Winter in the West 2022

Healthy Comfort Food

WINTER in the WEST 217 ways to savor the season

A-FRAMES A to Z

SNOWY WYOMING VIETNAMESE GETAWAYS CABIN MAKEOVER HOLIDAY FEAST

LIVE LIFE OUTSIDE C rEaTE

a wELL - DESIgnED SpaCE anD ChangE

yOUr rELaTIOnShIp wITh OUTDOOr LIVIng .

MILL VALLEY I WALNUT CREEK I BERKELEY I SAN RAMON I BURLINGAME

I

MOUNTAIN VIEW I LOS GATOS

FOUNTAIN VALLEY I PASADENA I ROCKLIN

TERRAOUTDOOR.COM

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888.449.8325

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CONTENTS WINTER IN THE WEST Designer Heather Taylor sets the perfect holiday table.

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Editor’s Letter On hitting the road for the holidays.

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Best of the West Montana’s coolest getaway, versatile vessels, Western bubbles, and more.

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Holiday Gift Guide Western home goods for the cook, the plant parent, the sweet tooth, and the art lover.

Home & Garden

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Wyoming at Heart Tour a rustic mountain

compound transformed by the founder of whimsical

housewares brand Coral & Tusk.

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Checklist What to do in your garden now.

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A-Frame A Game A Lake Arrowhead home is

small in size but big on style.

Plus, A-frames through the years.

Food & Drink

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Vegan Mexican Treats

florist Whit McClure show you

Delectable baked goods

how to create a homey holiday haven.

DIANA KOENIGSBERG

cookbook.

Little Apple A-frame in Lake Arrowhead, California.

Photograph by TH O MAS J. STO RY

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Vietnamese Holiday Feast The family behind the best

fish sauce in the world cooks up a delicious and vibrant celebratory meal.

Designer Heather Taylor,

caterer Annie Campbell, and

from Edgar Castrejón’s new

ON THE COVER

Cozy in the Canyon

Travel & Escapes

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New on the Slopes The best spots for skiing,

eating, drinking, and spa-ing in the mountains.

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Annual Travel Awards After a one-year hiatus, we’re back with the best

destinations, lodging, and activities now.

Voices of the West

96 Voices of the West

Talking trash with Sara Smith, founder of sustainable

wrapping paper company Wrappily.

WINTER IN THE WEST 2022 • SUNSET

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Happy Holidays, Happy Trails

CHAIRMAN & PUBLISHER

Michael A. Reinstein PUBLISHER

David Steinhafel

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Hugh Garvey When I travel for Sunset, I try to work in an early morning run to get grounded in the here and now of wherever I am in the West. Over the past year, I’ve conducted rolling case studies of midcentury modern architecture on the sidewalks of Palm Springs, trotted with cattle in pastures above Solvang, sprinted past pricey dew-covered Pinot Noir in Sebastopol, and studied the shifting blue of the Pacific at a slow jog in foggy Cambria.

Essential ingredients for the Pham family feast.

Out there on the roads and trails, you get to see things you wouldn’t otherwise.

At the halfway point of an out-and-back run down Dillon Beach to Lawson’s Landing—a 1950s campground and fishing spot on Tomales Bay—something clicked. Not mentally. But physically. In my heel. I ignored it, mesmerized as I was by the herons, kitesurfers, roiling waves, and sheer joy of sprinting down a stretch of coast that makes one grateful to be living on the far western edge of this continent. I paid it no mind until the next day when a searing pain hobbled me for a full two months, depriving me of the research runs, the weekend hikes, and the neighborhood ambles I’ve grown to love. It was one of those periods of subtraction that makes you insanely appreciative for the things you take for granted. When people in my house asked me what I wanted for Christmas, my answer was to be able to run again.

Thanks to some humbling but biomechanically beneficial yoga, I’m back at it—just in time for the holidays, a season I associate with running and hiking as much as eating and drinking. With a rare stretch of days off from work and the family under one roof, it’s a lovely way to reconnect with the kids, burn off those indulgent meals, and enjoy the briefly crisp winter air of Los Angeles. When I’m not out there on the road, I’ll most definitely be cooking from this issue. Cooking is another way that I connect with the West, which is why I’m making chef Diep Tran’s spectacular Vietnamese-style turkey from the Pham family holiday feast (page 52). The Phams are behind Red Boat, the excellent artisanal fish sauce, and are a quintessentially Western success story. I’ll also be dropping hints about what I want from our guide to gifts from Western makers (page 14) and dreaming about the inspiring destinations I want to visit in the glorious return to our annual travel awards (page 74). Whether you’re hunkering down at home with a cocktail in hand or hitting the trails with your eyes on the horizon, we’ve got you covered.

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Michael Wilson PHOTO EDITOR

Christine Bobbish STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER

Thomas J. Story

SENIOR EDITOR

Kristin Scharkey DIGITAL EDITOR

Jennifer Konerman HOME & DESIGN EDITOR

Christine Lennon GARDEN EDITOR

Deanna Kizis

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Magdalena O’Neal DIGITAL PRODUCER

Nicole Clausing WILDLANDS EDITOR

J.D. Simkins

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Jamie Elliott

SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL INITIATIVES

Matt Gross

EDITORIAL INTERNS

Navpreet Sekhon Teaghan Skulszki Frederick Tippett Sales SVP, MEDIA SOLUTIONS

Mort Greenberg VP, PARTNERSHIPS

Kathleen Craven HEAD OF TRAVEL

Pamela Coffey HEAD OF OUTDOOR

Kristi Rummel

SVP, REVENUE OPERATIONS

Kelly Facer

DIRECTOR OF AD OPERATIONS

Mindy Morgan

ACCOUNT MANAGER

Cammeo Murray

SALES & MARKETING INTERN

—Hugh Garvey,

Morgan Madison

E D ITO R-I N - CH I E F

Marketing CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Stephen Kamifuji

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For assistance with your Sunset subscription, call 1-800-777-0117.

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SUNSET • WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

Tom Griffiths, Graydon Sheinberg

VP, AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT & CIRCULATION

Shawn Byers

THOMAS J. STORY

SunsetMagazine

HEAD OF CUSTOM EVENTS

DESIGN AND PHOTOGRAPHY: OREN DOTHEN ARCHITECT - DARX STUDIO

SPECIALTY WOOD FLOORING DESIGNED AND CRAFTED TO INSPIRE THE CREATION OF BEAUTIFUL SPACES

LA SHOWROOM 130 S Roberston Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048 (1-1/2 blocks south of Beverly, between Alden Drive and W. 3rd)

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Say it with Stone

Versatile, textural, and durable Eldorado Stone can take your home improvement or building project to the next level. Here are three inspiring ways to dial in your design.

Go Organic Modern

Modern design’s clean lines can feel austere without other elements to soften and counterbalance its elegant minimalism. This great room gets even greater with a floor to ceiling stone fireplace made with Eldorado Stone’s Vantage30 stone veneer in White Elm. The fireplace leans into the space’s soaring volumes, simultaneously enhancing the height while also literally and figuratively warming it up with its earth tones, tactile surface, and cozy fire. The planklike 30-inch long pieces are scaled just right for the space and set the tone for other organic flourishes like wooden pendant lamps, exposed timber, and a double-height firewood nook. Together these elements add a welcome touch of hygge to this Scandinavian-inspired project.

Design a Cooler Kitchen

There’s a reason TundraBrick is one of Eldorado Stone’s best selling lines: it can swing modern or rustic depending on how it’s used. This modern loft kitchen manages to be both sleek and soft in just the right way. Featured here in Chalk Dust, TundraBrick adds a more integrated look than tile and ties together the other well-chosen materials. The counter-to-ceiling installation and matte finish add a soft luminosity to the moody space, while unifying the forms and colors of the cabinets and fixtures. The gray accent bricks pick up the stainless steel appliances and give the contemporary space a welcome timeless appeal.

Maximize and Mix Materials

Going big with stone in just the right way to connect a home with its surroundings, as perfectly illustrated in this modern farmhouse that pushes the contrast with a dramatic black garage joining the classic white siding we all know and love. While Eldorado Stone’s Casa Blanca RoughCut stone is more traditional, the way it’s integrated into the facade is anything but. The natural color and classic stacked stone shape grounds the house in its woodsy setting while softening the graphic contrast of the black and white siding. It’s an enduring example of how stone can transform a striking house into an inviting home.

For more home design inspiration go to eldoradostone.com

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JUST AS YOU IMAGINED Eldorado Stone produces premium stone products that empower visionaries and creators with inspiration to create more meaningful environments and experiences.

eldoradostone.com

Image © 2021 Altura Homes

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BEST

OF T H E

WEST

The Next A-Frame The Backcountry Hut Co. is reimagining what an off-the-grid

getaway can be with its forward-thinking kit houses that embody the spirit of the original A-frames (for a capsule history,

see page 45). The Vancouver, B.C.–based company’s prefabri-

cated systems include a compact black-clad cabin with a loft

(shown here), a larger two-story cabin, a sleek sauna, and, yes,

an A-frame that can be built by four handy DIYers. Your modern

@LECKIESTUDIO

luxe retreat is within reach. THEBACKCOUNTRYHUTCOMPANY.COM

WINTER IN THE WEST 2022 • SUNSET

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Versatile Vessels

‘TIS THE SEASON

KEEP YOUR COFFEE WARM AND YOUR WHISKEY COLD THIS SEASON WITH CUPS AND CONTAINERS THAT ARE DECIDEDLY CHIC.

Gather around Wolfum’s handmade board games this holiday season, from dominoes to checkerboards that double as stylish serving trays. DOMINOES, $68;

CHECKERS, $80; WOLFUM.COM

Portland artist Martina Thornhill’s Okay Cups are in high demand, so watch for pre-order dates to snag one of these reusable mugs. $52; MARTINATHORNHILL.COM

Winter Escape

Clark Farm Silos have us dreaming about a weekend getaway in Montana.

Sitting on land farmed by four generations of

the Clark family, each silo is appointed with a loft bedroom and firepit perfect for s’mores.

Winter stays mean acres of cross-country

skiing and end-of-day sessions in two onsite barrel saunas. CLARKFARMSILOS.COM

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This 6-oz. hip flask from the Idaho family-owned WUDN is made with stainless steel and sustainably sourced wood. $29; SHOPWUDN.COM

WOLFUM: COURTESY OF WOLFUM; CLARK FARM SILOS, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: GARRETT CORNELISON (3); ELI CLARK; MARTINA THORNHILL: THOMAS J. STORY

Made in Oregon, each hand-blown North Drinkware glass features an iconic Western mountain, from Mt. Hood to the Tetons. $48; NORTHDRINKWARE.COM

EMTEK SELECT DOORKNOBS

Mix & match knob, stem and rosette for a custom look Part of ASSA ABLOY

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NEW YEAR, NEW SIPS CHAMPAGNE? THINK TWICE. SIP THE WEST’S BEST SPARKLING WINE ON NEW YEAR’S EVE.

SUPERIOR SPARKLES

You can taste the precision in Caraccioli Cellars 2015 Brut Cuvée, the winery’s first vintage made entirely with estate fruit from the Santa Lucia Highlands.

CARACCIOLICELLARS.COM

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BUBBLES TO BOOT

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Tablescape Tips 3 ways to set a stylish and sustainable table, according to the co-founders of Atelier Saucier.

PLAYFUL TOAST

1. LAYER LINENS.

2. DINE WITH EDIBLE DESIGN.

3. MIX AND MATCH.

piece like a Dark Denim Run-

pop of color, as does locally

Napkins, or place a tea towel

ner, say Staci Inspektor and Nikki Reed, who repurpose textiles in Los Angeles. $72

Rainbow Burlap Napkins add a grown produce. A farmers’

market is the “perfect” place to “sustainably stock up.” $66

Add in Blush Linen Cocktail

beneath shared dishes “to add extra textural moments.”

Look for the octopus on Carboniste’s 2019 Gomes Vineyard Sparkling Albariño, an easy-drinking, playful wine from Sacramento’s Andrus Island that will make you wonder, Why didn’t I always drink American sparkling?

CARBONISTE.COM

$28 FOR FOUR; ATELIERSAUCIER.LA

HOLIDAY SPRUCE-UP

Need to elevate your sofa for entertaining? Lauren Meichtry makes it easy with her growing pillow business Elsie Home. For Southern California clients, she’ll come to your house with every piece in her collection and style your sofa. If you send photos through elsiehome.co, she can do it remotely and put together options.

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Sunset in a Box!

Sig n up for our new

season al sub scription box loa ded wit h the best winter entertaining pro ducts. Sta rting at $69.99. Lea rn mo re at sunset .com/box

ATELIER SAUCIER: DANIELLE ADAMS; ELSIE HOME: PUBLIC 311 DESIGN

Start with a modern center-

Josh Hammerling used grapes from myriad cool-climate California sites for Hammerling Co. 2019 Sunflower Sutra, which is exactly what we want on a breezy winter night—ideally with fresh oysters.

HAMMERLINGWINES.CO

BRING YOUR VISION TO US The experts at Ferguson Bath, Kitchen & Lighting Gallery are here to help create a home that’s as extraordinary as you are.

Any project, any style, any dream—bring your inspiration to Ferguson Bath, Kitchen & Lighting Gallery. Visit build.com/ferguson to schedule your personalized showroom experience today.

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REFRAMING EFFICIENCY

Upgrading your windows with JELD-WEN can make a big impact on energy savings.

Here are three ways to do it.

While new technology and construction methods are the hot topic in sustainability and energy savings, simply upgrading your windows is one of the best and easiest ways to make your home more energy efficient.

According to the U.S. Department of Energy, about 30% of a home’s heating energy is lost through windows in the winter. In warmer months, three-quarters of the sunlight that shines through standard, double-pane windows enters the house to become heat.

This year round energy issue can be solved stylishly with JELD-WEN windows.

Here’s how.

Retrofit If you’re struggling with older sash windows—the popular 1920s design in which window panels are balanced by counterweights hidden inside the frame—the window experts at JELD-WEN have a solution: Replace the inner workings to get them to

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function properly, while preserving the traditional look and operation. The JELD-WEN Siteline® Pocket and Sash Pack® windows provide the components needed to repair the interior workings of traditional sashed windows. The series includes double-hung pocket, casement pocket, and sash pack windows and can be used to replace any comparable wood window product.

Replace Consider replacing your ancient windows with coated Low-E glass, a material so energy-efficient that it’s used in LEED-certified (which stands for “Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design”) homes. Low-E, meaning “Low-Emissivity,” is an extremely thin layer, or several layers, of metallic particles applied to the glass which, in simple terms, allows the glass to act like a sieve. Long heat wavelengths are filtered out, while short wavelengths (the visible light spectrum) are allowed to pass through. Need greater protection for fading wood floors and upholstery? There’s a Low-E for that. Do you want a lot of visible light but no heat? There’s a Low-E for that, too. Adding argon gas to the captive

air space between glass panes will improve insulating value. Adding various tinting agents to the glass itself will allow for even further refinement of the glass’ performance.

Reframe The frame of the window is just as crucial to energy savings as the glass. Wood windows from JELD-WEN, made with AuraLast® pine, deliver the beauty of natural wood without the worry of rot. They’re built ready for stain, clear coat, or paint to get the exact look you want, and they’re easy to care for. Clad-wood windows feature beautiful wood inside the home and protective, low-maintenance metal cladding outside to provide extra protection against the elements. The baked-on finish is durable, easy to care for, and available in a variety of colors.

Whatever style fits your home, these JELDWEN window solutions will keep heat inside when the temperature drops and outside when the temperature rises. Just don’t forget to open them up to let in fresh air during all of the beautiful days in between.

For more information visit jeldwen.com

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BEAUTY AND RELIABILITY FOR EVERY HOME JELD-WEN ® windows and doors are designed to enhance your favorite spaces with solid performance and details that complement home styles from contemporary to historical.

Find the right look for your home from a breadth of design choices, or create a one-of-a-kind custom solution.

Visit JELD-WEN.com to see more.

Shown, EpicVue® Contemporary Clad Windows and Custom™ Wood Patio Doors

© 2021 JELD-WEN, Inc. All rights reserved. | JELD-WEN, the JELD-WEN Logo, the JW Logo, and EPICVUE are registered trademarks of JELD-WEN, Inc. CUSTOM WOOD is a trademark of JELD-WEN, Inc. 11-97910

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British designer Tracy Wilkinson crafts these stoneware pots in northeast Los Angeles.

Contact for pricing at TWWORKSHOP.COM.

Los Angeles writer and artist Raina Lee experiments with texture and form in a collection that spans vases, platters, and tea bowls.

Contact for pricing at RAINAJLEE.COM.

Succulent Studio will send two eight-week-old succulents to your door every month in biodegradable pots with care instructions.

The second-generation nursery uses only organic fertilizers, and its packages are plastic-free. $10 PLUS SHIPPING; SUCCULENT.STUDIO

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Portland ceramicist Jennée Antoinette’s small-batch Wayfaring Woman Ceramics stoneware planters are, as the artist says, “inspired by the beauty of Black women.” $72; WAYFARINGWOMANCE­ RAMICS.COM

Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

This holiday season, we’re celebrating a range of Western makers who are crafting everything from eco-friendly kitchen wares to artisanal chocolates and more. Got a loved one with a green thumb? Look no further than handmade planters and California-grown succulents.

Viviana Matsuda does all wheel-throwing in a San Francisco studio to create vibrant and colorful Mud Witch pots with drainage holes. $76; MUDWITCH.COM

SWEET TOOTH

WE’RE ALL ABOUT CHOCOLATE WITH A TWIST. MANY CHOCOLATIERS ARE EMBRACING ASIAN FLAVORS—LIKE THE ZING OF YUZU OR EARTHINESS OF MATCHA—OR INCORPORATING TROPICAL NOTES RANGING FROM GUAVA TO CALAMANSI.

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1. Seattle’s Hot Chocolat chef Michael Poole offers confections like matcha and chocolate ganache with pistachios. $45 FOR 12 PIECES; HOTCHOCOLAT.NET 2. Kokak Chocolate’s Carol Gancia draws on her IrishFilipino heritage to craft truffles, like matcha and white chocolate, in San Francisco. $41 FOR 16 PIECES; KOKAKCHOCO­ LATES.COM 3. Maui Ku’ia Estate Chocolate grows its own cacao and sources from others, providing a base for flavors like guava and mango. $22 GIFT TIN; MAUICHOCOLATE.COM

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4. French Laundry chef Thomas Keller debuted K+M Chocolates with flavors like yuzu— and truffle fries!

PRICE ON KELLERMAN­ NICHOCOLATE.COM

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5. Anchorage chef Ingrid Shim crafts yuzu Aurora Chocolate confections with cocoa butter to look like Alaska’s Northern Lights. $47 FOR 12 PIECES; AURO­ RACHOCOLATE.COM 6. Matcha meets yuzu in these white chocolate ganache truffles created by Kollar Chocolates’ Chris Kollar in Napa Valley. $48 FOR 16 PIECES; KOLLARCHOC­ OLATES.COM

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7. Deux Cranes founder and chocolatier Michiko Marron-Kibbey combines French techniques with flavors inspired by her childhood spent in Japan, as in this matcha chocolate with caramelized sesame bar made in Los Gatos, California. $12, DEUXCRANES.COM

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CONSCIOUS COOKING WE’RE ALL ABOUT REMOVING USELESS WASTE FROM THE KITCHEN. GIVE THE GIFT OF CONTRIBUTING TO A HEALTHIER PLANET. 1. Help your friends and family swap out their plastic wrap with these batik fabric Alaska Beeswax Wraps made in small batches by the Hankins family in Alaska. $52; ALASKA­ BEESWAXWRAPS.COM

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2. Goodies’ Teak Cutting Board is just one of many stylish kitchen accessories for $25 or less at the Los Angeles outpost, making it our go-to for ceramic and wood tools. $22; GOODIES.LA

3. Handcrafted in Portland, the 8-inch Steelport Knife Co. Chef Knife is made with a natural Oregon maple burl wood handle and American-forged carbon steel blade. $400; STEELPORT­ KNIFE.COM

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4. A Portland team created the castiron Finex Skillet to “stand the test of time” with eight rounded corners, angled sides, and a stainless steel spring handle.

From $150; FINEXUSA.COM

5. A motherdaughter duo created the No Tox Life Dish Block, which is best used with a Casa Agave Dish Brush and Moso Bamboo Soap Shelf. $8 FOR 6 OZ. BLOCK, $7 DISH BRUSH, $6 SOAP SHELF; NOTOXLIFE.COM

6. Opt for “buy-meonce” wooden spatulas like Earlywood’s The Essentials set, handcrafted at the base of Montana’s Beartooth Mountains. They come with a lifetime guarantee. $58; EAR­ LYWOODDESIGNS.COM

7. California designer Molly Hennessey-de Vries’s Non-Disposable Life Cloth Bowl Covers keep food fresh in dishes like this one made by sister Colleen Hennessey. $65 FOR 5, $200 BOWL; NONDIS­ POSABLELIFE.COM

PICTURE PERFECT MAKE A STATEMENT WITH A GALLERY WALL FEATURING PRINTS BY WESTERN ARTISTS—OR GIFT ONE TO MATCH A LOVED ONE’S STYLE.

San Francisco printmaker and poet James Lewis Tucker used handmade inks in this print titled “A Vast Expanse.”

From $40; THEAESTHE­ TICUNION.COM

You may have seen San Diego artist Maheswari Janarthanan’s work featured by the Jungalow home décor brand.

Fine art prints like “Infinite” are also available on Etsy. $40; MAHESWARIJANARTHANAN.COM

Denver artist Marsha Robinson created a limited run of Petite Fine Art Prints that are only sold in momand-pop shops. FROM $20; FIND STOCKISTS ON STRANGEDIRT.COM.

Scout Dunbar uses geometric patterns to create Southwest landscapes like “Sunset Over Picacho.” $75; SCOUTDUNBAR.COM

Arizona artist and carver Brit Hansen offers fine art giclée prints like this bold Yucca Canvas Print.

FROM $35; BRITHANSEN.ART

ADVERTISEMENT

How to Build a Home Today The future of home building has arrived, and it’s raising the bar on speed, quality, and reliability.

From weather delays to change orders, traditional construction is unreliable at best.

“On a conventional jobsite, one issue causes a domino effect of setbacks, with major implications for the project schedule and budget,” explains Amy Sims, VP of Design at prefabricated home builder Plant Prefab.

Fueled by a desire to improve this archaic process and build homes more sustainably, Sims transitioned to offsite construction more than fifteen years ago. She helped create Plant Prefab and its building system, which utilizes CAD engineering to determine the most efficient way to prefabricate almost any design. The company builds in a controlled manufacturing setting, concurrent with site work, greatly reducing total construction time. Strict workmanship standards and rigorous quality assurance protocols ensure superior craftsmanship.

“It’s just a better way to build,” says Sims.

“Clients get the freedom of custom design with the quality and reliability of factory production. It’s the future of home building.”

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ADVERTISEMENT

Clockwise from top: Plant Prefab home in Santa Monica, CA designed by Ray Kappe, FAIA; Plant Prefab home in Palo Alto, CA designed by Toby Long, AIA; Plant Prefab home in Olympic Valley, CA designed by The Brown Studio; Plant Design Studio rendering for a Plant Prefab home in Malibu, CA. See other projects and learn more on plantprefab.com.

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HOME

&

GARDEN

Home on the Range

From her log cabin in rural Wyoming, Brooklyn transplant Stephanie Housley creates her woodlandthemed pillow and textile collection, and relishes all that life on the range has to offer.

Story by CH RI STI N E LE N N O N Photographs by WI LL E LLI S

Coral & Tusk designer Stephanie Housley transformed a cabin 45 minutes away from “the closest jug of milk.”

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E Embroidery and home textile artist Stephanie Housley made her first trip to Wyoming to visit Yellowstone National Park and the Teton mountains on a family vacation from her native Ohio when she was 5. She has only a couple of photos to mark the journey.

But her eyes were opened to the possibility of living in an awe-inspiring

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landscape, and the impression the mountains left on her young mind was as big as the state itself. It was huge.

“You know when you have certain photos from your past that you love, and looking at them makes the memory feel more tangible?” says Housley.

“You see them and you can remember how the sun felt. That’s how I felt about those Wyoming pictures.”

Later in life, after graduating from the Rhode Island School of Design, Housley worked for textile companies in New York, developing patterns and weaves for silk fabric mills. On a whim in 2008, she bought a professional embroidery machine—for $10,000—to experiment with at home in her Brooklyn apartment. Her goal was to make enough items to sell at Brooklyn Flea and small children’s shops like Acorn so she could recoup her investment.

“At the time, a lot of my friends

SUNSET • WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

The 30-year-old log cabin is on 20 acres of rolling meadows.

were having babies,” says Housley.

“And I would make these embroideredfabric matching and memory games as a shower gift. It took hours and hours.”

When she sat down to sketch what she would stitch onto smooth, undyed linen, it was life in nature that inspired her. She drew feathers, canoes, bears, tents, and foxes in various anthropomorphized states, wearing overalls or a fishing cap. From her urban world, she channeled the woodland theme of birds, feathers, nests, and trees, and her work quickly transcended the children’s market because of its uniquely artistic aesthetic. If Wes Anderson were a pillow, he’d be one of Housley’s pillows.

“Nature has always been the main inspiration behind our designs, whether that’s a depiction of an animal, its habitat, or general botanical themes,” she says.

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High-end home goods icon John Derian caught wind of her creations. He placed a wholesale order, and Coral & Tusk, a line of intricately stitched pillows and home accessories, was born.

“I was working at my regular job during the day, and coming home and working on Coral & Tusk all night,” she says. “It was an 18-to-20 hour day.”

On a work trip to India, she asked a friend to help her find a small factory with a machine that could handle the intricate work.

“We found one guy who had the right machine at the end of a dirt road, in an open garage. And that’s who I work with to this day,” she says.

Housley and her husband, Chris, who owns a small digital archival media business, loved their New York lives—to a point. They knew they didn’t want to have a family and move to the suburbs like so many of their friends, but something was missing: nature. The West was calling.

“Chris I have been together since we were teenagers, and we took a road trip

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Coral & Tusk offers intricately stitched pillows and home goods.

Housley channels woodland themes into her designs.

SUNSET • WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

out to Idaho and Wyoming when we were first together, at 17 and 18, that was really magical,” she says. “Years later, we were still curious about life there, and thought we’d look for a summer place.”

The hunt began for a home within an hour’s drive of the Jackson airport, so they could both hop on a plane and get back to their offices in New York without too much effort. They made a few unsuccessful trips over holidays and vacations, and then, in 2016, their real estate agent called them about a 30-year-old log cabin on 20 acres of rolling meadows, dotted with trees, that bordered forest land. There were views of three mountain ranges.

“We’re 45 minutes from the closest jug of milk,” says Housley. “And once

we got here, we knew we would do whatever it took to stay there fulltime. People said the winters were so hard, and we were like, ‘What does that look like? What does that mean?’ ” They found out soon enough.

“Our first winter here there was record snowfall and tundra temperatures, the worst in 40 years,” she says.

“It was more snow than I’d ever seen.

We didn’t have a tractor or a backup generator, or a secondary heat source, but we figured it out.”

What they did have was the exact right aesthetic to make a rustic log cabin interior come to life. Housley’s textiles cover many of the surfaces, on upholstered chairs, in layers on warm, soft beds, and tacked onto the wall. It’s like the Three Bears’ cabin Goldilocks

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Stephanie Housley’s textiles add inviting layers to soft bedding.

Her studio is filled with treasures she finds on walks and trail runs.

26

SUNSET • WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

stumbles into and finds a “just right” place to rest.

The furniture is spare and rustic, a mix of new and vintage with simple, Shaker lines. The high ceilings and wall of windows looking out to their deck and the mountains beyond are the real stars of the show. Housley’s studio is filled with treasures she finds on her daily walks and trail runs: redtailed hawk feathers, stones, shed antlers, and fallen leaves. She has become an avid bird-watcher, and spends her off-days exploring scenic drives and hikes, and all of the increasingly cosmopolitan restaurants and shops that nearby Jackson Hole has to offer.

“I love the wide open spaces,” she says. “There’s more sky than you have ever seen. Mountains suddenly emerge from the valley floor and the air smells of sagebrush and pine.”

The Housleys have become such figures in the local community that they joined the local volunteer fire brigade and get regular calls as first responders.

“The closest hospital that’s small and not very well-equipped is an hour away, and every vehicle accident that happens here is handled by firefighters. They’re the ones who do the extrication and stabilize the scene,” she says. “I had no idea what I signed up for when we started training. It’s been a very enriching thing, and a real challenge. We’re trained for wildfires and structure fires, but the majority of our calls are accidents, whether it’s heavy equipment, an ATV, or a car.”

Even with frigid, lonely winters and long days spent on the scene of accidents, the Housleys know that they’ve landed where they’re supposed to be.

“There’s so much to enjoy that’s right in front of you all the time,” says Housley, who credits her mother for showing her how to see “the magic in the really, really simple stuff.”

“I love finding something in nature that’s just sitting there waiting for you to enjoy it,” she says.

A mix of old and new furniture brings the Wyoming cabin to life.

“I love the wide-open spaces. There’s more sky than you have ever seen.”

28

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IDEAL

D AY

I N

WYOMING

CORAL & TUSK DESIGNER STEPHANIE HOUSLEY SHARES TOP PICKS FOR A WEEKEND GETAWAY.

Where to Stay

REST YOUR HEAD AT THESE LODGES.

Modern luxury abounds at Caldera House.

Good Eats Coelette Housed in a historic cabin in downtown Jackson, this restaurant brings together the best of snowline cuisine.

Think grilled turnip with lacto-shoyu cherries, and French toast and fro-yo for dessert.

COELETTE.COM Persephone The Coelette

owners are behind this James Beard semifinalist bakery serving up fresh breads and artisanal pastries. You can also dine in for mimosas and omelettes. PERSE­ PHONEBAKERY.COM Pica’s In addition to staples like tortas and enchiladas, this Mexican taqueria

WHERE TO SIP AND SAVOR also offers special plates like chicken mole and hanger steak. PICASTAQUE­ RIA.COM Picnic At the risk of sounding repetitive, we’re also including the sister location of Persephone. The muffins and scones are really that good.

PICNICJH.COM

Jackson Lake Lodge Located inside Grand Teton National Park, this eco-lodge offers rooms or full cottages, plus a lounge and restaurant with floor-to-ceiling glass for epic views.

GTLC.COM/LODGES/ JACKSON-LAKE-LODGE

30

Caldera House Chalets-style suites with multiple bedrooms are luxuriously appointed with fireplaces and modern furnishings at this boutique hotel in Teton Village, just outside the national park.

CALDERAHOUSE.COM

SUNSET • WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

The Cloudveil With guest rooms inspired by the surrounding natural beauty of Jackson Hole, this newly opened hotel is the perfect jumping-off point for exploring the nearby Tetons.

THECLOUDVEIL.COM

FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF CALDERA HOUSE; VISITJACKSONHOLE

Granite Hot Springs

Nab a handmade hat at JW Bennett.

Where to Shop JW Bennett These aren’t just hats for a Western lifestyle.

They’re handmade art that complete any outfit, with special touches like handstitched mountain logos. JWBENNETT.COM

Treats from Persephone bakery

Outdoor Adventures

Mountain Dandy Mustache wax meets hand-cast resin Champagne buckets at this Jackson Hole boutique outfitted with apothecary items and accessories, as well as home goods. MADEJACKSON­ HOLE.COM Skinny Skis Stop here in the winter and you’ll find boots, skis, poles, and more; summertime stock spans running shoes,

stove fuel, and anything else you might need for outdoor activities in the warmer weather.

SKINNYSKIS.COM Workshop This cozy, light-filled shop in Jackson features work from ceramicists, jewelers, and other artisans.

Think handcrafted belt buckles, earrings and pendants, and items in between.

WORKSHOPJH.COM

“EVERY SUMMER WE GO TO YELLOWSTONE, WHICH IS AN INCREDIBLE DRIVE,” HOUSLEY SAYS. “WE STAY A FEW DAYS SO WE CAN DRIVE THROUGH ALL ROADS IN THE PARK, AND HIKE AND LOOK FOR WILDLIFE.”

INSIDE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK

IN THE TETONS

FROM LEFT: LINDLEY RUST; SHIVYON MITCHELL

Habits From jewelry to outerwear, this Jackson boutique curates a selection of mountain-chic pieces from a variety of designers.

HABITSJH.COM

YOU MAY FIND HIDDEN TREASURES INSIDE THESE BOUTIQUES.

“The Grand Teton mountain range springs up from the earth and towers over pristine lakes and rivers,” says Housley. “You can hike to a glacial lake or spend time oohing and ahhing over the peaks from the valley floor. With over 200 miles of trails and the Snake River flowing through Grand Teton National Park, there is so much to see and do.”

“Your goal is to get in the thermal features: Old Faithful and Grand Prismatic. There are many smaller ones as well,” Housley says. “There is a newly opened short hike called Fairy Falls that goes up behind Grand Prismatic and offers spectacular views. If you can make it to the Great Fountain Geyser when it erupts, make it happen. It is awesome.”

Moose Entrance Visitor Center “Stop here to check on local conditions, and learn about day hikes.” NPS.GOV/GRTE

Firehole Canyon Drive “There are hot springs you can get in there, just one of two places to swim in all of Yellowstone.” The other, at Boiling River, can be accessed by Gardner River, near the North Entrance of the park.

Granite Hot Springs Located inside the Bridger-Teton National Forest, this developed pool is fed by natural hot springs near “hiking trails with opportunities to spot wildlife.” FS.USDA.GOV

Astoria Hot Springs “Just south of Jackson on the Snake River, these hot springs are another great place to relax” on conservancy land. ASTORIA­ HOTSPRINGSPARK.ORG Titcomb Basin “We plan to go on a multi-day backpacking camping trip here, in the Wind River Range, soon. It’s been on my list for years.”

Jenny Lake Inside the park, this lake is “beautiful. You can hike around it or take a boat and then hike into Cascade Canyon.” NPS.GOV/GRTE Jackson Lake Lodge “This is a great last pit stop before heading into Yellowstone. They have coffee, food, a gift shop, a superb view of Jackson Lake, and gas.” GTLC.COM

Artists Paintpots Be sure to check out this colorful set of natural wonders!

Canyon Village “This park lodging option offers a restaurant, small stores, gift shop, and gas. All of the lodging in Yellowstone varies slightly by location. All of them are run by the same group.” NPS.GOV Hayden Valley “The Grand Canyon of Yellowstone is not to be missed.” Be ready to run into some

wildlife. You could see a “herd of bison crossing in and out of the road.”

Lamar Valley This is “my personal favorite part of the park and amazing wildlife viewing. It is raw up there, with very little infrastructure at this end of the park.

Roosevelt Lodge is a great option for an overnight stay.”

WINTER IN THE WEST 2022 • SUNSET

31

W IN T ER GARDEN CHECKLIST What to do in your garden now—no matter where you are in the West.

Contributors: D EAN NA KIZ I S an d JO HAN NA S I LVE R

THOMAS J. STORY

YOUR

All Regions PLANT For a truly low-care houseplant,

grow canna lily, sweet flag (Acorus calamus), or umbrella plant (Cy-

perus alternifolius) in a waterproof container. Drop the nursery pot

into a container and keep the outer container filled with several

inches of water. Fertilize the plant

once a month, and rinse and refill the outer container every two

weeks to keep the water from becoming rancid.

Succulents and sedums are

easy to propagate from any pieces that break off from the parent

plant. Allow the leaf or segment to dry for a few days and then lay on

moistened perlite in bright, indirect light. When roots or new leaves

appear, transplant into a small pot

filled with a potting mix formulated for cactus and succulents.

M A I N TA I N To make fast work of winter

pruning, use good bypass pruners

(like Felco 2) on everything smaller than your thumb, and a hardened, tri-edged folding saw (like an 8.3inch Silky Gomboy with large teeth) on branches.

Fertilize established stone fruit

trees with a granular organic fruit

tree fertilizer. The label will tell you how much to use, based on tree size.

Reward yourself with a pat on

the back. Every triumph you had in your garden over the past year

should be celebrated, before you look to the year ahead.

Northwest PLANT

A subtropical flowering shrub that looks a bit like it came from outer space, protea (Protea cynaroides) was named by Swedish botanist Carl Linnaeus after Proteus, the Greek god who could change into a lion, serpent, leopard—even a tree. It makes sense: Resendiz Brothers Protea Growers in San Diego County, for one, grows more than 10 genera and 1,500 species, shapeshifters all. A few favorites are the aptly named, candy-floss-centered ‘Coastal Candy,’ the cherry-cola colored ‘Ceres,’ and the winter-blooming ‘Pristine.’ Because protea grow year-round, the farm is like an out-of-this-world super bloom.

To grow a lot of perennials for lit-

tle money, start them from seed

this month. Sow aster, delphinium, hellebore, Shasta daisy, or viola seed in a greenhouse or cold

frame, then transplant into your garden in April.

WINTER IN THE WEST 2022 • SUNSET

33

M A I N TA I N

well when nighttime temperatures

To remove a large branch, cut

drop to 50° to 60°.

through the bottom third of it, 12

Sow warm-season edibles in-

inches from the trunk; then saw it

doors for transplanting into your

off 2 inches beyond the first cut. Fi-

garden in May. For something new,

nally, cut the stub off just outside

try the Colorado Red Star arti-

the branch collar.

choke from Baker Creek Heirloom

Smother weeds and retain nutri-

Seeds. rareseeds.com

ents by top-dressing beds with a

M A I N TA I N

layer of leftover compost or other

Prune deciduous trees by re-

mulch.

moving branches that are dead,

PROTECT

cross through the middle of the

If your garden gets steady wind,

tree, or rub up against one anoth-

plant an evergreen windbreak at

er, along with any suckers growing

least 10 times as wide as it is tall. It

from the base.

can protect up to 30 feet of down-

Azalea, boxwood, holly, Oregon

wind land for each foot of its own

grape, and rhododendrons are

height.

prone to winter drought damage.

Snow makes the garden look like

Monitor throughout the winter and

a fairyland, but it also disfigures

soak thoroughly whenever the soil

woody plants. Sweep snow off

dries out.

branches right away and plants

To keep roots safe from frost,

should recover.

wind, and drought, replenish bare

Rocky Mountains

patches where organic and rock mulch have blown or washed

PLANT If tropical houseplants are strug-

gling when the thermostat is lower, try azalea, cyclamen, carnation, hydrangea, and lilies. All can do

away. Hay, leaves, and straw pro-

tect plants best when they’re 6 to 8 inches deep; keep bark and rock mulch 2 to 3 inches deep.

Northern California PLANT Browse nurseries for bare-root

berries, grapes, and roses. Once

you get them home, unwrap any plastic around the roots and put

the plants in a bucket, then cover

roots loosely with potting soil. Water enough to prevent soil from drying out until you’re ready to plant.

Refresh the vegetable garden by

sowing seeds of broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, and

mustard. Plant onion sets, which

look like small bulbs, just under soil surface so the point of the bulb is visible.

M A I N TA I N Sprinkle granular organic fertiliz-

er, according to package instructions, around the bases of estab-

lished fruit trees out to the canopy drip line. Rain will help the fertilizer percolate into the soil.

Pick up fallen camellia blossoms.

Leaving them at the base of the shrub encourages disease.

H A RV E S T Pick ripened citrus as you need

it. Leave unripe fruit to hang; it

won’t get sweeter once picked. Dry

out fruits you don’t intend to eat for a citrus garland or place them

among cut boughs for a festive holiday table or hearth.

Southern California PLANT Keep your veggie garden pro-

ducing by sowing seeds of kale,

leek, lettuce, mustard, green and bulb onion, parsley, pea, radish,

spinach, and Swiss chard. Inland, choose varieties that will with-

stand frost, including thick-leafed lettuce, flat-leaf parsley, and savoy spinach.

M A I N TA I N Divide and replant any over-

crowded perennials, including Agapanthus, chrysanthemums, and

daylilies. To reduce shock from the move, water plants before and after planting.

Winter rains can be unpredict-

able. If they’re light, continue to irrigate plants when the soil dries out. Also frequently check

Plant This Now

34

LOMANDRA ‘PLATINUM BEAUTY’

Lomandra may look like a grass, but it’s actually a perennial from Australia. This means it’s water-wise, and deer-, disease-, and pest-resistant.

Try pairing this variegated, whitestriped Lomandra with succulents for low-water landscaping, or plant it in coastal gardens; it’s salt-tolerant.

SUNSET • WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

ROSEMARY ‘CHEF’S CHOICE’

This new rosemary variety has a higher oil content and a spicier flavor profile. In spring, violet blue flowers attract pollinators. Rosemary grows well in container, and herb and kitchen gardens, and makes an excellent gift when tied with a bow, or placed in a pretty pot.

SENECIO ‘SKYSCRAPER’

A silvery succulent, Senecio is part of the daisy family; in late spring or early summer, it blooms with yellow flowers. Nevertheless, it’s the bluemeets-pewter shade that attracts most gardeners. Senecio is fastgrowing, water-wise, good for fire-scaping, and works as a houseplant, too.

SUNSET PLANT COLLECTION

DON’T HANG UP THAT TROWEL JUST YET. WHILE MANY GARDENERS TUCK THEIR BEDS IN FOR THE WINTER, THE SUNSET PLANT COLLECTION— SPECIFICALLY TAILORED FOR THE WESTERN GARDENER AND AVAILABLE AT GARDEN CENTERS THROUGHOUT THE WEST—FEATURES SEVERAL STUNNING PLANTS FOR THIS TIME OF YEAR. GO TO SUNSETWESTERNGARDENCOLLECTION. COM TO FIND A STORE NEAR YOU.

containers and plants growing un-

them up in cactus soil mix in small

reach to make sure they’re getting

in sunny windows. That way, you’ll

der eaves where rain doesn’t

enough water. If rains are ade-

quate, turn off the irrigation sys-

tem’s automatic controller (or in-

stall a rain shutoff to do it for you).

Southwest PLANT Boneset (Conoclinium greggii) is

the low-growing perennial for at-

tracting queen butterflies (Danaus gilippus) during the warm months.

Provide boneset with moderate ir-

rigation and cut back in late spring for best summer appearance.

If you have aloes with pups, pot

containers and put them indoors have some aloes that will bloom in early spring (and ready replacements for any outdoor

plants that may get damaged by frost).

M A I N TA I N To foster fresh growth, prune the

woody stems on herbs like oregano, rosemary, and thyme. You’ll thank yourself come spring.

Check drip irrigation systems for

leaks or kinks. Open the ends of

Gifts for Gardeners THEY SAY THE BEST GIFTS ARE THE ONES YOU WANT FOR YOURSELF; BUT THESE GIFTS ARE SO GOOD YOU JUST MIGHT DECIDE TO LEAVE THIS PAGE OPEN WITH A NOTE: “GET THE HINT?”

1. INSTANT HEIRLOOMS This limited-edition walnut

garden tool set, hand-forged

by Fisher Blacksmithing in

Bozeman, Montana, is almost too pretty for puttering, but

2

strong enough to do the job.

FROM $216; FISHERBLACKSMITH­

drip lines and run the system for a

ING.COM

regulating auto-flush valves.

2. INSTANT HOME BLOOMS

few minutes to flush or install self-

1

This extravagant (and

extremely cool) Blooming DIY Garden Bed Kit from Rolling

Greens Nursery comes with a planter box, six 4-inch plants, a trowel, soil, and instructions. FROM $300;

RGHOMEANDGARDEN.COM. SIZES AND PLANTS VARY.

3. WORK SOME MAGIC

3

... with these vegetable-dyed classic work gloves of premium grain cowhide from

Barebones Living. The color options are stylish, too. $22; BAREBONESLIVING.COM

4. COP TO IT This timeless 2.5-pint copper watering can will gleam

beautifully under any tree.

Over time, it will acquire a

rich, blue-green patina. $158; SHOPTERRAIN.COM

Door Décor For a fresh take on your holiday entryway, each handmade

protea wreath from Resendiz Brothers Protea Growers is picked to order and one of a kind. Arrangements often feature protea

with its charming cousins, pincushion (Leucospermum), GrevilWREATH: THOMAS J. STORY

lea (pincushion’s floppy friend), Banksia (best described as

brilliantly sea-sponge-esque), and eucalyptus foliage. Meanwhile, the approximately 300-million-year-old flowers—which only thrive in harsh conditions—represent resilience and

strength. What better choice than a protea wreath to symboli-

cally ring out 2021, and welcome 2022? $100 AND UP;

RESENDIZBROTHERS.COM; SHIPPING AVAILABLE; STYLES MAY VARY.

5. DON’T FORCE IT Or do. If you can’t think of the perfect gift, a curated ama-

ryllis bulb from Plantgem will

do the trick. Expect each bulb to produce two to three

stalks with multiple blooms. $24; PLANTGEM.COM

5

4

B RI N G I N G TH E

GAM E WITH ITS PURE FORM, TIDY CONSTRUCTION, AND SMALL FOOTPRINT, THE A-FRAME ENDURES AS AMERICA’S FAVORITE WEEKEND HIDEOUT. JO ANN THRAILKILL’S WHITE-AND-PINK “LITTLE APPLE” CABIN NEAR LAKE ARROWHEAD IS EVIDENCE THAT ITS VERSATILE CHARM MAY NEVER GO OUT OF STYLE. Story by

Page No.

Photographs by

CH RI STI N E LE N N O N

37

TH O MAS J. STO RY

funny to think that a house seemingly custom-created for the Instagram age is one of the most primitive man-made structures. The simple, photogenic, triangular shape of an A-frame looks like it was invented to live perfectly inside the square tile of a social media post.

“It’s like the tent emoji of houses,” says architect Eliza Howard, a principal at THinc in Los Angeles. “It has a total economy to it, because the triangle is such a stable structural form. It’s economical and efficient in its structure.

The walls and the roof are the same thing. You have fewer structural elements that have to connect and bear on one another, and there’s a purity to the form. You see them in the mountains because the pitched roof can handle the snow load. It’s just smart design.”

Anyone who’s escaped to the mountains of the West, from Big Bear north through the Rockies and into the Cascades, is familiar with these simple woodland huts, with their high ceilings, loft bedrooms, and windows on two sides. Its form was derived from ancient roof huts that were first built by early civilizations in China, the Pacific Islands, and Europe.

The first contemporary A-frame in the United States was built in 1934 near Lake Arrowhead by legendary architect Rudolph Michael Schindler for Gisela Bennati. Bennati, his fellow Austrian, was an artist and teacher based in Los Angeles, and her house still stands as a local landmark today. But the popularity of these rustic cabins didn’t hit full stride until the 1950s, with the subsequent explosion of the middle class. More Americans were searching for affordable weekend retreats, and the A-frame was inexpensive and easy to build.

“Many of these were built from kits,” explains Howard, who grew up around A-frames in Colorado and sees them regularly on annual trips to see family in Vermont. “You didn’t need an architect to design it. Structurally, they just work and don’t need to be engineered.”

38

SUNSET • WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

“You have fewer structural elements that have to bear on one another, and there’s a purity to the form. You see them in the mountains because the pitched roof can handle the snow load. It’s just smart design.”

A-frames have come in and out of style over the subsequent decades, but the tiny house movement of the early 2000s and the pandemic-inspired wanderlust and nature quest of the last couple of years has fueled interest. Leah Bopf, the creator of the “A-Frame Dreams” Instagram account and real estate finder site, which tracks current Aframes for sale across the country, saw her social media following increase from 10,000 to 110,000 last year.

“They’re not as affordable as they used to be, but I can still find the occasional A-frame for under $100,000,” Bopf says. “Not in California, of course.”

When Jo Ann Thrailkill was looking to invest in a cute weekend home and vacation rental near a lake that wasn’t far from her home base in L.A., she headed to Lake Arrowhead on the advice of a friend—well before the retreat-tothe-wilderness housing boom of 2020 was underway.

When she found the semi-abandoned A-frame that she has since dubbed “Little Apple,” in a nod to the fruit trees on the property in nearby Running Springs, just 5 miles from a local ski run, she caught the A-frame bug.

“I was cycling through the San Bernardino Mountains with my friend Sasha,” a real state agent, Thrailkill says, “and I spotted all of these cute cabins, which seemed so fun and doable.”

The original owner of the 1959 house on a quarter-acre lot, sited pleasingly on a knoll with some mature trees, was the maître d’ of the famed Brown Derby restaurant in Hollywood. He sold it after 20 years to another family, which had it for 30. But it had been mostly abandoned for the better part of a decade. Thrailkill got the keys in October and started a slow-paced, thoughtful remodel in December, figuring out how to take advantage of the limited square footage and maintain the original footprint without any major alterations. As an experienced Airbnb host with a house in New Orleans, she knew that a photogenic interior was critical to a property’s success. She landed on a bright color palette of pure white and pale pink, with deeper pink accents like a vintage Moroccan rug, and furniture with an eclectic-vintage flair. She upgraded the kitchen with smallformat European appliances, installed IKEA cabinets with Semihandmade fronts and brass hardware, and covered the walls and floors with white paint. Then she put the proverbial cherry on top: a baby pink front door.

Part of the lure of the A-frame is its extreme adaptability. The design can skew vintage rustic, poppy and mod, cottage-y, country, classic ski chalet, ’70s bohemian, or minimal.

“As long as you don’t tinker with the form too much, and just resign to embrace that iconic shape, you’re fine,” Howard says. “It doesn’t work if you try to adjust the interior layout to be anything other than a pitched roof with a second-floor sleeping area.”

Just tap a hashtag, or dive deep into Pinterest, and discover the possibilities.

“Instagram has been very kind to Little Apple,” Thrailkill says. “I wasn’t an A-frame fanatic at all until I started looking at cabins. But once I started noticing them, I was in.”

Jo Ann Thrailkill upgraded the kitchen with small-format European appliances and installed IKEA cabinets with Semihandmade fronts and brass hardware.

She landed on a bright color palette of pure white and pale pink, with deeper pink accents throughout the interior of the Running Springs A-frame.

WINTER IN THE WEST 2022 • SUNSET

41

A deep pink Moroccan rug adds depth to the chalet’s pure white walls and floors, and pairs well with furniture that is both vintage and eclectic.

You can rent the Little Apple A-Frame on Airbnb. Your stay includes a curated selection of puzzles, poufs, and art.

WINTER IN THE WEST 2022 • SUNSET

43

The chalet sits on a quarter-acre lot, sited pleasingly on a knoll with mature trees. Just 5 miles from a local ski run, it’s an ideal winter or holiday getaway.

2 The A-frame’s dramatically sloped roof could tolerate heavy loads of snow and made for a perfect picture, as evidenced by the cover of this issue of Sunset from 1957 (and the one you’re holding now).

A-Frame A to Z

1

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: THOMAS J. STORY (2); @LECKIESTUDIO

A 1957 issue of Sunset broke down the various styles of A-frames cropping up around the West.

3

In 1934 Rudolph Schindler designed what is now recognized as the first A-frame, a Lake Arrowhead vacation home that simplified and modernized the Normanstyle architecture required by the housing tract his client lived in. But it was San Francisco architecture firm Campbell & Wong’s 1952 Leisure House that caught the country’s imagination and proliferated in the prosperous postwar years. Here’s a quick tour of the evolution of our favorite alphabetical architectural style.

Despite its snowy origins, the A-frame found its way into any number of climates. This 2017 Palm Springs example looks right at home surrounded by cactuses.

5

4

The Backcountry Hut Co.’s System 00 A-frame is designed to be self-assembled by four to five people in under a week. thebackcountryhutcompany. com

Jason and Laura O’Dell’s handsome, black Big Bear A-frame remodel graced the pages of Sunset in 2017 and set a high bar for Instagrammable vacation rentals.

WINTER IN THE WEST 2022 • SUNSET

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WT: XXX PF: XX ZO: XX

page

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‘Tis the Season!

Sunset aficionados will appreciate our collection of vintage covers on greeting cards, totes, puzzles, coffee mugs, and more. Visit shop.sunset.com to see the ever-expanding line of unique items. shop.sunset.com

SUNSET_HOUSE_ADS_SHOP_HOLIDAY_2021_SK_V3.indd 78 Sunset Page Template.indd 1

8/9/21 7:25 AM 8/16/21 12:08 PM

FOOD

&

DRINK

Healthy for the Holidays

Gluten-free, plant-based, and just sweet enough, desserts from Edgar Castrejón’s new vegan Mexican cookbook are sure to please.

Photographs by E D GAR CASTREJÓ N

WINTER IN THE WEST 2022 • SUNSET

47

efore he made a name for himself as a vegan author, food stylist, and photographer, Edgar Castrejón grew up in Oakland eating savory meat stews, seafood ceviche, and chicken dishes, immersed in the flavors and culinary traditions of his MexicanAmerican family. But in college he adopted a fully vegan diet for both philosophical and health reasons. As he writes in his excellent new cookbook, Provecho: 100 Vegan Mexican Recipes to Celebrate Culture and Community: “That’s when I really set out to veganize the foods I grew up eating. However, I didn’t want to call foods out for being vegan. I just wanted to make tasty food that happens to be plant-based.” And so began a culinary journey to “create vegan versions of generations-old recipes, without sacrificing the authentic Mexican flavors that my family expected and held dear.”

Provecho is a prime example of how to subtly tweak tried-and-true Mexican favorites into satisfying plant-based dishes that together read like

f

ro

a litany of Latin American deliciousness: from hearty tofu and jackfruit posole, in both red and green forms, to nutty punchy pipián that can ennoble a simple bowl of Spanish rice, to saffrontinged masa-and-flour Colombian empanadas stuffed with Yukon Gold potatoes, studded with garlic and topped with bright pico de gallo.

These dishes and others preserve the flavors of their foundational recipes but adopt ingredients not typically found in the Mexican larder.

That includes jackfruit, the tropical fruit you can braise until it breaks down and can be shredded into tender strands like a slow-cooked chicken or pulled pork; vegan cheese with all the sharp taste and creaminess of cheddar; and aquafaba, chickpea broth that whips up fluffy like egg whites. Castrejón brings all the richness of meat and dairy in a full plant-based fashion.

While the savory recipes sing, the book also includes a chapter devoted to inspiring vegan desserts, from no-bake vegan cheesecake to apple empanadas. As we head into the holidays, we’ve excerpted a few sweet treats for you to bake and gift or keep on hand to celebrate with family and friends—no dairy or gluten required.

m pa ge 47

Galletas de Almendras “Whenever I think about these almond cookies, I think of my Aunt Chely. Galletas de almendras were a fixture at the start of Advent (the weeks leading up to Christmas), and I recall waking up during that time to the aroma of her crushing almonds in the kitchen. This was the only thing that she’d let me help her with, and she’s the reason I love baking. My gluten-free version here is a tribute to her original recipe. It’s not just the memories that put me in the holiday mood. The powdered sugar on top of the cookies evokes snowy winters.

Now, I dust confectioners’ sugar through my grandma’s doilies to make patterns on the cookies. She crocheted them for me to use on my future dining table. That touch makes them extra-special, but the cookies are still pretty without the doily patterns.” M A K E S 1 4 T O 1 6 C O O K I E S 1 cup whole dry-roasted almonds

2 cups gluten-free all-purpose flour

(such as Bob’s Red Mill), plus more for dusting

2 tsp. ground cinnamon 1 tsp. baking soda

1 tsp. baking powder 1 pinch fine sea salt 1 cup cane sugar

½ cup coconut oil, melted and cooled, or vegan butter, at room temperature

¼ cup unsweetened plant-based milk, at room temperature

Confectioners’ sugar for dusting

48

SUNSET • WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

1. Place the almonds in a high-pow-

ered blender or food processor and pulse until slightly irregular pieces,

double the size of rice grains, form.

(Alternatively, chop finely with a

knife.) Transfer to a large bowl, then, using a fine-mesh sieve, sift in the

flour, cinnamon, baking soda, baking powder, and salt.

2. In a medium bowl, combine the

cane sugar and coconut oil and

beat with a fork until blended thoroughly. Add the plant-based milk

and beat until the ingredients are

uniformly combined. Transfer to the

large bowl and use a spoon to mix

into the dry ingredients until evenly combined and doughy enough to knead with clean hands.

3. Form the dough into one large ball, then place in a bowl or container, cover, and refrigerate at least

6 hours (or up to overnight, for best results).

4. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two

baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats.

5. Remove the dough ball from the refrigerator and let it come to room

temperature, about 30 minutes. Dust a work surface with flour and then roll out the dough to about ½-inch

thick. Using a 4-inch cookie cutter or a cup, stamp out rounds from the

dough and transfer to the prepared baking sheets. Reroll the scraps of dough to stamp out more rounds.

6. Bake the cookies until lightly

browned around the edges, about 12 minutes.

7. Remove cookies from the baking

sheets and transfer to a wire rack. Let cool completely, then dust with confectioners’ sugar.

8. Store the cookies in an airtight con-

tainer at room temperature for up to 8 days.

Galletas de Jengibre “One of my favorite treats from Mexican pastry shops is marranitos, little gingerbread pigs. My gluten-free ginger cookies are based on marranitos, except these are round and not shaped like pigs. They’re flaky outside, chewy inside, and not too sweet. I found that adding a little apple cider vinegar helps make the cookies taste sweet without adding more sugar.” M A K E S 1 6 T O 1 8 C O O K I E S

TIP:

If you have whole flaxseed, yo u can grind it in a blender into a fine po wder, then measu re out 2 Tbsp.

¼ cup water

2 Tbsp. ground flaxseed (see Tip above) 1 3 4 cups plus 1 Tbsp. gluten-free all-purpose flour

1 cup cane sugar

1 tsp. ground cinnamon 1 tsp. ground cloves 1 tsp. baking soda

¼ tsp. fine sea salt

2–3 Tbsp. finely chopped peeled ginger (depending on taste preference)

1

3

cup plus 1 Tbsp. vegan butter, at room

temperature, plus more for greasing (optional)

¼ cup agave nectar

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

1 tsp. apple cider vinegar

1. In a small cup or bowl, stir together

the water and ground flaxseed and

let sit until gelatinous, about 10 minutes; this will be the flax “eggs.”

2. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, cinnamon, cloves,

baking soda, and salt, and whisk together. In a medium bowl, combine

the ginger, vegan butter, agave nec-

tar, vanilla, and vinegar, and whisk together. Add the flax “eggs” to the wet ingredients and whisk together well.

Pour into the dry ingredients and stir together with a wooden spoon. Refrigerate for 1 hour.

3. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Grease two baking sheets with vegan butter or line with parchment paper.

4. Remove the chilled dough from the refrigerator. Using a 2-Tbsp. scoop,

scoop the dough onto the prepared

baking sheets, leaving enough space for the cookies to spread out as they bake. You should have eight or nine

cookies on each sheet. Slightly flatten each mound to about 1½ inches in diameter.

5. Bake the cookies until they have risen a bit and crackled on top, about 15

minutes. Remove them from the bak-

ing sheets and transfer to a wire rack.

Let cool completely.

6. Store the cookies in an airtight con-

tainer at room temperature for up to 8 days.

WINTER IN THE WEST 2022 • SUNSET

49

TIP:

If using a 9-inch Bundt pa n, the baking tim e will be 50 to 55 minutes .

Coconut oil for greasing ¼ cup water

2 Tbsp. chia seeds

½ cup unsweetened almond milk

2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar or lemon juice

1 cup thick vegan yogurt ½ cup agave nectar

1 tsp. vanilla paste or extract 1½ cups oat flour

1½ cups almond flour 1 tsp. baking soda

½ tsp. fine sea salt

Vegan frosting for topping

Crushed freeze-dried raspberries for topping (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease

four 4-inch Bundt pans with coconut oil. (Alternatively, grease one 9-inch

Bundt pan; see Tip above.) Set aside.

2. In a large bowl, stir together the water and chia seeds and let sit until

gelatinous, about 10 minutes; this will be the chia “eggs.” Meanwhile, in a liquid measuring cup, stir together

almond milk and vinegar and let sit for 10 minutes. (By the time the chia

“eggs” are ready, this will be ready as well.)

Pastelitos

3. Pour the almond milk mixture into

“I made these cakes as mini Bundts so you can have them anytime, with just a few people or even by yourself. I also took care to make them diabetes-friendly.

I get sad when I see some of my relatives unable to partake in desserts. I want everyone to still be able to indulge in something sweet, so I had them in mind when choosing the ingredients for this recipe. For example, the oat and almond flours have more protein and fiber than wheat flour. Both aspects can slow the absorption of sugar and help improve blood sugar levels for those with type 2 diabetes.” M A K E S 4 M I N I B U N D T CA K E S

the chia “eggs”; add the yogurt,

agave nectar, and vanilla; and whisk together. Sift in both flours, the bak-

ing soda, and salt, and stir together, just until well combined. Divide the

batter equally among the prepared pans.

4. Bake the cakes until the tops are

browned and a toothpick inserted

close to the center comes out clean, 35–40 minutes. Remove from the

oven and let cool in the pans for 15 minutes. Invert each pan onto a

For more recipes, pick up Provecho: 100 Vegan Mexican Recipes to Celebrate Culture and Community. $40, PENGUINRANDOMHOUSE.COM

plate and tap gently to dislodge the

cake. (At this point, you can store the cakes in an airtight container at

room temperature for up to 7 days.)

5. Serve the cakes topped with vegan frosting and freeze-dried raspberries, if desired.

50

SUNSET • WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM PROVECHO: 100 VEGAN MEXICAN RECIPES TO CELEBRATE CULTURE AND COMMUNITY

BY EDGAR CASTREJÓN, COPYRIGHT © 2021. PUBLISHED BY TEN SPEED PRESS, AN IMPRINT OF PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE.

51_Sunset_Burdge Home_51.indd 1

10/10/21 9:55 PM

IT ’S A

P H A M I L Y AFFAIR THE FIRST FAMILY OF ARTISANAL VIETNAMESE FOOD CELEBRATES THE HOLIDAYS WITH A MULTICOURSE FEAST OF VIBRANT DISHES SPIKED WITH THEIR SIGNATURE UMAMI-PACKED FISH SAUCE. Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

Chef Diep Tran joins Tiffany, Ann, Cuong, Tracy, and Kevin Pham, along with author Tien Nguyen to celebrate the holidays at the Phams’ Napa Valley home.

WINTER IN THE WEST 2022 • SUNSET

53

C

Cuong Pham uncorks a split of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon he bought at auction and pours a glass for his son, Kevin. They toast, swirl, and sip, assessing the glycerin levels, the color, the aroma. Cuong’s wife, Ann, and daughters Tracy and Tiffany join in the tasting and nod in approval.

The family knows a thing or two about barrel-aged artisanal products: They own and run Red Boat Fish Sauce, the world’s premiere manufacturer of the essential Vietnamese condiment.

It’s a clear day here on Napa Valley’s Silverado Trail, and Cuong and the Pham family have gathered on the patio to celebrate any number of occasions worth toasting: It’s the tenth anniversary of the launch of Red Boat, Cuong and his wife, Ann, just purchased this sprawling brick traditional on a hill ringed with oaks and boasting sweeping views of Napa Valley, and Cuong is about to embark on a new venture as a budding winemaker, the third career for this Apple engineer turned food legend.

“Fish sauce and wine have a lot in common,” says

54

SUNSET • WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

Cuong. Not only are they both artisanal products that are aged in barrels, Cuong also points out that “they both are heavily influenced by terroir.”

The terroir of Red Boat fish sauce is Vietnam’s Phú Quốc island and its surrounding waters, where the best black anchovies swim and where Cuong’s barrel house ages and ferments the product that helped bring the family to this celebratory moment.

While Red Boat was once the go-to secret ingredient for cooks and chefs who used it to boost the flavor of marinades, sauces, dips, and more, now it’s on the shelves of just about every grocery store in the U.S. And it only exists because Cuong missed the taste of home. Specifically the fish sauce he’d grown up with in Saigon, a briny concoction that gives umami-packed depth of flavor to countless dishes in the Vietnamese culinary repertoire, from the versatile saltysweet dipping sauce nước chấm to caramelized lemongrass pork chops to rice noodle salads scattered with herbs.

And, of course, today Red Boat is showing up in the dishes of the feast cooked by Diep Tran, the Los Angeles– based chef behind the lauded but now closed Good Girl Dinette. Tran is now Red Boat’s development chef and co-author of the forthcoming The Red Boat Fish Sauce Cookbook: Beloved Recipes from the Family Behind the Purest Fish Sauce, a compendium of new and classic Vietnamese recipes that serves as a master class in fish sauce cookery. All of the dishes served today are from the cookbook, so the affair is as much a book launch party as it is a holiday feast. In the kitchen, Diep is joined by co-author Tien Nguyen and various members of the family as the afternoon unfolds. Scallions are sizzled in oil, shrimp paste is packed around sugarcane to be grilled, a savory-salty-sour cocktail of fermented Meyer lemon and vodka is mixed, and the table is set. The centerpiece is a show-stopping turkey that Diep has been cooking since her days at Good Girl: It’s been brined in a marinade of ground coriander, fresh ginger, sugar, and, yes, fish sauce, then spatchcocked to roast evenly until gloriously bronzed and lacquered. It’s without a doubt the best roast turkey we’ve tasted in years.

Read on for celebratory recipes—and the stories behind them—from the Pham repertoire. Whether they’re classic or brand new, one and all they’re fresh, vibrant, and guaranteed to become instant classics at your holiday feast.

GUTTER CREDIT

Ann and Cuong Pham relax on the patio.

CHAO TÔM

15 –20 times, then test if the paste is ready.

sugarcane, leaving about ½-inch on each

SHRIMP SKEWERS

ball; if the paste holds the shape without flat-

tening on the bottom, it’s ready. If not, pulse a

onto the sugarcane. Apply a coat of oil onto

M A K E S A B O U T 2 0 S U GA R CA N E

Cuong’s sister’s place has long been the spot where the entire Phamily

would come together to catch up, especially during summers when the kids were out on vacation and the

daylight stretched long into the evening. Cooking and eating, of course,

Take 2 Tbsp. shrimp paste and form it into a

few more times and re-test, being sure not to overprocess, or it will fall apart and become mealy. Cover the shrimp paste and place in the fridge to firm up for 1 hour.

2. If grilling, place your grill over low coals or

preheat the grill to medium. If baking, preheat the oven to 350°F. If cooking on a

stovetop, oil a cast-iron pan and set it aside.

were a huge part of these gatherings,

3. To shape the shrimp paste, first dip your fin-

all, sizzling with skewers of these bun-

prevent the paste from sticking. Pinch off

and the grill stayed hot throughout it dles of chao tôm, shrimp freshly ground into a savory paste and

wrapped around sweet sugarcane

stalks. If you are fortunate enough to have fresh sugarcane at your local

farmers’ market, pick up a few stalks and make good use of them in this

recipe. Otherwise, canned sugarcane is widely available at Asian grocers

and will work just fine. The chao tôm

are great snacks to nosh on, especially when dunked into n

c ch m. You can

also slide the shrimp into moistened

rice paper wrappers, or serve them as part of a rice noodle bowl.

FOR THE SHRIMP 1¼ lbs. shrimp, peeled, deveined, and patted dry

2 scallions, white ends only ¼ cup minced garlic

2 Tbsp. toasted rice powder 2 Tbsp. minced shallots 2 tsp. granulated sugar

2 tsp. Red Boat fish sauce

½ Tbsp. vegetable oil, plus a small bowl of oil for shaping

½ tsp. ground white pepper

1 20-oz. can sugarcane, drained,

quartered, and cut into 4-inch sticks, or 2 stalks cut into 4-inch sticks

FOR SERVING 1 head lettuce, such as Bibb or Red Oak 1 bunch mint

1 bunch Thai basil 1 bunch cilantro N

c ch m

Rice noodles or rice paper wrappers (optional)

1. Add the shrimp, scallions, garlic,

toasted rice powder, shallots, sugar, fish sauce, oil, and white pepper to the bowl of a food processor. Pulse

gers in the bowl of oil and coat your hands to about 2 Tbsp. shrimp paste and flatten it

onto your palm. Place a sugarcane in the

middle of the paste and close your palm to wrap the paste around the sugarcane. The shrimp paste should cover most of the

end. Pinch the ends of the paste to seal it

each sugarcane shrimp. Repeat for the remaining shrimp paste.

4. If grilling: Grill the shrimp 10–15 minutes, rotating the stalk every 3 minutes to ensure even cooking.

If baking: Place the shrimp on a baking sheet and bake for 10 minutes, rotating the shrimp and the pan after 5 minutes.

If cooking on the stovetop: Place the well-

oiled cast-iron skillet over medium heat and cook for 8–10 minutes, rotating the shrimp every 3 minutes.

5. To serve, place the shrimp on a serving platter and set on the table along with the lettuce, herbs, peanut-coconut n

c ch m for

dipping, and, if using, rice noodles or rice wrappers.

30 minutes, then remove the roast-

ing pan from the oven and place on

STICKY RICE

a cooling rack to cool.

5. Line a large plate with paper towels.

Slice the Chinese sausage thinly on

a bias. In a medium pan over medium heat, pan-fry the sausage (the

SE RVES 4 TO 6

fat will render out, so there’s no need to add any oil to the pan). Stir the

No matter the holiday or special occa-

2 cups fried shallots, store-bought or

of the feast. These days, of course,

1 cup thit chà bông (also known as

sion, sticky rice is always, always part

satchels of glutinous rice can be found at most markets, and a rice cooker

with a sticky or sweet rice setting will

cook the rice in no time. Here’s one of the Pham family’s favorite versions, where Chinese sausage (lap x

ng),

and fluffy-salty-sweet pork floss are

gently folded into the sticky rice, then

the rice in the bowl and rinse several times until the water runs clear. Add 1

3

cup water and cook the rice using

ing a steamer basket: Rinse the rice clear. Line the bottom of a steamer

basket with a clean cloth, like a bandanna, then spread the rice in one

even layer on the cloth. Add 1 3 cup of

4 skin-on boneless chicken thighs

water to a pot, top with the basket,

1 tsp. Red Boat fish sauce or ¼ tsp. Red

occasionally to fluff up the rice, for

2 Tbsp. olive oil, divided

Boat Salt or kosher salt

¼ tsp. ground black pepper ¼ pound Chinese sausage

¼ cup minced shallot or 1 3 cup minced white onion

1 tsp. Maggi seasoning sauce

2 Tbsp. Red Boat Scallion Oil, plus additional for serving

(see recipe on page 58)

56

pan clean, then place the pan over medium heat. Add 1 Tbsp. olive oil,

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 2. If you are using a rice cooker: Place

several times until the water runs

drained

the paper-towel-lined plate to drain.

6. Use another paper towel to wipe the

optional

day, from breakfast to lunch to dinner,

2 cups sweet rice, soaked 2 hours, then

brown the sausages. Transfer onto

ruoc, rousong, and pork floss),

the sweet rice setting. If you are us-

or as a snack in between.

slightly, about 5 minutes. Do not

homemade

finished with a shower of fried shallots.

We can eat this sticky rice any time of

slices, just until they begin to curl

and steam the rice, covered, stirring 1 hour.

3. Place chicken thighs in a roasting pan with 1 Tbsp. of oil. Coat the

chicken with the oil, then season with fish sauce (or Red Boat Salt) and

black pepper. Marinate the chicken for at least 15 minutes and up to 8 hours in the fridge.

4. Position the thighs skin-side up. Bake

SUNSET • WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

then the shallots or onions. Cook until lightly browned, about 8 minutes,

TIP You can also use chicken stock, preferably homemade, instead of water to cook the rice.

then remove from the pan and set aside.

7. When the chicken is cool enough

to handle, transfer it to a bowl, leaving the drippings in the pan. Shred

the thighs using a fork or your hands and set aside. Add the Maggi to the pan drippings.

8. When the rice finishes cooking,

sprinkle the drippings onto the rice and mix it well to coat the grains.

Add the shredded chicken, Chinese sausage, and sautéed shallots (or

onions), and mix gently to incorporate the ingredients.

9. Transfer the sticky rice to a serving platter, drizzle with 2 Tbsp. scallion

oil, then top with fried shallots and, if using, pork floss. Serve hot or at

room temperature, along with extra scallion oil for guests to add as they wish.

SALTED MEYER LEMON COCKTAIL SE RVES 1

This cocktail is a boozy take on the beloved soda chanh muôi, the salted lemonade soda found at restaurants, bakeries, and street stalls throughout Vietnam. Leave out the vodka for a refreshing drink any time of year.

Salting and preserving the lemons takes three months, but that investment of time is worth it; once made, they’ll last indefinitely. ¼ cup Salted Meyer Lemons (recipe below)

3 Tbsp. granulated sugar 1 oz. vodka

1 cup club soda

1. Add salted lemons, along with their juices, to a large glass. Add the sugar.

2. Use a pestle or spoon to muddle the lemon and sugar until the sugar dissolves.

3. Add vodka, ice cubes, and club soda.

Stir to combine. Serve immediately.

Tracy Pham pours vibrant Meyer lemon cocktails.

Salted Meyer Lemons M A K E S 1 Q UA R T Meyer lemons made their way to the United States from Beijing, and we love them because they are more flavorful than most of the more common, thickerskinned Eureka lemons. With less pith than Eurekas, they’re also less bitter and smoother on the palate. Here, the Pham family preserves the lemons in a brine that includes Red Boat Salt and chilies (the chilies introduce more warmth than spice and provide a nice counterpoint to the sweettart lemons). Although not necessary, the addition of citric acid helps the lemons attain a jelly-like chew that many saltedlemon aficionados adore.

1¼ lbs. Meyer lemons ½ lb. coarse sea salt ¼ cup Red Boat Salt or kosher salt Pinch citric acid (optional) 1 Tbsp. finely minced Thai chilies 5 grams sliced licorice root (optional) 1. Wash and dry the Meyer lemons in a colander, then transfer to a large mixing bowl. Add the coarse salt.

2. Using your hands, rub the sea salt against the lemons.

The coarse salt will act as a gentle abrasive on the lemons, removing the bitter essential oils from the skin.

Scrub the lemons 30 minutes.

At the end, the salt should take on a faint yellow tinge, indicating that the essential oils have been extracted from the lemon peels.

3. Transfer lemons to a colander. Rinse under running water and rub away any large salt granules, then transfer them to a large bowl of clean water. Set the lemons aside 10 minutes to remove any residual salt, then place them back into the colander and set them aside to dry completely.

4. While the lemons are drying, prepare a brine: Combine the

Red Boat Salt and ¾ cup water in a pot. Bring the brine to a boil, then remove the pot from the heat. Let the brine cool completely. Once the brine is cool, stir in a pinch of citric acid, if using.

5. Once the lemons are dry, pack them into a quart jar.

Add the minced chilies and, optionally, the licorice root.

6. Pour the cooled brine into the jar. Place a tiny dish or ramekin inside the jar to keep the lemons submerged in the brine.

7. Cover and set aside in a cool place for at least 3 months before using.

WINTER IN THE WEST 2022 • SUNSET

57

Red Boat Scallion Oil M A K E S 1¾ CUPS This oil is an ideal condiment to use on almost everything: Brush the oil on pork chops, try it with grilled fish. It’s also great drizzled over a simple bowl of steamed rice.

When you’re shopping for scallions to make this recipe, choose a bunch with long green tops, which are sweeter than the pungent white root ends. To store, place the oil in an airtight container and store in the fridge for up to two weeks.

1 cup thinly sliced scallions, green and white parts 1 Tbsp. Red Boat fish sauce ½ tsp. granulated sugar 1 3 cup grapeseed, canola, vegetable, or other neutral oil

BLISTERED VEGETABLES WITH SCALLION OIL SE RVES 6-8

Blistered vegetables were a hit at

4 ears corn, shucked and cut into

overcrowding. Cook 5–7 min-

in part because grilling vegetables

½ lb. cauliflower

to blister and caramelize, then

caramelize. Dousing super fresh

½ lb. summer squash

Diep’s restaurant Good Girl Dinette, causes their natural sugars to

produce in fish-sauce-infused

scallion oil will make an appetizer

that is crunchy, sweet, and salty all

at the same time. You can use these techniques to blister pretty much any vegetable in your garden.

58

3-inch segments if desired

½ lb. green beans

Red Boat Scallion Oil

(see recipe at right)

1. Heat a grill to medium high.

2. Add the corn cobs, working in

batches if necessary to avoid

SUNSET • WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

utes, just until the kernels start

carefully transfer the corn onto a wire-rack-lined baking

sheet. Repeat with the remaining corn, cauliflower, green beans and squash.

3. Transfer all the blistered vege-

tables to a platter and top with plenty of scallion oil to serve.

1. Place the scallions in a heatproof pint jar, then add fish sauce and sugar.

2. In a small saucepan over medium heat, bring the oil to 180°F, which should take about 3 minutes.

3. Carefully pour the hot oil directly over the scallions.

The scallions should sizzle once the oil is added.

4. Stir to combine all the ingredients. The scallion oil is now ready to use.

VIETNAMESE SALT–PICKLED DAIKON AND CARROTS M A K E S A B O U T 1 Q UA R T

Red Boat Salt adds a layer of complexity to this classic Vietnamese pickle of carrots and daikon. If you don’t happen to have any in your pantry, you

can, of course, use kosher salt instead.

Whichever salt you use, make a big batch. This is, after all, a universal

pickle: It goes well with most every-

thing. Covered and stored in the fridge, it will last up to 2 weeks.

1

3

cup granulated sugar

¼ cup plus 3 Tbsp. white vinegar

2½ tsp. Red Boat Salt or kosher salt 2

3

lb. daikon, peeled and sliced into

4-inch-long ribbons

¼ lb. carrots, peeled and sliced into 4-inch-long matchsticks

¼ lb. onions, thinly sliced

1. In a medium saucepan, combine

sugar, vinegar, 1 3 cup water, and salt.

Bring the brine to a boil, then take the pot off the heat and let cool 10 minutes.

2. After 10 minutes, add the vegetables into the slightly cooled brine. The

daikon and carrots will start to soften within 5 minutes; at that point, gently mix the vegetables.

3. Transfer the vegetables and their

brine into a jar. The pickles are ready to eat in an hour, but the flavor will improve the longer they sit.

All-Purpose Nuôc Châm for One (or 40) Sometimes you need to make just enough dipping sauce for one, sometimes you need to make it for a big party. In that case, the fail-safe way to make this is to rely on ratios rather than specific measurements for the ingredients. Whether you’re measuring with a spoon or a teacup, the following can be your guide.

7 parts granulated sugar Smashed garlic to taste Chopped Thai chilies to taste 12 parts hot water 4 parts Red Boat fish sauce 1 part distilled, white apple cider, Champagne vinegar, or lime juice Chopped peanuts (optional)

1.

Combine sugar, smashed garlic, and chilies in a jar. Add hot water and stir to dissolve the sugar. Let this mixture steep 15 minutes to allow the garlic and chilies to release their oils.

2. Add fish sauce and vinegar. (If using lime or other citrus juice, make sure the water has completely cooled before adding it to the pot; otherwise, the warm

liquids may cause the juice to become bitter.) Stir to combine.

Add the peanuts, if using.

3. The can be used right away, but its flavor will improve the next day. N made with vinegar will last at least 1 week, and those made with lime juice are best used within the week they’re made.

WINTER IN THE WEST 2022 • SUNSET

59

TIP Save the turkey bones for stock. It’s perfect for making an invigorating bowl of porridge the morning after this feast. And any leftover turkey meat will be a great filling in a bánh mì, too!

FOR THE MARINADE

FOR THE GRAVY

7 cloves

1 turkey backbone

2 Tbsp. ground coriander seeds,

1 turkey neck

preferably freshly ground

¾ lb. white or yellow onion, chopped

¼ cup minced ginger

2 stalks celery, chopped

2 sticks butter, divided

¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter

7 cloves garlic

RED BOAT HOLIDAY TURKEY WITH GRAVY S E RV E S 8 -1 0

This is the turkey Diep originally developed for her restau-

rant, Good Girl Dinette, and she continues to make it every year. To achieve a juicy, richly flavored holiday bird, Diep

takes the initial step of spatchcocking so it lays flat while

roasting—and roasts faster and more evenly. (If you’d rather

not do this step yourself, it’s worth asking your butcher to do it for you.) She then slathers the bird with a wet rub of gin-

ger, toasted spices, and Red Boat fish sauce, and lets it sit in the fridge for up to 4 days. Finally, when it’s time to roast,

Diep encases the turkey in generously buttered parchment paper to keep the bird juicy and tender. The inspiration for this technique, she says, came from a 1995 Saveur article

about the Southern cook Anne Scott Coleman and her

mother, LouElla Hill, who roasted turkey in a buttered paper bag. While the turkey roasts, Diep prepares a delicious

gravy, using the backbone removed from spatchcocking

1 Tbsp. all-purpose flour

1 medium white onion, diced

2 cups heavy cream

¼ cup granulated sugar

1 bunch scallions, sliced into 2-inch pieces, green and white parts

½ cup Red Boat fish sauce

stock: Place turkey backbone, turkey

1. Grind the cloves into a fine powder.

2. In a small pan over medium heat, fry cloves, coriander, and ginger in

1 stick of butter until the coriander begins to darken and the ginger starts to caramelize.

3. Add the garlic and onion and fry until fragrant, about 2 minutes.

4. Transfer the mixture from the pan to the bowl of a food processor. Add

sugar and scallions, then process until the ginger in the mixture is finely ground.

5. Transfer the mixture to a bowl. Add

fish sauce and black pepper. Stir to combine.

6. Take the baking sheet with the turkey out of the refrigerator. Rub the mix-

ture on both the skin and underside of the turkey. Marinate for at least 1 day—ideally 4 days—in the refrigerator.

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. 2. Remove the turkey from the refrigerator. Take a piece of parchment pa-

per large enough to cover the turkey

1. To spatchcock the turkey: Position

the turkey breast-side down. Using heavy-duty culinary shears, cut

down both sides of the backbone.

Remove backbone and save, along with the neck, for making the gravy.

2. With the breast side still down, use a heavy-duty knife to cut through the middle of the wishbone.

3. Turn turkey breast side up. Press with both hands until the breastbone cracks and turkey lies flat.

4. Place the turkey on a baking sheet fitted with a wire rack and place

in the refrigerator while you make the marinade.

water to cover in a medium pot over high heat. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook 2½ hours. Strain and set aside.

2. Meanwhile, deglaze the baking

sheet: Pour the turkey drippings from the baking sheet into a cup. Skim

and discard the fat, leaving the remaining juices in the cup. Set the

baking sheet over medium heat and pour in 1 cup water. Working quickly

with a spatula, deglaze the sheet by scraping up the bits of caramelized juice sticking to the pan. Carefully

pour the liquid into the cup with the drippings and set aside.

3. Make a roux: Place the butter and

flour in a medium saucepan over

medium heat. Whisking continuous-

ly, cook until the mixture turns a deep golden color, being sure to work out will result in a smooth gravy.

day in advance. Simmering turkey stock in advance

1 12-lb. turkey

neck, onions, celery, and enough

any lumps in the roux. A smooth roux

TO ROAST THE TURKEY

simplifies gravy prep on the day of the feast.

1 tsp. ground black pepper

1. Start the gravy by making a turkey

3 Tbsp. ground black pepper

the bird to build the stock. Do-ahead notes: The turkey is

better the longer it marinates, so start prepping at least a

3 Tbsp. Red Boat Fish Sauce

and rub one side with an entire stick of butter. Place the parchment paper, butter-side down, over the tur-

key, tucking the paper under the rack so there’s no overhang.

3. Roast the turkey. After 1 hour, remove

the parchment paper and rotate the turkey. Continue roasting, rotating

the turkey every 20 minutes to ensure even browning. The turkey is

done once its internal temperature

4. Add the drippings and deglazing liquid to the pot and bring to a boil,

then add 1½ cups turkey stock. Bring

to a boil, then add heavy cream and again bring to a boil. Continue boil-

ing until the gravy has reduced and

is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove from heat.

5. Stir in 1 Tbsp. fish sauce. Taste and

add up to 2 more Tbsp. if needed. If

the sauce is too salty, add more turkey stock.

6. Transfer the gravy to a serving

bowl or gravy boat and serve with the turkey.

reaches 165°F, or about 1 hour after you first rotate the bird.

4. Remove the turkey from the oven

and let it rest on the baking sheet for 20 minutes. Transfer to a serving

platter, saving the drippings that

have collected on the baking sheet to make the gravy.

WINTER IN THE WEST 2022 • SUNSET

61

COZY

in the

Photographs by D IANA KO E N I GS B E RG Sunset WI NTE R I N TH E WEST Page 63

DESIGNER HEATHER TAYLOR, CATERER ANNIE CAMPBELL, AND FLORAL DESIGNER WHIT McCLURE SHOW YOU HOW TO TURN YOUR HOME INTO A HOLIDAY HAVEN FOR FAMILY AND FRIENDS.

CANYON

A massive tree wrapped from root to canopy in LED twinkle lights towers over the backyard of designer Heather Taylor’s Laurel Canyon home. It’s a sustainable nod to the holidays that looks so good you wouldn’t blame her for leaving it up all year round.

Subtle but high-impact twists on tradition like this are core to what Taylor does as founder of Heather Taylor Home, the housewares company known for its simple gingham linens that look just a little bit preppy and a whole lot modern. That new nostalgia is also at the heart of Taylor’s approach to decorating for and celebrating the holidays.

Before the pandemic, Taylor ran a thriving events rentals business. While that ground to a halt, cozy cushion sales shot through the roof as people transformed their homes into havens for escape. The super-social Taylor missed the parties, so she jumped at the chance to show us how she and her friends and collaborators—caterer Annie Campbell and floral designer Whit McClure, founder of Whit Hazen floral designs—would throw one for the holidays.

Not surprisingly, this busy crew is all about keeping it simple and keeping it cozy, with just a little nostalgia and loads of easy style. Campbell cooked up a throwback menu of bubbling fondue, shrimp cocktail with green goddess dip, buttermilk-dressed wedge salad, and pomegranate margaritas with cranberry-studded ice cubes. McClure designed a wispy, sage-y wreath, lyrical tablescapes, and a playful garland of dried citrus. And Taylor transformed her home—from dining table to guest bedroom—with linens, cushions, and housewares from Heather Taylor Home and her capsule PREVIOUS collection with West Elm. To get you SPREAD: Annie Campbell’s and inspired for hunkering down and Heather Taylor’s stretching the holiday cheer over the families gather season—in a way that whispers winaround the firepit. ter celebrations but doesn’t push you Whit McClure’s wreath and garto poinsettia fatigue—we’ve assemland adorn the bled the ultimate guide over the folmantle along with lowing pages so you can maximize needlepoints from the coziness in your home.

Loop Canvas.

64

SUNSET • WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

Left: Whit McClure dresses the table with eucalyptus and pomegranates. Spode dishware, pewter flatware, Floral

Society candles, and gingham and plaid linens are available at Heather Taylor Home. Top right: Heather Taylor and Annie

Campbell. Bottom right: More HTH pillows make the guestroom super inviting. Quilt and sham from HTH and West Elm.

WINTER IN THE WEST 2022 • SUNSET

65

Roast Shrimp Cocktail with Green Goddess Dip Cooking shrimp in the oven instead of

boiling is a clever caterer’s take on the standard shrimp cocktail technique.

The zippy, herby green goddess brings

color and major flavor to the appetizer.

SE RVES 8

FOR THE SHRIMP: 2 lbs. medium or large shrimp, peeled and deveined with the tails on

2 Tbsp. of olive oil ¾ tsp. kosher salt

½ tsp. freshly ground pepper 4 lemon halves, grilled

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Toss the

shrimp with olive oil, salt, and pepper and line them on a sheet pan.

2. Bake 8 minutes, until just cooked through and slightly pink.

3. Let cool and serve with lemon wedges and Green Goddess Dip.

FOR THE GREEN GODDESS DIP: YIELD: 2 CUPS 2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar 1 egg yolk

2 cloves garlic

2 tsp. kosher salt

1 pinch freshly ground black pepper 1 small pinch crushed dried chilies 1¼ cup grapeseed oil

1 cup parsley with tender stems 1 cup dill with tender stems ½ cup tarragon leaves

1. Combine the mustard, red wine vinegar, egg yolk, garlic, salt, pepper, and chilies in a blender.

2. Turn on the motor and set to medi-

um-high speed. Slowly add the oil by pouring it in a thin stream. Once all

of the oil has been incorporated, the consistency should resemble thick mayonnaise.

3. Add all of the herbs and blend until smooth. Adjust seasoning to taste.

66

SUNSET • WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

Wedge Salad with Buttermilk Chive Dressing and Pomegranate Seeds

½ cup Kewpie mayonnaise (or other mayonnaise, such as Best Foods)

½ cup sour cream ½ cup buttermilk

Who doesn’t love a salad you can eat with a knife? A gar-

1 pinch freshly ground black pepper

nish of pomegranate seeds and minced chives brings the colors of the holiday to the plate.

S E RV E S 6 – 8

2 Tbsp. minced chives, plus more for garnish

4 heads Little Gem lettuces 1 cup pomegranate seeds

mayonnaise, sour cream, buttermilk, lemon juice, black pepper, and salt

in a mixing bowl. Stir in 2 Tbsp. chives

1 Tbsp. lemon juice

2 pinches Kosher salt, or to taste

1. Make the Dressing: Whisk together

and adjust the seasoning to your liking.

2. Assemble the Salad: Quarter the

Little Gems and place on a platter.

Spoon the dressing over each

wedge and sprinkle with pomegranate seeds and minced chives.

WINTER IN THE WEST 2022 • SUNSET

67

Pomegranate Margarita A winter take on every-

1¾ cups pomegranate juice

cocktail, these can be

½ cup simple syrup

body’s favorite party

made to order or mixed up

in a batch to serve a crowd.

For maximum festive vibes, make ice cubes studded

with fresh cranberries and

1¾ cups lime juice

4 cups blanco tequila

1. In a pitcher, combine the pomegranate juice, lime juice, and simple syrup.

raspberries in oversize sili-

2. Add the tequila and stir to

M A K E S 1 2 C O C K TA I L S

3. Keep chilled in the refrig-

cone ice cube trays.

combine.

erator. Serve over ice.

Classic Fondue Fondue instantly makes any meal a party. Taylor and Campbell have

made it a tradition to share fondue with their husbands at their annual

couples’ Valentine’s Day dinner, but

redeployed it for the holidays. Serving

it with abundant vegetables makes it a lighter affair.

S E RV E S 6 – 8

FOR THE FONDUE: ½ lb. Swiss cheese, shredded ½ lb. Gruyère, shredded 2 Tbsp. cornstarch

1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed 1 cup dry white wine 1 Tbsp. lemon juice 1 Tbsp. kirsch

½ tsp. dry mustard, such as Coleman’s 1 pinch freshly grated nutmeg

FOR DIPPING: 1 lb. broccolini, blanched

1 bunch carrots, blanched

½ basket of cherry tomatoes

1 head cauliflower, cut into long florets with stems, lightly blanched

1 small boule sourdough, cut into 1-inch cubes (about 4 cups)

1 small loaf dark rye or pumpernickel,

cut into 1-inch cubes (about 4 cups)

1. In a small bowl, toss the cheeses with cornstarch and set aside.

2. Rub the inside of a ceramic fondue pot with the garlic clove, then dis-

card. Store the fondue pot in a 250°F oven until ready to use.

3. Bring the wine and lemon juice to a

gentle simmer in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Gradually

stir the cheese into the simmering

liquid. Melting the cheese gradually

encourages a smooth fondue. Once smooth, stir in the kirsch, dry mustard, and nutmeg.

4. Using oven mitts, carefully remove the fondue pot from the oven and pour in the warm fondue.

5. Arrange the dippers around the fon-

due pot, spear with fondue forks, dip, and enjoy!

WINTER IN THE WEST 2022 • SUNSET

69

Botanical drawings by artist Liz Young are adorned with twinkle lights and greenery. Footed compotes stacked with citrus echo bowls of classic ornaments. Table cloth and napkins from HTH. Scallop placemats from HTH x West Elm.

Whit’s Tips

FLORAL DESIGNER WHIT MCCLURE SHOWS YOU HOW TO MAKE A NATURALLY STYLISH GARLAND OF DRIED CITRUS. SEE HER STUNNING FLORAL DESIGNS AT WHITHAZEN.COM OR FOLLOW HER ON INSTAGRAM @WHIT_HAZEN.

WHAT YOU NEED: 50 dried orange slices 7 feet of twine or thin cording

Wooden beads in a variety of sizes

Toothpick

Pair of scissors

2 yards of velvet ribbon

“For the garland, I created

“To thread pieces where

“To easily create a sym-

“Once you’ve reached the

nating groups of dried or-

slice, take your toothpick

couple of slices and

then thread a piece of

visual interest by alter-

ange slices. Start with one grouping threaded

through the center, follow

it with a grouping threaded through the sides, and

repeat. Place wood beads between groupings to set

you see the whole orange and make a hole on each side, next to the rind.

Thread your twine or

cording into one side and out through the hole on the other side.”

metrical design, string a beads on one end of your twine, then repeat the

same look on the other

end. Alternate sides like

this until you’ve reached your desired length.”

end, make a loop knot,

velvet ribbon through the loop and tie it into a bow.

Cut the ends of your rib-

bon at an angle to give it a finished look.”

them apart.”

WINTER IN THE WEST 2022 • SUNSET

71

Snow resorts just keep getting better. Here’s what’s happening this season.

Story by KRI STI N SCHARKE Y and J. D. S I M KI N S

Park City Mountain will be 100% powered by renewable electricity by 2023 thanks to a local solar project. Vail Resorts aims to achieve net-zero emissions, landfill waste, and forest impact over the next decade in an effort to combat climate change.

72

SUNSET • WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

ANDREA GÓMEZ ROMERO

T R AV E L

&

ESCAPES

Mountain High

PERFECT PARKA Patagonia rarely disappoints, and that standard is on display in the Fair Trade–certified down design of the Tres 3-in-1 Parka, which oscillates between a breathable shell for wet days, a casual jacket when there’s a chill in the air, and a toasty parka ready to withstand a blustery mountain outing. $599; PATAGONIA.COM

APRÈS-SKI, FROM TOP: AUBERGE RESORTS COLLECTION; COURTESY OF PENDRY PARK CITY; MONTAGE BIG SKY

1.

3.

APRÈS-SKI HUNKER DOWN AT THESE COZY NEW SPOTS TO EAT, STAY, AND PLAY.

1. FELIX ROASTING CO., COLORADO What do you get when you cross graham-cracker-infused milk, toasted

marshmallows, and a smoking jar?

The Hickory Smoked S’mores Latte at Felix Roasting Co.’s first cafe outside Manhattan. It’s inside Aspen’s Hotel

2.

resort slated to open this winter, from

guest-room views of the snowcapped Spanish Peaks to the indoor pool,

where you can relax before or after a rejuvenating facial at the spa.

MONTAGEHOTELS.COM/BIGSKY

Jerome, Auberge Resorts Collection,

3. PENDRY PARK CITY, UTAH

just as beautiful as the drinks.

lodge is nestled at the base of Park

and the Ken Fulk–designed space is

Slated to open in January 2022, this

AUBERGERESORTS.COM/HOTELJEROME

City Mountain and features a rooftop

2. MONTAGE BIG SKY, MONTANA Modern alpine luxury abounds at the

pool. Dine at the Japanese-American

restaurant, or what’s billed as an “upbeat disco pizza concept.” PENDRY.COM

WINTER IN THE WEST 2022 • SUNSET

73

TRAVIS BURKE

Under Canvas Lake Powell-Grand Staircase

2 0 2 1

74 WAYS TO EXPERIENCE THE WEST NOW AND IN THE NEW YEAR Story by SU N S ET STAFF

TR AVEL IS CENTR AL TO SUNSET: It’s how we find and photograph the homes and gardens we share with you, taste the food of the chefs whose recipes we print in our pages, and discover, firsthand, the next great little bar, perfectly curated shop, sweet country inn, hidden river or trail, and bucolic winery you need to visit. And then, as it did to everyone, the coronavirus pandemic permanently altered how we move through our own towns,

let alone how we navigate others.

Sunset did not publish our annual Travel Awards in 2020. But for 2021 we are proudly presenting the awards to honor the folks in hospitality who continue to provide unparalleled service in the face of persistent loss and uncertainty—whether we are experiencing their generosity now or looking forward to it in the future.

“People are starting to embrace change

rather than arguing about it,” says Brad Odo, director of restaurants for Waikiki Beach Marriott Resort & Spa in Hawaii. “The amount of gratitude we’ve been shown by guests for reopening, and for giving them the opportunity to travel again, has really been incredible.”

So many of the changes are positive. New technologies like QR-coded menus are minimizing paper and plastic waste; room keys

WINTER IN THE WEST 2022 • SUNSET

75

Ultimate Outdoor Retreats

These camping getaways seamlessly blend the outdoors with modern luxury. Just don’t call it glamping.

AUTOCAMP

CAMP SARIKA BY AMANGIRI

UNDER CANVAS

YONDER ESCALANTE

Take your pick of a

well-appointed Air-

cozy cabin at these

tented pavilions and

mesas, canvas tents

Ten Airstreams and

stream, canvas tent, or

This cluster of canvas

Nestled amid Utah’s

ultra-luxe suites on

with ensuite bath-

designed cabins dot

basecamps, each with a central midcentury

modern clubhouse, to explore the beauty of

surrounding Yosemite or the Russian River.

Locations in Zion,

Joshua Tree, and more are coming soon.

AUTOCAMP.COM

600 acres in the Utah

desert share a restaurant and pool, while

boasting private amenities ranging from

outdoor fireplaces to king-size beds and

deep soaking tubs.

AMAN.COM

rooms dot this safaristyle camp near

Grand Staircase–­

Escalante National

Monument and Lake

Powell. In addition to a

Bryce Canyon location opening in 2022, there are sites at the Grand

Canyon, Moab, Yellowstone, and more.

UNDERCANVAS.COM

76

SUNSET • WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

more than 20 artfully this southern Utah site on 20 acres, which

also welcomes RVs. After you lounge by the pool, head to the

drive-in movie theater, complete with classic

cars, for a film experience under the stars.

STAYYONDER.COM

COURTESY OF AMANGIRI

dispensed from sanitation machines create cleaner environments for guests and staff alike. Alfresco dining has become a much-welcome norm.

“Many people really like not having to share menus and (being) able to make payments using their watches or phones,” says Anu Bhambri, the owner of ROOH, a progressive Indian restaurant in San Francisco.

Other changes continue to be a challenge. Many restaurants and bars are short on staff. Delays and cancellations are expected, be it long lines or a positive COVID-19 test.

“Our planes went from ghost ships to pretty much packed in about as much time as we’ve been hearing about the vaccine,” says one flight attendant, who remains anonymous to share their experience independent of their airline. “With the influx of passengers has come an influx of wait time at security checkpoints, and a bump in the number of guests who need us to do a little more for them.

“I heard a gal who’d been flying longer than I’ve been alive say, ‘We’re a 737, not a 7-Eleven,’ ” the flight attendant continues, “and while it’s funny to think about, it’s true!”

We celebrate the pilots and flight attendants who mask up to get us safely from point A to point B. The hoteliers who hosted first responders—and those who greeted the guests who ventured out on their first vacations after so many months. The restaurant manager who curates the floor plan for dinner service to ensure social distancing. The wine bar owner who built out a bodega to keep the sips flowing for neighborhood patrons who now order in the doorway. The cleaning staff who work diligently to meet elevated standards in each and every hotel room. And so many more.

We picked this year’s awards from submitted entries, ranging from accommodations and transportation options to places to eat and drink.

Think of it as a guide for whenever you’re ready to travel—whether now or later. Above all, it’s a thank you to those working tirelessly to adapt and keep us safe, and even finding time to innovate along the way.

Emergi ng Wi ne Route

Walla Walla, Washington Pét-nats and other interesting styles are emerging from

this Washington winemaking region. “There’s this feeling that we can really do anything here, just a palpable air

WINE COUNTRY ESCAPES

of possibility,” says Itä Wines owner and winemaker

Kelsey Albro Itämeri, who opened her tasting room amid the pandemic. WALLAWALLAWINE.COM

We’re raising our proverbial glass to these standout spots to explore wine country.

Wi n e r y Wor t h a Vi sit

Oasis by Hoopes Vineyard Wine country can be family-friendly—just ask Hoopes

Vineyard. While you drink the winery’s bottlings, your kids

can run around the regenerative farm and animal sanctuary, home to dogs, horses, and more.

HOOPESVINEYARD.COM

R o m a n t i c R e s pite

Hotel Ynez Expansive gardens meet sophisticated interiors at this Solvang gem just miles from Los Olivos wine tasting.

Read a book in a hammock or gather around one of the

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: RICHARD DUVAL IMAGES; JILLIAN MITCHELL; THOMAS J. STORY; ©2012 ARMANDO MARTINEZ/@MANDOMATIC

firepits outfitted with Adirondack chairs. HOTELYNEZ.COM

GRANADA HOTEL & BISTRO This is urban luxury at its finest.

Swathed in exposed brick and Persian rugs, the San Luis Obispo hotel offers 17 rooms plus a French bistro.

GRANADAHOTELAND­ BISTRO.COM

MILLIKEN CREEK INN

A 2021 redesign of this 11-room hideaway overlooking the Napa River delivered. Think private firepits and a koi pond. Breakfast in bed? Yes, please. MILLIKEN­ CREEKINN.COM

CARNEROS RESORT AND SPA

Cottages and farmhouse-style homes at this Napa Valley hideaway recently received a facelift, bolstering amenities including in-room wine dispensers. CARNER­ OSRESORT.COM

INN AT THE PIER Sta ndout Wi ne Bar

Noble Riot The owners of this Colorado wine bar promise “a bit of mayhem,” which you can find on a list that spans orange wines, pét-nats, and “weirdo bubbs.” The bar is

nestled in a brick building within Denver’s mural-clad RiNo District. NOBLERIOT.COM

Many rooms at this Pismo Beach hotel boast ocean views, an ideal start to a day of tasting. You might be tempted to stick around town thanks to onsite beach cruiser rentals. THE­ INNATTHEPIER.COM

WINTER IN THE WEST 2022 • SUNSET

77

Island Refresh

Hawaii hotels are unveiling spectacular transformations, leaving us longing for a tropical vacation.

KAIMANA BEACH HOTEL Expect colorful touches at this Waikiki hotel, which now

boasts a contemporary-

meets-vintage vibe. Its newly updated Hau Tree restaurant

offers a weekend rosé brunch, or shared plates for dinner beneath golden lanterns.

KAIMANA.COM

FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALĀLAI All 249 guest rooms at this

picturesque resort on the Big Island have been updated

amid a $100 million renova-

tion, not to mention the addition of a marine center at its swimmable aquarium.

FOURSEASONS.COM/HUALALAI

KĀ‘ANAPALI BEACH HOTEL This Maui hotel’s $75 million

renovation sees guest rooms updated with employee-

made shadow boxes and the

debut of waterfront restaurant Huihui, which celebrates Hawaiian sailing. KBHMAUI.COM

TRAVEL TIP

THE NEW WAY TO FLY

AERO

All the seats are first-class on these semi-private jets with a private concierge. The airline offers cancellation up to 48 hours before a flight to destinations such as Napa Valley, Jackson Hole, Sun Valley, and Aspen. AERO.COM

78

AVELO

No change fees and $20 checked bags are just a few of the perks from this airline that utilizes a fleet of Boeing 737-800 aircraft for nonstop flights out of Hollywood Burbank Airport and into smaller airports all across the West.

AVELOAIR.COM

SUNSET • WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

ISKWEW AIR

This Indigenous- and woman-owned airline began as a 24-hour charter service and now also offers scheduled flights between Qualicum Beach Airport and Vancouver International Airport on a twin-engine PA31 Piper Navajo Chieftain that seats eight. ISKWEW.CA

JSX

You can arrive 20 minutes before a nonstop flight to destinations in Arizona, California, and Nevada, among others, thanks to this “hopon” jet service with flight attendants, power outlets in each row, and complimentary food and beverages.

JSX.COM

SURF AIR

Avoid long lines and choose from daily, scheduled, shared private flights across the West Coast or ondemand charters to more than 5,000 smaller, regional airports across the U.S. SURFAIR.COM

COURTESY OF KAIMANA BEACH HOTEL

BOOKING WITH A BOUTIQUE AIRLINE MEANS FEWER LINES AND LESS HASSLE.

Adventure Guide

Me xica n Retreat

O f f-t h e - G r i d G e t a w a y

REI Co-Op Adventure Center Arizona

Andaz Mayakoba Resort Riviera Maya

Living Vehicle

REI’s first Adventure Center is located

Exquisite design meets five onsite res-

myriad outdoor adventures in Arizona.

views of Riviera Maya canals. A new

in Scottsdale, serving as a base for

You can backpack through Aravaipa Canyon or embark on a guided Salt River tour. DESTINATIONS.REI.COM

taurants at this spot with sweeping “Tequila University,” where you can

learn about the spirit, sets this Mexico hotel apart. HYATT.COM

The 2022 version of this luxe travel trailer runs on solar pow-

er, giving you the freedom of a refrigerator, air-conditioning, dishwasher, and more on wheels. The bedroom transforms into a mobile office, or you can convert it into a home the-

ater. The best part? This vehicle has the ability to head offroad with its all-aluminum frame and stainless steel trim.

LIVINGVEHICLE.COM

Mighty Motels

A roadside renaissance is in full swing, and these moteliers make us want to pull over.

CAMPFIRE HOTEL

SKYVIEW LOS ALAMOS

CUYAMA BUCKHORN

STABLES INN

There’s lots of room to store your

Midcentury modern meets the

Upscale rodeo vibes abound at

The name says it all at this horse-

digs in Bend, Oregon. You can

on a hillside overlooking the San-

where you can settle into the

Robles, where 19 rooms and a

gear in these recently refreshed

rent a tube to float down the Deschutes River, right at the front

ta Ynez Valley. The 1950s pool is

still intact, and there’s a vineyard onsite. SKYVIEWLOSALAMOS.COM

this Santa Barbara County gem, heated pool or barrel sauna with views of the sunset.

CUYAMABUCKHORN.COM

inspired motel just outside Paso

quaint, six-person bunkhouse are decidedly farmhouse chic. ­S TABLESINNPASO.COM

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ©REI; TADEU BRUNELLI; MATT WEIR; COURTESY OF CUYAMA BUCKHORN; LANE PEARSON PHOTO

desk. CAMPFIREHOTEL.COM

Old West at this 33-room motel

WINTER IN THE WEST 2022 • SUNSET

79

TRUE ESCAPES Part of a 25-million-acre World Heritage site, Glacier Bay Na-

tional Park & Preserve stretches

from sea to snowcapped mountaintops in Alaska, offering a re-

mote retreat into the wild. NPS.GOV

We’re so obsessed with Central Oregon, we couldn’t choose just one spot. Here’s a full weekend itinerary.

We’re all about the rugged vibes in this outdoor

adventure hub that’s also an emerging foodie destination. Start your visit at the rustic yet romantic FivePine Lodge (fivepinelodge.com) in Sisters, a town that’s also the longtime home of classic

FivePine Lodge

beers at Three Creeks Brewing (threecreeksbrew-

ing.com) and Sisters Coffee Co. (sisterscoffee.

com), where roasts range from Black Butte Gold to High Desert Sunrise. Then head just a half-hour Sweet Treat

south to Bend, where you can kick it old-school at

Negranti Creamery

Deschutes Brewery (deschutesbrewery.com) or

A Paso Robles family is behind

Rambler Beer Club (bossrambler.com). Don’t for-

this sheep’s milk ice cream that’s gluten-free and lactose-intolerant-friendly,

spanning flavors like salted

brown sugar and fresh mint and chip—they ship nationwide! NEGRANTICREAMERY.COM

80

see what all the cool kids are talking about at Boss get a stop for a pale ale at Cascade Lakes Brewing Co. (cascadelakes.com). Then, savor Northern Thai

cuisine at Wild Rose restaurant (wildrosethai.com), or pop over to 5 Fusion and Sushi Bar (5fusion.

com), a James Beard semifinalist restaurant from chef Joe Kim. End the trip with a bang at The Last Blockbuster on Earth (bendblockbuster.com).

SUNSET • WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

Three Creeks Brewing

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY OF ARAMARK; COURTESY OF FIVEPINE LODGE; COURTESY OF THREE CREEKS BREWING; CANA CREATIVE

Desirable Destination

THIS IS BIGHORN MOUNTAIN COUNTRY

The world comes out west expecting to see cowboys driving horses through the streets of downtown; pronghorn butting heads on windswept bluffs; clouds encircling the towering pinnacles of the Cloud Peak Wilderness; and endless expanses of wild, open country. These are some of the fibers that have been stitched together over time to create the patchwork quilt of Sheridan County’s identity, each part and parcel to the Wyoming experience. Toss in a historic downtown district, with western allure, hospitality and good graces to spare; a vibrant art scene; bombastic craft culture; a robust festival and events calendar; small town charm from one historic outpost to the next; and living history on every corner, and you have a Wyoming experience unlike anything you could have ever imagined. This is Sheridan County, the beating heart of Bighorn Mountain Country, and we invite you to WY Responsibly while you explore our backyard.

sheridanwyoming.org

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10/10/21 10:28 PM

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2 5

3

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: MICHAEL HOSPELT; COURTESY OF MACARTHUR PLACE HOTEL & SPA; COURTESY OF THE LODGE AT SONOMA; PARK HYATT AVIARA; THE FLAMINGO RESORT; COURTESY OF L’AUBERGE DEL MAR

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Rad Hotel Redesigns

Hotels across the West are debuting new looks, expanded amenities, and all-around refreshed hospitality.

1. POETRY INN At this über-private (and

4. MACARTHUR PLACE HOTEL & SPA

ultra-luxe) five-room

Custom-designed mill-

7. ARIZONA BILTMORE, A WALDORF ASTORIA RESORT

getaway, renowned designer Erin Martin says

work meets heated travertine floors in 64 guest

Frank Lloyd Wright–­

rooms at this Sonoma

inspired architecture is the star here, comple-

she added “a bit of

youthfulness to a classic

7

tale.” You’ll also notice a new hiking trail on the tranquil property.

POETRYINN.COM

getaway. Expect Victori-

an architecture, a Mediterranean restaurant,

and an impressive collection of artwork.

MACARTHURPLACE.COM

2. L’AUBERGE DEL MAR

new triple water slide

and pool cabanas with private showers mean fun for the family.

ARIZONABILTMORE.COM

$10.5 million renovation

5. THE LODGE AT SONOMA

touched its guest rooms,

8. KONA KAI RESORT & SPA

pool, upscale poolside

Guest rooms, cottages,

bar, and more. New res-

and suites have a new

look at this Mission-style

Tropical décor and an

hotel, where you can

adults-only pool are

only some of updates at

seasonal Pacific seafood to the forefront.

LAUBERGEDELMAR.COM

play bocce then grab a drink from the poolside

horse-trailer-turned-bar.

HYATT.COM

3. FLAMINGO RESORT man designed this Santa Rosa escape in 1957,

6. PARK HYATT AVIARA RESORT, GOLF CLUB & SPA

and its midcentury design has been reimag-

You can play tennis and

ined. Commissioned art

golf at this Carlsbad resort, where there’s

Architect Homer A. Riss-

pieces can be found COUNTERCLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY OF THE ARIZONA BILTMORE, A WALDORF ASTORIA RESORT; KATHRYN BARNARD; COURTESY OF MAR MONTE HOTEL; JORDAN SIEMENS/GETTY IMAGES

sort-wide renovation. A

This seaside resort’s

taurant Adelaide brings

8

mented by a grand re-

throughout the contemporary hotel, including a stunning wall mural by artist Serge Gay Jr. FLAMINGORESORT.COM

something for everyone, including a new twostory water slide plus

private cabanas at the adults-only pool with

ocean views. HYATT.COM

this San Diego resort now offering junior

suites with private bal-

conies and views of the bay. RESORTKONAKAI.COM

9. MAR MONTE HOTEL Hyatt capped off a

multi-million-dollar renovation at this boutique Santa Barbara property with the opening of an Italian-Mediterranean

restaurant, Costa Kitch-

en & Bar, that celebrates seafood and central

coast wine. HYATT.COM

TRUE ESCAPES With so many

folks flocking to

popular national parks, our favorites this year are on roads

less traveled.

Olympic National Park’s old-growth

rainforests and coastline offer a peaceful respite. NPS.GOV

9

WINTER IN THE WEST 2022 • SUNSET

83

PARK LODGING Not into the whole camping vibe?

Stay at these spots near state and national parks instead.

AMANGANI

Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks are a short drive away if you indulge in accommodations at this Wyoming resort, where the interiors are as magnificent as the views. AMAN.COM

GLENDEVEN INN & LODGE

You might just run into a llama outside one of the adults-only rooms that dot this 15-acre farmstead just outside Mendocino, nearly surrounded by Van Damme State Park.

GLENDEVEN.COM

RUSH CREEK LODGE & SPA AT YOSEMITE

A new indooroutdoor spa is notable at this lodge just outside Yosemite National Park. Check out the granite waterfall mineral hot tub.

RUSHCREEKLODGE. COM

What’s old is new again at these hotels, all of which artfully turn throwback vibes on their head.

84

DR WILKINSON’S BACKYARD RESORT & MINERAL SPRINGS

THE DARLING VISALIA

HOLBROOKE HOTEL

These new downtown

Declared a California His-

Founded in 1952, this resort

annex for the Tulare County

torian hotel now offers ex-

received a mid-mod redesign of the spa and guest rooms to complement

geothermal mineral pools.

DRWILKINSONS.COM

SUNSET • WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

Visalia digs were once an Courthouse but now feature Art Deco–inspired décor plus a rooftop

restaurant and lounge.

THEDARLINGVISALIA.COM

torical Landmark, this Vicpansive modern suites at the gateway to the Sierra Nevada. Don’t forget to

grab a drink at the Golden

Gate Saloon. HOLBROOKE.COM

SAGE LODGE

Just 35 minutes north of Yellowstone, the riverfront Montana resort opened a new grill with a menu highlighted by dishes with dry-aged beef and game.

SAGELODGE.COM

CODI ANN BACKMAN

Cool Retro Redos

Ce nte n nial Seaside Getaway

TRAVEL TIP

NEARBY NATURAL WONDER Outside the national park boundary, Arizona’s Hualapai tribe operates Grand Canyon West, where you can board a helicopter, river raft, or head out onto the SkyWalk glass bridge to experience the beauty of the West Rim and beyond. GRANDCANYONWEST.COM

Fairmont Miramar Hotel & Bungalows The oceanfront hotel in Santa Monica celebrates 100

years of bungalows that overlook the Pacific Ocean with a redesigned lobby, new oceanfront bar, and an eightseat sushi pop-up. FAIRMONT-MIRAMAR.COM

SKYTOP LOUNGE AT ADERO SCOTTSDALE ADERO Scottsdale’s rooftop

lounge is like an outdoor living room high above the Sonoran Desert—but with small bites and specialty cocktails.

ADEROSCOTTSDALE.COM

LINCOLN STEAKHOUSE & BAR On the patio of this steakhouse at the J.W. Marriott Scottsdale Camelback Inn Resort & Spa,

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF GRAND CANYON WEST; CHRISTIAN HORAN PHOTOGRAPHY/COURTESY OF FAIRMONT MIRAMAR; COURTESY OF SALISH LODGE & SPA

Camelback Mountain is the

backdrop for prime ribeye and king crab. MARRIOTT.COM

VAGA RESTAURANT & BAR At Alila Marea Beach Resort Encinitas, chef Claudette Zepeda dishes up sea bass and yel-

lowtail crudo for patrons on the hilltop patio with views of the waves. VAGARESTAURANT.COM

Dinner With a View These perfectly sited restaurants take your dining experience to new heights.

THE DINING ROOM AT SALISH LODGE & SPA An eagle’s-eye view of Snoqualmie Falls and the Sno-

qualmie River make this restaurant a standout, not to

mention the four-course country breakfast with a waterfall pour of honey onto house-

made biscuits. SALISHLODGE.COM

WINTER IN THE WEST 2022 • SUNSET

85

Superlative Spas Immerse yourself in the rejuvenation that comes with a stay at these wellness retreats.

GOLDEN DOOR SPA & RESORT Private hiking trails, lush Japanese gardens, and a Watsu

pool are just a few of the amenities at this sprawling San

Marcos property where weeklong stays include a daily in-

room massage and a handful of personal training sessions .

GOLDENDOOR.COM

NOBU RYOKAN MALIBU Centered on a traditional Japanese ryokan, this 16-room

oceanfront sanctuary in Malibu offers teak soaking tubs, indoor fireplaces, and custom linen

yukatas. MALIBU.NOBUHOTELS.COM

ROMAN SPA HOT SPRINGS RESORT Geothermal water and mud baths can be found at this

family-owned, Tuscan-inspired getaway and gardens in

downtown Calistoga, where

massages and facials abound.

ROMANSPAHOTSPRINGS.COM

TRAVEL TIP

HOW TO BE A BETTER PATRON

DO SOM E RESEARCH : Ask locals or a concierge for recommendations on where to eat and drink. With many restaurants and bars adjusting hours, you don’t want to wind up at a spot that’s closed.

86

B E KI N D: Essential workers are often functioning with less staff, higher demand, and evolving safety measures. “Be kinder than necessary,” says Jim Root, general manager of Mii Amo Spa in Sedona, Arizona.

SUNSET • WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

GO WITH TH E FLOW: Arrive at the airport early. “Our favorite passengers are the guests who arrive with time to spare, have a full belly and a snack for the flight, and are flexible,” one flight attendant says.

FOLLOW TH E RU LES: Most bars and restaurants require masks when you’re not eating and drinking. Others may require vaccination proof.

“Although these mandates are temporary (hopefully), we expect them to be in place for quite some time,” says Anu Apte, owner of Seattle’s Rob Roy bar.

IT’S OK AY TO CAN CE L: Cancel your plans if you suspect you’ve come into contact with someone who tested positive for COVID-19, or if you’re awaiting the results of a test. Most airlines and hotels offer travel insurance while booking so you can change dates with ease.

RHIANNON TAYLOR

KEEP IN MIND THESE PANDEMIC ETIQUETTE TIPS FROM ESSENTIAL WORKERS.

Handled with care.

Reliable and personal claims handling.

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For w a r d D i s t i l le r

Backwards Distilling Co. Tour the tasting room at this circus-inspired distillery in

Casper, Wyoming, where you can find spirits made with

locally sourced ingredients. The family behind the operation manufactured gallons of hand sanitizer for high-

need areas amid the pandemic. BACKWARDSDISTILLING.COM

Base Camp

Embark on all types of outdoor adventures from these ideally located hotels.

THE CLOUDVEIL, AN AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION HOTEL

THE RESORT AT PAWS UP

THE EDDY TAPROOM & HOTEL

Jackson Hole’s stunning

Choose between a rustic cabin or seasonal

Housed in the old Gold-

safari-style tent at this

this boutique hotel in

fingertips outside this

modern mountain hotel, which is situated just south of both Grand

Teton and Yellowstone national parks.

THECLOUDVEIL.COM

Montana ranch sited on

nearly 40,000 acres with hiking trails and designated areas for mountain biking, fly fishing, rafting, and more.

PAWSUP.COM

en Fire Brick Co. building, Golden, Colorado, sits at the base of the Rocky

Mountains, meaning fly fishing, kayaking, and

more are right outside your door.

THEEDDYGOLDEN.COM

N a t u r e L o v e r’s D e s t i n a t i o n

Hood River, Oregon Waterfalls cascade and the majestic Columbia River

slices its way through the Columbia Gorge, just an hour

east of Portland. In the heart of the region, Hood River is

where we want to rest our head. But what makes this city truly special isn’t just the full days of outdoor adventures; this emerging foodie destination delivers with

world-class breweries on the river banks and winemak-

ers farming with sustainability in mind. VISITHOODRIVER.COM

88

SUNSET • WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: RYAN SHEETS STUDIO/COURTESY OF THE CLOUDVEIL; @PUNXSUTAWNI/COURTESY OF BACKWARDS DISTILLING CO.; VISIT HOOD RIVER; MANUEL MAZZANTI/© 2021 VRX STUDIOS

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Slopeside Retreats

GRAVITY HAUS BRECKENRIDGE

VICEROY SNOWMASS

SCHWEITZER

THE BLAKE AT TAOS SKI VALLEY

Located at the base of Brecken-

Luxury can be found at the

The Idaho ski resort is about to

LEED certification distinguishes

now offers a rental service so you

accommodations that span stu-

31-room Humbird hotel opening

at Taos Ski Valley. A renowned art

ridge mountain, the first “Haus”

can reserve mountain bikes, kayaks, and more; pick up the gear

upon arrival; then return it before you leave. GRAVITYHAUS.COM

90

7,000-square-foot spa and cozy

dios, suites, and penthouses. Toro Kitchen & Lounge offers Latin fare with mountain views. VICEROYHO­ TELSANDRESORTS.COM/SNOWMASS

SUNSET • WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

get even better thanks to a new

this winter, complete with a restaurant and bar. It will feature

beautifully exposed cross-laminated timber. SCHWEITZER.COM

this 80-room New Mexico lodge collection brings a bit of extra

magic to thoughtfully appointed alpine-inspired penthouses and suites. SKITAOS.COM

COURTESY OF TAOS SKI VALLEY

Whether you’re hitting ski runs or simply looking for an alpine getaway, these mountain lodges are the perfect places to hunker down.

Waterside Ge m

White Water Cambria

California Salmon River Safari

Unplugged | Active | Comfortable | Unique

Just steps from the rocky cliffs of Moonstone Beach on the

central California coast, this stylish lodge utilizes Block Shop Textiles artwork and custom furnishings to add simple

touches that make all the difference in soothing suites with ocean views. WHITEWATERCAMBRIA.COM

Combine some of the

TRUE ESCAPES Alaska’s Denali National Park & Preserve is home to “the

Mountain,” otherwise known as the tallest peak in North

America. Park officials allow adventurers to hike off-trail; be sure to do some research ahead of time, and don’t be surprised if you run into wildlife. NPS.GOV

world’s best whitewater, a remote & internationally recognized wild river canyon, & unique 'safari style' pop-up glamping (post river sauna anyone?) anyon

FROM TOP: JONNY VALIANT; COURTESY OF ARAMARK

All away from wi-fi, cell phones, & hectic daily schedules

Want to see all the entrants to this year’s Travel Awards? Check out our full online directory at sunset.com.

Award winning, active, & comfortable trips in the wild - with a handcrafted quality and attention to detail.

W I N T E R I N T H E W E S T 2 0 2 2 • | S 541 UNSE T 91 www.MomentumRiverExpeditions.com 488 2525

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Travel Planner ARIZONA

Tempe Tourism Office VisitTempe.com 480.894.8158

Scottsdale Phoenix PHX

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United States Postal Service—2019 Statement of Ownership, Management, and Circulation 1. Publication title: Sunset. 2. USPS publication code: 0057-9690. 3. Filing date: October 1, 2021. 4. Frequency: Bi-Monthly; 5. Number of issues annually: 6. 6. Annual subscription price: $24.95. Complete mailing address of known office of publication: Sunset Publishing Corporation, 9720 Wilshire Blvd. Beverly Hills, CA 90212. 8. Complete mailing address of headquarters or general business office of publisher: Sunset Publishing Corporation, 9720 Wilshire Blvd. Beverly Hills, CA 90212. 9. Full names and complete mailing addresses of Publisher, Editor, and Managing Editor: Publisher: Shawn Byers, 901 N Glebe Rd. Arlington, VA 22203; Editor: Hugh Garvey, 9720 Wilshire Blvd. Beverly Hills, CA 90212; Managing Editor, N/A. 10. Owner: Sunset Publishing Corporation; 9720 Wilshire Blvd. Beverly Hills, CA 90212; Michael A. Reinstein; 9720 Wilshire Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90212; 11. Known bondholders, mortgages, and other security holders owning or holding 1 percent of more of total amount of bonds, mortgages or other securities: None. 12. Tax status: Has not changed during preceding 12 months. 13. Publisher title: Sunset. 14. Issue date for circulation data below: Oct/Nov 2021.

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Travel Planner ALASKA

CALIFORNIA

VisitTCToday.com/sunset

WIND DOWN IN STYLE AT RUSH CREEK LODGE & SPA AT YOSEMITE Imagine Chasing the Nothern Lights.

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WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

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THAT’S A WRAP

Most wrapping paper can’t be recycled.

Hawaii’s Sara Smith wants to change that.

We don’t usually think about what happens to gift wrapping after it’s ripped away. But Sara Smith has spent years thinking about it. Most wrapping paper isn’t recyclable and won’t break down on its own, due to the amount of plastic and non-paper additives that go into conventional wraps. So, Smith founded her company Wrappily (wrappily.com) to provide an environmentally conscious alternative. The Hawaii resident now collaborates with artists and designers across the United States to add new styles to her already extensive line of wrapping paper made with recyclable newsprint. While it’s a seemingly small change to make this holiday season, here’s the rub: Plastic shopping bags, sacks and wraps comprise 4 million tons of trash a year nationally, according to the federal government. Interview by MAG DALE NA O ’ N EAL

Why did you start Wrappily?

center of Maui that’s just getting larger

or getting married, I was the one at the

out of there. Tree-free is a new thing

end of the party smoothing out the tissue paper and wrapping up ribbon—

then it was stacking up in my house in

and larger, so we want to keep things

that people are seeing, like stone paper, but even that is 20% plastic.

a giant basket. I was calling recycling

Why newsprint?

wouldn’t accept it. I realized there was

can be pulped and reformed. They say

centers across Hawaii and they

nothing to do with all of the leftover

gift-wrapping supplies, so my brain started thinking about alternatives.

son. I went to school and studied jour-

nalism and worked in print at The Maui News. That’s why I could envision the printing presses.

What does the average consumer not consider when buying gift wrap?

Most people want to do the right thing for the environment. Maybe on a label it has a sustainability icon or it’s on

100% recycled paper or says it is recyclable, but sometimes these papers

still have glossy coatings, or glitter and foils, and that is what now means it

goes in the trash. I’m particularly sensitive because we have a landfill in the

fresh. I decided I was going to collabo-

rate with artists and bring their designs to life. It’s not polka dots or stripes or

remill.

and is one of the easiest things to re-

would print labels for Johnson & John-

doesn’t mean we can’t make it super

seven times because it’s so easy to

and was raised in my grandfather’s

as a little girl going in there and they

its process and purpose, but that

a piece of newsprint can be recycled

How should people get rid of it?

printing press in New York. I remember

Our paper may be humble because of

Newspapers are easy to recycle and

What is your background?

My dad owned his own printing press

Where does each design come from?

chevrons. I’m working with artists that have their own styles and are doing fun stuff. They’re watercolorists or

Newspaper is next to aluminum cans cycle. So when the present is un-

wrapped, you can recycle it with your newspaper, compost it, put it in your

worm bin, or if it does end up in landfill it will biodegrade a lot quicker than glossy conventional wrap.

What’s your printing process?

The press that we print on now is up in Washington state. Our paper is also

milled in Washington. The printer produces daily and weekly papers, and

then they switch out the plates to feature Wrappily prints with animals and

plants and all of our vivid colors which is always a cute scene. Newspapers are automatically double-sided, so

our wrapping papers also are, which

lets us offer two patterns on one sheet.

“Newspapers are easy to recycle and can be pulped and reformed. They say a piece of newsprint can be recycled seven times because it’s so easy to remill.”

screenprinters. I just collaborated with a woman who makes mosaics out of

plants and we turned that into a sheet.

How do you hope to influence the way people wrap their gifts?

I really love when people write to me, saying they composted all of their

wrapping paper after Christmas. In the West, we have a lot more progressive recycling capacities but everyone

doesn’t have that. You’re giving and

receiving gifts all over the place; you’ll

end up with someone else’s idea of gift wrap. Make an effort to call your local

recycling center to see what they suggest you do with leftover paper and

wrappings. They have clear guidelines of what they will accept or where to take it instead.

SUNSET (ISSN 0039-5404) publishes 6 issues per year in regional and special editions by S. Media International Corporation, P.O. Box 15688 Beverly Hills, CA 90209. Periodicals postage paid at Oakland, CA, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 507.1.5.2.) Nonpostal and military facilities: Send address corrections to Sunset Magazine, P.O. Box 3228, Harlan, IA 51593-0408.

Vol. 244, No. 6, Issue: Dec/Jan 2022. Printed in U.S.A. Copyright © 2021 S. Media International Corporation. All rights reserved. Member Alliance for Audited Media. Sunset, The Magazine of Western Living, The Pacific Monthly, Sunset’s Kitchen Cabinet, The Changing Western Home, and Chefs of the West are registered trademarks of S. Media International Corporation. No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited ­submissions. Manuscripts, photographs, and other material submitted to P.O. Box 15688 Beverly Hills, CA 90209 can be acknowledged or returned only if accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope.

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SUNSET • WINTER IN THE WEST 2022

JOHN HOOK/COURTESY OF WRAPPILY

When all my friends were having kids

OPEN S PAC E S

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