cover / Crystal Birch Bae beret, R1 450, The Hat Factory; Poetry scarf, R8 400, Karien Belle; Blackthorn pearl necklace, R38 951, Shaun Leane; 3D printed top, R18 200, Viviers Studio
The love issue head over heels forfashion 20
How did the H&M Studio collections come about, and why was it so important for the brand to go in a more fashion-forward direction? Back in 2013, when we launched H&M Studio, there weren’t many fashion-forward collections in high-quality compositions available at an affordable price point. We knew this was something our customers really wanted and it explains why the line was an instant success. Those principles also ensure that H&M Studio remains a really unique proposition a decade later. When we first launched the collections, they were bi-annual offerings. The collections are developed by a dedicated design team in our Stockholm atelier. We spend a lot of time on fit, construction and quality control. When it comes to the campaigns, we work with some of the most creative brains in the fashion industry. Over the past 10 years, H&M Studio has really gone from strength to strength and, last year, we decided to expand its remit to encompass more thematic collections and multiple drops throughout the year. We set out to make it a destination for great fashion that endures, with pieces that will be loved and cherished for years to come. Why do you think the H&M Studio collections continue to be so successful? I think that, on a fundamental level, our customer is still looking for great fashion and great quality at an affordable price point. The idea of clothes that last, that you take care of and love for many years — that’s not a new idea, but it’s something that’s becoming more and more important. It’s been wonderful to see our customers still wearing pieces they bought years ago. I think the other reason is that we’ve really
We chat to Ann-Sofie Johansson, creative advisor and headlong-time of design womenswear at H&M about the 1970sinspired latest...
Studio
kept pushing creativity without compromising execution. We’ve continued to challenge ourselves; we’ve experimented with different campaigns and presentation formats; we’ve worked with different technologies and innovations; and we’ve kept things moving forward without losing sight of our original goal. What are the key elements every H&M Studio collection should have? It’s about sticking to the core principles I’ve been talking about. The collection needs to capture the mood of fashion — to have that level of excitement that makes you feel a thrill when you put it on — while remaining versatile, as well as being constructed in premium-quality materials and at a price that’s affordable. Sounds simple but it’s actually very sophisticated! What inspired the creative direction of the new H&M Studio collection? This Studio collection expresses a longing for adventure and freedom. We revisited the building blocks of relaxed 1970s style but reimagined them in modern new ways that encourage selfexpression. We took a lot of inspiration from the relaxed silhouettes and laid-back ease of musical artists, so effortless style really underpins this collection. Timeless wardrobe staples have received a contemporary-cool update, helping to build a versatile modern wardrobe with pieces that are able to transition from day to night and from season to season. What are some of the elements that you personally love about 1970s fashion and which ones have you incorporated into the design of this collection? The 1970s were years of great cultural change, when fashion was undergoing a
Collections
massive shift in terms of wearability and codes, moving away from the stiffness of the 1950s and 1960s and embracing new materials and silhouettes. It was about freedom — which is a feeling we wanted to capture in this collection. We were inspired by the idea of a 1970s-era musician on the road, picking up clothes from a flea market or borrowing them from a friend, pairing them with pieces she’s had in her wardrobe for years. The silhouette is bold, with strong shoulders and a tapered shape that feels modern, relaxed What is your favourite piece from the new H&M Studio collection? One of my favourite pieces is the honey-gold overcoat. It’s slightly oversized so it feels quite glamorous and luxurious when you pull it on — and it looks great with denim or even over an evening dress. The H&M Studio collections are going from being bi-annual to multiple limited-edition drops per year. What can we look forward to from upcoming H&M Studio collections this year?
Quite simply, adding more collections and drops has allowed us to explore more exciting ideas and concepts, and particularly to embrace occasion wear in new and exciting ways. How will H&M ensure that Studio collections remain sustainable and not promote fast From a design perspective, H&M Studio has always channelled a sustainable mindset — since the beginning, we’ve been focused on creating designs that endure, in fabrics that are highly durable. We want these pieces to be loved, cherished and worn again and again. From a technical perspective, H&M Studio has made use of numerous innovations over the past decade, incorporating innovations such as Vegea, a vegan material made partly from the by-products of winemaking, Tencel, a cellulose-based fibre, and Eastman Naia Renew, a cellulose-based fibre made with 60% recycled content. As H&M Studio evolves, we will continue to embed innovation in the collections and incorporate lessons from other areas of the business. And, from a design perspective, we will continue to focus on durable, versatile designs that can be worn in lots of different ways and continue to inspire, season after season.
2. RADO MATERIAL MATTERS
The “Master of Materials” blends effortless charm with flawless functionality and durability through the lush green gradient dial and super-resilient matte-black hi-tech ceramic of the Rado Anatom Automatic. The transparent case back offers a view of the calibre R766 movement, revealing its inner beauty. With water resistance of up to 50m, it is the perfect companion, whether charting new territories or commanding attention at formal affairs. R85 200, rado.com and Treger Group 086 122 0861
Green, long a metaphor for fertility and prosperity, is today a rallying symbol of sustainability and ecological consciousness. It transcends its chromatic boundaries to embody the very essence of life itself, a vibrant tapestry of renewal, abundance and spiritual vigour
THE GREEN MOVEMENT
3. TUDOR DIVE IN
Planning to splash out a little? This striking 39mm 18kt yellow-gold Tudor Black Bay 58 with its domed green dial and matching bezel is inspired by the brand’s early divers’ watches from the 1950s, with the characteristic “snowflake” hour hand adding to its vintage appeal. All-terrain tool watches and luxury sports watches have become more elegant in design and even more robust to cope with the rigours of modern living. This model is powered by the COSCcertified manufacture Calibre MT5400 automatic. Combined with a power reserve of around 70 hours and waterproofness to 200m, this is an elegant, striking and practical daily wearer. R342 400, tudorwatch.com and Rolex South Africa
Channelling the power of nature, this stainless-steel 42mm Swatch Splash Dance Skin Irony is part of a new collection inspired by the great outdoors. This piece is inspired by waterfalls, while natural phenomena such as deserts, icy mountains and forests that evolve over time inform the design of others, conceptually linking past and present. Capturing the beauty and energy of a waterfall, Splash Dance features a glow-in-the-dark 3D textured dial in metallic blue with a dash of orange and touches of green in the ring of seconds numerals and the minute hand. R5 070, swatch.com/en-za and Treger Group 086 122 0861
1.
LONGINES
ELEGANCE WITH ATTITUDE
The crises of our complex world require that we break with old ways of operating. The 1920s was also a period of great change, and some of the elegant timepieces we see at Longines today, such as the tonneau-shaped Evidenza and rectangular DolceVita, take their inspiration from archival pieces that capture the Art Deco style and artistic freedom of the Gatsby era, breaking away from traditional watchmaking forms. The new 21.5mm x 29mm Mini DolceVita, based on a larger model first introduced in 1997, might be more discreet but still packs the same punch, with a case set in dazzling Top Wesselton diamonds. This example features a soft mint-green dial outer ring with matching alligator strap. R86 500, longines.com and Treger Group 086 122 0861
TISSOT
Joining the contemporary lineup of sought-after sports-chic timepieces, the stainless-steel Tissot PRX Powermatic is a re-edition of a popular model and design style from the 1970s. With “precision and resistance” (PR) and waterproofness to 10 bar (X), a sleek tonneaushaped case and integrated bracelet, this new 35mm novelty features a wafflepatterned bottle-green dial. Combining heritage and functionality, its automatic movement has up to 80 hours of power reserve. R18 200, tissotwatches.com and Treger Group 086 122 0861
DolceVita
Why is sleep so important for our mental and physical wellbeing? Sleep is the foundation of our overall health and wellbeing — it’s a period of profound restoration and rejuvenation, impacting both our physical and our mental health. First and foremost, restorative sleep is essential for our mental wellbeing. During this critical phase, which occurs predominantly during deep and REM (rapid eye movement) sleep, our brains undergo essential processes such as detoxification, information processing and memory consolidation. This allows us to wake up feeling refreshed, clear-headed and ready to tackle the day ahead. Conversely, a lack of restorative sleep can lead to cognitive impairment and mood disturbances. W hat are the short- and long-term effects of bad sleep on the skin and body? Chronic sleep deprivation can wreak havoc on your skin by reducing collagen production, which keeps it strong and elastic. This breakdown in your skin’s natural barriers makes it more susceptible to damage. Poor sleep quality can also lead to acne, redness and a lacklustre complexion. Studies have shown that inadequate sleep can speed up the ageing process of your skin. More importantly, your immune system relies on good sleep to keep your skin and body healthy. Studies show that sleep loss can impact different parts of the immune system, leading to a higher risk of disorders, reduced immune function and infections. Sleep also influences the gut microbiome, and poor gut health can negatively impact sleep, creating a vicious cycle. The benefits of restorative sleep also extend far beyond the realm of skin and mental health. From a physical standpoint, uninterrupted sleep is vital for the optimal functioning of our bodies. It’s during sleep that our tissues undergo repair and regeneration, our hormone levels are regulated and our immune system is bolstered. In fact, research has shown that individuals who consistently get enough quality sleep are less susceptible to infections and chronic diseases such as obesity, heart disease, diabetes and even certain types of cancer.
W hat are your thoughts on the viral TikTok “Sleepy Girl Mocktail”? The Sleepy Girl Mocktail is a drink that has been making the rounds online as a potential aid for better sleep. It is made up of tart cherry juice, magnesium powder and a fizzy mixer such as sparkling water or prebiotic soda. Tart cherry juice contains melatonin, which is a hormone that induces drowsiness at bedtime, and tryptophan, which gets converted into serotonin, a neurotransmitter that promotes relaxation. Magnesium is a vital mineral
N EWS
Expert’s Corner:
Dr Maureen Allem, founder and medical director of Skin Renewal, shares a holistic approach to achieving better
sleep health
involved in regulating melatonin and stress-hormone cortisol production, and adequate levels are needed to promote muscle relaxation. While there is limited research on the effectiveness of the Sleepy Girl Mocktail, proponents say it can support relaxation and promote sleep. However, it is not a cure for insomnia or a sure-fire antidote to poor sleep. It’s also essential to consult a healthcare provider before trying a new supplement, as it may interact with medication or have potential side effects, and to get a sleep study if you have trouble sleeping.
How do you differentiate between having a bad night and a sleeping disorder? Understanding the difference between bad sleep and a sleep disorder such as obstructive sleep apnoea (OSA) is crucial. Bad sleep can stem from various factors, but OSA is different. It’s marked by repeated blockages in the airway during sleep, causing breathing disruptions. If you’re experiencing symptoms such as excessive daytime sleepiness or loud snoring, or witnessed gasping/choking episodes during sleep,
this is indicative of OSA, which is essential to diagnose as it has numerous life-threatening conditions such as atrial fibrillation and sudden cardiac death. Untreated OSA can also lead to silent reflux, owing to its negative effects on the upper airway and intra-abdominal pressure. With untreated OSA, a “vacuum effect” or negative pressure is created in the thorax during apnoeic events, drawing stomach acid or contents up the oesophagus to the back of the throat. Hypertension, type-2 diabetes or weight gain could be signs of OSA. If you have any of the above symptoms, it’s imperative to go for a sleep study to help pinpoint the issue.
W hat is the perfect night-time skincare routine to promote more rejuvenated and youthful skin? The first step is to remove makeup and cleanse the skin thoroughly. Then tone the skin to rebalance and soothe it. The third step is to use a nourishing eye treatment to reduce the appearance of dark circles and fine lines, while the fourth is to hydrate with a restoring night cream. The fifth step is to incorporate a treatment to maximise radiance and improve skin health. Finally, it is important to protect the skin from the sun’s harmful UV rays with SPF during the day.
W hat are some of the game-changing treatments at Skin Renewal to help promote better sleep? Our health-coaching programme is at the heart of what we do. Led by trained doctors and supported by registered nurses, our personalised coaching covers everything from optimising sleep to managing stress, improving gut health and more. It’s about empowering you to make lasting changes that promote overall wellness and vitality. skinrenewal.co.za
Stick to a consistent sleep schedule to regulate your body’s internal clock. Wind down with a relaxing bedtime routine , such as reading or taking a warm bath. Create a peaceful sleep environment by keeping your bedroom dark, quiet and cool. Limit daytime naps to avoid disrupting night-time sleep. Be mindful of what you eat and drink avoiding heavy meals and stimulants before bed. Stay active during the day but avoid vigorous exercise close to bedtime. Reserve your bed for sleep and intimacy, to strengthen the association with rest. Manage your stress with relaxation techniques and clear your mind before going to bed. Reduce screen time before bedtime to minimise any disruption to your sleep-wake cycle.
Tried all of the sleep-hygiene tips and still struggling to get a good night’s rest? These supplements may help
This improves sleep by aiding in relaxation and stress reduction. It activates the parasympathetic nervous system and regulates neurotransmitters such as GABA and the hormone melatonin, which guides sleep-wake cycles. Magnesium also binds to GABA receptors, quieting nerve activity.
This amino acid supports the nervous system and has been shown to enhance sleep quality and daytime performance in individuals with poor sleep.
Used for centuries as a natural sleep aid, valerian may help improve sleep quality and reduce the time it takes to fall asleep.
Glycine :
VALERIAN ROOT :
MELATONIN :
COQUETTE FLUSH
Get the look:
MIMIC THE LOOK OF
FRESH-FACED
SKIN THAT IS YOUTHFULLY PLUMP AND CHEEK-PINCH FLUSHED
After moisturiser and sunscreen , prep the skin with an illuminating primer that will give foundation grip without losing luminosity.
For an oily T-zone , apply a mattifying, pore-refining primer along the centre of the forehead, nose and chin to eliminate unwanted shine.
Create a sheer, dewy consistency for coverage by mixing two pumps of foundation with one pump of a hydrating serum or liquid highlighter. Sweep across the face, working from the centre and sheering out to the edges.
Amplify the illusion of blushing skin by using a pink or salmon concealer along the eye area.
Tap a cream blush in pink, coral or red (to act as a colour base) along the cheeks, cheekbones and nose bridge.
Layer a powder blush in a similar shade to set the cream and amp up colour payoff. Refine the under-eye area and sides of the nose by pressing in a pink setting powder with a triangular powder puff for a seamless rosy flush and to prevent creasing.
Pro tip: Create a natural-looking flush by using your lipstick shade as a blush base before applying powder blush, giving a more cohesive, lit-from-within glow of colour acrossandcheeks lips.
3 WAYS TO CHANNEL BALLET CORE WITHOUT THE BOWS
Balletcore,
the hyper-feminine, romantic trend that has us smitten, takes a bow
Trend: Balletcore
The inspiration: Ballerinas, French coquette aesthetic, Bridgerton, Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette
As seen at: Simone Rocha, Giambattista Valli, Christian Dior, Miu Miu, Christian Siriano
ith the ballet world inspiring this season’s dreamiest trend, it’s safe to say that we are in love. Last year saw the rise of the balletcore and coquette aesthetics, with bows everywhere — from runways and red carpets to nails and hair. Some people even skipped traditional Christmas decorations in favour of covering their trees in bows. Balletcore bursts into 2024 with even more enthusiasm, as the runways are still enamoured with bows and ribbons. At the Christian Dior Couture show, models showcased a traditional yet laid-back approach to balletcore with low, loosely gathered buns finished with dainty velvet ribbons used as headbands and tied with a bow under the bun. At Giambattista Valli, bows were oversized and opulent, placed atop the head to complement slicked- back ponytails. At Christian Siriano, models sported artful barre braids, with two Dutch braids joined together with a ribbon interwoven through the centre, as one would with a corset or ballet shoes. Simone Rocha took an innovative, more-is-more approach by using bows as a makeup embellishment. The look, which was even made into an Instagram filter, saw models sent down the runway with ribbons tied into bows and stuck to their cheeks. Soft, hyper-feminine and charming, all wrapped up in a signature bow, bal- letcore is the whimsical love letter to our inner girl child we didn’t know we needed.
2 / The Crater blazer, R9 200; The Nova dress, R12 500, both The Bam Collective; boots, R1 799, Steve Madden
1 / Crystal Birch X Chulaap Pirate hat, R2 650, Crystal Birch; latex jumpsuit, POR, David Tlale; latex bustier, POR, Dolce & Gabbana
inspiredby artists
4 / Crystal Birch X Chulaap Pirate hat, R2 650, Crystal Birch; Poetry scarf, R8 400, Karien Belle; mesh shirt, R799, H&M Studio; trousers, POR, Amiri; Rossi Trailblazer boots, R7 990, Preview Designer Collection
3 / Poetry scarf, R8 400, Karien Belle; knit top, R21 200; knit trousers, R22 470, both Balmain; boots, R1 799, Steve Madden
6 / Dress, POR, David Tlale; boots, R1 799, Steve Madden
5 / Blazer, POR; shirt, POR, both David Tlale; leather shorts, R2 999, H&M Studio; Rossi Trailblazer boots, R7 990, Preview Designer Collection
1. This is from my first cover story for Kinfolk magazine. The theme was “The Future”, so I wanted to go with a retro-futuristic, Pierre Cardin aesthetic. And yes, the balls are real, no AI here!
2. I shot this in the sandpit in my old backyard with the beautiful Sam & Terry
3. I love to play with abstraction, angles and the body, shooting in such a way that you sometimes can’t tell what you’re looking at for a second
for
9. Another cover story for Kinfolk’s The Well Being Issue. I love to create balanced compositions with my subjects, experimenting with perspective and negative space.
10. An artwork from my first exhibition of painting works, “Red Rock”. I love painting when I have the time. Currently, I’m working on my next show — stay tuned...
8. This was from Kinfolk’s The Technology Issue. I must highlight the stylist, Louw Kotze — he always nailed the looks
4-7. Exploring the relationship between the subject and negative space; balancing sweet melons; wide-angle play with Loewe; from my “Embodiment” series
Burberry — a magical day of shooting
The primarily self-taught Dutch sculptor who is fascinated with textiles and tactility describes his style of work as having a surreal element to it.
Drawing inspiration from the ancient world and African art, he creates his own colour palettes and uses polymer clay as a medium.
Frode’s work has a sense of true uniqueness
Frode
Bolhuis
Above: Magic, a book by Frode Bolhuis, designed by Petra Warrink. frodebolhuis.nl Instagram: @Frodebolhuis
