4. ED’S LETTER 6. TRENDS desert flower 8. TRENDS making waves 12. TRENDS colour me bold 14. TRENDS into the wild 16. BEAUTY news 17. FRAGRANCE golden hour 18. BEAUTY island style 20. MAN must-haves 22. TRENDS the road less travelled 24. TRENDS acid trip 26. GROOMING news 27. FRAGRANCE beyond the sea 30. STOCKISTS fashion 32. THE LAST RESORT a tropical escape
FIRE WALK WITH ME roadhouse check-in 48. FEATURE sex & cigarettes by daniella midenge
FEATURE azzedine alaïa, a life celebrated 53. FEATURE the perfect summer 54. FEATURE jozi through new eyes
70. FEATURE maddalena de padova 72. LIGHTING THE WAY vibey eindhoven
MY LIFE ILLUSTRATED moonchild sanelly
CORSET, R5 200; FEATHERED SKIRT, R9 500; APRON, R3 800, ALL MARIANNE FASSLER; HAT, R7 150, GIORGIO ARMANI; BAG, R36 000, LOUIS VUITTON; BANGLES FROM R3 599 TO R6 999, ALL AMERICAN SWISS
Colour is the clarion call this season, with citrus-bright and rich desert hues turning up the heat on long, sun-filled days
TWIST BLOSSOM BAG, R60 500, LOUIS VUITTON
desert flower Alberta Ferretti’s desert-inspired, sandyhued, easy-going silhouettes, and sheer, floating layers are the key to keeping you cool all season long
7. SANDALS, R749, CHARLES & KEITH 8. VISOR, R354, MIMCO 9. SKIRT, R890, JOTA KENA 10. TROUSERS, R880, JOTA KENA 11. BELT, R299, MAT & MAY
12. LONGINES 1945 WATCH, R21 000, ARTHUR KAPLAN JEWELLERS 13. BAG R59 800, GUCCI
14. SANDALS, R749, CHARLES & KEITH
Harilal
JESSICA
making waves JW Anderson gives a nod to the nautical for the beach season, with washed-out cotton and linen featuring pops of citrus, playful stripes, and romantic ruffles
1. JUMPSUIT, R799, POETRY 2. TOWEL, R349, COTTON ON 3. SWIMSUIT, R200, MRP 4. WATCH, R650, SWATCH 5. DRESS, R429, H&M 6. TIGERLILY BIKINI, R600, DARK PARADISE 7. BLOUSE, R249, H&M 8. BELT, R299, MAT & MAY 9. VISOR, R980, THE REAL CRYSTAL BIRCH 10. RAY-BAN SUNGLASSES, R2 590, SUNGLASS HUT 11. BAG, R699, TRENERY 12. SANDALS, R699, CHARLES & KEITH 13. BAG, R3 990, FOLLI FOLLIE 14. RUFFLE TOP, R179, H&M 15. CAMISOLE, R129, H&M 16. SHOES, R790, VELDSKOEN
Celebrating all things festive
Introducing To ry Burch now exclusively available at DORE.
Sandton - Stor e U73, Sandton City, Sandton Drive, Te l +27 11 783 7316/7/ 8
Mall of Africa - Stor e 2004, Wa t erfall City, Magwa Cres, Midrand, Te l +27 11 052 2381
www.dor efashion.co.za do re fashions a
Summer 17 explores the “eureka moment” wh ere ideas begin to come to light and individuals at wo rk tread between bolts of inspiration, impulsi ve ness and frustration.
colour me bold Tory Burch’s latest collection makes an effortless yet eye-catching statement with bold, colour-block stripes and punchy, citrus hues on long languid silhouettes
into the wild Tod’s urban-safari wardrobe of rich, tactile fabrics; neutral, earthy tones; and exotic-skin accessories invites you to ease into summer in style
5. SWIMSUIT, R200, MRP 6. BRONX SANDALS, R359, ZANDO 7. SHORTS, R1 890, CASLAZUR 8. BELT, R250, POETRY 9. HOODED DRESS, R450, WOOLWORTHS 10. TROUSERS, R499, OLD KHAKI 11. SANDALS, R599, GREEN CROSS 12. BACKPACK, R599, MAT & MAY
13. BIKINI TOP, R550; BIKINI BOTTOMS, R450, BOTH BILLABONG
14. BUCKET BAG, R1 699, CHARLES & KEITH
JESSICA
www.matandmay.co.za
• CAPE: Canal Walk / Somerset Mall / Garden Route Mall, George • GAUTENG: JHB: Rosebank / Clearwaters / The Glen • PTA: Menlyn / Kollonade / Centurion / Lynwood / Wonderpark / Forest Hill / Cradlestone Mall, Krugersdorp / Waterfall Mall, Rustenburg / I’Langa Mall, Nelspruit • KZN: The Board Walk, Richards Bay / The Galleria, Amanzimtoti / Gateway Kiosk, Umhlanga Rocks / Pavilion Centre, Westville • FREE STATE: Diamond Pavilion, Kimberley / Mimosa Mall, Bloemfontein
WE’RE LOVING… 8 HOUR CREAM
Nokubonga Thusi
Beauty News
You’ll be ready for lazy days in tropical climes with these goodies in your bag
LIQUID AMBER
We are splurging on this perfectfor-balmy-days fragrance. It has the crispness of a summer scent, but the staying power of an intense oriental. The Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Amber Skin, 50ml, R 3 505, settles effortlessly onto the skin, moving from notes of myrrh and Iris concrete into dry woody notes.
ON THE EDITOR’S SHELF
With desert sunset shades washed across eyes flooding our Instagram feeds, we couldn’t wait to play with the Urban Decay Naked Heat Palette, R850, the seventh addition to the cult brand’s eyeshadow neutrals wardrobe. This one comes as a full collection, with two gel eye liners and three lipsticks. We love all 12 shades, but our absolute favourites are the spicy terracotta hue of Cayenne and the golden red of Scorched.
We’re obsessed with the new Around the World limitededition travel packaging of the Elizabeth Arden 8 hour cream, and even more excited that we can still enjoy the same skin-saving balmy formula inside. This is a holiday essential for just about any skin concern: use on lips for a plump, hydrated look, rub into dry cuticles or rashes, or rub lightly into brows to groom, or around the eye area to add radiance and moisture. Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream Around The World With 8 Hour Skin Protectant, R285
3 Ways To … Resort Skin
1 2 3
The scent of the ocean is palpable in the Jo Malone Wood Sage and Sea Salt Hand and Body Wash, 250ml, R550. The sea salt and sage notes will make your skin smell as if you take an ocean swim every day.
Nothing says resort quite like dewy, radiant and healthy skin. The La Mer The Soft Fluid Long Wear Foundation SPF 20, R1 700, will give you just that with its intensely hydrating formula.
Summer skin is all about the glow, so elevate the high planes of the face with a dusting of the MAC Snowball Face Powder in Rose Gold, R490, an iridescent powder that can double up as a blush.
GILDED ICON
If this doesn’t get you into the holiday spirit, we don’t know what will. Chanel launches another way to enjoy the iconic No 5 scent in the form of the limited-edition Chanel No 5 Fragments D’Or, R1 530, a lightweight body gel that glides onto skin, leaving a veil of golden flecks. Great for adding a shimmer to skin on the beach or a reflective smattering on the décolletage. Use sparingly, as it is highly scented, so a little goes a long way.
getaway
TEXT
Nokubonga Thusi
IMAGES
Alexis Gilli
THE BEAUTY EDITOR’S GUIDE TO
island beauty
The island of Réunion and fiery hues are the perfect resort-beauty inspiration this season. Temper the heat by keeping your approach light and breezy
THE LOCATION You may think of places such as Hawaii or Fiji when conjuring up images of unique island destinations, but your closest bet can be found a mere four hours flight from OR Tambo International to Saint-Denis, with only a two-hour time difference when you land.
The island of Réunion is like no other — bursting with a melting pot of culture from French and Creole
influences, and an active volcano to boot. With so much diversity and humidity, this location was apt as the backdrop for the launch of the Urban Decay Naked Heat Palette.
The colour palette is a curation of every bronzed amber, rust, and burgundy eye-shadow hue you could want, and fits perfectly into the trends spotted on the runways of designers such as Prabal Gurung
and J JS Lee. The launch played on the idea of heat with the palette being brought to life with a sensorial dinner, flambé desserts, and fire-breathing dancers.
WHERE TO STAY The whitewashed resort of Lux* Saint Gilles situated right on the beach served as home for our stay. Cool down by the poolside bar with an Aperol
spritz or visit the Ici café stand on the beach for a fresh pineapple juice or a creamy gelato.
AN ISLAND MUST Don’t leave Réunion without taking a Helilagon helicopter tour. The combination of ocean and green canyon views make for an unforgettable experience − and, if the weather permits, you can even fly over the volcano.
“Réunion is sweltering with humidity to rival Durban’s, even at night; so make sure to pack your suitcase full of loose-fitting clothing in diaphanous fabrics and bright prints.” Dress, R2660, Lalesso
“Swimwear in botanical prints with a slightly retro silhouette is my go-to for island destinations. This look is bold, playful and a guaranteed killer photo opportunity.”
Bikini, R1800, Beach Cult
“I opted for an all-in-one tinted moisturiser with SPF to create superlightweight coverage for the warm climate.”
Urban Decay Naked Skin
One and Done Hybrid Complexion Perfector SPF 20, R580
“I took advantage of the sunny weather by applying a bronzer. Use a powder with fine particles for a distinctive highlight or a cream for a more subtle, dewy look.”
Urban Decay Beached Bronzer, R415
“I love to sweep a punchy colour over my lid for an attention-grabbing look that is easy to achieve. Warm reds and coppers smoked into the lash line are my summer staple.”
Urban Decay Naked Heat Palette, R850
“This spray is a saviour when your foundation threatens to slip off due to the humidity. It not only cools the skin, but locks product in place all day.”
Urban Decay De-slick Makeup Setting Spray, R450
TRENDS
This summer menswear walks the line between electro-bright streetwear and clean-lined, off-the-grid minimalism
the road less travelled Go off the grid in Cottweiler’s minimalist, multifunctional, stone-washed silhouettes
1. TROUSERS, R500, COTTON ON 2. SHIRT, R1 990, GANT 3. T-SHIRT, R50, MRP 4. SWEAT SHIRT, R699, CONVERSE 5. T-SHIRT, R999, SCOTCH & SODA
8. SUNGLASSES, R1 749, MAT & MAY 9. SNEAKERS, R13 700, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA 10. DUFFEL BAG, R2 499, HERSCHEL SUPPLY CO 11. SHOES, R2 349, PALLADIUM 12. SHORTS, R1 399, SCOTCH & SODA
13. DUFFEL BAG, R2 800, PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND
14. SHORTS, R329, COTTON ON
COMPILED BY
Sahil Harilal
acid trip Classic streetwear ups the ante in Katie Eary’s MA-1 jackets and neoprene hoodies punctuated with quirky electro prints of butterflies and beetles in neon accents
1 Planning to spend the rest of your year outdoors? This water-resistant, hydrating sunscreen will keep your skin protected from head to toe.
Dermalogica Protection 50 Sport SPF50, 150ml, R595
2 The perfect sunscreen for oily or sensitive skin. It strengthens the skin’s barrier, which prevents irritation, and does not leave a greasy or sticky residue.
SVR Sun Secure Fluide SPF50+, 50ml, R235
3
Worry about where to enjoy your sundowners, not which sunscreen to use, with this spray-on sunscreen with a lightweight formula that is easy to apply.
Heliocare Advanced Spray, SPF50, R481
From sunscreen to scent, your vacation grooming couldn’t be easier Grooming News
OLFACTORY BUZZ:FOUGÈRE SCENTS
We are bidding farewell to the classic fresh scent, as aromatic fougère scents are all the rage. Not only do these last longer than citrus-focused scents when the temperatures rise, but by blending zesty top notes with spices, herbs, and floral or woody notes, they also elevate the conventional holiday fragrance offering.
THE WOODY FOUGÈRE The zesty notes of green lemon, jasmine, and ginger give this scent a punch.
GIVENCHY GENTLEMAN EDT, 100ML, R1 400
THE FLORAL FOUGÈRE A blended top note of cardamom and pear gives this scent a powerful and spicy opening.
ARMANI CODE COLONIA EDT, 75ML, R1 310
THE AROMATIC FOUGÈRE This scent creates a harmony of zest, spice, and sweetness with orange blossom at its heart.
Ready, Groomed, Travel
While relaxing in resort locations or ticking items off your bucket list, the last thing that you want to think about is a lengthy skincare routine. Keep your grooming minimal and maximise your vacation time with these travel-friendly, grooming essentials.
This multipurpose moisturiser combats ageing, softens skin, and soothes shaving irritations. Sisleyum For Men Anti-Age Global Revitalizer, 50ml, R2 943
This handy set contains the Intensive Hydrating Cream, 50ml; Anti-Fatigue Serum for Eyes, 15ml; and the Cleansing Gel, 50ml. The Thalgo Men Gift Set, R1 170
Apply this sheet mask after flights or whenever skin feels dehydrated for an instant moisture surge.
Skin689 Moisturising Face Mask for Women & Men, 20ml, R170
MISSONI PARFUM POUR HOMME EDP, 100ML, R1 060 1 2 3
*Prices and availability were checked at the time of going to press. Sunday Times The Edit cannot guarantee that prices will no t change or that items will be in stock at the time of publication.
FASHION
SINDISO KHUMALO STYLE BY SA CROP TOP, R699, WOOLWORTHS; SILK SATIN SCARF, R599, TRENERY; EARRINGS, R9 425, KIRSTEN GOSS
Get lost in tropical escapes in lightweight, bold, botanical and graphic prints with bursts of sun-kissed hues and sea-blue undertones
PHOTOGRAPHY
Steve Tanchel/Red Hot Ops
SWIMSUIT, R950; KIMONO, R1 100; BOTH BEACH CULT; NECKLACE, R890, PICHULIK; GOLD BANGLES (WORN THROUGHOUT), FROM R3 799 TO R6 999; ROSE-GOLD BANGLES (WORN THROUGHOUT, FROM R 3 599 TO R4 299, ALL AMERICAN SWISS
DRESS, R25 700; HEAD SCARF, R4 500; BOTH GUCCI
MESH TOP, R529; TROUSERS, R799, BOTH H&M; MAX & CO SUNGLASSES, R2 130, SAFILO; WEDGES, R1 099, WITCHERY
BLOUSE, R460; SHORTS, R699, BOTH RUFF TUNG; GERALDINE FENN EARRINGS, R1 360, TINSEL; BANGLES (PART OF SET), R150, WOOLWORTHS
Take a pit stop at the roadhouse in preppy, clashing heritage checks, statement prints, and classic stripes, paired with sharp tailoring and collegiate knits
SHIRT, R379; STUDIO TROUSERS, R629, BOTH H&M; SHOES, R2 299, TREAD & MILLER
traces the roots of her incredibly intimate vision in her first coffee-table book, Sex & Cigarettes
Midenge
Photographer Daniella
TEXT
profile
IMAGES
Daniella Midenge
Nothemba Mkhondo
THE INTIMACY OF
“T here’s something about being naked that gives a person a different expression on their face. When someone is naked, there’s something vulnerable about the look in their eyes. In some of these portraits, the people are naked, and even though you don’t see their bodies, I just like how their faces look,” says Daniella Midenge, a photographer known for her
audaciously sensual, vivid, high-contrast portraits of nude women’s bodies.
Midenge’s striking imagery is the result of an organic and intimate process. “It started with small, intimate shoots with friends. It’s always just been me and a girl: there’s no big production. I do her makeup and there’s almost no other light sources, just natural light,”
Midenge says. “I never set anything in stone: it happens very organically and spontaneously. We just go outside and we crawl into a little spot somewhere and then things just unfold and we just play.”
Midenge’s compelling photographs walk a fine line between provocation and art. The images hold a power of expression;
they elicit a certain gaze.
“When I started photography, I was really only doing what came from my heart. It was, and still is, all about taking photos that feel more like photography — not like fashion photography — something you put on the wall, something timeless,” she says.
But why naked women?
Midenge’s fascination with the female figure started from a young age, when she used to regularly draw and paint faces, bodies, eyes, and lips. This interest,
paired with her longstanding love for pictures and magazines, grew into a penchant for capturing beautiful and strong women. “It’s a way to get immediate intimacy with a person. I love to see the transformation in a person — like at first they are a little bit thoughtful about it, and then by the end of the shoot, they’ll just crawl around. There’s something really liberating about it,” she says.
Midenge’s background — she comes from a creative family and has previously worked in makeup and art direction — put her on the path to being a photographer. Her photographic expertise is selftaught and driven by her desire to create beautiful
CIGARETTES
images of women. “I always thought being a photog-rapher was such a technical thing, but it’s not really — I’m not a technical person at all. It’s more about feeling and art direction and knowing what to add and what to take away,” she says.
Sex & Cigarettes is a coffee-table book of Midenge’s favourite images, taken over the years in unexpected corners of the world including back gardens in Los Angeles and parks and beaches in Cape Town. It’s a visual journey of Midenge’s artistic vision; an exploration of her driving artistic intuition. “I just go along to wherever my heart goes. I’m just following my feelings. Sometimes I don’t think: I just feel,” she says.
The book contains 132 black-and-white and vivid colour images of female models only, over 192 pages and includes self-portraits of Midenge.
“There can only be one man in my images — his name is Stephan,” Midenge quips — Stephan is her cat.
“ It was, and still is, all about taking photos that feel more like photography — not like fashion photography — something you put on the wall, something timeless ”
BOTTOM Tanya, Petit Ermitage Studio, Los Angeles, US, 2016
Masha, Peru, 2015
2017
Milan, Cape Town, South Africa, 2014
OPPOSITE, BOTTOM LEFT Jenna, Swartberg Pass, South Africa, 2014
OPPOSITE, TOP RIGHT Gillian, Cape Town, South Africa, 2014
OPPOSITE, TOP LEFT Marinet, Hollywood Hills, US, 2016
MIDDLE
TOP Lena, Tulum, Mexico,
OPPOSITE, BOTTOM RIGHT
a life celebrated
Azzedine Alaïa
A celebrated fashion designer who knew his own worth
Azzedine Alaïa, who was between the age of 77 and 82 when he died, was, together with Giorgio Armani, the most influential fashion designer of the 1980s, and one of the industry’s few innovative talents. His use of fabric to make clothes that hugged the body earned him the epithet “The King of Cling”.
Like Coco Chanel before him, Alaïa’s genius was to use a previously overlooked material to create an entirely new mainstream fashion.
Where Chanel made her name with jersey (previously reserved for men’s undergarments), Alaïa used stretchy fibres hitherto employed only for swimwear. More importantly still, Alaïa — who had no formal training — focused not on the appearance of the garment but its very construction and relationship to the body.
The results were clothes that seemed to reveal all, yet flattered by lifting and shaping. Alaïa’s dresses were seen everywhere and efforts to imitate them gave birth to the tight, short look that characterised much of the eighties.
The key to Alaïa’s work was that, unlike many designers, he revered women. He wanted them to revel in his sensual clothes, to be liberated by them rather than to be moulded by his vision. Models preferred to be paid by him in clothes rather than with cash, and his career was shaped by a series of inspirational muses and women patrons, among them Greta Garbo and Naomi Campbell.
Azzedine Alaïa was born in Tunis. He came to regard his date of birth, like many other facts of his life, as a creative possibility. Some biographical sources list his birth as February 26 1935; others give the year as 1939 or 1940.
The chief artistic influences on him as a boy were the cinemas and cabarets of Tunis and the French fashion catalogues of a friend of his mother’s. Having learnt from his sister how to sew dresses to make pocket money, he concentrated on teaching himself to copy the latest Parisian fashions for the grandes dames of Tunis society.
When he was 17, he obtained a placement in the atelier of Christian Dior in Paris. This lasted
(1935-40 to 2017)
only five days, however, as resentment against North Africans was at its height because of the Algerian war.
He subsequently worked for Guy Laroche for two seasons, and then for almost two decades made a niche for himself as the housekeepercum-dressmaker to a series of rich Parisian women who recognised and mothered his talents.
The first of these was Louise de Vilmorin, the writer and former mistress of Duff Cooper and André Malraux.
As well as teaching a bemused Alaïa to play croquet, she introduced him to her friends, many of whom were to become his patrons, among them the actress Arletty, Cecile de Rothschild and Garbo.
By the mid-1970s, Alaïa’s skill was well known in the fashion industry, and he regularly undertook commissions for other designers such as Thierry Mugler. One such project was for the Crazy Horse cabaret, which asked him to design costumes for its showgirls. “I learned a lot from them,” Alaïa later reflected. “The clothes needed to stay precisely in place, but come off quickly.”
Alaïa came to wider prominence at the beginning of the eighties when a writer for French Elle, to whom he had loaned a leather skirt and a pair of studded gloves, featured them in the magazine.
Nothing so overtly exotic, or erotic, had been seen in fashion for decades, and he was soon
invited by the influential New York department store Bergdorf Goodman to show a collection there.
Terrified lest they discover that his entire “collection” consisted of fewer than 10 samples, he began to make impossible demands — a firstclass airfare for his dog among them — hoping that they would cancel. They did not: the show was a success, and he was launched. One of his first achievements was his championing of the model Naomi Campbell, whom he was the first to use for catwalk shows.
Alaïa’s cutting-edge styles, and his maverick business practices — he never advertised and deliveries from his atelier often arrived months late — meant that as early as the mid-1980s he was being written off by the fashion press. It did not help his cause over the years that he also fell out with Anna Wintour, the editor of American Vogue, and conducted lengthy feuds with, among others, rival designers Karl Lagerfeld and Hervé Leger, accusing the latter of copying his clothes.
Alaïa responded by virtually turning his back on the fashion world. He professed to have little regard for money, an attitude that allowed him to work as he wanted, and he knew his own worth. For the next decade he reverted to designing for a few favoured clients.
In 2001, however, the wheel began to turn once more. A small retrospective at the Guggenheim in New York led to a revival of his reputation as one of the great innovators of fashion, and he finally agreed to accept substantial investment from a larger brand, Prada. When Yves Saint Laurent retired, he hired many of the petits mains from his studio and in 2003 gave his first shows in more than 10 years. Though small in scale, they once again generated excitement and appreciative reviews. Once more, in the fickle world of fashion, he was The King.
Working with Prada saw him through a second impressive renaissance, and, in 2007, he bought back his fashion business from the Prada group. The same year Compagnie Financière Richemont bought a majority stake in the business.
He was named Chevalier de la Légion d’honneur in 2008. The Telegraph
TEXT
Paula Andropoulos
ILLUSTRATIONS
Lydia Wessels
Podcast 2 Dope Queens: a hilarious take on contemporary city living from Phoebe Robinson and Jessica Williams. wnyc.org/shows/dopequeens Playlist Sylvan Esso,What Now; The xx, I See You; Gorillas, Humanz Audiobook The Handmaid’s Tale by Margaret Atwood, read by Claire Danes Recommended snacks roasted pepper, avocado, and hummus sandwiches on whole-wheat bread, freshoffthegrid.com/road-trip-sandwiches; lightly salted kale chips, freshcityfarms.com/recipes/seasalt-garlic-kale-chips; home-made iced coffee with coconut milk, rachaelrayshow.com/recipes/22720_creamy_coconut_iced_coffee
Podcast The New Yorker Fiction: Great writers read stories from The New Yorker’s archives. newyorker.com/podcast/fiction Playlist America, America; Paul Simon, Graceland; The War on Drugs, A Deeper Understanding Audiobook Slouching Towards Bethlehem by Joan Didion, read by Diane Keaton Recommended snacks cold, savoury avocado soup, foodnetwork.com/recipes/marcela-valladolid/chilled-avocado-soup-recipe-1921060; homemade breadsticks, foodnetwork.com/recipes/ food-network-kitchen/almost-famous-breadsticks-recipe-1972945; mint-infused water with cucumber and raspberries; seasonal fruit salad
Micro-manage your time in the car this festive season, and enjoy the ride breaking down road trip the perfect summer
Podcast You Must Remember This: US film critic Karina Longworth delves into Hollywood’s secret histories. youmustrememberthispodcast.com Playlist Beach House, Beach House; SZA, Ctrl; Little Dragon, Ritual Union Audiobook Norse Mythology by Neil Gaiman, read by the author Recommended snacks homemade popcorn with oregano and garlic, rachaelrayshow.com/recipe/13534_garlic_herb_and_Parmesan_popcorn; homemade lemonade, realsimple.com/food-recipes/recipe-collectionsfavorites/seasonal/homemade-lemonade; smoked salmon and avocado wraps, greedygourmet.com/recipes-for-diets/pescatarian/smoked-salmon-wrap-with-avocado
IMAGES Ricardo Simal and Anthony Bila
Nothemba Mkhondo
If a city can be defined by its creatives, Jozi is a city in motion: a cultural laboratory comprising a vast group of dynamic individuals taking creativity in their stride. A new breed of local creatives has become the subversive cultural force that is resetting the gaze on youth culture and reinvigorating the cultural landscape of Johannesburg and South Africa as a whole.
“Clothes are just a form of expression,” says Jozi born-and-bred fashion designer Rich Mnisi. He is the voice of a new generation of fashion designers that isn’t afraid to push boundaries and subvert expectations. Mnisi visually explores complex themes, such as gender and blackness, in his experimental collections and bold campaign images.
“I like mixing clothes: playing with the idea of masculinity and making it something else. It’s about showing a different image to black men and women, and removing some of the stereotypes that come with that. It’s about normalising everything from scratch,” Mnisi says. “You know, there’s being a man, but then there’s being a black man. So it’s about how we neutralise that and allow people to be themselves.”
Mnisi has been globally recognised for his distinct visual language since he released his first lookbook in 2016. “I think everyone can see how the brand and my aesthetic is just raw. It shows where I am in that moment: it’s not as contrived as you’d imagine a fashion brand to be. It’s a raw and honest perspective, and everything is communicated in that way, so it’s relatable,” he says.
ANTHONY BILA
Mnisi’s latest campaign, Xingelengle, meaning “bell of siren”, is a vivid and playful portrayal of township life. “I took it back home. All the quirkiness and the balloons and the styling was to illustrate that joy from my childhood and how that environment makes me feel,” he says. “People always portray the township as this sad, bad place but it’s not all bad. The people’s hearts that live there: they are just such good people with good souls.”
The authentic representation of one’s own identity, culture, and surroundings is a touchstone for most creatives. Photographer and multidisciplinary artist Anthony Bila takes this approach in his work. “All I ever want to be is authentic and share the various narratives I feel are often misrepresented or even underrepresented. I want to connect African stories to the world and the world to African stories,” Bila says.
Bila’s work has a visual texture defined by the personalities of the people and landscapes he captures with his lens. His personal experience inspires his multilayered imagery of Johannesburg and South Africa, including short films, TV commercials, fine art in the form of illustration and sculpture, writing, and music. “We often run the danger of telling a single narrative about South Africa, so the more varied the backgrounds, gender, race, and social class there is in the mix, the more representative and honest the stories become,” Bila says.
“ What makes us unique if we don’t tell local stories and share what it is that makes us who we are?” ” ANTHONY BILA
“I love the energy, the creativity and talent of the people who inhabit Jozi across disciplines and skill sets. In my opinion, the world is becoming saturated, and Africa as a whole is untapped with so much potential. Johannesburg is leading the way in many respects in the renaissance and revolution,” he says.
Through the eyes of Mnisi and Bila, it becomes apparent that the zeitgeist of Jozi is a truly unique amalgamation of cultures, times, and styles. As Mnisi says: “No one is ever one thing.” As people navigate the complex landscape of gender, blackness, and representation in a fast-paced, creative city, the possibilities are endless.
BEAUTY
ROBE DRESS, LACOSTE; SUNGLASSES, EPOKHE
TRIED & TESTED
HOODED DRESS; SHOES, BOTH LACOSTE;
“ There are some areas of the leg − inner-thigh laxity or pockets of fat around the knees − that not even a lifetime of leg days at the gym can slim down. If these are standing between you and your dream beach legs, try Coolsculpting, a 60-minute treatment that targets small pockets of fat around the legs, tummy, or arm areas using a suction device to slowly freeze fat cells, which kills them and allows the body to expel them as toxins for a smoother, more contoured area ” laserderm-sa.com
DRESS, LACOSTE
ROBE
“ BTL Lymphastim is a great treatment, especially if you need to contour or tighten skin and reduce centimetres. The process, lasting about 20 minutes, is completely painless and surprisingly relaxing. You lie in a padded sleeve attached to the BTL machine, which pumps air at intervals to slowly inflate and tighten different areas of the legs, butt, thighs, and lower abdomen to stimulate lymphatic drainage ” silhouettecentre.co.za
LEATHER DRESS, IRO; SUNGLASSES, ELIZABETH AND JAMES
“ Give hands a new lease on life and your summer manicure the perfect canvas by trying out the Dermaceutic Milk Peel Treatment. If you are wary of peels or have sensitive skin, this superficial peel is perfect, as it will not lift layers and layers of skin. This peel is ideal for darker skin tones, as it will not cause post-inflammatory pigmentation. It gradually evens out sun spots and fine lines on the top layers of skin – using glycolic acid, lactic acid, and salicylic acid – resulting in smooth, luminous skin
dermaceutic.co.za
HOODED PRINT DRESS, LACOSTE
HOODED DRESS, LACOSTE
beauty
TEXT Nokubonga Thusi
PHOTOGRAPHER Jesse-Leigh Elford
locating wellness
Achieving a new you by the time January rolls in seems a daunting task, but whether you need a nutritional overhaul or a spiritual reconnection, there is a retreat for everyone
Previously, holidays involved relaxation, satisfying your wanderlust, or just getting away from the stresses of work, while the process of achieving a new you involved a dramatic haircut or a new set of body curves followed by a lengthy list of resolutions. Currently, with a saturation of quick-fix relaxation tools, health apps, and coping mechanisms, such as smoking, binge eating and drinking, the need to return to healthier, more fulfilled lifestyles, and achieving wellness has become the most coveted state of being. Wellness, as defined by the Oxford Dictionary, is: “The state of being in good health, especially as an actively pursued goal.”
The worlds of beauty and health are now merging to create a holistic approach to beauty, health, and lifestyle that people are actively searching for throughout the year. According to Eugenie Kelly, deputy editor and features director at Harper’s Bazaar Australia, in an article on grittypretty.com, “Beauty is now being equated with health and wellness. There’s now greater awareness of how what goes into the body affects the outside.” The quest for overall self-improvement doesn’t stop as soon as the holiday season arrives people are also opting for more introspective experiences during their holidays.
Improve on: Lifestyle management
Retreat: Brookdale Health Hydro, Kwa-Zulu Natal, brookdale.co.za
This luxury wellness destination in Nottingham Road, is ideal for those seeking a holistic health journey in addition to their holiday. “At Brookdale, relaxation is at the core of destressing, concentrating not only on pampering with the usual spa amenities and treatments, but also offering talks by qualified professionals on exercise, healthy eating, and stress relief,” says Jankiepersadh..
Improve on: Spirituality
Retreat: Temenos Retreat, Western Cape, temenos.org.za
Temenos Retreat is tucked away in the small town of McGregor, with lush gardens that allow one to shut life out completely. While still focusing on aspects such as nutrition and health activities such as yoga, the
Although booking a ticket to an exotic destination is still on the cards, it comes with the requirement to reconnect with the environment and kick a few bad habits. Internationally, wellness holidays have become the new way to recharge, with a growing number of locations offering luxurious escapes that incorporate this element, including the Como Shambala Estate in Bali, Aro Ha Wellness Retreat in New Zealand or Kamalaya Koh Samui in Thailand. “Globally, people are starting to pay more attention to their health and wellbeing,” says Misha Jankiepersadh from Brookdale Health Hydro, one of South Africa’s most sought-after wellness destinations. “You not only get to enjoy an affordable, relaxing, and scenic getaway from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, but you also receive guidance, knowledge, and encouragement on living a healthier lifestyle. We provide our guests with the necessary tools to make changes as far as their nutrition, exercise, and stress are concerned.”
Self-improvement or wellness holidays are not just retreats to a luxury spa for weeks of pampering. Though most locations do contain spa-ritual packages, the focus is on overall health, from nutrition to exercise to spiritual meditation, to gain the tools to promote a healthier lifestyle and more centred you.
retreat’s main purpose is to improve spiritual and mental fortitude through meditation, prayer, and even solitude. “We do not subscribe to any specific spiritual practice, although there are corners in the gardens for guests who follow a particular spiritual path,” says Billy Kennedy of Temenos Retreat.
Improve on: Weight control and detoxification
Retreat: The Hydro, Stellenbosch, thehydro.co.za
If you need to work on your relationship with food and overall nutrition, a trip to the Stellenbosch winelands is next on your travel wish list. Retreat programmes address stress-induced eating disorders, sleep patterns, and weight loss, and The Hydro provides practical advice on food preparation and customised nutrition plans for your body and lifestyle.
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LIVING
Roberta Thatcher
I De Padova’s INIMITABLE LEGACY
n the 1950s, when most Italian women were expected to be homemakers — thanks to Mussolini’s lingering views on women — Maddalena De Padova launched her eponymous — and now globally recognised — designer furniture company, which would go on to transform the way Italy experienced interior design.
The journey started quite unintentionally, while on a holiday to northern Europe, when she and husband Fernando fell in love with the Scandinavian design ethos. In 1955 they began to import Scandinavian furniture to Italy, and while the style is ubiquitous today, it was an outrageously foreign aesthetic to Italians at the time.
“It’s strange to think, but Italian furniture was very ornate, dark, and gloomy before the 1960s,” says Roberto Gavazzo, chief executive of Boffi, the Italian kitchen and bathroom brand that recently acquired De Padova. “Maddalena is one of a handful of important characters of the era, like Cassina and Flos, who transformed and elevated Italian design. She was a fantastic and incredible lady: a great entrepreneur, with so much energy.”
MADDALENA DE PADOVA; MADDALENA AND FERNANDO DE PADOVA
OPPOSITE PAGE, FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: TATTOMI THREE-IN-ONE SEAT BY JAN ARMGARDT AND INGO MAURER; MINI MATE SIDE TABLE BY ACHILLE CASTIGLIONI; BASKET ARMCHAIR BY VICO MAGISTRETTI; ABOVE LEFT: SC16 CABINET SYSTEM; LL04 LOUNGE CHAIR BY MAARTEN VAN SEVEREN; ABOVE RIGHT: LOUISIANA ARMCHAIR AND POUF BY VICO MAGISTRETTI; CHAB-TABLE WITH TRAY BY NENDO; 606 UNIVERSAL SHELVING SYSTEM, DE PADOVA
SEAT BY JAN ARMGARDT AND INGO MAURER 4. SCRITTARELLO DESK BY ACHILLE CASTIGLIONI 2 1 3 4
De Padova soon boasted a growing portfolio of imported products, and an ever-increasing network of designer friends. After she was widowed in 1967, she began to explore the idea of creating her own collections.
At about this time, she kicked off the company’s long-standing collaboration with Vico Magistretti. The design giant created a range of office furniture for De Padova, thus starting De Padova’s own collection, which over the decades would see collaborations with some of the world’s most influential designers, including Alexander Girard, Achille Castiglioni, Dieter Rams, Nendo, and, most recently, Patricia Urquiola.
There’s undeniably something special about a space filled with De Padova products. The pieces are not immediately connected, and don’t seem to be from one brand, yet they combine to create a cohesiveness that ties a space together.
“You can fill an entire house with De Padova pieces, and you’ll never know they were from one company,” says Julia Day, owner of Generation Design, which distributes the brand locally. “The beauty of a De Padova
piece is that it will even pair perfectly with an antique. It’s timeless design. A pleasure to work with.”
“The collection is a complete mix,” Gavazzo says, alluding to the fact that it is by different designers, working over several decades. “De Padova brings it all together, in a mix of styles, with no precise imprint.”
Maddalena De Padova passed away in December 2016, at the age of 88. “When she was 80 she told me she’d still be working at 120,” Gavazzo says, marvelling at her energy and dynamism. “Maddalena always thought about the company as if it were her own house. She would only commission a piece that she would like to have — and usually did end up having — in her own apartment.”
This purist vision endures in the company’s ethos today. “Nowadays everyone is good at making beautiful furniture,” Gavazzo says. “We are more about the style, creating the pleasure of living in a beautiful space.” De Padova is distributed in South Africa by Generation Design. generationdesign.co.za; depadova.com
1. ISHI TABLE BY NENDO 2. VIDUN TABLE BY VICO MAGISTRETTI 3. TATTOMI THREE-IN-ONE
LIGHT-
ING THE WAY
Our Living editor visits vibey Eindhoven, the design capital of The Netherlands, for Dutch Design week
VAN ABBE MUSEUM
E1232 Eindhoven receives official city status 1486 The city is plundered and burned by Guelders troops
1502 City’s reconstruction completed 1554 Fires destroy 75% of city structures
1583 Spanish troops capture the city 1629 Eindhoven becomes part of The Netherlands
indhoven has a new “vibe”: or rather, three vibes. These vibes are part of the city branding conceptualised by world-famous Dutch designer Remco van de Craats. He tried to capture the city through the medium of vibes. The vibes represent the energy created by Eindhoven’s people; their ideas; and a starting point for joint solutions, rather than individual conquests. I often heard people using the phrase “sharing the vibe” during my visit, and the meaning soon made sense.
On arrival in Eindhoven, this vibe was evident in the immediate sense of community I felt and just how friendly and helpful people are, especially as I tend to head confidently in the opposite direction of where I am supposed to be going. The city is alive with energy and crowds of design fundis and uber-trendy design students roaming the streets dressed in their sleek way. As I started making my way towards the many recommended spots during Dutch Design Week, I realised that this is not your typical Dutch city with picturesque old buildings lining canals, but a rather upbeat hub of modern architecture and urban coolness.
A few days in, meeting and mingling with the locals and visiting a wide selection of design-related venues set in a variety of incredible, industrial warehouse spaces, I realised the impact the arrival of Philips had on this town’s structure, aesthetic, and its people. The advanced level of design and the confident, distinctive, and collective approach resulted in a unique community. Undoubtedly, it is these qualities that set the people of Eindhoven apart from the rest of the design world.
1760 The Industrial Revolution starts and has a major impact on the city’s growth 1891 Philips settles in Eindhoven and soon rises to become the leader in lighting, engineering, and electronics
1910 Philips Stadium opens
1921 Lichttoren built 1936 Van Abbe museum opens 1947 Design Academy Eindhoven established 1970 De Bijenkof department store completed 1997 Philips headquarters relocated to Amsterdam
2002 Dutch Design Week begins 2006 Glow Festival Eindhoven begins 2010 Piet Hein Eek studio opens 2015 Population rises to 223 220 (city regions) and 753 426 (metro regions) 2017 Eindhoven’s economic growth surpasses the four biggest cities in the Netherlands
“ The brief time I spent in these surroundings altered my sense of the world I live in and made me realise that this vibe could certainly be something we should all adopt for the greater good ”
They seem to have an advanced understanding of the need to work together — to enrich and support each other — regardless of their individual levels of education and success. Even though this sense of community is an ancient principle, they seem to have continuously revived and reinvented it, and it has become an integral part of their way of life. The brief time I spent in these surroundings altered my sense of the world I live in and made me realise that this vibe could certainly be something we should all adopt for the greater good.
18 SEPTEMBER PLEIN, DE BLOB ON LEFT & PHILLIPS LICHTTOREN
#SHARETHEVIBE
MY TO-DO LIST
JOOST
AND KIKI
Hurksestraat 19
Joost and Kiki’s new design lab and store is located within a former Philips design lab. It showcases a great selection of their recent works: their unique and individual approach to design is quite special and a must-see. joostandkiki.nl
2 RADIO ROYAAL
Ketelhuisplein 10
As you enter this industrial dining space you get to experience and appreciate the factory elements of an old Philips machine room. The food is down to earth and truly delicious, and the venue is perfect for intimate dinners or larger parties. radioroyaal.be
STRIJP AREA
3
KAZERNE
Paradijslaan 8
Kazerne is set within a warehouse that used to serve as military barracks, and boasts an open kitchen at centre, surrounded by tables and art installations. The absence of music and the friendly hum of patrons savouring the delicious food make for an almost theatrical feel. kazerne.com
4
INNTEL HOTELS ART EINDHOVEN
Lichttoren 22
This city-centre hotel forms part of the Philips light tower. It has spacious and beautiful interiors, with great service and dedicated staff. All the rooms are individually decorated and overlook the central area. inntelhotelsarteindhoven.nl
16 DE BLOB
Septemberplein 18
On entering the city, you will see a gigantic organically shaped steel and glass building that serves as the central point and entrance to “The Admirant” shopping area. The building is currently occupied by Sissy Boy, a local brand showcasing an incredible selection of fashion and homeware. sissy-boy.com
15 THE HAPPINESS CAFÉ
Nieuwe Emmasingel 9
The Happiness Café is abuzz with crowds of health nuts and hipsters. It’s a great spot for getting your fix of healthy, hearty meals and beverages while roaming on free WiFi. I highly recommend the cupcakes and coffee for a quick pick-me-up. thehappinesscafe.nl
CENTRAL AREA
14 COFFEELAB UC & BRANDSTORE EINDHOVEN Stationsplein 17 Brandstore is the gateway to the city and offers information, brochures, and maps to help you find your way around the city. It shares a space with Coffeelab UC, the ideal pitstop for delicious coffee. thisiseindhoven.com ; coffeelab.nl
13
BERLIN Kleine Berg 40
This stylish little bar with a rustic industrial interior and casual and cool atmosphere, offers a great selection of gins, gin cocktails, wine and delicious bar snacks – the perfect antidote to a weary mind and tired feet. berlin-bar5611.nl
5
PHILIPS MUSEUM
Emmasingel 31
A visit to this museum is a must for an in-depth-history of the Philips empire. The beautifully curated spaces demonstrate just how much the company has contributed, and continues to contribute, to the world of electronics. philipsmuseum.com
12 DE BIJENKORF
Piazza 1
A four-storey, high-end department store set in the most beautiful building designed by Gio Ponti in 1969. It houses a great selection of fashion and homeware, and is located in the central area. debijenkorg.nl
6
PIET HEIN
EEK
Halvemaanstraat 30
Piet Hein Eek’s showroom and gallery is located in a former Philips complex in the design hub of Strijp-R. Here you can look at the designer’s latest work and indulge in a delicious lunch or dinner. pietheineek.nl
11
VAN ABBE MUSEUM
Bilderdijklaan 10
Eindhoven’s museum of contemporary art is worth a visit, with regular exhibitions and a permanent collection of art by the likes of Kandinsky, Mondriaan, Chagall, and Picasso. The restaurant is a great lunch spot, overlooking a pond with reflections of its architecture. vanabbemuseum.nl
VIELGUT
Nieuwe
Emmasingel 38
This charming space is curated with a selection of design and décor objects by the likes of Piet Hein Eek. It also sells ranges of conscious fashion from authentic and sustainable labels. vielgut.nl
8
HUTSPOT
Halvemaanstraat 30
This design shop with a difference is set within a 700m space filled with local design inspired by the city’s constant supply of young and innovative design talent. The small café inside the store has a great selection of delicious bites by The Happiness Café, and great coffee, of course. hutspot.nl 9
HOMESTOCK
Nieuwe
Emmasingel 30
This is truly one of the best décor shops, even though it is jam-packed and a bit overwhelming. It has the best selection of goods and furniture imaginable: I wanted everything, but left with nothing. homestock.nl 10
DOWNTOWN GOURMET MARKET
Smalle Haven 2-14
This recently opened market is quite the hotspot. It brings together a hand-picked selection of cuisine from around the world in a casual space inspired by street-food trucks. The truffle burger with a local beer is a must. downtowngournmetmarket.com
With two direct evening flights, from Cape Town and OR Tambo, I would strongly suggest this option. Flying with KLM is such a pleasure, as it not only gets you into the swing of all things Dutch, but the attention to detail sets this airline apart from the rest. The ergonomically designed seats are comfortable and with the additional “economy comfort” option boasting 10cm more legroom and double the normal recline, it’s a definite plus for long-haul flights. The world-class, in-flight, video-on-demand entertainment system offers endless hours of fun, and the meals and snacks are surprisingly delicious, making the 12 or so hours fly by. In recent years, KLM World Business Class has introduced several new concepts to enhance on-board atmosphere and comfort by collaborating with prominent Dutch designers such as Hella Jongerius, Marcel Wanders, and Victor & Rolf. The recent introduction of a variety of menu options designed in collaboration with young European chefs and wines chosen by renowned sommeliers add to the one-of-akind on-board luxury. klm.com
The transport system is the best I have come across, and a pleasure to use. The clear signage and information feed, the use of a top-up card system, and a super-efficient timetable makes it is so convenient and easy to navigate your way through this picturesque county. Bicycle rentals are available at various points and cycling is a great way to see the city.
Can you describe your favourite item in your closet? Leotards.
Moonchild
cerulean-blue
TEXT
Nothemba Mkhondo profile
ILLUSTRATIONS
L’mri Erasmus
Name a book that’s had a lasting impact on you? The Artist’s Way by Julia Cameron
What is your secret talent? I’m a long boarder and hair designer. Oh, and I read tarot cards.
a life illustrated
Sanelly
is a singer with a wild-child spirit, known for her
woven hair and “future ghetto funk” sound. She’s collaborated with Thandiswa Mazwai, BLK JKS, and Busi Mhlongo
What is your favourite film? Get Out.
If you could meet and collaborate with any artist, living or dead, who would it be? Brenda Fassie, Thandiswa Mazwai, and Skepta.
What is your secret vice? Leaving the party and looking for a strip club. Let me tell you something: I’m a wild child sometimes.
What’s the last item you bought and loved? Denim heels
Who inspired you musically? My brother. He was a producer, and had a home studio. My older brother gave me my first keyboard when I was four years old.
Finish this sentence: if I weren’t afraid, I would… swim with crocodiles for the best visuals. I just jump in. Fear doesn’t stop me: it never has.
