record the sale and calculate GST, then a simple cash register is all you need, and all you should pay for.

If however, you want to know what is happening in your store when you’re not there, want to track

and save on stock, utilize performing staff, reward repeat customers, reduce admin time and focus your efforts on growing your business and your profit, then a sophisticated database with quality input and reporting systems are essential.

It doesn’t matter if you have just purchased a system, if it doesn’t increase your profit, replace it with one that will. It will pay for itself.

Don’t let your business be held back by the wrong POS. So what is POS ? The most important part is the database. It records information about your store, your stock, prices, discounts, costs and profit, staff, your customer likes, needs and buying habits. It can record how effective promotions and advertising are, what effect the weather and major events have on sales.

It can report on stock levels and re-ordering, items that move and items that take up shelf space.

It can interface with or direct online sales. It’s better to move a non-performing product online, than to discount it in-store.

Online sales are a fact of life and are growing, this is both a threat and an opportunity. The stores that survive are the ones that recognize the threat and convert it into an opportunity. Small rural towns can compete online, large city stores can counter

the ‘browse-leave-then buy online’ group. If you can’t beat them, join them! A POS purchased today should facilitate this. It should pay for itself.

If your current system doesn’t…change it!

Your supplier should go through all the information you want out of your system, what you want to do with your business going forward, what your dreams and aspirations are, as well as your needs.

If your current supplier hasn’t…change them!

How to speed up your recruitment process without sacrificing quality

By Mandy Jacobson, Agency Manager, Frontline Retail TOP performing retail staff are in high demand these days, and this means that retail organisations looking to hire the best need to be quick off the mark. A lengthy drawnout recruitment process can lead to your best candidates accepting a job elsewhere, but how do you hire more quickly without cutting corners?

Here are some suggestions that may help you speed up your recruitment process and get the edge over your competitors when it comes to attracting the best talent.

Advertise job openings on your company website People can stumble across your site for any number of reasons, not necessarily because they are looking for work. If they are already interested in your business they might make a good employee. If they see a job opening, they may be tempted to apply, even if they aren’t actively seeking work. It never hurts to advertise positions within your organisation on your site as well as in other places. The more people you reach, the more likely you will find the superstar you are looking for.

Create an accurate position description A misleading position description can bring you a flood of unsuitable candidates and weigh down the entire recruitment process. An accurate position

24 I March 2015

description can help you speed things up by enabling you to reach the most equipped and qualified candidates quickly.

Don’t interview just for the sake of it If your organisation’s recruiting policy says you have to interview five candidates you may just go along with it, but this can be a waste of time if all five don’t have the skills you’re looking for. If you only have three candidates you like, save some time by only interviewing those three candidates instead of picking two more to make up numbers.

Only check references for candidates you’re planning to hire Reference checking can lead to delays. Instead of checking references for all of your top candidates, you can try obtaining their references at interview and then only checking them before you make an offer.

Checking one reference is much less time consuming than checking five, four of which you will never use.

Use technology to streamline your recruitment There are some handy tools available these days that can speed up the recruitment process and help you avoid lengthy delays. These include CV scanning tools that check for certain keywords, and new ways of finding candidates online, which can reduce the time of the standard application process.

Social media can be a great way to find candidates

and bypass the more traditional (and time consuming) advertising process. It also allows for easy communication through instant messaging.

You can also streamline your application process by only allowing candidates to apply directly through your website. This can be easier than going through job boards or other third party sites and ensures that your applications are all in one central place. As well as enabling candidates to apply directly to you, your site can also keep them up to date with timeframes and the general process so they know what to expect after they submit their application.

Provide an overview of your company on your website Your website gives you a chance to connect directly with potential candidates and really sell yourself to them. Candidates who see jobs posted on job boards often visit a company’s website to find out more before deciding whether or not to apply. Make sure your site makes the perks and benefits of working for you clear, so that you get the attention of possible candidates.

Don’t let slow recruitment processes mean you miss out on the best candidates. If the perfect candidate comes your way, you want to snap them up before your competitors do. Streamlining and speeding up your recruitment process can help you do just that.

behind the business

Vitag’s Stocktaking and Security Synergy SHRINK, comprised of shoplifting, employee or supplier fraud and administrative errors, cost the global retail industry more than $128 billion from 2013-2014, according to the Global Retail Theft Barometer. Vitag Security Solutions Ltd. is introducing RFKeeper Plug & Play RFID technology to Australasia that combats loss prevention by combining logistics and security solutions.

Item-level stock management and automated inventory counts are enabled by RFKeeper’s readers that reduce the time of a store check to around 30 minutes. The scanning machines are available in single or double handheld devices that record data at a distance. Reports are automatically uploaded to the retailer’s existing inventory management systems without the need for costly IT integration.

The readers allow such swift stocktaking that many overseas retailers with RFKeeper technology stocktake every Monday morning.

In particular, INTERSPORT Jan Bols, a large sporting goods retailer in the Netherlands counts an accurate inventory of 10,000 items in 20 minutes each Monday. “It gives me great confidence that we are ordering the right products and that our inventory records a very accurate and up to date,” said general manager of INTERSPORT Jan Bols, Alexander Bols.

Accurate stocktaking increases sales while reducing stocktaking carrying costs by ensuring that all required styles and sizes are available on the sales floor or online. Pick-lists for stock replenishment can be generated on the spot, allowing staff to restock

merchandise or update websites in a timely manner that avoids out of stocks.

Searching for items is time consuming and frustrating for both customers and staff members, with customer walk-offs being common. RFKeeper’s technology offers an easy item locating solution with the option of special software on their handheld readers that enables the requested item’s barcode or details to be entered. The readers then provide audio and visual cues as a sales member gets closer to the item.

A warehouse terminal can be used to count stock as it is being brought into storage. Closed boxes, pallets, packages and racks can be scanned for single item information enabling shipments to be confirmed and exceptions identified in real time. Validating any shipment is cost effective at various points of the supply chain, reducing shipping errors.

The plug & play features of RFKeeper’s technology means the system fits with existing retail systems. “We believe RFID solutions should be implemented immediately with no integration or costly investment in IT infrastructure,” said vice president of marketing and business development at RFKeeper, Amir Ben-Assa.

INTERSPORT Jan Bols deployed the RFKeeper solution in less than a day. “Our workers like the solution and instantly adopted it since it is intuitive, and did not require changes in our daily working procedures,” said Bols.

ROI is almost immediate with a seamless set up involving minimal software integration and only

simple staff training. Even still, Vitag Security Solutions Ltd. works closely with its retailers and attends every stocktake for the first 6 weeks to ensure store confidence.

The EAS RFKeeper tags are about the same size as other retail tags but have a small RFID barcode chip in the pin itself. For jewellery, eyewear and accessories, loop tags and box tags are used to ensure no stock damage. With an RFID chip embedded in the tag itself, staff members simply need to detach the tag and the information stored on the tag will be automatically transferred to the cash register. The elimination of barcode scanning can reduce customer checkout time by 50% and instantaneously improve the shopping experience with shorter lines and accurate price charging. The new tags are reusable and comply with GSI barcode standards.

Shoplifting and employee theft accounts for 65% of global retail shrinkage. RFKeeper tags alert upon attempt to leave store and frequent inventory counts enable retailers to identify stock variances as they occur. If a certain staff member is stealing clothing for themselves, the timing, style or size will be similar. Staff member theft is almost eliminated when RKKeeper technology is introduced as precaution measures are automatically uploaded.

Vitag Security Solutions Ltd. have the exclusive rights to RFKeeper supply in Australia and New Zealand. With RFKepper, Vitag Security Solutions Ltd. is creating a new way of thinking about stocktaking and security and this is only phase one of the synergetic solution.

Trends and Tools for Building Campaigns MOBILE devices have become deeply integrated into today’s shopping experience. With more shopping options than ever before, consumers want to control how and where they shop and expect the process to be efficient and seamless as they cross channels and use multiple devices.

This year, marketers must plan to maximize the potential of traditional technical infrastructures while also exploring the emerging territory of more connected, location-based tools in order to keep up.

The marketing strategists from Bronto’s Professional Services team are on the font lines of digital marketing, they help clients drive sales by optimizing and evolving email, mobile and social programmes. Strategists have analysed the market and discussed what they see as some of the most important trends and tools for building successful, revenue-driving campaigns and programmes in the New Year.

CONSUMERS DEMAND STERAMLINED, MULTI-DEVICE SHOPPING EXPERIENCES Consumers have helped to shape the mobile shopping experience and now have high expectations for easyto-shop sites, mobile-friendly emails and streamlined ordering regardless of the devices they are using. Senior marketing strategist, Emily Keye predicts how consumers will continue to demand a better cross-device and cross-channel experience this year.

“With less time and money to spend, mobile shop-

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pers will use multiple devices to shop, compare prices and wait for the right offer before purchasing. As marketers, we’ll need to make this mobile shopping experience as streamlined and customer-friendly as possible,” she said.

Keye believes that many marketers are still just batching and blasting the same content to everyone at the same time. They are in the mind0set that they are going to send an email and get a conversion right away.

“Consumers are not always ready to shop right at the moment they receive the email,” said Keye.

“Mobile shoppers who are on-the-go tend to shop when they have time, which may be during their lunch hour or after the kids are asleep.

Sending time is easy to assess, look at send-time optimisation tools or location-based targeting to find those shoppers when they are ready to shop. Look at previous activity or behaviours to identify the device of choice for shopping and buying.

MORE SOPHISTICATED SHOPPING BASKET REMINDERS One-size fits all approach to basket reminders would work if all shoppers left items in the shopping basket for the same reason and truly had no plans to come back and buy. Today’s consumers utilize the shopping basket to store items to shop later, or to make a shopping list.

Although some do leave with no plans to return, but as Kellie Boggs, marketing strategist predicts, a more

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sophisticated basket reminder email programme will be essential this year to keep shoppers shopping and get them to complete their order.

“Marketers will take abandoned basket reminder emails to the next level from now on,” said Boggs.

“Instead of the batch-and-blast approach, marketers will be focused on their customers’ shopping experience and making that more relevant. They will dive deeper into their purchase history and overall engagement and use those details to drive revenue.”

Boggs suggests using any profiling data that you have from your customer preference centre and use it against past purchases. By leveraging that data to entice customers into shopping for other products they might be interested in will lead to more sales.

For more information and trends for digital marketing visit www.bronto.com.au.

blogs.bronto.com apparelmagazine.co.nz

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PARIS FASHION WEEK FALL 2015 Paris completes the four-week tour of the world’s leading fashion capitals. Eager eyes have tuned into the runway offerings globally, via digital feeds and online media. We tuned in too, analysing every look sent out by Parisian designers. Home to some of the most revered brands, the design credentials here are set high. In our report, you’ll discover which designers, themes, garments and details will rise to the top of retail in Fall 2015.

COLOR

Paris Fall 2015 Color Palette

joined fleetingly by cyan and forest green. Lemaire worked with taupe, olive and caviar, and Givenchy gave an ode to midnight’s tones with the addition of deep claret.

But Paris wasn’t po-faced throughout - there was lightness too: in the Star Trek blue trouser suit at Roland Mouret, the mint green leather at Loewe and the bolts of sunshine yellow at Hermés. There were poster paint shades of red and greens, flashes of the juiciest orange and buzzing violet. Dior’s color usage was unexpected - combinations of brown, yellow, green and tomato, all inspired by nature.

Meanwhile, the dizzying jewel tones of Balmain will be coming to a reality TV star near you soon.

Paris offered us both sides of the coin when it came to color - there were the bright and lurid collections, and there was understated, earthen simplicity. In the reserved corner was Rochas with cool browns, washed out khakis, black furs and workwear grays. Momentary lifts in tone were provided via butterscotch yellow; the overall effect was wartime austerity. At Akris, tonal looks were built from head to toe in shades of dove, cream and slate, with texture being the only variant through the outfits. Stella McCartney’s use of color was sparse too; gray, black, white and camel were

GARMENTS Capes

Wide Legged

By now capes are so entrenched in Fall 2015’s lexicon that it was expected to see them included in the collections of the big designers in Paris. Of course, they did not disappoint, with Lanvin and Lemaire revealing versions befitting of the most gallant journeyman on horseback. Sonia Rykiel paired her velvet cape, which fell to ankle, with a matching printed velvet jumpsuit.

At Kenzo, capes came in weatherproofed poncho shapes, or knitted forms which swaddled the wearer and were hemmed in blanket stitch - these are bound to become a street style phenomena next winter. At Chloé, the sleeves of a grey wool peacoat were given such flare that the whole thing resembled a cape more than a coat. A bomber at Dries Van Noten, with fully flared bishop sleeve had a similar effect.

Sonia Rykiel’s diffusion line included a knitted capesweater and Vionnet’s cropped and hooded capes were more fairy tale odd than weekend brunch appropriate.

Paris presented a little push against the wide-legged trend that has been seen in all four fashion capitals namely in skinny high-waisted pants at Isabel Marant and Carven, serving into the 80s theme. However, the dissenters were scant few - the mainstream shift is towards looser legwear forms. At Balmain, billowing evening wear pants were full in shape from the top down, and were particularly striking in metallic stripe.

Loewe and Dries Van Noten also exhibited fullness in their trouser shapes - not flared, just cut wide from the hip. At Van Noten, powder pink velvet looked fresh, for Loewe it was workwear grey wool. The trusty culotte shape is given new life for next season too. H&M included a high-shine patent leather version, worn with knee high boots disappearing into the hem. Lemaire’s camel culottes swung wide from the leg and were creased to the front.

Jumpsuits Jumpsuits, playsuits and dungarees have been hugely successful in retail over the last few years this is not a new trend, but Fall’s designer backing and reworkings of the shape mean the garment’s life span has been invigorated. There were leather dungarees at Hermés, paired with white shirt over a white turtleneck - that looked both modern and puritan. At both Leonard and H&M, quilted jumpsuits felt fit for ski resorts.

In their bright colors, they were paired with sweaters and felt all-weather appropriate. Roland Mouret’s v-plunge jumpsuit, tailored in black was suited to evening, whilst Chloé’s slouchy tailoring, which mimicked a waistcoat and workwear pants, felt much more casual.

26 I March 2015

FABRICS

Velvet

Fur

There is no escaping fur for Fall 2015 thanks to the incredible faux furs at Stella McCartney. The heavenly shaggy furs were trimmed back in places to reveal a chevron pattern. Of course, there were ‘sensible’ fur coats everywhere - traditionally shaped and colored numbers in the most divine pelts. But the real retail trend is the fun and frivolous use of fur. That means items like Dior’s fur shift dress styled with a sleek ponytail and patent leather ankle boots to dispel any prehistoric notions and Saint Laurent’s haphazardly colorful patchwork fur coat. Céline trimmed their long bag straps with huge pom-poms of fur which felt frivolous and Sacai’s colored stripes on their seriously weather-beating coats were a sign that chill won’t defeat our spirits.

In Paris, velvet was the byword for exquisite evening luxury. Both Valentino and Givenchy used the fabric in black dresses with a historic feel - longsleeved and panelled with lace and ruffles at Givenchy and high-necked at Valentino both harked to the Victorian era. Chloé’s midnight blue strapless velvet dress was flecked with half-moon shapes and felt magically other-wordly. Lanvin built into this costume feel with their floor length velvet skirt, their one-sleeved dress trimmed in leather, and their wrap skirt trimmed with tassels. The special feel of velvet lifts a garment from day-to-day casual and imbues it with a sense of evening occasion, regardless of the shape. This process is critical in justifying the luxury price point, and will appeal to customers emotionally.

Patchwork

Patchwork, so popular in New York and Milan, was back in force during Paris Fashion Week. Designers in Paris presented three options for this: the first a literal patchworking in the crazy spliced fabrics on offer at Stella McCartney, Guy Laroche and Jacquemus.

The next route was neatly patchworked layers that felt more like wall art - see the frameworthy panels at Christian Wijnants or the woven dreams at Nina Ricci where sequined panels and feathered pieces were merged into one. Lastly, patchwork effects were created through a clever print. They were knitted in grey tones at Acne, used on skintight leggings and longline blazers. At Cédric Charlier, varying widths and colors of stripes were spliced together, giving the haphazard effect of a patchwork. The strongest use of patchwork however goes to Chloé, who spliced colorful printed and woven panels of fabrics together in 70s style ponchos and floor length dresses.

DETAILS

Fringing

Double-Fastened

Double-breasted garments featured heavily on Paris runways, worked into classic Navy-style outerwear at Chloé, Nina Ricci and Saint Laurent. While the peacoat may not set the fashion world alight for next season, its styling worked into a cape may. Loewe double-fastened the front of their cowl-necked, slouchy blousons and Acne placed their twin-row of buttons at the waist to emphasis the nipped silhouette of their coats. At Dior, a tomato-red blazer was doublebreasted unusually high, whilst Isabel Marant instead took the rows of buttoning to a flirty knitted skirt. Rather than looking mannish, more often these fastenings were used to define the female form instead of mask it.

Twist

Nothing showcases design skill like a complex cut of pattern, which is why it makes good sense for the luxury market to differentiate themselves with this talent. In Paris designers offered complexity through twisted garment shapes - with the key challenge being fit despite the fussiness. A loose jumpsuit at Sonia by Sonia Rykiel was formed from two crossing, draped panels. At Balmain, a clever, fitted blazer twisted around the front of the body and emphasising Joan Small’s tiny waist. Alexis Mabille not only used twisted panels in alternating fabrics, but this also became a motif for a print in the collection. Barbara Bui subtly workedtwisted and draped panels into her suiting, whilst Rick Owens boldly opted for dramatic swoops at hurricane force.

Gentle fringing to the edges of jackets, bags and booties have been consistently popular through New York, London and Milan. So we turn to Paris to unearth the more extreme versions of this trend we now know will be big for Fall 2015. We found it in Nina Ricci’s navy peacoat, which was curtained, capelike with black fringe. There was drama in the twinecolored fringing at Sacai, which boldly hung from the bottom of a leather coat. Ellery laser-cut Lurex and worked into heavy fringed rows across a strapless dress and a similar look was created in icicle-like spikes at Vionnet. At Leonard, long strands of fringing swooped down the arm of a sweater before being lifted and pinned across the front. Paris designers showed us that with a little imagination, this trend can be transformative.

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