Apparel Magazine | February 2018

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FEBRUARY 2018 I VOL 51 I NO 02

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YEAR OF THE DOG INFLUENCER If you’ve been anywhere online recently, you would’ve noticed the flooded social channels of ‘influencers’.

Now a common and popular form of marketing, influencer marketing is when a brand partners with a person of social ‘influence’ and now may be the best time to dive in. Despite its popularity, beware that while some brands have flourished, others were burned.

Many substantial risks come with influencer marketing that you should take into account before engaging.

Influencer marketing is hardly anything new. Brands have been utilising celebrity status for decades. Some influencers might not disclose that their content is paid for with agency or brand money, which is where most companies get burned.

Here are the major pros and cons of influencer marketing:

PROS

It’s the only way to reach the new generations

They don’t watch TV, they don’t listen to traditional radio, and they are so busy on their phones in Ubers and cars – they missed your billboard.

False personal connections and copycats

Followers believe their influencer of choice is their friend. They love to catch up with them on their stories. Copycat behaviour is more common than you think. This is when the follower wants to be just like their favourite influencer. Look at Kim Kardashian, people blindly follow her even though half of her posts are #ad.

No ad blockers

This is a huge problem in online advertising that doesn’t affect our smartphones. Ad blockers can’t touch you on Instagram.

The Halo Effect

The influencer’s positive relationship with a brand raises awareness of your brand or company simultaneously.

The Second-Order

After being aligned with an influencer, this in itself may be notable and generates a wave of organic PR. This second-order impact is often overlooked and is another element SEO’s can benefit from influencer marketing.

CONS

Missing disclosures

Followers feel betrayed when this happens. Don’t ever underestimate the internet; it is a mighty beast.

You can gift all the presents in the world to an influencer, but as soon as money has changed hands, it’s time to fess up.

Safety and control

If the influencer is allowed to loosely interpret a script or instruction, it translates as authentic or genuine. This is a HUGE risk, but if you pull it off, you will reap the rewards. When in doubt, approve the content before it goes live.

So, is it all worth it? Like any alternative marketing, it’s a gamble. Do a lot of research and find an influencer that aligns with your brand’s values. Don’t cut corners, be transparent about who’s paying the bills or it will come back to haunt you.

There’s no question that this year will be the rise of the influencer, just be ready for the fall.

*** Congratulations to WORLD’S co-founder Denise L’Estrange-Corbet who received a New Year Honours of Dame Companion of the New Zealand Order of Merit for her services to fashion and the community.

L’Estrange-Corbet was appointed a Member of New Zealand Order of Merit in 2002. Congratulations also to Margarita Robertson, creative director of NOM*d, who will be appointed an Officer of the New Zealand Order of Merit for her services to the fashion industry.

Hats off also to Overland for winning Best Large Workplace of 2017.

*** We are excited to announce that Apparel Magazine will be presenting a group show featuring Not For You, Tracey Yue, and Georgette Pollock-Johnston, at Vancouver Fashion Week in March.

*** An elderly man was weeping on a park bench. A passerby asks “why are you crying?”.

“I married a beautiful 30-year-old blonde,” replied the old man.

“Why are you crying then?” asked the man.

“I can’t remember where I live!”

Fraud

When the pressure to be popular gets too much, or they get greedy or impatient. BEWARE of influencers who have a fake following. Get proof or walk away. There are lots of websites that can tell you the true audience of their online presence.

caitlan@reviewmags.com

Whether its Tiger Woods, Logan Paul, or Nigella.

Scandals happen – know when to distance yourself quietly.

CHAIRMAN PUBLISHER GENERAL MANAGER EDITORIAL DIRECTOR EDITOR STAFF WRITER

Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Mark Fullerton - mark@reviewmags.com

ADVERTISING SALES

Ankita Singh - ankita@reviewmags.com Laura Shortall - Laura@reviewmags.com

2 I February 2018

By Booth Moore

New York Fashion Week has served many purposes throughout its long history, but it has always remained at the centre of the American fashion world. This illustrious history is finally told as never before; in a book packed with backstage ephemera, designer interviews, and exclusive photographs. Part historical over­view, part scrapbook, and part fashion-industry field guide, American Runway will bring to life the people, places, and over-the- top runway productions of New York Fashion Week.

PARIS UNDRESSED: The Secrets of French Lingerie

By Kathryn Kemp-Griffin

With illustrations by French lingerie designer Paloma Casile, Paris Undressed: The Secrets of French Lingerie, will transform the way women perceive their undergarments and bodies, and reveal how to coordinate a lingerie wardrobe to reflect personality, and to meet lifestyle needs with the right dose of reverie. With a hand-selected guide to the most confidential addresses and lingerie boutiques in Paris; Paris Undressed, discloses where to find the perfect bra, couture camisole, or cheeky bikini bottom. Paris Undressed goes behind the seams to combine cultural references, expertise, and practical advice to inspire every woman’s underwear drawer.

NORELL: Master of American Fashion

By Jeffery Banks

@NZAPPAREL

Scandals

AMERICAN RUNWAY: 75 Years of Fashion and the Front Row

SENIOR DESIGNER GRAPHIC DESIGNER ISSN 1171-2287

Raymund Sarmiento Ciaran Carroll

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2018 NZ Apparel Magazine.

Norell was the first designer to employ couture techniques and showed the world that American design could climb to great heights when producing collection after collection with refined workmanship and luxurious fabrics. He singlehandedly shaped the character of the ready-to- wear industry and served as a role model to younger generations of American designers. Norell was the first thoroughly modern American designer—and his dresses are still prized today.

BEFORE THEY WERE FAMOUS

iD D U N E D I N EMERGING DESIGNER SHOW M AY 3 & 4, 2018 iD FA S H I O N.C O.N Z T I C K E TM A S T E R.C O.N Z

46 of the world’s best emerging designers in two incredible shows.

IMAGE: Lisa Liu, University of Technology Sydney

NEW LOOK FOR ID DUNEDIN FASHION WEEK After a major strategic review, the iD International Emerging Designers Show has been positioned as the future of the event. The 2018 Emerging Show, with significant funding from the Dunedin City Council, will be held at the Dunedin Town Hall over two nights. First, on Thursday 3rd May is the judging night with a gala evening the following night.

Runway shows featuring local Dunedin designers will be held before the Emerging Designers Show, giving event-goers a taste of the city’s exceptional fashion community.

“We’ve shifted our focus towards the emerging designers this year, we see 2018 as a bridging year towards a more sustainable long-term event which brings both the world’s fashion to Dunedin and shares Dunedin’s fashion with the world,” said Dr Margo Barton, professor of fashion at Otago Polytechnic and chair of the iD Dunedin fashion committee.

“We are still finalising additional events

which will showcase Dunedin’s amazing fashion community. As we head towards our 20th anniversary in 2019, we’re in an exciting place.”

Barton added that no other emerging designer awards event in the world is open to the public and allows such an intimate look at the future of fashion. “Heading into our 14th year of the awards, the event has an incredible global reach and is attracting applications from around the world.”

Featuring collections from 44 of the world’s top emerging fashion designers representing 17 countries, selected from a pool of almost 200 entries, iD Dunedin 2018 will showcase the very latest in creativity and fashion innovation. See the full list of finalists on our website.

AMAZON WRISTBAND TRACKS WORKERS

A wristband for warehouse workers that tracks movement has been patented by Amazon. The bracelet can vibrate to point an employee’s hand in the right direction which furthers Amazon’s surveillance of work environment. The wristband can precisely track where warehouse employees are placing their hands.

In 2016, a BBC investigation showed agency workers making Amazon deliveries were defecating in bags, speeding, and falling asleep at the wheel as they desperately tried to hit ambitious delivery targets issued by an Amazon logistics app.

When you order from Amazon, the details go straight to a handheld computer that the warehouse staff carry. The worker must then rush to retrieve the product from one of the many inventory bins, pack it into a delivery box and move on to the next order.

Using ultrasonic tracking to identify the precise location of a worker’s hands, the wristbands purpose is to enable humans to fulfil more orders even faster than before. A more realistic interpretation of the wristband is to deter workers wasting time dillydallying.

4 I February 2018

LEVI’S PRIDE

Levi Strauss & Co have been longstanding vocal supporters of LGBTQ equality and one of the ways they show this is through their annual PRIDE collection where 100 percent of the proceeds are donated to support their LGBTQ partners Harvey Milk Foundation and Stonewall Community Foundation. The theme this year is “I AM _____”, asking their followers to fill in the blank. Wearing the garments can be a visual badge of honour that stands for both individuality and solidarity while celebrating equality. This collection marks the five-year anniversary of Levi’s Pride Collections and more than three decades of supporting LGBTQ causes. From consistently scoring 100 percent on the Human Rights Campaign’s Corporate Equality Index as one of America’s best places to work for LGBTQ employees to leading the way as the first Fortune 500 company to offer partner benefits over twenty years ago.

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A NEW GENERATION OF POP-UP

SHOP/SLOW is a popup store featuring local emerging designers from 19-25 February. Located in Ponsonby Central, Auckland, the store will highlight nine brands including; Blue Blank, Courtney Pellow, Elisabeth Kwan, No Work To Do, and Jason Lingard. Showcasing their artisan clothing and accessories, Shop/Slow is a natural recreation to modern day over-consumption and fast-fashion. “ The idea to hold a popup grew from our desire to support each other and encourage local creativity and ethically-made products,” said designer Jason Lingard. “Getting together as a group and having pop-ups like this means we can test our products, meet our customers face-to-face while gaining valuable feedback and exposure.”

As a group of local makers, they want to

encourage consumers to buy quality products less often and support local creativity. “Supporting local makers and suppliers is important to me, as is keeping my supply chain as short as possible and always sourcing highquality fabrics to add value and longevity,” added Shannon Thompson from Out Of Comfort.

$790 MILLION REDEVELOPMENT Scentre Group has announced today that the 277 Westfield in Newmarket will be treated to a $790 million upgrade including premium department store David Jones.

Incorporating multiple sites over four and a half hectares, the site will be home to the new format of Farmers, Countdown, David Jones and more than 230 new retailers.

“We’re incredibly excited to be embarking on the transformation of Westfield Newmarket in collaboration with our joint venture partner, GIC,” said Scentre Group COO Greg Miles. “On completion, Westfield Newmarket will represent a premium fashion, food, technology, lifestyle and entertainment experience unrivalled in New Zealand.

Westfield Newmarket will become the flagship living centre for the Group’s New Zealand portfolio and set a new benchmark in extraordinary

retail and lifestyle destinations.”

David Jones’ CEO David Thomas added that they know New Zealanders are well-travelled and fashion savvy with an appetite for international brands and worldclass shopping experiences. “We are focussed on exceeding these expectations when we open our first Auckland store as part of the exciting new Westfield Newmarket redevelopment,” Thomas said. “Our store will combine the best of New Zealand and international brands curated specifically for the discerning local market with our range of premium in-store services, delivering an unparalleled experience to the region.”

The total site will have a gross lettable area of 88,150 square metres and is due for completion in the fourth quarter of 2019.

LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT

WHY DESIGN MATTERS eStar senior technical design lead, Dena Emanuel, outlines the importance of design to the success of your digital store.

Design, at its heart, is about planning and communication.

Design done well will communicate effectively to your customers, foster their trust, and ultimately lead to a higher converting digital store.

First impressions count. So make sure your customers feel comfortable and confident shopping with you by investing in a professional user interface.

Treat your e-commerce site as you would a physical store. A shop with a well presented front window, clear promotions and easy to find stock will inspire customers to enter and increase repeat custom, compared to a store that has poorly crafted signage and chaotic inventory. The same is true online.

New customers judge the quality of your product on your site’s looks. This is crucial in overcoming the dreaded early exit (over 50 percent of consumers typically leave within viewing three pages). Also, customer loyalty increases with an e-commerce site they want to revisit.

ALL STYLE BUT NO SUBSTANCE

A well designed site will be intuitive, easy to navigate and have optimised,well planned code. Coding standards and user experience aren’t as sexy as the visual aspect, but these things are just as important. A survey of 2,000 UK respondents found 41 percent believe “easy navigation is the most important feature while shopping online”.

Prominent designer and user interface expert Jared Spool said “Good design, when done well, should be invisible”. Fast loading times and forms that are easy to complete are features that create subconscious positive experiences that go unnoticed when designed well.

ART FOR ART’S SAKE

As stifling to creativity as it may seem, best practice design principles exist for a reason – what works and what doesn’t for customer’s e-commerce shopping habits.

Going against best practice principles will cost you money in the long run.

Ensure you have a clear purpose (taking into account best practice) for why you are implementing your designs and have ways to test the impact they have on your customers. Implementing creative design decisions without purpose and neglecting to gauge their impact can be an expensive mistake.

Successful retailers invest in design for their digital stores, ensuring customers’ overall online shopping experience is considered alongside brand. Utilising e-commerce design professionals will put you ahead of your competition and have your customers coming back for more.

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FOOTWEAR CALL FOR PAPERS GREAT SUCCESS Ninety-five abstracts received during the Call for Papers revealed an increasing interest in the footwear industry for the UITIC Congress. The 20th edition of the International Technical Footwear Congress will take place in Porto, Portugal from the 16th to the 18th of May. Nineteen countries representing the main worldwide footwear players have presented their ideas for the in-room sessions of the UITIC Congress.

China, India, Italy, Mexico, Portugal, and Spain were the most represented countries in the Call for Papers which was open worldwide to all innovators from the footwear industry. The growth in submissions for this edition shows its audience is rapidly expanding with interest.

“The UITIC Congress is more and more interesting

API LAUNCHES LIGHTWEIGHT FOOTWEAR SOLUTION Italian company API, who specialises in the production of thermoplastic elastomeric compounds and bioplastics, was acquired by global materials company Trinseo in July 2017. API has now introduced its latest lightweight footwear solutions, APILONTM 52 EXP and APILONTM 52 LIGHT, at the SIMAC Tanning Tech in Milan.

The market demand for flexible and lightweight footwear continues to increase.

The expansion of thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU)

NEW FOOTWEAR RETAIL LANDSCAPE

The Global Footwear Retail Conference (GFRC) is a half-day event focused on how footwear retailers can transform and strengthen their business. It brings leaders from across the footwear ecosystem together to highlight best practices and discuss the new footwear retail landscape. Like-minded professionals connect and walk away with profitable ideas on how you can update your business.

Since its launch in 2015, GFRC has brought together over 100 key footwear retailers to this annual meeting. GFRC has returned to Fashion Access for their 2018 edition on 15 March 2018.

8 I February 2018

for the footwear community,” said Françoise Nicolas, UITIC’s general secretary and coordinator of the scientific committee. “We can consider the Call for Papers a great success.”

Moving forward, the proposals will be evaluated by the Scientific Committee, and the results will be released before the end of February. A selection of 2530 speeches will be delivered during the 20th UITIC Congress highlighting topics such as; new products and new services linked to consumer needs, intelligent development and manufacturing, sustainability and transparency, and human centred factories and new ways of management. “It will be a great opportunity to meet relevant experts from the main footwear manufacturing areas, to have detailed information on the state of the innovations available and to get familiar with the main technological orientations for the footwear sector,” added Nicolas.

The 20th UITIC Congress will take place in Porto at the Sheraton Hotel and includes visits to some of the leading Portuguese companies. Two extra days are reserved for additional visits to factories. For more information. visit www.porto2018.uitic.org.

Apparel Magazine is excited to be attending in May.

DR MARTENS REVISITED BY EUGÈNE RICONNEAUS

Première Vision Accessories presents a collaboration between transgressive shoe designer Eugène Riconneaus and iconic footwear brand Dr Martens for an exclusive exhibition. Riconneaus has customised iconic designs by Dr Martens using ribbons, feathers, metal accessories, rhinestones, embroidery, and other textiles.

“Transgression, empowerment, transversality are my roots that you will discover in this exhibition project,” said Riconneaus.

Première Vision Paris offers a unique global gathering of industry know-how. These companies play a crucial role in the fashion industry’s innovation and creativity.

A spokesperson from Dr Martens explained that the project quickly appealed to them as it was a natural fit. “This project provides us with an opportunity to showcase our own manufacturing process and heritage.

Eugène Riconneaus is an atypical designer, self-taught, with an enormous knowledge of street culture, and is constantly exploring new aesthetics. Eugène is playing with codes and standards. So many of these values correspond to those of Dr Martens. This exhibition is a new opportunity for us to demonstrate the versatility of our products - through the creative vision of an outside designer.”

materials offer an outstanding combination of soft touch, aesthetics and lightness. “APILON 52 EXP and APILON 52 LIGHT stand out for their excellent physical-mechanical characteristics like flexibility and long-term bond reliability to upper materials,” said Giancarlo Busa, Business Unit Manager Footwear.

“Both materials are particularly wellsuited for over moulding.”

Dedicated to the development and manufacturing of innovative footwear material for decades, API’s wide range of TPU’s provides manufacturers with almost unlimited design freedom.

THE FUTURE IS SIZELESS Japanese designer Masaya Hashimoto and Italian shoemaker Vibram collaborated to create a new generation of shoes. Inspired by the Japanese tradition of Furoshiki, the shoes use a wrapping technique and are sizeless, lightweight and lace-free. “The concept for this type of footwear was derived from the Japanese custom of packaging items by wrapping them in cloth fabric,” said Vibram. Furoshiki is a traditional Japanese wrapping cloth that is used to wrap anything from boxes to flowers to clothing.

These shoes have a simple hook and loop system after wrapping the soles around your foot. The specially designed gripping system keeps the shoes in place, and the design allows a much more flexible size. The flexible shoe is easy to carry or pack and is more comfortable without a sock. “Furoshiki is the only sole on the market that wraps around the entire foot. Because the upper is constructed with stretch fabric, it will anatomically fit nicely on any foot type and the hook and loop closure system allows for a quick, easy fit.”

The only trade event dedicated to cashmere and fine fibres

cashmereworldfair.com alongside

HONG 14-16 MARCH KONG 2018

Organisers apparelmagazine.co.nz

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FEMALE FOUNDERS COLLABORATE Kester Black’s Anna Ross (also Telstra Australian Young Business Woman of the Year) and GoTo’s Zoe Foster-Blake have conspired together to create a cruelty-free, ethical and sustainable nail polish that flatters every skin tone. Go-To’s signature peach colour is the limited edition’s versatile hue.

RATAJOWSKI NAMED NEW FACE World-renowned model, actress and activist Emily Ratajowski is the new face of luxury international haircare brand Kérastase. “I am excited and proud to be chosen as a Kérastase ambassador,” added Ratajowski. “Hair is an essential part of how I express myself. I love that feeling of clean, textured, natural hair. It instantly makes me feel more confident. I consider my hair a reflection of my inner strength. It’s not an ornament but a way to convey and empower myself.”

Available online at www.kesterblack.com and www.gotoskincare.com.

SUNSCREEN COMPLAINT RESULTS IN ACTION

Kérastase’s global president Rosa Carrico explained that Ratajowski personifies a woman in perfect harmony with her being, her sensuality and her hair. “It’s that self-confidence and inner strength that first drew us to Emily,” said Carrico. “Then we met, and we discovered an incredibly vibrant young woman who is fearless and true to her convictions. I am honoured to welcome her to the Kératase family.”

• PLM • Planning/OTB • Production • Wholesale • Retail • Purchasing • Shipments

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10 I February 2018

• Warehouse Management • Replenishment • Point of Sale

Consumer NZ lodged a complaint with the Commerce Commission about a sunscreen that failed to meet its label claims. This resulted in manufacturer Johnson & Johnson agreeing only to sell products that meet the joint Australian and New Zealand standard. This decision came three years after Consumer NZ found the company’s Neutrogena Sensitive Skin SPF60+ sunscreen failed to provide the very high protection it advertised. The commission’s investigation resulted in Johnson & Johnson signing court-enforceable undertakings that all of its products would now meet the voluntary standard. “We’ve been campaigning for a mandatory standard for years,” said Sue Chetwin, Consumer NZ chief executive. “In a country with one of the highest rates of skin cancer in the world, it’s not good enough that sunscreens can be sold that don’t meet their label claims.”

In 2017’s sunscreen test conducted by Consumer NZ, six products didn’t meet the SPF claimed on the label. This resulted in two of the products taken off the market.

Apparel21 offers an integrated system to manage and interpret data for core business activities to improve efficiencies

• Online Sales • Financials • Reporting and Analysis

info@apparel21.com

www.apparel21.com

GROUPE ROCHER TO ACQUIRE ARBONNE INTERNATIONAL Group Rocher announced it has entered into a definitive agreement to acquire Arbonne International, a leader in direct selling of botanically based beauty, personal care and nutrition products.

Arbonne International’s holding company is Natural Products Group (NPG) who also owns Nature’s Gate which is part of the acquisition.

“This acquisition will be a real asset that will enable us to strengthen our positioning in the direct selling channel, which has seen an upturn over the past few years,” said Bris Rocher, CEO of Groupe Rocher. “We also have a heritage of providing employment opportunities —dating back to my grandfather, our founder, Yves Rocher, who cared deeply about employing since he started his business. This, combined with our direct selling know-how, should foster company growth and longevity.”

With a production site and four integrated distribution sites, Arbonne is a global business with sales revenue in excess of AUD 550 million.

Approximately 800 employees and over 250,000

Bernadette Casey FOUNDER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR FOR THE FORMARY

active independent consultants contribute to the success of the Arbonne brand. Both Groupe Rocher and Arbonne share the same concept of robust brands that share real values, high quality and innovative standards, a wide range of natural products, and a strong commitment to sustainability.

“We share with Groupe Rocher commitments to pure, botanically based products and sustainability, as well as a long-term business vision that is grounded in family values,” added Kay Zanotti, Arbonne’s CEO. “We are particularly pleased with Groupe Rocher’s keen appreciation of the many benefits of the direct selling model in providing flexible income opportunities, and a positive community of professional growth for individuals.”

The Formary is a Wellingtonbased textile research and development company established in 2008 that specialises in the development of groundbreaking textiles from agricultural and post-industrial fibres.

The Formary’s consulting arm works with organisations worldwide diverting textile waste from landfill, transforming end-of- life clothing and textiles into valued feedstock for new products. Bernadette Casey’s first client was global coffee giant Starbucks, their multiyear collaborative project created closed-loop solutions from Starbuck’s vast supply of used coffee sacks. This resulted in WoJo®, a high performance, award-winning upholstery fabric, and Juton®, a hard- wearing recycled jute/ cotton canvas.

This was followed by Mibu® an interior fabric created from surplus straw generated from rice harvesting. Mibu® was selected for exhibition by the organisers of the World Exposition 2015 in Milan. “Feeding the Planet / Energy for Life” Mibu® intersects food and textiles and has since been exhibited in France and Korea.

The Formary is currently leading the NZ Textile Reuse Programme; a collaborative

GHD GOES GOLD

Selling four stylers every minute across the globe, ghd is the authority on hair styling.

Introducing its latest and most innovative technical upgrade, the new ghd gold professional styler delivers a sleeker, smoother and healthier look. The new dual-zone technology uses two heat sensors instead of one; this allows the optimum heat of 185 degrees from root to tip in every stroke. If it were any hotter, it would damage the hair, and if it were cooler, it would compromise the results. Sleep mode is another feature that switches the styler off if not used for 30 minutes, and the new heat up time is improved to 25 seconds. Universal voltage, protective plate guard, and professional length (2.7m) cable are other notable features. It’s overall new sleek design, and improved technology has resulted in a premium performance by ghd.

project with New Zealand’s leading corporations and organisations, developing scalable circular solutions for end-of- life clothing and for which The Formary won the Emerging Services category at the Wellington Gold Awards. The NZ Textile Reuse Programme takes a systems approach, enabling the extraction of higher value from the resource and creating a step change in the management of used clothing.

She is the topic of a Forward Film documentary, highlighting exceptional people and world-changing ideas that are impacting the course of human development.

Most recently, Casey was invited to speak at the 2017 Social Enterprise World Forum on Guardianship, Stewardship and the Environment from a clothing perspective.

Casey has worked for a number of clothing brands, is on the board of Dunedin Fashion Week, and guest judge for the last two years at The Oversew Fashion Awards (NZ). She holds an MSc in Marketing from the University of Liverpool; her research explored ethical consumer purchasing behaviour.

Her new monthly column in Apparel Magazine will discuss fashion and clothing from a sustainability perspective, and how we can celebrate the best of the fashion industry.

Its creativity, craftsmanship and irreplaceable role in self-expression, while also discussing the work being done and to be done improving its environmental and social impacts.

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vancouver fashion week fall /winter 2018

Allie Howard Twenty-two-year-old Allie Howard was born in Sydney and has lived there all of her life. Growing up, she loved textiles and started her textile class in her seventh year at Wenona School. In her last year of schooling, she realised she wanted to take fashion and textiles beyond high school. This led her to apply for the Fashion and Textiles degree at UTS where Howard has just completed her fourth and final year graduating with honours.

Howard enjoys the process of creating and does both design and manufacturing of her garments. “I find the time between designing and making really interesting because it is really about problem-solving to try and create your vision of what you designed on paper,” she told Apparel Magazine. Howard added that waste and sustainability are a huge issue for her, especially when competing with fast fashion. “I try to tackle fast fashion in my practice by extending the life of garments with good construction, quality fabrication and try to have aspects that make the garment able to be worn multiple ways.” She added that she also values traditional tailoring practices, and considers this when creating her pieces. Her practice brings together a synergy between technology and traditional tailoring.

At the moment, Howard works solo but works with a number of people to create her designs. Through the process of this collection, she worked with laser cutters, and leather specialists and makers. Her brand launched at the end of 2017 but has been coming together for the last four years. The next step to continue her studies and gain more international experience. “I have always been interested in the business side of fashion, and am looking at applying for Masters in Europe and New York to explore this further alongside gaining some international industry experience in an internship.” Howard would love to work and collaborate with other creatives from different design disciplines. Steering clear of wearable art, Howard appreciates designers who can bring an element of wearability and functionality to their designs.

When it comes to marketing, she believes online would suit her best at the moment as her pieces are one-offs and not made for mass production. “I think online is a great way to market yourself because people can find you from all over the world.”

When asked to showcase her designs at Vancouver Fashion Week, Howard said the opportunity was too good to pass up. “It really is the start of expanding myself internationally. It will be amazing to see what other brands are also involved at VFW and network with people from all over the world.”

Her upcoming show at Vancouver Fashion Week will explore one idea to its absolute limit. “I have begun to explore beyond what I had already created both textile and shape wise. I’m excited to show some looks that I haven’t shown yet, extending the collection from six looks to twelve,” she said. “I have tried to create some more unusual pieces and unexpected combinations for the runway.”

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SI_MEE_COLLECTIONS Rosemarie Macklin humbly looks forward to meeting buyers and having the opportunity to be another step closer to her goals at Vancouver Fashion Week. “I appreciate the ability to have an international audience introduced to SI_MEE_COLLECTIONS,” she added. Her new design that pairs leather and delicate fabric together which Macklin said is not typical. The 51-yearold grew up in London, Leicestershire, and Nottingham. Educated at Arnold and Carlton College of Business, her hobbies include antiquing and market rummaging for forgotten things.

Macklin’s grew up surrounded by a generation of family fashion icons, and fashion has always been a part of her world. Her grandmother was a seamstress who taught her mother and her mother’s twin sister how to sew. This was passed onto Macklin. The first proper garment she made was a silk wrap skirt which at the time was simple and timeless. “My training is raw natural talent, and I have an eye for all things unique and appealing.” Macklin works with a few manufacturers but prefers to hand sewing from a dressmaker with a passion for what they do. Sustainability is essential to Macklin when designing. She aspires to one day have SI_ MEE_COLLECTIONS make women feel unique, sexy and classy long after she is no longer here. As the sole designer alongside her core team of four, Macklin leaves her door open for collaborations.

Her bricks and mortar structure is one year old but was three years in the making. “It all started with my husband saying ‘now that you have reached mid-life, it’s time for you to live your dream and show the world your true passion’. As a gift, he gave me the keys to my boutique,” she told Apparel Magazine. Macklin wants to grow SI_MEE_COLLECTIONS’ boutiques into major cities and join high-end retailers that hold labels such as Gucci, Fendi, Prada, and so on. She welcomes the opportunity to be stocked with new retailers globally. Social media has been a great tunnel to find her audience and Macklin respects the roles of influencers. Macklin wants her clients to always feel confident and beautiful in her designs. “SI_MEE came from my own philosophy that not all bodies are created equal.”

Macklin’s biggest influence is all of the women in her life. “Those here and others who have passed. I live with the memories of their contribution to my lessons in fashion and their love of designers like Ossie Clarke and Anne Lowe.”

It all started with my husband saying ‘now that you have reached mid-life, it’s time for you to live your dream and show the world your true passion’. As a gift, he gave me the keys to my boutique.

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Allison Nicole Designs Allison Berger is the brainchild behind Allison Nicole Designs. She grew up in Laurel, Maryland in America and attended St. Vincent Pallotti High School while interning at a design and sewing studio. Berger then attended Marymount University in Arlington, VA, studying Fashion Design and working at a design and sewing studio. Later she transferred to Colorado State University where she received her BA in Apparel and Merchandising, and Apparel Design and Production.

Now twenty-five-years-old, Berger works with a team of four to create every piece in-house. Berger is the sole design and prefers to design. “I am working with a few team members teaching them the style I prefer to produce the quality masterpieces,” explained Berger.

“I am currently in the process of finding the right manufacturer that would be a good fit with my brand.”

Fashion has always been Berger’s passion; she loves to create beautiful pieces that others can enjoy. She recalls her grandmothers’ sewing, embroidering, drawing, and painting. The first thing Berger ever made herself was a couch pillow with hand-embroidery. She was around nine years old. “Both of my grandmothers taught me when I was young. I learned more hand-sewing and hand-embroidery from one grandmother, while I learned more about the sewing machine from the other,” she mentioned. “When I was a teenager and interning at a sewing and design studio, I learned a lot about tailoring and alterations from the head designer.”

Allison Nicole Designs is now 11 months old and started when Berger graduated college. The first collection that launched her brand was her senior collection from college paired with a few additional pieces. Her brand values are fair trading, traditional tailoring, customisation, and impeccable customer service.

Berger is working on moving her brand into boutiques and retailers. She is also working on completing the online store and securing a commercial building for their workroom and store. Social media has been a crucial element to growing her brand with followers, potential clients and other opportunities. “I would absolutely love for the brand to be a globally known one. Other plans and goals consist of helping women feel gorgeous and growing the brand. I want all women to feel special and important when wearing these pieces.”

Berger was drawn to Vancouver Fashion Week because there are so many designers from all over the world that showcase their designs. “I am looking forward to being part of Vancouver Fashion Week,” she added. “Because of the exposure and potential clients we would gain.”

The intricate and delicate floral detailing will be a highlight of Berger’s show at Vancouver Fashion Week this season.

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Yuner Shao Born and raised in China, Yuner Shao came to America when she was 16 years old and attended Parsons School of Design for her bachelor’s degree. Now 22, she resides in New York City. When Shao was younger, she saw how her father loved styling his clothes. “He gave me so much inspiration when I was young,” Shao said.

She watched a lot of TV too, the sumptuous costumes from Chinese historical dramas stood out the most. Her favourite designer is Provenza Schouler.

The first thing Shao learned was the deconstruction of a garment. “It was a class project, we bought second-hand garments from the store and started draping it on the mannequin. That was the first piece of clothing I made in my life.”

Although Shao is not a good sewer, she enjoys the design process and gets a sense of achievement every time she turns her inspiration into final products.

Working with manufacturers, Shao always checks each step with them from the beginning. With her small team, she is the designer and production coordinator. YUNER SHAO started in 2017 and is looking to be stocked in retail stores now.

“I’m always thinking about fashion brands with different systems. It is an interesting industry, but needs a revolution to change the ways to go to the market,” she explained. “I think social media is a very important way to promote a brand.”

After some research, Shao decided to showcase her designs at Vancouver Fashion Week. “I looked at some designers’ runway shows from previous seasons. I feel it is an exciting opportunity for young designers.”

Vancouver Fashion Week’s Fall/Winter 2018 season is Shao’s first-time participating at VFW and is looking forward to showing her new collection and building more opportunities with other designers. “Fashion week is the most direct way to present designer’s work to the general public. I’m hoping to gain experience and build more connections from VFW,” Shao said. “Since most designers’ style nowadays is minimalism, my collection focused on prints and graphics which will bring lots of colours.”

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Y-3 Resene Happy

Raeburn Resene Adrenalin

T

he industry can’t seem to knock its addiction to casual sporty style filled with comfortable and functional pieces. From catwalks to streetstyle, luxe altheisurewear is here to stay. From Sportsmax to Raeburn, each brand has incorporated luxe sportswear on their own terms to create flexible wardrobe essentials.

Serena Williams could wear Tory Sport’s RTW Spring 2018 Collection straight onto Wimbledon’s grass courts. Turning its back on the current sports luxe trends of black leggings and strappy sports bras, Tory Burch’s collection is reminiscent of 1970’s tennis attire with pleated skirts and high neck sweaters in a colour similar to Resene Alabaster. Burch opted for functionality first, February 2018 2018 16 I February

scorecard sized pockets, and wicking fabrics took centre stage. Contrasting pops of white and bold colours were paired with geometric prints. Burch inspired the masses with a range that transitions from matching pastel tracksuits to a 70’s inspired floral neoprene wetsuit.

20,000 Leagues Under The Sea met George Orwell’s 1984 in Raeburn’s Men’s Fall 2018 collection as arctic materials and bright orange neoprene scuba suits combine to form this handsome chill protecting the collection.

Puffers in collaboration with Finisterre, helicopter jackets sourced from Britain’s Royal Air Force and Soviet-era style patterns give Raeburn’s collection a military-esque wintery blast vibe. Splashes of bright orange resembling Resene’s Adrenalin can be found

throughout the collection from merino wool turtleneck jumpers to scuba suits complete with neoprene mittens attached via cuffs.

Sportsmax’s 2018 Pre-Fall collection is a sophisticated marriage of sports luxe and business wear. Maxi cashmere capes and feminine Jersey dresses fit with high-tech materials such as nylon inserts, and surf wetsuits influenced ergonomic stitching.

Moody blues and vibrant reds travel through the collection.

A cape in a hue close to Resene Double Resolution Blue finds its place paired with black leggings and a flowing dress. In this collection, sports luxe was taken to the next level with jacquard dresses and sweaters doused in sparkling silver sequins.

Tory Sport Resene Alabaster

Off-White Resene True Blue

Sportmax Resene Double Resolution Blue

Y-3 debuted their latest sneakers at their Men’s Fall 2018 fashion show, sneakers that will no doubt have sneakerheads lining up down the street and around the corner.

Printed with 3D printing technology the soles of the shoes took on almost a liquid-like structure and ranged in colour from bright yellow, similar to Resene Happy, to dark navy and black.

Giant sized scarves were rampant throughout Yohji Yamamoto’s collection, swallowing the models as they attempted to walk the runway gracefully. The iconic seventies adidas tracksuit made a comeback as did camouflage in the form of brown-hued floral prints.

Colours available from

Back Eye Patch Left Field

It was a scene straight out of Lords of Dogtown at the Black Eye Patch Spring 2018 fashion show as the anonymous collection had models skateboarding down the runway as bikers popped wheelies around them.

Baggy shorts, oversized hoodies and skater belts circa 1990’s gave the show an athletic theme. Logomania took centre stage as models were dressed from head to toe in items covered in the designer’s logo.

A spectrum of colours filled the runway, a tone close to Resene Left Field covered bags, coats and jackets while bright shades of orange, blue and yellow also made an appearance.

Resene ColorShops

www.resene.co.nz

Off-White’s Pre Fall 2018 collection was an interesting mix of office wear and sports luxe.

Pencil skirts, pantsuits and flowing dresses were contrasted with black mesh tights and tracksuit pants close to Resene True Blue.

If Saving Private Ryan and The Devil Wears Prada had some weird crossover (Meryl Streep and Matt Damon, who wouldn’t want that), Virgil Abloh’s collection would be the result. The juxtaposition between the structured military style suits and feminine silhouettes giving the range a vintage yet contemporary feel.

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Footwear trends and an ode to ugly fashion I bet you’ve had to double-take on a pair of shoes lately. Was it on your morning commute, in the shoe department at a store or while scrolling through Instagram?

Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITED

And not in a ‘what stunning heels!’ kind of way. We’re talking about a ‘wow, that’s what shoes look like these days?’ head scratch moment. If you really haven’t, have this one on us...

calls for constant innovation to create trends which give the category a storyline, and get consumers shopping. Then there are the odd or unusual products that never move beyond that first visual sting. The hairy fur lining of the Gucci slider and no doubt the thigh-high Ugg boots above.

Those products are subversive, poke fun at the ideals of fashion and taste, combining textures and colors that are visually jarring or challenge the norm.An increase in this kind of product right now is, on the one hand, escapism from an increasingly confusing world, and on the other is perfectly in line with the way millennial and Gen Z consumers are redefining and challenging archaic definitions around gender, race and sexuality.

That means we can expect to see more of this kind of product and increased demand for it.

WHY UGLY WORKS Thanks to ‘endless scroll’ culture, today’s consumers are obsessed with newness and discovery. When a product strikes us as ‘ugly’, it means that visually it’s fresh and we’re not yet sure how to interpret it. This is the hook that will get eyeballs on product.

We’ve seen this especially in the sneaker category, which has now enjoyed years of trend attention. Consumer lifestyles mean that we want to keep wearing sneakers. But that

18 I February 2018

Another footwear trend to start moving on takes a hybrid approach to shoe styles. In a Frankenstein-ish mash up, we’re seeing the luxury market fuse together unlikely components. Alexander Wang’s sock boot upper meets an espadrille sole to create something entirely new and uneasy on the eye.

Gucci has reworked its successful hirsute slider with a clog shape (watch out for these even without fur), Ash have a knitted sock boot with floral embroidery and many designers are layering up fabrics and textures in unlikely combinations. This is a more-ismore trend, where footwear takes on a naive, almost prehistoric look because the silhouettes are so irregular to us.

WHAT’S NEXT IN FOOTWEAR TRENDS – FALL 2018 AND BEYOND There’s a fine line between covetable ugly and laughable ugly. The way to spot which ugly trends will survive is all about timing.

You want to see enough influential luxury brands come out with related styles within the same space of time – usually a few months ahead of the ‘official’ start of the new season.

Now is an excellent time for detecting new footwear trends.

And how do you know when that trend connects? Anyone who works in footwear knows to disregard fast sell outs on the outlier sizes, which are never stocked as deeply.

Instead, watch for that middle band of sizes selling through.

DAD IN SPACE SNEAKERS

Clearly we have a lot to talk about. ‘Ugly’ fashion isn’t new, but it is here to stay. Time to make your peace and embrace it.

THE NEW MAXIMALISM

First up, is the oversized sneaker. It sits somewhere between 90s dad and Star Trek. The sole is cumbersome and sports brands will talk about the ‘energy return’ technology behind these chunkier shapes, while luxury brands will riff off the cartoonish forms they create.

Fastenings lean towards velcro and elastic, materials are clashed, panelling is haphazard and colorblocking is key. This shape stems from Balenciaga’s Triples and was given further kudos

by Yeezy’s Desert Rat 500, which are bound to sell out year-long.

River Island has been one of the fastest mass market retailers to latch onto the trendi.

WHEN TRENDS CLIMB So just how rapidly are new footwear trends formed? One way to track that is to look at when the best selling trends from Fall 2017 in your market first started to appear. Do that by following the numbers of new arrivals.

Footwear trends begin to climb four months ahead of their peak season. What’s interesting is the timing of arrivals. Velvet began to climb from May, and red ankle boots from as early as April. It took around six months for those trends to reach popularity, which is slower than fashion apparel. That’s great news for footwear retailers wanting to keep abreast of market changes!

FAST FASHION IS GETTING CHEAPER & LUXURY… LUX-ER? While on footwear, we should note something else we observed in our research. Over the last three years, there has been a shift in pricing.

On the mass market, with retailers like ASOS, H&M and Zara, the shunt has been downwards, with an increased emphasis on styles below $40.

Meanwhile, in luxury the shunt has done the opposite, moving away from the $200 or less ranges and instead bolstering out the number of styles priced between $600 and $1,200 at retailers like Barneys, Farfetch and Neta-Porter. These changes are further evidence that footwear needs its trends, whether it’s to justify an elevated price point in either the crowded mass retail or within a changing luxury market.

Rob Bourne Head of Card Services, American Express

Apparel spoke to Rob Bourne from American Express New Zealand about some of the misconceptions retailers have about American Express and why retailers should get on board.

American Express has a simple and transparent service fee that accepts all types of American Express cards. Their simple fee structure reflects the services and value they provide by connecting their card members with various businesses.

“I think one of the biggest misconceptions is that accepting American Express is expensive with little value provided in return, which simply isn’t true,” explained Bourne.

Their fees reflect the value they bring to each industry, which include larger transactions their premium customers will now be presenting you with as a new warmly welcoming Amex merchant. Merchant pay no set-up fees, monthly or annual fees, and no minimum transaction fees. “Another common myth is we’re a global company with no local relevance or connection to Kiwis. When in fact, we launched in New Zealand back in 1973 – with over 40 years’ experience delivering value to New Zealand businesses and our Card Members.”

Accepting American Express provides instant access to their unique network of customers, both locally and globally. Bourne added that they know on average their customers make 20 percent more personal purchases when travelling and 34 percent earn more than $125K per annum. Meaning they spend more than the average customer. “We know our customers love to travel and a spot of retail therapy.

Welcoming Amex is a great way to attract tourist spend, and for kiwi Card Members to drive repeat business to your store.”

Bourne added that American Express ensure your cash flow is maintained with next day business payments along with world-class fraud protection, and great service.

American Express offers merchants and customers peace of mind with their sophisticated fraud protection and identity software. Their systems routinely monitor accounts, can detect a change in spending behaviour, and uses SafeKey, the latest security software, to help protect you. For larger businesses who have a high volume of online transactions, you may be interested in American Express’ online fraud reduction product, Accertify, which can be used for ALL credit cards not just American

I think one of the biggest misconceptions is that accepting American Express is expensive with little value provided in return, which simply isn’t true.

Express. This is a paid solution provided exclusively by American Express.

“We regularly offer unique benefits and cashback offers that reward customers for shopping, leading to an increase in foot traffic and merchant transaction” As a company, they have evolved with their customers. “We have a strong product suite of cards ranging from no annual fee, right up to our platinum products – so there is a card for everyone.” They are leading the rewards market with their Airpoints Platinum Card which is the fastest way to earn

Airpoints Dollars ™ for credit card purchases in New Zealand.

American Express is all about rewarding everyday spend, so they have evolved their rewards to cater for the changing needs of their customers. In particular, they are focused on travel rewards, cash back offers, and membership reward points. “We continue to innovate with new benefits we offer, like complimentary smartphone screen insurance on some of our Cards.” Focused on ensuring they attract the very best Card Members in New Zealand and abroad, American Express has developed new ways to ensure they connect those Card Members with Kiwi businesses. Their card member force has continued to grow along with their tens of thousands of merchants across New Zealand that ranges from everyday spend within supermarkets, petrol stations, hardware and department stores to small business owners.

It’s very easy for any business to sign up, just by calling their toll-free merchant hotline on 0800 800 855 and request to become an Amexaccepting merchant. Standard setup forms follow with some quick background checks to satisfy NZ regulations, and then the terminals are loaded with Paymark/Eftpos NZ and you’re ready to go! Once the forms are completed, Amex handles everything so you can get back to running your business and wait for the confirmation from American Express that you’re all set up. “We’ll also send out a welcome pack including complimentary point of purchase items for you to let your customers know you now warmly welcome American Express.”

“Quite simply, our customers spend more on Amex. We’re also attracting younger customers to American Express with 50 percent of new customers are under 35 years old. Our customers are early adopters with technology, love to travel, dine out and shop.” apparelmagazine.co.nz

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accessory alert

BESS STUDIO Nicole Skyes grew up on Auckland’s North Shore and studied Fine Arts at Elam majoring in Design.

From then, Skyes went on to have a successful and highly awarded creative career in advertising as an art director and later on a creative director.

Growing up, Skyes loved scarves. She collected vintage ones in the 90s and used to wear them as tops and headbands. Her love for them reignited when she lived in the Northern Hemisphere for seven years in London and Dublin. “Silk scarves are a hugely popular accessory in Europe,” she said. “I loved wandering around the Liberty scarf hall on a dreary day in London. It was truly magical, all those amazing patterns and colours in one room. Heaven.”

Skyes’ biggest inspiration has been her group of friends that have forged their own creative paths.

“They inspire me every day to keep being curious, keep pushing boundaries.” She believes that she is heavily influenced by her love of contemporary art and the creative practice she learned during her studies.

Her mother was a great sewer and used to make a lot of Skyes’ clothing when she was younger. “I always felt so individual and unique at school in her

creations. We used to go into town to the fabric shop on a Saturday and pick out what we needed for my next outfit,” Skyes said. “I loved the fabric shops, the rolls of colour and texture all laid out in a row.”

With no formal training in fashion, Skyes has always loved and followed fashion. With stacks upon stacks of Vogue magazines, she has collected and poured over for years, her strong design background merged naturally with

fashion. Working in the team of two, BESS launched in July 2017 in the New Zealand market. The name originates from Skyes’ great-grandmother whose nickname was Bess. “She was a very well put together lady and loved to rock an accessory or two.”

Skyes creates the designs and then works closely with her small boutique manufacturer in the UK who prints and manages the finishing. “Each of the neckerchiefs and classic squares is hand-finished in the traditional style with a hand-rolled edge,” she explained. “The hand-finishing was a really important design decision for me, as it nods to the heritage of the silk scarf itself. It also creates a unique and special product where every scarf has its own quirks and differences.” BESS scarves are a high-end luxury accessory; therefore, everything must be the best quality possible. From the silk to the finishing, the swing tags to the packaging – everything is highly considered. “We want the experience at every stage to be a special one. I also value supporting local businesses.”

BESS was built on social media. It’s been their main channel of communication and expression of the brand so far. The scarves are currently available exclusively online at www.bess.studio and more recently on www.makersmrkt.com in Australia.

However, this year they plan to move into some bricks and mortar offerings. “This will be a great step as I think it’s important to be able to touch, feel and play with the scarves, they are very tactile pieces.” Her goal is to one day be in the Liberty scarf hall.

To become a stock or for more information, call +64 21 0741 300 or email nicole@bess.studio.

BORROWED EARTH Adele Robinson grew up in Beach Haven, Auckland and at school, art was always her top subject. Even as a young child, Robinson was making and selling her creations. “Back thenI sold plants that I had grown or clothing I made to sell at markets or to friends,” she said. “I got into ceramics because mum was a parttime potter and she had a kick wheel in the garage, so I started playing with that when I was about 12.”

Growing up, she would watch her mother bring home her pieces from the classes she did and would go with her mother to small pottery studio sales on the weekends.

Heavily inspired by nature from New Zealand’s beautiful land, Borrowed Earth is all about showcasing New Zealand’s unique viewpoint to the rest of the world. With no formal training, Robinson added that the best way to learn is just to give it a go and see what happens. Robinson worked for Collis Studios many years ago which she said was an amazing experience.

“Peter Collis is one of New Zealand’s master craftspeople with so much knowledge and skill, that was a truly inspiring time.”

Borrowed Earth sprang to life in the 90s when Robinson left her office job. She started to create a few things to sell at markets and quickly became a regular at the Takapuna Market. Fast forward a few years and her partner Richard came on board as the other half of Borrowed Earth and together they have never looked back. The duo manufactures every piece themselves and takes great pride in the fact that everything is handmade from start to finish. Everything is hand

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decorated and each piece unique. “Having an idea in your head and then transforming that idea into reality is a slow but rewarding process.” Making sustainable and ethical pieces is also important to the brand.

Borrowed Earth tells a story and wants to create pieces that people will treasure. “If we are going to make something, we want it to have a positive impact on the customer and our planet,” she said. “Conscious consumerism is what we are about. Every dollar you spend creates the world you want to live in.”

When it comes to online and bricks and mortar, Robinson said it is essential to have both; however, when it comes to Borrowed Earth, nothing beats bricks and mortar. “When you can pick up a piece touch it and make that connection that only handmade has that’s magic, but in this day and age online has its merits too. Sometimes we are just too busy to go out and shop and who doesn’t like to hit the buy now

button in the comfort of your own home.” Social media has provided a great platform for the brand to showcase their work quickly. “Because all of our work is handmade and each piece is different, we can just take a quick photo and get it out there.”

Looking to the future, they have lots of new ideas and designs for their next ceramic collection. “We want to build up our Maori inspired collection with Kowhaiwahi design and Whakatauki.” Robinson added that she would love to expand their recycled furniture and Kowahiwahi soft furnishing range.”

Currently stocked throughout New Zealand galleries, gift stores and apparel retailers, Borrowed Earth can also be found in Australia. “We are always looking for great stores where our work would fit into and expand our brand overseas.”

For more information visit www.borredearth.co.nz or email borrowedearth@xtra.co.nz

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Seven trends buyers will be looking for on Fall 2018 runways THE FALL 2018 WOMENSWEAR SHOWS START NOW. Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITED

Over five weeks the industry will be thrown in front of thousands of runway looks, big announcements and attempts to spot the hottest new trend. But really the signs are already out there as to what the industry needs from fashion weeks. After all, retailers don’t pluck trends from the ether – it’s a careful balance of what’s worked previously weighed up against how much newness their consumer can handle.

So looking to data shows the hot spots where new trends will sit, whether that’s looking at movement on the latest arrivals, understanding how a category has shifted in importance or analysing how color performs historically.

What will be hot in Fall 2018 womenswear? Retail is crying out for the following items.

BUYER’S WISH LIST OF FALL 2018 TRENDS: 1. KILTS

Burberry, Christopher Kane and McQ did the style for Spring/Summer 2018 – an influential pack of designers watched globally. Next up, mass market trend-leaders Topshop and ASOS have recently introduced styles into their offering, but the market still has exceptionally low penetration.

Take note – they sell out fast – on average in 25 days. Bearing a tartan print, they’re well suited to the fall season, and the cross over style riffs on the nostalgic sportswear (netball team anyone?) that’s so prevalent right now.

2. FURLESS FURRY TEXTURES Doing real fur right now is a risky business – the ethics around the industry have fallen out of favour with consumers. Since Gucci’s fur free announcement, there has been a 124 percent

22 I February 2018

increase in “faux fur” and “vegan” new arrivals compared to the same period the year before. That means this season we’re expecting to see even more designers ditching furs and getting innovative with manmade furry textures. Which is great news for buyers, because playful textures have performed brilliantly in Fall 2017.

So well in fact that some retailers are still introducing new furry outerwear styles as late as February. DvF, H&M and Boohoo have all introduced new pink faux fur pieces into stores in the last few days and Selfridges has introduced three new styles of luxury faux fur brand Shrimps. They’re the brand to watch – with their outerwear pieces priced on average $619 taking just 47 days to sell out.

3. UTILITY

Look at recent new arrivals in luxury bottoms and there’s a utilitarian vibe coming through. We’re talking square cuts, deep pockets, heavyweight cottons and cargo pants. Most notable is Marques’ Almeida’s buckled, patched and pocketed khakis.

Let’s not forget it was these guys who kicked off the frayed denim trend…

The mass market is latching onto the trend, with buckle and belt fastenings in skirts and pants at Topshop and cargo pants at Boohoo. We’ll see an uptick in utility referencing for Fall 2018 as it’s so well suited to outerwear – think heavy duty trench coats, wide and straight pants and work jackets.

4. BUST FOCUS

We called it at the start of the year – 2018 is focused on the bust. Which is a relief for the abs and shoulders.

On the Fall 2018 runways we expect to see contrast stitching delineating the bust, as well as seam work and floating bras.

Retail needs this trend because bared shoulders have saturated the market for two years.

Saint Laurent, Alexander Wang and Alexa Chung are introducing bust-focused dresses and tops for Spring, with plunging necklines or mock forestry corsetry.

5. HANKY HEMS

Fashion has been transfixed with asymmetry and deconstruction in the past few seasons. In pre-Fall we spotted that coming through in handkerchief hemlines.

Stella McCartney, Peter Pilotto, Chloé and Isabel Marant are doing hanky hem skirts for Spring 2018 that are arriving into stores now.

Carrying this style over to Fall 2018 will update the winter peasant dress from Fall 2017.

With an average price point of $246 why does luxury love this style so much? It uses a lot of fabric and requires skilled pattern cutting, making it less easy to emulate at lower price points.

6. WHITE BOOTS

White boots were a big footwear trend for Fall 2017 where new arrivals grew 100 percent compared to Fall 2016. Even more interesting is the 178 percent increase in new arrivals in the last month – which shows continued demand this year.

Of course, summer isn’t too boot friendly, so this trend will certainly carry through to Fall 2018.

7. BAGS WORN SHORT AND HIGH We’re anticipating an increase in small (but not micro) bags worn around waists, slug across shoulders or thrown around the neck. Basically however you wear your bag when your arms are full and you’re fighting to get onto the subway. It’s got that functional look, which is very now.

They’re also selling well. Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Alexander Wang and Marc Jacobs have all introduced waist bags/fanny packs in the last three months and only 15 percent of styles remain in stock.

Weekday, ASOS and Forever 21 are leading the mass market.

For Fall 2018, we’re looking out for the camera bag shape, with super wide strap, worn short.

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XINGCHEN LU AUT

Xingchen (Doris) Lu was born in Japan but spent most of her childhood in China. Lu felt it was it was almost impossible for her to become a designer. “I didn’t know how to dress myself up until I turned 18,” she said. “My mother is who changed me and made me love fashion through teaching me and helping me dress up. Because of her, I fell in love with pleats and layers.”

While at AUT, Lu learned the design process from concept to final product.

Designing is always her favourite part, but is also very into the process of pattern making, as this part of the process helps Lu think and develop her designs.

In her end of year graduate collection, Lu designed five looks inspired by Gozen Tomoe’s achievement. “It shows the power of oneself to break stereotypes and discover his or her true strengths. The aim of my collection is to help customers realise such power,” she added. “Specifically, I hope my collection can inspire wearers to gain the strength and confidence they need to defeat adversity and direct their own lives.”

In ancient Japan, women were often perceived to be powerless, and warfare was a mostly male affair.

This was why Gozen Tomoe left such a legend behind her. Unlike almost any other women of her time, Tomoe was an onna-bugeisha, a consummate female warrior. She entered the Genpei war as a leading commander, and her bravery and strength in battle earned her the title of ‘a warrior worth a thousand’.

“In my collection, I have included many elements of the traditional samurai pants, Hakama. This is seen in the dramatically wide legs, the unique way

24 I February 2018

of dressing and mainly the seven pleats. The seven pleats are divided into five on the front and two on the back of the Hakama.” The five pleats on the front represent courage, humanity, justice, courtesy, and sincerity. The two on the back represent loyalty and honour.

Since Lu was little, she had always been interested in exploring the two countries’ cultures. In learning the history, Lu was shocked when she realised that while the two cultures had many differences, they both had certain levels of gender discrimination against women. Hoping to make a change, she became aspired to not only fight for gender equality but also combat all sorts of prejudice. “This collection is a part of my battle, and I hope it can help people gain confidence and believe in their power to overcome adversities, just like Gozen Tomoe.”

Interning at Moochi as a production assistant, Lu was mainly helping the team with labelling

and packaging. However, they also gave her the opportunity to learn how to do sample cutting and took her through the production process.

Walking into the fashion industry Lu explained that her biggest challenge is to create a new brand in today’s fashion climate. “Customers are always after something new and unique.” Lu interviewed someone working in the Chinese fashion industry who mentioned that in China, the industry is running very fast. “It is very hard to survive if you do not renew the designs.” The other challenge is brand sensitivity. “The brand’s name has a huge impact on retailing. One of the designers mentioned that nowadays consumers are buying for brand names rather than clothes.”

Lu’s influences from both her Japanese and Chinese backgrounds give her a huge advantage when it comes to designing. She would love to have her own brand in the future and to achieve that, she needs to gather as much experience as possible. “I want to be a design assistant or production assistant to learn more about the fashion industry.”

GEMMA CORNISH MASSEY

Growing up in a very athletic family in Wellington, Gemma Cornish’s three passions were swimming, design and fashion. As a competitive swimmer for 13 years, starting at the age of six, she was always obsessed with her swimwear and wanted to have designs that no one else had. “That meant usually sourcing them from overseas. My passion for sports and fashion were interwoven from the start,” said Cornish.

Right from when she was a little girl, she knew she wanted to be a fashion designer and as she grew up nothing changed. As a child she would play with paper cut out clothing, sketching designs and to her mother’s horror – she would cut metres into beautiful material in an attempt to make garments with no patterns nor any idea of how to make clothes.

“At school I took as many art and design classes I could to develop my skills, so much so that in my last year of high school I didn’t have any end of year examinations, as all my subjects were portfolio based.

I attended Saint Catherine’s College, which at the time only provided a textile class for year 9 and 10 students. My form teacher, Joe McMenamin was also the art and photography teacher and knew that I had always aspired to be a fashion designer.”

After taking fashion design in year 11, McMenamin pushed Cornish to pursue fashion for the rest of her schooling. McMenamin even ran a class despite not having much experience in the

sewing department and then went out of his way to find a teacher trained in fashion and design to take over. After attending Massey University’s open day, Cornish knew it was where she wanted to study. “I was so excited that I would finally be able to fulfil my childhood dreams of becoming a designer.”

While at Massey, Cornish learned the virtue of tenacity, to never take the easy option and to push the limits of her abilities. Her most significant learning curve occurred when she was stumped with some problematic aspect of a design. “Giving up was never an option, and if I didn’t have the skills to complete it, I would learn them,” she explained. “Pushing through these key learning moments has been worth it every time.”

Her Spring/Summer 2018 collection titled ‘POP’ was inspired by a quote by Albert Camus. “In the midst of winter, I found there was, within me, an invincible summer.”

The collection embodies who Cornish is as a designer and is a celebration of summer.

“I designed it with a very limited colour palette, based on colour psychology, only using colours that embody a summer state of mind. I was also very inspired by the pops of swirling colours used in the 60’s, and like this era, I was very inspired by pop art.

Pop art is reflected in the aesthetics of the collection, and the custom-made print and laser cutting details I designed.” Crafted solely from neoprene, Cornish wanted to create a playful wetsuit collection.

Water has heavily influenced every collection Cornish has designed. “I find such inspiration in the ocean as water can do such incredible things and has so much beauty.” Cornish explained that water

creates so many different textiles and prints and that it forms beautiful organic shapes. “If I’m not designing something for the water, then you can be ensured that my collection’s inspiration will still somehow link back to water.”

Cornish believes knowing how garments are constructed is an invaluable skill in itself and develops design skills as well. She added that it gives you the opportunity to work 2D to 3D to test out design features and discover what you can do with the material you are working with. “When you know how a garment is sewn together, you also know how much you can push the limits with your design.”

During her time in high school, she volunteered for New Zealand brand Starfish, a label that promotesd sustainability and this introduced Cornish to how fashion can be a sustainable industry. She also volunteered at New Zealand Fashion Week as a dresser which she thoroughly enjoyed. Especially watching the behind the scenes of a major show, and seeing first-hand how the shows run. “I will always remember dressing Trelise Cooper’s models for the show, and how exciting it was to see the designer herself encouraging her models before the show started.” In Sydney, Cornish had the opportunity to do a one-day internship at InStyle Magazine and a fashion PR company. This was another eye opener for Cornish as it was intriguing for her to see how fashion magazines are put together.

Starting out in the local fashion industry, Cornish said gaining credibility is her biggest challenge as a designer and as a brand. She wants to make waves in the swimwear market offering wetsuits that reflect the fun that is to be had. She recently launched her website www.gemmalee.nz and social media channels to help establish herself as a New Zealand designer.

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PHOTOGRAPHY

Lookbooks Campaigns Runway Beauty www.caitlanmitchell.com 021 615 316 09 304 0142

26 I February 2018

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706 caitlan@reviewmags.com

security brief

E-commerce requires beefed up cybersecurity to function well In an increasingly interconnected world, online shopping and electronic transactions have now transcended its innovation status to become part of our daily lives. Its ease of use and convenience, can also mean significant security risks since sensitive information and personal data are routinely shared among business owners and shoppers.

Samantha Cruz, Horangi Cyber Security cyber operations researcher.

SOME THESE SECURITY RISKS INCLUDE THE FOLLOWING: Financial data theft/fraud: Many attackers target personal information such as names, addresses and credit card numbers. This allows them to make purchases online using someone else’s payment information. One method being used is called pharming or using fraudulent websites to manipulate people into giving out their credentials.

Another more effective and insidious method is deliberately targeting specific users and manipulating them into giving their personal information (also known as spear phishing). Other exploits used to steal financial information include, but are not limited to: SQL Injection, Cross-Site Scripting, Path Traversal, Session Hijacking, and Drive-by Downloading

Distributed Denial of Service (DDoS) attacks:

A Denial of Service attack’s aim is to take down e-commerce sites by flooding them with requests. This kind of attack overloads the e-commerce site to the point where it can’t handle anymore requests, making the service slow down or even go offline. Slow service for an e-commerce site means loss of potential revenue and massive impact to brand reputation.

Man in the middle attack:

Man in the Middle attacks do exactly what they say — the attacker eavesdropping or intercepting the user’s (in this case, the online shopper’s) connection with the website. Even with Secure Sockets Layer (SSL)/Transport Layer Security (TLS) in place, there are still ways attackers can trick the browser to gain

access to the plain text data.

EFFECTS OF A SECURITY BREACH FOR AN E-COMMERCE SITE If such an attacker manages to compromise an e-commerce site, the following can happen:

Loss of revenue: The first, most obvious effect of a security breach is loss of income. Small businesses shell out an average of $38,000 to recover from a single data breach in direct expenses alone. On top of that, a company that experiences a security breach can also be held accountable for not following data protection policies, leading to hefty fines that can lead to a business’s insolvency.

Damage to brand reputation:

Apart from the direct loss of sales due to site unavailability (due to a DDoS attack, for example), losses of sales can also be due to customers walking (or in this case, browsing) away from the shop in favour of other shops without such security breaches. Losing customers’ and stakeholders’ trust is the most harmful impact of a security breach.

PEOPLE WILL NOT DO BUSINESS WITH A BREACHED COMPANY, PLAIN AND SIMPLE.

reputation would be a scar that would take a significant amount of time to fade. That is, if it even fades at all.

Intellectual property theft/damage: Another impact of a security breach is theft and damage to intellectual property like trade secrets, blueprints, and anything else that gives a company their competitive advantage. This can mean missing out on expanding the business since the company can no longer fully implement new and innovative ideas brewing in the pipeline.

HOW TO PROTECT E-COMMERCE SITES

The good news is there are ways e-commerce shop owners can protect their websites, their customers, and their data: • Research on the e-commerce platform and payment gateway the e-commerce business runs on to ensure it complies with information security standards. Make sure the platform is compliant with the Payment Card Industry Data Security Standard (PCI DSS). PCI DSS is an information security standard defined to control how credit and debit card information is handled. To determine if the e-commerce platform is compliant, refer to Visa and Mastercard’s compliant service provider lists.

• If you plan to implement your own platform using open-source platforms like Magento, then the responsibility is on the shop owner to implement security measures. Ensure that your shop is PCIcompliant and other basic security measures are in place.

• Make sure the entire site (not just the payment area) uses HTTPS and do keep the SSL certificate updated. The certificate creates a secure connection between the user and the server. Otherwise, the data is easily accessible and readable by anyone. Contact your hosting provider if the shop is not hosted via HTTPS. • Only store customer data that is needed and make regular backups of them.

• Conduct a vulnerability scan on the online shop.

Even with security measures in place, it is possible that the site is still vulnerable from threats that are not obvious to the end user. This is where a web scanner comes in. Web scanner scans web applications for known vulnerabilities by spidering through links and ignoring pages linked outside the target domain.

SECURITY IS NUMBER ONE FROM DAY ONE

Hackers and cybercriminals only get smarter and more sophisticated with each passing year. Therefore, the onus is on business owners to make security a priority.

While a cybersecurity endeavour takes a lot of time and resources, the upfront cost is still lower than the potential losses and is a worthwhile investment for all e-commerce setups.

Even if the company is eventually able to recover the financial losses, the impact on the company’s

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SIX FALL 2018 MENSWEAR TRENDS YOU NEED

Menswear is important right now. It’s a market set to have a tantalising compounded annual growth of five percent over the next two years.

Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITED

Salivating over those figures is Nordstrom, which will open its first menswear-only store this April. And our data shows that pure play e-comm menswear retailers have grown their assortment by 45 percent in the last two years. But as an industry we are not unanimous in our approach to menswear. Our software also detected an 11 percent decrease in menswear at department stores in the last two years (compared to 6 percent cut back in women’s). And then there’s the matter of runway shows.

New York today closes out the month of men’s shows, a somewhat more scattered affair than its women’s counterpart. With many collections now fusing the two genders into one show, it’s still up in the air whether New York will host a separate menswear event next season. But this isn’t an issue inherent to menswear – the industry is reconsidering its approach to runways full stop. Whatever happens with the shows, the need for a unified market has never been greater – after all, it’s that which will inspire the consumer and lure him away from experiential, travel and technology spend. To do that, we need trends. And here they are. Over five weeks the industry will be thrown in front of thousands of runway looks, big announcements and attempts to spot the hottest new trend. But really the signs are already out there as to what the industry needs from fashion weeks. After all, retailers don’t pluck trends from the ether – it’s a careful balance of what’s worked previously weighed up against how much newness their consumer can handle.

So looking to data shows the hot spots where new trends will sit, whether that’s looking at movement on the latest arrivals, understanding how a category has shifted in importance or analysing how color performs historically. What will be hot in Fall 2018 womenswear? Retail is crying out for the following items.

Brands and retailers, make sure these pieces and themes feature in your Fall 2018 menswear assortment.

1. FOCUS ON MOVEMENT

Travel was a major theme on the Fall 2018 runways – directly mirroring the luxury menswear customers’ current lifestyle, where global travel is a given.

One interpretation of this theme was to clash global references for the modern day nomad. At Marni homely knits were paired with Chinese brocade and utility jackets. Haider Ackermann paired brocade kimono with velvet, a Breton stripe and military boots.

Elsewhere travel took on an explorer theme. But there’s one aspect that should be adhered to for any brand – the functionality and demanded versatility of the clothes we wear when travelling. The male consumers lives are more mobile than ever before. How can their wardrobes accommodate this shifting landscape? Time to get serious about technical fabrics and versatile silhouettes.

Key items: technical outerwear, multipocketed cargo pants, hiker boots and worldly fabrics and prints.

2. COLLAB ON COLLAB ON COLLAB Menswear brands excel with collaborations and Fall 2018 is strong. N.Hoolywood put reworked Timberland, Lee and Carhartt classics on its runway and Liam Hodges once again collaborated with Fila.

The most retail-ready was Junya Watanabe’s ongoing

myriad partnerships, with Canada Goose, North Face, Karrimor, Carhartt, New Balance and Levi’s. Workwear was the theme of the day, as the collection was strewn with reflective panels and utility pockets.

Hopefully this is a precursor for the women’s shows – unique product in scarce quantities give the industry its buzz.

3. VERTICAL SLOGANS You’ve received the memo that logomania has returned, but how to update it for Fall 2018?

Well, think vertically.

Following the Fall 2017 retail success of the Gucci side-striped tracksuits, the runways were packed with slogans running down the side of pants, along arms or positioned vertically on jackets.

It’s a perfectly simple way of referencing the season without having to develop entirely new lines. Go get it!

4. TARTAN CHECKS Loud, punky tartans on streetwear shapes feel super fresh, but really they’re just reworks on two hits within your artillery. At Astrid Andersen, tartan was mixed with digital prints, at Bobby Abley they were worked into wide basketball shorts and bowling shirts and at Versace a vibrant overcoat. Dries Van Noten played with the traditional kilt, layering a

half-kilt over pants.

Just 14 percent of Fall 2017’s print arrivals were checks, but they sold better than geometrics, graphics and stripes.

5. DROPPED SHOULDER TEES It’s a basic you need in your collection. Drop the shoulder seams on t-shirts for a slouchier, more streetwise look in regular cotton jersey. Or use heavier weight and create a boxy look that’s very now.

Just 0.09 percent of menswear tees that are currently in stock have dropped shoulders, and mostly dominated by sportswear brands, so this one is open for owning in retail.

Look to Dior, Vetements, White Mountaineering and Sunnei for the best takes on the new staple.

6. BASEBALL CAPS It’s not like baseball caps were ever out as such, but for Fall 2018 they’re a high fashion styling item. And we’re not talking the flat brimmed or five-panel kind that have trended for a couple of years. We mean the 90s, curved front sort. These will be vital merchandizing pieces for fall, especially in combination with a football scarf.

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