Life + Style - 16 July 2021

A visit to the Chatham Islands Page 2

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life+style The Weekend Sun 21 2015 16August, July, 2021 Fishing boats in Waitangi Bay.

Island life

A visit to the Chatham Islands A visit to the Chatham Islands has always been on my travel list, but with other overseas destinations cropping up over the years I never quite got there.

Nikau bush conservation area.

One of the tree carvings.

Now that overseas travel has been restricted, New Zealanders are encouraged to see their own country, so this year felt like the perfect time to finally visit.

The Chatham Islands (or Rēkohu meaning ‘misty sun’ in Moriori, and Wharekauri in Māori) lie about 800 km east of Christchurch, and are the first inhabited place to see the sun each day.

They’re made up of 11 islands, with Chatham, the largest, and Pitt, the second largest, inhabited with a population of 600.

The main industries on the islands are fishing for crayfish and blue cod, and sheep and beef farming.

It is becoming a popular tourist destination, as the currency and language are the same and there are no restrictions on bringing food items back to the mainland.

It is interesting that the locals refer to the mainland as New Zealand as if they were a country apart, which in a way they are. It wasn’t long before I was following suit.

As most of the historical, cultural and nature reserves are on private land, it is best to go with a tour group as they are allowed access to these special places.

Kerry, from Chatham Island Tours, has been sharing her knowledge of the island for the past seven years, and she ably drove our group around the island in her 25-seater bus, including over farmland.

Firstly we took a trip around the main town of Waitangi’s CBD, which took all of five minutes.

The village has a shop, a hardware store, a service station, a café, a bank – which opens one day a week – and a police station. There’s also the wharf, the Hotel Chatham, council offices and a museum, with displays of the island’s history.

The council is in the process of building larger offices with a more substantial space for the museum.

The bus had large clear windows to take in the scenery, but with drizzly days and wet metal roads it wasn’t long before all that could be seen were muddy windows.

Tommy Solomon was believed to be the last full blooded Moriori. He died in 1933, aged 48, and his descendants have erected a statue to honour him on the land they own. He stands proudly and looks out over the Pacific Ocean at Manukau, southeast from Waitangi, and is a must see.

The large Te Whanga Lagoon is in the middle of the island and is partly fresh and partly salt water. It’s a good place to stop and search for fossilised shark teeth, but unfortunately there were none to be seen on the day I looked.

The coastline has beautiful, wild, white sandy beaches with large waves – ideal for surfing.

16 July, 2021

“As most of the historical, cultural and nature reserves

life+style The Weekend Sun 3

The Chatham Islands: “Where the trees grow sideways.”

are on private land, it is best to go with a tour group as they are allowed access to these special places.”

However, the island is prone to sharks so the best place for swimming is the lagoon.

Walking through the bush we went to look at the ancient Moriori tree carvings. Historians are unsure how they were made, and the theory is they were somehow pressed into the bark of the tree. Some are hard to decipher and can be easily missed without a guide.

A large shed on a sheep and beef farm at Kaingaroa houses the remains of a Sunderland Flying Boat, which struck a rock while taxiing on Te Whanga Lagoon and started taking on water in 1959. The farmer salvaged some of it, and while it will never fly again, it’s interesting to walk through the interior and get a feel for flying back in the 50s.

Sealers and whalers almost decimated the seal colonies in the late 1800s, but the seals are flourishing since hunting stopped. There are several hundred at the seal colony at Kaingaroa, where they play and hunt amongst the bull kelp.

Who knew there was such a thing as freeze dried honey? The brain child of Kaai Silbery, she has been developing this product over the past few years and has launched it on the market as Go Wild honey. It is light and crunchy and can be used as a base for desserts. A tour of Kaai’s property and her collection of native plants shows her commitment to the island and her product.

The stone cottage at Waitangi West was built in 1868 for German missionaries. It lay abandoned for many years until seven years ago, when Helen Bint returned to the islands and took on the restoration of the cottage. It sits alone in a paddock under a large

rocky outcrop close to the sea, and Helen’s garden is full of brightly coloured flowers.

Unfortunately, the weather was not kind and the trip to Pitt Island had to be cancelled, so maybe another time.

There are several accommodation options on the Chatham Islands, but no camping facilities. Our group stayed at the Forget Me Not Suites, part of Hotel Chatham, where we were looked after very well. The blue cod dinners have to be the best in New Zealand.

We all left the island with a better knowledge of this remote part of New Zealand and a two kilo box of frozen blue cod to take home.

Helen Wilson

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16August, July, 2021 life+style The Weekend Sun 21 2015

Singing sisters A roadie to Rotorua

An almost annual weekend away with my four sisters and my mother is always something I look forward to.

The opportunity to step back into our own childhoods, where we are reliving holidays with laughter, board games, practical jokes and plenty of activities, is something we love doing.

It doesn’t matter which town we decide to go to, there is always the same element in common – fun. And often a prank or two.

Last time we went to Christchurch, and this time we headed to Rotorua.

First we stopped at Pacifica Café in Pāpāmoa, making use of the opportunity to sing ‘Happy Birthday’ to one of my sisters.

After that I took everyone to The Cave in Pāpāmoa where we spent a couple of hours exploring the 3D virtual reality world, visiting the top of Mount Everest, the moon onboard the Apollo mission, and diving in shark cages.

And of course, my four sisters were drawn to the competitive car racing, battling each other at Bathurst.

A stop at the Daily Café for lunch in Te Puke was an excuse for a goofy prank with the popular ‘facemats’ being brought out as a prerequisite for ordering coffee.

I found myself posting the images to Facebook with the comment ‘sorry Te Puke’. I knew later it would also be ‘sorry Rotorua’.

Airbnb is brilliant for finding houses where six of us can stay, separated from any snoring, and after dinner it was table games and more laughter. Months before the weekend, two sisters managed to buy up just about every baby doll they could find, wrapping each one as a ‘prize’ which somehow another sister was ‘set up’ to win.

Apparently, as a child she used to have one of these dolls, and so the mission was to deluge her with a mountain of them.

I realise that one family’s humour and jokes can often be completely puzzling to anyone else, and often it’s even puzzling to me too!

I wondered once why we were the only family I knew that had to entertain ourselves and everyone around us while on holiday, but I love those moments when inescapable laughter bursts out of someone.

Up early on Saturday, the mission was to start the day with $5, visiting every garage sale in Rotorua, with each of us allocated to buy a present for another. There’s no fun going dressed normally of course – our normal is to wear brightly coloured wigs. I realised later this helps me not get lost.

The opportunity to meet people at their homes selling unwanted items is quite unique.

The randomness of it, not knowing who you are going to be chatting with at the next stop, and surprising a child by buying something from their stall – it’s all just a lot of fun.

16 July, 2021 2015 21 August,

Eat Street also ‘benefitted’ from two of my sisters dressed up and performing with ukulele and song, much to the delight of the patrons.”

Stopping for a coffee break at Third Place Café on Lake Road, we enjoyed the view of Ōhinemutu, the village on the shores of the lake, with steam billowing up from vents in the earth’s thin crust.

Rotorua’s Kairau Park Market is a great spot to explore crafts and stalls, and an opportunity for the clan to burst into song and entertain the locals in fourpart harmony. Eat Street also ‘benefitted’ from two of my sisters dressed up and performing with ukulele and song, much to the delight of the patrons of a café, which I admit I found surprising.

“You actually liked that?” I asked.

“Made my day,” was the reply.

After singing their way through Rotorua, it was time to head to the city’s Government Gardens for a picnic lunch and bestow our garage sale presents on each other. My mother is the queen of finding ‘just the right thing’ whereas I tend to struggle and resort to buying jigsaw puzzles.

It was then a short drive around to the Lakeland Queen, which operates as a café Wednesday to Sunday with a one-hour cruise at 1pm. The heritage styled vessel, with its gentle paddle, provides an opportunity to enjoy a different perspective of the city, taking in geothermal and lake views, cruising

past the bird sanctuary in Sulphur Bay, and Ōhinemutu, while listening to informative commentary.

It was this lake that Hinemoa swam across, from the mainland to Mokoia Island, to be with her lover, Tūtānekai, thus inspiring the greatest of all New Zealand songs: Pōkarekare ana. The island holds a personal interest for me, being one of the locations for a screenplay I’m working on.

After a rest break back at the house, we donned our ‘glad rags’, spruced ourselves up and headed to Stratosfare, the restaurant at the top of the gondola.

We had joked that with such an incredible view, the food would probably be awful.

It wasn’t. The restaurant features the longest smorgasbord I’ve ever seen and staff arrived at our table with a lit birthday cake and card for my sister.

For creating a memory, it will forever stay in our minds alongside the time we had dinner together at the top of Auckland’s Sky Tower.

On Sunday morning, after a visit to the Farmers Market in the main city, it was off for another coffee, this time to Capers Café in Eruera Street, before heading back to Tauranga. On checking my Covid-19 tracer app, I found we’d been to over 20 places.

Rosalie Liddle Crawford

life+style The Weekend Sun 5

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July, 2021 life+style The Weekend Sun 2116August, 2015 You can’t miss the iconic Ohakune carrot, located at the Ohakune Carrot Park.

Visiting the big carrot off-season Ohakune, the land of the big carrot, is a popular ski destination during winter but has a somewhat lonely feeling in the off-season.

Remember your trip with a postcard featuring this Mountain Rocks art by Drawing The Way.

However, even if you’re not that keen on snow sports, Ohakune and the surrounding area has plenty to offer.

I went to Ohakune with my husband Dan at the end of 2020; my sister was graduating from her basic Army training in Waiouru and Ohakune was the best place to book a room.

The ski town is all but deserted as summer approaches – so much so that the local laundromat closes its doors in the off-season – but this small town has a certain charm when it’s not swamped with people swinging skis around.

We stayed at Snowhaven – a nice little hotel conveniently located near the centre of town (though ‘town’ is pretty small when it takes about 20 minutes to walk from one end to the other). Well-priced and clean, Snowhaven is a nice place to hang your hat if you’re not keen on sharing with others in a hostel.

We got in to Ohakune a little late, but found that The Mountain Rocks café and bar was still open for a pint of Guinness and a hot meal, which both my husband and I were grateful for. This cosy bar on the corner of SH49 and Goldfinch Street serves a good scotch fillet and chips and, for the sentimental types,

you can purchase a postcard with a lovely artists’ rendition of the establishment to remember your time there, drawn by Drawing The Way. In my opinion, it’s worth a 20-minute drive over to Waiouru to visit the National Army Museum.

It’s one of the best museums in the country in my opinion, and the exhibits change on a regular basis. It’s a touching experience and the exhibits are really well done. There’s even a section about New Zealand wars, with a display dedicated to the battle at Pukehinahina/Gate Pa. If you like to wander around and read everything in sight, this museum will likely keep you busy for most of the day, and there’s a military-themed café called The Mess Tent for when you’re ready for a sit down, a tea or coffee and a bite to eat (I can highly recommend the sausage rolls!).

On your way out you’ll notice the gift shop, with a range of army-themed memorabilia and a good selection of books. Outside, there are a few tanks dotted around that are suitable for posing for your next Facebook profile picture.

The Rustic Eating House is a fabulous place to stop for dinner in Waiouru before heading back to Ohakune. With an extensive menu and good food, you can’t go wrong at this cosy-themed restaurant and café. There’s also plenty of souvenirs, an impressive tea selection, jams and other bits and pieces to take home with you.

If you fancy yourself as a bit of a treasure hunter,

16 21 July, 2021 2015 August,

life+style The Weekend Sun 7

Plenty to do in Ohakune and surrounds

there’s a few geocaches in Ohakune that make exploring the town a bit more entertaining.

For those new to this form of modern-day treasure hunting, geocaching is an outdoor recreational activity that uses your mobile phone, hide and seek containers called ‘geocaches’ and specific locations marked by coordinates all over the world. There’s an app you can download that makes this activity easy and fun.

The Ohakune Carrot Park is a good stop for the young and young-at-heart. With giant veggie sculptures and a themed playground, the park is a nice place to relax with a picnic while the kids tire themselves out. There’s a dedicated picnic plaza and an exercise area if that’s your thing, and don’t forget to snap a picture with New Zealand’s most-hugged giant vegetable, the famous Ohakune Carrot standing at 7.5-metres tall.

Finally, we finished the weekend off with a trip to The Powderkeg Restaurant. I’ve been here twice now and I can confidently say it’s one of my favourite restaurants in the country.

Located at the Powderhorn Chateau on Old Coach Road, this restaurant has the quintessential ‘ski lodge’ feel, with wood panelling and a roaring fire by the bar.

With fantastic food and a well-stocked bar, there’s not much more you could ask for after a day of hitting the slopes in winter or exploring the town and surrounds in the off-season.

The drive back to Tauranga takes about threeand-a-half hours with good traffic and weather conditions, and it’s quite a pretty drive. Travelling along Desert Road affords a beautiful view of the mountainous trio of Ruapehu, Ngāuruhoe and Tongariro, and some spots of snow if you’re lucky.

You can also easily stop in Taupō and Rotorua to make your trip last a little longer.

The Powderkeg Restaurant is the perfect place to relax after a long day.

Cayla-Fay Euinton

The Pukehinahina display at the National Army Museum. Photo: National Army Museum Te Mata Toa.

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Comfort Guarantee Warranty Shop

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bedsrus.co.nz

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