Virginia Sportsman Winter 2021

MARCUS KING’S NEW SOLO ALBUM | VIRGINIA CRAFT CIDERS | WINTER GEAR GUIDE | SOUTHERN SNOW IN WEST VIRGINIA

WINTER 2021

The Foxfield Races VIRGINIA’S BELOVED STEEPLECHASE TRADITION RACES INTO A NEW ERA

WILD TROUT IN THE WILD WEST A Cast of Characters Fish for Wild Wyoming Trout

Venison 101 TIPS AND TRICKS FOR LONG-TIME WILD GAME COOKS AND BEGINNERS

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T H E V I R G I N I A S P O R T S M A N | WINTER 2021

THE WINTER 2021 ISSUE

FEATURES

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RACING INTO A NEW ERA

Local supporters band together to save and refocus Virginia’s beloved Foxfield Races.

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WILD TROUT IN THE WILD WEST Read about fly fishing for wild Wyoming trout with a cast of characters in the Wild West.

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PULLING STRINGS FOR COMMONWEALTH BUCKS

Archery deer hunting season offers bountiful opportunity for Virginia hunters in fall and winter.

F A L L F LY F I S H I N G I N W Y O M I N G C A N I N V O L V E W I L D T R O U T, B R I L L I A N T F O L I A G E A N D S N O W F A L L W I T H C O N D I T I O N S A N D C H A R AC T E R S T H AT M A K E F O R A G R E AT T R I P. P H O T O B Y J O E S H I E L D S

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DEPARTMENTS THE WINTER 2021 ISSUE

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Marcus King worked with Dan Auerbach of the Black Keys to create his new solo album “El Diablo.”

12 Ridges Vineyard & Residence Club takes luxury to new heights in central Virginia.

THE SOUND

FROM THE FIELD

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AT L A N T I C R A N C H E R C O M PA N Y ’ S P R O D U C T S A R E D E D I C AT E D TO T H E I N D I V I D UA L S L I V I N G A N D W O R K I N G O N T H E WAT E R S A N D M A R S H E S O F T H E AT L A N T I C C O A S T.

OUTFITTED We’ve got some great gear picks for Winter that will help make your holiday shopping easy.

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WELL FED Hank Shaw, James Beard Award-winning author and contributing editor, shares his “Venison 101.”

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RAISE A GLASS Craft ciders continue to flourish in Virginia. Here are four of our top picks.

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GREAT ESCAPE Tucker County, W.Va., is a winter wonderland offering skiing, snowshoeing, snowmobiling and more.

T H E V I R G I N I A S P O R T S M A N | WINTER 2021

On the Cover The Foxfield Races, Virginia’s beloved steeplechase tradition, was recently saved and transformed thanks to a handful of local supporters.

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The Winter 2021 Issue

EDITOR IN CHIEF JOE SHIELDS WITH A BEAUTIFUL RAINBOW TROUT

EDITOR’S NOTE W

e’ve written about The Foxfield Races before, and we’re delighted to feature the bi-annual event again as the cover story for our Winter issue. It’s a celebratory article and a special “thank you” to a handful of locals who banded together to save—and ultimately refocus— Charlottesville’s beloved steeplechase races so we can enjoy them for years to come.

The Foxfield Races have rich history, dating back nearly 50 years with steeplechase races in the fall and spring. It’s a premier social occasion and horseracing treasure, woven into the fabric of the community. The sale of the 179-acre farm to a developer with plans for subdivision threatened the future of the races, and thankfully some people did something about it.

John Kelly’s “Racing into a New Era” is a fitting title--and tagline. The organization’s slogan is symbolic of a refocusing effort aimed at enhancing the Foxfield experience in a way that will introduce its magic to all corners of the local community and enhance its appeal among the equestrian set.

The initiative also created lasting partnerships with Habitat for Humanity (fall), and The University of Virginia Children’s Cancer Center (spring). I attended the races in October, and if the success of that event is any indication, the refocused Foxfield Races are off to a fine start.

Soon after Foxfield, I traveled with friends to target wild trout in Wyoming. On our first day, I marveled at the expanse of land and bluebird sky. The heart-shaped leaves of the plains cottonwoods had turned their

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fall shades of yellow. We caught some nice fish—including my first cuttbow (cutthroat + rainbow = cuttbow) trout. On day two, state roads froze, and it snowed 11 inches. The weather, combined with a cast of characters, resulted in the type of experience you’d hope for in the Wild West.

This time of year also marks the archery deer season. Bryan Hendricks’ “Pulling Strings for Commonwealth Bucks” is a fitting feature that’s timed perfectly. While early archery deer season runs Oct. 2 - Nov. 1 statewide, late archery season dates vary depending on the region but run through early winter.

If you’re lucky or skilled enough to take a deer with a bow, there’s no better guy to show you how to cook it than contributing editor Hank Shaw.

The mastermind behind the critically acclaimed website Hunter Angler Gardener Cook, Shaw is a nationally known expert in wild foods ranging from wild edible plants and mushrooms to game, fish and seafood. His “Venison 101” includes great information, including venison food safety and helpful cooking tips.

Winter 2021 also offers helpful holiday gear gift picks for the sporting people in your life. In addition, the issue highlights music and spirits that will make your celebrations more enjoyable. Enjoy the holidays and thank you for reading.

Long live print!

The Winter 2021 Issue | THE SOUND

BEYOND THE BLUES As a young musician who’s already worked with a big cast of heroes, Marcus King still has a long way to go.

STORY BY JEDD FERRIS

O

pportunity keeps knocking for Marcus King. At just 25 years old he’s checked off enough high-profile collaborations to satisfy any musician for life.

When King first emerged, his raw talent—serious guitar chops mixed with a pure R&B voice—was staggeringly apparent, and predecessors took notice.

While still a teenager, he was mentored by Gov’t Mule’s Warren Haynes, who produced the Marcus King Band’s 2016 eponymous album, an authentic roots effort that also featured an appearance by slide guitar ace Derek Trucks. He then worked with Americana go-to producer Dave Cobb on the 2018 follow-up, “Carolina Confessions,” and became a regular opening act on Chris Stapleton’s All-American Road Show.

Endorsements aside, King has mostly built his own reputation through a rigorous road ethic, touring relentlessly with a dynamic sound that combines searing old-school Southern soul with thrilling blues-based fret work.

"I love Marcus [King] as an artist,” country star Zac Brown told Billboard, when discussing King’s guest spot on his new song, “Stubborn Pride.” “I think he’s going to be one of the best guitar players that’s ever lived.”

MARCUS KING WORKED WITH PRODUCER DAN AUERBACH O F T H E B L A C K K E Y S O N H I S L AT E S T A L B U M , " E L D O R A D O ."

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PHOTO COURTESY OF AMFM LLC

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Music has always been an integral part of King’s life. He grew up in South Carolina, a fourth-generation musician, who was playing in his father Marvin King’s blues band as a pre-teen. He studied the traditional masters, like B.B. King, and largely carried the blues torch on his debut album, “Soul Insight,” but ultimately King decided to pursue a broader sound.

To make his latest effort, “El Dorado,” an album billed as his HE STUDIED THE TRADITIONAL MASTERS, solo debut under his LIKE B.B. KING, AND own name, sans band, LARGELY CARRIED King took direction THE BLUES TORCH ON HIS DEBUT ALBUM, from another hero, Dan “SOUL INSIGHT,” BUT Auerbach of the Black ULTIMATELY KING DECIDED TO PURSUE A Keys. With Auerbach at BROADER SOUND. the production helm, King was connected with a cast of veteran Nashville session players and made his most wellrounded set of songs to date. Full-throttle rockers like “The Well” mingle with mellow, front-porch meditations (“Sweet Mariona”) and heartache ballads (“Break), while the hypnotic groove of “Turn It Up” offers a funky romp into the sounds of the Mississippi Hill Country.

King is known for live, loose jamming, but on his most recent record he takes the opportunity to hone tracks and get overtly genre-specific, especially when he conjures Al Green’s soulful tenderness in “Love You” and channels Willie Nelson’s outlaw spirit in the rambling “Too Much Whiskey.” It’s another step forward for a young artist who still has plenty of ground to cover.

King will hit the road for an extended North American tour this winter, performing at the Norva in Norfolk on February 25 and the National in Richmond on February 26.

Five Essential Tracks PHOTO COURTESY OF AMFM LLC

“The Well”

The influence of the Black Keys’ Dan Auerbach, who produced King’s Grammynominated album “El Dorado,” is strong on this track—a gritty blues stomper with relentless garage-rock guitar shredding.

“Homesick”

King flexes his soulful vocal chops on this earnest retro

R&B tune from his fullband 2018 album “Carolina Confessions.” The song moves along with a funky, danceready groove that gives way to a rousing gospel-minded chorus.

“Break”

This wispy ballad from “El Dorado” shows another side of King’s voice, as he uses

a gentle falsetto cradled in atmospheric strings to pine for a lover’s devotion.

“Self-Hatred”

Guitar fireworks are abundant in this standout from the Marcus King Band’s eponymous 2016 album, as the group leader trades fierce licks with slide master Derek Trucks.

“Stubborn Pride” King steals the show on this song from the Zac Brown Band’s latest album, “The Comeback.” On the sevenminute country track King uses his guest spot to trade verses with Brown and punctuate the song’s humbling message with a patient, extended guitar break. •

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The Winter 2021 Issue | OUTFITTED

TOM BECKBE’S SPORTING VEST IS THE PERFECT COMPLEMENT F O R A DAY I N THE FIELD OR AN AFTERNOON IN TOWN.

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WINTER GEAR PICKS

BY ERIC KALLEN

TOM BECKBE, SPORTING VEST [1] The line between durable enough for the field, and smart enough to wear around town is a fine one. I am a hunter and know what I need when I am traipsing through brambles and brush looking for quail. But I also want a stylish look when I am going out to dinner with friends. Tom Beckbe, a high-end brand based in Birmingham, Ala., has skillfully crafted outerwear that meets these dual needs.

Steeped in Southern Heritage, Tom Beckbe’s sporting vest is made from 8-ounce waxed shelter cloth that is rugged and functional. In addition to classic camo, the vest is available in three colors that offer a rich patina with wear and tear that only comes with age and use. Adding to the vest’s striking look is a cotton twill liner, which is dyed in Alabama red clay, and a standup collar that is lined in Bedford Cord. Finding an heirloom-quality vest than can hold up to the rigors of the field and maintain a sense of style is a hard thing to do, but the folks at Tom Beckbe have pulled it off. $299.00; www.tombeckbe.com

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FILSON, DRY WAIST PACK [2] Anyone who’s ever entered a river with a fly rod in their hand knows the feeling. Slipping on rocks or stepping into a surprisingly deep hole usually results in a proper soaking—and the gear in your vest pays the price. Whether wet wading in summer or outfitted in waders for colder water temperatures, figuring out how to keep your flies and other accessories dry is key. Filson’s Dry Waste Pack offers a rugged, waterproof solution. Engineered with heavy duty, durable 840-denier nylon tarpaulin fabric coated with thermoplastic polyurethane, Filson’s Dry Waste pack provides all the room you need for a day on the water, with the peace of mind that whatever you put inside is going to stay dry. $235.00; www.filson.com

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NOMADIQ, PORTABLE PROPANE GAS GRILL [3] Life is about sacrifices. Historically, opting for a gas grill that you can pack up and take with you meant sacrificing a quality grilling experience. The nomadiQ portable propane gas grill is a game changer. Manufactured with high-quality die-cast aluminum parts, the grill’s lightweight and ultra-portable folding design makes bringing your grilling game to the beach, campsite or tailgate as easy as it gets. Fueled by 16-ounce propane tanks (the green Coleman ones), the nomadiQ puts out nearly 10,000 BTUs between the two independently regulated burners. The grill’s two ceramic-coated, non-stick grates offer more than 225 square inches of grilling space—enough for 10 hamburgers. Despite its portability and light weight, the nomadiQ has all the power and characteristics of a full-size grill. For those looking to take their grilling game to the next level—and to a few new locations—the nomadiQ is for you. $299.99; www.nomadiqgrills.com

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THE ORIGINAL MUCK BOOT COMPANY, APEX PRO BOOTS [4] We live in the age of technology, so it should come as no surprise that our boots have joined in the progression. Long known for their ability to keep feet dry and comfortable in the most demanding conditions, Muck Boot Company’s newest boots, the Apex Pro, take things to a whole new level. The Apex Pro’s 4mm Neoprene uppers are 100% waterproof, and when combined with a comfortable mesh lining, they provide cushion, comfort and breathability. The Apex’s new Vibram outsole grip and traction provides comfort and confidence when slogging through the mud and the muck. Just when you thought it couldn’t get any better, the Apex boots are now available in Mossy Oak’s all new Country DNA camo pattern, certain to turn heads when out on your next hunt. $190.00; www. muckbootcompany.com

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ARCADE BELTS, ILLUSION CAPTURE BELT [5] Trying to find a belt that is stylish and versatile, yet able to withstand the rigors or travel and adventure is no easy task.

Arcade Belts has worked to create a line of belts that are more comfortable, functional and enduring than your average belt. Made with elastic stretch webbing, a low-profile plastic buckle and available in a wide variety

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of colors and patterns, Arcade has attracted several adventure-driven ambassadors who endorse their products—including Jimmy Chin.

The award-winning mountaineer/filmmaker recently collaborated with Arcade on an intelligently designed Illusion Belt featuring his signature mountain motif and logo. The belts are part of Arcade’s Capture line, which is aimed at the adventurer who is looking for something a little dressier. The Illusion line is stylish and sleek, but it still maintains functionality, durability and customization that adventurers crave. $39.99-$42.99 (for the Jimmy Chin belt); www.arcadebelts.com

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ATLANTIC RANCHER COMPANY, OUTLAW GUNNER JACKET [6] Every brand has a narrative, and Atlantic Rancher Company’s story has long ties to history. Founded by Engle Saez in the mid1990’s and relaunched after a brief hiatus in 2019, Atlantic Rancher Company’s products are inspired by the Atlantic Ranchers—the individuals who spend their days working and living on the waters and marshes of the Atlantic Coast. The Outlaw Gunner Jacket pays homage to the market gunners of the early 20th century who played a cat-and-mouse game with wildlife officials who tried to curtail their illegal hunting activity. Manufactured from weatherproof 100% cotton, this quilted shell is durable, functional and fashionable.

What more could you ask for? $298; www. atlanticrancher.com

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R.L. WINSTON ROD CO., AIR 2 FLY ROD [7] Keeping heart and soul in fly rod design and marching along with the advances in technology is no easy task. For Winston Rod Co., it’s a blend the brand strives for in every fly rod it produces. Winston’s latest addition to their long line of award-winning fly rods is the Air 2. Manufactured with the craftsmanship and classic looks of its predecessor, the Air, the Air 2 is a fast-action rod capable of covering a broad range of casting distances.

“This rod doesn’t back down. It’s fast and powerful, but it can also deliver your fly with accuracy,” said Tommy Lawhorne, owner of the South River Fly Shop in Waynesboro, Va. Available in 3- through 6-weight rods in both 8’6” (3- and 4-weights) and 9’ lengths (4-, 5- and 6-weights), this rod has something for everyone in the hunt for epic trout. $1,095; www.winstonrods.com

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MARK YOUR CALENDAR!

Join us as we race into a new era!

Saturday, April 30th, 2022 foxfieldraces.com

BENEFITING: Photo credit: Sanjay Suchak

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SWIFTWICK, VISION WINTER COLLECTION SOCKS [8] If you find yourself outside this winter— whether running, biking, hiking or just walking around the neighborhood—a good pair of socks can make a big difference.

Swiftwick’s VISION socks are made with soft merino wool that keeps feet cool, dry and snug. The VISION socks are a moderate compression sock offering comfort and support without too much cushion. The limited-edition Winter Collection socks are available in a variety of styles, all of which celebrate the season. $19.99; www.swiftwick.com

JACK WOLFSKIN, DNA RHAPSODY 3-IN-1 HARDSHELL JACKET [9]

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Dressing for outdoor winter adventures of any kind requires layers and flexibility. The Jack Wolfskin DNA Rhapsody 3-in -1 jacket has all of that in a single garment. Capable of keeping you weatherproof on the outside and warm on the inside, the jacket is comprised of a windproof, breathable outer shell and a separate, high-quality fleece interior. The jacket is designed to be worn together, with the inner fleece zippering into the outer shell, or separately. These combinations cover you in a variety of different weather conditions, so if you are heading outdoors this winter and want a single jacket, the DNA Rhapsody has you covered. Literally. $289.95; www. us.jackwolfskin.com

HOKA ONE ONE, ANACAPA MID GTX HIKING BOOTS [10] Having established a reputation for their ultra-plush running shoes, Hoka’s Anacapa Mid GTX hiking boots represent the company’s foray into the hiking arena.

The boots are lightweight and provide the cushion of a trail-running shoe yet offer the stability and durability of a traditional hiking boot. The Anacapa Mid GTX is the perfect choice for casual day hikes or more ambitious adventures. If your hiking leads you down a muddy path, have no fear. The Anacapa Mid GTX has a waterproof, breathable GORETEX lining, and the boots’ Vibram soles offer excellent traction in all types of terrain.

Available in men’s and women’s sizes in both mid- and low-cut styles, the Anacapa is worth serious consideration when you shop for your next pair of trail shoes. $169.95; hokaoneone.com

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The Winter 2021 Issue | RAISE A GLASS

APPLES ALL AROUND Craft cider continues to grow in Virginia. Here are four of our favorites to sip this winter.

STORY BY JEDD FERRIS

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PHOTO COURTESY OF POTTER'S CIDER

POTTER'S CRAFT CIDER'S POPULAR FARMHOUSE DRY IS MADE FROM A BLEND OF GOLD RUSH, ALBEMARLE PIPPIN AND WINESAP APPLES.

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M

ore than 30 varieties of apples are grown in orchards across Virginia, giving hard cider makers plenty to work with. Accordingly, a craft scene has started to flourish in the Commonwealth, with tap rooms open in city neighborhoods and on rural farms. For some of the most inspired takes on fermented fruit, we’ve rounded up four of our favorite cideries.

Potter’s Craft Cider Charlottesville

WHERE TO VISIT: Although Potter’s has been making artisanal cider for nearly a decade, the popular cidery moved into a new home in 2019, repurposing Neve Hall, a century-old former church, into a stunning tasting room, with stone walls and cozy fireplaces, located in a rural setting just three miles south of Charlottesville.

Potter’s often has an impressive line-up of live music, which provides the perfect backdrop for tasting creative hard ciders, like the popular Farmhouse Dry or the seasonally appropriate Cranberry Orange Blossom.

WHAT TO DRINK: No worries if you can’t make it to the tasting room, because Potter’s is distributed throughout Virginia and in

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a handful of surrounding states. The aforementioned Farmhouse Dry—a crisp, brightly flavored cider made with Gold Rush, Albemarle Pippin, and Old Virginia Winesap apples—is available in 750 mL bottles, while other offerings, like the must-try Guava Galaxy, come in 12-ounce cans.

Blue Bee Cider Richmond

WHERE TO VISIT: Virginia’s first urban cidery first opened in 2013, but settled in its current location, among the Richmond’s bustling craft beverage scene in the Scott’s Addition neighborhood, a few years later. Now located in a renovated building that once held mule stables owned by the city, Blue Bee is crafting some of Virginia’s most innovative ciders, using seasonally ripe, heirloom Virginia apples that are often infused with hops or additional fruit grown by local producers.

WHAT TO DRINK: Rocky Ridge Reserve is made with a custom apple blend that’s aged in whiskey barrels from fellow Virginia outfit T W O R I C H M O N D C I D E R I E S : B LU E B E E C I D E R ( L E F T ) I S LO C AT E D I N T H E S C OT T ' S A D D I T I O N N E I G H B O R H O O D, W H I L E B R YA N T ' S ( R I G H T ) H A S A TA S T I N G R O O M I N S H O C KO E B OT TO M .

ALL PHOTO COURTESY OF CIDERIES

S LY C LY D E CIDERWORKS MAKES AN EXTENSIVE LINE OF CANNED CRAFT CIDERS IN HAMPTON.

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Catoctin Creek Distilling Company, resulting in a richly flavored cider that hits the palette with comforting caramel notes and the bright tartness of the fruit.

Sly Clyde Ciderworks Hampton

WHERE TO VISIT: Brothers Tim and Doug Smith wanted to honor their late grandfather Clyde, so they named their urban farm cidery, located just a block from the Chesapeake Bay in Hampton, after the family elder. To match Clyde’s humorous, easy-going demeanor, the Smith brothers make an extensive lineup of approachable hard ciders that often mix Virginia apples with an array of spices and additional fruits. Popular options range from the dry Cut & Run, which is made with ginger and a hint of lemon, to the semi-sweet Swinging Compass, which features habanero and rosemary.

WHAT TO DRINK: Sly Clyde always has a long list of ciders at their Hampton taproom, but the company also distributes cans in parts of Virginia and North Carolina.

Check shelves for Inkjet, a slightly tart cider with blackberry and mint that tastes like a refreshing mojito.

Bryant’s Cider

Richmond and Roseland

ALL PHOTO COURTESY OF CIDERIES

WHERE TO VISIT: There are two locations to taste Bryant’s small-batch cider—an 1850s storefront in Richmond’s Shockoe Bottom area and an idyllic family farm in Nelson County that also dates back to the 19th century. At the latter, the Bryant family has maintained orchards for more than 170 years, and today apples grown on the land are used to make dry, brut ciders—some aged in bourbon barrels or infused with local strawberries and peaches. At the farm location, cidermaster and owner Jerry Thorton also started brewing a limited line-up of craft beers, including a brown ale and a light hoppy wheat beer.

WHAT TO DRINK: A cult favorite in the craft scene, Unicorn Fuel is a brut cider made with Nelson County apples that’s infused with organic rosehips and hibiscus.

It’s perfect for those who like dry wines with a bit of citrus acidity on the back end. ( TO P L E F T ) T H E I N T E R I O R O F B R YA N T ' S C I D E R ' S R I C H M O N D TA S T I N G R O O M . ( B OT TO M L E F T ) P OT T E R ' S C R A F T C I D E R ' S TA S T I N G R O O M I S LO C AT E D I N A C E N T U R Y- O L D F O R M E R C H U R C H , J U S T S O U T H O F CHARLOTTESVILLE. (TOP RIGHT) BLUE BEE'S ROCKY RIDGE RESERVE IS AGED IN WHISKEY BARRELS. (BOTTOM RIGHT) B R YA N T ' S C I D E R ' S U N I C O R N F U E L I S M A D E W I T H ROSEHIPS AND HIBISCUS.

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A DV ERT I S EM EN T

welcome to the Small Towns, Big Backyard of Lexington and Rockbridge County, Va.

Just off the bustle of Interstates 81 and 64, the rolling hills and winding roads of Rockbridge County invite you to slow things down and stay for a while. Located at the southern gateway to the Shenandoah Valley, you’ll have easy access to 64,000 acres of national forest lands, miles of the Appalachian Trail and Blue Ridge Parkway, two rivers and countless locally-owned shops in Lexington and Buena Vista. Whether it’s a weekend trip or weeklong getaway, use this itinerary to explore the best the area has to offer.

A DV ERT I S EM EN T

Adesso Vineyards, whether seated in the library or enjoying the mountain views in the fresh air. Keep an eye out for exciting things coming in 2022 as facilities expand and new wines hit the shelf.

Extended Stay: A tour with the Lexington Carriage Company is one highlight you don’t want to miss. This horse-drawn ride fuses scenic views with the history of the charming college town.

Evening Amusements There’s something about a good meal after a long day outside that just hits differently, like savoring dinner on the balcony of the Juniper Lounge as you watch the sunset over Main Street.

Explore more options like Tonic Restaurant and Lounge, TAPS and Haywood’s Piano Bar and Grill.

Morning Fun Start your trip off with a visit to the county’s namesake, Natural Bridge State Park. Walk the short trail down to Cedar Creek where you’ll be greeted with a sight of the towering limestone formation carved out over millions of years. Take advantage of stargazing opportunities throughout the year in this International Dark Sky Park.

Just around the corner, the Virginia Safari Park is a fantastic stop for the whole family with numerous ways to encounter and feed the animals by car and foot. Make your way into the town of Lexington where you’ll find dozens of shops to browse, including the delicacies of Cocoa Mill Chocolate Company, Cheese to You and Old Lex Mercantile.

Extended Stay: From Glen Maury Park, Lake Robertson, and Goshen Pass to the sprawling George Washington and Jefferson National Forest, fill your days with hiking, fishing, paddling and biking.

Photos by Ellen Kanzinger; carrriage photo by Chris Weisler; The Georges photo by Sera Petras Photography

Afternoon Delights The aromas wafting from the Southern Inn’s kitchen will leave you craving a plate of their famous fried chicken as you refuel after the morning’s activities. Indulge your sweet tooth with a scoop from Sweet Things Ice Cream Shoppe, a stop that should be on every visitor’s bucket list as each cone proves homemade treats are always better.

After lunch, stroll through the lavender fields at Tantivy Farms for sweet fragrances and pollinators buzzing about the plants, or walk out to Tantivy Falls for a peaceful moment beside the water. Then it’s time for a wine tasting at Ecco

Cap your day off with a seasonal ghost tour of Lexington, a delightful combination of storytelling, history and entertainment that shows a different side of town after the sun goes down. If ghost stories aren’t your thing, follow the Shenandoah Beerwerks Trail for a drink at a local brewery, or catch the latest cinematic releases at Hull’s Drive-In, open March through October.

Extended Stay: Cozy up at one of the three hotels within walking distance to the historic downtown—The Georges, The Gin Hotel, and the Hampton Inn Col Alto—or one of the area’s many B&Bs, inns, cabins, vacation home rentals or campgrounds.

Between the inviting small towns and expansive backyard, discover for yourself why Lexington, Buena Vista, and Rockbridge County should be your next Virginia destination. •

The Winter 2021 Issue | FROM THE FIELD

TAKING LUXURY TO NEW HEIGHTS IN CENTRAL VIRGINIA 12 Ridges Vineyard and Residence Club

PHOTO BY TK

S T O R Y B Y J O H N K E L LY

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1 2 R I D G E S I S TA K I N G H O S P I TA L I T Y TO NEW HEIGHTS WITH THE 12 R I D G E S V I N E YA R D & R E S I D E N C E CLUB, AN EQUITY RESIDENCE CLUB OFFERING A FRACTIONAL CO-OWNERSHIP MODEL.

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S

ometimes a lunch break is not just a lunch break. That was certainly the case for Craig Colberg one day 10 years ago when he sat down for a sandwich at a local gas station/deli in Charlottesville.

During a successful career in the investment world, he found his eyes drawn to an advertisement in the local real estate magazine. It was no larger, he said, than his cell phone. Could it be, he wondered, the magical property along the Blue Ridge Parkway? The COULD IT BE, HE one that had captured WONDERED, THE his imagination when he MAGICAL PROPERTY ALONG THE BLUE used to drive past it as a RIDGE PARKWAY? child?

THE ONE THAT HAD Colberg made a CAPTURED HIS IMAGINATION WHEN phone call. He took a HE USED TO DRIVE recon mission on the PAST IT AS A CHILD? weekend. Same property indeed.

Colberg made an offer Monday, had a contract Friday, and the story of 12 Ridges Vineyard and Residence Club began. He and his wife Anne were not at all sure what they would do the property when they purchased it, and while good wine was a passion of Colberg’s, a vineyard wasn’t on their minds until some years later.

DESIGNED BY WORLD-RENOWNED FIRM BOHLIN CYWINSKI JACKSON (BCJ), THE H O M E S W E R E I M A G I N E D B Y C O L B E R G A S “A M O D E R N I N T E R P R E TAT I O N O F A M O U N TA I N TO P H O M E ” A N D W I L L B E F U L LY F U R N I S H E D A N D ACCESSORIZED, WITH GOURMET KITCHENS AND BEAUTIFUL OUTDOOR AREAS.

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A T A N A LT I T U D E O F 3 , 3 0 0 F E E T, 1 2 R I D G E S I S T H E H I G H E S T - A LT I T U D E V I N E Y A R D IN VIRGINIA, AND REQUIRES, ACCORDING TO OWNER CRAIG C O L B E R G , “ H E R O I C F A R M I N G .”

The property had a rich history dating back to the 1960’s. It had provided grazing land for sheep before later becoming a Belgian-style village. It was also a Christmas tree farm and a private event center for Washington & Lee University. In 2017, Colberg began reading about cool-climate wines, and his interest was piqued further during a visit to his wife’s native South Africa where he met a winemaker who was encouraging of the idea. Upon his return home, soil tests were ordered, which showed the land to be rich in nutrients.

He had one small clue that it might work—a single vine he could see from one of the houses on the property that produced a tiny but reliable crop each year.

It wouldn’t be easy, but it would be recordIT WOULDN’T BE EASY, BUT IT breaking. At an altitude of WOULD BE RECORD3,300 feet, 12 Ridges is the BREAKING. AT AN ALTITUDE OF 3,300 highest-altitude vineyard FEET, 12 RIDGES in Virginia. This, Colberg IS THE HIGHESTlearned, would require ALTITUDE VINEYARD IN VIRGINIA. THIS, what he calls “heroic COLBERG LEARNED, farming.”

WOULD REQUIRE “There is a lot we have WHAT HE CALLS “HEROIC FARMING.” to endure up here, from a shorter growing season to wind, cold weather, and the limited variety of grapes we can put it in the ground,” he said.

Never one to back away from a challenge, Colberg put a team of consultants together that included noted Virginia wine industry expert Jake Busching and ground expert Bubba Easley.

This year, 12 Ridges celebrated its first harvest.

Meanwhile, the vineyard was already developing a loyal following of visitors from around the Commonwealth, drawn by its nearly unmatched panoramic vistas and a mountain microclimate that provides a much-needed respite from the summer heat and humidity. The vineyard also offers first-class hospitality that has wine lovers coming back—and raving to friends.

This spring, 12 Ridges is taking their brand of hospitality to brand new heights with the launch of the 12 Ridges Vineyard & Residence Club, an equity residence club offering a fractional co-ownership model. Located on 77 acres just over a green grass ridge from the winery’s gorgeous tasting room and expansive outdoor deck, the development will feature 14 private, spacious lots that will each feature homes unlike any other you will find at a Virginia resort property.

Colberg, a fan of modern architecture, was imagining “a modern interpretation of a mountaintop home.” He engaged the internationally renowned firm

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Bohlin Cywinski Jackson (BCJ). “They created the early Apple stores,” he said, including the iconic glass cube on Central Park South. They also did Bill Gates’ house, Colberg added, and had an excellent working relationship with Steve Jobs.”

Each 12 Ridges home will be fully furnished and accessorized, with gourmet kitchens and beautiful outdoor areas featuring barbecues, hot tubs and fire pits, not to mention jaw-dropping views ranging from mountains to valleys and back again. Each residence will have eight owners who will enjoy frequent use of the property throughout the year. They will also reap the benefits of a Residence Club staff who help them combine luxury resort-style living with the benefits of vacation home ownership—with a dedicated Residence Club staff that takes care of the worries FINALLY, GUESTS WILL ALSO BENEFIT and responsibilities FROM MEMBERSHIP that generally come IN THE “ELITE with absentee ALLIANCE EXCHANGE,” A COLLECTIVE OF ownership. Finally, SPECTACULAR guests will also benefit PROPERTIES AROUND THE from membership WORLD, FROM TUSCANY TO TELLURIDE, NEW YORK in the “Elite Alliance TO NAPA VALLEY AND Exchange,” a collective BERMUDA TO BALRILOCHE of spectacular THAT OFFER MEMBERS EXCLUSIVE PRIVILEGES. properties around the world, from Tuscany to Telluride, New York to Napa Valley and Bermuda to Balriloche that offer members exclusive privileges.

And, lest we forget, there is the vineyard. “The vineyard is an important part of our program,” Colberg said. In addition to the rare treat of having a stunningly situated tasting room in your backyard, it brings a unique aesthetic appeal. “The lines can draw your eyes into a distant view, and the beauty of that is hard to capture in words.”

Construction on the homes as well as the infrastructure for a 6,000-square-foot community center is slated to begin later this spring.

For more information on 12 Ridges Vineyard and Residence Club, visit 12Ridges.com.

John Kelly is the managing editor of The Virginia Sportsman. He is a writer and public relations professional based in Charlottesville, Virginia, whose work has appeared in the UVA Arts Magazine, Albemarle Magazine and USA Today, among other publications.

John also works regularly throughout Central Virginia as a singer songwriter and recently released an album of original songs titled “In Between.”

1 2 R I D G E S V I N E YA R D H A S D E V E LO P E D A LOYA L FOLLOWING OF VISITORS FROM AROUND THE C O M M O N W E A LT H A N D B E Y O N D T O E N J O Y I T S S T U N N I N G V I E W S , M O U N TA I N M I C R O C L I M AT E A N D F I R S T - C L A S S H O S P I TA L I T Y.

FRESH OFF ITS F I R S T H A R V E S T, 12 RIDGES WINES A R E T H E R E S U LT OF EXTENSIVE RESEARCH, HARD WORK, AND THE EXPERTISE OF LEADING VIRGINIA V I T I C U LT U R E EXPERTS.

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racing Into a New Era LOCAL SUPPORTERS SAVE AND REFOCUS VIRGINIA’S BELOVED FOXFIELD RACES S T O R Y B Y J O H N K E L LY

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You hear them before you see them.

Feel them too. A sort of mini-tremor beneath your feet.

By the time you look it is breathtaking, colorful silks against the blue sky atop one of nature’s most gifted and majestic athletes. You barely have enough time to raise your phone or camera and whoosh…they are gone, wowing the next group along the rail, and the ones after that.

Steeplechase. If you have never been, then you need to change that. And if you happen to find yourself in Charlottesville, Virginia, on certain weekends in October, or April, then you are in real luck. The Foxfield Races are an institution there, woven into the fabric of the community as a can’tmiss social highlight and a green-coated paradise for horseracing lovers. The races have a rich history, dating back nearly 50 years. But if not for the heroic efforts of a group of locals who fought to prevent the sale of the 179-acre farm to developers with plans for subdivision, there might not have been a future.

John Macfarlane is one of those locals. He calls himself a Foxfield “neighbor,” despite noting that he lives some five miles away. That is the way it is with Foxfield and Charlottesville. It’s special enough to be everyone’s landmark and treasure. Several years back, he was approached by Rex Linville of the Piedmont Environmental Council. There were rumblings of a sale afoot, and Linville was interested in exploring how it might be acquired and put into conservation easement. Macfarlane and his wife Dudley joined fellow supporters John H. Birdsall, Harry Burn, Reynolds Cowles, Landon and Kiwi Hilliard and Jack Sanford, Jr., as plaintiffs in a legal effort to protect the intentions laid out per the wishes of its original owner, the late Mariann de Tejada.

Ultimately, a deal was reached to put the property into conservation easement. “It was,” Mcfarlane said, “a win-win all the way around.”

THE THRILL OF THE STEEPLECHASE. THERE IS NOTHING QUITE LIKE THE EXPERIENCE OF S E E I N G T H E S E M A G N I F I C E N T A T H L E T E S F LY

BY YOU ALONG THE GREEN GRASS OF THE FOXFIELD TRACK. PHOTO BY CAMDEN LITTLETON

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PHOTO BY CAMDEN LITTLETON

Another neighbor, this one right next door, is playing an important role in the revitalization effort from a variety of angles. Zach Miller is a lifelong resident of Albemarle County who runs his family’s Timbercreek Farm, but his connection to the races has to do with more than proximity alone. Miller is a former steeplechase jockey who had some of the biggest moments of his career as a 19-year-old apprentice rider on the Foxfield turf, where he could often get a full book of rides on race day.

“My grandmother had horses that ran here, and I got to meet jockeys when I was a kid,” Miller said. “As a function of that, I got connected with the late Felix Nueshe, who was an important pillar of the horse community here, and he helped launch my career as a rider.” That career was cut short just three years after it began due to injury. Staying around the game was too painful for him, Miller shared, and he turned his attention to production agriculture at Timbercreek, raising pigs and chickens and cows.

Now, a decade later, Miller has come full circle, exploring how thoroughbreds fit into his farm’s plans. Supporting the Foxfield Races as a board member, he said, allows him to give back to many who helped him rise through the ranks as well as give back to his own community. “I love being part of a process that is refocusing our community on connecting with something that has been a part of the fabric in Albemarle County rural life for generations.”

The refocusing effort is aimed at enhancing the Foxfield experience in a way that will introduce its magic to all corners of the local community in addition to continuing to enhance its appeal among the equestrian set. The organization’s tagline is “Racing into a

New Era,” and if this year’s Fall races are any indication, they are off to a blazing start.

The traditional trumpet call that brings the races to order signaled the start of a new day for Foxfield, as more than 4,000 attendees, many of them families, gathered under a bright sky and hot autumn sun to tailgate along the rail. Many were longtime Foxfield veterans, while others were getting their first up-close look at the proceedings. “This year’s October races,” said board member Steve Bowers, “provided a great picture of what the future of Foxfield looks like.”

One of the cornerstones of that future, Bowers said, is a renewed focus on racing. “We are looking to create a race-day experience that is safe and investing in infrastructure that supports a 21st Century event.” The focus on racing is an important distinction. Foxfield, and particularly its spring event, has over the years become known for its party culture more than for the races themselves, and tends to draw a large and often boisterous population of University of Virginia students.

“This year’s October races provided a great picture of what the future of Foxfield looks like.”

T H I S Y E A R ’ S FA L L R AC E S M A R K E D T H E S TA R T O F A N E W E R A AT F OX F I E L D, W I T H M O R E T H A N 4 , 0 0 0 AT T E N D E E S E N J OY I N G A S C E N E T H A T B O A R D M E M B E R S T E V E B O W E R S C A L L E D “A G R E A T P I C T U R E O F W H AT T H E F U T U R E O F F O X F I E L D L O O K S L I K E .”

P H OTO BY S A N JAY S U C H A K .

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PHOTO BY CAMDEN LITTLETON

“As we envision the spring race,” Bowers said, “we are committed to figuring out that puzzle of how the student population fits in, and how the community can increase its footprint in terms of attendance.

Moving away from what we call the ‘red solo cup culture’ is an absolute priority for us.” The focus, he said, is on figuring out how to integrate Foxfield more fully into the community in a meaningful and authentic way. “We want to bring new facets of our community into the racing culture.”

A key part of accomplishing this goal is revamping Foxfield’s charitable partnerships. Instead of working with different charities each year, the board has created lasting partnerships with two organizations: Habitat for Humanity in the fall, and The UVA Children’s Cancer Center in the spring. The group raised $50,000 for Habitat last fall to support its efforts at community building throughout the area. “Habitat for Humanity is about so much more than just home building,” Macfarlane said. “It is a community of people building lives for so many people here. We are excited to help them facilitate their mission, but we are also excited to involve the residents of these communities in our events.”

“I think there is an opportunity with youth from around our area,” Bowers said, “and an opportunity with folks who may never have been in the physical proximity of a horse before—all the way through getting people in the equestrian community even more excited about what we are doing going forward.” These efforts, he added, will be part of a year-round education process. “What we really want to do is to bring the stories of Foxfield to life in a way that builds excitement

for the next race, and the ones to follow.”

One way is to get the equestrian community to further embrace the quality of the racing experience. “Simply put, horsemen put too much time and energy into their horses to run on a subpar course, or a course that is not well maintained,” Miller said. “Over the years, you saw other races eclipse Foxfield, which resulted in less significant races here.”

Miller is more than happy to report that the new leadership at Foxfield is tackling that issue head on. “I can’t stress enough what a tremendous job Jack Sanford has done revitalizing the course. You can’t run the races without the horsemen, and the horsemen won’t come without the track. We still have some distance to travel, but I am confident that the work that Jack is doing will be critical to what the future of Foxfield looks like.”

For more information about The Foxfield Races, visit foxfieldraces.com.

John Kelly is the managing editor of The Virginia Sportsman. He is a writer and public relations professional based in Charlottesville, Virginia, whose work has appeared in the UVA Arts Magazine, Albemarle Magazine and USA Today, among other publications. John also works regularly throughout Central Virginia as a singer songwriter and recently released an album of original songs titled “In Between.”

A N D H E R E T H E Y C O M E ! F OX F I E L D FA N S H AV E L I N E D T H E R A I L S AT F OX F I E L D F O R 5 0 Y E A R S , A N D T H A N K S TO T H E E F F O R T S O F A D E D I C AT E D G R O U P O F C O M M U N I T Y M E M B E R S , THEY’LL BE DOING SO LONG INTO THE FUTURE.

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Wild Trout in the Wild West STORY AND PHOTOS BY JOE SHIELDS

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MONDAY “I’ve been shot once and stabbed twice,” said Chad Wiedeman, driving east from Casper towards Glenrock. “I grew up in Riverton next to the Wind River Reservation. That’s where ‘Wind River’ the movie takes place. I had to fight a lot. Explains why I cage-fight for exercise.”

Well, I’ve certainly had less interesting conversation-starters. It was the perfect way to kick off my first visit to Wyoming and my second fishing trip out West with my Roanoke College buddy Chris Young. I marveled at the expanse of land and bluebird sky. The heart-shaped leaves of the plains cottonwoods had turned their fall shades of yellow and radiated against the backdrop of the Laramie Mountains.

“High plains, sagebrush rollers,” Wiedeman said. “Big, old, fat desert— and big, old, fat trout. We’re going to enhance their dining experience with hopper-droppers—courtesy of Phil Guries.”

Guries and his son Darin rode with Greg Mueller, who guides out of Red Butte Lodge. Guries is an accomplished fly tyer who lives in Kansas. He often makes the 10-hour drive to fish with Mueller. The guides love his flies.

They often trade goods and services for mutual benefit.

We crossed the Big Muddy Bridge to the other side of the North Platte River. Our plan was to float 11 miles, from Cole Creek to the power plant on the last section of fishable water.

Young handed me a cold beer. We examined the streambed and crystal-clear water. I turned over a rock and discovered blue-winged olives. Then I looked up and saw Mueller’s truck trailering his boat across the bridge above us. *** Darin Guries took the first fish, and it was a brute. We didn’t see him catch it, but my cell phone dinged, and an image downloaded that made us jealous.

“That rainbow must be a 20 incher,” I said. “Wild, I guess? Look at those markings.”

“One hundred percent wild,” Wiedeman added, looking at the picture. “There’s trophies in here. The Green River, the Miracle Mile and this stretch of the North Platte—these are great fisheries.”

We drifted and watched both Guries men hook fish. Wiedeman rowed us towards the other boat to see what type of rig Mueller tied.

“Hopper-dropper, same as you,” Mueller said. “But my anglers aren’t standing to cast. This water is too clear for standing, especially when guys wear bright blue jackets.”

GUIDE CHAD WIEDEMAN REMOVES A HOOK FROM A WILD RAINBOW TROUT CAUGHT BY DARIN GURIES ON THE NORTH P L AT T E R I V E R .

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(TOP) JOE SHIELDS HOLDS A WILD RAINBOW DURING A SNOWY DAY O U T S I D E C A S P E R , W Y. (RIGHT) YOUNG DARIN GURIES LOOKS OVER HIS DAD’S SHOULDER AS PHIL GURIES T I E S A F LY AT H O M E I N KANSAS. PHOTO COURTESY OF THE GURIES F A M I LY

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I was the idiot in the bright blue jacket. Young and I both sat after the exchange and immediately caught fish. Young took an 18-inch rainbow with nice coloring. Mine was a smaller fish, but its bright, wild spots covered its whole body, including dorsal and tail fins.

“You want to make sure you put every fish on the reel,” Wiedeman said. “I know Easterners don’t typically use the reel, but you need to out here.”

Moments later, my hopper dipped, and I set the nymph’s hook. I held the line tight and slowly let the slack slide through my fingers as I held the rod tip up. We caught a glimpse of the fish’s throat, which flashed red before the rest of it dove and took off. I let the slack slip. With the line taut, I had the trout on the reel, and it fought like a bastard.

“I think that’s a cutty,” said Young.

The fish worked its way under the boat. I switched sides and let him run. Wiedeman adjusted my drag. I was nervous because I didn’t want to lose my first cutthroat trout.

A few minutes later, the fish took another run at the boat. I guided it in, and Wiedeman scooped it up in the net.

“That’s a cutbow,” he said. “A rainbow and a cutthroat got fresh, and that’s what you get. Pretty wild. I get that way too.”

We laughed, and I admired the distinctive red streak on the underside of the trout’s lower jaw. It was bright red, I thought, even for a hybrid.

“That’s wild,” I said, returning the fish to its native stream. *** Later, I sat next to Phil Guries at Racca’s Pizzeria Napoletana in Casper. Spirits were high—and went down easy. So did the pizza. We celebrated a fine day in the bar watching Monday Night Football. It

didn’t take long for Guries to start talking about his passion.

“I started tying flies in 1971, when I was living in Fort Collins, Colorado,” he said. “Back then, it seemed like many fly tyers were secretive and fearful of competition. Not Dan Beattie. At the time, he was 70 years old, and he was willing to teach me. I’d go down with him to his basement, and we’d listen to the Denver Rockets on the radio and tie flies two or three nights a week. I learned that it’s all about thread control, and I became obsessed fast.”

Guries explained there were no genetic hackles in those days.

The industry and materials have come along way—and so have the prices.

“I love Wyoming,” he continued. “Greg Mueller is my brother, and I’ve fished this river more than 200 times with him. If he says there’s a big trout on a seam of rock bed, it’s there. Trust me. I tie flies for my friend and some of the other guides because it makes me happy.

I used to sell flies, but with a 1099 and all that, it wasn’t worth it. The guides like my flies—and more important—so do trout.”

He chuckled, then told me he ties in his basement, usually with a scotch.

TUESDAY We woke to discover state roads were closed and six inches of snow had fallen. Mueller picked us up at the Airbnb, and we headed to Rabbit Hill, a different put-in on the same stretch of water. Given the cold weather, our guides decided we would go slower to work the good spots.

“I’m not fishing today,” said Guries. “I’ll watch. How about Darin and Joe fish with Chad. Chris, you go with Greg and me. Then we’ll switch things up tomorrow.”

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Snow continued to fall, but I started the day off right by catching a 19-inch rainbow. Guries pulled in one right after mine, a fatty that resembled a football. We each caught a few more, then shifted our attention to the other boat.

Young’s rod was bent, and he had one on the reel that was putting up a hell of a battle. It began snowing harder, but you could still see yellow from the cottonwoods pop through the white snowflakes. Mueller rowed to assist his angler. Dressed for Antarctica, Guries the elder watched from the stern.

Wiedeman maneuvered against the current so we could witness Young wrangle one fine fish. I took pictures, and my friend carefully raised a 20-plus incher from the net. He held the fish reverently over the water, then he did something he rarely does. Young smiled. Then he gently released the fish.

None of us could feel our fingers, so we called it a day and drove home on icy roads.

WEDNESDAY Eleven inches of snow. We drove to meet Mueller and Wiedeman at Morad Park, on the western side of town. When we arrived, we could tell the guides didn’t want to fish. It was frosty and slick. They weren’t smiling, but we talked them into it.

“You’re going to throw streamers,” Mueller said. “And we’re

looking at a one-fish day, at best.”

The put-in was unique. Both guides’ trucks got stuck in the snow and ice. Tow lines were involved. If it hadn’t been for Phil Guries (and assuming his son was spared), the guides could easily have made Young and I disappear.

We threw streamers for several hours, and Mueller worked with me on my casting. I think we all knew the low-pressure system would result in a skunking. And it did.

An hour later, we reached the destination. Young and I watched Wiedeman jerk his boat from the river with his Toyota and pull it up the snowy bank like a sled. He managed to get it on the trailer, but the crazed, shit-eating grin on his face said it all.

“Now that was wild,” Young said, and there were frozen smiles all around.

Joe Shields is the editor in chief of The Virginia Sportsman. He is a writer and marketing executive based in Charlottesville, Virginia. His writing and photography have appeared in The Virginia Sportsman and other publications. He is also an award-winning, gallery-represented artist whose work is found in private collections and galleries.

Whether fly fishing or surfing, drawing or painting, he celebrates sporting life and culture in his narratives and art. ( T O P L E F T ) A F T E R A G O O D F I G H T, C H R I S Y O U N G R E L E A S E S A 2 0 - P LU S R A I N B O W B AC K I N TO T H E N O R T H P L AT T E R I V E R . ( T O P R I G H T ) W E D N E S D A Y R E S U LT E D I N A F R I G I D , O L D FAS HIONED SKUNKING. BUT IT SURE WAS FUN.

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PULLING STRINGS FOR COMMONWEALTH BUCKS

PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTY IMAGES

STORY BY BRYAN HENDRICKS

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ith one of the longest seasons in the country, archery deer hunting is a bountiful opportunity for Virginia hunters in fall and winter.

The early archery deer season runs Oct. 2 - Nov. 1 statewide.

Late archery season dates vary depending on the region. Dates are Nov. 1 - Jan. 1, 2022, west of the Blue Ridge except in certain areas defined by the Virginia Department of Game and Inland Fisheries.

The season runs Dec. 2 - Jan. 1, 2022, in some eastern localities and counties. Consult the 2021-22 Virginia hunting regulations for dates and regulations in your area.

While November is synonymous with firearms deer hunting, pursuing whitetails with archery equipment has distinct advantages.

Unlike firearms, discharging archery equipment is quiet, making it inconspicuous in areas where noise might disturb or unnerve neighbors. Archery hunting also occurs at much closer ranges, and usually from elevated positions, so it is arguably safer than hunting with firearms.

Also, some localities prohibit discharging firearms but allow use of archery equipment.

These elements enable hunters to pursue whitetails in places that protect them from harvest from firearms. These de facto refuge areas allow deer to live to ripe old ages without peril except from motor vehicles. Age, along with food and genetics, is a primary factor in antler development, and middle-aged bucks sport the class of antlers that hunters desire.

While these areas generally are urban locations, they can also be in more sparsely populated suburban and quasi-rural areas.

Wherever they occur, these areas can provide high-quality hunting opportunities for skilled bowhunters.

WHY BOWHUNT NOW?

November is the peak of deer breeding season, also known as the “rut.” The dates vary across the South by about six weeks, but Dixie deer hunters generally associate the rut with—appropriately— Thanksgiving.

The amount of daylight, or photoperiod, triggers breeding activity in whitetails. The rut occurs in a descending gradient from northwest to southeast. For example, the rut occurs during mid-October in eastern coastal regions, and in the first week of November in the Piedmont. It’s around Thanksgiving in the mountains.

Notice that we just said that day length triggers the rut. A day isn’t any longer in the Virginia Tidewater than it is in the mountains, so why do rut peaks vary so much?

Some deer biologists speculate that a genetic or evolutionary component might be involved. Deer were largely extirpated throughout the South by the early 1900s. Southern states replenished their deer herds by importing stock from other parts of the country.

Deer that originated from imported northern stock might retain a

genetic timetable from their ancestors.

Also, deer that live along major rivers typically breed later in the fall. Biologists theorize that they breed late to drop their fawns later in the spring, after floodwaters have receded.

Another theory is that staggered breeding prevents fawns from being born all at the same time. This minimizes predation losses by distributing the number of vulnerable fawns on the ground at an a given time. It’s nature’s way of minimizing loss.

Regardless of the reason, hunters know by heart the peak rut dates in the areas where they hunt. Those are red ink dates on your calendar, and you’ll cancel your own funeral to be in the deer woods on those days. That’s when mature bucks are less cautious and less elusive, and thus more likely to encounter hunters.

ESSENTIAL RECONNAISSANCE

More than with any other style of hunting, scouting is essential to successful bowhunting. When hunting with a centerfire rifle, your margin of error might be 300-500 yards, depending on your proficiency. With a muzzleloading rifle, it might be 200 yards.

Even with the most modern compound bow and accessories, bowhunters prefer shots inside 30 yards. Getting that close to a deer requires intimate knowledge of its daily movements from bedding area to food sources.

During the pre-rut period, it is possible for a hunter to pattern a particular buck. During the rut, on the other hand, bucks mostly follow does. They are preoccupied with breeding, and they largely eschew feeding and other non-breeding activities. Therefore, savvy bowhunters pattern does during the rut.

Remote cameras, or game cameras, reveal daily doe travel patterns. Mature does and their entourages of younger does are creatures of habit. They use the same trails during their daily circuits through feeding and bedding areas. It is assured that a buck will be near a doe as she approaches the peak of her estrus cycle.

Bucks mark their presence by pawing scrapes in the dirt and rubbing their antlers on trees. These are prime areas over which to hang a stand because a buck will eventually work a scrape or a rub in daylight.

BOWHUNTING ‘TRIDENT’

Killing mature bucks in the rut involves a three-prong strategy. Key on does, minimize your presence in the woods and strategically pick your time to hunt hot stands based on prevailing wind.

E A R LY A R C H E R Y D E E R S E A S O N R U N S O C T . 2 - N O V . 1 S TAT E W I D E , A N D L AT E A R C H E R Y S E A S O N DAT E S VA R Y D E P E N D I N G O N T H E R E G I O N B U T R U N T H R O U G H E A R LY WINTER.

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Throughout the South, hunters rely heavily on cultivated food plots that they plant to benefit deer. The main advantage of food plots is that they attract does. Where does congregate, bucks will eventually appear. However, mature bucks seldom enter a food plot in daylight. They hover around the edges and remain concealed in the woods.

Scouting will reveal how bucks approach these areas. Cameras are useful because they minimize a hunter’s physical presence, namely scent. With modern cameras that send images to a smart phone, a hunter need not enter the woods at all except to hunt. This virtually eliminates the risk of compromising a promising hunting location.

Cameras will tell you if a dominant buck is in an area. They also reveal the trails a buck uses between bedding and feeding areas, and at what time he uses them.

Keep in mind that a mature buck usually does not walk the same trail that the does use. The doe trail is a highway. The buck cuts his own trail close to the doe highway. Think of it as a frontage road adjacent to the freeway. Of course, a buck is also a creature of habit.

He, like a doe, uses the same trail repeatedly.

Now that you’ve patterned a buck, don’t blow it by taking unnecessary chances. The wind must be perfect, and the timing must be right. Study weather forecasts zealously and hunt only on days when the wind favors your stand. The wind should blow away from bedding areas and approach routes. Making a mistake will almost ensure that you will not see that buck for the rest of the season.

On your chosen day, you can boost your odds by challenging a buck’s dominance. First, use a bleat call like that of a doe in heat.

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Wait about 5-10 minutes and follow the bleat with a grunt of a lesser buck. A dominant buck often won’t tolerate the presence of a subordinate interloper.

To maximize the element of surprise, hunt in the afternoon and evening. Deer often move in the early morning, and you risk bumping a buck walking to a stand before daylight, Buckner said. It’s easier to slip in unnoticed in the afternoon when deer are bedded down in cover.

If you are interested in arrowing a buck but also want to arrow a doe, it’s better to do it before or after the rut, when bucks are less likely to be following does.

The most crucial aspect of bowhunting is practice. Shoot a lot of targets from the elevation you intend to hunt until precise shot placement is instinctive. Bowhunters are obligated to ensure fast, humane kills. An imprecise shot will negate all the time and effort you spent scouting.

Bryan Hendricks has been the award-winning outdoors editor for the Arkansas Democrat-Gazette for two decades. He has written for nearly 100 magazines and served with the Missouri Department of Conservation and the Oklahoma Department of Wildlife Conservation. His latest book is, “St. Tom’s Cathedral, A Turkey Hunter’s Quest for His Best.” Contact him at bryan.hendricks860@ gmail.com or follow him on Twitter @BryWithaY7 or on Instagram @brywithay7.

D E E R T R A V E L I N D E F I N E D A R E A S , E S P E C I A L LY D U R I N G T H E R U T. T H I S D R A W A L O N G A F E N C E L I N E I S A N AT U R A L F U N N E L .

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The Winter 2021 Issue | WELL FED

VENISON 101 STORY BY HANK SHAW P H O T O S B Y H O L LY A . H E Y S E R

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PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTY IMAGES

“VENISON” IS A CENTURIES-OLD TERM T H AT U S E D TO M E A N A L L W I L D G A M E , B U T I T H A S E V O LV E D N O W A D AY S T O M E A N T H E M E AT F R O M C E R V I D S A N D W I L D B O V I D S : S O T H AT ’ S A L L S P E C I E S O F D E E R , E L K , CARIBOU, MOOSE, AND THE EXOTICS LIKE NILGAI, BLACKBUCK AND ORYX.

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lmost every day of my life, I get people asking me how to cook venison. Hunters, yes, but also the legion of people who’ve been given deer meat and have only a rough idea about how to cook it.

What follows is a comprehensive overview geared toward beginners, but with enough tips and tricks to help even long-time wild game cooks.

Let’s start with some basics. What is venison, anyway? As funny as it might sound to some of you, it’s a legit question I get asked a lot.

“Venison” is a centuries-old term that used to mean all wild game, but it has evolved nowadays to mean the meat from cervids and wild bovids: So that’s all species of deer, elk, caribou, moose, and the exotics like nilgai, blackbuck and oryx.

Pronghorn antelope, which is neither a cervid nor a bovid, also falls under the term venison. So do wild sheep and goats. Bison, wild or not, tends to not be lumped in there by some, and there aren’t enough people who’ve eaten musk ox to really put it in either box — but personally I’d call it venison.

So one thing you will notice about all these animals is that venison is red meat. Obvious to any hunter, but if you’d never actually seen venison you might not know.

VENISON AND FOOD SAFETY

One cool thing about venison is that yes, you can eat it not only rare, but raw. While researching my venison cookbook Buck, Buck, Moose, I did an extensive search of food poisoning studies looking for cases involving venison, and I found very few over the past several decades.

It is not impossible to get a food-borne illness from raw or undercooked venison, but it is very rare. There have been a few isolated cases of listeria, likely involving poor handling of the meat, and a few of e. coli poisoning, which were linked to contact between the deer’s feces and meat that was subsequently undercooked.

Most serious but even rarer are the very few cases where eaters of raw or undercooked venison contracted toxoplasmosis. Solution?

Freeze before eating rare or raw. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, freezing kills toxoplasmosis.

So once your deer meat has been frozen, you are free to make dishes like venison tartare or any backstrap recipe where you cook the meat rare.

IS VENISON HEALTHY?

Short version: Yes. Deer meat and other forms of venison are naturally low in fat, and the fat that is there is high in omega-3 fatty acids. I wrote a full article on deer fat here, so I won’t go into the details too much here.

Exact nutrition details on wild foods is a fraught affair, since you have variation in species, size and diet. So any charts or graphs you see on other sites should be taken with a grain of salt.

H A N K S H AW H A S A LOT O F V E N I S O N R E C I P E S T H AT W O R K WELL WITH A CROCK POT OR SLOW COOKER, BUT HIS POLISH V E N I S O N P O T R O A S T I S A C T U A L LY D E S I G N E D F O R O N E . F O R T H E R E C I P E , V I S I T H O N E ST- F O O D. N E T

Because venison is so low in fat, and because it is in general denser than farmed analogs like beef or lamb — deer, elk and such are athletes living by their wits, unlike most farm animals — venison will have more vitamins, protein and minerals than an equal weight of, say, beef.

Other than nutritional information, you should know about Chronic Wasting Disease, which can affect all cervids, so that means deer, elk, moose, caribou. Pronghorn are unaffected. I wrote a survey of the state of the research on CWD and humans in 2019, and it holds up pretty well today.

Short version: Chronic wasting disease does not affect humans.

But similar prion maladies have jumped species barriers in the past, and no one wants to be Patient Zero.

HOW TO COOK VENISON: BASICS

OK, let’s look at cooking venison now.

Number one rule, the Prime Directive: You can always cook venison more. It is impossible to uncook something. This of course holds true for all things. To that end, know that because venison has so little fat — and no internal marbling — it gets hot and cools down much faster than fatty beef. Or even lean beef.

Fat is an insurance policy against inexpert cooking. Venison leaves you without that safety net, to mix metaphors. This is why it’s vital to err by cooking too little, if you are going to err. It’s also why you almost always want to start with room temperature meat.

Second rule, or rather observation: Inexperienced cooks cook the tender parts of venison (tenderloin, backstrap, flat iron steak, etc.) too much, and the tough parts too little.

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Third rule, which has exceptions: The front of the animal is tougher than the back end of the animal. Let me unpack that a bit.

The front of a deer or similar creature features the shoulders, front shanks, neck, head and tongue. With the exception of the aforementioned flat iron steak, and the “whistlers” on a large animal like an elk or moose or bison (these are the long, skinny muscles that cover the animal’s trachea) every part of this requires long, slow cooking.

Even the front part of the backstrap isn’t the best part. But it will still be fairly tender. Now the hind end has the hind legs, obviously, most of the backstrap, the tenderloins and the hind shanks.

Only the hind shanks are tough and gnarly. The hind leg, separated into single muscle roasts, can be served medium-rare, and is an excellent candidate for smoking like a roast beef or tri-tip.

PHOTO COURTESY OF SHUTTEERSTOCK

VENISON CUTS

OK, this one can get weird, since butchering a deer is a very personal act, as idiosyncratic as it gets. Bottom line: You butcher a deer or elk or whatever based on how you are going to eat it. Don’t let anyone tell you otherwise.

I go into serious detail on how to butcher a deer in my book, and you’ll have to get a copy to get those details. (Hey, I gotta make a living somehow!)

That said, let me start with the venison cuts most people get back from a processor or butcher. Those cuts range from useful to an abomination.

Actually, most processors cut venison poorly… if it’s even your deer you get back. Yes, that can happen. Most processors are slammed with tons of animals all at the same time, especially in the Midwest where deer seasons are short and a zillion people are out hunting all at the same time. Lookin’ at you, Pennsylvania and Michigan. And the $100 to process your deer isn’t very much.

So they have their way. Not a fan. Here’s why.

Medallions of backstrap. Not inherently terrible, but way harder to cook perfectly, compared to cooking lengths of backstrap, which you then slice into medallions once cooked. That method is prettier, too, since you get to see the lovely pink interior.

Shoulder “roasts.” Um, not roasts unless you want to make venison pot roast, which is perfectly great. But don’t open up the packet thinking you can cook this medium-rare.

The Dreaded Leg “Steak.” I hate this cut with the heat of 10,000 suns. It should be outlawed. If you’re not familiar, you get this abomination when some dude with a band saw blasts through your deer’s hind leg crosswise, bone and all.

What results might at first glance look like a steak, but it’s really a half-dozen muscle groups, sliced against the grain, with a bone in the center. Those muscle groups are often just barely held together by connective tissue. So when you cook this war crime of a cut, two things happen: The weak connective tissue separates, so your “steak” falls apart, and the strong connective silverskin contracts, warping each segment of the so-called steak horribly. I could go on, but I feel my eyelids getting hot.

S H AW H AS A VA R I E T Y O F V E N I S O N M A R I N A D E S H E R E .

H I S A L L-T I M E FAV O R I T E D I S H T H AT U S E S T H E M ? V E N I S O N A R R A C H E R A TA C O S — Y E P, T H AT ’ S S K I R T S T E A K .

Finally, you will get metric buttloads of ground venison, ideally cut with the pork fat or beef fat you asked for, but sometimes not. That’s right, most processors will grind shanks, flanks, rib meat, neck and much of the shoulder. It’s just how they do things.

MY VENISON CUTS

Clearly you can see I prefer doing things myself. Here’s a rundown on the venison cuts I normally do. Again, diagrams and photos galore are in my book.

Short version: I do what’s called seam butchery. The seams are the connective tissues between muscles. All you need to do is disassemble the animal the way God assembled it. I use a pocket knife. A sharp pocket knife, but a pocket knife nonetheless.

I tell you this because many people will try to sell you weirdly specialized or incredibly expensive knives. They are not needed. You do however need whatever knife you have to be sharp. I have a whole article on deer processing tools here, if you want to get into detail.

Quarters come off first, often in the field. On small deer and pronghorn, I leave the bone-in the neck roast unless I am in a CWD area, in which case I debone it. Larger animal necks I always debone.

I keep the tongue, heart (unless I blasted it, which happens), kidneys and, on young animals, the liver. I do not keep the livers of old animals, because even though they have probably not abused theirs like I have mine, they are still very, very strong tasting.

If I am around a ranch, I use a saw and saw off ribs, especially on bovids like nilgai, bison or oryx, Their fat is tasty, not waxy, so “beef” short ribs with these animals is mad crazy delicious.

I almost always remove the backstrap and tenderloin, as opposed to cutting chops. That one’s on me. Just my own idiosyncracies. But,

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if you do cut chops, cut them thick, like two ribs on a deer — or cut a pretty rack. Single-bone chops should only be from large animals. No one likes a tiny chop. This is America.

All shanks get removed whole. I section large ones for ossobuco.

A Sawzall introduces a certain Goodfellas fun to the party, but isn’t strictly needed.

Hind legs get separated muscle by muscle. You can do most of this with your fingers after removing the femur, which you can cross cut for marrow bones. Again, do this with bovids fer sher.

Shoulder gets kept whole on little deer for things like braised shoulder, and on large animals I will cut a flat iron steak, then use the rest for things like venison barbacoa.

VENISON COOKING METHODS

I am racking my brain trying to find a method for cooking venison that I don’t like… …OK, found one: Poaching. The idea of a venison steak or really any red meat gently poached in wine or water is pretty revolting. But then I know the difference between poaching and braising.

I tell you this because yeah, you can pretty much do anything to cook venison cuts: Roasting, frying, grilling, smoking, braising, stewing, even, as we’ve already covered, raw.

1. Thin cuts you want to remain pink should begin cooking very cold. I will actually bread my chicken-fried venison, let it set in the fridge a while, then even freeze it for 20 minutes before cooking.

That keeps the center pink while you get that golden brown. Trippy, eh? But it works.

2. Like smoke rings? And who doesn’t? Start smoking venison cold. This is because a smoke ring stops developing at around 140°F, so the longer the meat takes to get there, the better the ring.

3. Thick cuts and lengths of backstrap must start at room temperature, unless you are reverse searing. This promotes even cooking and prevents the weird black-and-blue effect that, inexplicably, some people like.

4. It Will Submit. I don’t care how old your moose was, it will get tender. Eventually. I’ve had bull elk pot roasts take 5 hours, but they eventually did get tender. Time is your friend. When in doubt, make a pot roast or braise the day before you need to impress someone.

5. Seasonings (except salt) hate high heat. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve eaten someone’s “special spice rub” that tasted like an ashtray because he (and it’s always a he) put it on the grill over a raging fire. Paprika gets especially bitter when burnt. So please, cook your backstrap with only salt and fire. Then, the moment it comes off the heat, roll it in your rub and the let it rest. You’re welcome.

6. All venison Wobbly Bits taste good grilled over a smoky fire, chopped, then served in a tortilla with salsa. Period. This is a great way to introduce people to offal. Know that if you are going to make tongue tacos, they do need to be braised tender before they hit the fire.

7. A word on venison marinades. I use them, but in a limited way because they don’t penetrate to the center of all but the thinnest cuts. But, I do use them for this, and I have a variety of venison

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marinades here. My all-time favorite dish that uses them? Venison arrachera tacos — yep, that’s skirt steak.

FINAL WORDS

A few final thoughts on how to cook venison. It’s a journey. I’ve been seriously cooking deer and other types of venison for more than 20 years, and I still learn things each season. Don’t beat yourself up if you mess something up.

To that end, I’ll leave you with some ideas to fix mistakes, or make use of botched attempts. First, I’ll reiterate that you can always cook something more. So most of my fixes are for overcooked things.

You made a venison sausage that didn’t bind, so when you eat it the meat crumbles? Keep it in links for now, but use it out of the casings for venison chili, or venison lasagna, or a venison ragu. All of these are good uses for ground venison with no added fat. You overcooked the backstrap? Chop it small, toss it with salsa, reheat gently and put it in tacos. Or the aforementioned chili, etc.

The roast was too tough? Keep cooking it until it falls apart. But it’s too dry! Aha! Now shred this hammered roast. Add pork lard or some other fat that makes you smile in a frying pan, let it get hot, then spread the shredded roast meat out and sear it on one side. It’s amazing over rice, in a tortilla, or in a sandwich.

I could go on, but you get the point. I hope this helps you at least a little.

TIME IS ALL SHAW'S VENISON RIBS RECIPE ASKS OF YOU. VENISON RIBS CAN REQUIRE A LONG WHILE TO GET TENDER, S O M E T I M E S U P TO 4 H O U R S I F YO U H AV E A N O L D B U L L O R B U C K . B U T T H E Y W I L L , E V E N T U A L LY , A N D T H A T L O N G C O O K I N G T I M E I N F U S E S T H E M W I T H S O M U C H F L AVO R YO U ’ L L WO N D E R W H Y YO U H AV E N ’ T D O N E T H I S B E F O R E .

P H O T O B Y H O L LY A . H E Y S E R

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The Winter 2021 Issue | GREAT ESCAPE

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SOUTHERN SNOW A Winter Wonderland in Tucker County, W.Va. STORY BY ELLEN KANZINGER | PHOTOS BY BRIAN SARFINO

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hen John Bright decided to establish the Purple Fiddle back in the early 2000s, he was attracted to the variety in landscapes and the potential to bring new people to the Canaan Valley. Over the last 20 years, the Purple Fiddle has become known as much for its sounds as its sights, drawing top-notch musicians from San Francisco, Boston, Philadelphia, Asheville, Nashville and around the world to play an eclectic mix that includes bluegrass, blues, reggae, traditional and, as they like to say, the “unpigeonholeable.

“The focus has always been on original music—bands that write and perform their own songs,” Bright said.

From the wonders of Monongahela National Forest and snowcovered slopes of the valley to the towns of Thomas, Davis and Parsons, there are new sights, sounds and tastes to experience around every bend during winter in Tucker County.

“The most beautiful spots in West Virginia are within half an hour’s drive to here,” Bright added. “It seemed destined to have a lot of growth in the future with outdoor enthusiasts.”

Where to Wander

Whether it’s snowshoeing through Blackwater Falls State Park, cross country-skiing at White Grass, gliding down the slopes at Timberline Mountain or tubing at Canaan Valley Resort, your winter pleasure is always right around the corner here. And getting there is more than half the fun thanks to a dazzling landscape filled with tumbling waterfalls, quiet mountain peaks and snow-covered trees.

In the warmer months, spend your days on the trails and waters of Monongahela National Forest. Grab your gear and head to Red Run, a fly fishing-only stream, or the Blackwater River as you cast a line for native trout. Or perhaps, once the snow clears, you might want to take your best shot at Canaan Valley, whether on the sporting-clay range of the championship golf course.

The beauty is not confined to the natural wonders in this heavenly THERE IS PLENTY OF FUN TO BE HAD WITH SKIING, S N O W B OA R D I N G A N D T U B I N G AT C A N A A N VA L L E Y R E S O R T A N D T I M B E R L I N E M O U N TA I N .

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slice of West Virginia – the visual arts scene offers up wonders of its own thanks to a collection of galleries including Bloom, The White Room, and WV Highlands Artisans Gallery, which highlights local and regional artists working in a variety of mediums.

“The creative backbone of this community is really vital right now,” Bright said. “The amount of talent that’s here is just mind-boggling. It’s quite a creative oasis.”

Where to Eat

Head over to Tip Top Coffee Bar for specialty coffee drinks and baked goods that will give you that jump-start you need in the morning. Kick back and relax at the end of the day with a pizza from Sirianni’s, plus craft beers from Stumptown Ales or Mountain State Brewing Co. For a southern-inspired dining experience, Farm Up Table is always serving up something fresh and delicious to fit the season.

Where to Sleep

If you want to stay close to the action, book one of the 160 lodge rooms, 23 cabins or 34 campsites available at Canaan Valley Resort, where find easy access to a wealth of outdoor activities year-round, plus several on-site restaurants.

Looking for a cozy place to make your home base for a few days? Several bed and breakfasts in the area offer an idyllic setting for a peaceful getaway. At the Cooper House in the heart of Thomas, you’ll find each room styled in a distinctive manner just steps from the Blackwater Canyon Trail and the North Fork of the Blackwater River. For a little more solitude, Laurel River Club BnB is a quiet spot with easy access to swimming and fishing on the Dry Fork and Cheat rivers.

(TOP) WALK THROUGH THE TOWN OF THOMAS FOR ART G A L L E R I E S , R E S TAU R A N T S , A N D M O R E . ( B OT TO M ) V I E W T H E C A S C A D I N G FA L L S AT B L A C K WAT E R FA L L S S TAT E PA R K .

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T H E V I R G I N I A S P O R T S M A N | WINTER 2021

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401 Park Street Charlottesville, VA 22902

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IMMACULATE c. 1856 RESIDENCE ON 142 ACRES IN THE HEART OF THE GREEN SPRINGS HISTORIC DISTRICT

3535 E. JACK JOUETT ROAD • $4,250,000 Set on 142 pristine, rolling acres of fields bordered by hardwoods and cedars, Oakleigh, c. 1856 is an absolutely storybook Antebellum offering. Over the last 30 years the current owners have painstakingly restored the main residence and several original dependencies. While respecting the home’s history and scale, modern luxuries have been seamlessly integrated. Incredible natural light, 11 foot ceilings, 7 working fireplaces, triple hung, floor-to-ceiling windows and original plaster trim work are just a few of the residence’s charm. Completing the picture are a barn for horses or livestock, original smokehouse, charming chicken coop and large garage and/or equipment storage structure. 2 ponds as well as a stream. Total tranquility 25 minutes from Charlottesville & 40 minutes from Richmond.

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