Review: B.B. Italia serves up good food, but service leaves something to be desired

Sometimes, you are so looking forward to a new experience that it's even more disappointing when it doesn't lead up to those expectations. I'm afraid that was my impression when I tried, for the first time, the new B.B. Italia restaurant in Sugar Land Town Square, which opened last fall in the expansive space formerly occupied by the Charming Charlie's boutique shop which closed a few years ago.

B.B. Italia had been under construction for several months leading up to that opening, and from the outside looking in, it promised to a very inviting space. Indeed with its checkerboard-tile floors and brick walls, the place gives off a definite turn-of-the-lastcentury vibe. One of my dining companions likened the ambiance to that of the late, lamented "Farrell's" ice-cream parlors like the one that once graced The Galleria.

That old-fashioned feel is enhanced by the wall of photographs of classic Italian and Italian-American photographs in the bar area, and by the mix of classic-era jazz standards (with an occasional pop tune and the theme from The Godfather) wafting from the sound system.

The space is huge, and therein lies part of the problem. Between the open dining room, the direct access to the sounds of the kitchen, the music and the lack of any kind of buffering, it was hard for my party to hear other, or even our server. This was on a midday on the weekend, and I'm guessing it might be much harder during a busy evening.

While it seems to be going for the family market, it was also surprising that the prices are fairly high.

That said, the menu has a wide selection of offerings, and not just of the Italian variety. There's a healthy selection of antipastos, soups and salads, pastas, pizzas, and full plates. Steaks of beef and veal are available, as are submarine and hero sandwiches. The restaurant even has its own ice cream parlor in the back.

My party started with the Pocaccia bread service, with several different dips and spreads. It was excellent.

For my main meal, I went with the linguine with clam sauce, lightly seasoned with white wine and garlic.

It also was very good, with an al dente quality that was nice. My dining companions also enjoyed their meals, even taking the remainders home.

The service, however, was a bit slow and not as