Sunday Times | The Edit Spring/Summer '17

SEASON

s p r i n g / s u m m e r ’ 17

NEW THE EDIT N 07

N 07

Spring/Summer ’17

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76

CONTENTS tre nds and bloom

20.

6.

ED’S LETTER

14. T R E ND S

T REN DS spring romance

beauty: raw and refined

T RE N D S urban artillery

30. G ROO MI NG 33. A

8.

22. T REN DS

news

15.

couture

52. P H O T OG R A P H Y

beau t y

31. FRAG RAN CE

57. NO I R

44. T HE

WAVE baring it all

74.

24. T REN DS

game changers

margaret courtney-clarke

O F T HE SE A S O N technicolour overload

DRE SS, P RI C E ON RE Q UE ST, GAVI N RA JA H; NE C K L AC E , R1 9 9 9 ; B RAC E L E TS, FRO M R3 5 9 9 TO R4 2 9 9 , A LL A M E RI C A N SW I SS

FRAG RAN CE in bloom

spring daze

PL AC E I N T H E S U N embroidery revisited

10. T REN DS 16.

live by night

B EAUT Y news

sylvan prince

32. B O O KS

64. O LFACT O RY

AT E LIER Adri van Zyl

68. T HE 76.

18.

26. TRENDS

yatzer

red, white,

MAN must-haves

essentials redux

f a shi on

RED RO O M spring’s boldest hue

54. RET RO SPECT IV E

living

12. TRENDS

50. FEATURE

legendary authors

N O T ES alberto morillas

chanel

56. STOC K ISTS

66. C OLOURS

ART O F LIV IN G WEL L palma de mallorca

B O O KS betony vernon

E D I TOR I A L EDITOR Sharon Becker sharonb@tisoblackstar.co.za CREATIVE DIRECTOR Anna Lineveldt MANAGING EDITOR Matthew McClure SENIOR DESIGNER Thembekile Vokwana DESIGNER & PICTURE EDITOR Lydia Wessels CHIEF SUBEDITOR Theresa Mallinson BEAUTY EDITOR Nokubonga Thusi LIVING EDITOR Leana Schoeman FEATURES WRITER Nothemba Mkhondo FASHION EDITOR Khomotso Moloto FASHION ASSISTANT Sahil Harilal FASHION INTERN Christelle Crinall DESIGN INTERN Athi Conjwa EDITORIAL INTERN Paula Andropoulos FINAL EYE Karin Mosselson and Lynda Stephenson PUBLISHER Aspasia Karras GROUP GENERAL MANAGER: SALES AND MARKETING Reardon Sanderson MANAGING DIRECTOR Andrew Gill ADVERTISING BUSINESS MANAGER Yvonne Shaff shaffy@tisoblackstar.co.za 082 903 5641 ACCOUNT MANAGERS Faith Thomas (Johannesburg) faith@fashionedit.co.za, 082 852 8998; Samantha Pienaar (Western Cape) pienaars@tisoblackstar.co.za 082 889 0366; Gina van de Wall (Durban) vdwallg@tisoblackstar.co.za, 083 500 5325 ADVERTISING CO-ORDINATOR Jamie Kinnear PRINTING Paarl Media Gauteng PUBLISHERS Tiso Blackstar Group, 16 Empire Road (cnr of Empire and Hillside roads), Parktown, Johannesburg, 2193 © Copyright Tiso Blackstar Group. No portion of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without written consent of the publishers. The publishers are not responsible for unsolicited material. The Edit is published by Tiso Blackstar Group. The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of Tiso Blackstar Group.

All advertisements, advertorials, and promotions have been paid for, and therefore do not carry any endorsement by the publishers.

TRENDS

Florals emerged anew at the latest haute couture collections, with designers reimagining botanical prints with whimsical embroidery, kaleidoscopic colour, and bold colour contrasts

PHOTOGRAPHY JUDD VAN RENSBURG PRODUCTION NOKUBONGA THUSI

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Satin slide heels, Prada, R12 650

Available Exclusively At

Sandton City | Morningside Shopping Centre

trend COMPI LE D BY Khomotso M oloto

spring romance

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1. H E NR I E T T E B OT H A NE CKLACE , R 1 250, CONVOY 2. S H E E R F LOR AL DR E S S , R1 199, H&M 3. S LI P DR E S S , R 5 599, DI E S E L 4. GI ANNI CH I AR I NI S LI NG B AG, R 2 795, S P I T Z 5. S LI NG B AG, R 1 850, P R I NGLE OF S COT LAND 6. F R E NCH S OLE P UM P S , R 2 395, CLOT H & LAB E L 7. B LOCK H E E LS , R 799, CH AR LE S & KE I T H 8. W R AP M AXI S KI RT, R 899, COUNT R Y R OAD 9. LACE DR E S S , R 1 399, P OE T R Y 10. TASSEL HOBO BAG, R2 199, MAT & MAY 11. R AY-B AN S UNGLAS S E S , R 2 149, M AT & M AY 12. BELT, R299, MAT & MAY 13. B LOUS E , R 1 299, COUNT R Y R OAD

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PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES AND SUPPLIED

Dior’s couture collection fuses a neutral palette with festive hues and wistful, ethereal embroidery, reminiscent of a vintage year

trend COMPI LE D BY Khomotso M oloto

live by night

The latest Armani couture collection is a sensory feast. Prismatic embellishments and scintillating sheers create a trove of kaleidoscopic colour

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1. OF F-T H E -S H OULDE R TOP, R 90, M R P 2. OF F-T H E S H OULDE R DR E S S , R 1 399, W I TCH E R Y 3. B ONGANI NE CKLACE , R 790, M I LLE COLLI NE S 4. R E B E CCA B E LT, R 999, P R I NGLE OF S COT LAND 5. E AR R I NGS , R 699, M I M CO 6. CH AI NH ANDLE B AG, R 31 000, DOLCE & GAB B ANA 7. E M B E LLI S H E D H E E LS , R 18 800, GUCCI 8. T UR B AN, R 11 800, GUCCI 9. YACH T M AST E R , R 843 900, R OLE X 10. H E E LS , R 899, CH AR LE S & KE I T H 11. P LE AT E D S KI RT, R 899, H &M 12. T ULLE S KI RT, R 90, M R P 13. SLING BAG, PRICE ON REQUEST, PRADA

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PHOTOGRAPHY JESSICA SEGAL AND SUPPLIED

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trend COMPI LE D BY Khomotso M oloto

red, white, and bloom

Proenza Schouler’s debut couture collection doesn’t disappoint. Floral brocades, dramatic blooming prints, and soft-spoken accessories welcome in the spring 12

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PHOTOGRAPHY JESSICA SEGAL AND SUPPLIED

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1. B R ALE T T E , R 699, COUNT R Y R OAD 2. S H ORT S , R 100, M R P 3. F LOR AL JACKE T, R 1 399, W I TCH E R Y 4. S ANDALS , R 779, CH AR LE S & KE I T H 5. E AR R I NGS , R 699, M I M CO 6. B AS KE T B AG, R 1 199, CH AR LE S & KE I T H 7. T R I O STAND NE CKLACE , R 799, M I M CO 8. ST UDDE D F LAT S , R 799, CH AR LE S & KE I T H 9. FLORAL BLOUSE, R599, POETRY 10. S CAR F, R 599, COUNT R Y R OAD 11. T R OUS E R S , R 1 600, P R I NGLE OF S COT LAND 12. B LAZ E R , R 2 600, P R I NGLE OF S COT LAND 13. P OI NT Y F LAT S , R 899, W I TCH E R Y

trend TE X T Nokubonga Thusi

raw and refined

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1. GLOM I NE R ALS COR R E CT I V E CAM OUF LAGE KI T, R 300 2. M AR K F ULL COV E R CR E AM CONCE ALE R , R 160 3. M AC ST UDI O CONCE AL AND COR R E CT PALE T T E M E DI UM DE E P, R 530 4. B OB B I B R OW N I NSTANT F ULL COV E R CONCE ALE R , R 510 5. DOLCE & GAB B ANA P E R F E CT M AT T E CONCE ALE R I N 2 CLAS S I C, R 590 6. LOV CONF I DE NT I AL CAM OUF LAGE CONCE ALE R PALE T T E , R 268 7. R E V LON COLOR STAY 2 I N 1 COM PACT M AKE UP AND CONCE ALE R I N TOAST, R 325 8. CLAR I NS I NSTANT CONCE ALE R R 325

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PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES AND SUPPLIED

Spring calls for a seemingly unpolished face: an embrace of texture and slight imperfection, executed with perfect precision

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fragrance

PR ODUCTI ON Nokubonga Thusi

PH OTOGR APH Y Judd van Rensburg

Whether mimicking the effervescence of a fruity cocktail or a walk through a blossoming garden, it doesn’t get more sensual than these floral scents

in bloom

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MY BURBERRY B L U S H E D P, 90ML, R1 695

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LA PERLA LA M I A P E R L A E D P, 100ML, R1 650

GIORGIO ARMANI S K Y D I G I O I A E D P, 50ML, R1 185

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CO A C H E DT, 90ML, R1 295

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GUCCI BLOOM E D P, 5 0 M L , R1 335

beauty

FIRST NAME, GABRIELLE

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BLUE CRUSH Blue has become the “denim” of makeup colours for its unshakable versatility season after season. We love it worn on lashlines, lids, and lips, as seen on the runways of Marques Almeida and Chromat.

Whether it’s cyan, navy, or cobalt blue that tickles your fancy, MAC allows you to experiment with the Rockin Rebel’ eye palette, a selection of marine and neutral shades and Dazzle Glass in Comet Blue for a glittery, glossy, violet-blue veil over lips.

MAC Dazzle Glass in Comet Blue, R270; MAC Girls Rockin’ Rebel Palette, R750

A KENZO WORLD The synchronisation of Kenzo’s fashion and fragrances is evident in its latest fragrance, Kenzo World, and we couldn’t have asked for a better marriage.

The eye-shaped bottle, which takes its cue from the house’s signature motif, holds a vibrant, disruptive fragrance that steps away from the traditional Kenzo Flower scent. Kenzo World EDP, 50ml, R1 320

NORDIC SUMMER The new season always seems to inspire a wardrobe overhaul − right down to your nail-gel colour.

The OPI Iceland nail collection is a colourful ode to the ice-capped Nordic country, available in nail lacquer and gel formulations.

Quirky names, such as I’ll Have a Gin and Tectonic and Suzi and the Arctic Fox accompany the array of rich colours, from royal-blue black to salmon peach.

OPI Iceland Collection Infinite Shine Nail Lacquers, R252

Gabrielle Chanel, the biggest fragrance launch by the Parisian fashion house in 15 years, was well worth the wait.

The bottle is the embodiment of luxury, from the lamé-embossed lid to the almost paper-thin, square glass. The scent is captivating, with floral heart notes of jasmine, ylangylang, orange blossom, and tuberose, and a warm, woody base of sandalwood and musk.

Gabrielle Chanel EDP, 100ml, R2 465

T H E O N E , T H E O N LY Dolce & Gabbana The One has finally arrived.

This eau de toilette, housed in a slender, golden bottle, is lighter than its previous versions, with notes of Italian bergamot, litchi, and white peach magnifying the heart of madonna lily. Dolce & Gabbana The One EDT, 100ml, R1 600

PHOTOGRAPHY MAC COSMETICS AND SUPPLIED

MARQUE S AL ME I DA

The message this season is unmistakably bold, rebellious, and one-of-a kind

Beauty News

TE X T Nokubonga Thusi

Sandton, Eastgate, Cresta, Clearwater, Mall Of Africa, Menlyn, Gateway Pavilion, Ballito Junction, V&A, Tygervalley, Cavendish, Canal Walk Tel no: 011 911 1200, www.swatch.com

TRENDS

This season, menswear classics are given an urban, contemporary twist, infused with dynamic prints and explosions of bold colour

Wallet, R12 550; grey robot, R3 700; Edward robot key ring, R5 300, all Prada

PHOTOGRAPHY JUDD VAN RENSBURG PRODUCTION NOKUBONGA THUSI

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trend COMPI LE D BY Sahi l Hari lal

urban artillery

Revel in an explosion of colour, dynamic prints, and contemporary camo in the spirit of MSGM’s upbeat sense of fun

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1. KNI T TOP, R 529, H &M 2. W I NDB R E AKE R , R 1 999, P UM A X NAT UR AL 3. B ACKPACK, R 1 799, M AT & MAY 4. WATCH , R780, SWATCH 5. SNEAKERS, R 2 999, DI E S E L 6. CAR GO CAM O JOGGE R S , R 899, COUNT R Y R OAD 7. LI NE 8 S H I RT, R 1 499, LE V I ’S 8. B AG, R 37 600, GUCCI 9. VOGUE S UNGLAS S E S , R 1 590, S UNGLAS S H UT 10. CAP, R 800, H E R S CH E L S UP P LY CO. 11. S W E AT E R , R2 190, GANT 12. SNEAKERS, P R I CE ON R E QUE ST, P R ADA

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PHOTOGRAPHY JESSICA SEGAL AND SUPPLIED

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Sandton Eastgate Mall of Africa Menlyn Gateway V&A Canal Walk

trend COMPI LE D BY Sahi l Hari lal

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1. B AG, P R I CE ON R E QUE ST, GUCCI 2. R AY-B AN SPECTACLES R1 999, SUNGLASS HUT 3. S UI T JACKE T, R 2 499, COUNT R Y R OAD 4.S H I RT, R 1 990, GANT 5. LE AT H E R B E LT, R 349, M AT & M AY 6. WATCH , R 1 100, S WATCH 7. OAKR I DGE CH I NOS , R 160, M R P 8. S H OE S , R 14 000, DOLCE & GAB B ANA 9. GOLF S H I RT, R 1 290, GANT 10. S W E AT S H I RT, R 2 190, GANT 11. TRACK PANTS, R1 999, LE COQ SPORTIF 12. T R E NCH COAT, R 2 299, COUNT R Y R OAD 13. S ANDALS , R 2 890, CLAR KS

PHOTOGRAPHY JESSICA SEGAL AND SUPPLIED

AMI reimagines the classics: think well-loved essentials spruced up with flashes of neon and urban trimmings

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sylvan prince

Florals get a masculine makeover in Dries Van Noten’s spring/summer ’17 collection, with dense botanical prints and pale leathers in a variety of textures

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1. S H ORT S , R 999, P R I NGLE OF S COT LAND 2. S H I RT, R 1 699, DI E S E L 3. S H I RT, R 379, H &M 4. R AY-B AN S UNGLAS S E S , R 2 999, M AT & M AY 5. P ORT E -DOCUM E NT S VOYAGE B AG, R 26 800, LOUI S V UI T TON 6. BACKPACK, R1 779, HERSCHEL SUPPLY CO. 7. B LACK B AY B R ONZ E WATCH , R 56 740, T UDOR 8. B LAZ E R , R 3 995, KURT GE I GE R 9. S H ORT S , R 649, T R E NE R Y 10. S I M ON & M AR Y H AT, R 599, T R E AD + M I LLE R 11. S H OE S , P R I CE ON R E QUE ST, P R ADA

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PHOTOGRAPHY JESSICA SEGAL AND SUPPLIED

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advertorial This season, Diesel celebra tes imperfection

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he spirit of American grunge rock is revived for the Diesel Fall/Winter 2017 campaign. Artistic director Nicola Formichetti has drawn inspiration from the unexpected: think a rock concert in the middle of a dark forest. Plaid, knits, and sheer fabrics are combined with intricate lace, leather, and washed denim in a throwback to the ’90s alternative music scene. Badges and patches from the Diesel fashion archives are reworked onto parkas and bombers.

Who needs perfection? #gowiththeflaw Embrace the flaws that make you unique.

Diesel once again leads the charge against conformity with the #gowiththeflaw range of fashion for men and women.

Rage against the trend and fight the flow of misleading social media that convinces us that we need to be perfect to be happy.

None of us are made the same, and our individuality is what makes us strong.

Take to social media and share the flaws that make you who you are. Tag @diesel and @gowiththeflaw, and let’s get the hashtag #gowiththeflaw trending!

SKB sneaker rang e

Sneakerheads rejoice: the new range of Diesel SKB sneakers has arrived. They’re durable, breathable, and lightweight enough for everyday wear, and are made from f lexible camoknit fabric, allowing you to slip them on and off with ease. The sneakers are available in a wide range of trendy colours and designs, and there is even a range specifically for denim devotees. The SKB in JoggJeans looks exactly like a classic denim wash, but feels like your most comfortable pair of sweatpants.

The #gowiththeflaw manifesto

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Go with NO plan Go with not sure Go with what makes you feel insecure

Go with the snooze Go with your hair Go with that face that needs no repair

Go with mistakes Go with remakes Go without knowing if you have what it takes

Go with the tease Go with the game Go if no one remembers your name

Go with the oops Go with no doubts Go with if it doesn’t look as good as it sounds

Go with the hunch Go with oh fuck.

Go like you’ll never run out of luck

Go with the swipe Go with the fling Go without wanting to put on a ring

Go out in the open Go with pride Grab a front seat and enjoy the ride

trend COMPI LE D BY Sahi l Hari lal

essential redux 26

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1. DAV I D JONE S T I E , R 150, W OOLW ORT H S 2. S H I RT, R 1 199, COUNT R Y R OAD 3. KE E PALL B ANDOULI E R E B AG, R 26 400, LOUI S VUITTON 4. RT DENIM JEANS, R 180, M R P 5. S H OE S , R 1 599, GR E E N CR OS S 6.

B OM B E R JACKE T, R2 199, DIESEL 7.SHORTS, R 999, P R I NGLE OF S COT LAND 8. TOM F OR D S UNGLAS S E S , F R OM R 6 800, S DM E YE W E AR 9. KNI T TOP, R 2 199, DI E S E L 10. CHAMBRAY SHIRT, R649, COUNTRY ROAD 11. S NE AKE R S , R 1 299, P E OP LE F OOT W E AR 12. T-SHIRT, R50, MRP 13. B ACK PACK, R 1 999, H E R S CH E L S UP P LY CO. 14. H E R I TAGE CH R ONO B LUE , R 62 690, T UDOR

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PHOTOGRAPHY JESSICA SEGAL AND SUPPLIED

E.Tautz reinvents the essentials by fusing crisp, tailored lines with urban, easygoing silhouettes in an understated palette of burgundy, denim, and stonewashed linen

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Cu rat ed t o ta k e you pl a c e s .

B A G / G E N U I N E L E AT H E R H O L D A L L R 3 9 9 9 G E N T S W AT C H / T E M P O R 1 0 9 9 ACCESORIES / PEARL STUDS R399 ACCESORIES / PEAR NECKLACE R799 A C C E S O R I E S / L E AT H E R W A L L E T R 7 9 9 A C C E S O R I E S / L E AT H E R B E LT R 3 4 9

• CAPE: Canal Walk / Somerset Mall / Garden Route Mall, George • GAUTENG: JHB: Rosebank / Clearwaters / The Glen • PTA: Menlyn / Kollonade / Centurion / Lynwood / Wonderpark / Forest Hill / Cradlestone Mall, Krugersdorp / Waterfall Mall, Rustenburg / I’Langa Mall, Nelspruit • KZN: The Board Walk, Richards Bay / The Galleria, Amanzimtoti / Gateway Kiosk, Umhlanga Rocks / Pavilion Centre, Westville • FREE STATE: Diamond Pavilion, Kimberley / Mimosa Mall, Bloemfontein Available at selected stores only. While stocks last.

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maxi dress R139.99 bell sleeve tee R119.99 off the shoulder top R159.99 tie front short R119.99

Product available in select stores and online at mrp.com from 23 October, while stocks last.

grooming

SMELL LIKE A LOCAL

30 polish up your skin game Whether you’re very dry or slightly on the oily side, the order of the day is injecting hydration into the skin post-winter with these three tips

1 . F I R S T S T E P, P R E P

2. SHINE FREE

3. SUPER MOISTURE

Before moisturising, prep skin by reinforcing its protective barrier and balancing excess oiliness. This spray acts like blotting paper to absorb excess oil, while adding moisture. Use: La Roche-Posay Serozinc, 150ml, R150

If you have oily skin, or want a shine-free finish, use a moisturiser with ingredients such as clay or charcoal to leave skin matte without compromising hydration. Use: Glamglow Volcasmic Matte Glow Moisturiser, 50ml, R790

Maximise hydration with a moisture-rich balm to quench the skin and prevent irritation.

Toning, protecting from pollution, and slowing facial-hair regrowth: this balm does it all. Use: Clarins Men Super Moisture Balm, 50ml, R395

the summer fragrances round-up

This scent, which carries a unique middle note of South Africa’s maninka fruit, will definitely garner you some attention (yes, it has ours). As this spicy fragrance settles in the heat of summer, it can only be described as “addictive”, with a powerful combination of ginger, cardamom, leather, and vanilla. Hugo Boss The Scent Intense EDP, 50ml, R1 100

SMELL LIKE A MAN We are all for this aromatic, masculine fragrance that is as light and crisp as its transparent blue bottle.

Notes of violet leaves, lemon, white musk, and a hint of coffee at the heart will have you misting this fragrance staple all summer long.

Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo Casual Life EDT, 100ml, R1380

SMELL LIKE A SAILOR Transport yourself to the coast with this marine-inspired scent, which is the ultimate catch as far as summer fragrances go. It leaves your skin with the faint aroma of salty ocean spray, with notes of bergamot, basil, lavender, cedarwood, and pistachio tree resin.

John Varvatos Artisan Blu EDT, 75ml, R1 195

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES AND SUPPLIED

MI SSON I

Grooming News

Start the season with healthy skin and noteworthy fragrances

TE X T Nokubonga Thusi

fragrance

PR ODUCTI ON Nokubonga Thusi

PH OTOGR APH Y Judd van Rensburg

The new season is here and it’s time to change the game.

The latest fresh fragrances are laced with a woody, oriental quality, and embody a mystery that would win anyone over

game changers 1

YSL LA NUIT DE L’ H O M M E E A U ELECTRIQUE E DT, 1 0 0 M L , R1 177

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C A LV I N K L E I N C K A L L E DT, 100ML, R875

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L’ H O M M E P R A D A I N T E N S E E D P, 100ML, R1 570

ROBERTO CAVALLI U O M O E DT, 6 0 M L , R965

COACH FOR M E N E DT, 100ML, R995

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books

TE X T Rober ta Thatcher

PORTR AI T BY Yi orgos Kaplani di s

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leaders and there are only 999 copies available for purchase. “It’s a lifestyle magazine, and, as the title hints, it’s about people who influence us in all aspects of life and design, from art to architecture and everything in-between,” he says.

For Voyatzis, entering the world of print in a digital era is less intimidating than one would imagine. “The bottom line is that print and digital are two different things, and both have a lot to offer by way of experiences for their readers,” he says. influencers.gr

Costas Voyatzis of Yatzer.com runs one of the most popular online destinations for aesthetes, but he still sees print publications as the heart of media. “I grew up with magazines and my love for them has never changed,” he says. “Print allows for the opportunity to portray things in a very different way from how they are portrayed on a screen.”

For Voyatzis, it’s the tactile element that keeps him coming back to print, and he appreciates the ritual of touching the paper and smelling the freshly printed pages. “I don’t believe that print is ever going to disappear; there will always be a need and a want for the written word, printed out to last,” he says.

So great is his love for print media, that Voyatzis recently made time in his busy schedule to become the creative director of a new Greek publication, called Influencers. The quarterly, limited-edition, hard-cover, 200-page magazine, features more than 300 photographs, and is one of the newest in a growing trend of premium, coffee-table magazines.

“The publication is unique in that it selects its audience,” Voyatzis says. The majority of each print run is sent to carefully selected opinion

coffee-table keepers

Trend forecaster Costas Voyatzis of Yatzer on why magazines are here to stay

COSTAS VOYATZIS’ TOP FIVE COFFEE-TABLE MAGAZINES

MACGUFFIN Ams ter da m

THE OUTPOST Be i r ut

Each issue is based on a single object, which is presented in the most unexpected way. macguffin.nl

PERDIZ MAGAZINE B a rc e l o n a

Honest content and an optimistic perspective on life in the Arab world. the-outpost.com

THE GOURMAND London

You will be reminded of the power of happiness while flipping through the pages. perdizmagazine.com

Filled with delicious pages that are so good you want to eat them. thegourmand.co.uk

MAGAZINE B S eo u l

Even though it focuses on one brand in each issue, it is an advertisement-free magazine. magazine-b.com

FASHION

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Burgeoning florals on sun-washed silhouettes and audacious crimson hues make a refreshing statement on long, tropical days Dress, R30 750; bag, R18 050; all Prada; bracelets, worn throughout, from R3 599 to R4 299, all American Swiss

34 Embroidery lends an old-world whimsy to a range of garments this spring, with delicate detailing, tart sorbet hues, and sun-bleached pastels abounding

fashion

sun

PR ODUCTI ON Sharon Becker

PH OTOGR APH Y Steve Tanchel/ Red Hot Ops

a place in the

S LI P DR E S S , R 4 200; E M B R OI DE R E D DR E S S , R6 500, BOTH STEFAN IA MORL AN D; T R OUS E R S , R 1 600, P R I NGLE OF S COT LAND; SAN DAL S, R699, COUN TRY ROAD

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STU DIO W TO P, R4 9 9 , W OOLW ORT H S ; W R A P B LOU S E , PRICE ON RE Q UE ST, G AVI N R A JA H ; N E C K L AC E , R 1 9 9 9 , A MERIC A N SW I SS

D RE SS, P RI C E ON R E QU E ST, S P E R O V I L L I OT I ; NE C K L AC E , R1 99 9 , A M E R I C A N S W I S S

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TOP, R25 3 0 0 , TRO USE RS, R 1 4 6 0 0 , B OT H E R M A N N O S C E R V I N O AT C ATH E RYNE G A E YL A ; MI U M I U S U N G L A S S E S , R 4 3 9 0 , LU XOT TI CA; SLIDES , R1 1 9 9 , STE VE M A D D E N

DRESS, P RI C E O N RE Q UE ST, M A R I A N N E FA S S L E R ; H AT, R 9 9 9 , P R I NGLE OF S COTL A ND ; NE C K L AC E , R 1 9 9 9 , A M E R I C A N S W I S S

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T-S H I RT, R 4 000, S H EL IA MADGE; TROUSERS, R1 000, TOPSHOP; H AT, R90, MRP; SATCHEL , R449, MAT & MAY; SL IDES, R1 000, WITCHERY

B E A D E D TO P A N D T R OU S E R S , R 6 8 8 0 , Q UI TE RI A & G E OR G E

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43

S H I RT, R 1 625; TROUSERS, R1 375, BOTH CIN DY MFABE; NE CKLACE , R1 999, AMERICAN SWISS; VIDORRETA SHOES, R2 290, EUROPA ART SHOES

PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT THEMBA MOKASE HAIR SAADIQUE RYKLIEF/LAMPOST MAKEUP LIZ VAN DER MERWE/RED HOT OPS FASHION ASSISTANT SAHIL HARILAL MODEL BIANCA/ICE MODELS

fashion

PR ODUCTI ON Louw Kotz e

PH OTOGR APH Y Ross Garrett/ Lampost

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E R M A N N O S CE R V I NO B LOUS E , R 36 000; JACKE T, R 12 900; T R OUS E R S , R 6 800, B OT H PAUL & JOE , ALL CAT H E R YNE GAE YLA

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T H E

R E D

R O O M

Get lost in the dusky fusion of scorched scarlet and umbrous ruby hues with midnight accents, for an enigmatic take on spring colour

B UST I E R DR E S S , R 25 000, DOLCE & GAB B ANA

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DR E S S , R 33 900; S H OE S , R 16 800, B OT H GUCCI

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T R AC K TOP, R 22 300; T R ACK PANT S , R 10 100; R I NGS , R 5 200 E ACH , ALL GUCCI

PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT LESEDI MOTHOAGAE HAIR AND MAKEUP LESLEY WHITBY/ LAMPOST, USING MAC AND DR SCHRAMMEK FASHION ASSISTANT SAHIL HARILAL MODEL ANYON/FABULOUSDOTCOM PAINT PASSION RED SPONSORED BY PLASCON

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ER M ANNO S CE R V I NO DR E S S , R 25 600, CAT H E R YNE GAE YLA

PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT LESEDI MOTHOAGAE HAIR AND MAKEUP LESLEY WHITBY/ LAMPOST, USING MAC AND DR SCHRAMMEK FASHION ASSISTANT SAHIL HARILAL MODEL ANYON/FABULOUSDOTCOM PAINT PASSION RED SPONSORED BY PLASCON

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D R E S S , R 30 750; B AG, R 18 050; S H OE S , R 21 050, ALL P R ADA

haute couture TE X T Aspasi a Karras

C H A N E L’ S

50

WHIMSICAL

WONDERLAND

The house’s haute couture show, set in the gardens of the Grand Palais, is a dream come true

D

Do

you remember the scene in Charlie and the Chocolate Factory where crowds gather outside the gates of the factory to watch the lucky few with a golden ticket enter the magic portal to partake of the many wonders inside? This is the scene that greets me on the steps of the Grand Palais in Paris. It is always the most frenzied outside the Chanel Haute Couture show, because there is probably no greater show on earth.

Karl Lagerfeldt’s vision has something of the mad, over-thetop showmanship of Willy Wonka — and for those with a golden ticket, the magical spectacle will unfold like a peculiar, wonderful dream. When you find yourself in the thick of it, it all makes perfect sense: of course we are sitting under the Eiffel Tower in the Grand Palais; naturally the chairs are the same mossy-green chairs of all Parisian gardens. The light has the perfect morning dappled glow of a Parisian garden: gravel underfoot, birdsong in the air, the tower disappearing in bucolic clouds somewhere near the roof.

It takes your breath away — the clothes are almost incidental — and yet they are ostensibly what we came for. The colour palette is sombre greys and blacks. Think A-line skirts, coats, and wide-legged jumpsuits in classic Chanel tweed, topped with bowler-style hats, and tailed with transparent, low, block heels.

The clothes have the charm of a 19th century morning suit — ideal attire in which to take a stroll around this rarefied version of this Parisian icon, or to take a spot of tea, champagne, and macaroons up in the clouds — which is why the hat is so useful, the same little hat Coco Chanel had a fondness for wearing . The dream is iconic, whimsical, and over in heartbeat.

I emerge blinking into the sunlight. With all the other dreamers, I am awed by the marvellous chimera we experienced together, and the supreme magician who orchestrated it all.

“

It is always the most frenzied outside the Chanel Haute Couture show, because, the fact is, there is probably no greater show on earth

”

51 DOURIEAN FLETCHER: WHAT I’VE LEARNT IN HOLLYWOOD

“Afrofuturistic with a facet of fine art” is how Douriean Fletcher describes her jeweller y, which landed her the job as jeweller costumer for the much-anticipated Marvel film, Black Panther WOR DS Nothemba M khondo

H ow d id you get your sta r t in Hol lyw ood ? Th e first t ime my work was sho w n on a s creen was on a show ca l l e d TLC’s B e auty Masters. That was re l e a se d i n 2015. During t hat t ime I me t t he i n cred ible, hig hly-talented, a n d l e ge n d a ry c ostume desig ner, Rut h E Car t e r , w h o u s e d s o m e o f m y w o r k on t h e re - i m a g ined Roots mini-series.

Ca rt e r w a s l oo king for a very specific a e st he t i c for t he jewel lery for Black Pa nt he r, a nd sh e fel t t hat my aest het ic wa s a p e rfe ct fit, so she broug ht me on b o a rd . W hat is it l ike wor k ing in H o l l y w o o d ? I t ’s i n t e re s t i n g . I t ’s

a fun journey try i n g to f i gure o ut h o w and where I f i t i n t h e i n d us try . I’ m a young Afric a n -Ameri c a n w o ma n w h o i s doing somet h i n g t h a t h a s n ’t b een d o n e before, becaus e I a m a n a rt i s t: my w o rk is unique an d i t ’s h a n d ma d e. Th ere i s a need for somet h i n g mo re t h a n a b a s i c hoop or rin g o r c h a rm b ra c el et i n t h i s industry. Wh at do e s i t t ake t o ge t ah e ad a nd sta y a h e ad ? Ta l k i n g to s o me o f t h e women in t h e en terta i n men t i n d us try , it seems as i f t h e o n l y t h i n g t h ey a re focused on i s d o i n g t h ei r b es t w o rk a n d enjoying it w h i l e t h ey ’ re d o i n g i t. Th ey are tak ing s o met h i n g t h a t c h a l l en ges

t h ei r ta l en t a n d ri s i n g to t h e o c c a s i o n .

Te l l us abo ut y o ur w o r k f o r t h e B l ac k Pan t h e r f i l m . I w a s t h e s p ec i a l i ty j ewel l ery c o s tumer f o r B l a c k Pa n t h er. Th e exp eri en c e w a s mi n d -b l o w i n g. To b e p ut i n t h e p o s i t i o n w h ere I w a s s o l el y res p o n s i b l e f o r c rea t i n g p i ec es f o r s uc h a b i g mo v i e w a s a b s o l utel y a ma z i n g.

A f ew y ea rs a go, I us ed to d rea m a b o ut ma k i n g j ew el l ery f o r An gel a B a s s et. At t h e t i me I w a s s l eep i n g o n a f ri en d ’s c o uc h b ec a us e I w a s go i n g t h ro ugh my a rt i s t i c j o urn ey o f f i guri n g o ut w h ere my w o rk f i t i n t h e w o rl d , a n d I h a d h er o n my v i s i o n b o a rd . B e s t Ho l l y w o o d

m e m o ry ? D e f i ni t e l y D e na i G u r i ra , Da ni e l Ka l u u y a , a nd Lu p i t a N y ong ’o’s b i rt hd a y p a r t y e a r l i e r t hi s y e a r. The t h e m e w a s “ Com i ng t o A m e r i ca”, a nd I ha d su ch a f u n t i m e . We a l l d re sse d up a nd i t w a s t he b e st ni g ht . Wh a t have been your most important l e s s o n s s o f a r ? To g i v e 2 5 0 % t o t h e j ob. Tha t ca n b e t ra nsl a t e d i nt o: d o y ou r b e st — a nd t he n d o m ore t h an y ou r b e st . S t a y f ocu se d on y ou r w or k, m a i nt a i n y ou r re l a t i onshi p s w i t h p eop l e , a l w a y s re m e m b e r t o st a y t h ankf u l f or t hose w ho ha ve op e ne d d o o r s f or y ou , a nd ha ve f u n!

photography

TE X T Nothemba M khondo

PH OTOGR APH Y M argaret Cour tney - Clarke

Seeing Africa through an intimate lens

“I

need to know who I’m photographing, who she is, and everything about her life. I’m drawn into her, through my camera, through my lens, because I am obliged to come up close,” says Margaret Courtney-Clarke, the documentary photographer who is drawn to distant places to capture the lives, cultures, and art of Africa.

Courtney-Clarke’s photographs are about more than standing outside with a lens and looking in: they tell a story. It is in the way she engages with her subjects in a meaningful fashion; sitting around the fire and sharing stories, sharing food, sharing their homes and their lives. It’s not about the bigger picture; it’s about the intricacies of the lives and cultures and realities of the people. It’s about coming up close, using one camera, with a 35mm lens.

With a journey that has taken her from the desert of Namibia to homesteads in South Africa and villages south of Rome, Courtney-Clarke’s photographic expeditions are imbued with the quality of the passing winds. “I’ve trekked through Africa for most of my life, but I never know where I am going. I drive out of my garage and I don’t know

crazy times in fashion The Edit spoke to some of the big names in the local fashion

52 DAVID TLALE fashion designer @davidtlale The worst intern that I’ve ever had came in to intern for me for about three weeks, and I needed him to cut out fabric leaves for one skirt that I was showing at Paris Fashion Week. As I’m doing this collection he’s taking pictures and everything else, as people do these days.

Off I go to Paris Fashion Week, and a few weeks after my return home, I’m on the judging panel for the Durban July competition, and guess who enters? He repeated one of the styles that I showcased at Paris Fashion Week and boom! Little did he know that I’d be one of the judges.

I was like, actually he must be disqualified before he can say anything because the colour, the silhouette, the style, the whole design was mine! And he interned with me for three weeks... what a coincidence? Goodbye!

JAN MALAN event planner, director, producer @janmalan

What I love about David Tlale is he always comes up with something utterly unusual. For Fashion Week Johannesburg 2011, we used iconic spaces throughout the city.

David said: “I will only do it if I have Nelson Mandela Bridge!” David wanted 92 models, to match Mandela’s age that year. Backstage we had every celebrity in the book, David was still looking for models, the show was due to start at about 10pm and people were so excited that they came early — but we simply weren’t ready.

David refused to carry on until we had 92 models. In the meantime, people at the bridge were wondering what was going on. I was the one who had to make announcements: it was the most nerve-wracking situation. We did get it together, but it was well after midnight, and it was the biggest scandal. A lot of things went wrong during the show, but it was a success. The fact that it was so late glamourised it somehow. It’s become one of the most iconic things that’s been done locally in fashion.

KELLY FUNG fashion director at Superbalist @x_kellyfung_x

I was working at a well-known magazine, but there wasn’t a team do to anything: it was me, myself, and I covering beauty and fashion. On this particular day, I had to go to six events, across Johannesburg and Cape Town. None could be cancelled: one was judging the magazine’s beauty awards; another event was put on by one of our biggest advertisers; and I also was shooting in Cape Town. I think I flew between Cape Town and Johannesburg three times in one day. I started in Joburg, flew to Cape Town for an event, flew back for the beauty awards and this big client’s event, then flew back to Cape Town for the shoot, and flew back to Joburg that night. I had to fly back to Cape Town the next morning.

I had shoes in a bag to change outfits between events: I ran through the airport in sneakers, then put on heels, then put my sneakers back on, then another pair of heels, so I had another outfit. It was crazy. I never want to repeat that.

in

n

PORTRAIT NICOLA BRANDT

if I’m going to turn left or right. The only thing for me is to go as far as possible away from the city,” she says.

In a personal quest to reconnect with her roots, Courtney-Clarke returned to Namibia in 2009 after a life spent overseas. With this relocation, came her latest book, Cry Sadness into the Coming Rain, in which she turns her lens to the desolate and harsh landscapes of her home country. This new chapter in Courtney-Clarke’s photography captures a drought-ravaged land in crisis, and explores the dichotomy of the suffering and hope of the Namibian people.

“In my own suffering, going out and meeting people who likewise are suffering, gave me a lot of courage and inspiration. I didn’t know when I set out that there would be a four-year drought. I have not seen rain for four years in this country. So that is the title of my book; it’s sadness and the rain that never comes,” Courtney-Clarke says.

Courtney-Clarke’s defining body of work turned her gaze to what she refers to as “the strength of Africa” — African women. With her trilogy, Ndebele (1986), African Canvas (1991) and Imazighen (1996), she documented the lives and vernacular art of women across African cultures. “They are not only the child-bearers and the home keepers, but they beautify their space, and they are the power behind the cultures in many societies across Africa,” she says.

When you look at Courtney-Clarke’s vivid photography, you can see the vision of an artist. Her images echo the essence of traditional African life and her portraits capture the complex character of resilient African people.

“That’s what we do as photographers: you record the time and the moment, independently of where you are or where it’s taking you,” Courtney-Clarke says.

Margaret Courtney-Clarke’s precisely framed, vivid portraits capture the intricacies of raw human emotion and tradition

industr y to find out what goes down behind the scenes

53

COMPI LE D BY Sheena Bagshawe

DEON REDMAN director and producer @deonredman

I was producing for a very well-known designer as part of London Fashion Week some years ago. The show was held in an old church in Maida Vale, with the backstage area in the original old crypt below the church accessed by a narrow, steep, stone staircase that twisted and turned to get to the runway. After the show, the usual fashion uber-elite descended to the backstage area for the postshow congratulations. At the same time, I was hurrying up the stairs to get to the front of house. As I did, I turned a sharp corner, and ran directly into Isabella Blow on her way down. Her architectural “skirt” chose exactly that moment to disengage, bringing my head directly in line and within centimetres of all her glory. She was covered only by the hosiery she was wearing underneath, sans underwear.

My blushing apology was met with a sigh and a delightfully indifferent “Oh dear” from her, and as I helped to retrieve the ball of folded fabric from the floor, an eminent British fashion journalist commented equally indifferently: “Oh do put it away, Issie. Stop torturing the children.”

TOMMIE FOURIE model @tommiefourie

I had a direct booking for a shoot in China. Most people think being a model is easy, but this shoot definitely pushed me to my limits. I knew the shoot was a campaign for a bag brand, but I had no idea that they would expect me to pose with hundreds of bags that all looked exactly the same to me. Also, I had to pose with every single bag like I was in love with it. It all started out okay until they wanted a fog-like effect in the shots. So, they actually started a fire behind me to get smoke in the shots. Basically I was suffocating, but I had to act really chuffed posing with these bags. Every single time the stylist passed me another bag to pose with I felt like screaming! As if this weren’t enough, a huge van pulled up in front of the studio, filled with even more bags: a tonne of backpacks. The translator told me that I would be posing with all of those backpacks too. Instantly my mind was like: “Hell no!”

I told the translator I was going to the bathroom, but I never came back. I just couldn’t deal. I don’t care how much you pay me: I’m not a robot.

JENNY ANDREW fashion stylist @jennyinjozi

I was working on a shoot for an international cosmetics house, and the British advertising agency wanted everything to turn out perfectly. Our male model had been shooting in The Gambia and took a connecting flight via the Balkans to Johannesburg. But he just didn’t arrive. Eventually, we received a phone call from him. He’d been arrested and beaten up in jail. My first question was: “How badly are you bruised and where?”

Because he was meant to be bare-chested and wearing very little. He was fine, but his arrival was delayed by a couple of days. In the meantime, we had to duck and dive with our schedule, and while that was happening, the art director from the British agency kept threatening to commit suicide. So we got hold of a doctor and told the art director that he really needed a vitamin injection — because conditions in Africa were tough — and the doctor gave him a tranquiliser. The things you have to do other than organising clothes and props!

T H E PRI NT CO L L E CTO R/A L A M Y

fashion retrospective TE X T Terr y Newman

LEGENDARY AUTHORS and the clothes they wore

This fabulous new book looks beyond writers’ words, and illustrates how fashion can be an integral part of creative expression

“Angelou’s sense of self always manifested in her wardrobe, and that wardrobe was always elegant. She forever looked together.”

O S CA R W I LD E I ri s h w ri t e r E V E RE TT CO LL E CTIO N HI STO R ICA L/ A LA M Y

“Heedlessly and hedonistically, Wilde embraced life.

He was smart, and for a time there was equilibrium when the planet understood him — velvet cape, breeches, sunflowers, silk stockings, and all.”

J OAN D I D I ON Am er i c a n a u t h o r “Casually cool sartorial savoir faire has always been Didion’s byline. Her writing is infused with descriptive analyses of clothing as cultural consideration, and as the years rolled by, her essays have become templates of generational sensibilities.”

PIC TORI A L PRE S S /A LA MY

54

“By age seventeen, he was well on his way to looking the part of the genuine vagabond poet he aspired to be. Wearing a scrawny tatter of a bow tie, he had become a serial runaway and spent time in a prison in Paris for fare dodging and homelessness.”

G E T T Y I M AG E S/ T H E WA S H I NGTO N P O ST

A RTH U R R I MB AUD Fre n ch poe t

MAYA A N G E LO U A m e ri ca n p o e t

I N TE RFOTO/ AL AMY

PI CTORI AL PRE SS/ AL AMY PI CTORI AL PRE SS/ AL AMY

COL E T T E Fren c h n o vel i st

SUSAN SONTAG Am er i c a n t h e o ri s t

“Joyce’s clothes reveal an accidental narrative of the great writer. He suffered from iritis and glaucoma, and in order to relieve his eyes he wore a patch; in later years he began wearing a white suit that he believed helped reflect the words on the page in front of him when he wrote.”

“For her, clothes were intrinsic to feeding and salving the psyche; they were dressing-up indulgences and a suggestion of the personality within. She used them to radiate character, both in her own life and in the lives of the characters she created in her writing.”

“Her trademark was the streak of white running through her dark hair.

Defying society as ever, Sontag grew more seductive with age. Rather than mask the greys, she made them a classic feature.”

DJ UNA BAR NE S Am er i c a n wr i ter

“Wolfe’s genteel day-to-evening wear of a three-piece cool suit is the presumption of a man who always dresses with a classic twist and gently echoes the tradition and spirit of his hometown, Richmond, Virginia.”

“Barnes was openly laughed at by children who stared at amazement at her striding around in her trademark black cape. Capes at the time were regularly featured in Vogue and a standard for fashionable women. However, it was the way Barnes wore them that counted: overtly masculine and with a flourish of poise and charisma — often topped off with an Alpine hat, trimmed with ribbon.”

E VE R E TT COL L ECTI ON HISTO R ICA L/ AL A MY

TO M WO L F E American writer and journalist

PI CTOR I A L PRE SS/ A L A M Y

JA M ES JOYCE I ris h n ov e l ist

FR OM THE BOOK: LEGENDAR Y AUTHOR S AND THE CLOTHES THEY WOR E BY TE RRY N E WM A N .

R EP R INTED COURTESY OF HAR P ER DESIGN, AN IMP R INT OF HAR P ER COLLIN S P U B L IS H E RS AVAILABLE AT ALL LEADING BOOK R ETAILER S IN SOUTH AFR IC A . F RO M R480

55

STOCKISTS N 07

sp ri n g / sum m e r 2 017

FASH IO N American Swiss 021 938 1918 • Catheryne Gaeyla 011 447 2550 • C ind y M fa be c i n d y mf a b e91@ gmai l.c om • Ch ar le s & Kei th 021 93 7 4 6 8 6 • C larks c l ar k s s a. c o . za • C l o t h & L a b el 011 883 3215/ 011 326 5702 • C o nvoy 073 465 9806 • Co unt r y Road Woolwor ths.co.za • Diesel 011 783 0882 • Dolce & Gabbana 011 326 7808 • Europa Ar t Shoes 011 883 5354 • Gant 086 1000 42 1 • Gavi n Raj ah 0 2 1 4 2 4 7 8 4 2 • G r een C r o s s 087 287 8041 • G ucc i 011 326 7928 • H ers c he l Supply Co .

011 444 227 0 • H& M hm . c o m / z a • Ku r t Geiger 086 0434 437 • L e C o q S p o r t if l ec o qs p o r t i f. c o . z a L ev i’s 011 784 9187 • Lo ui s Vui t ton 011 7 8 4 9 8 5 4 • L u xo t ti c a 0 2 1 4 8 6 6100 • M a r ia nne Fa s s l er 011 646 8387 • M a t & M ay ma t a n dmay.c o.za • M i lle Co lli ne s m illecollines . e s • Mi m c o wo o l wo r t hs . c o . z a • M R P mrp . c o m • Peo p l e Fo o t wea r 011 444 2270 • Po et r y p o e tr y s tore s .c o.za • Pr ada 011 326 751 7 • Pri n g le o f S c o tlan d 0 1 1 4 44 2270 • Pum a 021 422 0591/ 011 403 3096 • Q uit er ia & Ge o r g e q u i te ri aandge orge . co.za • Rolex r o l ex . c o m • S D M Eyewe ar 0 11 334 7020 • S h eil a M a dge s h ei l a ma d g e. c o m • S p er o V il l io t i 011 325 6088 • S p i t z s p i t z . c o . z a • S t e f a n i a M o r l a n d 0 2 1 4 2 2 2 6 0 9 • S t eve M a d d e n s t e v e m a d d e n . c o . z a • S u n g l a s s H u t 0 1 1 8 8 3 6 6 0 6 • The Swatc h Gro u p 0 1 1 9 1 1 1 2 0 0 • To p sh o p 011 685 7070 • Tr ea d + M il l er t rea d a n d mi l l er. c o . z a • Tr ene r y Woolwor ths .c o.za • Tudor tud or watc h. c o m • W i tc h e r y wo o l wo r th s . c o . z a • Wo o l wo r t h s wo o l wo r t h s . c o . z a

*Prices and availability were checked at the time of going to press. Sunday Times The Edit cannot guarantee that prices will not change or that items will be in stock at the time of publication.

BEAUTY

This season has us sporting glistening summer skin perfect for the beach. We decode the new, bold colours, and seduce our senses with a master perfumer

57

beauty

N O I R PH OTOGR APH Y M i sha Tay lor

PR ODUCTI ON Louw Kotz e

Naked facial features and glistening skin: this season’s look is about baring it all, from head to toe

TE X T Nokubonga Thusi

58

WA V E

59

“

Use a non-invasive contouring solution such as BTL Exilis to get rid of stubborn pockets of fat around the stomach and hip areas. It uses radio frequency and ultrasound to penetrate the deeper layers of the skin and melt fat at 40°C. The excess fat is then removed via the lymphatic system.

”

60

“

A daub of cream highlighter on the collar bones and shoulders is the perfect way to accentuate those features you want to show off. Raise the shoulders and arch forward to reveal the high planes of your décolleté before applying.

”

“

Elevate your moisturising routine by applying shimmering dry oil, instead of a body lotion, to your limbs. It provides non-greasy, hydrating coverage, and a sprinkling of reflective flecks to add depth to the skin’s surface.

”

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“

It ’s time to get protective — sunscreen shouldn’t stop at your face, as your body needs just as much protection to maintain a healthy skin. Look for a broadspectrum, tinted sunscreen that protects your skin from UVA and UVB rays.

62

”

PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT JONATHON TAYLOR MAKEUP NANDI KAI/SUPERNOVA MODEL CARMEN/MAX MODELS

“

Skip the hours of basking in the sun and use a gradual selftanning lotion to give skin that sun-kissed appearance. Tense muscles before applying any self-tan to help give the skin, especially on the legs, a more contoured shape.

”

63

olfactory notes TE X T Paula Andropoulos

64

M E E T

T H E

N O S E

The world-renowned perfumer’s creation, Goldea, The Roman Night, is the latest in a long line of iconic perfumes created by this master of his craft

P

erfumes and scents have always been a quintessential aspect of high fashion, and an important marker of personal identity.

Fragrance is an indispensable sensory ornament, and nobody understands this better than professional perfumer Alberto Morillas.

The man behind a bevy of iconic perfumes, including Calvin Klein’s CK One, and Bulgari’s Omnia, was born in Seville in 1950. He is widely known within sartorial circles as one of living luminaries of a somewhat mysterious creative elite. The ancient Egyptians wore pungent perfumes as a symbol of elevated status; the Romans used to douse their feet in oily colognes. Today, the expert perfumer — le nez, the nose — straddles the divide between art and science, relying in equal measure on chemistry and intuition to concoct the perfumes and the colognes we know and love.

Morillas studied at the School of Beaux Arts in Geneva, but claims to be predominantly self-taught in the field of scent-making. He was fascinated by the fact that, behind every perfume, is the masterful hand of a single creator.

He began his career making scented candles by hand, before going on to become one of the greatest professional noses of his generation. Morillas’ talent has been solicited by the likes of Cartier, Marc Jacobs, Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, and Givenchy. He is a special favourite of Bulgari, which in 2017, released his highly anticipated creation — Goldea, The Roman Night — an olfactory love letter to the romance and splendour of the Italian capital.

Kristi Pärn-Valdoja, the editor of Estonian Säde magazine, has enjoyed a long acquaintance with Morillas, having met him at several international perfume launches over the years. She has always been fascinated by the curious role of the perfume nose, but holds Morillas in especially high esteem, as do his professional counterparts. “Francis Kurkdjian, one of the most talented noses of our time, said to me that the only perfumer he admires is Alberto Morillas, because his creations are always very inventive, and because he is such a nice guy,” Pärn-Valdoja says.

Indeed, beyond his prowess within the world of perfumery, Morillas’ reputation is a testament to his modesty and his kindness. Pärn-Valdoja herself characterises Morillas as, “an extremely warm person who likes to laugh and travel. He always looks like a gentleman, is very polite, and very talkative. Some noses are great at creating a perfume, but not so great at talking about them, but Alberto is always eager to explain his sources of inspiration.”

Morillas’ worst smell in the world is cooking onion; his signature, black musk. He grew up enamoured with the smells of traditional Christmas cakes and the Mediterranean Sea; he has always favoured citrus, jasmine, and neroli. Morillas still writes down all of his “ recipes” — or formulae — by hand because, he believes, “Writing a formula on a computer is a precise, but an unemotional experience. Handwriting my formulas ensures that the true expression of my idea is kept in a single page,” he says. “My handwriting is my emotion. When I write the formula, I can smell the perfume.”

Part of what makes Morillas exceptional is his unique — and no doubt indispensable — ability to translate intangible emotions, memories, and sensations into the aromatic personality of his perfumes. “You have this version, this story, of a new emotion. The first step is to start with the name,” he says.

Goldea, The Roman Night, is no exception. “You might buy Goldea in Los Angeles, but you need to feel the emotion of Rome in the perfume, because when you see the advertising, you see the beauty of the Roma,” he says. “I have tried to have the same emotion in the perfume.” Morillas describes his latest creation as

“a new style for Bulgari — it’s fresh, it’s mysterious, it’s very young, it’s luminous, but the luminosity of the night, it’s maybe a little bit dangerous. You know, when you wear this perfume, maybe you’ll have some surprises!”

Don’t be deceived by Morillas’ poetics, though. The professional nose’s craft is strenuous, and requires a thorough grasp of chemistry and some biology. Moreover, the nose has constantly to protect the instrument of their craft, and one’s sense of smell is more delicate than one might suppose. It is easy to imagine that a highly developed sense of smell might also be an inconvenient attribute in myriad modern environments.

Imagine sniffing out wet dogs, smouldering ash, or stagnant water with unbearable acuity.

Still, Morillas seems to love what he does, and has consistently been lauded as a master of his craft. He has won a clutch of awards in recognition of his creations, including the prestigious François-Coty prize for the best perfumer in 2003. “He has always said that his main inspiration comes from travelling,” Pärn-Voldoja recalls, musing on the source of his considerable success. “He has journeyed through much of the world — his favourite destination is India.”

Pärn-Valdoja regards Morillas as something of an exception as far as perfume noses go, insofar as his profession is not a family legacy. “For many of them, it is like a family tradition, especially for those who have been born in the South of France, in the so-called perfume capital of the world, Grasse,” Pärn-Valdoja says. “For example, Oliver Polge is the son of the legendary perfume maker Jacques Polge, who has done a lot of great Chanel perfumes; the younger Polge studied history, and wanted to become a pianist, before he decided to step into his father’s shoes, and now he is the perfumer at Chanel.”

The world of perfumery has also, historically, been dominated by men, so nose-enthusiasts such as Pärn-Valdoja are heartened to note that women are gradually infiltrating this industry, and with great success. “I am a huge fan of Christine Nigel, who is an exceptional woman and makes perfumes — one of her most famous creations is Dior J’Adore. There are also Amandine Clerc-Marie, who has worked for Chloé; Daniela Andrier, who works for Prada; Sophia Grojsman; and my personal favourite, Marie Salamagne, who made Sensai The Silk and Azzedine Alaïa’s perfume,” Pärn-Valdoja says. “And let’s not forget Germaine Cellier. She was one of the first female perfumers in the world, and her legendary fragrances Bandit and Fracas were once the favourite scents of Marlene Dietrich.”

South Africans will be pleased to know that talented perfumers are beginning to emerge locally. Agata Karolina, the Cape Town-based talent behind the recently established House of Gozdawa, is just one of many young South African entrepreneurs with a passion for perfume production, and it’s lovely to imagine that, soon, we might boast an Alberto (or Alberta!) Morillas of our own.

“

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My handwriting is my emotion.

When I write the formula, I can smell the perfume

”

beauty TE X T Nokubonga Thusi

colo ur s of t he s e a s o n

Spring/Summer 2017 is all about a technicolour overload, as this season’s hues go from aquatic blues to every shade of citrus P U R P L E 1

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ELIZABETH ARDEN SHEER KISS LIP OIL IN PURPLE S E R E N I T Y, R295

DOLCE & GABBANA THE EYESHADOW DUO IN 145 CO N T R A S T, R760

DOLCE & GABBANA THE NAIL LACQUER IN 315 LILAC, R425

MAC LIPSTICK IN EVENING BUZZ, R240

DIOR VERNIS IN 612 METALLICS, R425

ELIZABETH ARDEN EYESHADOW TRIO IN 01 TOUCH OF LAVENDER, R385

DOLCE & GABBANA THE GLAM LIQUID LINER IN 3 DAHLIA, R620

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SMASHBOX BE LEGENDARY LIQUID LIP I N I C E D O U T, R330

C AT R I C E P R Ê TÀ-LUMIÈRE LONGLASTING EYESHADOW IN 090, ALLEZ LES BLEUS, R80

LA GIRL METAL LIQUID LIPSTICK IN 868, R95

DOLCE & LA GIRL GABBANA THE INSPIRING NAIL LACQUER EYESHADOW IN 730 PA L E T T E , R 1 2 0 PEACOCK, R425

MAC LIPSTICK IN BLUE BANG, R240

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INGLOT COLOUR PLAY MASCARA IN 03 BLUE, R279

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INGLOT COLOUR PLAY MASCARA IN 02 GREEN, R279

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D I O R M E TALIZER EYES AND LIPS METAL CRÈME SHADOW IN 498 GREEN M A G N E T, R 3 9 0

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DOLCE & GABBANA THE NAIL LACQUER IN 725 WILD GREEN, R425

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CATRICE ABSOLUTE EYE COLOUR MONO IN 910 MY M E R M I N T, R 5 5

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DOLCE & GABBANA THE NAIL LACQUER IN 235 PA S S I O N E , R425

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CATRICE INGLOT AMC ICONAILS GEL L I P PA I N T I N LACQUER IN 64, R249 32 GET YOUR PINK ON, R70

DOLCE & GABBANA CLASSIC C R E A M L I PSTICK IN 250 G U I L T Y, R 6 1 5

LOV LOVINITY LONG LASTING NAIL LACQUER IN 160 REMARKABLE R E D, R 1 1 5

RVB LAB THE MAKE UP PROFESSIONAL LIPSTICK IN 13 ORANGE, R235

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CLARINS INSTANT LIGHT NATURAL LIP BALM PERFECTOR IN 04 ORANGE, R310

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LOV LOVINITY LONG LASTING NAIL LACQUER IN 090 PEACH PERFECTION, R115

PA L L A D I O I ’ M BLUSHING 2-IN-1 CHEEK AND LIP TINT IN PRECIOUS, R95

ELIZABETH ARDEN SHEER KISS LIP OIL IN CORAL CARESS R295

DOLCE & GABBANA BLUSH OF ROSES C R E A M Y FAC E COLOUR IN 10 ROSA AURORA, R900

INGLOT O2M BREATHABLE NAIL ENNAMEL IN 663, R199

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OPI NAIL LACQUER IN I JUST CAN’T COPE ACABANA, R184

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B O D YOGRAPHY GLITTER PIGMENT IN B U B B L Y, R 3 7 0

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GLO-MINERALS EYE SHADOW IN BANANA, R325

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3INA THE NAIL POLISH IN 153, R100

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CHANEL OMBRE PREMIÈRE LONGWEAR POWDER EYESHADOW IN 34 POUDRE D’OR, R575

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interior

TE X T Roby n Alexander

PR ODUCTI ON Sven Alberdi ng

PH OTOGR APH Y Greg Cox/ all bureaux bureaux.co.z a

In a s p a c i o u s Pa l m a d e M a l l o r c a ap ar t me nt , two s el f - d es c r i b ed “ a r t n erds” have cr e ated a ch a r m i n g ly c a s u a l h o me t h a t i s a l s o f i l l e d w i t h c o n t e mp o r a r y a r t

THE ART

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OF LIVING WELL

“S

O PP OS IT E PA G E

The Lundgrens on the stairway of their apartment with their sons, Lukas and Axel, and the family’s dogs, Nilla and Fannie

T OP LEF T

A skylight illuminates the stairwell above the front door

B OT T OM L EF T

Artworks in the Lundgrens’ entrance hall include a Ry Rocklen sculpture called Treaty, paintings by Lars Nilsson and Clare Rojas, and a Bigert & Bergstrom object with cable

MID D LE

An arched wooden door in the historical part of Palma de Mallorca, close to the Lundgrens’ apartment

T O P RIGH T

This large red and orange sculptural work is

by Timur Si-Qin

BO T T O M RIG H T

Earthy colours and narrow streets abound in the historical part of Palma de Mallorca, where the Lundgrens’ apartment is situated

ince we are art nerds,” says Stefan Lundgren, “everything revolves around art.” If you spend even a short time in the apartment, in the historical centre of Palma de Mallorca, where gallerist and collector Stefan lives with his wife Parnilla, his children, and two dogs, you will realise this is no idle boast.

In marked contrast to the weatherworn tonal colours that characterise the peaceful surrounding streets, and which continue up the serene old staircase that leads to the Lundgrens’ front door, a visitor’s first impression of their home is one of bright colours and arresting shapes. The entrance hall is where the at-home art show kicks off: the works on display include a sculpture by Ry Rocklen, paintings by Gerald Davis, Clare Rojas, David Noonan, Jonas Wood, Georg Herold, Bigert & Bergström, and Lars Nilsson; photographic works by Sara VanDerBeek and James Welling; a mixed-media piece by Justin Lieberman; and a Nicolas Ceccaldi video work.

Through the entrance hall, a series of rooms — each of which opens onto the next — draws the spellbound visitor through the apartment.

Another two rooms entirely devoted to artworks succeed the first, and they feature a boldly lit red sculpture by Timur Si-Qin, abstract and figurative contemporary paintings by Jonathan Meese and Fredrik Vaerslev, and sculptural works by Justin Beal and Alex Da Corte.

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Although Palma is not on the map of contemporary art right now, the Lundgrens might put it there. They’re originally from Sweden, and enjoy living in Mallorca. “The Spanish are the best at living a good life,” Lundgren says.

The couple is also about to open a third galler y space in the cit y.

Stefan Lundgren Gallery represents 17 artists from across the globe. “We want to create a playground for the artists who are doing the most interesting work — and asking the tricky questions — right now,” Lundgren says. It’s obvious that “work is life”, as Lundgren puts it, for this dynamic couple, who both started out as artists themselves. “It’s just that our hobby (of being collectors) has taken over,” he says. And although their priority at home is “to live with artworks that speak to you every day”, the Lundgrens’ space also accommodates all the comforts of home. Their vintage dining table and upholstered chairs are an obvious example, perfectly suited to long discussions about the state of contemporary art. Of course, the dining room is also filled with art: at the time of our shoot, a large painting by Chinese artist Zhao Zhao adorned the wall. The room also features wallpaper by Jacolby Satterwhite, and a monitor showing his video work, Reifying Desire 6.

A small work area next to the kitchen is filled with artworks, including a Kirsten Stoltmann photograph called Spray Bush, a Walead Beshty “curls” work, an Alice Channer drawing, and pieces

by SaraVanDerBeek, Carter Mull, and Georg Herold

T HI S PAG E

The kitchen is pared down yet functional, with everything the cook might require made easily and instantly accessible

FAR L E FT AND FAR RI G HT

In the dining room, upholstered chairs surround a vintage wooden table.

The blue “sky painting” is by Zhao Zhao and the sculptures are by Peter Sutherland and Stefan Lundgren. The antique crystal chandelier came with the apartment

MID D LE T OP

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This room — also given over entirely to the display of artworks — features two Justin Beal paintings, an Alex Da Corte sculpture and a Fredrik Vaerslev “terrazzo” painting. The large red and orange sculptural work is by Timur Si-Qin. Just visible through the doorway are a blue Zhao Zhao painting and, on the dining room table, sculptures by Peter Sutherland and Stefan Lundgren. The Lundgrens had the antique crystal chandelier carefully restored after they purchased the apartment

M ID D LE BO T T O M

The cosy living room is perhaps the most conventionally domestic space in the entire apartment, but, of course, there is room for art here too: a graphic photo triptych by Sara VanDerBeek, a huge C-print by Jacolby Satterwhite, a black painting by Steve Canaday, three small drawings by Amba Sayal-Bennett, and a bold, purple sculpture by Patrick Hill.

For the Lundgrens, the place where they live must prioritise the display of artworks. He says that when he looks at many homes in magazines, a frequent thought is: “Why did someone place that ugly vase in front of that beautiful piece of art?” It’s no surprise that the Lundgrens’ art-buying clients love to visit this apartment and view the artworks here. He describes the gallery’s clients as “very clear about what they want”.

“People come for the quality,” Lundgren says. “We are not the biggest gallery — and we worked from scratch to build up this business. Collectors like to buy from us because we are also collectors.” mallorcalandings.com

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in this at-home gallery space, the fabric artwork hanging from the ceiling is by Stephen G Rhodes, while the photographic work on the facing wall is Luis Gispert’s Dios Mio Gabbana.

The sculpture to the right of the photograph, Angela 750 is by Jason Meadows and the black asphalt-slab painting on the right-hand wall is also by Luis Gispert; the purple sculpture is

by Patrick Hill, with a trio of drawings by Amba Sayal-Bennett above it

T HI S PAG E

The large, colourful, photographic work on the right-hand side of this hallway is one of Walead Beshty’s “curls” works.

On the left is part of a painting by Per Martensson, and the painting above the doorway is by Trevor Shimizu

FA R L EF T

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A view from the entrance hall. The artworks are by Ry Rocklen, David Noonan, Georg Herold, James Welling, Jonas Wood, and Adam Henry

MID D LE

The hallway and stairwell feature a brass light fixture from antique store Sa Costa (antiguedadesacosta.com) and brass switch plates that are the products of a collaboration between More Design and Font Barcelona (fontbarcelona.com)

BO T T O M RI G H T

C

conversation

TE X T M i la Crewe- Brown

PH OTOGR APH Y M i chael Elli s, Karl Rogers

ape Town-based Adri van Zyl opened Atelier only in 2014, but already has a string of hypnotic spaces under her belt. “I had initially enrolled for law. The week before class started I pulled a Uturn and decided to do graphic design and photography, with absolutely no background in the arts,” she admits. Together with her fiancé Vincent Clery, a passionate designer who handles the commercial side of the business, the Atelier brand is becoming

a force to be reckoned with. Joburgers know her best for Work Shop New Town, while Capetonians are definitely not alone in their praise for Mulberry & Prince, the gob-smackingly gorgeous restaurant and wine bar with a blush-pink interior, exposed brick walls and luxe brass accents. Another project that still causes a stir is Honest Chocolate, for its step-back-in-time Parisian café aesthetic, thanks to its antique bentwood chairs, handmade tiles, bottlegreen velvet, and exposed brickwork courtyard.

A quick scan of van Zyl’s enviable Instagram feed reveals her passion for colour, with a stream of provocative design scenes in delicious shades and magnetic textures. Currently, Atelier is busy with a handful of exciting residential projects, including a monochromatic bachelor pad and a bohemian family sanctuary. The thread that runs through all of Atelier’s work? Authenticity. Interiors that steep you in their mood and spark a response are what it’s all about. atelierinteriors.xyz

In conversation with A D R I VA N Z Y L

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The emerging star behind Atelier Interior Design tells us about her work, her design crushes, and the need for novelty

PURPLE RAIN

ADRI VAN ZYL

MULBERRY & PRINCE

MULBERRY & PRINCE

My earliest memories of great design are… my grandfather’s mid-century, olive-green, beachhouse chair. And the Rubik’s cube. I’m always stirred by… colour. The last three projects we completed were… some display units for the V&A Waterfront, a collaboration for Design Joburg, and a décor job for a stunning home in Pearl Valley near Franschhoek. Design… what’s it really about?

There’s that age-old adage about functionality following form, but really, it’s all about holding space

INTERIOR

MEYER VON WIELLIGH

HONEST CHOCOLATE

SANDERSON LIBRARY

STAY EVIL KIDS

beautifully. The materials I most love to work with are… bold, patterned marbles and lush velvets. I’m also a huge fan of terrazzo, but have been struggling to find a good local supplier. Three spaces that move me… 1. Gaudi’s La Sagrada Familia — it’s absolutely breath-taking. 2. The Sandersons’ library in their private home designed by Kelly Wearstler.

3. I take great inspiration from nature and was recently fortunate to experience the late Geoffrey Bawa’s mastery of natural form at his private residence in Lunuganga, Sri Lanka. Our product range is… soon to be launched. For almost all of our projects we design unique furniture pieces. We’ll be releasing some of those as limited editions, as well as developing some brand-new ranges — expect them in early 2018. The best advice I was ever given was… “Be brave and be kind”. The National gave me that advice. Which ingredient brings magic to the spaces you create? Interesting and unique use of materials and attention to detail.

Novelty is important and often the smallest things make the biggest difference. The colour I’m loving right now is… rust. Describe the space you live in… We live in a 100-year-old Victorian duplex in Green Point. We’ve tried to respect the natural heritage and grace of the house, while curating the living rooms with our adventurous style. The dining room is completely black, and the house is full of unique pieces that we’ve designed or collected on our travels. We’ve also turned our bathroom into a forest. Do you think it correlates with the work you produce professionally? Definitely. Often, I will incorporate elements of my dream house into a project. The best presents are the ones you buy for someone else, but would secretly really love for yourself. My fashion aesthetic is… I’m not really one for a prescribed style, and like to mix it up. I like clean lines and casual wear with a hint of fun. I’ll often throw in some interesting earrings or a statement jewellery piece. The one space that still gives me tingles every time I return… is the secret courtyard at Honest Chocolate. You feel as if you’ve stepped into a European back alley and found a local gem. It’s the got this magic-realism feel to it — the kind of place you’d read about in a book. I’m in awe of… some of our local furniture design and art, for example Meyer von Wielligh’s Two Ocean’s Drinks Cabinet and Conrad Hicks’ Implementer Bench. Southern Art Ceramics is really pushing the boundary with their surface designs. I admire Studio 19’s clean design aesthetic and am in dire need of a Dirty Mirror, recently launched by Stay Evil Kids.

My current wallpaper or textile crush is… unsurprisingly, the Graffito wallpaper range by Kelly Wearstler, for its hand-painted, abstract pattern.

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books

TE X T Nothemba M khondo

PORTR AI T BY Kri s Dewi tte

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Vernon’s career has spanned the fields of design, jewellery, fashion and architecture; she has crossed boundaries to redefine ideas of sex and elevate sexuality to become something sacred.

Her magnum opus — The Boudoir Box, a selection of up to 70 pieces from her collections — is on display in the Museum of Modern Art in Paris. “If we follow our instincts we are all artists of some sort,” she says. betonyvernon.com

BETONY VERNON IS blurring the boundaries between art, jewellery, and pleasure with her collection of fine erotic jewellery and offbeat sex guide, The Boudoir Bible. “Jewellery is the most intimate thing we can put on our body, so why not get really intimate, in the literal sense of the word?” she muses.

For Vernon, contemporary jewellery has the ability to transcend its traditional characterisation and not only become wearable art, but also a tool for sexual power. “I consider much of my jewellery to be wearable sculptures,” she says. “The purpose of my jewellery is to reinvent the sensory experience and empower the wearer with the power to please.”

Vernon started making jewellery when she was 17 years old, and made it her mission to dismantle the taboo of all taboos — sexual pleasure. “Everything that I do is informed by my fascination with human sexual behaviour throughout history,” she says. “My erotic designs became the bridge to my vision — to dismantle the pleasure taboo”.

With a background in art history, together with her personal quest for enhanced pleasure,

coffee-table keepers

Betony Vernon on designing erotic jewellery and the art and inspiration of pleasure

BETONY VERNON’S TOP FIVE COFFEE-TABLE BOOKS

CODEX SERAPHINIANUS Lu igi Ser affin i

MEDUSA Bi j oux e t t abous

I love the artist’s illustrations and his sense of invention — he created an indecipherable alphabet to reveal a world that does not exist.

FAUSTO MELOTTI

The catalogue for the exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art in Paris is an unexpected documentation of a selection of objects that blurs the definition and function of jewellery.

CARLO MOLLINO POLAROIDS

Anything featuring the work of Fausto Melotti: he is an artist I simply adore.

L’ART EROTIQUE JAPONAIS L e mo n d e s ecr et d es s h u n ga

Carlo Mollino’s work has always been an incredible source of inspiration for me, both as a designer and photographer.

The Secret World of Shunga.

I love the refinement of Japanese erotic art.

01280 GREEN CROSS/EDIT/E/360 DIGITAL

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