Blue Ridge Outdoors April 2015

APRIL 2015

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CONTENTS April 2015 DEPARTMENTS

FEATURES

11 EDITOR’S NOTE

25 Top Trout Hikes

A big showing for Big Ivy leads to big changes in forest management.

Fly fishing experts select their favorite hike-and-fish spots in Southern Appalachia.

12 FLASHPOINT A.T. speed record holder Jennifer Pharr Davis argues that the maledominated outdoor industry needs to change.

14 BRAND NEW OLD-TIME Why do lumbersexuals, craft brewers, and mountain musicians long for the past? asks bestselling author Wiley Cash.

17 QUICK HITS The A.T. Grows • Underground bike park • Marathon winner sleeps in his truck

39 The Ragged Edge Why do paddlers dance with danger?

Do they ever push too far? And is the juice worth the squeeze? Jess Daddio chases down answers from gonzo first-descent kayakers.

47 Cherokee Trails Hike in the footsteps of the first people. Cherokee historian and expert Lamar Marshall shares stories and trails held sacred by the Native Americans who first wandered these woods.

65 Long Road Back 19 THE DIRT Whitewater surfing The biggest four letters in the outdoors •

A potentially career-ending injury becomes the best thing that ever happens to elite paddler Chris Gragtmans.

69 THE GOODS Gonzo kayaker Pat Keller picks his favorite paddling gear.

71 THEN & NOW From Demshitz to the Brown Claw, paddling trends have evolved with the personalities that guide the sport.

74 TRAIL MIX Jedd Ferris picks the 20 best new bands.

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Why do you need adventure?

/ It’s in my blood. From my early days of riding motocross to my mountain biking adventures today, I’m unhappy without adventure.

SAL RUIBAL

/ I risk, therefore I am.

/ Living the bold life I crave requires opening my heart to possibilities, experiencing failure and loss with the same grace as triumph and love.

KY DE L ANE Y

PR ESID EN T

BLAKE DEMASO

ED ITOR IN CH IEF

WILL HARLAN

will@blueridgeoutdoors.com PU B LISH ER

LEAH WOODY

leah@blueridgeoutdoors.com ART D IR EC TOR

MEGAN JORDAN

megan@blueridgeoutdoors.com

Editorial & Production JEDD FERRIS

SEN IOR ED ITOR

jedd@blueridgeoutdoors.com TR AVEL ED ITOR

JESS DADDIO

jess@blueridgeoutdoors.com SEN IOR D ESIG N ER

LAUREN WALKER

lauren@blueridgeoutdoors.com

C ON TRIBUTORS TRAVIS HALL, CHRIS GRAGTMANS, SKIP BROWN, GRAHAM AVERILL, KY DELANEY, CHARLI KERNS, DAVE STALLARD

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Asheville, N.C. Office (828) 225-0868 SEN IOR AC C OU N T EXEC UTIVE

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/ The Boy Scouts’ motto is: be prepared. It’s not to avoid risk or danger, but to be ready for all possible outcomes.

AC C OU N T EXECUTIVE / D IG ITA L PU B LISH ER

RANDY J OHNSON / Adventure is the skill to meet the backcountry on its own terms and return safe. Egotripping for your Go-Pro has tragedy written all over it.

AC C OU N T EXEC UTIVE

BE RNARD ADELS B ERGER

/ The bigger you go, the bigger the risk. It’s those limits being pushed that makes the thrill-seeker feel alive. It’s a reality check when you get hurt, though.

BE TT INA F REESE

DUSTY ALLISON

dusty@blueridgeoutdoors.com

Charlottesville, Va. Office (434) 817-2755

Thanks for the reminder of Jay Hardwig’s Fifth Grade Presidential Fitness story in your 20th anniversary issue. As an aging athlete, I could relate to his experiences trying to keep up with the young’uns.

Ultimately, I think that’s what we spend most of our adult lives doing.

—Tray Monteleone, Richmond, Va. SEVEN BILLION AND COUNTING Your story on two decades of environmental triumphs and tragedies overlooked the obvious: the region’s population explosion. All of the hardwon environmental successes are dwarfed by the sheer impact of the additional millions of people in the South.

—Thomas Cronin, Washington, D.C. GMO ATHLETES Stephanie Pearson’s predictions for the next 20 years of adventure were spot-on. I’d suggest one more: gene therapies will create superathletes capable of smashing every amazing record and FKT we admire today.

—Katie Blumenthal, Atlanta, Ga. Beer and gear: two of my favorite things at one festival. @GoOutAndPlay you know how to do it right. @MyBurnieGrill

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ON LIN E D IREC TOR

/ It makes me completely mindful of the small, simple details, since every handhold, footfall, and paddle stroke has a direct correlation to what is about to unfold.

DUSTY AL L ISON

/ You can’t truly love something until you’ve experienced it in its entirety, through both the highlights and the heartbreaks.

Anything else is just lust.

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EDITOR’S LETTER

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I LIKE BIG BUTT

THE FIGHT TO SAVE WILD FORESTS

B

ig Butt is a 5,980-foot summit in Big Ivy, a section of Pisgah that’s home to the second-most oldgrowth forest and rare wildlife in the region. It’s a powerful place of big trees and big water.

Unfortunately, Big Butt and nearly all of Big Ivy’s 13,980 acres may soon be open to logging.

Big Ivy is a mountain biking mecca, fly fishing oasis, trail running hotspot, climbing paradise, and a hiker’s wet dream: cascades, creeks, and swimming holes abound in Big Ivy, including 70-foot Douglas Falls.

Big Ivy also includes classic outdoor destinations like Craggy Gardens, the Blue Ridge Parkway, and the Mountains to Sea Trail. Big Ivy’s panoramic vistas, hiking and mountain biking trails, climbing rocks, and waterfalls are some of the most beloved in the Blue Ridge.

Why is such a popular and precious recreation spot being targeted for logging? Simply put: We are being outshouted.

The timber industry, along with a small but vocal faction of deer and grouse hunters, want a lot more logging in national forests. They have been vocal in Forest Service planning sessions. Most of us recreation lovers have been too busy or blissed out to attend.

A handful of locals have also been clamoring to cut Big Ivy, mistakenly thinking that logging will bring jobs. At best, logging would offer only a few short-term jobs and leave behind a scarred legacy.

The best source of jobs for this region will not come from cutting old-growth forests, marring our scenic vistas, and polluting our pristine mountain streams.

Tourism and recreation are the biggest job creators in the

photo by STEPHEN MCBRIDE

Blue Ridge today. Protecting our forests from short-term, short-sighted logging is the best hope for long-term prosperity.

In the Pisgah Ranger District last year, recreation provided over five times more revenue than logging.

Until recently, we outdoor enthusiasts have been too busy enjoying our forests to speak up for them. As a result, the Forest Service issued a timber industry-friendly proposal late last year that would have opened over 70 percent of Big Ivy and Pisgah-Nantahala National Forest lands to commercial logging.

Thankfully, outdoor enthusiasts rallied. Hikers turned out in droves to protest proposed logging on Bluff Mountain near Hot Springs. And in February, over 300 outdoor enthusiasts and conservationists turned out at a community meeting with the Forest Service in an overwhelming show of support for protecting Big Ivy’s forest.

The next day, the Forest Service called for a do-over. They plan to scrap their original Pisgah-Nantahala proposal and start over.

We’ve been given a second chance. Let’s not miss this opportunity to speak for the trees and the trails. One million acres of public lands depend on our voices being heard.

WILL H AR LA N

will@blueridgeoutdoors.com SPEAK UP FOR BIG BUTT!

Find the schedule of Pisgah-Nantahala Forest meetings or send a letter to the Forest Service at NCplanrevision@fs.fed.us Help protect Big Ivy’s forest at friendsofbigivy.org

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GENDER GAP

FEMALE ADVENTURERS FIGHT FOR EQUALITY

by JENNIFER PHARR DAVIS Hiking makes me feel beautiful, confident, self-reliant and free. So why do I feel the exact opposite as a female athlete and business professional in the outdoor industry?

Anna Levesque, a professional paddler and owner of Girls at Play, has also noted the male culture of the outdoor scene. “The outdoor industry has traditionally been male dominated, and that lends itself to a culture in which acting and thinking like a man is the dominant paradigm.”

Perhaps this male-dominated paradigm is most evident at Outdoor Retailer, a bi-annual national convention that brings together outdoor companies, media outlets, nonprofits, athletes, and enthusiasts.

As an attendee I have memories of wading through the throng of beards, trucker hats, and flannel shirts while scanning the horizon and hoping to find another female athlete. I would love to come across a female buyer who isn’t solely responsible for selecting “cute” lifestyle apparel. And would it be impossible to find one booth where there is actually a female CEO as opposed to the endless number of hostesses who schedule meetings and hand out M&Ms? At the trade show several years ago, I recall rounding a turn to find a group of women—not athletes, buyers, or CEOs—but models clad in bikinis and crampons. As I stood behind a wall of ogling males, I watched the guy in front of me clink his craft brew against his neighbor’s bottle. “This is almost as good as the demonstration with those chicks in twopieces doing yoga on stand up paddleboards.”

I am not a prude or down on the modeling industry; I just would like to see equal standards. “I see women getting recognition because they pose half naked,” says Levesque. “It would be more egalitarian if men were expected to do the same.” Hear that, fellas? Anytime there are bikinis, we expect banana hammocks, too!

But the gender discrepancy isn’t just at outdoor conventions. World class climber and instructor Lisa Rands recalls that, for many years, prize money at competitions was not equal for male and female winners. Now, thanks to women like Lisa, equal prize money is the climbing industry standard.

But that doesn’t mean that women receive equal treatment. There are far more sponsorship opportunities for men. Anna Levesque says that once she contacted a paddling company about sponsorship, and they said they weren’t taking on anyone new. A week later, her husband got an email from them asking him to be on their team.

Sometimes being married to someone in the industry makes the gender difference that much more stark. Anne Lundblad is a runner who competed at an international level while owning a running store in 12

B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S / A P R I L 2 01 5

Asheville and raising a daughter. Her husband Mark is also an elite runner.

She noted that after races, it’s not uncommon for blogs and magazine features to give the men’s results the headline while women’s results are an afterthought. The industry gender gap became more of a gender chasm once she had a child. “My husband and I were both running and competing, but I was the only one who had to answer work-life balance questions from the media. I’ve also observed moms getting criticized for the adventures they pursued while dads got praised for similar undertakings.”

Personally, I’ll never forget the joy of being in the hospital clad in a bare-butt gown and nursing my newborn—when I learned that I’d been dropped by my biggest sponsor. “Really?!” I thought. “You’re telling a physically drained, sleep deprived, hormonally whacked-out woman that she’s been cut? Couldn’t this have waited a week?”

Okay, after that rant, it’s important to highlight that none of the women I interviewed came off as

indignant or resentful. Anna, Lisa, and Anne all made me see that navigating the outdoor industry is a lot like navigating a river, rock wall, or trail. If there’s an obstacle in your path, it’s up to you to find a way around it. These women haven’t let inequalities prevent them from starting companies or performing at the highest level; instead they’ve gained grace and wisdom by overcoming barriers.

The future of the outdoor industry is not going to be found by marketing to the same group of lumbersexual men in mountain towns. It’s going to be found by expanding its reach to women, minorities, and individuals of all body shapes and sizes. Anna, Lisa, and Anne have already found success by doing that, more individuals are signing on, and eventually the industry will catch up with what these talented and intelligent women are doing.

Jennifer Pharr Davis, long distance hiker and author, currently holds the unofficial record for the fastest thru hike of the Appalachian Trail. Jennifer is the owner and founder of Blue Ridge Hiking Company (BlueRidgeHikingCo.com)

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“The river is empowering in so many ways. It’s a metaphor for life: Look where you want to go, trust yourself. Do something that scares you, allow yourself to jump and the net will appear and, of course, go with the flow.”

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—Anna Levesque

“Don’t let your frustrations get the best of you. Turn your frustrations into motivation.”

—Lisa Rands

“When you’re in the woods, you’re not comparing yourself to anyone. You’re not trying to be better, prettier, smarter. It’s just you and the wild and you are learning what makes you, you. And you learn to value your body for what it can do, for its potential, rather than its looks.”

—Anne Lundblad

“The trail is there for everyone at every phase of life.”

—Jennifer Pharr Davis

A P R I L 2 01 5 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

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BRAND NEW OLD-TIME THE RISE OF THE LUMBERSEXUAL

by WILEY CASH

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B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S / A P R I L 2 01 5

T

wo framed, black and white photos hang on my office wall. In one, my paternal grandfather, Odus Wiley Cash, kneels with his two brothers, Freeman and Muriel, in front of their parents’ home in the Appalachian foothills of Cleveland County, North Carolina. The photo was taken in the 1930s when my grandfather was in his early twenties. In the other photo, this one taken in 1923, a group of ruddy-faced farmers and smirking farm boys pose alongside stoic women of all ages on the wide, dusty steps of an old house not far from where the photo of my grandfather was taken.

My paternal grandmother, Lucille Adeline Edwards, is a newborn baby asleep in her mother’s arms. When I’m writing at my desk, I often gaze across my office and consider my grandparents’ lives and the lives of their families.

My first novel, A Land More Kind Than Home, is set primarily in 1986, but it regularly flashes back to rural life in pre-World War I Appalachia, drawing heavily from the region’s folklore, religion, and isolation. I’m currently at work on a novel about a 1929 textile mill strike in my hometown of Gastonia, North Carolina. Both novels are populated by characters who look, speak, and live like the people in those framed photos looked, spoke, and lived. For some reason, I’m drawn to portray the people of that era much more than I’m drawn to portray my own life or the lives of my parents, and I’m not the only one who’s inspired by the Depression Era South. A wave of twenty-, thirty-, and forty-somethings – from writers and musicians to craft brewers – are looking back to old-time practices to garner the inspiration to move forward.

To get a historical perspective on the phenomenon, I reached out to Dr. Dan Pierce, Professor of History at the University of North Carolina-Asheville, and asked him why so many people of my generation are returning to traditional ways of viewing and portraying the world.

“One reason to reach for the past is because you think it was so much simpler,” Pierce said. “There’s also the issue of authenticity: We want to say this is the

real thing.”

Pierce pointed out the recent explosion of craft moonshine as an example.

“In Asheville, people expect authentic moonshine to be organic,” he said. “Well, most of the moonshine that was made over the last hundred years was vile stuff. They were running it through car radiators, putting whatever they could put in it to make it look like it was higher proof, but a lot of it was poisonous.”

Pierce went on to say that moonshining is “the hipster thing to do in Brooklyn,” and then he introduced me to a term I’d never heard: lumbersexual.

“Apparently it’s a new way for men to act,” he said.

“Wear flannel, grow a beard, pretend to be outdoorsy in a hipster way.”

I was too embarrassed to confess that he’d just described me to a T. Acting. Is that what I do when I sit down to write about the generations before mine? Am I searching for authenticity while fetishizing an idyllic past that never existed? With these questions in mind, I reached out to two friends I consider luminaries in their respective fields and people who rely heavily on history: Amy Greene, bestselling novelist and author of Bloodroot and Long Man, and Ketch Secor, fiddler, raconteur, and front-man for the Grammy Award winning band Old Crow Medicine Show.

For Greene, whose most recent novel is about a small town that is flooded by the Tennessee Valley Authority in 1936, writing about the past is an attempt to preserve a history that is always on the verge of being lost.

“Your first compulsion to tell the story is something you’re not sure of,” Greene said, “but when I write I think about my grandparents: people who lived quiet lives and passed away without anyone knowing their names. The people I come from are people who worked hard and died, and it haunts me.

East Tennessee has shaped me because of the tradition and the oral history that have been passed down.

It’s almost as if I can’t help but write about the past because I view everything through that lens.”

LEFT: LUCILLE ADELINE EDWARDS-CASH IS THE NEWBORN ON THE FRONT ROW. RIGHT: ODUS WILEY CASH KNEELS IN THE FAR RIGHT.

Like Greene, Secor can speak to the pull of both the region and its past, even when neither is necessarily your own.

“If you live around east Tennessee or where all these Appalachian states come together then you’re exposed to a pathway where tradition passes from generation to generation. I didn’t come from that region, but I moved there because I was inspired by the music,” he said. “Something came into my being that made me feel like a link in that chain.”

While he embraces the pull history has on our generation, Secor is skeptical of those who scour the past in search of authenticity.

“We’re surrounded by mass production,” he said.

“So we tell ourselves, ‘There are too many Targets and too many Wal-Marts, and they make everything feel the same.’ Then we hang out in Asheville and buy hand-knitted clothing for our children because we don’t want to go to Target anymore, but Target is right next door to the strip mall where they sell hand-knitted athletic tracksuits for our kids. Is it a true revival of folklife pathways, or is it a charade that makes everybody feel better about the fact that folklife pathways may be gone?”

Perhaps that’s what compels me to stare at those old family photos when I sit down to write: the fear that the past may be gone and forgotten, buried by the Tennessee Valley Authority, mass marketed next door to Target, covered over by flannel and facial hair.

My great-grandparents were farmers. My grandparents fled the farms for life in the mills. My parents were both born in mill villages and saw the suburbs as their salvation. But I’m still stuck in the suburbs, and, as an artist, it feels as if the only sure step I can take is the one that takes me back.

Wiley Cash is the national bestselling author of This Dark Road to Mercy and A Land More Kind Than Home.

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BEYOND THE BLUE RIDGE

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NEW 10 0-M ILE TR A IL R EC OR D

SHORTS

Huntsville, Texas Ultrarunner Nicole Struder set a new women’s North American 100-mile trail record at the recent Rocky Raccoon 100 in Texas. Struder’s time of 14:22 significantly bested runner Traci Falbo’s previous record of 14:45, and the benchmark effort also broke the Rocky Raccoon women’s course record by 35 minutes. Struder, who lives in Dallas, told Runner’s World she attributed the impressive time to being able to train on terrain similar to the course in her home city. The big win also gave Struder the 2015 USA Track & Field 100-mile championship title.

BLUE RIDGE BRIEFS

by JEDD FERRIS NEW U N D E RG RO U N D B I KE PARK

Louisville, Ky. Back in February the world’s first underground bike park opened in Louisville, Ky. Appropriately named the Mega Underground Bike Park, the subterranean dirt maze features 320,000 square feet of space for riding over 45 trails.

Built 100 feet below ground in a former limestone cavern, the park is part of Louisville’s Mega Cavern, which holds 17 miles of pathways below the city and also has zip-line and ropes challenge courses. As far as the biking goes, there’s plenty of variety, including jump lines and multiple pumps tracks, along with cross-country routes and singletrack trails. It’s $40 for a full-day pass, and this month the park will start offering bike rentals.

IND OOR S K I R ES ORT C OM ING TO TH E S UNS H INE STATE

T HE A. T. G ROW S

Harpers Ferry, W.Va. The Appalachian Trail Conservancy recently announced that after some relocations and updated measurements, the A.T. has increased in length by nearly four miles. Now officially 2,189.2 miles, the trail grew by 3.9 miles after an addition of two miles in southwest Virginia and additional minor gains in New York, New Jersey, Tennessee, North Carolina, and Georgia. Trail mileage is measured and reported by volunteers, largely from local trail clubs, whose members maintain sections of the A.T. tirelessly for no compensation.

M AR ATHON W I N N E R S L E E P S IN HIS T RUCK

Hilton Head, S.C. Tim Price loves to run marathons, but it’s often tough for him to cough up the expensive race entry fees. To save cash at out-of-town races the South Carolina-based Price sleeps in the back of his Ford F-150 to avoid hefty hotel bills. While not optimal for peak performance, the bumpy night’s sleep didn’t deter him from winning February’s Hilton Head Island Marathon, where he posted a personal best 2:39:35. Price, a naturalist with the Port Royal Sound Foundation in Beaufort, has become a familiar face on the racing scene for his distinct attire—American flag shorts and no shirt. After winning at Hilton Head he told Runner’s World about his sleeping preference: “It’s really nice to just park it at the start/finish area so your car is right there when you’re done. You don’t have to set an alarm, because people setting everything up wakes you up.”

H ELP S AV E A S H ENA ND OA H LA ND MA RK

Shenandoah National Park, Va. The Pinnacles Research Facility in Shenandoah National Park was built back in 1935 by members of the Civilian Conservation Corps—President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s Great Depression work relief program that created infrastructure in hundreds of national parks. A longtime outpost for maintenance, research, and construction, Pinnacles is now in need of repair, so the nonprofit Shenandoah National Park Trust is trying to raise $150,000 to preserve the park landmark.

The facility is still used each year by 700 volunteers, including trail workers from the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. To help, visit snptrust.org

Osceola County, Florida Bummed about the kids begging to visit Disney World? Soon a trip to Central Florida’s resort overload could involve some slope time. A press release recently announced plans to build the Xero Gravity Action Sports & Entertainment Resort, a huge multisport facility that will feature a 14-story ski and snowboard mountain with nine tubing lanes. Other indoor adventure opportunities at the Osceola County resort, which is set to carry a $309 million price tag, will include a fiveacre surfing area with 10-foot waves, a 25,000-square-foot indoor/outdoor skateboard park, two skydiving pods, a rapid river, a 140-foot climbing wall, a zip-line course, and a BMX track.

Expected to open in 2018, Xero Gravity officials said the resort would host X-Games-style competitions and also house the International Action Sports Hall of Fame.

S EA LION PUP C ATC H ES R ID E ON A K AYA K

Santa Barbara, California A father and his two kids from Orange County got an unexpected fourth passenger, as they paddled a kayak near Santa Barbara’s Stearns Wharf. A sea lion pup jumped on the back of the tandem boat and relaxed in the sun for approximately 20 minutes. According to the Associated Press, the friendly mammal even cuddled with Dad briefly while a crowd watched on a nearby pier. Video of the pup hitching the ride circulated online soon after the event took place on Valentine’s Day. A P R I L 2 01 5 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

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FAQs

0 4 . 15

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

RIVER SURFING

WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN OCEAN AND RIVER SURFING? MS: The difference mainly is that you’re chasing after an ocean wave and riding it for a few seconds. For a river wave, it’s in one stationary place, and once you’re on it, you can ride it as long as your skills allow you to ride it.

OCEANS AREN’T THE ONLY PLACE TO CATCH A WAVE

by JESS DADDIO

WHAT TYPE OF BOARD DO YOU USE? MR: When you’re looking for a river surfboard, you want one that’s wider in the tail—that will help keep you on the wave more. You will want a thicker board, so look for anything between 2.5 and 3 inches thick. Wider, too, at least 20-21 inches wide. That helps keep you in the wave longer. I use a 6’2” Boardworks Mini Mod. MS: The Badfish MVP and the Glide Sesh are my go-tos but a new one I’m checking out is the Paddlestroke G-Rocker which is a light inflatable surfboard.

photo by JESS DADDIO

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hat if you could get all the pleasure of surfing without ever getting sticky-saltwater-hair and sand in your ears? What if you could ride the perfect wave for minutes, hours even?

Sounds like an impossible dream, but a growing community is taking surfing from the oceans to the rivers. Fayetteville, W.Va., is at the forefront of the river surfing movement in the East with two badass chicas at the helm—Melanie Seiler of the standup paddleboard (SUP) community and Meghan Roberts representing the short boards. Though these two ladies have paid their dues on the ocean, both can agree— nothing beats the river.

For most of her life, 28-year-old Meghan Roberts has been riding boards—mainly snowboards and surfboards. When she landed in Fayetteville as a raft guide, she decided to take her surfboard to Canyon Doors, a popular boogie boarding spot on the Gauley River.

“I was trying to surf on the wave not even knowing [river surfing] was a thing and people were actually doing it,” Roberts remembers.

It was a complete failure at first. But then Roberts spotted a fatter foam surfboard for sale that, at first glance, appeared to be just an oversized boogie board.

Something told her that this fatter foam board was the ticket to surfing Canyon Doors, so she bought it, took it to the wave a few weeks later, and stood up in her first few tries.

“I remember standing there thinking, ‘Oh my God I’m doing it. It works!’ I was just shocked,” she says.

Since that first ride, Roberts has been in constant search of the perfect wave, surfing everything she would have normally bypassed as a raft guide. There’s

MELANIE SEILER STAND UP PADDLEBOARDS ON THE NEW RIVER, W.VA.

no easy way to get to most of these potential surf spots—some involve bushwhacking at least an hour to access—and more often than not, the weather is less than ideal. The surfing gets good when the weather gets bad, but according to Roberts, it’s all part of the adventure.

“When you’re surfing, you don’t think about how cold it is or how deep you might go when you swim,” she says. “All you are thinking about is that feeling of water rushing at you.”

Melanie Seiler agrees. Having lived in the whitewater hub of Fayetteville her whole life, Seiler thought she’d done it all—raft, kayak, ducky—until 2009 when a friend and fellow raft guide brought a couple stand up paddleboards to Gauley season.

Seiler thrived on the new challenge. Suddenly, class I and II stretches of the New were exciting and difficult again. She suffered through frigid temps and lugged her board through dense swaths of rhododendron for hours to find new waves to surf.

“On the one hand, it could be really, really frustrating,” Seiler says of those early days of learning, “but then it also showed me that you really have to work for [the surf] and you’re not just handed it.”

In the six years since, Seiler has hosted four SUP races on the New River Gorge, and developed guided SUP tours for Adventures on the Gorge.

“I love river surfing because you get on the wave and you can stay on it as long as you want,” she says.

“That feeling is all about the sense of being in the moment.”

WHAT GEAR WILL I NEED FOR RIVER SURFING? MR: Definitely a wakeboard vest. It’s flat so you can lay on the board better.

MS: I usually wear a 6mm wetsuit, 7mm gloves, and 7 mm booties. When it’s really cold, sometimes I wear layers underneath the wetsuit. And when it’s below 35 degrees out, the wetsuit’s not warm enough for me, so I wear my drysuit with a wetsuit hood vest pulled over.

WHERE IS THE BEST SURFING? MR: For short boards, Diagonal Ledges on the Gauley River. At 3000 to 3,200cfs, it’s a big green wave. Canyon Doors needs 800cfs to surf.

MS: For SUP surf, if you have some experience, the Perfect Wave on the Gauley is great at 1,800cfs and 6,500 cfs. Some people get intimidated when there’s higher water but in a lot of places it’s safer (think about it— more water, less rocks).

Another fun spot is Canyon Doors. I would classify that as an intermediate surf wave with really easy access and a really easy eddy. The two big ones, ones you wait for the right water levels, are Diagonal Ledges and the New River Dries. Diagonal Ledges is good between 2,500 and 3,500cfs while the Dries is good when the Thurmond gauge reads 18,000 to 24,000cfs. The Dries are so wide and bubbling and churning and stomping. Putting on for the first time will about make you throw up.

WHERE CAN I GET MORE INFORMATION? MR: riverbreak.com MS: supconnect.com, nrgsuprace.com

A P R I L 2 01 5 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

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LWCF

THE BIGGEST FOUR LETTERS IN CONSERVATION

by PAT BYINGTON CIRCLE YOUR CALENDAR. September 30, 2015.

That date will be one of the most important days in conservation history.

Six months from now, the Land and Water Conservation Fund’s authorization from the U.S. Congress will either expire or be re-authorized.

That’s right. The 114th Congress must decide whether one of the most successful conservation and recreation programs in history will live or die.

Fifty years ago, the U.S. Congress passed the Land and Water Conservation Fund (LWCF) Act. LWCF is the fund used to create, expand, and protect parks, forests, wildlife, recreation areas, and special places.

Most people have probably never heard of the program, but nearly every American has benefited from it.

If you have visited a national park, national forest, or one of the 41,000 state and local parks across the

“Congress must decide whether one of the most successful conservation and recreation programs in history will live or die.” nation, you have benefited from the Land and Water Conservation Fund.

LWCF is much like the Safe Drinking Water Act. It’s one of those little known successful federal laws that have made an enormous difference in everyone’s day to day lives. Because of the Safe Drinking Water Act, people drink water from the tap, take showers and baths and brush their teeth without having to think twice about getting sick. Unbeknownst to most Americans, because of LWCF, we have thousands of parks, trails, and special places to recreate and fall in love with outdoors.

How important is LWCF? The Blue Ridge region is in the midst of a “Clean Water Economy” revolution.

Kayaking, trout fishing, greenways, blueways, camping platforms and craft beers are just a few of the recreation industry engines driving this fast growing economy. One of the programs that taps into LWCF is called the Forest Legacy Program.

Forest Legacy funds are leveraging private and state funding sources to secure protection of 8,000 20

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acres along the East Fork of the French Broad River.

This one project opens up a new portfolio of recreation opportunities and ensures clean water for the region’s craft breweries. Thousands of sustainable jobs are now a reality because we will be permanently protecting the French Broad’s headwaters.

Other examples in the region include: M OUNTA IN B IKING —LWCF helped expand Lake James State Park, and in the process, created new areas for mountain bike trails.

HIKING TH E A PPA LACH IA N TR A IL —LWCF

programs have acquired inholdings protecting the AT’s and the Parkway’s viewsheds. funds have been used to help purchase Chimney Rock and save countless special places in the region such as Catawba Falls and the historically significant Overmountain

Victory trail.

So how do we save LWCF by September 30th?

Several senators have championed the reauthorization and full funding of LWCF. Bill S. 338 has garnered widespread bi-partisan support.

Support from the South is crucial. This is one piece of legislation the White House and Congress can agree on, but it will not happen if we do not get their attention.

If you care about conservation, recreation, a clean water economy, and saving special places throughout the South, make sure your voice is heard. Tell your representatives to re-authorize the Land and Water Conservation Fund. One of the most successful conservation programs in our nation’s history must not lapse.

NEW OUTD OOR D ESTINATIONS —LWCF

Learn more about LWCF and how you can get involved at lwcfcoalition.org

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4 FAVORITE WALK-AND-WADE ADVENTURES

by BEAU BEASLEY

photo by KAMI SWINGLE A P R I L 2 01 5 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

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hat are some of the top hike-and-fish destinations available to readers of Blue Ridge Outdoors? Here are a few of my favorites.

Bath County, Va.

The Native Americans took advantage of western Virginia’s warm and aromatic springs as a tonic for various illnesses long before the European colonists stumbled upon them. Since then, folks from every walk of life—including Thomas Jefferson—have come to aptly named Bath County’s springs to “take the waters.” I head to Bath County to take the waters, too—to fish, rather than to soak.

A series of waterfalls called The Cascades, located on property owned by the Omni Homestead Resort, is ideal for fly anglers, with both a solid population of fish and easy access. The lower end of the stream is stocked with large Kamloops rainbows; this area allows for fairly long casts and room for the feisty fish to run. Anglers can wade out here and attempt to cast into some of the deeper pools or try their hand at very technical casts near downed trees and other structures.

The slow, clear waters give the trout a distinct advantage here, so move carefully and avoid too many false casts.

As fly anglers climb to the top of the stream, they are rewarded with a rich view of moss-covered rocks and one beautiful waterfall after another. Best of all, visiting anglers can cast small flies and test their skills against wild naturally reproducing rainbows, which seem to inhabit the bottom of every waterfall. Guide Matt Thomas says that he consistently has to remind anglers to watch their step: “It’s not that it’s dangerous to fish here, but it’s just so darn pretty that people are looking everywhere around them except where they’re 26

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placing their feet.”

Guests of the Omni Homestead Resort can fish the area for free; outside guests can fish for a nominal fee.

Carter County, Tenn.

Hampton Creek, a public fishery in the eastern end of the Volunteer State, is ideal for hiking and smallstream fishing. Mike Adams, a hard-core fly angler whose easy manner and quiet confidence makes him the perfect fishing partner, has fished the waters of Tennessee for decades. He usually fishes this water with his trusty Tenkara rod and only a handful of flies. While Adams takes on this moderately difficult hike with the steel and grit of a mountain man, he’s as gentle as a lamb when it comes to landing and releasing the native trout.

Hampton Creek borders a hiking trail, which in turn links up to the famed Appalachian Trail.

Hampton Creek is a wild brook trout stream with significant canopy cover and lots of moss-covered rocks. Though you’ll wish you were part billy goat by the time you reach the creek, the natural beauty and the fishing will make the trek worthwhile.

Pocahontas County, W.Va

Rightly called the “Birthplace of Rivers,” Pocahontas County seems to have an endless supply of good trout water. Among the best known rivers here is the Elk, which goes underground in some places during the summer months as a result of low flows. Though I love to fish the famed Elk, I often focus on the Williams and Cherry Rivers instead because both see less pressure and have easy access. Camping is also available at designated areas near both rivers should you wish to take along your tent.

My introduction to West Virginia trout waters came courtesy of native Mountain State resident and fly fishing guide Gil Willis, a committed skier and snowboarder who puts his winter gear away once the snows have gone. “While West Virginia is seen as a playground for winter sports,” Willis says, “our trout fisheries are often overlooked.”

Large in-stream boulders mark both the Cherry and Williams Rivers. Fishing all the nooks and crannies of these two rivers could easily take the methodical angler a couple of weeks. While climbing in and around the banks of the rivers is a challenge, a great little hike is just around the corner.

The Falls of Hill Creek Trail lies directly between the Williams and the Cherry and offers a beautiful diversion surrounded by lush canopy cover—and no fewer than three waterfalls. The middle falls on this hike spans an impressive 70 feet and is one of the highest in West Virginia. Though the first 1,700 feet or so of the hiking trail is paved, the rest isn’t. A boardwalk combined with a series of metal stairways leads you down and around a mountain stream.

Swain County, N.C.

The Oconaluftee River, running through parts of Great Smoky Mountains National Park and onto lands that belong to the Cherokee Nation, is home to both healthy rainbows and feisty brown trout. You will find easy access to the river from multiple road pull-offs, and you can wade the river with ease—but high banks can make getting in and out of the river a challenge.

Inside the park, the narrowness of the water means the Oconaluftee is more of a creek than a river; in other places, however, the river is so wide that casting from photos by KAMI SWINGLE

TROUT WITHOUT TRAILS ST. MARYS RIVER, VA. The St. Marys River is not for rank beginners and can be intimidating even for the more experienced angler.

At first blush, the St. Mary’s is much more like a creek than a river, and low water conditions here can make fishing tough. Second, the river can’t seem to make up its mind which way it wants to run—sometimes east, sometimes west, sometimes seemingly in both directions simultaneously, branching around small islands that cause you to lose sight of the main river.

Third, this constant changing of course is illustrated by the large amounts of stone on each side of the river banks, which make walking up or downstream quite difficult at times.

Finally, the water is gin clear, making a stealthy, cautious approach a must for those who hope to bring the St. Mary’s sly mountain trout to hand.

The river is easily accessed off of Fire Road 41—but that’s where the easy part ends.

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GUNPOWDER FALLS, MD. Although Maryland’s Gunpowder Falls is nearly 53 miles long, most fly anglers concentrate on three sections covering about 17 miles.

The first section, stretching from Prettyboy Dam to Falls Road, is entirely catch-and-release and may be fished by traditional anglers as well as fly rodders. Hiking into and around the river here is a must.

Despite the nearby parking lot, this section’s grading is best left to people with good knees who take their time making their way to the water.

The second section of the river, which runs from Falls Road to York Road, is that classic trout river of which purists dream—runs, riffles, the occasional long pool—and yet one needn’t be part billy goat to move around. Yes, the walking is easier— but there is also a bit less cover, which means that the fish can be easy to spook. You’ll still find plentiful undergrowth and ferns, so take your time and watch your step.

The third frequently fished section of the river, which is deeper and much slower than the other two, stretches from York Road to Bluemont Road.

The last two sections of the river are popular with canoeists, though you’ll probably only spot canoes on weekends.

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photo by KAMI SWINGLE

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one bank to the other is beyond the average angler’s ability. The river is strewn with large rocks and features undercut banks and a good tree canopy, giving local trout the edge over visiting anglers.

Eugene Shuler, longtime guide and owner of Fly Fishing the Smokies, knows the Oconaluftee—and nearby Tuckasegee and Little Tennessee—like the back of his hand. He brings beginners to the Oconaluftee, he says, because “there are lots of fish in this river, and they tend to be cooperative if you wade carefully and present your flies the right way.”

Unfortunately, when it comes to Oconaluftee trout, “their strikes are so fast and so subtle that some anglers don’t even know they’ve gotten a bite before the trout is gone.”

You’ll need a regular state fishing license and a trout stamp to fish in the national park, but fishing on tribal lands requires a special permit that is issued solely by the Cherokee nation. A fly-fishing-only section on tribal lands is surely worth a look because they have their own hatchery from which they frequently stock the river.

While you’re in the area, hop on the Oconaluftee River Trail that runs alongside the river. The trail begins at the Mountain Farm Museum at the Oconaluftee Visitors Center and travels 1.5 miles to the outskirts of Cherokee, N.C. This trail is one of the two paths in Great Smoky Mountains National Park on which visitors can walk dogs and ride their bikes.

(The other is the Gatlinburg Trail). The Oconaluftee River Trail hike is more like a stroll because it’s

LEARN TO FLY FISH THIS SPRING The 15th annual Virginia Fly Fishing & Wine Festival on April 11-12 in Waynesboro, Virginia is the largest event of its kind in the country.

The festival draws nearly 2,000 attendees each spring and offers instruction in all things fly fishing, including fly casting, fish handling, tying basic knots, and safe wading practices.

It even offers a children’s catch and release trout pool. A designated fly tying section will also be available for young and old alike where students can sit alongside seasoned fly tyers and learn the basics. All instructional materials and equipment will be available at no charge. Trout Unlimited will be on hand to educate attendees about the importance of good coldwater fisheries habitats and their Ten Special Places campaign. Admission is $20, and a variety of paid and free casting classes are also available.

vaflyfishingfestival.org

relatively flat; nevertheless, a handful of hills keep things interesting. If you arrive in Cherokee after May 1, you can check out the newly opened Fly Fishing Museum of the Southern Appalachians, which houses all manner of fly fishing memorabilia.

Beau Beasley is a longtime fly angler and the author of Fly Fishing Virginia and Fly Fishing the Mid-Atlantic.

Next time someone asks what you did last weekend, have a better answer. Start planning your action-packed Kentucky getaway today. Visit KentuckyTourism.com/famous

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OUTDOOR ADVENTURES UNFOLD IN KENTUCKY.

The best way to enjoy Kentucky is outside! Your adventure unfolds with trails for hiking, biking and horseback riding, thousands of miles of rivers and streams, fishing and boating lakes, rafting and canoeing expeditions, caves to be explored and nearly 900,000 acres of national forests.

Kentucky State Parks can be great home bases as you experience Kentucky’s outdoors.

Fourty-nine state parks, including 17 resorts with lodge accommodations, blanket the Commonwealth. Many of the parks offer numerous soft adventures, and just outside the gates a variety of world-class extreme adventures beckon.

Trails in Kentucky come in all shapes and sizes. As pioneers and settlers moved westward in the 19th century, many traveled to and through Kentucky. Places like the Cumberland Gap and the Wilderness Road were vital to American expansion. Now, these historically significant trails have evolved into a recreational trail system that totals over 12,000 miles.

Whether you are looking for a monthlong backpacking adventure or a short Sunday afternoon stroll, Kentucky has a trail for you.

One method of finding your way to these trails is through the Kentucky Trail Town destinations. These towns are located near or along major trail systems and offer services to visitors. For example, the community of Livingston sits along the state’s longest trail system, the 269-mile Sheltowee Trace National Recreation Trail. Search “trail towns” on kentuckytourism.com to find the complete list.

Kentucky is the Horse Capital of the World, which means fabulous trail riding for equine enthusiasts. Horse camps across the Commonwealth connect horse and rider with some of the best trail systems around.

Many stables offer the opportunity for trail riding if you don’t have your own horse.

Those looking to pedal their way around have plenty of options in Kentucky as well. Mountain bikers will find great single track, and road cyclists are sure to enjoy one of the dozens of popular paved routes.

Everyone can find a route that matches their level of expertise. Meanwhile, southeastern Kentucky is growing into one of the top destinations for ATVs and off-road vehicles in the country. Thousands of miles have been developed on reclaimed mine lands

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and wooded forests. The views from atop these popular ATV parks are sure to make you come back again and again.

Adventures are happening in Kentucky high above the ground and far below. From treetop canopy tours to the largest cave system in the world, there are plenty of ways to explore Kentucky. Mammoth Cave National Park preserves the world’s longest mapped cave system (400 miles), and guided tours are given daily. Above ground, the park spotlights the Green River valley and provides lots of opportunities to explore nature. The Red River Gorge has some of the best climbing routes in the country and attracts thousands of altitude seekers each

year. Mega Cavern in Louisville features the world’s only underground zipline as well as a challenge course and bike park. Climb up high or delve down below to truly experience all the adventure in Kentucky.

Kentucky has thousands of miles of navigable water flowing through it and there are plenty of ways to get out and enjoy a water adventure.

Whether you’re looking for a high-adrenaline whitewater rush through the Russell Fork in gorgeous Breaks Interstate Park or a nice afternoon paddle down a quiet stream, we’ve got more than enough options to get on the water. Anglers and boaters will find an abundance of fish to pursue.

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If you’re looking for wildlife, you’ve come to the right place. Kentucky is home to the largest elk herd east of the Rocky Mountains. More than 360 species of birds flourish in the Bluegrass State. John James Audubon State Park in Henderson is a must-visit for those interested in bird identification and observation. Many other types of wildlife such as deer, raccoon, wild turkey and squirrels are seen by guests of our state parks. The Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area showcases elk and bison in their natural prairie habitat.

Enjoy a great vacation on the water by renting a floating luxury retreat (or what we like to call a houseboat). Houseboats are available in a variety of sizes, with amenities that include air conditioning, TVs, DVD players, water slides and private state rooms. Cruise the lake or find a secluded cove to anchor in and let the fun begin. You and your family can spend the day cruising, skiing, fishing or just living the good life on board. More than 100 marinas offer boat and jet-ski rentals.

There’s no question Kentucky offers some of the best in outdoor recreation.

Many activities require specialized gear or knowledge to be fully enjoyed.

Not to worry, since outfitters and guide services for all outdoor activities are ready to assist in your adventure. Shuttle services, retail stores, repair shops and gear rental will have you on the trail or in the water in no time.

It’s now up to you…pick your adventure, select your Kentucky destination and let the fun begin. www.kentuckytourism.com

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THE RAGGED EDGE

ave for your own heart thudding behind your chest, the only noise you can hear is that of a thundering freight train. It’s a low rumbling, a guttural churning. It’s the sound of unseen whitewater, of hundreds of cfs (cubic feet per second) of surging current charging toward a horizon line before dropping off into the void. Steep canyon walls rise from the river’s edge, boxing you in, committing you forever downstream.

The late afternoon sunlight filters into the gorge, but soon it will be gone. You and your partner stare at the lip from the safety of your cockpits several yards upstream. An almost foreboding sense of dread coupled with the enticing allure of the unknown tempts you to carry on. The only assurance you have that anything even exists beyond the river’s edge comes in the form of mist spraying intermittently into the air. Aside from that, you know nothing of what lies ahead.

To some, kayaking at even its most basic level seems counterintuitive, reckless, a sure sign of a death wish. At first blush, the sport may certainly seem that way—

by JESS DADDIO

after all, you are strapping yourself into a plastic boat and hurling yourself down a natural force that carves out mountains, for Pete’s sake. Undoubtedly, kayaking is not everyone’s cup of tea. But the media coverage that the whitewater community, and the adventure sports world at large, receives does little to resolve any misgivings about outdoor recreation.

The news celebrates the dramatic and mourns the traumatic. Sensationalized reports like that of Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson’s record free climb of the Dawn Wall or the tragic unveiling of kayaker Shannon Christy’s death on the Great Falls of the Potomac River lead the public eye astray, to the idea that the world of adventure is either awe-inspiring or foolishly dangerous and nothing in between.

And the adventurers themselves? Well, they can be heroes one day, adrenalinecrazed junkies the next.

But what about you and your partner, sitting there above a rapid you’ve never run before? Maybe it’s the first time any human being has seen this river from the

photo by SCOTT MARTIN A P R I L 2 01 5 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

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cockpit of a kayak. Or perhaps you’re just another paddler, one of the hundreds who will navigate these same waters during the season. You’re not out there for the fame and glory of it. You’re definitely not out there with a death wish—actually, you’d prefer to make it downriver alive so you can paddle again tomorrow.

So why do you do it? Why spend your free time dancing with danger, risking life and limb for an activity of no apparent societal value while cozy couches and the latest Netflix releases sit unattended? What is it about kayaking, about riding, about climbing, that beckons to you, that begs and pleads then outright demands you to ditch work early and head for the mountains? What is it that keeps you coming back for more even after the worst of swims? What is it?

French philosopher Jean Jacques Rousseau called it l’homme sauvage, the wild man that lies beneath our civilized exterior. English explorer Sir Richard Burton blamed it on “the devil [that] drives.” Scientists worldwide have attributed a heightened presence of it in humans that carry the 7R variant of the DRD4 gene, a dopamine-receptor in the brain that elicits restlessness and encourages noveltyseeking behaviors.

Whatever you want to call it though, we all have it. It’s what makes us climb up trees as children, date new people as teenagers, and take jobs and move away as adults. It’s what makes us fire up the rapid we always used to portage and charge the cliff we normally sneak. It’s the call of the unknown, the longing for the land of Beyond, but it’s about time we asked ourselves—will it ever push us too far?

IS THE JUICE WORTH THE SQUEEZE? In 2009, kayaker Tyler Bradt soared 77mph over the lip of Palouse Falls in Washington State. When his boat hit the water, it disappeared beneath the falls’ pummeling for nearly seven seconds. He eventually surfaced, still inside his boat and with a broken paddle in hand, but surprisingly he was unharmed and, it should go without saying, stoked at having set the record for the tallest waterfall ever run in a kayak. It was 189.5 feet in height.

Bradt’s accomplishment was considered groundbreaking by some, insane by others. No one at the time knew if the human body could withstand such an impact and live to see another day, and no one’s topped that record since. At 167 feet, Niagara Falls would have come in at a close second, but Red Bull paddler Rafa Ortiz backed away from the challenge in 2013 after three years of meticulous planning and preparation for the first descent.

“I walked to the drop like I’ve done with many waterfalls in the past, looking for that last positive feeling,” Ortiz said on social media afterwards. “It wasn’t there.”

While Bradt and Ortiz’s vertical exploits represent the fringes of the sport nowadays, it’s only a matter of time before running 100-plus-foot waterfalls becomes mainstream. Just 30 years ago, the kayaking community would have never considered running a 100-footer in a boat (and surviving it) as even a remote

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LEFT TO RIGHT: LEE BELKNAP’S TOY AUTO, A 1986 TOYOTA TRUCK THAT TOOK HIM TO COUNTLESS ADVENTURES; WICK WALKER, VALLEY FALLS, TYGART, 1975; WICK WALKER, WONDER FALLS, BIG SANDY, 1975; DAVID “PSYCHO” SIMPSON RUNNING SINGLEY’S FALLS ON OVERFLOW CREEK, HEADWATERS OF THE WEST FORK OF THE CHATTOOGA RIVER (PHOTO BY LEE BELKNAP).

possibility. The early days of the sport were focused more on slalom paddling and downriver races. Kayaks were 13 feet long, homemade, and, consequently, easily breakable. Impacts from plunging over a waterfall like Palouse would surely result in serious injury if not death.

But that doesn’t mean the early pioneers of the sport weren’t lured away from the slalom world by the call of the unknown, that tantalizing prospect of possibility. In fact, had it not been for renegade paddlers from the ‘70s and ‘80s who crashed their awkwardly long boats down steep creeks no one had ever seen before, Bradt might never have developed the skills or found the courage to buck up and huck Palouse Falls.

A lot has changed within the sport of kayaking in just a few decades. Between boat redesigns, new moves and skillsets, and beta galore on rivers and creeks previously deemed unrunnable, the paddlers of today are presented with a new challenge—what next? And more importantly, will the risk of taking that next step be worth the reward?

To help visualize just how far the sport has grown, and to provide some insight into the paddler’s psyche, I talked with six boaters, past and present, who have tread that line of possibility, battled risk for reward, and helped to progress the world of kayaking in the Blue Ridge and beyond.

CHARLIE’S CHOICE It was the spring of 1972. Pennsylvania born-and-raised Charlie Walbridge sat in his boat below the class IV rapid Bastard on the Upper Youghiogheny River, trembling, barely able to pull his skirt over the cockpit.

Walbridge was just a 20-something-year-old at the time with a c1 (that’s a oneman canoe with a covered cockpit) and a wild hair. He was a seasoned paddler who frequented the rivers of western Pennsylvania and the northern parts of Virginia and West Virginia. Having paddled extensively for the past five years, Walbridge was well versed in the ways of whitewater.

But that day, Bastard got the best of him.

“I got run off the Upper Yough,” Walbridge remembers. “It was my first time.

I was shaking so hard I couldn’t put the skirt back on. That’s when I knew I didn’t belong there.”

Walbridge decided to walk out (hence the rapid’s name, Charlie’s Choice). Keep in mind this was the early ‘70s. Runs like the Upper Yough and the Upper Gauley, now still considered classics but by no means legitimate class Vs, were among the

stoutest of the stout in the Southeast and Mid-Atlantic.

Walbridge’s decision was respectable, not cowardly.

Though he would later take part in some of the first paddling expeditions to navigate the waters of the notoriously steep upper section of the Blackwater River (before the flood of 1985), Walbridge never had his mind set on chasing first descents or making a name for himself among the paddling community. He was in it for the sheer enjoyment of the river.

“We were all just trying new things out,” he says.

“That was the fun of it. There’s nothing better than going down a river that you don’t know and that there’s not very much known about it. It’s as good as it gets.”

Walbridge never stopped paddling. Even at age 67, he still runs the class IV+ Big Sandy (so long as it’s under six feet) and stays involved with the boating community at large. For over 40 years, Walbridge has written accident reports of whitewater-related incidents and has even served as the Safety Chair for the American Canoe Association (ACA) and American Whitewater (AW). In addition, he has helped to develop swiftwater safety curriculum for ACA and oversees whitewater-canoeing instruction.

There’s no doubt about it—Walbridge has seen some big change come to the paddling world. So what does he think about its future?

“People are clucking and shaking their heads at the hot paddlers today who are running waterfalls, but I remember people clucking and shaking their heads at us for playing at Pillow [on the Upper Gauley]. The young guys make me nervous, but that’s their job. We

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made the old guys nervous when I was in my 20s!”

THE WILL TO SURVIVE “John, you could die right now.”

Those were the last words John Regan remembered telling himself before he slipped into an adrenalinefueled survival mode. It was 1989, and Regan had agreed to show his friend down the Upper Blackwater in West Virginia, a class V stretch of whitewater known for its heinous sieves and big boulders. He was paddling a 13-foot slalom boat, which he preferred, he says, because “plastic boats at the time weren’t high performance—they were dogs.”

But it was precisely the boat’s low volume and unwieldy length that got Regan in a position that had just recently killed his friend and fellow paddler: a vertical pin. Regan was trapped, upright, quite literally between a rock and a hard place. Somehow, Regan managed to maintain his air pocket while he shifted his weight and maneuvered the boat out of the predicament. The next rapid down, however, he pinned himself again above a significant drop. His nerves were shot.

“I’ll never forget, my buddy was there, and he got me out of the pin and immediately slapped me across the face and said, ‘If you can’t handle this we’re walking outta here right now,’” Regan remembers.

That slap back to reality was all it took, and the two successfully finished the run, but Regan remained acutely aware of the risk that inherently came with the sport.

“I’ve lost 30 friends through my kayaking career,” Regan says. “There’s no rule or reason, no why or who.

Anybody can die no matter how good you are, but we wouldn’t be pushing the limits if we didn’t have people that seek that balance of risk and reward.”

Soon after the Upper Blackwater run, Regan ditched the slalom boat and picked up a Prijon T-Canyon, one of the early plastic prototypes, and did just that—he pushed the limits. From the North Fork of the Blackwater to the Upper Otter, Overflow Creek, and Red Creek, Regan knocked off first descent after first descent throughout the Mid-Atlantic.

He’s no stranger to mishap—adversity has played quite a part in his decades of kayaking and snow kiting and backcountry skiing. But he also knows what it means to see potential in something seemingly impossible, to go against the grain, to trust your gut and roll with it.

“It’s not for the glory. It’s not for the picture. It’s a personal test, ” he says. “To see what these young guns have accomplished, you gotta believe that the next generation is gonna accomplish more. I mean, just think about Dane Jackson’s kid! What’s next?

THE FORBIDDEN KINGDOM Wick Walker never took ‘no’ for an answer. ‘Can’t’ was simply not in his vocabulary. It was a mentality that had served him well all his life, so much so that it’d helped him gain a spot among the United States whitewater canoe team at the World Championships of 1965, 1967, and 1971, as well as the 1972 Summer

Olympics in Munich.

So when the National Park Service personnel patrolling the Great Falls of the Potomac told Walker he couldn’t make the first descent of those yet-unrun rapids that straddle the Maryland/Virginia border, Walker smiled politely, then went and grabbed his gear.

“They were hell bent on stopping us,” he remembers. “Of course, that made it that much more tempting.”

On a Sunday morning before dawn, Walker, local legend and longtime friend Tom McEwan, and their mutual friend Dan Schnurrenberger put in on the Potomac River and paddled a mile and a half upstream. It was 1976 and by the time park service patrollers arrived at their post just a couple hours later, the three men had already checked off the first descent of what would become one of the most iconic class V runs in the Mid-Atlantic.

“That run took three years of preparation,” Walker says. “We proved you could build the skills to do something that looks darn near impossible.”

After the Great Falls success, Walker became hungry for more. He was part of the second crew to run the Meadow River and Upper Blackwater (preflood) in West Virginia, one of the first to navigate the Linville Gorge (though not in its entirety). He lived in Europe for a number of years, paddling everything he could in the Alps. But all the while, his eyes were set on another goal: the forbidden kingdom of Bhutan.

“Nobody in, nobody out,” Walker says of Bhutan’s

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power-hungry government. “There had been no climbing expeditions, and ours would be the very first paddling expedition. That’s why it was such a super fun challenge.”

Walker and his crew of five spent four weeks in Bhutan in 1982, racking up first descents on the Paro, Thimphu, and Pho Chu Rivers. The experience did little to satisfy Walker’s need to explore. He continued to kayak throughout North America, Mexico, and Europe and eventually landed in Pakistan by way of his career as a military advisor. He’s experienced a number of traumatic incidents on the river, lost friends and fellow paddlers, found himself caught in rising flood waters, and blacked out from a lack of oxygen while finagling his way out of a vertical pin, but his dedication to pushing the boundaries of the sport remained tried and true throughout his paddling career.

“I am astounded every time I see what some of these guys are doing these days,” he says of the current generation of paddlers, “but on the other hand, we did think that we were just at the very beginning, that all sorts of neat stuff was gonna be done.”

spent 25 years playing lifeguard and I can’t tell you how many people I’ve saved.”

Having served as Safety Chairman for American Whitewater for 12 years and kayaked around the country for three decades, Belknap has seen it all.

One of his most stressful moments occurred on the Chattooga River when friend and fellow paddler Rob Baird found himself pinned underwater at Hydroelectric Rock. Baird went without oxygen for nearly seven minutes.

Belknap and his crew didn’t waste a single second, though. Belknap hopped out of his boat and into the water, working quickly at extracting Baird’s body. When he came free, the other paddlers began resuscitating him and making plans to execute an evacuation. Thanks to their valiant efforts, Baird would go on to make a full recovery.

“Whitewater is an assumed risk sport,” Belknap says. “You assume there’s a risk, and part of the sport is to figure out what those risks are and how to manage them. I spent a lot of time doing stuff people thought I shouldn’t be doing, but kayaking is a sport of risk managers, not risk takers.”

IT’S ASSUMED

KIDS THESE DAYS

Dark was nearing. The clouds overhead had opened up into a mid-winter storm, pelting sheets of ice onto the river below. It was December of 1987, and Lee Belknap and his paddling partner Victor Jones stood to the side of the Horsepasture River in North Carolina, contemplating their next move.

Behind them rose the steep canyon walls, sheer 60-degree slopes that were now slick from frozen precipitation. Ahead of them? A series of cascades dropping over 700 vertical feet in less than a quarter mile, the infamous Windy Falls.

“Our only option really was to do this 35-foot rappel, which we’d have to do with my throw rope,” Belknap remembers. “I know it was 35 feet because it used up half of my 70-foot throw rope.”

Though the two had started the day early with every intention of finishing the first descent of the Horsepasture down to Lake Jocassee, the fact of the matter was that, unless they wanted to paddle their half-frozen, exhausted bodies through the night to the lake, they would need to hunker down and finish out the run the next morning. Fortunately, the pair was prepared with bivouacs and camped out on a surprisingly level spot just two-thirds of the way through their portage of Windy Falls.

“Our wet gear started freezing about 10 that evening,” Belknap says. “We had to improvise heavily but we were able to keep warm. I’m not sure what Victor thought about it, but I slept like a baby.”

With a fire roaring and a full moon lighting the rim, Belknap, actually, couldn’t have been happier.

Though that would be his first and last time down the Horsepasture by boat, Belknap never forgot the sound of the thundering falls luring him to sleep and that quiet satisfaction of being surrounded by wilderness, a feeling that outweighed any sense of bravado he might have felt at being the first to descend what would become a classic class V run in the Southeast.

“I just love the exploration,” Belknap says, “but I

With shoes like that to fill, it’s hard to imagine that the sport could go any further. The heyday of paddling was, debatably, the 80s and 90s when kayakers were building new boats, stomping steeper runs, and creating today’s top whitewaterspecific gear manufacturing companies in their garages.

The young guns of today have it made. They don’t have to build their own boats or suffer through the cold in their rain jackets and heavy wool—they have high performance drysuits and pogies and large-volume, lightweight creek boats made from durable plastic. They don’t have to wonder what lies around the river’s bend, for someone has already been there, already seen it and photographed it and put up reports of it on Boater Talk and American Whitewater.

Kids these days get to sit back, relax, and ride the currents of blood, sweat, and boat pins laid down by the pioneers before them.

That is, of course, unless they have it, that fire-inyour-belly, call of the unknown that can’t be answered, can’t be satisfied by simply following in the flow of their whitewater forefathers. As T.S. Eliot once wrote, “Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far it is possible to go.” Geoff Calhoun and Pat Keller are among those who are willing to risk just that.

“It’s such an awesome experience to be doing something people didn’t know if you could do or not,” Maryland-based paddler Geoff Calhoun says. “What hasn’t been done around here is really low volume

manky stuff that requires huge amounts of rainfall.”

In 2010, Calhoun got that huge amount of rainfall and knocked off the first descent of Jordan Run in West Virginia, a decent-sized drainage with a boxedin gorge and a sizable 30-foot waterfall. Setting out on Jordan Run required more than just a hearty sense of adventure and class V creeking skills—it required total commitment.

“I was scared,” Calhoun remembers. “I get nervous about doing big things, but we scouted the waterfall diligently. It was either run it or do a pain-in-the-ass portage.”

Calhoun and his paddling partner decided on the former, both successfully running the entirety of Jordan Run and the falls twice in one day. Calhoun’s photos by CHRIS GRAGTMANS

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since revisited the creek and discovered that, despite having paddled it a few times now, “there’s still a bit of mystery around it,” something he says, that makes him respect the river that much more.

Calhoun never imagined racking up a first descent.

Jordan Run was really a matter of being in the right place at the right time and knowing the right people. But for Asheville-based paddler Pat Keller, first descents are his bread and butter.

Linville Falls, Toxaway Falls, Cane Creek Falls, Ozone Falls, Shining Rock Creek, Noccalula Falls, Laurie’s Falls, Upper Creek—the list goes on and on, and these are just a handful of Keller’s first descents in the Southeast and Mid-Atlantic, but this guy’s been around. He’s also joined Red Bull athlete Steve Fisher on a first descent of the Hanging Spear Falls Gorge on New York’s Opalescent River, a run that drops over 950 feet in three quarters of a mile. He’s been the first to huck the 70-foot Big Brother Falls on the Valser Rhein in Switzerland and the 65-footer Aldayjarfoss in Iceland.

He’s put kayakers to shame year after year at the Great Falls Race on the Potomac and the Green River Race in North Carolina, kickflipped Oceana on the Tallulah, and even spearheaded the creation of a new boat and new racing class specific to the Green River Race. He’s done all of this, and more, before he’s even hit the big 3-0.

It’s no wonder, then, that Keller was voted Canoe and Kayak Male Paddler of the Year in 2014. But behind all of the first descents and record runs, Keller’s certainly dealt with his fair share of bad days.

“When I was 15 I watched my best friend drown in British Columbia,” Keller says. “The risk is not lost on me. If I feel like I’m trying to talk myself into something, I won’t do it.”

Keller’s a competitive type, there’s no doubt about that. Having been raised in a river loving household with a background in slalom racing, Keller has spent the better part of his life learning how to go bigger and faster. But Keller has it, that need to explore, the compulsion to push, to not just wonder what’s around the bend but to put body, blade, and boat there and see for himself.

“It’s just that primal desire to explore combined with the satisfaction of using your body as one mechanical system,” he says, “because part of living is exploring.

Water is such a powerful thing. It moves boulders, it changes mountains. To be able to dabble in that power is pretty freakin’ amazing.”

Keller lives and breathes the world of whitewater, and if there’s anyone who can comment on the future of the sport, it’s this guy. With the advent of kayaking schools, safer and more dependable boats, and more accessible beta, the popularity of the sport has blown through the roof. Kayakers are firing up class IV-V rivers in their first year of paddling, something that would have been practically unheard of back in the days of Walker and Belknap. But is it all bad, or is there a silver lining to all of this gung-ho energy?

“Do I think we’ve reached the limit of what can be run in a kayak? Absolutely not. Are we pushing the limits of possibility? Sure,” Keller says. “Waterfall running has a ways to go before we reach the ragged edge, but to ponder what we as humans can set our minds to and then do, it’s amazing.

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B Cherokee Trails IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF APPALACHIA’S FIRST PEOPLE

by LAMAR MARSHALL

efore there were roads, there were only trails.

Before there were wheels, there were only feet.

Before the Norsemen and Columbus stumbled upon North America, the continent was crisscrossed by a trail system chiseled into the earth by animals large and small and the silent moccasins that followed them.

Three hundred years ago, the southern Appalachians were home to the sovereign Cherokee Nation. Over sixty towns and settlements were connected by a well-worn system of foot trails, many of which later became bridle paths and wagon roads. This Indian trail system was the blueprint for the circuitry of the region’s modern road, rail, and interstate systems. Cherokee towns and villages were scattered across Southern Appalachia. The most isolated of these towns were in the remote valleys of western North Carolina along the Little Tennessee, Cheoah, Valley, Hiwassee, Nantahala, and Tuckasegee Rivers. Mountainous barriers reaching into the sky surrounded these towns and European explorers described them as “impassable” on early maps.

For the past seven years, I have stalked ancient trails across the Cherokee Mountains—the Appalachian Mountains as they are known today. I have driven on trails now paved over, and I have floated rivers that parallel trading paths.

Some of these paths were used in the 1838 Trail of Tears when most of the Cherokee Nation was forced west.

To map these trails, I hiked through chest-high stinging nettles and slithered on my belly through laurel thickets and around steaming piles of bear scat. One trail up the Snowbird Mountains crisscrossed a creek eighteen times within two miles. I got stung over a dozen times by yellow jackets on four different days, and was near hypothermia from a blinding rain storm that took us by surprise on Chunky Gal Mountain.

These trails are not to be confused with modern recreational trails, although portions of some of them have become a part of the Appalachian, Bartram, and Benton MacKaye Trails. They are abandoned and deeply entrenched in some places, and overgrown in rhododendron and laurel in others. Sometimes a trail abruptly disappears where early 20th century logging operations stripped the mountains of trees. We can stand in the deeply worn recesses and look at the distant profiles of the mountains from the exact vantage point of Cherokee ancestors a thousand years ago. These trails were the travel arteries of the land, the highways of their day, and they connect our generation with the history of the land.

When I am not on the trail, I live in a world of old maps, survey plats, journals, 18th and 19th century land deeds, and historical archives, that over time have become assimilated with modern topographic maps and indelibly stamped into my mind as a layered and seamless, three-dimensional landscape.

This ancient landscape comes to life through a piece of crumbling, hand-lettered parchment, a scrimshawed powder horn, or the silent voice of a traveler’s journal, mile by mile and stream by stream. I reconstruct the cultural landscape of those who knew these mountains before the Europeans came, gathering information from national and university archives and marking a verifiable course on modern topo maps. Then, wherever possible, I walk the trails. Researching and documenting Indian trails requires skill in cross-country navigation, the basics of land surveying, access to historic map collections and early records, and physical ability.

photo by LAMAR MARSHALL A P R I L 2 01 5 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

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B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S / A P R I L 2 01 5

FIND US

NOLAND CREEK TRAIL (4.1 miles)

Great Smoky Mountains National Park, N.C. Noland Creek Trail is identified as a Cherokee trail on early land records. It connected the Little Tennessee River Trail to Clingmans Dome, known to the Cherokee as Kuwahi or the Mulberry Place. Noland Creek Trail is also a section of the larger Benton MacKaye Trail. There was an Indian camp located near the junction of the creek and the Little Tennessee River.

Directions: From downtown Bryson City, take Everett Street across the railroad tracks and continue west on Lakeview Drive for 7.9 miles. There is a parking area on the left just before crossing Noland Creek.

TRIMONT RIDGE TRAIL and BARTRAM TRAIL TO WAYAH BALD (10.8 miles)

Franklin, N.C. The Bartram Trail Society adopted a section of the old Cherokee trail that followed Trimont Ridge. The trail is maintained and in excellent condition. I recommend beginning at Wayah Bald and following the Bartram Trail route east to Bruce Knob where it leaves the Cherokee trail and ends at the Bartram trailhead at Wallace Creek.

Directions: From US Highway 441/23 and US Highway 64 intersection south of Franklin, NC, head west for one mile and turn right on Sloan Road. Pass US Forest Service Nantahala District

Ranger Office and turn left on Old Murphy Road. Turn immediately right on Pressley Road. At 2.5 miles pass Wallace Branch Road on left. Stay straight on what is now Ray Cove Road. At 3.6 miles park at Bartram trailhead.

INDIAN GAP TRAIL (3.3 miles)

Great Smoky Mountains National Park, N.C. A well-preserved section of the Indian Gap Trail exists in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. This trail is known as Road Prong Trail on National Park Service maps. It’s an incredibly gorgeous walk with much plant diversity, old trees, raging mountain stream with falls and rapids. This trail is maintained by the National Park Service. The walk is easy. There are a few fords in the upper stretches but the NPS has constructed bridges towards the lower end.

Indian Gap Trail, as it was locally known, connected the Tuckasegee River to Gatlinburg. It bisects the Great Smoky Mountains, crossing the crest at Indian Gap. Many intersecting trails and forks off the Indian Gap trail led to special destinations throughout the Great Smoky Mountains.

Directions: Park on the Clingmans Dome Road at the Indian Gap parking area/kiosk and walk the trail downhill to the Chimneytops parking area.

CHEROKEE TRAILS AND HIKES: THE MAP SHOWS THE MAJOR TOWNS SITES IN NORTH CAROLINA AND THE YELLOW LINES ARE MAJOR HISTORICAL TRAILS. FOUR PLACES THAT CAN BE ACCESSED BY THE PUBLIC ON PUBLIC LANDS ARE HIGHLIGHTED.

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Disappearance

Many unforgettable events transpired as I bushwhacked up and down the Appalachian Mountains of Western North Carolina hunting and mapping trails and places. But the strangest and most grueling trip in my memory was when I was led to a sacred place by three Cherokee men by horseback and on foot into one of the wildest and most remote places in Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

A 58-year-old Cherokee man named John offered to take me to an ancient and sacred place, providing that I not reveal any information about its name or location. I agreed and he arranged for his cousin and friend to meet us with four horses. He said there was an old man-way to the place, so we saddled up and rode many miles before ascending a high mountain.

John’s cousin dismounted several times along the way to examine medicinal and edible plants his grandfather had taught him. We rode on several miles as far as we were able, dismounted and tied our horses. The rest of our journey would be on foot.

Since I was traveling with John, I didn’t bother to bring my highly detailed topographic maps of the area.

My GPS was prominently hanging from my pack strap and I wondered if my Cherokee friend had concerns

LEFT: WE WADED, CLIMBED, AND CRAWLED UPSTREAM FOR A COUPLE OF MILES BEFORE TURNING AND MAKING OUR WAY UP THE MOUNTAIN. photo by LAMAR MARSHALL

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B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S / A P R I L 2 01 5

about my GPS even though he did not forbid its use.

We walked an old trail to the brow of the mountain and began to climb down the side slope. The faint path was royally overgrown with gnarled mountain laurel so thick that a rabbit would think twice before following.

We crawled, climbed, slid, contorted, and inched our way down the mountain. I dared not let my friends get too far ahead.

After a thousand-foot drop in elevation in 2.6 miles, we finally approached our destination late that afternoon. We quietly observed the sacred destination.

Now it was time to find our way home.

I knew then that I was in trouble if we expected to make it back to the horses before dark. An alternate route was determined and we began walking along a stream that skirted the mountain where our horses waited. The laurel was so dense that we ended up wading in the creek, on treacherously slippery rocks with our boots full of water. Frequent logjams forced us to circumvent them through the laurel.

About this time one of the strangest things that ever happened to me occurred. As I was walking beside the stream in an open, flat place, my feet went out from under me and I fell barely into the edge of a small pool of crystal clear water that was only three feet across and two feet deep, and maybe six feet long.

I was grasping my GPS tightly in my left hand—which may or may not have gone underwater—but at that moment, I had the distinct impression that somebody snatched the GPS out of my hand. I quickly got on my knees to grab it, but it had disappeared. There was no

place it could have gone. It just vanished. I checked the rocks in this tiny pool to see if it was trapped. I called to John and the three went down the banks for several hundred yards to see if it had floated away. There was no trace of it. I realized it was gone forever. We were racing against darkness and could not linger.

Now all I had for navigation was my backup compass and a map of Great Smoky Mountains National Park with an all but worthless scale of one mile per inch. The waypoint where our horses were waiting was gone. If needed, the GPS would have guided us, but getting out of the mountains before dark would depend now on the ancient navigational THE DEATH OF THE BUFFALO EAST OF THE MISSISSIPPI ALTERED THE LIFESTYLE OF ALL TRIBES IN THIS REGION. photo by LAMAR MARSHALL

intuition of the Cherokees.

Tired and banged up, it was tough going with wet boots and soggy hiking socks. It was even tougher trying to keep up with three Cherokees who grew up walking and running these mountains. It was almost dark and I had already resigned myself to a cold, wet night in a space blanket by a fire. But just when it appeared to have become too dark to travel, John called from afar. We moved in increments after each whoop until we arrived at our beloved horses and rode off in the last light.

I have seen many things on this web of paths, but I was left with an eerie feeling over the inexplicable disappearance of my GPS. John believed the Little People took my GPS because it was not meant to be there. I’m not a superstitious person, but I have to concede: there are many things that happen in these mountains that cannot be explained.

The Ghost Dance

Buffalo (or Eastern bison) were trail builders wherever they went. From the time they arrived in the Southeast, they grazed the barrens or prairies of Tennessee and Kentucky, crossed the Appalachians visiting grassy balds and river plains, and wintered in the savannas and swamps of the Carolinas. Indians—and later, white hunters—followed these natural highways.

Mountain passes were the most efficient places for the Cherokee to cross the mountains and the best places to hunt buffalo and other large game traveling to salt

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licks and swamps in the lowlands.

While few archaeological remains such as bones have been found, there are ample accounts and records that testify of buffalo found adjacent to the perimeter of the Carolina and Virginia highlands. Because of such a wide spectrum of elevation and geology, the Eastern Indian tribes contributed to the perpetuation of several grassy habitat types by using fire.

The buffalo was a favorite big game of the Cherokee, who used the flesh as food, the hides for blankets and bedding, and the long hair for spinning articles, including belts. The horn was prized for carving into needles, combs, and spoons.

One of the last records of buffalo in the mountains of Western North Carolina is the oral testimony of Chesquah, or Bird, who was born about 1773 and grew up in Buffalo Town in the Cheoah River, one of the most remote and last strongholds of traditional Cherokees.

Chesquah said that he remembered seeing large herds of buffalo in what is now the Robbinsville area, and that he played stickball at the site of present-day Knoxville when it was but old grassy fields. He stated that he had followed the last buffalo herd across Hooper Bald as it headed west.

An old trail leaves the flats of West Buffalo Creek and crosses King Meadows to Hooper Bald. From there a primary Cherokee trail followed the North River to the Tellico Plains, an area of fifteen or twenty square miles that was covered with rich grasses.

The extirpation of the last Eastern bison contributed to the Cherokee Ghost Dance movement that sprang up between 1811 and 1813, in which both the return of the buffalo and the disappearance of the white man were predicted.

About 1811, a half-Cherokee prophet named Charley traveled to north Georgia to proclaim his 52

B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S / A P R I L 2 01 5

message: the deplorable state of the Indian, he said, was caused by the abandonment of pure traditions and the adoption of the ways and material culture of the white man. He told them that the mills, houses, spinning wheels, clothes, beds, flint and steel fire starters and domestic cats defiled the Indian. For this reason the buffalo, elk, deer, and hunting grounds had largely disappeared. If the Cherokee would believe, obey, paint themselves, dance, and return to the old ways, the game would return and the whites would disappear in a fierce storm of hailstones as large as hominy mortars. In order to be saved from the wrath of the Great Spirit, the Indians must take refuge in a sacred bald, now believed to be Clingmans Dome of the Great Smoky Mountains. Despite attempts by Major Ridge and others to persuade the attendants that Charley’s prediction was not credible, a pilgrimage ensued, and Cherokees were soon seen marching along the Valley River with packs on their backs as they headed for the Smoky Mountains. Some were persuaded by the Valley River residents to turn back, but others remained in the mountains until the determined day of restoration failed to occur.

Today, I believe the mountains are the poorer for the loss of the buffalo and other extirpated and extinct species. The memory of the buffalo lives on in the names of Cherokee ancestors and in the place names across North Carolina and surrounding states. There are Buffalo Creeks, Rivers, Fords, Mountains, Forks, Licks, Valleys, Ridges, Springs and Swamps.

I am thankful for the perseverance of those Cherokees and their few white allies who fought against the discriminatory policies of the early 1800s that would have extirpated the Cherokees from their ancestral homeland. Their story, history and cultural heritage enrich the lives of us all.

SPRING 2015

TIGHT LINES GUIDE TO FLY FISHING IN THE BLUE RIDGE

The Blue Ridge region is an acclaimed blue-ribbon fishing mecca. From stalking beautiful wild brook trout high in the remote mountains, to casting long for smallmouth bass and the mysterious muskie on broad tailwater rivers, there is a style of fishing and a challenge for anglers of all preferences and experience levels. Our annual spring fishing guide is here once again complete with some of the best companies, gear, guides, and destinations to help you get “hooked” this season. Plan your fishing experiences using this guide and also don’t forget to use the interactive downloadable digital version online.

BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM PHOTO: JESS DADDIO

WHERE TO GO

NORTH CAROLINA Cherokee Three River Fly Fishing Tournament - Highlands VIRGINIA Alleghany Highlands Bath County Blue Ridge Highlands Fishing Trail City of Waynesboro Heart of Appalachia Martinsville Mecklenburg Nelson County Smith Mountain Lake Southern Virginia Wild Blueway WEST VIRGINIA West Virginia State Parks

GEAR AND GUIDES ALABAMA Orvis - Birmingham

Orvis - Huntsville GEORGIA Orvis - Alpharetta Orvis - Atlanta Tenkara USA - Southern Highroads Outfitters KENTUCKY Orvis - Louisville MARYLAND Orvis - Bethesda Tenkara USA - Great Feather Fly Shop NORTH CAROLINA Brookings Outfitters - Cashiers Curtis Wright Outfitters - Asheville Curtis Wright Outfitters - Weaverville Davidson River Outfitters - Brevard Headwaters Outfitters - Rosman Hunter Banks - Asheville Hunter Banks - Waynesville Orvis - Asheville Orvis - Charlotte Orvis - Greensboro Orvis - Raleigh

Tenkara USA - Brookings Outfitters Tenkara USA - Davidson River Outfitters Tenkara USA - Great Outdoor Provision Co. Tenkara USA - Headwaters Outfitters Tenkara USA - River’s Edge Outfitters SOUTH CAROLINA Orvis - Greenville Orvis - Myrtle Beach TENNESSEE Orvis - Nashville Orvis - Sevierville Tenkara USA - Rock Creek Outfitters VIRGINIA Front Royal Outdoors Orvis - Arlington Orvis - Charlottesville Orvis - Richmond Orvis - Roanoke Orvis - Tysons Corner Tenkara USA - Mossy Creek Fly Fishing Wynn Cane - Kilgore

WEST VIRGINIA STATE PARKS FISHY HAPPENS IN WEST VIRGINIA’S STATE PARKS Fishing can be a lifelong outdoor activity for any person. A sports for all ages, West Virginia State Parks encourages the young and the young at heart to grab a pole and go fish. Some fishy happenings at West Virginia’s state parks include: FLY-FISHING AT PIPESTEM RESORT Anglers dreaming of remote trout fishing should look at Pipestem Resort’s Fly Fishing Package. Available in spring (March 28 - May 21) and late fall (October 27 – November 22, 2015), the package features overnight accommodations at Mountain Creek Lodge, stocked rainbows, two days of fly fishing with guide service, four meals, and transportation to the remote canyon of the Bluestone National Scenic River. Learn more at www.pipestemresort.com or call 304-466-1800.

TAG! CATCH ME IF YOU CAN In an effort to get families and kids outdoors, West Virginia’s DNR has created a tagging program of stocked fish that encourages anglers to ‘go fish’. When an anglercatches a Tagged Trout and turns in the tag with information, he or she receives a $100 credit award certificate for weekly cabin rentals at designated state parks and forests.

Catfishing in the Parks is an annual program and like the tagged trout, catfish are tagged and anglers receive a free camping night in exchange for the tagged fish information. The program takes places in five state parks: Tomlinson Run, Watoga, Cacapon Resort, Cedar Creek and Pipestem Resort.

A “LAKE-LY” PLACE TO CAST A LINE More than 30 areas in West Virginia’s state park system feature fishing. Streams and rivers supporting small mouth bass and trout include Holly River and Watoga, as two examples. But many lakes including Beech

Fork, Cacapon Resort, North Bend and Pipestem Resort State Parks also invite all ages to cast a line from the shore or a boat.

Marina operations at Bluestone, Tygart, and Stonewall Resort offer broader services from rentals to public fishing access for boaters.

KAYAKING AND CANOEING If you’re looking to paddle, West Virginia state parks have plenty of open waterways, including lakes at North Bend, Tygart Lake, Watoga, Moncove Lake, and Little Beaver, to mention some favorites. These areas also have campgrounds and hiking.

Find all park events, activities, accommodations and packages available at www.wvstateparks.com. Fishing licenses are required and available for purchase online at www.wvfish.com

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PRESENT THIS AD AT ANY ORVIS LOCATION

ALABAMA Birmingham Huntsville GEORGIA Alpharetta Atlanta

KENTUCKY Lousiville MARYLAND Bethesda

NORTH CAROLINA Asheville Charlotte Greensboro Raleigh

SOUTH CAROLINA Greenville Myrtle Beach TENNESSEE Nashville Sevierville

VIRGINIA Arlington Charlottesville Richmond Roanoke Tysons Corner

OFF YOUR PURCHASE OF $50 OR MORE This offer is valid on full-priced merchandise only at Orvis retail stores and dealers. Offer not valid on purchase of merchandise at orvis.com, or through any outlet store, sale event, or catalog. Not valid with any other promotional offer. Not valid on Gift Card purchases, previous merchandise purchases, or sale items. Limit one ad per customer, ad must be presented for discount. No cash value. Coupon valid through 5/31/15.

ORVIS Over 140 years in the outdoor business have taught us something. We like to play hard— we fish, we hunt, we hike, we travel—and we need gear that will keep up with our pursuits.

Many of our workdays involve going from the store or office directly to the river, or squeezing in a morning turkey hunt before an 8am board meeting. “Work hard, play hard” may be old fashioned, but it’s how we operate.

And, we’ve discovered, that’s how our customers like to operate as well. You’re active; you like to get outside any chance you have, fishing and playing and getting your hands dirty. But you also appreciate the finer things in life. Feeling the sharp swing of a laser-focused fly rod. Sipping a mellow gin and tonic while floating down the river.

Reveling in the oh-so-simple comfort of a shirt that fits just right.

We’re proud to be your go-to destination for men’s and women’s clothing, fishing and hunting equipment, home, gift, and pet

goods. And with more stores than ever in the Southeast, we’re ready to be your go-to local store. From Alabama to Tennessee, Florida to North Carolina—all across the region—there is sure to be an Orvis store nearby.

Interested in the sporting lifestyle but not sure where to start? Our stores offer free, inviting Fly Fishing 101 (FF101) classes and a variety of free seminars and classes—go to orvis.com/stores to check out nearby store schedules or sign up online. Our friendly, professional staff enjoys nothing more than introducing someone into fly fishing and wingshooting.

We’re firm believers that one never stops learning, and in that spirit have a selection of fly-fishing and wingshooting schools located across the country. Whether you are looking for a nearby school or are in the mood for a trip, the Orvis schools experience can increase your sporting knowledge in gorgeous, inviting locales. We also have a carefully selected in-house adventure

travel team, ready to help you craft the best possible fishing, hunting, or adventure trip.

Our experts even guide several trips a year, offering you the option to travel with our well-seasoned team.

At Orvis, we live and breathe the sporting lifestyle. We are in this business because we genuinely enjoy it, and look forward to welcoming you into the family.

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QU E ST I O N:

How do you turn every trip outdoors into a fly fishing trip?

With Only a rod, line & fly. ™ What if we told you that all you need for fly-fishing are a rod, line and fly?

No reel. And that the rods telescope down to 20 inches and fit in a pack, in one piece? That’s tenkara. A fly-fishing method from Japan that has created a revolution in the sport in the last few years.

Learn at www.tenkarausa.com or call us at 888–483–6527

TENKARA USA Tenkara is the method of fly-fishing in which only a rod, line and fly are used. The reel is obsolete, unnecessary. A fixed length of line attaches to the tip of the tenkara rod, and you cast the fly to that pocket where the fish may be. Fly-fishing is simple and we want to show you how simple it can be.

The simplicity of tenkara, a Japanese method of fly-fishing, has attracted the attention of those wanting a simpler way to fly-fish. Tenkara is a method that is minimalist by nature but also happens to be the most effective way to fish mountain streams.

Tenkara is not just about the absence of a reel; it shows us a different approach to the sport. With few elements between you and the fish, tenkara can be interpreted as a philosophy that takes fly-fishing down to its most fundamental level. With less gear there

is more freedom to travel farther and add tenkara to other outdoor pursuits.

After discovering tenkara in Japan, Tenkara USA founder Daniel Galhardo recognized tenkara as a perfect tool for mountain fishing and backpacking anywhere.

Over the past few years he’s worked to introduce the simplicity and portability of tenkara to anyone interested in fly-fishing.

While the beauty of tenkara lies in its simplicity, its portability and speedy setup are equally as appealing to the outdoors enthusiast. Tenkara rods are telescopic and an 11-foot rod packs down into a mere 20inch case. Along with a spool of line, tippet and some flies, all you need for fly-fishing fits easily in a pack. Tenkara anglers take their rods on backpacking trips, climbing adventures, mountain bike rides or casual

hikes. You never know when you might find a stream that you’d like to fish.

The vision of Tenkara USA is to introduce tenkara outside of Japan and make fly-fishing part of your outdoor pursuits. Founder Daniel Galhardo has spent months in Japan learning tenkara directly from the masters in Japan to ensure that Tenkara USA products and content are of the highest quality and remain true to the roots of tenkara.

Tenkara USA is the first company to introduce tenkara outside of Japan since 2009. We make a full line of rods, lines, and flies to get you started. Check out our website for more information on tenkara equipment and how tenkara can fit in with your next adventure: www.tenkarausa.com

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FRONT ROYAL OUTDOORS, VA Let Front Royal Outdoors lead you to the ultimate Shenandoah River fishing experience. We offer self-guided canoe, kayak, raft, fishing kayak and stand-up paddleboard trips on the South Fork of the legendary Shenandoah River. Whether you want to float lazily down the river in a tube, hunt the spring lunker in a fishing kayak or create a multi-day adventure, we provide the expertise and knowledge to help you plan the perfect getaway. Once you arrive at our office, all the details, equipment and shuttle service are provided.

Our river trips float north between Virginia’s Shenandoah National Park and the George Washington National Forest on novice to intermediate waters. Trip options include half-day, full-day or multi-day excursions on the clear waters of this smallmouth packed section of the South Fork. Anglers will find some of the finest smallmouth bass fishing in the Mid-Atlantic region through one of Front Royal Outdoors’ special trips for fisherman.

As an authorized Jackson Kayak dealer, we sell the venerable brand’s full fishing kayak line, and for your convenience we also rent the Jackson Coosa and Cuda fishing kayaks. Bait and tackle are available as well.

Come discover for yourself why the Native Americans referred to the Shenandoah as “The Beautiful Daughter of the Stars”.

FRONTROYALOUTDOORS.COM

The View from Our Saddle . . .

Let the Good Times Fly

CITY OF WAYNESBORO, VA In the heart of the scenic Shenandoah Valley, Waynesboro welcomes you to enjoy our abundant recreation and waterways this spring. Nestled nearby iconic landmarks Skyline Drive, the Blue Ridge Parkway and the Appalachian Trail, Waynesboro also boasts an angler’s paradise on the South River. Whether you’re a fly caster or prefer rod and reel, Waynesboro’s waters hold plenty to catch. Our 15thAnnual Virginia Fly Fishing & Wine Festival on April 11-12th is largest outdoor fly fishing event in the country, offering a one-stop experience packed with onstream instruction, gear expos, expert advice, men’s and women’s casting classes, wine tasting, craft beer and live music.

A few weeks later, you’ll find more outdoor family fun at our annual Riverfest celebration on Saturday May 2nd. Activities include Reptile World shows, Stream Safari, presentations by the Wildlife Center of Virginia, Fish and Fun Rodeo, Farmer’s Market, canoe rides, kids arts & crafts and stream electro-fishing with the Virginia Department of Game and Inland Fisheries. It’s all capped off by the Great South River Duck Race!! Find more information for your next adventure at www. visitwaynesboro.net Waynesboro – Where Good Fishing Comes Naturally!

VISITWAYNESBORO.NET

GO FISH! The County of Bath is an enticing place filled with scenic vistas, local flair and exciting adventures just waiting to be discovered.

Find Someing Remarkae

Fly Fishing at The Omni Homestead

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COUNTY OF BATH, VA Nestled in the Virginia’s Western Highlands, the County of Bath is a nature lover’s paradise. Home to the George Washington National Forest, Douthat State Park, Lake Moomaw, Dominion Back Creek Recreational Area and the Jackson and Cowpasture Rivers, the area offers stunning vistas, clear, cold streams and a wide range of recreational opportunities. You can hike or bike the mountainous terrain and fish in the many lakes and rivers scattered throughout the community. The vast woodlands are filled with white tail deer, wild turkey, black bear and many other game animals.

Known for our fly-fishing the streams and most lakes are stocked with brown, brook and rainbow trout. Anglers also catch large and small mouth bass, bluegill, crappies, catfish and more. A community of villages, Bath County is a place where you can unwind and reconnect with nature. Take a gentle journey on the back roads of time to enjoy the scenery. The soothing mineral waters that flow from the natural springs have attracted visitors for over 200 years, even luminaries like Thomas Jefferson and Mrs. Robert E. Lee. In addition to the many outdoor activities, high culture meets the mountains in Bath County. We have art, antique and craft galleries, outstanding concerts and unique dining options.

DISCOVERBATH.COM

FIND COUNTLESS WAYS TO...

Trout, Bass, and More!

Many Special Reg. Streams 5 State Record Catches World-Famous Clinch River Fishing, Outdoor Adventure, Crooked Road Music, and ATV Trails - the Heart of Appalachia has something for everyone!

Visit HEARTofAPPALACHIA.com

HEART OF APPALACHIA, VA The Heart of Appalachia region is teeming with great fishing spots which the locals have managed to keep a secret…until now. Our pristine rivers boast an unmatched variety of fish, numerous special regulation streams, and FIVE State Record Catches.

Our streams, lakes, and rivers showcase species such as rainbow, brown and brook trout, spotted bass, smallmouth bass, walleye, sauger, largemouth bass, rock bass, redbreast sunfish, longear and bluegill sunfish and catfish, as well as musky, black crappie and freshwater drum.

The Clinch River, the most bio-diverse river in the Western Hemisphere, flows through our region offering 135 miles of the nation’s greatest concentration of rare and imperiled freshwater animals.

Supporting up to 46 species, the Clinch River is habitat to rare mussels, colorful minnows and darters and excellent sport fish.

The Heart of Appalachia also has lots of ways to ELEVATE your heart rate including hiking, biking, ATV riding, kayaking, canoeing and more.

Afterward, you can relax with mountain sunsets, scenic drives, wildlife watching, wineries, museums, shopping and the music of the Crooked Road. So bring your buddies, your sweetie or the whole family. Our region offers affordable furloughs with comfortable accommodations, charming and historic towns and stunning scenic backdrops for your angling adventures. Free brochures are available.

HEARTOFAPPALACHIA.COM

e water h t er v o

Humpback Bridge is one of the most cherished landmarks in Virginia. Enjoy a picnic in the park and find the right angle for a perfect photo.

Then, jump in for swimming, paddling, fishing and even camping on the rivers and lakes of the Alleghany Highlands Blueway.

on t he w ater

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ALLEGHANY HIGHLANDS, VA The Alleghany Highlands Blueway is comprised of two lakes and two scenic rivers that offer great paddling, fishing and boating opportunities.

JACKSON RIVER The jewel of Virginia’s Allegheny Mountains, the wild and scenic Jackson River enters the Alleghany Highlands from Gathright Dam on Lake Moomaw. Nearly 30 miles of the Jackson River wind through the Alleghany Highlands, with two small segments closed to the public due to private property. The Jackson meets the Cowpasture River near the town of Iron Gate to form the headwaters of the James River, which flows all the way to the Chesapeake Bay. Several small streams that feed into the Jackson River, including Dunlap Creek and Potts Creek, also offer excellent fishing opportunities.

COWPASTURE RIVER Approximately 10 miles of the Cowpasture

River flows through the eastern portion of the Alleghany Highlands. Paddling on the Cowpasture offers a few easy rapids and great views of the surrounding mountains.

Near Iron Gate, the Cowpasture meets the Jackson River to form the James River, which flows through neighboring Botetourt and Rockbridge Counties on its way to the Chesapeake Bay. DOUTHAT LAKE Not only is Douthat State Park one of Virginia’s oldest state parks, it’s one of its finest. The Outside Family Vacation Guide named Douthat State Park one of the nation’s 10 best. Its contribution to the Alleghany Highlands Blueway is Douthat Lake, a 50-acre lake with swimming, boating and seasonal trout fishing.

LAKE MOOMAW Lake Moomaw is the northernmost portion of the Alleghany Highlands Blueway. The lake,

which is shared by the Alleghany Highlands and the County of Bath, has 43 miles of undeveloped, wooded shoreline, just perfect for exploring by canoe or kayak yet large enough for sailing and motorboats. Add beautiful campsites and world-class fishing and you’ve got a perfect vacation.

Located in the western part of the Commonwealth of Virginia along the border of West Virginia, the Alleghany Highlands is about a one hour drive from Roanoke and approximately three hours from Richmond, Washington, D.C., and Charleston, W.Va. Historic Humpback Bridge and the present day Alleghany Highlands Blueway are both great reasons to visit. Enjoy the beauty and craftsmanship of the bridge then hit the water for paddling, tubing, fishing and swimming in the pristine mountain lakes and rivers of the Alleghany Highlands. Experience history over the water and good, clean fun on it.

VISITALLEGHANYHIGHLANDS.COM/HUMPBACK

FISH THE BLUE With 18 popular fishing destinations including lakes, rivers, creeks, and runs, Southwest Virginia is an ideal fly fishing destination. For more information on the Blue Ridge Highlands Fishing Trail, visit

FISHBLUERIDGE.COM.

BLUE RIDGE HIGHLANDS FISHING TRAIL, VA SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA OFFERS PREMIER FISHING Long known for an abundance of scenic beauty and a variety of outdoor recreation, Southwest Virginia also offers a memorable angling experience for fishing enthusiasts of all ages. Showcasing 18 premier fishing locations in a four-county area (Grayson, Smyth, Washington, Wythe), the Blue Ridge Highlands Fishing Trail brings together some of the most interesting locations for successful fishing experiences that Virginia has to offer.

With the backdrop of the breathtaking views of the Blue Ridge Mountains, anglers can experience the serene relaxation that the sport is known for. From small creeks to large lakes and rivers, there’s a variety of fishing opportunities available for all skill levels of anglers. Smallmouth Bass, Walleye, Catfish, Musky, many types of Trout and other species can all be found in the waters of Southwest Virginia. Those who enjoy fly fishing will be

especially pleased with the opportunities found in these waters. Hundreds of thousands of acres of state and national parks, forests and nature preserves are just waiting to be discovered and explored.

Some examples of locations that are especially popular with anglers include the multiple state parks that around found in the region such as Grayson Highlands, Hungry Mother and New River Trail offer a variety of water activities. North and South Forks of the Holston River are premier fishing locations, especially with those who enjoy fly fishing.

The New River has several access points and anglers have been known to pull citation catches for these waters. Each county also has several lakes that offer quiet, seclusion for your fishing experience.

Combine this with a limitless selection of authentic and distinctive things to see and do and you have a memorable getaway for the entire family. While offering the remote seclusion of a rural location, the area is

conveniently located to major interstates 81 and 77. Interesting small towns are easily accessible that give a glimpse into the heritage and culture of this distinctive part of Appalachia. Rooted in history as old as this nation, these small communities offer a surprising selection of accommodations, culinary and dining venues, as well as the arts. Music is the backbone of the Southwest Virginia experience with a strong presence in the form of concerts, jams, and festivals throughout the year. The towns of Abingdon, Marion, and Wytheville make excellent hubs to begin your visit to the region.

The fish are waiting. Start your next fishing getaway in Southwest Virginia. For more information regarding how to plan your next memorable angling getaway, visit the trail website at www.FishBlueRidge.com.

FISHBLUERIDGE.COM

Water Power.

Join us for our next event,

the Occaneechi Indian Pow-Wow

Perfected over 250 years.

in Chase City on

Saturday, May 2 nd, 2015 visit www.visitmeckva.com/meck250.aspx for more details

The healing waters of Mecklenburg County were once so famous that people traveled great distances to experience their mystical powers. In the 1880s, it was bottled and sold across the country and overseas. People still visit from all over to enjoy the waters and experience a different kind of healing. Today, visitors reconnect with nature as they enjoy paddling, fishing and wildlife viewing on Virginia’s largest lake.

Join our year long celebration. Get insider info and offers in a special 250th anniversary e-newsletter.

visitmeckva.com #moremeck

MECKLENBURG COUNTY, VA Set in the rural countryside of Southern Virginia, Mecklenburg County holds an idyllic landscape highlighted by 70,000 acres of water and 1,200 miles of shoreline to explore.

Anglers covet the area for the abundance of fishing opportunities in Kerr Lake (best known to locals as Bugg’s Island Lake), as well as Lake Gaston and the lesser-known gem Lake Gordon. This outdoor mecca is only an hour and a half from both Richmond and Raleigh/Durham, right on the Virginia/ North Carolina border.

Celebrating its 250th anniversary throughout 2015, Mecklenburg County offers visiting anglers a number of events to enhance their trip and entertain their families.

Even if the wife and kids aren’t into fishing, they’ll find an array of events, interactive farms, attractions, lake activities and even day trips throughout the region. But if you’re lucky and they’re into fishing, get ready for a family fishing paradise.

Even kayak fishing has become extremely

popular in Mecklenburg County. Anglers putin at Kerr Dam at the Tailrace Park from the handicap accessible kayak launch opened through the efforts of the Upper Reach organization, a local nonprofit dedicated to creating recreation opportunities throughout Southern Virginia. “We’re trying to bring kayaking and outdoor recreation to the community,” says Upper Reach member Doug Miley, who’s also a local fishing guide with Frog Hollow Outpost.

In nationally known Kerr Lake, Virginia’s largest with 50,000 acres of fresh water and over 800 miles of shoreline, anglers will find plenty of opportunities to pull largemouth bass, stripers, walleye and crappie. The lake also boasts a world record catch for the largest blue catfish at 143 pounds back in 2011. It was also voted the best lake in North America for catching giant crappie by In Fisherman magazine.

“Our fish population has become quite diverse,” adds Miley. “With so much to catch,

it’s starting to bring a lot of visitors to the area.”

A popular spot for paddling and fly fishing is the Meherrin River, which was recently designated a National Scenic Waterway, where anglers can pull small mouth bass and the occasional trout. During fishing trips the area has a variety of accommodations, including hotels, cabin rentals, and an abundance of lakeside camping options.

For more information on fishing and outdoor recreation in Mecklenburg County visit VisitMeckVA.com. Another valuable resource is the Upper Reach website (upperreach.org), which offers interactive maps that cover the area waterways.

VISITMECKVA.COM/MECK250.ASPX

RIGHT NOW, hundreds of miles of scenic, R

undeveloped shoreline are waiting to be explored.

Discover the one blueway that includes three rivers and two lakes.

SoVaWildBlueway.com Share your adventure on

Join for our Join us onusyour visitnext for event,

THE KING’S BRIDGE the Occaneechi LAUNCH DEDICATION Indian Pow-Wow in the town of halifax on in Chase City on 2 nd, 2015 Friday,Saturday, April 24thMay , 2015

visit www.visitmeckva.com/meck250.aspx ViSit WWW.SoVAWILDBLUEWAY.CoM for morefor DetailS more details

RIGHT NOW, you belong on the

Southern Virginia WilD BlueWay.

#WildBlueway

SOVA WILD BLUEWAY, VA Imagine a paddling experience unlike any other: Over one hundred miles of navigable rivers, leading to 1,200 miles of beautiful lake shoreline. Unspoiled wilderness and abundant fish and wildlife, just a short drive from major cities. Waterfront camping and no crowds, just minutes from great restaurants, hotels and outfitters. All along one freshwater trail that’s perfect for a few hours in a canoe with the kids, or a few days in the kayak with your friends.

RIVER EXPERIENCE Canoeing the blueway’s three rivers — the Dan, the Staunton (or Roanoke) and the Banister — combine for more than 100 miles of navigable water. Of that, over 80 miles have been designated as Virginia Scenic River across all three of these rivers. Some sections of the Blueway’s rivers pass through historic waterfront towns, but far more is completely undeveloped, allowing you to paddle for miles and see more osprey or bald

eagles than other humans. Fishing along the rivers is exceptional, with the Staunton River being known as one of the best spots for inland striper fishing on the East Coast.

Since much of the land is public, you can pull over your canoe or kayak and enjoy a break or leisurely picnic lunch along much of the Blueway.

At some places on the Blueway, you feel a million miles away, yet great food, accommodations and other interesting sites are close by when you want them. In South Boston, restaurants, supplies and even a unique arts venue are all within walking distance of the Blueway.

LAKE EXPERIENCE Kerr Lake (known locally as Bugg’s Island Lake) and Lake Gaston make up the flatwater portion of the Blueway. The lakes combine for more than 1,200 miles of shoreline, much of which is public and undeveloped on the Virginia side. Boat

ramps and access points are plentiful, allowing you to enjoy the lakes for quick trips or longer excursions.

Kerr Lake, in particular, is known for its excellent fishing, with a world record 143-pound blue catfish caught in its waters in 2011. For anglers looking for a more unique experience, on the western end of Kerr Lake is the only bridge-mounted nighttime fishing light system in the United States, so you can start earlier and fish later. The bridge is located near the charming lakefront town of Clarksville, where paddlers can head to shore and stroll through town for great food or a craft beer. All told, both Kerr Lake and Lake Gaston make the Blueway even more special than the typical river-only blueways you may be used to. Plan your trip today at SoVAWildBlueway.com

SOVAWILDBLUEWAY.COM

For a FREE Visitor’s Guide: visitsmithmountainlake.com or 540.721.1203.

500 miles of glistening shoreline nestled in the Blue Ridge Mountains. Year-round appeal. History & Wine anytime.

Fish. Boat. Golf. Dine. Shop.

SMITH MOUNTAIN LAKE, VA

MARTINSVILLE, VA

Making your plans for a short getaway or extended vacation? Consider Smith Mountain Lake, the “Jewel of the Blue Ridge.” A short drive from Roanoke, Lynchburg, Rocky Mount and even Greensboro, this incredible travel destination has something for all ages and every interest.

Smith Mountain Lake stretches 40 miles in length with 500 miles of shoreline nestled in the Blue Ridge Mountains. Whether you’re seeking a day at the beach, water sports, a fishing excursion, a round of golf, hiking trails, bike ride or a glimpse of history, Smith Mountain Lake provides ample opportunities for everyone.

The Smith River, located in Martinsville-Henry County, Virginia, is known for its native brown trout fishery. Fly fishermen cast to these trout yearround in Philpott Lake which keeps the water cool and fish active. The VDGIF stocks portions of the river, which travels 44.5 miles across Henry County, with rainbow trout as part of their put-and-take-program. Its character welcomes every fishing style. From the river, you can admire scenic beauty including Native American fish weirs from the 1300’s.

After fishing, explore the arts and cultural scene of the area which features eight museums and galleries, studios, live music and theatrical performances.

VISITSMITHMOUNTAINLAKE.COM

fish. nelson style.

VISITMARTINSVILLE.COM

NELSON COUNTY, VA Nelson County offers a variety of fishing opportunities. With two scenic rivers running through the scenic countryside, it’s an ideal location to visit if you are seeking solitude among the bounty of beauty in the Blue Ridge Mountains. Visitors can cast in the idyllic Tye River with the echoes of the famous Crabtree Falls cascading in the forested backdrop. Anglers can also pull smallmouth bass out of the Rockfish River—a vibrant tributary of the mighty James River.

In addition to the county’s two rivers, fishing enthusiasts will find plenty of fish in Lake Nelson, a 40-acre impoundment managed by the Virginia Department of Game and Inland Fisheries. With opportunities for a range of anglers from beginners to experts, Lake Nelson holds chances to catch largemouth bass, channel catfish, black crappie, bluegill, and redear sunfish. After a day on the water visit the county’s hard cidery or one of many wineries, craft breweries, and distilleries.

nelson county VIRGINIA

Nelson County Visitors Center nelsoncounty.com 434.263.7015

NELSONCOUNTY.COM

photo by ALEXANDER LECK

LONG ROAD BACK

HOW AN INJURY BECAME THE BEST THING THAT EVER HAPPENED TO ME

by CHRIS GRAGTMANS CONTROL IS A FLEETING THING. Being a kayaker, I should have known that, but as I charged the rapids in the GoPro Mountain Games Steep Creek Race in Vail, Colorado, I felt very much in control. I was in the best shape of my life, racing a specially designed boat that I helped create, as part of a career that I loved. The cable cam zipping above me, the crowd on the side of the river, and the announcer’s echoing voice made me feel like a rock star.

As I powered past the halfway point in the course, I lined up an innocuous five foot drop. I wasn’t worried about this rapid after nailing the line in practice all week, but as I dropped in, my body twisted in a strange way. I lost balance and started rolling left, extending my paddle reflexively in an attempt to save the flip. As I braced, the end of my blade caught a rock, and jerked my arm violently. With the paddle lodged, my boat and body kept going, and I felt and heard my shoulder ripping apart as my arm rotated past where it ever had before.

I knew how serious shoulder injuries were for kayakers. They almost never heal on their own, dislocating again and again, and even with surgery, they often still spell the end of a competitive career.

As I rolled up with my other arm, the crushing disappointment of the situation quickly turned to

primal fear in the face of a chaotic river. I was in the middle of an angry class V rapid with only one functioning arm. With my left shoulder grinding and shooting pain, I placed the paddle on my good side and realized that I was probably about to get mangled and much more hurt. I felt extremely vulnerable. Any semblance of control was long gone.

Miraculously, I floated straight and true through all three heinous drops, waves and holes crashing over me from all directions, and popped out within sight of the finish line. As I doubled over and cradled my arm, the announcer went silent, and my friends who had just finished their runs stared at me in horror. There wasn’t much to say. The party was over.

I slowly slipped back to consciousness in the surgery room to my girlfriend Ashley sitting beside me, and nonsensical words coming out of the doctor’s mouth. The world was hazy and the whole left side of my body was numb from my fingers to my chest.

Ashley and I slowly walked out to her car, and I felt hollow and without purpose. That began a four week period where I needed a lot of help to get even basic tasks done. Taking a shower, cutting a steak, putting jeans on, or signing a check—every painful action required assistance.

While I sat at home doing hours and hours of PT, my athletic relevancy slipped away. Friends stopped calling to go paddling or biking; they didn’t want to rub it in that they were having fun while I was hurt.

The paddling community forgot about me. Silence can be deafening.

The primary solace from these worries and the pain of my injury was drugs. I found myself looking

ABOVE: ELITE KAYAKER CHRIS GRAGTMANS REQUIRED SHOULDER SURGERY AFTER AN INJURY DURING THE GOPRO MOUNTAIN GAMES. BELOW: GRAGTMANS RECOVERS IN THE HOSPITAL AFTER SURGERY.

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forward to the high dosage of Percocet prescribed to me every day, and I can now see why these chemicals cause such big problems for people. I didn’t feel sorry for myself when I was high, but I also knew that road led nowhere good.

Then, suddenly, it was as if the momentum of my life redirected.

The endless physical therapy hours started to slowly pay off, with motion returning to the shoulder joint one agonizing degree at a time. My therapist approved me to go trail running. The endorphins of motion sparked my brain and filtered everything through a more positive lens.

There are two ways to approach any setback in life: you can blame that event and let it defeat you, or you can acknowledge it as an opportunity to explore things in life that might have been overlooked. I did my best to shift to the latter as time went on. And the drug bottle stayed on the shelf.

My injury was a reminder to have compassion for those who live their entire lives with challenges far greater than my petty (and temporary) discomfort.

Best of all, the downtime gave me the opportunity to cement every important personal and professional relationship that I had, most especially my relationship with Ashley.

I’ve experienced some very intense things in my life, but nothing that I have ever done on the river has come close to the intensity of kneeling in front of her on a panoramic mountain ridge just before sunset and asking her to be my bride.

Located 2.8 miles from the Appalachian Trail in Waynesboro, VA, Rockfish Gap Outfitters has been outfitting any and everyone for the last 28 years.

Come on by and visit us or check us out at RockfishGapOutfitters.com We are the gateway to your next adventure!

1461 E. Main St., Waynesboro, VA | 540-943-1461

photo by DRAGONFLYLIVE.COM

EASTERN HELLBENDER LARGE APPALACHIAN FRESHWATER SALAMANDER

HELLBENDER PHOTO CREDIT: BRIAN-GRATWICKE

HELLBENT ON PROTECTING APPALACHIA

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MIMI’S RUN 5K

Benefiting Cardiovascular Research

Proceeds Benefit The UVA Heart & Vascular Center

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A P R I L 2 01 5 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

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2015 SPEAKERS Lefty Kreh • Bob Clouser • Beau Beasley • Ed Jaworowski Blane Chocklett • Walt Cary • Captain Gary Dubiel • Jon Hooper Pat Cohen • Cory Routh • Tom Gilmore • Don Kirk • Steve Vorkapich

*NEW for 2015

Free Boy Scouts of America Fly Fishing Merit Badge Classes & Family Fly Fishing Classes, Ladies Only Fly Casting Classes

Advance tickets, fly fishing class registrations & program information: vaflyfishingfestival.org

THE GOODS

0 4 . 15

KELLER’S PICKS

PRO KAYAKER SHARES HIS GO-TO GEAR CHOICES

by GRAHAM AVERILL

PAT KELLER IS HAVING A MOMENT. The 28-year-old pro kayaker is known for his waterfall first descents (he bagged Linville Falls and the 100foot Ozone Falls) as well as being a repeat winner of the coveted Green Race. But this past year, he took it up a notch, winning the Great Falls Race and the inaugural Rey del Rio Waterfall World Championships in the Mexican state of Chiapas. There, he battled the world’s top boaters over three back to back waterfalls—a 25-footer, a 55-footer and a 35-footer— in a single run judged on style and line choice. Later in the year, he pulled a third place finish at The Green Race, just three months after breaking his collar bone.

The cherry on top of all that success? Keller just left his day job in the finance world to work full time at Liquid Logic, where he’s helped design a new high performance river runner.

“I’ve known the owners for as long as I’ve been in a kayak. [Owner] Shane Benedict was one of my instructors when I was 12, 13 years old,” Keller says.

“To be amongst their ranks now is a dream come true.” photo by SCOTT MARTIN

LIQUID LOGIC BRAAAAP We blended creek boat ease with the rocker profile of the play boat, and then mixed in a little bit of Olympic style slalom boats, which are designed to go really fast. It’s a high performance, all around river runner. Really fast, really zippy, really comfortable, but I can also play in it and have a good time. MSRP to be determined; liquidlogickayaks.com WERNER SHO-GUN The boat is where you connect with the water, but the paddle is your motor. This foam core, carbon fiber paddle is really light weight but really durable. I like it because it allows for a little bit of buoyancy, and acts as an outrigger. $350; wernerpaddles.com ASTRAL GREEN JACKET When you spend so much time running creeks, the rescue PFD is key. We all set safety for each other, and have a military-style sense of duty to our boating partners. This is the top of the line rescue PFD, with all kinds of safety features—reinforced shoulders, knife tab, rope, and storage. $249; astraldesigns.com IMMERSION RESEARCH LUCKY CHARM When you’re running big stuff like waterfalls, you don’t want that skirt to pop. The Lucky Charm is built really well. It’s as bomber as a spray skirt gets. $235; immersionresearch.com WATERSHED OCOEE DRY BAG I don’t leave home without this bag. The Ocoee is the perfect size for day trips, and it also doubles as a man purse if you have to cruise through an airport. They also make the Chatuga, my go-to for overnight paddling trips. $105 for the Ocoee; drybags.com A P R I L 2 01 5 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

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THEN & NOW

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THE EVOLUTION OF KAYAKING CELEBRATING TWO DECADES OF PADDLE PORN AND BOOTIE BEERS

by JESS DADDIO Kayakers. If you’re not one, or you don’t know one, you might not understand this species of athlete. From afar, it likely seems downright bizarre that a group of people should choose to spend their free time under layers of space-age garb, drinking beer out of their soggy shoes, and rejoicing in the seemingly foulest of weather. It’s a unique culture, no doubt, one that celebrates both individualism and the camaraderie of a crew, safety first but fun first-est.

Kayakers have the uncanny ability to go with the flow. One day they may paddle off downstream, receive an ass whooping, discover at the take-out that they locked their keys in the car, yet still come back the next day for another run. They’re tough and humble, rowdy yet calculated, but if there’s one characteristic that speaks to kayakers as a whole, it’s this: they are pretty damn innovative.

Over the past 20 years in particular, kayakers and the sport they love have evolved at a surprisingly rapid pace. I’m hitting the rewind button on all of this progress and taking a look back at the dawn of change, to the days of 13-foot glass kayaks and VHS paddle porn, which helped spur the growth of not just a sport but an identity and a way of life.

IN THE BEGINNING… The forebears of whitewater kayaking—the Inuits— knew how to roll a kayak well before there was any C-to-C or back deck roll. Similarly, I can’t continue the trajectory of the kayakers’ evolution without mentioning the sport’s one-bladed brethren, the open boater. Many of the best kayakers in the world—Eli Helbert, Dave “Psycho” Simpson, Bob Foote, and Jim Michaud—cut their teeth between the gunwales of an Old Town Canoe.

Early on, kayakers didn’t have flow gauges or American Whitewater to give them beta. There was no BoaterTalk to hash out access issues or gear swaps. No, these paddlers used their resourcefulness and made weekend plans the ol’ fashioned way—by showing up at the take-out on the day of.

“Kayaking was way less cool in the mid-90s,” says longtime paddler and whitewater guidebook author Leland Davis. “Back then, if you ran class V whitewater, you probably knew almost everyone that also ran class V in your area.”

The whitewater world was a melting pot of people and gear. Some were rocking fiberglass boats like the Dagger Crossfire, on average close to 13 feet in length. Others styled the hottest boat on the market, which, according to Davis, was the Dagger Freefall LT. Soon, plastic boats half the size of their glass

photo by JESS DADDIO A P R I L 2 01 5 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

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THEN & NOW

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predecessors dominated the river. Slalom racers abandoned their long boats for the more maneuverable Dagger RPMs and Pyranha Acro-bat 270s, thus breathing life into a playboating revolution.

Suddenly, it wasn’t enough that you could sprint down a river. Kayakers everywhere were rock splatting and cartwheeling and freewheelin’ their way through every hole and wave available. Friendly competition between paddlers sent the freestyle game through the roof, and with new tricks came new boats and new identities. You could speed through slalom courses or loop in a playboat, boof down creeks or blast holes in a squirt boat. As Jess Whittemore, a founding father of modern playboating, once put it: “It was a renaissance of kayaking.”

All of that creativity eventually manifested itself in early videos of first descents, epic carnage, and sick tricks. The early ‘90s saw some of the first paddle porns from guys like Wayne Gentry, whose Southern Fried Creekin’ was groundbreaking for its time.

Once YouTube arrived in the early 2000s, the kayaking video scene exploded.

Lunch Video Magazine (LVM) dominated the game for years, bringing whitewater entertainment and beta to desktops worldwide. Kayaking industries sponsored boaters to live on the road and paddle around the globe, competing and hucking and “living the dream.” Their documented paddling exploits would inspire the next generation to abandon convention and, unsurprisingly, live out of a van down by the river.

DEMSHITZ was born out of the cross-country ramblings of three sponsored paddlers on tour for Pyranha Kayaks—David Fusilli and brothers Jared and Graham Seiler. The word, coined by fellow paddler Dave George in Missoula, Mont., the summer of 2006, was at its core an inside joke, a silly way of saying “those guys” or “them shits.” “We laughed about DEMSHITZ all summer,” Fusilli remembers,

run better. walk better. live better.

run better. walk better. live better. www.crozetrunning.com | 434-205-4452 facebook.com/crozetrunning | @CrozetRunning

www.crozetrunning.com | 434-205-4452 facebook.com/crozetrunning | @CrozetRunning 72

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“eventually we made some stickers…”

From there, DEMSHITZ grew into something Fusilli and all DEMSHITZ never could have imagined. It became a brand, a community of paddlers who emphasized good times over good scores or first descents.

“What it stands for is the ability to not give a rip and do what you love,” Fusilli says. “Having fun is really what DEMSHITZ stands for, in whatever you are doing in your life, [but] not sitting around and thinking about it, actually getting out there and gettin’ some.”

From DEMSHITZ came the “brown claw,” (imagine a reverse toilet paper grab) the motorcycle wave of the kayaking world. Nowadays, you’d be hard-pressed to drive a carful of boats through any river hub (say, Friendsville, Md., or Fayetteville, W.Va.) and not pass someone throwing a brown claw out the window at you.

Consequently, the word “brown” quickly became associated with running “the gnar,” which really didn’t have to be gnarly at all—it could be a class I stretch of river done on a stand-up paddleboard.

It all sounds silly, but what Fusilli and the Seilers meant is that life’s too short to take so seriously, especially when it comes to kayaking. The result has been a mix of backgrounds and cultures and careers converging on the river, a unique group of people who value the present moment and the adventurous spirit within.

Despite the growing popularity of whitewater kayaking, the community surrounding the sport remains as tight-knit as ever. Sure, you might not recognize every paddler on the river, but the kayaking world continues to act like one big family that welcomes you with open arms, a beer for your bootie, and a brown claw to boot.

Paddle on, y’all.

APPALACHIAN TRAIL DAYS DAMASCUS, VA • MAY 15-17, 2015 TRAILDAYS.US

TRAIL MIX

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BANDS TO WATCH

20 BLUE RIDGE BANDS ON THE VERGE OF BIGGER THINGS

by JEDD FERRIS PEOPLE’S BLUES OF RICHMOND Richmond, Va. Things get heavy with this psychedelic rock power trio that blends the power of Deep Purple with the quirk of Modest Mouse. A ripping live show has earned these upstarts recent support gigs with JJ Grey & Mofro and J. Roddy Walston & the Business.

MIPSO Chapel Hill, N.C. The title of this fresh-faced newgrass quartet’s latest album Dark Holler Pop sums up its sound: a solid foundation in traditional picking mingled with the indie sensibilities of Nickel Creek.

ERIN AND THE WILDFIRE Charlottesville, Va. The soulful vocals of front woman Erin Lunsford lead this quartet that sonically mingles bluesy roots rock with vintage R&B grooves. A contest win earned the group a stage spot at last fall’s Lockn’ Music Festival.

THE HONEYCUTTERS Asheville, N.C. With a soothing voice steeped in heartache, singer Amanda Anne Platt fronts this acoustic quintet that plays authentic honky tonk tunes brimming with the influence of living in Appalachia. The band’s latest album, me oh my, drops on April 21.

THE BLACK CADILLACS Knoxville, Tenn.

These Knoxville indie rockers keep gaining fans with tight song craft and a versatile sound that moves between soulfully restrained and wildly anthemic.

MATTHEW E. WHITE Richmond, Va. The multi-talented White started the independent label Spacebomb Records and led the lauded avant-garde jazz ensemble Fight the Big Bull. Lately he’s become indie famous for his solo work, which includes the new relaxed soulrock effort Fresh Blood.

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photo by ALYSSE GAFKJEN

AMERICAN AQUARIUM Raleigh, N.C. Fans of the Drive-By Truckers and Lucero should take notice of this gritty alt-country act from Raleigh. If you need an endorsement, Jason Isbell produced the group’s 2012 album Burn.

Flicker.Die, but its best work just came out in the recently released Wolves.

Front man BJ Barham kicked the bottle and poured out gritty confessions draped in distorted twang.

FOLK SOUL REVIVAL Wise, Va. This hardworking Americana outfit from Virginia coal country plays a rowdy, roots-swirling brand of acoustic rock, bringing in elements of delta blues and vintage country that complement the gritty soulful vocals from lead singer Daniel Davis.

SUNLINER Nelson County, Va. This electric country-rock side project features Travis Book, bassist for The Infamous Stringdusters, and his successful singer-songwriter wife Sarah Siskind.

CHAMOMILE AND WHISKEY Nelson County, Va. This group’s boisterous mountain rock covers plenty of territory in the roots music landscape, moving deftly between old-time foot-stompers, gritty gypsy jams, and hard-edged country punk.

THIS MOUNTAIN Johnson City, Tenn.

An easy sell for fans of My Morning Jacket, this roots-driven outfit has

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a sound that moves deftly between mellow alt-country and full-on distorted twang rock—all tied together with layered harmonies that add a soulful edge.

SWAMPCANDY Annapolis, Md. This Maryland duo plays down-anddirty acoustic blues, paying homage to hill country heroes like Junior Kimbrough. The group’s relentless attack of gritty slide guitar and stomping beats was impressive enough to take first place at last year’s On the Rise competition at FloydFest.

JIM WHITE VS THE PACKWAY HANDLE BAND Athens, Ga. Members of newgrass outfit Packway Handle Band teamed up with underground psychedelic folk bard Jim for Take It Like A Man, a collaborative string-band set filled with White’s patented sublime strangeness.

KYLE JAMES HAUSER Louisville, Ky. Like fellow Kentucky-based versatile stringed songwriter Ben Sollee, the banjo-toting Hauser possess a haunting soulful voice that delivers open-hearted lyrics about love and loss.

GILL LANDRY Nashville, Tenn.

A Louisiana native, Landry spends most of his time these days in a supporting role as a member of Old Crow Medicine Show. The self-titled effort is a dusty singer-songwriter set that’s highlighted by compelling introspection and a hint of Cajun mood.

LEE BAINES III & THE GLORY FIRES Birmingham, Ala. Formerly of the Dexateens, Baines has put together a new crew to deliver Southern-fried garage rock filled with epic hooks and plenty of distorted twang.

ANNABELLE’S CURSE Bristol, Va. The border town indie folk quintet blends soaring vocal harmonies with literate introspection akin to the Decemberists.

MANDOLIN ORANGE Chapel Hill, N.C. This acoustic duo delivers poignant progressive folk tunes that draw on a range of influences, including early Appalachian mountain songs and vintage country ballads.

EMILY HEARN Athens, Ga. Hearn got a big notoriety push after funnyman Bill Murray appeared in the video for her sunny pop song “Rooftop” back in 2010. Only 24, the Athens songstress is ripe for a breakout with her latest album Hourglass.

PGRASS Richmond, Va. Jam band tangents meet nimble-fingered picking in this new collaboration between Brock Butler of Perpetual Groove and Americana outfit James Justin & Co. WE LOVE PLAYLISTS!

Discover new tunes— Trail Mix playlists at BlueRidgeOutdoors.com

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