Vineyard Views

Tobin Heminway and her husband Ray Hannigan transplanted olive trees from her father’s house down the hill, adding a familiar touch to their new home. didn’t take long for Tobin Heminway and her father, Jay, to choose the perfect spot on their land near St. Helena for a new two-bedroom ranch house. They’d memorized the contours and viewpoints of the 200-acre property in the Chiles Valley near Lake Hennessey, 31 of which are planted to vine, when the two of them explored the land together on his motorcycle during her childhood weekend visits.

“My parents split up when I was five,” Heminway remembers. “They went together to Italy when my father was there as a Fulbright scholar, and they came home separately. I grew up in Berkeley and came up to St. Helena on the weekends and summer vacations, back in the 1970s when it was only a small town with a bunch of feed and seed stores and Keller’s market.”

In 1969, Jay left his post as a sculpture professor at the University of California, Berkeley, and bought the hardscrabble property, joining the nascent back-to-the-land movement brewing among his peers. He lived in a ramshackle former hunting lodge that was the only standing structure on the land, where his wife, Pam, still resides.

That home is closer, in distance and style, to the rustic tasting room and cellars where the family ages their wine. Longtime friend, chef Alice Waters, still serves a bright and lively Green & Red Zinfandel as the house wine at her famed restaurant Chez Panisse, though the label is a relatively unsung hero among increasingly flashy Napa Valley brands. You may not have heard of Green & Red, but

Heminway’s longtime friend, artist Elena Colombo, designed a fire bowl that doubles as a garden sculpture, offering cozy vibes for sipping a glass of wine next to the pool. chances are you know the wineries like Turley and Scribe that buy their grapes, some produced by 100-year-old Rancho Catacula vines.

“My dad didn’t come here with the idea that he’d plant grapes, but he found those old vines and then started slowly,” Heminway says. She was by her father’s side handcorking their first public vintage, made with a basket press, in 1977.

Decades later, Heminway and her husband Ray Hannigan uprooted their New York lives and careers (she is a former film producer turned interior designer; he is a real-estate lawyer) to head West to work side by side with Jay, who was nearing retirement and struggling with some health issues. For years, Hannigan and Heminway had been coming out for two weeks of the annual harvest to observe and take copious notes. The plan was to complete their education, learning the nuances of grape growing and wine-making full-time, and step into the shoes that Heminway, her father’s only child, knew she would fill one day. Building that two-bedroom ranch house for the couple, with a guest room for their adult daughter, a garden, and an outdoor kitchen built for entertaining, was a critical step toward making that long-held dream a reality.

Heminway’s dream was to build a romantic, Cliff May-inspired single-story home with a courtyard and a vine-covered pergola, like the ones she admired as a child growing up in the Bay Area. “We were living in a loft in Manhattan, and we wanted a funky California ranch. But my dad said, ‘No way. You’d be crazy to build a wood house up here,’” she says. “He was worried about fire. And he was right.”

Heminway and Hannigan enlisted the local architecture firm ChandlerWorkshop to design a modern steel, glass, and stucco home that has the spirit of a heritage ranch house, just made with more durable, practical materials.

To hear Heminway tell the story of what happened next, that decision was the last easy one she would make for some time. Her father Local architecture firm ChandlerWorkshop dedied suddenly in 2019. The house was unfinished, and it was well before anysigned a modern one was ready to take over the busisteel, glass, and ness. Enlisting the help of her younger stucco home that has the spirit of a heritage ranch half-sister, Taylor Jacobson, a Los Angeles-based interior designer with a house, just with long list of local resources and conmore durable, tacts, had always been part of the plan, practical materials. though the scope of her involvement grew. Jacobson stepped in to take over the project while Heminway and Hannigan handled the wine business.

“We had to dive right into the 2019 harvest, which was massive,” Heminway says. “I needed her, and she was there. That’s the blessing of a sister relationship. I’ve seen her career take off and how it’s developed. I knew that she understood what we wanted. And we communicated so well. It’s been amazing for our relationship.”

Jacobson, who had visited the property a few times as a teenager, understood the brief completely. She incorporated some feminine touches, like a pink DWR sofa with a vintage kilim rug in the living area, and a powder room covered in a discontinued Hermès wallpaper, to add some warmth and charm to the angular house. “I knew it would be really fun to collaborate with Tobin, choosing paint colors, tile, lighting, and fixtures,” says Jacobson.

Because of their 11-year age difference, the two weren’t very close growing up. Decorating a house was a long-delayed bonding experience for them. “I knew this California design world better than Tobin did, and we worked together to incorporate some of their furniture from the New York apartment and make it work for their new life,” Jacobson says.

The well-considered kitchen was a gift to Hannigan, a skilled amateur chef, who got the built-in pasta-making station of his dreams, with racks of rolling pins displayed proudly on the wall above it. It was his idea to order the

Heminway and her husband Ray Hannigan dove right into the 2019 harvest while the house project was underway.

wine-colored BlueStar range with green knobs as an homage to their legacy and surroundings.

Of all of the special custom details, the hand-milled and hyper-local black walnut accents stand out.

Outside, a kitchen is outfitted with a pizza oven, a gas grill, and a Big Green Egg charcoal cooker. There’s a sizable pool with plenty of seating. Because the soil on the hilltop isn’t suited to grow much, multiple large containers planted with trees, shrubs, and herbs create a feeling of lushness. A fire bowl designed by Heminway’s longtime friend, artist Elena Colombo, doubles as a garden sculpture even when it’s unlit. And small conversation areas with outdoor furniture from Hay dot the property. The real star of the show is the 360-degree view.

In the living room, the sisters paired a DWR rose sofa with a flat-weave kilim rug. The coffee table is by Garza Marfa, and the rattan-wrapped vintage side tables are from Pat McGann in Los Angeles. Vintage Saarinen chairs surround a rosewood dining table with metal inlay. The overhead pendant is by Nickey Kehoe.

Jay’s wildfire concerns were eerily prescient when the Glass Fire scorched the region in fall 2020. The house remained intact, but Green & Red lost an entire vintage because of smoke-tainted grapes. Hannigan learned the hard way what Heminway already knew from growing up around the agricultural community in Northern California: The fantasy of vineyard life in the West conceals a less bucolic reality.

“I think he thought it was going to be sunny and lovely,” says Heminway, with a laugh. “He was a real estate litigator fighting in New York City, but every day he says, ‘I can’t believe how exhausting this is.’ We work seven days a week, and there’s always a new challenge. The learning curve is so great. But it’s also incredibly rewarding.”

Despite the setbacks, Heminway and Hannigan are settling into their new roles, and their new home, beautifully. Hannigan has made it a priority to open the property to more visitors, and happily leads tours and hosts tastings for visitors, which was a part of the job that made her father “grumpy,” Heminway says.

And she has assumed the helm of her family business with grace and gratitude, alongside winemaker Aaron Whitlatch, and Salvador Duran, the vineyard manager.

“You can feel my father’s presence, and see his work, all over this land. The way he planted the vines, and carved out the hillsides and the valley, feels like sculpture. He worked slowly and deliberately, and was always an artist,” she says. “And now we have a living, moving painting just outside our window, everywhere we turn.”

A BlueStar range is paired with Fireclay tile. The pendant lights over the island are by Miri Mara in Carpinteria, his first experiment making porcelain shades. The bar stools are by Thomas Hayes.

In the powder room, discontinued Hermès wallpaper adds a playful touch to a vintage mirror and brass sconces.

A custom banquette with Pierre Frey upholstered cushions creates a cozy nook with black and cane dining chairs by Industry West.

A Noguchi lantern hangs in the primary bedroom alongside a vintage 1970s Swedish tapestry. The custom headboard and nightstands are by Chad Peterson. A McGhee & Co. bench and Unison Home dresser complete the look, as does Uno the dog.

STORY BY J.D. SIMKINS

The view of the Colorado River as seen from Guano Point

There is an undeniable sensation of the prehistoric when standing among the towering rock sentinels and bustling waters of Grand Canyon West, a marvel shaped by the slow churn of time that, to this day, remains sacred to its original Hualapai Nation stewards. Their centuries-long custodianship of this land is equally spectacular and of benefi t to visitors seeking to embrace both the location’s culture and natural grandeur. Situated on the west rim of the storied canyon, Grand Canyon West off ers travelers any number of memorable experiences: Extravagant selfi e-worthy views, rich history, outdoor adventure—all easily accessible from Las Vegas. On a recent trip I made it a point to experience it all, to fully grasp how the seemingly disparate parts coalesce for an immersive and enriching experience.

TAKE THE LONG VIEW The Hualapai imprint is evident immediately upon arrival at Eagle Point, home to the horseshoeshaped Skywalk that draws visitors to its jaw-dropping surroundings and transparent walkway with a clear line of sight to the canyon fl oor 4,000 feet below. Before venturing onto the platform, I read the stories of the territory’s tumultuous history that adorn the building’s walls, studied glass-encased Hualapai artifacts, and listened to the traditional Skywalk and music and story-telling that fi lled Eagle Point the room, tales chronicling the strength of a people whose perseverance against insurmountable odds is as impressive as the environs they call home. On the Skywalk, I gazed outward at the spectacular formations and to the eagle-shaped rock that gave this place its name, one that’s intrinsic to the origin story of the Hualapai. Back on

Skywalk and Eagle Point

solid, non-cantilevered ground, I made my way through the property’s Native American Village of housing, sweat lodges and other traditional structures, models of architecture that stood here long before any outsiders set foot on this land.

RUN THROUGH HISTORY While you can easily opt for a day trip, overnight accommodations are available at the cozy, rustic The Cabins at Grand Canyon West. Staying in the cabins put me in convenient proximity to a zipline that allows for an adrenaline-fueled 40 mile-per-hour ride high over the canyon. Also nearby were helicopter and pontoon tours that meander

The author takes it all in passengers above, through, and fi nally down into the base of the canyon and a hikable trail. It was here that I embarked on a contemplative run. A little beyond the fi rst mile, I reached a part of the Quartermaster Canyon rim, where, in 1874, younger Hualapai members enduring the “Long Walk to La Paz” at the gunpoints of U.S. Cavalrymen escaped down a hidden trail into this very canyon. There was a haunting beauty in the stillness of this vast place. Away from crowds, the only sounds emanated from my own footsteps and intermittent birdsong. I saw or heard no other human, the way the natural world intended. It had been an unforgettable day, thanks to the hosts of these stunning environs, of refl ection and appreciation.

THE RIVER OF LIFE On my last day, I rendezvoused with Andre Wakuyuta, a Hualapai Game and Fish ranger who previously served as a guide Hualapai River Runners get you close to the action for the Hualapai River Runners, the group who conduct heartpumping single- and multi-day rafting trips out of Peach Springs that offer perhaps the most (literally) immersive way to experience the canyon. On our trek along the water I was educated, as one is on a river tour, by Andre’s expertise on local geology, seasonal weather patterns, spotting wildlife, and hunting big game. It was here, standing alongside rushing waters and fl anked by canyon walls, that I observed the rich appreciation by Andre and his tribe for everything the Earth and this life aff ords. Their way, evident to visitors who choose to pay attention, is rooted in ancient beliefs in a conscious planet, existence, and universe that are seamless. There is no beginning. No end. Settlers, profi teers, missionaries, and tourists may come and go, but Hualapai Nation, you’ll begin to understand when you visit with open eyes, is forever.