Blue Ridge Outdoors May 2023

M AY MAY 2023

TDO GEOU

ORS.

2019

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Guide

BEST OUTDOOR EVENTS FOR MUSIC AND ADVENTURE

SCENIC SOUTHERN CAMPSITES QUICK PICKERS: 19 L 20 APRI RS | O O T D GREATS BLUE RIDGE BANJO E OU RIDG 1

BLUE

+ NEW CAMPING GEAR + DOWNHILL MOUNTAIN BIKING + RIVER SNORKELING

VIRGINIA

STATE PARKS

800-933-PARK (7275) | www.virginiastateparks.gov

| Know Before You Go — Recreate Responsibly

DOUTHAT

Virginia is for all kinds of outdoor lovers. Whether you're a mountain hiker, a lake paddler, a dock sitter, or a beach lounger, Virginia's got something for every type of outdoor lover.

So, come love it for yourself! virginia.org

music in the mountains?

WE’VE GOT A FESTIVAL FOR THAT.

DelFest returns May 25-28, 2023 Let the DelFest music festival inspire you to get back to making memories in the mountainside.

THE 2023 LINEUP INCLUDES: The Del McCoury Band • The Travelin’ McCourys • St. Paul & The Broken Bones • Trampled by Turtles • Pigeons Playing Ping Pong • Sam Bush • The Infamous Stringdusters • The California Honeydrops • Sierra Ferrell • Molly Tuttle & Golden Highway and many more!

Visit MDMOUNTAINSIDE.COM/DELFEST

Photo Credit: Brad Kuntz Photography

ON THE COVER

CONTENTS

PRESIDENT BLAKE DEMASO b l a ke @ b l u e r i d g e o u t d o o r s . c o m E D I TO R I N C H I E F J E D D F E R R I S jedd@blueridgeoutdoors.com

D E PA R T M E N T S

P U B L I S H E R L E A H WO O DY leah@blueridgeoutdoors.com A S S O C I AT E P U B L I S H E R K AT I E H A R T W E L L katie@blueridgeoutdoors.com

7 | FIELD NOTES

T H E I N FA M O U S S T R I N G D U S T E R S P E R F O R M AT T H E S A L VA G E S TAT I O N I N A S H E V I L L E , N . C .

P H O T O B Y D AV I D S I M S C H O C K ( D AV I D S I M C H O C K . C O M )

May 2023

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Now is the time to look for Blue Ghosts, unique fireflies found in certain parts of Southern Appalachia.

C R E AT I V E D I R E C TO R M E L I S S A K E N N E L LY m . ke n n e l l y @ b l u e r i d g e o u t d o o r s . c o m E D I TO R I A L & P R O D U C T I O N S E N I O R E D I TO R W I L L H A R L A N will@blueridgeoutdoors.com

8 | FIELD REPORT

G E A R E D I TO R D O U G S C H N I T Z S PA H N doug@elevationoutdoors.com D E S I G N E R / A R T M A N AG E R REBECCA CENCEWIZKI art@blueridgeoutdoors.com

PHOTO COURTESY OF RIDE ROCK CREEK

A new North Carolina downhill bike park is gaining national buzz.

52 | THE OUT AND BACK An open letter to Strava.

C O N T R I B U TO R S

54 | THE GOODS

The best gear for long days and late nights at festivals.

DAV E S TA L L A R D L AU R E N S T E P P G R A H A M AV E R I L L M A R Y B E T H S KY L I S N OA H P O U LO S MIKE BEZEMEK C O P Y E D I TO R S JULIA GREEN, ROBERT MCGEE

58 | TRAIL MIX

New tunes from Drew Holcomb and the Neighbors and Leftover Salmon.

A DV E R T I S I N G & B U S I N E S S AC C O U N T E X E C U T I V E B U C K B R I C E buck@blueridgeoutdoors.com AC C O U N T E X E C U T I V E H A N N A H C O O P E R hannah@blueridgeoutdoors.com

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A D V E R T I S I N G C O N T E N T C O O R D I N ATO R

A M A N DA L I V E R E T T E

amanda@blueridgeoutdoors.com B U S I N E S S M A N AG E R M E L I S S A G E S S L E R melissa@blueridgeoutdoors.com

28 | COMFY CAMPING TIPS

C R E AT I V E C O N T E N T M A N AG E R

S H A N N O N M C G OWA N

Glamping might be too expensive, but a handful of adjustments can create a deluxe campsite setup.

shannon@blueridgeoutdoors.com C I R C U L AT I O N I N Q U I R I E S circulation@blueridgeoutdoors.com

31 | BANJO ROOTS

A DV E R T I S I N G I N Q U I R I E S advertise@blueridgeoutdoors.com

Revered in the South, the instrument has a much deeper history worth exploring.

PUBLISHING

47 | WILD WORDS

977 SEMINOLE TR PMB294 C H A R LOT T E S V I L L E , V I R G I N I A 2 2 9 0 1

North Carolina-based writer Mildred Barya releases new poetry collection "The Animals of My Earth School."

ASHEVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA

submit@blueridgeoutdoors.com B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

PHOTO BY SOPHIE HARRIS

B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

GOT A STORY IDEA OR COMMENT?

Our annual festival guide features events filled with tunes, brews, and adventure.

Spring is the time to camp at these scenic Southern spots.

O N L I N E D I R E C TO R C R A I G S N O D G R A S S webdir@blueridgeoutdoors.com

©2023 Summit Publishing, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

12 | BEST OF THE FESTS 26 | PITCH A TENT

D I G I TA L M E D I A

SUMMIT

F E AT U R E S

48 | WHAT LIES BENEATH

Get below the surface on the Blue Ridge Snorkel Trail.

51 | TRUCK HONEYMOON

For these newlyweds, camping in the back of a hand-me-down Chevy is the ultimate bonding experience.

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WHERE ALMOST HEAVEN BEGINS

Harpers Ferry Bolivar Charles Town Shepherdstown In Jefferson County, historic trails lead you along majestic rivers, through a national park, and to endless outdoor adventures. Our welcoming towns make you feel at home and sometimes a voice from the past will echo in the breeze. Jefferson County is your first step to exploring West Virginia.

Take it and you will quickly realize this is Where Almost Heaven Begins.

WATCH OUR VIDEO WhereAlmostHeavenBegins.com

FIELD NOTES

FLASHING LIGHTS P H O T O B Y T I M R E AV E S

SEARCHING FOR BLUE GHOSTS Now is the time to look for these unique fireflies in Southern Appalachia

BY T I M R E AV E S

I WAS THERE WHEN THE bioluminescent forest awakened, and I’ll never forget it. In May 2019, I was getting into nighttime photography, mainly starscapes and firefly fields. I’d heard about the dazzling synchronous fireflies in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, and my research led me to a quiet cove far from the crowds of Elkmont. I set up my camera, tripod, and remote shutter, then carefully picked my way along a broad streamside trail as full night descended.

Instead of synchronous fireflies, I was baffled to see tiny azure lights ignite on the dark forest floor and slowly take to the air, like something out of a dream. Just a foot or two off the ground, the glowing orbs crossed around, over, and under each other in a charismatic dance of zigzags, bobs, and whirligigs. The source of this spectacle was a tiny species of firefly, only seen by those who wander the woods at night.

Blue ghosts inhabit pristine forests far from human light in the mountains and foothills of North Carolina and Tennessee and parts of South Carolina, Texas, and Oklahoma. Though upstaged by the better-known synchronous fireflies, they perform their own magical show in the early firefly season.

Male blue ghosts don’t flash their lights. Instead, they glow for up to a minute at a time with an eerie bluish-green color, like tiny nighttime travelers swinging their lamps through the dark understory.

Flightless, grub-like females, smaller than a grain of rice, glow with the

same light on the ground or low understory, awaiting their suitors.

“Everyone grows up thinking fireflies flash, flash, flash, and these are totally different,” says Becky Nichols, entomologist for Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

“The fact that they fly around with a glowing little searchlight, that’s the most distinctive thing about them.

There are 19 known species of firefly in this park, and blue ghosts are by far the most unique.”

On that cool night in May, as I watched their courtship dance in the inky blackness, I felt a loss of depth perception that gave the impression of a two-dimensional cosmos brought down to Earth.

Thousands of males filled the forest and descended its slopes like a procession of blue candles. I’ve never seen so many fireflies before or since, and the experience carried a sense of the sacred.

“It’s not just the lights; it’s the silence, this combination of making light in the darkness and doing it silently,” says Sara Lewis, professor emerita of biology at Tufts University and author of the book “Silent Sparks: The Wondrous World of Fireflies.” “Across all cultures, all around the world, fireflies are kind of a revered insect. They’re still very mysterious to people and mysterious to science. There’s still so much that we don’t know about

fireflies in general.”

In the field guide “Fireflies, Glow-worms, and Lightning Bugs,” global firefly authority Lynn Faust describes a dual peak of blue ghost activity in Southern Appalachia, one from April to late May and another in mid-June in the valleys. At higher elevations, these peaks shift to late May and late June.

If you want to see blue ghosts, several paid tours are available, like those offered by the Cradle of Forestry and Asheville Hiking Tours.

But half the thrill is in the chase, so here are a few tips for finding blue ghosts yourself.

They are more tolerant of lower air temperatures than other fireflies, but the show will stop below 50°F.

• Wait for a night with little or no moon that falls within the typical peak season. Adults begin emerging at around 340 modified growing degree days.

• They have been known to glow all night, but peak activity occurs for about the first 90 minutes from 9:30-11 p.m.

• Light rain isn’t a problem, but heavy rain will force them to take cover.

• The forest must be healthy with thick leaf litter. This is necessary for larvae to survive.

• They only appear at very late twilight or full dark, so have patience. If it’s fully dark and you don’t see them, the conditions might not be right, or the spot might just be a dud. It can be a roll of the dice, but getting outside at night is its own reward.

HELP PROTECT FIREFLIES Use as little light as possible to avoid disturbing the fireflies. If you must use a flashlight or headlamp, make sure to use one with a red filter.

• Don’t try to catch them. You risk trampling the females or twisting an ankle. Stay on the trail and away from their display areas.

• You can help support fireflies and their habitat through advocacy organizations like the Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation, Fireflyers International Network, and Firefly.org.

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FIELD REPORT

MOUNTAIN BIKING

DOWN THE MOUNTAIN New North Carolina Bike Park Offers Lift Access, Just a Stone’s Throw from Pisgah

BY GABRIELLE SAULSBERY

PROFESSIONAL DOWNHILL mountain biker Neko Mullally, of Pisgah Forest, N.C., got his third international podium March 19 in New Zealand, up against some of the world’s best cyclists. He sped down the 1.2-mile course in 3:01, nabbing the third spot against cyclists he’s gone head-to-head with since going pro more than a decade ago.

But of the riders he faced in the elite field, there’s something different about Mullally: He’s the only one

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

who built and runs his own bike park.

And what’s more, he runs two.

Ride Rock Creek, in Zirconia, N.C., opened in December, and since then has shuttled 150 to 200 riders up the lift access road each weekend to bomb down Barkbuster, Tumbleweed, and the other trails built by in-house trail crew Pisgah Trails LLC. Mullally started Rock Creek with Callie Horwath, a retired cross country mountain biker and winning e-bike cyclist, and Dave Lamond, a sports medicine doctor and passionate cyclist himself. The trio, who also opened 225-acre Ride Kanuga in Hendersonville in 2020, had been gunning to open a lift access park for some time. Mullally opened Windrock Bike Park in Oliver Springs, Tenn., with pal Sean Leader in 2016, but handed full control of the park over to Leader in 2020 after getting burnt out on the frequent three-hour drives to work.

While nearby Pisgah National Forest is plenty rugged, a local lift

access park would give him and fellow pros like Luca Shaw and Christopher Grice a place to train and make downhill a year-round reality in the Carolinas. The nearest lift access parks, two hours away in the high country, open from just Memorial Day to Labor Day. Kanuga, which quickly grew in rapid popularity due to the pandemic outdoor boom, proved to the trio that a pay-to-play bike park was possible in western North Carolina, despite the bevy of free trails nearby.

“When we first opened Kanuga, [people would ask] 'why would I pay to go ride trails there?'”

“When we first opened Kanuga, [people would ask] 'why would I pay to go ride trails there?' and then afterwards, the response from those people was, ‘wow, those were the best trails I've ridden in the area, and maybe some of the

best that I've ever ridden.’ So I think that we're past that now [for Rock Creek],” Lamond said. “People understand there's a shuttle, there's a place where you can get snacks, rent bikes, and get repairs done, and there's a perception that it's safer versus just being in the forest.”

The Mountain

Rock Creek opened in December with five top-to-bottom trails, a connector, and a jump line.

Green River, the lone green trail, was machine-built by Horwath. While it’s approachable for beginners, steep turns and tall berms give experienced riders the chance to carry real speed.

There’s variety in the blue trails Barkbuster, Tumbleweed, Strange Beast, and Big Baby.

Barkbuster is a singletrack rakeand-ride, affectionately called both “turn track” and “rut track” by riders for its flat corners and already wellseasoned ruts. Riders can take it to

VA NHO O K FA LLS

Amazing how the rushing water makes you do the opposite.

Photo: Steve Poynter

In The Kentucky Wildlands, you’ll find many paths that lead through pristine ancient forests and over mountains rewarding you with spectacular natural wonders, such as the ones on The Kentucky Wildlands Waterfall Trail.

ANGLIN FALLS Access: 1.7 mile trail

EAGLE FALLS Access: 1.5 mile trail

CREATION FALLS Access: 1.4 mile trail

76 FALLS Access: short walk or by boat

Photo: Dustin Robinson

Photo: Steve Poynter

Photo: Rodney Hendrickson

Photo: Jim Ledford

Explore All the Falls on The Kentucky Wildlands Waterfall Trail: exploreKYwildlands.com or scan This material is based upon work supported under a grant by the Appalachian Regional Commission. Any opinions, findings and conclusions or recommendations expressed in the material are solely the responsibility of the authors and do not necessarily represent the official views of the Appalachian Regional Commission.

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FIELD REPORT

MOUNTAIN BIKING

the bottom or hop on Strange Beast, a tight off-camber trail, halfway through.

Tumbleweed, machine built by trailbuilder Morgan Barkeley, is a fun rollercoaster of switchbacks and rollers featuring one of the mountain’s only natural rock gardens, and it spits you out onto Big Baby, a fast, swoopy jump line with roller options and a 20-foot stepdown.

Dark Hollow, the single black trail, is a classic enduro track with some steep, fast sections and a rock garden through the rhododendrons.

And finally, Stampede, the double-black trail and downhill racetrack, is the only trail at the park where downhill bikes are nearly non-negotiable, with big drops and gnarly rock gardens.

Mullally built it in part as a testing lab for Frameworks, his custom bike company.

“It's fun if you can be on top of it. But if you struggle with features at all, it's really not fun,” Mullally said. “It's like the slower you go, the worse it is.”

The pièce de resistance, though, is the lift access road— paved up to a certain point, then gravel beyond that—which takes riders and their bikes straight up

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the mountain in school buses. The five-minute shuttle up leaves no one questioning the value of lift access: with 700 feet of vertical, it’s a would-be ass-kicker. Without having to bike it, riders can get upwards of 20 runs a day.

Rock Creek’s inaugural trails are south-facing, so they dry out well after storms and aren’t subject to much freeze-thaw in the winter.

What was peanut butter opening weekend amid four days of rain was hero dirt by weekend two. It’s the type of grippy, fun-to-ride dirt that brings out the best in every rider.

There’s already plenty of variety for different skill levels and more trails will be open by summer.

There’s already plenty of variety for different skill levels and more trails will be open by summer.

While Horwath said Rock Creek has thus far attracted more core riders (compared to Kanuga, which has a beginner-friendly vibe), Lamond highlighted the park’s accessibility.

Horwath is a mean digger operator, but she also gets much of the credit for how accessible both bike parks are before riders’ wheels

even hit the trail.

“Callie has really good attention to detail. Everything in the shops at both parks, how things are around the parking lot, the maps—those things add up to the total experience, and from a business perspective, they're really valuable and they give a really good impression of bike park,” Mullally said. “Sometimes those little details get lost on me and Dave, but Callie is very particular about that stuff. I think we’re a good team.”

Championship Venue

Just four months after opening, Rock Creek landed on USA Cycling’s short list to host this year’s Gravity Mountain Bike National Championships.

From July 12 to 16, the park will host national downhill, enduro, and dual slalom races, and in doing so will accomplish one of the objectives they had in building Rock Creek in the first place. The event will remain at Rock Creek for 2024.

“We need an economic impact study on Neko,” said one cheeky commenter to USA Cycling’s Instagram announcement.

“We are eager to see the development and growing community at Rock Creek and know this will be a great new addition to our National Championship venues with newly built dual slalom course and enduro stages,” said USA Cycling Director of National Events

Tara McCarthy.

The community is, indeed, growing. Riders feel it as soon as they hop on the shuttle, which Friday through Sunday is abuzz with chatter and excitement about trail preference and line choice. Go two weekends in a row and you’ll no doubt see familiar faces. Take a break around the fire pit near the shop and reconnect with friends from the hill.

In April, Rock Creek hosted the year’s second of seven events for Downhill Southeast, the race series Mullally started in 2016 with his mom and brother to fill a void of preseason practice races. It’s since grown into one of the country’s most active regional downhill series, with 300 average entrants per race.

“The whole long-term objective of Rock Creek was to become a national event center, and we want to build upon that. Obviously, this is a big deal,” Lamond said of the upcoming National Championships.

“There's other national series that we'd love to host over time, and [we’ll focus on] creating an atmosphere that becomes a destination for that. Beyond that, the goal is also to make it approachable to different groups of riders and making a pretty special place that people come for that experience.”

R I D E R O C K C R E E K F E AT U R E S S E V E N D O W N H I L L M O U N TA I N B I K E T R A I L S F O R A VA R I E T Y O F SKILL LEVELS. ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF RIDE ROCK CREEK

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BRISTOL RHYTHM AND ROOTS REUNION. PHOTO BY SOPHIE HARRIS

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best of the fests 2023 BLUE RIDGE FESTIVAL GUIDE

BY JEDD FERRIS

T

he hills are alive with the sound of music.

Every year the Blue Ridge regions boasts a bustling schedule of top-notch festivals, featuring sounds ranging from traditional bluegrass to eclectic roots rock. These events are often in incredibly scenic locations that offer comfortable camping and plenty of adventure opportunities.

Read on to learn about some of the best fests in our backyard.

Shakori Hills Grassroots Festival of Music and Dance Pittsboro, N.C. May 4-7 This longstanding family-friendly fest takes place on a scenic 75acre farm near the main cities of the North Carolina Research Triangle. Headliners include Donna the Buffalo, Sierra Hull, Marty Stuart, and Willie Watson. shakorihillsgrassroots.org

Cheat River Festival

LEAF Retreat

Albright, W.Va. May 5-6 For nearly three decades, this waterfront party has been a regional favorite, filled with arts, boating, bluegrass, food, and fun, all to support the Cheat River watershed. Paddle in the Downriver Race, run a 5K, and catch tunes by Larry Keel. cheatfest.org

Black Mountain, N.C. May 11-14 A smaller spinoff of the longstanding LEAF festival, LEAF Retreat features an eclectic roster of roots music acts, as well as a variety of healing arts workshops. Acts performing include the Headhunters and Arise Roots. theleaf.org

North Carolina Brewers and Music Festival Huntersville, N.C. May 12-13 A stellar line-up of roots-based bands will be jamming and more than 40 craft breweries will be pouring at this popular event on Huntersville’s historic Rural Hill.

Catch sets by the Steep Canyon Rangers, Molly Tuttle & Golden Highway, Lilly Hiatt, Susto, and 49 Winchester. ncbrewsmusic.com

Trail Days Damascus, Va. May 19-21 Trail Days is the Appalachian Trail hiking community’s biggest party. Hosted since 1987, it turns the tiny but vibrant mountain town of Damascus into a festive family reunion for A.T. thru-hikers from different generations, who come together to trade boot-worn stories by bonfire, dress up in crazy costumes and march in a parade, check out a variety of gear and food vendor booths, and get rowdy at

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FESTIVAL guide 2023 DelFest Cumberland, Md. May 25-28 A picker’s paradise, this fest honors living legend Del McCoury—once a member of genre founder Bill Monroe’s Blue Grass Boys—who turned 84 this year. Del and his band headline the festival in the scenic Potomac River Valley of western Maryland with help from a generation-spanning lineup of topnotch bluegrass all-stars, this year featuring Sam Bush, the Infamous Stringdusters, Trampled by Turtles, and Sierra Ferrell. delfest.com

Rooster Walk Music and Arts Festival

the campgrounds in the evenings. visitdamascus.org

Beaufort Music Festival Beaufort, N.C. May 19-20 Grace Potter and Karl Denson’s Tiny Universe lead the lineup at this two-day fest that takes place on Beaufort’s scenic waterfront at the North Carolina Maritime Museum’s Gallants Channel. The laid-back, family friendly fest will also feature local art, good eats, and a kid’s area. beaufortmusicfestival.com

Dominion Riverrock

S C E N E S F R O M D E L F E S T. P H O T O S B Y J . S T R A U S S E R V I S U A L S / C O U R T E S Y O F I V P R

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Richmond, Va. May 19-21 Showcasing the abundance of outdoor opportunities along the James River in downtown Richmond, Riverrock is a huge mountain sports and music festival featuring plenty of opportunities to play and groove. Run the James River Scramble 10K, ride the MTB time trial, go for a paddle, and catch sets by Neal Francis, 49 Winchester, and Sierra Hull. dominionriverrock.com

Axton, Va. May 25-28 Rooster Walk is going big in year 13, featuring sets from Greensky Bluegrass, St. Paul and the Broken Bones, Pigeons Playing Ping Pong, and the Marshall Tucker Band. The family friendly festival takes place at the scenic Pop’s Farm, a bucolic property located just outside of Martinsville that offers an ideal setting for four days of music on multiple lakeside stages, wooded camping, and plenty of kids’ activities. roosterwalk.com

U.S. National Whitewater Center Memorial Day Celebration Charlotte, N.C. May 27-28 The U.S. National Whitewater Center—an outdoor recreation staple in Charlotte—hosts this annual celebration that features two full days of activities, including a Saturday morning trail race and SUP yoga sessions on the Catawba River. There will also be live music throughout the weekend. whitewater.org

Graves Mountain Music Festival Syria, Va. June 1-4 Bluegrass sounds better in the mountains. Set near Shenandoah National Park at the scenic Graves Mountain Campground, this festival offers a deep lineup of regional fast-picking favorites,

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6 S TAGE S CAMPI NG OUTDOOR ADVENTURES FAMI LY F U N

A DV E N T U R E IS

Mountain Made in GALAX

If you love scenic biking, hiking, camping or time on the river, Galax is the place for you.

Spend your days outdoors, followed by good food and craft brews. Then, relax in one of our comfortable cabins or vacation rentals.

Mountain adventures are made at

VisitGalax.com

Don’t miss the

87th Annual Old Fiddlers’ Convention August 7 – 12 · Felts Park · Galax, VA

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A C A M P F I R E AT T R A I L D AY S I N D A M A S C U S , VA .

PHOTO BY JESSE KOKOTEK

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FESTIVAL guide 2023

including Valerie Smith, Rose River Ramblers, and Dark Hollow Bluegrass. The family friendly festival also features informal jams and workshops, as well as a big slate of outdoor programming, including road cycling rides, yoga, guided hikes and a fly fishing workshop. gravesmountain.com

Mountain Music Festival

NC Trail Days Elkin, N.C. June 1-4 The small town of Elkin in North Carolina’s Yadkin valley sits at the confluence of three trails: the Mountains-to-Sea Trail, the Overmountain Victory National Historic Trail, and the Yadkin River Paddle Trail. Accordingly, this four-day event celebrates the bounty of recreation opportunities in the area with live tunes, outdoor vendors, guided hikes, mountain bike clinics, and an adventure film festival. nctraildays.com

Bonnaroo Music and Arts Festival Manchester, Tenn.

June 15-18 The multi-genre mega fest, which takes place on a 700-acre farm in the middle of Tennessee, has big things planned for this summer.

The festival’s top billing goes to Kendrick Lamar, Odesza, and Foo Fighters. The undercard is quite impressive, too, featuring Tyler Childers, Lil Nas X, My Morning Jacket, and Sylvan Esso. bonnaroo.com

2023

and

9 Charlie Poole FESTIVAL 1 0 YEAR OF THE FIDDLE

June

Oak Hill, W.Va. June 1-3 ACE Adventure Resort hosts this West Virginia rager that mixes music and adventure, pairing a deep roster of jam bands with access to world-class whitewater and a top-notch trail network in the scenic New River Gorge.

Ride, paddle, and listen to sounds from a stacked lineup that includes Les Claypool’s Fearless Flying Frog Brigade and the Infamous Stringdusters. mountainmusicfestwv.com

Celebrating the Life & Talent of Charlie Poole with 2 days of:

Music | Competitions | Workshops | History Onsite Tent & RV Camping | Food Trucks Artisan Vendors | Celebration | & FUN

PERFORMANCES BY:

Dom Flemons | Riley Baugus | Chance McCoy

High Fidelity | David Davis & the Warrior River Boys

DaShawn & Wendy Hickman present Sacred Steel

Polecat Creek | New North Carolina Ramblers Jerron Paxton | Annie Woodford | Josie Toney

Ticket info at Charlie-Poole.com

Rockingham Community College, 215 Wrenn Memorial Rd, Wentworth, NC

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FESTIVAL guide 2023

R E D W I N G R O O T S M U S I C F E S T I VA L .

PHOTO BY RUBY SKY PHOTOGRAPHY

Appalachian Trail Festival in the Gap Hillsboro, Va. June 10 A day-long celebration of the Appalachian Trail will take place at a new venue this year. Located at the Gap Stage and Old Stone School, the festival includes trail talks and workshops, as well as tunes from Mink’s Miracle Medicine and Justin Trawick & the Common Good. roundhillat.org

Back Home Festival

ROMP Fest

Mount Solon, Va. June 23-25 Virginia string band the Steel Wheels host this annual gathering at Natural Chimneys Park in the Shenandoah Valley. The lineup is always impressive, featuring a full slate of Americana and bluegrass heroes, and the atmosphere is

Owensboro, Ky. June 21-24 The Bluegrass Music Hall of Fame puts on this picker’s paradise at the scenic Yellow Creek Park.

Serious string work will be on display over four days, including sets by Old Crow Medicine Show, Greensky Bluegrass, Sam Bush,

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and Molly Tuttle. rompfest.com

New Martinsville, W.Va. June 23-25 This free festival in downtown New Martinsville will feature a range of jam and roots acts, including Melvin Seals & JGB, Pink Talking Fish, 49 Winchester, and Dogs in a Pile. backhomefestival.com

Red Wing Roots Music Festival

Summer Concert Series GeorgiaMountainFairgrounds.com

The Rhododendron Festival April 14 – May 14, 2023 | FREE ADMISSION Friday & Saturdays: 10am-5pm | Sunday: 12pm-4pm Enjoy crafters, live music, food, drinks, daily seminars & more!

Hiawassee Highlands Wine Festival Saturday, May 13th | 11:00am to 5:00pm

Springtime in the mountains is better with wine, music & flowers!

The Beach Boys Friday, May 19th

Hiawassee Pro Rodeo

sum s e i r mer c e s t oncer 5.20 49 winchester with matt koziol 6.2

rebirth brass band with hoppie vaughan

6.16 ricky skaggs and kentucky thunder with jack schneider

6.30 sam bush 7 .8

garrison keillor

feat. robin & linda williams

7.21 the seldom scene

8.12 julian lage with danny knicely & aimee curl 8.26 dan tyminsky with zach top

scott miller 9.15 marty stuart & his fabulous superlatives 10.6 drew holcomb & the neighbors 9.2

May 26th - 28th

Enjoy the best bucking horses, bulls, & world class contestants from all over the U.S and Canada!

Camping Concerts Events Hwy 76 West | Hiawassee, Ga | 706-896-4191

limekilntheater.org M AY 2 0 2 3 | B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

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April 29

Rock n Roller - Old Fort Edition The 2nd annual back country road cycle ride begins and ends in Old Fort, NC. www.mcdowelltrails.org

April 29

Pioneer Day Festival

Celebrating western North Carolina’s pioneer heritage on the grounds of Mountain Gateway Museum, in Old Fort, NC. www.mgmnc.org

May 12

Hellbender 100 Miler

Annual trail foot race staged at Old Fort’s Camp Grier. www.hellbender100.com

May 20

WNC Bigfoot Festival

This popular celebration of all things Bigfoot takes place in downtown Marion, NC. www.marionbigfootfestival.com

June 3

Old Fort Trails & Trains Festival

w w w . b l u e r i d g e t r a v e l e r. c o m | 8 2 8 . 6 6 8 . 4 2 8 2 McDowell County Tourism Development Authority

...to festivals in Elkin.

Explore great music and the great outdoors.

June 1-4

Aug 4-5

NCTrailDays.com

Reevestock.com

Email info@exploreelkin.com for Elkin maps and event calendar.

www.ExploreElkin.com Photo by @Oliviajewellphotography

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

Inaugural year of celebrating Old Fort’s railway history, leading into a rich future with trails. www.oldfortfest.com

Details about event registration, and schedules are online.

BRISTOL RHYTHM AND ROOTS REUNION. PHOTO BY SOPHIE HARRIS

FESTIVAL guide 2023

intimate, scenic, and friendly for music fans of all ages. This year’s lineup includes the sounds of Old Crow Medicine Show, Robert Randolph, Watchhouse, and Sierra Ferrell. redwingroots.com

4848 Festival Snowshoe, W.Va July 13-15 Big jams will take place at the high elevations of West Virginia’s Snowshoe Mountain Resort. Acts on the bill at this growing festival include Greensky Bluegrass, Umphrey’s McGee, Cory Wong and Sierra Ferrell. 4848festival.com

Bike Bash West Virginia Bruceton Mills, W.Va. July 14-16 Mountain bikers can get their fill of fat tire fun at this big bash offering plenty of opportunities

to ride some of West Virginia’s finest singletrack. In addition to access to 50 miles of trails at the Big Bear Lake Trail center, the fest also features a bike expo, skills clinics, group rides, and live music. bikebigbearwv.com

FloydFest Virginia TBD, 2024 FloydFest had major plans to move to a new “Forever” home in Floyd County. But in late March it was announced the site would not be ready for use due to permit issues and organizers were ultimately forced to cancel this year's iterations of the beloved regional festival. Acts booked for 2023 included the Black Crowes, Goose, My Morning Jacket, and Sheryl Crow, so expect big things next year. floydfest.com

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FESTIVAL guide 2023

Front Porch Fest Stuart, Va. August 31 - September 3 Taking place in a scenic and relaxed stretch of the Blue Ridge, this family-friendly music and camping fest takes place on the picturesque Spirit Haven Farm in Patrick County. Lineup: Dangermuffin, Caitlin Krisko & The Broadcast, Big Daddy Love, and the Judy Chops. frontporchfest.com

Earl Scruggs Music Festival Mill Spring, N.C. September 1-3 A packed lineup of pickers will pay tribute to the late bluegrass pioneer Earl Scruggs at the Tryon International Equestrian Center.

Catch sets from Emmylou Harris, Greensky Bluegrass, Del McCoury Band, and Michael Cleveland. earlscruggsmusicfest.com

A N O V E R H E A D L O O K AT B R I S T O L R H Y T H M AND ROOTS REUNION. PHOTO BY JOHNSON CITY AERIAL PHOTOGRAPHY

Mountain Song Festival Brevard, N.C. September 8-9 Hosted by hometown favorites the Steep Canyon Rangers, this festival features a weekend of top acts in roots music at the Brevard Music Center’s open-air auditorium. mountainsongfestival.com

Bristol Rhythm and Roots Reunion Bristol, Tenn./Va. September 8-10 Taking place right on the Tennessee/Virginia borderline, Bristol celebrates its roots as the “Birthplace of Country Music” with a lively street fest that incorporates artists from many generations. This annual gala features a range of acts from national headliners to down home Appalachian pickers playing on more than 20 stages along the bustling main drag of State Street.

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www.highknoboutdoorfest.com

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

3 Days. 4 Nights.

Unforgettable Off ff--Road Fun!

Southern Gap Mountain Mayhem July 27-29, 2023

(Reserve Your Camping Now — sgadventures.com!)

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Mud Bogs Hill Climbs Drag Racing Rally Course Racing Good Food Vendor Row Music and More! $25 3-Day Festival Entry

Mountain Mayhem Music: The Jess Zimmerman Band, Midlife Crisis, Coal Camp Band and Mountain Valley Band.

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M AY 2 0 2 3 | B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

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FESTIVAL guide 2023

AMYTHYST KIAH. PHOTO BY BILLIE WHEELER

This year the festival will feature sets from Nickel Creek, Margo Price, Bruce Hornsby, and Watchhouse. birthplaceofcountrymusic.org

Moon River Festival Chattanooga, Tenn.

September 9-10 Tennessee musician Drew Holcomb hosts this annual bash at Coolidge Park. This year’s lineup— featuring Hozier, Caamp, Nickel Creek, and First Aid Kit—resulted in a fast sell out. But waitlist spots are available. moonriverfestival.com

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

Go Outside Festival Roanoke, Va. October 13-15 Roanoke is one of the most adventure-friendly towns in the Blue Ridge, and this annual fest spotlights the area’s abundance of mountain sports action with three days of fun events around downtown and in Elmwood Park.

In addition to running races, bike rides, and boat demos, you can learn to fly cast, sip local craft beer, and catch some live tunes. roanokegofest.com

TRUE APPALACHIAN CULTURE Sh ar e th e M us i c. ..

Grayson County, Virginia is Home to the Roots of OldTime and Bluegrass Music. Every year Grayson hosts over Ten Old-Time Music Festivals and numerous weekly Jam sessions from Spring until Fall. Experience the Music of the Mountains with us this year!

Sh ar e t he Adv e n t u re. ..

From the Highest Peaks of the Virginia Blue Ridge Mountains to the Oldest River in North America, there's an adventure waiting you on our trails, in our parks and on every winding road in between. Find your next Adventure in Grayson County Virginia.

Sh a re Wh at Y ou L ov e From the Highest Peaks of the Virginia Blue Ridge Mountains to the Oldest River in North America, there's an adventure waiting you on our trails, in our parks and on every winding road in between. Find your next Adventure in Grayson County Virginia.

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M AY 2 0 2 3 | B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

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Sleep Under the Stars Four Stunning Spots to Camp in the Southeast

BY N OAH POULOS

SPRING IS IN FULL SWING, AND that means it’s time to sleep under the stars. With perfect, pre-raginghumidity camping weather around the South, we’ve rounded up some of our favorite escapes for comfy nights of outdoor slumber. From low-key coastal islands to scenic sites high in the mountains, here are four prime spots to pitch a tent. .

Capers Island Heritage Preserve, South Carolina

For those looking for a remote coastal adventure, Capers Island in South Carolina is top choice. Located just an hour north of Charleston, the island is only accessible by boat via the Gadsdenville public boat launch.

As one of the few remaining undeveloped barrier islands on the Southeastern seaboard, Capers Island is a biodiversity hotspot, with habitats including several miles of beachfront, large salt marshes, and upland maritime forest.

A permit is required to camp (obtained from the SC DNR website) and then sites are available on a first come, first served basis. Sleeping on the beach, you’ll be surrounded by the wild nature of this island, which holds alligators, white-tailed deer, loggerhead sea turtles, and dozens of bird species including belted kingfishers, great blue herons, ibises, ospreys, and bald eagles.

Savage Gulf State Park, Tennessee Savage Gulf State Park holds the unbridled scenery of the Cumberland Plateau region of Tennessee. Sheer rock faces, deep canyons, and seemingly endless waterfalls define this rugged landscape. Deep in the gorge there are old growth eastern hemlock trees and remnants of abandoned moonshine stills. All this wildness and history is located

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

just an hour from Chattanooga and an hour and a half from Nashville.

During a stay in the park you can hike around the rim trail, which offers incredible views of the gorge and the surrounding valleys. In the heat of a Tennessee summer, you’ll want to take a dip in one of the seven different waterfalls or any one of the many spots in the park’s deep, cold streams. Blue Hole and Greeter Falls are two of the park’s most spectacular places for a swim.

With nine backcountry campgrounds hosting 62 total campsites, there is usually room to make a reservation in this vast park any time of the year. Of the camping options, Savage Falls Campground stands out, as campers sleep just a jaunt across a bridge from the cascading Savage Falls. Currently all campsites in the park are primitive, requiring a short hike in, but the park is slated to receive money to install front-country and RV sites in the coming years.

Wilson Creek National Scenic River, North Carolina Every time I go to Wilson Creek in Caldwell County, I am blown away by the stream’s immense beauty. While the lower section of the creek is famous among whitewater paddlers for its thrilling

rapids, upper Wilson Creek, north of Coffey’s General Store, hosts some remote places to camp right along the water. I have found few places better for a solo camping trip, with remote swimming spots, rock hopping, and fishing up and down the creek. Being part of Pisgah National Forest, reservations aren’t required at one of the existing sites along the upper section of the creek.

A bit farther downstream, the Mortimer Campground is an excellent choice for families.

Tucked near the small, old town of Mortimer, the campground is the ideal basecamp to explore the lush forests, trickling tributaries, and rushing waters all around.

The surrounding area feels like an old-timey river town and you’re almost certain to make friends with some camping neighbors.

While the campground is easily accessible from a gravel road, the area is far from any major roads and feels very remote. Make sure to check availability and book sites in advance.

Peaks of Otter Campground, Virginia Tucked in a narrow valley between two large mountains, the Peaks of Otter campground is quite

possibly the best camping option along the Blue Ridge Parkway.

Located off milepost 85.4 in Bedford County, the campground holds 24-acre Abbott Lake and a clear mountain stream that flows through.

Anglers should bring their gear, as the lake and streams are home to bass, bluegill, and trout.

This area is filled with pristine mountain meadows that explode with wildflowers, butterflies, and other pollinators throughout the summer months. Hiking opportunities near the campsites vary in difficulty; you can trek to the top of the surrounding mountains or have a leisurely stroll around Abbott Lake.

While the campsites are serene and rustic, Peaks of Otter offers many amenities including picnic tables, fire rings, light posts, drinking water, and flush toilets.

There are campsites available via advance reservation as well as sites accessed on a first come, first served basis. To resupply on camping essentials or to grab a meal, check out the nearby Peaks of Otter Lodge and Restaurant and the Sharp Top Country Store.

FROM THE SOUTH CAROLINA COAST TO THE M O U N N TA I N S O F T E N N E S S E E , T H E S O U T H I S FULL OF SCENIC CAMPING OPTIONS. PHOTO COURTESY OF MPOWERED

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SOLAR STRING LIGHTS FROM MPOWERD CAN ADD AMBIANCE TO A CAMPSITE. PHOTO COURTESY OF MPOWERD

Turn Camping into Glamping 5 ways to make your overnight setup more comfortable

BY MARY BETH SKYLIS

I STUCK MY HEAD OUT OF our desert fortress and watched the stars glimmer in the sky. My partner and I were in New Mexico on a climbing trip with our dogs.

We spend many nights a year in a tent, near home in the Blue Ridge and beyond, and although we love roughing it, sometimes a little luxury goes a long way. So on this particular night my partner hung string lights inside of our tent and we packed our full-sized pillows, which stretched across a large, inflatable mattress. Nearby, insulated mugs sat waiting to warm us from the inside out. While there are glamping resorts out there that offer plenty of creature comforts, the price for an overnight stay can be quite steep. So here are five DIY ways to upgrade your camping experience.

1. Level Up Your Lights

Lights create ambiance. And many outdoor lighting products don’t require a power source

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

since they re-charge themselves via solar during the day. Aspiring glampers can line their campsite or tent with a string of fairy lights like the MPowered Luci(R) Solar String Lights. You can also add lanterns or tiki torches to amplify the magic of the evening.

2. Bring a Bigger Shelter

A common source of camping discomfort is the cramped size of smaller tents. If you choose an option that’s too small, you’ll feel like you’re stuck in a coffin. But bringing a bigger shelter like the new six-person MSR Habiscape gives you and your camping partners more space to relax comfortably inside—a complete game changer when rough weather rolls in. While in New Mexico, my partner and I used a four-person tent in which we could stand up.

This made routine things like sorting gear and changing our clothes much easier.

3. Don’t Forget a Big Blanket and Pillows

In extremely cold temperatures, sleeping bags are an efficient camping tool, but they can restrict sleep mobility. During the warmer months, most campers will find that bringing a big blanket and pillows will substantially increase their sleep comfort. Bring a classic comforter or throw. And if you still want to feel like you’re roughing it in the backcountry you can bring a wool blanket like the Pendleton Wildland Heroes Firefighters Blanket, which will wick moisture away and fight off the camping stink with its naturally microbial properties.

4. Upgrade Your Kitchen

Backcountry campers are often limited by their cook systems. But if you have a front country spot with room for amenities, switching to a full camp system like the Camp Everest 2X stove with a table

can open up a variety of cooking opportunities. A versatile stove gives you the ability to simmer, and boil just like your at-home stove.

Additional kitchen tools that can maximize backcountry comfort may include a coffee AeroPress and an insulated mug like the Kleen Kanteen 14 oz Rise Mug. Or pack a mason jar and make a few backcountry cocktails.

5. Pack Your Camp Furniture

Another good way to enhance your glamping comfort is packing camp furniture. A high-quality camp chair like the Cascade Mountain Tech High-Back Chair is typically too heavy to carry on backpacking trips. But it’s the perfect piece for a casual glamping setup, allowing you to relax and unwind. Amenities like an electric cooler can also keep your food cold for longer, allowing you to pack more temperaturesensitive items like meat.

New River Gorge National Park & Preserve

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Find yourself in Strawberry fields.

This May, it’s all about getting your life back in motion. Take a road trip to Chesapeake, Virginia, where strawberry fields go forever. Where small moments become lifelong memories. Set up camp and let the hiking, biking and paddling through scenic panoramas commence.

Keep things fresh with farmers’ markets, “today’s catch” menus and local breweries. Plan your perfect getaway and let the moments begin.

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THE BANJO REMAINED A DISTINCTLY BLACK INSTRUMENT UNTIL THE 1830S. PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AMERICAN BANJO MUSEUM

Riff in Time Retracing the Banjo’s Not-So-Southern Roots

BY L AUREN S TEPP

Every camping adventure in the Alleghany Highlands is filled with #UniquelyAlleghany moments. #VaMountains

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Plan your Uniquely Alleghany getaway at VisitAlleghanyHighlands.com 540-962-2178 · 888-430-5786 · #UniquelyAlleghany COVINGTON · CLIFTON FORGE · IRON GATE · ALLEGHANY COUNTY

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Whether your home away from home is a tent or a camper, we have a campground for you. visitpatrickcounty.org

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

WHEN MOST PEOPLE THINK OF the banjo, they imagine a bearded, salt-of-the-earth man picking away in some lonesome holler. For good measure, their imagination may even embellish the scene with baying hounds, white lightning, and a mountain drawl thicker than honey.

But here’s the thing: While the banjo may be an icon of Southern Appalachia today, it hasn’t always been. That’s according to Parrish Ellis, a music instructor at Warren Wilson College in Swannanoa, N.C. “The modern banjo is derived from an old African musical instrument,” says Ellis. More specifically, the banjo dates back to the akonting: a three-stringed folk lute played by the Jola people of West Africa.

With a long, exaggerated neck and a body made from a calabash gourd, the akonting is a far cry from Béla Fleck’s pre-war Gibson or Steve Martin’s Deering Clawgrass.

And that’s because the akonting never made it across the Atlantic, at least in its physical form.

As Ellis explains, when Africans were forcibly brought to the

C O M P L E T E D I N T H E L AT E 1 7 0 0 S B Y S O U T H C A R O L I N A S L AV E H O L D E R J O H N R O S E , “ T H E O L D P L A N TAT I O N ” I S T H E F I R S T A M E R I C A N PA I N T I N G T O P I C T U R E A B A N J O - L I K E I N S T R U M E N T. P H O T O : P U B L I C D O M A I N

A park for every passion Whether you’re looking to rev up or wind down, we’ve got a place just for you. Nestled in some of the state’s most beautiful settings, Kentucky State Parks offer a wide range of activities – from outdoor adventures to nature escapes – and accommodations from rustic campsites and cozy cabins to resort park lodges. Plus, 13 nationally recognized state park golf courses get you out on the links to soak up incredible views.

Book your spring getaway at parks.ky.gov!

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Caribbean islands in the 1500s, Spanish conquistadors stripped them of their possessions—lutes included. But their native culture still accompanied them, “stowed away in souls and minds.”

In the 17th century, slaves began tapping into their “collective memory” to recreate the traditional instrument using gourds, wood, and animal hides. The result looked similar to the akonting, except with a few European touches like a flat fingerboard and tuning pegs.

Despite these white influences, the banjo—also referred to as the bangie, banza, bonjaw, and banjer—remained a distinctly Black instrument until minstrelsy became popular in the 1830s.

Egregiously racist, minstrelsy was a type of theater in which white actors wearing blackface makeup caricatured Black people as buffoonish and simpleminded, and live banjo was part of these performances.

Through this cultural appropriation, white musicians became interested in the banjo.

As noted by a newspaper from the

T H E B A N J O S T R U C K A C H O R D I N A P PA L A C H I A , WHERE IT BECAME A FIXTURE OF TRADITIONAL STRINGBANDS. PHOTO: PUBLIC DOMAIN

time, “All the maidens and a good many of the women also strum the instrument, banjo classes abound on every side, and banjo recitals

By the 1950s, the instrument’s twangy sound became a sort of anthem for mountain people—particularly white mountain people.

1 | RIC MAY 19-2

are among the newest diversions of fashion.”

Even Mark Twain was enamored with the instrument.

“The piano may do for lovesick girls who lace themselves to skeletons, and lunch on chalk, pickles, and slate pencils,” Twain stated. “But give me the banjo.

When you want genuine music…just smash your piano and invoke the

HMOND, V

glory-beaming banjo.”

The glory-beaming banjo especially struck a chord in Appalachia, where it was picked up and reinvented by music legends like Earl Scruggs, who played using an unconventional three-finger style that helped spawn bluegrass.

There was also Uncle Dave Macon and Snuffy Jenkins who, in the 1930s and 1940s, “made records

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GET ON THE WATER

Every day is a good day to be on the water. Visit Gaston County for a memorable paddling adventure along the Catawba River, and its South Fork.

Located just west of Charlotte in North Carolina, Gaston County offers tremendous opportunities to get outdoors and explore, making a great getaway. Get our FREE visitors guide for a complete list of things to do. GoGastonNC.org

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Come Out and Play!

WEEKENDS IN WINCHESTER

Whether it’s biking, hiking or anything in between, Winchester, KY has ample outdoor recreation for everyone: Scenic vistas, Kentucky River kayaking, trails, parks and more.

Scan this QR code for a complete list of outdoor activities waiting for you.

BRANCH OUT

Explore Gulf County, Florida Parks.

From inland swamps and oak tree-covered playgrounds to beachside trails and kayak launches, parks in Gulf County allow you to branch out and explore something new.

Visitgulf.com/Explore 36

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

playing banjos using their fingers to up-pick the strings instead of knocking down in a clawhammer motion,” says Ellis.

By the 1950s, the instrument’s twangy sound became a sort of anthem for mountain people— particularly white mountain people. And that was no accident, says Ben Krakauer, Ellis’ colleague at Warren Wilson.

“When the record industry first recorded music by Black musicians and rural whites in the 1920s, they chose to segregate styles of music by race,” explains Krakauer, a skilled banjo player highly regarded for his work as a solo act and in the band Old School Freight Train. Blues, jazz, and gospel music

MODERN BANJOS LIKE THIS 1988 GIBSON ARE QUITE DIFFERENT FROM THEIR CALABASH GOURD PREDECESSORS. PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AMERICAN BANJO MUSEUM

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CHARLOTTESVILLE, VA

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by Black performers was marketed as “race records” while banjo and fiddle music by white musicians was relegated to the “hillbilly” genre.

This, says Krakauer, created a “cultural narrative about what musical forms are played by or supposedly enjoyed by which social groups.”

In the coming decades, the perception of the banjo as an exclusively white instrument would be perpetuated in films and television shows like “The Beverly Hillbillies,” “Hee Haw,” and “O Brother, Where Art Thou?”

The 1972 thriller “Deliverance” would also push the stereotype, depicting banjo players as backwoods whites with a needless thirst for violence.

But reality tells a different story—one in which Black banjoists like Dink Roberts, Rufus Kasey, Elizabeth Cotten, and Lewis Hairston were all making influential music with the instrument throughout the 20th century. These musicians were simply “less visible” than their

June 1-3

2023

white counterparts, says Krakauer.

“But there have always been Black banjo players,” he confirms.

And there always will be, says Ellis. As he points out, Black banjoists like Dom Flemons, previously of the Durham-based string band Carolina Chocolate Drops, are making a lasting impression. “Young, Black musicians are picking up and mastering the instrument and bringing it full circle back into African-American culture,” says Ellis. “For me, that’s the most exciting development of the 21st century.”

N O R T H C A R O L I N A B A N J O I S T T R AY WELLINGTON. HIS ALBUM “BLACK BANJO” DEFIES GENRES BY MELDING JAZZ, BLUES, A N D C O N T E M P O R A R Y H I P - H O P. P H O T O B Y ROB LAUGHTER

A New, Old Sound

If you think you don’t like the snappy twang of the banjo, give these three contemporary pickers a listen.

Tray Wellington

North Carolina native Tray Wellington didn’t wait long to burst onto the music scene. By the time he finished high school, Wellington was touring with the Watauga County bluegrass group Cane Mill Road. Since then, he has earned himself an International Bluegrass

New River

Gorge, WV

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Spend the day on a Robert Trent Jones golf course or ride miles of mountain bike trails at Cacapon State Resort Park. Relax in the natural warm mineral waters at one of our many spas, and finish the perfect day with distinctive shopping and fine dining.

Whatever your game is, the perfect getaway is waiting for you at Berkeley Springs.

Learn more by visiting www.berkeleysprings.com.

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/ E N G I N E E R E D

I N

T H E

D O L O M I T E S

Music Association Momentum Instrumentalist of the Year award and produced a full-length album.

Released last year, “Black Banjo” defies genres by taking inspiration from jazz musicians like John Coltrane, blues icons like Muddy Waters, and modern hip-hop artists like Childish Gambino. traywellington.com.

Kathryn O’Shea

In 2018, singer-songwriter Kathryn O’Shea moved from Atlanta to her native Asheville with hopes of “tending her roots.” Since then, she’s been laying down cathartic tracks featuring her otherworldly voice and the electric banjo. The resulting sound is something of a country-fried Florence Welch. You can’t help but be

transported to a snowy mountain road, a freshly-cut lawn, or wherever else O’Shea chooses to wander. kathrynoshea.com.

Amythyst Kiah

Hailing from eastern Tennessee, singer-songwriter, guitarist, and banjoist Amythyst Kiah offers a gritty, indie folk-infused style she describes as “Southern Gothic.”

Fittingly, songs released on her 2022 EP “Pensive Pop” and her 2021 album “Wary + Strange” explore melancholic topics like suicide, racism, and alcohol abuse.

Listening is a weighty experience, sure. But Kiah is sure to lighten the mood with velvety smooth vocals, twangy riffs, and toe-tapping beats. amythystkiah.com.

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ASHEVILLE SINGER, SONGWRITER, AND B A N J O I S T K AT H R Y N O ’ S H E A . P H O T O COURTESY OF ARTIST

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

-PARTNER C ONTENT -

HOT SPOTS!

PATRIC K - FAIRY S TONE C AMPIN G

A Camping Adventure in ROCK CASTLE GORGE, VA

CAMPING PLACE HOLDER P L AA C EN HO R ABINS DL D EC GUIDE Break out your tents, sleeping bags and campfire necessities, and spend the night under the stars. Camping season has returned, which means unforgettable festival experiences, outdoor family adventures, and lasting mountain memories. From rustic primitive campgrounds to upscale cabin homes, we’ve got you covered with this guide to the best places to stay in the Blue Ridge backcountry.

Just off the Blue Ridge Parkway in Patrick County, VA, over 10 miles of adventure is waiting for you on the Rock Castle Gorge National Recreation Trail.

The area surrounding Rock Castle Gorge is littered with great camping options to suit a range of needs and comfort levels.

Rocky Knob Campground is located on the Blue Ridge Parkway and is host to the main trailhead. Meadows of Dan Campground is located just down the road in the Meadows of Dan Village, where you can find great food and shopping. Fairy Stone State Park offers camping as well as a range of other recreation opportunities after your hike, such as fishing and boating.

• Cross Roads Cafe Coffee, sandwiches and more near Fairy Stone • Concord Corner Store Regional artisan shop in Meadows of Dan, VA • Villa Appalaccia Winery - A Taste of Tuscany near Rock Castle Gorge

For those looking to upgrade, Fairy Stone State Park also offers yurts for rent, and cabins dot the area within and outside of the Park. Try The Honey House, an adorable cabin/tiny house located just down the road from the secondary trailhead, and at the base of the mountain.

For those hiking Rock Castle Gorge who want an all-inclusive experience, grab a permit and head to the Rock Castle Gorge Backcountry Primitive Camping Spots at the base of the mountain, right along Little Rock Castle Creek.

VisitPatrickCounty.org

HIC KORY KN OB C AMPERS

HOT SPOTS!

Shoreline Camping in OLD 96 DISTRICT, SC Whatever you’re looking for on your next camping trip, the Old 96 District, South Carolina is here to help. Located conveniently in the Piedmont and Sandhills area of South Carolina’s lush upstate, the Old 96 District encompasses the counties of Abbeville, Edgefield, Greenwood, Laurens, and McCormick. This area is home to some of the best camping, hiking, biking, water sports, and fishing in the region, all within convenient driving distance of Atlanta, Charlotte, Charleston, Columbia, Greenville, and beyond!

Visit Hickory Knob State Resort Park for a unique upscale camping experience and

• Break on the Lake Steak, seafood, and views on Lake Greenwood • Earth Connection Outfitters - Familyowned gear shop at Lake Thurmond.

• Savannah Grill Tasty country meals in Calhoun Falls.

enjoy a day on the 18-hole championship golf course. You can pitch your tent right on the beautiful shoreline of Lake Russell at Calhoun Falls State Park or park your RV at Hester’s Bottom Family Campground.

There you can enjoy a private boat ramp, beach, and a variety of rentals such as kayaks and paddleboards.

For a primitive camping experience, stay at LeRoy’s Ferry Campground on J. Strom Thurmond Lake. The 70,000-acre lake and its 1,000+ miles of shoreline provide excellent boating, water skiing, swimming, fishing, hiking, and picnicking!

VisitOld96SC.com

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Reserve a Campsite in a VIRGINIA STATE PARK

Whether you’re looking for a night of solitude or a place to camp with the whole family, there’s a Virginia State Park out there to fit your needs. More than half of the state’s 41 parks feature some type of lodging, from tent and RV sites to cabins, lodges, and yurts. Find your spot by the water or amongst the trees today.

For the Tent Fanatics

Known for its old growth forest and sightings of American bald eagles, Caledon State Park offers a quiet getaway just off the Potomac River. With its six hike-in and paddlein primitive campsites, you’ll need to pack all of your supplies with you, including water for drinking and cooking. Hungry Mother, one of the original six state parks, is a great spot for the whole family. Three campgrounds offer a number of tent sites, plus access to miles of trail, swimming in the lake, and fishing for bass. With three miles of beautiful shoreline, James River State Park is an excellent option at the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Spend your days paddling, floating, and fishing the river before curling up HOT SPOTS!

• Bobcat’s Bait & Tackle All your fishing needs at Occoneechee State Park.

• Downriver Canoe Company - Shenandoah River canoe, kayak, and tube rentals.

• Wooden Pickle Food & Spirits - American Pub near Hungry Mother.

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by the fire at night. For a multi-day adventure, camp along New River Trail State Park as you hike or bike the 57-mile linear park.

For the RV Explorers

Pack the rig and hit the road to Claytor Lake State Park for a weekend of fun on the water. Your campsite offers the perfect home base as you explore the 4,500acre lake.

Surrounded by forest, Bear Creek Lake State Park is an oasis for outdoor enthusiasts looking for a peaceful getaway. Follow the 15.7-mile Cumberland Multi-Use Trail or go for a relaxing float on the Willis River. Head out to Virginia’s Eastern Shore where Kiptopeke State Park is the go to spot for fun on the Chesapeake Bay. Experience this unique coastal habitat from the extensive boardwalk system or by boat.

Just off the Blue Ridge Parkway, Fairy Stone State Park features activities for families of all ages.

Search for the legendary fairy stones, swim or fish in the lake, and navigate 10 miles of trails.

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

HUN GRY MOTHER S TATE PARK

For the Cabin and Yurt Lovers

Find a spot to sit back and relax at Shenandoah River State Park as the water winds through the valley. The cabins and yurts feature modern amenities that make for a cozy night’s rest as you hike and paddle your way through the park.

Access Virginia’s largest lake from Occoneechee State Park. With boat rentals, a splash pad, and recordsetting catfish, this is a great summer

destination with plenty of sleeping options for your stay. Carved out over thousands of years, Natural Tunnel State Park is a towering limestone formation best viewed from the ridge or the tunnels floor. A quiet campground amongst the mountains is an ideal place to unplug and rest.

Rent one of the yurts at Powhatan State Park just off the historic James River. View wildlife from the trail or the water before enjoying a meal on your yurt’s deck.

This is just a small sampling of what the Virginia State Parks have to offer travelers from all over the region. Discover even more opportunities for camping by the ocean or refreshing mountain lakes—with friends or on your own—as you experience a wide variety of landscapes across the commonwealth.

VirginiaStateParks.gov

HOT SPOTS!

WILDERNESS PRESIDENTIAL RESORT C ABIN WITH FRONT PORC H LIGHT

Find your Spot in

SPOTSYLVANIA COUNTY, VA Nestled between Washington DC and Richmond, just off I-95, you’ll find a harmonious blend of rural landscapes and outdoor adventures. Spotsylvania County is a one-of-a-kind camping destination with access to award-winning breweries and wineries, terrific lodging, diverse dining options, and more. With its mix of attractions, history, and beautiful landscapes, you are sure to find your spot here!

Reserve a cabin in Lake Anna State Park, where you can discover a beautiful lakefront with easy-access boat ramps, family picnic areas, plentiful fishing spots, and endless trails for hiking, biking, and horseback riding.

Rocky Branch Marina and Campground,

also located on Lake Anna, offers tent and RV sites, which include amenities like a country store and a bathhouse!

Take the family on a tour of historic Spotsylvania via the African American Heritage Trail or Tidewater Trail. Afterward, head to Wilderness Presidential Resort to tackle the aerial ropes course or take part in mini golf or archery before setting up your campsite. Check out Spotsylvania’s many historic battlegrounds, museums, and markets before settling down at Alpha Farm Bed & Breakfast. Get the cabin feel in a farmland setting, and watch the sunset over the picturesque countryside.

VisitSpotsy.com

CREDIT FLOYD FAMILY C AMPGROUND

HOT SPOTS!

Copious Campsites in FLOYD COUNTY, VA

What could be better than waking up to breathtaking views in the Blue Ridge highlands of Virginia? Floyd County is home to the Little River, Buffalo Mountain, and 40 miles of the Blue Ridge Parkway, making it the perfect destination for outdoor adventure and camping.

Escape modern amenities and sleep under the stars in the Appalachian backcountry. The Blue Ridge Parkway offers backcountry camping permits for Rock Castle Gorge, where you can experience unforgettable views of a 1500-foot ravine, carved by the waters of Rock Castle Creek. Located just off the Parkway, Crooked Mountain provides primitive creekJAMES RIVER AT SCOTTSVILLE side and open-field camping, ideal for travelers

PEACEFUL C AMPIN G IN WY THEVILLE

Fun-Packed Camp Days in WYTHEVILLE, VA Fill your days with excitement before hunkering down for the night. Electrifying music festivals, eye-catching drives, panoramic views, and endless outdoor adventures all enhance your camping experience in Wytheville, Virginia. So, load up your camping gear and take a backroad to the Southwest Virginia Blue Ridge for some small town charm and outdoor fun.

Take a scenic drive through Jefferson National Forest before stopping at Big Walker Lookout, a staggering 100-foot observation tower with breathtaking views of mountain wilderness and lush farmland. The nearby Deer Trail Park and Campground offers rentable cabins, a stocked fishing pond, a heated pool, and an arcade! Adjacent to the Big Walker Scenic Byway is Stony Fork Campground, where you have access to more hiking trails and plentiful RV and tent sites.

For the hiking, biking, fishing, or horseback-riding enthusiasts, the New River Trail is the place to be! This 57-mile long,

• Buffalo Mountain Adventures - Camping equipment needs.

• Buffalo Mountain Ziplines - Outdoor family entertainment.

• Tuggles Gap Roadside Inn - Delicious sandwiches on the go.

looking to experience the backcountry without venturing far from the road.

For more accessible camping in Floyd County, park your RV or pitch your tent at Daddy Rabbit’s Campground. Take advantage of the site’s full-service amenities or rent one of their cabins before heading over to nearby Buffalo Mountain Nature Preserve for hiking and ziplining fun. At Floyd Family Campground, explore their 9-hole disc golf course, hiking and biking trails, and the camp store! Get your glamp on at Floyd Yurt Lodging or Indian Creek Cabins, where you can enjoy modern luxuries in a natural setting.

VisitFloydVA.com

linear State Park runs right through Wythe County, along the New River. Take in views of limestone cliffs and cascading water, as you set up camp at the Foster Falls area of the Trail. Here you can rent bikes and canoes, utilize boat launches, cast a fishing line, and peruse local gift shops. The newly opened Inn at Foster Falls is a perfect option for those looking to enjoy the New River Trail with access to modern amenities.

Music lovers rejoice! Wytheville is home to many music-based events like the annual July 4th Celebration & Street Festival, Millwald Theatre shows, and the annual Chautauqua Festival. Taking place from June 16 to June 24 in downtown Wytheville, the Chautauqua Festival is a free music and arts event with a parade, hot air balloons, games, food vendors, and more. To keep your visit wallet-friendly, head to Raven Cliff Recreation Area for peaceful primitive campsites off the beaten path.

VisitWytheville.com H O T SF P I SOHT ST!I P

• 7 Dogs Brewpub Short Term -Rentals Liveare music, food, and plentiful around craft beer.

Smith Mountain • Ghetti’s Café – Lunch Lake but be sure stop fortocoffee, book bagel early, as and pasta. availability goes • Seven Sistersfast!

Brewery - Trivia, games, and more craft beer.

CYCLIN G THE NEW RIVER TRAIL

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K AYA KI N G THE N E W RI VE R

• Battlefield Country Store – Sandwiches, coffee, milkshakes, and groceries.

• A. Smith Bowman Distillery – Virginia’s oldest distillery.

• Rapp Rocks Climbing Gym - Indoor family fun.

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

Woman of the Earth School North Carolina-based writer Mildred Barya celebrates wonders of nature in latest poetry collection.

BY ROBERT MCGEE

AS A CHILD GROWING UP IN Kabale, Uganda, Mildred Kiconco Barya often spent hours alone herding cattle, sheep, and goats.

She came to revere the land, paying attention not just to her family’s animals, but also to the subtle sounds of wind rustling through the grass and leaves. At an early age, Barya began to make up stories, and, when she was 5, she started writing them down.

She addressed her tales to imaginary pen pals in faraway lands, sharing details of African farm life where her family grew a variety of fruits and vegetables, along with millet, sorghum, and maize. “We always had lots of food,” Barya says, “and plenty of stories.” In her early attempts to connect with the outer world, Barya asked others about their lives—what they ate, what they liked to do. And she promised that one day she’d travel to meet them in person, even though airplanes were just shiny objects to marvel at as they crossed the sky.

As Barya’s wanderlust grew, so did her creative fire. But since the farm workload left little free time, Barya learned to write quickly, boiling larger ideas down into poems. Barya’s gift for nimble language, along with her desire to meet like-minded humans, led her to Makerere University in Kampala, where she studied literature and embraced any opportunity to listen, learn and visit the River Nile.

Like the famous river that Barya came to know and love, lives are winding too. In 2008, while attending a conference in Ghana, Barya met an American professor who encouraged her writing. By 2009, she was in the United States, one of six students chosen from a pool of 700 to pursue an MFA at Syracuse University. Barya’s own story continued to take many more twists and turns. Each time she seemed destined to return home, a

new path appeared: a teaching job at a prep school in Alabama; a PhD program in Denver; an offer to join the English Department at UNCAsheville.

Now settled in western North Carolina, Barya has released four full-length collections of nature-based poetry. Her latest, "The Animals of My Earth School," was published

by Terrapin Press just before Earth Day. In addition to full-time teaching, a devoted writing practice, and community involvement hosting the Poetrio Reading events at Malaprop’s bookstore in Asheville, Barya serves on the board of directors for African Writers Trust and Story Parlor. And yet, Barya carves out time to venture into the Southern Appalachian woods each day to run, reflect, and recharge.

“It’s essential to feed the soul and the body,” she says.

She also combines her love of forests and stories to connect with students through naturebased writing workshops—some of which are coordinated by Blue Ridge Institute for Educators, in partnership with the NC Museum of Natural Sciences. Melissa Dowland, manager of teacher education for

the museum, says, “Mildred is a gentle spirit who enthusiastically guides writers of all stripes and skill levels to observe the world closely and to draw connections between our experience of nature and our humanity.”

Barya shares her workshops with anyone interested in being outside and “being observant,” especially those who might benefit from unplugging from busy lives.

Participants describe Barya’s workshops as a unique blend of walking, writing, and "simply being."

When asked if she has a mantra, the dynamic Barya quickly replies, “All is well!” These are the first words she says to herself when she wakes up and the last before going to sleep, a mantra that helps maintain an upbeat healthy perspective.

She has another mantra she often shares with students: Obey your way. “These simple words from Dr. Barya both inspired and guided our groups to trust their unique intuitions and perspectives as we explored the outdoors during workshops,” says Megan Davis, NC Museum of Natural Sciences’ Coordinator of Teacher Education.

"She made writing feel as accessible and doable as breathing in and breathing out.”

Even Barya’s approach to harvesting food blends her soulful passions and meditative mindset. In spring, she’s happiest when she’s outdoors, gathering chickweed and nettles, followed by dandelion, black cohosh, and common heal for herbal tea. As seasons change, Barya’s foraging options include serviceberries, wineberries, blackberries, jujubes, papayas, pears, figs, chestnuts, and persimmons. But it’s not only food that piques her interest. Barya takes time to admire blacksnakes that wind past her porch to bask in the sun, and has written essays about their peaceful coexistence.

Other visiting wildlife include bears, turkeys, deer, owls, woodpeckers, box turtles and one wild cat that comes and goes at its whims. So it’s no surprise that mammals, reptiles, insects and birds populate her latest collection of poems. “My home is theirs too,” Barya says. “Our lives are all the better for recognizing this and for sharing.”

Wonder is a central theme in Barya’s work. Each morning, she gives thanks as she strolls from her back door to a knoll overlooking the French Broad River which, like the River Nile of her youth, has flowed northward for millions of years. As she gazes upon the shimmering water reflecting upward, she’s awestruck to have been transported to such a wondrous place on the other side of the world from where her own story began. In her poem ‘Falling in Love’, Barya writes:

Wh e n I boug ht t h e vehic l e, it was love— visuali z i ng myse lf t r ansport ed t o pl ac es of wond er.

P H O T O C O U R T E S Y O F M I L D R E D K I C O N C O B A R YA

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P H O T O C O U R T E S Y O F M A I N S P R I N G C O N S E R VAT I O N T R U S T

WHAT LIES BENEATH The Blue Ridge Snorkel Trail will change the way you see life

BY WILL HARL AN

MOST OF OUR LIVES, WE SKIM the surface.

When hiking and biking in the forest, we stick to the trails—thin ribbons in a larger, deeper, and wilder landscape.

Similarly, when we paddle a river, we experience only a thin skin of water. But there is a hidden world teeming below our boats.

At first, I thought it was mainly just rocks and a few fish down there.

Then I went snorkeling. That’s right: river snorkeling. Snorkeling isn’t just for oceans and coral reefs. In many ways, river snorkeling is even better.

Rivers are shallower, which means you are much closer to the critters.

And the critters are everywhere.

The rivers of the Southeast are some of the most biologically diverse on the planet. Our waterways are a global diversity hotspot for mussels, salamanders, crayfish, and fish. While most folks come here for the trout— most of which are not native and artificially stocked each year by fish hatcheries—there are 500 other species of fish in Southern streams that you have likely never seen.

Here are four more reasons to consider bringing a snorkel and mask on your next river adventure.

1.

2.

3.

4.

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Snorkeling is easy. It requires no special skills. Anyone can do it.

Snorkeling is relatively inexpensive. A basic mask and snorkel cost around $30. If you’re snorkeling in colder Appalachian streams, renting or buying a wetsuit might be worth it.

Snorkeling is badass. Snorkelers often spit on their masks to keep them from fogging up.

Snorkelers are the astronauts of aquatic spaces. Casper Cox calls snorkelers aquanauts: “with a mask of tempered glass you will float free, released from gravity’s pull, drifting though a watery world with quiet ease, exploring BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

new mysteries.”

You can snorkel on your own or with a guide. Guides will show you a lot of the hidden world that your eyes have not yet adjusted to see. Guides will also know the best spots. But a new snorkel trail will help anyone get started.

The Blue Ridge Snorkel Trail

The idea of a Blue Ridge Snorkel Trail was hatched by North Carolina Wildlife Resource Commission biologists Andrea Leslie and Luke Etchison. Both have dedicated a good chunk of their lives to protecting the diversity of species in North Carolina rivers and streams, and two years ago, in the middle of the pandemic, they began brainstorming about ways to introduce more people to the region’s astonishing aquatic diversity.

Most river recreation, such as fishing and boating, brings people above the water. But many of the wonders of western North Carolina streams are under the surface.

“It’s harder to care about something you’ve never seen,” says Etchison. “The more experiences that people have in our streams, the more they will want to protect them.”

So Etchison and Leslie began mapping out a Blue Ridge Snorkel Trail. They partnered with nonprofits including MountainTrue, Mainspring Conservation Trust, and the North Carolina Chapter of the American Fisheries Society to identify 10 unique and spectacular snorkeling sites across Western North Carolina.

Educational signs highlighting notable species will be posted at each of these sites, and kick-off events with guided snorkeling are planned for several locations.

Sites include public parks and access spots on beloved and biodiverse rivers, including the Cheoah River, Mills River, Tuckasegee River, Swannanoa River, Pigeon River, and Queen Branch of the Little Tennessee River.

What will you see?

Mussels: Mussels may seem simple—just a shell with a slimy foot.

Mussels are blind. Mussels are mostly immobile. They don’t even have a head or brain. Yet they pull off some incredibly complex stunts in the animal kingdom.

For example, how do immobile mussels transport their offspring upstream? They go fishing. Female mussels create elaborate lures with the fleshy parts that stick out of their shells. These lures look exactly like minnows—even though mussels themselves are blind. Unsuspecting fish swim up to the lure, and when the fish bites, the female mussel sprays her larval eggs into the fish’s mouth and gills, where they will grow for a few weeks. Then they drop off the fish miles upstream.

Mussels can also climb to the river bank and “pee” into the water to lure fish. And they are our river’s natural water cleaners: individual mussels filter up twenty gallons of water each day.

The Southeast is home to 269 species of mussels—91 percent of all freshwater mussel species worldwide—with names like monkeyface, snuffbox, rabbitsfoot, heelsplitter, and orange-footed pimpleback.

Fish: Tourists may come to Southern Appalachia for fall foliage, but aquatic folks know that springtime is the season of color underwater. During the spring mating season, rivers become a riot of color. Male fish display a rainbow of colors to attract females. Outside of the mating season, colorful fish like

tangerine darters, warpaint shiners, and redlips darters adorn the rivers.

It’s especially thrilling to see brook trout lurking in shaded pools and schools of stonerollers grazing on algae-covered stones.

Crayfish: The Southeast is the crayfish capital of the world.

Unfortunately, populations are plummeting, thanks to dams, pollution, mining, and large-scale agriculture and development.

Extinction is looming for half of all crayfish species. Just discovered last year, the Cataloochee crayfish is one of the larger crayfishes in the region and is found only in a few rivers around Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Hellbenders: You may see the king of North American salamanders and the unofficial mascot of the mountains: the Eastern hellbender.

These slimy brown beasts can reach lengths of more than two feet. They breathe through their skin and often shelter beneath large boulders.

The sights are stunning. But snorkeling also expands your other senses. Beneath the thrum of the current, darters talk to each other using underwater knocks, groans, and purrs. Bottom-feeding redhorses’ suction lips audibly pop. River stones clatter. Curious fish acclimate to your presence and swim closer. You become one with the river.

And after a day of snorkeling upriver, there’s nothing better than turning around and floating downstream—face down, dead man’s float, fully alive, and wholly immersed in underwater wonder.

Learn more at blueridgesnorkeltrail.com

New River Gorge National Park and Preserve

Here, exploring is never boring.

With Adventures on the Gorge as your guide, you’ll take summer vacation to the next level as you whitewater raft, hike, bike, and zipline through the New River Gorge National Park & Preserve.

Follow up on any adventure with top-notch dining and a cozy cabin stay.

A summer well-spent is on the horizon.

WVtourism.com/AOTG

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

KEEP ON TRUCKING For one couple, camping in the back of a hand-me-down Chevy is the ultimate bonding experience.

BY L AUREN S TEPP

HONEYMOONS ARE THE EPITOME of sexiness. These postnuptial respites are for bikinis and Mai Tais and macking on the beach. At least, that’s what I’ve seen in movies.

Personally, I spent my honeymoon— if you can call it that—spooning a spare tire in the back of a 2006 Chevrolet pickup.

You see, my wife and I are cheap.

Like reuse-tea-bags-three-times cheap. And so, when we decided to tie the knot two years ago, there was no talk of wedding venues or invitations. We didn’t bicker over dahlias versus roses, or whether Uncle Robby should sit next to his estranged sister, Aunt Lucy. Instead, we donned our finest Goodwill attire and headed to the magistrate’s office/county jail where hordes of inmates watched us say “I do” through a wall of greasy plexiglass.

Charming? Hardly. Cheap? Very.

After sharing our vows with 40 imprisoned party guests, Ashley and I sat excitedly on a curb in the parking lot. We were eager to commence our miserly matrimony.

So much love and so many savings, 'til death do us part! But then this wave of awkwardness hit us.

“I guess we should go back home now,” Ashley said tentatively, her voice trailing off. “But that feels weird, right?”

I agreed. Returning to my parents’ house, where we temporarily lived in a low-ceilinged space without air conditioning for $600 a month, did feel rather anticlimactic. But the thought of booking a hotel room—even a motel room—hurt my tightfisted soul. And so, after racking our brains, we finally decided on an inexpensive solution: camping. The

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR

only problem? We had pawned our two-person tent the month prior to pad our checking account.

“We still have the truck, though,” my wife reminded, gesturing to the dented hunk of metal parked 10 feet away.

A $1,500 hand-me-down from my brother’s landscaping business, the drab blue Chevy was far from perfect. There were half-inch-deep scratches down one side, foggedup headlights that lit the way no better than a beeswax candle, and an imposing check engine light that invariably flashed jack-o'-lantern orange when you were at your lowest. But she was, in fact, ours.

“Okay,” I said, giving Ashley’s hand a reassuring squeeze. “Let’s do it.”

Thirty minutes later, we were bumping down Wash Creek Road in North Carolina’s Pisgah National Forest with a gallon of water, two sleeping bags, and a rucksack of nonperishables squeezed between us. After a rowdy ride, we arrived at our campsite: a small gravel pad flanked by a babbling brook and a clutch of hemlocks.

“This spot is so beautiful!”

Ashley beamed, throwing her arms up in exaltation while stepping over piles of rusty metal, broken beer bottles, and candy wrappers left behind by previous occupants.

Meanwhile, a group of drunken men camping two sites over hooped and hollered, revving the engine of their diesel truck for no reason other than to hear it rumble.

Stuff like that would normally

bother me, or at the very least make me ruminate on the dangers of tetanus and diesel exhaust inhalation. However, I was too high on a lovey-dovey cocktail of feelgood neurotransmitters to mind.

The pile of human feces within smelling distance? So earthy and aromatic! The stale granola bar for dinner? Gourmet cuisine! The militia of mosquitos nursing my ankles?

The more, the merrier!

But as night fell and we crawled into the truck bed to prepare for sleep, the blissful bubble burst.

For starters, we had forgotten all about the spare tire. Technically, this emergency wheel should be tucked under the truck. However, the mechanism that’s supposed to hold it there (we refer to said mechanism as the “doodly dondle”) broke five years back, forcing us to store the spare in the truck bed. Alas, we’d be sharing a mattress-sized space with a hulking chunk of rubber.

Then there was the whole sleeping under the stars issue.

It sounds romantic, watching the galaxies twinkle and shine as you nod off to sleep. But neither Ashley nor I had ever camped without a thin sheet of polyester between us and the world, and the prospect suddenly felt terrifying.

“Maybe we should just go back home,” Ashley whispered after a long, tedious conversation about how black bears probably don’t crave human flesh. “Sleeping in a house sounds pretty good right now.”

And it did, considering that I was awkwardly stuffed between my wife

and a Goodrich tire in what may go down as the weirdest threesome ever. But I just couldn’t imagine letting defeat define our first night together as a married couple. What precedent would that set for future hardships? How would we face something as tragic as sickness or loss if we couldn’t toughen up and endure a night of iffy sleep in the back of a pickup?

I didn’t explain any of this to Ashley. It would’ve sounded melodramatic because, well, it kind of is. Instead, I kissed her forehead and reminded her that the chances of two people being eaten by a black bear are slim. “And I’m, obviously, tastier,” I quipped, snuggling closer to Mrs. Goodrich as my eyes grew heavy.

Since then, Ashley and I have made a habit of truck camping. I won’t lie and say each trip is perfect.

We’ve been startled awake by squalling bobcats, sub-freezing temperatures, and a particularly raucous lightning storm that forced us to spend the wee morning hours bunched up in the cab. We don’t have fancy gear—unless you call 30-year-old sleeping bags fancy— so we always wake up with sore backs and stiff necks, and breakfast is always something cold, bland, and prepackaged.

Still, those nights under the stars bring us closer together. They remind us that we don’t need a fancy beach vacation with bikinis and Mai Tais to be happy. We just need one another. Oh, and a rusty old truck.

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THE OUT AND BACK

AN OPEN LETTER TO STRAVA

BY G R A H A M AV E R I L L

Dear St rava, I hope you’re doing well. I’m writing this letter to tell you how much I enjoy your social media/ fitness tracking platform, which has been a constant companion on my bike rides and runs for the last several years. I’m old enough to remember riding my bike before you were created and let me just say those rides were empty wastes of effort. Sure, I was burning calories and enjoying myself, in theory, but was I really? How could I be if there was no digital record of those calories and enjoyment? Looking back, I wonder why I even bothered.

Strava, you do a lot of things right. You turned a perfectly healthy endeavor (cycling) into an obsessive way to compete with my friends. You gave me concrete metrics that quantified a silly bike ride in the middle of the work day.

With your GPS tracking and map feature, you’ve given me yet another opportunity to draw a penis. I can’t thank you enough for all that you’ve done for me personally and society as a whole. I like to imagine millions of immature cyclists riding penis shaped routes around their favorite neighborhoods. If that’s not a step towards world peace, I don’t know what is. So, thank you, Strava.

But might I take a moment to offer a bit of constructive criticism?

Because, Strava, you’ve ruined my life. Before you came around to break down every one of my pedal strokes, the only other cyclists I could compare myself to were my friends on our group rides. I typically ride with a bunch of other middle-aged fathers who are well past their prime like me, so I thought I was pretty good at riding bikes.

But ever since downloading your

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

MIDDLE-AGE METRICS

app, which is so freaking global in its scope (95 million active users, good for you!), I’m being compared to all sorts of people who are not middle-aged fathers past their prime. All of the sudden, my effort up a notoriously brutal hill on the edge of my hometown is being compared to the effort of a user named JohnnySpandex who knocks out the climb in roughly half the time it takes me to get to the top? What the hell?

I thought I was fast, Strava, but apparently, I’m moving at the pace of a sloth compared to a lot of cyclists out there. Downloading the app should come with a warning label, similar to the packaging on cigarettes, explaining how Strava is not only addictive, but will ruin your sense of worth as an athlete.

Logging a ride on Strava is like standing at a urinal next to John Holmes. I simply don’t measure up.

And why don’t I measure up, Strava? Because JohnnySpandex rides his bike all the freaking time.

Because JohnnySpandex works two days a week and doesn’t have a wife who gives him the stink-eye when she catches him trying to sneak his bike out of the garage instead of raking the leaves.

Because JohnnySpandex is a semipro who races 20 weekends out of the year. Of course, I can’t compete with JohnnySpandex; our lives are completely different. We shouldn’t even be in the same category.

So, here’s what I’m suggesting, Strava: a radical handicapping system that automatically adjusts the time and effort of a cyclist or runner based on their lifestyle.

Currently, you put athletes in separate categories based on weight and age, which is a nod in the right direction, but let’s take it a step further because my weight and age honestly doesn’t impact my cycling prowess as much as, say, how many hours I spend in the office. Or the fact that I own a home and have to spend most of my time cleaning gutters and perusing the aisles of Home Depot.

The handicapping system would basically work the way tax deductions work. If you’re married, you get one percent of your total

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR

time on a ride reduced. If it takes you an hour to ride a 12-mile loop, the handicapping system adjusts your time to 59 minutes and change.

If you’re married and your partner doesn’t ride bikes and strongly suggests you spend your time doing other things, take one percent off your total ride time. Another one percent if you own a home.

If you have a kid, you get another one percent of your time on the ride reduced. Multiple kids? Your deductions increase exponentially.

And if your kids play team sports, just add the deduction you see fit because, God knows, you spend most of your time watching Junior play sports. If you have a job, like an actual job where you go to a physical place, you get one percent of your total ride time reduced.

If your boss is a dick who pays attention to how long you take for lunch, take another percent off your time.

If you’re divorced and split custody, those child deductions are erased because you get every other week to yourself. But single parents with full time jobs and full custody

get 20 percent of their ride time taken off the top, so chances are, they’ll be King or Queen of the Hill on every segment they ride, and I’m ok with that because it’s a miracle that a single parent who works has the time to ride a bike anyway and they should get a digital crown for their effort.

The deductions seem trivial, but they add up. Put it all together and it might have taken me 32 minutes to climb that brutal hill outside of town, but after the handicapping system makes its lifestyle adjustments, my time is 27 minutes, because I’m carrying the weight of fatherhood, gainful employment, marriage, and homeownership with me on every ride. That’s my handicap, and it evens the playing field so all these 25-year-old semi-pro cyclists who have nothing pulling them away from the bike don’t run away with all of the King of the Hills in my town.

In summation, thanks for all you do. Implement the Mid-Life Boost Handicapping system now.

Yours truly, Graham Averill

Your Next Adventure STARTS HERE

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GRA New Lo ca ND RE- tion OPE NIN G

SAL May E 11–1 4

THE GOODS

BACKPACKING GEAR

THE PATH AHEAD The trails are calling. It’s time to gear up and go backpacking in the wilds of the Blue Ridge (and beyond). Here's the best equipment to make your journey easier and lighter.

SALEWA GREGORY

OUTDOOR VITALS

BY D O U G S C H N I T Z S PA H N RAB

PACT

OSPREY

ROYAL ROBBINS

LEKI

Osprey

Atmos AG LT 65 Here’s a pack for those of us who want to keep it light but not obsess over ounces. Tipping the scales at just over four pounds, this hauler provides more comfort and stability than ultralight packs, thanks to Osprey’s AntiGravity system, which integrates a hip belt and back panel and easily adjusts on the fly. Plus, it includes more features than you would expect from a more minimalist pack, including a raincover, removable sleeping pad straps, and a floating top section. $290; osprey.com

Gregory

Jade 53 This svelte women’s overnight pack weighs less than four pounds and has a suspension system that shifts with your torso, keeping movements easy and stable when you are navigating rough terrain. And it gets extra points because it’s built for female frames with special emphasis on how the pack conforms to and rides on the hips.

Bonus: A nifty clip system makes it easy to remove or secure a hydration bladder inside. $220; gregorypacks.com

Salewa

Pedroc Pro Powerflex Mid Continuing with our theme of lightweight power,

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

this supercharged speed hiker has the brawn to support your ankles when you are carrying a full pack but doesn’t cramp your style. Weighing in at under 14 ounces, it will put a spring in your step when you are crushing on packed dirt and handle the rigors of a Blue Ridge bushwhack to reach a remote summit. $200; salewa.com

Leki

Black Series FX Carbon An all-natural cork Aergon Air grip keeps these hiking poles comfortable—whether they are wet or dry—and the internal core locking device is easy to manage with just one pull. At a mere eight ounces per pole, they are adjustable from 110–130 cm and store down at an easy-to-stash 38 cm. $270; leki.com

PACT

Lite Kit We already loved PACT for its smart, all-in-one poop kits for car camping. The new backpacking version, which weighs just four ounces, includes an aluminum shovel for burying your waste. And there’s more. Inside the handle are 12 compostable wipes and 30 tabs that aid in decomposing your feces. This may sound like TMI, but it’s critical to properly dispose of waste in the backcountry. $35; pactoutdoors.com

Rab

Mythic Ultra 180 Good down to freezing, this ultralight sleeping bag saves ounces and space with an item that usually hogs up both. Rab got the weight down to just 14 ounces by using Thermo Ionic Lining Technology, a heat-reflective fabric treatment that ensures your body heat is not wasted during the night. It’s no pushover, either; ripstop nylon on the outside means you can confidently roll it out on the open ground. $600; rab.equipment

Outdoor Vitals

Nebo Windbreaker The perfect layer for summer in the mountains, this shell will cut the chilly wind on an exposed ridgeline or just keep you warm as the sun sets.

At a scant four ounces, it packs down into a water bottle or stash pocket so you can grab it in a hurry as the weather shifts. $125; outdoorvitals.com

Royal Robbins

Venture Crew Sock Socks are the forgotten essential when it comes to backpacking gear—but they can make or break a trip. Made with a blend of recycled polyester and hemp, these babies not only feel soft as you pound the trail, they wick away sweat so you don’t stink in camp. $22; royalrobbins.com

PETZL HEADLAMPS...

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50:50 BURN-TIME-TO-BRIGHTNESS for reliable performance. ...THESE ARE THE PETZL DIFFERENCES WORTH JUSTIFYING. ©2022 PETZL DISTRIBUTION

REACH ADVENTURE SEEKERS IN OUR JULY ROAD TRIPS ISSUE! Space Reservation Deadline: JUNE 1 CONTACT US TO RESERVE YOUR SPACE TODAY ADVERTISE@BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

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COVER Rainbow Eco Tee No dyes.

No chemicals.

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100% recycled. recoverbrands.com

CONTEST Coming Soon! Enter your photo for a chance to win starting June 5th photo.blueridgeoutdoors.com

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

BROUGHT TO YOU BY

THE GOODS

FESTIVAL GEAR

CREATURE COMFORTS

Festival season is here and it’s time to stock up on the gear that will make your time in tent city even groovier.

TVLA

TAALUMA TOTES

BY D O U G S C H N I T Z S PA H N

SOLO STOVE

MINUS 33

PURCELLOS 1789

COTOPAXI

RUNHOOD

Cotopaxi

Vuelta Performance Windbreaker Jacket You don’t want to lug around a big jacket for when nights get cool during festival season.

Light, easy to squash down small, and able to ward off a chill, this recycled nylon windbreaker is just the ticket. $130; cotopaxi.com

TVLA

The Align[Mat] V1: Cork Yoga is an integral part of so many festivals, whether in formal morning classes or just practicing with friends. Created by Coloradobased yoga teacher and frequent festival fixture Janelle Holter, TVLA’s mats provide easy to follow alignment guides as part of their sleek design. And the new cork mat provides plenty of traction even when you get sweaty. $108; tvlashop.com

Minus 33

White Mountain Woolen Camp Throw Blanket A comfy blanket should be the first thing you pack when headed out for a weekend of music, campfires, and serial chilling. This merino snuggler gets the job done in style and gives off classic vibes. The only problem? We tend to fall asleep whenever we wrap up in this baby. $50; minus33.com

Runhood

Rallye 600 Love it or hate it, we are tied to our devices— whether we are gig economy self-starters or Instagram narcissists. But power is hard to come by when you are camped out in festival land. This modular unit is the answer for those who need to be plugged in off the grid. It offers up 648 Wh capacity, 1200W peak power, and 600W AC power that can be recharged via an AC plug at home or solar panels (sold separately). Keep several batteries charged then swap them out when you need them. $699; runhoodpower.com

Solo Stove

Mesa XL This picnic-table version of the powerful Solo Stove makes any camp a little bit cozier without all the hassle and transportation logistics of a larger portable fire pit. Burn wood or pellets—it’s safe on an included stand and keeps the afterhours acoustic jam session warm into the night. $80; solostove.com

Taaluma Totes

The ideal stylish bag for schlepping your stuff around during a full day of lineups (and food lines), these totes are far more than just backpacks. Each is uniquely sourced from small

suppliers of local fabrics from developing countries around the globe. They are then sewn in the U.S. by workers with disabilities and 20 percent of the profits go back to farmers and villages in that developing country in the form of micro loans. This particular bag was made from traditional fabric from Germany. $95; carryacountry.com

PurCellos 1789

Ready to sip a little something after all the shows? This fine small batch American straight bourbon goes down just right by the campfire.

It’s the brainchild of Tomeka and Herbert Purcell, who wanted to create a sexy drink in a market where African American entrepreneurs like them represent only 1% of the bourbon distillers out there. $65; purcellos1789.com

How to Write One Song

Jeff Tweedy’s latest book somehow demystifies the process of writing a song while, at the same time, elevating it as an art form. The Wilco frontman and solo artist (who has spent time rambling the wilds with actor Nick Offerman and author George Saunders) digs into his own creative process to help you discover how you can do the same. It’s a read that’s both fun and necessary—much like so many of Tweedy’s own songs. $23; penguinrandomhouse.com

M AY 2 0 2 3 | B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

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TRAIL MIX

FRESH TRACKS

OUR FAVORITE SONGS IN MAY

DREW HOLCOMB AND THE NEIGHBORS WILL RELEASE THE NEW ALBUM “STRANGERS NO MORE” ON JUNE 7.

P H O T O B Y A S H T I N PA I G E

Best New Music from the Blue Ridge and Beyond

BY J E D D F E R R I S A N D DAV E S TA L L A R D

EVERY MONTH OUR EDITORS curate a playlist of new music, mainly focusing on independent artists from the South. In May we’re highlighting new tunes from Drew Holcomb and the Neighbors and Leftover Salmon.

THE REDS, PINKS & PURPLES

“Too Late for An Early Grave” Glen Donaldson, who records as The Reds, Pinks & Purples, has an anthem for the overworked and underpaid. “Too Late for An Early Grave” laments the malaise of the daily grind, but sonically this tune is anything but a slog, as Donaldson mines the old-school carefree sounds of the Cure and the Psychedelic Furs. The track comes from the new album “The Town That Cursed Your Name.” – J.F.

LEFTOVER SALMON

“Simple Twist of Fate” Colorado’s Leftover Salmon helped pioneer a movement of jamgrass bands in the late 90s and early 2000s, but now the longstanding crew of nimble pickers is paying tribute to some of their own influences with the new covers album, “Grass Roots.” Here they offer an up-tempo take on Bob Dylan’s whimsical folk tune “Simple Twist of Fate,” first heard on the landmark LP “Blood on the Tracks.”

Throughout the new album—out May 19—Salmon also cover tunes by the Grateful Dead and David Bromberg with help from a cast of friends that include Billy Strings and Oliver Wood. – J.F.

ALISON BROWN (FEATURING STEVE MARTIN)

“Foggy Morning Breaking” Alison Brown’s latest release represents the nexus of the genius

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

of two banjo masters: Brown herself and acclaimed comedian/actor Steve Martin. Brown and Martin wrote this instrumental masterpiece together, playing contrasting banjo traditions both with and against each other, as Brown’s Scruggsstyle rolls provide the counterpoint to Martin’s traditional clawhammer stylings. Also featured are bluegrass heavyweights Stuart Duncan on fiddle and Sierra Hull on mandolin, making this a must listen for bluegrass fans everywhere. – D.S.

NICOLAS JAMERSON

“Holler Child” Eastern Kentucky singer-songwriter Nicolas Jamerson first garnered national acclaim as one half of the country duo Sundy Best.

Having moved on to a solo career, Jamerson is set to release his newest album “Peace Mountain” this month. “Holler Child” opens in a style reminiscent of Guy Clark, with just Jamerson and his guitar, before a full band swells behind him, with Jamerson offering an ode to that larger-than-life playground hero we all knew as a kid. Whimsical and tragic, the song ends on a powerful, nearly gospel note, as Jamerson sings wistfully of meeting up with his friend, gone too soon, somewhere in the hereafter. – D.S.

GEESE

“3D Country”

Indie rockers Geese explore the weird and wild in this sevenminute epic that tells the tale of a cowboy who goes too hard on the psychedelics and has trouble finding his way back from his trip. Cameron Winter narrates with theatricality while the band punches out some country-tinged rock with gospel, calland-response vocals. Then, to match the theme, the song goes completely off the rails towards fuzzy splendor, before peaking with a guitar-led crescendo. It’s the title track of a new album out June 23. – J.F.

DREW HOLCOMB AND THE NEIGHBORS

“Find Your People” Tennessee tunesmith Drew Holcomb continues to build his catalog of upbeat anthems with this celebratory ode to true friends.

“You got to find your people/The ones that make you feel whole/That won't leave your side when you lose control," Holcomb sings, backed by a stomp-and-clap rhythm and some front-porch banjo picking. The joyful track comes from the new album “Strangers No More,” which will be released on June 7. – J.F.

THE MILK CARTON KIDS “All of the Time in the World to Kill”

Don't take at face value the title track of The Milk Carton Kids’ latest release. Listen closely to the lyrics—a task so easy when Joey Ryan and Kenneth Pattengale are singing—and you feel fully the weight of not taking things for granted, of living in the moment and not assuming tomorrow is a given. Served up within their always lush harmonies and delightfully spare instrumentation, Ryan and Pattengale plead for us to focus on what is important and let go of the things that distract us from purposeful living. – D.S.

EILEN JEWELL

“Lethal Love” Early in 2020, Eilen Jewell found herself in the mountains of Idaho, reeling from a dissolving marriage.

Trying to make sense of her new reality, Jewell penned “Lethal Love,” a groovy track reminiscent of 1960s beach rock. Behind reverb-laden guitar, Eilen lays bare her hurt and healing and spins most eloquently the notion that love can be just as dangerous as it is wonderous.

Jewell left her mountain solitude on the path to renewal with a collection of tunes that make up her new record, “Get Behind the Wheel,” which drops this month. – D.S.

To hear these songs and more, follow the Blue Ridge Outdoors’ Trail Mix playlist on Spotify.

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