SUPERIOR ONLINE September 2012

magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com

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SuPErior magaziNE Lychener Strasse 76, 10437 Berlin www.superior-mag.com connection@superior-mag.com PuBliShEr

SUPERIOR Publishing UG (haftungsbeschr채nkt) Lychener Strasse 76, 10437 Berlin

chiEF Editor V.i.S.d.p. Tom Felber / tom@superior-mag.com PhotograPhy dirEctor Marc Huth / marc@superior-mag.com FaShioN dirEctor Simon Heeger / simon@superior-mag.com art dirEctor Jesse Benjamin / jesse@superior-mag.com Editorial dEPartmENt editor@superior-mag.com advErtiSiNg advertising@superior-mag.com Pr maNagEmENt press@superior-mag.com Superior Magazine accepts no liability for any unsolicited material whatsoever. Opinions contained in the editorial content are those of the contributors and not necessarily those of the publisher of Superior Magazine. Despite careful control Superior Magazine accepts no liability for the content of external links.

Any reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited

coNtriButorS Alex Kahan, Agnieszka Chabros, Alessandro Marchese, Aysha Banos, Edgar Berg, Franziska Pr체tz, Heiko Latschitzki, Hollie Carlin, Kirsten Becken, Lindsay Hamlyn, Patrick Styrnol, Pedro Devalo, Sara Mautone, Simone Lezzi (photographers) Michele Moricci (illustrator)

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September 2012

#  Editorial Dear readers, For our September issue we choose the theme "AUTUMN". And like the nature that presents its most beautiful colours in autumn #EDITORIAL presents a fireworks of fantastic fashion editorials from all over the world: Agnieszka Chabros from Australia, Hollie Carlin from U.K., Pedro Devalo from Spain, Lindsay Hamlyn from South Africa, Aysha Banos from USA, Alex Kahan, Edgar Berg, Franziska PrĂźtz, Heiko Latschitzki, Kirsten Becken and Patrick Styrnol from Germany and last but not least Alessandro Marchese, Sara Mautone, Simone Lezzi and Michele Moricci from Italy.

#SELECTION presents four labels our Fashion Director Simon especially likes. These are Peter Non, Drome, Cornelian Taurus and Amy Glenn.

Under #TALK you find the interview with the Berlin based fashion designer Eva Chatburn.

Enjoy more than 200 pages SUPERIOR ONLINE September 2012 ...

Tom & Marc

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Editorial

Hollie Carlin »autumn in the woods« -26-

Alex Kahan »grunge kandie« -38-

Aysha Banos »Lost Angeles« -48-

Franziska Prütz »Black or White« -62-

Agnieszka Chabros »Firestarter« -72-10-

September 2012

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Heiko Latschitzki »Down by the river« -84-

Michele Moricci »When autumns falls« -104-

Alessandro Marchese »possible dreams« -110-

Patrick Styrnol »Mademoiselle Galuchat« -118-

Lindsay Hamlyn »fleece« -136-

Pedro Devalo »Silencio« -152-

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September 2012

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Kirsten Becken »magic wild ride« -162-

Sara Mautone »2 dreams« -170-

Edgar Berg »one of these days« -182-

Simone Lezzi »Black horses«

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FASHION IN 3D FABRIC SHAPES Eva Chatburn -128-

Brands -204-14-

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SimoN'S SPEcial #SElEctioN iN SEPtEmBEr

PEtEr NoN Peter Non shoes are carefully and laboriously handcrafted from eco-friendly materials at the foot of the Dolomites in Italy. “Peter Non should be considered a 'non-shoe' something that you slip on as easily as you would unconsciously begin walking with your left foot...” say designers Massimo and Silvia about their brand. The name “Peter”, from the greek “petros”, means “stone”: solid, durable and multifaceted in a word “eternal”. The surname, “Non”, is related to the concept of “non-shoe” and embodies the Venetian origins of the brand.

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September 2012

The theme of Peter Non's Spring/Summer 2013 collection is "Back to Paradise". But how does one get back to a place that one does not remember?

The Collection was inspired by those things you cannot remember, but know you've encountered before. From a different time, location and probably a different life. From a place with a warm breeze and strange gentle light. Back when you felt alive. Back to Paradise.

Peter Non was born as a hand-crafted shoe mounted on an anatomic cork and caucciù insole.

The Spring/Summer 2013 collection introduces three brand new models: the “lowrider” shoe, the “mission” sandal, the “beacher” mule and the "Vìvì" sandal. This season Peter Non offers a mix of refined materials, characterised by the earthy, natural, at times simple, sometimes refined: waterproof leathers, scratched and greased, cotton and linen tissues, silk and lace, hand-treatments with wax and colour, details of feathers and fish scales, camo texture, woven leather, fabric and raffia. www.peternon.com

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droME FACTORY is a young and dynamic new company set up by the designers behind the Santacroce brand. The company works together like a family where each member’s passion and creativity is encouraged to contribute to the final product.

At the heart of the plan for DROMe is leather - a living, natural material that DROMe work with in a totally original way. The designs are a long way from the traditional classic leather jacket, and embrace the style of modern sports bike riders, combining a biker-rock style with exciting new ways of treating and finishing the material. DROMe is not only a product but also the search for a personal and unmistakable taste born from a poetic vision of leather and a zealous passion for this material.

DROMe is a metropolitan collection, for both day and evening. The use of the garments is cross-sectional: easy to wear but at the same time, extremely elegant and luxurious.

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September 2012

For the incoming winter season, DROMe revisits the famous fairy tale "Little Red Riding Hood" in a dark way. Thin figures with a precise silhouette come out from the dark. They are the modes Red Riding Hood, dressed only in leather with a minimal palette of colors where black and purple are prominent.

The language is fluid and deconstructed. The lines are sophisticated and essential. Everything is about a new conception of the leather garment which becomes modern and unexpected: the leather is bounded with jersey and with compact wool, it is waxed with a marble effect.

The collection is crepuscular and feminine, wrapped into a foggy blackout. Beauty is gothic, minimal and sensual: a new Little Red Riding Hood who will leave the unlucky scary wolf breathless. www.dromedesign.it

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ing with marine gear, deep sea suits and things like that in my house. I wanted to put my family history into this brand, so I am always looking to put this element of interesting sea parts into my designs.

Secondly, I’m Japanese, and my brand is very much connected to Japanese production.

High-quality Japanese leather is very important to the brand. High quality tanning as well as the formation of the bag by Japanese person.

corNELiAN tAurus I started my brand in 2007. The first collection was produced for Autumn/Winter 2007. For this season I worked with just one shop in Paris.

I was working in buying and marketing for five years and used to travel oversees four times each year, so I met a lot of designers, showroom staff and so on. Before this, I worked for about 18 months in a bag company where I got the experience of how to make bags. Then, when I was a buyer, I continued to work with bags, making made-to-order items for customers in my spare time. For seven years I was mixing my main job of marketing and buying with making a small amount of bespoke bags.

Cornelian Taurus has three key points. Firstly, Cornelian Taurus bags feature details inspired by heavy marine parts, my father was a marine engineer, and as a child I was always play-

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Putting focus on the potential of the leather, the elegant yet playful elements mixed into the functionality of the bag. I also want to put my personal experiences into the brand experiences I often learn from travelling. These three parts are the key elements of the brand.

The user can see through the bag to see the culture of Japan. www.corneliantaurus.com

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September 2012

AMY GLENN Amy Glenn creates a line that translates her artistic vision. She is committed to the elusive and apparent, to protection and refusal, the seen and unseen, integration of the known and unknown.

Her collection is full of magical hand dyed fabrics and mysterious jewelry.

Using the softest, lightest fabrics you could imagine she hand bleaches, tie-dyes or paints each piece by hand to perfection.

The magic of her jewelry line comes influenced by the minimalism and natural energy melting together. This certain silence crossed with the edge of time gives her jewelry this special appearance and her punk attitude to life.

Her main theme is the circle and the square in a minimalistic way, but with a harsher side, rings in aged and darkened silvered or in oxidized bronze or even black onyx, combined with soft leather, heavy and comfortable pieces and the same time, she tells us.

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Amy’s inspirations come from autonomy, transformation, not mirroring another. Individuality and the balance to know that we are a part of the past, the future and the ancient, yet maintain a personal sentiment of today in the moment. Nature, detritus, ancestry, mastery and craftsmanship.

The religion of roots. Devotion, the broth of the mind, genuine encounters. Silence. What lives at the edges. Opposites and complementariness. I am inspired by mystery, Amy says. The tension of pain and sorrow must be washed and rinsed and dried and washed and rinsed again until the unspoken is visible. One’s triumphs are a legacy.

Stars such as Lenny Kravitz, Gwen Stefani, Russel Brand felt already in love with her pieces and it will be just a question of time when you will discover your love for her amazing energy in her work. www.a147g.com

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September 2012

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autumn in the woods photography by hoLLiE cArLiN styling by rAPhAELLE MArshALL styling assistant Natalie alexandrou hair by joE browN @ suE ALLAtt make-up Emily mcEwan models cAitLiN ANd kiNGA @ sELEct

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dress  Beatrice Newman

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P a u l & J o E S i S t E r shirt Blow

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sleeveless blazer Charlie May bandeau China Doll Boutique pencil skirt Liz Black shoes Walter Steiger

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l e a t h e r j a c k e t Cdhraerslsi e t i Mb ai y shirt j u mFpRsEuNiCH t CO Ke N lN lE y CTIO LovN e

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grunge kandie photography by Alex kahan styling by dietmar herbert hair & make-up by manuela schwozer

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pants cheap monday b o d y a m e r i c a n a pp a r e l l west muubaa

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Lost Angeles photography by AYshA bANos styling by AMbEr MortENsEN hair & make-up by doMiNiquE LErMA model jEssicA todAY @ q ModEL MANAGEMENt

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FIRESTARTER photography by AGNiEszkA chAbros styling by siNEAd hArGrEAVEs hair & make-up by VictoriA MArtiN models GrAcE @ GiANt MGt

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v e s t & s i l k t e e ROMA N C E WA S B OR N f r o m MILLY S L E E P I N G c o a t v i n t a g e s h eeps k i n f r o m s h a g s h o r t s a r ns d o r f f r o m MILLY S L E E P I N G s k u l l e a r i n g F O X TAL E f r o m D E S IG N A S P AC E c u t a w a y w e d g e s i c e q u een f r o m s h a g

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vest & silk tee romaNcE waS BorN From milly SlEEPiNg gray skirt kuwaii From milly SlEEPiNg cutaway wedges icEquEEN From Shag skull earing FoX talE From dESigN a SPacE tribal beads BoutiquE BEadS

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vest & silk tee romaNcE waS BorN From milly SlEEPiNg coat viNtagE ShEEPSkiN From Shag shorts arNSdorF From milly SlEEPiNg skull earing FoX talE From dESigN a SPacE cutaway wedges icEquEEN From Shag

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orange knit gorman shirt vintage from shag heart earrings shag peggy pants gorman p l a t f o r m s a n d l a s v a ss a l l o f r o m s h a g

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orange knit gorman shirt vintage from shag heart earrings shag peggy pants gorman p l a t f o r m s a n d l a s v a ss a l l o f r o m s h a g

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s h i r t GARY B IG E N I p a n t s ROMA N C E WA S B OR N necklace & earrings fox tale pink heels

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f r o m ALIC E E U P H E MIA f r o m MILLY S L E E P I N G f r o m d es i g n a sp a c e f v a ss a l l o f r o m s h a g

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p e a c o a t ROMA N C E WA S B OR N se t f r o m MILLY S L E E P I N G p i n k h e e l s VA S S ALLO f r o m s h a g s k u l l e a r r i n g s f o x t a l e f r o m d es i g n a sp a c e g

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shirt cloSEd trousers g Star

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DOWN

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photography by Heiko Laschitzki model Lena, Melanie, Polly @ lichtkind Maria @ Izaio models Alex, Anika

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shoes Prada t r o u s e r s P r a d a

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When autumn falls illustrations by  michele moricci all the styles from  f/w 2012-13

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dress  gaetano navarra

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Possible Dreams photography by ALEssANdro MArchEsE hair & make-up by kAtiA orLANdELLi model irENE MAioriNo

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FASHION IN 3D FABRIC SHAPES The fashion designer Eva Chatburn lives and works in Berlin. For SUPERIOR Magazine Tom talked to her regarding her label.

# Tell us a little bit more about you as a designer.

As I see it a designers work combines aesthetics and a kind of engineering and this balance between the practical and the ethereal is what I find so appealing, there are some parallels to architecture in this respect: math’s and art. Architects in designing their shells for people and processes, may consider the weather, a designer has to consider more internal biological 'weather'; buildings don't stretch, lose and gain weight or perspire. There is also the psychological 'weather' of emotions and ego – internal wishes, aspirations and complex sociological signals shown through clothing. As well as sketching on paper I do the pattern cutting constructing the 2D paper templates that will be transformed into 3D fabric shapes. This isn’t usually a job for the designer but I feel that outsourcing it would be like cooking blindfolded – I need that connection to the making process.

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# How would you characterize your fashion design?

My starting point is always the body (how can I make it look better basically!) rather than garments themselves – reinterpreting a trench coat or whatever. Making clothes can be quite sculptural and you get a deep kind of understanding of the human body. My background in art with years of life drawing – looking and measuring: bones, proportions, typical subcutaneous fat patterns – helps a lot. Often, shaving millimetres off the curve of a seam line with my automatic pencil poised I feel like a surgeon, visualising the planes of the body; how it bends and typically holds itself – how the fabric will cling and fall. In the end it is the great British tradition of tailoring, though the jersey fabric and shapes I now work with are quite different to the traditional cloth and cutting at Pooles of Saville Row where I was an intern, it’s the same principle: creating a garment that will enhance and improve the wearers figure.

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# What makes your clothes different from other labels?

My aim is that that my pieces can be recognized, to have a strong aesthetic which shows through – the 'handwriting'. This is not to say there is no room for newness - that’s essential - but it means that new pieces may explore different silhouettes or details while fitting into the look which first attracted a customer. Like a relationship with a person the brand always presents fresh experiences and aspects but the essential character and values remain the same. In practical terms - general design decisions on details like how close fitting to the body a piece is - and most of mine are - to very specific things that may not be noticeable at first like a favoured depth for a band or collar (3.3cm) or button diameter (also 3.3cm) in this way there is a feeling of harmony when you buy a new piece and wear it with a piece from two seasons ago.

So one thing that differentiates me is a concern for a much longer product lifespan.

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# How important is sustainability to you?

Beyond its recent incarnation as a rather annoying buzzword this has long been my major concern. Alex Williams writing for the New York Times described fashion as “the deliberate inculcation of obsolescence” which is what I am pushing to move on from in my work, I aim for pieces to be timeless and authentic. All my fabrics are organically grown fibres certified by GOTS and IVN, that’s just logical – responsibility and intelligence in materials selection as a creator. Sustainability is in the eye of the beholder perhaps; the materials used, the lasting appeal of the design and the use cycle - that is how often it needs to be cleaned and how - all play their part.

My items are all machine washable, a vision may be baroque, bohemian or verging on insane, nevertheless, washable at 30 degrees please. That clothes be washable seems a design essential to me, the challenge is then to push that as far into extravagant shapes as possible.

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# Where do you get your inspirations for your label from?

Going through life, seeing mostly but also smelling, hearing, dreaming and fantasizing, fragments of ideas and images float by and some are captured and consumed in the form of memories and then inspire new ideas in the designers brain. There is a kind of internal selection process that may be instant or it may be that things lodge unnoticed in the mind and body to emerge years or decades later into consciousness and be absorbed into the creative process. I think all artists and designers do this and it’s a largely unconscious process - so the easy answer is: inspiration comes from everywhere, films, books, chats, loves, the way a shovel scraped a pile of sand on a walk around the block... just living which is why artists and designers often gravitate to areas with the highest density of visual diversity and contrast like a kind of kaleidoscope, different nationalities and social backgrounds

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and purposes shaken up to make ever new patterns. If I had to choose one thing as important for inspiration it would be this, my environment.

If I come out into the street and there’s lametta flying in a tree for no reason or someone has written a poem on a fence or there’s a broken puppet on an electric box, this kind of seemingly banal trash street dialogue is for me the true cultural capital of a city and not its operas theatres and museums. Berlin more than anywhere presents me with this daily bizarre visual diary and I need it like food.

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# What are your plans for the future?

To keep on creating collections and exploring new ideas, adding to the library of pieces... I make sure I would wear a piece myself – so that I stand for what I produce, in the past I tried to separate the self and the product but I feel much more involved and authentic this way. I look forward to doing more collaborations, working with artists and filmmakers, which I’m planning - and finding new collectors and customers who share (and wear) my vision. Really I want to the label to be a basis for linking to other fields, like literature or product design, thinking and linking ...hmm. I’m keen to do further research and consulting in ecological and sustainable design perhaps also teaching which I enjoy. A designer

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has the chance to influence and change things in that they choose the materials and processes with which they produce and I want to aim for continual betterment with regard to sustainability and technical processes. One field I would like to look at in more detail is dying - fabric not expiring - though I guess ironically a lot of what I do is ultimately concerned with mortality. Timor Mortis – I think it’s a very deep source for many creatives like Damien Hirst or T.S. Eliot who 'saw the skull beneath the skin'.

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# Where would you like to be with your label in e.g. 5 years?

'5 years' – like the Bowie song? – that’s quite appropriate. Right now my label is in its infancy but I want it to grow to be a premise for a viable alternative. An independent label with small but consistent collections that are highly collectable. I want to fill the gap for women who want something avant-garde yet wearable, dignified as well as playful, that want to be able to move and dance and stretch in pieces that combine a sportswear sensibility with their head in the coutures. My clothes are inclusive in that they are designed to actually look good on real bodies so they should have broad appeal in that way.

However rather than aiming for being hyped I’d be happy with a quiet band of dedicated followers who are looking to express the complexity and contradictions in their character – and of course who have a conscience. A different kind of beauty.

photography by kAsPEr. hair & make-up by tAtiANA AshAkoVA model YAsMiN @ izAio ModELs assistant ELLA kAzANtsEVA all outfits by Eva chatBurN

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photography by Lindsay Hamlyn styling by jared musiker hair & make-up by natasha papadopolous models elze @ ice model managment total looks by jared musiker

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shirt Jeremy Scott pour adidas leggins vintage v e s t ep i s o d e e t i enne m a r c e l shoes Buffalo

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September 2012

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September 2012

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September 2012

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SILENCIO photography by PEdro dEVALo assistant photographer JS diEz styling by isAbEL ELuNku hair & make-up by MArY MdL model oLEA @ uNo ModELs

total look

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aNillartE

neck & bra anillarte pants sayan bracelets h&m shoes luis onofre

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oNliNE

dress amaya arzuaga cross necklace ElEoNor caNavaS

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September 2012

p a b e l b u s t s k a t e d r e s s d r ess u p t o ps h o p spike collar stylist´s own

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oNliNE

dress maria laFuENtE necklace h&m

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September 2012

dress-shirt amaya arzuaga c u l o t t e i n t i m i ss i m i stockings wolford vintage shoes & earings H&M

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oNliNE

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September 2012

l e a t h e r b o d y a l ex v i d a l shoes luis onofre earings eleonor canovas

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oNliNE

golden dress PENEloPE almENdroS skull necklace ElEoNor caNovaS

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September 2012

bra & corset anillarte c u l o t t e i n t i m i ss i m i stockings wolford c r i n o l i n e m i ss se l f d es t r u c t i v e necklace skewers stylist shoes zara

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magic wild ride photography by kirstEN bEckEN styling by LidA LuNd make-up & hair PhuoNG thAi model juNE @ ELitE

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September 2012

p u l l o v e r & p a n t s w ee k d a y bolero coast b o o t s w ee k d a y v i n t a g e

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oNliNE

dress wardroBE pullover muuBaa scarf airStEP boots wEEkday viNtagE

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September 2012

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oNliNE

dress wardroBE cape airStEP necklace chEaP moNday gloves wEEkday boots wEEkday viNtagE

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September 2012

c o r s a g e & p a n t s Ann a S t u be r n e c k l a c e Wee k d a y

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dress Dimitri p u l l o v e r Wee k d a y gloves Lutz Huelle belt Balmain tights Stylist’s own b o o t s Wee k d a y V i n t a g

oNliNE

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September 2012

shirt & pants monki n e t t o p A m e r i c a n App a r e l bra dkny b o o t s w ee k d a y v i n t a g e

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2 dreams photography by sArA MAutoNE styling by irENE GhiLLANi & PriscA MAizzi make-up by MAriNA bErNAcchioNi hair MichELE di GioVANNi model MArtiNA & LAurA @ woMEN

jacket StEFaNEl bodysuit viNtagE trousers gucci short viNtagE shoes h&m -170earrings viNtagE

September 2012

j a c k e t V i v i enne Wes t w o o d polo, skirt & trousers vintage socks & shoes h&m

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September 2012

blouse vintage shirt h&m skirt vintage earings vintage s o c k s d i ese l s h o e s d es i g ne d i n j a p a n

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oNliNE

polo & shirt viNtagE tights Primark shoes miami

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shirt h&m skirt vintage leggings Maliparmi socks stylist´s own shoes Costume National headband stylist´s own

oNliNE

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September 2012

shirt & skirt vintage waistcoat costumized by stylist s o c k s A m e r i c a n App a r e l shoes h&m

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oNliNE

jacket viNtagE bodysuit viNtagE skirt viNtagE leggings Primark shoes ViNTAGE BY lEmAGASS ViNTAGE-BERliN

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September 2012

dress Ravi Famous London shirt vintage h e a d b a n d M i ss o n i earings vintage

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oNliNE

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shirt horacE blouse & skirt viNtagE tights h&m shoes viNtagE foulard hauBEr

September 2012

blouse h&m shirt & skirt vintage socks Emilio Cavallini shoes Costume National

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September 2012

One Of These Days photography by edgar berg styling by cäthe klein make-up / hair by Anja Schweihoff model Lea Banasch @ Modelwerk Assistent Alexander Marquardt

skirt Mango armlet vintage

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shirt coS armlet aSoS

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September 2012

shirt cos armlet asos

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oNliNE

shirt coS armlet aSoS

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September 2012

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oNliNE

shape skirt triumPh pin StyliSt´S owN

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September 2012

l i n g e r i e   LA S CA N A

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oNliNE

lace top

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zara

September 2012

skirt  zara

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oNliNE

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September 2012

shirt promod p a n t y P ALM E R S

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oNliNE

BLACK HORSES photography by siMoNE LEzzi styling by rAPhAELLE MArshALL make-up / hair by sANdrA hAdi co-op teal druda model MoNikA @ first total looks by MEErA shArMA

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September 2012

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oNliNE

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September 2012

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September 2012

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September 2012

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#

Brands aigNEr airStEP amEricaN aPParEl amy glENN aNita krizaNovic BalmaiN BarBara lohmaNN BEatricE NEwmaN BogNEr chaNEl chaNtEllE charliE may chEaP moNday chiNa doll BoutiquE cloSEd corNEliaN tauruS coS coStumE NatioNal diESEl dimitri dkNy dromE

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Emilio cavalliNi Eva chatBurN FalkE FEmmE FatalE Filodoro glaw glowy BoX G-STAR gormaN gracE & viNE gucci h&m hauBEr hugo BoSS ihEart JaSPEr garvida JESSica tiEgEl

September 2012

Kelly Love Lee lever couture Levis Liz Black Lutz Huelle Maliparmi MANGO Marni

material girl Max Mara Meera Sharma

moga e mago Monki muubaa new era

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Paul & Joe Sister peter non Primark PROMOD Rainer Brand Ravi Famous Replay Roeckl ROMANCE WAS BORN Schiesser Stefanel stine goya

tibi

tiger of sweden

TRIUMPH united nude Vivienne Westwood Walter Steiger Wardrobe Weekday wkndlvrs

ZARA

oNliNE

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Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com

magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com

# October 2012

# MAY 2012 Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com

September 2012

boys will be boys

# JUNE 2012

oNliNE

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September 2012

B ER LI N E 4 – 6 I 10 9 6 3 S S A TR S ER Com LU C K EN WA LD H I @ f9 5 S To R E. I 8 5 3 3 8 0 2 +4 9 ( 0 ) 3 0 4 R E. C o m W W W.f 9 5 S To RS m. o P EN IN G H o U AY 11 A .m . – 8 P. ID fR – AY D moN . m A .m . – 6 P. S AT U R D AY 11 -209-

magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com

boys will be boys

coming out on october 19th 2012

# october 2012