Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com
BFW A/W 2014
# BERLIN FASHION # WEEK SEPTEMBER A/W 14 2013
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January 2014
DigiTal
I N T E R N A T I O N A L FA S H I O N T R A D E S H O W F a l l— W i n t e r 2 0 14 / 15
Ja n ua ry S T A T I O N – B E R L I N w w w . p r e m i u m e x h i b i t i o n s . c o m -4-
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SUPERIOR MAGAZINE Brunnenstrasse 191, 10119 Berlin www.superior-mag.com connection@superior-mag.com PUBLISHER
SUPERIOR Publishing UG (haftungsbeschränkt) Lychener Strasse 76, 10437 Berlin
CHIEF EDITOR V.i.S.d.P. Tom Felber / tom@superior-mag.com PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR Marc Huth /marc@superior-mag.com FASHION CONSULTANT Simon Heeger / simon@superior-mag.com FASHION CONSULTANT Moritz Brandenstein/editor@superior-mag.com GRAPHIC EDITOR Elena Bachaly /bachaly@superior-mag.com GRAPHIC EDITOR Daria Sommer/daria@superior-mag.com ART DIRECTOR Marc Huth / marc@superior-mag.com EDITORIAL DEPARTMENT editor@superior-mag.com ADVERTISING advertising@superior-mag.com PR MANAGEMENT press@superior-mag.com FASHION EDITOR Marcel Debong/marcel@superior-mag.com FASHION EDITOR Elena Schröder/editor@superior-mag.com FASHION EDITOR Tanita Hecking/marcel@superior-mag.com FASHION EDITOR Kevin Meunier/kevin@superior-mag.com FASHION EDITOR Monika Penning/editor@superior-mag.com FASHION EDITOR Victoria Richter/editor@superior-mag.com PHOTOGRAPHER Robin Kater/robin@superior-mag.com PHOTOGRAPHER Yannic Pöpperling/editor@superior-mag.com PHOTOGRAPHER Hannes Albert/editor@superior-mag.com Superior Magazine accepts no liability for any unsolicited material whatsoever. Opinions contained in the editorial content are those of the contributors and not necessarily those of the publisher of Superior Magazine. Despite careful control Superior Magazine accepts no liability for the content of external links. Any reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited
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January 2014
JOIN NOW !
IF YOU DO IT RIGHT, IT WILL LAST FOREVER ewerk Berlin 14 – 16 Jan 14
green showroom
14 – 16 Jan 14
Kronprinzenpalais, Berlin
new location!
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BERLIN FASHION WEEK A/W 14 It is aready our 6th fashion week session here in Berlin and it's always a pleasure to be there. Between all the shows, installations and exhibitions we have been to, we selected our favorites for you in this Berlin Fashion Week A/W14 special. There are always people who help us to create our Fashion Week specials, some on a regual basis and some new faces to SUPERIOR, but we feel the need to thank all of them for their great work. So here there are, thanks to Marcel Debing, Elena Schrรถder, Tanita Hecking, Kevin Meunier, Monika Penning, Victoria Richter, Robin Kater, Yannic Pรถpperling and Hannes Albert.
Shows & Photos
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BFW A/W 2014
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin A/W14 -14- Augustin Teboul - IVANMAN - Julian Zigerli - Mads Dinesen - Patrick Mohr - DYN
Dear PREMIUM Fashion Diary, ...
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GREENshowroom -54-
Dutch ECO Design
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AUGUSTIN TEBOUL www.augustin-teboul.com
FUTURISTIC DESIGNS AND TRADITIONAL CRAFTMANSHIP To a surprise of all, the designer duo AUGUSTIN TEBOUL broke their usual colour line during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. The German-French designer duo AUGUSTIN TEBOUL was known in recent seasons for their detailed, but especially black creations. Now the two designers expand their usual colour palette to some nude-coloured designs. However, this very gentle-acting designs carry the typical AUGUSTIN TEBOUL identity of very feminine and sculptural designs. Their usual theatrical presentations were the two designers fortunately true. So they presented their collection ‘Equinoxe’ in the gallery Judin in Berlin-Mitte. The bright, high gallery room was the scene for the new fall/winter collection and underlined by its minimalist and timeless el-
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egance the futuristic inspiration of the presentation. A sailcloth in the wind was the setting of the retro-futuristic scene on which the models presented the elaborate creations. In this season, the focus of the designers was on structures, shapes and textures. In addition to the characteristic crochet and knitting details. The two designers also extend the selection of their materials: In addition to silk, tulle, velvet and leather, they used the first time neoprene. A touch of futurism, in contrast to traditional craft techniques. Text: Marcel Debong Photographer: Robin Kater
SHOW VIDEO
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IVANMAN www.ivanman.de
CLASSICISM MEETS PURISM Last season, the new addition, now expected long: for the second time Ivan Mandzukic presented, under his label IVANMAN, in the official line-up of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. In his studio presentation, the Berlin designer with Serbian origin presented clear and minimalist designs. The theme of the collection is the Holy Mountain - inspired by Alejandro Jodorowsky’s movie from 1973. Mandzukic dealt with the issue of sex in contemporary context. The designer presents female dominated and also military elements. Classical shapes of menswear are accentuated with feminine details in the incision through and the subtle use of transparency. Mandzukic shows his vision of abstract and contemporary uniforms by a fixed, sometimes stiff silhouette. The designer combined accurate pleated trousers, some waist high, with coarse-mesh knit sweaters, shirts or jackets different. Here is an exceptionally fixed interpreta-
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tion of layering plays a significant role. Under jumpers and jackets shirt collars seem out about it often solid wool jackets and coats. Ivan Mandzukic’s special attention is given on shoulders and neck. Besides turtleneck pullovers. the designer presented color-contrasting collar napkins that take up some sports details from the previous summer collection. The heavily overcut shoulders, coupled with uniform shirts, make for a masculine impression. Text: Marcel Debong Photographer: Robin Kater
SHOW VIDEO
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JULIAN ZIGERLI www.julianzigerli.com
A CONTEMPORARY STRIPTEASE Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, the cold, the wind, the wait, the doors from the mythic Delphi Stummfilmkino finally open. Hundreds of people are pushing one another like a crazy crowd for the first day of the sales to see the new collection of JULIAN ZIGERLI. We arrive in a sumptuous cinema from the fifties where old tables and an intimate stage are waiting for the show to begin. No lights, electronic ambient music on, five men and a woman wearing the new collection pieces arrive slowly from the left side of the stage. They take place in front of the audience and wait, blank stare. The show begins when the woman starts speaking and the men start undressing themselves in slow motion. The atmosphere is tense and sexual under a red light. We are not sure what to expect from their disturbing performance. The woman, wearing a coat falling off from her shoulders, is talking about love and finding the one, her
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perfect soulmate. Zigerli reveals an interesting parallel in his show, where the woman, fully dressed, strips emotionally and the men strip physically: she opens to us intimately in a solemn speech while they try on different outfits successively. The new Autumn/Winter 2014 collection itself is colorful, full of prints and geometrical cuts. For his new project, Zigerli collaborated with three French graphic designers called Golgotha, to offer some three-dimensional honeycomb prints to some clothes of the varied collection. A link between the honey's reference and the congealing models is obvious: Zigerli wants to show that when you wear his pieces, you keep this infinite virgin beauty the men from nowadays are looking for. The outfits reveal a sporty-chic style and a young modern metrosexuality, indeed. Text: Kevin Meunier Photographer: Hannes Albert
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MADS DINESEN www.madsdinesen.com
FIGHT THE FIGHT!
pieces are black as black is always dominant in Danish design. In some occasion red appears as a colorful highlight.
If you expect the typical Scandinavian minimalism you will be disappointed. The young talent MADS DINESEN is one of the most outrageous newcomer in the Berlin fashion scene. His fashion show at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin enchants the audience with the artistic talent of the young Dane.
The theme of rebellion is always present. Every single piece embodies the fight for a better world. Accessories as Arabic hats and flags support the focus of the collection. Scarfs and pieces of jewellery out of 1001 night also hide the faces of the some models. Tears in the eyes and mud on the boots show the sadness and cruelty of fighting.
Mads Dinesen is telling stories throughout fashion and the pieces get alive. The current autumn/winter collection 2014/15 is dealing with political issues. It is about the clash of individuals and government in Arabia and Russia.
Fashion is not only clothes. The designer gets the public to pay attention to all the conflicts in the world. It is not easy to link fashion and art in a way to communicate political messages but Mads Dinesen made it in a wonderful way.
The focus of this collection lies in the fusion of historical, ethnical and cultural elements. The cuts and fabrics interact between light and heavy, construction and draping and order and coincidence. A checked dress and a long black dress get together with pieces made out of wool and knit. Dinesen also loves the layering look. And of course many
Text: Monika Penning
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Photographer: Tom Felber
BFW A/W 2014
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PATRICK MOHR www.patrick-mohr.com
BE MOHR. ‘Freedom describes the ability of people to act willingly’ is the slogan of Patrick Mohr’s autumn/winter-collection 2014/2015. The German designer is known for his profound thoughts, criticizing today’s society and pointing out social injustices. In the center of it all: freedom of man. Mohr picked out different shades of blue as central colors. Coats, shorts and shirts worn only by dark-skinned models in cage-like installations feature the elements the designer is known for. On every cage there was only one word, resulting in the slogan of his collection. The atmosphere created in the former metal works made it hard to just focus on the clothing. By looking at the installation, thoughts about freedom the way Mohr defined it were raised. Showing only dark-skinned models didn’t seem accidental. As always his unisex fashion consisted of loose cuts and graphic elements like the Mohr triangle that was sewn onto the back of coats. From head to toe in the color of hope: caps with earflaps, dreads, triangular beards,
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contact lenses, mascara and all of his new designs. Between run-down walls and red brick the models wore ribbed tights under shorts with open seams below the crotch. Plain shirts were shown under different shapes of jackets and coats ranging from blousons to calf-length coats. There again was a playful combination of materials like leather, wool, organza and sequins just to mention a few. From sky-blue, pigeon blue to midnight blue and violet-blue a wide range of colors were used that perfectly fit the designs and still felt restful. Mohr included a lot of straight shapes that created a static and hard atmosphere to underline his basic idea. On the other side of the gallery that the former metal works is used as today there was a video shown. Behind copper art that was hanging from the ceiling it seemed to be caged like the models. The designer again visualized his idea of freedom as defined by showing a person neither female nor male pointing out that we are all the same and that skin color, age, appearance etc. is not the only aspect that defines who you are. He wants to bring to attention that everyone should have the privilege to freedom. On that note: be Mohr. Text: Tanita Hecking Photographer: Tom Felber
BFW A/W 2014
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DYN
www.dynfashion.com
BACK TO THE STUDIO 54 DYN menswear, the new-comer German label by the talented Frida Homann, caught the attention during this last Berlin Fashion week. Original and very well thought concerning its inspiration, the new collection seems to seduce everyone attending the event. With dark lights, white fog on the floor and a huge piece of art in the middle of the room looking like a crystal made by mirrors, the show starts when we first penetrate in this reproduction of the famous nightclub Studio 54 from New York in the seventies/eighties. Twelve hot male models are looking chic and proper. They shyly dance on white squares on a background disco soundtrack and smiling to the girls in the audience. Their hair is wax-fixed and their shoes are glossy-clean. This season, for her new menswear autumn/winter 2014 collection, Homann was inspired by the rich and famous celebrities' style, hanging out together during this period. Dressed with Black, dark Blue and Brown, the models are -24-
all wearing a high collar shirt or pullover under their chic and modern tailored jackets, and a pair of carrot-shaped pants. The whole outfit is most of the time accessorized by bow-ties and thin leather belts. Looking good and feeling comfy, the clothes are majorly made of wool, velvet and leather, giving them a rich and elegant appearance. Two pieces obviously stand out form the collection: a shiny, light, long black coat and a short hair fur bomber jacket. Those two clothes look very trendy and can seduce most of the men from the new fashion scene of nowadays. Kevin Meunier
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concept by MARC HUTH photography by YANNIC PÖPPERLING styling by MORITZ BRANDENSTEIN
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www.tomvanderborght.com
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www.iphoria.com
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www.nat-2.eu
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www.p1footwear.com
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www.wxyshoes.tumblr.com
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www.hemsleylondon.com
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www.reikenen.com
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www.jungfeld.com
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www.designerdavidandersen.com
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www.taminavonribaupierre.com
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www.muuse.com
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www.malaikaraiss.com
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www.itgirlberlin.com
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www.silkedebler.com -52v
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BFW A/W 2014
GREEN SHOWROOM
SALONSHOW
Photographer: Robin Kater
SHOW VIDEO
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DUTCH ECO DESIGN
SHOW
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BFW A/W 2014
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Photographer: Robin Kater
Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com
coming out on february 7th 2014
# FEBRUARY 2014