Sunday Times 'The Edit' &'The Edit Man' A/W '16

AUTUMN/WINTER ’16

THIS PAGE: Grid Check Suit Jacket – from R1499 | Grid Check Suit Pant – from R599 | Cotton Stretch Shirt – from R350 OPPOSITE PAGE: Velour Suit Jacket – from R999 | Cotton Blend Polo Neck – from R299 | Velour Slim Leg Pant – from R599 (All available mid-April)

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ON THE COVER PRODUCTION SHARON BECKER PHOTOGRAPHY STEVE TANCHEL/ RED HOT OPS

Lanvin wrap dress, R42 900; Lanvin hat, R13 600; Lanvin necklace, R17 900, all 2A

AUTUMN/WINTER 2016

CONTENTS upfront ED’S LETTER IT LIST fashion & beauty Model of the moment Runway report Geek chic Modern patchwork Shearling The accessories edit Beauty: Perfumes Beauty: News

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A fusion of tones and textures

GRAPHIC DETAILS Abstract prints and patterns

ADVERTISING

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ADVERTISING CO-ORDINATOR Jamie Kinnear

PUBLISHER Aspasia Karras PRINTING Paarl Media Gauteng

33

Published by Times Media (Pty) Ltd 4 Biermann Avenue, Rosebank, Johannesburg.

42

feature OPINION Millennial moment

TRAVEL Dolce & Gabbana’s Guide to Italy

© Copyright: Times Media (Pty) Ltd. No portion of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without written consent of the publishers. The publishers are not responsible for unsolicited material. The Edit is published by Times Media (Pty) Ltd. The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of Times Media (Pty) Ltd. All advertisements, advertorials and promotions have been paid for and therefore do not carry any endorsement by the publishers.

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beauty SHE’S COME UNDONE Perfect imperfection

IN THE EYE OF THE BEHOLDER The history of beauty

SKIN SOLUTIONS The best for your skin

I READ WHAT I LIKE Lunetta Bartz’s favourite books Stockists on page 73

12 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

EDITOR Sharon Becker sharonb@timesmedia.co.za CREATIVE DIRECTOR Megan Guyt ART DIRECTOR Nicol Paterson MANAGING EDITOR Matthew McClure FASHION AND BEAUTY WRITER Ntombenhle Shezi FASHION ASSISTANT Khomotso Moloto BEAUTY EDITOR Tessa Passmore FASHION INTERN Ranaa Patel DESIGN INTERN Lydia Wessels SUB-EDITOR Yvonne Fontyn

ACCOUNT MANAGERS Faith Thomas faith@fashionedit.co.za, 082 852 8998 Charlotte Nutman (coastal) nutmanc@timesmedia.co.za, 078 358 6154

fashion LOST IN TRANSLATION

EDITORIAL

59 64 66 72

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26

cartier.com Shop U13, Sandton City - 011 666 2800

Amulette de Cartier

Alma Malletage quilted leather handbag, R70 000, Louis Vuitton

THIS SEASON WE DECODE THE KEY CATWALK TRENDS FOR YOU. IN OUR ACCESSORIES EDIT, WE SHOW THE NEW OPULENT PIECES, 1950S VINTAGE AND RED AS THE COLOUR OF CHOICE. MASTER GEEK CHIC WITH NOVELTY PRINTS AND ECLECTIC ACCESSORIES, TRY THE NEW POWER-PAIRING OF SHEARLING AND STRUCTURAL NEUTRALS, AND CHANNEL WOODSTOCK IN FREE-SPIRITED PATCHWORK. ENJOY!

14 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

PHOTOGRAPHY JUDD VAN RENSBURG PRODUCTION JENNY ANDREW

TREND

WATCH THE FILM AT JIMMYCHOO.COM

JOHANNESBURG SANDTON CITY DIAMOND WALK +27 (0) 11 326 6658

ADVERTORIAL

THE ROCKHOUSE HOTEL IN JAMAICA IS THE BEST HOTEL I’VE EVER STAYED AT. THAT BANANA BREAD…

My style essentials? A cat eyeliner, over-the-knee socks, an oversized leather jacket I stole from my mom, some sort of oversized vest and bobby pins.

I’m more of a songs type of girl than albums. Right now I love 21st Century Schizoid Man by King Crimson; How’s That by FKA Twigs; Culinary Hyperversity by Necrophagist; Gnossiennes 123 by Erik Satie and Voor Een Ander by Ares & Afriki.

FOR THE LOVE OF

GODDRIE MIMCO’s model-of-the-moment Damaris Goddrie is making all the right moves in the fashion world PHOTOGRAPHY Christian

Blanchard

PROENZA SCHOULER

VERSUS

PRADA

FENDI

Having walked for JW Anderson, Balmain, Kenzo and Missoni, the Dutch beauty is now the face of MIMCO’s 20th birthday campaign, The Montage, in a captivating series of portraits showcasing the latest collection from the designer accessories brand. The woman who’s stolen MIMCO’s heart shares a few of her favourite things.

I see a lot of jobs as career highlights and one is my SS16 runway season. I walked in a lot of shows I’d never done before with some of the biggest models, which was definitely not what I ever expected.

16 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

DAMARIS LOVES: SHOREDITCH TOWN ART IN LONDON AND MIRLEFT BEACH IN MOROCCO.

FRESH OFF THE BALMAIN

RUNWAY

We’ve left no trend unturned in our definitive style guide for the season. From the ultimate cover-ups to high necklines and even higher boots, we highlight the hottest catwalk trends

HIGH LINE The polo neck is this winter’s staple and proved to be every designers go-to garment. Paired with almost everything, the high neckline was layered under everything from structured, tailored pieces to unexpected glittery party frocks.

BALMAIN

The indulgent ’80s have resurfaced in the form of asymmetrical necklines, exaggerated shoulders, big belts and ruffles, as seen at Balmain. Even the more subtle collections paid homage to the kitsch-and-cool decade by choosing Lurex as the fabric du jour.

DKNY

DOLCE & GABBANA

FENDI

GREEDY ’80s

BOX BAGS It may not be the most practical holdall to carry with you all day, but the box bag is certainly a cute and compact option for when your load is light: keys, card, lipstick and cellphone only.

DUVET DRESSING

18 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

From Céline and Fendi to Moschino and Max Mara, puffy layers and cosy quilting were seen all over runways. The key here is getting proportions right.

ALEXANDER WANG

CÉLINE

Designers put a high-shine spotlight on royalty-inspired, elaborate accessories, from Balenciaga’s oversized pearls to the jewelled hair barrettes at Prada. But nobody did modern better than Dolce & Gabbana, who introduced us to seriously decorated tiara-like headphones.

FENDI

DOLCE & GABBANA

MODERN ROYALTY

PHOTOGRAPHY GALLO IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES/CATWALKING; GALLO IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES/ANTONELLO TRIO; GALLO IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES/ANTONIO DE MORAES BARROS FILHO & GALLO IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES/VENTURELLI

TRENDS

TRENDS

OH-SO FAUX

GIVENCHY

MIU MIU

MORE IS MORE “Stack ’em high,” according to Balenciaga and Miu Miu, who both went big on jewellery. Think prominent ear cuffs, chandelier earrings and look-at-me statement necklaces. If Givenchy had it their way, our faces would be entirely blinged up too.

ROKSANDA

THIGH HIGH When it comes to boots this winter, make sure yours go right up past the knee, worn over stockings and a shift dress or with jeans and an oversized jersey.

BURBERRY PRORSUM

BURBERRY PRORSUM

For the second season running, boho takes centre stage, reflecting the bygone era of the ’70s. Think back to the time of Woodstock where folksy, maxidresses in print overload were paired with patchwork, suede and fringing.

Layer the textures and don’t forget your leather saddlebag.

BURBERRY PRORSUM

ALTUZARRA

GIRLS OF WOODSTOCK

EMILIO PUCCI

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

PSYCHEDELIC PRINTS

CHRISTIAN DIOR

PHOTOGRAPHY GALLO IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES/CATWALKING; GALLO IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES/ANTONIO DE MORAES BARROS FILHO & GALLO IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES/SAMIR HUSSEIN

Faux fur has had a firm footing in fashion since the ’70s but this season your coat needs to make an even bigger statement. Bold and brightly coloured maxi furs were strutted down the runways of Louis Vuitton and Roksanda and some designers even lined their shoes with fluffy fun.

Bold pattern splashed across the collections of Christian Dior and Jonathan Saunders, who adopted a graphic and geometric approach, creating a fresh way to wear print. We were hypnotised as we gazed at what seemed like an optical illusion.

Autumn/Winter 2016 THE EDIT 19

TRENDS

WE’RE LOVING

GEEK CHIC

The return of the nerd sees oversized frames and prim blouses making a closet comeback. For idiosyncratic charm, throw in vintage accessories and bold prints Vince Camuto handbag, R2 999, Edgars

Spectacles, R750, Von Zipper

Handbag, R729, River Island Earrings, R499, Mimco

Blouse, R599, H&M

Jacket, R1 039, River Island Trousers, R879, River Island Keyring, R349, Dune London Heels, R499, Forever21

GUCCI

Gloves, R599, Accessorize

20 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

PHOTOGRAPHY LYDIA WESSELS, GALLO IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES/CATWALKING & SUPPLIED

Blouse, R1 099, H&M

TRENDS

WE’RE LOVING

MODERN PATCHWORK

Update 1970s-style dressing with a mix of textured fabrics such as denim or suede, coupled with colourful, bold accents

Hat, R149, Mr Price Cuff, R1 200, Henriette Botha

Guess sunglasses, from R1 375, SDM Eyewear

Boots, R1 899, River Island

Jacket, R499, H&M

Dress, R3 999, Diesel

Skirt, R779, River Island

CHLOÉ

Necklace, R950, Pichulik Bag, R3 399, Diesel Bag, R999, River Island

22 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

PHOTOGRAPHY GALLO IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES/VICTOR BOYKO & SUPPLIED

Skirt, R839, River Island

TRENDS

WE’RE LOVING

SHEARLING

Thick and cosy, shearling takes on a new form.

Pair with classic neutrals in mannish shapes and play with proportions

Fedora, R100, Mr Price

DKNY watch, R3 599, Watch Republic

Tom Ford sunglasses, R4 186, SDM Eyewear Skinny belts, R50 for stack of three, Mr Price

Jacket, R30 499, Tiger of Sweden

MARGARET HOWELL

Knit, R899, Forever New

Vince Camuto handbag, R2 799, Edgars Culottes, R3 200, Karen Millen

Coat, R7 700, Karen Millen Brogues, R1 499, Pringle of Scotland 24 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

Proenza Schouler bag, R21 390, Maison Mara

PHOTOGRAPHY GALLO IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES/ANTONIO DE MORAES BARROS FILHO & SUPPLIED

Scarf, R160, Woolworths

TRENDS

1

THE ACCESSORIES

EDIT

THE BOYFRIEND BOOT Boot, R1 999, Witchery

This season, when it comes to accessorising, classic styles, luxurious details and bold pieces reign supreme. Here are our top 10 key trends

Boot, R699, Cotton On

2

MINIMALIST METAL

Bracelet, R1 899, Skagen at Watch Republic; earrings, R99, Colette by Colette Hayman; earrings, R699, Mimco

4

3

FRINGED BAGS

Bucket bag, R1 499, Erato; crossbody bag, R2600, Karen Millen; cross-body bag, R200, Edgars;

Boot, R1 849, Dune London

50S VINTAGE

Bag, R1 449, Dune London; Dita von Teese sunglasses, R8 900, The Eyemakers

Boot, R1 699, Mimco

Boot, R4 999, Diesel

5

ROUND SUNNIES

Marc Jacobs sunglasses, R2 215, Safilo; Sunglasses, R250, River Island

26 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

TRENDS

7

CLASSIC PEARLS

Ear cuffs, R114, Colette by Colette Hayman;

6

FEMININE OPULENCE

Necklace, R2 999, Mimco; earrings, R250, Colette by Colette Hayman; sandal, POR, Jimmy Choo; Ballon Bleu de Cartier, POR, Cartier

Earrings, R499, Mimco

8

PHOTOGRAPHY SUPPLIED

9

THE BOX BAG

Clutch, R1 699, Mimco; clutch, R1 299, Mimco

10

GLAM RED

THE WILD

Skagen earrings, R1 299, Watch Republic

Fiorelli bag, R1 999, Mat & May; Tosoni bag, R1 195, Spitz; bag, POR, Jimmy Choo

Drawstring clutch, R799, Charles & Keith; heels, R3 000, Karen Millen; scalloped heels, R1Â 399, Erato

Autumn/Winter 2016 THE EDIT 27

BEAUTY

IN FULL

BLOOM

Fragrances with a floral top note work wonders in cool weather to warm up skin. Here are a few of our favourite scents to sweeten your senses TEXT Tessa Passmore PHOTOGRAPHY Judd van Rensburg

YvesSaintLaurent Majestic Rose EDP R2 900 for 80ml May rose, raspberry and guaiac wood

Narciso Rodriguez Rose Musc EDP R2 290 for 100ml Moroccan rose, black pepper and saffron

28 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Collection Rose EDP R3 505 for 50ml Rose centifolia, Bulgarian rose and Egyptian geranium

Valentino Donna EDP R1 855 for 100ml Bergamot, Bulgarian rose and iris

Bvlgari Goldea EDP R2 280 for 90ml Orange blossom, jasmine and amber

BEAUTY

BEAUTY

NEWS

We showcase the best beauty products for the season, inspired by jewels and precious metals TEXT Tessa Passmore PHOTOGRAPHY Supplied,

Lydia Wessels

THE JEWEL BOX Urban Decay, the world-renowned cult cosmetics brand, finally opens its first South African store in Sandton City in early May. Its most iconic product includes the ultimate Naked Palettes, R850 each, which come in four variants that each include 12 neutral eyeshadows with impressively intense pigments.

AN EMERALD TO DESIRE Saffron, Bulgarian rose, sambac jasmine, papyrus wood and vetiver combine to perfection in the bold, sophisticated new scent by Marc Jacobs. The real charm though is the handbag-design bottle with a chain-link strap and tassel accessory. Marc Jacobs Decadence EDP, R1 795 for 100ml.

THE PERFECT PAIR Chanel has forayed into the land of gel nail polish with the new Le Duo Vernis Longue Tenue, which wears for six days. We like the classic Le Vernis in Rouge Essentiel, R450 (a bright, ruby red) followed by Le Duo Vernis Longue Tenue Gel Coat, R450, (to seal and lock in shine) for a winning set.

Pure gold Who wouldn’t want nourished, mattified and radiant skin, especially during the driest months of the year? Swiss skincare brand La Prairie has launched Cellular Radiance Perfecting Fluide Pure Gold, R6 600, to minimise pore size, increase overall brightness, reduce pigmentation and add a soft, golden glow to your skin, all in one formula.

30 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

An amethyst hue How lovely is this brand new collaboration with Lupita Nyong’o and Lancôme? Lancôme Juicy Shakers, R270 each, have a special bi-phase formula that marries the nourishment of a lip oil with the brightness of bold Lancôme lip colours (and those memorable Juicy Tubes, fruity scents). Give it a swift shake to mix and apply with the handy cushion applicator. Nyong’o’s signature hue? Berry in Love, a pinkish-purple.

On shelf this month.

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FASHION

WELCOME TO A SEASON OF BOLD COLOUR, CLASHING PRINTS AND STRONG SILHOUETTES. KOOKY GEEK CHIC AND WHIMSICAL, VINTAGE-INSPIRED PIECES RECLAIM CENTRE STAGE. HERE’S TO CELEBRATING THE VIBRANT AND OFFBEAT SIDE OF AUTUMN/WINTER 2016 Autumn/Winter 2016

THE EDIT 33

FASHION

L O S T I N T R A N S L SANDTON SUN HOTEL SETS THE SCENE FOR THE SEASON’S REVIVED GEEK CHIC IN CLASHING PRINTS, VINTAGE SILHOUETTES AND RICH TONES PRODUCTION Sharon

PREVIOUS PAGE Sweater, R499, H&M; blouse, R2 999, Diesel; skirt, R769, socks, R79, both Topshop; spectacles, R375, Reminiscene; heels, R499, Forever 21

34 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

Becker

PHOTOGRAPHY Ross

Garrett/Lampost

FASHION

Top, R1 399, Country Road; skirt, R1 350, Nicci Boutique; beret, R850, Reminiscene; Gucci sunglasses, R4 138, Dorothy Christodoulou Optometrist; Ted Baker handbag, R4 200, Stuttafords

A T I O N

FASHION

Shirt, R839, River Island; skirt, R749, H&M; Prada sunglasses, R2 450, Luxottica; belt, R699, Pringle of Scotland; Ted Baker handbag, R4 200, Stuttafords

36 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

FASHION

Ted Baker blouse, R2 199, Stuttafords; skirt, R999, belt, R499, both Topshop; spectacles, R375, Reminiscene

Autumn/Winter 2016 THE EDIT 37

FASHION

40 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

FASHION

TEAM PRODUCTION Sharon Becker PHOTOGRAPHY Ross Garrett/ Lampost HAIR Saadique Ryklief MAKEUP Liz van der Merwe/ Red Hot Ops MODEL Alex Chi/Fusion PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT Lesedi Mothoagae CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITOR Sheena Bagshaw FASHION ASSISTANT Khomotso Moloto FASHION INTERNS Ranaa Patel and Lydia Wessels LOCATION Sandton Sun sandtonsun.co.za

OPPOSITE PAGE Top, R599, trousers, R899, both Mango; polo-neck top, R399, H&M; Marc Jacobs sunglasses, R3 261, Eye Candy Optometrists THIS PAGE Blouse, R599, H&M; trousers, R849, Topshop; spectacles, R375, Reminiscene; heels, R1 499, Nine West

Stockists on page 73

Autumn/Winter 2016

THE EDIT 41

FASHION

VALENTINO Valentino dress, R31 900, 2A

42 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

FASHION

BURBERRY Prorsum dress, R45 690, Burberry

WITH PUNCHY COLOUR, WALLPAPER PRINTS AND CLASHING PATTERNS, WINTER IS LOOKING BREATHTAKINGLY BEAUTIFUL

GRAPHIC

DETAILS

PHOTOGRAPHY Steve Tanchel PRODUCTION Sharon Becker

FASHION

PAUL SMITH Shirtdress, R3 950, trousers, R4 600, boots, R7 500, all Paul Smith

44 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

FASHION

GUCCI Cardigan, R14 500, skirt, R9 600, handbag, R32 200, all Gucci

Autumn/Winter 2016

THE EDIT 45

FASHION

PRADA Coat, R57 150, pullover, R12 550, skirt, R20 200, handbag, R49 100, heels, R11 250, all Prada; socks, stylist’s own; Quaker chair, POR, Gregor Jenkin Studio

46 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

FASHION

DOLCE & GABBANA Dress, R38 000, headband, R34 000, clutch bag, R38 000, heels, R9 500, all Dolce & Gabbana

Autumn/Winter 2016 THE EDIT 47

FASHION

KENZO Kenzo pullover, R8 000, Kenzo joggers, R11 300, both Catheryne Gayela

48 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

FASHION

LANVIN Lanvin wrap dress, R42 900, Lanvin hat, R13 600, Lanvin necklace, R17 900, all 2A

TEAM PRODUCTION Sharon Becker PHOTOGRAPHY Steve Tanchel/Red Hot Ops HAIR Saadique Ryklief MAKEUP Lesley Whitby/ Lampost using MAC & Dermalogica MODEL Hauwa Dauda/Ice PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT Chris Bezuidenhout CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITOR Sheena Bagshawe FASHION ASSISTANT Khomotso Moloto FASHION INTERN Ranaa Patel LIGHTING Glow

Stockists on page 73

Autumn/Winter 2016 THE EDIT 49

ADVERTORIAL

Off-the-shoulder knit R140, turtleneck tee R70, skirt R130, all MRP

50 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

ADVERTORIAL

LAYER UP BE ON TREND WITH MIXED TEXTURES AND BOLD COLOURS FROM MR PRICE’S AUTUMN/WINTER OAKRIDGE EDIT. SHOP IN SELECT STORES AND AT MRP.COM Sleeveless blazer R180, turtleneck tee R70, scarf, R50, skinny denims R200, boots R240, all MRP

Autumn/Winter 2016

THE EDIT 51

ADVERTORIAL

Faux fur gilet R270, biker jacket R350, pussybow blouse R90, skirt R130, all MRP

52 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

PHOTOGRAPHER Merwelene van der Merwe DIGITAL ASSISTANT Zele Angelides LIGHTING ASSISTANT Anthony Henrico PRODUCTION Sharon Becker FASHION INTERNS Ranaa Patel and Lydia Wessels MODEL London at Fusion HAIR Saadique Ryklief MAKEUP Liz van der Merwe at Red Hot Ops

ADVERTORIAL

Longer-length shirt dress R150, pussybow tunic R130, both MRP

Autumn/Winter 2016 THE EDIT 53

OPINION

AS FASHION BRANDS FIGHT IT OUT FOR THE HEARTS AND MINDS OF CANNY MILLENNIALS, WHO IS WINNING THE RACE? Helen Jennings

MOSCHINO

TEXT

CHANEL

GENERATION NOW

54 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

OPINION

PHOTOGRAPHY GALLO IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES/VITTORIO ZUNINO CELOTTO, GALLO IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES/ANTONIO DE MORAES BARROS FILHO/LEBO LUKEWARM & SUPPLIED

A

ccording to research by Microsoft, a millennial’s attention span is a mere eight seconds. That’s less than the average goldfish. This “fact”, and many more besides, has been assumed of this generation, which is becoming the most studied, talked about and marketed-to of all time, putting Gen Xers and babyboomers in the shade. Also known as Generation Y, the term millennial refers to those born between the early 1980s and the early 2000s. They account for 19 million South Africans (around 2.5 billion people worldwide) and are now coming of age, dominating the workforce and hitting their peak purchasing years. Understanding their wants and needs is coming rapidly into focus for fashion brands hoping to woo them. And, as Facebook would say, it’s complicated.

Millennials are digital natives who have grown up in the internet age of cellphones, tablets and social media. True tech connoisseurs, they’re able to instantly access immeasurable information from around the world and are driven by virtual communities. They turn to their peers online to validate their opinions and purchases and are living hyper-connected, always-on lives. Statistics vary but one report by Sense Worldwide claims that 75% of connected millennials are never offline for more than an hour, no doubt resulting in a severe shared case of FOMO. Smartphones dictate how they make friends, listen to music, date and shop. They’re more likely to use Snapchat than e-mail and ephemeral videos and images reign due to their immediacy. Millennials are constantly bombarded with messages and are savvy to marketing, so traditional advertising is less effective. Having grown up in a recession and facing uncertain an future, they are entrepreneurial, resilient and culturally conscious. Our world has shrunk, which means we all live in more diverse societies where a sense of belonging is crucial.

And because crafting a clever online identity is so important, what millennials crave most are empowering experiences that show just how rich their lifestyles are. It’s less about ownership and wealth and more about doing and feeling – and taking a selfie to prove it. Fashion brands must therefore communicate on multiple platforms in an authentic and meaningful way that allows their customers to get involved.

Nike is among the most loved brands in millennial ranking surveys by both Goldman Sachs and Moosylvania thanks to its up-close-and-personal approach. At its first Nike Fuel Station in London, shoppers could see themselves on motion-sensitive LED walls and try out trainers on a digitised treadmill. It opened a pop-up shop in New York that resembled a supersized shoebox, access to which was only by online RSVP. And its #Instaposters campaign was a real-world experiment in Moscow that took images from Instagram of women working

LV heroine, variously Lightning (a character in Final Fantasy), actress Doona Bae and actor and rapper Jaden Smith looking suitably insouciant,ticking the computer-loving, globally minded, gender-fluid millennial interest boxes along the way.

Social media has irrevocably changed fashion shows. Once exclusive affairs for the eyes of a select few, now they are consumer-focused spectacles that must contain enough pizzazz to incite a galaxy of sharable moments that will communicate the message of the season to come in an instant.

Think Chanel’s feminist riot for SS15, Moschino’s carwash for SS16 or Givenchy’s 9/11 show for AW16, which starred 88 models, a tableau directed by performance artist Marina Abramović and views of New York’s Hudson River. This was only rivalled

by Kanye West, who unveiled Yeezy Season 3 and his latest album, The Life of Pablo, to 20 000 attendees at Madison Square Garden and more than 20-million viewers online. Around 1 200 models

‘MOVE AWAY FROM THE LANGUAGE OF FASHION AND MAKE IT ABOUT A LIFESTYLE AND AN ATTITUDE’ out and turned them into Banksy-style street art, which then provoked even more snaps – more than 27 000 images were posted.

Louis Vuitton has taken a belt-and-braces approach to attracting a younger audience with its recent campaigns. The new LV & Me alphabetical jewellery collection, with a lower price point, allows consumers to customise both the words spelt out on each piece and in an online video starring a sexy robot. Meanwhile, Series 4 for SS16 enlists high-profile photographers and artists to imagine the

stood still for 90 minutes before models Naomi Campbell, Liya Kebede, Alek Wek and Veronica Webb emerged in leotards and furs.

Following the right industry insider and influencer feeds during fashion weeks is a given – from fashion critic Suzy Menkes’s adorably fuzzy catwalk snaps to Man Repeller’s kookily curated street style. But since it launched last March, Twitter’s live-streaming platform Periscope that allows viewers to comment on “scopes” in real time, is becoming fashion’s new favourite way to entice millennials due to its raw, Autumn/Winter 2016

THE EDIT 55

ADIDAS ORIGINALS

OPINION

uncensored results. Hundreds of designers now use it across fashion month. Tommy Hilfiger recreated the beaches of Mustique for SS16 and clad model Gigi Hadid in a string bikini to lead sun-kissed beauties through a swimming pool, Periscoping the whole experience from backstage to deep end.

Burberry, one of the first luxury brands to embrace social media with its user-generated Art of the Trench blog in 2009, continues to lead the way.

It previewed its SS16 collection on Snapchat a day before London Fashion Week (LFW), then streamed the live event on Apple Music, which included a performance by Alison Moyet with a 32-piece orchestra. Cara Delevingne sat front row with the season’s must-have backpack on her lap, already monogrammed with her initials. Click, post, sold.

“I’m excited by technology and the way it allows people to experience fashion now,” Burberry CEO and chief creative officer Christopher Bailey told Business of Fashion. “My ideal vision is that you have a point of view and spirit that continues to flourish, stimulate and inspire more people in the outside world.”

Yet Instagram still reigns as fashion’s favourite app, boasting a higher engagement than Facebook or Twitter. From designers such as Misha Nonoo staging an Instashow in lieu of a live presentation during New York Fashion Week, to brands including Stella McCartney publishing Instashoots, brands are investing serious time and money into exclusives for the platform. During LFW AW16, Alexander

56 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

WITH A DEDICATED ONLINE PRESENCE CATERING SPECIFICALLY TO LOCAL AUDIENCES, ADIDAS ORIGINALS REGULARLY TEAMS UP WITH INFLUENCERS WHO SPEAK THE RIGHT LANGUAGE. McQueen was the most liked show and Victoria Beckham the most liked photo, according to Eva Chen, Instagram’s head of partnerships. But her top tip to follow is Alber Elbaz (@alberebaz8). “His account shows how designers can use Instagram in fun and interesting ways. I love his illustrations – they’re full of humour and wit. It’s really rewarding to see another side of such a legendary figure in fashion,” she says.

Olivier Rousteing above all others has perfected the art of the selfie with his tried-and-trusted technique – sucking in his cheeks and giving his iPhone the side eye. He’s also squarely repositioned Balmain to millennials with his embrace of diversity, celebrity and socially shrewd models. Last year’s Balmain x H&M collaboration was announced with a fan-focused show featuring vogueing dancers, the Backstreet Boys and Kendall Jenner (whose Kardashian pulling power outpaces any other model on Instagram by a long chalk – 50-million compared to runner-up Delevingne’s mere 27-million). Cue the collection becoming the most successful in H&M’s history, selling out in a matter of hours and inciting store mobs.

Dior teamed up with Rihanna – one of Rousteing’s favourite muses and perhaps the ultimate millennial squeeze – for its Secret Garden campaign last year. It included a film by Steven Klein shot in the Palace of Versailles and an exclusive Rihanna track. It made her the house’s first black spokesperson and secured attention for the brand

from Riri’s 56-million Twitter fans and 36-million Instagram fans (despite having her account repeatedly deleted due to nudity). Meanwhile, as creative director at Puma, the singer’s Fenty collection has seen the sports brand’s fourth quarter revenue rise 17%. Bitch better have her money.

Millennials are less label-faithful and more priceconscious than older demographics. They try to craft individual style by cherry picking influences from myriad scenes, genders, decades and continents.

So big, flashy logos are out, classic basics that can create several looks are in. This has boosted the popularity of American Apparel, Urban Outfitters, Converse, Cos and Uniqlo and helps to account for the recent normcore trend. They also expect great editorial from their digital surfing, explaining the upsurge in branded content on millennial media such as Vice, i-D, Dazed and Refinery29 and magazine-style stories on e-commerce sites such as Superbalist and Spree.

“In my experience most millennials have very specific tastes and habits. In terms of their style and how they consume things digitally, they’re a self-aware audience, in a good way. And despite common misconceptions, they have a long and healthy attention span for great content,” says Kelly Fulton, the South African-born, New York City-based creative director at Vice.

Her advice to fashion brands that want to connect with millennials is: “Try to not be a fashion brand. Give your consumer better experiences. Move away from the language of fashion and make it about a lifestyle and an attitude.”

One brand doing just that in SA is Adidas Originals. With a dedicated online presence catering specifically to local audiences, it regularly teams up with influencers who speak the right language. In recent months, Petite Noir and Lulama Wolf have worn its Tubular collection. And for its NMD style, it assembled a cast including The Sartists, Amanda du Pont, Trevor Stuurman, Tony Gum and Anatii.

The photographic project was debuted at Smith Gallery in Cape Town with Shelflife. “I’m usually seen wearing a plain white T-shirt, 501s and pair of Adidas. Simple. However, it’s how I further attach brands and customisations to that uniform that represents South African street culture. Making garments your own is what communicates personal style,” says The Sartists’ Xzavier Zulu.

“The South African millennial market is incredibly bold and creative. While they have access to ‘the west’ they filter everything through a uniquely South African lens. They think outside of the consumer culture bubble because they weren’t raised that way,” adds Fulton. For her, the case for millennial domination is clear. “They are passionate about their locality and they have a craving to share it with the world. There is real national pride and hope for the future despite its challenges. For the most part, the South African millennial is saving the country.”

MY LIFE MY BAG

L E AT H E R S H O P P E R R 1 7 9 9

CAPE: Canal Walk / Cavendish Kiosk / Somerset Mall / Garden Route Mall, George • GAUTENG: JHB: Rosebank / Clearwaters / The Glen • PTA: Kollonade / Centurion / Lynwood / Wonderpark / Cradlestone Mall, Krugersdorp / Waterfall Mall, Rustenburg / I’Langa Mall, Nelspruit • KZN: The Board Walk, Richards Bay / The Galleria, Amanzimtoti / Gateway Kiosk, Umhlanga Rocks / Pavilion Centre, Westville • FREE STATE: Diamond Pavilion, Kimberley / Mimosa Mall, Bloemfontein

Lipidol is a range of six new oils for daily skincare. Featured product: Lipidol Cleansing Body Oil 200ml. Washes off dirt without stripping the skin’s natural oily layer. Available at selected Clicks stores at the recommended retail price of R79.95. lipidol.com

BEAUTY

FIND YOUR WINTER SAVIOURS BY FOLLOWING OUR MAP OF SKINCARE SOLUTIONS. INDULGE IN RICH, FLORAL SCENTS TO WARM UP YOUR SENSES, AND TAKE AN INSPIRATIONAL BEAUTY CUE FROM OUR UPDATED TAKE ON ‘BARELY THERE’

Autumn/Winter 2016

THE EDIT 59

BEAUTY TRUE ROUGE (Previous page) For sun-kissed skin, ruddy-pink blush adds a fresh and welcome flush to cheeks.

MAC Cremeblend Blush in Posey, R275 Mesh coat, R3 500, mesh vest, R850, both Suzaan Heyns

TOUSLED HAIR, CLUMPY MASCARA, SKETCHY EYELINER AND SLIGHTLY STAINED LIPS ARE ESSENTIAL TO PERFECTING THE TREND TOWARDS IMPERFECTION

SHE’S COME

UNDONE PRODUCTION Sharon Becker & Tessa Passmore PHOTOGRAPHY Elford/ de la Forêt/Agent Emma

60 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

BEAUTY

JUST BITTEN Opt for matte, plum-stained lips for a subtle and natural-looking pout.

EstĂŠe Lauder Pure Color Envy Liquid Lip Potion in True Liar, R295 Blouse, R3 800, David Tlale

Autumn/Winter 2016

THE EDIT 61

BEAUTY

HOLY SMOKE

An eyeshadow primer keeps dark, smoky pigments looking rich an unwrinkled for longer.

Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion, R280 Pussy-bow blouse, R3 600, David Tlale; trousers, R2 800, Stefania Morland

62 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

BEAUTY

DOLL-EYED Gently grip eyelash tips after applying mascara and let them dry together.

Bobbi Brown Eye Opening Mascara, R360 Mesh vest, R850, Suzaan Heyns

TEAM PRODUCTION Sharon Becker and Tessa Passmore PHOTOGRAPHY Elford/de la ForĂŞt/Agent Emma HAIR Kevin Epstein MAKEUP Alet Viljoen/Supernova MODEL Nina Milner/Ice FASHION ASSISTANT Kelly Jean Egan Autumn/Winter 2016 THE EDIT 63

BEAUTY

IN THE EYE OF

THE BEHOLDER ‘BLACK BEAUTY’ HAS BEEN POLITICISED OVER THE AGES, BUT IS THAT CHANGING? TEXT

B

eauty in the 21st century wears many faces. If you go online you will find a number of articles detailing one experiment or another where a woman (usually European) supposedly sends out an image of herself to different countries where the image gets doctored into the “ideal” woman for that particular place.

Clearly, beauty ideals differ in different countries and ethnicities. The result, of course (and after I particularly saw the supposed ideal for beauty in South Africa) should probably be taken with a pinch of salt.

If you search “beauty” under Google images, you are bound to feel a mild depression if you are a person of colour. This is because nobody who remotely resembles you is featured in these images. The whole first page features Caucasian women with rosy pink cheeks, long straight hair and melanin-free skin. If you scroll to the bottom, you will eventually come across Puerto Rican fashion model Joan Smalls as the only face of colour. Search “black beauty” and all that appears is information on Anna Sewell’s 1877 novel by the same title. The book is about a horse.

A HISTORY OF BLACK BEAUTY Many lifetimes before Google, back when Africa was ruled by kings and queens, the women who went down in history as beautiful were also directly

QUEEN NEFERTITI

Mathahle Stofile

O’Mara Davis

linked to power. None of the images of these women that exist are photographs (only illustrations and busts) so we have no way of truly knowing what they looked like. Apart from historical illustrations and recorded descriptions of the women of that era as reference of what someone like Cleopatra looked like, we also have Hollywood to go on (again, pinch of salt). It is difficult to think of Cleopatra without the image of Elizabeth Taylor coming up – although it has been argued that, in fact, Cleopatra was no Liz Taylor in the looks department. We will never fully know.

Women like Queen Ahmose-Nefertari (circa 1570-1530 BC) who, ruling along with her husband King Ahmose, managed to eject the Hykos invaders from Africa; Queen Nefertiti of Egypt (circa 13701330 BC) said to possibly have been the most powerful woman in the history of Africa, as her husband made a point of treating her as an equal; and Cleopatra VII of Egypt (circa 69-30 BC) ruler of Egypt as co-regent for three decades, were not only powerful and respected rulers but also said to be quite beautiful and very influential.

A woman’s beauty back then, not unlike today, was deeply linked to how desirable men found her. Her hair, the symmetry of her facial features and the shape of her body all played an important role in determining a woman’s level of beauty and femininity. Certainly, in the imagery we have seen,

NANDI NDLOVUKAZI KABHEDE

64 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

ILLUSTRATIONS Colin

NZINGA MBANDI

symmetrical facial features and feline-like, blacklined eyes were a thing in Egypt. So were red lips.

Ancient African kingdoms, such as Nubia or Kush, especially considered women of a darker hue beautiful. Black as a colour was said to represent divinity and fertility. As such, all surviving portraits of Nefertari show her painted in black, which was a sign of prominence. It has been argued that the general perception of black women drastically changed around the 15th century, when one German Hans Vintler made claims, backed by an illustration, that King Solomon had “lost his mind because of a black temptress”. The illustration, Die Blumen der Tugend, shows the king (painted as a lily-white man) kneeling behind the Queen of Sheba (painted pitch black). He is looking hesitant while she has a deviant look as they both seem to be worshipping an idol. Pre Vintler’s illustration, negative portrayals of black women no doubt existed. However, his illustration contributed to the international racist stereotype that persists today.

Suddenly, it was no longer so easy to find art that portrayed black women as powerful or beautiful.

Closer to home, before Africa’s colonisation by Europe in the late 19th century, back in the 1600s, the kingdoms of Ndongo and Matamba (modernday Angola) gained a new ruler, Queen Nzinga Mbandi, who would go on to be known as not only a powerful but a ruthless warrior queen who fought for

DOLLY RATHEBE

NZINGA QUNTA

TRAVEL BEAUTY

the freedom of her people against the Portuguese, who were colonising the area and sourcing slaves.

Although Nzinga’s recorded legacy barely mentions her looks, her strength and determination to do right by her people while preserving their pride goes beyond physical or superficial beauty but speaks to the beauty that comes with strength and fearlessness.

There is a famous image of Nzinga meeting Portuguese governor Joao Corria de Sousa in about 1622. The story goes that this was the initial meeting with the Portuguese in which Nzinga represented her brother (then king – she later became queen after her brother’s death). On entering the room, she noted that the only chair was the one occupied by Corria de Sousa. She immediately motioned to one of her assistants, who promptly dropped to her hands and knees, serving as a chair to the queen-to-be.

Nzinga’s physical beauty, much like that of Nandi Ndlovukazi kaBhele (Shaka Zulu’s mother) was quite different from that of the Egyptian queens as recorded in history. Unlike Cleopatra’s famous short and sharp black bob, Nzinga’s hair was curly, coarse and short – closer to the typical South African hair texture. She had fully shaped lips, rounded curves, big eyes and a prominent nose.

Fast-forward to 1949 and the first international female film star to come out of Africa, Dolly Rathebe, is discovered in Sophiatown, South Africa.

Ms Rathebe (actor, singer and beauty queen) is said to have been such a beauty that when men greeted each other, they would say things are “Dolly” instead of “fine”. Rathebe, much like Queen Nzinga, had distinct features that are commonly attributed to African women. She later became a mentor to other women who made it after her -- who were also considered to be great beauties -- such as Miriam Makeba, Thandi Klaasen, Dorothy Masuka and Sophie Mgcina. In the late 1950s, it was Nomzamo Winifred (Winnie) Mandela (now Madikizela-Mandela) who became a prominent

WINNIE MANDELA

PEARL THUSI

face of beauty in SA. Once again, her beauty was not just in her physical features, which many will agree to have been stunning – it was her gutsy attitude, her strength, her love for her people and an unshakeable belief in justice and freedom that made her beauty hit you in the gut.

BLACK BEAUTY IS POLITICAL After colonisation and during apartheid, black people’s (especially women’s) looks became politicised and sexualised, so much so that as an African woman, to the world you were either an exotic or fetishised beauty, or completely invisible.

A columnist at The Guardian newspaper, Elizabeth Pears, put it well when she said: “That’s a common theme of black beauty. It’s very rarely just beautiful – it’s exotic, a novelty, tokenism or it’s nonexistent.”

This was evident in the 19th century, when Europe had “human zoo” exhibits where caged Africans, including Saartjie Baartman, were subjected to public displays of their naked bodies at which Europeans could openly gawk. Soon, North

your frame more on the slight side (if you are a woman) and against you if you look the opposite of these things. Social media has managed to put out more images and ideas of “beauty” than traditional media ever did. As we see more diverse representations of beauty in all contexts normalised, we will see our own ideas of what beauty is evolve.

Today, our ideas of beauty in South Africa are not homogeneous. When the American beauty brand Garnier announced model Nzinga Qunta as the face for their brand in South Africa back in 2004, many were thrilled to see her wearing her hair in its natural coily form in all the television and print ads.

This was a first, as all models in ads (specifically beauty ads) were made to wear long, straight wigs (as is mostly still the case today). Before Garnier, in 2002, Bridget Masinga became second runner-up in the Miss SA pageant. This was a moment in history as she wore her hair in an afro – another first on the Miss SA stage. Today, Pearl Thusi’s huge afro is the envy of many as she is considered a beauty.

Nomzamo Mbatha is an actor whose gorgeous

IN THE 1950S, WINNIE MANDELA BECAME A PROMINENT FACE OF BEAUTY IN SA America joined in and in the early 1900s started hosting their own human exhibitions. “Black beauty” remains a political concept because “beauty” still defaults to whiteness, which is why we speak of Asian beauty, black beauty, never white beauty.

It is political because for centuries, black people have been oppressed in many ways that included negatively altering the way the world sees us, and the way we see ourselves.

DIFFERENT IDEALS OF BLACK BEAUTY For a very long time, the world has worked in your favour if the hue of your skin is lighter, the texture of your hair straighter and softer, and the size of

NYKHOR PAUL

smile, curves and flawless skin are considered the height of beauty. Some regard TV and radio personality Bonang Matheba’s slight frame and long straight wig a desirable look, while the outspoken, cropped-haired Sudanese model Nykhor Paul and the graceful and eloquent Kenyan actor Lupita Nyong’o’s short, coily hair, ebony skin and round, full lips, also epitomise beauty.

Personally, I live for the day when the word “beauty” will not have to be prefaced by one’s ethnicity or race. Africans have long been beautiful and affirmed in our own beauty – way before we were told what it means to be beautiful. It is something worth remembering.

ZIZO BHEDA

NOMZAMO MBATHA

Autumn/Winter 2016

THE EDIT 65

BEAUTY

SKIN

SOLUTIONS Looking for a seasonal facial routine but not sure where to start? For radiant skin that stands up to the elements, follow our solutions to suit your needs TEXT

Tessa Passmore

PHOTOGRAPHY

Supplied, iStock For a granular exfoliator…

Elemis Gentle Rose Exfoliator, R480

DRY Is your skin dry?

Yes? Lipidol Overnight Face Oil, R80

More dehydrated than dry?

Dermaceutic Regen Ceutic Skin Recovery Cream, R610

Dehydrated, dull and seriously thirsty?

Skinceuticals Hydrating B5, R1 259

Best of both – shiny and blemished skin?

Dermalogica Clearing Mattifier, R800

Or just dull? Use an exfoliator.

Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Line Smoothing Exfoliator, R325

SENSITIVE

A rinse-free cleanser?

Bioderma Sensibio Micellar Cleanser, R200

OILY

Shiny and enlarged pores?

Bioderma Sébium Pore Refiner, R240

Or simply need more of a boost?

Kiehl’s Turmeric & Cranberry Seed Energizing Radiance Masque, R465 Major blemishes?

Dermalogica Breakout Control, R750

66 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

Or prefer a wash-off cleanser for a super-clean feeling?

Uriage Roseliane DermoCleansing Fluid, R200

Need a night moisturiser for skin that hates fragrance?

Extra Ordinary Skincare Night Cream, R306

BEAUTY

Loss of volume around the mouth? Dr Gobac Biorestore Needle-Free, R850

Fine lines and furrows?

Clarins Super Restorative Night Cream, R1 375

AGEING ALREADY SIGNS

Try sunscreen with a tint for some light cover.

Heliocare 360 Fluid Cream SPF50+, R419

PREVENT

Prefer an enzymatic exfoliator?

Dr Gobac Exfoliating Mask, R399 An anti-ageing product that helps with pigmentation too?

Optiphi Complexion Control, R990

Very sensitive but dull? Try this exfoliator Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant, R1 020

AND DULL TRY AN EXFORLIATOR

DAY

Sensitive, red and blotchy?

Eucerin AntiRedness Concealing Day Care Tinted SPF 25 R230

NIGHT

Or something to protect your skin at night?

Skinceuticals Resveratrol BE, R2 300

Need a powerful daily antioxidant with a high dose of vitamin C? Dermaceutic C25 Cream, R620

PIGMENTATION

ANTIOXIDANT

For protection against pollution?

Kiehl’s Cilantro & Orange Extract Pollutant Defending Masque, R465

PROTECT

A solution that’s best for overall brightening?

Clarins Bright Plus Tri-Intensive Brightening Serum, R660

Protect and repair an uneven complexion with Bioderma Cicabio Arnica+ SPF50+ Soothing Repairing Care, R220

For a targeted treatment?

Uriage Depiderm Brown Spot Targeted Corrector, R265

Autumn/Winter 2016

THE EDIT 67

V&A WATERFRONT | SANDTON CITY | HYDE PARK COMING SOON

TRAVEL

WHO NEEDS A LONELY PLANET TRAVEL GUIDE WHEN QUINTESSENTIALLY ITALIAN DESIGNERS DOMENICO DOLCE + STEFANO GABBANA, THE FORCES BEHIND LUXURY FASHION HOUSE DOLCE & GABBANA, CAN TAKE YOU THROUGH THEIR PERSONAL HOT SPOTS, CITY BY CITY?

Autumn/Winter 2016

THE EDIT 69

TRAVEL

68 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

TRAVEL TRAVEL

WHAT IF WE

WENT TO ITALY? ILLUSTRATIONS Dolce

WHAT ARE YOUR THREE FAVOURITE ITALIAN CITIES? Domenico Dolce: That’s very difficult because we love them all. We’d spend days travelling around Italy if we could.

But if I have to pick only three cites, I would definitely recommend Venice for a romantic weekend, Milan for working and shopping and Catania, because it is near where I was born.

Stefano Gabbana: Capri, because it’s the most beautiful island in the world. Florence, for its Renaissance heritage and the little but wonderful Portofino, where I escape during summer weekends.

BEST PLACE TO DRINK YOUR MORNING COFFEE? DD: I like drinking a good coffee at a bar. Sometimes I stop at our Martini Bar on the way to the office. I always arrive very early.

SG: At home with my three labradors and four bengala cats.

WHERE DO YOU FIND THE MOST AMAZING GELATO? DD: In Taormina at the Bam Bar. Make sure to have both a gelato and a granita with whipped cream.

SG: If you are in Milan, go to Gelateria Marghera; it’s near my mum’s house.

It’s famous only for the locals but it’s the best one.

FAVOURITE ART GALLERIES? DD: Why would you close yourself off in a gallery when you can go to Venice or Portofino? Being there is like living in a museum 365 days a year.

IDEAL SPOT FOR A LONG, LAZY LUNCH? SG & DD: When we are in Milan, we love Martini Bistro, hidden inside our men’s store. It has a 1950s feeling; red velvet chairs, red brocade on the

& Gabbana

walls and the Milanesa cotoletta is to die for.

Bar – they do the best cocktails with Martini and ginger.

AND FOR AN INDULGENT DINNER? DD: When I am in Portofino I go to Puny or Gemelli near the harbour. They have the best raw fish.

SG: In a small trattoria in Trastevere in Rome or at Antica Pesa Roma, where you can have the best pasta all’Amatriciana ever.

IDEAL SPOT FOR DANCING? SG: I go to Club Plastic in Milan. Their Saturday night parties are the best.

Domenico doesn’t come with me – he prefers watching movies.

BEST LOCATION FOR A SELFIE? DD: I’m not good at taking selfies, but I think the Colosseum is Italy’s status symbol.

SG: Oh, I love selfies! But I’d prefer Milan’s Duomo.

BEST PLACE FOR PEOPLEWATCHING? DD: I love navigli and the new Darsena in Milan so much – typical for tourists in the city.

SECRET SHOPPING GEMS? DD: The Vucciria market in Palermo.

It’s like a movie come true. The food, the shouting people, the smells, the traffic…

SG: Antique jewellery stores in the Brera district in Milan.

FAVOURITE BOUTIQUE HOTEL? DD: Taormina’s Timeo Hotel. It was also the set for our advertising campaign.

SG: Portofino’s Splendido, with a complete view of the bay. It’s a dream hotel.

‘DURING SUMMER HOLIDAYS, ITALIANS TAKE THEIR APERITIFS IN SMALL BARS, WHILE DRINKING A SPRITZER IN VENICE’S PIAZZA SAN MARCO’ SG: During summer holidays, Italians take their aperitifs in small bars, while drinking a spritzer in Venice’s Piazza San Marco or in the Capri Piazzetta.

It’s beautiful because you see a lot of different kinds of people. It can be very funny.

WHO SERVES THE BEST COCKTAILS? DD: Sometimes I go to the Bulgari Hotel in Milan, but we usually go to Martini

FAVOURITE MEMORY IN THE CITY? DD: Most of my memories are in Sicily, where I was born and the place that inspires our fashion. I come from the Madonie mountains and my best memories are still there.

SG: When we opened our first office at Milan’s Piazza 5 Giornate. It was so small – now we have more than 5 000 people working for us and can say that we achieved our dream.

Autumn/Winter 2016

THE EDIT 71

PROFILE

The Black Photo Album/Look at Me: 1890-1950 by Santu Mofokeng

Louis XV by Juergen Teller and Charlotte Rampling

I READ

WHAT I LIKE Lunetta Bartz, founder of design studio Maker, shares the books she loves best PRODUCTION Sharon Becker Aubrey Jonsson/One League & Lydia Wessels HAIR Saadique Ryklief MAKEUP Liz van der Merwe/Red Hot Ops

PHOTOGRAPHY

Stories: 1, Train Church by Santu Mofokeng

Woo! by Juergen Teller

“Like most people, I have always loved books, but I find picture books magical.

My tiny collection includes artists’ books, zines, illustrated poetry books, Japanese graphic novels, select fashion publications and a few architecture and photography monographs. Refined design combined with exquisite printing makes my heart sing, hence my love for anything by German publishing house Steidl. After four years of me hounding Gerhard Steidl, the founder of Steidl, he finally published Santu Mofokeng’s The Black Photo Album/Look at Me: 1890 – 1950, which won a gold medal for best photo book in Germany in 2013. In 2015, together with Joshua Chuang, Steidl published Mofokeng’s Stories: 1, Train Church, the first in the series of 18 books to be published by Steidl over the next two years. Maker, my design studio, now represents Steidl in South Africa and sells a select cross section of its books.”

Gypsies by Josef Koudelka

72 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

Six magazines by Comme des Garçons between 1988 and 1990

LUNETTA WEARS SUPERELLA

makerstudio.co.za

TOP, R3 800, BLACK COFFEE; TROUSERS, R320, VINTAGE AND THE CITY

STOCKISTS 2A 011 325 4545 Accessorize accessorize.co.za Armand Dicker 060 977 0868 Black Coffee blackcoffee.co.za Burberry 011 325 5923 Calvin Klein 021 418 1185 Cartier 011 666 2800 Catheryne Gayela 011 447 2550 Charles & Keith charleskeith.com/za Chulaap 082 333 0657 Clarks 011 675 7377 Clive Rundle cliverundle.com Colette by Colette Hayman 011 880 2134 Cotton On 011 447 3961 Country Road woolworths.co.za Crystal Birch 079 405 0150 David Tlale davidtlale.com Day Birger et Mikkelsen 011 447 0839 Diesel 011 783 0882 Dolce & Gabbana 011 326 7808 Dorothy Christodoulou Optometrist 011 447 7783 Dr Martens 011 880 6543 Dune London 011 685 7055 Edgars edgars.co.za Erato erato.co.za Eyecandy Optometrists 011 325 4434 Forever 21 011 883 0025 Forever New 011 883 4585 Fossil 011 784 0516 Gabrielle Kannemeyer 083 282 6974 Gavin Rajah 021 424 7842 G-Star Raw 021 418 9000 Gregor Jenkin Studio gregorjenkin.com Gucci 011 326 7928 H&M hm.com/za Henriette Botha henriette-botha.myshopify.com Jigsaw 011 447 0974 Jimmy Choo 011 326 6658 Karen Millen 011 784 2937 Louis Vuitton 011 784 9854 Lukhanyo Mdingi x Nicholas Coutts lukhanyomdingi.co.za Luxottica 021 486 6151 Mango 011 783 7907 Maison Mara maisonmara.co.za Mat & May matandmay.co.za Mimco woolworths.co.za Mr Price mrp.com Naked Ape nakedapestyle.co.za Nicci Boutique nicci.co.za Nicholas Coutts 079 567 1129 Nine West 011 783 2356 Old Khaki 021 418 2240 Palladium 011 444 2270 Paul Smith 011 268 0352 Pichulik pichulik.com Polo polo.co.za Prada 011 326 7517 Pringle of Scotland 011 783 4355 Reminiscene 011 726 7905 River Island 011 685 7090 Safilo 011 548 9600 SDM Eyewear sdmeyewear.co.za Simon and Mary simonandmary.co.za Spitz spitz.co.za Stefania Morland stefaniamorland.com Steve Madden 011 784 0406 Stuttafords 011 783 5212 Sunglass Hut sunglasshut.com/za Superella 082 845 5551 Suzaan Heyns suzaanheyns.com Swatch swatch.com/en_za/ TAG Heuer 011 784 7422 The Eyemakers Morningside 011 783 9999 Tiger of Sweden 011 784 0561 Tokyo James tokyojames.co.uk Topshop 011 685 7070 Tudor 011 784 0203 Von Zipper 042 200 2600 Watch Republic watchrepublic.co.za Witchery woolworths.co.za Woolworths woolworths.co.za * Prices and availability were checked at the time of going to press.

Sunday Times The Edit cannot guarantee that prices will not change or that items will be in stock at the time of publication

Autumn/Winter 2016 THE EDIT 73

YOU ARE INVITED! FROM APRIL 14-17, SANDTON CITY’S DIAMOND WALK WILL DELIGHT AND CHARM YOU WITH ITS LUXE LIFE IN THE CITY EXPERIENCE. THE EDIT MAGAZINE, A SUNDAY TIMES PUBLICATION, HAS PARTNERED WITH THE WORLD’S MOST LUXURIOUS BRANDS TO HOST YOU, OUR VALUED SUBSCRIBERS, AT A SERIES OF BESPOKE EVENTS DESIGNED FOR YOU TO EXPERIENCE AND DISCOVER THE 2016 AUTUMN / WINTER SEASON IN STYLE. EMAIL THEEDIT@SUNDAYTIMES.CO.ZA FOR THE FULL PROGRAMME OF ACTIVITIES, INCLUDING TREND TALKS, SCENT EXPERIENCES, PARTIES AND POPUPS FEATURING PRADA, DOLCE & GABBANA, LOUIS VUITTON, JIMMY CHOO, BVLGARI, CARTIER, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA AND ARQUE CHAMPAGNE BAR. #COME TO THE CITY. SANDTON CITY.

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AUTUMN/WINTER ’16

Winter 2016

ON THE COVER PHOTOGRAPHY KEVIN MACKINTOSH STYLIST GABRIELLE KANNEMEYER AT ONE LEAGUE/LAMPOST PRODUCTION DESIGNER DARYL MCGREGOR

T-shirt, R6 555, Gucci; scarf around model’s waist, R499, Country Road; pants, R1 560, Chulaap

30

EDITORIAL

AUTUMN/WINTER 2016

CONTENTS upfront ED’S LETTER IT LIST fashion & beauty Runway report The accessories edit Grooming: Fragrances Grooming: News

EDITOR Sharon Becker sharonb@timesmedia.co.za CREATIVE DIRECTOR Megan Guyt ART DIRECTOR Nicol Paterson MANAGING EDITOR Matthew McClure FASHION AND BEAUTY WRITER Ntombenhle Shezi FASHION ASSISTANT Khomotso Moloto BEAUTY EDITOR Tessa Passmore FASHION INTERN Ranaa Patel DESIGN INTERN Lydia Wessels SUB-EDITOR Yvonne Fontyn

21

ADVERTISING ACCOUNT MANAGERS Faith Thomas faith@fashionedit.co.za, 082 852 8998 Charlotte Nutman (coastal) nutmanc@timesmedia.co.za, 078 358 6154 ADVERTISING CO-ORDINATOR Jamie Kinnear

04 06 10 14 16

PUBLISHER Aspasia Karras PRINTING Paarl Media Gauteng Published by Times Media (Pty) Ltd 4 Biermann Avenue, Rosebank, Johannesburg.

fashion The OUTPOST Utility wear in the Karoo

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© Copyright: Times Media (Pty) Ltd. No portion of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without written consent of the publishers. The publishers are not responsible for unsolicited material. The Edit is published by Times Media (Pty) Ltd. The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of Times Media (Pty) Ltd. All advertisements, advertorials and promotions have been paid for and therefore do not carry any endorsement by the publishers.

feature A CUT ABOVE Tailors and their muses

30

grooming WITNESS THE FITNESS Instagram fitspiration

I READ WHAT I LIKE Siphiwe Mpye’s favourite books Stockists on page 73

02 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

34 36

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Saffiano arrow leather wallet, R11 850; Saffiano robot charm key chain, R3 700, both Prada

A GENTLEMAN’S WARDROBE IS INCOMPLETE WITHOUT THE RIGHT ACCESSORIES. WE GIVE YOU MODERN PIECES IN CLASSIC COLOURS, AND SHOW YOU HOW TO ACE THE NEO-1970S TREND AND PUT YOUR BEST FOOT FORWARD IN A PAIR OF SLEEK CHELSEA BOOTS. THE RUNWAY INSPIRES US TO BREAK THE RULES BY BLURRING GENDER LINES. PRINT ON PRINT IS A WINNER AND SQUARES IN ALL SIZES WILL HAVE YOU LOOKING SHARP. ENJOY!

04 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

PHOTOGRAPHY JUDD VAN RENSBURG PRODUCTION JENNY ANDREW

TREND

TRENDS

From a full-on 1970s revival to thoughtfully curated accessories and accents, our catwalk roundup is the only guide you’ll need to keep your style in check this season THE MAN-BAG

Each season, the man-bag gets bigger, bolder and louder. This winter is no exception with bags in statement-making prints and their very own accessories – take note of the Fendi Monster. In other words, arm candy is no longer reserved for the girls.

BOY MEETS GIRL

A necessary alternative to black and navy, the “it” colours this season are much softer, in warm hues such as burgundy and brown.

Wear separately or pair together.

DRIES VAN NOTEN

COMFORTING TONES

VALENTINO

LANVIN

WOOYOUNGMI

GUCCI

We’re blurring the lines and revisiting how we view masculinity, and fashion is following suit. Saint Laurent, J W Anderson and Gucci all explored the shift – defined gender boundaries are so passé.

FOREVER YOUNG Fashion isn’t always so serious and off-beat, slightly bizarre trends packaged in fun are always welcome. In some of the coolest collections we’ve seen, menswear sees a clash of colour in primary brights, cartooned prints that reference toys and an unusual use of fabrics.

LANVIN AGI & SAM

06 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

OVERSIZED COATS A long-line, oversized coat in luxurious wool or cashmere is this season’s version of the parka. Look to Lanvin and Wooyoungmi’s cool new shapes.

PHOTOGRAPHY GALLO IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES/CATWALKING; GALLO IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES/ANTONIO DE MORAES BARROS FILHO & GALLO IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES/VICTOR BOYKO

BURBERRY PRORSUM

CURVE

LOUIS VUITTON

AHEAD OF THE

TRENDS

WIDE OPEN Fashion is moving on from the skinny, slim leg. The newgeneration trouser is baggier and billowy (but not sweat pants). Sharp tailoring is key to this re-emerging silhouette.

HAIDER ACKERMANN

J W ANDERSON

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

LANVIN

MAISON MARGIELA

The ’70s revival hit womenswear hard the last two seasons and has undeniably made its way to menswear with winged collars, flared trousers, faux fur and, of course, velvet for some extra rock’n’roll.

SO SHEARLING

SQUARE UP Print-on-print keeps returning to the runways. This year’s frontrunner was the square in all shapes and sizes, from small and subtle grids to bigger blocked-out colours.

AGI & SAM

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

Never really out of style, shearling detail is an evergreen find that makes a strong statement. The shaggy texture was seen at Dior Homme, Fendi and Burberry.

08 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

A refined, sophisticated overall look is favoured this season with the help of the fashion equivalent of a full stop to punctuate your look. The scarf is taken seriously by Burberry Prorsum and Gucci, creating very necessary detail around the neckline.

HERMÈS

BURBERRY PRORSUM

DIOR HOMME

WITH A TWIST

PHOTOGRAPHY GALLO IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES/CATWALKING; GALLO IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES/IAN GAVAN; GALLO IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES/FRANCOIS G. DURAND & GALLO IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES/VICTOR BOYKO

VELVET GOLDMINE

UNION GINGHAM FINAL LARGE SCALE

TRENDS

THE ACCESSORIES

EDIT

Go from simple to sleek and style up your look with our novelty finds

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OLD NAVY

Bag, R879, scarf, R249, both River Island; Lacoste sneaker, R1 295; Spitz Heritage Black Bay watch (leather strap included) R44 040, Tudor

NEW NOIR

Bag, R48 400, Gucci; belt, R379, River Island; trainers, R3 499, Diesel; sunglasses, R1 805, Ray-Ban at Luxottica

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DESIGNER BACKPACK

Backpack, POR, Prada

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THE CHELSEA BOOT Boot, POR, Prada

Boot, R2 300, Pringle

4

10 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

John Drake boot, R899, Edgars

THE MODERN GENT

Feathered lapel pin, R159, River Island; bag, POR, Gucci; scarf, R249, River Island; Carrera Calibre 5 Day-Date Automatic Watch, R52 520, TAG Heuer

TRENDS

7

THE WORKER BOOT

Boot, R749, H&M

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NEO 70S

Scarf, R279, River Island; sunglasses, POR, Prada; bag, R32 200, Gucci; Moccasins, R649, River Island Boot, R3 999, Diesel

SHADES OF BROWN

Boot, R5Â 990, Clarks

Gucci sunglasses, R3 690, Safilo; watch, R2 599, Fossil; satchel, R2 199, Mat & May

Stone Harbour boot, R899, Edgars

Watch, R1 560, Swatch; backpack, R779, River Island; Stone Harbour sneaker, R300, Edgars

12 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

10

GREY AREA

Bag, R999, River Island; beanie, R349, Trenery; shoes, R8 000, Prada

PHOTOGRAPHY SUPPLIED

9

ALL WHITE

MY PERFECT WEEKEND BAG

L E AT H E R H O L D A L L R 3 6 9 9

CAPE: Canal Walk / Cavendish Kiosk / Somerset Mall / Garden Route Mall, George • GAUTENG: JHB: Rosebank / Clearwaters / The Glen • PTA: Kollonade / Centurion / Lynwood / Wonderpark / Cradlestone Mall, Krugersdorp / Waterfall Mall, Rustenburg / I’Langa Mall, Nelspruit • KZN: The Board Walk, Richards Bay / The Galleria, Amanzimtoti / Gateway Kiosk, Umhlanga Rocks / Pavilion Centre, Westville • FREE STATE: Diamond Pavilion, Kimberley / Mimosa Mall, Bloemfontein

GROOMING

POWER

PLAY TEXT Tessa Passmore PHOTOGRAPHY

Judd van Rensburg

Nothing sends a warmer signal than a seductive scent. Take your pick from our fine selection of strong, ambery fragrances

Bvlgari Man in Black EDT R1 610 for 100ml Tuberose, tonka bean and guaiac wood

14 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

BOSS The Collection Damask Oud by Hugo Boss EDT R1 695 for 50ml White pepper, incense and agarwood

Guerlain L’Homme Ideal EDT R1 220 for 50ml Rosemary, almond and cedar

Dolce & Gabbana The One Essence Pour Homme EDP R1 615 for 100ml Ginger, cardamom and amber

GROOMING

GROOMING

NEWS

Feeling (and looking) fresh is always in fashion. Here’s a roundup of our best grooming buys for the season

TEXT Tessa Passmore PHOTOGRAPHY Supplied

& Franck Welker

DYNAMIC DUO These freshly scented TIGI gems add volume and texture to your hair, thanks to hair-fibre boosters.

To add more oomph to your locks, we suggest TIGI Bed Head for Men Charge Up Thickening Shampoo, R220, along with TIGI Bed Head for Men Charge Up Thickening Conditioner, R305.

Say hi to Jason Anthony, who has walked in major shows like Dolce & Gabbana and featured in campaigns like Dior Homme.

The best part, though? He’s born and bred in SA. Bravo!

NUMBERS DON’T LIE

A SCENT ESSENTIAL Paul Smith’s new scent has a freshness that comes from the ozonic accord and a citrus top note of yuzu. Then there’s clary sage in the heart and cedarwood and patchouli in the base, giving it a classic smoothness. Paul Smith Essential, R1 095 for 100ml EDP

16 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

If you’re serious about taking your grooming regime to the next level, try SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2, R2 450, an anti-ageing moisturiser from one of our favourite skincare brands.

The secret lies in the ingredient formulation: 2% ceramides, to help rejuvenate skin’s barrier function; 4% cholesterol, to stabilise the skin’s outermost layer and improve elasticity, and 2% fatty acids. Give dry, dull skin a boost with this cream, which has been clinically tested to increase hydration by 39% and reduce pore size by 18%. And did we mention the 66% improvement in smoothness?

Convincing stats all round.

MR FORD SAYS: GROOM Finally! Tom Ford Grooming is available in SA. We’re particularly enamoured with the Tom Ford For Men Conditioning Beard Oil, R745 and tortoise shell Beard Comb, R540 to make for the most luxurious morning routine.

Available from selected Stuttafords stores.

CHARCOAL TO THE RESCUE

Dermalogica’s new Charcoal Rescue Masque, R790, is the ultimate treat. The charcoal acts like a magnet, attracting and absorbing impurities and excess oil. Other ingredients include antibacterial sulphur, which is good for relieving acne; exfoliating volcanic ash and marine silt, and phytic, lactic and mandelic acid to remove dead skin cells.

ADVERTORIAL

COOL AND CLASSIC KNITS, TIMELESS DENIM AND WARM AUTUMN TONES ARE HIGHLIGHTS FROM MR PRICE’S AUTUMN/WINTER OAKRIDGE EDIT. SHOP IN SELECT STORES AND AT MRP.COM

Crew-neck knit R160, check shirt R170, straight-fit chinos R190, felt bowler hat R150, all MRP

Autumn/Winter 2016

THE EDIT 17

ADVERTORIAL

Denim jacket R300, striped fleece pullover R180, straight-fit chinos R190, shoes R200, all MRP

18 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

ADVERTORIAL

PHOTOGRAPHY Supplied

Fleece jacket R250, flannel check shirt R180, slim-fit denims R170, all MRP

Autumn/Winter 2016 THE EDIT 19

SANDTON CITY V&A WATERFRONT GATEWAY CLEARWATER SELECTED EDGARS STORES

FASHION

PHOTOGRAPHER KEVIN MACKINTOSH AND STYLIST GABRIELLE KANNEMEYER TAKE US ON A JOURNEY TO THE KAROO, WHERE THE CAPTIVATING LANDSCAPE AND VIBRANT AUTUMN HUES BRING UTILITY WEAR TO LIFE

Autumn/Winter 2016

THE EDIT 21

FASHION

Shirt, stylist’s own; bucket pants, R1 625, Lukhanyo Mdingi x Nicholas Coutts; belt, R250, Nicholas Coutts; bamboo socks, R100 for pack of three and sandals, R120, Woolworths; metal staff, price on request, Striking Metal PREVIOUS PAGE Hat, R5 467, Burberry; belt in hand, R250, Nicholas Coutts; AK-47 wrap blanket, R2 697, Chulaap; shorts, R250, bamboo socks R100 for pack of three and sandals, R120, all Woolworths

22 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

FASHION

THE OUTPOST GET DOWN ’N DIRTY IN UTILITY WEAR LAYERED IN AUTUMN TONES PHOTOGRAPHER Kevin

Mackintosh

STYLIST Gabrielle Kannemeyer, PRODUCTION DESIGNER Daryl McGregor

One League & Lampost

Autumn/Winter 2016

THE EDIT 23

FASHION Jumpsuit, R4Â 999, G-Star Raw; tassel belt, R349, Country Road

24 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

FASHION Watch, R4 800, Calvin Klein; scarf, R13 995, Burberry; Reveal perfume, R1 400, Calvin Klein

Autumn/Winter 2016 THE EDIT 25

FASHION Hat, R1 600, Crystal Birch; T-shirt, R325, Old Khaki; safari sleeveless jacket, stylist’s own; military jacket, R1 860, Chulaap; wool rope, price on request, Lukhanyo Mdingi x Nicholas Coutts; dyed springbok shorts, R2 200, Armand Dicker

26 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

FASHION Shirt, stylist’s own; denim jacket, R2 999, G-Star Raw

Autumn/Winter 2016

THE EDIT 27

FASHION

Felt hat, R925, Simon and Mary; suede coat with brass clasps, R12 742, Tokyo James; shorts, R400, by Gabrielle Kannemeyer, manufactured

by Wilton Dawson; bamboo socks, R100 for pack of three, Woolworths; sandals, price on request, Lukhanyo Mdingi x Nicholas Coutts

TEAM PHOTOGRAPHER Kevin Mackintosh STYLIST Gabrielle Kannemeyer, One League PRODUCTION DESIGNER Daryl McGregor MODEL David Balheim, Outlaws GROOMING Tina Hoffmann, One League DIGITAL TECH Anke Loots LOCATION Booley’s Foundry, Prince Albert POST PRODUCTION Graeme Bulcraig, Touch Digital London Special thanks De Bergkant Lodge, Prince Albert (debergkant.co.za) and Chantel, Infidels

Stockists on page 73

28 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

Autumn/Winter 2016 THE EDIT 29

FASHION

FRANK BESPOKE According to master tailor Grant van den Berg, these steps and these steps alone are how one goes about creating a bespoke suit, exemplified by his brand Frank Bespoke: choose your cloth wisely, based on taste, tendencies, peculiarities and penchants – and, most importantly, form.

Next, select the style that suits you best, with measurements taken for the perfect fit. Once your cloth is in the safe hands of a master tailor, it’s time for pattern-making and at this stage, you can start daydreaming about becoming James Bond as your suit dreams materialise. Then, when your suit is as good as ready, the master tailor invites you for a fitting, going over finer details and accessories for supplementary swagger. At this stage, all you have to worry about is where to wear your perfectly handmade suit. To make an appointment, visit frankbespoke.co.za.

30 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

FASHION

A CUT

ABOVE STEP INTO THE WORLD OF SOME OF SA’S FINEST SUIT-MAKERS – AND THOSE WHO WEAR THEIR GARMENTS BEST PRODUCTION Sharon Becker PHOTOGRAPHY Ross Garrett/Lampost

Autumn/Winter 2016

THE EDIT 31

FASHION

ROW-G “Wandile Motlana made the most sense as my favourite client because he’s a friend first. We studied together in high school. We always have a lot of fun kitting him out – he has the same eye and attention to detail and is certainly unconventional in his aesthetic and style,” says Rahim Rawjee, the man behind hugely dapper, made-to-measure Row-G menswear. “I wouldn’t say we ‘experiment’ with style because we both kind of know what works and what doesn’t, while remaining chic and edgy without it getting to ‘where am I going in this’? Wandile understands where to hold back, where to push boundaries and what makes a guy desirable and sexy. Pretty much what Row-G is all about.” For a selection of made-to-measure options and a plethora of cloth sourced from the finest mills in the world, to suit your personal predilections, tastes and desires, get suited at row-g.com.

RAPHAEL MUKENDI A fusion of colours and local cultures, Raphael Mukendi is founded on a desire to create individual pieces, each with a story behind them, made with the finest fabrics and the detailed precision that custom-made tailored suits deserve. “We always say we don’t just make suits, we make memories,” says the brand that dresses many of SA’s celebrities and well-known personalities. Whether you have a special design in mind you’d like reproduced or a new-wave suit that’s yet to see the light of day, Raphael Mukendi specialises in manifesting ideas, be they red-carpet tuxedos or classic three-piece and two-piece suits, from R5 000 for men and R4 500 for women, with a range of almost 1 000 material samples from which to choose. Prices include consultation, measuring, fitting and alterations. Book a fitting at raphaelm.co.za.

TEAM PRODUCTION Sharon Becker PHOTOGRAPHY Ross Garrett/Lampost GROOMING Saadique Ryklief FASHION ASSISTANT Khomotso Moloto FASHION INTERN Ranaa Patel LIGHTING Glow

32 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

TRAVEL FASHION

NAKED APE For suit-smart gentlemen with street-style sensibilities and ecofriendly leanings, look no further than Naked Ape. Having dressed the likes of actors Boris Kodjoe and Samuel L Jackson and singersongwriter Vikter Duplaix, founder Shaldon Kopman’s bespoke, finely tailored garments take eccentricity and creativity seriously, while leaving ample room for playful, unique interpretation.

The local brand prides itself on ecological and economical use

of natural fabrics, because, as Kopman says, “an evolutionary wardrobe is part of the eco movement”. One of his favourite clients? Artist Nelson Makamo, “a true African visionary whose effortless style allows us to free flow when it comes to designing and crafting ensembles for him”. Naked Ape bestsellers include the Swazi wrapper – a multifunctional shawl – personalised concept blazers priced from R9 995-R35 000, and timeless leather shoes from R2 850-R4 500. nakedapestyle.co.za.

Autumn/Winter 2016

THE EDIT 33

@TOBI_PEARCE

@DYLANWERNERYOGA

@SIMEONPANDA

@THEROCK

@ALEXHONNOLD

@DEANDREYOGA

@TRAVISLOGIE

@RYANSANDES

GROOMING

#WITNESSTHEFITNESS GET SOME FITSPIRATION FROM THE NEW WAY TO TRAIN – INSTAGRAM, OF COURSE TEXT

F

lexed, firm and bronzed bodies are all over Instagram and no, we’re not talking about those hidden porn accounts. Among the ’grams of salads, selfies and boomerangs of Table Mountain, there’s a steady increase of seemingly ‘just snapped’ #bodiesofinstagram – those fitness buffs gleaming in the light of Valencia.

In 2016 it’s easier to get a daily dose of fitspiration from motivational videos like Kenneth Gallarzo’s explosive pushups (@progressive_ calisthenics) or admiring perfect form and impossible deadlifts with Ben Smith (@bsmit13) or learning ‘spinal awakening Vinyasa’ from Dylan Werner (@dylanwerneryoga) rather than visit a reallife trainer.

But is this a realistic way to sculpt or is it merely a motivational tool? Theresa Moodie, personal trainer and accredited yoga instructor (@ theresamoodie) says: “I wouldn’t discredit social media as a resource for fitness inspiration -- so many more people now have the opportunity to tell their story via Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

“There are some hilarious and truly motivating fitness posts out there that can normalise the days you just don’t feel like training.”

A true social media success story is Australian trainer Kayla Itsines (@kayla_itsines) whose worldwide empire began when a user purchases her online guide. Itsines then posts before and after 34 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

Tessa Passmore

shots of her clients with the tag #BBG. A complete phenomenon, her community of followers even organise boot camp ‘sweat with Kayla’ events – without her being in the same country. Her secret?

Other than an easy (ish) to-follow-programme, she’s the most upbeat and positive person in a world of online fat shamers. Comments and motivational quotes like “Nothing holds you back more than your own insecurities” and “You are doing great” yield 48.3k likes, 1 234 comments and countless tags, proving that positivity rules.

This is not always the case, though. Take American native and Associated Press bureau chief Bill Kole (@billkole) who live tweeted 26 times during the Boston marathon in 2014. Sure, he added a few extra hours to his time but his followers increased overnight and his charitable sentiments (to honour the three people killed and 260 people injured in the previous year’s bombings) with the hashtag #26Tweets2Boston were recognised.

Except one follower, who tweeted: “@billkole @ AP just run the damn race.. ya whiney little beeaach”. So, it’s all well and good to have fans cheering enthusiastically on the sidelines (or in the comments section) but when they’re at home sitting eating popcorn on the couch trolling your efforts and fat (and fit) shaming your hard work?

Psychologist Paul Galbraith says: “Social media can contribute to body dissatisfaction, and in

extreme cases, body dysmorphia. It is possible that these accounts fuel a preoccupation with body image and fitness. If these preoccupations become excessive to a degree where dissatisfaction with your body becomes the dominant way to see yourself, this can become distressing,” he says.

Essena O’Neill, an Australian teen (who’s since made her account private) with close-on half a million followers, made headlines last year when she deleted thousands of her posts and re-captioned others to depict what each ‘snapshot’ really took to create. For example, alongside a picture of her in a bikini: “Not real life, took a 100 in similar poses trying to make my stomach look good.”

It’s no secret that things that may look realistic on Instagram often aren’t. After all, it’s unlikely we share the average goings-on of the day: “Sitting in traffic on Sandton Drive, spilt my flat white #nousecryingoverspiltmilk, #traffic #dailygrind”.

Rather, it’s the groovy Cape Town sunset we showcase, “#mojito, #livingthelife”. It’s become a carefully crafted ‘advertising’ medium with some major fashion and lifestyle brands carefully photographing and curating the content for online – just like advertising in a magazine.

The same goes for fitness posts: forget a blurry shot of our sneakers pre-jog; instead, we prefer (and are seeing more of) a perfectly sculpted pair of triceps rippling in the sunny highlights of a well-lit

@MATHEWFRAS

@PROGRESSIVE_CALISTHENICS

@BSMIT13

@GREGMINNAAR

GROOMING

FITSTAGRAM

LOOKING FOR YOUR NEWEST FITNESS FIX? FOLLOW THESE GUYS TO MOTIVATE YOU FOR THE NEXT JOG – OR SHOULD WE SAY WOD (WORKOUT OF THE DAY)?

gym, (sans shirt of course) with tags like #30dips #tricepsdefined #40reps, a more selective version of events. So then, knowing what we know of social media, who’s to say this becomes a true reflection of fitness motivation and success? In reality, do these posts motivate us to dash out the door and start lunging, or do they make us feel like a failure?

Moodie says: “There’s a reason group yoga classes and running groups, etc are still so popular -people like to share and connect in the real world to stay motivated.”

Galbraith says the skewed version of reality on social media can create unachievable expectations.

“When people experience themselves negatively in comparison with what they are seeing on social media, then they may experience low self-esteem.

By the same token, if people set themselves realistic and achievable goals based on the motivation they derive from the personalities they follow, then the attainment of these goals can promote self-esteem.”

With this in mind do we really take fitness trainers and inspirers seriously? We say yes just take US free-solo climber Alex Hannold (@ alexhannold) as an example. His fitness endurance coupled with breathtaking scenery of a Yosemite sunrise is bound to get the inspirational juices flowing, even if its just for 10 minutes before we head along Sandton Drive, #flatwhite in hand, up towards the #dailygrind.

Name: Ryan Sandes Handle: @ryansandes Who: Ultra-distance trail runner. Expect posts of extraordinary landscapes and his extreme endurance.

Followers: 14.8k Name: Travis Logie Handle: @travislogie Who: A bi-coastal surfer between SA and the US. Followers: 29k Name: Tobi Pearce Handle: @tobi_pearce Who: Other half of worldwide Aussie phenomenon Kayla Itsines, Pearce is a body builder himself.

Followers: 73k Name: Greg Minnaar Handle: @gregminnaar Who: Three times South African downhill mountain bike world champion.

Followers: 97.2k Name: De’Andre Sinette Handle: @deandreyoga Who: Dallas-based yogi who just a few years ago began his journey and has since gained a steady

following.

Followers: 109k Name: Ben Smith Handle: @bsmit13 Who: Professional CrossFit athlete who won the 2015 Games, considered ‘the fittest man on earth’ Followers: 170k Name: Mathew Fraser Handle: @mathewfras Who: And in second place… not really, though, as his fitness levels trump ours. Fraser came second in the 2015 Games.

Followers: 234k Name: Dylan Werner Handle: @dylan werneryoga Who: LA-based yogi with core strength like it’s nobody’s business.

Followers: 273K Name: Alex Honnold Handle: @alexhonnold Who: Fan of the great outdoors? Honnold documents his biggest ascents (no pun intended) being one of the world’s foremost free-solo

mountain and rock climbers. His pictures will take your breath away (both the heights he scales and the natural surroundings).

Followers: 294k Name: Kenneth Gallarzo Handle: @progressive_ calisthenics Who: Give Gallarzo a Google and prepare to be wowed by his extreme body strength.

Followers: 459K Name: Simeon Panda Handle: @simeonpanda Who: Owner of SP Aesthetics Sportswear in the US and a serious body builder, Panda uses Instagram to really show off his muscles.

Followers: 2 million Name: The Rock (Dwayne Johnson) Handle: @therock Who: You may know him as an actor, but a career as a professional wrestler has given The Rock his rockin’ abs and a scores of followers.

Followers: 44 million

READY, SET, STYLE

1

GET READY FOR YOUR POST-GYMMING POSE WITH OUR QUICKAND-EASY PRODUCTS THAT TAKE RECORD TIME TO USE

2

1. Make the most of your postworkout shower by using a doublewhammy shampoo and conditioning product like Mitch Double Hitter Shampoo & Conditioner, R285 for 250ml

2. Aesop Purifying Facial Exfoliator Paste, R690, includes fine quartz, rosemary leaf and lactic acid, which gently buff away dead, oily skin cells.

3 4 5 3. Aesop Sage & Zinc Hydrating Cream SPF15, R520, lightweight but heavy duty.

This protects from sun with its zinc oxide (mineral) filters, which don’t clog pores.

A winner for sensitive skins!

4. Elemis SOS Survival Cream, R1 030 for 50ml, has some tricks up its sleeve, including lavender and myrrh to soothe sensitive skin. Apply a thin layer to beat dryness and irritation.

5. Bleu de Chanel Deodorant Stick, R465, allows you to have the same fresh and invigorating scent as the EDP, plus sweat protection, too.

Autumn/Winter 2016

THE EDIT 35

PROFILE

The Little Black Jacket by Karl Lagerfeld and Carine Roitfeld Carine Roitfeld collaborates with Karl Lagerfeld to produce a whimsical tribute to Chanel’s classic little black jacket, worn by friends and muses, including Claudia Schiffer, Zhou Xun, Kanye West, Yoko Ono and Anna Wintour.

Writers: Writers on the Art of Writing by Nancy Crompton The romantic in me remains a writer first, firmly. These portraits and pieces of writing from favourites such as James Baldwin, Toni Morrison, Norman Mailer and John Updike, share a wide array of insights and carefully crafted nuggets by wordsmiths who have influenced generations.

I READ

Siphiwe Mpye, founder of Random Window, shares a few of the coffee-table books he holds dear PRODUCTION Sharon

PHOTOGRAPHY

Becker Aubrey Jonsson/One League & Lydia Wessels

Vanity Fair: the Portraits: a Century of Iconic Images

by Graydon Carter and the editors of Vanity Fair Annie Leibovitz, elaborate sets, big budgets and fantasy coming alive on the page – that is what Vanity Fair grew to mean to enthusiasts around the world.

It is also about fantastic prose and fans will delight in Christopher Hitchens’s essays alongside works by other VF writers, including editor Carter.

36 THE EDIT Autumn/Winter 2016

Gucci: The Making of

by The Gucci Company

Everything but the Walls

by Jasper Morrison

The history of an iconic brand, from its dynastic beginnings, through the Tom Ford era, right into the now-defunct (at least at Gucci) Gianni di Marco tag team. With historical essays and rare, unexpected photographs, its collectability is palpable.

Morrison’s method, design philosophy and work are laid bare as he unpacks the backstories to some of his more prominent work, revealing narratives of coincidence, serendipitous collaboration and problem-solving.

100 Years of Menswear by Cally Blackman In the world of menswear, where yesterday is recalled and reinterpreted regularly, history plays an inalienable part. Cally Blackman examines the mitigating trends and circumstances driving shifts in menswear over a century, and along the way we meet the unlikely beginnings of trends and iconic players like the Duke of Windsor, David Bowie and Richard Roundtree.

SIPHIWE MPYE WEARS NAKED APE

WHAT I LIKE

Discover more.