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# AUGUST 2013


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SUpERIoR mAgAzINE Lychener Strasse 76, 10437 Berlin www.superior-mag.com connection@superior-mag.com pUbLISHER

SUPERIOR Publishing UG (haftungsbeschr채nkt) Lychener Strasse 76, 10437 Berlin

CHIEf EDItoR v.i.S.d.P. Tom Felber / tom@superior-mag.com pHotogRApHy DIRECtoR Marc Huth / marc@superior-mag.com fASHIoN DIRECtoR Simon Heeger / simon@superior-mag.com ARt DIRECtoR Jesse Benjamin / jesse@superior-mag.com EDItoRIAL DEpARtmENt editor@superior-mag.com ADVERtISINg advertising@superior-mag.com pR mANAgEmENt press@superior-mag.com Superior Magazine accepts no liability for any unsolicited material whatsoever. Opinions contained in the editorial content are those of the contributors and not necessarily those of the publisher of Superior Magazine. Despite careful control Superior Magazine accepts no liability for the content of external links. Any reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited

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#  Editorial Dear readers, You think "Diamonds are the girls best friend"? We think "Shoes are women's best friends"! Hence, at least once a year we have a SHOE SPECIAL in our magazine. On 30 pages you find four editorials and one illustration, all with their own view on shoes. Furthermore our editor Tanita Hecking presents one of her favorite shoe labels as an example for excellent sustainable shoe manufacturing. And we had the honor to get interesting insights in an interview with the artist Willie Cole who uses shoes for his artworks. Have a close look and follow his SHOOFLY through our SHOE SPECIAL. The photographer and editor Semant Jain, whom you already know from his reports from NYFW, visited Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim 2014 and presents in this issue some of the latest swim-wear trends in interviews and photography. See how wonderful the next summer will look like. And you find lots of exciting fashion editorials from all cross the world. Two of them are accompanied by interviews where the photographer Vincenzo Laera and the stylist and art director Jan Luckenbill talk about their work and their life. Enjoy our August issue ... Best, Tom & Marc

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Issue August 2013

Editorial & Imprint -6-

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Selection in august

mercedes-Benz fashion week SwIm 2014

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Calle Hackenberg »Ice Cream Cones« -26-

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Editorial

Vincenzo Laera »Miles Langford« -32-

Gyorgy Karolyi »waiting for the summer« -52-

Peter Nevett »Intrepid Traveller« -60-

Jessica Castro »Tom Girl« -70-

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Rakeem Cunningham »Final Fantasy« -82-


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Lina Zangers »Snaefell«  -92-

Salva Mirisola »Großstadtriese«  -100-

Johannes Graf »Pan Taus Garden«  -112-

#  Talk Interview with Vincenzo Laera  -48-

Interview with Jan Luckenbill  -108-

#  Special "Shoes" -9-

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May 2013

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#SELECtIoN IN AUgUSt

Mercedes-Benz fashion week

swiM 2014 -12-

Background photo: Calle Hackenberg

Interviews and Photography by Semant Jain, Ph.D.


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AQUA DI LARA Interview with Caroline Couture

AQUA DI LARA presented its 2014 collection at MercedesBenz Fashion Week Swim 2014 in Miami. Although Creative Director Reyhan Sofraci could not attend due to her late pregnancy term, her spirit and creativity shone through her unique and edgy pieces. The models dazzled in MIA black cuffed stilettos and radiant jewel tones of amber, ruby, and aquamarine influenced by exotic locations and Reyhan’s personal travels. Colorful elements were paired with multiple Tarzan-goddess braids and subtle yet sultry makeup by Smashbox Cosmetics. In 2012, AQUA DI LARA was separated into a two distinct labels: the soft, feminine White Label and the edgier Black Label. Before the show, Semant Jain interviewed the line’s Public Relations Manager, Caroline Couture. “We want two styles because we have an eclectic customer,” Caroline explained, “There are two styles you can wear anytime.” Both labels were presented, complementing each other yet offering their own distinct looks as they transitioned from White Label to Black Label. The White Label transported its audience to tropical islands with lush, textured prints in a collage of turquoise, amethyst, and mandarin. Elegant designs and bold solids were featured in both bikinis and one pieces, paired with resort-style dresses and billowy silk cover-ups for a sun-soaked day in the sand. Known for her ability to create flattering lines and silhouettes, Reyhan’s Black Label offered risky cutouts, barely-there bottoms, and form-fitting one pieces leaving just enough to the imagination. Blocks of hot pink and neon orange popped against a black canvas. Although Reyhan was not in attendance at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim, Caroline Couture gave Semant Jain an exclusive look into the design process and inspirations behind AQUA DI LARA’s 2014 collections.

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#  When did Reyhan first realize she wanted to be a designer? She was originally studying psychology. She was always trying on bathing suits and changing the looks, and after she became a designer. That’s how she started. #  How has her style and process changed since designing her first pieces? The brand last year, we created a two-label collection last year. So we have White Label and Black Label. White Label is more feminine, more classy. The Black Label is more edgy, sexy, color blocking. Two different styles to make sure every customer has one suit for them. #  So often we see swimwear labels from warmer climates such as Miami and L.A. What sort of edge does Montreal (Quebec) provide when creating and marketing your designs? Montreal is really eclectic. We have a multi-cultural city. We can see someone in the street and like their style. You have so many inspirations there. It’s really fun. With the weather we need to be creative. Because when it’s minus 20 degrees Celsius you still need to design swimsuits. #  Does Montreal provide a unique source of inspiration? Actually, Reyhan has traveled a lot in her life. She’s Turkish and she went to London to live there and then to Toronto in Canada and then she moved to Montreal. She travels a lot so she gets her inspiration from being everywhere. #  Aqua Di Lara is known for designs and cuts that enhance the feminine figure. How is this incorporated this newest collection? We always try to make sure every look, looks good on everyone. We have many patterns that cover what needs to be covered. We have a unique design that goes in the right place to make sure it looks good with every shape.

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# Who is the Aqua Di Lara woman? What type of women is your swimwear made for? Actually we don’t have a special type of woman. Usually twenty to forty [years of age], that’s our customer range. But any woman that wants to look sexy, or edgy, or wants to go somewhere during the day and wear a suit, and at night wear another suit that’s from the same collection. Really any woman can wear Aqua di Lara. #

How do you go about selecting your models?

We look at their walk. It needs to be classy but like they know what they’re doing. We want them to have attitude. We look at their eyes and their confidence, because it’s really important to have confidence as a woman. # Are there any specific characteristics you look for to represent your designs? We want them to have the shape of a usual woman, so that our customers can identify themselves to the collection itself. # You mentioned the two distinct styles: The White Label and the Black Label. What is the inspiration behind each? So the White Label, the looks are more like [a] beach day, resort. And Black Label is more like resort night, parties. So you’ll see with the collection today, one day you want to be edgy, you wear the Black Label. One day you want to be more feminine, you can wear the White Label. # How do the 2014 collections for each label differ from past years? The fabrics. We’ve designed with some [new] fabrics. We try to always look different, new styles and patterns to make sure we don’t always do the same thing.

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#  How does offering two separate styles help Aqua Di Lara stand out from other designers offering only one collection? Usually they do one collection with the same theme. I don’t think any of our colleagues offer two collections. That’s what makes us stand out. We really think it’s important to have two different collections to suit everyone. #  Does Reyhan have one favorite line of the two or are they both equal? Both about equal, but she might have a slight preference for the Black Label. Because that’s edgy and she can go further with the design. #  What was your favorite piece of the 2014 collection at the beginning of the design process and which was your favorite finalized piece? Are they one in the same? It always changes. We try a design and then we do another one. We have an Africa Day kind of design. It’s a one piece. You’ll see it’s looking really nice. It’s [from] the black label. It’s a one piece monokini with tiger, beige and orange. #  What are Aqua Di Lara’s plans for the future? We’re looking for sportswear and lingerie. I think with bathing suits those are other styles that really look good. I n t e r v i e w e r / P h o t o g r a ph e r : S e m a n t J a i n , P h . D . c o p y e dit o r : A l e x a n d r a S ch e c k f a shi o n w r it e r : M a r is a L y o n

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AQUARELLA Interview with Javier Madrigal

At Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim 2014, AQUARELLA teamed up with A. Che, Aguaclara, and Caitlin Kelly for a Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week group show held in the Cabana Grande tent at The Raleigh Hotel. The spotlight shone on the AQUARELLA Swim 2014 collection for its compelling designs and futuristic-inspired silhouettes Designer Javier Madrigal’s favorite piece, a golden yellow one-piece with diagonal slits across the chest and down the navel, opened the show. Following the full color spectrum from green to yellow to orange and, eventually, blue, the tropical hues were paired with gorgeous floral prints creating an exotic vibe. In an interview with SJ Chronicle's Executive Editor Semant Jain, Madrigal shared, “We look for bright colors, colors that look good on people’s skin.” AQUARELLA featured traditional bikini cuts with a mixture of ultra-modern and unexpected cutouts. The ruffled bikini top with a string-tie bottom was a more conventional look, but the collection also mixed it up with a multi-colored two-piece featuring five parallel side strings across the hip and a top that weaved at the cleavage. Madrigal says he designs for a woman who is sexy, feminine, confident, and desirous of an enjoyable trip to the beach. He describes her

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swimwear style as “elegant sporty,” referring more specifically to the high-neckline pieces that, while modest at the bust, are given an edge with low-cut bottoms and bare waists. When asked how it felt to be the only male designer at MBFW, Madrigal was at a loss for words, barely managing to express how he was experiencing “so many mixed feelings.” He hopes to continue his focus on enhancing the female body by contributing more to the world of swimwear in the years to come, but also has plans to incorporate more apparel as well. Model Tika Camaj closed the show in an attention-demanding royal blue, turtle neck onepiece, another one of Madrigal’s favorites. Alas, once the lights dimmed, the viewers were left craving more, savoring the sexy, powerful, and modern taste of AQUARELLA’s 2014 collection. I n t e r v i e w e r / P h o t o g r a ph e r : S e m a n t J a i n , P h . D . c o n t e n t e dit o r : M a r is a L y o n c o p y e dit o r : A l e x a n d r a S ch e c k f a shi o n w r it e r : S h a n n o n W e p r i n

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NAILA

Interview with Naila Chbib

At Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim 2014, every seat in the Cabana Grande tent at the Raleigh Hotel was filled as the attendees awaited the much-anticipated reveal of the NAILA 2014 Swim collection. Designer Naila Chbib’s upbringing in the South of France emulated from each piece in the collection. This direct influence was apparent in the styling of the models who were accessorized with bright, bold jewels and fun wedges provided by Makers Shoes. The collection featured an assortment of sophisticated designs for women and trunk options for men. This was Naila’s third appearance at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim, and the collection stole the spotlight. An array of tropical shades including tangerine, canary, and Mediterranean blue swept across the runway. The simply sheer fabric of the suits was perfectly contrasted with intricate prints featuring florals and vibrant chevron. In pre-show backstage interview, Chbib walked SJ Chronicle’s Executive Editor Semant Jain through a series of featured color stories including a silver-blue palette, an ethnic print selection, a romantic pastel grouping, as well as a few classic black garments. When asked which one was her favorite, she could not choose. “I think all of them are my babies,” she laughed. “I do not have a favorite.”

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The NAILA Swim 2014 Collection introduced a family dynamic not seen elsewhere at Fashion Week Swim. The line presented an option for the mother, father, and son – pieces that Naila suggests are not forgotten on the next family vacation to St. Tropez. The Women’s collection included intricately cut monokinis, bright and slimming one-piece suits, and hip-hugging basic bikinis. Many of the swimsuits were paired with matching silk kaftan cover-ups, light and transparent shawls, and flowing string-tied pants. Naila described the woman she designs for as, “any type of woman. We go from fashion pieces for a 20-year old to one-pieces for an older woman in her sixties.” Naila’s Men’s collection catered to “the everyday man,” she explained, “men that go to the beach with their children.” Vivid turquoise and blue hues to reflected the color of the Mediterranean Sea, a fond memory from Naila’s childhood window. The “son” model sported shorts that matched the men’s trunks, actualizing Naila’s vision for a family swim collection. Chbib told Jain that her inspiration has never changed, “It has always been my customers. I love my customers. I design, above all, for them.” Despite her excitement and pride in her collection, she confessed that she was glad the stress was over, leaving her enough time to breath before we see another exquisite showcasing of talent at next year’s Swim Week on Miami Beach. I n t e r v i e w e r / P h o t o g r a ph e r : S e m a n t J a i n , P h . D . c o n t e n t e dit o r : M a r is a L y o n c o p y e dit o r : A l e x a n d r a S ch e c k f a shi o n w r it e r : S h a n n o n W e p r i n

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wIlDfox

Interview with Leilani Shimoda and Meredith Leyerzaph

After making their debut at last year’s Swim Week, WILDFOX returned on July 21, 2013 at the Soho Beach House. The California swim brand blew away Miami Swim Week attendees once again with their 1970’s inspired swim and resort collection. Psychedelic colors and vintage prints in tangerine, cherry red, and electric blue were some of the designs that graced the runway beneath an arch of rainbow balloons. Swim designer Leilani Shimoda and runway expert Meredith Leyerzaph teamed up to create 41 looks, a drastic increase from last year’s 25 pieces. The extensive collection included bikinis, one pieces, cover-ups, and resort wear, styled with big colorful flowers, oversized hats, beach totes, and Wildfox Sun eyewear. Some stand-out designs were the tropical fruit print on a white canvas, a feminine butterfly print, and an attention grabbing rainbow print that lit up the runway.

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Stila Cosmetics provided fresh, glowing faces for the models while teased 70s hair was created by TIGI. During a backstage interview with our editor Semant Jain, Adriana Papaleo of the TIGI team described their aim as “classic hairdressing to bring a very modern, progressive twist.” Inspired by Charlie’s Angels and mermaids, the line featured two main textures: a short disco style with tight curls, and a longer bohemian texture with loose curls. These looks were achieved with help from products such as TIGI Sessions Series Styling Cream and TIGI Strong Mousse. Then Semant Jain caught up with Leilani Shimoda and Meredith Leyerzaph backstage, where they discussed their hopes for the brand and their inspirations for the 2014 collection.


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#  How did you get started with the company? Leilani: I was brought into the company two years ago and this is my third collection. I have grown up with Kimberly, who is one of the founders. We knew each other in high school [in Santa Barbara] and always admired each other’s work, and met later in life and ended up working together, and it’s been perfect! #  What was the first piece of clothing that you designed? Leilani: My very first collection started with intimates, I also do swimwear and intimate sleepwear, it was for the 2012 Romeo & Juliet line. We did really beautiful velvet sublimated, it was a very graphic, beautiful, 90s-inspired collection for White Label intimates, so it was a little bit more high-end. #  Wildfox made a huge splash at the swim debut last year, resulting in a loyal following of celebrities, stylists, and trendsetters. What would you attribute to the success and what are you looking forward to? Leilani: There was one season prior to me coming on board and the swim we have from then has been night and day. [The new collections are] executed much better in fit, in fabric, in graphics, and the line has grown into coverups and beach bags, sunglasses, towels. We’re really creating a lifestyle brand. We’re a California brand and we love the beach and pool adventures, and it just seemed natural to add swim into our t-shirt line. #  How do you go about selecting your models? What characteristics do you look for to represent your designs? Leilani: We design for all types of girls and we want a diverse palette, so when we look for models we look for that diversity in ethnicities and body types and breast size. We really create

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our pieces to fit all different kinds of bodies, with creating separates and different silhouettes to suit any kind of girl. #  If you could have any one celebrity or model wear designs from your line, who would you like it to be? Leilani: Rihanna! And Beyoncé! I’m dying for them to get into our swim. And Katy Perry. They really represent the bold, fun, Wildfox girl and they all look amazing in swim. tle bit more high-end. #  Where do you draw inspiration from? Leilani: We draw a lot of inspiration throughout the brand from vintage. We love to story tell and create characters for our girl to relate to. There’s always a theme within our seasons. We draw inspiration from the stories that we make and the characters that we [created] for these girls.


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# What is the inspiration for this collection specifically?

# What is the most unique quality about Wildfox in this year’s collection?

Leilani: This collection is inspired by the bold women of the 1970s. It’s a pop theme, so there’s some kitsch, but there’s always a feminine part to our line and that’s definitely reflected in this line. There’s soft pastels and really beautiful homages to mermaids. It’s got quite a diverse transitional feeling to the whole story.

Leilani: The most unique quality is how much we’ve grown since last year!

# What is the story you’re trying to tell in this collection? Leilani: It’s Charlie’s Angels on an island stakeout! # What are the most challenging aspects of designing this collection? Meredith: To keep all body types in mind when you’re designing all of the styles, you take a lot of care into having a suit for every girl on the line. Leilani: I really try to not exclude everyone, we have tops for large breasts, small ones, big hips, small hips, Brazilians, high-waisted. We have some retro pieces and we take a lot of time and care in fit, and I think we’ve done an amazing job with our fit.

Meredith: I think Wildfox girls usually want to make a statement, and I think with our graphics it’s a good way of wearing a statement. Leilani: There’s graphics that are a little more bold than others, so if you don’t want to have a big saying that maybe attracts [unwanted] attention, there’s other pieces that are more subtle like our beautiful hombre this year. We’ve also included many reversible styles, I wanted to incorporate some solids in there as well so you get a little more bang for your buck. # What has been your favorite part of the overall experience? Leilani: I’ve really enjoyed working with Meredith here on the runway line, she’s an expert in high fashion runway and it has been amazing to put this giant puzzle together. Models, shoes, the styling is really incredible, I’m so excited to show everyone. InTervIewer/PHoTograPHer: SemanT JaIn, PH.D. ConTenT eDITor: marISa lyon faSHIon wrITer: SHannon wePrIn

# What would you say would be your favorite piece of the 2014 collection? Leilani: My favorite piece of this collection is a lace up one piece. It’s very sexy even though it’s a one piece. It’s a true homage to the 70’s, and I particularly love the paisley print that we did. Our final piece is more about the print, it’s a flamingo print that is one of my favorites, it’s really beautiful and feminine. photo gallery

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ice creaM cones photography by foodstyling by

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CALLE HACKENBERG RALF FREUND


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Miles Langford photography by VINCENZO LAERA styling by THEO VASILIOU @ BLOSSOM grooming by BUGRAHAN INCI model MILES LANGFORD layout/background photos MARC HUTH

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hat  y3 s h i r t / p a n t s   WEEK D AY j a c k e t   T I GER OF S WE D EN boots  DSQUARED2

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"in BerLin iT Took no MUch TiMe To TUrn MY Life UPside down." Interview with Enzo Laera by Tom Felber

Photographer VINCENZO (Enzo) LAERA was born in Milan, Italy, in 1966. After studying Art and Photography in Italy, he moved to New York City in his early twenties. In NYC he began to collaborate with photographers such as Helmut Newton, Albert Watson, Irving Penn, Brigitte Lacombe, Deborah Tuberville, Bert Stern, Greg Gorman and Annie Leibowitz. From his work and collaboration with such photographers, Enzo

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Laera has developed and learned a discerning eye for composition and light. Often in black and white, his editorial work and portraits apply the principles of pure photography, his work belongs to a tradition of elegance, making it effortlessly modern and natural. Enzo Laera is currently based in Berlin.


August 2013

#  Enzo, you started your career as a hair & make-up artist? How did it come that you gave up your successful profession and started working as a fashion photographer? Yes I did, from a very young age I was always attracted to the aesthetics of people. Growing up in Milan, that career gave me the opportunity to collaborate and meet fantastic artists, models and designers and of course very talented and super well known photographers. Although I was talented and flexible at that career, my direct and primary purpose to be in that industry was not because one day I hoped to open a chain of cosmetics-department-store or salons, but to be in direct contact with the visual makers of the time. I had the opportunity to be part of the creation of an image, I was thrilled, fascinated and completely hooked by the process. Some time passed by, I was getting increasing ly frustrated and discontent, I wanted to be the one that created that process. Something very important had to be done - I had to start all over again. Fear of failure was creeping in, but the love and passion for what I think is beauty allowed me to overcome this fear. With time, the out a lipstick. In addition, basically said that is impulse to create an image grew harder and "Keine Natural”. We looked at him as if he was a stronger. Therefore, the push was there, I had nut case, started laughing, he got more pissed. It to start. took a while to finally understand that “A Natural Lip” color for a Helmut image is a Ferrari RED #  How was it working with photography stars like Helmut Newton or Annie Leibowitz? How did Annie, again, at least in my personal experience, this influence your work? felt that the set and image should be decided in advance and precisely to her vision. She always I think very much different talents, although had in mind exactly how the talent should look with very much the same professionalism. or be dressed. She always would explain beforehand what the result should be, so you kind had I always thought, at least that was my experi- in mind already the Vision. In Studio or Locaence, that when I was working with Mr. Newton, tion, both photographers had a higher standthat he was more flexible, less controlled, more ard of expectation, Already being part of the natural ;). I can't forget an episode, shooting for team and not being randomly chosen, we knew a calendar of the publication Max, that he asked exactly what to do. Very rarely, we could laugh for a natural lip color, of course he threw a tan- loudly on set. trum when the model came back on set with-

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all PHoToS © roBIn kaTer lookBook SHooTIng: SoPoPular

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#  When did you come to Berlin? Why especial- when one of my first images that I shoot for the ly Berlin?  Series “Kiss Study No 1” called Hysteria No 157 was sold in an auction at Bassenge here in BerI arrived in Berlin 6 years ago. In one of lin. the darkest years of my life. I arrived here because I was just escaping. But it took no #  In addition, for the future, for which project much time to turn my life upside down. I decid- "would you die" to realize it?  ed that I had to change. And I think I did ;) Be the official photographer for portraits of Berlin offered immediately a simple and non the athletes in the next world Olympics. expensive way of living, that was exactly what I needed to have to finally find the courage to #  Thank you very much for the interview give up and put a closure with my past - profes- Enzo Laera! sional and private. Soon I showcased my first exhibition and put on paper (editorials) what was always on my mind. #  During the look book shooting, I got the impression that you and your team had a lot of fun. Is such a spirit important for your work? Yes. It's absolutely necessary for me to have such a spirit on set. I love what I do, and I always like to end the day in a serene and happy way, for me, for the client and especially for my collaborators. A serene feeling I think will always reflect on an image, I show to a public what I see with my eyes. If I’m not happy, serene or content on set, that will show for sure, at that point nether a talented retacher can change that setting. #  When you think back, what were your most important projects to date?  As a photographer, I feel the obligation to treat every job like the most important project to date, and I try to my best. Nevertheless, I was very trilled and stunned

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by

GYÖRGY KAROLYI @ FLASHBACK

styling by SÁRA MITÓK SZÖKE hair by MÁRK KÁROLYI make-up by SZILVIA HIDVÉGHY models GRÉTA, ZSANETT @ VM MODELS

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Tom Girl photography by JESSICA CASTRO styling by KRIS COLE make-up by VERONICA SITTERDING hair by SYDNEY KING model GWEN @ FACTOR MODEL MANAGEMENT

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black hat top glasses URbAN oUtfIttERS suspenders zARA mAN white shirt J Crew black tie HUgo boSS


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shirt zARA mAN suspenders top SHop mAN shorts VINtAgE LEVIS

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t r e n c hb ocdoya th a rPierre n e s s   VCiardin t al Madness d e n i m v e s t   R e b ecca Ta y l o r c o s m i c t i e   T o p S h o p Man p l a i n a h r e m p a n t   Zara Man s o c k s   h a pp y s o c k s s i l v e r s h o e s   z ara


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quilted leather jacket ALL SAINtS silver cropped top TwISTeD angel gray harem sweats zARA mAN black strappy stiletto LoNDoN tRASH

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h a t   S t y l ist O w n s h i r t   z ara m an s u s p e n d e r s   T o p S h o p Man s h o r t s   V in t a g e L evis

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quilted leather jacket ALL SAINtS metallic rings ToP SHoP anD STylIST own

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b l a z e r   z ara m an v e s t   z ara m an h a r e m s w e a t s   V ince s i l v e r b r o g u e s   z ara

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black dress shirt top SHop mAN brooch vInTage, STylIST own tuxedo pant RACHEL Roy black stiletto LoNDoN tRASH metallic rings top SHop -78leather belt HALogEN


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black hat  top g l a s s e s   U r b an Ou t f i t t ers s u s p e n d e r s   Zara Man white shirt  J Crew b l a c k t i e   H u g o B o ss b l a c k l e a t h e r j o g g e r   U r b an Ou t f i t t ers l e a t h e r m o t o b o o t   A ll S ain t s S p i t al f ields


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black dress shirt top SHop mAN brooch vInTage, STylIST own tuxedo pant RACHEL Roy black stiletto LoNDoN tRASH leather belt HALogEN


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t r e n c h c o a t   Pierre C ardin d e n i m v e s t   R e b ecca Ta y l o r c o s m i c t i e   T o p S h o p Man

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red blazer AmERICAN AppAREL black button down AmERICAN AppAREL plaided kilt ( button-down) URbAN oUtfIttERS

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Final Fantasy photography by  RAKEEM CUNNINGHAM styling by  WILFORD LENOV make-up & hair by  UGOCHI AZUBUIKE model  MICHAEL HUDSON @ TWO MODEL MANAGEMENT

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plaid button down topmAN plaid skirt JCrew gloves gALEANA boots Dr. marTIenS

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p l a i d b u t t o n d o w n   T o p Man plaid skirt  Jcrew g l o v e s   Galeana b o o t s   D r . M a r ti e n s


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black button down topmAN pants AmERICAN AppAREL gloves gALEANA boots Dr. marTIenS

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b l a c k b u t t o n d o w n   T o p Man p a n t s   A m erican A p p arel g l o v e s   Galeana b o o t s   D r . M a r ti e n s

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black over sized turtle neck nIne menSwear black trousers AmERICAN AppAREL

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o v e r s i z e l e a t h e r c o a t   A m erican A p p arel t - s h i r t   T o p Man s h o r t s   A m erican A p p arel

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over size leather coat AmERICAN AppAREL t-shirt topmAN shorts AmERICAN AppAREL

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r e d b l a z e r   A m erican A p p arel b l a c k b u t t o n d o w n   A m erican A p p arel p l a i d e d k i l t ( b u t t o n - d o w n )   U r b an Ou t f i t t ers

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SNAEFELL photography by LINA ZANGERS styling by JENNIFER KALAITZIS styling assistant JONAS SCHNEIDER model OLÖF @ ELITE MODELS ICELAND photo assistant ROBIN SCHÄFER

jacket CHANEL top AmERICAN AppAREL trousers mAISoN mARtIN mARgIELA shoes zARA

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August 2013

j a c k e t   chanel t o p / l e g g i n s   A m erican A p p arel e a r r i n g s   J o h a n n a Ni e l s o n

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coat-dress PorToBello markeT jewellery rICarDa wolf

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pullover  h&m s k i r t   Z o e S auva g e s a n d a l s   A n ci e n t G r e e k j e w e l l e r y   J o h a n n a Ni e l s o n

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dress H&m bracelets CoS sandals anCIenT greek

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August 2013

t o p   A m erican A p p arel b l o u s e   C hea p M o nda y s k i r t   S t y l ist ´ s o w n

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blouse HelmuT lang (CuSTomIZeD) bustier CoS sandals anCIenT greek

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v e s t   z ara l e g g i n s   A m erican A p p arel n e c k l a c e   J o h a n n a Ni e l s o n

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GROSS STADT RIESE

photography by SALVA MIRISOLA styling/artdirection by JAN LUCKENBILL hair & make-up by TIMO BLOOM model MANUEL ILJITSCH @ SPIN MODELS HAMBURG illustrations DANIEL BAUER

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p a r k a   b en sher m an s h i r t   m ich a l s k y l e a t h e r v e s t   au g us t in & t e b o ul s h o r t s   adidas legwarmers  danny deluxe s h o e s   m ich a l s k y


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blouson mICHalSky shirt Jeremy SCoTT for aDIDaS sunglasses owl oPTICS

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j a c k e t   ti g e r s h i r t   ti g e r t a n k t o p   ti g e r trousers  shoes 

of sweden of sweden of sweden m ich a l s k y m ich a l s k y


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headscarf mAVI leather jacket mICHalSky tanktop Jeremy SCoTT for aDIDaS shorts mICHalSky shoes mICHalSky -104bag mCm


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headscarf mAVI leather jacket mICHalSky tanktop Jeremy SCoTT for aDIDaS shorts mICHalSky shoes mICHalSky bag mCm


August 2013

t a n k t o p   j e r e m y sc o tt f o r a did a s t r o u s e r s   m ich a l s k y s h o e s   m ich a l s k y

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Photo: Oliver Rath

Photo: Oliver Rath

Photo: Oliver Rath

Photo: Salva Mirisola

Jan LUckenBiLL # Jan, you are a designer, stylist and columnist based in Berlin. How did you start with your professions? As a kid I already was interested in fashion and creative activities. Mainly supported by a friend and a designer from Chanel. Additionally I went to a private art school. Besides that I can say that I was inspired very early by my family which shared with me a life with design, good taste and artistic experiences. It was very clear for me to become a fashion designer. I skipped my final secondary-school examinations and went directly to a private fashion school which I passed very successfully 2005. Being Germans youngest fashion designer with an age of 19 years I won several national and international fashion awards after my graduation. I had some very fascinating years in Stuttgart before I decided to go to Berlin and to be newly inspired and to breathe in a new creative atmosphere. That was till now my best decision in life. In Berlin I let all the new experiences and connections sink in and kept my mind open and flexible. I guess that is my professional success factor. Hence I became a stylist after working quite often with Oliver Rath a great photographer. I think new influences and my curiosity pushes me to live my passion for design even if it is not the academic way.

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#  Is one of them your favorite or something you would like to focus on in the future?

#  The stylist Jan Luckenbill. What’s your style? And which styles do you like best?

No, there is no such favorite thing I would like to do in future. That would limit me and cut the creative process. My focus is the entity of creativity and design which contains plenty of different aspects. Recently I work with Shortcut People an agency located in Munich. They support me with all my different projects and share the same understanding. I am happy to work with them, because they use their knowhow and clear perspective to support me and even lead me into new directions. Whit their patience, empathy and enthusiasm they are the perfect match for me.

I am not really sure if there is a specific style I create. I guess it is similar to my thoughts regarding my favorite jobs. Style is an answer to my emotions and feelings, which of course are changing. If I feel for drama, then I need clothes for the great entrance even during the week. Flashy or generally eye-catching. That’s it, if I need to bring my style to the point. Even without a specific style I would be that, being a tall, big and grey haired guy. I admire people who can say they have found their style. I can’t say that, because I am still in my creative process which is determined by creative stations or milestones. #  The stylist Jan Luckenbill. What’s your style? And which styles do you like best? I am not really sure if there is a specific style I create. I guess it is similar to my thoughts regarding my favorite jobs. Style is an answer to my emotions and feelings, which of course are changing. If I feel for drama, then I need clothes for the great entrance even during the week. Flashy or generally eye-catching. That’s it, if I need to bring my style to the point. Even without a specific style I would be that, being a tall, big and grey haired guy. I admire people who can say they have found their style. I can’t say that, because I am still in my creative process which is determined by creative stations or milestones. #  Do you think Berlin has its own style? If yes, who would you describe this Berlin-Style and what makes this different from other cities’ styles?

Photo: Salva Mirisola

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Berlin is an Eldorado of styles; you can see here everything and everything can be combined and mixed. I believe that the Berlin style changes its face constantly and doesn’t like to be determined or evaluated by whoever. The style in Berlin is bolder and cannot be easily labelled like in Milan or Paris. In Berlin you can feel internation-


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al interactions. If you want to bath in elegance you go to Grunewald or Friedrichstrasse, if you want urbanity and wildness than put yourself in front of a deli in Kreuzberg. Freedom of style, that’s what we have in Berlin. # We see in this issue your editorial “Großstadtriese”. What’s the story of the editorial? Why did you include illustrations?

would be boring for me and would limit me in my need of self-expression. I use my blog to write about everything which catches my attention without given presetting. Everyone is invited to share this with me if interested. Still I am pretty proud that a mass of people feel inspired by my blog and follow my entries week by week.

The story is about a young bearded giant who visits Berlin. He is very peace loving and wants to check out new trends. He loves fashion and has a weakness for designer outfits. The giant is so in love with Berlin that he wants to take it home. Of course the people who see the giant freak out and became panic. The giants’ emotions are chaotic, he wants to play, he has to protect himself and finally he gets arrested. In between he has to lighten himself and by doing so he overflood the Oberbaumbrücke. I chose to work with the illustrator Daniel Bauer, because I love his way of combining real pictures with illustrations. The pictures are made by Salva Mirisola who added his perspective to the story. The giant was played by Manuel Iljitsch, a model which appearance is currently en vogue and is perfectly matching the story. All these people took their part in the realization of this project. Using illustrations also had the advantage to create different sceneries without exceeding the budget.

Photo: Salva Mirisola

Talking of budget. The limited edition of the editorial contains 6 art pieces and can be purchased # And Jan Luckenbill the designer. Do you have your own fashion label? over my agency: sor@shortcutpeople.de # You call yourself „columnist“, not “Blogger” Currently I am working on my new fashion although you have your own blog. What makes collection. Since I don’t like to talk about unfinthe difference between both terms from your ished project there is not much to tell you. But point of view? I promise you that you will be the first publishing it. I don’t see myself as a classical blogger, who presents his new Vans or body lotion. That

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#  When you think of all the Berlin-based fash- #  In our September issue we will have a focus ion labels. Which are the ones that have the on London. Which young fashion label, which most international flair from your point of view? stylist and which photographer from London should we definitely have in that issue? I am trying to be kind. Even with the risk to be shot down by pins or be strangled by a tape. The Congratulation for choosing London. berlin fashion scene is still in his infancy com- Besides Berlin, London would be my second pared to the international Rika. I am not talk- adopted home. ing about the quality of the designer, it is more about the specific location and the concept. The Here my top list: last fashion week was dreary and repellent. The rats are deserting the sinking ship and big Ger- Label: SWASH (Sarah Swash & Toshio Yamanaman labels are denying the black monster at the ka) - very British, popular, well done, exclusive! Brandenburger Tor. The offsite shows could deal far better with the Berlin charm. The rest is too Stylist: Katie Baron – Master of staging expensive and not beneficial. From my point of view the whole concept is restricting the devel- Photographer: Jürgen Teller- a man of action opment of the designer. Very often the German with clear and to the point messages (my public don’t understand fashion and perceive favorite!!!) Interviewer by tom felber fancy design as circus. It is not astonishing that Gaultier lives in Paris.

Photo: Oliver Rath

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ONLINE

PAN TAUS GARDEN photography by JOHANNES GRAF styling by STEPHAN KALLAUS @ FAME-AGENCY grooming by SABINE HEBERLE @ PHÖNIX AGENTUR model JULIUS PFISTER @ MEGA MODEL AGENCY retouch RAMONA REUTER

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s u i t   E r m ene g ild o Ze g na p o c k e t s q u a r e   T o m F o rd p o l o s h i r t   N a p a pij r i

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glasses fREUDENHAUS pullover HENRy CottoN’S trousers DakS

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August 2013

j a c k e t   E r m ene g ild o Ze g na p o c k e t s q u a r e   T o m F o rd p o l o s h i r t   N a p a pij r i

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latex top

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Danny Deluxe


August 2013

o u t f i t   E r m ene g ild o Ze g na b e l t & g l o v e s   p rada

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jacket IRENE LUft trousers bRIoNI shirt DIoR HommE shoes ERmENEgILDo zEgNA

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August 2013

s u i t & j a c k e t   la g er f eld s i l v e r n e c k l a c e   S i l b e r b o c k M ü n ch e n

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hat StEtSoN suit EtRo latex top Danny Deluxe CESARE pACIottI @ UNIQUE SHoES


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latex top

Danny Deluxe trousers DakS sneakers LANVIN

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magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com

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Shoe Special


August 2013

#  Editorial Tania Kezha »Tropical Night«  -126-

Hiroyuki Kikuchi »In-Out«  -136-

Coria Sepulveda »Cinderella Dreams«  -148-

Alex Wessely »Sthlm 24/7«  -154-

Nico Ernst »Backstreet Girls«  -170-

#  Talk Interview with Willie Cole  -140-

#  Story »Heel the world« by Tanita Hecking  -152-

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photography/concept by TANIA KEZHA styling by DARYA GOLOVA model ALISA & VADIM shoes by BASCONI

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IN-OUT illustrations by HIROYUKI KIKUCHI www.harsdirection.net

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I think that every woman loves to express herself, her peculiar personality and taste of life, by researching quality and finally selecting the most appropriate elements in the field of art, fashion, design, books and food for make her perfect ambient. Even the shoes are one part of the self expression through the refinement of fashion and design. For the title of these illustrations I choosed ''In - out'' because I imagined a beautiful and fashionable woman moving freely IN and OUT her ambient ... or for better saying she can do the perfect ambient with her presence there! - HIROYUKI KIKUCHI

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i can Make eVerYThinG froM anYThinG and anYThinG froM eVerYThinG Interview with Willie Cole by Tom Felber The artist Willie Cole was born in 1955 in Somerville, New Jersey and continues to live and work in that state. With his bronze sculptures in limited editions he transforms our daily life into pieces of art.

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August 2013

#  Willie Cole, tell us about your person. How did you become an artist? I've been an artist my entire life. My mother discovered me drawing cartoons from the Sunday newspaper at the age of 3. As a result I dubbed "The little artist" by my family and attended art classes and art camp right up through college. #  For your sculptures you use things of everyday life like irons, bottles and high heels. Why do you use these unusual materials? I like to believe that I don't choose the objects but instead the objects choose me.

#  And why especially high heels? Which story do you like to tell the viewers of your art?

The objects I like should have had intimate human contact. I believe that the residue of the human spirit remains on them and that I can access this spirit residue to lead me in one direction or another conceptually.

I initially started working with sneakers. But when I ran out and went to the second hand store to buy more and discovered the high heel. It had more color, more texture, and more shapes than the sneaker and therefore more possibilities. Plus, besides being beautiful, they are loaded with lots of social history. I put them in the same category as the guitar, the gun, or the sports car: Iconic American object.

The multiplication of a single object has become a driving aesthetic of my sculptural work. I think of myself as creating the same way nature does: through cell replication and multiplication. I tell myself that I can make everything from anything and anything from everything.

Aesthetically, I was initially inspired by African Art but I think that might have been a carry over from the iron sculptures. In the past two years however that African aesthetic has been fused with cartoons, fashion and pornography. Basically I let the shoe suggest what it becomes. Among the stories this work speaks are: the story of desire, the story of womanhood and femininity, the story of motherhood, the story of tribalism or "brand", the story of beauty.

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August 2013

#  Where do you get your inspirations from? After so many years I live in a state of constant inspiration, which means everything is inspiring. The objects I'm attracted to are usually "loaded" with social commentary and history. I venture to discover or reveal this history to myself by making a mental chart of every physical, mental, social, and spiritual things I can associate with the objects based on use, color or history. For example the IRON'S shape suggest a boat. The way it works suggests fire and water. Its his- #  Do they still see the basic materials, e.g. the tory suggests domestic labor. And each of these high heels or do they see the whole piece of suggestions leads to other things. It's almost like work? a mathematical equation. Imagine a river. Then imagine the streams that connect to it. I call what I do perceptual engineering because when you confront my work you are #  How do people react when they see your forced to see what I want you to see. You may not sculptures? see it immediately but once you do you always will. Fortunately most people see it immediateMy NY dealer just returned from the Basel ly. It becomes a mind game... you get to see two Switzerland Art Fair. She says that my pieces things at once... and you have no choice about were probably the most photographed art in the which one you see first. fair. All the spectators and visitors to the fair were drawn to my pieces and inspired to photo- #  What is your project SHOOFLY? graph themselves next to it. I made a shoe sculpture last year that looked like it wanted to fly of my work table. This observation led me to imagine an animated short film wherein this sculpture (SHOOFLY) is the little fly that buzzes in a woman's ear and encourages her to buy new shoes. My animation team and I are busy working on it now in anticipation of a debut screening by the end of this year. #  And what's coming next? In my fall exhibition schedule includes shoes in NY, irons in Alabama and water bottles in Oregon and New Jersey. Now all I need is a European opportunity. #  Thank you very much for the interview Willie Cole!

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CINDERELLA DREAMS photography by CORIA SEPULVEDA styling by VICTORIA GARCIA

shoe

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zARA bRASIL


August 2013

s h o e   j e f f r e y c a m pb e l l

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Sarkany


August 2013

s h o e   f o rever 2 1

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HEEL THE WORLD „Earth. People. Animals. Vegan“, is Elizabeth Olsen’s Slogan for shoes that help animals and the environment. The brand Olsenhaus is known for sustainable fashion. Starting the business in 2008 Elizabeth Olsen wanted to design shoes that make the use of animal’s skin and fur unnecessary. Using faux leather and other synthetic materials she imitates real leather and helps earth since the production is environmental friendlier than the leather production. The focus on sustainability becomes more and more vital today. As in our civilized world pollution hurts not only the environment but also everyone living in it, it is important to have people fighting for a change. In terms of fashion Stella McCartney is making a great statement in the high-end market and brands like Olsenhaus hold great values and great styles at a more affordable price for a wider range of customers. And Elizabeth Olsen’s shoes certainly don’t look like vegan ones.

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Picking up trends like the use of metallic materials make her designs very contemporary. For the fall/winter collection 2013/2014, Elizabeth Olsen mainly uses ultra suede and cotton. Mentioning metallic materials she also uses prints like money or space print to vary the product line. There is a lot of variety in her styles as well. From flat boots to heels to ankle boots almost every woman should be able to find a pair of shoes suitable for her. A great shoe for all heel lovers is the ‘Jedi’. Either in black and pink or black and grey it is easy to combine, finishing up the outfit with just a little bit of sex appeal but still classy enough to also be worn in the office. But not only focusing on the designs made and the materials used, the Olsenhaus lines are being produced in Mexico, Portugal, India, Brazil and the US. Expanding the product line of men’s, kid’s, clothing and home goods are Elizabeth Olsen’s future plans. Trying to make the world a better place and offering women to take part in it. Hopefully men soon, too. Text by Tanita Hecking Photos © Olsenhaus

The latest Shoe- and Accessory- Trends from GREENSHOWROOM & ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN, two of the leading Trafe Fairs for sustainable & ethical fashion

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Sthlm 24/7 photography by ALEX WESSELY styling by JANSON NIKLASON styling assistant ANDREA ROSENBERG hair & make-up by CHLOE BRYANT models ROSANNA P @ NISH MANAGEMENT, ANETTE I @ ZAP MODELS, SINDY N AND FRANK N special thanks to STUDIO VINTAGE STOCKHOLM AND MIN SYSTER & JAG

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August 2013

Rosanna: h e a d p i e c e   S t y l ist o w n p e a r l e a r i n g s   chanel g o l d l a c e d r e s s   S t y l ist o w n

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SInDy: soft cup bra CALIDA shape shorts CALIDA black nylon garter belt stay-ups wolforD black pumps zARA

AmERICAN AppAREL

anette: high waist shape pants CALIDA soft cup bra CALIDA stockings wolforD white pumps by mALENE bIRgER

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roSanna: PaTrIk guggenBerger soft cup bra CALIDA shape shorts CALIDA stay-ups wolforD black pumps pRADA swarovski crystal necklace VINtAgE

velvet kimono Dress


August 2013

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SInDy: feather top STylIST own pants with swarovski details DoLCE & gAbbANA suede pumps VINtAgE LoUIS VUIttoN stockings wolforD

roSanna: crossback micro-mesh bra AmERICAN AppAREL flower print silk skirt VINtAgE pRADA pink boots VINtAgE LoUIS VUIttoN

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roSanna: wool hat AmERICAN AppAREL black and white long silk dress by mALENE bIRgER suede platform boots STylIST own SInDy: wool hat AmERICAN AppAREL black and white long silk dress suede pumps zARA

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by mALENE bIRgER


August 2013

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roSanna: skirt ISAbEL ELfASt corset top ISAbEL ELfASt socks falke black pumps pRADA

SInDy: skirt ISAbEL ELfASt gold knit top VINtAgE VERSACE socks falke black pumps pRADA

aneTTe: skirt ISAbEL ELfASt silver knit top fIlIPPa k socks falke black pumps pRADA

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roSanna: Black sequin long dress VINtAgE VERSACE black pumps mInImarkeT gold earrings VINtAgE CELINE black pumps pRADA

aneTTe: lace skirt by mALENE bIRgER suede pumps zARA

SInDy: black strap pumps

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VNtAgE gUCCI


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August 2013

Rosanna: w h i t e d r e s s w i t h g o l d e m b r o i d e r y   B y Malene Bir g er s w a r o v s k i d e t a i l e d s a n d a l s   V in t a g e Gian m arc o L o ren z i 2 . 5 5 f l a p - b a g c a v i a r l e a t h e r   C hanel b l a c k a n d g o l d h - b r a c e l e t   H er m é s Sindy: w h i t e l e a t h e r b l a z e r   V in t a g e C é line s i l k p a n t s   R o d e bj e r b l a c k p u m p s   Prada brown leather gloves  Hope Frank: black suit  Hope w h i t e s h i r t   A cne S t udi o s l e a t h e r s h o e s   J o h n st o n & M u r ph y w a t c h   R o l e x Mi l g a u ss GV

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Anette: h i g h w a i s t s h a p e p a n t s   C alida s o f t c u p b r a   C alida stockings  Wolford w h i t e p u m p s   B y Malene Bir g er Rosanna: velvet kimono Dress  Patrik Guggenberger s o f t c u p b r a   C alida s h a p e s h o r t s   C alida stay-ups  Wolford -169b l a c k p u m p s   Prada s w a r o v s k i c r y s t a l n e c k l a c e   V in t a g e

Sindy: s o f t c u p b r a   C alida s h a p e s h o r t s   C alida b l a c k n y l o n g a r t e r b e l t   A m erican A p p arel stay-ups  Wolford b l a c k p u m p s   Zara


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Backstreet Girls photography by NICO ERNST styling by CRYSTAL BIRCH @ NUDE AGENCY styling assistant MICHAEL MOSER hair by DIRK NEUHÖFER @ NINA KLEIN make-up KATI MERTSCH models IDA @ VIVA MODELS LISA MARIE @ IZAIO MODELS, JUTTA @ M4 assistant KIM LANG retouch NADINE WALDTON LÈZIN

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August 2013

b o d y s u i t   Ki l i a n K e r n e r w h i t e l e a t h e r + l i n e n s h o r t s   V l a di m i r K a r a l e e v s i l v e r b o d y c h a i n   Perlens ä ue b y Tan y a H ennin g s h o e s   V a g a b o nd

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top PrevIew long sleeve top nIke SPorTSwear leggings fronT row SoCIeTy shoes NELLy

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bracelet

pERLENS채UE by tANyA HENNINg top REALIty StUDIo long white mesh dress weekDay silver pc wave jacket weekDay blue platform shoes NELLy


August 2013

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latex jacket kIllIan kerner white linen trousers vlaDImIr karaleev necklace REALIty StUDIo

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August 2013

d r e s s   Mi n i M a r k e t backpack  5 Preview s o c k s   C hea p M o nda y s h o e s   nell y

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linen&leather short shoes VEgAboND

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August 2013

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top oBJeCT ColleCTIon earrings BJorg

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August 2013

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glasses BJorg top vlaDImIr karaleev killot shorts REALIty StUDIo pink foil bag CHEAp moNDAy shoes ARmy VAgAboND


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latex jacket kIllIan kerner white linen trousers vlaDImIr karaleev necklace REALIty StUDIo

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August 2013

s i l k p r i n t e d d r e s s   R eali t y S t udi o s u n g l a s s e s   M y k it a w h i t e e a r p h o n e s   M o la m i s h o e s   V a g a b o nd

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August 2013

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August 2013

B ER LI N E 4 – 6 I 10 9 6 3 S S A TR S ER Com LU C K EN WA LD H I @ f9 5 S To R E. I 8 5 3 3 8 0 2 +4 9 ( 0 ) 3 0 4 R E. C o m W W W.f 9 5 S To RS m. o P EN IN G H o U AY 11 A .m . – 8 P. ID fR – AY D moN . m A .m . – 6 P. S AT U R D AY 11 -185-


magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com

coming out on september 13th 2013

# SEptEmbER 2013


SUPERIOR ONLINE August 2013