Blue Ridge Outdoors March 2016

MARCH 2016

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Best Streams Along the Blue Ridge Parkway to Tie One On

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March 2016 CONTENTS

WHEN YOU STOP, IT’S TO TAKE IN THE VIEW.

NOT TO TAKE OFF YOUR BOOTS.

FEATURES

photo by STEVE YOCOM

DEPARTMENTS

9 QUICK HITS

100-Mile Challenge • New A.T. Record • Professor vs. bear hunters

10 FLASHPOINT

Is fire better than logging for restoring the Chattooga River’s health?

29 THE GOODS

Nine expert-selected items that every angler needs.

58 TRAIL MIX

Long Journey Home: Lucinda Williams revisits her Southern roots.

COVER PHOTO BY

31 BEHIND THE LENS

Seven top regional photographers offer their field-tested insights and their favorite places to shoot.

39 WHY WE GO

What inspires thru-hikers to tackle the A.T.? For Chris Gallaway, the answer is simple: love.

47 BATTLEFIELD

A white runner at Atlanta’s Kennesaw Mountain is an unexpected minority.

51 WATER WARRIORS

After visiting Africa to witness firsthand the life-saving impacts of clean water, Jess Daddio returns home to examine water quality in her Blue Ridge backyard.

MEN’S BRIDG ER M ID B dr y / SUDAN /

Savvy anglers have used the Blue Ridge Parkway to reach their favorite mountain streams. Next time you head to the mountains with a 5 weight in tow, use this guide to best fly fishing along the two-lane scenic byway.

OBO ZFO OTWE AR.CO M

15 FLY WAY

TRUE TO THE TRAIL

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MOST PHOTOGENIC SPOT? JENNIFER PHARR DAVIS

KATIE SOURIS Sitting atop

Roan Highlands when the rhododendron are blooming in June.

Shining Rock, last ten minutes before sunset, height of summer.

BETTINA FREESE Max Patch

DUSTY ALLISON Sunrise after scrambling atop the Chimneys in Linville Gorge.

has the most expansive views and panoramic shots for sunrises, sunsets, moonrises, and galactic shows.

LEAH WOODY Grandview Rim Trail in the New River Gorge, W.Va, where you can see into one of the deepest sections of the New River Gorge to the river snaking below.

JOHNNY MOLLOY Charlies Bunion just after a spring snow storm blows through.

WILL HARLAN The Art Loeb Trail through Shining Rock Wilderness. It's raw, wild Appalachia at its best.

AARON WEST Clingmans Dome on a clear day.

JESSICA PORTER Max Patch in North Carolina. It looks like it's Photoshopped.

BEAU BEASLEY Rapidan River in Shenandoah National Park: verdant forest and the clear, quiet pools.

JOHN BRYANT BAKER Rams Head on Beauty Mountain, on the rim of the New River Gorge, in the fall.

MARTIN RADIGAN Bear Rocks in Dolly Sods Wilderness during fall.

The huckleberry and blueberry bushes turn a brilliant red against the gray sandstone.

CHRIS SCOTT Along the North Fork Mountain Trail in the Spruce KnobSeneca Rocks National Recreation Area.

MASON ADAMS The Art Loeb Trail offers panoramic vistas, abundant blueberries, and amazing birdlife.

ERYN GABLE Piedmont Overlook Trail in Sky Meadows State Park, which offers amazing views of the Crooked Run Valley.

DANIELLE TAYLOR The trails around Harpers Ferry offer incredible views of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers.

TIMO HOLMQUIST On top of the Mount Sterling Fire Tower at sunset on a clear winter’s eve.

GORDON WADSWORTH McAfee Knob, Va. offers the best natural seating to soak in the scenery.

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BEYOND THE BLUE RIDGE

SHORTS

BLUE RIDGE BRIEFS

by JEDD FERRIS NEW RECORD SET ON APPALACHIAN TRAIL It’s been less than three years since Niki Rellon lost part of her left leg in a canyoneering accident, so her recent record hike on the Appalachian Trail can be considered part of a grueling rehab process.

At the end of December, Rellon finished a nine-month journey and became the first female leg amputee to thru-hike the A.T. To set the record, Rellon, who goes by the trail name “Bionic Woman,” had to overcome frostbite and leg infections, as she pushed through the East’s most mountainous terrain and remained diligent in her quest to complete the trail’s 2,189 miles. The native German will document her experience in a new book titled Niki Rellon: A Walk to Recovery on the Appalachian Trail.

SELC vs. TVA The Southern Environmental Law Center recently announced plans to sue the Tennessee Valley Authority.

The nonprofit SELC is alleging that the TVA knowingly, by its own reports, stored toxic coal ash in pits without protective lining at its Cumberland Fossil Plant in Cumberland City, Tenn., for more than four decades. The lawsuit will be brought on behalf of the Tennessee chapter of the Sierra Club.

TAKE THE 100-MILE CHALLENGE

NEW R I VE R G O RG E , W. VA.

To mark the 100th anniversary of the National Park Service and get locals moving, rangers at the New River Gorge National River are hosting a 100 Mile Challenge on area trails. Each month rangers will lead hikes in the New River Gorge,

as well as the Bluestone National Scenic River, giving participants a chance to reach the century mark by year’s end. So far, response to the challenge has been impressive. In early January, 110 hikers came out for a short hike on the New’s Grandview Rim Trail, which offers stunning views of the gorge and river below.

Interested hikers can sign up for the challenge here: www.nps.gov/neri.

FREE ADMISSION DAYS IN NATIONAL PARKS The National Park Service is celebrating the big birthday by offering 16 admission-free days at every park in the U.S. this year.

There are 409 national parks, and more than a quarter of them charge an entrance fee between $3-30. Only one of the fee-free days has taken place so far (January 18), leaving 15 more chances to visit parks without dishing out any cash. The next opportunity will take place during National Park Week, which runs from April 16-24. The NPS will also

illustration by WADE MICKLEY

offer free admission August 25-28, September 24, and November 11.

MOVING BEYOND COAL IN VIRGINIA As the coal industry continues to decline in Appalachia and beyond, the federal government recently opened its wallet to help former miners develop new employment skills in Virginia.

The Commonwealth’s community colleges will receive close to $2 million in grant money from the U.S. Department of Labor to help 210 former employees of Alpha Natural Resources in southwest Virginia. The money will be used to teach the laid-off coal miners trades in different industries, including manufacturing, tourism, and outdoor recreation. Based in Bristol, Va., Alpha Natural Resources filed for chapter 11 bankruptcy last August.

ULTRARUNNER GOES FOR CROSS-COUNTRY RECORD This month ultrarunner Adam Kimble will attempt to set the Guinness World Record for the fastest crossing of the United States on foot. 29-year-old Kimble is planning to leave Huntington Beach, California, on February 15 with a goal of reaching New York City in less than 46 days, 8 hours, and 36 minutes—the current record set by Frank Giannino Jr. in 1980. Due to winter weather, Kimble has planned a route that dips down into the country’s southernmost states before climbing towards the big city.

His 3,030-mile course includes terrain in Tennessee, Virginia, West Virginia, and Pennsylvania.

Kimble is able to choose his own coast-to-coast route, as long as the distance exceeds the 2,766 miles from Los Angeles to New York.

In 2008 Marshall Ulrich and Charlie Engle attempted to break Giannino’s record with a run from San Francisco to New York.

Engle had to quit after 18 days due to injury and the 57-year-old Ulrich finished in 52 days, setting a masters' record.

THE PROTESTING PROFESSOR Bill Crain believes bear hunting is unethical. The 72-year-old psychology professor at City College of New York is so passionate about the cause he’s been arrested six times during protests. The latest came in mid December, when he was charged in New Jersey with, according to the AP, “using a state wildlife management area contrary to posted regulation,” after standing in front of a truck that was carrying a dead bear. During Jersey's most recent annual hunt, more than 500 bears were killed.

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FLASHPOINT

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CHAINSAWS AND THE CHATTOOGA

LOGGING THREATENS THE SOUTHEAST'S PREMIER WHITEWATER RIVER

by ERYN GABLE

S

teven Foy knows well the magical feeling of paddling down the legendary Chattooga River. A veteran river guide, Foy returns to the river's roaring rapids each year.

"It has ‌ a special place in the heart of most Southeastern whitewater enthusiasts," says Foy, who manages river operations for the Nantahala Outdoor Center.

Though it starts as little more than a trickle in North Carolina's Blue Ridge Mountains, it builds into the Southeast's premier whitewater experience, delivering breathtaking views and heart-pounding rapids in an unparalleled natural setting.

Perhaps most famous as the backdrop for the movie Deliverance, its rockstrewn whitewater offers Class II-IV rapids as the river winds its way through the gorge, culminating in the renowned Five Falls, where five Class IV rapids follow in quick succession.

Protected in 1974 under the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act, the Chattooga stretches for 57 miles before joining with the Tallulah River in Lake Tugalo, forming the boundary between Georgia and South Carolina along the way. The U.S. Forest Service manages about 70 percent of the river's 180,000-acre watershed in the southern Appalachian Mountains, which includes portions of northeastern Georgia, western North Carolina, and upstate South Carolina.

"Because of that Wild and Scenic designation and because of the large LOGGING AND SEWAGE THREATEN THE PRISTINE WATERS OF THE WILD AND SCENIC CHATTOOGA RIVER.

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LOGGING PLANS WOULD AFFECT RAFTING ON THE CHATTOOGA, ONE OF THE MOST BELOVED WHITEWATER RIVERS IN THE COUNTRY.

Forest Service ownership, it has really good water quality and a really intact ecosystem," says Kevin Colburn of American Whitewater, a non-profit advocacy group based in Cullowhee, N.C. "It just really retains a lot of interesting character."

But maintaining that character isn't an easy task. On national forest land, the Forest Service must attempt to balance the needs and desires of competing users, including hikers, hunters, environmentalists, whitewater rafters, timber companies and anglers.

Now, a large-scale logging project in Georgia's Chattahoochee National Forest threatens the water quality 12

in a Chattooga tributary called Warwoman Creek. Only about onequarter of the Chattooga watershed is protected from logging.

Many people do not realize the amount of logging and road-building that takes place on national forest lands, thinking they are protected as public lands in the same way that national parks are. But the Forest Service has a very different mandate than the National Park Service, and that includes not just protecting forest lands but also allowing—and in many cases encouraging—timber production on them as well.

Environmental groups are concerned about the effects of timber harvesting on the Chattooga, particularly from sediment entering the river from timber roads. The accompanying traffic along those roads, including 18-wheel logging

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Only about one-quarter of the Chattooga watershed is protected from logging. trucks and other big machinery, also has an impact. Too much sedimentation can coat river and creek bottoms, impairing insect growth and reproduction. That means not just cloudy water instead of the crystal clear river that epitomizes the beauty of the Blue Ridge Mountains, but also less food for fish and the animals—and humans—that rely on that water.

In the worst case, a logging project can take away not just the trees that are cut down, but also

destroy the very essence of a natural area. "For a hiker, where you were once walking through a forest that hasn't been disturbed, after a lot of these trees have been removed, it's a much different experience," says Patrick Hunter, an attorney with the Southern Environmental Law Center.

"You can feel the impact of man much more up close after these sorts of events."

The management plan for Chattahoochee National Forest is not yet up for revision, but just to

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the north, the Nantahala and Pisgah National Forests are undergoing a management plan revision, with a draft environmental impact statement expected to be released by this spring.

The Chattooga headwaters will be affected by these plans.

Nicole Hayler, executive director of the nonprofit Chattooga Conservancy, said her organization is hoping to see continued protections for the nearby Ellicott Wilderness extension areas and heightened protections for Terrapin Mountain, which includes the Chattooga's headwaters. "There's all these incredible lichens and mosses [up there] to the point where you're almost afraid to step on anything," says Hayler, explaining the importance of limiting human foot traffic on Terrapin Mountain.

While environmental groups have expressed concerns about timber harvesting in the Chattooga

watershed, Forest Service officials emphasized that only a very small fraction of the forest is cut in any given year. In the 530,000-acre Nantahala National Forest, for example, that amounts to about 1,000 acres annually.

"It's not like we just go out anywhere and start cutting timber," says Mike Wilkins, a district ranger with the Nantahala National Forest.

"We take an interdisciplinary approach to the land, and we're letting the public know what we're thinking about doing from the very beginning."

Forest Service officials also argue that some timber management is necessary to increase game for hunters, and that five of the seven ecosystems in the timber project are "highly departed" from their natural state due to a lack of fire.

"Those kinds of numbers really highlight the unhealthy condition of the forest as it currently is," says Holly Krake, a spokeswoman for the Chattahoochee-Oconee National

Forest.

Instead of logging, the Forest Service can use fire. Reintroducing fire benefits ecosystems far more than timber harvests. On the Chattahoochee-Oconee National Forests, forest managers treated more than 34,000 acres using prescribed fire in 2015.

"The right fire at the right place at the right time helps maintain healthy forests, communities and watersheds," Krake wrote in an e-mail.

The trick, says Hunter, will be for the Forest Service to address areas that need recovery without causing more damage than what they're trying to repair.

"The sweet spot is for the Forest Service to do work to improve natural communities without causing the bad impacts often associated with timber sales, like road building and bringing in heavy equipment and big trucks," Hunter said. "They need to implement science-based treatments that are beneficial to the environment."

ANOTHER THREAT TO THE DELIVERANCE RIVER Stekoa Creek, one of the Chattooga's largest tributaries, has been a major source of water pollution in the river for more than 40 years, and things haven't gotten any better with the river's Wild and Scenic status. The primary source of pollution is raw sewage from the nearby city of Clayton’s sewage collection system, along with poor agricultural practices, failing septic tanks, and dumping. The Chattooga Conservancy calls Stekoa Creek the single greatest threat to the river's water quality, noting that the Forest Service has at times warned river users that contact with water below its confluence with the Chattooga River could put them at risk for bacterial skin infections.

LEARN MORE The Chattooga Conservancy is leading a campaign to clean up Stekoa Creek.

For more info, visit ChattoogaRiver.org

enonation.com

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FLY WAY TOP TEN FISHING SPOTS ALONG THE BLUE RIDGE PARKWAY

by TRAVIS HALL photos by STEVE YOCOM

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The Blue Ridge Parkway is one of the Southeast’s most treasured resources.

From end to end it carves a 469-mile path along the spine of the Blue Ridge, acting as a regional corridor for outdoor adventure. At its highest point—south of Waynesville, North Carolina near the imposing summit of Mount Pisgah—the parkway climbs to an elevation of 6,053 feet.

At its lowest, as it follows the course of Virginia’s James River, it dips to a mere 649 feet.

Fly fishermen know the value of the parkway better than most. For years savvy anglers have used this two-lane scenic byway to connect the plethora of mountain streams that dot the Blue Ridge landscape. Next time you head to the mountains with a 5-weight in tow, use this guide to fly fishing the Blue Ridge Parkway to help you along the way. Whether you’re heading north toward Skyline 16

Drive or south in search of trophy browns and rainbows at the parkway’s southern end, it’s sure to serve you well on your quest for the ever-elusive southern trout.

N O RTH C A RO LI N A

CHEROKEE TROPHY WATER Accessible via the far southern end of the Parkway and situated in the heart of the Cherokee tribal lands, the Cherokee Trophy Waters offer one of the most unique fly fishing experiences in all of Appalachia.

This network of heavily stocked tribal water features stretches of the Oconoluftee and Raven Fork Rivers, both of which harbor some of the biggest trout in the Smoky Mountains. Anglers fishing these waters routinely net rainbows and browns measuring twenty inches or more. The secret to these trophy trout waters is savvy management. A

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stretch of the Raven Fork, beginning at the Parkway and extending north for 2.2 miles, is heavily stocked and regulated by strict catch-and-release policies, and a portion of that 2.2 miles is set aside for fly fishing only.

WHEN TO GO. Avoid the summer crowds and visit the Cherokee trophy waters sometime between fall and spring.

by the Blue Ridge Parkway and accessible by the Big East Fork Trail, this stretch of wild water houses some rainbows but is primarily known for its brook trout, Southern Appalachia’s only native trout species. Notable tributaries include the Yellowstone Prong, the East Fork Pigeon, the West Fork Pigeon, and Dark Prong.

WHAT TO USE. Make sure you're packing heavy tackle designed to take on larger fish. A 9 foot 5 weight rod is recommended.

WHEN TO GO. The Big East Fork sits at a relatively high elevation. As a result, winter water temperatures are too low to support active trout. Concentrate on the East Fork from mid-April to October.

BIG EAST FORK OF THE PIGEON

WHAT TO USE. Focus on flies like small hoppers, Parachute Adams, and Prince Nymphs.

If you’re seeking remote wild trout waters, look no further than the East Fork of the Pigeon River. Also known as the Big East Fork, this pristine waterway flows through the heart of the Shining Rock Wilderness with gin-like clarity. Paralleled at points

SOUTH TOE

Originating on the northern slopes of Mt. Mitchell, the Eastern country's tallest mountain, the South Toe should be on every parkway angler’s

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short list. It is directly accessible from the Blue Ridge Parkway via Forest Road 472, and its lower reaches have been compared to the highly acclaimed and Blue Ribbon-rated Davidson River. Anglers who venture onto the South Toe will be afforded the opportunity to land feisty rainbows, browns, and brookies in the six- to ten-inch range.

One aspect that sets the South Toe apart are the numerous campsites located along its banks. With several first-come first-serve sites along Forest Road 472 and established sites with amenities in the nearby Black Mountain Campground, the South Toe is the place to go if you’re looking to set up a trout fishing base camp in close proximity to the Blue Ridge Parkway. Also nearby and worthy of exploration are the South Toe tributaries of Upper Creek, Lower Creek, Big Lost Cove Creek and Rock Creek.

WHEN TO GO. Winter fishing is tough on this stretch of water, both because this portion of the parkway tends to be closed during colder months and because trout seem to go dormant at these higher elevations. Concentrate on this stream from late March to early November with an emphasis on the spring months when the best fishing should be in full swing.

WHAT TO USE. If you're lucky enough to hit the spring hatch, pay close attention and try to match accordingly. Caddis and stonefly imitations will usually do the trick. Summer means terrestrials like beetles, hoppers, and flying ants.

WILSON CREEK Commonly listed among North Carolina's top-ranked trout streams, Wilson Creek is just one of the several great fisheries located in the Catawba Drainage. But if you’re

looking for something in the Western North Carolina High Country that is easily accessible via the Blue Ridge Parkway, it is among the absolute best. One of the few rivers on our list afforded a Wild and Scenic designation, Wilson Creek harbors brown and rainbow trout in a variety of pools, runs, and riffles and has been compared to the streams of Northern California’s Sierra Nevada.

While you’re in the area, don’t miss out on the chance to fish Harper Creek, Gragg Prong, and Lost Cove Creek—all tributaries of Wilson.

WHEN TO GO. This stream is highly fishable in the spring and fall months, but may also yield trout in winter if you’re persistent and happen to catch one or two unseasonably warm days.

WHAT TO USE. Stock your box with streamers when fishing the lower sections and consider basic dries with nymph

droppers when fishing the higher altitude sections.

WATAUGA RIVER (VALLE CRUCIS)

The width of the Watauga and the openness of its banks as it flows through Valle Crucis separate this river from its Southern Appalachian counterparts. More reminiscent of the type of rivers found out west than those typically located in the Blue Ridge Mountains, the conditions found on this stretch of water are considered a welcome respite for the rhododendron-weary fly fishers among us. In Valle Crucis you’ll find ample public fishing access leading to rainbows, browns and the occasional brookie. From October 1 to June 5, this portion of the Watauga becomes a designated Delayed Harvest stream, which means all netted trout must be released to fight another day.

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WHEN TO GO. Early fall to mid-May offers the best window of opportunity for Valle Crucis-bound anglers.

WHAT TO USE. San Juan worms are a popular choice as well as streamers, nymphs, and traditional dry flies.

V I RG I N I A

RAPIDAN RIVER

Often heralded as the best trout stream in Shenandoah National Park, the Rapidan has long been famous for its fly fishing potential. A former haunt of President Herbert Hoover, this river offers anglers a true native trout fishing experience. Aside from the occasional stocked brown, it mainly houses wild brookies, usually within the six- to twelve-inch range.

Pools here plunge as deep as eight feet and can rival a small living room in size. Certain sections of the Rapidan can be accessed by downhill trails extending from Skyline Drive, while access to the lower section, known for producing the best hatches, is granted via Route 662 through Wolftown and Graves Mill.

WHEN TO GO. For best results, try to catch the Rapidan during the spring hatch.

WHAT TO USE. Its brook trout are known for their willingness to tackle a dry fly, so pay attention to your surroundings and try to match the bugs emerging from the surface. It would be ill advised to take a trip to the Rapidan without a few of the river’s namesake bugs, a small rusty colored dry fly known as Mr. Rapidan.

NORTH FORK MOORMANS RIVER

The Moormans River flows into Charlottesville Reservoir, providing the Blue Ridge town with essential drinking water, but the North 18

Fork of this river, where it flows out of the Blue Ridge Mountains in Shenandoah National Park, is better known for its trout producing potential. A catch and release only stream, the North Fork Moormans is wholly contained by the boundaries of Shenandoah National Park.

Like the Rapidan, the North Fork provides prime habitat for native brook trout, but sizable browns are not uncommon. Accessing the North Fork is easy. Just head up Skyline Drive and park at the Blackrock Gap parking lot south of Milepost 87, then hike down North Fork Moormans River Road which runs alongside the river. You’ll find an ideal spot soon enough.

WHEN TO GO. Because it is a wild flowing freestone stream, the North Fork reaches low levels in late summer and early fall, making fishing more difficult. Try to avoid periods of low flow and focus your efforts on springtime fishing, when the North Fork is at its absolute peak.

WHAT TO USE. Make sure your fly box is stocked with dries like Parachute Adams and Elk Hair Caddis, plenty of bead heads' nymphs, and terrestrials such as beetles and ants.

JEREMY'S RUN

The only stream on our list accessible by way of the Appalachian Trail, Jeremy's Run is as much about the hike that gets you there as the trout you’ll hopefully land once you arrive. The fish here are small, wily, and wild, and when conditions are right, they’re eager to take a well presented dry fly or nymph. The most convenient access point for Jeremy’s Run is the Elkswallow picnic area near mile marker 22 of Skyline Drive.

WHEN TO GO. Both the remote nature of this stream and the diminutive size of the wild brookies that call it home make Jeremy’s Run an ideal setting for testing out lighter tackle.

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WHAT TO USE. Take a 4 weight rod with you or a light Tenkara setup, and make sure to pay close attention to water levels. During long dry spells this small mountain stream is known to run low, making fishing difficult in certain areas.

ROSE RIVER

Like the Rapidan, the Rose River of Madison County is largely contained by the boundaries of Shenandoah National Park and accessible by the Blue Ridge Parkway’s northern cousin Skyline Drive. The Rose flows out of the Blue Ridge into the picturesque Rose Valley where it supports a hardy population of brookies and rainbows in the shadow of Old Rag Mountain.

The section within Shenandoah National Park is open to the public, but beyond that is a stretch of private water owned and managed by Rose River Farms where anglers routinely land trout in the 17- to 20-inch range.

WHEN TO GO. With spring just around the corner, the time to hit the Rose River is now.

WHAT TO USE. Relatively light tackle is recommended and fly boxes should be fully equipped with #12 and #14 Quill Gordons and March Browns, as well as elk hair caddis, Mr. Rapidans, Blue Wing Olives, and Harry Murray’s elk hair beetles.

BIG RUN

The largest stream in Shenandoah National Park, Big Run is remote and wild, but it’s also home to some of the park’s biggest brook trout. To reach Big Run, park at the Doyles River parking area just south of mile marker 81 on Skyline Drive. Follow the Big Run Loop Trail from the Big Run overlook roughly 2.2 miles until you reach the Big Run Portal Trail. Take some time to explore upstream from the portal. Some of the better trout waters can be found near the section where Rocky Mountain Run joins Big Run from the north. If you’re really

looking to immerse yourself in the area, bring your backpack along. Of all the streams on our list, Big Run may be the best candidate for a multiday backcountry fly fishing excursion.

WHEN TO GO. While fishing on Big Run is best during the months of April and May when insect hatches are in full swing, it is one of those rare streams where anglers often find year-round success. Warm winter days are known to produce trout, while the stream’s steep gradient and deep plunge pool keeps the water cool and productive even in the heart of summer.

WHAT TO USE. If you’re going there in the next few months you’ll want to stock your dry fly box with quill gordons, American march browns, eastern pale evening duns, little yellow stoneflies, and cinnamon caddis, just to name a few.

MADISON RUN

The Madison Run is best fished on its lower and middle sections where it flows between Austin and Furnace Mountains. It is accessible via Skyline Drive by parking at the Brown Gap parking area near milepost 83 and hiking down Madison Run Road, but most anglers choose to fish it from the bottom by way of Route 708. This access route requires less hiking and deposits anglers on fishable waters much more quickly than the Skyline Drive option.

WHEN TO GO. It’s best to avoid this stream when water levels are low, usually during the early fall and summer. Focus instead on spring, the best time to fish the Madison Run, and late fall.

WHAT TO USE. The brook trout in this quiet freestone are relatively easy to fool with well presented nymphs or standard attractor dry flies.

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TIGHT LINES FISHING GUIDE • SPRING 2016

Warming temperatures, lengthening daylight, and returning shades of green on the land signal that spring is in the air here in the Blue Ridge. With these seasonal changes, many excitedly turn their sights to our region’s creeks, rivers, and lakes as they research new areas to fish and the pros who can guide them. To assist with those angling adventures in 2016, our popular “Tight Lines” guide is back to provide you with the ultimate resource of guides, outfitters, and destinations spanning our mountains. Whether you tie your own dry flies or don’t know the difference between a brown trout and a brook trout, Tight Lines will introduce and connect you to the people and places that will make your spring and summer fishing adventures a success.

FLY GUIDE

GIVEAWAY ENTER TO WIN a pair of Reflekt Unsinkable© Circuit Polarized Sunglasses ($99 Value), an Orvis Recon 9’ 5 Wt. Rod with Hydros SL III Reel ($649 value) and an Elie Coast 120 XE Angler Kayak ($599 value)!

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ALBEMARLE ANGLER

BEGINNER INSTRUCTION, LOCAL GUIDED TRIPS AND WORLDWIDE TRAVEL

FLY FISHING DOESN’T HAVE TO BE COMPLICATED. At Albemarle Angler we encourage you to enjoy the sport in your own way and make fly fishing what you want it to be. Use it to get yourself outside with a purpose. Use it as a challenge to enhance your skills and knowledge. Use it as a relaxing day to clear your mind and tune in to your senses.

OUR SERVICES

As a full-service fly shop with excellent guides and knowledgeable employees, we lead trips, provide product information and ship gear across the country. With four pieces of private trophy trout water, we guide in Virginia from the James River to the border of West Virginia. We also teach beginners from the ground up and help experienced anglers find the fish, while increasing their skill levels.

PLENTY TO CATCH

Fly fishing is not limited to trout fishing. If it swims you can catch it on the fly. Locally in Virginia, we fish for trout in the winter, spring, and fall. We also catch smallmouth and largemouth bass in the summer, spring, and fall. While those are the two species that we give the most attention, we also catch muskellunge, catfish, gar, carp, bluegill, stripers, and shad. Beyond our backyard waters, you can join us on one of our many destination fly fishing trips to catch bonefish, tarpon, permit, barracuda, sharks, and more.

More information: 434-977-6882.

ALBEMARLEANGLER.COM

JAMES RIVER FISHING THE JAMES

IT’S NO SECRET THAT HEALTHY FISH RELY ON A HEALTHY RIVER. Fishermen seek waters that hold robust fish populations, while quality fisheries require clean water. The James River, with its fresh water and diversity of habitats, offers an array of species. From its headwaters in Virginia’s western mountains to its mouth at the Chesapeake Bay, the James provides anglers with abundant fishing opportunities.

THE RIGHT ROD

The best way to fish the James is with a Tycoon Tackle rod. The James River rod series, designed specifically for Virginia waters, features two spinning rods and two fly rods. Whether you’re casting buck-tails to rockfish, fly fishing for smallmouth, or throwing shad darts at spring runs of shad, the experienced folks at Tycoon Tackle have created what you need to enjoy your favorite James River fishing spots.

Each rod is custom made and built-to-order with a percentage of proceeds benefiting the James River Association to support their mission of protecting the James River. Visit TycoonOutfitters.com to start fishing the James today.

PROTECTING THE JAMES

If clean water, abundant wildlife, and natural resources are important to you, then you belong in the James River Association.

For 40 years the James River Association has provided a voice for the James River, promoting conservation of its resources.

They help connect Virginians to the James so they can realize the benefits that a healthy river has to offer. Join today and protect the beauty and bounty of the James River!

JAMESRIVERASSOCIATION.ORG

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Enjoy your favorite James River fishing holes with Tycoon Tackle’s James River rod series, specially made for fishing Virginia’s waterways. Proceeds benefit the James River Association, protecting the beauty and bounty of the James since 1976.

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| JamesRiverAssociation.org

SOUTHERN VA WILD BLUEWAY AN ANGLER’S PARADISE

THE RIVERS CALL YOU IN HALIFAX COUNTY. The lakes of Mecklenburg County draw you in. Amazing scenery, world-class fishing, and miles and miles of pure paddling adventure await you. Located in both counties, Virginia’s Southern Wild Blueway has garnered statewide recognition as a great fishing destination with its three rivers and two lakes. The rivers—the Dan, the Staunton (or Roanoke), and the Banister—combine for more than 100 miles of navigable water, and of that, more than 80 miles have been designated as Virginia Scenic River.

This area is a year-round angler’s paradise with waters full of largemouth bass, white bass, crappie, sunfish, and striper. During the spring, prepare to meet large blue flathead and channel catfish, great catches that make the area a favorite of local and tournament fishermen. The lake experience is intoxicating for anglers,

boasting one of the best largemouth bass fisheries in the country at Kerr Lake.

APRES-FISH

When the sun sets, delight in the quaint Southern charm of Clarksville and Halifax County. The area has attractions for all interests, from the Virginia International Raceway to the home of the best NASCARsanctioned short track racing in the country, South Boston Speedway, to the

MECKLENBURG, VA MORE OF WHAT MATTERS

WITH A 50,000-ACRE FRESHWATER LAKE AND OVER 1,200 MILES OF SHORELINE, MECKLENBURG COUNTY IS A TOP VIRGINIA FISHING DESTINATION. Featuring Virginia’s largest lake, the John H. Kerr Reservoir, known locally as Kerr or Buggs Island Lake, and Lake Gaston both include picturesque views and an abundance of largemouth bass, striped bass, blue catfish, crappie, and walleye. The current world-record blue catfish—weighing 143 pounds—was caught in Kerr Lake in 2011.

WHERE TO CAST

In Mecklenburg County, there are 13 public boat ramps on Kerr Lake and three on Lake Gaston, as well as over 9,000 acres of Wildlife Management Areas. For a different fishing scene, put in on one of Mecklenburg’s several scenic rivers and streams. The Southern Virginia Wild Blueway—consisting of the Dan, Banister, and Staunton (or

Roanoke) Rivers—offers more than 100 miles of untouched beauty, 80 miles of which have been designated as Virginia Scenic River.

FISHING AFTER DARK

For anglers looking for a unique experience, the western end of Kerr Lake offers the only bridge-mounted nighttime fishing light system in the U.S., so you can start earlier and fish later. The lights on the Highway 58 Business Bridge over Buggs Island Lake/John Kerr Reservoir are comprised of two rows of fluorescent green Hydro Glow lights, installed on each of the 19 bridge pylons with one row above the lake water and one below. The glow of the underwater lights attracts millions of feeder fish, which then attract larger game fish. The bridge is located near the charming lakefront town of Clarksville, where anglers can head to shore and stroll through town for great food or a craft beer.

VISITMECKVA.COM

performing arts at the Prizery, to the rich Civil War history landmarks. You can also discover the wineries in the area, as well as the newly-opened distillery, or venture to an organic farm for an authentic rural experience.

Visit DiscoverHalifaxVA.com and VisitMeckva.com for more information.

DISCOVERHALIFAXVA.COM

RIGHT NOW, hundreds of miles of scenic, R

undeveloped shoreline are waiting to be explored.

Discover the one blueway that includes three rivers and two lakes.

SoVaWildBlueway.com Share your adventure on

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the Occaneechi Indian Pow-Wow in Chase City on

Saturday, May 2 nd, 2015 visit www.visitmeckva.com/meck250.aspx for more details

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SOUTHERN VIRGINIA WILD BLUEWAY.

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More Miles of Shoreline than Highway.

There is so much to explore in Mecklenburg County, including Virginia’s largest lake with over 850 miles of scenic shoreline.

There’s a peaceful cove and a secret fishing spot waiting just for you.

More of what matters. More Mecklenburg. visitmeckva.com | #moremeck

FRONT ROYAL OUTDOORS

WAYNESBORO, VA

Nestled between Shenandoah National Park and the George Washington National Forest, Front Royal Outdoors offers self-guided canoe, kayak, raft, fishing kayak, and stand-up paddleboard trips.

The City of Waynesboro offers some of the finest trout fishing in Virginia. Trophy-sized rainbow and brown trout thrive in the South River Delayed Harvest Area, which flows through downtown. The South River Fly Shop on Main Street provides guided trips, classes, and an extensive line of fly fishing products.

SHENANDOAH EXCURSIONS: FRO is located on the South Fork of the Shenandoah River, which is home to some of the best smallmouth bass fishing in the Mid-Atlantic. With trip options that include half-day, full-day, or multi-day excursions, FRO has everything you need for the perfect getaway, whatever it may be. Once you arrive, all details, equipment, and shuttle service are provided.

FRONTROYALOUTDOORS.COM

FLY FISHING FESTIVAL: On April 23-24, Waynesboro will

host the South River Fly Fishing Expo. Attendees will have the opportunity to enjoy fly tying, casting and fishing presentations by regionally and nationally known professionals.

VISITWAYNESBORO.NET

PEACEFUL SIDE OF THE SMOKIES TOWNSEND, TENNESSEE

FISHING IN THE TOWNSEND, TENNESSEE, AREA OFFERS AN UNBELIEVABLE ARRAY OF WATER TYPES AND FISH SPECIES WITHIN A SHORT DISTANCE. The surrounding Great Smoky Mountains hold 1,000 miles of creeks and streams, and the biggest draw for anglers is that all fish in the Smokies are wild, so they naturally reproduce and sustain their populations without being stocked. Anglers can stay close to the road and fish easily accessible streams or explore the backcountry’s peaceful hidden gems.

EXPLORE HIDDEN FISHING SPOTS

The best part of the Smokies is that the vast majority of the creeks are hidden from the road. An angler could spend a lifetime exploring backcountry creeks without seeing them all. The further you walk from

the road, the better the fishing gets. The areas upstream of Elkmont Campground or the Tremont Institute are good places to explore. Our advice is to pick a trailhead next to a creek, walk a couple miles, and start fishing.

GET OUTFITTED

Nestled in the foothills of the Smokies in Townsend, Little River Outfitters is a familyowned fly shop and school offering classes ranging from beginner fly fishing to fly tying.

The staff at Little River will recommend a local professional guide to help plan your trip when you visit the area. You can also visit Little River’s shop to get everything you need for your time in trout country, including current fishing reports.

LITTLERIVEROUTFITTERS.COM

Unplug.

Connect.

Where Good Nature COMES NATURALLY

www.visitwaynesboro.net | 540.942.6512

1.

3.

2.

4.

1. BATH COUNTY, VA

2. ABINGDON, VA

3. MARTINSVILLE, VA

4. BRISTOL, TN/VA

EXPLORE BATH: Nestled in

SEASON FOR THE FLY: Year

FISH THE SMITH RIVER:

WHY BRISTOL: If you love

Virginia’s Western Highlands, Bath County is home to the George Washington National Forest, Douthat State Park, Lake Moomaw, and Dominion Back Creek.

round, anglers of all types enjoying trolling in the waters surrounding Abingdon, Va. But from early spring through late summer, the focus is on fly fishing.

CAST IN OUR WATERS:

WHERE TO FISH: Specific sites that are best for fly fishing fanatics are Whitetop Laurel Creek, Taylor’s Valley, Big Tumbling Creek, Hidden Valley, Green Cove, and the Holston River, with good catches of brook, brown and rainbow trout.

Whitetop Laurel Creek is the area’s best-known spot, not only famous for its healthy stocks of fish, but also for its peaceful and serene setting.

Known for our fly fishing, the county’s streams and lakes are stocked with brown, brook, and rainbow trout. We also have largemouth and smallmouth bass, bluegill, crappies, catfish, and more. Fishing is permitted in the national forest and along a three-mile stretch of the Jackson River. Please be advised: Fishing along most of the Cowpasture and Jackson Rivers is by landowner permission only.

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VISITABINGDONVIRGINIA.COM

Named one of the best fishing rivers in Southwestern Virginia by the readers of Virginia Living Magazine, the Smith River is known for its native brown trout fishery. Fly fishermen enjoy casting to these trout year round. A tailrace river, the character is constantly changing so no matter your fishing style, there’s a place for you to enjoy.

Native brown trout, stocked rainbows, small mouths, and redbreast are abundant.

fishing, it doesn’t get much better than Bristol, one of the most beautiful areas in the Southeast. Hundreds of miles of shoreline and more than 40 miles of inland lakes and freshwater streams await anglers.

Less than 10 minutes from the river you can enjoy museums, art galleries, family attractions, and nightlife.

WHERE TO FISH: South Holston Lake, a Tennessee Valley Authority reservoir covering 7,580 acres, is considered one of the top two lakes in Tennessee / Virginia and among the best in the Southeast for smallmouth bass fishing and trout tailwaters.

It’s also well known as a fly fisherman’s paradise.

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MORE IN MARTINSVILLE:

O

utdoor enthusiasts know of an unspoiled mountain paradise just west of the Shenandoah Valley in Virginia. e only thing more abundant than the birds, wildlife and fish are the stars that come out each night. Opportunities to hike, bike and paddle – like the mountain views – go on forever.

Make your dreams come true in the County of Bath

DiscoverBath.com

800-628-8092 #CountyofBathVA

ram ruce Ing rtesy of B Photo cou

The curtain rises on another day

IN HISTORIC ABINGDON.

HOW WILL YOU SPEND IT? Catch a performance at

BARTER THEATRE. Catch a trout in a clear

MOUNTAIN STREAM. Pedal along the scenic

VIRGINIA CREEPER TRAIL.

888.489.4144 · visitabingdonvirginia.com

April 9-10, 2016 Doswell, Virginia

16th A n n u A l • Located at Exit 98 off Interstate 95, near Richmond, Virginia • Admission includes wine tastings from Virginia’s best vintners • Extensive children’s program with free instruction • Boy Scouts can earn their Fly Fishing Merit Badges • New “kayak testing pond.” Try before you buy!

• New FFF courses offered including Certified Instructor’s Course

2016 SPEAKERS Lefty Kreh • George Daniel • Bob Clouser • Beau Beasley • Wanda Taylor Blane Chocklett • Al Alborn • Macaulay Lord • Gary Dubiel • Patrick Fulkrod Abbi Bagwell • John Bilotta • Mark Huber • Dusty Wissmath • Walt Cary • Cory Routh Jon Bowden • Mike Smith • Kiki Galvin • Dayle Mazzarella • Steve Vorkapich

Daily Admission $20 • 9am - 5pm www.vaflyfishingfestival.org

®

THE GOODS

0 3 . 16

FISHPOND NOMAD HAND NET ($115) “A net is a net, but this one features some of the best technology out there today. I like it because it’s durable, the hollow core carbon fiber design is super lightweight, it’s weather resistant, and it floats.”

A GUIDE'S GEAR

GORDON VANDERPOOL'S MUST-HAVES FOR EVERY EXPEDITION

by TRAVIS HALL Gordon Vanderpool knows a thing or two about Southeastern trout.

Originally from Southwestern Pennsylvania, Vanderpool has been fishing the rivers and streams of Western North Carolina since 2007 when he settled down in the town of Franklin to start his guiding service Turning Stone Anglers. He’s helped hundreds of anglers hook up with the Nantahala and Cullasaja Rivers, the Raven Fork trophy waters, the Tuckaseegee River, and the Little Tennessee. He also also enjoys mentoring budding anglers as an assistant coach of the USA Youth Fly Fishing Team.

We caught up with Gordon—no easy task when you’re dealing with a guy who spends just about every day on remote stretches of trout water with little to no cell phone reception—to discover his go-to gear for guiding on trout waters.

EDITOR'S CHOICE

UMPQUA OVERLOOK 1500 CHEST PACK ($100) “This pack is essential to my success. It keeps me organized, holds everything I need, and lets me spend less time fumbling through gear and more time reading the water.”

SIMMS RAIN SHELL ($150) “I can’t tell you how many rain soaked outings have been saved by this rain shell. It’s never failed to keep me dry in even the harshest of conditions, and I won’t leave home without it.”

TACKY ORIGINAL TACKY FLY BOX ($25) “This company comes out of American Fork, Utah, and they’re making the most innovative and durable fly boxes I’ve seen come along since I started fly fishing.

The secret is the silicon holding mat that doesn’t break down like traditional foam.”

RIO PERCEPTION FLOATING FLY LINE ($89.95) “Rio makes some of the best fly line, leader, and tippet in the business, and the perception floating line might be their best product yet. My favorite feature is the no-stretch core. Unlike other fly lines, it doesn’t stretch when you go to set the hook. This allows me to land more fish and improves accuracy and control when casting.”

PATAGONIA RIO GALLEGOS CHEST WADERS ($500) We tested these waders in the high mountain streams and rivers of Western North Carolina in the heart of winter when trout were lethargic and water temps hovered just above freezing. Each time they met and exceeded our expectations. Key features include durability, insulation, breathability, and all around comfort.

SIMMS FREESTONE WADING BOOTS ($150) The Bozeman, Montana-based company’s best selling boot utilizes Vibram’s signature StreamTread rubber outsole, giving you a solid foothold in places you may have never thought possible.

COSTA POLARIZED SUNGLASSES ($229) New in 2016, the Rafael frames offer optimum comfort, style, and durability while the copper shaded 580 p glass lenses are perfectly calibrated to the mountain trout streams of the Blue Ridge.

EDITOR'S CHOICE

EDITOR'S CHOICE

ORVIS HYDROS SL REEL AND RECON 5 WEIGHT 8'6" ROD (REEL $200, ROD $425) This rod-reel combo is tailor-made for fishing the streams and rivers of the Southern Appalachians. The feel, accuracy, and durability of the Recon 5 weight proved lethal on multiple outings.

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We respect cold Then we laugh at it

We make base layers that brings cold weather to its knees.

For ďŹ t and warmth. For men, women and children.

We own cold.

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HOW OUTDOOR ADVENTURE PHOTOGRAPHERS

GET THE SHOT

by JESS DADDIO

BY NAT U R E , OU T DOOR adventure photographers are forced to contend with a variety of elements— time, weather, injury. Their subject matter is, at turns, thrilling and exotic, others, unpredictable and seldom perfect. It's frustratingly rewarding, not unlike the journey into paid photography work itself.

Technology isn’t helping.

Cameras and glass and storage are all cheaper, sure, but so are iPhones, which have suddenly made everyone a photographer. As Instagram continues to dominate the world of visual platforms, photographers are now, more than ever, treading that thin line between opportunity and skill depreciation. The allure of name recognition with brands often makes photographers question whether to settle for lower compensation, dare we say free, or risk compromising a future client altogether. Companies, in turn, begin expecting image rights

on a low budget.

You get the picture. It’s no wonder aspiring photographers get bogged down in the hustle. Putting a price tag on your skillset is uncomfortable, valuing your images feels arrogant, and staking claim to your creative entitlement seems completely ludicrous.

Unfortunately, that’s what it takes, and as any of the following seven photographers will tell you, there is no one path to success. In fact, each of these regional adventure photo by CLAY LUCAS

photographers has a very different, yet comfortingly crooked, path to where they are in their image-making careers today. The one consistent thread throughout? Just keep shooting. See what they have to say on getting the shot, and getting the client, in the 15 tips below. #1

SHOOT, SHOOT, SHOOT

“Figure out how you can shoot as much as possible. Sitting at the desk isn’t going to make you better,” says Asheville-based commercial photographer and filmmaker Tommy Penick.

For Penick, 26, that meant giving up the comfort of a home for a 5x10 utility trailer and adopting life on the road. From Truckee, Calif., back to his hometown of Richmond, Va., Penick has photographed his way across the country and back again.

He’s shot fraternity portraits, summer

EARLY SUN RISES AND FRIGID TEMPS ARE JUST A FEW OF THE CHALLENGES ADVENTURE PHOTOGRAPHERS ENDURE. SAM DEAN, ABOVE, EXPERIENED BOTH WHILE SHOOTING OUR MARCH TRAIL RUNNING COVER.

camp promos, and documentary work in third-world countries, not all of which ranks high on his dream list of projects.

But still, he’s shooting, which brings us to his second bit of advice— don’t be picky. #2

DON’T BE PICKY

“I need pretty images, I need good stories, I need something that’s fulfilling to me, I need cool experiences, and I need money. Those are the five basic elements I need to continue doing what I do,” Penick says. “That’d be really cool if all five of those were in the same assignment, but, at the end of the day, I just want to make pictures. I like shooting,

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TOMMY P E N I C K P H OTO.COM

even if it is something that’s kinda tedious or not exciting, like shooting headshots of a businessman or a talking head of someone addressing their company. I’m still lighting, I’m still shooting, I’m still framing, and that’s still way better than not shooting, which is the alternative.” #3

FORGET THE GEAR

S A M D E A N P H OTO GRAP HY.COM

It sounds cliché, but it’s easy to get caught in the trap. You can take out loans, wallow in debt, and live on Ramen noodles all you want, but according to Asheville-based outdoor adventure photographer James Kearns, you don’t really need to in

around the world on a variety of assignments including a two-month stint covering the war in Afghanistan.

Still, Dean says one of the most important keys to setting yourself up for success is to scout not just the location, but also the lighting for your shoot.

“You don’t just happen upon these beautiful scenes on accident,” Dean says. “There are those wonderful moments when you can get those shots, but try to scout the time of day that you want to shoot so you know where the light is going to be and plan as much as possible. When weather doesn’t cooperate, you just gotta roll with it.”

Which leads us to Dean’s second nugget of wisdom—just roll with it. #5

ROLL WITH IT

Picture a cozy campsite, perfectly lit beneath a starlit sky. There’s a cheery family roasting marshmallows over the fire, their smiling faces bathed in the golden-warm glow of the flames.

That’s precisely the vibe Dean’s tourism client was hoping to create when an unruly thunderstorm struck down on set. The storm eventually passed, but Dean’s client was

order to take memorable images.

“The best camera you have is the one in your hands,” Kearns says. “You can have a $50,000 dollar lens and not know how to use it while I could take a beautiful picture just on my iPhone.”

The next time you say you can’t do a project because you don’t have the right equipment, think again. #4

SCOUT LOCATIONS

Sam Dean of Roanoke, Va., knows what it’s like to work on the fly—the active outdoor lifestyle photographer got his start in photojournalism nearly 20 years ago, which took him 32

B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S / M A R C H 2 01 6

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convinced the shoot was a bust. Dean was left not only to create a warmand-fuzzy vibe amid cold-and-soggy circumstances, but also to bolster the equally soggy attitude of his client.

“As lead photographer, you’ve got to set the tone and keep people upbeat, especially when conditions aren’t great,” he says. “Once their morale starts going south, then you’re definitely not going to be able to pull it off.” #6

ANDRE WKORNYLA K .COM

TALK THE TALK

Though Andrew Kornylak, 41, was a computer programmer before he made the dive into professional photography in 1998, he was always, first and foremost, a climber. By immersing himself in the climbing world, Kornylak made friends, learned the culture, and expanded his portfolio, all of which eventually culminated in some of his first published shots in Outside and Rock & Ice. Nowadays, Kornylak’s portfolio includes much more than climbing.

Since joining the agency Aurora Photos in 2003, Kornylak has accrued big name clients like Garden & Gun, NPR, Business Week, and the Wall Street Journal, which means the majority of his subjects are topics about which he knows little to nothing. For Kornlak, that challenge presents an opportunity.

“When I get an assignment, I start learning as much as I can about that world or the people,” Kornylak says. “You end up putting a lot more time into an assignment than you’ve been paid for, but it’s going to make you approach the subject with more expertise and I think it’s going to make [the work you produce] better.

It also enriches your life.”

photo by GREG KOTTKAMP KORNYLAK IS A COMPUTER PROGRAMMER-TURNEDPROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHER, BUT FIRST AND FOREMOST, HE HAS ALWAYS BEEN A CLIMBER

#7

DIVERSIFY

Kornylak’s affinity for problem solving has landed him jobs shooting everything from bouldering to weddings, portraits, even bar mitzvahs. He says his ability to take

photo by JOSH FOWLE M A R C H 2 016 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

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TI M KO E R B E R . C O M

on any topic, and the diverse portfolio that comes from that, has helped him continue to find work no matter where his life may lead.

“You never know what turns your personal life is going to take,” Kornylak says, referencing his own journey into fatherhood. “If you’re diverse and your personal life changes, you can still work and grow your career in new directions.” #8

KEEP IT REAL

When it comes to being a photographer, Tim Koerber, 31, is about as laid back as they come.

INSTAGRAM INSPIRATION Follow these distraction-worthy accounts: Andrew Kornylak

@akornylak

Anthony Heflin @anthony_heflin_photography Ashley McNeely

@mcneelyak

Bradley Nash Burgess Brad N. McCroskey Casey Dougan

@bradleynashburgess

@bradnmccroskeyphotography

@cdougan21

Christin Healey @christinhealey Dan Brayack

@brayackmedia

Daniel Plotts

@danielplotts

Derek Diluzio

@derekdiluzio

Halley Burleson James Kearns Jared Kay

@appexposures

@timothyjamesphoto

@jared_kay

Justin Costner @justincostner Nick Walsh @_shootnick_ Sam Dean @sdeanphotos Serge Skiba

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Steve Yocom @steve_yocom Tommy Penick @tommypenick Tim Koerber @tjkoerber William Milford @stognasty

photo by DANIEL SAPP

That’s because Koerber’s specialty is shooting mountain biking, and— let’s be real—he’d rather be on the other side of the lens.

“I try not to let the fact that I want to take photos get in the way of me having fun,” Koerber says. “There are a lot of rides where I bring my camera, but I won't take it out. I’d rather be plugged in and present instead of always behind the viewfinder.”

Admittedly, Koerber says this mentality doesn’t lend itself to accumulating terabytes of images, if that’s what you’re after. Instead, Koerber finds inspiration in these outings, and often returns to trails and overlooks for future projects. It’s like scouting, only way more fun.

His work, which has been featured on PinkBike.com and most recently in Freehub Magazine's Photo Book on Pisgah National Forest, has a gritty authenticity to it, probably because Koerber tries to get his shot the first time, or not at all.

“I don’t like making my rides about the photo shoot,” he says. “I want to make it about the ride. I don’t want to have someone push uphill 10 times. Your first take is the best take no matter what.” #9

MAKE PICTURES

At first glance, Derek DiLuzio’s path to the world of outdoor adventure

“For me, when I shoot a picture, I want to shoot something that’s never been shot before, which means there’s going to be failure,” DiLuzio says.

“That’s part of the creative process.

I can’t tell you how many moments I’ve missed. It drives me crazy. They haunt me to this day. That’s what drives me to get back out and reshoot something.”

Penick agrees, adding, “to make an omelet you’ve gotta crack some eggs. You have to shoot stuff that sucks occasionally in order to keep moving forward.”

B R AYACK MED IA .C OM

#11

NO BUTT SHOTS

photography seems…expected— ski bum goes to school, majors in recreation management, discovers photography as a complement to outdoor recreation, moves west, hustles it in Jackson Hole shooting athletes by day and waiting tables by night, lands a few catalogue shots for Patagonia. Most ski bums would be satisfied with the story ending there.

But for DiLuzio, who made the choice early on to be more than just a ski bum with a camera, the journey is a never-ending one that started with one important realization.

“It wasn’t merely about going out with people and taking pictures,” he says. “It was about going out with people and making pictures.” #10

MAKE MISTAKES

Bring something new to the table, have a vision, make it happen. Seems straightforward enough, right? But like any well-intentioned plan, shit happens. In the world of photography, mistakes aren’t just par for the course—they’re encouraged.

While making mistakes is allowed, taking butt shots is not.

Don’t know what a butt shot is?

Stand at the base of a climb, point a camera up, and take a picture. That’s a butt shot, in other words—an easy shot that takes no creative insight whatsoever.

Dan Brayack out of Charleston, W.Va., prides himself on going

beyond the butt shot. Brayack owns BrayackMedia Publishing, which specializes in producing climbing and bouldering guidebooks. He’s published and shot photos for the Rocktown, Grayson Highlands, and Rumbling Bald bouldering guidebooks as well as southern Illinois’ Jackson Falls climbing guidebook.

“The angle makes a big difference,” he says. “If you’re shooting routes, you really have to be hanging. With bouldering, it involves climbing other boulders or trees to make [the angle] unique. I don’t just shoot one M A R C H 2 016 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

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DE R E K D I L U Z I O. C OM

FAVORITE PLACES TO SHOOT IN THE BLUE RIDGE REGION TIM KOERBER—Anywhere in Pisgah is awesome, and the whole Daniel Ridge area. The Green River Narrows is probably one of my favorite places ever.

DEREK DILUZIO—Black Balsam and Mount Mitchell for sure. I get thrilled by the light and weather there.

TOMMY PENICK—Linville Gorge. There are exposed places and you can get down to the river. You really get the best of the Southeast in that one little area.

angle and call it good. Instead of 300 images of the same shot, I’ll do it five times horizontal, five times vertical, and move to a new spot.” #12

GO THE EXTRA MILE

Beyond putting in the effort to get a unique angle, Brayack says he also pays attention to the finer details, like what the subject is wearing.

“I only shoot blue, red, and green shirts. White and black and no-shirts are definitely no go and I don’t let people wear hats either.”

Brayack adds that, in order for your subject to really shine, pay attention to the background and use contrasting colors. So if you’re shooting on rock, avoid neutrals. If you’re shooting in a summertime forest, avoid green. #13

BE YOUR OWN WORST CRITIC

Don’t read this and immediately go tearing through your Lightroom library. Be a constructive critic with your work, not destructive. Look at each and every image honestly, 36

without bias, and objectively, even if that means you don’t look at it for months. If nothing else, the process will help you hone your creative vision and prepare you for critiques down the road.

“I can derive little successes and little failures in one photograph,” Penick says. “I’ll say, ‘I lit this really well but I directed it like shit.’ There is so much more that goes into photos other than ‘the exposure is right.’” #14

FIND A MENTOR

Technical skills, interpersonal skills, organization, efficiency, networking.

These are just a few of the many reasons you should reach out to, or shadow, photographers you admire.

“So much of my success early on was just that I got lucky and found people who were willing to share their knowledge on a one-on-one basis,” Kornylak says.

“Technically speaking it’s not that hard to take pictures or video, but how you interact with a client, how you organize a shoot, what you do when something’s wrong, how you cold-call magazines, and how you

B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S / M A R C H 2 01 6

submit…that whole world of building relationships is hard to learn unless you can just throw yourself into it or watch other people do it.” #15

DON’T BE AN ASS

No matter how well you can shoot a camera, no one’s going to hire you if you’re an ass. More importantly, your community of fellow photographers isn’t going to respect or support you, and in the world of photography, your comrades are everything.

“It’s not like it’s me against him,” Penick says. “It’s like us versus them.

We’re all working together. Good photographers are going to be willing to talk and hang out and talk photo stuff.”

“Don’t come into it thinking you’re a super hotshot, because there are always photographers out there who are just as good as you,” Kearns adds. “A big part of my photography is helping others out. I once had an acquaintance be a dick about my questions, which was a huge driving force for me to show him I could do it anyway.”

JAMES KEARNS—Big Ivy is one of my top places to go shoot. There are beautiful waterfalls everywhere, and a day after the rain when the water’s still up, they have this really cool blue tint to it. Everything’s covered in moss so it’s super green. I also love down in the Cohutta area near Mulberry Gap. Definitely a special spot and where I learned to mountain bike. The weather can be moody with the fog and stuff.

SAM DEAN—Mount Rogers and Grayson Highlands. I go back over and over again. It’s definitely my favorite place to shoot around here. It’s so unique in this region and there’s a lot of biodiversity It’s almost like a rainforest.

I also love some of the A.T. around McAfee Knob and Dragon’s Tooth close to Roanoke.

DAN BRAYACK—As a photographer, everywhere is beautiful. You just need to visit it at the right day and time—although maybe the New River Gorge is just a little more beautiful than anywhere else on the planet.

STEVE YOCOM—I'm going with Max Patch. You've got 360° views so you've typically got good light to use at one place or another and you've also got a lot of open space to work with.

ANDREW KORNYLAK—Little River Canyon in Alabama tops my list. There's so much history, amazing scenery, and adventure packed into that canyon.

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photo by CHRIS GALLAWAY

WHY WE GO

by CHRIS GALLAWAY

T

he phrase “Hike your own hike” has become something of a motto on the Appalachian Trail. It’s often used in defensive reply to someone who is offering unsolicited advice on how you should hike the trail: what food you should eat, how many miles to cover in a day, what’s wrong with your choice of footwear—but it can also point to the highly personal nature of what draws people into the woods. What motivates people to commit months of their life to following a wilderness path through

the mountains of eastern America?

One of the most common reasons is for the challenge of it. They want to test themselves on a difficult adventure. They are drawn by the romance and allure of roughing it for weeks on end as they explore the original American frontier. Others go to the A.T. for therapy. They need to escape the grind of the modern world and refill their tanks in the quiet woods.

For me, I was most strongly drawn to the A.T. by the story of it.

For several years, the stories I heard

most about the A.T. were those of my girlfriend, Sunshine. She’d thru-hiked the trail back-to-back in 2004 and 2005. She told me of the friends she made on the trail and the adventures they had together: cowboy camping in the White Mountains or fording swollen rivers in the Maine wilderness. She talked about how difficult it was but also how inspiring. On the trail she’d found herself and grown stronger and more self-confident as a woman.

I was captivated by her stories, and the year I turned 30, I decided to go

out and make my own journey on the trail. With Sunshine’s support, I went down to Springer Mountain in early February and started walking north.

Throughout my hike I always felt I was walking back to Sunshine. This was geographically true in the early days as I made my way north through the dripping, gray Georgia woods towards our home in North Carolina.

I spent large parts of those days thinking about Sunshine and the possibilities of our future together.

I carried in my pack a wooden ring

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photo by CHRIS GALLAWAY

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set with a rough cut diamond that I planned to give to her once I reached the north end of the Smokies where she would join me for a few days on the trail. I can’t count the number of times I opened my pack to check and make sure the ring was still there or the number of hours I spent imagining how I would propose to her.

But the trail, like life, has a way of changing your plans. The words “trail” and “trial” can be exchanged by a mere shuffling of letters.

When I reached the southern end of the Smoky Mountains a week before my planned rendezvous with Sunshine, I was hiking with four companions I’d met on the trail.

We began the climb up the tallest mountains on the A.T. as a heavy winter storm descended on the range.

Day after day, the snow deepened and the temperature dropped. Every morning I awoke to boots that were two frozen blocks of ice. The simple act of stuffing my sleeping bag into its sack was a painful ordeal that rubbed my frozen fingers raw.

The romantic vision of the A.T. quickly gave way to a painful slog through exhausting conditions. If we weren’t post-holing through 3-foot snowdrifts, then we’d be walking through a cold rain, soaked to the bone. Through it all the good humor of my hiking companions and the stark beauty of the winter landscape lifted my spirits and kept me putting one foot in front of the other. When I finally reached Davenport Gap at the north end of the Smokies, Sunshine was there waiting for me with a hug and a warm pizza.

We hiked together for two days through snow-laden woods under trees sheathed in ice. On the night that we camped on the shoulder of Max Patch Bald, I prepared for my proposal. In the pre-dawn dark, I stole out of the tent, leaving a note card with instructions for Sunshine that told her to sleep in (she loves to take leisurely mornings) and where to find me when she was ready to get up. I walked up to the snowy bald

where I reflected and prayed while I watched the dawn break.

Then my plan began to falter.

Sitting down on the snowy hill, I realized that I’d forgotten some needed implements in the tent, most importantly my down jacket and coffee fixings. Not wanting to risk waking Sunshine and disturbing the plan, I decided to settle in and tough it out. An hour passed, then two. The dawn came and went, and the sun rose higher and higher in the sky.

For some time I had been thinking, “What on earth can be keeping her?!”

The truth was she had been awake for some time, luxuriating in her warm sleeping bag and wondering where I’d gone. It wasn’t until she sat up and bumped her head against the note card (which I had romantically hung from the tent rafters) that she read it. She hurried from the tent and found me up on the mountain, a shivering hermit who was completely failing to have the patience that he’d envisioned for himself.

She sat with me on the hill, and all the words I’d imagined to say left me. I spoke to her sincerely and falteringly of my love for her and my desire to join my life to hers. When I had finished, she rewarded me with a “Yes.” Long distance hiking does not measure well by the standards of the civilized world. It won’t make you rich or famous. By the end of the journey, you won’t have much to show for your efforts besides some extremely well-toned calves, and those fade quickly once you descend the mountain and return to “normal” life. But the day I descended Mount Katahdin I felt I’d gained a treasure of immeasurable value. I’d lived one of the most important stories of my life, and I was ready to go forward into my future with Sunshine.

MORE OF CHRIS'S A.T. ADVENTURES

Check out the trailer for the feature-length documentary The Long Start to the Journey: The Appalachian Trail at BlueRidgeOutdoors.com

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BATTLEFIELD

A WHITE RUNNER AT ATLANTA’S KENNESAW MOUNTAIN IS AN UNEXPECTED MINORITY.

by GRAHAM AVERILL

I

’m half way up Kennesaw Mountain, one of the last bumps in the Appalachian chain, just north of Atlanta, when it hits me: I’m the only white person in the forest. It’s a strange, but awesome realization, particularly given my location.

I’m running the main trail that switchbacks up the north face of the 1,808-foot hill, climbing 700 vertical

feet in under a mile. It’s a hump of a run, and judging by the crowd, it’s also one of the most popular trails in the state. Families are hiking together, groups of runners are chatting, kids are struggling to hold onto dogs, while clusters of women power walk with their hands on their hips. And it plays out like a scene from the United Nations—Hispanics, African Americans, Asians, and

Middle Easterners. I hear at least three different languages as I climb slowly up the hill.

I grew up at the base of this mountain, spending countless weekends hiking the trails and playing in the fields. Picture kids climbing on cannons and teenagers throwing Frisbees in the grass. This was the ‘80s in the South, so picture lots of jean shorts and mullets on

those kids. And I’m talking about “white” kids here. When I was young, Kennesaw was a predominantly rural town—a few new neighborhoods scattered between farms. We had one park, one elementary school, one restaurant (a Dairy Queen), and one black family. Mine was a childhood full of sandlot baseball, forts in the woods, and Sunday dinners with the priest. And a hell of a lot of racial

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tension, most of which seemed to be held over from the Civil War. When you grow up on the edge of Atlanta, it’s hard to avoid the Civil War. The ghosts were lurking around ever corner. Kennesaw Mountain was one of the pivotal battles in the war. My brothers and I would find 150-year-old bullets in our backyard.

One of my mother’s favorite places to walk was the Confederate Cemetery, where thousands of nameless white headstones rose from the rolling grass, like rows of teeth. In elementary school, we took the same field trip every year, walking from our school to the Southern Museum of Civil War History in downtown Kennesaw.

You could say the Civil War never actually ended in Kennesaw, Georgia.

It was just on pause. Older folks referred to the conflict as “The War of Northern Aggression.” The town’s annual summer festival centered around a massive battle re-enactment.

For decades, the most looming figure in Kennesaw was a guy named “Wild

Man.” He owned a Civil War relic shop downtown, dressed every day as a Confederate soldier, and wore two guns strapped to his hips. Imagine seeing that guy in line at the Dairy Queen. Meanwhile, the KKK still handed out flyers at the stoplight when I was a kid. At this point in history, they weren’t allowed to wear their white masks anymore, but they could still disseminate hate speak.

The predominantly white town and its surrounding county fought hard over the years to keep Atlanta’s public rail system from reaching its borders. Here’s how that particular train of thought has played out in the past: Poor people ride public transportation, and by poor people I mean minorities, and by minorities I obviously mean criminals…It’s as if Donald Trump was advising our city council. But wait, it gets better: Kennesaw made national news when the city council passed a law requiring every homeowner to own a gun in 1982. (Good law-abiding citizens that we were, my father bought a

22-caliber rifle, which he immediately disassembled.) Some people still call Kennesaw, “Gun Town, USA.” Awesome.

So yeah, given the town’s history, I’m surprised to be the only white person on Kennesaw Mountain as I run the rocky doubletrack through Civil War earthworks and past historical placards. I spend a lot of time on trails all over the country, and the fact is, most people I see look just like me. They’re generally in better shape and have less gray in their beard, but we’re the same shade of pale. A 2013 participation report by the nonprofit Outdoor Foundation shows 70% of outdoor recreation participants are white. The national park service reports only one in five visitors as being “nonwhite.”

I don’t doubt the validity of these statistics one bit, but if you did a participation study of Kennesaw Mountain on the days that I’ve run there over the last few years, you’d probably find inverse numbers.

Maybe each day that I’ve run on that

mountain is an anomaly, but I’d say one in five visitors are white. Maybe.

Probably more like one in 10, which is incredible for a couple of reasons.

First, as the demographics of the U.S. evolve, the outdoor industry, National Park Service, and various recreational groups are scrambling to find ways to encourage minorities to take up backpacking, visit parks and buy mountain bikes. They develop outreach programs and advertising campaigns dedicated to certain racial groups. Because, you know, when the U.S. is made up of mostly “nonwhites,” who will buy all of the performance layers with thumbholes?

The Outdoor Industry could learn something from the diversity at Kennesaw Mountain. Mainly, participation in outdoor recreation has more to do with access than “cultural identification.” This particular trail system sits 20 miles from downtown Atlanta, on the edge of the South’s most populated and diverse city. It’s easy to get to.

It’s free. The hiking is awesome. So people will show up, regardless of race or religion. You want to increase minority participation in outdoor sports? Figure out a way to include outdoor recreation in neighborhoods with robust minority populations.

Greenways, clean rivers, trails that climbs hills…Kennesaw Mountain’s diversity proves that if people have access to trails, they’ll flock to those trails. And I love the simplicity of that equation.

But mostly I’m psyched to be the only white person on Kennesaw Mountain because of the irony at play here. This is a trail system within a Civil War battlefield, on the edge of a town with a history of backwards ass racial maneuvers, and it’s now a beacon of diversity. This mountain and battlefield has stood for a lot of things since the Civil War, some good, some bad. Now it seems to be taking on another beautiful chapter, a sort of de-facto Central Park for the diverse families that now call Atlanta and its suburbs home.

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“Ain’t Nothing Living In There.”

CAN APPALACHIA’S RIVERS AND CREEKS RECOVER FROM COAL

by JESS DADDIO POLLUTION? “That’s not how a creek should look.”

We peered between the pine slats of the bridge crossing Butcher Branch, a creek in southern West Virginia. It was early January. The four of us had been hiking through tunnels of frostwilted rhododendron when we came upon the stream. None of us knew much about water quality, but we knew what a healthy stream should look like. The sight of Butcher Branch, milky and sediment-choked, was enough to stop us cold.

A SMALL STREAM OF WATER RUNS OVER BLOCKS OF COAL, CREATING ACID MINE DRAINAGE, IN FLOYD COUNTY, KY. photo by ERIC CHANCE / APPALACHIAN VOICES M A R C H 2 016 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

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“A

in’t nothing living in there,” said one of the guys, scuffing his shoe on the bridge.

According to a 2011 environmental assessment by the National Park Service, there is a likelihood of “yet unknown sources of contamination” acquired from Butcher Branch’s passage through the old mining community of Kaymoor.

The stream ran within the boundary of a national park, the New River Gorge National River. Shouldn’t its waters run clear?

In the Southeast and MidAtlantic, water quality issues seep from every hill and holler, and largely at the hands of coal mining. Coalrelated repercussions such as acid mine drainage, coal slurry and coal ash impoundment failures, leaky underground wastewater injection sites, and valley fills are the number one threat to rivers and drinking water.

About the time I was walking over Butcher Branch, the city of Charleston, W.Va., was remembering with painful clarity the 2014 water crisis that left 300,000 West Virginians (that’s one-sixth of the state’s population) without safe drinking water. More than 10,000 gallons of 4-methylcyclohexane methanol (4MCHM) and PPH leaked from a Freedom Industries tank into the Elk River.

Just one month later in February 2014, a stormwater pipe that runs beneath a coal ash pond in Eden, N.C., broke, sending some 82,000 tons of coal ash into the Dan River.

The toxic byproduct of burning coal, ash contains chemicals such as arsenic, selenium, and boron. It coated the Dan River’s bottom for 70 miles.

Back in December 2008, 1 billion gallons of coal ash flooded the Emory River in eastern Tennessee after a dyke collapsed at the Tennessee Valley Authority’s Kingston coal-fired power plant. The 60-foot wave of sludge was enough to destroy three homes and leave more than 300 acres of land covered in gray muck.

And nearly a decade before that, in October 2000, 306 million gallons of coal slurry burst through the bottom of a retaining pond at the Martin County Coal Corporation’s Big Branch impoundment near Inez, Ky. Over 100 miles of waterways turned black, more than a dozen communities lost their drinking water, and nearly all of the aquatic life from Inez to the Ohio River perished.

These are just the big spills. Sadly, spills and leaks occur every day. Duke Energy estimates that nearly three million gallons of contaminated water seeps out of its 32 coal ash pits on a daily basis. And where does it go?

Into rivers, lakes, and drinking water.

The implications of coal-related water contamination go beyond the physical pollution itself. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, living near a wet coal ash storage pond is comparable to smoking a pack of cigarettes a day.

If you live within a one-mile radius of an unlined coal ash pond, your chances of cancer are 1 in 50—that’s 2,000 times higher than what the EPA considers acceptable.

O U T O F S I G H T, O U T O F M I N D

If 72 percent of toxic water pollution in the country comes from coal-fired power plants, it would appear that the coal industry operates on its own terms. This is something Jennifer Hall-Massey of Boone County, W.Va., knows all too well.

In the early 2000s, about the time nearby coal companies began injecting coal slurry into abandoned underground mine shafts, HallMassey and her neighbors started noticing a difference in their tap water. The normally clean well water had acquired a terrible odor and oftentimes a cloudy gray color.

Washing machines rusted and died, plumbing failed, and all the while, the county’s health was quickly deteriorating.

“I’m talking about elevated cases of miscarriages, dementia, cancer, all kind of skin ailments, rashes, intestinal ailments, too, and tooth

TOP: COAL SLURRY COATS THE HAND OF DIRECTOR OF PROGRAMS DR. MATT WASSON FOLLOWING A SLURRY SPILL IN KANAWHA COUNTY, W.VA., IN 2014. photo by MATT WASSON / APPALACHIAN VOICES BOTTOM: ACID MINE DRAINAGE ON MUDDY CREEK, A TRIBUTARY TO THE CHEAT RIVER IN WEST VIRGINIA. photo courtesy of FRIENDS OF THE CHEAT

loss,” says Dr. Ben Stout, a professor of biology at Wheeling Jesuit University in Wheeling, W.Va. “I met a kid who was 18 years old and had one tooth left and he was going to get dentures. It wasn’t because he didn’t brush his teeth—there was so much manganese in the water, they just rotted out.”

Hall-Massey’s now 14-year-old son also suffered from dental issues.

Many of his baby teeth were capped due to enamel loss.

“The more he brushed with well water, the worse they were,” she says.

What’s more, a health survey revealed some 30 percent of Prenter area residents had their gallbladders removed. A few years after Boone County started taking note of the

health and water quality of its community, Stout’s expertise was enlisted. With the help of a grant, Stout tested more than a dozen household taps in Prenter. The results unearthed shocking levels of arsenic, barium, lead, manganese, and other chemicals in the water.

“In a lot of the wells I’ve tested in southern West Virginia in general, they exceed manganese by 400 times,” Stout says. “With manganese, at those levels, you’re harming people.”

Hall-Massey didn’t need the science to prove what she had already witnessed in her community. At one of the earliest public awareness meetings in Prenter, Hall-Massey realized six of her neighbors in a

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10-house span had brain tumors.

Just one year prior to the meeting, her brother had passed away due to post-surgical complications with a brain tumor, which was reportedly non cancerous. Now, all but two of those six neighbors have passed away, too. And according to Hall-Massey, the afflicted neighbors were neither related nor similar in age.

Surprisingly, the health surveys and tap tests did little to convince state officials in Charleston, W.Va., that coal companies were to blame for Boone County’s water problems.

Despite the fact that Prenter residents’ tap water was laden with chemicals identical to those found in coal slurry, coal companies remained adamant that they had chosen underground injection sites far away from Boone County’s residents to dispose of the sludge.

Yet the facts hardly support their argument. In just five years, coal companies injected nearly 2 billion gallons of coal slurry into abandoned mining shafts within an eight-mile radius of Hall-Massey’s home, 93 percent of which contained illegal concentrations of arsenic, lead, chromium, beryllium, and nickel.

The pollution wasn’t a secret. By law, coal companies are required to report contamination to the state.

The chemical concentrations found in nearby injection sites, which sometimes exceeded the legal limit by 1,000 percent, should, in theory, result in hefty fines and punishment for violating the Safe Drinking Water Act. But the coal companies never incurred a penalty. The three key polluters—Loadout, Remington Coal, and Pine Ridge—never even received so much as a slap on the wrist. For Hall-Massey, the lack of enforcement confirmed her worst fear: no one is going to stand up to coal.

“Nobody gives a damn about the people living in this county,” she says. “We’re out of sight, out of mind.

Personally, I could care less about the mountains. The people are what 54

matters to me. You don’t risk lives and kill people to make a dollar.”

Hall-Massey refused to back down. Eventually in late 2010, a completed pipeline brought in city water to roughly 75 percent of Prenter households, but one-quarter of the town’s residents are still living with contaminated water. For those tapped into the city system, however, the health crisis lifted almost immediately. Asthma improved within days, skin rashes disappeared, and Hall-Massey’s son’s permanent teeth grew in perfectly normal.

THE COST OF DOING BUSINESS

Prenter residents were also some of the 300,000 affected by the Charleston water crisis in 2014.

Instead of coal slurry seeping into their tap water, the residents now faced the unknown side effects of 4-MCHM. In 2015, Hall-Massey joined the 30 percent of her neighbors who have had their gallbladders removed. In her opinion, the timing of her surgery aligns perfectly with the 4-MCHM spill.

“No one knows the health effects and they will not know for years to come,” Hall-Massey says. “We’re a bunch of lab rats basically until time passes and someone collects the data.”

“The rest of the country treats us like we’re the cost of doing business in America,” agrees Daile Boulis, a resident of Loudendale, W.Va. Boulis’ home is adjacent to Kanawha State Forest just nine miles outside of Charleston. During the 2014 water crisis, friends flocked to her doors to take showers, wash laundry, and fill up on water. Despite her home’s close proximity to the site of the spill, Boulis and her five

Environmentalists have the same damn values as coal miners. Instead of focusing on those differences, if they focused on those shared values and found a way to care for their loved ones, that’s what will build a future. —Dave Bassage

TOP: THE KD #2 MINE SITS WITHIN A FEW HUNDRED FEET OF KANAWHA STATE FOREST, A RECREATIONAL GEM IN SOUTHERN WEST VIRGINIA. THE FEW NEARBY HOUSEHOLDS THAT ARE STILL ON WELL WATER ARE WORRIED ABOUT THE IMPACTS OF ACID MINE DRAINAGE FROM THE MINE. photo courtesy KANAWHA FOREST COALITION

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BOTTOM: ACID MINE DRAINAGE POURS INTO THE CHEAT RIVER FROM MUDDY CREEK. ONCE CONSIDERED ONE OF AMERICA'S MOST ENDANGERED RIVERS IN 1995, THE CHEAT'S WATER QUALITY IS FINALLY IMPROVING, SO MUCH SO THAT ITS WATERSHED NOW HAS FISH FROM HEADWATERS TO MOUTH. photo by ADAM WEBSTER

neighbors along Middlelick Branch are still on well water.

But, Boulis fears, her clean well water likely will not last forever. As of December 2015, she says her water has acquired a slight metallic taste that she attributes to acid mine drainage from the nearby Keystone Development (KD) #2 mine. The mountaintop removal site, which lies just 1,500 feet from Boulis’s home and only 588 feet from Kanawha State Forest, has racked up more than 20 violations in just over two years. Though the West Virginia Department of Environmental Protection (WVDEP) halted work at the mine and placed Keystone and its operator, Revelation Energy, on the federal Office of Surface Mining’s Applicant Violator System, Boulis says it’s not enough.

“Their fines have been much less than the total of potential damage,” Boulis says. “[The violations] are big ones like method of operations and sediment control and fluid limits, all of which affect water quality.”

Unfortunately for Boulis and her neighbors, the damage to Davis Creek and the Kanawha Forest watershed has already been done.

While Keystone and Revelation Energy cannot purchase any new mining permits, the designation by the WVDEP does not guarantee the companies will clean up the pollution, which leaves West Virginians with two options—accept a ruined watershed or pay the price to restore it.

C H E AT E D B Y COA L

As demand for coal decreases, more coal companies are filing for bankruptcy. Forty-nine percent of the active mine permit holders in West Virginia have claimed bankruptcy.

This equates to a drop in the coal severance tax, which, in conjunction with the bonds set aside by coal companies, helps fund reclamation.

“We are one catastrophic bankruptcy away from this fund being stressed out to the point that it won’t work,” says Randy Huffman, Cabinet Secretary for WVDEP. “When a coal company goes out of business, we revoke the permit and use their bond money, and money from the coal tax, to reclaim those mines to the current standards. [The bond] is never enough to do the work.”

The shortage of money has people like Amanda Pitzer, executive director of the non-profit Friends of the Cheat, wondering what happens next. Her organization and its volunteers are heavily involved in the reclamation process of the Cheat River Canyon, which suffered substantial damage due to an acid mine drainage blowout on Muddy Creek at the T&T Fuels mine in 1994 and 1995. It’s taken unrelenting persistence on behalf of Friends of the Cheat to make progress in cleaning up the Cheat River’s tributaries.

After 20 years, a multi-million dollar treatment facility will finally be built near the site of the blowout.

“It’s a huge investment and it’s not a one-and-done. All of this stuff takes ongoing care,” Pitzer says, According to the West Virginia Department of Environmental Protection, more than $35 million is needed to treat abandoned mine land sites and bond forfeiture sites. That figure doesn’t take into account the nearly $7 million required annually to maintain and operate these treatment plans, which involve adding doses of lime to waters polluted by acid mine drainage.

“It’s going to cost upwards of $10 million just to build the facility, plus operations and maintenance forever,” Pitzer says. “I mean, who is going to pay for that? What happens when you can’t pay to put the chemicals in the doser? Then what? Do we just let these creeks go back?”

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WATER IN AFRICA A PROBLEM AND A SOLUTION In November 2015, I traveled to western Kenya and stood shoulder to shoulder with a group of Kenyan schoolchildren at their local water source. A piece of PVC pipe crudely jutted out from a red-clay embankment, trickling water slowly, but steadily.

Not a few yards away, the spring sprouted to life from its underground casing. Clusters of tired-looking cattle stood idly upstream beneath a grove of acacia trees, staring with indifference at the uniformed line of children and jerry cans. One of the older girls managed the proceedings. She stood her ground at the head of the source, dutifully filling jug after jug. Her small biceps flexed as she passed full five-liter cans to their respective owners.

While she worked, I knelt closer to the pool beneath the spout, expecting to see my watery reflection staring back. The grimy green surface revealed nothing. Its foggy waters, I later learned, hid a world of microbiological contaminants that made students ill with cholera, giardia, and typhoid.

Families struggle to afford doctor visits and medicine, leaving children to miss weeks of school.

Fortunately, at least for this school and the other 300-some schools our team would visit, the cycle of disease and absenteeism would eventually abate. Water filters from LifeStraw, which last three years, would replace the unreliable and inefficient methods of boiling and chlorination that were commonplace throughout rural Kenya.

To date, 361,000 students in western Kenya have benefited from this program, which includes not just the distribution of community water filters but also lessons in basic hygiene. Though that number pales in comparison to the 900 million still living without, it was a step in the right direction.

—Jess Daddio 56

For the Cheat River watershed, which not only provides a habitat for fish but also drinking water for some 45,000 residents and a means of recreational tourism for the town of Albright, abandoning treatment of the Cheat River’s tributaries is simply not an option. Following the mine blowouts in 1994 and 1995, the Cheat’s whitewater industry suffered a 50 percent drop in business. For a state that has historically fallen at the bottom of national economic charts, financial hits to any industry are not to be taken lightly.

POLLU TION SOLU TIONS

West Virginia is not alone in its struggle. Kentucky, Tennessee, Pennsylvania, and North Carolina are also fighting the realities of a dwindling coal economy, which include not just mine reclamation but also high rates of unemployment, poverty, and alarming trends in drug overdose and addiction.

“It’s really sad to see someone coming from a $60,000 mining job to a minimum wage groundskeeper,” says Dave Bassage, chief of staff at ACE Adventure Resort in Oak Hill, W.Va. Bassage is uniquely sensitive to the plight of coal miners and the environmental impacts of West Virginia’s coal industry—before working for ACE, Bassage was a raft guide, a co-founder of Friends of the Cheat, and chief administrator of the WVDEP Office of Innovation for six years. Despite, or perhaps on account of, his diverse experiences in outdoor recreation, non-profit, and state government work, Bassage doesn’t see the use in pointing fingers. The issue of clean water isn’t just the problem of coal companies, or the state governments, or the environmental advocacy groups: it’s everybody’s problem.

“As a society, if we destroy our only home, that’s going to cost far more than whatever we invested to start with to take care of it,” Bassage says. “What we desperately need is

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THE PRICE OF POLLUTION ISN'T CHEAP. AS THE COAL ECONOMY DWINDLES, AND WITH IT THE COAL SEVERANCE TAX, AFFECTED RESIDENTS ARE LEFT WITH ONLY TWO CHOICES— ACCEPT A RUINED WATERSHED, OR PAY THE PRICE TO CLEAN IT. PICTURED IS ACID MINE DRAINAGE SEEPING INTO DAVIS CREEK NEAR KD #2 MINE. photo courtesy KANAWHA FOREST COALITION

a sense of future beyond extraction that’s something we can all wrap our arms around.”

There are programs and spending bills in effect to help displaced coal miners find employment, such as the Abandoned Mine Lands Program and Coalfield Development Corporation’s Reclaim Appalachia.

President Obama’s proposed POWER+ Plan would distribute $1 billion toward economic initiatives in the coal-impacted communities of Virginia, West Virginia, Kentucky, and Tennessee. Investments in outdoor recreation tourism could also help stimulate dying economies in mountainous regions, given that the industry as a whole annually generates $646 billion in revenue and supports 6.1 million direct jobs.

But the solution isn’t going to be any one thing. The answer

lies somewhere amid a muddled mess of economic diversification, investment in renewable energy, improved management and oversight of existing mines and potential pollution sites, and support for legislation like the Clean Water Rule—which would protect 60 percent of the nation’s streams and millions of acres of wetlands responsible for supplying drinking water to one in every three Americans.

“We all have concentric circles of values,” Bassage says. “At the core of that is our loved ones.

Environmentalists have the same damn values as coal miners. Instead of focusing on those differences, if they focused on those shared values and found a way to care for their loved ones, that’s what will build a future.”

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PROTECTING THE SOUTH’S ENVIRONMENT through the POWER of the LAW

TRAIL MIX

0 3 . 16

LONG JOURNEY HOME

LUCINDA WILLIAMS REVISITS HER SOUTHERN ROOTS WITH NEW CONCEPT ALBUM

by JEDD FERRIS

U

nlike most artists who take a career towards the fourdecade realm, Lucinda Williams has managed to become more prolific with age. In the fall of 2014, Williams, 62, released the deeply insightful double album, Down Where the Spirit Meets the Bone, so it was surprising when, just 17 months later, she unveiled another sprawling set of tunes in the new The Ghost of Highway 20. For Williams, her twelfth studio album is a 14-track road trip down memory lane, as she channels her experiences growing up in the South into a collection of heartache-laced, exploratory altcountry tunes.

Williams is a native of Lake Charles, Louisiana, but during childhood she moved around a lot and lived in many neighboring Southern states. A common thread was Interstate 20, a 1,500-mile stretch of American highway that runs between South Carolina and Texas and along the way passes many simple landmarks that can shape a keen artist’s formative years. In her trademark voice, quavering, at times to the point of almost sounding slurred, yet always extremely emotive, Williams sings in the title track, “Farms and truck stops, firework stands; I know this road like the back of my hand.”

As the song continues she reveals these recollections aren’t always fond: “Been 60 years, I don’t want for nothing; But my tears, they keep on coming.”

Williams has never shied away from telling her listeners she’s hurting. At times her revelations are straightforward, while others are poetically cryptic, even when she’s singing in the first person. The latter

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likely comes from her father, the late poet laureate Miller Williams, who died on New Year’s Day, 2015, and is remembered throughout his daughter’s new album. Williams adapted the meandering, ethereal opener, “Dust,” from one of Miller’s poems, and a few songs later she grieves loss and ponders the afterlife in the back-to-back combination of the haunting ballad “Death Came” and the twangy blues tune “Doors of Heaven.”

When Williams was growing up, her father worked as a visiting professor at different colleges. She lived in different cities when first pursuing her music career, too; first trying Austin, then Los Angeles, before finally settling in Nashville.

Williams’ first album, 1979’s Ramblin’, was a collection of old blues and country tunes, but critical recognition didn’t come until nearly a decade later with 1988’s Lucinda Williams, an album that was released on the London-based independent label Rough Trade Records.

At the time she was having trouble finding a scene. This was two years before Jeff Tweedy and

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Jay Farrar released Uncle Tupelo’s debut album No Depression, which essentially birthed alt-country as a sub-genre, and obviously long before Americana became the category applied to artists who put various styles of American roots music in a blender. At first, Williams was told she was too country for rock and too rock for country, but sticking to her guns has served her well, especially in the current musical climate where genre blurring is not only accepted but expected.

Williams is now considered a trailblazer, and her aforementioned self-titled record, which recently received a 25th anniversary reissue, has proven to be a statement ahead of its time. The album contained “Passionate Kisses,” a song that eventually won Williams her first Grammy for Best Country Song for the version released by Mary Chapin Carpenter in 1992. She didn’t receive her due as a performer until the 1998 release of Car Wheels on a Gravel Road, an album that mixed the influences of Williams’ Southern roots with tight modernrock arrangements and featured

contributions from Emmylou Harris and Steve Earle.

The album went Gold, notched a Grammy for Best Contemporary Folk Album, and essentially made Williams the household name in roots music that she is today.

Ever since, Williams has released albums every few years. She hit a blue period that peaked with 2007’s West, which lamented bad romance and the loss of her mother, and at times was too depressing for comfort.

She then turned a corner towards optimism with Blessed in 2011, which followed her marriage to manager Tom Overby.

Lately, though, Williams has found a new creative stride. With Ghost being her second double album in less than two years, her pen is clearly flowing, but the record also has distinguishably fresh sonic open-mindedness. On all but two tracks, Williams’ steadfast backing band is augmented by jazz guitarist Bill Frissell, whose experimental flourishes add an emotional intensity to Williams’ slow-burning recollections. That’s especially true during the desolately atmospheric reading of Bruce Springsteen’s thematically relevant “Factory,” as well as the patient acoustic strummer “Louisiana Story,” which unfolds for over nine minutes like a passed-down front-porch tale. The closing “Faith and Grace” is even longer, clocking in at nearly 13 minutes as Williams exorcises demons with possessed fervor while encompassed in Frissell’s spacey licks. It’s a riveting, psychedelic Bayou-gospel journey, and like the entire album, one of Williams’ best examples of music as cathartic release.

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