Sunday Times | The Edit Man Autumn/Winter 2019

FASHION

GROOMING

ART

SPORT

MOTORING

PURSUITS

OPINION

N 05

the edit man

AUTUMN/WINTER

2019

FASHION

GROOMING

ART

SPORT

MOTORING

PURSUITS

ed’s note

OPINION

N 05

the edit man

AUTUMN/WINTER

COMPI LE D BY Sharon Arm strong

2019

JACKET, R6 000; TROUSERS, R3 500, BOTH EPHYMOL; KNIT JERSEY, R1 650, PRIN GLE OF SCOTLAND; BELTED KILT, PRICE ON REQUEST, KLIPA; BUCKET HAT, R450, EPHYMOL; PANERAI LUMINOR 1950 3 DAYS 44MM, CHRONOGRAPH FLYBACK CERAMIC, BLACK-DIAL WATCH, R215,5 00, ELEGANCE JEWELLERS PANERAI BOUTIQUE

EDITORIAL

* PRICES AND AVAILABILITY WERE CHECKED AT THE TIME OF GOING TO PRESS. SUNDAY TIMES THE EDIT CANNOT GUARANTEE THAT PRICES WILL NOT CHANGE, OR THAT ITEMS WILL BE IN STOCK AT THE TIME OF PUBLICATION.

EDITOR Sharon Armstrong sharonb@tisoblackstar.co.za CREATIVE DIRECTOR Anna Lineveldt EDITOR IN SPACE Stephen Haw MANAGING EDITOR Matthew McClure SENIOR DESIGNER Thembekile Vokwana JUNIOR DESIGNERS Carike De Jager Manelisi Dabata CHIEF SUBEDITOR Theresa Mallinson SUBEDITOR Joey Kok BEAUTY EDITOR Nokubonga Thusi FEATURES WRITER Nothemba Mkhondo JUNIOR FASHION EDITOR Sahil Harilal FASHION INTERN Nombuso Kumalo FINAL EYE Elizabeth Sleith Lynda Stephenson PUBLISHER Aspasia Karras GENERAL MANAGER GROUP SALES & MARKETING Reardon Sanderson MANAGING DIRECTOR Andrew Gill

ADVERTISING

SHIRT, R13 000; TROUSERS, R13 000; BELT BAG, R11 000, ALL DOLCE & GABBANA; BOMBER JACKET, R1 700, KLIPA; PANERAI LUMINOR 1950 44MM, CERAMIC, BLACK-DIAL WATCH, R 315,000, ELEGANCE JEWELLERS PANERAI BOUTIQUE E D I TO R ’ S M U ST H AV E S

Gentleman Jack is inspired by the original gentleman distiller, and made for the modern gentleman. Expect an extra-smooth sip with warm, balanced flavours and vanilla on the nose. This is the sweetest, lightest, and least oaky of the Jack Daniel’s family – the trick is in the second charcoal mellowing, giving it an impossibly smooth, enjoyable taste.

Until 16 June, you can get a personalised engraved message on your bottle of Gentleman Jack, making it the perfect choice for the whisky novice.

THE GLENLIVET FO UNDER ’S RE SERVE , R3 69, NORMAN GOODF ELLOW S

A classic whisky with a bit of an adventurous side.

This special vatting has been matured in a combination of bourbon and sherry casks, creating an intriguing balance of sweet, spicy, and deep smoky flavours. Savour the notes of sweet, ripe fruit and black-forest honey, which are punctuated by malt, powerful peat, and smoked barley. Expect a long finish with caramel and a hint of fresh espresso at the end. With its full flavour and lingering finish, this is sure to tickle even the experienced whisky drinker’s palate.

GE NTLEMAN JAC K, R 350, NORMAN GOODF ELLOWS

father’s day gifting ARDBE G UIGE ADAI L, R1 169, WH ISKE Y BR OTHE R

BUSINESS MANAGER Yvonne Shaff shaffy@ tisoblackstar.co.za 082 903 5641 GAUTENG ACCOUNT MANAGER Letitia Louw louwl@ tisoblackstar.co.za, 083 454 1137 WESTERN CAPE ACCOUNT MANAGER Samantha Pienaar pienaars@ tisoblackstar.co.za 082 889 0366 KZN ACCOUNT MANAGER Gina van de Wall vdwallg@ tisoblackstar.co.za, 083 500 5325 ADVERTISING CO-ORDINATOR Jamie Kinnear PRINTING Paarl Coldset PUBLISHERS Tiso Blackstar Group, Hill on Empire, 16 Empire Road (cnr Empire and Hillside roads), Parktown, Johannesburg, 2193 © Copyright Tiso Blackstar Group. No portion of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without written consent of the publishers.

The publishers are not responsible for unsolicited material. The Edit is published

by Tiso Blackstar Group.

The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of Tiso Blackstar Group.

All advertisements, advertorials, and promotions have been paid for, and therefore do not carry any endorsement by the publishers.

Salute the men in your life with a bottle of Founder’s Reserve.

They’re sure to enjoy the smooth, fruity palate with notes of orange, pear, and toffee apples. The combination of aged oak casks and American first-fill oak casks adds a smooth, creamy sweetness. This easy-drinking whisky is perfect for the man with a sweet tooth.

Complete The Glenlivet experience at The Glenlivet JazzTown marquee at the Durban July, where you can watch Yvonne Chaka Chaka and Mafikizolo with a glass of your favourite The Glenlivet.

D O LC E & G A B B A N A 0 1 1 3 2 6 7 8 0 8 E L E G A N C E J E W E L L E R S PA N E R A I B O U T I Q U E 0 1 1 7 8 4 0 0 1 2 E P H Y M O L E P H Y M O L @ G M A I L . CO M K L I PA C A R LO @ S T R A N G E LO V E . CO. Z A N O R M A N G O O D F E L LO W S N G F. CO. Z A P R I N G L E O F S COT L A N D 0 1 1 4 4 4 2 2 7 0 W H I S K E Y B R OT H E R W H I S K E Y B R OT H E R . CO M

trend COMPI LE D BY Sahi l Ha ril al

cool cover-ups LANVIN REDEFINES WINTER layering with eye-catching, patterned knits and

L AN V IN

easygoing suiting that combine cool, icy-blue hues and warm, earth tones

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PHOTOGRAPHY ULRICH KNOBLAUCH, STEPHANE CARDINALE/CORBIS/GETTY IMAGES AND SUPPLIED

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1. COAT, R5 999, SCOTCH & SODA 2 . LOAFERS, R10 600, GUCCI 3 . SOCKS, R1 800, GUCCI 4 . LES BENJAMINS X PUMA PARKA, R3 499, PUMA SELECT 5 . KNIT JERSEY, R799, POLO 6 . OMEGA SEAMASTER DIVER’S 300M WATCH, R72 000, ELEGANCE JEWELLERS 7 . PERSOL SUNGLASSES, R3 490, SUNGLASS HUT 8 . KNIT JERSEY, R22 400, LOUIS VUITTON 9 . KNIT JERSEY, R180, MRP 10. PUFFER JACKET, FROM R3 599, SCOTCH & SODA 11. CHINOS, R899, POLO 12. DUFFEL BAG, R1 799, COUNTRY ROAD 13. SNEAKERS, R1 899, DIESEL 14. TROUSERS, R350, EDGARS

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COUN TRY ROA D W O O LW O RT H S . CO. Z A D IES EL 0 1 1 7 8 3 0 8 8 2 ED GA R S E D G A R S . CO. Z A EL EGA N C E J EWE LLE RS 011 784 0012 GU CC I 011 326 7928 LO U I S V U I TTO N LOUI SVUI T TON . COM M R P M R P. CO M P O LO 0 1 1 8 8 3 6 1 2 6 P U M A S EL EC T P U M A S E LE C T. CO. Z A S COTCH & S O DA 011 784 3233 S U N GLAS S HU T 011 883 6606

# D E F I N I N G M O M E N TS by LU C A GUA DAG N I N O SA N DTO N CI T Y D i a m o n d Wa l k B o u ti q u e U 2 2 Te l : + 2 7 1 1 3 2 6 7 767

trend COMPI LE D BY Sahi l Ha ril al

luxury sportswear THE CROSS-POLLINATION of sportswear and luxury triumphed on

KOCH E

the Koché runway with relaxed streetwear and clashing prints in moody hues

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PHOTOGRAPHY ULRICH KNOBLAUCH, STEPHANE CARDINALE/CORBIS/GETTY IMAGES AND SUPPLIED

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1. BLACK BAY RED WATCH, R48 800, TUDOR 2. SNEAKERS, R329, MRP 3. TOP-HANDLE BAG, R50 700, GUCCI 4. SWEATSHIRT, R2 899, DIESEL 5. CAP, R279, P OLO 6. JEANS, R429, WOOLWORTHS 7. KNIT JERSEY, R3 050, ANTONY MORATO 8. JACKET, R39 000, LOUIS VUITTON 9. PARKA, FROM R6 599, SCOTCH & SODA 10. BOOTS, R4 599, DIESEL 11. DOLCE & GABBANA SUNGLASSES, R3 790, LUXOTTICA 12. BACKPACK, R2 499, DIESEL 13. T-SHIRT, FROM R799, SCOTCH & SODA 14. TROUSERS, FROM R2 099, SCOTCH & SODA

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A N TON Y MORATO 0 1 1 8 8 3 3 6 3 7 D IES EL 0 1 1 7 8 3 0 8 8 2 GU CC I 0 1 1 3 2 6 7 9 2 8 LO U IS V U IT TO N LOUI SVUI T TON . COM LU XOTTI C A 021 486 6100 M RP MR P. COM P O LO 011 883 6126 S COTC H & S O DA 0 1 1 7 8 4 3 2 3 3 T U D O R T U D O R WATC H . COM WO O LWO RTHS WOOLWORT HS. CO. ZA

advertorial

Big in Japan

Sweater, R2 899

Hoodie, R2 699

Leather jacket, R16 999

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Jeans, R4 999

Touchscreen smart watch in black silicone, R7 999

Sneakers, R2 999

h an n e l yo u r in n e r w ild c h ild a n d m a ke a fe a rl e ss sta te m e n t th i s se a son wi th Di es e l’ s n e w t a k e o n yo u r w e ll- lo v e d w a rd rob e sta pl e s — d e n i m , l e a th e r, a nd C s o uv en i r j a c k e t s . T h e s e p ie c e s — in s p ir e d by th e v i b ra n t a n d e x pre ssi v e sa r tori a l cul tur e o f Sh ib u ya a n d Sh in j u k u , To k yo — a re brou gh t to l i fe wi th e l e ctri c-bri gh t p o p s o f c o lo u r, o v e r s iz e d s ilh o u e t t e s , e ye -ca tch i ng e m b roi d e r y d e ta i l s, f ra ye d finishes, studded accents, bandana prints, and chain jeweller y. This new collection w i l l h av e yo u r e a d y t o h it t h e s t r e e t s a n d pa r ty a l l se a son l on g.

diesel.co.za

street style

PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTIN SINCLAIR/CHRISTIAN VIERIG/MELODIE JENG/EDWARD BERTHELOT/NURPHOTO/GETTY IMAGES AND SUPPLIED

COMPI LE D BY Sahi l Hari lal

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J A C K E T, R1 899, POLO

K N I T T O P, R1 099, POLO

SNEAKERS, R1 099, POLO

CHINOS, R1 199, POLO

BLAZER, R2 499, COUNTRY ROAD

S H I R T, R2 390, ANTONY MORATO

ARTHUR JACK BOOTS, R1 799, TREAD + MILLER

CHINOS, R849, POLO

PA R KA , R50 020, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

CHINOS, R1 199, POLO

KNIT J E R S E Y, R1 199, POLO

SNEAKERS, R14 430, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

cool essentials

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Whether you are a fan of nonchalant streetwear or refined tailoring, tailored coats and patterned knits with pops of warming cinnamon and russet are worthy winter-wardrobe additions OR TH ESE 1

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GOLF S H I R T, R699, POLO

CHINOS, R849, POLO

S H I R T, R899, POLO

SNEAKERS, R2 999, DIESEL

POLO NECK, R1 099, POLO

BOOTS, R2 499, ALDO

TROUSERS, FROM R2 099, SCOTCH & SODA

CO AT, R7 580, TED BAKER

CO AT, R1 299, TRUWORTHS MAN

JEANS, R4 699, DIESEL

HOODED S W E ATS H I R T, R1 699, POLO

SNEAKERS, R10 600, GUCCI

A LDO AL DO S H O ES . CO. ZA A N TON Y MO R ATO 0 1 1 8 8 3 3 6 3 7 CO U N T R Y R OA D W O O LW O RT H S . CO. Z A D IES EL 0 1 1 7 8 3 0882 E RM E N E GI LDO Z E GN A 011 326 7767 GU CC I 011 326 7928 P O LO 011 883 6126 SCOTC H & S O DA 0 1 1 7 8 4 3 2 3 3 T ED B A K ER 0 1 1 8 8 3 3 8 0 3 T R EA D + M IL L ER T R E ADAN D MI LLE R . CO. ZA TRU WO RTHS M AN 011 783 9002

TE X T Gar y Co tterel l

watches

I LLUSTR AT I O N R i chard B ecker

Innovation Innovation is the heart and soul of the watch industry, with many revolutionary models and movements being celebrated this year. This is the stuff that keeps our attention, as well as that of loyal customers and millennial newcomers. The industry has bounced back from the global economic slump: the releases at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie and Baselworld, the most important trade fairs, show that watchmakers are feeling confident again. As well as showing off their mechanical expertise through grand complications, brands introduced fresh ideas, new colour choices, and some customisations.

The most prestigious complication, the tourbillon, was out in full force, and the eye-catching Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel, with its ribbed chiming mechanism, presented a fine example. Meanwhile, the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime double-face, reversible watch reminds us of the value of time. This elegant white-gold piece is the manufacture’s most complicated yet and features a patented reversing mechanism and 20 complications, including five chiming modes, an acoustic alarm, and a date repeater.

Omega was founded in 1848 as the La Generale Watch Co, and this year it celebrates the 125th anniversary of its innovative 19-ligne “Omega” Caliber, which inspired the renaming of the company. Although the Waltham Watch Company in the US had pioneered the production line in the 1850s for the manufacture of precise, interchangeable movement components, the 19-ligne Caliber marked a huge leap forward for Swiss watchmaking. The movement was extremely accurate, and all components could be replaced by any watchmaker without modification. Combining winding and time-setting through the same stem and crown was also ground-breaking at the time. Celebratory pieces include 19 limited-edition, half-hunter pocket watches, and a 40mm De Ville Trésor gent’s watch in 18kt yellow gold with a striking “Omega red” ceramic dial. The evolution of Omega’s pocket watch features components from the original 19-ligne Caliber — such as bridges, mainplates, escapements, and bimetallic balance springs retrieved from the vaults the Omega Museum in Bienne “to ensure the authentic and historic spirit” — but it has been updated to modern standards and includes a new hand-setting system.

While there are many highly regarded manufactures producing impressive complications, the future of watchmaking beats at high frequency at Zenith. Its impressive Defy Inventor is a watch that catapults the brand into the 21st century with its silicon Zenith Oscillator. This revolutionary single component incorporates the functions of the balance wheel, balance spring, and lever. And the calibre is one of the fastest, most accurate movements around, running at an incredible 18 hertz or 129 600 vibrations per hour, which is four times faster than the average watch.

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ONES TO WATCH

1. JAEGER-L ECOULTRE MASTER GRAN DE TRADITION GYROTOURBIL LON WESTMIN STER PERPÉTUEL , EL EGAN CE J EWEL L ERS 2. BULGARI OCTO FIN ISSIMO CHRON OGRAPH GMT AUTOMATIC 3. ZEN ITH DEFY IN VEN TOR 4. PAN ERAI LUN A ROSSA SUBMERSIBL E 47MM CARBOTECH, EL EGAN CE J EWEL L ERS 5. PATEK PHIL IPPE GRAN DMASTER CHIME 6. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER APOL LO 11 50TH AN N IVERSARY L IMITED EDITION , EL EGAN CE J EWEL L ERS 7. ROL EX OYSTER PERPETUAL SEA-DWEL L ER 8. TUDOR BL ACK BAY BRON ZE

W E U N PAC K T H E T R E N D S E M E R G I N G F R O M P R E M I E R S W I S S WATC H FA I R S T H I S Y E A R

The big 5-0

Breitling has joined surfing legends, including Kelly Slater, to assist Ocean Conservancy in its mission for trash-free oceans with a supporting SuperOcean Heritage Ocean Conservancy Limited Edition on a Nato strap made from repurposed nylon waste. Panerai has partnered with Luna Rossa, the Challenger of Record for the 36th edition of the America’s Cup in 2021. Its 47mm Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa with GMT function has a case and unidirectional rotating bezel made from lightweight and scratch-resistant carbotech — used in the manufacture of the hull of Luna Rossa’s AC75 — while all dials are made from recycled sails from the yacht. This highly capable diving watch is water resistant to 300m.

The striking 43mm Tudor Black Bay Bronze, with its slate-grey bezel and dial, is one of the brand’s best versions yet. It was inspired by the Tudor diver’s watches from the ’50s — together with this year’s 50th anniversary of its characteristic “snowflake” hands — which adds to its vintage appeal.

The big conversation point, however, was the launch of the 42mm Black Bay P01 with its unique stop system for the bidirectional rotating bezel at 12 o’clock, based on the legendary Commando prototype from the ’60s.

Colour

Ocean watch Your chosen timepiece says so much about you.

Beyond an appreciation for the design or the movement, it is also an indication of your observation of time and how you choose to spend it.

Our oceans are high priority, and it’s up to us to dive in and help with the cleanup. Whether consumers are becoming more conscientious or just looking for more useful, sporty tool watches to match their lifestyle, the choice of diver’s watches is just as prolific as previous years.

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Living Coral is Pantone’s colour for 2019. The watch industry’s answer is salmon-pink dials as seen in the elegant A Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon. And to celebrate the great outdoors, green is making more of an appearance as an attractive alternative to the blue dials that have been so popular for years. Dedicated to the Seven Summits challenge, Montblanc’s accessibly priced 1858 Geosphere in bronze is a good example. IWC’s bold and robust new Spitfire line of pilot watches has a number of its models presented in bronze with green dials, also offering some consumer-friendly pricing. The two-tone metal treatment of watches from the ’70s and ’80s is also making a comeback: for example, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller in Oystersteel and yellow gold, which is built to withstand pressure to a depth of 1 200m.

Grand prize

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The faceted Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic is magnificently architectural in form: it’s the ultimate super-light and elegant daily watch. Its wafer-thin movement and case design broke a fifth world record for Bulgari as the thinnest automatic chronograph in the world.

B U LGA R I 0 1 1 8 8 3 1 3 2 5 EL EGA N C E J EW EL L ER S 0 1 1 7 8 4 0 0 1 2 PAT EK P H IL IP P E 011 784 2595 RO LE X R OLE X. COM TU DO R T UD OR WATCH. COM ZEN IT H B O U T IQ U E H AU T E H O R LO G E RI E 011 325 4119

Eckhard Cloete

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There was a lot of very cool stuff happening 50 years ago, but the most memorable has to be the Apollo 11 mission and those first steps taken by humankind on the moon. In 1969, there was also a giant leap for the watch industry, with competing brands racing to be first to market with their automatic chronographs. There is always much debate over who came first, but Zenith presented its superior El Primero and Heuer its Calibre 11 in the square-cased Monaco, while on the other side of the pond Seiko may well have beaten them both to it when it wowed local fans with the Caliber 6139. The fact that the chronograph is still the most-beloved complication is a testament to our fascination with motor racing and recording speed, which inspired its development in the first place.

The original manual-winding Omega Speedmaster Broad Arrow was created in 1957 and is not only one of the most iconic chronographs but also the first wristwatch with its tachymeter scale engraved on the bezel. The Nasa-approved Speedmasters were also worn on the Gemini and Apollo missions. This year, Omega celebrates the first steps taken on the moon with the Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition (of 6 969), a near-identical re-edition of the early fourth generation Speedmaster worn on that lunar mission. This eye-catching edition, with its tonal grey-black dial, has a 42mm stainless steel case and bracelet, and complementary polished 18kt Moonshine-gold and black-ceramic bezel. At 9 o’clock, the subdial has a laserengraved image of Buzz Aldrin and a distinguishing “11” hour marker. It is updated with the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 3861.

is an amateur doodler, copywriter, filmmaker, and occasional poet. When he’s not writing headlines by hand, he can be found on Court 1 of the Cape Town Gardens Lawn Tennis Club or in a coffee shop, chilling with his whippet Lord Charles Winston

1. POLON ECK, R1 100, POLO; GOL F SHIRT, R7 530; TROUSERS, R13 680, BOTH ERMEN EGIL DO ZEGN A; SCARF, R5 595; KILT, R9 500, BOTH MADE TO ORDER, ROB ROY SCOTTISH SUPPL IES; PAN ERAI LUMIN OR 1950 44MM, CERAMIC, BL ACK-DIAL WATCH, R315 000, EL EGAN CE J EWEL L ERS PAN ERAI BOUTIQUE 2. PARKA, R42 500; TROUSERS, R15 000; BEAN IE, R4 000; SCARF, R6 000, AL L GUCCI; PAN ERAI LUMIN OR 1950 44MM CERAMIC, BL ACK-DIAL WATCH, R315 000, EL EGAN CE J EWEL L ERS PAN ERAI BOUTIQUE

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HIGHLANDER 1

Winter checks run the gamut with plaid, tartan, and reinterpreted check prints mixing and clashing to elevate relaxed, sportsluxe layers

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PR ODUCTI ON Sharon Arm strong

fashion

PH OTOGR APH Y Ross Garrett

3. JACKET, R6 599, SCOTCH & SODA; POLON ECK, R89, MRP; TROUSERS, R399, COTTON ON ; BUCKET HAT, R999, G-STAR RAW; PAN ERAI LUMIN OR 1950 3 DAYS 44MM CHRON OGRAPH FLYBACK CERAMIC, BL ACK- DIAL WATCH, R215 500, EL EGAN CE J EWEL L ERS PAN ERAI BOUTIQUE 4. JACKET, R1 199, COTTON ON ; POLO N ECK, R399, WOOLWORTHS; GIL ET, R1 690; TROUSERS, R1 890, BOTH CHUL AAP; PAN ERAI LUMIN OR BASE LOGO 44MM, 3 DAYS SHIN Y, WHITE-DIAL WATCH, R72 000, EL EGAN CE J EWEL L ERS PAN ERAI BOUTIQUE

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PHOTOGRAPHY ROSS GARRETT/LAMPOST PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT ZANDER OPPERMAN GROOMING SAADIQUE RYKLIEF/LAMPOST MODEL DAVE KAMABMA/BOSS JUNIOR FASHION EDITOR SAHIL HARILAL FASHION INTERN NOMBUSO KUMALO RUNWAY IMAGES GETTY IMAGES/ DANIELE VENTURELLI/JOHN PHILLIPS/KRISTY SPAROW/PETER WHITE

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5. HOODED SWEATSHIRT, R950, RICHARD HOY; TROUSERS, R3 099, DIESEL3; SCARF, R5 595; KILT, R9 500, BOTH MADE TO ORDER, ROB ROY SCOTTISH SUPPL IES; PAN ERAI LUMIN OR 1950 44MM CERAMIC, BLACK-DIAL WATCH, R315 000, EL EGAN CE J EWEL L ERS PAN ERAI BOUTIQUE

Give the classic plaid shirt an interesting update by playing with layering and proportion – if you dare.

Check prints were made for clashing.

Mix and match your pick of print and colour for an audacious statement.

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WHITE MOUNTAINEERING

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BURBERRY

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Stylishly wear check from top-to-toe, keeping it clean by skilfully layering similar checks with complementary hues.

Graphic checks elevate relaxed sports silhouettes.

Keep it smart yet street with matching kicks and a crisp button up.

The check coat is the perfect grab-andgo piece of the season.

Focus on a warming texture and go for understated, versatile colours.

CHULAAP INSTAGRAM.COM/CHUSUWANNAPHA COTTON ON 011 883 1207 DIESEL 011 783 0882 ELEGANCE JEWELLERS PANERAI BOUTIQUE 011 784 0012 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA 011 326 7767 G-STAR RAW 011 784 0321 GUCCI 011 326 7928 MRP M RP. CO M P OLO 011 883 61 2 6 R IC H A R D H OY A H OY. R I C H @ G M A I L. CO M R O B R OY S COT T IS H S U P P L IES 011 782 7744 S COTC H & S O DA 011 784 3233 WO O LWO RTHS WOOLWORT HS. CO. ZA

grooming TE X T Nokubonga T h usi

NEWS

Winter is here, which means it’s time to break down your skin needs, target any concerns, and build up defences in your skincare arsenal

A brave new world

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ED'S PICKS

M EN’S O BSESS IO N W IT H THEIR FAVO URI T E CO LO GNES AND SK INCARE PRO D UCT S IS MO RE THAN J U ST B R A ND D EEP, WRIT ES T YRO NE AREND S E

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ENVIRONMENTAL DEFENCE:

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he process of collecting is a deeply individual, personal undertaking. The practice of researching, finding, acquiring, organising, and displaying items of interest is truly a labour of love and is often driven by a particular affinity for what the object represents. In the world of men’s grooming, this is likely to result in alignment with a particular brand, where we find ourselves developing a deep and compelling appreciation for the tenets of a particular imprint.

Different people are attracted to different brand characteristics, including “legacy”, “luxury”, “innovation”, “street credibility”, and — increasingly in the digital and social -media age — “brand recognition and visibility”. Brand resonance runs deep and can inspire lifelong commitment and loyalty. But brand affinity can also be transient: we align ourselves to different brands as we go through different life stages. The brands that speak to you when you’re starting your first job may differ wildly from the ones you are drawn to when you hit middle age. I remember a time when brands such Hugo Boss and Tag Heuer represented the apex of style and sophistication for the average South African man, whereas now all my friends seem to want to do is model themselves after Tom Ford, and seem to care only for brands such as Jaeger and Acqua Di Parma.

Grooming products also represent a convenient entry point for one’s favourite brands. The love of a particular fragrance can lead you to try out the same brand’s skincare range. Fondness for the skincare products can prompt the purchase of some eyewear or, perhaps, a wallet. Small accessories lead to the purchase of some of the brand’s clothing, and so the obsession grows.

This is the same progression that led me to have a heated debate with my financial advisor recently. I tried to argue that the purchase of a lambskin Prada jacket (on sale!) had been a wise investment decision. I came away thinking that, while I may die penniless thanks to my years of expensive grooming and tasteful sartorial choices, an open casket was at least going to be a feast for the eyes.

Grooming has evolved, and it’s fascinating to see how our product knowledge, as well as the range available to us, has grown exponentially in the recent past. In my youth, it was considered “excessive” if one’s interest in fragrances extended beyond Axe body spray, and the practice of moisturising (especially when done in a public space such as a gym changeroom) would be met with eye-rolls and more than one suspicious side-glance. Fast-forward to today: Dopp kits are overflowing with the most incredible assortment of fragrances, hair gels, and skincare products. The same gym changeroom now has us jostling for positions in front of the mirror, hoping to get the spot with the best lighting, so we can apply our peptide-rich under-eye cream, or for the spot nearest to the power point, so that we can plug in our ghd.

I recently overheard a hilarious post-workout conversation, where one guy was trying to convince his gym buddy of the wonders of a new hyaluronic-acid serum that his girlfriend had put him onto. We often speak about a brave new world but, in the realm of grooming, men are truly becoming ever bolder.

1 Add antioxidants Help the skin combat environmental aggressors by introducing antioxidants into your grooming routine through serums. These work together with your sunscreen to protect the skin from signs of ageing and cell DNA damage caused by free radicals. NeoStrata Skin Active Antioxidant Defense Serum, 30ml, R968

2 Seek vitamin C Yo u m a y n o t w a n t t h e a l l - o u t g l o w t h a t so many women covet, but a little bit of radiance goes a long way towards having a healthier-looking skin. Whether in your serum or in your moisturiser, always look out for vitamin C, which has skin-brightening, anti-ageing, and antioxidant protective properties. SVR Hydracid C20 Radiance Anti-oxidant Anti-wrinkle Concentrate, 30ml, R720, available at Clicks

3 Protect against pollution Masking should be a part of your grooming routine already, but try to re a l l y e n f o rc e y o u r s k i n ’s d e f e n c e s b y switching it up with an anti-pollution mask. Look out for ingredients such as vitamin C, algae, niacinamide, coriander, and green tea, which help to strengthen the skin barrier as well a s p re v e n t p o l l u t i o n a d h e s i o n . K i e h l ’s C i l a n t ro & O ra n g e E x t ra c t Po l l u t a n t Defending Masque, 100ml, R700

4 Don’t hesitate — hydrate Daily water intake is as important for your bodily functions as it is for your skin. Stop dehydration from making your skin an easy target for premature ageing, harsh environmental conditions, barrier damage, and pollutants by using a hyaluronic-acid-rich skin booster daily. Vichy Mineral 89 Fortifying and Plumping Daily Booster, 50ml, R450

4 ways to beat the climate

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1. CLARINS MEN SUPER MOISTURE BALM, 50ML, R430; CLARINS MEN SUPER MOISTURE GEL, 50ML, R430; CLARINS MEN SUPER MOISTURE LOTION, 50ML, R430 2 . R E M I N GTO N R E V E A L FAC I A L C L E A N S I N G B R U S H , R1 399, AVAILABLE AT CLICKS 3. DERMACEUTIC MELA PEEL FORTE MEDIUM CHEMICAL PEEL SYSTEM, FROM R1 800, DEPENDING ON CLINIC 4. DERMALOGICA PRO P O W E R P E E L 3 0 T R E AT M E N T, R 6 5 0 , A V A I L A B L E AT DERMALOGICA CONCEPT STORES

E XPERT'S CORNER: SKIN 1. What are some of the best ways for men to determine their skin type? Examine your pore size and note whether the skin secretes oil during the day. The bigger the pores, the oilier the skin will be; the smaller the pores, the drier the skin will be. An oilier skin is also prone to blackheads. A combination skin will have an oilier T-zone, with larger pores; the rest of the skin will be drier with smaller pores. A sensitive skin can burn and sting with product application or when exposed to harsh elements.

Only very fair skin tones — typically people with light-blond or red hair, and blue or green eyes — can be said to be genetically sensitive. Most people have dry or oily skin that becomes sensitised. This skin condition can be caused by travel, a bad diet, and applying drying alcohols and artificial fragrance to the skin. Very few men have dry skin, as the testosterone in their bodies tends to increase oil production. However, many men will say their skin is both oily and dry. They actually have oily skin with dehydration, which is a skin condition. The same elements cause dehydration and sensitised skin. When dehydration is not fixed, it becomes sensitised skin.

2. What are the must-have grooming products for a winter arsenal?

A pH-balanced cleanser (pH 4.5 to 5.5) with a soothing ingredient such as liquorice or chamomile. A super-hydrating and soothing moisturiser containing shea butter, hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, and peptides. Lastly, a high-quality sun-protection product with SPF 30 to 50 containing aloe vera to soothe and hyaluronic acid to hydrate the skin. This is vital for every South African, as the damaging ultraviolet rays are still around in winter.

They can cause hyperpigmentation, ageing, and skin cancer.

3. Which non-surgical facial treatments would you recommend and why? Facial treatments are vital to keep your skin healthy. They aim to rectify the skin damage we incur on a daily basis. Our skin ages from the day we are born until we die, so we try to reverse this at least monthly with these treatments. The following treatments can be used year round, but you should make sure to apply the sunscreen in the days following the treatment, when your skin is busy healing.

Dermapen (micro-needling): This treatment is by far the most popular with men in my studio. A numbing cream is applied, and then an electric pen with a head of at least nine needles makes small holes in the skin to allow for optimum serum penetration and the regeneration of the skin. The skin is normally hot with a bit of redness for two days post-treatment, and then just looks better and better. It’s ideal to have a minimum of six to eight treatments done every four weeks. It’s a wonderful treatment for acne scarring, hyperpigmentation, skin sensitivity, dehydration, large pores, acne, and wrinkles.

Chemical peels: Superficial peels are normally recommended, as they involve very little to no downtime. A blend of hydroxy acids — such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, and phytic acid — is normally used. Light trichloroacetic acid peels, also known as TCA peels, are safe for even the darkest of skins. Start with a course of three to six peels in quick succession, and then repeat once every four to six weeks to maintain the results. Peels are recommended for hyperpigmentation, ageing, acne, or just maintaining a healthy skin.

Laser hair removal: This is popular among men to remove unwanted hair. Your skincare therapist will recommend an initial course based on the area and your hair growth and suggest a maintenance programme.

All these treatments should be done by a professional therapist, who will guide you as to what is best for your skin.

101

SKINCARE CAN BE A TRICKY BUSINESS, BUT NOT FOR SONETTE DONKER, FOUNDER OF LOCAL SKINCARE COMPANY SKIN ID. SHE SHARES HOW TO READ YOUR SKIN AND CREATE THE PERFECT WINTER-SKI N MAINTENANCE PLAN

PHOTOGRAPHY DAKS/TRISTAN FEWINGS/GETTY IMAGES ILLUSTRATION RICHARD BECKER ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY SUPPLIED

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fragrance

TE X T AN D PR O DU C T I O N Nokubonga T h usi

PH OTOGR APH Y Sarah De Pina and Matth ew B rookes

ON THE GROOMING SHELF: ZESTY WOODS Ease into the season with these woodybased scents that employ a shot of citrus as an opening note to awaken the senses

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Interview

1. Dolce & Gabbana The One Grey for Men, EDT, 50ml, R1 095 2. Azzaro Chrome Aqua EDT, 100ml, R1 235 3. Mont Blanc Explorer EDP, 100ml, R1 395 4. Gucci Guilty Oud, EDP, 90ml, R2 300 5. Paco Rabanne Pure XS Night, EDP, 100ml, R1 585

ALL CLOTHES AND ACCESSORIES BY DOLCE & GABBANA

C

an you tell us what it’s like to be a part of the Dolce & Gabbana Beauty family? It’s really an honour to be a part of the Dolce & Gabbana brand.

The One for Men fragrance came out more than 10 years ago, so it’s a bit of a classic at this point, isn’t it? I’ve worked with some incredible people at Dolce & Gabbana over the years, and I’m grateful to be a part of it. I always loved the brand’s fragrances. My very first perfume as a young man was a Dolce & Gabbana one, so this is coming round full circle. The original The One for Men is my favourite, but I have them all lined up in my bathroom at home. What stands out to you the most about The One Grey? I think it’s the contrast in scents that make The One Grey really quite unique. Most men’s fragrances are all one tone, but The One Grey mixes some typically feminine scents, such as lavender, with very masculine scents such as tobacco. It’s the type of fragrance that isn’t overpowering, but it’s memorable. What was it like working on the campaign for The One Grey? Shooting the campaign was great! We were in this open-air market in Naples, and the streets were full of smells and people. The locals there were wonderful: they gave the whole shoot this energy. I can’t even begin to describe it, but I think it really works well for the fragrance because that’s how the scent is — full of life. What does fragrance mean to you? I do think that smell is one of the most evocative senses. When you grow up and you find your first scent, you tend to stick with it for years. It’s a real part of your individuality and your life experience. Your partner knows you for which scent you’re wearing. I’ve always had a certain scent and The One has genuinely become my own. What’s your first memory related to fragrance? As a kid, I decided that I would make my mum a perfume so I cut down all the roses from our garden and then presented them to her. You should have seen the look on her face! “You have destroyed my rose bush. That’s a sweet thing that you’ve done, but please don’t cut my roses down again.” Would you say fragrance is important to masculinity? Generally speaking, women have far more options, from wearing jewellery to changing their look with makeup. When it comes to men, apart from a scent, you have a watch. My watch and my scent are the accessories I go through life with. What is your grooming routine? I’m not an over-groomer but I’ve gotten better since I’ve been acting. I’ve started to use moisturisers — that’s about as far as it goes. My dad swears by water and it seems to work pretty well, so I splash my face with it. In a lot of ways, my face is my trade, so I have to think about it.

What are your travel essentials? My Dolce & Gabbana fragrance and a wash bag with a toothbrush, toothpaste, a moisturiser, and a beard trimmer to make sure my beard doesn’t get too out of control. Generally, I always overpack: I end up going for five days and can’t figure out what to pack. I just chuck my whole wardrobe in and often still don’t get it right, which means I have to buy more stuff once I’m there and get another bag for the way back. I’m definitely not a good packer.

Do you have a plan post Game of Thrones?

Right now, I plan to relax at my house in the countryside — it’s the place I feel most at home. What souvenirs did you take after the show ended? My gloves — the rest was taken from me! I think all the props will be in a museum somewhere one day.

Actor Kit Harrington the face of Dolce & Gabbana The One for Men and an avid collector of the frag rance line — shares his deepest sentiments about scent and The One Grey

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interview TE X T M atthew M c C l ure

SO UND L IKE A B IB LO PHIL E

J

ack Ginsberg meets me in the Wits Art Museum (WAM) boardroom on a blustery autumn morning in April to chat about the newly established Jack Ginsberg Centre for Book Arts, which has created quite a stir in Joburg’s arts and culture community.

Ginsberg is a formidable supporter of the arts. Through the Ampersand Foundation, he has provided funding for local artistic talent through the granting of the Ampersand Fellowship Award, which allows artists to experience the cultural delights of New York as a way of building their careers and exposing them to international art trends.

His passion for all things book is infectious. Until recently, the massive collection of more than 3 000 artists’ books and 3 500 books about artists’ books was housed at his private home.

He smiles as he remembers how many visiting academics and researchers from all over the world popped in over the years to research items in his vast collection, which is now housed at WAM in a custom-designed space equipped

by Steed & Associates with world-class display vitrines and shelving units in a bright crayola yellow.

The exhibition currently on display, about 600 items curated by Ross Cleaver, David Paton, and Ginsberg himself, is a relatively small sample of the main collection, the totality of which is simply too large to exhibit concurrently.

“We’ve got ideas for about 50 exhibitions,” he elaborates, as he outlines how this will allow the curators and the museum to give members of the public the opportunity to appreciate the huge diversity of the books.

The centre is the only one of its kind in Africa and Ginsberg visited similar

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The bibliophile

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BSOs Book-sculpted objects.

Broadside A single-page book, often made from handmade paper and printed letterpress.

Leporello A book that unfolds to a considerable length, made up of a single, continuous piece of paper.

Art monograph An art book devoted to a single artist.

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1 .T H E B E C A R E F U L P O P- U P B O O K , I F Y O U LO O K H A R D E N O U G H Y O U C A N S E E Y O U R F U T U R E , S T E P H E N H O B B S ( B O O K A RT I ST ) , I N G R I D S C H I N DA L L , ( CO N C E P T UA L I S E D BY ) DAV I D K R U T P R OJ E C T S , S A 2. MIRROR, CAROLEE CAMPBELL 1986 3 . L E AV I N G S J U L I E C H E N , F L Y I N G F I S H P R E S S , U S A 1 9 9 7

The Jack Ginsberg Centre for Book Arts at WAM is a unique addition to Joburg’s cultural landscape institutions abroad, including the ones at Yale and Harvard universities and at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London in preparation for its planning.

Excitingly, visitors will, by appointment, be allowed to page through and

handle certain items from the collection.

Gloves will, of course, be needed for special books.

His favourite book? “It’s a first edition of TS Eliot’s The Waste Land, signed by Eliot, printed letterpress at the Officina

Bodini (one of the great presses in Italy), with a designer binding by Philip Smith, renowned as a pre-eminent artist in this field,” Ginsberg says. “It’s really got everything. It’s not often that all of that comes together in one book.”

Livre de Peinture A unique book painted by an artist.

TRADE EDITION A facsimile of an artists’ book, more readily commercially available than the expensive original.

The current exhibition of artists’ books and books about artists’ books is open to the public until 6 July, so don’t miss your opportunity to appreciate these works of art for yourself. wits.ac.za/wam

books COMPI LE D BY Nothemba Mk h ondo

BESTSELLING, PRIZE-WINNING WRITER SIMON SEBAG MONTEFIORE, WHO RECENTLY ATTENDED THE FRANSCHHOEK LITERARY FESTIVAL, SHARES FIVE BOOKS THAT HAVE LEFT THEIR MARK

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THE GOLDFINCH Donna Tar t t

A novel of stolen art, fakery, character, family, and loneliness. It is a masterpiece of sheer beauty that reflects on the nature of love and art — just unforgettable.

TINKER TAILOR SOLDIER SPY J oh n l e C a rré

One of the brilliant novels starring George Smiley the British spy master. This purports to be a “spy novel”, but actually it is a masterpiece of characterisation, plotting, and mood that asks the great questions about honour, loyalty, and revenge.

W

arren Siebrits collects for a living. The Johannesburg-based art dealer has an uncanny knack for finding hidden gems (from ceramics to paintings and beyond) at auctions or in thrift shops — buying them up and selling them on for profit.

While he doesn’t collect vinyl for monetary gain, it’s part and parcel of a fascination with curating beautiful objects d’art.

I got to know Siebrits 22 years ago when I was commissioned to write a piece on an exhibition in his curious gallery space in Rosebank. The show, titled TFI: Techno Factory Invention, merged two of his principal passions: art (in the form of references to Warhol, his Factory, and a side-gig as record sleeve designer) and vinyl (some visually striking and very rare records from Detroit techno-producer and DJ Jeff Mills).

An added layer of meaning emerged intrinsically in the form of the “gallery” — two adjoining shop windows in the suburb’s shopping district, metres from the now-defunct CD Warehouse. It was called Gallerie Metroplex, a clever play on concepts of urban sprawl and consumerism (it was, quite literally, in a shopping mall), but also music: Metroplex is the name of a record label run by the pioneer of techno music, Juan Atkins.

It’s great to catch up with Siebrits again to discuss this part of his persona — we both share a love of record collecting in similar genres: post-punk, new wave, synth-pop, Detroit techno, Chicago house. Likewise, our passion is both sonic and graphic — a record’s sleeve artwork is as important as what sings inside.

MARCEL PROUST R e m e m b ra n c e o f T h i n g s P a st

RED CAVALRY Is a a c B a b el

Dazzling, witty, and outrageous. The writing has a transcendent beauty, and in Proust’s understanding of humanity, of character, of perversity and ambition, and the passing of time, its genius remains invincible.

music

TE X T Greg Bowes

PH OTOGR APH Y Alon Skuy

CONFESSIONS OF A VINYL COLLECTOR W E S A T D O W N W I T H A R T- D E A L E R WA R R E N SIEBRITS TO HEAR HIS SPIN ON HIS OTHER C O L L E C T I N G PA S S I O N — R E C O R D S

I didn’t get to ogle his collection, which is perhaps best for my mental health (I don’t need that much envy in my life). Even after a substantial spring clean there are still thousands. Siebrits laughs at how they’re now stored, in chronological order — a nod to the film High Fidelity.

“The process is the same,” he tells me about his collecting — and what hasn’t changed in the two-plus decades since I first wrote about him. “It’s about trying to understand a picture of somebody you admire’s creative trajectory — someone you think is worthy of spending time and trouble thinking

CAIRO TRILOGY N a gu ib M a h f o u z

The amazing stories of a Jewish writer riding out with the brutish cavalry in the Russian civil war by one of the 20th century’s greatest Soviet writers. Odessa Stories, the stories of Jewish gangster bosses in Odessa, is also phenomenal.

The Arab Tolstoy. These three novels tell the story of a Cairene family across the turbulent 20th century. The characters live as if they are alive, as if their actions are not just invented, but ordained. One of the greatest trilogies ever written.

about — and very quickly you realise that person is not sitting in a vacuum.

If you’re going to take [the likes of] Jeff Mills seriously, you’ve got to look at their friends and colleagues, the labels they run, the things they support. Very quickly it becomes an interconnected framework of ideas.

“What people are doing with their creativity is they are thinking aloud, through making music, or doing a drawing, or making a skateboard deck, or a comic, or whatever one collects,” Siebrits says. “I collect largely to try to understand that bigger picture. The other things are secondary — like whether or not it’ll be worth money in the future.”

It’s an interesting time to be a record collector: 10 years ago, you couldn’t give away vinyl, but today it’s a thriving business — 10-million records were sold in 2018 — and this doesn’t count second-hand sales via massive online maketplaces such as Discogs.

In the wake of the closures of “name” South African physical music stores over the past decade (Look & Listen, the aforementioned CD Warehouse), there are now dozens of independent record shops countrywide. Even Musica stocks vinyl — at preposterous new and imported prices.

This boom is possibly a backlash to the rise of streaming services such as Spotify, Apple Music, and YouTube, and what’s revealing about the resurgence, Siebrits reckons, is that “It’s a synopsis of the drive inside the collector — trying to re-piece together a physical puzzle of what interests them.”

Choice pieces of wax containing

what Siebrits calls “township funk” — South Africa’s bubblegum, Shangaan disco, and kwaito periods — now regularly sell for €100 or more (mainly in Europe) and that has spawned a healthy market for reissued versions.

“It’s one of those weird anomalies in time and space,” Siebrits says. “It was pre-digital and vinyl was about to die, so these releases sat unwanted in sale bins. You can’t just get them on YouTube or Shazam — they’re not there.

This is what interests people now: this stuff that’s fallen through the cracks.”

Siebrits reveals that offloading “three or four thousand” records last year wasn’t easy. “It’s like severing an arm or something. But I realised I am a specialist, at the end of the day, and I’d rather sit on the things that I really love — about 10 artists that I was always interested in and am still interested in. I’d rather just focus my attention on them.”

Siebrits’ entire career is predicated on a love of music in physical form. “It all started when we started collecting records. It helps having good taste, because you end up buying stuff off the 4AD catalogue or Cabaret Voltaire records, and five years later there are retrospectives of Vaughan Oliver [founder of design studio 23 Envelope, whose work for 4AD and acts such as the Pixies made them so graphically memorable] and Neville Brody [designer of sleeves for Cabaret Voltaire and more] and Peter Saville [sleeves for Factory Records and artists like Joy Division] and you realise, ‘I didn’t just buy a record there — I bought a piece of cultural history. I bought a piece of art.’”

Available in store and online www.polo.co.za @polosouthafrica

whisky

TE X T Dram the M an

I LLUSTR ATI ON R i chard Becker

COLLECTING THE DOTS

T

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ake just about anything, put it under a microscope, get right in there and record your findings, collate the data, find a pattern — and you’ll inevitably make greater sense of it. In theory, the more you investigate a mystery, the less mysterious it becomes.

In theory. But the great enigmas are above all that. These slippery, elusive shapeshifters confront the beholder by reforming in plain sight, leaving crumbs that lead deep into the woods, down disappearing paths, off a cliff, into the abyss.

Which is where — in pursuit of a blanket rationale that governs whisky collecting — I find myself. It sounds dramatic, but a great many drams down, slouched on a couch as This Mortal Coil blasts over me, at the end of an investigation into this cryptic phenomenon, it’s all I’ve got. The couch in question sits in the sty of Theo Buchler, one of three specimens I’ve been interrogating. Since he’s an inimitable Whisky Pig, he’s been plying me with some truly wonderful spirit as we soak up the sounds of mid-’80s 4AD. I’ve trod on odd sod to this point. In an attempt to catch collecting squarely in the headlights, I pursued a common connection between “things” and the resultant “meaning” they give their captors when displayed together. It doesn’t exist.

Theo’s logic differs vastly from fellow collector Segan Haripersad’s, who, in turn has little in common with the evidently anonymous Mr J. My three sample cases are all highly articulate, thoughtful, considered, and compelling, but despairingly divergent when it comes to explaining their chosen path — and where it leads.

They did, however, all set off from a place of love. “You need to be a consumer first,” says Mr J. “You can’t be an investor if you haven’t engaged with what you’re collecting.” Segan waxes lyrical about the Balvenie 12 that shifted things for him, and Theo likens an early encounter with Lagavulin to hearing London Calling for the first time as a teenager. The switch was flipped. The lights were on. And soon after, the hunt began.

Segan, whose prior trading record included commodities and crypto currency, became very serious about getting to the bottom of this alluring drink.

He peeled away layers, examined details, and attempted to track the thousands of nuances swirling around in the engineered glassware he’d imported from Australia to conduct his experiments. Since he’s a software analyst with a numbers-driven mind, initial attempts to rate his pours were graph-based, until he conceded that whisky was an ambiguous bastard that hated being quantified.

“The devil is in the detail,” he smiles, suggesting how much he enjoys grappling with this deceptive demon. Segan is a careful collector with meticulous cataloguing skills — he admires the quality-driven philosophy that informs Japanese production, while also plugging into sites such as DramData to track the trends that give him a trading edge. Right now, his preferences are for the peculiar, with a desire to one day acquire items like the GlenDronach Star Wars series or a Karuizawa Emerald Geisha set.

The quest to find a common cause for whisky collecting ended in complete failure.

Nothing is true, ever ything is permitted

With an abundance of entrepreneurial DNA coursing through his veins, Mr J was bitten by the collecting bug way back, amassing wine and watches before whisky. For him, it’s a long game: “If you invest, you don’t only need money, you also need time. And ideally an abundance of both.” But beyond his talk of projections, plans and profits, I sense an eye that not only sees opportunity, but also appreciates the finessed form.

There are dual forces driving his approach. One seeks financial satisfaction and the other desires beauty and originality. “Any millionaire can go to a big chain store and buy a collection,” he claims. “But it’s more than that.” For Mr J, it’s about cultivating that one thing — a distinct range or series — that nobody else has. This belief, fueled by ardent discipline and intense auction activity, now manifests as a formidable showing of Port Ellens and a Compass Box collection about as complete as is possible for this fleeting brand. Mr J admits to being thrilled knowing his inanimate objects are lying there, quietly growing in value, like a proud farmer whispering over his crops. He has also never sold a single bottle.

Theo, on the other hand, gives his away. When certain expressions don’t interest him, they’re carted off. His methodically mad assortment — with “big pours” beside bottles to be pored over — was started about 20 years ago when whisky was far more affordable. He became “an accidental collector” while on a quest to taste as diversely as possible. Personal predilections are paramount and dictate his selection. “When you open one of these bottles, you must make sure it’s what you like,” he toasts.

Theo’s autographed releases and piles of rare DVDs, original pressings, books, art, and graphic novels suggest a fetishist love for the atypical. He assures me these objects are primarily there to afford him the chance to revisit — to read, watch, or view again. With whisky, this means multiple bottles of the same release, not necessarily to sell, but to sit down with one day in the future and hear the story again, to “replay” a dram, like one would a favourite track, and to revel in how the perceptions have shifted, the experience has new meaning and the results have changed. He talks about the visceral rush of synapses firing as the palate explodes, of pairing movies with malt, of the supreme importance of context. Theo’s collection is more of a playground than a shrine, an interactive, reactive, organic, evolving entity. He doesn’t collect. He curates.

There are mundane anomalies within this trio. Some record bottle numbers.

Some note the batch. Some don’t catalogue, but keep a mental picture. There are varying financial limits, a host of holy grails, and different definitions of collecting. All consider themselves introvert collectors, happiest when inspecting labels or consuming quietly (or not) with close companions. None see this pursuit as something to brag about, and all scoff at the evolutionary idea that primitive man first flaunted his ability to accumulate resources as a means to mate. “It’s not like driving a Ferrari,” laughs Mr J. “You’re not going to pick someone up at a bar if you tell her you have a full Port Ellen collection back at the house.”

Nobody believes that any of this will pay for a lavish retirement. Segan’s mission is for his collection to have a self-sustaining economy, and he’s about 75% there. Mr J will happily drink any of his bottles if the occasion is right and, should there be an irreversible drop in price, he’ll extract a different kind of value by sharing its content with friends. “I’m not collecting because I think I’m going to be rich,” declares Theo as he pours me another Kilchoman. “Fuck that.”

Indeed. Fuck that. Fuck that whisky is a commodity with greater returns than blah blah blah. And no, there is no golden thread here or common vision or how-to sidebar or tips from the top. There’s an industry pumping out endless supplies of this stuff. Its market value will be determined by an untold number of influences. Its real value is how it makes you feel. And whatever you need to do to catch that feeling — be it boost your bank balance or celebrate an anniversary — is determined by what you truly need to collect. Memories. Collateral.

Dust. It’s up to you. Mystery solved.

OF DANGER AND DESIRE

SPEED, TR AGEDY, AND LEGEND ARE ALL PART OF THE PORSCHE 550 SPYDER LEGACY. BUT NOW THERE’S ANOTHER MODEL LURKING ON THE R ADARS OF SPORTSCAR AFICIONADOS — COULD IT ECLIPSE THE SPYDER?

T

motoring

T EXT T h om as Fal kine r

ILLUST RAT IO N Rich ard Be c ke r

he Porsche 550 Spyder is a sleek and relatively simplistic racing car, of which only about 90 were built between 1953 and 1956. I’ve stood before one at the Porsche Museum in Zuffenhausen, and I can tell you that it is one of the most evocative machines we humans have crafted. Lined up next to some of its comparatively extravagant rivals, the 550 Spyder represents the restrained essence of early speed: a steely reduction of engineering knowhow shaped partly by science combined with the restrained aesthetic purity that only the Germans really know how to get right.

Instead, the elaborate complexity lay inside the punchy mid-mounted quad-cam engine that helped this Porsche win events such as the 1956 Targa Florio. These are some of the obvious reasons why today, if you can find one, a 550 Spyder will set you back somewhere in the region of $6-million.

There is another reason, however, one rooted in a much murkier subtext. Through no fault of its own, this two-seater racing car will forever be associated with the death of Hollywood heartthrob James Dean. The avid motorsport fan was driving his newly acquired 550 Spyder from Los Angeles to a competition up in Salinas, California in 1955, when he was killed en route after colliding with a truck that accidently turned across his path.

The wreck of his car, nicknamed “Little Bastard”, became shrouded in infamy. Dean’s Porsche was

posthuously linked to a string of mysterious and somewhat sinister incidents: it disappeared in 1960 — stolen, the story goes, from a container — and has never been seen since.

Now, in the time it has taken you to read the last paragraph, you’ve probably forgotten about the Spyder’s more wholesome credentials, right?

Of course you have, but, hey, that’s understandable, because humans seem strangely attracted to malevolence. The darker and more dangerous something is perceived to be, the more we seem to want it. Which is probably why another Porsche has been pinging louder and brighter on the radars of the world’s sportscar aficionados.

Unleashed in 2003, the Carrera GT is a product born largely from abortion. Its heart — a 5.7-litre V10 motor that shrieks like no other — was originally conceived for the Footwork Arrows team to use in Formula 1. Unfortunately, it never made it out onto the track. Then in the last days of the 1990s, this motor was dusted off for use in a brand-new Le Mans Prototype racing car. Again, thanks to a mixture of politics and budgetary constraints, this project was also pulled. However, this time around, Porsche wasn’t going to stick the fruits of its labour up on the shelf. Instead, the carmaker decided to use what it had — that engine plus a carbon-fibre chassis — to build what would prove to be its first true supercar.

Upon its release, the (roughly) $440 000 Carrera GT was coveted as a thing of automotive

wonder: a raw, unashamedly analogue speed machine that both challenged and rewarded its pilots in equal measure. It was void of any sophisticated driver aids and, with 450kW scorching through those rear wheels, it also demanded a healthy dose of respect, for it had no qualms about severing its handler’s fingers — no matter how experienced they happened to be. Veteran rally racer and Porsche test-driver Walter Röhrl said of the Carrera GT: “It’s the first car in my life that I drive and I feel scared.” Jeremy Clarkson spun it and so did Jay Leno.

As the years rolled by, this Porsche slowly began to fade from the public’s mind. Especially when an exciting new generation of hybrid hypercars fronted by the likes of the McLaren P1 and Ferrari LaFerrari came into existence. But then, in 2013, it made an unexpected comeback. Much like its spiritual ancestor, the Carrera GT dominated headlines after actor Paul Walker and his friend Roger Rodas were killed in one. The fallout was nothing short of radical, with Porsche being hauled off to court upon claims that it had knowingly signed off on a car that was “dangerous” and “inherently unstable”. The global media hopped on the sensationalist gravy train, and suddenly every Buzzfeed wannabe worth its click-bait salt was rattling off listicles of the “Top 10 mostdangerous Porsches built”.

Yet, despite this funk of damnation, the Carrera GT became the next must-have collector car almost overnight. In less than a year after the accident, prices eclipsed the $500 000 mark — and now, according to car-evaluation website Hagerty, a “good” example will set you back $651 000. Coincidence? I think not. You see, infamy always comes at a price, and when applied to automobiles, that price seems to be a premium people are always willing to pay extra for. Call me a cynic, but owning a Porsche Carrera GT is no longer all about the thrill of its purist, racingderived genetics, but rather a cultural notoriety it’ll never be able to outrun. Which is why it will go on to become the 550 Spyder of my generation.

cricket

TE X T Theresa M all inson

D U P L E S S I S W E A R S : S U I T JA C K E T, R 9 4 9 5 ; S U I T T R O U S E R S , R 5 3 5 0 , B OT H PAU L S M I T H ; K N I T J E R S E Y, R 1 8 5 9 0 , B U R B E R R Y; B E LT, R 2 3 9 5 , B O S S ; PA N E R A I LU M I N O R 1 9 5 0 4 4 M A R I N A T I TA N I U M WATC H W I T H B R O W N L E AT H E R S T R A P, R 1 0 8 8 0 0 , E L E G A N C E J E W E L L E R S PA N E R A I B O U T I Q U E

Most fashionable Cricket World Cup XI

PH OTOGR APH ER Travy s Owen

Come the end of the Cricket World Cup, armchair analysts will be spoilt for choice when drafting their tournament XIs. We set ourselves a tougher challenge: picking the most-fashionable XI. And, after a couple of obvious inclusions  Faf du Plessis, Virat Kohli  we were stumped.

Hours spent trawling cricketers’ Instagram profiles revealed a penchant for what may be charitably described as “athleisure”, as well as an inexplicable fondness for aviator sunglasses. Here’s our final selection of World Cup players who are at least attempting to cultivate a sense of style.

Fabian Allen. We’re here for the Windies’ bowler’s mohawk, whether it’s bleached blond or dyed to match his kit du jour. MS Dhoni. The erstwhile Indian captain is probably a sentimental selection. But Dhoni has never been shy to experiment with his hair, from the long locks of his youth to his current retro V hawk. He also can rock a leather jacket. Hamid Hassan. The Afghani bowler is a cult hero due to his Rambo-style bandana. Eighties cheese seems back in fashion, so who are we to criticise? Virat Kohli. The Indian captain is the co-owner of clothing brand Wrogn. And his facial grooming is on fleek.

Enough said. Lasith Malinga. We’re including the Sri Lankan bowler purely for his trademark, blond-tipped curly locks. Shoaib Malik. The Pakistani batsman describes himself as “dapper with a D”. Fair enough, he manages not to look uncomfortable in a suit  unlike most sportsmen. Hardik Pandya. Indian cricket’s king of bling can pull off several looks. But his gold chain and diamond studs are ever-present. Oh, and he has more than sixmillion Instagram followers. Faf du Plessis. The South African captain is well known for his sharp dress sense. We reckon he could try modelling after retiring from cricket. Kagiso Rabada. The “gazelle of doom” has really upped his fashion game recently. Another one who looks good in a suit. KL Rahul.

The Indian batsman is co-owner of the streetwear brand Gully Live Fast. And, with almost three-million Instagram followers, he’s a bona-fide influencer.

Andre Russell. The Windies all-rounder rocks his Indian Premier League “pyjama” kit, and boasts an inimitable cricketer-meets-superhero aesthetic.

“E

very day it starts with the sneakers,” says sneaker enthusiast Tusa Mamba.

He boasts a personal collection of nearly 350 pairs and he’s pretty serious about his sneaker game. The recently released Nike Air Max Tailwind IV, which he’s sporting when we meet, proves exactly that.

“What’s not to like? I think it’s a personality thing. Like, if I meet a person, the first thing I look at is their sneakers. I think they let you express yourself and they’re a point of difference,” Mamba says.

Scrolling through his Instagram feed, you get a taste of just how vast and varied his collection is — and you’ll be hardpressed to find him wearing anything other than a pair of sneakers on his feet. From clean classics, to the ever-trending “dad” silhouette, and even audacious — yet very cool — leopard print and orange Air Max 90s, Mamba’s penchant for sneakers is far-reaching.

“You want to get to the point where you have everything — like for every outfit you have, you’ve got the perfect sneakers for it.

But that never happens so you just keep getting more and more,” he laughs. “And they’re dropping more and more stuff as time goes by — you can’t really keep up.”

But when it comes to sneakers, “hype” is not really Mamba’s MO. Beyond the latest must-haves that leave most sneaker-heads lining up outside stores, Mamba has developed a discerning taste for his footwear of choice. He cites Jordan 1s, Air Force 1s, and Air Max 1s as his classics and the only three pairs of sneakers you need to pack for a trip — if you’re pressed for space.

His love of sneakers kicked off with a pair of Nikes his mother bought him when he was young. “In early primary school I had these Nikes that my mother got for me and I’d just always wear them. I stayed in a small town so I always knew if we were going out to a big town or even to church, I’d wear them then,” he says.

Mamba’s obsession with sneakers has come a long way, and so has the sneaker world itself. With the rise of streetwear and its increasing stake in culture, sneakers have become serious business.

Mamba saw a gap in the local market to turn his longstanding relationship with sneakers into a business opportunity. He went from being a sneaker collector to a highly respected and followed purveyor of sneakers and streetwear when he opened his own sneaker and apparel store, Dipstreet.

Ask anyone who buys sneakers locally and they’ll know about Dipstreet. Mamba used his own love and knowledge of sneaker

J

űrgen Klopp may not have succeeded in grabbing the holy grail for Liverpool, the elusive English Premier League gong. But the German has done stunning work in stirring the loins of a lion who roared loudest when the Merseysiders needed him the most. Arise Sadio Mané, the lion without a Mané.

If Mohamed Salah was the main superstar for the Reds last term with 44 goals in all competitions in his debut season, Senegal striker and skipper Sadio was the Mané man for Liverpool who experienced their most superb season — sans a trophy — in their history.

The world watched in awe as Liverpool were locked in a titanic combat for the league title. The expectation was for Salah to rattle the net with astonishing gay abandon as was the case last season. But such a magical feat is hardly ever repeated.

When Salah’s goal-well momentarily turned from a fountain to a trickle — seven games without a goal — during the course of a campaign that saw them lose the title by an agonising one point (97 to Manchester City’s 98), it was Mané who took centre stage, belting top-drawer blinders.

Mané is a real all-round goal machine: of the 22 league goals he banged in, 11 strikes were with the right foot, five with the left, and six with the head. No penalties. No free-kicks. All in open play, unlike his fellow Africans — Arsenal’s Gabon goal-getter Pierre-Emerick Aubameyang and Egypt’s Salah — the duo with whom the Liverpool number 10 shares the 2018/19 EPL’s Golden Boot accolade.

The 22-goal glut is a massive improvement, 12 more than Mané’s 10 of a season ago. Mané is certainly in the form of his life.

One of the dozen is a special, if not ridiculous, back-heel scored in the 5-0 thrashing of Watford. That filthy back-heel underlined his nose for goals. Admittedly, the first touch was absolutely horrendous. But what followed was outrageously unorthodox. From six metres, with his back against the goalposts, Mané stole the show by hammering the ball home with his heel, sparking a roar that raised the roof at Anfield. It was goal from the gods. It ranks right up there with the best of the season.

Mané showed up and shored up Liverpool, especially in March, a time during which his goals ensured that Klopp’s men remained in the tailcoats of City as a most captivating championship race played out.

Of course, strikers are hired to score, but Mané’s game doesn’t end with banging the pigskin into the net. Modern football dictates are so demanding that strikers walking about when the team is defending is an element of the game that has been consigned to the dustbin. Especially if that striker plays in Klopp’s heavy-metal football anchored on three things: running, running, and running.

It is not uncommon to see the awesome threesome of Mané, Roberto Firmino, and Salah pressing their opponents high and forcing them into errors.

SPORT

SADIO, THE MANĒ MAN! The Liverpool striker has had one hell of a season

T E XT B areng- B ath o Kor tj aas/ Spor ts E ditor, Sunday T im es

Mané is often seen tracking back to defend deep in his own half, closing channels for the opponents and destabilising their build-ups. It is a ploy that works perfectly in the event of Liverpool winning back the ball and using Mané and Salah’s blistering pace in a blitzkrieg counterattack, which — more often than not — ends up in a goal at the opposing end.

The Senegal international is not without suitors as Real Madrid have identified him as a perfect candidate to help breathe life back into the fallen whites of the Santiago Bernabéu, who had a damper of a season by their lofty standards.

Those of the red persuasion will be comforted by the fact that he has signed a five-year deal lasting until 2023, worth about £150 000 a week.

“I’ve always said, when I knew I had a chance to come here, I didn’t have to think twice. The right club in the right moment and with the right coach as well. I came here and was very happy. For me, I have made the best decision in my career,” he said after crossing the t’s and dotting the i’s.

JUST FOR KICKS

Sneaker collector & streetwear curator

Tusa Mamba

is serious about kick culture TE X T Nothemba M khondo

culture to curate a unique offering and store experience to satisfy the growing need for direct access to top brands and apparel for local devotees. He tapped into the growing market of streetwear at just the right moment.

“If you’re like me, you just want to have a place where you can have a taste level,” he says. “So that’s how Dipstreet came along: it was just like a hobby that became something else.”

Now, five years later, Mamba is taking Dipstreet in a new direction.

“I’ve closed the store, we’ve gone online, and now we’re focusing on making our own clothing,” he says. “The rest of the world is taking a keen interest in South African clothing, and that’s where our focus is starting to go to now.”

Although Mamba doesn’t want to give too much away, in the coming months Dipstreet will be releasing a collection of go-to streetwear basics. “The main pieces are the tracksuit pants. They’re really comfortable, straightforward, simple track pants in cool colours, but with really, really good quality and attention to detail like imported French Terry fabric — they feel really nice on you,” he says.

Dipstreet may no longer be selling sneakers, but Mamba will always be into his kicks.

25

health

TE X T Sanet Oberhol zer

I LLUSTR ATI ON Cari ke De Ja ger

With a vast selection of sperm donors, making a choice as a future parent can be daunting

T

The cost of sperm

The cost of local sperm will vary depending on which bank is being used and how many samples are being purchased. A unit of sperm will cost anywhere between R1 800 and R3 000 • To import sperm is very expensive.

The starting price of a single sperm sample imported from the US is anywhere from $700 to $1 000. This excludes import costs of about $895 and South African import tax of about 16%. Importing a single vial of sperm can cost about R30 000, give or take • One straw of sperm for an intra-cytoplasmic sperm injection (the direct injection of sperm into eggs obtained from in-vitro fertilisation) will set you back R8 000, while intrauterine insemination will come to R15 000 • Under the Tissue Act, sperm cannot be bought but sperm donors can be componsated for their time and costs involved with donating, e.g. travel costs. The maximim a donor can be componsated for is R1,000 which is the going rate for most banks at the moment.

Y

ou’ve made it. Somehow you managed to do everything right and you’re in the bedroom getting steamy. It’s understandable that the throes of passion may bring about some sartorial nonchalance, but if you go about it by ripping your shirt off so that buttons fly in all directions, she (or he) may be more keen to push you out the door than onto those cotton sheets. Undressing should always be done in a way that leaves your dignity and your chances intact.

Down to a T? Don’t be left standing in your T-shirt and socks like a toddler on the beach. This is not an image of unbridled sex appeal.

Start by taking off your shoes and socks. If you’ve misinterpreted her “get comfortable” and thrown off your pants and undies, you can’t really back-peddle. Only men like an eager beaver — most women prefer to take things slow. Remove your watch and jewellery next. (If you’re wearing a mafioso-style chain, it’s amazing you got this far.)

These items are the ones that are the most awkward for her to take off. Once they’re discarded, she can jump in and do the rest — slowly or with wild abandon while kissing you hotly on every new bit of exposed skin.

Cast off and ready to launch If she’s enjoying watching you take it all off yourself, casually shrug off your shirt next. Remember to surreptitiously suck and flex your tummy, particularly if you’re better at drinking than sculpting your six pack. Unbutton your shirt from the top down, not too slowly like you’re performing burlesque,

FINAL WORD

THE EDIT MAN’S GUIDE

To getting undressed TE X T AND R EA NAG E L

$15-MILLION

The proceeds from the auction of the late pop star George Michael’s collection in 2019.

$832-MILLION

The estimated number of objects housed in the city of Glasgow’s Pollok Park. In 1944, Scotsman William Burrell bequeathed his entire collection to Glasgow, his hometown, on condition that a suitable spot be found in the city, far enough away from air pollution. Pollok Park it was.

The world-record amount for the most valuable private (mostly fine) art collection ever sold — that of David and Peggy Rockefeller. The sale was held at Christie’s New York in 2018, with proceeds going to 11 of the Rockefeller family’s charitable endowments.

$3-BILLION

The world-record amount fetched during the 2008 Christie’s New York auction of the collection of Yves Saint Laurent and his partner, Pierre Bergé. The sale comprised a huge collection of fine art, ranging from Impressionist to contemporary, as well as decorative art objects and furniture.

8 000

The disappointing amount Taubman’s collection fetched when it went on sale in New York in 2015. $32-MILLION

The number of items Hearst sold off from his collection in 1941, for an undisclosed sum. The collection was still big enough to form four separate bequests to institutions after Hearst’s death.

$500-MILLION

The value of the art Hearst sold off in 1937 to see him through the Depression. That is about $194-million today.

The estimated value of the collection of the former chairman of Sotheby’s auctions A Alfred Taubman.

$377-MILLION

Private art collections, by definition, are not obliged to reveal how much is achieved through their sales — unless the owner is dead, and their estate sells at auction or the collector isn’t bothered who knows how much money they have. But the big collections — the really big collections — have hit some spectacular numbers, most of them fairly recently, in what are truly salad days for the art market. Here’s a trawl through some interesting art history

$11-MILLION

T EXT Jam e s S ey

The percentage of the global art market that US publishing and newspaper tycoon Randolph William Hearst was estimated to own — on his own! — in the 1920s and ’30s.

$483-MILLION

Sell ing p r i vate A R T COLLECT IONS

25%

BY NUMBERS

20 000

26

he picture of a sperm bank with a fluorescent-lit corridor leading into a seedy room containing a sexy magazine with caked-together pages is rather unromantic.

For many couples and single women wishing to start a family, this is where their parenting dreams are born. I find myself waiting in a small but elegant reception area at Vitalab Fertility Clinic in Morningside, Sandton. In a room that opens up through an arch in the wall, I see patients sitting on chairs. I imagine some of them to be parents hoping for a second child, while others are exploring their last option to be parents at all, teetering on the emotional edge of giving up.

I am met by Marisa Marais, the head of the andrology laboratory at Vitalab and the Vitalab Cryobank South Africa sperm bank. She leads me to a small room of the laboratory filled with tubes and equipment I have never seen before.

At the beginning of 2018, Vitalab decided to import a selection of sperm samples from the California Cryobank in the US, considered worldwide to have a premier donor programme. Sperm banks have been in South Africa for about 30 years; however, the sperm banks overseas are much bigger because of a greater demand.

“We wanted to give our patients a bigger selection of donors,” Marais says. “The international banks have been doing it for much longer and what we realised is that their screenings are unbelievable and the quality of the donors we receive from them is very good. They also have a massive variety of ethnic groups.”

Marais says the company’s newly acquired sperm bank is doing very well. Patients also have the option of sourcing sperm from local and international banks and Vitalab is in the process of starting to source local donors. Essentially, this will provide potential parents with endless possibilities when it comes to choosing a donor.

Francesca Bazzini, a mother of a six-month-old baby girl, says the decision is overwhelming. As a single woman, Bazzini wanted to have a baby of her own. She considered freezing her eggs — a process that would’ve cost between R100 000 and R200 000 — and even considered adoption, but eventually she decided on going the route of artificial insemination using donor sperm.

Bazzini went through Vitalab for the process, shortly before it bought and imported its donor sperm samples at the beginning of 2018. She was advised to import sperm from the California Cryobank and was happy with this suggestion.

“I ended up with 450 choices. It’s a lot. I went back to my doctor and said, ‘Look, how do I choose this?’” He suggested Bazzini look at the genetic profile, her family history, and the donor’s family history, as well as his psychological history. Eventually, she made a selection of three donors, from whom she chose a final one.

While international sperm banks offer great quality and variety, some patients ask specifically for local donors. “What I have noticed is that many patients don’t choose European sperm banks, for example, in Denmark. A few patients have told me that blond hair, blue eyes, and light skin isn’t very South African,” Marais says.

THE BANG BANK: HOW TO GET THE BEST SPERM FOR YOUR BUCK

However, Marais says some of her patients have asked specifically for Danish sperm. “I always recommend the Danish sperm banks (there are two banks) to my patients because of the quality of their samples, which is very important.”

Ultimately, more than sought-after genetics, the sperm has to be of a good quality to swim and result in a pregnancy — even after having been frozen.

Sitting behind his desk at Medfem Fertility Clinic, where he is a founding member and director, Dr Antonio Rodrigues says it doesn’t have a big sperm bank because the clinic struggles to find good donors. Rodrigues, who is an expert in the field of fertility, has been in the industry for 27 years. Medfem tries to maintain a local sperm bank for its patients. “At the moment, we’ve only got eight donors across all the race groups,” Rodrigues says. “However, from a cost point of view, the South African sperm is cheaper and we have very nice donors. There’s nothing wrong with South African sperm, that’s for sure.”

Aevitas Fertility Clinic in Cape Town is one of the South African sperm banks with a greater selection of local sperm donors. Greg Tinney, the laboratory director and an embryologist at Aevitas, says if a patient can’t find specifically what they’re looking for, or if they’re set on using a specific donor from overseas, the patient will need to pay the excessive costs for sperm to be imported.

When it comes to choosing a sperm donor, the choice is patient-specific. Some will emphasise physical appearance, others academic achievements, and others family medical history.

The specialists I spoke to say the majority of patients will look for a donor of their race, but there are some who specifically choose a donor of a different race.

For Bazzini, her only prerequisite was that the donor she chose was open, meaning her daughter will have the option to contact him once she turns 18. Rodrigues says the demand for international donors is coming from single women who want this option, because in South Africa sperm donations are anonymous. Marais says, despite some specific requests she’s come cross, few people are extremely selective. “At the end of the day they just want a baby.”

Rodrigues agrees. “It is such a lovely thing to do. Not everyone can hand out their sperm, but for the people who can, they feel very good about helping and I must say the people who receive that sperm are very grateful.” For Bazzini, it’s an option she would recommend. “It’s the best decision I ever made,” she says. Despite the trials of single parenthood, she has a great support structure and choosing to go the donor-sperm route allowed her to fulfil her heart’s desire of being a mother.

The estimated worth of the private collection of art collecting and dealing brothers Ezra and David Nahmad in the US, including 300 works by Picasso alone valued at $1-billion.

The proceeds from the auction of the late rock-star David Bowie’s rather modest collection of modern British — and some South African — art in 2016

but not too quickly so that you get tied up in your shirt sleeves either.

If you’re wearing a T-shirt, pull it up over your head from behind in a manly one-handed spine grab, and not with two hands from the front over your chest. Remember you may have some flab to conceal and (hopefully) no breasts to distract her. Suck in and flex. Suck in and flex.

Pant-o-mime The trouser department is the make or break moment. Buttons, belts, and zips stand in the way. As much as your pants may protest, battle through the multifarious fasteners to finish this penultimate process with refinement and grace. Don’t even think about enlisting dance moves to help you squirm out of your skinny jeans. Women can carry off the odd alluring wiggle or pivot thanks to their feminine curves and innate slinkiness. Mostly, men cannot. A hop or two may elicit a tension-breaking giggle if your comic timing is perfect. Stand to unfasten; sit on the bed to slip off.

She may want to help you in the final hurdle by pushing you into the prone position and grabbing from the ankle.

The final reveal The buttock is an interesting and curious body part because when developed it can be delightfully curved, with edges and dents, but when left unattended it sinks, it sags, it gets flat — aka the old-man ass. If this is you, under no circumstances stand or lie with your back to her until you’re safely in the bed sheets with the lights off. Likewise, she’s probably more interested in what your trouser snake can do than in how it looks. It’s safer to keep undies on until she removes them in whichever way she chooses.

WHISKY

THE GLENLIVET SALUTES THE EDIT MAN THE DEFINITIVE SPEYSIDE S I N G L E M A LT S I N C E 1 8 2 4

Not for Persons Under the Age of 18.

Enjoy Responsibly.