3 minute read
Everyone is Optimising External
Henning Korb is jointly responsible for the buying strategy of Apropos The Concept Store. As the managing director of the recently opened menswear store in Hamburg, his focus is on men. He sat down with style in progress to talk about his personal experiences in the luxury segment. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photo: Apropos The Concept Store
The chicken or the egg - which came first? Did an increasing interest of men in fashion come first, or a fashion range that inspired men to care more about clothing?
Apropos The Concept Store started with a men’s department more than 30 years ago. Even back then there was exciting fashion for men on the market. For example, we stocked the debut menswear collection by the likes of Prada and Jil Sander. They performed very well too. Today, there is a real flood of information and impressions. In a globalised world with social media channels, the individual image is becoming increasingly important. Everyone is optimising their external perception as best they can. A renewed body consciousness goes hand in hand with an increased interest in fashion and lifestyle topics.
Unlike women’s fashion, which starts from zero every season, one can see an evolutionary process in menswear col lections. Many items presented in the following season are a logical progres sion of current trends and bestsellers. Does this make the buying process eas ier in general or easier to structure?
One cannot say that designer collections for men are always based on an individually created look. During a recent interview, Demna Gvasalia said that he believes it is very important that his menswear collection for Balenciaga is just as creative as the womenswear collection, meaning that it shouldn’t merely be a logical progression from last winter. Or just look at Alessandro Michele and his work for Gucci? I don’t think that the new designers will allow others to limit them in this regard. We feel the same in terms of our buying process. Our customers are looking for highlights and nobody buys the same highlight twice. That’s why renewal is so essential in the luxury segment.
Male role models are - supposedly - more accessible. Nevertheless, they attach great importance to clothing. They are, however, never dressed up or foppish. How important are these positive examples?
As I said before, social media channels like Instagram are a real force. Even in the menswear segment, we have noticed that customers are willing to let themselves be guided or inspired. Unlike in the women’s fashion segment, the men’s market is dominated by the likes of athletes or DJs. There are less influencers who attained fame by merely curating an Instagram account.
Grooming, perfumes, creams, and barbers - the fact that men can dedicate time to their personal care has finally arrived in the mainstream. Who do you see as the pioneer of this trend? Who made it socially acceptable?
The increased body awareness over recent years, as well as the interest in healthy eating, sports, and care products, was certainly caused by the ever-present male beauty ideal. David Beckham definitely had a major impact in this respect. What was considered metro sexual early 2000 is now normal. He took away the men’s fear of vanity.
Does your male target group buy more outfit-oriented than women?
Men usually buy more than one item. However, their focus is quite clearly on strong individual items that can be integrated into their existing wardrobe. They spend less time thinking in outfits.
Do men appreciate advice in a different way?
That is absolutely the case! Men are much more loyal than female customers. Once they are satisfied with the advice they received, they are strongly attached to the person who gave the advice. Many of our male customers call in advance to make appointments and to ensure that their favourite sales assistant is present at the time.
“Nobody buys the same highlight twice”, says Henning Korb while explaining the importance of rejuvenating the menswear segment.
