style in progress 3/2015 – English Edition

style in progress

#3/2015

The time for moaning is over. We have set out to change things.

Christiane Arp, Anita Tillmann

Creating Awareness. Why Fashion Needs Active Political Development /// Mystery TTIP. Do Market Economists Need to Say YES Unconditionally? /// Partnership Reloaded. Retailers and Industry are in the Same Boat /// Fashion Metropolis in Transition. Berlin, Berlin! Who’s Driving to Berlin? /// The German Wunderkind. Wolfgang Joop is Still Hungry

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Zukunft braucht Herkunft.

Visit us at…

PREMIUM Berlin 08.07. – 10.07.2015 Halle 3, Stand E06 www.meindl-fashions.de

BMH-WERBEAGENTUR.DE

08.07. - 10.07.2015 BERLIN PREMIUM Halle 7- G02 Luckenwalderstr. 4-6 10963 Berlin 25.07. - 27.07.2015 DÜSSELDORF United Fashion Rather Str. 49e, 2.OG 40476 Düsseldorf 05.08. - 07.08.2015 KOPENHAGEN CIFF Stand C1- 012, Bella Center Center Boulevard 5 DK-2300 Copenhagen S 08.08. - 11.08.2015 MÜNCHEN Agentur Martin Steckel C/O Rolf Griesinger Internationale Mode GmbH Am Kosttor 1 80538 München

SPRING SUMMER 2016

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006 editorial

Looking Ahead

Cover Photo: Peter Rigaud

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Welcome to these lines.

When you think about it, fashion and politics have, in fact, quite a lot in common. Both metiers are subject to swift change and often lack a certain depth and stability. And yet they seem to want so little of each other.

Angela Merkel, the nation's mother, rules most successfully when fashion - or let’s call it the changing colour of her same old blazer - is not an issue. While the fashion people have got used to Berlin’s former major “Wowi” and his mandatory short visits to Berlin’s trade shows, they still prefer to do business without political involvement. This edition’s focus on Fashion & Politics (from page 082) highlights that there are many good reasons why fashion and politics need each other. Close ties between the two are already a reality in many other countries. Thesy Kness-Bastaroli reports from Italy (The Fashion of the Nation, from page 096) where the volume of subsidies for the fashion industry has increased to 260 million Euros in 2015. This even reverses what Uwe Mazura, the managing director of the German Textile + Fashion Confederation, still describes as an immovable reality in his interview with Quynh Tran (“We Need to Place Responsibility Where it Belongs”, from page 104): “The clothing industry has been a global industry for decades. This is not a trend that we can - or even want to - stop.”

Meanwhile, Bella Italia welcomes a significant re-shoring trend.

Even Prada is returning to home pastures, mainly because it has suddenly become cheaper to produce in Italy again. In France, as Silke Bender knows, the Foreign Minister Laurent Fabius makes his official residence available for design exhibitions (The Fashion of the Nation, from page 096).

However, there is hope that the German fashion industry will soon have the lobby it desperately needs. This is proven by our Longview (from page 074) with Christiane Arp and Anita Tillmann. The editor-in-chief of Vogue explains: “Our approach is to look forward, not back. The time for moaning is over. We have set out to change things and to make the idea of a German Fashion Council as a focal point for young designers become a

reality. That was our basic mood - to stop dwelling on the past and shape the future.” The trade show boss adds: “I can’t always look for reasons in the past; I can’t waste my time on that. I would rather be a part of what shapes the future of the creative industries.”

Shaping the Future One can also shape cities. Will city centres still be exciting tomorrow? Or will we yield the more expensive locations to mono-label stores and start shopping in a green-field outlet? Ina Köhler explores these questions in her article (Dare to Create, from page 110). One can also shape things on a smaller scale - in one’s own store. Nicoletta Schaper’s article (We Are Ruining Our Market, from page 124) focuses on the exciting question of how to maintain the desirability of product ranges. That’s not the end of the shaping options either. It would be a start if we showed some fair play, honesty, and stopped bamboozling each other. This is the opinion of Martina Müllner’s conversation partners (In the Same Boat, from page 120). They have understood that things are a lot easier when we all row in the same direction.

In this spirit: grab those oars and enjoy the read.

Your style in progress team

Arctic Anorak

Military Eskimo

Paolo Ventura for WoolrichArt

shop online woolrich.eu

008 CONTENT

006 EDITORIAL Looking Ahead

016 right now 074

056 want it

The Longview 074 “Fashion Needs to be on the Political Agenda” style in progress talks with the German Fashion Council initiators Christiane Arp and Anita Tillmann

WHAT’S THE STORY Fashion + Politics 082 Partner, not Scapegoat Stephan Huber on the tasks of Sisyphus and Hercules 084 Fashion is Politics. Is Fashion Politics?

What needs to be on the agenda – our industry’s wish list 096 The Fashion of the Nation German (non-)perception, Italian national pride, French priorities, and US liberality – how fashion is subsidised 096

104 “We Need to Place Responsibility Where it Belongs” Uwe Mazura, the managing director of the Textile+Fashion Confederation, defends TTIP 104 “TTIP is Based on a Fundamentally Questionable Idea” Sven Giegold, a member of the EU parliament and co-founder of ATTAC, on the lack of transparency 110 Dare to Create Farsightedness in regional planning is urgently needed

116 Berlin, Berlin. Who’s driving to Berlin?

New season, new hand: Berlin as trade show location 120 In the Same Boat Elbowing tactics or cooperation? What brings the industry forward?

124 We Are Ruining Our Market!

There is a significant lack of real desirability – ways out of the devaluation spiral

110

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130 Reinventing the Wunderkind Wolfgang Joop on German fashion, art, prestige, and getting dressed

010 CONTENT

134 No Compromises mey story – the T-shirt from the Swabian Alb 136 Record-Breaking A perfect model in his own right: Cristiano Ronaldo’s CR7 label 137 The Journey to a Global Brand A tradition-steeped company with a youthful spirit: Colmar Originals 138 On Course for Success North Sails has new captains 139 Switzerland’s Best White Shirt Artigiano focuses on craftsmanship and swift repeat orders 124

140 “Sustainability is not a Religion” An interview with Superjeans of Sweden founder Bo Bech-Nielsen

fashion 142 Belle de Jour 150 Bold Travellers

IN STORE 158 Simple Luxury The Store x Soho House/Berlin 160 Mission Statement Store/Munich 162 Beach Pearl Pier 14/Zinnowitz

142

164 In Dialogue with Fashion Seefelder/Munich 166 Marvel at the World Outside PoeSie 1895/Bad Ischl 168 Mainstream? Never!

L’Eclaireur/Saint-Ouen 170 Closely Related Almliebe/Munich 171 Bike Me Up Rose Biketown/Munich 172 The Magic of Uniqueness Un autre Voodoo/Berlin 174 Positive Course Correction Dings/Zurich

176 EDITOR’S LETTER Zalando and the Analogue World 150

315 style in progress

176 about us

U

08 - 10 JULi » HALLE 3 | E03 i www.luckydeluca.com

de

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6 SHOPS INNSBRUCK ALTSTADT

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Alberto Women’s Power

Minimum Two New Concepts Minimum, a brand hailing from Denmark, has expanded its women’s collection by adding the Moves by Minimum line to its range. With six to eight collections per year, the Danish company is in line with its customers’ need to react to current trends in the short term. Depending on the season, the collections consist of 60 to 70 items with retail prices ranging from 25 to 80 Euros. The calculation factor stands at 2.7.

Among the first customers of this sub-line, which was first delivered in April, were Kauf Dich Glücklich, Cube, and God Bless You. The time span between order and delivery is six to eight weeks. Another highlight is provided by the Extended men’s fashion line, which was debuted at the Pitti Uomo trade show in Florence. This extension of the men’s line is aimed at consumers who favour a straight, cleaner look and who are willing to pay a little more for high-quality fabrics.

The masculine silhouettes are based on classic cuts that are implemented in a contemporary, fashionable manner. The Extended line consists of approximately 120 items, which have been very well received by buyers. From the autumn/winter 2015 season, the line will be stocked by the likes of Livid, Taiga, and P&C in Austria, as well as by Wormland, Ansons, Ludwig Beck, P&C, Crämer & Co, Breuninger, and Peoples Place in Germany. In summer, the retail prices range from 35 to 350 Euros. The calculation factor stands between 2.5 and 3.0. Deluxe Distribution, a Berlin-based full-service agency, is the brand’s representative in both Germany and Austria. www.minimum.dk

The perfect product mix is the main focus of Alberto Woman, also in relation to the perfect team.

At the end of April, Simone Boumans took over the distribution of the new Alberto Woman trousers line for North Rhine-Westphalia and Northern Germany. The trousers specialist from Mönchengladbach clearly values experience. After all, Simone Boumans is the third generation at the helm of the agency founded by her grandfather, Herbert Boumans. However, the agency, which represents collections such as L’Argentina and Daughter of Italy, is also highly innovative and has a very progressive team. Alberto Woman was launched in 2014; the first two collections were only sold online. Simone Boumans is involved right from the start. After all, the retail debut of the collection is only scheduled for the autumn/winter season of 2015/16.

Boumans believes there is huge distribution potential: “The collection boasts an excellent price-performance ratio, which means it brings a good price structure to a high-quality brand environment.

For me, Alberto Woman is the perfect fashionable addition to the main departments, which can upgrade the sales floor in a modern and innovative way.” www.alberto-pants.com

Lardini Essence of Style and Passion

Minimum’s Extended line is aimed at style-conscious men.

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Moves by Minimum is the logical extension of the brand’s women’s collection.

In 1978, Andrea, Luigi, and Lorena Lardini founded their company with the aim of manufacturing men’s suits of the finest quality. In the meantime, they have been joined by their sister Annarita, who visibly enjoys working with her siblings in their Italian hometown Filottrano near Ancona.

The 20,000 square metre production facility houses more than 300 employees, who handcraft the collections (also for women) from the first cut to the final stitch. Another 600 employees work for Lardini at neighbouring suppliers to ensure that all items are 100% “Made in Italy”. The machinery is up to date and Lardini is one of the first companies in the region to produce its own solar power. The company produces no less than 1,500 items per day. Lardini supplies more than 500 of the world’s most renowned multi-brand stores, as well as mono-label stores and corners in Russia, Korea, and US, and China. The company’s export ratio stands at 60%. The latest Lardini highlight is a full canvas suit; the fabric reflects the unique expertise of the Italian couture trade. The production process, which takes more than 100 hours and consists of no less than 240 steps, results in an elegant suit which embodies Lardini’s many years of experience in terms of fit, feel, and perfect craftsmanship. www.lardini.it

Pure quality - modern cuts, excellent fits, and high-end processing define Lardini’s suits.

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Chief designer Ulli Ehrlich set in scene the new Sportalm showroom in Munich.

Sportalm Kitzbühel Feeling Every season, Ulli Ehrlich, the head of design at Sportalm, manages to capture the look and feel of this renowned Austrian ski and tourist resort and translate it into a high-end collection with seasonal emphases on skiing and golf. The daughter of Wilhelm Ehrlich, the founder of the company, has also proved that this spirit can be applied to an authentic shop fitting concept. In March, she implemented a 20 square metre shop-in-shop concept at the newly opened Jelmoli Sportwelt in Zurich. In April, she followed it up with a new 180 square metre showroom in the Fashion Mall Munich. In line with the Sportalm corporate identity, features such as a silver-coloured wood shingle wall and old wooden furniture are combined with stainless steel elements. In Zurich, Ulli Ehrlich focused on technical finesse, mostly behind the scenes. Service employees have direct access to the Sportalm merchandise system and customers can find inspiration by browsing the Sportalm website on installed iPad docking stations. www.sportalm.at

Ludwick Beck/Käfer Sensual Pleasures When two famous houses steeped in tradition embrace, sparks are bound to fly: Delicatessen Käfer has decided to move in with Ludwig Beck. The so-called department store of the senses now has its own gourmet department and the delicatessen specialist now has a very prominent new branch. The new “Genuss-Raum” on the second floor opened in April; it’s a combination of bistro, café, and delicatessen shop. It offers a total of 20 seats on comfortable vintage wooden chairs and an upholstered corner bench, where guests can enjoy breakfast, changing lunch dishes, sandwiches, and soups. In addition, visitors can indulge in a outrageously gorgeous selection of confectionery and pastries, including the fine tarts and truffle cakes in the display window. This is Ludwig Beck’s response to a trend that is gaining more and more traction: the combination of fashion and the culinary arts. For Christian Greiner, the chairman of Ludwig Beck, the new partnership is a stroke of good fortune: “In Käfer we have found the best possible partner for the gastronomy section in our house. ‘Genuss-Raum’ is the ideal culinary addition to our high-end product range.” www.ludwigbeck.de

Innovation for environmental protection - recycled PET bottles are turned into nylon fabrics.

Blauer Flyweights In the coming spring/summer collection for 2016, Blauer, a brand based in the Italian town of Montegalda, concentrates on innovative production processes, new colours, new fabrics, and new styles. As usual, the focus remains on outerwear for women and men, which is as innovative and light as ever this summer.

The of highlight of the collection is a jacket that is made utilising the newly developed Eco Circle Fiber, which utilises recycled PET bottles. The bottles are shredded and the flakes are transformed into a highend nylon fabric. Compared with the conventional production of nylon fabrics, this process results in 20 percent less waste water, uses 50 percent less energy, and causes 60% less air pollution. www.blauer.it “We are a real Munich dream couple”, says Käfer Group’s Michael Käfer about his company’s new liaison with Ludwig Beck.

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Lucky de Luca Brooklyn Vibes

The first Better Rich store run by the brand itself opened in Oberkassel.

Better Rich First Own Store Following the successful establishment of the Better Rich brand in premium specialised retailers in Germany, Austria, Switzerland, the Benelux countries, and Spain, the team has set its sights on the future strategy. Due to the steady growth the brand has experienced since its launch, it enjoys enormous market potential.

Since the 28th of March, Better Rich has its first own store in a prime location of Düsseldorf Oberkassel. The store is run by the brand itself and could serve as a template for further branches. The Better Rich team believes that the time is right to make the established sales channels more visible and tangible for customers by increasing the presence of their label in selected stores. www.better-rich.com

For the upcoming spring/summer season of 2016, Valentino de Luca presents a new brand: Brooklyn Dumbo. Casually washed T-shirts, sweatshirts, hoodies, polo shirts, and sweatpants in soft tones such as olive and stone-colours transmit the flair of the New York’s bohemian Dumbo district, which derives its name from its location between Manhattan and Brooklyn (Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass).

Thus, Valentino de Luca continues his strategy of recent years. He offers a separate brand for each product group.

Instead of presenting a total look under the name Lucky de Luca, his fragmentation strategy has led to him being perceived as a specialist for every product niche. Consequently, there will be no more polo shirts in the Lucky de Luca blouse and shirt collections. The polo shirts will now only be available in the summer as part of the Brooklyn Dumbo collection.

Valentino de Luca already gained positive feedback from the retail industry for his decision to break away from the “two seasons regime”. B36, his jacket collection, is only available in winter. “I compare myself to an Italian restaurant.

The menu communicates what is available. When one item runs out, it’s gone. I don’t have stock or NOS programmes.

I simply don’t believe in infinite availability. My main focus in terms of the product is on quality, my own reliability, and the desirability triggered by the aforementioned natural limitation.” The Barb’one trouser collection will offer more jeans for women and men, among others in shades such as olive, stone-grey, orange, aqua, and, above all, white. Next winter, the B36 jacket collection will include masculine models made of rough canvas and lambskin. The men’s collection of Lucky de Luca presents itself with slightly more discreet patterns and designs in spring/summer. Valentino de Luca designs and produces all the items of this collection on his

"I simply don’t believe in infinite availability." Valentino de Luca

G-Lab Re-Launch of the Women’s Collection

Owner of G-Lab brand, Björn Gericke stays focused on the international markets. ©Robin Hartschen / THE DORF

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For the spring/summer season of 2015, G-Lab presented a comprehensive re-launch of its women’s collection. The athletic elements were reduced, while subtle elegance, urban casualness, and style elements such as asymmetrical cuts created a new, confident total look.

With this re-launch, G-Lab remained true to its super-ordinate aim to create a jacket that meets the everyday urban requirements, as well as its conceptual approach to produce jackets that can be universally worn all year round. The pre-orders for the autumn/winter season of 2015/16, which enjoyed a high double-digit increase in volume, prove that this concept is popular among a retail industry stricken by unusual weather situations. Accordingly, G-Lab is growing healthily in all markets, but is now eager to focus on the Asian markets. This season, the brand secured a new, potent distributor for the South Korean market.

In addition, talks with potential partners in Japan and other Asian markets have started.www.g-lab.com

own steam. For the women’s collection, he remains focused on feminine blouse-dresses. The brand also continues its success story in Switzerland, where it is now also stocked by Grieder in Zurich, Phänomen in Luzern, and Skiservice in St. Moritz. In Germany, the brand is equally successful at stores like Tuxedo in Düsseldorf. www.luckydeluca.com

The new star in the Lucky de Luca universe: Brooklyn Dumbo.

THE ICONIC BOMBER SCHOTT NYC MA1

www.schott.eu | SEEK Contemporary Fashion Trade Show, 8.-10.07.15, Booth C73 New Showroom: Fichtenstr. 70, 40233 Düsseldorf

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WP Lavori in Corso Ars Vivendi

Picture perfect - WP Relais offers holiday residences in the most beautiful landscapes of Italy.

Thirty years after the opening the first WP Store in Italy, Cristina Calori has decided to turn her attention to a new business field the letting of selected holiday residences in unique locations. The project, named WP Relais, is aimed at promoting Italy’s history and tradition, as well as the art and culture of the country, while treating the environment with the respect it deserves. To date, travellers can choose between two country residences with swimming pools in the Tuscan region of Val D’Orcia, which are embedded in a 46 acre plot with olive groves, vineyards, vegetable gardens, and ancient oak forests, as well as grazing pastures for horses and donkeys. In addition, WP Relais offers six flats in the historic centre of Florence, of which one is located on Piazza della Signora. A lovingly restored 18th century mansion in a village close to Salento - not far from the Thyrrenian Sea - completes the property portfolio. Next year, WP Relais plans to add a Sicilian villa, an Apulian cottage, and a natural stone cottage in Pantelleria. The company also intends to offer holiday residences and apartments for rent in other European countries in the future. www.wprelais.com

Stetson Europe Excellent Birthday Bash At the end of February, Stetson celebrated its 150th anniversary with an exclusive charity event titled “Gamblers’ Ball for the Good” at London’s Hippodrome Casino. The event was attended by numerous customers from around the world, members of the Stetson family from the US, and the swing-punk big band “Cherry Poppin’ Daddies”. It was an evening filled with good music and interesting conversations, but, above all, there was a lot of gambling for charity! The 250 invited guests donated their winnings. Klaus Kirchner and Rüdiger Bigus, the managing partners of FWS Hats, the European Stetson distributor, generously doubled the donations of the players, meaning that a total of 8,000 Euros was handed to Human Help Network, a charity dedicated to children’s aid. Stetson’s new summer collection is dedicated to sport and is on display at the trade shows Pitti Uomo in Florence, Selvedge Run in Berlin, Jacket Required in London, and Premier Classe in Paris. www.stetson-europe.com

Stetson dedicated its 150th anniversary event to the children’s aid organisation Human Help Network.

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The perfect way to show your employees how much fun their job can be. Hamburg won Marc O’Polo’s Trainee Battle 2015.

Marc O’Polo Retail Needs New Ideas In June, Marc O’Polo introduced a new career concept for its in-house retail division. It is a concept that tackles an increasingly important question within the industry: How can one make a retail career more attractive for graduates and professionals? Alongside the unpopular working hours, the industry is also facing challenges such as the increasing service standards demanded by customers, the combination of online and offline retailing, and new technologies in general - to name but a few. The new concept consists of two career paths with two different focal points, namely a Management Career and a Professional Career. Both career paths offer, for example, store employees additional specialisation opportunities in the areas of sales, visual merchandising, and store management. In doing so, the company hopes to highlight the various facets of a career in retail to new applicants. To this end, Marc O’Polo offers differentiated training courses, on both national and international levels. Furthermore, the company hopes to highlight the benefits of a career in retail to graduates and young talent by offering high-potential and support programmes. On the 6th of May, Marc O’Polo staged another retail promotion, which earned employees in training a lot of trust and recognition - and was also highly entertaining for consumers: Trainee Battle 2015. Two highly frequented brand stores in Hamburg and Munich were run independently for one day by selected trainees. The result was based on revenue. Even though Hamburg won, one could argue that everyone was a winner on the day. “The project mirrors the high degree of trust we put in our trainees and also illustrates our constant search for innovative ideas to introduce young talent to the profession step by step”, says Katrin Lumpp, the head of HR of Marc O’Polo’s retail division. www.marc-o-polo.com

BERLIN

H ej! j e H

COPENHAGEN REVOLVER 5-7 AUGUST

PREMIUM, HALL3 8-10 JULY

PR GERMANY: THINK INC. GMBH +49 (0)89-72 46 76-0 - SALES GERMANY: STANDBY GMBH +49 (0)89-72 46 76-22

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Penfield combines modern silhouettes with a functional “back-to-nature” style.

Learning by doing - young talent is promoted actively in Denim City.

House of Denim New Contact Point in Amsterdam In an old tram depot in Western Amsterdam, one can find the De Hallen media and culture centre, which houses a street food market, cinemas, a library, store, and a TV studio. In April 2015, the Innovation Campus Denim City opened on the premises. This means that the House of Denim Foundation, which was launched in 2004, now has a fixed contact point in the city. Here students of the International Jeans School are afforded the opportunity to gather practical experience regarding the entire denim production process with high-tech lasers and sprays in ozone chambers in the so-called Blue Lab. In addition to classic disciplines such as dyeing, washing, and finishing, it offers workshops on topics such as up-cycling and recycling. Furthermore, it boasts 20 sewing machines and an abundance of sponsored denim fabric. The aim of the House of Denim Foundation is to further strengthen Amsterdam’s reputation as an influential location for the denim industry, to create networks, and to promote cleaner and more environmentally friendly production processes. Many fabric and machinery manufacturers such as Candiani, Jeanologia, and Dorlet participate in the project actively. Just like the Hilfiger Group and Pepe Jeans, other brands have expressed their willingness to support the Denim City and will also actively contribute to the creation of a comprehensive denim archive. www.houseofdenim.org

Penfield New Sales and Distribution As of spring/summer 2016, Düsseldorf-based agencies Fashion Factory by Mark Grütters and Panorama Europe GmbH are responsible for the German and Austrian sales and distribution of Penfield, a brand founded in Hudson (Massachusetts) in 1975. In addition to parkas, jackets, and down vests for women and men, Penfield is best known for its high-end outerwear collaborations with renowned brands, innovative fabric developments, and high quality. Mark Grütters explains: “We are a jacket specialist. Penland stands for ‘New England aesthetics’ and is listed at the best stores around the globe. I am confident that our established system consisting of distribution, marketing, PR, service, and sales assistance will enable us to position the brand in our market in the long term.” Penfield’s collection will be showcased at the Seek trade show in Berlin, in the showroom in Düsseldorf, and at the Premium Order trade fair in Munich. www.penfield.com

Anotherproject Press Factory Establishes Sales Agency

Sales, marketing, and PR from a single source: Luiza Philipp, Niels Garbe, and Mandie Bienek (from left to right).

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The Berlin-based PR agency Press Factory, run by Mandie Bienek and Luiza Philipp, has founded an in-house sales agency named Anotherproject GmbH. Niels Garbe, the sales director and co-founder, managed the Berlin showroom of G-Star for six years and managed all G-Star store expansions for the brand’s franchise partners in Germany. The agency offers brands and partners from Germany and abroad sales, distribution, and retail support, as well as PR and marketing services, for the German, Austrian, and Swiss markets. Anotherproject has already taken over the distribution of the Swedish brand Human Scales, as well as the Berlin-based designer Isabell de Hillerin. Partial deliveries are set to start in autumn/ winter 2015/16. “We have many contacts in the retail industry, as well as head-hunters and agents, and can also draw from a lot of retail experience.

Moreover, we can offer our proven brand understanding, concept strength, and, most of all, efficient media planning. The latter is made possible by our 15 years of expertise amassed as a leading press agency specialising in fashion and lifestyle”, Luiza Philipp explains. www.press-factory.de

d-tails +49.89.2020.7771

lowbrand.com

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Marlino Casual Elegance

Saint Noir’s Zoo Portraits project will be followed up by bomber jackets.

Saint Noir More Than a Smile The makers of Berlin-based label Saint Noir started their career rather daringly. They started printing the “Air Mez” lettering on shirts, thereby putting a smile on the face of every fashion critic. What was initially seen as a gag has since developed into a T-shirt collection that refuses to set itself any limits regarding development. The labels most recent successful project was Zoo Portraits, which depicted animal motifs that were created in co-operation with the Spanish artist Yago Partal. In the upcoming season, it will add bomber jackets to its portfolio. Like the T-shirts, the bomber jackets will be in the mid to upper price range and target a broad audience ranging from large department stores to individual fashion boutiques. Nothing has been revealed about the motifs on the jackets yet. The label distributes its items via Munich-based company Stand By GmbH (www.standby-fashion.com). www.saintnoir.com

Teva Back to the Roots

The name Teva is a Hebrew word and means nature.

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The American brand Teva has been known for its outdoor sandals ever since the early 1980s.

The label was born when Mark Thatcher, a rafting guide, cut up his sneakers to turn them into water shoes he could use for river rafting. Based on this, he went on to develop resizable sandals with water-repellent nylon straps. These sandals don’t only dry quickly, but they also provide a secure grip and comfort during long hikes. Last summer, Charlotte Ronson sent all her models at her shows at the Fashion Weeks in London, New York, and Berlin onto the catwalk in Teva’s colourful basic sandals. Only recently, the plateau sandal designed by Opening Ceremony didn’t only wow countless fashion bloggers, but also the editors of Vogue, which means that Teva’s comfortable and light sandals - which can be worn with or without socks - have definitely received the seal of approval for the upcoming summer season. Nasty Gal, an online shop, currently offers its very own, extra-high flat-form model. In Japan, brands such as Uniform Experiment, Goodenough, White Mountaineering, and, most recently, Beauty & Youth by United Arrows launched their own models of Teva’s outdoor footwear, which can be purchased at the likes of Mr. Porter and Firmament. Since 1993, the distribution of Teva in Germany and Austria has been handled

by Tatonka GmbH. This season, Teva presents a lifestyle line at the Seek trade show in Berlin for the first time. www.teva.tatonka.com

Marlino has decided to debut its women’s jackets, made of exquisite Napa and suede lambskin, for the spring/summer 2016 season at the Premium trade show in Berlin. The casual pieces with an ultra-soft feel are washed, printed, and some are even elaborately decorated with handcrafted Macramé inserts. The processing and production is carried out exclusively in Europe. The purchase prices range from 599 to 699 Euros. All collection items bear the typical Marlino handwriting, which is clearly recognisable by open edges, decorative stitching, striking dyes, and special washes. The brand has also added delicate cardigans and pullovers, made of a silk-cashmere blend in various lengths and silhouettes, to its collection. In this case, the purchase prices range from 149 to 249 Euros. “These ultimate summer essentials with their subtle backside prints are the perfect addition to the leather items”, says Melanie Nienaber, the head of design at Marlino. Cuddly sweat-parkas and hoodies, as well as fine jersey shirts with enchanting prints (some utilising a new imaging technique with infinity effect), ensure a maximum of laid-back attitude.

Neutrals and soft pastel colours are the main nuances of the season, while a fresh mint shade adds a bit of summer colour. Prints actually play an important part in the whole collection. They can come in the shape of mandalas or flower tendrils, as well as striking all-over motifs. “I am fascinated by the magical impression of ornamentation. In old churches, palaces, doorways, historic buildings, and even on carpets and wallpaper - I can spot exciting motifs everywhere. Once they are separated from their initial context, they can develop a very surprising new effect”, says Melanie Nienaber, while trying to explain from where she draws inspiration for the selection of print templates. Marlino now handles distribution in Germany itself, while the Swiss market is still covered by the fashion agency owned

by Zurich-based Stefanie Beckers. In Austria, Marlino is represented by CCT Collectionen Christian Teufl.

All scheduled trade show appearances and showroom hours can be viewed on the brand’s website by clicking on the “Fair” button in the menu. From this summer season onwards, Marlino has a permanent showroom in Düsseldorf, located on the first floor of the "Sternhaus" (Kaiserswerther Strasse 115). www.marlino.de

Marlino combines sophisticated casual wear with exquisite materials.

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Schott NYC Star-Studded Hardly any other jacket currently generates more retail sales than the bomber jacket. Schott NYC has been producing the classic ever since 1952. Düsseldorf-based agencies Fashion Factory and Panorama Europe represent the brand in Germany and Austria. “Ever since their successful launch, bomber jackets have established themselves as the perfect transition and/ or all-year jacket. We are currently serving 120 customers, including MyClassico, Riders Room, Gasoline Alley, KaDeWe, and the department store in Quartier 206. We receive many repeat orders every day”, Mark Grütters explains. The classic bomber jacket with a slim fit is available in up to 18 colours for both men and women. Following the collaboration with the German punk band Die Toten Hosen, Schott will equip a number of German stars with bomber jackets, including Heidi Klum, Jürgen Vogel, Benno Führmann, Jan Josef Liefers, Christian Ulmen, Wotan Wilke Möhring, Christoph Kramer, Julian Draxler, Lukas Podolski, Mario Götze, Marco Reus, and Bastian Schweinsteiger. The co-operation with celebrities is aimed at keeping the bomber jacket’s sales figures high. www.schottnyc.com

New colours - Schott NYC’s MA-1 bomber jacket is available in fresh colours this summer.

New York label Proenza Schouler is a new addition to the portfolio of Düsseldorf-based agency MAB.

Proenza Schouler New Partner for Germany They stand for the essence of New York’s urban spirit. What started as an accessories and bag collection in 2002, has since become one of the most talked about US designer runway collections. Starting next season, Düsseldorf-based fashion agency MAB will represent the collection in Germany. Regis Benabou, the agency’s owner, decided to add the brand to his portfolio due to its fashion focus, as well as the collection's clear, sportive, and purist style. “Proenza Schouler is right on par with brands such as Yves Saint Laurent, Givenchy, and Balenciaga.

With average purchase prices of 390 Euros for ready-to-wear items, 515 Euros for bags, and a mark up of 2.6, the price structure is a little lower. This is how we strive to bridge the gap between contemporary fashion and first line designer brands.” Regis Benabou hopes to tap into the brand’s high-end positioning in the US, where Proenza Schouler runs its own stores and is listed at upscale retailers such as Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman, and Harvey Nichols. www.mab-fashion.com, www.proenzaschouler.com

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Stulz Mode: Genuss: Leben With Compliments Thomas and Anette Wartner have always made it their mission to be passionate retailers. Their two Anette and Thomas Wartner celebrate the 85th anniversastores in Waldshut-Tiengen, both ry of Modehaus Stulz, which they have transformed into named Stulz Mode : Genuss : Lebtheir individual connoisseur concept. en, combine fashion with delicatessen and books. This concept has proven successful and the stores are loved by customers just as much as by the owners. This year, Anette and Thomas Wartner celebrate the 85th anniversary of their business, which was founded in 1930 by Theodor Stulz as a fabrics and linen shop and in time developed into the successful fashion retailer. In 2008, Anette and Thomas Wartner took over the business from Anette Wartner’s parents and started transforming it into their individual connoisseur concept step by step. They now own a menswear and a women’s fashion store in the same road; the shops stock fashion by brands such as Max Mara Weekend, Thomas Rath Trousers, Handstich, Lardini, and Boglioli. “The long tradition of this business strengthens our spine and gives us the energy to continuously develop this exciting concept under the ‘Stulz Mode : Genuss : Leben’ brand!”, Thomas Wartner says. The icing on the cake is the “Stulz Geniessermagazin”, which publishes recommendations of the owners regarding fashion, food, and hotels.

AG A D R I A N O G O L D S C H M I E D

AG J E A N S.CO M

PREMIUM | Hall 3 | Standno. H3-A 01 |

Distributed by Komet und Helden

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People Lab. 100% Italy Heldmann Comeback of the Man

The comeback of the Heldmann name - it lends its reputation to a small, fine men’s line.

Harald Heldmann has made a virtue out of a necessity and, almost casually, said something very essential to illustrate his approach: “We have pulled a very small collection out of the hat, but one that is fun.” Originally they were looking for a men’s knitwear collection for their own online shop, myclassico. com. However, they were soon inspired by the idea of manufacturing their own small collection under the Heldmann brand. “Our main priorities were a bold fashion statement, a wearability that adapts to the specific needs of men, and an acceptable price level.” Accordingly, a merino pullover costs between 99 and 129 Euros, while a cashmere pullover sets you back between 150 and 200 Euros. The 13-piece collection acts as evidence of Harald Heldmann’s know-how in terms of knitwear and his high quality standards. The absolute highlights are pullovers and cardigans in wool grades such as finest cashmere and Super 140 merino wool in 16gg fine knit. Special “garment dyed” techniques for the pullover range create vintage looks, while fixed Full Milano qualities and “oil dye” techniques lend a casual, relaxed overall look to the collection. As a service to customers, the brand is planning a stock programme.

However, it will quite deliberately not be a NOS programme, as “that eliminates the excitement”, says Harald Heldmann, while simultaneously highlighting the purpose-built B2B store on the new website. www.heldmann.com

People Lab., an aspiring young label, is the brainchild of a number of creative, innovative, and inspired artists and designers. It is part of Italy-based Pier Spa Group, a company that already produces for household brands such as Dries van Noten, Costume National, Hilfiger, Balenciaga, Balmain, Chloé, Dior Homme, Karl Lagerfeld, and Kris van Assche. The brothers Marzia and Alessandro Narduzzi, sons of the company’s founder, are proud ambassadors of the “100% Made in Italy” philosophy. The People Lab. collection for spring/summer 2016 is therefore also set to be certified accordingly. The theme of People Lab.’s collections for both women and men is focused on the maritime environment of Southern France in the 1920s. While maintaining the strong denim influences, the women’s range concentrates on wide Palazzo trousers, printed and washed blouses, dresses, and foulards, as well as jackets decorated with maritime details. www.peoplejeans.it

Newly interpreted - People Lab. adds elaborate details to design classics.

Praio & Co A Lifestyle Brand Expands

Riccardo Manente launched a new office for Praio & Co near Modena.

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Riccardo Manente, the owner of Praio, speaks of “vertical expansion” when he is talking about the launch of his new “satellite” called Praio&Co. Five years ago, the marketing expert launched his Praio clothing line with all the experience he gained from his time as brand manager at Dsquared2 and marketing plan manager at Dolce & Gabbana. At Praio, Manente comes up with the designs, develops the collection, monitors the production process, and works on his global network to increase awareness for his casual street wear.

With Praio&Co, the fashion expert from Verona has now established an office in Capri, near Modena. It primarily acts as a style & product office for the Praio collections, but will also serve external brands in the future. www.praio.it

spring / summer 2016

#minimum_fashion visit us at pitti (milan) premium (berlin) modefabriek (amsterdam) revolver (copenhagen)

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Blaumax More Organic Cotton In the coming season, Blaumax enriches its extensive range of different jersey qualities with a new Organic Cotton line. The classic slim fit shirts and casual oversize cuts are aimed at a fashion-conscious target group with a sustainable lifestyle. For the launch, the brand presents a jersey line for women. A men’s collection is feasible in the longer term. The purchase prices range from 12.90 to 21.50 Euros, with an envisaged calculation factor of 2.8. All models can be reordered via the brand’s own B2B platform and are delivered within 72 hours. In the spring/summer 2016 collection, the brand offers six T-shirt models, but the total proportion of Organic Cotton within the collection will be expanded greatly in the future. www.blaumax.com

Atelier Gardeur Expansion in China

Atelier Gardeur’s fits also appeal to the Chinese market.

This year, Atelier Gardeur, the Mönchengladbach-based trouser specialist, plans to open five new shop-in-shop concepts in China.

The company announced these plans in late April. The co-operation with local franchisees refers to major cities off the beaten path, such as Shenyang, Dalian, Zhengzhou, and Nanjing. The expansion plans are aimed at Chinese consumers, who increasingly value the fit and quality of the brand. This is confirmed by the demand among retailers and the sales figures from China.

In addition, Atelier Gardeur’s own shop reflects the overall concept and the experience of the brand www.atelier-gardeur.de

IQ+Berlin Preview with Fake Suede This year, IQ+ Berlin has decided to prepare its customers for the spring/summer 2016 season with a small, exquisite capsule collection. This preview includes, for the first time, selected models made of high-end fake suede. The new look, which is both casual and luxurious, is embodied perfectly by a fringed jacket and vest in a Bohemian Texas style, as well as a cape with a distinct 1970s flair.

The collection is rounded off by a casual Western style shirt. The colour palette ranges from brownstone to camel and from hippie orange to black olive and asphalt.

Sales will start in June 2015 and continue until the Premium trade show in Berlin. Accordingly, the items will be delivered between the 1st and the 15th of November 2015. www.iqplusberlin.com

Blaumax launches a new Organic Cotton programme.

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Casual, relaxed, and luxurious IQ+ Berlin’s new fake suede styles.

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Die Hinterhofagentur Against the Mainstream Die Hinterhofagentur remains true to its strategy of launching and expanding new and convincingly product-focused brands labels in Germany. “The product ranges of retailers need new input through individual products”, Dominik Meuer, the owner of the agency, explains. One new feature is the re-launch of men’s shirts by 0039 Italy, which has returned to manufacturing models for men after a few years of absence. Dominik Meuer summarises: The Wool & Co collection has established itself well over the last few seasons and is constantly growing. For the upcoming season, there will be a new, earlier delivery date before Christmas. Cashmere or cashmere blends will be available for the first time. The attractive price-performance ratio remains intact.

The retail prices for knitwear range from 69 to 99 Euros, while jerseys cost between 39 and 49 Euros. The women’s line of des petits hauts has also generated very good sales for retailers.

For the next order round, it will - alongside the successful top range with jerseys, knitwear, blouses, and dresses - focus more on trousers. The casual collection of BOB, with its colourful polo shirts, knitwear, jackets, and sports jackets for men, is also becoming increasingly popular among retailers. All details are handcrafted and make every item unique. The retail prices range from 89 to 99 Euros for polo shirts, while jackets and sports jackets cost between 199 and 249 Euros. The Italian clothing brand Breco’s has also made its way into various renowned German retailers. The extensive seasonal and NOS stock programme is a major plus. It offers a casual, sartorial look. The retail prices for sports jackets range from 199 to 299 Euros, while suits cost between 299 and 399 Euros. The Catalan shirt manufacturer Koike Escayola continues to focus on quality made in Portugal. Finest cotton and linen qualities are combined with tasteful, subtle details. The retail prices range from 119 to 149 Euros.

Labels: Wool & Co, des petits hauts, BOB, Breco’s, Cape Horn, Koike Escayola, 0039 Italy, Sophie, Out of Order, Ten Denim Die Hinterhofagentur, Munich/Germany, d.meuer@diehinterhofagentur.de, www.diehinterhofagentur.de

Save the Duck, a new addition to Komet und Helden’s portfolio, leaves the feathers on the duck.

Komet und Helden High Flyer Munich-based agency Komet und Helden has added two well-known brands to its portfolio: Save the Duck and 7 for all Mankind. The Save the Duck collection, which Komet und Helden has under contract for all of Germany, stands for fake down at the highest level. It is a collection that adapts to the needs of the retail industry with a swift delivery programme. In May, retailers were awarded the opportunity to order an immediate collection for delivery in November and December. The agency represents 7 for all Mankind in the Düsseldorf-area, which is where Komet und Helden also runs a showroom in the Kaistrasse. “Komet und Helden has always stood for sportswear, denim, and outerwear of the highest quality”, says Henrik Soller, the managing director of Komet und Helden. “We are happy to welcome Save the Duck and 7 for all Mankind, two brands that are perfect matches for our portfolio, to our stable.

Once again, this is proof for our competence in outerwear and denim. We are starting into the new season well-prepared.”

Labels: 7 for all Mankind, AG, The Artistylist, Baracuta, B.D. Baggies, Blauer USA, Bowery NYC, Bucketfeet, Champion Reverse Weave, Diemme, Distorted People, Gilded Age, Gino-B, Hartford, Kindlein, Ottod'Ame, Paltò, Pence, Save the Duck, Todd Snyder + Champion, The NIM, Woolrich John Rich & Bros.

Komet und Helden, Munich/Germany, muenchen@kometundhelden.de. www.kometundhelden.de

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A brand with a lot of potential: des petit hauts.

Säck & Nolde Athletic Newcomer

Ransom, the Canadian footwear brand, is a new addition to the brand portfolio of Säck & Nolde.

The friendly team at Bochum-based Säck & Nolde Distribution has added the exciting shoe brand Ransom to its portfolio. The agency, which specialises in the import of American products, will represent Ransom in Germany, Austria, the Benelux states, France, Scandinavia, and Eastern Europe.

The summer collection consists of seven models in up to five colours. Alongside sneakers with a running shoe look, the brand offers classic tennis shoes and moccasin/running shoe hybrids. The retail prices range from 109.90 to 189.90 Euros; the calculation factor stands at 2.3. In the autumn/ winter season, Ransom also offers ultra-light hiking boots with non-slip profiles or comfortable sneaker soles. Sales manager Florian Adam is responsible for West and North Germany, while Frank Brenden covers East and South Germany, as well as Austria. Patta Distribution’s Walid Saha is responsible for the Benelux states. The collection will be showcased at the Seek trade show in Berlin.

Labels: Alife NYC, Blunt Wrap, Grenco, Incase, Jason Markk, Odd Future, Stussy, Ransom, T.U.K., Undefeated, Uglydoll, Us Versus Them Säck & Nolde, Bochum/Germany, info@saeckundnolde.de, www.saeckundnolde.de

PREMIUM BERLIN Halle 3 F 16 08 / 09 / 10 JULY 2015 CPD DÜSSELDORF 24 / 25 / 26 / 27 JULY 2015 DÜSSELDORF SHOWROOM: RATHER STR. 49 E, 5 th FLOOR

GERMANY NORTH/EAST, MARCO AUGUSTIN, GÄRTNERSTRASSE 18, D-20253 HAMBURG, PHONE +49 40 429 354 38, MARCO AUGUSTIN@BETTER-RICH.COM, GERMANY WEST, ROLAND GOMOLLA, RATHER STRASSE 49 E, D-40476 DÜSSELDORF, PHONE +49 211 943 03 40, ROLANDGOMOLLA@BETTER-RICH.COM, GERMANY MIDDLE, BIRGITTA ZÖLLER MODEAGENTUR, HEYNE FABRIK HAUS 12 /1. STOCK, LILISTRASSE 83E, D-63067 OFFENBACH, PHONE +49 69 401 588 02, MOBIL +49 178 760 53 85, BIRGITTAZOELLER@BETTERRICH.COM, GERMANY SOUTH-WEST, AGENTUR GÖPPERT2, URS & SVENJA GÖPPERT, EURO FASHION CENTER / 3. ETAGE, MAHDENTALSTRASSE 100, D 71065 SINDELFINGEN, PHONE +49 7031 792 452, MOBIL +49 172 633 19 27, SVENJAGOEPPERT@ BETTER-RICH.COM, GERMANY SOUTH, AGENTUR ELKE WIRICHS, HEINRICH-KLEY-STRASSE 12, D-80807 MÜNCHEN, PHONE +49 89 323 081 00, FAX +49 89 323 081 01, MOBILE +49 177 323 66 27, ELKEWIRICHS@BETTER-RICH.COM, AUSTRIA, CLOTHING CONCEPT, WICKENBURGALLEE 2, A-5020 SALZBURG, PHONE +43 664 230 30 30, ERWIN@CLOTHINGCONCEPT.AT, NETHELANDS, THOMAS VAN DEN BERG, BRINKSTEGGE 33, D-46395 BOCHOLT, MOBIL +31 614 549 215, THOMASVANDENBERG@BETTER-RICH.COM, SWITZERLAND, KAMM+KAMM COMPANY, SEESTRASSE 95, CH-8800 THALWIL, PHONE +41 44 771 75 65, PATRICK.KAMM@KAMMCOMPANY.COM WWW.BETTER-RICH.COM

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CCT Collectionen Christian Teufl Stable Partnerships CCT Collectionen is starting into the new season with three new members on its sales team. In contrast, the brand portfolio of the agency remains stable. “We enjoyed a very good last year and see no reason to shed any collections”, Christian Teufl says. “We are trying to build a bridge between the customers and suppliers, and we have successfully achieved this to date and this policy contributes massively to the success of each brand.” Sustainability is very close to the heart of both Christian Teufl and his wife, Jasmin Ebner.

They see brands such as FTC Cashmere, SeeMe, and Marlino as pioneers in this regard.

The shooting stars in the portfolio are Colmar Originals and Colmar Skiwear.

“The perfect combination of fashion at a reasonable price has made it possible for us to convince all Austrian premium customers and many new clients in the ski and sports business”, Christian Teufl adds.

Furla is among the long-standing business partners of the agency. Teufl has represented the brand in Germany and Austria for no less than 13 years. “This year, the family-owned company is celebrating its 88th anniversary and has, for the first time in its history, managed to generate a turnover of 300 million Euros”, Christian Teufl points out. “The company is both solid and creative; it processes leather, which is sourced to 100% from Italy, with the utmost craftsmanship. The positioning in the world’s best department stores and selected specialised retailers has won the brand the respect it deserves.”

Labels: 0039 Italy, 120% Lino, Allessandra Chamonix, Colmar Originals, Colmar Active & Ski, FTC Cashmere, Furla, Grace, Hunter, Lua Accessoires, Marlino, Manila Grace, Nine:inthe:morning, Post&Co, SeeMe, Twin Set by Simona Barbieri CCT Collectionen Christian Teufl, Salzburg/Austria and Munich/Germany, office@teufl.cc, www.teufl.cc

Customer training expert: Patrick Ebnöther.

The Wearhouse Fashion Trade Lesson in Products The retail industry can choose from a plethora of brands and products. So how can an agency ensure that the sales personnel recommend the products it has in its portfolio to the consumer? The Wearhouse Fashion Trade’s Patrick Ebnöther has decided to focus on training sessions for his customers. Armed with information provided by the suppliers regarding styles, quality levels, merchandising possibilities, and brand positioning targets, he and his team started travelling to customers in April to provide on-location training for the sales personnel. The result: sales staff is well-informed about the respective products, develops an emotional attachment, and therefore sells the brands represented by The Wearhouse Fashion Trade more frequently. Paltò, a new addition to the portfolio, was particularly successful this season. “The innovative coats were highly popular via the right customers”, Patrick Ebnöther reveals with joy. Another highly successful newcomer is Freedom Day, which offers a witty collection of jackets from Italy for both women and men.

Labels: Barena Venezia, Caliban, Camerucci Archivio, Campomaggi, Caterina Lucchi, Circolo 1901, Freedom Day, Giuglielminotti, GMS-75, Hunkydory, Mason’s Spiewak, Michael Stars, Nabholz, Natural Selection, Paltò, Rude Riders, Siviglia White, Stone Island, Tintoria Mattei 954 The Wearhouse Fashion Trade GmbH, Erlenbach/Switzerland, wearhouse@wearhouse.ch, www.wearhouse.ch

Both solid and creative - Furla celebrates its 88th anniversary.

Room Nine Agency All Segments For the upcoming season, Torsten Müller’s fashion agency has added two brands from the accessories and footwear segment to its portfolio. The first addition is the It-boot range of Minnetonka, whose moccasins can be regularly spotted on the “worn by” portraits in lifestyle media publications. The second is the classic footwear and bag collection by Flip Flop. “We want to offer our customers more than a section, more than merely a product segment. We strive to offer a store the possibility to source its entire range from us, which is why the price structure of all our brands is structured accordingly”, explains Torsten Müller, who has, The Minnetonka collection enriches for the upcoming season, finally the brand portfolio of Room Nine found a suitable T-shirt collection in Agency in the upcoming season.

Prince Tees. Another new addition to the portfolio is the brand Strammer Max, a shape-wear line for men. At the next Premium trade show in Berlin, all the agency’s collections (except Strammer Max), will present their products in a total of seven booths. At the Premium trade fair in Munich, Torsten Müller plans to present his portfolio in a large joint agency booth.

Labels: C.P. Company, Deyk, Flip Flop, Jeff, Minnetonka, Prince Tees, Pyrenex, Strammer Max Room Nine Agency, Düsseldorf/Germany, torsten.mueller@roomnineagency.de, www.roomnineagency.de

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Heritage Agents A Good Nose

Rolf Griesinger Internationale Mode Focus on Trends As in previous seasons, the agency Rolf Griesinger focuses on its existing labels. In addition to the high-end leather collection of Vintage Racing by Meindl, the agency represents a number of fresh looks for women. Animapop, a collection of dresses from Florence, was introduced to the market last season. “It proved to be a huge hit”, Martin Steckel says. “The first delivery of dresses sold very well.”

Fashionable prints, simple cuts, warehouse service, excellent fits, and a 2.9 calculation factor support the fashion line’s success. A new addition to the portfolio is the Berlin-based brand Goodies, which was created by Carsten Scheer (flowers for friends). Goodies focuses on current trends such as fake fur jackets and vests on attractive terms. The calculation factor for retailers ranges from 2.9 to 3.0.

Labels: Animapop, Bloom, FFC, Flowers for Friends, Goodies, IQ+Berlin, Vintage Racing by Meindl Rolf Griesinger Internationale Mode GmbH, Munich/Germany, office@griesinger-mode.de, www.griesinger-mode.de

The Italian Animapop label convinces its customers with warehouse services and attractive prints.

Daily Business Lounge Qualities

Convincing - Juvia impresses with the huge range of its collection.

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Lounge-wear is feel-good fashion at its highest level. It is made of the finest materials and exquisitely processed, meaning one can wear it for a café visit without being labelled as a “bag lady”. Such a collection was exactly what Annette Bailleux’s portfolio lacked, which is why she is thrilled to have discovered Juvia.

“Juvia convinced me with its beautiful qualities and the diversity of its collection. It offers knitwear, sweaters, both fine and firmer shirts, and trousers in all lengths - all in plain colours and various designs.” Juvia items are produced in Germany and not only offer lounge-wear, but also sportswear and suitable accessories.

Annette Bailleux points out that the image of the brand, founded by Judith Berger after she spent ten years gaining experience in collection development and is now entering its fourth season, appeals to “modern girls”, but stresses that the collection is certainly not girly or exaggeratedly young. Purchase prices for long-sleeved shirts are between 28 and 43 Euros, while the price for sweaters ranges from 29.50 to 61 Euros. The purchase prices for trousers range from 37.50 to 61 Euros.

Labels: Closed, Drykorn, FFC, iHeart, Juvia, Mabrun, Moorer, Nicolussi, Velvet Compagnia Maglia GmbH/Daily Business GmbH, Erlenbach/Switzerland, info@annettebailleux.ch, www.annettebailleux.ch

Malte Kötteritz and Michael Brockmann always explain their strategic alignment with a rather beautiful metaphor. “We perceive ourselves as being like the Italian cuisine. You always have the same ingredients: pasta, fresh herbs, and high-quality oil. However, the real art is to modify these ingredients every season to create a new taste”, Malte Kötteritz explains. The main focus is on absolute specialists for their respective menswear product group. This creates an overall portfolio with a very specific look, which is then, ideally, presented adequately by the retailers. “We have a good nose for a good story”, says Michael Brockmann, who stresses the agency’s aim to select honest brands from honest (family-owned) companies with a real background story and a leading position in their business segment.

“More than ever, the retail industry needs to be careful to buy into the strengths of a brand. Our main task is to assist the retailers to achieve this”, Brockmann adds. Heritage Agents sees enormous potential in Lardini, which has expanded its range by adding a full canvas off-the-peg line mainly consisting of suits and jackets handmade in Italy. This new line is expected to attract new customers from the luxury segment. The trousers specialist Pantaloni Torino added a fifth line, namely PT Forward, which is a young, progressively oriented collection with urban and fashionable styles.

In the spirit of Heritage Agents’ aspiration to have the best items in every premium menswear product category, the agency added Mey Story to its portfolio at the beginning of April. Mey Story offers high-end jersey T-shirts and underwear made in Germany. “In Season” is a keyword that the agency owners interpret as a complete package that is aimed at meeting the increased demands of the retail sector in terms of service, re-orders, support at the PoS through staff training, and professional marketing. Malte Kötteritz and Michael Brockmann attach great importance to these aspects: “With a few selected brands we can offer real depth. Our customers should feel like they bought from the brand, because we see ourselves as part of the brand.”

Labels: Adriano Meneghetti, Lardini, Mey Story, Pantaloni Torino, RVR Lardini, Xacus Heritage Agents, Munich/Germany, info@heritage-agents.com, www.heritage-agents.com

“Our customers come directly to the brand, not to a sales representative.” Heritage Agents has reserved a space of 200 square metres for Lardini alone.

VISIT US

H3-F04

FA S H I O N E N G I N E E R I N G

www.g-lab.com / info@g-lab.com / +49 211 43 61 67 0

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Anke Burkhardt Japanese Surprise Clothing Concept Precision Landing

A new addition to Clothing Concept’s portfolio: Bianco Jeans from Tel Aviv.

Erwin Kronawettleitner can look back on a successful season and believes his agency is optimally positioned. This comes as no surprise given that Clothing Concept’s portfolio includes the collections of Lucky de Luca, Better Rich, Rosemunde (which he represents in Austria, North Italy, and Slovenia), and Save the Duck. “With the launch of Better Rich four years ago and the launch of Save the Duck one year ago we certainly managed a precision landing in the retail industry”, the agency owner explains. His client base reads like the who-is-who of the upscale premium segment, which is where he believes his brands are ideally placed. Clothing Concept has added a new brand to its portfolio for the upcoming season. Erwin Kronawettleitner was made aware of Bianco Jeans, a trendy denim collection from Tel Aviv, by Kamm & Kamm, a friendly Swiss fashion agency. “I am absolutely convinced by the casual look of these trousers”, Kronawettleitner says.

Labels: Better Rich, Bianco Jeans, Lucky de Luca, Rosemunde, Save the Duck Clothing Concept, Salzburg/ Austria, erwin@clothingconcept.at, www.clothingconcept.at

The spreading of Munich’s trade show dates over two consecutive weeks, buyers paralysed by a flu outbreak, and show room switches between Milan and Paris – Anke Burkhardt really needed all her energy to navigate through this season’s chaos. There was, however, a very happy end.

“No other collection can match the customer acquisition figures of the Suzusan brand. My conservative prognosis was exceeded significantly.” Hiroyuki Murase, a Japanese designer living in Düsseldorf, is the fifth generation to rely on the traditional dyeing technique known as Shibori. His scarf and fashion collection is hand-sewn in Japan. It uses three-dimensional fabrics to create light objects and the aforementioned Shibori technique also utilises plaids. Anke Burkhardt’s customers simply adore the Suzusan collection, which consists of dresses, T-shirts, and cashmere pullovers.

“My customers were so excited during the order period; I cannot wait for the summer collection.”

Labels: 17 Stephanie Schneider, Antonio Marras, Giles, I’m Isola Marras, Lamberto Losani Cashmere, Mantù, Suzusan, Zilla.

Anke Burkhardt Mode Agentur, Pahlen/Germany, info@ankeburkhardt.de, www.ankeburkhardt.de Bestseller - the new dress collection of Suzusan, a brand that initially rose to fame due to its scarves.

MAB Luxury and Contemporary

High fashion with a rock & roll street wear appeal - The Kooples from France is a new addition to MAB’s portfolio.

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MAB, the fashion agency owned by Regis Benabou, enters the new season with fashionable collections such as Proenza Schouler and The Kooples. The Kooples combines high fashion with rock & roll street wear for men and women, complemented by the independent line The Kooples Sport. “The Kooples is a really exciting new label for Germany. It has become a fixture in the fashion world within a very short time”, Regis Benabou says. Brands such as BLK DNM, Opening Ceremony, Rachel Zoe, and others remain in MAB’s portfolio. The same applies to the Kenzo collection, which is one the great constants at MAB and has gained new fashion relevance thanks to Humberto Leon and Carol Lim. This continues into the spring/summer season of 2016 with a bag collection that includes the Bike series and the trendy California bag. In addition, the Düsseldorf-based full service agency offers public relations, payment control, and event management services.

Labels: Ba&sh, BLK DNM, Fendi, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Mackage, National Standard, Opening Ceremony, Paul & Joe, Paul & Joe Sister, Phillip Lim, Proenza Schouler, Rachel Zoe, The Kooples, The Kooples Sport MAB - Modeagentur Benabou GmbH, Düsseldorf/Germany, info@mab-fashion.com, www.mab-fashion.com

Asoni SA GeigenmĂźhlestrasse 5 CH - 8173 Neerach Phone +41 43 433 21 00 Fax +41 43 433 21 05 asoni@asoni.ch www.asoni.ch

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Matthias Schwarte Fine Recycling

The Tiger of Sweden collections are enjoying a strong growth period.

Select Trading Focus on Traditional Brands Bernhard Waage remains committed to the segmentation of his brand portfolio into four areas: women’s outerwear, menswear, denim, and footwear. “This principle has proven its worth, mainly because we can offer depth in all categories and focus primarily on our traditional brands. The main brands of our menswear segment are Tiger of Sweden and John Varvatos, while the women’s outerwear segment is dominated

by By Malene Birger and Tiger of Sweden Women. Our main brands for the denim and footwear segments are Tiger Jeans and Hudson Shoes respectively.” For all labels, the agency is responsible for the entire brand building process in Germany and Austria. “Ever since we took over the representation of Tiger of Sweden four years ago, we have enjoyed steady and strong growth. In 2014/15, we grew by no less than 50%.”

The team remains committed to providing support to its customers and believes in the concept of close co-operation. In addition to regular customer service, the agency emphasises the importance of staff training at the PoS through its experienced sales team.

The John Varvatos collection experienced a surge in popularity after the opening of a store in London with more than 1,000 square metres of retail area.

Subsequently, Select Trading managed to expand its customer base in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland.

Special shopping events involving By Malene Birger, which were organised by Select Trading in co-operation with individual clients, proved to be very popular with consumers. The sales figures for Hudson Shoes (which Select Trading introduced one year ago), the MDK leather collection, and sneaker brand Garment Project are equally positive.

Labels: By Malene Birger, Garment Project, Hudson Shoes, John Varvatos, MDK, Tiger Jeans, Tiger of Sweden, Zoe Karrsen Select Trading GmbH, Munich/Germany, info@select-trading.com, www.select-trading.com

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The fashion agency Schwarte has quite a few new things in store for the upcoming season. Daniele Fiesoli has, for instance, launched a new eco-cashmere line, for which cashmere is high quality processed, re-spun, and then dyed. “The collection brings the old qualities of Prato back to life”, Matthias Schwarte, who represents the collection in South Germany, explains. North Germany is covered by Stefan Wittmann. “The collection, which is produced in Europe, is highly topical in terms of sustainability, has a cool modern look, and impresses with super-soft materials.” A small, compact collection is available in advance before Christmas. The retail prices range from 169 to 199 Euros. John Sheep is another Parajumpers is one of the most reliable addition to the Schwarte portfolio. It brands in Agentur Schwarte's portfolio. offers indigo-dyed Jacquard jersey jackets with a casual look for women and men. The retail prices range from 279 to 398 Euros.

Last but not least, the Munich-based agency has Siviglia in its stable. Siviglia, which is a trousers collection with styles ranging from formal to casual, was bought and subsequently re-launched by Glimar, which is the main competitor of Incotex in Italy. “The retail industry needs new impulses”, Matthias Schwarte says. “This is why we strive to provide the industry with exciting products.”

Labels: Benson N.Y., Daniele Fiesoli, Fil Noir, John Sheep, Lodenfrey 1842, Parajumpers, Siviglia, Sundek Agentur Schwarte, Munich/Germany, office@agentur-schwarte.de, www.agentur-schwarte.de

Welcome to my room with a view Mixed Double The fashion agency, with offices in Düsseldorf, Salzburg, and Zurich, strives to do big business with small items that can be delivered 365 days per year. In order to achieve this ambitious goal, Christian Obojes, the managing director of the agency, has hired two new specialists for his team. Liane Taucher-Hohenbichler, who was a buyer for various retailers for 20 years, is now responsible for the brands Hanky Panky, Wood’d, Bands of LA, and Prtty in Austria. Prtty is the most recent addition to the agency’s brand portfolio; it offers temporary tattoos that can be delivered instantly. “We have realised that a retailer can generate very high revenues without a risk, if one can offer a good, always deliverable package in the accessories segment”, Obojes explains the reasoning behind adding the temporary tattoo label to his portfolio. “As an agency, we need to take our all-year activity more seriously and persuade the retailers to pay more attention to accessories.” The second new face is Christopher Mönch, who strengthens the sales team and focuses primarily on the representation of collections such as 7 for all Mankind, Switch - Liane TaucherHohenbichler is now workEcoalf, and Aglini in Austria. “Ecoalf, a brand based in ing on the agency side.

Madrid, will launch four-way stretch-tech jackets made of 100 percent recycled materials for the spring/summer 2016 season. The jackets are breathable, water-repellent, windproof, and even sustainable - in short, a truly meaningful worldwide innovation.”

Labels: 7 for all mankind, Aglini, Bands of LA, Canada Goose, Ecoalf, George Gina & Lucy, Giorgio Brato, Hanky Panky, Nemen, NLST, Peuterey, Philo-Sofie, Pomandère, Prtty, R13, Roque, Tkees, Tyoulip Sisters, Warm-ME, Wood’d, Zoe Karssen Welcome to my room with a view, Salzburg/Austria, Zurich/Switzerland, Düsseldorf/Germany, Christopher Mönch office@roomwithaview.at, www.roomwithaview.at strengthens the sales team.

WWW.FRANCOROSSI.IT

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D-tails Niche of Italian Specialists The season opener is the Panorama trade show at the Nova, where the fashion agency D-tails showcases its current brand portfolio. For the Gallery trade fair in Düsseldorf, Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz once again displays his brands in the Botschaft in the Cecilienallee. The labels include Alpha Studio and the reduced men’s fashion line by L!W Brand. A new addition for this season is the tradition-steeped Italian bag brand Gherardini, which celebrated its 130th anniversary with an exhibition at last year’s Pitti Uomo in Florence. Another addition to the portfolio is the Bruno Parise label, which manufactures leather meshwork bags on antique looms in Vicenza. In comparison, the accessories line by 81 Carati Collection - also 100% “Made in Italy” - seems reduced and straight. The bags, belts, wallets, and jewellery focus on the exclusivity of black leather combined with gold metal. People Lab., an Italian collection that presents high-quality washes with sea salt from Venice, remains part of the portfolio too. Its roots lie in detailed vintage denim models, complemented by a string of “favourite items” such as coats, jackets, shirts, knitwear, and dresses.

Labels: People Lab., 81 Carati Collection, Alpha Studio, Anna F., Barleycorn, Bark, Borbonese, Gherardini, Cruna, Duvetica, Essent’ial, Globe-Trotter, Graziani Jewels, Liverani, L(!)W Brand, Massimo Alba, Pollini, Rialto 48, Spektre Sunglasses, Vintage de Luxe, Veeshoo, Wally Walker Agentur D-tails, Munich/Germany, info@d-tails.de, www.d-tails.de The Another Souvenir concept focuses on selected accessories and special product collections.

D-tails focuses on Italian fashion brands, such as Alpha Studio.

Another Souvenir Searched and Found “After half a year of evaluation, we have now found a clear strategy for our agency. We specialise in accessories and special product collections such as the Swedish lifestyle underwear concept Bread & Boxers”, explains Tommy Wieler, who founded Another Souvenir with his wife, Vanessa Baroni-Wieler, in July last year. The special product business is receiving more attention following the addition of two new brands to the portfolio. Tommy Wieler believes in the enormous market potential of the high-end underwear line Bread & Boxers and the new Zinga collection, which includes exclusive leather trousers. “We supply Zinga products to customers such as Apropos, Mia Gergen, Bungalow, Frauenschuh in Kitzbühel, Reyer in Hallein, and Pool in Munich. The detailed workmanship and the stretch leather are very popular. In addition to the respective colours of the season, the brand also offers an extensive NOS programme.” The agency also deals in accessories, which it selects carefully and with passion. The accessories portfolio includes the jewellery labels Vanessa Baroni and Nach Bijoux, Milan-based mobile phone accessories brand Wood’d, and Vienna-based temporary tattoo label Prtty Me. New additions to the agency’s portfolio are the jewellery brand La Môme Bijou, which has already been placed with customers such as Le Bon Marche and Colette, and the Parisian watch collection of Briston, which has been listed by reference customers such as Selfridges, Colette, and Liberty London.

Labels: Bread & Boxers, Briston, La Môme Bijou, Nach Bijoux, Wood’d, Prtty.me, Vanessa Baroni, ZINGA Another Souvenir GmbH, Leinfelden/Germany, tommy@anothersouvenir.de, www.anothersouvenir.de

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Aco Austria Alterna­ tives to Mainstream

Clean & feminine - Hotel Particulier is a new addition to Aco Austria's portfolio.

Hotel Particulier, a clean-feminine and trendy women’s fashion collection produced in France, has been added to the brand portfolio of Aco Austria. The collection is defined by high-quality materials and an upper midrange price structure. The agency’s portfolio is also enriched by Gas Jeans for both women and men. Riani, a German women’s outerwear collection, presents cool-modern looks with casual outfits and a soft, athletic touch. The agency’s range also includes Just Cavalli, Versace, and Trussardi Jeans. The latter has returned with a significantly younger collection, signalling a change of direction for the brand. “We are the ideal partner for multi-brand stores and also offer tailor-made concepts for mono-brand stores, as well as corner-concept solutions”, says Aco Austria’s Rudolf Kail. This also applies to the co-operation with Napapijri. Since 2008, more than 30 mono-brand stores have been opened in all countries from the Baltic states in the North to the Balkan states in the South. These stores are supervised

by Aco Austria, as are the 50 corner-concepts in the same countries.

Labels: Allegri, Atos Lombardini, Elisabetta Franchi, Etoile du Monde, Furry, G 15, Gas Jeans, Geospirit, Happiness, Herzensangelegenheit, Hotel Particulier, Just Cavalli, Maliparmi, Pinko, Riani, Steffen Schraut, Trussardi Jeans, Versace Collection, Versace Jeans, Napapijri Aco Austria, Salzburg/Austria, info@acomode.at, www.acomode.at

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Modeagentur Flessa Trends & Innovations “Significant niche collections have enormous potential. Competent representation benefits their development and leads to a decisive breakthrough, namely the ascent to a well-known designer label”, says Claudia Flessa, the owner of the fashion agency. Since 1999, she and her team have been selectively positioning expressive designer labels and upscale high fashion brands for women in the top segment of the German, Austrian, and Swiss markets. “In an increasingly complex fashion cosmos, we offer orientation with trendsetting brands, of which most are initially completely unknown in our region”, Flessa explains. Currently, the most important brand in the agency’s portfolio is 360 Cashmere, a label that is taking the mostly traditional upscale cashmere segment by storm. The absolute fashion highlights include highend jackets and fine knitted cashmere capes, as well as poncho-inspired cloaks. New additions to the brand portfolio are Printed Artworks, a high-quality Italian cashmere collection with 60 to 70 items mostly for women, and the urban-casual collection designed by Charlotte Sparre, a Danish fashion designer who specialises in light summer dresses, tunics, and blouses. The agency has its own showrooms in Düsseldorf, Munich, and Milan. In Berlin, Modeagentur Flessa presents its portfolio at the Premium trade show.

Labels: 360 Cashmere, Charlotte Sparre, Drome, Printed Artworks, Twisty Parallel Universe, WLNS Cashmere Modeagentur Flessa, Buch am Buchrain near Munich/ Everybody’s darling - 360 Cashmere Germany, info@flessa.eu, has the right cashmere items for all walks of life. www.flessa.eu

Free Mountain Continuous Development After a successful start with the Paltò collection last season, Andreas Schmied has now turned his attention to the launch of the first spring/summer collection for 2016. “We were able to impress many new customers and believe that the new summer range is a contextual expansion within the main collection that has enormous potential”, the agency’s owner explains. Free Mountain also has a party to look forward to: C.P. Company will celebrate its 40th anniversary this year. To mark the occasion, there will be a splendid event during the Pitti Immagine Uomo trade show in Florence. Free Mountain added the brand to its portfolio last year and managed to generate excellent sales figures, “especially with jackets and trench coats”. Mason’s has also taken a notable step forward. Over time, the collection has developed into a complete collection with T-shirts, sports jackets, and trousers. It now also has a small denim line.

Labels: Add, Bloom, C.P. Company, Deyk, Gwynedds, Handstich, IQ+ Berlin, Inverni, Ivi, Mason’s, Paltò, Pyrenex, Sophie Free Mountain, Salzburg/Austria, andreas@freemountain.at, www.freemountain.at

CP Fashion Shirts for Bikers

LA Gang - the new addition to the CP Fashion portfolio.

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The newest brand in CP Fashion’s portfolio is Italy-based LA Gang. The background story of the label with the sub-claim “A motorcycle history gang” is based on the mysterious tragedy that occurred in the Mojave Desert on Route 66 in 1975. A group of six bikers from Los Angeles was arrested for the murder of three men. Supporters of the biker gang printed skulls with bandanas on T-shirts; they organised a string of protests and demanded the release of the group due to a lack of evidence. The collection consists of hand-printed T-shirts and sweatshirts for men and women, as well as a number of short, water-repellent, and windproof jackets. The jackets are elaborately washed, printed, dyed, and finished to achieve a leather-like look. The product range is completed by accessories and a flash programme. “The collection is an ideal addition to our portfolio and is in line with themes inspired by motorcycles and rock & roll”, says Reinhart Oberstein, the managing director of the agency.

Labels: Chaser, Daja Vu, Evleo, Jim & Judy, Joe’s Jeans, King Baby Studio, Michael Stars, Pajar, Pretorian Los Angeles, Robin’s Jeans, Silver Jeans Co., Soia & Kyo CP Fashion, Bad Säckingen, Düsseldorf, and Munich/Germany, info@cpfashion.de, www.cpfashion.de

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Wunschnaht Sneakers from Stockholm Wunschnaht, the fashion agency based in Offenbach’s Heyne Factory and with a showroom in Munich, welcomes a new addition to its brand portfolio. From the spring/summer season of 2016 onwards, the Wunschnaht team, headed by the brothers Robin and Montgomery Juchems, represents the Swedish footwear brand Gram. With the slogan “Sophisticated Sneakers”, Gram strives to position itself between classic men’s shoes and fashionable sneakers. The collection consists of 14 models with 55 stock units for men and women, which are named with the numbers of their exact weight in grams. The collection includes suede slip-ons with elastic side panels, lace-ups made of natural linen with printed toe caps, mesh sandals with soles from running sneakers, and sneakers with leather looks. The retail prices range from 69 Euros for a classic canvas sneaker to 229 Euros for the top of the range model.

The collection focuses on the “380g” model with prices ranging from 149 to 209 Euros. The calculation factor stands at 2.4. All brands represented

by Wunschnaht can be viewed at the Seek trade show in Berlin, as well as in a temporary Düsseldorf showroom in Atelier Reservat (Hansaallee 159) from the 23rd to 31st of July.

Labels: Anderson’s, Be Edgy, Collective, Cote & Ciel, Enso Art, Gram, Lyle & Scott Vintage, Sandqvist, Schiesser Revival, Stutterheim, The One Goods, WhyRed Wunschnaht, Offenbach & Munich/ Germany, info@wunschnaht.de, The mix makes the difference - the Gram hybrids are a www.wunschnaht.de combination of sneakers and traditional shoes.

Aco Germany Wonderful Interplay

Italian brand Pinko stands for fresh fashion, as well as strong service, and is represented by the fashion agency Aco Germany.

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For the current season, the fashion agency Aco Germany has moved into a new showroom at the address Georg-Glock-Strasse 8 in Düsseldorf. “Here we can showcase everything on a walk-in area of 1,350 square metres; we can highlight the interplay between our collections wonderfully”, says Michael Schulz, she managing director of Aco Germany. In co-operation with the fashion agency Select Trading, Aco Germany has added a high-profile newcomer to its already impressive portfolio: Elisabetta Franchi. “The brand is one of the rising stars among the Italian design labels and offers strong contemporary fashion”, Schulz says.

“Elisabetta Franchi already has good sales quotas in the German market; it is stocked by stores such as Hans in Berlin, Laufsteg Bad Homburg, and Grace in Wiesbaden. The average price range is 90 Euros for purchase and 279 Euros in retail. Another important collection within the portfolio is Pinko. It currently has 50 customers in Germany and has now managed to make its way into the ranks of big players like Breuninger and Peek & Cloppenburg.

Labels: AnneClaire, Dsquared Underwear, Ebony&Ivory, Elisabetta Franchi, Fracomina, Front Row Society, Fusalp, Geospirit, Iceberg, Just Cavalli, J&C JackyCeline, Manila Grace, Moschino Underwear, Peuterey, Pinko, Versace Collection Aco Modeagentur, Düsseldorf/Germany, info@acomode.de, www.acomode.de

Another Bag hails with an extended colour range and new qualities.

Modeist GmbH More Depth For the next order round, the brand portfolio of Marion Hoferer’s agency has not changed notably. However, every collection - each specialises in a certain product segment - has added more depth content-wise. The trouser collection Dolores… but you can call me Lolita, which is a private brand of Modeist, has added significantly more trouser models with a feminine, casual style to its portfolio for the summer 2016 season. In addition, the project has extended its product range by adding a men’s line named Current Mood. The belt collection of B.Belt will, alongside the studded belts that are upgraded four times a year, also include leather belts in new qualities as basics. The collection also offers a NOS programme. “It’s a German label that enables us to earn good money”, says Marion Hoferer. Another Bag has extended its product range by adding diverse leather qualities and new looks in a wide variety of colours. The new items are already available for the November 2015 and January 2016 delivery dates. The brand targets the female audience, but also includes a concentrated men’s range.

The leather collection of Montgomery presents even more variants made of smooth leather and suede, as well as fine leather tops and summer dresses. With entry price levels of 299 Euros, the brand strives to establish itself in the jacket segment, just as its MustHaves by Montgomery artificial leather collection. In its second season, the new Hamburg-based knitwear label Brooktorquai 8 presents even more delicate summer items, including wafer-thin cashmere pieces, and expands its collection to 30 items. The blouse collection Mu, which was developed by the fashion house Aglini, has also progressed well. “As of now, the blouses are available in even more casual materials and colours”, Hoferer says.

Labels: 0941, Another Bag, B.Belt, Blaumax, Brooktorquai 8, Montgomery, Mu, MustHaves

by Montgomery, Sassi Cara, WannaHaves by Montgomery Modeist GmbH, Munich and Düsseldorf/Germany, info@b-kleidung.com, www.modeist.com

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Selected - Rehard offers bags and a small jacket collection.

The perfect accessories for the summer - Kerbholz eyewear is a new addition to Deluxe Distribution’s brand portfolio.

Deluxe Distribution New Sunglasses and Shoes The Berlin-based fashion agency Deluxe Distribution has secured the distribution mandate for Kerbholz, a Cologne-based sunglasses and watch brand, for the German and Austrian markets. The label’s frames, which are made of fine woods, natural acetate, or stone, are equipped with Carl Zeiss lenses and stainless steel hinges.

The product range consists of 18 models, made of, among others, walnut wood or grey slate. The prices range from 99 to 169 Euros, with a calculation factor of 2.3. The brand’s watches, made of sandalwood or pear wood with an organic calfskin strap and a Miyota automatic drive, cost between 109 to 499 Euros. A pre-order is not necessary, as the watches and eyewear can be ordered from stock.

In addition, Deluxe Distribution is now responsible for the handling of Ben Sherman Footwear in Germany and Austria. The retail prices for the high-end leather shoes for men range from 99 to 149 Euros, with a calculation factor of 2.4. For the summer season of 2016, the footwear brand offers 32 models in up to three different colours, including Chelsea boots, desert boots, and Chukka boots, as well as derbies. The collection is on display at the Premium trade show and at the GDS. Labels: Ben Sherman Footwear, Kerbholz, Minimum, Minus, Moods of Norway, Puffa, Schutz, Skunkfunk, United Nude, WeSC Deluxe Distribution, Berlin/Germany, info@deluxe-distribution.de, www.deluxe-distribution.de

ModeraumFischer Focus on Skins Lars Fischer is not a man who finds it necessary to jump on every bandwagon. He considers very carefully which brands he adds to his elite portfolio. Rehard, an Italian leather brand, has been under his scrutiny for quite a while. Now Lars Fischer has decided to team up with this label. “Rehard is a new addition to the agency’s portfolio. The brand is an Italian leather specialist that produces beautiful bags and leather jackets. All items are of top quality and can be purchased at very fair prices!” Lars Fischer has proven that his strategy works with his existing brands: “Lucky de Luca is growing steadily and Barb’One generated significantly higher sales last season. The retailers are just as happy with the performance of Barb’One as we are. We could only fulfil the many repeat orders partially.”This season, Lars Fischer will present his brands at Düsseldorf’s Gallery trade show between the 23rd and 29th of July 2015. “This particular trade fair strives to improve continuously and also has great ideas for the future.”

Labels: Barb’one, Lucky de Luca, Rehard Lars Fischer, Munich/Germany, lars@moderaumfischer.de, www.moderaumfischer.de

Fashion Factory by Mark Grütters/Panorama Europe New Footwear Brands A French classic is about to be rediscovered. Fashion Factory and Panorama Europe have secured the distribution rights for Paraboots in Germany and Austria. This French classic with a robust rubber outsole is produced in Norwegian manner with storm welt stitching or classically welted. The shoes have been manufactured in the company’s own factory near Grenoble since 1908. Moccasins and sneakers are produced in Spain, Italy, and Portugal. The brand supplies ten to twelve models for women and men in up to 200 variants. The retail prices for Paraboot is named after a Brazilian port city. The model “Michael” is among moccasins start at 230 Euros and at 350 Euros for welted shoes. The the brand’s most famous classics. calculation factor stands at 2.7. “We decided to team up with Paraboots because the brand is virtually a blank canvas in this country since the 1990s. The shoes are produced sustainably, the service is excellent, and one has the possibility to re-order small quantities throughout the year. The brand stocks approximately 80,000 pairs of the most popular models”, Mark Grütters explains. Celebrities such as George Clooney, Matt Dillon, Harrison Ford, Tom Cruise, Eric Clapton, and Jean Réno are among the fans of the footwear brand from the French Alps. Paraboots are available in 18 countries worldwide. The customer lists includes household names such as Edwards and Robert Schmitz in Düsseldorf, Axel Bohne in Berlin, and Helmut Eder in Kitzbühel. All brands represented by Fashion Factory and Panorama Europe are on show at the Seek trade show in Berlin and the Premium trade fair in Munich. Additionally, Espadrij l’originale has a booth at the Bread & Butter trade show.

Labels: American College, Espadrij l’originale, Grundens, La Botte Gardiane, Menil, Orcival, Paraboots, Rivieras, Schott NYC Fashion Factory by Mark Grütters, Düsseldorf/Germany, contact@ffbymg.com, www.ffbymg.com Panorama Europe GmbH, Düsseldorf/Germany, mail@panorama-europe.eu, www.panorama-europe.eu 315 style in progress

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P4 Marketing General Agency for Zanerobe P4, the Düsseldorf-based sales and marketing agency owned

by Oliver Feske and Thomas Goetz, has been appointed by the Australian label Zanerobe as its general agency for Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. Aachen-based Sasa Trend is responsible for import and distribution. Since 2002, the premium men’s street fashion brand from Sydney has been available at approximately 300 retailers, mainly in Australia, the US, and Asia. The list of retailers includes household names such as Ron Hermann, Neiman Marcus, Atrium, American Rag, Nordstrom, Saks, and General Pants. Zanerobe’s 80-piece collection does not only consist of jogger pants, printed T-shirts, and shorts, but also shirts, jeans, chinos, sweatshirts, and jackets. Inspired by surfing, music, and the travelling lifestyle of the generation of athletic men aged between 15 and 35, the collection is a mixture of commercial basics with contemporary cuts and prints. The retail prices range from 39 Euros for T-shirts to 150 Euros for jackets. The retail price for trousers stands at 99 Euros. The collection is showcased at the Seek trade show in Berlin.

Labels: Icon Brand, RVLT, Zanerobe p4 marketing GmbH, Düsseldorf/Germany, oliver.feske@p4marketing.de, www.p4marketing.de

Zanerobe, the trendy Australian label, now has a sales agent for Germany, Austria, and Switzerland.

The Canadian footwear brand Native Shoes is the most recent addition to the brand portfolio of Keen Sense.

Keen Sense Finesse When Tilo Jacob took over the management of Keen Sense, a new agency established as a subsidiary of Trade Art, in 2014, the company name simultaneously defined the philosophy. “It’s all about developing a keen sense for the essential elements.” In April 2014, the agency launched with the sale of the Upper Streetwear collection of Publish, whose jogger pants proved to be a door opener for customers in the premium sneaker market. Today, the Keen Sense network does not only include relevant sneaker stores, but also approximately 150 customers from the upscale street wear segment, such as BSTN Store in Munich, Crämer & Co in Nuremberg, Asphaltgold in Darmstadt, Stierblut in Munich, and Thomas iPunkt in Hamburg. Over the last two seasons, the portfolio has not only grown continuously, but is has also become more diverse. In addition to established brands such as LRG or Volcomunity (the fashionable sub-line of the Volcom brand), Tilo Jacob also relies on innovative accessories collections such as socks by Stance, the sustainable backpack lines by Pinqpong and AEP, and the watches and sunglasses by Komono. The most recent addition to the portfolio is the Canadian brand Native Shoes, which focuses on ultra-light sneaker models with retail prices starting at 89 Euros. “We plan to introduce Native Shoes at the Seek trade show in Berlin and subsequently approach five to eight selected retailers”, explains Tilo Jacob, who perceives the Seek trade fair as the ideal platform for all his portfolio brands.

Labels: AEP, Komono, LRG, Publish, Native Shoes, Pinqpong, Stance, Volcomunity Keens Sense, Stuttgart/Germany, T 0049.711.16917498, tilo@keensense.de, www.keensense.de

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Ben And Close Ties “We stand for long-term and focused market positioning”, says Ben Botas, the managing director of the fashion agency Ben And. “We achieve this by establishing long-term co-operation agreements and close collaboration with both brands and retailers.” They hired two additional employees to ensure they have a direct line to their customers. Their task is to travel with a view to assessing the mood among retailers, train sales staff, and merchandise brands. The agency’s team was expanded by adding two employees to the showroom in Munich and an additional showroom in Düsseldorf. One of the most important brands in Ben And’s portfolio is Dstrezzed. “This particular brand is enjoying growth that only very few brands of our time experience. It has grown by more than 200% compared to the previous year”, says Ben Botas. “The customers are very satisfied and we want to exploit the brand’s potential to its full extent.”

Labels: Cervolante, Dstrezzed, Franklin & Marshall, Frye Boots, Goosecraft, Loveday Jeans, Mason’s, Nabholz, Sand Ben And GmbH, Munich, Düsseldorf, and Hamburg/ Germany, agency@ben-and.com, www.ben-and.com

Dstrezzed is one of Ben And’s most successful brands. The fashion agency focuses on a small number of brands quite deliberately.

Premium Berlin

Wednesday 8th -Friday 10th July 2015 Luckenwalder Strasse 4 - 6, 10963 Berlin

Who´s next Paris

Friday 4th - Monday 7th September 2015 Paris, Porte de Versailles

Die Hinterhofagentur Germany / Austria Siegesstr . 23, 80802 MĂźnchen Fon +49 (89) 388 877 47-48, mobil : +49 (179) 455 20 23 d.meuer@diehinterhofagentur.de www.diehinterhofagentur.de

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Zalando Acquires Bread & Butter Fashion Exhibition In the future, Zalando does not only want to be a retailer, but also a fashion platform. Now it has achieved exactly that via an acquisition. The announcement that the online giant has decided to take over Bread & Butter, the insolvent trade show specialising in street wear, probably raised quite a few eyebrows.

“The Bread & Butter has managed to establish a strong brand in the international fashion industry over the last few years.

The Bread & Butter team and everyone at Zalando believe in Berlin as a fashion location, which is why we have decided to create a strong, customer-oriented concept for the event”, says David Schneider, the co-founder and board member of Zalando.

Given recent market shifts towards the consumers,

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Karl-Heinz Müller, the founder of Bread & Butter, already announced his intentions to open the trade show for consumers in the past, but distanced himself from the idea after protests from exhibitors. From the 7th to the 9th of July 2015, the Bread & Butter will take place as a pure B2B event for the very last time.

From the following season onwards, Zalando will realign the trade fair at Tempelhof as a B2C concept with events and concerts. It is as yet unclear to what extent Müller will be involved in the realignment, how the exhibitors will fit into the customer-oriented concept, what will remain of the original trade show idea, and in which direction Zalando will soar in the future. There’s loads of room for surprises, that’s for sure!

7th to 9th of July 2015, www.breadandbutter.com

Selvedge Run Room for Connoisseurs

Premium Pioneers Premium strives to remain the leading international trade show that sets new standards. This is why the event fine tunes its programme season after season. It showcases no less than 1,800 collections spread out over ten areas, enriched by a new “Active & Lounge Wear” section in hall 2. “In the US, sports fashion made its way into the hottest fashion stores quite a while ago, which is a trend that promises additional revenue”, Anita Tillmann, the founder, owner, and managing director of Premium Exhibitions & Station Berlin, explains. In addition, the Premium trade show continues its conference format named #Fashiontech in co-operation with the Seek and Re:Publica events. “The interplay of fashion and technology defines the future of the fashion industry. It’s highly enjoyable to be part of this development and to contribute.”

8th to 10th of July 2015, www.premiumexhibitions.com

Panorama More Fashion!

With its very own “Trend Area”, the Panorama trade show in Berlin introduces a new area aimed at emphasising and highlighting its fashion expertise. It includes fashion for men and women, footwear, and accessories, as well as complementary lifestyle articles and a blogger base. The trade fair showcases

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Daniel Werner, a former store manager at 14 oz. Berlin, Burg & Schild’s Jörg Shane Brandenburg, and Matt Wilson from the online magazine Denimhunters (from left to right) take care of both the exhibitors and visitors.

approximately 550 collections.

In addition, the renamed “Now” section for flash collections and fast-moving fashion has been extended; it now includes upto-date inputs from the fashion business itself, such as the “TW Trend Info”. A Panorama Berlin street market in the outside area rounds off the trade show with live music and diverse culinary highlights.

7th to 9th of July 2015, www.panorama-berlin.com

Berlin is enriched by yet another new trade show. The Selvedge Run in the Rheinbeck halls in Schöneweide, located between Airport Schönefeld and Arena Kreuzberg, is aimed at trend-resistant brands from the craft movement. The focus is on handcraft-affine production methods, high-quality materials, and brands that are set apart from the mass market. The organisers, namely Maria Klähn and Andreas Becker, want to

bring together what belongs together. To this end, they have assembled a correspondingly strong team of individuals. In the hall with more than 1,200 square metres of exhibition space, the trade fair showcases brands such as 3sixteen, Alexander Leathers, Indigofera, Iron Heart, Momotaro, Nudie Jeans, Stetson, Tellason, and Wolverine 1000 Mile. Shuttle busses travel directly from Rosenthaler Platz, Alexanderplatz, and Arena Kreuzberg to the site in Schöneweide and back.

8th to 10th of July 2015, www.selvedgerun.com

Show & Order New Presentation Concept The Show & Order trade show takes place in Berlin’s Kraftwerk venue for the eighth time, this time from Tuesday to Thursday. The presentation concept titled “So… by Show & Order”, which brings more than 20 French brands to Berlin, is a new addition to the event. The brand portfolio, including prêt-a-porter fashion, footwear, handbags, jewellery, and lifestyle brands with fragrances, cosmetics, and candles, is compiled by Sophie Guyot from Paris, who organised the Fame section of the Who’s Next trade show in the past. At the Show & Order brands such as Deyia, Amadoria, Zyga, Margareth et Moi, Lenny Niemeyer, Bagllerina, Bangle Up, Lucky Team, Les Interchangeables, Wehve, Charlie Joe, Lespard, Sha’cha, Lener Fabrique de Manteau, Maison Violette, GAS Bijoux, and Bella Jones are afforded the opportunity to showcase their respective product ranges in a chic and cleanly designed showroom. “For our French brands, the Show & Order is the perfect place to present their products to retailers from Germany and Northern Europe. With the ‘So…’ concept, we strive to show buyers a new, truly selective, and clear offering with a view to facilitating the buying process and making it more efficient. I put myself in the position of buyers before selecting the brands we present at the Show & Order”, Sophie Guyot explains.

7th to 9th of July 2015, www.showandorder.com

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The Seek trade show perceives itself as the most progressive Berlin-based event for contemporary fashion. Photo: Renato Silva

Bright New Location This summer, Bright, the street fashion and skateboard trade show, takes place on the premises of the Arena in Kreuzberg, in close proximity to the Seek trade fair. The two events have decided to establish a joint outdoor area with catering facilities and lounges. In addition, visitors will have access to the floating swimming pool, so don’t forget your swimming gear! Compared to the previous location in the Jandorf department store, the total exhibition area is increased by a third. New exhibitors

Seek Familiar At the Seek trade show, 280 collections are on display on the premises of a former public transport warehouse. 80% of the exhibitors focus on menswear, but the trade fair also showcases women’s fashion, shoe, and accessories collections, as well as lifestyle products. “Seek doesn’t focus on the stand size and turnover of a brand, but on the product and the people behind the scenes”, Maren Wiebus, the sales director of Seek Exhibitions, explains. New exhibitors include

some well-known names of the business, such as Dickies, Element, Espadrij L’Originale, and Tretorn. The entrance ticket for the Seek trade show is also valid for the Premium trade show and the Bright trade fair. The latter has found a new home in the “Arena” area, right next to the Seek venue. Maren Wiebus: “Both events have strong concepts and identities, as well as carefully selected brand portfolios. We complement each other perfectly.”

8th to 10th of July 2015, www.seekexhibitions.com

Gallery Continuous Cooperation The upcoming Gallery trade show this July relies on the continuation of its proven concept. This summer’s exhibition portfolio consists of 450 national and international brands. In addition, 50 other manufacturers have joined the high-end Red Carpet segment. The exhibition area of both the “Botschaft” in Cecilienallee and the Red Carpet segment will be expanded. The division of the “Botschaft”, which was already re-segmented in January, remains the same.

The Gold Area is reserved for agencies with international premium brands such as D-tails, Die Hinterhofagentur, Agentur Klauser, and Hugenberg. The Silver Area houses design-oriented brands from the contemporary fashion segment. The White Area stands for a wide variety of accessories manufacturers. Among the exhibitors one also finds labels and agencies such as Armed Angels, 22 Fashion Agency, Pegaso Distribution, Agentur Stefan Kudla, Fish in the Sea, Studioventitre, Masch Agency, and Myfashionpool, as well as Schuhe und Handwerk München. For the first time this summer, the trade show offers a presentation space for progressive designers from neighbouring Poland. The press breakfast on Saturday and the blogger breakfast for selected fashion and lifestyle blogs on the next day are once again firmly anchored in the agenda.

24th to 27th of July 2015, www.the-gallery-duesseldorf.com

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include the likes of Levi’s, DC, Champion, People Footwear, and Maui and Sons. The trade show also offers numerous side events such as the opening party with skate session and barbecue on Wednesday, the after party in Salon Wilde Renate with more than 10 DJs and four dance floors on Friday evening.

The latter is presented by Obey and the Lodown Magazine with a bowl contest, “Chill & Grill”, and its own after-show party.

8th to 10th of July 2015, www.brighttradeshow.com

Munich Fabric Start A Glimpse of Winter With the View Premium Selection in July 2015, the organisers of the Munich Fabric Start trade show give us a first glimpse of the autumn/winter season of 2016/17.

Approximately 300 collections designed by high-quality manufacturers showcase first impressions in Munich’s MVG Museum. New exhibitors include the likes of Marzotto Wool, Lanificio Fratelli Balli, and Lanificio Cerruti. In September, the Munich Fabric Start fair itself then opens the autumn/winter season for real. In the same frame as usual, approximately 950 exhibitors showcase roughly 1,500 basic to haute couture collections. This year, it adds the “Kesselhaus” and its coal bunker, which is directly adjacent to the Zenith Hall’s “Blue Zone” and the MOC, to the event. The plan is to create an area for various suppliers to showcase an inspiration pool of design-relevant products next to the exhibition halls. The usual segmentation remains in place: “Fabrics” (woven and knitted materials from basics to haute couture), “Additionals” (ingredients and accessories), “Asia Salon” (roughly 100 manufacturers from Korea and China), and “Design Studios” (prints, patterns, and designs).

The “Eco Village/organicselection” once again houses certifiers and a selection of sustainable materials and ingredients. These can be sourced online at www.organic-selection.com all year round. The Zenith Hall’s “Blue Zone” once again offers a platform for weavers, finishers, and washers to showcase their innovations in the fields of denim, street wear, and sportswear.

View Premium Selection, 14th to 15th of July 2015, www.viewmunich.com Munich Fabric Start, 1st to 3rd of September 2015 Blue Zone, 1st to 2nd of September 2015, www.munichfabricstart.com

The Munich Fabric Start and Blue Zone open the season with even more presentation area than usual.

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Supreme Women & Men New Opening Hours The opening hours of the two order events, in the B1 Düsseldorf and the MTC World of Fashion Munich, change this summer. They are moved back by an hour to allow the participants to work from 10am to 7pm. “The opening hours have always been an issue.

We noticed that our visitors have changed their behaviour and increasingly visit the trade show beyond the initial opening hours”, says Aline Schade, the sales director of The Supreme Group. Another new feature is the presentation of accessories

GDS A Day for Fashion Bloggers Once again, GDS strives to provide fresh impetus in terms of footwear and accessories this season. New exhibitors in the premium section “Studio” include Mer du Sud from Spain and Intramontabile from Germany. In addition, the series “Portuguese Young Talent” presents a selection of promising young designers for the second time. The “Highlight Route” acts as a stage for special product presentations and events, while the “Catwalk” in hall 10 showcases the new items of individual brands, as does the “Studio Show”. This year, the

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in separate areas. In Düsseldorf, the accessories area is now on the 4th floor of the B1. In Munich, the area is located in hall 5 of house 1 of the MTC World of Fashion. Aline Schade: “With this more focused presentation of accessories we take the interests of the buyers into account.” During the four days of the trade fair, the “Supreme Homebase powered by Maserati” turns into a meeting point for the entire industry. In Düsseldorf, there is, for the third time, a tent landscape with a large food court, joint barbecue, and exclusively designed outdoor area right in front of the event’s location.

Supreme Women&Men Düsseldorf, 25th to 28th of July 2015 Supreme Women&Men Munich, 8th to 11th of August 2015 www.munichfashioncompany.com

“Trendspots” have been moved to a separate area in hall 5, supplemented by “Forum Touch”, which is an information pool for new surfaces and textures.

The trade show in Düsseldorf also dedicates an entire day to fashion bloggers. The GDS has teamed up with the online magazine Styleranking to host the “FashionBloggerCafé Shoedition” on Friday. It is an offshoot of “FashionBloggerCafé”, which is Germany’s largest blogger networking event.

29th to 31st of July 2015, www.gds-online.com

Who’s next Paris Back to the Later Date Instead of in July, the Who’s Next trade show Paris has been moved back to its initial date in early September. For Boris Provost, the trade fair’s head of strategic and international development, it is a logical step to make: “The majority of exhibitors and visitors spoke out in favour of the later date. We are working hard to develop new concepts and services that could attract even more exhibitors and visitors.” The layout of the trade show, which is held in the exhibition centre near the Porte de Versailles, has also changed. Hall 7 remains closed because of renovation work, which means that the trade fair takes place in halls 1, 2, and 3. The “Private” area is in hall 2.2, while areas such as “Studio”, “Urban”, and “Trendy” are housed in hall 3. The “Fame” area is dedicated to cutting-edge collections, while “Première Classe” showcases a broad range of accessories.

Both aforementioned areas can be found in hall 1. To provide easy access, the trade show has two receptions between halls 2 and 3, as well as an additional one in hall 1.

4th to 7th of September 2015, www.whosnext.com

Collection Première Moskau A Prominent Audience The 25th CPM will be opened by a famous face this year, namely Oxana Fedorova, the designer, model, and former Miss Universe. In addition, many Russian actors and fashion bloggers have promised to attend. For the first time there will also be fashion shows involving the brands Lacoste Footwear, Guess, Handstich, Marc Cain, and Strellson. Apart from this new glamour factor, Igedo focuses primarily on continuity by maintaining its concept that projects an optimistic outlook for the industry. The exports from the EU into Belarus are currently growing by 5 percent, which translates into an export volume of approximately 70 million Euros. The exports to Azerbaijan are even increasing to the tune of 17 percent. At the Expocen-

tre Fairgrounds in the centre of Moscow, roughly 1,000 brands will be showcasing their products on an exhibition area of approximately 50,000 square metres. The brands are mostly international manufacturers and the area is divided into themes titled CPM kids, CPM Premium, and CPM Accessories. Alongside this event, the city also hosts Mode Lingerie & Swim, a trade show co-organised by Eurovet, a partner of Igedo. Traditionally, the events are characterised by a high innovation factor and, for the first time, there will be a start-up programme for debut exhibitors. Brands without a Russian sales contact are awarded the opportunity to rent an information stand at a special rate. In addition, they are integrated into the “Wanted Tool”, the online portal of the trade show, where producers and agencies can exchange information.

2nd to 5th of September 2015, www.cpm-moscow.com

Chic Common Cause Last March, Chic, which is China’s leading and most influential trade show, moved from Beijing to Shanghai, the Asian fashion metropolis. From October onwards, Chic will co-operate with the Pure trade show, which is managed by London-based i2i Events Group. Chic is staged in China’s most modern and largest trade exhibition centre, namely the National Exhibition & Convention Center in the Hongqiao district. Alongside a number of Chinese brands, the Chic also attracts numerous suppliers from Europe and other Asian countries. Italy is, for example, represented by an offshoot of the Micam trade show and its own country pavilion, as are France, Korea, and Germany. The trade fair showcases women’s fashion, casual and sportswear, street and urban wear, denim, accessories, and children’s clothing. The supporting programme includes seminars, workshops, and fashion shows, as well as guided tours with international journalists and buyers.

13th to 15th of October 2015, www.chiconline.com.cn, www.pureshanghaishow.com

Photo by Irene Schaur

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Brooklyn Dumbo Under The Bridge

81 Carati Pure Style

The Kooples Exclusively in Germany

The name derives from the New York district right underneath the Brooklyn Bridge. Dumbo is an acronym for Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass. It is therefore also inspired by the Historic District, which is perceived as one of the most flourishing art districts of the metropolis. Valentino de Luca channels the spirit and the energy of the iconic street canyons into his new Brooklyn Dumbo collection.

It is focused on urban, super-casual T-shirts (39 Euros retail price), sweatshirts (99 Euros), polo shirts (79 Euros), hoodies (119 to 129 Euros), and sweatpants (99 to 119 Euros) in elaborate washes. “I deliberately kept the overall look discreet. The only style elements are either a logo print or an embroidered logo”, de Luca explains. The first collection for summer 2016, which will be debuted at the Premium trade show in Berlin, will consist of six models for women and six for men. Valentino de Luca puts a lot of emphasis on quality and a fair price-performance ratio. To achieve the latter, he co-operates with a producer based in Istanbul. The collection will only be available in summer. Moderaumfischer’s Lars Fischer will accompany the launch in Germany, while Salzburg-based Parisa Engel will do the same in Austria.

Moderaumfischer, Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.45239893, lars@moderaumfischer.de, www.luckydeluca.de

The design is reduced and timeless, predestined to survive several seasons.

81 Carati, an accessories line designed

by Marianna Modena, focuses on the essentials. The dominant colour is black, combined with golden highlights.

Square, tidy, and well-proportioned shapes are combined with gold zippers and metal elements. A small, fine collection of bags - including shoppers, document cases, laptop bags, and light backpacks - follows the same principle.

Mobile phone bags, wallets, and credit card holders complement the product range. The brand’s belts are made of various materials such as smooth leather, python, and pony skin and are decorated with vintage treatments or rivets. The product range is completed by rustic bracelets with studs, rhinestones, and metal decor. The special feature is that all bags, belts, wallets, and jewellery items are manufactured with quality craftsmanship in Italy. The list of customers includes stores such as Queen in Brescia and Concept in Verona.

Negretto Showroom, Verona/Italy, T 0039.045.581700, negretto@negretto.it, www.81carati.com

Next season, Düsseldorf-based fashion agency MAB will start marketing The Kooples in Germany. It’s an exclusive deal, as the Paris-based brand has chosen Germany as the only market worldwide for entering the wholesale business with its fashion collections for women and men.

There are plans to add more stores to the three that already exist in Berlin. “Due to the highly positive development of The Kooples in its own stores, as well as in the existing shop corners and shop-in-shop concepts in German department stores, the decision was a very easy one.

The feedback and the results were - and still are - extremely positive”, Regis Benabou, the owner of MAB, says. For him, the collection’s statement was the decisive factor. It stands for wearable fashion, cool understatement, and an excellent price-performance ratio. The retail prices for women’s outerwear range from 88 Euros for a T-shirt to 362 Euros for a leather dress. The retail prices for the men’s collection range from 99 Euros for a polo shirt to 630 Euros for a leather jacket. The calculation factor stands at 2.6. “The company can deliver its full range very early in the season and supports the retailers with numerous promotion activities”, Regis Benabou explains.

The Kooples, Paris/France, T 0033.1.44779977, contact@thekooples.com, www.thekooples.com

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Prince Tees Keep It Simple

Prtty Custom Made

Maurizio Massimino Every Item is Unique

The idea is simple. Enzo Fusco, the owner of FGF Industry, teamed up with his friend, Prinz Emanuel of Savoy in Italy, to create a T-shirt label that offers more than the usual range of shirts. The result is Prince Tees, a fine collection of T-shirts characterised by a distinct fabric blend (85% cotton and 15% cashmere). Prince Tees is the newest addition to the FGF Industry portfolio, which also includes brands such as Blauer, C.P. Company, and Ten C. “The shirts are truly unmistakable due to their composition in terms of look, colour, and super-soft feel”, says Torsten Müller, whose agency, Room Nine, has been selected as the distributor for the German market and currently showcases the collection in showrooms in Düsseldorf and Munich. The collection consists of three models for men and women in six colours. The purchase price stands at 32 Euros, with a calculation factor of 2.7. Prince Tees releases its collection four times per year, with short delivery cycles of eight weeks.

FGF Industry, Montegalda/Italy, T 0039.0444.635146, info@fgf-industry.com, www.fgf-industry.com

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Everyone wants one right now - stars such as Beyoncé, Rihanna, and Vanessa Hudgens, as well as women like you and I, on any hotspot around the globe. We are, of course, talking about temporary, decorative tattoos. What was initially a hippie gimmick for days at the beach, has developed into a tangible accessories trend. Prtty is one of the most successful companies in this sector. The most beautiful designs in transient gold and silver are created in the Vienna-based studio of Prtty and then sent out into the world. Sebastian Olesko, the creative director, takes great care to ensure that the tattoos are non-toxic and completely hypoallergenic. At the moment, theme-based tattoos such as the design titled “Adele” are particularly popular. These designs were launched for the annual Life Ball in Vienna. For the coming season, the focus is on party themes and a design that will be titled “In bed with Prtty”.

The latter will look particularly beautiful in combination with lingerie. Furthermore, Prtty also offers custom tattoos, which means it implements individual designs on request. The retail prices start at 35 Euros. Prtty showcases its product range at the Premium trade show in Berlin.

Germany: Another Souvenir, Leinfelden/ Germany, T 0049.160.96359318, tommy@anothersouvenir.de, Austria: Welcome to my room with a view, Salzburg/Austria, T 0043.662.875651, office@roomwithaview.at, www.prtty.me

The Italian designer Maurizio Massimino can look back on a long career as a specialist for washings and as a trend consultant for large denim brands such as Dsquared, Diesel, and True Religion. Three years ago, he decided to launch his own project under his name. Today, the Maurizio Massimino brand is a synonym for couture and inimitable style. The designer’s collections re-interpret the American traditions of the 1950s and 1960s, combining them with military elements, velvet, and knitwear. Since the autumn/winter 2015 season, the brand is represented in Germany by Munich-based Adventure Modeagentur. The individual, small collection, consisting of 40 items each for women and men, boasts many highlights. The washings and designs impress with intricate details and are almost all unique. Purchase prices range from 135 to 175 Euros, with a calculation factor of 2.8. Maurizio Massimino uses limited Japanese Red Selvage Denim for his trousers. The fabric is refined by hand both inside and outside with English materials or Foulard prints, which ensures that every item is a unique piece of clothing.

Blue Art Srl, Bene Vagienna/Italy, T 0039.335.5453256, massimino.maurizio@gmail.com, www.mauriziomassimino.it

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Gherardini Rich in Tradition

Annie P. Italian Total Look

Headhunter On The Hunt

Fashion is like a bottle of good wine; you want to know where it comes from.

In the case of Annie P., the origin is simultaneously a quality promise. After all, South Italy’s Apulia - the region around Martina Franca to be precise is perceived as one of the prestigious production areas in Italy. This is where Anna D’Eredità and Pietro Lacarbonara initially produced items for international designer brands before establishing their own brand, Annie P. Since the spring/summer season of 2013, they present their own total look collection that combines the perfect fits of Italian style with innovative design. Annie P. stands for love and care in the production of high-quality women’s outerwear.

The collection is currently represented in Germany, the UK, Spain, Denmark, Russia, the Ukraine, the Czech Republic, China, and Japan. The list of high-end reference customers includes household names such as Lodenfrey in Munich, Tatem in Berlin, and Luisa Via Roma in Florence. The retail prices range from 129 to 189 Euros for coats, start at roughly 70 Euros for dresses, and range from 55 to 85 Euros for tops.

The calculation factor lies between 2.8 and 3.0.

Annie P., Martina Franca/Italy, T 0039.335.5226306, showroom@anniep.it, www.anniep.it

The latest international fashion scene trends are the elixir that fuels the designers of Headhunter, who translate those trends into a feminine, casual, and highly fashionable chic collection.

The driving force behind the brand is DS Fashion GmbH, a subsidiary of Netherlands-based DS Group, which has operated successfully in the international fashion business for more than 40 years. Since December 2014, Kai Seesemann, who is based in Hamburg, is the managing director of DS Fashion and therefore responsible for the women’s collection of Headhunter, as well as the hat, scarf, and shirt collection of Freaky Heads, Freaky Kids, and the high-end Hamburg-based knitwear collection BTQ 8. All the aforementioned brands share a showroom in the heart of Hamburg’s warehouse district. Headhunter was launched in 2011; the spring/summer 2016 collection consists of 5 lines with approximately 40 items.

The retail prices range from 120 to 300 Euros.

The calculation factor stands at 2.7.

DS Fashion GmbH, Hamburg/Germany, T 0049.89.30373394-0, info@dsfashion-hamburg.de, www.dsfashion-hamburg.de/marken/headhunter

Gherardini, founded 130 years ago (in 1885)

by Garibaldo Gherardini in Florence, stands for classic casual women’s bags. Today, the company specialises in textile bags, leather goods, and accessories. The spectrum of the collection ranges from the practical “Dodicidodici” bag from 1959, over the “Bellona” bag from 1967, to casual light shoppers. Gherardini is defined by traditional manufacturing methods and the typical “G” logo, as well as the use of high-end materials, such as the typical “Ghe Softy” fabric, in many different colours. The retail prices for the bag models start at approximately 140 Euros, with a calculation factor of 2.7. Since 2007, Braccialini produces and distributes the luxury brand. Most recently, the brand developed Mr. Gherardini, which is an individual collection for men. It consists of business bags and travel luggage. Gherardini runs its own flagship stores in Rome, Florence, and Milan. The company also operates no less than 50 stores in Japan.

Some of the bag models have already made their way into museums. It really is high time for a start this side of the Alps…

Braccialini S.p.A., Scandicci/Italy, T 0039.05575771, showroom@gherardini.it, www.gherardini.it

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Barbed The Excellence of Simplicity

ATF Clothing New Menswear

Freaky Heads A Matter of the Head

The menswear label ATF - Authentic Textile Fabrics - stands for innovative and formal street wear. The collection is chic, but with a sporty character and extremely suitable for everyday use. The label was founded in 2012 by the two Nuremberg-based entrepreneurs, Max Crämer and Moritz Lorenz.

All items are produced exclusively in Europe. Small details give the products a useful function, without making them too sporty, overpowering, or technical. The focus is on material qualities, optics, and textures, which give the 25-piece collection that special distinction. The retail prices for T-shirts start at 40 Euros and at 80 Euros for trousers and hoodies. ATF only recently opened its own store in Nuremberg. The label’s customer list includes the likes of Starcrow Paris, Visitor Store Zurich, Reservoir Brussels, Needs Chicago, Newseum by Crämer & Co Nuremberg, Above and Dost Berlin, Rocket Munich, Stierblut Munich, Stereoki Berlin, and Daniels Cologne. The items are also available online at cultizm.com. ATF showcases its product range at the Seek trade show in Berlin.

ATF Workshop GmbH, Nuremberg/ Germany, info@atf-clothing.com, www.atf-clothing.com

“We take the classic sensible hat and transform it into an individual and wearable fashion statement. Our hats are classics in their own right already”, reads the motto of Freaky Heads, a hat and accessories collection that was launched in 2013. Kai Seesemann, the managing director of Hamburg-based DS Fashion GmbH, has big plans: “My goal is to ensure that Freaky Heads has a clear brand strategy and is available at all significant POS in Europe within the next two to three years.” For spring/summer 2016, the coarsely knitted hats in cool boyfriend styles are complemented by caps, bucket hats, and Gatsby caps. With retail prices ranging from 20 to 50 Euros and a calculation factor of 2.7, Freaky Heads is clearly aimed at a younger, trend-conscious target group. The brand is listed at stores such as Görtz and Görgens Group.

DS Fashion GmbH, Hamburg/Germany, info@dsfashion-hamburg.de, www.dsfashion-hamburg.de/marken/ freaky-heads

They claim to have been the first to revive the parka trend four years ago, thereby making the cult jacket fashionable again. To this end, the brand bought original vintage parkas from the US Army and upgraded them in its production facilities in Florence with new elements such as Portuguese fur trims on the collars. Each parka comes with a certificate that communicates the origin of the fur, right down to the living conditions of the animals that supplied the fur.

For the autumn/winter collection of 2015/16, Barbed expanded its product range by adding camouflage patterns in various colours, as well as lambskin as hood and as lining. As early as the spring/summer season of 2015, Barbed presents a summer collection including, among others, elaborately embroidered parkas. Since entering the market four years ago, Barbed has managed to list its products at stores such as Breuninger in Stuttgart, Pool in Munich, and Jades in Düsseldorf. The retail prices range from 450 to 839 Euros. The calculation factor ranges from 2.7 to 2.8.

Barbed s.r.l., Scandicci/Italy, T 0039.055.790632, barbed@barbed.it, www.barbed.it

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Heinrich Dinkelacker New Mindset with Tradition

Private White V.C. Hero Material

Brosbi With Heart and Mind

This brand from Manchester is named after Jack White, a British soldier. He was awarded the Victoria Cross for his heroic service during the First World War. After the war, he became a trained pattern cutter and subsequently took over the factory that produces the Private White collection to this day. Jack White passed away in 1949 at the age of 52. His great-grandchildren bought back the factory, which produced items by brands such as Burberry and Nigel Cabourn, in 1997. The Private White collection is designed by Nick Ashley, the former head of design at Dunhill Menswear and the son of interior design star Laura Ashley. It consists of classic jackets and coats for both men and women. The up to 20 models are available in various materials and colours. The collection highlights include leather and Harrington jackets, parkas and trench coats made of ultra light Ventile material, and a bomber jacket made of Alcantara leather. It is even possible to combine materials and colours freely. Retail prices range from 300 to 1,100 Euros, with a calculation factor of 2.6. The best-known Private White customers are household names such as Harrods, Manufactum, and Mr Porter.

Private White V.C. Ltd, Manchester/ Great Britain, T 0044.161.834.7521, ryan.gray@privatewhitevc.com, www.privatewhitevc.com

Yves-Oliver and Dennis Wilke, two brothers from Bielefeld, quit their respective jobs at larger fashion brands when they founded Brosbi in 2012. The label focuses on the Contemporary Classics fashion segment and draws inspiration from Street and Urban Wear brands; it designs down-to-earth items with a healthy shot of humour and self-irony. As a matter of fact, the label’s Icon series is already on its way to attaining cult status. The latter is a series of T-shirts and button-down shirts with an embroidered red heart, green shamrock, yellow duck, or monogram on the chest. The complete collection consists of between 60 and 70 items with a calculation factor of 2.7. Retail prices range from 49 to 69 Euros for T-shirts, 99 to 169 Euros for shirts and sweatshirts, and 369 to 499 Euros for blazers, coats, and jackets. The retail prices for trousers start at 119 Euros. The items are produced in Poland, Portugal, and Turkey. Notepads and calendars are manufactured by a German bookbinder.

Brosbi is, inter alia, stocked by the following stores: Voo Store, Department Store Quartier 206, Brooks, Heckmann, BOB, Thomas I Punkt, Harvest, and Sprout, as well as Czech Labels & Friends in Prague, Philos in Athens, Dictionary in Milan, Lyyk Store in St. Petersburg, MOS in Maastricht, and Black Sheep Road in Amsterdam. The collection will be on show at the Seek trade fair and will, possibly, also make its debut in Paris.

Gebr. Wilke GmbH Lifestyle Laboratory, Bielefeld/Germany, T 0049.521.55600344, info@brosbi.com, www.brosbi.com

Since 1879, the Heinrich Dinkelacker brand has been renowned for its exclusive men’s footwear.

To this day, the Budapest-based manufactory produces handcrafted, welted shoes made of highest quality materials, ensuring that this durable footwear has a lifespan of up to 30 years.

This justifies retail prices between 549 and 800 Euros. For the last ten years, a dedicated team of managing partners has made it their task to lead the business into a successful future.

Former IBM executive Norbert Lehmann, former Porsche CEO Wendelin Wiedeking, and former Porsche spokesman Anton Hunger launched the Special Edition Icons line three seasons ago, in close cooperation with various designers. The first design partner was the English menswear brand Casely-Hayford with a range of sneakers and Budapest style shoes with braided frames and typical Dinkelacker metal tip; the retail price is about 699 Euros with a calculation factor of 2.36. This season’s cooperation partner is Hadi Teherani, a well-known architect famous for designing the “Kranhäuser” in Cologne and the “Fernbahnhof” airport in Frankfurt.

Heinrich Dinkelacker GmbH, BietigheimBissingen/Germany, T 0049.7142.91740, info@heinrich-dinkelacker.de, www.heinrich-dinkelacker.de 13

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Stilnest Maximum of Individuality

Featuring Successful Differentiation

Fiveunits Scandinavian Spirit

Following its re-branding in spring/ summer 2015, Featuring, a label of China-based Bosideng International Holding formerly known as Bosideng Polar Sense, is now standing firmly on its own feet. It’s been quite a success story too. The combination of innovative Italian design, creative experimentation with fashion, and the expertise of one of the world’s largest down specialists seems to be working, as can be seen in the two fashion collections per year. Featuring blends current trends and functional materials, thereby creating high-end outer-wear at an affordable price. Most retail prices range from 129.95 Euros to 199.95 Euros; the calculation factor stands at 2.7. The label offers pre-orders and stock programmes, while a NOS concept for selected down basics is in the planning stage. The label showcases its goods at various trade shows in Europe: Panorama Berlin, Pure London, AIS Birmingham, CIFF Copenhagen, and Texcon Oslo. The items are sold in stores such as Fabri Munich, Hallet Londong, and via Zalando.

Zitra GmbH, London/England, T 0044.7785.353948, derek.binns@zitra.com, www.featuring-fashion.com

Fiveunits, a denim collection created by Carit Løvendal in 2008, is headquartered in Copenhagen. It’s not just one of many labels, but a lovingly created line of trousers that is suitable for many occasions. Fiveunits takes pride in its different styles and fits such as “skinny”, “boyfriend”, and “high waist”. Denim is always the key material: “destroyed”, bleached, or coated. The brand also utilises other materials such as cotton prints, leather looks, and other coated variants. Fiveunits designs four collections per year and also offers an extensive stock programme. The main collection consists of between 60 and 70 items; another 30 to 40 items are added for the second delivery date.

The purchase prices range from 30 Euros to 40 Euros with a 2.7 calculation factor. Fiveunits is already stocked by numerous retailers such as Donna Hannover, Crämer & Co Nuremberg, Elb

by Kult Cologne, Stierblut Munich, and Classico Hamburg. In addition to the Scandinavian and German speaking markets, the label also has a presence in England, Holland, and Belgium.

Fiveunits, Copenhagen/Denmark, T 0045.7170.6055, rasmus@fiveunits.dk, www.fiveunits.com

3D printers are the new wonder weapon utilised in the competition for creative consumers.

This new technology enables manufacturers of jewellery and accessories to produce individual models in small quantities. Stilnest, which was founded in Berlin in 2013, perceives itself as a platform for high-quality jewellery design.

The website of the self-proclaimed “publishing house” showcases more than 250 carefully selected pieces created by more than 100 designers from all over the world. The models are manufactured in fine polyamide on a 3D printer before being packaged and shipped. In addition to the lightweight plastic items, the technology also allows the production of sterling silver rings, necklaces, and bracelets with different surfaces such as gold plating. A portion of the sales goes directly through the website, but Stilnest also has a number of commercial customers in Germany, Austria, Switzerland, the UK, and Asia. The customer list includes the likes of LNFA in Bikini Haus Berlin, Uppers & Downers Vienna, Element Jewellery Yorkshire (UK), and Regalo Shanghai. The jewellery prices range from 50 to 200 Euros, with a calculation factor between 2.3 and 2.8.

Spontaneous Order GmbH, Berlin/Germany, T 0049.176.307.34653, tim@stilnest.com, www.stilnest.com 16

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Goldbergh The Summit of Fashion

Dolores... but you can call me Lolita Small and Beautiful

Geniestreich Jeans – Made in Germany

The luxury sportswear brand Goldbergh proves how the attributes functionality, practicality, and luxury can be successfully combined. Designer Lieke van den Berg strives to concentrate on essentials: “It’s not about extremes, but about beautiful clothes that radiate simplicity, elegance, and tranquillity.” The women’s collection includes tailored jackets and finest knitwear, as well as oversized parkas and functional ski pants with retro elements. The purchase prices of the two annual collections range between 34 Euros for accessories to 341 Euros for jackets.

The calculation factor throughout Europe stands at 2.6. Re-orders are possible to a certain extent, and one ski pants model is available at all times. Fixed presentation dates are: Show & Order Berlin, Modefabriek Amsterdam, Sia Snow Show Denver, and ispo Munich. The list of customers includes Intersport, Engelhorn Mannheim, Strolz Sport & Mode Lech am Arlberg, and Sport Adler Ischgl. Regarding distribution, the Netherlands-based label relies on a mixed concept of importers and sales agents.

Goldbergh is currently in expansion mode and has secured new importers for the Spanish, American, and Canadian markets.

Goldbergh BV, Amsterdam/The Netherlands, T 0031.20.6155492, info@goldbergh.com, www.goldbergh.com

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In her capacity as owner of the fashion agency ModeIst, Marion Hoferer is always in touch with what the market needs and what her customers want.

With the trousers collection Dolores… but you can call me Lolita, she responded emphatically to the need for small, pointed product collections that cannot be found at every other store.

The result is a feminine 6-piece trousers line with a uniform retail price of 199 Euros (calculation factor 2.8), which will hit the stores in July 2015. The line will be extended to 15 pieces for the spring/summer season 2016. There are also plans for a men’s line with 6 models for 2016, but this range will be launched under a different - still secret - name. Marion Hoferer quite deliberately refuses to describe the style of the women’s collection in silhouettes, but in emotional snapshots such as “trousers that simply make women even more beautiful and brighten up their days”.

She clearly wants to avoid setting too tight a frame, especially as she wants to retain as much flexibility as possible.

Producing in Turkey secures flexibility, whereby Marion Hoferer has decided against an extensive NOS programme and only stocks a limited number of models. Small and beautiful simply would not fit into a concept dominated by minimum quantity dictations.

ModeIst GmbH, Munich/Germany, T0049.89.15985591, info@b-kleidung.com, www.modeist.com

Initially, Andreas Güntzel only wanted to buy a pair of jeans that were made in Germany. When his efforts proved fruitless by March 2013, he and his wife decided to found a company and produce trousers themselves. Since October 2014, their label Geniestreich supplies its customers with jeans made of GOTS certified organic cotton. Two retailers in Bielefeld, and two more in the surrounding area, have already agreed to stock their “Made in Germany” trousers. The label produces four styles for men: regular, slim, boot cut, and a special cut for cyclists with strong thighs. Women can choose from seven styles, one hot-pants model, and a cocktail dress made of finely woven 8oz material. All jeans can be ordered in a vegan version, with a woven label instead of a leather patch. Retail prices start at 149 Euros, while a made-to-measure model costs 199 Euros.

The calculation factor ranges between 2.2 and 2.3. The Turkish fabrics are transported to the manufactory in Bielefeld by truck. A master seamstress and a pattern cutter produce the jeans on seven new Yuki sewing machines and an old Dürkopp buttonhole machine. The label is more than capable of handling large orders. Retailers can benefit from the fact that Geniestreich is also willing to consider smaller orders. Follow-up orders are delivered within 5 to 10 days.

Upstream GmbH, Bielefeld/Germany, T 0049.521.4282156, info@geniestreich-jeans.de, www.geniestreich-jeans.de

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Salco There Once Was This Raincoat…

A Fortiori Women’s Power

The No Animal Brand Vegan Fashion

Corinna Locher spent a lot of time looking for simple - yet not boring - basics to complement jeans and blazers, without success. Spontaneously, she decided to create her own collection defined by high quality and perfect fits. Locher wanted to avoid mass production at all costs and has a very hands-on approach, which is why the design, creation, and production processes take place exclusively in Switzerland. The special feature of the collection is that the volume of material for every item is limited and when that fabric is depleted, the label utilises new material with a new colour shade.

So far, A Fortiori offers a fine range of tops and pullovers, all with a minimum of 30% cashmere content. The other items are made of cotton, silk, or a modal/spandex blend. The purchase prices range from 190 Euros to approximately 400 Euros. For every sold item, Corinna Locher donates 5 Swiss Francs to a selected Swiss charity focusing on social issues. Seeing that sensual pleasures are just as important for the customers’ well-being, Corinna Locher also developed a fragrance and body lotion to complement her tops.

A Fortiori GmbH, Meilen/Switzerland, T 0041.79.686.7210, corinna@afortiori.ch, www.afortiori.ch

For the last three seasons, The No Animal Brand, a Swiss label based in Baar, has proven that a fashionable shoe does not necessarily have to be made of leather. The collection focuses on both style and wearability, which has earned the brand a place in retailers such as Jades, Jet Set St. Moritz, Breuninger, and Jelmoli Switzerland. After an impressive start, the label enters the autumn/winter season of 2015/2016 with a lot of fake fur, a healthy dose of tweed and felt, brocade, lace embossing, and snake prints on feminine sandals, pumps, boots, and sneakers. The fact that the brand founders, namely Bianca Gubser and Nicole Frank, so consistently refuse to use any animal products, was recently recognised with the prestigious PETA Vegan Award. The No Animal Brand produces in Spain exclusively. Purchase prices range from 27 to 60 Euros, with a calculation factor of 2.6. The brand also launched its own online store (www.the-nab.com) last spring.

The No Animal Brand, Baar/Switzerland, T 0041.79.5598888, info@shades-newyork.com, www.the-nab.com

The Italian manufactory Salco has been renowned for handmade high-end coats ever since its foundation in 1951. It can look back on a long successful history that continues to this day. Even after almost 65 years, the label, founded by Ricciotti Salvadori in Empoli, still remains in family hands due to enthusiasm, economic intuition, and the right mixture of fashionable traditions and Italian innovations.

Salco swiftly became a household name in the Italian menswear industry, especially as the label, which sponsored the Italian national football team in 1974, was soon seen as the “home” of the raincoat for the local gentleman.

Since the 1970s, Salco has been gradually shifting its focus to women’s outerwear and down jackets with fur applications, which remain core competencies of the jacket manufacturer to this day. Salco is perceived as an exclusive brand, not only due to purchase prices around 200 Euros, but also because of the presentation events for the two annual collections, which are staged in the Milan-based showroom only. Salco has convinced numerous stores in countries such as Italy, Russia, and Japan to stock its products.

Salco S.p.A., Empoli/Italy, T 0039.02.76394028, showroom.mi@salcoitalia.it, www.salcoitalia.com

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Création Gross GmbH & Co. KG // Houbirgstraße 7 // D-91217 Hersbruck // Phone +43 (0) 664 4 12 35 17 // E-Mail: h.kitzler@carlgross.com // cg-club-of-gents.com

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Jadicted Individual Ways

Vocier Wrinkle-Free in the Hand Luggage

Koll3kt Technology & Innovation

With their Jades stores, Evelyn Hammerström and Reinhard Haase have definitely managed to coin a new look, which is also celebrated on the Jadicted blog. Last season, the time was ripe for an own, eponymous label. Jadicted is a collection of tops, which was first delivered to retailers in May 2015. The main focus is on the all-round product blouse. The everyday companions are made of finest silk, satin, or washed silk and come in a variety of styles, ranging from a classic waisted version to casual tunics. Tank tops, shirts, and dresses complete the product range. Alongside a number of basic colours, the main focus is on graphic and animal prints. The two delivery dates for autumn/winter 2015 consist of 13 different fits at retail prices between 189 and 229 Euros. The product range will be expanded gradually by adding shirts and knitwear.

Blue Brain by Unifa, Düsseldorf/Germany, T 0049.211.171499117, inkasorice@unifafashion.com, www.unifa-fashion.com

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Can one manage not to wrinkle a suit during a business trip? One would think it’s an impossible task. Vocier’s newly developed hand luggage offers a solution based on a revolutionary concept that allows some clothing items to be stored in a separate part of the suitcase, thereby preventing wrinkles.

The two company founders, namely Michael Kogelnik and Vinzent Wuttke, took four years to develop the innovation that only recently earned them an international design award. “We had to completely rethink the way luggage is made”, Michael Kogelnik explains. “The result is amazingly simple to use, but simplicity always is the biggest challenge.” The Black Collection consists of bags and suitcases at purchase prices of 38 Euros for a wash bag, 274 Euros for the C 38 carry-on trolley made of a combination of high-strength plastics used in the automotive industry and leather. The calculation factor stands at 2.5. The company headquarters is located in Neustadt, Austria, which is also where part of the production process takes place. “The innovative materials we use wouldn’t be procurable outside Europe”, Kogelnik reveals.

“Another reason is the protection against others copying our innovative and patented system. Since we control the production process, we can prevent our know-how leaving the company.

Last but not least, we can rely on the quality of our partners’ workmanship.”

Retail customers such as Modehaus Schnitzler in Münster, Moeller & Moeller in Hannover, Richard Anderson in London, and Niedersuesz in Vienna have already been convinced of Vocier’s qualities.

Vocier GmbH, Neustadt/Austria, T 0043.650.8504376, support@vocier.com, www.vocier.com

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The focus of Netherlands-based menswear line Koll3kt is on creative and wearable products.

The label is defined by quality, functionality, and innovation. However, it always ensures that its designs aren’t overloaded with too many details. Every item is equipped with a hangtag and an inside-print, highlighting the technical features and origin. Functional materials such as bondings or coated surfaces are combined with basics such as casual cotton or coolly washed trousers. The retail prices range from 349 to 699 Euros for elaborately processed jackets, from 179 to 199 Euros for trousers, and from 69 to 129 Euros for shorts. Koll3kt was first introduced at Premium Berlin and has since won over a string of progressive menswear specialists such as Daniels Cologne, Pier 67 Hamburg, Fischer Leipzig, Atelier 12 Berlin, Stylesuite Maastricht, and Didato Amsterdam.

Superior Goods BV, Sprang Capelle/ The Netherlands, T 0031.641.839329, j.wielink@koll3kt.com, www.koll3kt.com

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Zukunft braucht Herkunft.

Visit us at…

PREMIUM Berlin 08.07. – 10.07.2015 Halle 3, Stand E06 www.meindl-fashions.de

074 THE LONGVIEW

Christiane Arp and Anita Tillmann are on a joint mission to fight for the reputation of German fashion design.

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Fashion Needs to be on the Political Agenda

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It requires active and purposeful promotion of young talent to win the world championship.

Proving an economic law with a football analogy is not a male domain, as evidenced by Christiane Arp and Anita Tillmann.

They have set out to change things.

The editor-in-chief of the German Vogue and the managing director of the Berlin-based Premium trade show are at the heart of the newly founded Fashion Council Germany, an expert committee that strives to change the perception of fashion in Germany with passion and expertise - in equal parts.

Interview: Stephan Huber.

Text: Isabel Faiss.

Photo: Peter Rigaud

If I could wish for the perfect outcome of this interview, I would wish for two things: a vision of what the German fashion industry is actually capable of and what is needed to fulfil this potential.

Christiane Arp: Our approach is to look forward, not back. The time for moaning is over. We have set out to change things and to make the idea of the Fashion Council Germany as a focal point for young designers become a reality. That was our basic mood – to stop dwelling on the past and shape the future.

Accordingly, the foundation of the Fashion Council Germany is a response to a demand.

Nevertheless, one wonders who needs such a platform and what it intentions it has.

CA: Young talent needs the Council more than anybody else. We need a 365-day lobby for fashion and this doesn’t exist to date. I can’t cover that with Vogue alone.

Anita Tillmann: Even a trade show like the Premium can’t do that, because twice a year simply isn’t enough.

CA: It requires the right platform and we need to get the right people to pull together. We all have 24/7 jobs and the Council needs extra time and passion. We have a lot of talent in Germany and people who are willing to dedicate themselves to fashion.

However, we lack team spirit and a common understanding that the promotion of Germany as a fashion location is in all our interests. This is another reason

“What we lack is the acceptance of the entrepreneurship in the creative industries.”

– Anita Tillmann

why we need the Council.

In my opinion, the fashion industry lacks the social pride in entrepreneurship per se. Other countries do have that. While a local designer is perceived positively in other countries, this doesn’t seem to apply to Germany. Why is that so?

AT: I don’t believe that is the case amongst the new generation.

The young designers no longer have a problem with Germany.

What we lack is the acceptance of the entrepreneurship in the creative industries. Entrepreneurship in itself has always existed in Germany and we are very strong in that field historically speaking.

However, this doesn’t apply to creativity. What is happening now - not only in the fashion business, but in all fields - is that creative processes and entrepreneurship are no longer separated.

This creates new products, innovations, new jobs, and added value. This is where the Fashion Council Germany comes in.

Everywhere in the world we meet exceptional German designers who have no problem with their home country or their recognition there. They simply didn’t have a lobby for creative talent

“The fashion industry has to follow suit, as should all institutions and companies in Germany, especially retailers and speciality stores.” – Christiane Arp 315 style in progress

here during the start-up phase.

The only support designers receive comes from individuals, but this system is too fragile and subjective. That is what we need to change. Young designers have no problem with Germany as such, but with what this country has to offer.

CA: One of our main objectives is to achieve that fashion is perceived as a cultural asset in Germany. At the Condé Nast International Luxury Conference of Suzy Menkes in Florence, the mayor stood on the podium and said that fashion is part of culture and a passion. Would we like to see that happen in Germany? Of course!

But why is that not the case already?

AT: Honestly, I can explain that in two sentences. The educated middle class has always trivialised fashion as something frivolous.

Without the Second World War, Berlin would probably have utilised the flow of the 1920s and developed into what Paris is today. However, I can’t always look for reasons in the past; I can’t waste my time on that. I would rather be a part of what shapes the future of the creative industries. The timing is perfect.

Let us take football as an example. If we hadn’t invested in the younger generation, we wouldn’t be world champions now. Currently we have more young fashion enthusiasts than ever. Why? Because social media makes fashion, styles, and looks omnipresent. Instagram, Facebook, YouTube, blogs, etc. - fashion has never been so accessible and we didn’t have these advertising means. We live in a selfie culture.

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dent to consider fashion as part of everyday life, just like Karl Lagerfeld once wished for. The opportunities for fashion companies have never been greater than now to win these people over and utilise their impact. I really don’t understand anyone who lets this chance pass them by.

Which perspectives do these young people really have?

AT: They can be part of the fashion world, be seen, and be taken seriously.

So how can we get politicians to commit to fashion as a German cultural asset?

CA: We need proactive lobbying that ultimately leads to a change in awareness. This is one of Fashion Council Germany’s main objectives.

How will the Council do this?

CA: The Council will present its next steps at the Fashion Week.

Let me ask differently. Which components do you need to achieve this?

CA: We need the right people and financial support. The Council consists of individuals who pull together and have proven that they are willing to fight for the cause. Anita Tillmann organises one of Germany’s most successful trade shows, while Marcus Kurz and Melissa Drier have been connected to the fashion business for 20 years.

The Council’s executive committee consists of credible experts, who have made outstanding contributions to German fashion and have now agreed to act in concert for the first time.

Naturally, the fashion industry has to follow suit, as should all institutions and companies in Germany, especially retailers and speciality stores.

Change is almost always

the result of a disaster. For instance, it took the glycol scandal for the Austrian wine industry to recognise that mass production is not the answer and to focus on quality.

CA: This is precisely the quality and potential we have in Germany. When we sift through the young designers for Vogue Salon, our youth development initiative, we see so much exceptional talent worth promoting.

They have real market potential.

Naturally, the ultimate goal is economic success. I can feature a collection I find remarkable in my magazine, but that’s only half the battle won if my reader then can’t find it in the stores.

Does one need to start during training?

CA: Most certainly! Due to the university reform, fashion students can now obtain a bachelor degree in six semesters and leave college. That is way too early. I used to see great talent graduating from the University of Arts, but, in comparison, I believe that there is still something missing after six semesters. In my opinion, the students are simply not ready for a career as a fashion designer.

So there is a qualitative difference in international comparison?

CA: Absolutely. We need to ensure during training that the graduates can actually compete on an international level. I believe we need to be much more focused in terms of education and encouragement. Today, it is no longer enough to be able to draw a beautiful dress. It is all about getting that dress into the stores. We look at the successful concepts of the BFC (British Fashion Council) and the CFDA

“L’art pour l’art only has very limited validity in the fashion world.”

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“During many conver­ sations, I have the feeling that the retail industry is focused on now and tends to look back.” – Christiane Arp (Council of Fashion Designers of America). Their programmes only start after training. Even a graduate from the Central Saint Martin’s College is coached for another two years in a support programme, mainly because designers are often not ready to establish their own labels after graduating. We will only have commercially successful German designers when all these aspects fall into place.

And now we’ve returned to the subject of money. Everybody wants improvement, but, when it comes to financing, the question is who supplies the funds.

AT: The best case scenario is that economy and politics work together. I don’t think that the Council will have trouble gaining access to those two fields. On the contrary, there is real interest.

The creative industries have real economic value on a European level and the process of globalisation has changed perceptions completely. Germany cannot escape this development and it won’t. The business world is fully aware of the fact that only outstanding young talent can secure competitiveness and, thus, the future.

CA: In political terms, fashion is certainly far down the list of topics worthy of subsidising. This is exactly what we want to change and we will do just that. After all, we have a really credible story to tell.

Fashion retailers need credible stories to pass on to their customers. This is one of the most important distinctive elements they still have.

CA: Retailers need to learn to listen to the story carefully. In the past, the city was the limit.

That has changed. Today, the world is open. I can shop globally online. The retail industry often underestimates its customers and forgets how important it is to surprise them. When I visit my favourite store, I want to be sure that I will discover something new.

AT: It is particularly important to involve the employees in the stores. They need to know the stories. Today, we need product identification to secure a sale.

Otherwise it doesn’t work. Story­ telling can only be successful if the entire chain is credible - from the designer to the sales assistant.

So ultimately it’s also about supplying the retail industry with new, modern, and surprising stories?

CA: The basic idea of Berliner Mode Salon, which celebrated its premiere in Berlin this January, was to create a meeting place for designers and retailers, thereby lifting the idea of our Vogue Salon beyond the young talent aspect to a higher level. We wanted to ensure that German designers, who don’t or no longer present their creations in the tent of the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, are still seen - for a few hours in a concentrated setting targeted at specialised retailers.

Naturally, I was aware that no retailer would come and order an entire collection. The aim was to afford the designers a chance to tell their story. What I see as a real success is that Petra Fladenhofer, the managing director of KaDeWe, was so excited by the

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last Berliner Mode Salon that she has agreed to showcase the designers in the front shop window throughout July. The designers’ current collections will also be available to buy in KaDeWe’s atrium. That’s exactly the arc that is so important. It just takes someone to make the first step.

The success of your commitment is therefore ultimately determined by commercial success?

AT: That’s, at least, a very important factor. L’art pour l’art only has very limited validity in the fashion world. The opportunity is to offer our globalised society of travellers something that they cannot obtain elsewhere.

It is therefore essential for the German retail industry to offer and promote local designers. It is our responsibility to present new collections to the retailers. We also need to shoulder a part of the risk. We do this by preselecting our range - at both the Premium trade show and Berliner Mode Salon. That’s part of the aforementioned credibility.

When retailers decide to drop an established brand and are willing to pass on revenue volume to a young designer, then they are taking a risk. This is exactly where the Fashion Council Germany steps in. When retailers know that the young designer is backed by us, and that we are willing to promote, support, and communicate the newcomer’s efforts, then that is a compelling reason to give the young designer a real chance. The confidence of

the retail industry in an institution such as the Fashion Council - and the driving forces behind it - is truly essential. For exactly this reason, we involved retailers at a very early stage in order to exchange views and analyse their problems at hand.

We’re talking about the importance of young talent, and the need to promote it as best we can, almost continuously. This is a particularly hot topic for the retail industry.

CA: The question is whether the retail industry really sees the need for it. At Vogue we need to deal with tomorrow on a daily basis. Our slogan “Before it’s in fashion, it’s in Vogue” is more valid than ever. During many conversations, I have the feeling that the retail industry is focused on now and tends to look back.

If customers like this particular jacket, it makes sense to order it again next season. However, the world will never remain the way it is in this very second.

Nevertheless, some choose to remain in the now. It’s simply not enough today.

AT: The problem regarding qualified young people in the retail industry has many facets. It has a lot to do with the perspectives perceived by a young person.

Money plays a part, but the perspective and the identification with the company are crucial.

Leadership style, employee motivation, and respect play a major part too.

I always advocate the idea of bringing the entire team even the trainee - to the trade

“The business world is fully aware of the fact that only outstanding young talent can secure competitiveness and, thus, the future.”

– Anita Tillmann 315 style in progress

“Those who only allow their own perspective prevent progress.” – Christiane Arp shows and to accept the new input that brings.

CA: Absolutely. If I produced Vogue alone and only showed my personal taste, it would be incredibly dull.

That’s a beautiful statement…

CA: In all seriousness, I believe it’s essential to also view the world through the eyes of my young employees. I am the eye of the needle and that is something I am not allowed to be afraid of. However, I need to see everything before I can decide what we send out into the world and what not. Maybe the typical bow I often use for my styling ideas is an emblematic example.

That’s how I like it. But if I use all those bows in the fashion productions of Vogue, it wouldn’t be particularly surprising. Those who only allow their own perspective prevent progress.

In which respect does the development of the Fashion Council Germany need political support?

AT: Basically it boils down to the question to which extent the creative industries are perceived as an economic factor. How far can a politician push the issue?

If it can be measured in any way at all, that is. Politicians become vulnerable when they stand up for something that is not well-founded. Thus, our goal must be to ensure that the topic and its economic relevance are noticed. The trade shows in Berlin have proven their success and created a measurable basis.

Now it’s time to take advantage of the opportunity to talk about Germany’s creative scene.

Politicians are aware of this, at least in the context of what is feasible. Again, it’s primarily about trust, which the Council

needs to build among politicians first. Until now, nobody has actually stood up and demanded something from politicians with a specific goal. I would also like to ask our press to promote what we have. Stop moaning about what doesn’t work; write about what is working and what options we have. You have to open the door before someone can walk through it.

Aren’t you worried that the topic could become too elitist?

CA: To be honest, I’m a bit of a one-track specialist. I have been involved in the fashion world for my entire career…

Now that’s quite a headline…

AT: They use the term nerd these days!

To stick to the analogy from earlier, Jogi Löw spent his entire life in the world of football.

CA: I take that as a compliment.

But isn’t it a truly wonderful idea to be able to say that I have helped a few talents make their way to the forefront of the international fashion scene? That’s sufficient as a vision. Let’s return to Jogi Löw. He had millions of assistant coaches, but the “nerd” got the job done in the end. The world needs people who really deal with specific matters in depth. What’s elitist about being really good at something?

Following the recent rocket start, what are the next steps of the Fashion Council Germany?

CA: The 9th, 10th, and 11th of July 2015 in Berlin…

082 WHAT'S THE STORY Fashion+politics

Partner, not Scapegoat Why fashion needs politics…

An opinion piece by Stephan Huber

I

t’s no use sugar-coating it. The fashion industry has experienced a very tough last year. This is confirmed by the sales figures, the market sentiment, and the many personal conversations in recent months. Interestingly, the problem analysis was largely congruent in all the aforementioned conversations: *The radically changed competition situation (not caused solely by e-retailing) *Way too many products on the market *(Perceived) constant sales *High write-offs *Dwindling customer frequency in stores *Explosion of rental fees, mostly - but not exclusively - in prime locations *Increasingly monotonous shopping streets and city centres *Comparable and therefore boring product ranges *Staff and recruiting *The (emotional) needs of customers that largely ignore seasonal rhythms All these issues are perfectly valid and may seem, at first glance, like Sisyphus tasks. At second glance, however, they reveal themselves as Herculean tasks, to remain within the realm of Greek mythology. This means the tasks are manageable, but only by means of superhuman

315 style in progress

force. One could be tempted to expand the analogy even further and point out that Hercules completely destroyed his livelihood before he was forced to face his twelve challenges. But that would be a bit too pedantic, I suppose. We now need to look ahead. After all, “superhuman force” is exactly what the fashion industry and specialised retailers in particular - needs to face its challenges. A demigod won’t get the job done for us, I’m afraid. However, human beings created a rather cunning solution for challenges - especially the ones that overextend the power of the individual - in their earliest evolutionary stages. The solution is forming a community! The list above can definitely not be processed with a lone warrior attitude. I have always found the long-bearded joke about the individual retailer acting individually infinitely daft, even though it isn’t completely devoid of a certain truth. The politicians need to be a part of this community. The social and economic system in which we all live and operate - which is, by the way, the only system that passed the practical test despite all the appropriate and necessary criticism - relies on politicians who are aware of their role as proactive shapers of both the present and, above all, the future. The system relies just as much on individuals, companies, and interest groups that demand such a proactive role from the politicians. It is simply not enough to bemoan the lack of shaping in many areas; one has to point out the needs and stand behind one’s own causes with confidence.

Whether it boils down to highly pragmatic issues such as open Sundays and a return to regulated clearance sales, or even to enormous future issues such as the function/functionality of cities and the raising of awareness for the societal importance of the fashion industry as a whole, every solution requires a trusting, collaborative cooperation with the political world. There is - to use the words of Angela Merkel - “no alternative”.

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Fashion is Politics.

Is Fashion Politics?

Who in the fashion industry actually cares about politics? And do politicians care about the fashion industry? style in progress asked decision makers from the retail sector, the industry itself, and the distribution side for their wish list for regional, national, and European politicians. Lo and behold, the list of demands is long.

Text: Kay Alexander Plonka, Nicoletta Schaper.

Illustrations: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler

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WHAT'S THE STORY 085

Is Fashion Politics? statements

Act Local, Think Global

“For me, fashion needs politics once I have decided to globalise my brand.

Then, at the latest, regulations, which apply to more than one country, become important for healthy and fair competition. The most important issue in the coming years will be that companies, regardless of which country they come from, can be equal, competitive partners in the respective market, with the same tax rules for all countries and, consequently, the same costs for all. Italy’s fiscal policy and infrastructure make business more difficult. The system is also prone to corruption, which obviously slows down economic growth. Never­ theless, my motto is “Act local and think global”. This principle suits a brand that has its roots in its Italian homeland, but can operate globally.”

Stefano Colombo, marketing manager at Colmar Originals

More Flexible Opening Hours

“A relaxation of regulations regarding store opening hours would be desirable. E-commerce in particular has changed consumer behaviour fundamentally. It is, of course, not feasible for stationary retailers to implement the 24h shopping experience that online retailers offer. However, more flexible opening hours would certainly help in terms of supporting the sales of stationary retailers. Moreover, it would also refocus the consumers’ attention on the shopping experience itself.” Gerrit Schweisfurth, managing

director of Milestone Sportswear

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Cultural Asset 086 WHAT'S THE STORY

Is Fashion Politics? statements

“In countries such as France or Italy, fashion is perceived as an important cultural asset. When fashion is respected as a cultural asset, politics can make a lot of things happen. I have great respect for Pitti Florence, which is supported by the state. Nothing is left to chance in ensuring that it remains the trade show venue for the most wonderful products from Italy and all over the world. The Italians stick together. They don’t let anything tamper with their Pitti and have managed to establish the Pitti as an internationally respected venue.

In Barcelona, we experienced similar goodwill with our Bread & Butter event.

The mayor of Barcelona, as well as the prime minister of Catalonia, came out to welcome our guests. While we didn’t receive any financial support, they afforded us many other opportunities. We were allowed to stage our Welcome Party in Palau Nacional, which was once a residence of the royal family and now houses the National Museum of Catalonian Art. There were certain conditions, of course, but they let us use the building. For our kickoff event in December 2004, we were allowed to use Mies van der Rohe’s Ger­ man Pavilion, which is my favourite building. That would be unthinkable in Germany. Barcelona even started up the large fountain in front of the Palau Nacional in January instead of April, just for the Bread & Butter. The city also hung up our campaign banners in the streets at its own expense. That inspired the entire city; the retailers decided against “sale” signs and opted for decorating their shop windows with new products instead. The news­ papers printed pages of reports about the event too. This is how Barcelona welcomed its international guests.

In Germany, however, fashion is sadly not perceived as a cultural asset, but as a business. When Klaus Wowereit spoke out in favour of Berlin as a fash­ ion location and the Tempelhof as the venue for the Bread & Butter, he was branded as a party mayor and additionally punished by the voters. Hardly anyone in politics understands that Wowereit’s personal commitment and his open approach is what made it possible for Berlin to become a fashion location. The fashion shows have brought a considerable amount of money into the city over the last twelve years and have transformed Berlin into an internationally acclaimed lifestyle metropolis. However, we don’t get any support from politicians. On the contrary, we are experiencing a headwind of sorts. Our lease has been - and still is - a controversial issue since 2009.

The exhibition company of the state of Berlin developed a counter-event, thereby entering into direct competition with the established trade shows.

Thus, the competition in Berlin intensified. This means we are missing valua­ ble opportunities. France and Italy benefit greatly from that, which is already clearly visible. Exhibitors and visitors are turning their attentions elsewhere.

This is very sad for Berlin, because I believe such behaviour jeopardises Berlin’s image as a fashion metropolis.” Karl-Heinz Müller,

managing director at Bread & Butter

Fixed Price Reduction Phases

“The desirability and attraction of fashion and clothing has been lost in many cases. Permanent, year-round price reductions have systematically made our products worth less and less. Over the last few years, we have taught our customers that they don’t need to buy anything at a regular price. The long-term effect, namely the disdain for clothing per se, is even worse. The exaggerated, aggressive price marketing over many seasons is the main reason for the current indifference of customers in respect of the fashion retail industry. There is an urgent need for legislative intervention. We need to return to regulated price reduction phases (as is the practice in many neigh­ bouring European countries).

One of our customers from Northern Germany tried to reduce the prices in winter as late as January. He told us that he generated more revenue at a lower cost of sales. I believe that the volume of merchandise on the sales floor will return to a normal level, once we can no longer lower prices when­ ever we want.

We need more price regulations, but more freedom in terms of opening hours. We should be free to decide whether we want to open on Sundays.

Exemptions that allow Sunday shopping have already proven to be highly successful. Families have time to go shopping on Sundays. Why should they not be allowed to? In this respect, online retailing still has a clear advantage.

To preserve the variety within the textile retail industry, we need such chang­ es urgently. The attractiveness of city centres, as well as fashion as a whole, should not continue to decline even more.” Dominik Meuer,

owner of Die Hinterhofagentur

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Freedom Isn’t Everything

WHAT'S THE STORY 087

Is Fashion Politics? statements

“In the past, the clearance sale periods were regulated. The stores were only allowed to reduce prices within those periods and if you wanted to reduce prices earlier due to a shop remodelling, you had to get approval first. That system may have been fraught with difficulties, but in all hon­ esty, I’d like to see it return. Fashion needs politics again. If all parties are allowed to do whatever they want, we will soon only have the large retail concepts and mono-label stores. The smaller multi-brand retailers will be swept away, with the result that the city centres will become deserted.

The market has changed radically; the change has been accelerated by the rapid development of web stores. Those who live in the countryside don’t need to travel into the city anymore. Everything is available online and can be sent back easily, even after two to three weeks. I think it would be highly appropriate to introduce legally binding rules that regu­ late the competition in a fair and universal manner. This would mean that we have times during which we can sell at regular conditions and thus earn money. Even though I have always been - and still am - in favour of freedom, this kind of competition comes at the expense of market diver­ sity, meaning that it, in turn, comes at the expense of us all.”

Evelyn Hammerström, managing director at Jades and More Jades / Düsseldorf

Rules, Not Chaos

“I see the future of cities at risk if the respective governments continue to advo­ cate large retail spaces on green-field sites indiscriminately. This weakens city centres significantly. Instead, the city fathers should sit down at a table with the merchants and discuss how the city centres can be made more attractive to guar­ antee excitement for consumers. There is no excitement when you see the same brands in every city and even in outlets. How many cities still have their local heroes such as Dallmeyer Munich or Garhammer Waldkirchen, for which consum­ ers are willing to drive into the city explicitly? Many towns have systematically ruined it for themselves. This process includes that lovely little café that had to close down because it was impossible to earn the rental fee with coffee and cake.

Change can only come through politics. Some things simply don’t work without laws. If we would navigate through traffic as we please, there would, after all, be pure chaos everywhere.” Michael Brockmann, managing director

at The Heritage Agents

Subsidise and Promote

“The future is shaped where the creative minds work. Politicians create the framework. Thus, politics can support the fashion industry in terms of starting new labels, subsidising studios and jobs, and promoting young talent by awarding scholarships and financial rewards. The fashion indus­ try needs politics, mainly because a country like Germany needs to an­ chor its education and fashion industry in the competitive global market.”

Prof. Dr. Ekkehart Baumgartner, management board member at AMD Akademie Mode & Design

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088 WHAT'S THE STORY

Is Fashion Politics? statements

Over-Regulated

“Naturally, sustainability and honesty are terms that still need to grow on our conscience and subsequently be reflected in our actions. Regulations are equally important to ensure that both humans and the environment are not exploited. The question is whether we have already found the right way to enforce these regulations. We must avoid a new lobby created by test institutes, which could inflate production prices artificially with expensive certification procedures. We believe it is important to ensure that the framework conditions are adapted to the respective production countries and the equipment of the local production facilities. In reputable businesses, it should be possible to increase productivity temporarily through adequate­ ly remunerated overtime during the textile industry’s classic peak season. Especially the piece workers are in favour of such models, because they can earn more money. However, overtime and multiple-shift operation are often hampered by a generalised perception on the certification side. The focus, however, should always be on the question what really benefits the environment, the processes, and, most of all, the people.” André Berger,

managing director at Handstich

Transparency in Demand

“Of course we need politics; we couldn’t make fashion without it! Today, fashion pro­ duction is a truly global business, but the label doesn’t always reveal where an item is actually produced. For me, politicians have the obligation to make the production chain more transparent, not only for a luxury shirt made in Italy, but also for a discount shirt made in Sri Lanka. We do not only need to insure transnational standards for free trade, but also for ethical working conditions and fair wages. The respective countries need to work together to achieve this. Even though the clothing industry in Germany is large and generates a considerable amount of money, it has no lobby and no po­ litical influence. I have also never heard about the EU raising the issue of production conditions in the clothing industry. However, this issue is really just as important as climate change or the food industry.

I myself come from Sri Lanka, where there are many cheap production facilities.

I know what I am talking about. My label produces in Italy, where I can assume that all sewers enjoy reasonable working conditions and receive a reasonable salary.

However, this should not be a privilege reserved exclusively for high-end fashion.”

Ignatious Joseph, managing director at Ign. Joseph

Ecological Assessment

“We are so concerned about how we can protect the environment and prevent waste. The current issue is whether one should be allowed to use plastic bags.

The EU wants to ban plastic bags, which is actually a good decision. At the same time, we all stand by and watch how the booming online retailers send 100,000 parcels out into the world. Ten pairs of shoes are sent from Munich to Berlin, but nine of them are returned to the sender. The freight companies are happy and vast amounts of packaging materials are used. This is utter madness from an environmental point of view. How sustainable does that, in comparison, make the stationary retail industry?” Matthias Schwarte, managing

director at Agentur Schwarte

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090 WHAT'S THE STORY

Is Fashion Politics? statements

Brussels, We Have a Problem!

“Anyone who looks at the current exchange rates will notice with horror how weak the Euro is against the Chinese Yuan or US Dollar at times. One will also notice how the Swiss Franc has manifested itself against the Euro on the currency mar­ ket since its unfreezing. In summary, I would base my sentiment on the memora­ ble radio message from the movie Apollo 11: Brussels, we have a problem!

What do I mean by that? Let us consider the so-called value chain; for simplicity, from the perspective of a technical (sports) clothing company based in Germany with the EU countries as its core market. Let’s assume that the brand is posi­ tioned in the mid to upper price segment and sees China as its preferred source for fabrics. While the material for an order of jackets cost 200,000 Euros at the end of the year, it currently costs 230,000 Euros. That is an increase of 15%, caused by the exchange rate differences alone. This price increase would fall back on our example brand, mainly because the order has been invoiced and the retailer evidently has no room for further price hikes. Consequently, the curren­ cy-related cost increase for our example brand, which calculates its mark-up based on the FOB price, would erode its already slim margin even more.

The result is as easy to foresee as it is uncomfortable. Unless the currency markets calm down quickly and the Euro ends it rapid descent, our brand will ex­ perience a painful awakening sometime in August, when the cost-intensive winter products are en route to Europe in containers and the invoices of the suppliers are due. These bills need to be paid somehow.

It is obvious that this problem crosses sector boundaries and does not only affect Europe. All European brands that buy raw materials and produce in other EU countries, will face lower margins due to current exchange rate developments. All partners in the value chain have to cope with that, if they are able to.

That’s why I think it’s time to send a very urgent radio message to Brussels and to hope that our EU politicians understand the signs of the times and respond ac­ cordingly. Thanks to the Greek dilemma. a timely stabilisation and strengthening of the Euro is probably an illusion. This is why I see no other option than to tem­ porarily reduce - or even suspend - the European import tariffs on commodities from Asia until the storm caused by the descent of the Euro has been weathered.

Therefore, I believe our industry needs the politicians more than ever! Without political intervention, the air for all European brands, that develop and design products in Europe, but produce in Asia utilising materials from non-EU countries, will become even thinner. Given the results of the last two winters, the air may become too thin for some…” Gerhard Flatz, managing director at

KTC Ltd. / Hong Kong

Fashion = Economic Factor

“Coco Chanel once said: ‘Fashion is not something that only exists in clothing. Fashion is in the air and on the street. Fashion is all about ideas, the way we live, and what happens.’ What has this got to do with politics? Certainly a lot, especially as fashion doesn’t only stand for individuality, creativity, and inspiration. Fashion is also an important economic factor with sales in the billions and is extremely globalised. Therefore it makes sense to establish certain conditions and binding rules for all. These rules can only be defined, specified, and ultimately controlled by politics. I believe these aspects are particularly important for all areas concerning work­ place safety and environmental protection. Even issues like resource management, as in the case of leather for instance, are becoming decisions that fall into the realm of political influence. The globalisation of the fashion industry can make it difficult to find a sensible common denominator for all involved par­ ties. Ultimately, we should also not forget the actual idea behind fashion.” Kirstin Deutelmoser,

managing director at GDS & tag it!

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Non-Bureaucratic Framework

WHAT'S THE STORY 091

Is Fashion Politics? statements

“We would like to see politics establish a framework that allows entrepreneurs to achieve growth by shaping their future with as little red tape as possible, for example by implementing trade agreements that facilitate expansion into new markets or protect “Swissness”. The latter clearly defines our positioning and safeguards Switzerland’s reputation as a manufacturing location.”

Marcel Hossli, Zimmerli of Switzerland

Ethically Correct

“Politicians must create the framework for ethical working conditions, on a worldwide basis.

We need an authority that monitors the working conditions in production facilities. We need an authority for a quality seal that can act independently of all private interests. The industry itself cannot provide this, mainly because the price pressure is too high in general. We are quick to point the finger at Primark, Kik, and other retailers of that kind, but the price is ultimately also a decisive factor in the high-end fashion segment. Many certificates fall short, which can be seen in the ongoing discussions regarding down feathers, fur, and even the meat industry. Of­ ten the entire production chain is incomprehensible, even though a consistent and complete review of processes would be so important. I also don’t believe that ethical awareness has reached the consumers. The consumers may be horrified by a collapsed high-rise building in Bangladesh, but they will still only pay 2 Euros for a T-shirt, even if they have more money to spare. Who else, if not politics, can be the ethical authority in this respect?” Michael

Schulz, managing director at Aco Germany

The Correct Approach

“What can the state do for the fashion industry? Many may be tempted to call for more business development funds. I myself am not a fan of state subsidies. First of all, such subsidies are always spread too thinly. Secondly, one has to take the bureaucratic effort to receive subsidies into account. We’d rather invest our energy in other areas and do what is necessary on our own.

For me, two other points are far more important than subsidies. We really need to try and improve the professional image of sales staff. The image of the profession is not particularly good, despite it being such a diverse job. Selling fashion has a lot to do with psychology and offers an opportunity to work closely with the customers.

The job does not only require commercial knowledge, but also a sense and feel for the customers’ needs. In addition, it requires a sense of style, aesthetic sensitivity, and creativity when it comes to decorating shop windows. Furthermore, web shops have added a completely new level of demands. The state and the industry cham­ bers need to work together to improve the training levels, mainly to ensure that the profession becomes more interesting for young people with A-levels. That would be a real help for businesses like ours.

The second issue is that we need more stringent control mechanisms in terms of the origin of goods. As a company that produces regionally, i.e. in Germany, Austria, and Italy, we attach great importance to the origin of our products. The question for us is: Does a product “Made in Italy” really mean it’s from Italy, or does it really mean it’s from Romania or Turkey? Which pollutants do the products contain?

Under which conditions for humans, animals, and the environment were the fibres, fabrics, and furs produced? And how do all the imitations sneak their way into our internal market? Black sheep jeopardise our business and tarnish our credibility.

That’s why I’d like to see more control mechanisms and greater protection for au­ thentic designs. This approach would be real economic development.”

Kaspar Frauenschuh, owner of Frauenschuh

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Regulation of Clearance Sales 092 WHAT'S THE STORY

Is Fashion Politics? statements

“When the reform of the law against unfair competition took effect on the 3rd of July 2004, thereby toppling the regulation of clearance sales in the retail industry, it initiated a development that damaged the clothing sector to a significant extent and kick-started an ailing system. Ever since, wrong discount timing, as well as delivery dates that have become hopelessly out of sync, are driving both retailers and manufacturers out of business. Seasonal products are reduced in price be­ fore the respective climatic seasons have even started yet. And the seasons are pushed back as it is by the climate change. The core sales periods for customers who purchase out of requirement are counteracted, which means the retail indus­ try harms itself by reducing prices too early. The initially predicted profit margins cannot be achieved anymore and the write-offs determine the profits.

Thus, the manufacturers come under massive pressure in terms of supply and price. In addition, the consumer - now a trained bargain hunter - has got used to discounts and is no longer willing to pay the regular price for a product.

Consumers now even demand price reductions from the retailers. Premature discounts also cause, among other issues, premature delivery cycles. This means that one can find summer blouses on the sales floor when there are sub-zero temperatures outside, as well as down jackets when the temperature soars to summer levels. This is simply absurd! Of course, one must distinguish between fashionable and requirement-driven customers. However, the decisive point is that the fashionable customer would also buy the winter jacket in the desired colour and size in August, if that particular product was only available then! The retailers in tourist areas depend on seasonal trade, so they are an exception. They need the products earlier than others. Retailers on Sylt - or in Salzburg and Kitzbühel - need the products as early as possible in order to be able to supply the tourists accordingly. Naturally, the manufacturing industry needs to react to this with practical services. The delivery cycles and discount timings are completely out of joint. Only a few retailers respond with reason and counteract this development. Only very few actually have the power to fight back. Everyone wants to be the first to stock new products and everyone feels the urge to be the first to offer discounts. Everyone is afraid of not keeping up with the competition. What an absurdity! Soon we will overtake ourselves and start selling the summer collections for the following year in August this year!

In answer to neoliberalism, we strongly believe that there has to a certain level of regulation - across the EU and by the EU administration - to steer the textile retailing trade in the right direction and to protect the industry from allowing pathological development and imbalance to progress even further.”

Melanie and Dirk Nienaber, owners of Marlino

Uniform Regulations

“I would like to see politics impose stricter regulations on certain sectors of the industry, especially in terms of the reintroduction of regulated clearance sale periods. Currently, goods are reduced in price at will and, in some cas­ es, way too early in the season. Even though December is the economically strongest month of the year for winter goods due to the Christmas shopping period, some retailers start reducing prices as early as November. For us, this means that some of the new collections need to be delivered significant­ ly earlier to ensure adequate regular sales periods. In practice this means that highly fashionable spring merchandise needs to be, as sometimes requested by buyers, delivered as early as November or December. This often poses a problem for many suppliers. Extremely early price reductions, especially in the online retailing segment, would be off the table once uni­ form regulations are introduced.

The same applies to an introduction of uniform regulations in terms of na­ tional customs duties, tariffs, and agreements. It is time to define bounda­ ries for today’s discount mentality and to ensure that all well-known textile discounters have fewer opportunities to continuously undermine human rights in India, or any other manufacturing nation, in pursuit of even cheaper production options. They do all this for the sole purpose of remaining ‘com­ petitive’ and being able to offer jeans at a retail price of 15 Euros. The only way to ensure fair competition is to make sure that the same import/export rules apply to all parties and to create homogeneous starting conditions.”

Ilya Morgan, owner of Deluxe Distribution 315 style in progress

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094 WHAT'S THE STORY

Is Fashion Politics? statements

More Support & More Influence

“The future of the specialised retail industry in large cities remains a major problem. Every city is like the next: fashion and discount chains define the urban landscape. Owner-managed retailers are finding it increasingly difficult to stand their ground, mainly due to exorbitant rental fees and poor infrastructure. It would be desirable to increase the support for medium-sized and “start-up” fashion companies.

More public sector influence in certain areas would be equally desirable: more flexible opening hours to increase the competition for online retailers, for instance.

It would also be important to make the customs system for retailers and wholesal­ ers less difficult. Goods from non-European countries should be subject to higher tariffs, an approach some countries have already chosen. We need to ensure that the “Handmade in Europe” label is a higher priority than it is now.

It would also be important to revive the city centres even more by increasing the variety of sectors, in combination with more options in terms of gastronomy and culture activities. The trend to utilise city centres as residential areas, which has already begun, is a further aspect of future downtown revitalisation.”

Matthias Scho, managing director at SchoShoes

Healthy Sector Mix

“We need politics for tasks such as the monitoring of product ranges relevant to city centre areas. Even Waldshut is regularly approached by large retailers, outlets, and shopping centre operators who want to push ahead with a green-field project. To date, the mayor and the ruling party have made a point of not approving any projects that dis­ turb the balance of the inner city. They are aware of the fact that an attractive city centre needs a functioning retail structure. This is one of the reasons why we have a healthy mix of sectors, which, in turn, draws the customers into the city to visit fashion stores, the two local bakeries and butchers, the photo and flower store, and the two excellent cafés, which produce their cakes and chocolates themselves. This is a small town one can easily fall in love with! To preserve the status-quo, politicians must establish clear rules. No city centre can ever benefit from seeing customer frequency and purchasing power being redirected to green-field projects. If you follow this train of thought further, such a redirection does not only harm the retailers in the city centre, but also the arti­ sans and the service sector, which is heavily dependent on local trade. All these factors are not given enough importance in many German and Austrian cities. All the more we need to rely on governments, state governments, and municipalities to push ahead with appropriate concepts, but unfortunately many have no concept at all.” Thomas

Wartner, managing director at Stulz Mode : Genuss : Leben

Reliable Framework

“In principle, I would like to see less political intervention. In a market econo­ my, politicians need to provide a framework that is reliable and constant. In my opinion, our legislation in terms of opening hours is a good example. Stationary retailers need to - with a few exceptions - close shop on Sunday. However, you can always sell online, 24/7. In my view, that’s a huge distortion of competition.

In addition, I wish for policies that are more downtown-friendly. We need to see the ‘marketplace’ strengthened, but it must also be made more accessible.”

Thomas Ganter, managing director of L+T Lengermann + Trieschmann 315 style in progress

WHAT'S THE STORY 095

Is Fashion Politics? statements

Fair Competition

“In the creative field, fashion should remain completely self-sufficient - that much is clear. Provocative advertising campaigns are a form of free speech and should not be subject to any regulations whatsoever. In terms of tax policy, however, I would like to see a very clear rule that ensures companies pay their taxes where they earn their profits. This is the only way to ensure fair competition between all market participants. In addition, I am also absolutely in favour of a regulation of price reduction phases, as they exist in some neighbouring countries. This also applies to online retailing!

The introduction of clearly defined time periods during which price reductions are allowed exclusively, would make it easier for consumers to compare the individual retailers. The psychological effect of the almost continuous sales battles should not be underestimated. Over the last few years, many customers have completely lost the ability to recognise a good price-performance ratio. The same applies to the will­ ingness to pay a higher price for better quality. The aware­ ness of quality and sustainability would definitely rise once the discount phases have been regulated. As for city centre revitalisation, there is definitely a need for political interven­ tion. It is important to find a way to counteract the gradual ‘impoverishment’ of the inner cities and to offer the consum­ ers an appealing mix of individual, interesting retailers. In terms of property leases, this seems impossible to achieve without political influence. It would be good to form commit­ tees in which urban developers and retailers work together to ensure that an independent urban character can be restored.

Apart from a healthy mix of tenants, we need other innova­ tive approaches such as free inner city parking, which would definitely be a step in the right direction and is a development that can be influenced by politicians.” Oliver Beuthien,

CEO of Wormland

Save City Centres

“In principle, I don’t have a lot of time for politics. Too often something needs to happen before anyone even considers making a change. Reaction is more likely to secure a majority than being proactive. It would be nice if politicians would, at least, respond to the grievances in the city centres. During the process of urban planning, one should give more consideration to the needs of the stationary retail industry. It’s very sad to see the number of specialised stores dwindle. This doesn’t just apply to the fashion retailers, but also to book and dry goods retailers. The situation in the city centres is of course not the only hurdle that classic retailers need to take, but it is an area that politics could influence significantly.

Only vertically integrated suppliers can still afford prime locations. This means that the city centres become deserted, first in respect to content and then in the word’s literal sense. The situation in the US clearly illustrated the ultimate effect of this development. The trend is supported by a large number of shopping malls that seem to have the identical product range worldwide. This might not be particularly noticeable in a large city, because the sheer size of the town leaves sufficient room for all business segments.

However, the degree of standardisation - and thus a certain level of regula­ tion - can be quite depressing in a small city.

And this is where the politicians should intervene, ensure a healthy urban landscape, and create humane city centres. This is not just an issue for the retail industry, but also causes a loss of life quality that affects every citizen.

But maybe that is just a certain nostalgic sentiment on my part. Maybe the modern citizen really wants to buy vegetables - organic or not - in a super­ market and really wants to purchase the next outfit at one of Germany’s top 10 textile outlets.” Thomas Martini, CEO at Bright Tradeshow style in progress 315

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The Fashion of the Nation Is fashion on the political agenda?

In Germany, where fashion has no strong and organised lobby, it still ails in the Nirvana of political perception. Other countries have, however, realised that the fashion industry creates jobs and that the seasonal spectacle surrounding the newest creations leads to positive knock-on effects. Furthermore, fashion con­sumption fuels the economy as a whole. The Italian state is currently supporting the fashion industry with no less than 260 million Euros of direct and indirect subsidies - per year!

Such state backing may not guarantee automatic success in the European and international arena, but it does guarantee a better starting position. style in progress explores political commitments to fashion - from Paris to Shanghai.

Text: Silke Bender, Petrina Engelke, Thesy Kness-Bastaroli, Kay Alexander Plonka, Quynh Tran. Illustrations: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler

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German Fashion - A Classification Problem Where does the German fashion industry stand? And where is it represented in the political world? This may sound like a fairly simple question, but the answer is, just like the federal structure of the German economy and political landscape, rather complicated.

One of the main reasons may be that the fashion industry is not particularly anchored in the public’s consciousness. Alfons Kaiser, the style editor of Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung, once described Germany as a “belated fashion nation” with an unerring penchant for pragmatism and unsuitable for something as emotional as fashion, meaning that it still needs to wake from its slumber.

And because German politics react even slower than the general public, it is difficult to locate fashion on the political radar. This is baffling because the fashion and textile industries, according to the Federal Statistical Office, employ 712,000 people, generate nearly 19 billion Euros in revenues, and the consumer market for clothing and shoes is worth no less than 68 billion Euros. This proves that the fashion and textile industries are an important economic branch in Germany, yet they are not adequately recognised and promoted.

The main problems at hand are the complexity of the industry and federalism. The fashion and textile industries include diverse segments such as haute couture, technical textiles, and home textiles, as well as diverse aspects such as production and retail and consumer goods markets.

The competence and production centres are spread out over the entire country. Fashion design is also part of the creative industry, while the textile industry is not.

Furthermore, the industry lacks an efficient and focused lobbying structure. The general association “Textil + Mode” consists of no less than 24 departmental and regional associations and is 315 style in progress

focused mainly on the (technical) textile industry, not so much on fashion. In January 2015, the foundation of the German Fashion Council (GFC), an advocacy association for fashion under the auspices of Vogue editor-in-chief

Christiane Arp, was announced, but it is still in the conceptualisation phase.

Fashion Awareness

“First of all, we need to create awareness for the fact that we can - and have to - pass on demands to political representatives. It is important to define what is needed at all levels, because the lack of promotion by the state is not ill will, but a classification problem. The fashion industry is not yet perceived as an industry branch in its own right. The political side does not know how to classify it, which consequently makes promotion difficult”, says Anita Tillmann, the managing director of the Premium trade show and co-founder of GFC. When she founded the Premium fashion show in Berlin in 2003, she received no additional funding apart from the start-up grant

that every business receives.

However, the times seem to be changing. Over the past ten years, an awareness for fashion as a potential economic factor has emerged, especially in Berlin.

Since 2007, Berlin’s senate department for economics, technology, and research subsidises the fashion industry with roughly 1 million Euros per year as part of the “Project Future” initiative. This covers communication measures for the Fashion Week, expert panels, the “Start

Your Fashion Business” award, coaching for fashion entrepreneurs, co-financing of trade fairs and fashion shows, and federal programmes for fashion-related companies via Investitionsbank Berlin (IBB). In April 2015, the Wearable IT/Fashion Technology award, endowed with 30,000 Euros to promote the future market of technical fashion, was advertised for the first time.

“The fashion industry - the Fashion Week in particular - has developed into a relevant economic factor in Berlin in recent years.

It generates sufficient value that also benefits business segments such as tourism and retail”, says Claus Pretzell, an economist at Investitionsbank Berlin and co-author of a study titled “Berlin Aktuell - Mode als wichtiger Wirtschaftsfaktor” (2011).

Thus, the growth of the creative industry is not only caused by

the appreciation of Berlin as a fashion and trade show location, but also by the competence strategy and the investments of the federal state Berlin.

If, however, one compares the state’s efforts with the key figures of the fashion industry, the government expenditure seems fairly unreasonable. The Fashion Week alone generates added value of 33 million Euros per season and, according to IBB, adds almost 17 million Euros to the public purse. The entire industry and its value chain with more than 3,700 fashion companies, 11,500 employees subject to social insurance, 15,300 permanent freelancers, and 10 fashion schools - generates 1.6 billion Euros in revenues per year. Based on employment and company figures, Berlin is the most important fashion location in Germany. Based on industry volume, it is the second largest behind Munich (with 2.3 million Euros added value).

By contrast, a reinvestment of 1 million Euros by the state seems like a mere trifle.

However, the programmes for young designers can be seen as a positive start. “The ‘Start Your Fashion Business’ award did help financially, if only seasonally.

Nevertheless, it did help in the sense that we had to sit down and think of a business plan and it provided coaching sessions, runway slots, and access to the Berlin Showroom”, says Perret Schaad’s Tutia Schaad, who was one of the first recipients in 2010 and whose fashion label is perceived as one of the most promising in Germany today.

The state seems eager to learn too: “Berlin is continuously expanding its promotion programme for the fashion industry by adding new instruments, for instance plans for securing industrial collaborations, as well as sales and distribution coaching by international experts. Expert juries decide which fashion labels deserve presentation slots, win the fashion award, and are allowed to participate in the Berlin Showroom. We now support selected fashion labels longer before they continue to evolve entirely on their own. Neither infinite funding, nor an overly broad base funding, would be sensible”, says Tanja Mühlhans,

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the creative industry representative within the senate department for economy, technology, and research.

Nevertheless, Marcus Kurz, the head of the creative agency Nowadays and co-founder of the GFC, believes there is need for action. “Currently, we only receive support in the youth development field. I don’t see a perceptible, holistic support

structure. Fashion is an important industry that needs to be developed further. There is no awareness in Germany, and subsequently in Berlin, as to what fashion actually is. We need a public and political commitment to the fashion industry in order to establish it as an efficient industry in the medium and long term. We need to work towards a vision with more purpose.”

It is well known that Berlin has only been a fashion location for slightly more than a decade and that it is still in the process of establishing itself as such.

It is equally well known that the political wheels can turn a little slower than others at times. One can merely hope that programmes such as “Project Future” will be beefed up in the future and that the GFC proves

to be a first step towards political integration. “However, grass doesn’t grow quicker if you pull it”, says Anita Tillmann. Some things simply need time.

is important to the Italian government correct?

importance of Italy as a production nation is the phenomenon of “reshoring”, which is a term that describes the relocation of production capacities to Italy.

The government has already helped the businesses with tax breaks, such as largely abolishing the IRAP corporate tax, and implementing the Jobs Act labour market legislation.

Italian Generosity Italy’s fashion industry - the textile and clothing sector - is expected to grow by 5 percent in 2015. Thus, the fashion industry will experience significantly more growth than the country’s gross domestic product (GDP), which the government expects to increase by 0.6 percent. Last year, the fashion sector grew by 3.3 percent to 53 billion Euros, while the GDP was still in decline. In short, the Italian textile and clothing industry will return to levels it last reached before the financial crisis that started in 2008. The only cloud on the horizon is the area of youth and children’s clothing, which experiences negative results in terms of foreign trade last year and in the first quarter of this year. The reason behind this is that this particular sector depends heavily on exports to Russia, which have been declining for months.

Exports, which contribute slightly more than 50 percent to overall sales, remain the main growth engine for Italy’s fashion industry. The domestic market, which has been in decline for the last five years, is currently also experiencing a turnaround. The 20 million visitors expected to attend the Milan Expo (1st of May to 3rd of October 2015) are likely to give the domestic market an additional boost. “The fashion industry has recently started to reclaim its status as the flagship of the Italian consumer products industry”, says Carlo Capasa, the newly appointed

president of the Camera della Moda. He also highlights the improving co-operation with other institutions. This year, the government intends to invest 40 million Euros in the internationalisation of the trade show system. Among other measures, the Milano Unica, a trade fair for fabrics, will receive 6.5 million Euros in subsidies. Milano Unica also plans to organise a trade show in New York for the first time. The ICE, which is the state institute for foreign trade, will supply the Micam Schoevent, an international footwear trade fair, with 2.4 million Euros.

In the INTERVIEW Raffaelo Napoleone

in his capacity as general director of the Pitti Immagine is one of the most important protagonists of the Italian trade show landscape.

The Italian state has always supported and encouraged its trade shows. Just last year, vice minister Carlo Calenda committed another 40 million Euros to the funding of fashion events. Is the impression that fashion

Ever since Matteo Renzi, the former mayor of Florence, became the head of our government, the fashion industry can breathe freely again. Even when Renzi was still the mayor of Florence, he recognised the importance of the fashion sector and the need to support the trade fairs in their internationalisation attempts.

How close are your political ties? Is it important that institutions such as the Pitti Immagine engage in dialogue with politicians?

As I said, the ties to politics have become “closer” since Renzi came into office (March 2014).

The dialogue with politicians is of primary importance to us.

Do you think Italian politicians do enough to ensure the continuity of Italy as a production nation?

The continuity of Italy as a production nation is guaranteed by a wide range of highly specialised small and medium-sized businesses. The best indicator for the

Which measures can one take to strengthen, protect, and further expand the Italian fashion industry?

Undoubtedly, additional tax relief could help companies.

Support for marketing and internationalisation, such as the ICE is currently offering, is equally useful. The Ministry of Industry recently appointed the Boston Consulting Group for a comparative study of the global fashion industry. Knowing the competitors is important for the expansion of our companies. In addition, the ICE has decided to support a unique initiative for Father’s Day (21st of June) in the US. The department store group Saks, namely its flagship style in progress 315

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store in the US and its 39 other branches, has made room for renowned Italian fashion brands in its shop windows and stores.

Father’s Day is known to be the start of the summer shopping season. A similar initiative has already proven successful with Isetan in Japan.

The Italian fashion industry is facing massive structural changes. More and more companies are closing down or moving abroad. What can politicians and the public sector do to help?

The Italian fashion industry is extremely energetic. Currently, we can see a contrasting trend to the production outsourcing of the past. An increasing number of fashion companies, especially those positioned in the high and top sector of the industry, are withdrawing production capacities abroad and returning to Italy. Prada is the best example. The reason for this trend is the high specialisation of Italian

craftsmen, which is beneficial for the quality of the products.

The demand for guaranteed quality goods is on the rise in the fashion and accessories sectors.

Furthermore, the production costs abroad, for example in China, have increased. Italy remains the clear leader in the luxury segment, in terms of fashion manufacturing, and in the textile and accessories sectors.

How important is it to support companies or trade shows directly? Does Italy offer such direct subsidies and are they, in your opinion, sufficient?

For the current year, the government has committed 260 million Euros to the “Made in Italy” campaign, whereby trade shows have been declared a priority. This is the highest sum to date. This is obviously a huge improvement. Trade shows are an important marketing tool for the fashion industry. The Pitti Immagine in Florence received

France Cementing Top Spot

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2 million Euros in financial support from the state last year; this year it received 2.3 million Euros.

Pitti Uomo to the men’s fashion shows of Milan.

How do you see the future of Italian fashion?

Joint national efforts or the sum of many individual initiatives - what is the current mood among and/or the understanding between the various institutions? Do you, for instance, communicate with other trade fair organisers and do you co-ordinate your initiatives?

I am optimistic and see favourable opportunities for growth.

The international competition is healthy. Italy holds a leading position in certain segments and has the potential to increase its lead even more. Undoubtedly, we are currently also profiting from the macroeconomic environment, such as the decrease of the Euro against the Dollar. The fashion exports have increased in the first quarter. Another factor is the monetary policy of the ECB, which makes it easier for medium-sized and small companies to borrow money. The reform policy of the government is also a welcome development.

Whenever you think of fashion, you automatically think of Paris. The French capital is almost synonymous with elegance and style. France is the number one, particularly in respect to the luxury segment with brands such as Chanel, Hermès, Luis Vuitton, Dior, and Saint Laurent. 130 of the 270 world’s most famous prestige brands are from France. Apart from haute couture, hardly any fashion is still manufactured in the country, but it is the home of the fashion world’s most important designers, marketers, and distributors. The French fashion industry employs 130,000 people and generates an annual revenue of approximately 34 billion Euros. This makes it one of the most important industries in France. In addition, the entire luxury segment which also includes food, gastronomy, perfumes, and jewellery - is the country’s strongest economic engine. Over the last 30 years, the luxury products industry increased its annual revenue tenfold to currently 40 billion Euros.

So much economic power is naturally well organised. The oldest industry association, namely the

“Fédération de la couture et du prêt-à-porter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode” (in short: “Mode à Paris”), was founded as early as 1868 and currently counts more than 100 members.

The employers’ association of the French fashion industry not only organises fashion shows, but also defines industrial quality standards and decides who or what is actually allowed to be called haute couture. Since 1927, the association also operates a Paris-based fashion school, which awards 40 designer diplomas each year. In 2011, the National Council of Industry established a specialised committee for fashion and luxury, which is located in the Ministry of Economy. The information pages of the Chamber of Industry and Commerce list approximately 25 different state aid funds, which are tasked to support designers and fashion specialists financially. Since 2012, France even boasts a “Banque de la Mode”, which was created to support young fashion entrepreneurs with inexpensive loans. Anne Hidalgo, the mayor of Paris, only recently promised the local fashion schools investments totalling 57 million Euros. Alongside the

The reality is that Italy’s fashion fairs sector is fragmented. Florence is responsible for men’s and children’s fashion, while Milan is responsible for women’s fashion.

Rome is striving to become a trade show location for young fashion designers, rather than be known for haute couture alone.

We are currently developing an integrated fashion system. For the first time, there will be a “fashion train” between Florence and Milan to take the fashion experts and buyers from the

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aforementioned, there is also the “Comité Colbert”, an association of manufacturers formed by 78 “maisons” (which is what the tradition-steeped French fashion houses call themselves). The “Comité Colbert”, founded in 1954, represents and promotes the French luxury products industry in the home market and 180 other countries.

In the INTERVIEW Elisabeth Ponsolle des Portes has been the general delegate of the Comité Colbert for the last twelve years.

Madame Ponsolle des Portes, is the great economic miracle that the French luxury products industry has experienced over more than three decades the result of private efforts or targeted government funding?

It is clearly the result of excellent organisation on the part of entrepreneurs. They came up with the right strategic response to shifts within the global economy.

For more than 30 years, the jobs in the labour intensive business segments have been increasingly

outsourced to countries with lower wage cost levels. Products manufactured in France were suddenly no longer competitive in the large mass market, which is solely defined by prices. Therefore, the medium-sized entrepreneurs within our association took the logical step to focus on the different aspects only we can offer: quality, know-how, and tradition. The focus is now on a “haute de gamme” production process. This was the only way to keep “Made in France” alive.

That was the first key to success.

In this respect, the French luxury products specialists made the same - and excellent - decision as the German vehicle industry: quality over quantity. The second key to success is that they always manage to excite new and existing customers with French tradition, innovation, and creativity. The third key is that we recognised the export opportunities in new markets such as Japan, Russia, the Arab world, and China very early. The Comité Colbert has a presence in 180 countries. It was only present in 70 countries when it was founded in 1954.

Do French politicians do enough to support the country’s reputation as a fashion nation?

The Comité Colbert feels well supported, especially by the diplomatic network abroad. Even though our association does not receive direct public financial support, we can always rely on moral support from political

circles. Our activities abroad are, in most cases, accompanied by the State Secretary for Foreign Trade and Tourism. The door to the office of Laurent Fabius, our Minister for Foreign Affairs, is also always open. Since he is in office, he has made his official residence, namely the Quai d’Orsay, available for many events promoting French culture and savoir faire. It only recently housed the “AD Collections” furniture exhibition for French designers. In March, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs organised a gastronomy event for foreign ambassadors in Paris, titled “Goût de France”, in Versailles.

At the same time as the event in Versailles, 160 French embassies and 1,500 restaurants in 160 countries also invited people to explore French cuisine. French fashion, design, and gastronomy have been recognised as a “matter of state”. Fabius especially, has realised how much these areas can contribute to the reputation of our country.

That sounds truly amazing for us Germans. It is hard to imagine Frank-Walter Steinmeier organising a Hugo Boss exhibition in the German Ministry of Foreign Affairs or a dinner prepared by our German star chefs.

How much political support did the Comité Colbert enjoy when it was founded in 1954?

At that time, the main focus was on reviving the French industry after World War Two. The

Market, Power, and Politics in New York 15 million Dollars is the sum that Bill de Blasio, New York’s mayor, is willing to invest in the local fashion industry. At first glance, this seems extremely unusual. After all, the American way of thinking normally prefers as little state involvement as possible. The United States were initially born out of a desire to break free from the pressure of authority. Anyone who wants to

understand how the interaction between economy and politics works today, needs to keep that in mind.

The basic rule is that every person knows best what’s good for him/her and should, to a large extent, make own decisions.

However, everyone needs to be willing and able to take care of himself/herself as well. With regard to the world of economy,

this means that the United States rely on a market regulating itself.

In practice, lobbyists make clear what their respective markets demand from the politicians. The winners are not necessarily those who deserve attention, but those with the most influence and the smartest strategy.

In the retailing industry, this is often reflected in tax breaks. In the US, regional politicians and

political circles were aware that this revival has to be based on core competences. Fashion has always been a major part of the French self-conception. However, the politicians did think that moral recognition would be sufficient and that we would muddle forward alone somehow.

We did indeed. I don’t think that the politicians were aware from the outset that the luxury products industry would one day be so valuable for the French economy and the country’s image, let alone how many jobs would one day depend on it.

Today, 165,000 employees work in the luxury products segment, 47,000 of them directly. While the number of jobs in the consumer goods industry was halved since 1984, it has doubled in our industry.

Which concrete political demands do you have to maintain this?

Our demands are basically the same as every other industry in France has too. In our view, the 35 hour week is a political mistake and cannot be upheld.

Furthermore, the high social costs that weigh on salaries are a problem. Mind you, we do not believe that the problem lies in the incomes being too high, but in the incidental wage costs that need to be shouldered by the employers. This is a burden that mainly affects our medium-sized companies. It inhibits innovations and investments, which, in turn, inhibits creativity.

city administrators can adjust taxes. They can, for instance, lower taxes on selected products for a certain period or even scrap them completely. Those with a strong lobby are having the last laugh. Cigarettes cost 5.55 Dollars in the tobacco farm state of Virginia. In New York City, which is full of smoking bans anyway, a carton costs approximately 14 Dollars.

The fashion retail industry, which is less ideology fraught and equipped with employment arguments, also benefits from this principle. In New York City, you currently do not need to pay VAT if you purchase a dress, or a different item of fashion, for less style in progress 315

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than 110 Dollars. This boosts business and leads to logistical issues.

The calculation of VAT in the United States is based on the location of the recipient. This means that New York-based store owners, who send clothing to customers who ordered via an online shop, have to use different tax calculation models. The developers of accounting software adjusted to this situation swiftly.

The American premise that the market takes care of itself works just fine in this case.

Fashion as Image Cultivation for Politics

A prime example of the relationship between fashion and politics in New York is the Garment District. At one time, most of the clothing in the United States was manufactured in the heart of Manhattan. Then the outsourcing of textile production to developing countries started. As early as the 1980s, local laws were drafted to retain the remaining business. For instance, landlords were required to reserve half of their managed area for companies from the fashion industry. Real estate investors and other business people are increasing their efforts against these regulations. At the Garment District Alliance, 315 style in progress

which also operates an information kiosk aimed at pointing fashion professionals to suppliers of fabrics, cutting services, applications, specialised dyes, and pleating, one can find property company representatives on the management board. The head of the organisation rejected our request for an interview. Despite the existing laws, 30 hotels have opened in the Garment District over the last ten years, and ten more are currently in the planning stage. The main arguments in favour of this development are that the fashion district is wonderfully central and that the laws in question did not create new jobs. In 1950, 13.5% of all New Yorkers worked in the fashion business. In 2012, it is slightly more than 1%.

New York’s politicians have not given in just yet, however. In this case, there seems to be one important factor that makes the ears of politicians all over the country prick up: image. Fashion is extremely popular. Promoting the fashion industry is infinitely more popular than committing to, for instance, the oil industry.

The photo opportunities are also infinitely more glamorous.

In addition, the label “locally produced fashion” promises the reputation of a saviour.

This is also the argument

brought forward by a group dedicated to the protection of the Garment District. Especially after the fires in garment factories in Bangladesh, one can recognise a trend towards “fashion made in the US”. This is the opinion of Samantha Cortes, who is a co-founder of Save The Garment Center. This does not mean that she wants to turn the Garment District back into a centre of mass production. Her strategy is aimed at the recognition of a niche. “The production in the United States does not depend solely on New York City’s Garment Center”, she says. “But the production of prototypes and high-end products is based in New York. That is seen as the backbone of the industry.”

In this light, it is not really surprising that New York’s mayor tripled the city’s budget for the fashion industry to 15 million Dollars in February 2015.

Together with the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), New York has decided to devise several programmes.

Among other things, 35 young designers will be granted access to inexpensive studios, support in economic matters, and the chance to showcase their collections at the New York Fashion Week.

A nice stack of Dollars will also be invested in the education of workers in the fashion production industry. New York bases this decision on the realisation that some industries benefit from proximity, as is the case in Hollywood and Silicon Valley.

New York already has Wall Street as such a cluster for the financial world. The city also already promotes the film industry and technology start-ups with its “Made in NY” initiative. It now plans to do the same for the fashion world. “The New York Fashion Week generates 900 million Dollars for New York’s economy”, states Steven Kolb, the chief executive of CFDA. This, in turn, opens doors in political circles. Fashion can be a real magnet for external funds.

New York has 75 fashion trade shows and more than 5,000 showrooms. The excellent job opportunities for designers, who might need some elaborate embroidery or laser-printed fabrics shortly before the Fashion Week,

give the city a tangible advantage in global competition. This causes the surrounding areas and other countries to look to New York for inspiration. This works so well that the local politicians already see a need to protect their city against imitators. The “Made in Brooklyn” seal takes a new movement into account: the DIY scene of Brooklyn. This movement developed without political support, but is now reaping the rewards from its own dedication.

Fashion designers are among the locals who started handcrafting things many years ago. Their focus on local production gave rise to a global trend. Now those who actually pickle cucumbers or sew trousers in Brooklyn can present their goods to the world with a reliable seal. It is unclear who benefits more - the companies themselves or the tourism authority.

New York’s fashion industry at a glance Estimated 900 fashion companies 180,000 employees Approx. 2 billion Dollars tax revenue No VAT for clothing and shoes up to 110 Dollars More than 18 billion Dollars revenue in the fashion retail industry Approx. 8 billion Dollars revenue in fashion production industry 75 fashion trade fairs More than 5,000 showrooms

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Promising Subsidies in Shanghai Currently, the conditions for German fashion companies seeking to enter the Chinese market are particularly favourable, mainly due to the weak Euro and the excellent reputation of German products in the People’s Republic. Therefore, the German Ministry of Economics and Technology has decided to support the presentation of German companies at the Chic trade show in Shanghai.

“Made in Germany” is in great demand in China, not only because of Audi, BMW, Mercedes, and VW. The Stihl chainsaws and Rimowa suitcases have also contributed to the positive image of German products in the People’s Republic. Fashion from Germany is equally popular, mainly due to pioneers such as Adidas, Boss, Escada, and, more recently, Marc O’Polo.

In order to boost exports by German companies, the Association of German Fashion has decided to organise a joint booth at Chic Shanghai, China’s largest fashion trade show, for the fourth time in a row. This time, the project enjoys the financial support of the foreign trade show programme of the German Ministry of Economics and Technology.

The German Pavilion, which is organised by Messe Düsseldorf, showcases brands that would like to intensify business relations with Chinese retailers, as well as brands that would like to gather first impressions as to if and how a market entry could be realised. The range of exhibitors is extensive; the list includes Gerry Weber, one of Germany’s strongest fashion brands, and designers such as Annette Görtz, as well as accessories and bag specialists such as Roeckl, Abro, and Picard.

Thomas Rasch, the managing director of German Fashion, explains: “In general, I consider the Chinese market to be one of the most important in the world.

German fashion can take advantage of market opportunities

here. However, China is a market that needs to be worked on continuously. The Chic trade show provides an excellent platform to present oneself as a brand, establish or intensify contacts, and is a marketing tool for the initial

interested in fashion, so it comes as no surprise that even niche fashion, such as the traditional Dirndl dresses, attracts interest.

However, I should also point out that China isn’t an easy market and requires strategic handling

market entry. Although the Chinese multi-brand store segment is growing, the market lacks the distinctive behaviour of category buyers that we have become accustomed to in Europe. Every fashion brand has a background story and that story needs to be communicated in China. The presentation has to highlight the specific nature of a brand, as well as its sales floor adaptability.

The joint “Made in Germany” pavilion is a visitor magnet and has a signal effect. It stands for high quality standards and underlines the positive image of the German fashion industry. At the spring trade show, we managed to double the number of visitors and established high-quality contacts. The Chinese are highly

by local representatives.”

The feedback from the exhibitors in the German Pavilion is positive, without exception. Georg Picard, the managing director of Picard Lederwaren GmbH & Co. KG, is therefore not alone with his opinion: “The Chic is undoubtedly the most important trade fair platform in the field of fashion for the Chinese market.

Many influential mall managers, sales professionals, and buyers come to inform themselves about relevant western brands with a high potential for the Chinese market. In China, ‘Made in Germany’ stands for the best brand and product qualities. Thus, the initiative of the Association of German Fashion and the responsible ministry to establish

a joint exhibition stand gives us an uncomplicated platform to present our brands in an attractive manner. Many organisational issues that ‘consume’ time are shouldered by the management of Messe Düsseldorf. We also consider their advice regarding the Chinese market to be very valuable. Is it worthwhile to participate in the trade show? It certainly doesn’t make sense to make a one-time appearance, but if one attends regularly, there is a chance of being discovered and finding good partners. We managed to achieve the latter after our second participation. The result is that our three participations to date have paid off.”

Although economic growth in China has slowed to 7%, it is still significantly higher than in Europe or the US. The mid-price segment currently enjoys particularly favourable development opportunities due to a fast-growing urban middle class. This segment is crying out for affordable international brand products.

The Chinese are always particularly impressed by family-owned or owner-managed brands that boast artisanal tradition, history, and high processing standards.

The respect is even higher if the brand in question manufactures its products in Europe or - in the best case - even in Germany itself.

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Since January 2014, Dr. Uwe Mazura is the general manager of the german trade association Gesamtverband Textil + Mode e.V.(Textile + Fashion Confederation). As a lobbying expert with decades of industry experience, he now wants to promote the interests of the textile and fashion industries where they are best perceived.

As an expert in political communication for institutions and companies such as the Confederation of German Employers’ Associations, Deutsche Post, and Randstad, you are actually from a completely different line of work. How did your appointment at Germany’s Gesamtverband Textil + Mode e.V. come about? Why did they turn to you?

what I’ve been doing in Bonn and Berlin for the more than 25 years. First of all, the position appealed to me because the industry is diverse and exciting.

Secondly, I believe there is enormous potential for progress here.

Interview: Quynh Tran.

Illustration: Claudia Meitert @Caroline Seidler

I think those responsible for the decision were looking for someone with political experience who is capable of navigating the political arena. That’s exactly

Sven Giegold is a co-founder of the antiglobalisation NGO Attac.

Since 2009, he is also a co-ordinator for the Green/Efa faction in the Committee for Economy and Currency (ECON) in the European Parliament.

The Green party member is critical of the Transatlantic Free Trade Agreement (TTIP).

The Green faction in the European Parliament is strongly opposed to the Transatlantic Free Trade Agreement (TTIP). Is this because of a lack of transparency or because of the agreement itself? They criticise that many documents regarding the agreement are not accessible and that the wording is often unclear. Is it even possible to fundamentally criticise a subject matter that is so unclear?

agreement are not accessible.

One of the exceptions is the negotiation mandate on the Transatlantic Free Trade Agreement, which is merely the tip of the iceberg. But this basically places the whole range of services and trade in goods at disposal. Key points of the mandate include the deregulation and harmonisation of standards and investor-state arbitration. This would allow large corporations to sue countries in private arbitration courts. This would create double standards in legal terms. There would be one rule of law for those who can afford arbitration and another for those who don’t have

Interview: Quynh Tran.

Illustration: Claudia Meitert @Caroline Seidler

The transparency of the negotiations is very poor and most of the documents regarding the

What is this potential?

In terms of the textile industry, most people first think of clothing and the Far East. Hardly anyone knows that Germany is the world leader in the field of technical textiles. Even I only recently learned that we have 16 textile research institutes and that textile construction technologies - utilising concrete

and carbon fibres - are considered a part of this industry. These facts aren’t as well known as they should be.

Seeing that technical textiles are so present in your view, how important is the fashion sector? How do you rate the public perception of the fashion and textile industry in Germany?

The fashion segment is a part of the entire industry, as well as shoes, leather products, and household textiles. However, fashion has a lot to do with emotions. This is certainly different in the technical textiles segment,

sufficient funds for such action.

However, the same rule of law should apply to all, which is why quasi-judicial decisions should be made by real judges, not by private arbitration courts with industry lawyers as judges. We are opposed to these negotiations without clear democratic, social, and ecological boundaries, as are many representatives of the SME sector, the trade unions, and even the church. The criticism of these new trade agreements has become very extensive. The citizens’ initiative “Stop TTIP and CETA” has generated almost 1.7 million signatures and no less than 200 German municipa-

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which is closer to technical knowledge, science, and rationality. Technical textiles are mostly produced in Germany, while clothing is produced abroad.

First and foremost, the German textile industry needs the public attention the German fashion industry already enjoys. In the area of clothing production, the discussion about sustainability is particularly important. As a consumer product, fashion is part of our lives and enjoys a wide audience. It is subject to comprehensive news coverage and can draw from substantial advertising budgets.

But isn’t there a perception problem with fashion in Germany? Isn’t there a need to award it more cultural and economic appreciation?

In the case of fashion, appreciation is an intriguing issue. There is a certain level of appreciation, but to me it seems it is more austere than in other countries. The perception of fashion is actually highly relevant for us, but the

lities have passed TTIP-critical resolutions.

Why are there still so many supporters among political and business circles? What would TTIP mean for the textile industry, of which the majority endorses TTIP?

Naturally, the disparity of rules is a problem for free trade and the harmonisation of standards can open markets. In principle, we are not against free trade agreements on the basis of a mandate that complies with social, ecological, and democratic rules.

There’s nothing to be said against aligning rules, as long as they are technical rules. However, when it comes to the question of which pollutants are allowed to be in textiles, we would like to see that Europe remains free to tighten its standards in the future. Who knows what we’ll still find out about the adverse health effects caused by certain substances?

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work volume required for technical textiles is much higher.

This means you are planning to compensate for the asymmetric public perception ratio within in the industry?

That’s one of our assignments.

Coinciding with your appointment, Ingeborg Neumann, a textile entrepreneur, was elected as president. How do you two interact?

Mrs Neumann is a highly successful textile entrepreneur; her Peppermint Holding operates numerous production sites in Saxony and Eastern Europe, which generate an annual revenue of approximately 90 million Euros. She has been politically interested and active since her early youth, which means she brings a lot of contacts to the table. In this regard, we complement each other perfectly. As an entrepreneur from the industry, she has an authenticity that a general manager simply cannot have. A president who is an entrepreneur can highlight prob-

mental, health-related, and social standards. They should not, like the current mandate suggests, have to ask a council for regulatory co-operation before they can improve the protection of their citizens. Sadly, the TTIP negotiations have gone beyond the sensible aim of approximating technical norms. They aim at quality standards that include value judgements and are held behind closed doors.

Is it common and democratically acceptable to keep such an important agreement under lock and key?

Except for the European Parliament, where people negotiate under translation in 23 official languages and via video recordings, talks regarding international treaties have always been conducted in secret. However, the further globalisation and the Internet progress, the more the people find it strange - and rightly so. They have the feeling that everything has become transparent and that we are

lems much more authentically.

The Gesamtverband Textil + Mode e.V.also has offices in Moscow and Shanghai. What role does an advocacy group like this play in an international context? How can you support the German textile industry face the challenges the international value chain poses?

The main mission of our association is the political business in Berlin and Brussels. This year we and Manfred Junkert, my deputy and the general manager of the German Federal Association of the Footwear and Leather Goods Industry, want to intensify our work in Brussels significantly. He will be there more often, mainly to represent the interests of the German textile and fashion industries on a European level.

Due to the different and highly complex lobbying structures in Germany and Europe, it is imperative to handle Berlin and Brussels separately. Our main focus is to provide our members

being spied on, but then such important issues are discussed behind closed doors. People find it disconcerting when even elected representatives, who are paid to control such processes, don’t receive sufficient information. As MEPs, we have access to certain documents in a reading room.

However, the most important documents are not accessible and one isn’t allowed to take notes. Most of our employees aren’t even allowed to look at the documents, even though they contain thousands of pages of legal details that would need to be reviewed. This isn’t an efficient control mechanism and means that we only have limited participation opportunities. In the end, we will be presented with a document of several thousand pages, which we can then either approve or reject.

So far, only the mandates for the TTIP and TiSA agreements have been published.

However, there are many other ongoing negotiations.

with the best service possible. Up until now, the offices in Shanghai and Moscow were focused on market development and acted as a platform for the communication with local authorities and companies. They were a kind of mediator in the respective countries.

How will the conditions for textile production for German companies develop at home and abroad? Will Germany and Europe become more important as a production location in the future? Is it possible to strengthen it?

I have heard from some companies that the production is returning to Europe. In this respect, we are talking about the customised production of smaller units for which customers don’t want to wait too long for the delivery. Of course it’s in our interest to strengthen Germany as a production location. The clothing industry has been a global industry for decades. This is not a trend that we can - or

Parallel to TTIP and TiSA, there are talks regarding approximately 20 other free trade agreements for Europe. Those mandates haven’t even been published yet.

The treaty for Canada alone consists of 1,600 pages, and every one of the aforementioned contracts is similar in length, with slightly differing regulations. This bilateralisation of negotiations with slightly differing rules in every contract will make the international trade laws complicated and very difficult to enforce.

So how can we discuss the basic subject of free trade outside the TTIP agreement?

TTIP is based on a fundamentally questionable idea, namely that Europe and America run the world and create such a large internal market that the smaller countries are virtually forced to accept their standards if they want to gain access to said market. Many developing and emerging countries find that problematic too. This is actually

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108 WHAT'S THE STORY Fashion+politics

even want to - stop. Technical textiles, however, are produced in Germany to a significant extent. Whether there is a risk of this production migrating is also a question of location development, political issues, and competition conditions created by labour and production regulations. In the US, fracking has, for instance, reduced energy prices to such an extent that it revived the American industry as a whole.

The collapse of Rena Plaza has become symbolic for the horrific working conditions in low-wage countries. Such an event is not only a human catastrophe, but also damages the image of the entire industry. This has corresponding economic consequences.

of such incidents? How can one establish fair competition rules in less developed countries?

what the World Trade Organisation is there for. Traditionally, Germany has always promoted multilateral rules, mainly because we are a global export nation and want free markets everywhere. Therefore, we are in favour of strengthening multilateral relations via the WTO, but that means we will have to compromise with other countries. The developing countries have made very clear that they are willing to talk about further issues once we show some reason regarding the agricultural sector.

In Europe and the US, agriculture is subsidised with billions.

This leads to cheap products that cause an absurd distortion of competition for developing countries, whose main business happens to be agricultural production. Would we have more humane and economically sensible policies in this respect, we would gain an opportunity to discuss many questions, which we are now only discussing with the Americans, on a global level

within the WTO. Germany and Europe are industrial countries with developed service markets; they are not agricultural nations.

It can’t be standard procedure to be too afraid to show a few agricultural lobbyists their limits and to accept a bilateralisation of the entire trade policy regarding investments, services, and product standards. In this respect, I don’t understand the stance of the industry. The textile federations could, for instance, say: “We are interested in establishing common rules, but we want the government to revive the WTO.” In my opinion, that would be a lot more sensible than pouncing on TTIP.

To what extent can an advocacy group influence and/ or create a combination of economic efficiency and the compliance with ethical and ecological standards to prevent the reoccurrence

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Primarily, such an incident is a human catastrophe. And believe me; this shakes the foundations of German businesses interminably. The image damage is, of course, immense. I do believe that we, in our capacity as industry representatives, should have made our position clear earlier and more forcefully. The textile alliance devised by Gerd Müller, the German Minister for Development, is absolutely correct.

Why did you criticise the initiative so much then?

It is beyond question that we, as the industry and retailers, share the responsibility for the living and working conditions of the people who produce for us. That we cannot regulate every detail in Germany is another issue. I am convinced that our companies’ sense of responsibility is at a very high level. Just look at the fac-

Why don’t they simply do that then?

It’s not simple at all, mainly because you need to compromise with countries that one would rather bamboozle. When Europe signs an agreement with the US and creates a market that is strong enough to compel all the others to adopt the same stan-

tories of German companies in Vietnam, Bangladesh, and other countries. They are usually model facilities that do a lot more than merely comply with all ILO core labour standards and demand the highest standards. We know that the situation in many factories, which are not operated

by German companies, is different. It is definitely our duty to contribute to the improvement of working conditions, as far as we can afford to do so.

What certainly doesn’t work is German idealism on an abstract level. The idea that every German company should commit to guaranteeing “living wages” is utopian. Livelihood is primarily a task for the state and we need to place the responsibility where it belongs. Companies cannot shoulder or replace state supervision, because they have no democratic legitimacy to do so.

What right does a company have to start policing in another country? That requires statehood; this is where the states them­selves

need to act. We can, however, offer support and help. It goes without saying that companies need to uphold the law, but it’s up to the state organs to control this.

dards in order to gain unproblematic market access, it is easier for us than considering Brazil, South Africa, India, and other developing countries. This form of international relations, namely that the rich govern the affairs of the world for all, should be a thing of the past.

Furthermore, we are against private arbitration. If we are to have international jurisdiction, it must be in the form of an international trade court, not in the form of privatised justice.

In addition, all municipal issues must remain firmly in the hands of municipal decision makers.

There should be no obligation for future liberalisation, because that is a decision that should be made by local authorities, and not be determined by an international free trade agreement. We want a new negotiating mandate for TTIP. One that no longer contains the aspects that endanger democracy and is restricted to adapting technical rules. In addition, we believe that Germany and Europe would be well advised to invest their energies in this respect into the WTO.

What would you demand from a fair trade agreement?

We are not opposed to TTIP in principle. In Germany and Europe, we discuss what we can imagine - and what not - in great detail. When we have access to the relevant documents, we monitor the progress of negotiations and work on details.

However, the TTIP agreement has too many problematic issues.

We have three major concerns.

First of all, we want standards that include value judgements to remain freely changeable. That means we are against a council for regulatory co-operation and the permanent harmonisation of rules, because there must be the possibility to change the rules.

Which measures do you have in mind that could help improve ethical and environmental standards?

Companies already comply with contractually agreed standards today. They need to assist in increasing the awareness for the importance of social and ecological standards at their business partners. This process already began a long time ago and will continue to progress. I am confident that we, the ministry, and the NGOs will jointly promote this process successfully in the future.

A study conducted by the Boston Consulting Group recently predicted the disappearance of the lowwage caravan. What impact will wage increases and the growing entitlement of

Why is everyone pouncing on the trade angle anyway?

Wouldn’t it be sensible especially for the textile industry - to strengthen Eastern and Southern Europe

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panies that wish to export to the US. For the latter, TTIP equals a market development, mainly because it simplifies processes. In principle, free trade makes developing and emerging countries more prosperous. I am convinced of that and support any free trade agreement. However, it is true that many mistakes have been made in communicating the agreement.

workers, mainly in production countries such as China and India, have on German businesses?

Increasing wages lead to price increases. From an economic point of view, anything else is impossible. That is the nature of a market economy. It’s also in our best interest to make sure that the standard of living improves in the production countries.

You support TTIP. What benefits do you expect for the German textile industry?

We support TTIP emphatically, because we hope it will lead to less red tape and a simplification of, for instance, the customs legislation. Currently, the average duty on our products stands at 20%. TTIP would make that disappear. Let’s take a men’s parka as a practical example. If it’s made of cotton the duty rate stands at 9.4%, while it stands at 27% if it’s made of chemical fibres. If it is a women’s parka made of chemical fibres the duty rate stands at 28%. This is

as production locations on EU level? This could, for instance, create new jobs in Greece.

There are high-end clothing production capacities all over Europe. However, the biggest part of the market has such a large wage gap, that I believe renewable energy, organic food, and sustainable tourism are better future markets for Greece, Southern Europe, and Eastern Europe. We are actively fighting such large wage gaps. The EU regularly stops goods coming in from China, because they come in at dumping prices due to subsidies. We are in favour of fair wages worldwide and fair trade.

We Greens want to take advantage of the benefits of global trade, as well as the development opportunities for other countries that are associated with those benefits.

absurd, and nobody can explain why it is that way. In the US, the “Made in” label has to be sewn into the centre of the collar section, even though it is attached to the waist seam in all other countries. That means you need an additional production step if you want to export into the US. While large companies can deal with the complexity of customs legislation, it can be an exclusion criterion for medium-sized com-

But TTIP does not only include a harmonisation of such bureaucratic aspects, but also includes consumer protection directives, for which the EU was responsible previously, as well as investment protection and the special right of action for companies at private arbitration tribunals. Is that acceptable?

much stricter than in the EU. I am sure that the harmonisation process will ultimately result in a high level of consumer protection. Private arbitration proceedings are by no means an invention of TTIP, and they don’t contradict European law.

Since 1959, the Federal Republic of Germany has concluded more than 130 investment agreements.

They also protect German companies from expropriation and other state measures.

In some areas, EU standards are higher than the US-American ones. However, there are counter­examples too! For example, the limit values for emissions from power plants in the US are

We have been asking this question for a long time. In the meantime, European Commissioner Cecilia Malmström has committed to the introduction of a certification. However, we are still waiting for a specific proposal. If that proposal doesn’t come soon, we will consider applying some pressure on the commission with an own-initiative report by the parliament. The catastrophic fire at the Rana Plaza textile factory - and all the deaths it caused - happened more than a year ago. With our resolution on the case, we managed to win a majority for the demand that the existing OECD health and safety standards should be binding for everyone. I’d like to enshrine fair production conditions for all products imported into the EU.

Why has Europe not managed to establish a meaningful certification process for the textile industry?

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Dare to Create For some they are like paradise - for others they are soulless machines of consumerism. Shopping centres change the appearance of cities permanently. To what extent are politicians respon­ sible for the character and appearance of a town? Are local politicians making the right decisions regarding the urban environment?

Text: Ina KĂśhler. Photos: Interviewees. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler

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The scenes are always alike.

Huge crowds jostle through the halls of every newly opened larger shopping centre. In autumn 2014, more than 10,000 people celebrated the opening of the “Mall of Berlin” on Leipziger Platz. Six months later, however, the 76,000 square metre shopping quarter has to face up to normality and one might be tempted to say that disenchantment has set it. More than a dozen of the original 270 shops are empty and a number of tenants lament a lack of customer frequency. Christoph Meyer, the honorary director of the urban development committee at the Chamber of Commerce Berlin, does still believe in the location’s development potential, but the critics of the so-called “mallification” are as persistent as ever.

Before the grand opening, the local TAZ newspaper sarcastically highlighted that the “Mall of Berlin” has absolutely nothing to do with the tradition-steeped “Kaufhaus Wertheim”, which was the former occupant of the space that is now Berlin’s 67th shopping centre. Die Zeit strongly criticised local politicians for not utilising their planning authority and accepting “soulless triviality and dreadfulness”. Christoph Stelzer, the managing director of Dfrost GmbH, a Stuttgart-based company that plans and implements retail projects, is also disappointed by the lack of initiative of communal leaders in his home town: “Unfortunately, the politicians don’t influence the shaping of city centres enough.

In my eyes, Stuttgart is a prime example for what’s currently happening to city centres in general.” Only recently, the Swabian 315 style in progress

capital saw the construction of large shopping centres such as “Gerber” and “Milaneo”. “The city has not managed to integrate these large buildings into an urban environment properly”, Stelzer says. “This is especially true in the case of the ‘Gerber’ shopping centre. The local authorities failed to insist on an all-round opening of the ground floor facades. This means that the integration into the existing shopping structure has only been partially successful. Aside from urban planning sins, especially against the background of growing retail spaces and stagnating purchasing power, one has to question whether every new shopping centre in Germany is actually worth its cost."

shops. The reason why shopping centres are such popular investments has, by the way, nothing to with their performance.

Investors with immense financial firepower from all over the globe have focused on retail real estate for many years, especially on shopping centres. The sales

Large Cities are Still Performing The Periphery Struggles The central downtown locations in top cities such as Berlin, Munich, Cologne, Frankfurt, Düsseldorf, Hamburg, and Stuttgart are still performing well and some even experienced high rent increases. However, the rental fees in secondary locations and the periphery have remained stagnant for years. The future looks especially bleak in some small towns in rural areas or in regions that lack adequate structures. A new shopping centre, be it large or small, is too often seen as the saviour. Despite a proven lack or decline of purchasing power, investors still happily continue ploughing funds into peripheral locations or cities with dropping population figures.

Recent examples are shopping centres openings in places like Meppen, Solingen, Hagen, Recklinghausen, and Kaiserslautern. Is this really a sound investment in the future against the background of demographic change?

Newest Isn’t Best Shopping centres that are continuously successful do exist.

According to a shopping centre performance report compiled by the consulting firm Ecostra, the top shopping centre is the “Lago” in Constance, closely followed by the “Main-TaunusCenter” in Frankfurt and the “Breuningerland”. It is quite striking that the new showcase projects are not the ones that are profitable. The shopping centre in Constance obviously benefits from its proximity to the rich Switzerland, but the other top ten centres are also not particularly glamorous, but rather solid plain fare such as the aforementioned “Main-Taunus-Center”, which was opened in 1964, and the Breuninger locations in Sindelfingen and Ludwigsburg.

Profitability Test Only a few years ago, shopping malls were still perceived as communal showpieces and an indicator for a city’s progress and prosperity. Today, their profitability is under increasing scrutiny. Even relatively new shopping centres, such as the “Skyline Plaza” in Frankfurt, are noticing the difference. As soon as the customer frequency isn’t adequate, as is the case with this mall from 2013, the tenants demand a reduction of rental fees or even threaten to close their

of 15 years or more are no longer realistic for shopping centres”, Dfrost’s Christoph Stelzer explains. “In the shop fitting industry, we reckon that a store must have paid for itself within three to five years. It was much longer than that previously, seven to ten years on average.”

“The local authorities need to find a good key for a suitable industry mix.

Traditional, privately owned houses are left defenceless against the Short-Sighted expansionist Planning desires of giant Demographic change is, howevconglomerates.” er, not the only threat. A study Christoph Stelzer, DFROST

expectations are correspondingly high. However, declining sales area profitability, an increase of available retail space, and strong competition from online retailers have put a strain on the sales figures. This means that the financial returns have fallen significantly. Many years ago, one expected a shopping centre to enjoy long-term success, but these calculation models are now desperately outdated. “In general, I believe that maturities

conducted by the Cologne-based Institute for Business Research claims that the stationary retail industry will see its revenue drop by 20% to approximately 405 billion Euros by 2020.

This doesn’t seem to bother the planners of our “brave new shopping worlds”. According to the EHI Retail Institute, the number of shopping centres in Germany increased from 363 to 460 between 2005 and 2014, while the total retail space increased from 11.4 million square metres to 14.4 million square

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metres. The reasoning during the planning or expansion of a shopping mall usually follows a universal pattern: They promise jobs in masses and investment in the “future” of the cities. Who could possibly be opposed to that? Politicians who question these promises need courage and a strong backbone. In Austria, a local politician of the Green Party only recently experienced how difficult that can be. Astrid Rössler, the planning commissioner of the province of

“A renaissance in the city centres is already foreseeable and should be supported: it brings life to the town centres and protects the countryside from additional traffic and land waste.”

Astrid Rössler, planning commissioner of the province of Salzburg

Salzburg, blocked the creation of more retail space on the basis of a study. The opposition moved swiftly. Salzburg’s “Europark”, which already boasts 34,000

square metres of retail space, had to put its own expansion plans on hold, but is now publicly threatening to cut 200 jobs.

Among the Shopping Park Enthusiasts in the EU Austria already has twice as much retail space per capita than the EU average. In the province of Salzburg it is an average of 1.96 square metres, in the provincial capital itself even 2.8 square metres. Roland Murauer, the retail researcher who conducted the aforementioned study, has been highlighting the danger of shopping mall ruins, vacancies, and destroyed town centres for some time: “More shopping centres that nobody needs are being built, mainly because there are a lot of funds available for such investments.”

Astrid Rössler argues that there has been a withdrawal of purchasing power: “Especially over the last ten years, the province of Salzburg has experienced a huge increase of retail space, which means that further development projects have to be evaluated carefully. Since the purchasing power has hardly increased over the last few years, additional retail space would lead to cannibalisation effects between locations and/or regions.” She believes those are sufficient reasons to stop the uninhibited retail space development. Rössler believes that the future should not be defined by limitless expansion, but by a qualitative development of the cities: “The future of ‘analogue retail’ does not lie in an increase of quantity, but of quality. A renaissance in the city centres is already foreseeable and should be supported: it brings life to the town centres and protects the countryside from additional traffic and land waste.” The clothing industry already occupies 54% of Salzburg’s inner-city retail space. Rössler’s views are shared elsewhere. “The local authorities need to find a good key for a suitable industry mix. Traditional, privately owned houses are left defenceless against the expansionist desires of giant conglomerates”, Dfrost’s Christoph Stelzer argues.

Stuttgart is in a particularly dangerous position: “There is, for instance, no proper place to sit in Königstrasse anymore. There is no café or proper restaurant, because it is now just occupied by a string of fashion retailers.”

This phenomenon is well known and documented. In the Austrian film titled “Global Shopping Village” (2014), Ulli Gladik highlights the potentially fatal mechanisms of shopping centre developers and the impact on the surrounding communities.

tainable retail development.” The property, with Breuninger as an anchor tenant, has added a real highlight to the city centre. In general, the textile retail industry plays a central role in Düsseldorf.

Approximately 1,300 retailers (including the surrounding area)

Resistance Exists Elsewhere

Some areas of Germany are also taking a stand against “mallification”, especially when it comes to factory outlets. The cities Tübingen and Reutlingen have decided to join forces against the proposed expansion of the Hugo Boss Outlet in neighbouring Metzingen. In Metzingen, Holy AG wants to transform the former Ganslen & Völter textile factory into an 8,000 square metre outlet centre and establish an additional 3,000 square metres of retail space. The surrounding cities are already lamenting a purchasing power drain of 15% to 20% due the 30,000 square metre outlet centre. In Münster, a number of retailers, service providers, catering businesses, and property owners have formed an association named “Initiative Starke Innenstadt”. The main aim of this organisation is to implement a set of measures that will keep the city centre attractive in the long term. This is actually an issue that politicians should be dealing with.

Downtown Design - The Right Way

In Düsseldorf, the responsible parties laid the groundwork for long-term planning at a very early stage. “Düsseldorf ’s textile retail industry is mainly developing organically”, Uwe Kermann, the head of the city’s business development unit, explains.

“The ‘Kö Bogen’ is an architectural icon in a prime inner city location at the end of the ‘Kö’ and is a shining example for sus-

“Uncontrolled expansion of retail space, often far away from residential centres and vehicleoriented, is in fact a threat for the grown and functioning supply structures of a city.”

Uwe Kerkmann, Düsseldorf business development committee

generate a turnover of roughly 5.8 billion Euros. In recent years, there have been a number of investments in the city centre, which has, according to conservative estimates, led to a retail area increase of about 20%.

“The politicians play a central part in a city, especially in the context of local government and the sovereign responsibility for urban development planning”, Uwe Kerkmann says. “Uncontrolled expansion of retail space, often far away from residential style in progress 315

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”It’s Too Simple to Shift Responsibility to Politicians”

centres and vehicle-oriented, is in fact a threat for the grown and functioning supply structures of a city. The administration and politicians of Düsseldorf reacted early to this development.” In plain text this means that there are centres with clearly defined purposes within an urban environment. Fashion retailing is therefore only permitted in defined supply centres. Their size is decided by specialised committees and ultimately confirmed by the city council.

Private Initiative Counts

One thing is clear, once shopping centres are empty, it causes problems for the owners and the city alike.

But what happens to the unoccupied retail spaces that even exist in boom towns like Düsseldorf and Stuttgart?

In the Swabian capital, the landmarked “Calwer Passage” from the 1960s and 1970s was transformed into an alternative shopping street named “Fluxus” on private initiative.

Pop-up stores are designed to provide more customer frequency. So is there new life? “Store operators should show more courage when it comes to pop-up concepts”, Christoph Stelzer argues. “For many reasons: The half-life period for stores is shorter anyway. Also, the value of a brand is not only measured by whether it utilises the finest materials. For property owners, pop-up concepts can enhance their assets and create more attention and customer frequency.”

Münster is perceived as an attractive shopping city with a supraregional catchment area. style in progress spoke to Andreas Weitkamp, the owner of the tradition-steeped fashion retailer Modehaus Schnitzler, about the influence of local politics on the face of the city.

Interview: Ina Köhler. Photo: Schnitzler

In your opinion, which role do politicians play in the shaping of the city centre? In Münster, the local

politicians traditionally have a large influence on city development. We have old town statutes, which regulate details like fonts in a certain colour, as well as prohibiting neon lights, eye-catching structures, and labelled umbrellas. They define how individual companies need to behave. This creates a certain uniformity and ensures a clean and neat overall picture. It’s easy when the rules for everyone are so clear.

The cities also have an influence on the rules by approving or rejecting projects. Even in Münster, there were plans for green-field projects… In

1999, there were plans to build a new football stadium in com-

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bination with a shopping centre managed by ECE. This project was discussed quite controversially at the time. Both the city council and the federal government of North Rhine-Westphalia had already approved the construction, but a lawsuit prevented it from happening.

In this context, the merchant association took a strong stand.

A little later, ECE built the “Münster Arkaden” shopping mall in the city centre, which has developed into a customer magnet that benefits all resident retailers. Today, the city council deliberately rules in favour of the existing city centre structure.

For example, the city is in a legal dispute with Decathlon after denying the company approval for settling down in a peripheral industrial area.

Is there a lot of retail space competition in Münster?

After all, the city’s average rental price of 150 Euros per square metre is, according to Immobilienverband Deutschland (IVD), higher than in Düsseldorf… Yes, I

can confirm that. In the face of 300,000 inhabitants, we have a lot of textile retail space. Almost every well-known multi-brand store has a presence - from Appelrath & Cüpper to P&C, as well as vertically integrated suppliers. This creates a very competitive environment. Thank goodness there are still some owner-managed stores in 1a-locations. However, one can feel the effects of the displacement process. All new projects are in 1b-locations.

Could the city provide better framework conditions?

I’m not entirely sure, actually.

Ultimately, every retailer needs to explore which tools it wants to utilise. For example, Münster will not approve Sunday shopping before Christmas. This was repeatedly demanded and always rejected - sometimes by the church, sometimes by the trade unions, sometimes by the politicians. In my eyes, that’s the only issue on which we have a difference of views. It’s going really well in general. There are hardly any vacancies; the city thrives on the influx and the resulting increase in purchasing power. The politicians and the well-organised merchant association have always understood each other well and the latter steps in when the politicians hit a barrier.

Do you have any examples?

Two years ago, the merchant association decided to launch an architectural competition to revive the Schlossplatz. Then there is an initiative named “Initiative Starke Innenstadt” (ISI), which is an association formed by local caterers and retailers. It manages Sunday shopping days, events, and promotions that make the city centre more attractive for inhabitants and visitors. The city’s own initiatives are handled by “Münster Marketing”. The appreciation on both sides leads to an environment that seems very productive. It’s too simple to shift all responsibility to politicians.

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Berlin, Berlin! Who’s Driving to Berlin?

An ever increasing number of trade shows are competing for a decreasing number of trade visitors, who are already burdened by a huge number of trade fairs and order dates every season.

What significance does this have for Berlin as a fashion metropolis?

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. lllustration: Claudia Meitert @Caroline Seidler

Markus Wahl is in good spirits; he is looking forward to Berlin. For the men’s fashion retailer from the Swabian town of Ertingen a trip to the German capital at the start of the season goes without saying. “It takes no more than one flight to Berlin for me to gain a comprehensive overview at the trade shows”, he says. “I get a break from my daily grind, the inspiration is vital, and the overall mood spurs us on sustainably in our daily business.”

Meet and Greet

Berlin is where the season traditionally kicks off with a broad range of approximately 12 trade fairs, as well as the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week and other formats, such as the new Berlin Fashion Salon. The latter was initiated by Christiane Arp, the managing director of Vogue, to promote design items made in Germany. These events make Berlin one of the most important locations for the fashion industry - but not for all. There are simply too many events in the retailers’ calendars, whose travelling efforts have almost doubled over the last few years while the volume has remained more or less unchanged. It’s only logical that several retailers are considering removing some

appointments from their agenda, most particularly the one event during which one gets the least seasonal work done. “I travel to up to 30 trade shows and orders every year, which is sometimes too much for me”, says Petra Fischer, the managing director of Modehaus Fischer. “Last year, I scrapped Berlin in favour of Milan and Paris, mainly because the collections on show there are very important for my business.

Even though we meet many of our suppliers at the Premium trade fair, I often wonder what I have actually achieved when I leave Berlin. The constant ‘meet and greet’ has little to do with concentrated order work.” Today, Petra Fischer conducts a large portion of her personal trend research online. “For example, I watch the shows on style.com, leaf through all sorts of magazines, and draw inspiration from “Berlin is not so much about parties, but more about business and innovative strength. In my opinion, we haven’t peaked as a fashion metropolis yet. We need to carry on working sustainably and develop the location Berlin continuously.” Anita Tillmann, managing director of Premium Exhibitions

the streets of Paris and Milan”, she explains. “All this gives me just as much impetus as the trade shows, possibly even more.”

Susanne Lindner also conducts online research for her store, Standby Lindner. “I discover a lot on Instagram, for example.

I sometimes contact the label directly to establish first contact”, the business woman from Dortmund reveals. “Some new

“Berlin has established itself, especially for the German, Austrian, and Swiss markets. The early date and the extensive range are ideal. At the Premium and Show & Order we can browse without obligation, unlike in the showrooms of Milan and Munich.” Ambros

Strolz, owner of Strolz Lech

collections approach me, such as Anine Bing, a highly successful collection that I reorder on a weekly basis. That proves to me that desirability still exists and that I don’t necessarily need a trade show to find it.”

Euphoria and Business

It’s quite clear that the Berlin euphoria is over. When the Bread & Butter trade show returned from Barcelona to Berlin, it brought a mass of Southern European retailers into the city.

The crowds were as impressive as the multilingual hubbub. Berlin turned into a massive party and an international fashion hotspot with a wide variety of jeans and urban lifestyle brands in Tempelhof, as well as the continuously growing Premium trade fair for top premium fashion. “This mix was ideal for us and you could only find that in Berlin”, says Ambros Strolz, the owner of Strolz in Lech. Today, the market situation is completely different. “Many visitors from “Trade shows are still upto-date and important for us retailers in terms of viewing new trends. How many showrooms would I need to visit to gain such a comprehensive overview?” Torsten Mansfeld, owner of Bazar Royal

Italy and Spain don’t come because they are struggling with the current economic climate”, Ambros Strolz adds. However, the retailers from the aforementioned countries are not the only ones who put a question mark next to their Berlin visit this season. Even though the city is so vibrant, and even though the new stores, restaurants, and clubs are so inspiring, Berlin has become routine. Add to this the fact that there are very few new trends and more comparability in fashion in general. Furthermore, a stroll through a trade show can become tiring for top retailers, especially when they are “It baffles me when a retailer says he can’t visit Berlin because he has an appointment in Milan on the same day.

Why not simply postpone the appointment in Milan in favour of viewing up to 3,000 collections here in Berlin?” Jörg Wichmann,

managing partner of Panorama

approached by representatives at every single booth. Last but not least, one needs to take the general pressure of the stationary retail industry into account, caused by either rapidly increasing sales of online giants or by large brands that invest primarily in their own retail strategies and therefore don’t showcase their products at trade fairs anymore.

“For us it is very unfortunate that many larger jeans brands no longer see the need to be present at trade shows. It is important for us to track the path of brands and to see which people are the driving force behind them”, says Stefan Crämer, the managing director of Crämer & Co Nuremberg. “However, that should be style in progress 315

118 WHAT'S THE STORY

all the more of an incentive for us multi-brand retailers to strive for individuality. The collections that enable us to do this can be found at trade shows.”

“Berlin is the first look and first impression for many. Small retailers need to think carefully before they decide which trips make sense and try to arrange their appointments as best they can.

Otherwise they won’t survive.” Petra Fischer,

managing director of Modehaus Fischer New Hand

When the Bread & Butter trade fair filed for insolvency last year, the cards were reshuffled. The Seek trade show, which was previously held in the Kühlhaus in the direct vicinity of the Premium trade fair, was initially an event for a small, fine range of progressive menswear. Last season, the Seek event moved to the Treptow Arena and was massively expanded to accommodate no less than 280 brands right next to the Bright trade show. The new Selvedge Run format in the Schöneweider Rheinbeckhallen strives to be the first address for artisan-oriented brands and starts off with labels such as Nudie, Stetson, and Wolverine.

The major trade shows of today are the Premium and the Panorama, while the Bread & Butter will present its new consumer-based concept with its new partner Zalando in Tempelhof from January 2015 onwards.

Last winter, approximately 1,000 brands showcased their products at the Premium, which adjusts its brand portfolio by adding between 20 and 30 percent first-time exhibitors every season.

“It requires intensive research, investment, and a very good international network to remain ‘cutting edge’ continuously”, explains Anita Tillmann, the managing director of Premium Exhibitions. The further development of the services range is also vital to make the lives of trade visitors as easy as possible.

This starts with measures such as easy travel packages, shuttle services, and a joint ticketing system for the events Premium, Seek, Show & Order, Bright, 315 style in progress

Green Showroom, and Ethical Fashion Show. It ends with a brand match system that suggests an individually tailored selection of collections to the buyer. The Panorama trade show has established itself as the marketplace for consumer-oriented collections. “We need to understand both sides and align ourselves to meet the needs of the retailers”, says Jörg Wichmann, the managing director of the Panorama trade fair. “We don’t merely want to present strong brands, but also integrate new trend labels.”

Verena Malta, who goes into the fourth year with her 300-strong brand portfolio of the Show & Order in Kraftwerk, is pleased with increasing confirmation for her concept. “We have established ourselves as a trade fair for new brands looking to gain a “I would like to receive more support from politicians. It would be important to fly in renowned international retailers and opinion leaders. The nationalised CIff Copenhagen and Who’s next Paris are already doing just this. It is not enough to rely solely on the appeal of Berlin.” Verena

Malta, managing director of Show & Order

foothold in the German market.

It is vital to have a USP”, the managing director of Show & Order explains. This season, she is co-operating with Sophie Guyot, the entrepreneur behind the Fame at Who’s Next Paris, for the first time. The latter presents her new showroom concept titled So… by Show & Order.

“I am honoured to collaborate with such professional partners”, Verena Malta says. “This is an exciting addition to the Show & Order.”

Home Advantage?

Above all, Berlin has established itself as a trade show location for retailers from Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. “The timing “In my capacity as a retailer, Berlin gives me more inspiration than any showroom in this world.”

Markus Wahl, managing direc­ tor of Bekleidungshaus Wahl

“At trade shows one gets to meet the people behind the brands. The vibrancy is an important factor. That’s why we travel to London and Copenhagen, to find something that hasn’t been grazed completely yet.” Susanne Lindner, owner

of Standby Lindner

and trade fair offering is a perfect fit for our market. Retailers need Berlin to find the new products that we need to complement our regular suppliers”, Ambros Strolz explains. “Here we can obtain a first, non-binding overview, especially in terms of women’s fashion, and a second look at the menswear for which we already travelled to Florence earlier in the year. We can arrange appointments for collections that we find interesting, before making a final decision in the showrooms in Munich or Salzburg.”

Does the variety of Berlin’s trade shows confuse retailers? The last fashion fair season was not only difficult for Torsten Mansfeld, the owner of Bazar Royal in Leipzig. The loss of the Bread & Butter event at Tempelhof meant that many of his suppliers were suddenly spread out all over Berlin. “As visitors for three days, we need to focus on efficiency, but in January we spent most of our time looking for parking spots. Retailers need continuity from the organisers; the kind of continuity that the Pitti Uomo stands for. It is so difficult to have solidarity between producers and agencies, which makes it even more important to have a reliable trade show partner.”

Nevertheless, Mansfeld does see an advantage in diversity. “If we don’t find what we need to stand out at the Premium trade fair, then we are flexible enough to look elsewhere. As a small store in the vicinity of Peek & Cloppenburg and Breuninger, we depend on finding something that isn’t main-stream.” Markus Wahl agrees that openness pays off. He will not only visit the Panorama trade show, but also the Bread & Butter and the Premium. “Even if a lot of products on display don’t suit our concept, it’s worthwhile to look beyond your own business.”

No Alternatives

As always, there are also scheduling conflicts in this season’s international trade show calendar. Berlin is in competition with the men’s fashion shows in Milan and the pre-collections in Paris. As a preventive measure, the Premium, the Berliner Salon, and Bernd Schürmann’s showroom have pushed back their Berlin dates by a day to ensure that the retailers specialising in high fashion can visit Berlin on the Friday. Furthermore, some shows are scheduled for the 9th and 10th of July. Petra Fischer doesn’t question Berlin this season. The showrooms in Milan and Paris in June, as well as in Düsseldorf and Munich in July, are fixed dates in her calendar, as is Berlin. This season, Susanne “We currently see no alternative to and no competition for Berlin. No other European location can offer the diversity we need for our jeans and street wear concept.” Stefan Crämer, owner of Crämer & Co

Lindner has decided to travel to the Revolver CPH trade show in Copenhagen, while her son Tim will seek inspiration at the London Fashion Week. After careful consideration, she decided that a short Berlin visit does make sense. “We don’t want to miss anything”, she says. “Berlin is and remains the right city”, KarlHeinz Müller summarises after dropping the Zalando bombshell. “To ensure the city remains in the trade show calendar, we need a new welcoming culture, benevolent support of politicians, and a healthy competition between clearly clustered events.

Everything else weakens Berlin as an international fashion metropolis.”

THE MARKETPL ACE FOR LEADING BRANDS I N T E R N AT I O N A L F A S H I O N T R A D E S H O W | 7 – 9 J U LY 2 0 15 www.panorama-berlin.com

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WHAT'S THE STORY 121

In The Same Boat Limit talks, condition negotiations, and budget pressure are not exactly conducive to fun. In times like these it is smarter than ever to choose humanity over bare numbers.

Text: Martina Müllner.

Illustration: Claudia Meitert@ Caroline Seidler

“It has to be fun again, like it was 25 years ago. If we don’t have fun and our employees don’t have fun, how on earth can our customers ever have fun?” When Frank Häusler, the owner of two multi-brand shops and one franchise store in Immenstadt and Oberstaufen, says this so emphatically, the fashion retailer is not the least bit nostalgic. “One has to face the enormous changes our industry is experiencing. We experience many disappointments, on a daily basis. However, ups and downs are a part of life and keep us from becoming bad at what we do. Those who only experience success, never have a reason to question themselves and change their ways.” The Häuslers have changed more or less everything in their two multi-label stores.

With success: the figures are good. Even a break-in in the spring couldn’t diminish the positive economic development of the multi-label stores. “We decided to continue with the remaining stock, because none of our brands and labels can redeliver. We staged the items as one would in a showroom and communicated the situation quite openly. The result was a real eye-opener for both me and my wife. The desire returned.

The customers were suddenly animated to buy again. The most amazing thing was that we made a decent profit with fewer goods”.

“The customer is over-saturated”, Wilfrid Wetzl, the owner of three Casa Moda stores in the Austrian towns of Steyr, Linz, and St. Pölten, agrees. “Under these circumstances it is completely absurd that a brand would apply pressure in terms of budgets and then demand more every season.

We are not willing to play this game. I stand by that decision, regardless of the consequences.

I would drop any brand that demands unrealistic budgets.”

Seven years ago, he gave in to his passion for fashion and took over the renowned Casa Moda store in Steyr and showed his ambition by adding two more branches in the two aforementioned Austrian provincial capitals. As a lawyer and property tycoon, he is well acquainted with the backgrounds of the larger corporations’ business practices.

However, he has decided to take a stand against them as a fashion retailer. “Corporations exert great pressure, often demand higher budgets from season to season, and lower the margins for independent multi-brand retailers in many other ways, such as scrapping early payment discounts.

We’ve also had to swallow other retrogressions, for instance in terms of reclamations. Let’s not forget that upscale retailers actually built these brands. I “Big brands have agendas and plans they need to fulfil - greed stands above all.” Frank Häusler,

owner Häusler Immenstadt and Oberstaufen

find it utterly reprehensible that those retailers are dropped like a hot potato when it comes to optimising profits.”

Frank Häusler also sees a lack of partnerships at eye level and real dialogue as a problem. “In the past, the industry literally begged

us retailers for our feedback. Our needs were important and the industry had an open ear for our issues. It has become difficult to find an established brand that “The customer is over-saturated, it is completely absurd that a brand would apply pressure in terms of budgets.” Wilfrid Wetzl, owner Casa Moda

still does that. Only the smaller, owner-run labels uphold this dialogue. All the others have agendas and plans they need to fulfil - greed stands above all.

At the time of the order, they already have plans to make us order an x-amount more. This leaves no room for us to communicate what we want from the collection.”

Tit For Tat

“Partner of the retail industry” has become a much quoted phrase that is often misunderstood by both sides. While the industry tries to gain as much influence as possible at the PoS under this guise, the retailers try to palm off as much risk as possible onto their suppliers. “When you see the benefits granted to the large, prestigious retailers, it’s hard not to feel sick. An exciting, small newcomer label simply can’t match this, and, in my opinion, it shouldn’t even try to.

What they often demand is pure commission business”, explains Marion Hoferer, the owner of the fashion agency ModeIst. She has replaced the big names in her brand portfolio with real product specialists. With the latter she maintains a relationship that goes way beyond the classic agent-manufacturer relationship.

“I inject my personal experience, gather feedback from the market, actively contribute to the collec-

tion, and am responsible for the public image.” Marion Hoferer sees the brands she promotes in co-operation with the brand owners - the producers - as her babies. This means she will only consider a very deliberate market placement. “Today, you can’t push, or even extort, the customers anymore. They’d turn their back on you. Don’t get me wrong, that’s a good thing. At the same time, in my capacity as an agent, I need the backbone to say no to a retailer who only “Today, you can’t push, or even extort, the customers anymore.

They’d turn their back on you. Don’t get me wrong, that’s a good thing.” Marion Hoferer,

owner ModeIst

wants to order four jackets by a brand such as Montgomery. In that case, I’d rather ask that particular retailer to look for those four leather jackets at one of its existing suppliers. It is important to maintain an open dialogue and essential to show each other respect.”

Good Relationship = Good Business

“I don’t want a supplier to do my job for me. Sadly, an exchange is only possible in theory with many of our suppliers, mainly because hardly any of them still stock goods in their warehouses. It’s pure luck to find that a supplier actually has the items one would like to reorder. This means we have to make precise pre-orders”, says Markus Daniels, the owner of Daniels stores in Cologne, Bonn, and Munich.

“The risk is clearly on the side of the retailers, who have to cover all bases with their pre-purchases, albeit that a reorder shortly after the sale launch would style in progress 315

122 WHAT'S THE STORY

be so sensible. Wouldn’t it be within the competence set of a medium-sized company to stock fabrics and yarns to ensure it can reproduce during a season?

Otherwise the Massimo Duttis “Our job has become much more complex.

One has to be on alert all season.” Markus Daniels,

Inhaber Daniels

of this world will always be a step ahead of us”, the multi-label retailer explains. In terms of his product range, Markus Daniels “increasingly focuses on specialists and mid-sized family businesses, mainly because their products are not only more special, but are also more distinctive in comparison to the product range offered by large brands and vertically integrated suppliers.”

Alongside style, availability, and an excellent price-performance ratio, the quality of co-operation is an equally important selection criterion. “Our job has become much more complex. One has to be on alert all season and every mistake is thrown straight back into one’s face. In this context, I naturally also expect a high level of professionalism from my suppliers. If I have to decide between two knitwear collections, it is clear that I will prefer the one with whom I have a good working relationship all year round. This approach works best with labels that only want to work with a limited number of retailers and don’t merely strive for growth at all costs. It’s fun to discover such brands.”

Creating Shortage Without Alienating

“We live from selling, not from imposing our products on retailers. I have never imposed a budget on a customer and I have never rejected even the smallest order. I see it as my duty - and the duty of my production partners - to ensure that I can supply exciting products in small quantities, at realistic prices and delivered punctually”, says Valentino de Luca while explaining the philosophy of his brands Lucky de Luca, Barb’One, B36, and Brooklyn Dumbo. “How does that work, you ask? One needs to talk to each other. In the same way I don’t put my 315 style in progress

customers under pressure, I also don’t put my suppliers under pressure. I am there and I talk to people. I don’t write e-mails, I travel there. There is always a way to make it possible. It is definitely not possible via the ‘producer squeezing’ practiced by many large brands. The result of demanding ever cheaper production terms are products that look as cheap as the process itself.

This doesn’t make anyone look good, in both a figurative and a literal sense. A Rolex at the price of a Swatch simply doesn’t exist - period.” Whenever Valentino de Luca travels to the production locations and production countries in general, his discontent with the current fashion system makes his blood boil. “I always say it is easy to exploit people.

This greed is infecting the entire system. The money these companies save in terms of sourcing is “Return policies, writeoff participations, and other things. I’d rather eat sawdust than being forced to earn a living like that.” Valentino de Luca,

owner Lucky de Luca

not passed down to the consumers. It merely maximises profits.

Naturally, I am also pleased when the business is performing well and the profit rises, but only in moderation. Even if I could afford 20 Porsches like my model 356 from 1957, I could still only drive one at a time.” Valentino de Luca’s conclusion is consistent: “I create shortages quite deliberately. I only produce what was pre-ordered, not more.” He stubbornly resists the courting of large customers. “They would only ruin my label. They only “A good shepherd does not exchange his entire herd once one animal starts lagging.” Michi

Klemera, founder Luis Trenker

join the party when it is in full flow and then start making demands such as return policies, write-off participations, and other things. I’d rather eat sawdust than being forced to earn a living like that.”

Feather Your Own Nest

“A good shepherd does not

exchange his entire herd once one animal starts lagging.” This statement can only come from someone who loves the mountains and breathes that particular lifestyle. Michi Klemera, the mastermind behind the Alpine lifestyle brand Luis Trenker, says about himself: “I had to learn to be patient. In the current market environment, we simply need to be patient, have confidence in our staff, and have the confidence to believe we are doing the right thing.” He has been faithful to many of his suppliers for ten or fifteen years. “We don’t change partners to save a few Euros.” However, Luis Trenker asks the same questions as everyone else: “We question every millimetre of every cog in our system, constantly. This is the only way to stay alert and to survive in this competitive environment.”

His motto: “Stand together!”

This motto doesn’t only apply to his customers and professional confidants. “I quite deliberately seek a dialogue with inspiring fellow entrepreneurs such as room with a view’s Christian Obojes and Komet und Helden’s Henrik Soller, to name just two examples. It is an intellectual and mental exchange without the pressure of doing business with each other. I am convinced that such dialogues always result in something. The mutual appreciation alone is reason enough to seek such exchanges. Those who are successful in our industry have always sought such exchanges, but many more should do it on a regular basis.”

Common Cause

When an industry is being battered by rough winds from all sides, the market participants start treating each other roughly too. Or do they? Stephan Lanzer, the owner of Knilli in Graz, has always enjoyed identifying the bigger picture. One day he dared to do what would have, at the least, dented the pride of others.

“I wrote to Wilfrid Wetzl, the owner of the three Casa Moda stores, and asked him whether he’d be interested in a co-operation.” The proposition wasn’t merely a nonsensical friendship between entrepreneurs, but a full-fledged strategic partnership including joint buying and a synchronisation of inventory

management. The result is that customers in Steyr can now purchase what is still available in Graz or Kitzbühel. “We will also reflect this showroom effect online. The project has just started and the ultimate goal is a joint online store.” “During the first meeting, we discussed the partnership. When we met a second time, we sealed the deal”, Wilfrid Wetzl reveals.

Both entrepreneurs are in agreement that it is easier to face the challenges caused by the changes within the stationary retail industry together than alone.

“The partnership increases the buying volume and we hope that “If you don’t have trust, there’s no need to enter into a partnership.”

Stephan Lanzer, owner Knilli

it will lead to us being perceived more by the suppliers”, the Casa Moda owner explains. The plan is to forge a co-operation that signals strength: “We need to defy the mono-brand stores and the online competition by offering exciting product ranges and convincing advice of the highest quality”, Wilfrid Wetzl says. Stephan Lanzer adds: “At the same time, we need to match what mono-brand stores and online shops can offer, namely a product availability that goes far beyond what is shown in the store. When customers enter our sales floor, they need to be sure that they are coming to a place where they can get everything they want. If this isn’t the case, the customers are - quite understandably - upset.” In order to implement this, it requires transparency on both sides. “Naturally, the respective financial results are now out in the open for both parties. But if you don’t have trust, there’s no need to enter into a partnership.”

Fashion Trade Show www.the-gallery-duesseldorf.com

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We Are Ruining Our Market!

Every store offers the same goods in abundance, mostly even at a reduced price. We are stuck in a self-induced devaluation spiral. How can we break free from it?

Text: Nicoletta Schaper.

Illustration:Claudia Meitert@ Caroline Seidler

Product pressure causes an increase of revenue! From the 1980s until well into the 1990s, this was a faithfully obeyed rule within our industry. “At that time, it actually worked; many retailers based their success on that strategy”, says Torsten Müller, the owner of the distribution agency Room Nine. “Today, one only sees comparable goods supplied by the usual suspects, all the way from Flensburg to Garmisch. This applies to both stationary retailers and e-retailers. The result: boredom and dwindling revenue figures.”

This is the worst case scenario, because the element of desire has been lost. “Desire can only be created when customers have the feeling that they could miss out if they waste too much time”, explains Florian Ranft, the owner of the distribution agency Komet und Helden and the Munich-based store Stereo Muc. “Today, you can even choose from the full range when the prices have been reduced.”

“We are devaluating ourselves”, adds Evelyn Hammerström, the owner of Jades and More Jades. “Larger competitors in the same city accelerate the price reduction madness; it feels as if customers are granted generous discounts as soon as the season starts. This places immense

pressure on all market participants. It’s not fun when you only have four to six weeks of regular sales period. It also doesn’t work, because neither the weather nor the customers’ moods play into this strategy.”

“In addition to the increase of retail space in general, online retailing has experienced explosive growth over the last three years”, says Harm Hesterberg, the managing director of Stiesing Bremen. “Furthermore, the industry is no longer in control of its distribution channels, mainly because it is spreading its products over the entire market with a metaphorical watering can.”

Malte Kötteritz, the owner and managing director of the sales agency Heritage Agents, shares the view that the industry’s problems start with distribution: “The red price phase is controlled via a deliberately high level of incoming goods. Quite a few renowned brands supply the retail industry with a lot of funds for write-offs.

This is how they meet quotas and generate revenue with price reductions.”

Outlets are already the largest source of income for brands such as Polo Ralph Lauren and “Personally, I would be bothered if I kept on seeing the same advertisements in all the magazines. That doesn’t make a product more desirable in my eyes.”

Markus Meindl, managing director of Meindl Authentic Luxury

others. Minimum budgets, which are already commonplace with successful brands, increase

the product pressure even more.

“In the past, we had two delivery dates per season. Today, we have four for pre-collections and the main collection”, Evelyn Hammerström explains. “Everyone defines their respective budget precisely. One month after the pre-collection, one orders the main collection, which is then delivered four to six weeks later.

You have to get your purchasing strategy right; there is no room for errors. The business has become more serious.”

“The store is your brand.

It is important to have an identity and to stand for something.” Peter Boy Weber, managing director of Modehaus Ehlers Wyk on Föhr

On the retail side, the processes are equally driven. For example, some retailers pre-empt the industry with private labels on too large a scale or base their decisions solely on sales quotas and profit margins. “It’s all about raw numbers and maximising sales per square metre”, Florian Ranft says. “The large retailers have no other choice, otherwise they wouldn’t survive the next five years. The large retail spaces in major cities are too expensive to be managed differently. At the same time, this offers smaller retail concepts an opportunity to differentiate and specialise.”

Down with Comparability

It all begins with the product range selection. Evelyn Hammerström believes that speed is an important differentiation factor for a trend-conscious retail concept like Jades. That’s why she

orders interim collections such as the co-operation between Adidas and Pharell Williams, which was sold out at More Jades within a day, and the blogger collection

by Anine Bing, which Hammerström spontaneously ordered during the season. “I need to have a head start”, she explains.

“From here to Cologne, I stock designer brands such as Isabel Marant and Balmain exclusively. This means my investment budget is high. But it’s worth it, because I generate good sales despite the brands having their own web shops. Customers enjoy shopping at our store, mainly because they value our atmosphere and excellent service.” Said service, in combination with a large range of denim products, makes More Jades even more unique in Düsseldorf. “Jeans only sell well with excellent service, which is why we train our staff on a regular basis”, Evelyn Hammerström reveals.

Torsten Müller, who manages three womenswear stores named Room Nine alongside his agency, now avoids product range overlaps with his competitors in Bonn. “Everything that is a little different, sells well. Examples are labels such as Bash, the crazier items of Maison Scotch, and knitwear by Jeff. I believe that this is the reason we still exist.

We react to market impulses and base our purchasing decisions on emotions.”

Emotion and Storytelling

Harm Hesterberg also believes in emotions. The Stiesing range is enriched with storytelling products and handcrafted labels such as Lederlinge, Maglia, William style in progress 315

126 WHAT'S THE STORY

“We Need To Be Unique!”

How can the stationary retail industry excel through its product range?

Helmut Eder from Kitzbühel, one of the seminal fashion retailers, answers the question in this interview with style in progress.

“Everyone is racing against each other; it’s too much a matter of displacement and destruction. We have also not yet found the perfect strategy to counteract the cannibalism on the market.” Harm Hesterberg,

Text: Nicoletta Schaper.

Photo: Helmut Eder

Everything is available everywhere. How can stationary fashion retailers still excel today? I think the indus-

try needs to be special. I believe our stores offer a good mixture of designers, newcomers, and witty new labels. The latter can be items by labels such as Poeme Bohemien, Common Projects, and Marsèll. We decided to turn our back on large designers such as Gucci, Prada, and Dolce & Gabbana, mainly because we don’t want to be comparable and because I, personally, don’t like the high budget pressure. I always tell the agents what I can and can’t offer. It doesn’t make any sense to order products that don’t suit us.

owner of Stiesing

on the island Föhr, for the last four years. It was a bold move to sever ties with former bestsellers such as Polo Ralph Lauren and Moncler. “Today, I refuse brands that allow price reductions too early”, Weber says. “I prefer to focus on more rare products.

The result is that I make more profit with less revenue. We must abandon the idea that everyone can serve everybody.” Peter Boy Weber senses that the customer awareness for quality over quantity is on the rise. “Customers would rather buy two high-end

Is this consistency the reason for your success? We try

to be perfect, from product to service. We want our customers to feel comfortable and recommend us. We offer something for an 18 year old girl, as well as an 80 year old woman. Our menswear store also stocks items that will make both the classic and fashionable customers happy.

If I can only serve one type of customer, the air becomes very thin.

Is exclusivity still decisive even though one can obtain literally everything over the Internet? I would say it is. I do

want to have the brands I stock exclusively in that location.

Your customers come from all over the place though…

Of course, we also notice the early price reductions everywhere else. A 30% discount in early May is absolute madness! We need to turn back the wheel and return to a system that, for instance, does not allow price reductions in the designer segment before Christmas. The show collections are delivered very late 315 style in progress

Lockie, and Mackintosh. “We communicate our identity via our own magazine, for which celebrities are willing to model readily”, Hesterberg explains.

“We need to take our customers on a journey and make the soul of our business visible.”

With a similar motivation, Peter Boy Weber has changed the product range of Ehlers, located

Helmut Eder is a passionate retailer and runs a menswear store, a women’s fashion store, and a sporty fashion store in Kitzbühel. www.helmuteder.com

anyway, which leaves us only two or three weeks for regular sales.

There are no reduced items in our stores, out of principle. We only shift our goods to our outlet after one season.

Is it a “no go” for you when a brand is also available at Zalando? Naturally, I wouldn’t

be too happy if a brand such as Isabel Marant was available at Zalando. The online segment is also clearly indispensable. However, I believe that customers are increasingly looking for exciting things at specialised retailers.

The retail industry suffers from a lack of customer frequency at times. How do you tackle this issue? We always

try to remain fresh and special.

Only recently, we had a tailoring day in our menswear store.

Custom manufacturing is a really

hot topic. Moreover, I believe that our customers come to us because of our well-trained team of advisors who have a tangible love for their profession. Our revenue figures prove us right.

What do you recommend other retailers to do? Less

is more! One simply can’t have all products of any brand. One should set beautiful items in scene properly. When an agent points out his bestsellers, that information is not decisive for me. We have a more athletic and earthy buying strategy for Kitzbühel, in line with the town itself. We will continue to do that in the future.

items instead of five low-quality items. The high-end purchases can be a pullover by Villa Gaia, which is manufactured on a manual knitting machine, a belt by Werkstatt Munich, or a cashmere scarf by 8 Eden & Avenue.” Even though customers need to invest more in such items, they have the potential to become favourite pieces. More importantly, such items need to have a tangible association with their country of origin.

No Expiration Date

Meindl Authentic Luxury stands for durable, sustainable leather clothing, which is manufactured in Germany with the appropriate expertise and a lot of attention to detail. “We try to pursue the slow path and to retain our customers in the long term, mainly via the enjoyment of the product”, says Markus Meindl, who has the likes of Lodenfrey Munich, Springer’s Erben Vienna, and Kraftstoff Meilen on his customer list. “Virtually all our products are timeless and some can be re-ordered up to three seasons later, provided that the raw materials are available in the necessary quality. This natural capacity limitation is one of the contributing factors to the desirability of our items.”

“The retail industry often forgets the desirability angle, while the press makes things uninteresting too quickly. Too many retailers become uneasy when it isn’t cold “Brand-side parties that offer conditions and unhealthy withdrawal volumes don’t believe in the product.” Florian Ranft,

owner of Komet und Helden

in August and start reducing prices in October because they no longer believe in a cold winter. This ultimately means that the customers are no longer willing to spend money.”

Florian Ranft is aware of the fact that many requirement purchases are made in the red price phase.

The last winter only got cold in January. In his own stores, Woolrich products were sold at a regular price until February not only the successful models such as Arctic Parka and Eskimo, which are never sold at a discount. “We literally sat out the

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“Customers are Becoming Immune Against Price Reductions” There are sales everywhere, mainly because there are no discount laws in the US. Jennifer Mankins may have a remedy against the price reduction madness. Before opening her fashion store named Bird, she worked as a buyer at Barneys in New York and co-founded a fashion label. Her online shop www.shopbird.com is equally successful with brands such as Alexander Wang, Isabel Marant, and Marni.

Interview: Petrina Engelke.

Photos: Bird

Mrs Mankins, how do fashion stores in the US deal with the online competition?

In New York, we have always competed with the biggest and best stores; they range from well-established department stores such as Bergdorf Goodman and Barneys to new online shops such as net-a-porter.com.

But rather than worrying about things one cannot influence anyway, I believe the most productive and effective approach is to reflect on what can actually be changed - that’s why I focus on my business and my designers.

Nevertheless, I do always know about the sales and advertising strategies of my business rivals.

At Bird, I try to create a unique experience to ensure that my customers buy from me, even if they could find it elsewhere too.

Today, customers are very aware of the fact that the coveted dress can be on sale from one day to the next.

How do you ensure they don’t simply wait for a price reduction? As a specialised retailer,

I don’t have as much stock or as many units per model as my larger competitors. I don’t want ten women in Park Slope to wear the same dress. My customers know that they need to buy as soon as they see something beautiful; the next time they visit, the

After more than 16 years in the fashion business, Jennifer Mankins still relies on instinct and curiosity.

item in the desired size is often already gone.

In the US, there are many types of price reductions such as BOGO, discounts for teachers at the end of the holidays, online codes, etc.

What’s your approach? I be-

lieve the market is being flooded with so many price reductions that the customers are becoming immune against them. Unlike many department stores, our discounts and promotions don’t come thick and fast. At Bird, we normally have a sale on Memorial Day (May) and on Black Friday (November), as well as after public holidays. I believe the “race to the bottom”, as J. Crew’s Mickey Drexler likes calling it, is definitely not sustainable.

In other industries the price is high when the demand is high. However, the price for down jackets is lowered in February. Will that ever change? I am in constant

dialogue with designers and store owners about how we can change the existing system to ensure we have the right products in the store at the right time. I don’t want to have fur coats delivered in June, when the weather is finally improving and my customers are eager to buy summer dresses. The entire schedule for production and delivery was mercilessly pushed forward by

warm weather in November and December, but the Woolrich customers didn’t even ask for price reductions”, he explains. “The customers don’t see a Woolrich jacket as a trend product, but as a classic that they purchase for more than a season.”

Yves-Oliver Wilke, who teamed up with his brother Dennis to create the Brosbi concept with contemporary menswear and also works as an advisor for product range and retail concepts, believes that desirability is always also dependent on the price. “All sides must steer clear of premature sales to make sure everyone “Actually, the retailers in a city should sit down at a table and re-introduce rules for price reduction phases. What we are doing right now, is absolutely unhealthy for all involved parties.”

Evelyn Hammerström, owner of Jades and More Jades

can make sufficient profits. All of it depends on how we can give a product the value it deserves.”

Brosbi is stocked by approximately 30 retailers, including Voo Store Berlin, Harvest Munich, Brooks Bielefeld, and Dictionary Milan. By contrast, the young brand has decided to stop co-operating with commercial formats such as Zalando and Urban Outfitters from the upcoming autumn/winter season onwards. “The early price reductions bother us”, Yves-Oliver Wilke explains. “A mid-season sale that begins in April does not make sense for our brand.”

the larger department stores to facilitate their large promotions.

I don’t think that’s sustainable. It doesn’t help anyone, not even the customers! I think it’s a question of working with designers. We have to communicate what the market really needs, then we’ll hopefully return gradually to where the flow of goods is in line with the demand.

Wilke believes that the right approach is to make the product ranges more exciting. “Voo Store, for instance, thinks in lifestyles and focuses on everything that is beautiful. That may be books or a very special shower gel. It can also create suspense to not only display sneakers on the designated shoe wall. In general, the retail industry still thinks in departments and sections too much. There is a lack of courage and consistency.”

Responsibility

Malte Kötteritz would like to see more responsibility and advice on the distribution side, mainly to ensure that the retailers’ product ranges don’t look too similar.

“A collection like Lardini doesn’t need more than three customers in a city the size of Munich. If I serve Engelhorn in Mannheim, I don’t need another customer in that town. In such a house we can work in depth”, says Kötteritz, who, just like his partner Michael Brockmann, worked at Holy Fashion Group for eight years. Their agency Heritage Agents, which is in its third season of operation, quite deliberately focuses on owner-managed brands. “We enjoy working with many families that still live for their products”, Malte Kötteritz adds. “As a second step, we try to communicate the creativity and the added value of the products to the retail industry, also via training sessions. We enjoy immense appreciation because we care. It hasn’t been enough to merely do your job during the “Reyer Hallein, The Listener Frankfurt, and Stereo Muc generate a desire to buy. These retailers keep their product ranges exciting and have sharpened their respective profiles.”

Malte Kötteritz, managing director of Heritage Agent

order phase for quite some time.”

Pinko, which is a portfolio brand of the fashion agency Aco Mode Germany, is a fashionable collection that has dedicated itself to meeting the needs of individual markets and retail customers with an adjusted rhythm. “The brand is very aware of the challenge to put together the right style in progress 315

128 WHAT'S THE STORY

product range due to its own retail operations”, says Michael Schulz, the managing director of Aco Mode Germany. “We afford the customers the possibility to create an ever-changing range of goods by utilising targeted “A brand has to question whether a company like Zalando is the right customer for it. The fact that Karstadt and Kaufhof are in crisis shows that one cannot serve everyone.”

Yves-Oliver Wilke, founder of Brosbi

delivery cycles. This means the pre-collection and main collection are delivered on the usual dates, but the deliveries need to be topically and smaller seasonal flash programmes need to be additionally implemented. We also offer the option to exchange low-sellers during a season to counteract the product and price pressure.”

Timing

Has the industry learned its lesson regarding timing? The perfect timing at the point of sale often decides whether a product triggers a feeling of desire in the customer. However, the perfect timing differs from case to case. “The well-informed Jades customers wants to have the goods at once”, says Evelyn Hammerström. Peter Boy Weber, on the other hand, would like to receive the winter range early and the summer range late, in line with the tourism business on the island of Föhr, which is counter-cyclical to the cities on the mainland. “I need to start showcasing spring/summer items from mid-January onwards, even if I still sold warm clothing in March”, he explains. “Sometimes the new items fill up the warehouse, but we manage our stock to make the customers believe that we are constantly adding new products to our range.” To this end, Weber re-decorates his store twice a week. The average tourist visits the island for ten days and enjoys seeing a new design twice a week.

Cleaning Without Killing Desirability

Eventually the old goods have to make way for new ones, which is impossible without cleaning.

315 style in progress

But what’s the best strategy? “We leave the goods at the point of sale for a long time and exchange them among our stores, thereby creating new settings”, Torsten Müller says. “We moved the winter items to our outlet at the beginning of February. The autumn window has to open when school starts in August. In the past, we often reduced prices too early. We had quite a good management concept this season, which is why we are not forced to participate in the hectic rush for early price reductions.”

Peter Boy Weber is one of the retailers who banish reduced items from the main store to the outlet. “If you purchase emotionally, you’ll always have some stock left over”, Peter Boy Weber says. “However, I believe that emotion is becoming more important again. The customers have to find the items beautiful and learn how to value them again. For instance, one would never dream of visiting a restaurant, praising the menu and the service, and then asking if the price is negotiable.”

“I see a lot of mistakes being made on both sides. We also purchase impulsively at times.

However, we wouldn’t exist if we didn’t.”

Torsten Müller, distribution agency Room Nine and owner of three Room Nine stores in Bonn

“I Work with Brands the Giants Don’t Have” Is this paradise? In Belgium, clearance sales are still regulated by the state. In her interview with style in progress, Els Peeters, the owner of the shoe shop Schoenen Loop in Merelbeke, explains why early price reductions are not rampant (yet). At the end of 2015, she will re-open her store as an omni-channel concept with a Brick2Click system.

She stocks brands such as Birkenstock, Candice Cooper, Floris van Bommel, and United Nude.

Interview: Kay Alexander Plonka.

Photos: Els Peeters

Price reductions during the season are commonplace in many European countries. What is different in Belgium? The Belgian gov-

ernment has imposed a price reduction ban for the period before the sale phase. It is forbidden to grant special discounts for one month before the regular clearance sale periods in January and July. The retailers are monitored by treasury inspectors, who have the right to impose fines of up to 60,000 Euros in the case of an infringement.

Els Peeters is in the process of re-conceptualising her store from scratch. A well-conceived omnichannel approach makes it vital to collaborate with brands that can guarantee swift additional deliveries. www.schoenenloop.be

typical mid-season sale month for many retailers. Most stores grant a 20% discount. It is then forbidden to grant discounts in December and June. Only measures such as “Buy two items and get 30% off” are permitted during those periods. In January, most retailers start with a 30% discount and end with a 50% discount. 70% discounts are only granted by outlets or on goods from the previous season. In some villages, people organise small trade fairs or street markets, where price reductions are permitted. There, goods from previous seasons are often offered with high discounts.

situation? A 60,000 Euro fine is peanuts for major suppliers, especially compared to the publicity they enjoy when they violate the ban. At best, the media might even report about it.

How does this work in practice? November is the

How do large online retailers and vertically integrated providers deal with the

How do you personally deal with the pressure to reduce prices? First of all, I focus on a

different type of customer than the larger suppliers. My customers don’t enjoy buying online or in large department stores anonymously, mainly because they would become frustrated should the goods not meet their expectations or should they not receive professional advice.

Smalltalk, personal and honest advice, a distinct shopping experience, and a perfectly fitting shoe in the right size are worth a

WHAT'S THE STORY 129

lot more than supposedly saving a few Euros.

“We Don’t Follow Trends!”

Based on which criteria do you choose your suppliers?

I decided to work with brands that the giants don’t include in their product ranges. This means I don’t compete with large online retailers directly. The collections I stock, and the models I select from them, are very different to those of the average retailers.

You won’t find the shoes we stock everywhere. We focus on timeless, comfortable models and prefer to sell high-priced, high-quality shoes. I also have to be able to rely on the brand itself, otherwise I can’t offer my customers the excellent service they expect. In our new store, we will only work with brands that meet these criteria and offer a B2B platform that ensures I can re-order certain shoes for a customer swiftly and free of charge.

Munich-based label Distorted People got off to a very successful start, even though its founders - Matthias Gnilka, Huy Vu, and Dung Vu - don’t care about classic seasonal rhythms at all. Matthias Gnilka explains how this works.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper.

Photos: Distorted People

You have described swimming against the current as your recipe for success. How did that come about? Ten years ago, we em-

barked on a kind of party tour with Distorted People. Monthly themed parties earned us a strong foothold in the fashion scene of Munich. Later, we added an online shopping channel, where we offered printed shirts that were only sold at a reduced price right at the start. This channel developed into a real online shop in 2008. The principle remained the same. Who bought a shirt within the first 48 hours, got it at a reduced pre-sale price of 16.95 Euros. After that first period, it cost 24.95 Euros. We did exactly the opposite of what is seen as common behaviour in the fashion industry! We have earned the reputation of being a creative clique and we sold no less than 45,000 shirts via Brands for Friends, albeit at margins that were too small. Advertising on MTV and DMax generated

The driving force behind Distorted People is a creative collective bound by both work and friendship.

traffic, but little conversion.

At the end of 2010, we had all become disheartened, but we did reach the realisation that growth requires investors.

What did you change? We changed the style and sourcing, we searched for new production partners, and sought out investors who believed in us.

Today’s cuts and the quieter, timeless style in vintage washes embody who we are and what we represent. Thanks to two investors, who support us on very friendly and professional terms, we were able to invest in growth, which led to the opening of our first store in Munich in 2011. We remained true to our philosophy. We merely keep doing what we ourselves like, regardless of trends and seasons.

Many items of our complete collection are available throughout the year. New products were sold out quickly and couldn’t be reproduced quickly enough. This scarcity principle increased the demand even more.

Distorted People is now taking the next step by appointing Komet und Helden as distributor. How do the retailers cope without seasonal rhythms? In 2014, we started

supplying Konen Munich. Since then, they have increased their

order twentyfold because the products are selling so well.

70 percent of our delivery to Ludwig Beck was sold off within the first week. To ensure that we are capable of supplying a larger network of retailers, we produce more in advance. 75 percent are NOS items. Next year, we aim to expand our network in Germany, Switzerland, and Austria from the current 45 points of sale to 200. We also have plans to open two own store and seven franchise shops. We will maintain our self-determined cycles and the retailers are cool with it. …also in terms of sale periods? The surplus we have our-

selves, is sold via a small discount area in the online shop. For us, that isn’t a constant revenue element. We have also introduced a membership model to our online shop. For an annual fee of 29.95 Euros, our customers receive a 20% discount per purchase on all items. Furthermore, one can pre-order exclusively, which strengthens the sense of being part of a community. We have an extremely high repurchase rate.

Does the online sale not bother the stationary re­ tailers? So far nobody has

complained. Online retailing is subject to completely different laws. Right now, our products also rotate extremely fast at the stationary retailers, which means that sales are not really an issue. It’s an absolute luxury situation! style in progress 315

130 WHAT'S THE STORY

Wolfgang Joop is the prototype of what Wunderkind strives to embody – an authentic, German, and intellectual collection that is marketable nonetheless.

315 style in progress

WHAT'S THE STORY 131

Reinventing the Wunderkind Sometimes one meets twice in life. A chance encounter at the airport brought Peter Kappler and Wolfgang Joop, who know each other from their time at Joop, back together. Kappler, who previously worked for Strenesse, Hugo Boss, and - most recently - managed the Swiss brand Jet-Set and the Italian label Dondup, has been tasked to add economic competence to Wolfgang Joop’s luxury brand Wunderkind. This could be a dream line-up that leads to international commercial success for Wunderkind.

Interview: Stephan Huber and Quynh Tran. Photos: Wunderkind

Wunderkind was a project that consciously adopted a German culture right from the start.

Wofgang Joop: Many circumstances have been difficult, but it has always been easy to create the collection itself. It must have something to do with the spirits with whom one can identify.

I didn’t open a newspaper and didn’t have to hire trend scouts to trigger this emotion. I believe Wunderkind has something that we Germans normally search for in vain: authenticity.

It can’t be the same it is now; it has to stand for what it is authentically.

One might wonder why you don’t enjoy life instead of working on. Where does this hunger stem from?

WJ: That’s a question you don’t need to ask. I enjoy my life because I am allowed to do what I want to do. It is a privilege to be independent and to be able to create fashion. I do it because I have something to say and make my language work effectively.

Fashion is a universal language,

like Esperanto. Why are we so fascinated by fashion? Because it is unpredictable, it’s a little moody, and sometimes even frivolous. It is everything that normally scares Germany.

images. The artist Britta Thie once said: “Today, everybody makes their own mood board and everyone is an individual campaign.” If I rearrange my Instagram and Facebook accounts on a daily basis, I create a campaign and an image.

Why does Germany have this rather peculiar perception of fashion? It’s almost a kind of non-perception.

WJ: Germany lost its cultural identity because of the war. The Holocaust eliminated the majority of the country’s style makers and cultural bodies. Fashion is an inherent part of culture in countries with an uninterrupted history. Germany still has this gaping wound, which will hopefully be healed by future generations. After all, Berlin was on par with Paris as a style-defining fashion metropolis before the war.

Peter Kappler: I would rather describe it as a different perception.

We Germans feel a little insecure in terms of fashion. You ask why Wolfgang Joop is still working.

In the US or in Italy, nobody would ever dream of asking Ralph Lauren or Giorgio Armani why they don’t choose to simply enjoy their lives.

WJ: Here nobody would ask a writer or artist why he is writing another book or painting another picture. Art is holy, but fashion is somewhere between arts and crafts, an area that hasn’t been properly identified yet. However, you can create a human image within the fashion world with expressiveness, experience, and artistic standards.

As everyone knows by now, the driving force behind Wunderkind is a human being.

You are trying to prove that it is possible to realise a project like Wunderkind in our complex cultural history in the context of German tradition.

The clothing culture is screened rationally due to globalisation and digitalisation. To what extent does that influence you?

WJ: Yes, it is possible, as long as you show commitment and determination. We are proving that. Helmut Lang proved it too. His collection consisted of Viennese coffee-house characters. It was dark, intellectual, and Jewish. It mirrored the image of a sunken Vienna. That was an identity that swept us off our feet because it stood in contrast to everything else; it was a contradiction. Jil Sander worked in contrast to a readyto-wear range that was lush and loud, while Saint Laurent was successful because it created a human image that is perceived as frivolous, cool, and different.

Today, one wouldn’t consider any of the aforementioned to be cool anymore, because they have turned into headline fashion very quickly.

Today, the changes in fashion occur much faster.

WJ: The world has changed, mainly because we now have a smart phone in our hand.

Everything has changed. The youth is very interested in fashion. We communicate via

WJ: I don’t allow myself to be influenced. In the past, people were happy about fashion because they had to wait for it.

It’s similar to a long distance relationship in which one is separated and longs to see the other.

There is an eruption of emotions when one is finally reunited. This eruption of emotions doesn’t happen anymore.

Is there a way to create new desire?

WJ: For me, luxury is a philosophical concept. There is no product that stands for luxury. A crocodile bag is a crime against nature for one person and an exciting product for the next.

Luxury is sovereignty and the freedom to treat oneself to things that one has little of and might even seem irrational.

How do you plan to create real value in our time of upheaval?

WJ: Today’s main task is to develop what I call maximalism, meaning one strives to get the maximum out of the resources one has. I can look back at the last ten years and say that nothing at Wunderkind has decreased in value. If I pick a pattern from 2003, I can still wear it. Today, we can utilise the incredible potential of this pool of patterns.

That’s my general approach, to build a future based on this pool.

For me, Wunderkind has always been a visual world. I wanted style in progress 315

132 WHAT'S THE STORY

to pitch my images against the German monotony. I wanted something Bohemian and fragile.

I told my team a story every season. For the first collection in Paris, the story evolved around the sleeping beauty awakening from her slumber. She fetches the faded, embroidered silk dresses from her cupboard, and puts on a hat. She strolls into town, even though there is no clear motive for her to do so.

The motive is the feeling. Here people always wonder for what purpose something has been manufactured and when one should wear it. Unfortunately, we don’t learn that things should be seen in the context of one’s own feelings.

Do you believe this might be a way to break free from the seasonal nature of fashion?

in line with market conditions without making it commercial.

We don’t make it commercial, but we make it understandable.

We have the capital, the management, the distribution network, and we don’t depend on financial investors.

What is your line-up for your first season together?

PK: We cover Germany, Austria, and Switzerland with an in-house sales team, while all other markets are covered by our newly established platform in Milan. On the 19th of June, we premiered our 200-piece “Wunderkind-Collection” in our permanent showroom in Milan.

During the Premium trade show we presented it in Villa Wunderkind in Potsdam, and later in both Munich and Paris.

WJ: In some way we already do that with our pre-collection. We have a global market for Wunderkind, with product groups that can be mixed. However, it’s also important to offer products that are not niche products.

That’s why I am so glad to have Peter to help me get out of the niche. In Peter Kappler, I have found someone who has understood that we create a collection that has triggered high expectations, with a high degree of identity, as a principle marketing idea.

WJ: Nothing was planned. I met Peter at exactly the time when I wanted and needed changes.

PK: Our paths crossed unexpectedly at Ancona Airport after eight years. I flew to Ancona every Monday. Wolfgang Joop flew there once in a lifetime, on a Tuesday. That’s the one and only time I flew in on a Tuesday and we bumped into each other. It’s quite bizarre really.

Which markets are of interest to you?

Do you think that the takeover of the fashion industry by the financial sector is the most damaging recent development?

Fashion is also about commercial success. How do you achieve this?

315 style in progress

PK: The runway is communication, while the pre-collection is the business side of the company.

In the case of comparable brands such as Celiné and others, for instance, the pre-collection accounts for 90 percent of sales.

Wunderkind has so far only presented runway collections, which are very difficult to implement in an economic manner. This is why we have added this economic element, the 90 percent so to speak. The difference is that these items can be multiplied and are priced more moderately.

Wool trousers, for instance, cost 400 Euros, while a dress costs between 600 and 1,000 Euros.

Coats set you back between 1,200 and 1,500 Euros.

PK: We are having a very close look at Italy and also Eastern Europe. Despite the crisis, we are interested in the Ukraine and Russia, as well as Japan and Southeast Asia. We want to avoid dissipating our energies and are good at assessing what we are capable of. We are not ready for the US market yet. We still have many other issues to tackle, regardless of the collection itself. We have enhanced our sales network and set up the structures for the new collection.

We manufacture exclusively in Italy and Germany, because of the authenticity and history.

Was your meeting pure coincidence or carefully planned?

PK: It’s our dream to make something from Germany internationally successful at the topmost level. Before I returned, I spoke with international greats such as Carine Roitfeld and Franca Sozzani. They admire the intellectual approach and understand what he is striving for. The difficult part is to filter this creativity and to present it

What does the “Wunderkind-Collection” mean?

Sales figures, distribution issues, and market analysis – Peter Kappler covers everything that threatens to inhibit Wolfgang Joop’s creativity.

WJ: I don’t know. Many would have perhaps failed anyway. In this world, you need distribution power to get your product to the people that are still passionate about it. There are always new markets that suddenly have funds. Turkey, for example, now has a middle class and Istanbul is much fancier than Berlin. When Wunderkind started, luxury department stores in the Ukraine and Russia were among our best customers.

It didn’t take long for it all to disappear. Situations change quickly these days. Markets can disappear very suddenly and one has to address new situations swiftly.

PK: One thing has definitely been triggered by the financial industry, namely the mad delusion of mono-brand stores. It was triggered by the fact that one has, on paper, a secure margin and money to invest. It generates anabolic growth and pumps up the company for the planned resale.

What are your plans for Wunderkind?

PK: We want to return to the original idea of Wunderkind as a kind of academy. For this, the name is perfect. We want to create a hotbed of creativity with a lot of wunderkinds. The idea of generating young talent within the project was always part of the overall concept. A lot of Germans work at design companies abroad - that's where I believe there is more training than in the schools. Many want to return to Germany. So far there was no German alternative at this level, but Wunderkind strives to change that. We afford young talents the possibility of shouldering responsibility right from the start, which is very different to the situation at established brands, where one has to work one’s way through many levels of hierarchies. Wolfgang Joop gives young people the chance to take responsibility and is also available as a mentor.

design by wundergestalten.de

Pitti Immagine Uomo Florenz 16.06. – 19.06.15

30.07. – 28.08.2015 Showroom Munich

Premium Exhibition Berlin 08.07. – 10.07.15

Premium München 08.08. – 11.08.15 Showroom Munich

13.07. – 20.07.2015 Showroom Munich Gallery Düsseldorf Golden Area 22.07. – 29.07.15

Supreme München 08.08. – 11.08.15 Showroom Munich

Düsseldorf, Alte Botschaft Cecilienallee 5 Showroom: Siegesstraße 23 • 80802 München • T: 089 / 38 88 77 47 • F: 089 / 38 88 77 49 www.diehinterhofagentur.de Contact: Dominik Meuer 0179 / 45 52 023 • d.meuer@diehinterhofagentur.de

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134 WHAT'S THE STORY

mey story.

No Compromises When Matthias Mey took control of the Mey family business in 2014, he presented the idea for a new product. The core item could hardly have been more challenging: he wanted to make the best white T-shirt, the blank sheet you could say, the brand ambassador for its own story, for value and integrity. And so began the story of mey story.

Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: mey story

“Until now we were the Swabian underwear company that focussed on quality and the product, but I felt we were missing the aspect of communication. I wanted to find a way of telling people, and bringing people closer, to what we actually do. My approach was to establish a new brand, completely independent from top to bottom, with its own setup, and to position a new product for premium customers in the top segment such as Lodenfrey in Munich, Schnitzler in Münster, Stiesing in Bremen, or Schlösser in Hannover.“ Matthias Mey had all the necessary ingredients to hand, or in the Swabian Alb, so to say: Mey returned to take over the family underwear company in January 2014, following a period at the Holy Fashion Group, where he was in charge of the Windsor Men line. And he didn’t return home empty handed.

“The idea for mey story had been growing in me for a long time.

During my time at Windsor I got to know the top segment in the gentlemen’s outfitters industry and was often disappointed by designer labels that treated underwear as a commodity. We are one of the most authentic and sustainable companies in the German market, because we produce everything from the cotton 315 style in progress

to the finished undergarment here in the Swabian Alb. We have around 100 tons of cotton stored in our cellars!”

Thanks to many years of close cooperation with a Peruvian cotton producer, Mey has access to the purest, highest quality Pima Cotton, which is hand-picked to ensure long-staple, high-grade fibres. A perfect starting point.

The Best White T-Shirt

The result was a small, high-quality underwear collection which communicated all the attributes of the company: 100% value-added in Germany, all-year functionality, characterised by its value and quality, providing the market with a specialist product whose input margin is equal to the output margin. And so was born the perfect white T-shirt as mey story’s core product, which through its interlocked knit with an S and a Z yarn, ensures the stitching does not twist when washed. This model comes as a Crew neck, V neck, and Crew neck with breast pocket.

Customers can have their T-shirt personalised at the PoS by having their initials stitched in, and will then take delivery of their Best White T-shirt within five days – proof of the integrity of “Made in Germany”, which both deepens the personal relationship

Matthias Mey returned to the family business early 2014 and developed his ideas into mey story.

WHAT'S THE STORY 135

with the consumer, and brings additional footfall to the respective store.

No Write-Offs

Retail prices of 39 Euros for shorts, 44 to 49 Euros for undershirts and 59 Euros for T-shirts are moderate but also precisely calculated, as quality has its price. Product calculation is based on the premium partners’ demands. On the other hand, compared to fashion, mey story products have no write-offs, as a high-quality basic never loses its value. A NOS programme and on-site production makes resupplies possible within 24 hours. “mey story will be positioned as a Basic in the contemporary fashion segment, for example at Breuninger in Stuttgart, or in the made-to-measure segment. We’ve developed a presentation concept which provides an iPad next to the products so the customer can find out more about the origin and production of the items. In this way I also want to get closer to the consumer in order to tell our story and afford the consumer the opportunity to provide feedback,” explains Matthias Mey. The spring/summer 2016 Best White T-Shirt can also be pre-ordered for boys.

from the past, simply modern products, appropriate for the spirit of the times. Prues also regularly accompanies clients on tours of the Albstadt-Lautlingen production facility to let them experience this unique story for themselves, as this is how he himself was won over. “The combination of technology, efficiency and handcraft enables us to produce a quality German product, manufactured fairly, something which no-one in our industry had believed possible any longer, and through which both retailer and the company can earn an honest living.“ Mey Herrenwäsche GmbH & Co. KG Albstadt-Lautlingen/Germany, T 0049.7431.7060, m.prues@meystory.com, www.meystory.com

A Fresh Wind

mey story hired the experienced sales professional Michael Prues as Head of Business Development for the sales launch at the beginning of May. Prues appointed the Munich-based agency Heritage Agents to lead the sales process. “In the first step we presented exclusively to the top 15 to 20 gentlemen’s outfitters in Germany. They were then supplied in September. The official kick-off then continued with the classic order dates,” says Michael Prues, who has yet to find any competitors for the product in the underwear segment. No vintage story, no repackaged blast

The finest Pima cotton from Peru and a special production technique make the mey story products especially desirable.

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136 WHAT'S THE STORY

CR7.

RecordBreaking He is considered to be one of the best football players of all time, was voted FIFA World Player of the Year three times, and named European Footballer of the Year twice - Cristiano Ronaldo. Now he has teamed up with New York-based designer Richard Chai to design underwear, shirts, and shoes for his CR7 label.

The production partner is Denmark-based JBS Textile Group.

Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: CR7

Cristiano Ronaldo, the captain and all-time leading goal scorer of the Portuguese national team, is a much-admired male beauty on the football pitch.

Following the most expensive transfer in football history, Ronaldo has been under contract at Real Madrid since 2009. He has signed numerous endorsement deals throughout his career with brands such as Castrol, Coca-Cola, Emporio Armani, Motorola, Pepe Jeans, Samsung, Suzuki, and TAG Heuer. Together with Ana Beatriz Barros, a Brazilian model, he is currently promoting the collections of Portuguese brand Sacoor Brothers.

He is regarded as a true fashion enthusiast. “Fashion and design are two of my passions. I’ve been dreaming about starting my own brand for a very long time”, the 30 year old Portuguese says. In November 2013, he made his dream come true and launched his own men’s underwear label under the CR7 brand, a combination of his initials and shirt number. The product range now also includes a line of socks and a shirt collection. To celebrate the launch, the collection was presented at a large stand at the Bread & Butter trade show. Earlier this year, the CR7 label started its shoe collection for men and boys, which was showcased 315 style in progress

at the Premium trade fair in Berlin. The underwear and sock collections were presented at the ispo trade show in Munich.

Enormous Potential

With more than 100 million fans on Facebook and 36 million followers on Twitter, Cristiano Ronaldo is one of the athletes with the greatest reach in social networks. A pointer to the underwear collection on Ronaldo’s Facebook page can receive 300,000 likes and almost 4,000 comments easily. A casual announcement that CR7 underwear is now also available in micro-fibre fabric will be re-tweeted 7,000 times and liked 16,000 times. The potential of these eye-catching communication channels is truly enormous.

The designs for CR7 are from New York-based designer Richard Chai, who has already worked for brands such as Armani Exchange, Donna Karan, and Marc Jacobs. London-based advertising agency Saatchi & Saatchi is responsible for market communication. The Danish family business JBS is the label’s production partner; the textiles are produced in Denmark, Lithuania, and China. The CR7 distributor for Germany and Austria is Maratex Fashion AG, which is also responsible for the Finnish and Russian markets.

The trade agent in Germany is ETC Munich, while the trade agent in Austria is Agentur Hütthaler, which has showrooms in Salzburg and Vienna.

“Consumers are looking for new products from brands they can identify with. CR7 appeals to a target audience of young boys from the age of 12 onwards and also attracts young men who desire fashionable designs and cuts. In addition to our seasonal collections, we also offer an extensive stock programme and ad-hoc special packages for oc-

He is not only an imposing figure on the pitch - Cristiano Ronaldo won four Golden Boots as the top scorer in Europe.

casions such as Father’s Day and Easter, as well as products with “Back to School” branding. They are all very well received by the customers. It is definitely worth mentioning the particularly fine quality of the CR7 underwear.

The models of this line are made of 95 percent Pima Cotton and 5 percent spandex. They also feature an especially durable elastic waistband”, explains Helmut Hütthaler, the head of the Austrian agency. The Austrian customer list includes household names such as Intersport, Sport 2000, Peek & Cloppenburg, and a few other upscale specialised retailers. The retail price for a pack of 3 pairs of underwear is 39.90 Euro, while a pair of socks costs 7.95 Euros. The retail prices for shirts range from 64.95 to 99.95 Euros.

The CR7 product portfolio will soon be complemented by a fra-

grance license and an undershirt collection. A trousers collection cannot be ruled out in the long run. The first CR7 stores opened their doors to the public in Helsinki and Moscow in June.

WHAT'S THE STORY 137

Colmar Originals.

The Journey to a Global Brand Behind Colmar Originals stands a traditional company with a young spirit, which is the perfect recipe for success in the Italian market and beyond, with the declared aim of glo­ balising the Italian brand.

for special styles, which is below the price segment of rival brands such as Moncler and Duvetica. Polo shirts, shirts, fleeces, and shoes are also available as licensed products to complete the look.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper.

Photos: Colmar Originals

Solid Foundations

Great product - cool image: jackets by Colmar Originals are an excellent example of how a traditional company can gain new impetus by drawing inspiration from its own rich heritage.

Colmar Originals started in 2009 with down jackets inspired by the 1970’s Colmar fashion collection. “We were encouraged to continue developing this line through our customer feedback“, according to marketing manager Stefano Colombo. “Since then we’ve managed to double our turnover from season to season.

Quite an achievement, as it isn’t easy to grow in a saturated market.” In addition to an innovative and high-quality premium product, price is another factor in favour of Colmar Originals.

Jackets cost 249 to 500 Euros

Colmar’s foundations were laid in Monza in 1923, when Mario Colombo began to manufacture working clothes. The beginnings of Colmar Skiwear can be traced back to 1945, when the Italian designer began using his work-overalls for skiing.

The success of the brand gained momentum when ski champion Zeno Colò won the World Championships in Oslo wearing an aerodynamic ski suit specially designed by Colmar. Ski and golf wear are still major divisions of the company to this day. The company is also an active sponsor of events such as the aptly named Colmar Cup in Italy.

The most important company division is the Colmar Originals line. For this line, the company returned to its roots in the Brianza region between Milan and Como, and relied upon familiar

Marketing manager Stefano Colombo would like to build on the success of Colmar Originals and create a global brand.

Jackets for men and women are the mainstay of the total look collection by Colmar Originals.

structures. Today, Colmar is managed by Mario Colombo as president, who is actively supported by his cousins Giulio and Carlo Colombo, as well as Stefano Colombo representing the fourth generation of the Colombo family.

Sustainable Action

Hard work bears fruit, starting with the 1,000 points of sale in the home Italian market.

“Our customers believe in the product“, says Stefano Colombo.

“We want to build this trust in other key markets and globalise the brand this way.” Marketing power and selective distribution are also core components of the group strategy. The 300 sales outlets in Germany include Sor Hannover, Jades Düsseldorf, and Lodenfrey Munich. In Austria, where the brand is marketed by CCT Collectionen Christian Teufl, Sailer Seefeld, Einwaller Innsbruck, and Steffl Vienna, are among the 70 premium clients. Further own stores for a measured market entry are also being planned, in addition to the twelve stores already trading in Milan and Berlin, for example.

More flagship stores are to follow in every important market. “The most important factor for a healthy business is sustainable action“, reveals Stefano Colombo.

“We live our vision and are full of enthusiasm. I’m very proud to be able to convey this energy into our own products.”

Colmar Originals 2 collections per year, each of 200 items Production: Italy, China www.colmaroriginals.it

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138 WHAT'S THE STORY

North Sails.

On Course for Success

North Sails’ revamped apparel range includes a women’s line.

Following the takeover by Oakley Capital, the ship sail and sportswear specialist underwent a fundamental restructuring process and revised its apparel collection completely. Only recently, the brand showcased its new women’s range at the Pitti Uomo in Florence.

Text: Kay Alexander Plonka.

Photos: North Sails

In order to breathe new life into the sportswear collection of the ship sail specialist, North Sails hired a truly experienced crew. Eric Bijlsma, the new co-owner and CEO, who was at the helm of Netherlands-based street wear and denim brand Scotch & Soda for many years, brought Robert Polet, a former CEO of Gucci Group, on board as a partner. Both individuals are not only experienced captains in the textile industry, but also passionate sailors. “Our aim is to transform the tradition-steeped sail maker into a pioneering global brand with the assistance 315 style in progress

of a team of fashion designers, product developers, and sailors”, Eric Bijlsma explains. The new headquarters are located at the entrance to the harbour of Amsterdam. The light-flooded penthouse of the former harbour master offices now houses the brand’s management, distribution, and marketing departments.

A large showroom can be found one floor below.

The creative director is Mauro Talliani, who previously worked for renowned brands such as Hugo Boss, Trussardi, and Calvin Klein Jeans. He revamped North Sails’ apparel range in his studio in Florence, which resulted in a collection divided into four lines.

Global Expansion

Black, the exclusive premium line, is defined by a clear design approach and incorporates certain design-technical elements from the world of sailing in an understated manner. The range consists of approximately 60 items; the retail prices for jackets

from the autumn/winter season range, for example, from 550 to 1,100 Euros. Deep Blue is the more technical and athletic maritime collection, while Ocean Blue is an apparel range with a younger and more fashionable approach. The Iconic Line, with retail prices starting at 99 Euros, offers timeless classics such as polo shirts and chinos as a supplementary NOS programme.

Shortly after the presentation in January, customers such as Breuninger, Ansons, Conleys, Fashion Room, Excelsior Milano, and Gerard Loft placed first orders. North Sails is also planning a special project with Colette, a Parisian concept store.

Offenbach-based fashion agency Brandpool is responsible for the brand’s sales marketing in Germany and Austria. Bijlsma and his team divided the global expansion strategy into three phases. Now that the brand has been introduced to the European market, the launch of the women’s collection at the Pitti Uomo is the second phase,

North Sails was founded by Lowell North in San Diego (California) in 1957. The brand was sold to Terry Kohler in 1984 and subsequently merged with the Danish company Diamond Sailmakers in 1995. North Sails then awarded licenses for windsurfing sails and textiles. Most participants in both the Volvo Ocean Race and the America’s Cup use sails manufactured by North Sails. In fiscal year 2011, the company generated 110 million US Dollars in revenue with its sail division alone. In 2014, the North Technology Group, the parent holding of North Sails, was sold to private equity house Oakley Capital.

The licensee for Europe and Asia, namely Tomasoni Topsail S.p.A., was also taken over by Oakley Capital and Eric Bijlsma. www.northsails.com

during which the label will also be established in the US, Australia, New Zealand, and Japan.

“Over the next one or two years, we will open approximately 20 flagship stores around the globe”, says Bijlsma. As soon as the store concept has been established, North Sails will set sail for Russia and China.

WHAT'S THE STORY 139

Artigiano.

Switzerland’s Best White Shirt The shirt specialists from Neerach probably wouldn’t phrase it quite so arrogantly, but the slogan says it all: “The No. 1 for white shirts”. Hans Aeberhard, the company founder, has been pursuing this goal right from the start.

Text: Dörte Welti. Photos: Artigiano

They do still exist - the companies that fly below the radar, do a damn good job, and grow continuously while everything around them is going haywire. Hans Aeberhard doesn’t really have a specific recipe for success; in 1972, he simply decided that he wanted to manufacture the best white shirt. In order to achieve this, the Swiss businessman sought and found an Italian weaving mill willing to process finest Egyptian cotton according to his ideas. He then opened a production facility in Ticino and got cracking. Hans Aeberhard called his brand Artigiano, which was launched by Asoni Group, a company founded especially for this purpose.

Initially, the brand specialised in

white and blue shirts for men.

Artigiano is an Italian term and, loosely translated, means “handicraft”, which is also the basic principle of the label.

Handicraft as Core Competence

Today, 43 years later, most items are still handcrafted; the white and blue shirts remain the foundation of the business.

Artigiano has also developed into a veritable specialist for men’s shirts and women’s blouses. The brand now has its own production plant in Portugal and, since 2014, a branch in Ticino again.

In Germany, the customer list includes household names such as Apropos - The Concept Store, the KaDeWe Group, and Lodenfrey (which, for instance, ordered a special edition to celebrate “Oktoberfest”). In Austria, the brand is stocked by the likes of Sagmeister, Grüner, and Steffl, while the Swiss customers include Jelmoli, PKZ, Grieder, and Bernie’s. Artigiano is also open for co-operations. For example, the label teamed up with Tommy Hilfiger to create a capsule col-

They fit - Artigiano’s white shirts have been a well-established name for 43 years.

lection named “Tommy Hilfiger Tailored by Artigiano”, which is distributed via Tommy Hilfiger’s European mono-brand stores.

Retailers can benefit from the NOS policy of Artigiano. On Monday, one communicates which shirts are missing from the NOS line. On Friday, the desired items are delivered to the POS. Seasonal and pre-collections in a myriad of designs, fashionable prints, and exceptional qualities such as denim look cashmere are delivered six times per year. The brand also offers a tailored shirt programme.

Internationalisation

Artigiano recently restructured its distribution. With immediate effect, Elvis Giglione Fashion Agency is responsible for the German and Austrian markets. Switzerland and the international markets are covered by Aline Aeberhard and Kai Müller.

This year, Artigiano presented its product range at the Pitti trade fair in Florence for the third time. Aline Aeberhard, the founder’s daughter who joined the business in 2013 and studied at the London College of Fashion, and Kai Müller, the

product manager who studied at the Nagold Textile Academy, have brought a breath of fresh air into the old, wonderfully developed half-timbered building in tranquil Neerach. The peaceful headquarters is where the designs are created by eight absolute enthusiasts. Their aim is not to be trendsetters, but to maintain the reputation as a permanent fixture at Europe’s best outfitters.

The brand has set its sights on London and Paris; Artigiano wants to internationalise. Swiss quality is a strong statement and still valued in European and more distant countries. There’s always room for Switzerland’s best shirts.

Asoni SA, Neerach/Switzerland, asoni@asoni.ch, www.asoni.ch

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140 WHAT'S THE STORY

Superjeans of Sweden.

“Sustainability Is Not A Religion”

The style of Superjeans of Sweden is minimalistic with sophisticated fitting.

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WHAT'S THE STORY 141

Bo Bech-Nielsen is a self-proclaimed denim nerd and the founder of the Superjeans of Sweden brand.

Does the world need a new denim brand? Bo Bech-Nielsen believes it doesn’t, but that didn’t stop him from launching Superjeans of Sweden. In this interview he talks about responsible production and conscious consumption.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper.

Photos: Superjeans of Sweden

Jeans can be found absolutely everywhere in great variety. What is different about your product?

As a Swedish brand we stand for Swedish cleanness, not only in terms of style. I really don’t want to sound like a hippie, but we respect Mother Earth and that approach is deeply rooted in our culture. Sweden is among the cleanest countries in the world; hence we try to recycle as much as we possibly can. This is also Superjeans of Sweden’s philosophy.

You have been in the jeans business for 20 years. What’s your personal insight?

I have worked for large companies in China, India, and Pakistan. If the consumers would see the child labour and hazardous production conditions that I have seen, they wouldn’t buy a single product from those

particular brands. We produce exclusively in Europe, for many reasons. One of the reasons is that I know exactly who comes into contact with our jeans. The jeans are manufactured in Portugal by real professionals, who are - above all - adults!

How sustainable is the brand Superjeans of Sweden?

For me, sustainability is not a religion. I don’t want to claim that my product is 100 percent sustainable, which nobody can claim in reality. However, we strive to manufacture the best product possible, as environmentally friendly and responsible as possible. We also try to reuse many components. The indigo water from the jeans is, for instance, reused for the dyeing of T-shirts. The result can be seen at the Premium trade show in Berlin. We use organic cotton for our T-shirts, but for quality reasons rather than environmental ones. Let’s face it; even the production of organic cotton still needs a lot of water.

What can you say in terms of style?

Our style is minimalistic. Furthermore, the fit is very important. For every fabric, which we produce specially in Spain, we develop a new design, because every fabric reacts differently to

the washing process. We invest endless amounts of time in the development of our jeans, which we complement with jackets, dresses, and shirts. In my opinion, we have one of the coolest denim collections I have ever seen! It isn’t a large collection, but it has to convince our customers. You don’t need 300 different styles once you’ve figured out what you want to do and how to do it.

You started in the domestic market in 2012.

Sweden is a tough market with a lot of competition. Nevertheless, I decided to do what everyone said I shouldn’t, which was to open a store in Malmö for my unknown brand. I was fortunate that the right people took notice soon and gave us publicity. Right now, everything is working out well. In Scandinavia, we supply approximately 100 customers.

We could be supplying 300, but I want to ensure we have the right customers. I’d rather wait for them if they are not ready for our products yet.

only joking. Our web shop already receives a lot of orders from Germany, which alerted us to the fact that there is a market for us there. Via Celine Klauser, we have already received very positive feedback from a few big players. Now we want to achieve slow and selective growth with a high-quality product that can stand the test of time. My grandfather once showed me a 50 year old shirt he had in his cupboard and it still looked brand new! I don’t want to suggest that people should wear our jeans for 30 years, but they certainly could.

We want to supply our customers with jeans that are worth more than their price.

Superjeans of Sweden Headquarters: Malmö, Sweden 2 collections per year with 6 fits for women and 5 fits for men, additional flash programme Retail prices for jeans: 150 to 180 Euros www.superjeansofsweden.com

The label is now entering the German market with the assistance of the fashion agency Celine Klauser. What is the ultimate goal?

We want to be the largest denim brand in Germany. No, I was style in progress 315

142 FASHION

Photos & Production: Oliver Rauh Styling: Oliver Rauh & Samir Abou-Suede Hair/Make-Up: Sigi Kumpfmüller using Chanel Digital Operator: Arton Sefa Retouch: Elektronische Schönheit Layout: Victoria Keller Model: Siri Mesmer @ Modelwerk.de Light: Dodo Weigert Film

315 style in progress

FASHION 143

Left page Coat: Marc O’Polo Blouse: Cruciani Sunglasses: Orgreen Jewellery: Leonor Barrios Bra: Calida Jeans: AG This page Leather coat: Iris von Arnim Blouse: AG Necklace: Escapulario Trousers: Twin-Set Heels: French Connection

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144 FASHION

Left Top: AlpensĂźnde Sunglasses: Valley Leather trousers: Brunello Cucinelli Boots: Navyboot Right Pullover: Annie P. Bag: Londine Skirt: 0039 Italy Heels: French Connection

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FASHION 145

Blouse: Luisa Cerano Necklaces: Lumisha Trousers: Drykorn Heels: French Connection

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146 FASHION

Blazer: Antoinette Blouse: Sand Sunglasses: Marc by Marc Jacobs

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FASHION 147

Left Biker jacket: Set Blouse: Liu Jo Trousers: Iris von Arnim Heels: Raoul Right Blouson: Gant Top: 81 Hours Bracelets: Escapulario Trousers: Annie P. Trainers: Candice Cooper

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148 FASHION

Left Blouse: Sportalm Right Blouse: Des Petits Hauts Scarf as belt: 4colored Bracelet: Sense Copenhagen Handbag: Twin Set Culottes: Ottod‘Ame Espadrilles: Sun Z

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FASHION 149

Knitted coat: Marcel Ostertag Blouse: Otto d’Ame Trousers: Twin-Set Wedges: French Connection

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150 FASHION

Photos: Norbert Baeres. Production/Styling: Oliver Rauh

Polo shirt: Falke Shirt: Joop Jacket: Joop Bracelet: Gabriele Frantzen Leather trousers: Meindl Belt: Closed Socks: Falke Shoes: Office London 315 style in progress

FASHION 151

Jacket: Windsor Cardigan: Falke Shirt: Windsor Jeans: Alberto Belt: Windsor Shoes: Floris van Bommel Travel bag: Jost

Knitted polo: Falke

Styling Assistance: Jennifer Wurster Photo Assistance: Manuel Ringlstetter Grooming/Hair: Sigi KumpfmĂźller using Chanel@kultartists.com Models: Campbell@kultmodels.com, Wincent@Tune-models.com Layout: Marie-Luise Dorst Location: www.bold-hotels.com Special thanks to Felicitas MĂźller & Alexandra Birkel style in progress 315

152 FASHION Sweatshirt: 7 for all mankind Sunglasses: Moscot

bottom left Shirt: Stone Island Sweatshirt: 7 for all mankind Bracelet: Vain Jeans: Pt 05 bottom right Shirt: Lucky de Luca Shirt: Drykorn Trousers: Drykorn

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FASHION 153

Hat: Stetson Leather jacket: Milestone Shirt: Boulezar Shorts: Boulezar Travel bag: Souve Loafers: Jimmy Choo

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154 FASHION Jacket: Gant Shirt: Replay Sunglasses: Woodfellas Shorts: Replay Belt: KragĂź Leather backpack: Souve

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FASHION 155

left Hat: Stetson Blouson: Baracuta Shirt: Colli Shirt: Calida Shorts: Replay Shoes: Superga right Down vest: Duvetica Polo shirt: Chalet Belt: KragĂź Trousers: AG Bracelets: Escapulario Shoes: Office London Weekender: Suri Frey

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156 FASHION

Jacket: Sand Shirt: Sand Shorts: Barb’one Belt: Closed Socks: Burlington Shoes: Jimmy Choo Weekender: Jost

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FASHION 157

left Knitted blazer: Digel Shirt: Tommy Hilfiger Trousers: Closed Shoes: Superga right Down vest: Paltó Shirt: B.D. Baggies T-shirt: O’Neill Jeans: Superjeans Belt: Replay Socks: Falke Shoes: Tom’s

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158 IN STORE

A living room, a meeting point, a purchasable style world - the ground floor of Soho House Berlin has been transformed into a concept store.

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IN STORE 159

Simple Luxury. The Store x Soho House/Berlin The Store x Soho House/Berlin. The Store is a new concept store format introduced to Berlin-based Soho House by England-born Alex Eagle. The new brainchild of the Englishwoman does not only offer fashion, furniture, books, and records, but also houses an office sharing project, a beauty area, a photo and recording studio, a cafe, and a pizzeria.

Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: The Store

The Soho House in Berlin is one of now 14 private clubs (located in cities such as London, New York, Miami, and Istanbul) that incorporate a hotel or holiday apartments, a fitness studio with spa area, various restaurants, and/or bars. All the facilities are exclusively reserved for Soho House members and their guests. The landmarked building, which has been housing the Berlin-based Soho House since 2010, dates back to the late 1920s, when it was a seven-storey department store with a roof terrace.

The new retail concept named The Store moved into the ground floor this year. It was only accessible for members for the first few months, but now everybody can venture in to shop and have lunch. The Store’s cafe offers fresh local food and juices.

The library area affords visitors a chance to work or read in peace.

The concept also includes a photo and recording studio, rentable work areas, and the Pizza East restaurant. Another highlight is the Barber & Parlour beauty area, which is managed by Josh Wood, the creative director of Wella.

Lounge Shopping

The concept for the 2,800 square metre store was developed by creative director Alex Eagle. It’s a little bit like an apartment in which everything is for sale - the burning candle, the record the

DJ has just put on, and even the sofa one is sitting on. “People visit in the morning for coffee or breakfast and end up staying all day - working or hanging out with friends, dipping into the menu, and browsing the clothes and books”, she explains. Eagle gained first experienced in the The Store x Soho House Berlin Torstrasse 1, 10119 Berlin/Germany www.thestore-berlin.com Opening: 2nd of February 2015 Store manager: Celia Solf Employees: 28 Sales area: 2,800sqm Brands for women: 3x1, Alexander Wang, Ann Demeulemeester, Baja East, Balenciaga, Body Editions, Christophe Lemaire, Christopher Raeburn, De Marquit, Each x Other, ESK, Falke, Frame, Issey Miyake, Jil Sander, Jonathan Saunders, Joseph, Junya Watanabe, JW Anderson, Kiki de Montparnasse, Le Kilt, Lisa Marie Fernandez, Marques Almeida, New & Lingwood x Alex Eagle, P.R. Patterson, Palmer Harding, Poplin, Proenza Schouler, Rosetta Getty, Rosie Assoulin, Simone Rocha, The Row, Trager Delaney, Vetements, Yohji Yamamoto Brands for men: A. Sauvage, AMI, Casey Casey, Christophe Lemaire, Christopher Kane, Christopher Raeburn, Each x Other, Frame, Frescobol Carioca, Isaora, Issey Miyake, Joseph, Junya Watanabe, JW Anderson, Maharishi, Maison Labiche, Marni, Melinda Gloss, Neil Barrett, New & Lingwood, P.R. Patterson, Sunspel, Y-3

fashion industry during her studies as an assistant for a stylist. She completed internships at London-based fashion label Gharani Strok and The Sunday Times’ style section. Subsequently, Eagle did editorial work for Tank and Harper’s Bazaar before handling the global PR work for the brand Joseph.

The Centre of All Things

When asked why the first outlet was opened in Berlin instead of New York or London, Eagle answers: “Berlin is a great dynamic city; it’s so connected with global creativity. The energy there is incredible and it feels like the centre of all things when you are there. We had this amazing, huge, and brutally beautiful space in the centre of the city, which would have been impossible to find in New York or London. A location on that scale is unparalleled. It’s situated in Berlin-Mitte, in an area which was once seen as the outskirts of the city, but now it’s the home of the town’s burgeoning creative and technology industries.”

As a cultural meeting point, the shop boasts a luxurious retail floor with art installations, numerous collections by renowned designers, accessories, jewellery, records, and furniture. “The philosophy behind our buying strategy is based on cohesive blocks that create a non-seasonal, timeless wardrobe consisting of classic pieces that work well to-

Creative director Alex Eagle’s The Store is a cultural meeting point in the heart of Berlin.

gether. The focus is on the cuts, excellent fits, beautiful materials, and longevity. It’s the antithesis to fast fashion; it’s more of a wear forever approach”, Eagle says.

The next The Store concepts, which will be opened in the Soho House locations in Oxfordshire and London, are already in the planning stages. In the meantime, Alex Eagle has decided to open another store under her own name in London’s Walton Street in Chelsea.

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Mission. Statement Store/Munich Kay Knippschild and Christian Josh Heise, who are both from Berlin, were inspired to make a bold statement in favour of denim in Munich by their shared passion for high-end finely detailed jeans. The Statement Store truly lives up to its name; 99% of the trousers on offer are unwashed Selvedge denims. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Statement Store

There’s only one appropriate location for this store: in Munich’s Glockenbach district, near Gärtnerplatz, on Frauenhoferstrasse between Klenzestrasse and Müllerstrasse. This is the place the Statement Store of Kay Knippschild and Christian Josh Heise has called home ever since it opened its doors to the public in November last year.

The two fashion enthusiasts had already founded Munich’s Red Wing Shoes Store a year earlier.

However, Statement Store is solely dedicated to jeans. More than 80% of the goods on offer are Selvedge denims from the US and Japan, ranging from 12.85 to 21 ounces. In addition, the store stocks accessories such as belts by Hollywood Trading Company, hats and caps by Stetson, jackets by Baracuta, and boots by White’s Boots. Unique vintage items, which the two owners buy at jumble sales during their trips to the US, provide a special highlight.

All but two jeans models are unwashed, raw that is. Furthermore, the shop stocks a few chinos for the summer. The fits are as diverse as the customers and therefore include skinny, slim, tapered, relaxed, and loose fits.

“We strive to offer something for everyone. Our product range is 315 style in progress

aimed at both denim novices and well-informed experts. We have customers who are 16 years old, but we also had a customer in his 70s who purchased a 501 from 1947”, Berlin-born Heise explains. In Heise’s experience, the good people of Munich predominantly seek out the smaller waist sizes, suggesting the Bavarians are considerably slimmer than their Prussian counterparts.

Career in Retail

Heise actually entered the denim trade as late as 2010. He boasts university degrees in economics, sociology, and political science.

However, he decided to turn down a clerkship at the German Central Bank in favour of a position at Burg und Schild and Red Wing Store in Berlin. Now he is a co-owner of Statement.

“Munich is a very sexy place in spring. I am really enjoying the task of establishing this store in this city. The environment consisting of antique and vintage shops, as well as cafes for all sorts of people, reminds me of Central Berlin and Prenzlauer Berg 15 years ago”, Heise says.

The store advertises via its website blog, Facebook, and Instagram, as well as via a Labelfinder account. It took no more than six months before the shop

had its first regulars. “Word-ofmouth recommendations are still the best means of advertising; it is and always will be the most important tool”, Heise explains.

“Our customers are often asked about the trousers and shoes they wear. They are more than willing to recommend us.” The entry-level price range at Statement starts with Edwin Jeans with prices from 140 Euros upwards.

Untreated 18oz jeans by 3sixteen, which are made of fabrics processed directly from the weaving loom without sanforisation, are a truly purist highlight with a retail price of almost 400 Euros.

Statement The Denim Store Fraunhoferstrasse 8, 80469 Munich/Germany www.statement-store.com Opening: 27th of Nov. 2014 Owners: Kay Knippschild and Christian Josh Heise Sales area: 60sqm Brands for men: 3sixteen, Baracuta, Ebbets Field Flannels, Edwin, Filson, Hellers Cafe, Homespun, HTC, Indigofera, Indigo People, Ironheart, Japan Blue, Levis Vintage Clothing, Lightning Bolt, National Athletics, Stetson, Stevenson Overall, Talonmade, Tannergoods, The Strike Gold, Ondura, Rogue Territory, White’s Boots

The same applies to denim by the Japanese label The Strike Gold from Okayama, which is made of so-called Left Hand Twill and boasts a matchless feel with the highest fabric quality possible.

In principle, the owners of Statement strive to offer a broad in-depth range of denim trousers. They throw their professional expertise into the mix free of charge. “We are happy to give advice on how to wash the trousers correctly and what needs to be done to keep the colour fresh as long as possible. In contrast, we also gladly explain how to achieve a real washed look”, Heise says. In addition, the store offers honest guidance and excellent service. It goes without saying that there is no surcharge for the shortening of trousers. “For this purpose, we purchased a sewing machine that is capable of chain stitching. We would like to add a repair service to our service portfolio in the near future. We are also working on an online store”, Heise adds.

After all, true pioneers always have a number of uncompleted missions on their agenda.

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The interior of the Statement Store is aimed at a target group that appreciates honesty and a little rawness.

From the Spree to the Isar – Berlin-born Christian Josh Heise has found a new home in Munich’s Glockenbach district.

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Beach Pearl.

Pier 14/Zinnowitz Usedom is known for the finest Baltic Sea beaches and is considered to be Germany’s sunniest holiday destination.

The Pier 14 concept store in Zinnowitz makes the island in the Baltic Sea even more attractive.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Pier 14

Stefan Richter (left) jointly manages the retail company, which now runs twelve stores, with Jana and Gert Griehl.

The appearance alone is worthy of a small drum roll.

Pier 14 has placed a showcase for fashion presentations and a real old-timer at its entrance.

In the store itself, visitors can browse through fashion items for men and women, cosmetics, and food. It is a truly successful all-round concept, which earned Pier 14 the Store of the Year 2015 award of HDE, the German trade association.

Cake, Curry Sausage, and Fashion

Pier 14 strives to appeal to all human senses. Thus, customers are tempted by a cake counter as soon as they enter the store. A few steps lead to a separate fireside lounge, which is equipped with a number of tables that invite customers to sit down and eat. The store offers meals such as a pork curry sausage with herbs and a glass of Crémant, or a burger made of LandWert beef. Andreas Kühn, the chef at Pier 14, is also renowned for his whole-food cakes and tarts.

Last but not least, let’s turn to the fashion segment. The major brands on offer are Drykorn, Parajumpers, Please, and Better Rich. The top end labels for 315 style in progress

women include Schumacher and High, while Stone Island and Boss Black are the top range brands for men. “Our customers often tell us that we offer special items, for instance collections like Sophie, La Fée Maraboutée, Oakwood, and Pen & Ink”, Stefan Richter says. He has been at the helm of the company behind Pier 14 since 2007. Richter’s Pier 14 Neue Strandstrasse 36, 17454 Zinnowitz/Germany www.pier14.de Opening: August 2013 Owners: Gert Griehl, Jana Griehl, Stefan Richter Employees: 10 Sales area: 360sqm Brands for women: 7 for all Mankind, Better Rich, Blaumax, Blonde No.8, Drykorn, FTC, High, La Fée Maraboutée, Oakwood, Parajumpers, Pen & Ink, Please, Schumacher, Set, Sophie, and others Brands for men: Baldessarini, Better Rich, Drykorn, Hugo Boss, Parajumpers, Stone Island, Strellson, Matchless, and others Accessories brands: B. Belt, Beck Söndergaard, Campomaggi, Konplott, Le Specs, L’Occitane, Philippe Model, Saami Crafts, Vic, Voluspa, VMP, Ugg, and others

business acumen and passion complement the talents of the Pier 14 founders, Jana and Gerd Griehl, perfectly.

Lifestyle from Cape Town

For a long time, it looked as if Stefan Richter was heading for a professional cycling career.

But then he spent two years in Cape Town, where he discovered his passion for the retail industry and helped establish a retail chain focusing on a young, athletic product range.

In Cape Town he met Jana and Gert Griehl. The acquaintance quickly turned into friendship and resulted in an idea of forging a professional partnership. Today, the three fashion enthusiasts manage twelve stores in East Germany, including Jack Wolfskin, Liebeskind, and Marc O’Polo franchise stores, as well as the three Pier 14 multi-brand concepts. The latter are the backbone of the company with approximately 60 employees.

The corporate structure is highly sophisticated. Jana Griehl is responsible for the concept store operations and is the head buyer for the women’s outerwear segment, while Stefan Richter handles the marketing side,

the purchasing department in general, and shop fitting. Finally, Gert Griehl takes care of human resources and controlling. Furthermore, Gert Griehl and Stefan Richter are jointly responsible for all major strategic issues concerning the business. The plans for the future can be described as ambitious. The company aims to expand its successful Pier 14 lifestyle concept by adding another six branches in the region.

“Cape Town was a good lesson for me”, Stefan Richter explains.

“Customer negotiations were often about the next cool party, attractive galleries, or excellent restaurants. We always had to refer people elsewhere. Here at Pier 14 we don’t need to do that anymore.”

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The store design is inspired by the typical Usedom resorts.

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Feel-good atmosphere – Barbara Seefelder believes there is no bigger compliment than customer comfort.

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In Dialogue with Fashion.

Seefelder/Munich Seefelder/Munich. Barbara Seefelder not only gave her store her name, but the successful entrepreneur, and mother of two, also injected pretty much all of her 30 years of professional experience and her passion for creativity into the business. Thus, the concept of this lively boutique in Schwabing is a reflection of the owner herself. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Barbara Seefelder

“I am the heart and soul of this store.” – The owner is behind the sales counter every day.

“My work has always been defined by passionate creativity.” In August 2013, Barbara Seefelder took over the store from its previous owner and transformed it into a relaxing oasis for women on the lookout for fashion that is rare in Munich. When Barbara Seefelder tells her story, she takes you on a wild rollercoaster ride through her career as a fashion retailer, as a style counsellor to the women of Munich’s entertainment, economical, and political circles, as a proud mother, as a creative all-rounder, and – last but certainly not least – as the owner of a store in Hohenzollernstrasse who has finally made her dream come true. Her warm laugh is as honest as her concept. Tops are sorted by colour themes, dress dolls showcase combination possibilities, and one can find a little denim wall with Denham jeans in front of a container plate on the wall. The fashion on show is elegant and casual, as well as young and feminine. Her affinity to Scandinavian design culture draws Barbara Seefelder to fash-

ion trade shows in Copenhagen, but she is also willing to check out more unusual trade fairs in cities like Istanbul and Lisbon to find something special for her customers. Her latest discovery is The Last Conspiracy, a Danish manufacturer of hand-sewn shoes.

involved. Barbara Seefelder will only sign an order once her individually created concept for the season stands. That’s what defines her style. It is her aim to promote an unobtrusive daily chic to both businesswomen in board rooms and stay-at-home mums alike.

Feel the Fashion

Industrial Design

Given her vast experience as a style counsellor, Barbara Seefelder thinks in looks and passes her ideas on to her customers in that manner too.

“I believe that fashion should not dictate an individual; there should be a dialogue between the piece of clothing and its wearer.

Our personal atmosphere, paired with a carefully selected product range, invites our customers to linger and browse.” Barbara Seefelder has a very conceptual product selection approach. She goes to great lengths to ensure that the colours of her store’s 31 brands correlate accordingly.

Granted, her approach can make the order process rather difficult, even for the fashion agencies

Container plates on the wall, factory lights hanging from the ceiling, and grandmother’s old sewing machine as a counter; the ladder leaning against the wall is from the grandfather’s shed.

“The art lies in the detail and is aimed at leading customers out of their comfort zone”, explains Barbara Seefelder, who openly admits that the passing trade on the once most popular shopping street of Schwabing would not generate enough sales to survive.

All the more value is placed on having special offers for regular customers, and on continual progress. After all, the next dreams are already in the pipeline: a second branch and a T-shirt label with an expressive design

approach, a statement for men, women, and children. Barbara Seefelder is not ready to reveal more about her future plans just yet.

Barbara Seefelder Hohenzollernstrasse 38, 80801 Munich/Germany www.barbaraseefelder.com Opening: August 2013 Owner: Barbara Seefelder Employees: None Sales area: 45sqm Brands for women: B.D. Baggies, Bellerose, Better Rich, Blonde No.8, Blank & Studs, Casimier, Custommade, Denham, Duvetica, Fish in the Sea, Frogbox, Goosecraft, Hotspot, Humanoid, Jay Jay, Maliparmi, Masha & Kate, Mason’s, Montgomery, My Flowers of Life, My Herzallerliebst, Pence, Rabens Saloner Accessories brands: Epice, Kindlein, LetmeSee, Lulu DK Tattoos, Saami Crafts, Smitten, Star Mela, The Last Conspiracy, Vanessa Baroni, Warm-Me, Uno de 5

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Marvel at the World Outside.

PoeSie 1895/Bad Ischl Maintaining tradition goes hand in hand with reinventing oneself, a fact of which Austrian company Schauer, headquartered in Bad Ischl, is well aware. With PoeSie 1895, Schauer has created a fashion store that can compete with international rivals and that complements its existing traditional fashion (“Trachten”) shops. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: PoeSie 1895

The hammered marble floor is from Oman, while the glass lamps are inspired by the crystal chandeliers typically found in opera houses and palaces. Furthermore, one can find everything that gives a contemporary fashion store that extra bit of style: a broad staircase that opens up the space visually, seating areas, and a café bar. PoeSie 1895 quite deliberately exudes cosmopolitan flair. “For me, fashion is a window and doorway to new worlds”, Angelika Schauer, the managing director, explains. “It’s a medium for dreams, for compositions. Fashion is poetic in every aspect.”

Inseparable - Fashion and Trachten

The name Schauer is an integral part of Bad Ischl. For Angelika Schauer, fashion and Trachten are equally inseparable. The family currently runs five stores within a small radius, two which are next to each other (Kreuzplatz 22 and 23) and include a tailor shop. The tailor shop was founded by Angelika Schauer’s great grandfather in 315 style in progress

1895 as a bespoke studio to supply fashion and Trachten for the summer visitors who came to Bad Ischl as part of the entourage of Emperor Franz Josef and his famous wife, Sissi. Today, the store located at Kreuzplatz 22 serves people who tailor Trachten items themselves and those who are eager to purchase items from the in-house Trachtenmacher label. The shop next door stocks other goods such as the empress dirndl in the town’s colours or the emperor kilt, as well as Trachten fashion by Wenger, Grasegger, and Steinbock.

Opposite the famous Zauner bakery, in the heart of Bad Ischl, the Schauer family has its store for premium Trachten fashion by the likes of Tostmann, Sportalm, Luis Trenker, and Elisa Cavaletti.

The empire also includes a shop for fashion fabrics and sewing supplies. Last but not least, there is PoeSie 1895, which is most certainly the largest jewel in the Schauer family’s fashion crown.

Lively and Popular

The 600 square metre store showcases sporty to elegant

women’s fashion, which is highly wearable and suitable for everyday use. The brand portfolio includes Marc O’Polo, Drykorn, Marc Cain, Boss Orange, and Marc Aurel, as well as Trachten fashion by Grasegger, Steinbock, and Luis Trenker. “We already had a small area for women’s

PoeSie 1895 Auböckplatz 1, 4820 Bad Ischl/Austria www.schauer-moden.at Opening: March 2014 Owner: Angelika Schauer Employees: 7 Sales area: 600sqm Brands for women: Arido, Bauer, Boss Orange, Cambio, Drykorn, Gerry Weber, Giesswein, Luis Trenker, Marc O’Polo, Marc Cain, Marc Aurel, Oui, Tostmann, Trachtenmacher, Wenger, Wallmann, and others Brands for men: Auzinger, Fynch Hatton, Giesswein, Grasegger, Luis Trenker, Steinbock, and others Accessories brands: Cashmere Blue, Cute Stuff, Erfurt, I love my moment, LuiseSteiner, Liu Jo, Mala Alisha, Passigatti, Qudo, Shirin Sehan, Striessnig, Vanzetti

fashion when I joined the family business”, says Angelika Schauer, who was promoted to managing director in 2006. “I identified the demand and potential.”

The store’s location (Auböckplatz 1) is, according to Angelika Schauer, one of the most beautiful places in Bad Ischl.

It is directly opposite the old drinking hall, which is a relic of the old spa tradition, and close to the imperial central post office and the parish church. PoeSie 1895 stands out as a modern contrast. “Since its opening last year, PoeSie 1895 has become very lively and popular. It is now an exceptional meeting place for people who value quality and love beautiful things”, Angelika Schauer rejoices. “Our concept was spot on.”

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“We don’t merely strive to offer Bad Ischl something new and enchanting, but also want to attract customers who are regulars in the boutiques of the world’s fashion capitals.” - Angelika Schauer, managing director of PoeSie 1895.

Harmonious colour scheme and a coherent atmosphere - PoeSie 1895 is a place for browsing and relaxing.

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1 | Number seven – L’Eclaireur has re-invented itself yet again.

2 | Design items from Vicenzo de Cotiis’ Progetto Domestico collection.

3 | The picturesque little house on the premises of the Marché aux Puces.

4 | Archive pieces from the earlier collections of the other L’Eclaireur stores.

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Mainstream? Never! L’Eclaireur/ Saint-Ouen Martine and Armand Hadida remain true to their unconventional roots in their seventh L’Eclaireur store in Saint-Ouen.

The new branch is a tribute to excellent design and a contemporary archive of collections from the years 1980 to 2000.

Text: Quynh Tran. Photos: L’Eclaireur

Martine and Armand Hadida have always turned their backs on conventional trends to tread more unusual paths. They are the driving force behind the legendary L’Eclaireur shops and are perceived as being major contributors to what we call concept stores today.

Part of Parisian Fashion History

Since opening their first store in the 1980s, which was merely a 28 square metre room equipped

by Armand Hadida himself with wooden furniture and coconut carpets, the couple has played a major part in Paris’ fashion history. The Hadidas introduced brands such as Prada and Dolce & Gabbana to France, as well as discovering other then unknown designers such as Ann Demeulemeester, Dries van Noten, Martin Margiela, Junya Watanabe, Rei Kawakabu, and most recently Carol Christian Poell. They even promoted the newcomers at their own financial risk. The Hadidas have always complemented their fashion concept with spectacular architecture.

Designers and artists including Philippe Starck, Piero Fornasetti, and Arne Quinze produced some great pioneering work in store design for them.

There are now seven L'Eclaireur stores in and around Paris. Every single one of them has its own signature with a very unique selection of fashion brands and

design items. The latest store is also anything but ordinary. One probably wouldn’t expect a highend boutique in a North Parisian suburb that was once ravaged by unrest caused by underprivileged citizens. However, the Hadidas have decided to move into exactly that area. The latest store is located in Saint Ouen, on Marché aux Puces, one of the city’s most famous flea markets, to be precise.

This is also where the French furniture manufacturer Habitat, which was taken over by the local CAFOM Group in 2011, opened Le Village Vintage to celebrate its 50th anniversary.

The idea for this 25,000 square metre area came from Hervé Giaoui, the director of Habitat. The individual concept of Le Village Vintage is aimed at showing design and fashion L’Eclaireur Saint-Ouen 77 Rue des Roisiers, Puces de Saint-Ouen, 93400 Saint Ouen/France Owners: Martine and Armand Hadida Sales area: 450 sqm Brands: Ann Demeulemeester, Balenciaga, Céline, Dries van Noten, Marni Martin Margiela, Oscar de la Renta - all vintage Lifestyle brands: American Flyer (Vintage), Aristide Najean, Cipria de Fernando (Vintage), General Trains (Vintage), Hugh Findletar, Humberto Campana (Vintage), Lindsey Adelman, Vicenzo de Cotiis, Von Pelt

conscious Parisians what a joyful experience analogue shopping can be. Alongside Habitat 1964 (which offers original vintage Habitat items), Gallery Gam, Mademoiselle Steinitz, and Tartes Kugler’s Café la Buvette, the new L’Eclaireur shop blends in perfectly.

Refuge Outside the Capital

To the North of the French capital, in a picturesque, vine-covered house, the interior of which is unusually simple for an L’Eclaireur store, the Hadidas now celebrate their love for design, but only at the weekends when the flea market is open too. They stock exclusive furniture, design items, unique pieces, and limited editions.

The latter will be shown under the L’Eclaireur label at leading art fairs such as Art Basel Miami and Art Paris. Progetto Domestico, a limited edition of unique sculptural furniture designed by Vicenzo de Cotiis, was the first of this kind in 2014.

Vicenzo de Cotiis’ uniqueness was the perfect embodiment of L’Eclaireur’s spirit and he will also be responsible for the first US branch of L’Eclaireur, which will open in Los Angeles in the course of 2015. The concept also allows space for fashion.

Hidden between all the design items, one can find a contemporary fashion archive with pieces designed by the likes of Ann Demeulemeester, Dries

Armand Hadida, the managing director of the L’Eclaireur stores.

van Noten, Marni, Oscar de la Renta, Céline, Martin Margiela, and Balenciaga. The store does not stock current fashion, but iconic pieces from the years 1980 to 2000.

“It’s beautiful because it’s so different”, Armand Hadida says.

He wants the store to be a new experience for his customers, a chamber of wonders that invites customers to explore. Simply because this is what L’Eclaireur stores have always been about…

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Closely Related Almliebe/Munich The three individuals behind the rustic wooden counter are closely related in many ways: as business partners, by their family roots, and by their shares passion for presenting traditional clothing (“Trachten”) in a modern way. Following the first Almliebe store in the Lower Bavarian town of Pocking and the success of the eponymous online store, Almliebe opened a Munich branch in March. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Almliebe

A Trachten store in Munich is logical, but certainly not uncommon. This means the standards for those who want to stand out are even higher than usual.

The Almliebe team decided on a clear, reduced, and stylish approach. The store owned by Sonja, Stefanie, and Claus Ragaller combines traditional, classic dirndl dresses and lederhosen with eye-catchers such as hooded knitted jackets by the Bad Tölzbased brand Liebling. “We’ve always been on the lookout for labels that interpret Trachten fashion in a modern way, which results in traditional jackets that can be combined with jeans for every occasion”, Sonja Ragaller explains. The business model of the three siblings is based on extraordinary head-to-toe Trachten looks that are never too fashionable, yet always suitable for everyday use. They kick-started their project as a store-in-store concept in the family business Modehaus Ragaller in Pocking and subsequently launched an independent online shop in

Almliebe Ickstattstrasse 22, 80469 Munich/Germany www.almliebe.com Opening: March 2015 Owners: Sonja, Stefanie, and Claus Ragaller Store manager: Sonja Ragaller Employees: 3 Sales area: 90sqm Brands: 2964 Garmisch, Allwerk, Almsach, Alpenflüstern, Alpenterieur Bernhard Rieger, Alpenwahn, Anno Domini Design, ARK, Arido, Astrifa, Bauer, Basset, Bergvolk, Berwin & Wolff, Dirndl & Bua, Elmau, Faustmann, Franz Münchinger, FYFY, Giesswein, Gottseidank, Grace, Grasegger, Habsburg, Hammerschmid, Himmelgrün, Julia Trentini, Kaiseralm, Kaiser Franz Josef, Krüger, Lady Edelweiß, Liebling, Lodenfrey, Lola Paltinger, Luise Steiner, Luis Trenker, Lumisha, Lusana, Maddox, Maloja, Marjo, Mister Edelweiß, Mothwurf, My Herzallerliebst, Poldi, Pure, Sabrina Prexl, Schneiders, Sportalm, St. Moritz, St. Peter Trachten, Striessnig, Tramontana, Wallmann, Wiesnkönig, Wilderer, Zaubermasche

2012. Modern Trachten fashion, traditional styles, and Alpine lifestyle is the corporate motto, which is primarily implemented with regionally rooted brands such as Luis Trenker, Meindl, 2964 Garmisch, and St. Moritz.

The fashion highlights include magnificent dirndl dresses by Fräulein Trentini, shoes by Dirndl & Bua, and sweat-fabric lederhosen by Krüger Madl.

Classic lederhosen for men give shirts by Gottseidank a special twist that is equally suitable for the office and the beer garden.

Trachten Meets Multi-Channel

Sonja Ragaller believes that flexibility is the key to success.

The three points of sale do not merely pursue the multi-channel principle. Customers, who cannot find the desired item in the store, can browse through the extensive range of the online shop on an iPad supplied by Almliebe. One can then ask for the chosen goods to be delivered to one’s home address, or have it brought to the stores in Munich

Rustic wood meets steel and metal - Almliebe puts Trachten fashion into an industrial design setting.

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or Pocking, where one can also benefit from the expertise of the sales assistants. The 90 square metre store offers sufficient space for events and all other ideas that complement the Almliebe concept. For the interior design, the Almliebe team hired Albert Dijkman’s young agency Fraai Berlin, which based the furnishing concept on high-end, solid real-wood furniture that can be bought on location or on order. The Ragaller siblings have managed to turn this bright and friendly space in Munich’s somewhat remote Ickstattstrasse into a completely coherent concept store for Trachten fashion.

More importantly, it appeals to both Trachten enthusiasts and newcomers.

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Bike Me Up. Rose Biketown/Munich Rose Biketown/Munich. They may not have reinvented the wheel, but definitely how to market it. Cycling is not just about being part of a community, but also about innovation. The digital store concept developed by Rose Biketown in Munich puts this theory into practice, and subsequently won HDE’s “Store of the Year Award 2015”. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Rose Biketown

Multi-channel marketing and the integration of digital technology is not new to the stationary retail industry. Many stores have also already embraced the idea of on-site customisation. However, the combination of both in a highly attractive interactive environment that attracts curious customers, who aren’t even interested in buying a bicycle, can only be described as pure genius. Even if you make it past the iconically laid out bikes, which are placed on illuminated pedestals worthy of a fancy art gallery, you will definitely stop at one of the adjacently attached tablets. And as is always the case, just when you think you’ve silenced your inner child and taken your hands off said tablet, a salesperson appears to ask the right question: “It’s fun, isn’t it?”

Digital Valhalla

Rose Biketown is all about bicycles, but only a fraction of the available products are actually on display. The real goldmine of the manufacturer, who produces

exclusively in Germany, is the digital bicycle configuration tool that customers can use on-site.

This enables customers to create bicycles in line with their specific needs, requirements, and budget.

Other store visitors can follow the configuration process on a giant screen, which is embedded in an 8x3 metre LED wall integrated into the store’s back wall. Naturally, one can also start configuring one’s bicycle at home and finish the process in the store with the assistance of the experts on location. After the bike has been ordered, it can either be delivered to the doorstep or to the store itself. The store also offers “real” bicycles and competent sales staff for those who prefer to test the various models, frames, saddles, and tires. Let’s not forget that analogue shopping can also be enjoyable.

Cycling for Digital Natives

To implement this particular Biketown, which is the second of its kind alongside the flagship store at the corporate

headquarters in Bocholt, the family business Rose Bike hired the Blocher Blocher Partner design studio. The renowned design specialists turned the 250 square metre store in Munich’s new Mona shopping centre into a futuristic store that can be described as a paradise for the so-called digital natives. It is also an important benchmark for the stationary retailers in general, especially as the store’s online/offline crossover concept compensates for the weaknesses of the retail and e-commerce industries

almost perfectly. It offers unrivalled flexibility and maximum choice/availability despite a small sales area on the one hand, as well as personal advice and a real shopping experience with haptic impressions on the other.

The German Trade Association (“HDE”) was so impressed that it decided to hand Rose Bike the “Store of the Year 2015” award in the “Out of Line” category.

Let’s return to that vital question asked by the salesperson earlier: “It’s fun, isn’t it?” There can only be one answer: “YES!”

Rose Biketown Mona, Pelkovenstrasse 143-147, 80992 Munich/Germany www.rosebikes.de Opening: October 2014 Owner: Rose Versand GmbH Employees: 4 Sales area: 250sqm Textile brands: Adidas, Alpenheat, Alpinestars, Basil, Craft, Falke, Gore Bike Wear, Hey Sport, Jack Wolfskin, Löffler, Maloja, Odlo, Roeckl, Schöffel, Vaude, and others

Rose Biketown is a mall store in Munich’s new Mona shopping centre. It’s futuristic store design is literally also its shop window.

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Restored, but deliberately rough around the edges: Un autre Voodoo found its home in a former apartment in the Neukรถlln district.

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The Magic of Uniqueness.

Un autre Voodoo/Berlin.

Un autre Voodoo/Berlin. After 15 editions of the Voodoo Market in Berlin, Oryanne and Raphael Dufour have now laid down permanent roots for their slow-shopping concept. Their store in Neukölln now stocks art, jewellery, accessories, and fashion from international designers based in Berlin. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Un autre Voodoo

It all began in the summer of 2010, when French born Oryanne Dufour organised the Voodoo Market in Berlin for the first time. The circle of designers and friends who have supported the event has grown steadily over the years. The Voodoo Market is currently held every three months. After the success of the pre-Christmas pop-up store, Oryanne Dufour and her husband Raphael decided to open their own store in the heart of Neukölln.

They took over and lovingly renovated a former antique junk shop, which was probably once a three room ground floor apartment, located only a stone’s throw from Weserstrasse and the Rütli school.

“We didn’t want to simply name the shop Voodoo Shop, so we took inspiration from our two year old daughter’s habit of adding the French ‘un autre’ to everything, which roughly translated means ‘another one‘.

We think it’s really cute even if it is not so easy for our nonFrench speaking customers to pronounce, but it is less obvious than just saying Voodoo Shop

instead of Voodoo Market”, says Oryanne Dufour.

25 Designers on Display

Each of the individually hand-crafted natural pine display cases, which feature multi-level presentation platforms in the centre, displays pieces from one of the twenty five designers.

The collections are revamped for each new season. Lamps, books, belts, bags, jewellery, women’s, men’s, and children’s fashion, shoes, and an extensive collection Un autre Voodoo Tellstrasse 7 Berlin/Germany www.unautrevoodoo.com Brands: Aneye Anear, Alec Bizby,, Cee Cee, Elicamente, Greta Schwester, Haute Kuki & Die Markise, Happarel bicycles, Hänska, Antoniya Ivanova, Karakulowa, Kale Collective, LeAgua, Luir, Malgorzata Salamon, Tabea Mathern, Marion Mazo, MIO, Monkind, Mies Nobis, NU Slippers, Pastperfekt, Patsypillylindaline, Pau Esteve, Raumata, Rollbuch, The Bronze Medal, Uberdoza, Jaan Ugrinsky, Woman.Made

of art pieces, made their debut in March. “We wanted to offer our customers a unique ‘Slow shopping’ concept. Stress-free shopping in a friendly atmosphere, we love to tell the story of the how products are made and by whom. Locally made products, sustainable, handmade, unique and distinctive design, that is our requirement”, explains Dufour.

“We decided to open a shop about a year ago when we realised how difficult it is for designers to find an outlet to sell their products, and also because of the feedback from many visitors to our markets who couldn’t find the kind of products offered by our designers anywhere else“, reveals Dufour, a Berlin resident for over seven years. Before the move to Berlin she directed an art gallery in Paris, while her husband worked in the textiles trade. The Doufours had already gained many years of experience in the gastronomy and events sectors before coming to Berlin.

The shop is publicised through social media such as Facebook, tumblr and Instragram, and also through a newsletter. The 16th Voodoo Market was held at the

French nationals Oryanne and Raphael Dufour have made a permanent home for their Slow shopping concept in Berlin.

RAW hall Friedrichshain. The shop hasn’t replaced the markets - further events are being planned.

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174 IN STORE

Positive Course Correction.

Dings/Zurich In Switzerland, one must use the term “course correction” with caution. After all, the actions of the Swiss National Bank at the beginning of the year are still on the minds of many. When HP Endras corrects his course, it normally has to do with crystal clear calculation rather than money. Text: Dörte Welti. Photos: No way

“What used to be courageous, is now perceived as cocky”, HP Endras muses while swiftly sketching his corporate structure on a piece of paper. He places a large circle representing the inventory in the middle.

The businessman has no less than 68 brands in his portfolio.

Five arms representing his stores lead away from the centre circle.

“Dings” was born on a whim in 1993 and was initially located in the fairly disreputable Cheib district, which is where the local drug scene spent their days and nights waking or sleeping. The base for the store was “No Way”, a skateboard shop that was way ahead of its time. HP Endras had founded it together with his skateboarding buddy Roland Brümmer. The No Way shop soon turned into a wholesale and import company. Gradually he opened a “Sterling” store in Biel and Chur, thereby adding women’s fashion to his repertoire.

This step was followed up by a menswear store named “On y va” in Zurich and, finally, by “Monsieur Dubois”, a store focused solely on footwear. The individual store concepts were developed more or less by chance. Endras has a philosophy: “Determine what the customer wants and then develop a mid-term strategy accordingly.” The company is thriving and is in a perfect position to respond to customer needs swiftly. If a brand is no longer in stock in one location, it is quickly transferred from a 315 style in progress

location with less demand. That can happen really quickly, by the way. “I implement projects that are on my mind in a timely manner, be they new store ideas or reactions to customer wishes.”

Today’s Dynamic Customers

However, the times are changing and Endras has started pondering the future: “Today, we move too fast at times; waiting is a matter of experience.” In the case of the “Monsieur Dubois” shoe store he decided against waiting for the decreasing customer frequency in Zurich’s Niederdorf district to pick up or the too high rental fees to drop again.

“You must have the courage to close shop. How long should I hold onto a concept when the shopping habits are changing?”, the entrepreneur asks himself and turns his focus to expanding the online segment of the business, which started in November 2013. The online operations are currently experiencing disproportional growth and Endras Dings Zollstrasse 12, 8005 Zurich/Switzerland www.onyva.ch/filialen/dings/ Opening: November 1993 Owner: HP Endras Employees: 2 Sales area: 80sqm Brands: Armor Lux, Baggy Port, Chloe Stora, Ganni, Gardenia, La Garconne, Leon & Harper, People Tree, Pertini, Second Female, Suncoo, and others

No Way is the right way – HP Endras (left) and Roland Brümmer in their skater days.

believes that this can be partially attributed to mass suppliers such as Zalando: “They paved the way and opened all the doors”. The expectations are modest; HP Endras is currently focusing on preserving stock rather than growth.

The shoe brands originally stocked by “Monsieur Dubois” will now be offered to regulars in the four clothing stores. “Dings” has now been in the same place for 23 years, especially as the former no-go area has developed into Zurich’s hippest district.

Good things come to those who wait, at least in this case. However, one thing gives the owner a massive headache: “It has become impossible to know your customers. The customer of today works on different levels and is dynamic. The product range is actually based on a customer

type that is completely wrong.”

Endras will definitely find out what the correct customer type is and react accordingly. He is flexible, after all. The first step is the aforementioned course correction, which includes a more cost-conscious creative process and the avoidance of high rental fees. “We are more accountants than passionate buyers”, he says with a hint of sadness.

Incidentally, Endras also openly expresses his admiration for Karl-Heinz Müller, the driving force behind “Bread & Butter”.

“Actually, he has the right idea.

We need highly personal trade shows that create highly personal contacts. It would be a stroke of genius to open the trade show to the public. Today’s customer is no longer the retailer, but the end customer.”

IN STORE 175

Stability - Dings has been in the same place since 1993, but the product range has always been adapted to the ever-changing customer base.

Simplicity - Sterling Biel’s store concept is all about the products, while the interior is purely practical.

Hipster - Up-cycled furniture characterises the “On y va” menswear store in Zurich.

Elegancy - The female customers of Sterling Chur are used to a hint of exclusivity.

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176 editor'S Letter /// about us

Zalando and the Analogue World

T

he takeover of Bread & Butter

by Zalando, the polarising online giant, came as a huge surprise for most people and raised a myriad of questions. For example, was KarlHeinz Müller right after all when he announced his intention to open the Bread & Butter trade show for consumers in 2013? I’d say the answer is both yes and no!

Yes, because Müller recognised that the online world - social media platforms in particular – has completely changed the nature of communication.

This development has obviously also affected the way that (fashion) brands communicate with their consumers. Today, everything is faster, more direct, and more interactive. These revolutionised communication channels obviously also require some form of physical manifestation.

No, because the aforementioned cannot be combined with the mechanisms of a trade show. At the time, this combination would have led to immense logistical challenges and massive additional costs.

His plan was to square the circle, which is a nut that many have failed to crack in the past.

However, Zalando has no need whatsoever to deal with the demands of a fashion trade show. The online giant, that kick-started a subtle image turnaround with its exceptionally intelligent, international Topshop TV campaign, has no wish to stage a classic trade show anyway. The reasoning behind the takeover has recently been the topic of many heated debates and leaves a lot of room for exciting speculations. Bear with me, if you will.

What did Zalando actually buy?

Zalando has acquired a globally protected and undeniably strong brand. The deal also includes the (long-term) lease for an equally unique event location, namely Tempelhof. In addition, Zalando has gained access to extensive know how in terms of the organisation and execution of major events.

But why did they seal the deal?

Zalando does not believe that its future lies in being a mere online retailer. Market prowess, brand recognition, and financial firepower afford Zalando the possibility to pursue a completely different vision. The role model is Google. In retrospect, the positioning of the Californian giant as the most important search engine was merely the first rocket stage. Zalando has an unimaginable wealth of data and enormous expertise in terms of logistics. This allows for much more than simply sending shoes, dresses, and bags all over Europe and, potentially, all across the globe in the medium term. Zalando strives to become a kind of universal source for fashion and lifestyle.

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Can this be achieved with a fashion party at Tempelhof?

It’s about something else entirely. It’s about be­ coming “tangible” in the literal sense of the word and leaving the systemic anonymity of the sole online presence behind. The online world needs the offline world, especially in terms of emotions, feel, and even distinction. Even the most sophisticated logarithm cannot replace the quality that communication from person to person provides and cannot make emotions truly perceptible. However, this is exactly what is crucial for establishing a longterm relationship with customers. A huge lifestyle festival at Tempelhof, which will undoubtedly be a pop culture spectacle and place the core topic fashion in exactly that context, does not only guarantee significant media attention, but is also a first step towards Zalando transforming itself into a real and ultimately tangible brand. It doesn’t want a platform for (countless) brands, but a brand in its own right. Zalando equals fashion. THAT is the ultimate goal!

So what will the future hold in store?

Zalando is, without a doubt, intensively deliberating how it can systematically increase its physical presence and perceptibility as a brand. The boring variant would be own stationary sales floors. A company like Zalando would unquestionably implement such a strategy with the utmost professionalism. Such a move wouldn’t create much of a buzz. It would, however, be massively expensive, especially when the aim is to establish a comprehensive network.

Perhaps there is a completely different, more modern solution. Would it be conceivable that Zalando could establish partnerships with excellent, regionally established stationary retailers? I mean real partnerships, not assimilating takeovers. This would be an opportunity to combine the best of both worlds. Logistics, inventory risks, backlogs, etcetera - Zalando could more than just support partner stores regarding all the aforementioned issues. Let’s not forget Zalando’s purchasing power and the online/offline switch…

In return, Zalando would gain access to credible, local human-to-human competence, as well as “showrooms” and service centres in every major city. Furthermore, it would gain access to a model that can be implemented easily and quickly in other markets. It doesn’t really matter whether Cara Delevingne can pronounce the city names or not.

Maybe such a move would even solve the systemic problem of the online (fashion) retail industry: the return rate. It would afford the possibility of returning unwanted goods directly at a partner on location. At the same time, one could finally start charging for returns by mail.

Yours, Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at

Publisher, editorial office, advertising department and owner UCM-Verlag B2B Media GmbH & Co KG Salzweg 17, 5081 Salzburg-Anif Austria T 0043.6246.89 79 99 F 0043.6246.89 79 89 office@ucm-verlag.at www.ucm-verlag.at Management Stephan Huber Nicolaus Zott

Editors-in-chief Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Martina Müllner martina.muellner@ucm-verlag.at Art direction/production Elisabeth Prock-Huber elisabeth@ucm-verlag.at Contributing writers Isabel Faiss Silke Bender Petrina Engelke Thesy Kness-Bastaroli Ina Köhler Kay Alexander Plonka Oliver Rauh Nicoletta Schaper Quynh Tran Dörte Welti Katharina Wohlfahrt Photographers Norbert Baeres Oliver Rauh Peter Rigaud Illustrators Claudia Meitert Image editor Anouk Schönemann anouk.schoenemann@ucm-verlag.at Advertising director Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Publisher’s assistant, distribution Sigrid Staber sigrid.staber@ucm-verlag.at Christina Hörbiger christina.hoerbiger@ucm-verlag.at English translations Manfred Thurner Printing sandlerprint&packaging 3671 Marbach, Austria Printing coordinator Manfred Reitenbach

Next issue October 2015

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